Warsaw Insider February 2023 #318

Features:

Absolutely

Just brew-tiful – the 20 cafes everyone needs to know – p. 48

In history – priceless Ghetto pictures discovered in attic – p. 6

Reviews:

Happa to Mame – p. 37

Foodie Radar – p. 40

Niewinność – p. 42

Dziki Krolik: – p. 44

Hopito Chmielna – p. 46

DISCOVER

Pogodne – p. 65

What to do in February – p. 68

JANUARY IS USUALLY the city’s (and Insider’s) hangover month; a period in which we collectively shiver and hide from the world. Not this time around. Kicking the new year off with a backfiring bang, the removal of the scaffolding that had hitherto shielded the Museum of Modern Art from the public eye left the people of the capital blinking in disbelief. No, that wasn’t a bunker, we were told, but our brand new museum. Scandalizing the town in a way not seen since, well, any one of the city’s previous architectural bloopers, the backlash surrounding it is naturally our lead story. Also shoehorned into this issue, join us to explore the shattered remains of the nearby miniature park, before checking out the twenty Warsaw cafes you need to try before you die – and when you’re done, how about splurging on a night to remember in one of the more unique hotels around. As ever, hope you enjoy it, and see you next month.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief

Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art Director

Kevin Demaria

kdemaria@valkea.com

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Content Editor Krystyna Spark kspark@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager

Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

In Brief

PUBLIC

ART

Stories On The Walls

The latest mural from the canon of Tytus Brzozowski has cast a spotlight on one of Warsaw’s great inter-war characters, Stanisław Wojciechowski.

Found on Madalińskiego 6/8, and created using smog-eating, air-purifying paints, the mural was unveiled on the centenary of Wojciechowski assuming the Presidency following the assassination of Gabriel Narutowicz. Painted in Brzozowski’s surreal trademark style, the non-standard work sought to present the main chapters of the President’s life, as well as the addresses most commonly associated with him.

As such, fourteen places were picked to illustrate his lifepath, as well as the key moments that marked his public service.

“He was an extraordinary person with a very beautiful story,” says Brzozowski. “He was a man of great willpower and steadfast character; a conspirator and a super-agent smuggling weapons and printing machines into Poland; a strong leader defending the rule of law; and, finally, a committed lecturer.”

Beginning with his birthplace in Kalisz, the mural riffs on Wojciechowski’s time abroad by depicting the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben and Zurich’s Grossmuenster church, whilst boxes of TNT have been placed to remember his time as an activist and exile resisting Russian rule.

His election to office, meanwhile, is noted by the inclusion of the Royal Castle – painted white by Brozowski to reflect the colors it once sported during the inter-bellum. Other notable moments include thwarting an assassination attempt in Lviv in 1924, and his confrontation with Józef Piłsudski on Poniatowski Bridge during the infamous May Coup of 1926.

As for his later life, we find Wojciechowski’s stint as an academic lecturer recalled by Brzozowski’s renderings of the University of Life Sciences as well as the Warsaw School of Economics.

Speaking at the unveiling ceremony, the Deputy Mayor of Mkotów, Krzysztof Skolimowski, said: “The mural is non-standard and educational. I hope that it becomes a place people seek out because I think it teaches a great history lesson and brings the epoch closer.”

Welcome To Mordor

Commonly known as Mordor, a sub-section of Warsaw has now seen two of its streets christened Gandalfa and Tolkiena…

Originally heralded to go under the name of Pirytowa and Tytanowa, the newly-constructed streets were given names inspired by Lord of the Rings after locals swayed councilors to choose something a little more evocative than initially planned. Given the area’s wider moniker, Mordor, the choice of street names seemed a natural step to take.

Found in Służewiec, the Mordor handle that the district is now widely-known under as has entered common Warsaw lexicon and refers to the area directly in and around Domaniewska, Cybernetyki, Wołoska and Marynarska streets. Once teeming with industrial plants, these were

And Then There’s…

replaced in more recent years by a rich spread of office blocks. However, with approximately 100,000 workers commuting to this micro-district each day, it soon gained a reputation for its soul-crushing office monoculture – before long, employees had taken to calling the area Mordor, a cheeky allusion to their thankless work.

