The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996
DECEMBER 2021
XMAS SPECIAL! Elektrownia gift guide
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INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723
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DECEMBER 2021 Features:
Deck The Walls Photos, prints and posters to lift your living space – p. 26 Chrismtas Guide Elves, lights, gifts and Old Town! – p. 22
Skyfall White knuckle views from the 46th floor – p. 6 It’s Brewtiful! Browar Warszawski – p. 32
Christmas Party
AND NEW YEAR’S EVE with Panska85! FOR RESERVATION: +48 512 671 756 / +22 253 30 30 rezerwacje@panska85.com.pl
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Contents December 2021
Reviews: EAT!
Kooperatywa Dobrze – p. 31 Browar Warszawski – p. 32 BBQ Ramen-ya – p. 35 Pyzy, Flaki Gorące Podwale – p. 36 Europejski Grill – p. 38 Karma – p. 40
DRINK!
Sacred Mill Brew Bar – p. 55
PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF ELEKTROWNIA POWISLE
Reginabar – p. 56 Hottest launches of 2021! – p. 58
DISCOVER Ania Kuczyńska – p. 65
Wilhelm Sasnal: Such a Landscape – p. 66
REMEMBER HOW WE ALL THOUGHT 2021 would be a walk in the park? Well, I guess the less said about that the better. Still, it could have been worse, and amid all the trials and general tumult, it can be presented as fact that Warsaw has emerged a far stronger city. At least on the face of it, life rebounded with enthusiastic vigor. Proof, if it was needed, has come in the form of a food and drink sector that has refused to be cowed – should you doubt us, then we’ve served you with a reminder of the year’s biggest openings in the nightlife sector. But we’ve done more than simply loiter around our favorite bars, and this issue is the result – waiting for you inside, peel the pages for the lowdown on Warsaw’s lights, check our seasonal tour of Old Town, or take inspiration from our gift guide to rescue your Christmas. As ever, hope you enjoy it and have a fantastic New Year. Till we meet again!
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
Hala Gwardii – p. 67
Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com
Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com
Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com
12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000
VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl All information ©2021 Warsaw Insider.
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In brief
PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
P
STREET ART
On The Ball Mokotów remembers Poland’s greatest ever football coach…
ainted onto the side of the building inside which he once lived, a giant mural honoring Kazimierz Górski was unveiled in November on Madalińskiego 49/51. A legendary figure among Polish football fans, it was under Górski’s charge that the national side enjoyed its heyday. Assuming stewardship of the team in 1970, Górski masterminded Poland’s famous draw at Wembley, a result that denied England, the 1966 World Cup winners, a place at the 1974 World Cup. Having already scooped a gold medal at the 1972 Olympics, Górski’s team went on to stun the planet at the ’74 World Cup tournament with their swashbuckling brand of football. Having appeared at the finals just once before in 1938, Poland’s unfancied team recorded epic wins over Argentina and Italy in the group stages, whilst also handing out a 7-0 spanking to a shellshocked Haiti. Pitted against the hosts in the semi-final, the Poles fell narrowly short against West Germany in a game forever remembered as ‘the water battle of Frankfurt’. Finishing the tournament on a high after beating Brazil in the third-place playoff, the team – and Górski – returned to a heroes welcome. Posthumously awarded the Grand Cross of Polonia Restituta and FIFA’s Order of Merit, Górski died in 2006 at the age of 85. Depicting him in his trademark tracksuit, the mural was realized after 21-days of work. Spanning an area of 240 sq/m, and created using 40 liters of paints and 1,060 ceramic elements, the XL artwork also features one of the trainer’s most famous quotes: “the ball is round and there are two goals”.
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In brief ARCHITECTURE
Architecture Watch List! Past, present, future: three developments awe Warsaw...
New Look For Rising Museum Already credited with revolutionizing the Polish museum experience, the Warsaw Rising Museum is set for a grand overhaul after a contract was signed with city authorities to considerably modernize and expand it. Based on an architectural concept by Nizio Design International (who were behind the creation of the original permanent exhibition), the plans foresee a new entrance area, educational facilities, restaurant and observation deck. Wood You Believe It! One of the oldest surviving wooden buildings in Warsaw has been handed a stunning makeover following a painstaking renovation overseen by the city’s conservator. Found on Środkowa 9, the so-called Drewniak is thought to date to as far back as 1879, and once functioned as a home for street children. After years of neglect, it’s now back to its best, with new features including a modern basement level dug under the main structure. Picking up the torch of history, the building is set to become a community center for local kids.
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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL (2)
Hoppy Days There’s more to Warsaw’s business district than skyscrapers alone. Found on Chmielna 132/134, The Hop had started to look like a sad and jarring leftover from the capital’s early forays into capitalism – now, though, it’s undergone a bold metamorphosis courtesy of the Łoskiewicz.Studio. Lending it a new lease of life, applause has been quick in coming, not least from fans of Warsaw’s wild 90s. With so many remnants of this time being bulldozed, the revival of The Hop has been hailed as a breakthrough project with the potential to inspire others to add new value to existing office investments rather than simply knocking them down.
In brief
CITY
Don’t Look Down…
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surefire candidate to become one of Warsaw’s strangest attractions – and definitely it’s highest – the much-hyped Skyfall opened its doors in November for a media preview. Though organizers remain tight-lipped as to when it’ll launch publicly, one thing is already certain – it’ll definitely be worth the wait.
Set on the 46th floor of the Unit skyscraper in the heart of Warsaw’s new business district, the heart of the Skyfall facility is a quadruple glass-floored cabin clasped to the side of the building. Designed to tilt to a 15 degree angle, visitors can look forward to white-knuckle views of Warsaw whilst accompanied
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to a soundtrack of pre-recorded screams – yes, really! Billed as the only attraction of its kind in Europe, inspiration was taken from the glass-floored Skydeck in Chicago’s Willis Tower as well as the so-called ‘swinging tilt’ in the 360 tower found in the same city. Featuring also a swanky bar area and a glitzy events space with floor-to-ceiling windows and a design courtesy of the acclaimed Mac Stopa, the top level also has two terraces with retractable ceilings. Promising a quite staggering experience, this breathtaking project deserves to shoot to the top of any Warsaw-related bucket list. Jeroen van der Toolen of Ghelamco, the building’s developer, said: “We strive to make the skyscrapers
we build open to the inhabitants of Warsaw. Warsaw Spire has Europejski Square, and the Warsaw HUB boasts a unique link that directly connects it to the metro. We wanted Warsaw UNIT to also offer its own highlight.” “During the popular Museum Night, we invited the people of Warsaw to our office – located on the 41st floor of Warsaw Spire – and we were visited by thousands of people. This inspired the idea for Skyfall Warsaw; a place which would guarantee spectacular views and extreme experiences.” Currently available only for private hire, the coming weeks should see a decision reached as to how to present the finished article to the public – in other words, watch this space!
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER
An inside look at a European first!
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Architecture Walk: Elektrownia Powiśle
During The War…
Sustaining heavy damage in both 1939 and 1944, Elektrownia’s steel skeleton never buckled. Nonetheless, evidence of the war abounds – look closely at the supporting beams and you’ll find several dents and bruises caused by bombs and bullets.
WALK THIS WAY!
As Warsaw reengages with its industrial heritage, the Insider joins Architecture & Design Manager Michael Gifford for a customized architectural walk around Elektrownia Powiśle… A Second Life
“The design team is still having great fun brainstorming what to do with the things we have in storage, and in this respect it’s been brilliant working with Arkadiusz Chamera,” says Gifford. “Often I’ll sketch out something silly and he’ll turn it into a masterpiece. He’s a genius!” In tangible terms, that’s meant a slew of valves, balustrades and ceramic insulators handed a new lease of life as tables, benches, and other assorted fixtures and fittings.
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Blue Is The Color
The cute little blue box above the main entrance once served as the director’s cubbyhole, a perch from which he could observe the comings and goings down below. “The conservator’s report showed five different layers of paint used on it, so we were given the option of choosing any of these five shades,” says Gifford. “Because the exterior featured other blue elements, APA Wojciechowski’s architects chose to keep it consistent.”
On The Table
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Another Brick In The Wall
“We’ve kept much of the original brickwork untouched, while other portions required a new face,” says Gifford. “You’ll see several bricks still bearing shrapnel nicks from the war, but in my view the most interesting aspect of all is that you’ll find many sections of brickwork that differ in color – after WWII bricks were a precious commodity, so quite often lower-quality bricks were used during Elektrownia’s rehaul and then painted up to match the originals next to them. Over time this ceramic paint deteriorated, and the result is the subtle patchwork you now see.”
Even the desks and tables have a story. In one office, that means a receptionist’s desk saved from the old times – complete with original dials, it’s pure retro heaven. Just outside the Food Hall, meanwhile, stands an epic looking design constructed from insulators. “I worked on this with Piotr Płoski,” says Gifford, “and if you look close you’ll see where he brushed off peeling paint to reveal a face-like shape.”
Take A Break!
“Even the restrooms here are like miniature museums with their own little stories,” says Gifford. “The inside of each stall is decorated with signage and items recovered from the old power plant, though the ladies get the better deal – you’ll find beautiful electrical drawings from the 1950’s in several of the female bathroom stalls!”
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Architecture Walk: Elektrownia Powiśle Dragon’s Den
Many of Elektrownia’s obscure details are easy to miss, but the great big wedge cut out of its residential section is not one of these. “In Asian architecture a hole is sometimes left in large buildings to allow dragons to fly through them, so my kids call this the Dragon Hole,” says Gifford. “In this case, the reason behind it is a bit more prosaic. We were told by the conservator that whilst we’d be allowed to build a residential block on this spot, we would need to allow passersby on the other side of the street to see the iconic blue box above the boiler building through the opening.”
For Control Freaks
Look To The Light
“Piotr Płoski is an amazing person,” says Gifford, “and he’s crazy about Saabs and retro furniture from the 50s and 60s. He also did the most interesting lighting here, and the chandelier in the main building is a prime example. With this, he used water cut steel tubes to expose the bulbs. I submitted a project for this as well, but I think Piotr’s turned out brilliantly.”
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
On the orders of the city’s conservator, Elektrownia were obliged to save 200 items from the original power plant – White Star, however, decided to save everything that might hold value, which in the end amounted to around 5,000 objects. Approximately a third of these have since returned from storage, and of these none are as visually enticing as the former electric control panels. By the Food Hall, that means a box that was once capable of shutting off the power to both the Palace of Culture and Warszawa Gdańska station. Elsewhere, amid the enigmatic switches and levers, look out for original paper labels that have survived all this time.
Metal Magic
The skills of Arkadiusz Chamera have been appreciated by all ages, not least due to his wacky metal sculptures: of the oddities, look out for a kangaroo, a boy hiding some flowers behind his back, a woman receiving a manicure, a guitarist and a chap getting a beard trim. “The Beauty Hall,” says Gifford, “has provided a range of themes for Arek’s fun sculptures. The conservators have given us flexibility in how we use the some of the bits and pieces we were asked to save, but I imagine they’re happy that they’ve been turned into real works of art.”
Hall Or Nothing On The Face Of It
“I love structural gymnastics,” says Gifford, “and a great example is this glass front by APA Wojciechowski architects. Notice how little structure is used to support such an immense amount of glass. The glass has been hung on the inter-sections and, in the same way as a tennis racket, has been engineered to bend during moments of stress.” Visit during particularly heavy winds and that’ll mean it flexing by as much as 35 centimeters!
There can be no argument, Elektrownia’s most impressive feature is its cavernous main hall. “For me,” says Gifford, “it feels almost like a beautiful Romanesque cathedral.” Criss-crossed with metal elements and vertiginous catwalks at the top, the conservator’s instructions required only one section of the walkways be kept. “But the owner decided to keep more,” adds Gifford, “and I think the catwalks give a real flavor of what it must have been like for the people that worked here.”
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Christmas in the City: Royal Route
LEADING LIGHTS
For Warsaw’s favorite festive walk, look no further than the Royal Route…
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arsaw’s Christmas countdown will become all the more real on December 4th, the date on which the switch stands to be flicked on the city’s lights. Celebrated as one of Europe’s largest seasonal light shows, approximately 4.5 million energy efficient LED bulbs will sparkle through the city to form a truly sensational sight. Lining 20 kilometers of roadway, the extravaganza will feature 1,300 decorative elements that will include light curtains, overhangs, icicles and free-standing decorations. As absolutely always, the natural focal point of it all will be the Christmas tree on Pl. Zamkowy, though this 27-meter beauty will also be complimented by illuminations running all the way from the Royal Castle down to Wilanów Palace. Following what many
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call the Royal Route, highlights to look for along this stretch will include an illuminated ‘balloon seller’ and a glimmering ‘organ grinder’. On top of that, city authorities have also promised chess pieces on Pl. Twardowski, a carousel on Pl. Hoovera as well as a 54-meter long ‘tunnel of light’. Additionally, expect lights to adorn the Old and New Town, Mokotowska, Francuska, Agrykola, the fountain park, Marszałkowska and other major arteries criss-crossing Warsaw. Given that, it’s tempting to ask if the city can afford it – the answer, they say, is yes. “The illuminations consist of energy-saving eco LED lights that consume ten times less electricity than normal bulbs,” say City Hall. “Thanks to this, the cost of feeding this year’s decorations should amount to around zł. 1,000 per day.”
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Christmas in the City: Garden of Light
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THE LIGHT FANTASTIC
PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PREVIOUS SPREAD BY ELIJAH G/UNSPLASH
People are naturally going to gravitate to the center, but for Warsaw’s biggest dazzle look south to the Garden of Light!
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stablished as one of the biggest pulls of Poland’s winter, find the Garden of Light lit by 300,000 pulsating diodes spread over a sea of thematic garden areas outside what’s often dubbed ‘the Polish Versailles’: yep, you’ve got it, Wilanów Palace. According to the organizers, “the elements and details of the light exhibition refer to iconographic sources, the coat of arms of Jan III Sobieski and the symbolism of the palace. The entrance to the garden is guarded by eagles adorning the illuminated pergola, and in the northern garden, you can walk along an avenue planted with vines and see the illuminated gazebo stylized in the 17th century…” Beguiling and bewitching, you walk a stunning trail of shimmering oddities
that culminate with the Garden of Dreams, a surreal world that takes visitors journeying past vivid and fantastical installations whilst classical tunes are piped in the background. Spectacularly hallucinogenic, the effect is not unlike following Alice through the looking glass, and the best could yet be to come – debuting on December 4th, brace yourself for a spectacular kaleidoscope of color in the Rose Garden. Additionally, 3D mappings are scheduled to take place on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays as well as Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Kids under seven get to enjoy it for free, while others will be paying zł. 5-10 (kids, students and seniors) or zł. 20-40 (adults) depending on the day they choose to visit. Buying tickets online comes recommended (ticket.wilanow-palac.pl).
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Christmas in the City: Old Town
TINSELITIS: OLD TOWN ESSENTIALS
PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK (3)
As everyone knows, to squeeze the best out of Christmas in Warsaw a day in the Old Town is practically mandatory…
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Seasonal Sips
Christmas would not be Christmas without burning half your tongue off with a mulled wine bought from one of the hatches and huts around the Old Town’s square. Sticky and sickly sweet, it’s low quality should not deter you from enjoying the definitive taste of winter in Warsaw.
Get Your Fill
Do you dream of a stick thin figure? Well so do we, but that’s not going to stop us beelining for the street-side windows serving flimsy paper plates of gofry (waffles). Often looking more like an eruption of cream, fruit and chocolate, these calorific beauties keep the cold at bay.
Fire Away!
Warsaw has a dearth of hearths, but that at least is redressed by Bar & Books Podwale: aside from beautiful seasonal cocktails, you visit this former carriage house to tread upstairs to warm yourself in front of a crackling fireplace set inside a dimmed room lined with leather-bound books.
We Wish You A Merry Xmas
Kanonia is one of the city’s most charismatic squares, but while you pause to take photos of its archways and tenements take time to also circle the bell in the middle. Once adorning St. John’s Cathedral, it crashed down during the war though was subsequently stitched back together before being placed for posterity in the middle of Kanonia. Go round it three times with your finger on the top and then make a wish – doing so is one of Old Town’s enduring traditions.
Feel Market Forces
The Xmas Market is back! At least, that was the hope as we prepared to hit the print button. Set to launch on the last weekend of November, should things proceed as planned you’ll find several dozen chalet-like cabins sprouting on Podwale street. Among the merch, find standard stocking fillers such as bobble hats, giant lollipops, handcarved ornaments, wooly socks and other folksy tat. To enjoy it to the max, order some roasted horse chestnuts and a mug of hot chocolate.
A Cup Of Xmas Cheer?
We’ve already extolled the virtues of Bar & Books, but there’s also a few other spots that you won’t want to miss for a hug in a mug. Tea drinkers should aim themselves towards the Tolkien-esque Same Fusy Herbaciarnia, while craft beer fiends are catered for at the two Same Krafty pubs that face opposite each other on Nowomiejska. With the street leading out to the Barbikan, it’s
a pleasure to watch the floods of happy humanity pass by with a pint in your hand – and as ever, expect these two warm, rugged-looking pubs to open on Dec 25th.
Insta Moments
Sticking to tradition, the lever will be pulled on Warsaw’s Christmas light on December 4th – for many, that’ll mean heading to Pl. Zamkowy to admire the giant tree that will, as always, take root outside the Royal Castle.