Curious as these names are, they join a long line of other Warsaw oddities seemingly named out-of-the-blue.

ul. Lennona

Named after the Beatle, find Lennona marking the border of Osiedle Jazdów. A quaint oasis of timber cabins, the Bohemian atmosphere of this tiny residential quarter made it the natural finish point for a commemoration to mark the first anniversary of John Lennon’s death. Attended by pot-smoking artists singing Give Peace A Chance, it was they that gave this previously unnamed street its nickname. Ten-years later, War-

saw’s street-naming panel voted to make it official.

ul. Kubusia Puchatka

What’s not to like about a street named after Winnie the Pooh – or, in Polish, Kubusia Puchatka. Named so in 1956, the title was awarded following a poll held among children by a local newspaper called Express Wieczorny. Winnie topped the vote and today a plaque depicting the bear holding hands with Piglet can be

found on the street.

ul. Tomcia Palucha

Awarded its name in 1979, Tom Thumb street is one of the great mysteries of Warsaw. Quite why it was named so appears to have alluded even the most ardent of Warsawophiles –from what we’ve found, it owes its title to residents that had demanded a name that would not be easily forgotten. You could say they got their wish.

AROUND US… A SEA OF FIRE

Shot by a firefighter called into service during the time, a priceless roll of negatives capturing the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising have been discovered in an attic...

MACIEK JAZWIECKI/POLIN

Handed to the POLIN Museum in January, the film will now form an integral part of a forthcoming exhibition that will mark the 80th anniversary of the doomed insurrection. Hailed by the museum’s archivists as “priceless”, the negatives contain 48 pictures in all, of which 33 show the Ghetto during its final days.

Taken by Zbigniew Leszek Grzywaczewski, a 23-year-old firefighter for the Warsaw Fire Brigade, the images were snapped in secret after his unit was sent to the Jewish quarter to prevent fires reaching the Aryan side of the city.

Prompted by rumors relating to the Ghetto’s liquidation, the starving Jews that had thus far survived rose in rebellion despite being hopelessly ill-equipped. Launching their resistance on April 19th, 1943, the insurgents armory numbered just two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles and 500 pistols. They did not, however, lack willpower. Armed also with homemade devices, the ragbag unit of fighters held off the full might of the Wehrmacht until May 16th.

Infuriated by this display of insubordination, the German response was swift with crack units often resorting to burning entire streets so as to flush out the rebels. To stop these blazes spreading over the Ghetto walls, firemen such as Grzywaczewski were pressganged into action by the occupying Nazis.

In one diary entry, Grzywaczewski wrote about the horrors he had witnessed: “the image of these people being dragged out of there [out of the bunkers] will stay with me for the rest of my life. Their faces […] with a deranged, absent look. […] figures staggering from hunger and dismay, filthy, ragged. Shot dead en masse; those still alive falling over the bodies of the ones who have already been annihilated.”

Grzywaczewski was called to the Ghetto several times between April 21st and May 15th, with researchers believing that he took his camera in a

bid to document the unfolding tragedy. Of the six photographs that have so far been made public, we see desperate scenes as soldiers herd women and children towards the Umschlagplatz (a transit point that carried Warsaw’s Jews to the death factory at Treblinka), a ghostly courtyard piled high with abandoned household items and thick clouds of smoke hanging threateningly over the once thriving heart of the Jewish world.

In another shocking image, we see German officers looking out towards the inferno as if casually observing a training exercise. Though often blurred and imperfect, the discovery of these images has been hailed sensational. “Prior to this,” said Professor Jacek Leociak of POLIN, “the only existing pictures we had seen of the Ghetto Uprising had been taken by Germans. These, on the other hand, show it through an entirely new perspective – through the eyes of a Pole.”