Ice, Ice Baby
Also making a return this year will be Warsaw’s best-loved ice rink. Positioned around the mermaid statue in the Rynek, this time we can look forward to an upgrade on previous years courtesy of a brand new rink that promises to be smoother and more environmentally friendly than that previously used. Touting an area of 600 sq/m, it’s a must visit – little beats swooshing around at night while snowflakes fall on the Old Town’s rooftops.
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Christmas in the City: Family Fun!
FOREVER YOUNG!
Debuting for the first time, Powsin unleashes the Kingdom of Peter Pan…
Ogród Świateł - Piotruś Pan ul. Prawdziwka 2, piotruspan.ogrodswiatel.pl (admission from zł. 1 to zł. 33)
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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL
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s you’ve probably already established, Warsaw will not go short of illuminations this Christmas. But if there was a smidgen of doubt, then allow those to be dispelled by the Peter Pan World of Lights. Tucked waaaay down south in the Powsin Botanical Park, the labyrinthine route takes you through the heart of this gorgeous park and past glimmering attractions that include a ‘magic chair’, ‘treasure chest’ and ‘pirate ship’. Decorated with over half a million LED lights, there’s 30 installations in all, as well as new-fangled multimedia points of interest, laser shows and video mappings. Having thrilled Kraków last year with their Alice in Wonderland light extravaganza, this year organizers hope the capital will be as responsive – we see no reasons why not.
TAKE AN ELFIE!
Put the kids to work this December in a factory with a difference…
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perating until December 22nd, when all employees will disappear to deliver presents, visit the National Stadium to step inside The Great Elf Factory, a kid-focused extravaganza that sees children divided into smallish groups before embarking on a quest to solve ‘The Eighth Legend”. Yep, we’re none the wiser as well. Digging through the nonsense, that essentially means solving puzzles and overcoming educational tasks (in Polish-language, so it seems) while under the guidance of a team of merry elves. Vaguely absurd, but not short on good honest fun, the adventure isn’t short of bouncy attractions and games played out to a cheerful backdrop designed to evoke the spirit of Santa’s grotto.
National Stadium Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, warszawa.wielkafabrykaelfow.pl
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Christmas in the City: Handmade Gifts
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he creation of Bonia, Ola and Kuba, look to Happy Tree Pottery to inject some Polynesian good vibes into your home this winter. Born from their love of Tiki culture, free forms, ceramics and the environment, the trio have fused their passions together to create a range of goods that run from Tiki-style cups, butter crocks, ceramic shells and platters. Drawing from both pop culture and different world cultures, they’re not afraid to play with colors and shades, all the while pursuing intriguing forms and solutions aimed at adding a little extra pleasure to everyday life.
Happy Tree Pottery instagram.com/happy_tree_pottery orders@happytree.pro
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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL
TIKI TIME!
This winter, head to Hawaii with Happy Tree Pottery…
BARON TIMES
Give Christmas a twist with food from the canon of Aleskander Baron…
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ver the last decade or so Aleksander Baron has gone from being regarded as a maverick talent to a full-on national treasure. Credited with re-popularizing the country’s fixation with fermented products, and famed for his use of historic and often unorthodox techniques, his visionary approach to Polish cuisine has won an army of admirers. For a rounded view of this chef’s talents, fill the pantry this Christmas with products sourced from his home delivery service, highlights of which include Polish kimchi packs and eco-minded fermented drinks. Beyond those, browse his page to discover a world of rare Polish wines and ciders, artisanal cheeses, regional dairy products and specialty coffee.
Baron The Family Baronthefamily.pl
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Christmas in the City: Gift Guide
SANTA’S HERE!
As the clock counts down to Christmas, the Insider’s little elves raid Elektrownia Powiśle to stock up on gifts…
Alba 1913
Face cleanser, zł. 185 Everyone loves Alba 1913. Founded in youknow-when, this brand draws on over a century of family herbal and pharmaceutical expertise to present premium natural cosmetics that have gone so far as to earn fans in Hollywood. Catering to both men and women, their products include catch-all solutions such as gift sets. For something more specific, the ‘velvety polisher’ contains dust from Baltic amber and is ideal for a deep cleansing of the face and neck.
Wariackie Papiery
Notepads by Moleskine, from zł. 67 All your paper-related needs are catered for in Wariackie Papiery, but aside from calendars, cards, sketchpads, planners and diaries, it’s for their notebooks that the Insider visits. The choice of brands is abundant, but it’s with Moleskine that you know you’re dealing with the absolute best.
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Jestem Slow Concept Store Vase, zł. 340
The danger with concept stores is that you arrive with one thing in mind and leave with more. That risk is even more real in Jestem Slow: confident personalities will love their clothes, while more private individuals will glow at the sight of their little bits and bobs for home. That means beautifully scented natural candles from Dziki Las; comfy cushions from brands like Pluszanki; or a paper-like clay vases from the peerless Lui & Clay.
Galilu
Skarpetoholik
Orska
When it comes to house and home, candles are the ultimate mood enhancer; but what’s the ultimate candle? From Diptyque, of course. Produced using a 12-step manual process, the care put into these ensures each has a unique wax composition. As if that weren’t special enough, this limited edition Christmas candle features a rotating carousel that produces a magical play of light and shadow.
Of all the Christmas gifts in the world, is there anything more reliable than the humble sock? But at Skarpetoholik, the sock is turned into something fun, artsy and occasionally outrageous (don’t believe us, then take a look at their full portfolio online!). For something safe but quirky, then their Xmas-themed socks aren’t just jolly, but also well-made and durable.
Anna Orska’s artistic jewelry is a wild ride of originality and you could easily spend an hour browsing the collection: chic amber necklaces, dangly Vietnamese-inspired earrings, bracelets made from climbing ropes, or intricate pins cast from bronze… the list could go on. Doing a fine job of surmising her creativity, however, is this robot keyring made from salvaged machinery.
Candle, zł. 450
Christmas socks, zł. 25
Keyring, zł. 420
Flora Point Home Lamp, zł. 278
Trends 4 Kids
Silver racing car, zł. 503 Christmas is not complete without a great big surprise present lying under the tree waiting for the kids to open. Clothing is a forte, but so too are accessories and furnishings – often Polish, and often manufactured from natural materials, the quality is unimpeachable. And there’s fun stuff as well! Ideal for budding boy racers (and girls), this silver racing car is a tribute to the golden age of racing.
Plants are the main driver of Flora Point Home, but if your home already looks like a greenhouse then there’s plenty of other reasons to visit. From the home décor angle, their offer is off-the-wall in its sheer inventiveness. Not short on huge decorative animals and strange, beautiful lights, find those two things merging in the form of this flamingo lamp.
Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
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Christmas in the City: Interview
Specializing in the sale of images from PRL Poland, we catch up with Mikołaj Krupa to talk about the retro paradise that is Afish…
What’s the magic of the images you sell? Two things – first, there’s their artistic quality. Secondly, they really play on nostalgia. Isn’t it amazing to see this kind of Warsaw – with its neon lights, modernist architecture and normal people enjoying a non-digital life?
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Tell us about the photographers you feature… Grazyna Rutowska and Zbyszko Siemaszko. They were both marvelous press photographers with their work published in the likes of Stolica and Perspektywy. Ms. Rutowska’s pictures tend to be much more people-oriented as she tried to present a human face to this city under reconstruction. She was an amazing talent and could capture light in a really unique way. What do you think Afish can do to improve a wall! These images are a great decoration. If you’re looking to add something to an empty wall, sure, you could go for a cliché sunset – but instead, how about
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF AFISH
WINDOW TO THE PAST
What inspired you to start Afish – aren’t you too young to remember the PRL? You’re right. I was born in 1997, so long after those times. But that’s given me a more measured perspective. For sure, the PRL wasn’t a bright, perfect world, and many of the images I sell were used to serve purposes of propaganda. But anyhow, and to cut a long story short, I was a student of Art History at the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts. For one project I had too seek out pictures of multiple modernist pavilions. I came across loads of great pictures that were gathering dust in the archives. I decided they needed an audience that went beyond just a few select researchers.
a picture with a real sense of history? No kidding, there’s a magic to these pictures. As someone that was born here, these pictures make me feel like I’m looking at a different city. It’s a little like Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris! Any favorites? Woah, that’s a big ask! I love them all equally! Forced to pick, I really enjoy the one with the lady leaning against a newsstand on Pl. Konstytucji by Ms. Rutowska. The long exposure lends the newsstand the look of an expensive dollhouse – the small details and general composition make it all so interesting. Meanwhile, from Mr. Siemaszko, I love the PKiN shot. The composition is brilliant and with the light, clouds and whiteness of the palace it looks really rather hypnotizing, don’t you think?
“I want people to realize they’re stepping on the grave of a lost architectural gem”
How do you decide on which pictures to sell? We want to tell stories and show a non-existent side of Warsaw – for instance Emilia, SuperSam and Chemia. Where the latter is concerned, you’ll find the Vitkac department store there now, so I want people to realize they’re stepping on the grave of a lost architectural gem. I hope that these pictures help people connect to the city’s heritage a little more.
Afish Afish.com.pl
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Christmas in the City: Art Gifts Sunset Stunners Firmly established as one of Warsaw’s favorite photographers, Kuba Jurkowski has acquired a massive following under the pseudonym of Light At Night. Famed for his stunning sunsets, sunrises and nocturnal shots, these are images that feel both dynamic yet mysterious. Available in various sizes and formats, find a selection of images on sale with prices ranging from zł. 60 to zł. 1,000 at nowawarszawa.pl/sklep.
Bare walls are out! Lend your living space life with a visual treat…
Eerie & Arty Working under the handle of Cosmoderna, photographer Marcin Wojdak has carved a name for his intrepid urbex images that take viewers into the heart of Poland’s forgotten PRL past. Speaking of its appeal, Wojdak says: “we live in dynamic times that are dominated by consumer culture. Urbex is the opposite of all that. I find peace in abandoned places, and they’re a great reminder that our greedy civilization isn’t as indestructi-
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ble as it thinks.” But though the forgotten is a specialty, Wojdak isn’t averse to pointing his camera around Warsaw. Limited to 50 copies, every photo he’s ever presented on his insta feed is available for sale with each signed, framed and printed on high quality paper. Available in large and smaller formats, prices range from zł. 150 to zł. 180 plus shipping. Contact the artist by PM on: Instagram.com/cosmoderna.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL, EXCEPT OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM BY KEVIN DEMARIA
DECK THE WALLS
Fun & Dreamy We would be well within our rights to refer to Tytus Brzozowski as the Godfather of contemporary Polish surrealism. Achieving global acclaim for his captivating and witty views of Poland’s cities, his Warsaw works will be of particular interest to those of living here. A visual joy, Brzozowski’s works are available in the form of limited prints (with a signed certificate of authentication) ranging from zł. 250 to zł. 800. For bigger spenders, original, framed paintings begin at around zł. 15,000. Fill your basket at: lumarte.eu/ en/tytus-brzozowski
An Eye In The Sky
There can be no round-up of our favorite Warsaw imagery without the word ‘drone’ appearing once. You’ve got zillions of photographers to choose from when it comes to this genre, but it’s Drone In Warsaw that gets our vote for his powerful shots of the Polish capital. For a permanent reminder of his talents, snap up a 2022 calendar – there’s a couple to choose from, with prices veering from zł. 39.99 upto zł. 99.99. See facebook for deets: fb.com/ droneinwarsaw
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DECEMBER STYLE GUIDE: DRESS TO IMPRESS Just because it’s Christmas you need not throw the style book out the window. While others are adorning themselves in reindeer jumpers and seasonal sillies, stock your wardrobe at Designer Outlet Warszawa to look a cut above the rest and exude a quiet air of confident composure… PHOTOGRAPHER: PIOTR NAREWSKI STYLIST: AGATA KLEPACKA
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This spread left to right: Coat by Pinko zł. 2,355 now zł. 1555 Sweater by Pinko zł. 880 now zł. 580 Trousers by Twinset zł. 781 now zł. 601 White coat by Twinset zł.1,233 now zł. 827 Rollneck sweater by Marella / Made in M zł. 579 now zł. 399 Skirt by Manila Grace zł. 748 now zł. 449 Top by Manila Grace zł. 1,507 now zł. 909 Checked jacket by Manila Grace zł. 1,530 now zł. 919 Rollneck sweater by Marella / Made in M zł. 579 now zł. 399 Checked trousers by Manila Grace zł. 817 now zł. 499 Bag by Marella / Made in M zł. 769 now zł. 529 Pinko boots zł. 1,450 now zł. 955 Eyeshadow from Estee Lauder / The Cosmetics Company Store zł. 249 now zł. 174.30
THE LOOK
Think classic and demure: a casual cardigan under an elegant wool or an elegant jacket with hints of equestrian style. Soft mustard shades match well with the neutrals to lend warmth to your look, and remember there’s never a bad time for a pair of killer heels.
PIASECZNO | Puławska 42E designeroutletwarszawa.pl
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Online
Don’t Miss A Beat!
For the latest trends and stories from Warsaw join us at warsawinsider.pl Follow on: facebook.com/warsawinsider & instagram.com/warsawinsider
Just Opened
Eat!
Kooperatywa Dobrze Al. Niepodległości 88, dobrze.waw.pl
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
WE THE PEOPLE!
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ebuting in 2014 as the first cooperative-owned grocery store in Poland, this non-profit oriented initiative has long been hailed as a force for good – and now, they’ve opened down south to go with their ventures in the city center and Muranow. Working direct with 30 farms, find
here a hefty selection of healthy, ecological, local and seasonal food… and at accessible prices. Launching their latest outpost in November, discoveries include fair trade choccies, artisanal bread, vegan products such as tofu and tempeh, organic pastas, dried fruit and nuts and a motherlode of freshly picked fruit and veg.
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Review
JUST BREW-TIFUL
More than just beer alone, Browar Warszawski proves a place of many talents…
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VISUALS Simply put, these are stunning. To see it from the best angle, walk down the mural-clad steps to Browary’s half-submerged plaza before finding Browar sitting to the left. Through grand vaulted arches, one is met by a striking glass façade which conceals the brewery itself.
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
COORDINATES Unless you’ve spent the last few months trapped inside a cave, there’s little doubt that you’ve heard about Browary Warszawskie – revamped as a swanky mixed-use development, the historic Haberbusch and Schiele brewery has received the mother of all facelifts to become an energetic micro-district swarming with eateries, high-end condos, artsy installations and future-forward offices. But at its heart – both spiritually and physically – sits Browar Warszawski, a multi-floored emporium that has revived this area’s brewing traditions.
Review First things first, this place is vast, but never does it feel so thanks to a design that has done much to carve it into several different areas. Naturally, pride of place belongs to an illuminated bar, but take your time to explore the different corners and levels to find a venue that presents itself with a thousand different faces – comfortable armchairs, flourishes of vintage, industrial leftovers, shining beer tanks… there’s even a bed positioned in front of a retro TV. Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beautiful. VIBES If the place is beautiful, then so too are the guests inside – attracting a global generation of aspirational people, it feels reassuringly cosmopolitan in its outlook and feel. There’s a diversity at play here, and that’s aided and abetted by weekend DJs that lift the atmosphere that extra notch. But Browar’s real talent lies in its adaptability. Yes, you can feel the high energy on a Friday, but it’s also equally at home acting as a mid-week lunch point to chat work, or for that sacred 5 p.m. pint following Wednesday in the office. Whatever your needs, the mood fits all.
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...look no further than the chef’s fish & chips. No word of a lie, these are the best we’ve ever found outside of England
MAKE IT A PINT Beer is central to Browar Warszawski, and running that side of operations is the skilled Dawid Bąk. There’s 18 house warsawinsider.pl
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Browar Warszawski ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, browarwarszawski.com
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beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Heavily slanted towards classic styles, the temptation to go for shock value is avoided, with Bąk instead preferring to seek quality and consistency – in this, the house IPA is the perfect example of a sensible pint that’s been interpreted with respect. Paying heed to Poland’s beery history, find also traditional offerings like the super-smoky Grodziskie or the thick, heavy Porter. Of course, trends have not been ignored, and for us the Milkshake IPA has become the first and last order. AND THERE’S MORE… As crazy as it may seem, not everyone likes beer. Browar Warszawski respects this by presenting a thoughtful choice of cocktails that include the Browar Sour – a tart and delicious drink based on Ostoya vodka. Whiskies, too, are numerous in number, with the choice extending into triple figures, whilst the wine side of things is succinct but quality-focused. No matter what you like, it’s simply not conceivable that you’ll be leaving with a thirst.
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TABLE TALK Reasons to visit are multiple, and the food is right up there. First things first, and you expect a brewery to specialize in hefty dishes that pair with the whole beer-swigging thang, and yes, Browar do just that. If there’s a difference, then it’s with the nuance and sophistication that such dishes are prepared – bossed by Dmitrij Babak, this is a kitchen that understands concepts of subtlety and grace. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, though lighter wallets need look no further than the chef’s fish
& chips. No word of a lie, these are the best we’ve ever found outside of England. But much like the rest of Browar Warszawski, the menu is a flexible affair, and this is demonstrated by the presence of beautifully composed snacky platters; award-winning Antonius caviar; and grilled tiger prawns. Again, if you don’t find something you like, then you need to give your glasses a rub.
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Paying heed to Poland’s beery history, find also traditional offerings like the super-smoky Grodziskie or the thick, heavy Porter
Review RA, RA, RAMEN!