Grzywaczewski later partook in the Warsaw Uprising the following year, and despite being wounded he would resume his firefighting career before becoming an author. Passing away in 1993 in Gdańsk, his son, Maciej, uncovered the forgotten negatives whilst searching out boxes of family heirlooms stored in an attic – the film, he says, was in the last box he checked. Speaking at a press conference held in POLIN, he said: “one of the photos shows a Jewish family jumping from the window of a burning house. My father signed the photo with the words, ‘we were unable to help them’.” Referencing Russia’s savage brutalization of Ukraine, Maciej Grzywaczewski added: “Let’s not be indifferent to what is happening in Ukraine. Let’s help them, because we can.”

Currently displayed in limited form online, the rest of the rediscovered images will be presented at POLIN’s April exhibition titled, ‘Around Us A Sea of Fire. The Fate of Jewish Civilians During the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.’

Small Talk

Once regarded as one of Warsaw’s true cult attractions, the city’s Park Miniatur is today a pale and shattered shadow of what it once was.

casing the lost architectural gems that earned Warsaw its reputation as ‘the Paris of the East’, visitors were able to get up close to such treasures as the Saski Palace, the wooden Summer Theater that once stood in Saski Gardens, the Great Synagogue demolished after the Jewish Ghetto Uprising and, even, the city’s first shopping center.

With each building taking a team of historians, architects and 3D printings boffins months to create, models typically weighed 100 to 120 kilos and were built using the same material as Lego bricks. However, despite previously thrilling tens of thousands of visitors, the Park Miniatur – and its protection – repeatedly failed to earn the interest of City Hall and today it stands broken and smashed. Having appealed to the city for a secure and sheltered space, founders of the Park revealed that they have stopped pressing City Hall for help given their inertia.

Having switched locations six times in its short lifespan, its latest tenancy –on the corner of Świętokrzyska and Marszałkowska – has proved its undoing, with the stunning open air exhibit repeatedly falling foul of vandals. In fact, such is its current state, some press reports have dubbed it ‘the Park of shame’.

A remarkable labor of love, it presented a range of meticulously detailed 1:25 scale models of some of the city’s non-existent landmarks. Show-

“We no longer turn to the city because going to meetings with them for the sake of it just doesn’t make sense,” said Rafał Kunach, one of the park’s founders. A troubling indictment on the way some people in the city view culture, rumours persist that the buildings that have survived may be moved elsewhere in coming months and restored, but as things stand that could prove wishful thinking taking into account the money and hours needed to renovate this treasure.

Yet whilst the apparent demise of the Park Miniatur has been heart-breaking to witness, walking amid the shattered shells of its former star attractions has become, in itself, an interesting pursuit – built to celebrate Warsaw’s greatest fallen buildings, it is perhaps richly ironic that the park has suffered the same destructive fate as the structures it recalled. Offering an almost haunting sense of déjà vu, its battered models themselves reflect the stolen dreams of Poland’s capital.

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Offering an almost haunting sense of déjà vu, its battered models themselves reflect the stolen dreams of Poland’s capital

1620

Built on the behest of King Zygmunt III, the Moscow Chapel is erected on the Royal Route. Later, for over a century the plot features a Dominican cemetery and monastery.

Staszic Palace

1818

Scandal! A priest commits suicide at the altar during a service, prompting authorities to demolish the building following this devastating desecration.

1820-1823

A new building arises thanks to efforts and investments of Stanisław Staszic. The architect is Antonio Corazzi, a man that would later author the Grand Theatre and what is today the seat of City Hall.

1830

Eight-years in the making, a monument honoring the astronomer Nicolas Copernicus is placed in the front. Sculpted by Bertel Thorvaldsen, it references the new building’s role as the home of the Warsaw Society of Friends of Science.

1831

On May 1st, Wojciech Jastrzębowski, presents a draft constitution for a European Union to the Friends of Science. A visionary coalition aimed at preventing future war, a plaque unveiled in 2022 commemorates the idea.

1857

With the Friends of Science outlawed in the wake of the January Uprising a couple of decades before, Warsaw’s Russian’s rulers establish the Academy of Medical Science, the first higher educational institution sanctioned in Warsaw under their hegemony.

1862

Following another failed insurrection, the Russians close the Academy of Medical Science and replace it with a boarding school.

1892-1893

Ongoing Russification sees the palace reimagined in elaborate Byzantine-Ruthenian style and adorned with a gilded dome and ten bells. In 1899, two years after being visited by Tsar Nicholas II, it begins its official role as the Church of St. Tatiana of Rome.

Positioned at the point where Nowy Świat and Krakowskie Przedmieście converge, the Staszic Palace is one of Warsaw’s greatest storied gems…

1915-1918

During Germany’s brief WWI occupation of Warsaw, the former palace is transformed into an ‘entertainment house’ for officers –one that reputedly houses a casino, boarding rooms, brothel and other amusements.

1919-1926

Newly independent, Poland passes a resolution to restore the palace to its previous neo-Classical form. This plan is finally realized in 1926.

1942

During the occupation, the Germans place a plaque underneath Copernicus declaring him to be a German astronomer. In 1942, the sign is daringly removed by a scout called Aleks Dawidowski.

1944

The bloodlust: the palace is heavily damaged during the Warsaw Uprising and later gutted by German sappers. Total destruction is estimated at 60%.

1945

Spirited away to be smelted by the Nazis towards the end of the Warsaw Uprising the year before, the Copernicus statue is discovered in tact lying in the town of Nysa. Three years later, it will be reinstalled.

1953

Rebuilt as a matter of national urgency, the palace is reopened in 1953 and becomes the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences.

1981

After Martial Law is declared, 17 professors are arrested for subversive activities. Sit-in protests are organized in response, and within a month over 100 employees have returned their official party passes.

2023

The palace continues to flourish in its role as the heart of Polish science. According to more lurid accounts, its history is reflected by the despairing priest that is said to stalk the corridors late at night.

Is it a… Bunker?

With its scaffolding finally removed, the Museum of Modern Art has left the public gobsmacked…

Kept teasingly under wraps for several months, the future seat of the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw faced a fierce wave of criticism after its exterior was finally revealed in the middle of January. “I never thought I would miss the sight of the Palace of Culture,” wrote one person; others, meanwhile, have likened its blockish form to an overground bunker. “No, it’s not a cargo container,” quipped another Twitter user, “it’s a new museum.”

At a time when Poland’s public spaces have increasingly

come under scrutiny for their dehumanizing concrete excesses, the museum has been heralded in some quarters as setting a new benchmark in catastrophic ugliness. Designed by American architect Thomas Phifer, the white cube-like building was intended to slot seamlessly into its surroundings whilst also referencing the capital’s modernist architectural heritage.

Simple but monumental in its dimensions, the building has now sparked heated debate; according to its defenders, the striking structure will reabsorb

this previously empty plot back into the city’s fabric. The museum’s management, meanwhile, have also remained defiant. “In the design of the new headquarters of the Museum, we adopted elements of modernist architecture such as simplicity of materials and ergonomics whilst also looking to build a framework in which social life could thrive,” they say.

Continuing, they add: “the building will create conditions suited to individual contemplation while remaining open to the needs of a large number of visitors. It will also be entirely filled with art – aside from the exhibition galleries, the public areas, foyer and staircase will be decorated with artistic works.”

Not everyone, however, is convinced, and the building has already spawned a heap of mocking memes. Others, in the meantime, have urged patience, noting that this would not be the first time that Warsaw has been scandalized by architects or artists.

However, after the underwhelming debut of Plac Pięciu Rogów last summer (which itself is only now gradually finding appreciation), all eyes are now on the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw. With City Hall making significant noise over their ambitious plans to transform the city center, now more than ever their vision faces a stern test where it comes to public approval.