The perfect spot for Warsaw’s ramentics…
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ositioned above Wierzbno metro station, and looking like something straight out of Kung Fu Panda, this curious wooden shack serves just about the most complex and flavorsome ramen the Insider has had to date. Offering up a spicy vege tantanmen loaded with fermented goodness, it’s an unforgettable potion of savory peanut essence topped with enough chili oil to put winter on hold. Guaranteed to dazzle, it’ll probably be too much for one person, so bring a partner and order a side of soboro fries to share and complete this eastern adventure. BBQ Ramen-ya Naruszewicza 29, fb.com/bbqramen
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Review
A
A LEGEND IS BORN
Chatty and convivial, it’s a place in which you enter as a stranger but leave with friends…
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VIBE The buzz around the bar is a staple of nighttime visits, though for more chilled vibes then visit during lighter hours. It’s a pretty big and ambitious space given that the place is focused around cheap eats and not-so-trendy beers, but it fills fast – gather here yourself, and you’ll be doing so in a place of vaulted ceilings painted in the same mundane sandy shades that splash many of Warsaw’s buildings. The menu, written up on a whiteboard, is barely legible, but that’s all part of the charm.
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
decade back, a night in Warsaw wasn’t complete without a trip to Przekąski Zakąski – set in the corner of the Europejski, it was here cabbies and end-of-shift workers would squash in alongside tourists and partying locals to nip on plates of herring and shots of vodka. Somewhere inside this whirlwind, you’d have found the soul of Warsaw. When it closed in 2013, it’s loss was felt across the city, but while many have since tried to emulate it – with varying degrees of success – only now do the shoes feel finally filled. Though lacking the roundthe-clock hours, for that credit rests with this place. Opened by the same people behind the foggy, budget-minded Pyzy, Flaki Gorące in Praga, we can at last say a new legend has been born.
Pyzy, Flaki Gorące Podwale 5 ul. Podwale 5, pyzyflakigorace.pl
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Clearly baked with care, there’s much to indicate experience and a basic love of food...
FOOD Polish pizza!? You gottit’. While it won’t provide competition for any of the new wave Neapolitan pizzerias around town, they’re still very decent and come with a focus on Polish-style toppings like beets, salmon and chanterelles. Clearly baked with care, there’s much to indicate experience and a basic love of food. But the real deal here is the homemade Polish fare. Natutrally, pyzy are the highlight. What are these? Think
of a stuffed potato dumpling crammed into a jar with the sauce of your choice. Guaranteeing the Insider’s return custom is pesto made from parsley. For something a little more daring, the spicy pork comes with a heap of jalapeños to kick it up that extra notch. And outside the realm of pyzy, look at the refrigerated display on the counter for fresh offerings of lard with apples, potato salad, herring and nózki (cold, jellied pork).
DRINKS No craft beer here, instead stick to the Polish mainstream or else look to their trio of taps from Browar Amber. Something of a saving grace, their Żywe, Amber and Pszeniczniak beers are really quite good. If you’re suffering any post-meal bloat, or even if you’re not, then a pop of vodka also makes an ideal partner for the night. Served in chilled, miniature jars, they’re a great companion on a dark, December day. (KD)
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Holidays
A CHRISTMAS TO REMEMBER!
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ooking to ring in Christmas in style? If so, it comes as born fact that there isn’t a more prestigious address than Krakowskie Przedmieście 13. What lies there? The Raffles Europejski Warsaw. Completed in 1857 to the Neo-Renaissance design of architect Henryk Marconi, and subsequently revived under
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the Raffles banner three-years back, luxury comes expected at this sumptuous hotel. But you need not be a hotel guest to enjoy it. As already proved by the storming success of their food and drink options, the Raffles Europejski has emerged as the first choice for resident Varsovians to enjoy a gilded life – and never has that held truer than during the festive season.
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF EUROPEJSKI GRILL
Offering a range of indulgent options, pamper yourself and your loved ones this Christmas at the Raffles Europejski Warsaw…
Europejski Grill ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Warsaw), raffles.com/warsaw
BOOK YOUR PLACE! Christmas Eve
Taking place on December 24th, visit the Europejski Grill for a festive menu priced according to consumption.
Christmas & New Year’s Roast
Sitting on Dec 25th and Jan 1st, the Europejski Grill will host a roast dinner based around suckling pig and catfish, but also featuring Siberian caviar and a lavish dessert spread. Price, zł. 450 (inc. soft drinks).
New Year’s Eve Dinner
Priced at zł. 980, the five-course menu includes oysters, caviar, poached turbot and a glass of midnight champers.
Contact information Tel. +48 533 393 254 Email: europejskigrill@ raffles.com
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Review COORDINATES Third time lucky? The last few years have seen Karma serve-up in the city center, out in Mokotów before finally settling up north next door to Muranów. With an entrance half-hidden behind a little cabin, find it set within a hulking Socialist Realist block inside a unit that once ticked by selling wedding dresses. Now, this address sells something a lot more valuable: curry.
INSTANT KARMA In Karma, you don’t wait long for good things to happen…
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ORDER Karma won’t be in line for any design awards, but food accolades, that’s a different matter – say this quietly, but this is on its way to becoming our favorite Indian in Warsaw. For starters, the bhajis are a joy, while the chili chicken is all crunch and spice. Indulgent in size, it could easily pass for a main. Speaking of which, that’s where Karma go the extra level. Using the basics as a barometer, the chicken tikka butter masala is a classic dish that’s faithfully interpreted by the kitchen team. Rich and thick, it’s a dish that bangs with
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
THE LOOK Looking a little ill-proportioned with its vast, echoey ceilings and stark lighting Karma’s latest address lacks the finesse of their previous, yet for all that it’s a big plus to have an open kitchen sitting at the top – what could otherwise be considered a drab room is given extra punch by the sizzling presence of the chef’s HQ. Though perhaps a little too bare bones in its fit-out, you’ll feel at ease courtesy of a truly charming staff that are both helpful and cooperative.
Karma ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II), restauracjakarma.com.pl
such flavor that you stand to be reminded of your favorite curry house back home. Equally faultless is the vindaloo. Now for years, this has been the Insider’s default order across Poland, yet we continue to be amazed by just how many places get this wrong. Karma do not. High on firepower, but not to the detriment of actual taste, it’s a heat-seeker's pleasure – a curry with the capacity to tingle the teeth while maintaining a multi-dimensional front that goes beyond the bog standard
offers presented by the vast majority of Indian restaurants. SPECIALS Outside the more generic items, the menu deserves applause for spidering out into different directions. Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by the presence of golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. In a city filled with identical Indian menus, Karma is positively
mind-bending in its choices. FINAL WORD It might not look exciting, but Karma definitely does taste so. Where Warsaw’s curry scene is concerned, you’ve got three levels of competency – a bottom rung occupied by a handful of truly dreadful restaurants, then a mid-table section crowded with frustratingly average options. Then at the top, you’ve got a small smattering of greats – Karma definitely belongs in this last group.
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Delivery
THERE’S A GOOD JOKR
Touting delivery times of just 15-minutes, a new grocery delivery service looks set to change the game…
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most areas of Warsaw (inc. Wola, Mokotów, Służewiec, Bielany, Ursynów, Gocław, Grochów, Wilanów and Śródmieście) with imminent plans to grow even further. “We are changing the rules of the game in terms of instant online deliveries in Poland. Our goal is simple: we want to provide customers with the products they really need quickly and cheaply, while providing them with the best experience on the market,” says Piotr Lagowski, co-founder of JOKR. Aside from well-known brands, JOKR have also placed an emphasis on local produce, working with small-scale suppliers so as
to provide products popular in particular localities – and that applies to regional and craft beers as well with JOKR offering an array of trending beverages from Poland’s most exciting breweries.
Pairing speed and convenience with fair prices and a generous selection, the JOKR revolution is only just beginning. “We want to be seen as an extra fridge. If someone notices that they are low on butter while baking, they can order it and we will deliver it in 15-minutes. During this time, they can easily beat the eggs. Thanks to this, our customers won’t lose a moment of time,” added Lagowski.
code:
INSIDER
Value: zł. 30 discount for first-time in-app purchases of zł. 50 or over. Offer does not include alcohol, beer, cider or children’s products. Code valid until 31st January, 2022.
PRESS MATERIAL
U
nannounced guests? A hungry, angry child? Or a special event that’s run short of booze! Such situations are common, but now these nightmare scenarios have been cracked by an online delivery service that recognizes that time is EVERYTHING. Heralded as their first European city, and one of the first in their entire global portfolio, Warsaw has proved a highly-valued strategic site for JOKR, and their early success has been a precursor to what many have dubbed as being “the future of supermarkets”. To see for yourself, download JOKR’s app using iOS or Android to find all your food and drink needs at your fingertips, whether they be alcohol, snacks, or fruit, veg, meat and bread. Delivering door-to-door in 15-minutes, find them available in
Eat! listings author’s cuisine ALE WINO
You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul.
space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A
KLONN
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet
Mokotowska 48
BIBENDA
Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10
DYLETANCI
Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive
Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl
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Eat! listings while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B
MOD
An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.
Oleandrów 8
RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA
Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
ROZBRAT 20
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service
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and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20
bakeries AROMAT
“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations
CAŁA W MĄCE
“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18
RANO
Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and
smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47
chinese PAŃSKA 85
Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85
REGINA BAR
Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1
comfort food BURGER BAR
Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger
Eat! listings joint that still bosses the field.
ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43
PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ
Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47
POGROMCY MEATÓW
Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1
desserts
have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.
Chmielna 27/31 & Dzielna 64
KUKUŁKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction. ul. Mokotowska 52
MISS MELLOW
Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches,
financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62
MOD DONUTS
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27
SŁODKI BEZ
Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea
AM’OR EKLERY I WINO
You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well. ul. Kurcza 23/31
BOZZO
As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo
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Eat! listings brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl
fine dining EPOKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. ul. Ossolińskich 3
EUROPEJSKI GRILL
Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
NOBU
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of
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modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73
NOLITA
For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul.
Wilcza 46
SIGNATURE
Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former interwar Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15
SZÓSTKA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with
lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
french L’ARC
Looking elegant with its black/ white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16
georgian RUSIKO
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.
Al. Ujazdowskie 22
Eat! listings greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality.
ul. Londyńska 16
MYKONOS
indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE
Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58
BOMBAJ MASALA
Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23
Grzybowska 62
Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)
SANTORINI
CURRY HOUSE
Egipska 7
For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)
BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA
You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul.
Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.
WELCOME TO GREECE!
Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe
BEST of WA R S AW 2020
Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!
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Eat! listings request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54
GURU
The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8
INDIA GATE
Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Al. Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl
italian ALTRO LOCALE
Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step. ul. Willowa 9
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DZIURKA OD KLUCZA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B
FOCACCIA
The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul.
Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl
LE BRACI
You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. For us, in September, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots. ul. Górnośląska 24
POSYPANE
A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli
with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. ul. Hoża 43/49
PROSCIUTTERIA
When Prosciutteria first opened, ooh, three years or so ago, it was hailed a sensation and proof as to the far-reaching ambitions of Warsaw’s burgeoning gastro scene. Based around cold cuts and served on heavy wooden boards, here was a convincing Italian menu to be enjoyed in a snug, warm interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork and black and white images of Italian stars. You felt like you were on holiday. Now also doubling as a deli, it’s an orgy of tastes: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; salami from Milan and Naples; five-year-old Veneto cheese washed in beer. ul. Solec 85
japanese ARIGATOR
This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54
Eat! listings JAPONKI & JAPONKA
Two venues sitting practically opposite each other. The former, that’s a Japanese store that boosts its daily footfall by knocking out the best sushi in Warsaw in boxes to-go. Using only certified farmed fish as well as short-grain rice fused with Japanese vinegars, such has been the hype, it’s not uncommon to find food running short as the day progresses. Then there’s their sister, Japonka, a restaurant whose robata grill dishes are in the process of conquering the city – full report coming soon! Krochmalna 61 & Grzybowska 56
SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS
It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. ul. Moliera 4/6
SATO GOTUJE
Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24
SHOKU
At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space (or
vast back garden) to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul.
Karolkowa 30
UKI UKI
How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31
WABU
Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw
Spire)
YATTA
Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Bartoszewicza 3
korean HESU WARSAW
Looking at the design components
isn’t unlike viewing a Pinterest board featuring all the other new-wave joints around town, and that familiarity extends to a millennial color palette high on clashing shades of pastel. Staff, almost predictably come with mustaches, tatts and Hawaiian shirts, and these trend-conscious foot soldiers bring forth one of the city’s best kimchi salads. Blue rice and loaded cocktails add to the fun, young slant.
ul. Oboźna 9
THE COOL CAT
Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)
K-BAR
Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss. ul. Piękna 28/34
KOREANKA
A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and
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Eat! listings eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul. Koszykowa 59
latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR
With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4
mexican EL POPO
Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27
GRINGO BAR
A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping
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lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. ul. Odolańska 15
LA SIRENA
Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54
SENOR LUCAS
Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)
middle eastern JOEL SHARING CONCEPT
Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef
and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1
LE CEDRE 84
To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84
MAGHREB
Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the addons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9
polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods
Eat! listings that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4
BEZ GWIAZDEK
Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul.
Wiślana 8
PATELNIA PATERA
Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere! ul. Wilcza 29A, fb.com/PatelniaPatera
POLANA SMAKÓW
Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14
THE EATERY
Terrazzo surfaces, orb-like lights and a clear white color palette give The Eatery a comfortable look that’s
well-suited to a modern Polish menu delivered by chef Bartłomiej Trojanowski. Highlights from our visit – and there were many – included panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock; art-like Ruskie pierogi; and a mushroom soup the like of which we haven’t tried before. Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. ul. Ostrobramska 73E, eatery.pl
ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ
A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4
polish (classic) LOKALNA BISTRONOMIA
The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sourrye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and cho-pped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. ul. Nieporęcka 6
PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE
Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the
district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31
RESTAURACJA POLSKA “RÓŻANA”
Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. ul. Chocimska 7
STARY DOM
A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106
seafood L’ARC
Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. ul. Puławska 16
LOKAL NA RYBĘ
Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by
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Eat! listings a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4
steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER
Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul.
Nowogrodzka 47A
BYKBAR
Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8
BUTCHERY & WINE
When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.
ul. Żurawia 22
HOŻA
Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right
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out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A
KONESER GRILL
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29
(Centrum Praskie Koneser)
MIĘSNY
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64
thai BANGKOK SOI
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok
Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. Al. Jana Pawła II 50
THAISTY
Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4
russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH
Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19
SKAMIEJKA
As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is
Eat! listings second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul. Ząbkowska 37
vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI
Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11
KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU
First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60
LEONARDO VERDE
Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13
LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO
Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks,
burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul.
Krucza 23/31
ÓSMA KOLONIA
Having been established in 2014, this gem of vegetarian/vegan restaurant opened long before the plant-based new wave landed in Warsaw. A place of distressed concrete and dangling bare bulbs, design isn’t so much minimal as it is non-existent, but that fits in with the underlying spirit of natural cool. ul.
Słowackiego 15/19
PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS
Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come. ul. Mokotowska 58
TEL AVIV
A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11
VEGAN RAMEN SHOP
Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with
‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul.
Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54
UKI GREEN
Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A
YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI
Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. ul. Hoża 62
vietnamese MISS BANH MI
A former model by profession, Nina’s traditional tofu and homemade bread (baked fresh each day!) combine in the form of memorable banh mi. Glowing warmly from the outside, step inside this small, steamy unit to pick from five choices, among them meatballs with fermented egg yolk. Salty and tender, they taste even better when paired with a local craft beer or a Vietnamese coffee. ul. Lwowska 9
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Drink! S
LOVE YOU A LATTE
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SACRED MILL BREW BAR
Revealing Wola’s sacred secret…
lick and polished, there’s maybe little at face value to set Sacred Mill aside from the other high-gloss coffee stops found in Warsaw’s business district. Through a heavy glass door visitors enter a space that’s minimal in size and design – lots of dark, hard surfaces offset by whites and charcoal colors and a few green succulents. As a look, it’s clean and intelligent and entirely fitting with the area. But you ain’t here for the design. Hell no. The winner here is coffee, and coffee as roasted by Sacred Mill since February of this year. Championing fair trade, arrive with high expectations for these will be met by a personable barista that’s equally happy to babble in tongues with coffee geeks, or demystify its merits with specialty novices. Focused but not limited to African coffees, find this crew following Nordic roasting practice which, it transpires, means light roasted coffees of consistent quality. “We believe it brings out the full flavor potential of each coffee,” they say. But things get even more interesting with their seasonal offers. Keen to play about, drop in for an oat-based latte served with “an in-house blend of warming winter spices and finished with a dash of cayenne pepper”. Vegetarian sandwiches and a series of homemade cakes top off the what’s a well-rounded experience.
Sacred Mill Brew Bar ul. Grzybowska 43A, sacredmill.coffee
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PHOTOGRAPHS @DSCLL KASIA MIKOŁOWICZ
Cocktail Hour
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Reginabar ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1
GIRLS ON TOP!
Fun, fancy and full of retro flair, Regina Bar’s new cocktail menu has landed…
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ith its retro NYC vibe, you can count on Regina Bar to deliver something fun, and this they’ve done by unleashing a new cocktail menu inspired by classic pop tracks of the Noughties, 90s and 80s before them. “The resurgence in interest in these times can already be seen in the worlds of fashion, art and design,” says the resident cocktail maestro Ewa Nowicka, “so I thought I’d apply that pop culture concept to my latest cocktail menu.” Titled Girls On Top, the revised drinks list presents glitzy drinkies themed around the chart hits of the time such as, for instance, Girls Just Wanna’ Have Fun, a fancy composition of Bombay sapphire gin, cacao, lime, Prosecco Martini and coriander seeds. “These are the songs we all love here in Regina, and they’re the ones we find stuck in our heads all of the time – now, we’ve made them available in liquid form!” Effortlessly capturing the spirit of New York’s Little Italy and China Town, consider Regina Bar the perfect playground for such wacky thinking. Hip with a hint of avant garde, this deliciously decadent spot is a mirror of everything that the contemporary Varsovian loves and seeks – and don’t think you can sip down on anything without first sending it to the internet!