Yet for all the existing negativity, the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw has already almost subliminally fulfilled its duty to get the people talking. Set to welcome visitors later in the year, the capital’s next A-class attraction has underlined this city’s extraordinary capacity to shock and awe.

The People Have Spoken!

Hit or miss – we asked our Facebook crowd what they thought of the new museum only to be avalanched by priceless replies…

Paweł

“The Guggenheim is imaginative. The Louvre’s Abu Dhabi branch is imaginative. Heck, even the Tate Modern is an imaginative take on a factory building. Having a shoebox just doesn’t cut it.”

Alex

“In many ways, this is why I love Warsaw – it’s an architectural mess in terms of styles, sizes, shapes and form, but is that really such a bad thing? It’s definitely not boring to look at!”

Andrew

“It’s bold, distinctive and has clearly got people talking. Bravo to Warsaw for trying something different.”

Norbert

“Modern art is no longer art. They produce crap and call it art. We live in an idiocracy.”

Milida

“This looks like a run-of-the-mill American warehouse.”

Tom

“A soulless, cuboid – like every other building that passes for modern architecture. By contrast, take a look at the Natural History Museum in London. Our great, great grandfathers’ generation knew how to build beautifully, so why does ours insist on erecting a giant portacabin in the middle of our capital?”

Pablo

“There’s nothing controversial about this project – it’s got a beautiful, simple shape. Haters gonna’ hate!”

Ola

“It’s the ugliest thing I’ve seen in my ENTIRE life!”

Ewa

“It’s a very beautiful building and it will become an icon of Warsaw. The presence of the Palace of Culture forced something simple and understated - imagine Guggenheim’s Bilbao building in front of it!”

Mikael

“I can’t believe anyone actually agreed to build this monstrosity – how you can you not see that it does not fit and looks hilarious? I’d love to know how the decision process was handled…”

Cody

“Although I dislike modern art and architecture, at the end day this is a modern art museum and the building should have a modern aesthetic to reflect that.”

Maggie

“It should never have been put there – a park, trees and a social space would have been just fine. The way the project was handled has been a joke, like most things in Poland at the moment.”

Our Favorite Comment

Izabela

“The public often loves to hate new buildings. They are usually composed of innovative materials, take a new form, and ‘clash’ with their surroundings. However, after the dust settles they become admired and recognized for their imaginative style, putting the city on an architectural world map. This happened with the Eiffel Tower, Empire State Building, Guggenheim Museum, and even Louvre Pyramid, which was built in complete opposition to the Renaissance style of the historic palace. It seems that Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art is going through the same process.

Tom

“If you have to explain why a building is beautiful then it isn’t beautiful.”

Most people feel comfortable with what they already know and are afraid of the new and unknown. Simultaneously, most people forget that this new building is a museum of MODERN art, not a museum of social realism. In my opinion Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art is an excellent example of what we understand as modern – relating to the present times as opposed to the remote past.”

BEAUTY OR BEAST?

The Museum of Modern Art isn’t the only building or installation that’s divided the city. Join us as we run the rule over some of the more contentious…

Temple of Divine Providence

Rising above Miasteczko Wilanów, you don’t need a particularly high level of intelligence to understand why locals have nicknamed the Temple of Divine Providence ‘the lemon squeezer’ (Wyciskarka do Cytryn). Also sometimes dubbed ‘Poland’s first spaceship’, such is the horrifying impact of this humongous religious landmark that it was awarded the title of Poland’s worst building back in 2016.

Insider Verdict: get this – the idea for a Temple of Divine Providence was born in 1791. After all that time, this is what we got… Repeat after us: WTF.

The Rainbow

No landmark has scandalized modern Warsaw more than the artificial rainbow that once straddled Plac Zbawiciela. Composed of 22,300 artificial flowers, and topping out at a height of nine meters, Julita Wójcik’s work proved an immediate source of conflict. Set on fire on seven separate occasions – most famously during the 2013 Independence Day riots – it was finally dismantled in 2015. Still, not a year goes by without rumors swirling concerning its return.

Insider Verdict: perceived by conservatives as a symbol of deviancy, for others it embodied the fun-loving spirit of more liberal times. That its brief existence coincided with Zbawiciela’s hipster heyday was by no means coincidental. Staggering in its impact, it earns top marks for controversy alone.

The Palm Tree

Celebrating its twentieth anniversary this December just gone, Joanna Rajkowska’s installation was inspired by her desire to provide an artistic link bridging Warsaw’s Jewish past to modern day Israel – hence it’s official name, Greetings From Jerusalem Avenue. Reaching 15-meters in height, it instantly split the country. “It divided people dramatically,” Rajkowska tells the Insider. “I even heard about one family in Kielce that couldn’t finish their Christmas dinner because they were arguing about it.”

Insider Verdict: more than just becoming an embedded feature of the city, the artificial palm helped kickstart the city’s mania for creative public art. Where we’re concerned, it’s an absolute hit!

TVP Headquarters

For a whopping example of what not to do when designing a new office block, then make haste to Woronicza 17 to marvel in disbelief at the TVP HQ. Completed in 2009 at a staggering cost of PLN 190 million, it quickly found itself christened The Tower of Babel. A gargantuan glass vulgarity, others simply know it as the most monstrous block in Warsaw.

Insider Verdict: hated by many, it’s hard to defend this piece of architectural madness – at the same time, who wouldn’t love to see it transformed into a massive amusement park or playing the role of OCP’s headquarters in a Robocop movie. It’s definitely different, we’ll give it that.

Złota 44

When news first broke that ‘starchitect’ Daniel Liebskind would construct in Warsaw, a hush fell over the city – anticipation built yet further when the first renderings were revealed. Alas, the reality proved a little different from the slender, cosmic form we were originally promised. With construction delayed for so long due to the credit crunch, the disappointment was peaked on the final reveal with many expressing horrified surprise at the building’s strange cladding.

Insider Verdict: though at odds with the rest of the skyline, Europe’s tallest residential tower has done something unique, and in the process itself become something of an icon. With residents including Robert Lewandowski, this luxury skyscraper has given modern Warsaw an added sense of bling!

Novotel Centrum

Opened on January 24th, 1974, what was then the Forum Hotel was marketed as “the first Western style tower in the city.” Designed by Swedish architect Sten Samuelson, not everyone liked it, and its sandy-brown façade saw it quickly dubbed ‘the chocolate bar’ by unimpressed locals. Measuring in as the second tallest building in the country when it debuted, one critic even argued that it was Sweden’s revenge for their defeat at the The Battle of Częstochowa in 1656.

Insider Verdict: modernized this millennium, it’s new silvery skin has done wonders and it truly feels like a natural element on the capital’s skyline. Besides, ABBA enjoyed their stay here in 1976, and you can’t argue with that!

The Blue Tower

If Pl. Bankowy looks unsynchronized then the primary culprit is ‘the Blue Tower’. One hundred and twenty meters in height, construction began during the ’60s, though work was suspended once the bottom fell out of the Polish economy; in all, it took a staggering 26-years to finish before being officially opened in 1992 – and only then after a rabbi had lifted a curse. Formerly the site of Warsaw’s most famous synagogue, that was dynamited after the Germans quashed the Ghetto Uprising reputedly prompting a rabbi to cast a hex to ensure nothing else would ever occupy this plot. Curiously, one of the building’s adjoining glass blocks was supposedly designed to evoke the form of the destroyed house of worship.

Insider Verdict: looking top-heavy given its wider architectural context, it’s come to typify Warsaw’s clashing mix of styles. Add to that its history, and you have a building that merits a deeper look.

Break WarsawAway

With Valentine's lurking around the corner, there's no better time to treat yourself (and someone else) to a cheeky hotel stay in the city that we live in - from the completely unexpected to the cream-of-the-crop, join us for a look at some of the best options around...