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The resurgence in interest in these times can already be seen in the worlds of fashion, art and design, so I thought I’d apply that pop culture concept to my latest cocktail menu
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BECAUSE FUN NEVER DIED…
Join us for a retrospective of the hottest launches of 2021!
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THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Hot List
BEER STATION CENTRUM ul. Lwowska 17 Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness. Belarussian-owned, a pre-Lukashenko flag sits defiantly behind a bar that serves a stack of freshly-tapped craft beers. Popular with an international crowd, it’s a great place for a good honest night of boozy salutations! BROWAR WARSZAWSKI ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Greatness was expected from this place, and greatness is what the public duly received. But more than just an excellent craft brewery, it’s popularity was born from a commitment to look beyond anticipated limits – appealing to a smart, ambitious crowd, BW became known for a multi-faceted offer that was staggering in scope. FLAMING BISTRO ul. Francuska 2 With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But the big hit this year was it’s back garden, complete with a gorgeous balcony accessed by an iconic spiral set of stairs. Drinkswise, Saska’s impeccable denizens gathered to enjoy awesome house cocktails that were up there with the best. HOPITO ul. Żurawia 32/34 Bloody good fun, that’s what Hopito proved to be. Appealing to a far younger, more party-oriented crowd than the area’s other craft joints, that much is expressed via a décor heavy on neon and black and white doodles by Poland’s most eminent street artists. And with beer supplied by maverick brewery Hopito, you just knew that this place was always going to work. LANE’S ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel) Opened in the days before we went to press, it’s a big call to name this as among the hottest openings of 2021 but it’s a risk we’re ready to assume. Gorgeously appointed in elegant golds and plush shades of rose, this gin-focused cocktail bar has
already done much to impress. Equipped with ‘ring for gin’ buttons on each table, and serving fabulous Nikkei cuisine, it’s impact will continue into the year that follows – and quite probably beyond. LA BUVETTE ul. Mochnackiego 4/43 Nestled on a charming street that radiates off Pl. Narutowicza, in brighter months it’s a pleasure to dawdle on the terrace admiring the little dogs that scuttle around their owners. Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg.
NOLA ul. Wilcza 43 NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s. NOWY BERLIN ul. Nowy Świat 27A If 2020 was the year the world forgot how to dance, 2021 was the year it learned to do it all again. In Warsaw’s case, no club made as many headlines as Nowy Berlin. Opened in October, you understand why its being hyped as the one to watch in 2022. As the name might suggest, head here for to top-up on electronic vibes.
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Hot List RAJ PIWOSZA Bora-Komorowskiego 56A With covid has come a new inclination to forego the center and stay closer to home. That served to benefit the suburbs, and new launches such as Raj Piwosza. Set on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław and Saska Kępa, this place became a friendly haven of craft beer, niche wines and artisanal liquid somethings.
PINTA ul. Chmielna 7/9 It was about time that the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene opened a flagship bar in the capital, and after several delays they finally did that in the middle of the summer. Set across two glass-fronted floors around the back of Chmielna, the Scandi-styled interiors proved a popular place in which to imbibe the best of Polish craft.
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THE ROOF Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (The HUB) Perched on the 21st floor of one of Wola’s newest gleaming towers, The Roof allows visitors to glimpse stars in their eyes – offering enthralling views of the city down below, you’ll be mixing with an A-list clientele that gathers to enjoy a backdrop that’s luxurious, elegant and yet tastefully restrained. To enter? Dress to kill. VHS BAR ul. Poznańska 7 This 80s-themed cocktail bar won plaudits for more than just its sense of humor. Named after figures like Lauper, Idol and The Hoff, the cocktails proved brilliant, as did the atmosphere itself. Set inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends, VHS (and it’s mad, magical bathroom) became a legend of Poznańska. WINNEM POWIŚLE ul. Tamka 37 Beautifully decorated with bottles adorning the spotless walls, Winnem Powiśle bears all the hallmarks of a place on the verge of achieving greatness. Already, we know it as a purveyor of unusual, bio wines from cult, little vineyards. Their reputation will soar yet further in 2022.
PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA
PALOMA INN ul. Poznańska 21 Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue, an Instagrammable mandarin-colored bathroom and mega fun cocktails.
RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ Wilcza 27 As a restaurant this place went a little under-the-radar – subsequently reinvented as a wine bar, it fared a whole lot better garnering praise for its extensive collection of unexpected wines. Paired with an engaging and intimate interior, you had one of the year’s big winners.
Drink! listings after work classics LEGENDS
Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25,
legendsbar.pl
WOZOWNIA
Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.
Trzech Krzyży 16
clubbing LUZTRO
Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards
daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! Al. Jerozolimskie 6
SEN
Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck
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Drink! listings slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. ul. Wioślarska 6
SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Almost insane in the scale of its ambition, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country. Pl. Konesera 4
SPATIF
Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control Al.
Ujazdowskie 45
cocktails AURA
Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design
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that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27
craft beer DRUGIE DNO
To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station. Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4
JABEERWOCKY
Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12
KUFLE I KAPSLE
Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful
of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25
SAME KRAFTY
Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10
dive bars NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’
For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.
ŚWIETLICA
Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s
Drink! listings everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17
W OPARACH ABSURDU
Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6
late night legends BAR PACYFIK
Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61
BAR STUDIO
The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1
BEIRUT & KRAKEN
Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12
GRAM
Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul.
Marszałkowska 45/49
live entertainment HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet
and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22
KLUB POGŁOS
Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12
PLAN B
Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)
specialty coffee COFFEEDESK
Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42
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Drink! listings COPHI
The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60
FAT WHITE
Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul.
Andersa 6
FORUM
Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11
RELAKS
An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in
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chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48
STOR
Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul.
Tamka 33
wine bars ALE WINO
fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul.
Koszykowa 49A
DYLETANCI
The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). ul. Rozbrat 44
Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul.
MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR
BUBBLES
WINNICE MOŁDAWII
Mokotowska 48
Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9
CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE Deeply relaxing in its own quietly
Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)
Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house. Wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden: doing so, you’ll come close to drowning in bliss and authentic hospitality. ul. Czarnieckiego 63A
Just Opened
Ania Kuczyńska Rozbrat 28/30, aniakuczynska.com
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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
LOOK WHO’S BACK!
ong celebrated for her austere but intriguing forms, few designers have dominated ‘the Warsaw look’ in quite the same manner as Ania Kuczyńska. But having caused headlines after closing her Mokotowska HQ, this standout designer has returned with a new flagship store down on fashionable Rozbrat. Created in tandem with her architect father, it’s a design that naturally places the spotlight on clothing that Kuczyńska herself defines as being an example of “ornate minimalism”. Lauded by titles such as Vogue, shop here and you’ll do so alongside the city’s A-list.
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WILHELM SASNAL: SUCH A LANDSCAPE
One of the cultural highlight’s of Warsaw’s year, don’t miss Wilhelm Sasnal’s first major Polish exhibition since 2007…
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ften lauded as the greatest talent of his generation, Wilhelm Sasnal’s latest exhibition has been met with a flood of praise since opening earlier in the year, and in the process opened a Pandora’s Box that questions how we view the Holocaust. Depicting Poland in the wake of the Shoah, the exhibition grapples with weighty topics that examine loss, guilt, absence, exclusion, nationalism and alienation. Deeply layered, it goes further to address issues relating to xenophobia and cultural appropriation. “It’s a complex exhibition because this is a complex painter,” explains the curator, Adam Szymczyk. “Moreover, it presents works painted over a 20-year timespan so of course it will be challenging.” Of the sixty or so paintings, many directly reference Poland’s landscape, which Sasnal presents against the haunting shadow of the Holocaust. In one painting, he depicts his bicycle standing in front of the vastness of Majdanek; in another, his wife stares out of the window at the gates of
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Birkenau – titled The First of January, the idea for the work came after the couple found themselves accidentally driving past the Nazi death camp on New Year’s Day. Viewing these, you feel the void left behind by the genocidal policies of the Nazi regime. Posing tough questions, and tinged with a heavy sense of melancholy, this is an exhibition designed to make an impact. However, Szymczyk stresses that the intention is not to cause division but rather to build bridges. “In these difficult times, and our current reality, I hope this exhibition gives people a glimmer of hope,” he says. “We have a history we need to understand and address, and only by doing so can we come to terms with the present.”