TO ESCAPE

My Tree Home

Macierowe Bagno (Stara Miłosna), mytreehome.pl

PLN 600 per night

To some, My Tree Home is the very personification of the Scandinavian concept of Hygge. With a view that peers over the tree-line, features of this well-appointed treehouse include a three-meter panoramic window and an XL-sized bed hoisted up high. Yet for all its woodsy charm, there’s also a sensuality here, one that’s made it a favorite with courting couples. “I’d say we’re definitely mainly visited by newlyweds or those looking to propose,” says the owner, Karolina.

A project of passion, it was Karolina who built the place from scratch. Taking two years in all, her goal was to create a romantic, artistic retreat where nature would take a central role.

Astonishingly, given the 20-minute, Uber-friendly journey from downtown Warsaw, she’s achieved exactly that. Whether you’re snuggled under the sheets or toasting yourself besides the openair bonfire, the sounds and snuffles of the natural world are never far away: here, your neighbors are hawks, herons, moose, deer and free-roaming horses. Evoking

the feel of an off-grid escape, visit to unplug for the night and spend it with your soulmate.

Good to know: there are no screens or such silly things as wifi, so don’t even ask. Also, be warned: positioned seven-meters off the ground, the treehouse has been known to sway on Warsaw’s stormy nights!

Break Away Warsaw TO FEEL LIKE A STAR

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw

From PLN 1,300 per night

Completed in 1857 to the Neo-Renaissance design of architect Henryk Marconi, and subsequently revived under the Raffles banner four-years back, this sumptuous hotel comes steeped in stories –known for its epic pre-war balls, it was here that celebrities such as the avant garde painter Witkacy would gather. The Rolling Stones also stayed here, first in the 1960s and then later when the hotel was recharged as Raffles. More than a hotel, the Raffles Europejski is a piece of Polish heritage and as such emphasis was placed on expressing its artistic and cultural soul during the renovation process. The result is a collection of over 120 artworks, and a stunning design that channels the property’s history and tradition through a contemporary prism. A sum of many parts, visits all but demand a Warsaw Sling in the swish bar and some prolonged pampering in the spa.

TO SOAK UP THE HISTORY

Hotel Bristol

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44

From PLN 800

If there’s one hotel that everyone in Warsaw knows, it’s the Bristol. Ever since welcoming Emilia Finot – their first guest – back in 1901, the Bristol has set benchmark after benchmark. Hosting a long roll-call of stars and leaders ever since, those that have crossed the threshold include McCartney, Picasso, JFK, Loren, Gates and Thatcher. Following in their footsteps, you understand what the fuss is about. A gilded masterpiece, the Paderewski Suite remains much like it was when Ignacy Paderewski helped give birth to Polish democracy in this hotel. Lovingly refreshed in recent times, pay attention to the Gatsby-style Column Bar or drink world-class cocktails from the sublime Lane’s Gin Bar. Perfectly positioned for a chilly walk around Old Town, check also for their regular deals – for instance, February’s romance package that factors in such perks as champagne breakfast and late checkout.

TO RIDE WARSAW’S NEW WAVE

Hotel Verte

Miodowa 6/8, hotelverte.com

From PLN 760

Part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, find Warsaw’s latest luxury hotel inside the former Branicki and Szaniawski palaces. Rebuilt after the war on the basis of Canaletto’s paintings, this extraordinary space has an easy beauty to it: blending history with modernity, it’s a place that fires the imagination through its chic, design-forward elegance. Although a stone’s throw from both the old town and the grand theater, the chances are you won’t leave the door. Exploring this newbie is an enthralling experience, and doing so will take you to the glazed all-weather pavilion, the KUK restaurant with its s-shaped signature sofa, a fancy bar and a courtyard garden that will have you wishing for the onset of spring.