Wilhelm Sasnal: Such a Landscape When: ongoing till January 10th, 2022 Where: ul. Anielewicza 6 (Polin) Cost: PLN 20 / 15 Web: polin.pl/en/wilhelm-sasnal
Hala Gwardii Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl
EVENTS DECEMBER 4 & 5
The eastern borderlands of Podlasie will be the theme with this market bringing this fairytale province right to the capital’s doorstep. Head here to stock up on natural gemstones, beeswax products, folksy handicrafts, eco cosmetics, traditional decorations and organic foodstuffs.
DECEMBER 17 TO 23
At annual Christmas Market visitors can anticipate vegan chocolate from Sandomierz, bio cosmetics, old and new vinyl records, a pre-war poster fair and lots of stocking fillers such as scented candles and oils. As always, there’ll also be plenty of pressies and accessories for your fourlegged friends.
A CHRISTMAS CRACKER
Hala Gwardii shapes up for a tree-mendous Xmas…
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n a city preoccupied with shiny, new things, Gwardii’s raw and uncompromising authenticity has seen it evolve into something far more valuable than just yet another food hub. Remaining staunchly scruffy in the most charming of ways, there’s little that’s contrived here and it’s perhaps through this that it has managed to so successfully establish its own thriving community. This felt especially pronounced last year, when amid the gloom of the lockdown it offered the city’s brightest sparkle of seasonal cheer. And no matter what this December may hold on the shutdown front (please God, no!), Gwardii looks certain to cement its reputation as a fundamental element of Christmas in Warsaw.
DECEMBER 18 & 19
Visit on the 18th and 19th to stock up on traditional borscht and mushroom soup. Prepared by a yet-to-be-named chef (we’re told to expect a high-profile figure), proceeds will go to the underprivileged of Warsaw’s eastern flank to fund kids' holidays and breaks.
DECEMBER 23
Whether you’re missing a key ingredient or just prefer for someone else to put in the hard work themselves, at Gwardii you’ll be able to order up high-quality, traditional Christmas foods before picking them up on the 23rd (or before!).
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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
warsaw montessori family
Warsaw Montessori Schools
Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org
Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19
Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek
Elementary
BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
Szwoleżerów 4
„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a
THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE
Montessori High School
Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl
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reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1
The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a
18.12.2018 12:32
lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego
84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl
THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,
tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL
(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Established in 1994, The Trilingual
School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),
ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE
The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts
children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI
Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6
years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A
(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES
An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a
ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125
thebritishschool.pl
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system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728
939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
schools
AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL
Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.
Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been
welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:
admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org
BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International
Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit .
THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW
Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
THE ENGLISH PRIMARY
The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the
monnet international school
PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN
IB World School no 001483
70
's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N
Education for a better world
Belwederska 6a, Warsaw
www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole
Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2021
primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784
037 808, tep.edu.pl
THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL
Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made
for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL
Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl
MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school.
Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org
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The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education.
ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL
A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4
(grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf. edu.pl
WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL
Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.
Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL
Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy
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such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.
787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
shopping accessories BEAUTYLAB POLSKA
Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro
CHIARA (SASKA KĘPA)
You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. ul. Ostro-
bramska 75C
EYEBAR
At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl
FREY WILLE
The place to go to if you’re looking for jewelry that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of color. ul. Nowy Świat 37
GLAMSTORE
Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83
(entry from ul. Łowicka)
HOS&ME
Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63
KATE ROXS
Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” ul. Radna 10,
kateroxs.eu
LEKKO
Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of self-care and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com
MALTON & KIELMAN
This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the classical British and Italian look. ul.
Chmielna 6
MANDEL
Valuing traditional craftsmanship
and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com
MO61
Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61
PINGLE OPTYK
A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40
PRACOWNIA SZCZOTEK
fashion
ARKADIA MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE
Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com
Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down the family line. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” ul.
PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4
SCHUBERT
THE ODDER SIDE
Poznańska 26
Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl
YOPE
Hand creams, lotions, liquid soaps, gels and cleaning products made using top quality, natural ingredients. Fragrant and funkily packaged, scents include cinnamon, honey, verbena and vanilla. Pl. Żelaznej
Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii), yope.me
experiences
Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl
PAN TU NIE STAL
Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com
Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.
Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
GALERIA MOKOTÓW
Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.
Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl
KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION
Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl
PLAC UNII
One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
MYSIA 3
Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
VITKAC WOLF BRACKA
Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. ul. Bracka 9,
likusconceptstore.pl
ZŁOTE TARASY
Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!
Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM
The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.
museum
MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM
A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and
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rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.
Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
MUSEUM OF WARSAW
Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with
curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,
muzeumwarszawy.pl
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.
That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl
NEON MUSEUM
Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading
artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
POLIN
Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.
Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM
If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska
79, 1944.pl
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museums CAR MUSEUM
Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird, Russian-made Volgas, Wałęsa’s bullet-proof Volvo, a ZIS 110 Cabriolet once used to carry Yuri Gagarin, and Gierek’s Cadillac Fleetwood. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy)
Marie SkłodowskaCurie Museum
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc.ul. Kredytowa
1, ethnomuseum.pl
THE HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTER
Zachęta National Art Gallery
This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13,
mhw.pl
JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE
Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl
Copernicus Science Centre
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MUSEUM OF DOLL HOUSES, GAMES & TOYS
Formerly found inside PKiN, this beautiful treasure features spectacularly crafted doll houses that provide
a stunning ‘freeze frame’ into the past. Now, the collection has been boosted by the addition of toys and games, many of which are from the PRL era. ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4
MUSEUM OF PRAGA
The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl
PALMIRY NATIONAL MEMORIAL MUSEUM
An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl
PAWIAK
What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26
POLISH VODKA MUSEUM
The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being
completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl
THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW
Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl
TRAIN MUSEUM
Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl
experiences COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20
FOTOPLASTIKON
Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51,
fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl
PARK MINIATUR
Ghosting around the city, the spectacular miniature park now has a new home! Find magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures. ul. Marszał-
kowska 105
galleries CENTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART (CSW) Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul. Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl
DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ
The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul.
Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl
MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA
Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Miriam Cahn. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl
ZACHĘTA GALLERY
Consistently challenging our perception of “what art is”, the Zachęta’s reputation precedes itself: a bastion of contemporary art, its ever-changing lineup of exhibitions have presented a range of Polish and international artists. Always on-edge, this is arguably the most famous gallery in the country. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl
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Praga Zoo
10 ki aw
Powązki Cemetery
Andersa
St
7 Jewish Cemetery
6 Old Town
5 1
2 ska kow
szał Mar
4 9 km
ska bow
Grzy
2
4 a zysk tokr Swie
ta
Pros
skie
olim eroz
Palace of Culture & Science
Al. J
9
11
1
8 2
3
Łazienki Park
1 19 km
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3 4 km
7
MAP 5
6
shopping exeriences 1
Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2
Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium
3
Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4
Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5
Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6
Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7
Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8
Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
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Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10
Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11
Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
museums 1
National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2
The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
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Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7
POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
stores 1
Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
3
Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4
Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5
Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
warsawinsider.pl
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This Month inside. And credit is also due to the poppy seed cake (makowiec) traditionally served at the end. With the consumption of poppy seeds once liked to prosperity and fertility, it’s long been a popular addition to Poland’s Christmas table.
• Most feared, at least by for-
eigners, is the bony, dead-eyed carp. Traditionally kept alive in the bathtub in the lead-up to Xmas so as to filter out the mud, common tips to improve its taste include frying it with clarified butter or animal fat rather than oil.
• A heap of non-food traditions
Known as Wigilia, Christmas Eve is the key date in Poland’s Xmas calendar – and here’s what you need to know…
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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2021
• For foreigners, the most
uncomfortable moment is most likely to be the opening act of the Wigila dinner – the sharing of a consecrated wafer (opłatek). It’s a tender and familial moment, and frankly a little awkward if you happen to be a non-native interloper.
• From there, you have 12 dish-
es to endure, some of which are deadlier than others. Where this Insider is concerned, the more palatable side involves beetroot soup (barszcz), a dish often accompanied by tiny-ear shaped dumplings (uszki) floating
• But for what’s now become
one of the biggest traditions of all, look no further than Home Alone! Titled Kevin W Samu Domu in Polish, it’s become a much-loved staple of Wigilia. So much so, when Polsat pulled it from their schedule in 2010 they scandalized the country. After front page headlines declaring that ‘Polsat have killed Christmas’, the feelgood film was restored to the program line-up. It’s doubtful Polsat will ever make the same mistake again.
SHUTTERSTOCK
WIGILIA CHEAT SHEET
also exist, and these include the habit of leaving a spare seat round the dinner table. That’s specially reserved in case someone in need comes round. Meanwhile, symbolizing the arrival of Jesus in a stable, look under the tablecloth and you’ll most likely find a bundle of hay. And if you see any kids babbling at animals on the stroke of midnight, that’s due to the commonly-held belief that this is the moment when our four-legged friends can actually talk back.