FOR PAMPERING

Hotel Warszawa

Plac Powstańców Warszawy 9, warszawa.hotel.com.pl

From PLN 780 per night

When Marcin Weinfeld designed the Warszawa in the 1930s, it didn’t just become the tallest building in Poland, but the second highest in the whole of Europe. Then housing luxury apartments, as well as the Polish branch of the Prudential insurance company, it played an iconic role during the Warsaw Uprising, refusing to collapse despite being pounded by German shells. Now, it’s causing a stir anew having been handed a second life under the Likus Group. Known their portfolio of design-forward heritage hotels, the group sought to strip the hotel back to its 30s aesthetics. Heavy on natural materials such as stone, marble, wood, copper, concrete and glass, the gorgeous design is amplified by the presence of a salt cave and a stunning underground pool. After retreat to the sixth floor for a starry views from their acclaimed Szóstka restaurant.

INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

BACK STORY

Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.

F&B

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centerpiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment hangout.

GOOD TO KNOW

Warsaw’s first ‘woonerf’ has turned what could have been an ordinary, boring road into a

living organism on which people and cyclists flow as one with the passing traffic. Lined with photographic exhibition panels, these have included an in-depth look at the area’s relationship with Coca Cola. And then, half-way in, you have one of the capital’s finest staircases –turned into a canvas, its steps have been used to create the city’s first ‘stair mural’.

WHAT WE LOVE

You can’t knock Browary’s ambition. More than just an entertainment hub, it feels more like a city within a city. Skillfully planned and deftly executed, you could survive here for a year and never feel bored. Moreover, there’s the underpinning mood: chic and affluent but equally easygoing. For that, it can’t be beat as meeting spot.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

BACK STORY

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building at intervals), it later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Deactivated in 2001, the vacated buildings briefly became the home of giant house martens and other mythical urban creatures, before being restored and relaunched in 2020. As smart as its new look is, you’re always touching distance from history.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.

GOOD TO KNOW

Elektrownia’s blended approach deserves to be called out. This includes an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions – that Anna Lewandowska has been tagged here should speak for its pedigree. On the retail front, EP tends to avoid the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent. Watch, too, for their regular organic markets and ‘slow’ design fairs.

WHY WE LOVE IT

Everyone agrees, Elektrownia Powiśle is a breathtaking work. From the outside, it’s a dazzle of billiard green lawns and spurting water fountains, all hemmed in by smart redbrick buildings trimmed with steel and glass. But inside is where it really gets going – cavernous in its size, and criss-crossed with vertiginous

walkways snaking overhead, it carries the dimensions and impact of a Romanesque cathedral. Historic leftovers abound (such as the blue cubbyhole once used by the plant’s director), as do whimsical pieces of art made from rescued girders. Ingeniously connecting the past with the present, exploring its many corners is fun in itself.

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

BACK STORY

Built as a market hall during Tsarist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish boxing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty authenticity and a lingering sense of history.

F&B

There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a farmers’ market whose gems include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers covering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without an expertly poured Guinness from The Shamrock, craft beer from San Escobar or Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Niewinność.

GOOD TO KNOW

Gwardii’s non-standard events have aided their mission to appeal to all: over the last year alone, that’s meant zero waste markets, boxing galas, dog fairs, poster sales, TEDx talks, ping pong tournaments, craft beer fests and a slew of national culinary days. Attracting young and old from all imaginable backgrounds and income brackets, these events have helped underscore Gwardii’s democratic nature: all are welcome, and all have some reason to visit.

WHY WE LOVE IT

The lockdown was a make or

break time for many in the F&B industry, but Gwardii seemed to emerge from the wreckage all the more stronger – at the peak of Covid, their market provided a glimpse of normalcy during paranoid times and acted to hold the community together. This feeling has continued. Uninten-

tionally perhaps, the symbiotic relationship that it enjoys with the vastly contrasting Hala Mirowska next door has helped this – managing to harmoniously co-exist, these two entities feed off each other to add a diverse variety to the area’s social fabric.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

BACK STORY

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was built with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. According to one story, as German troops approached the city in 1915, the decision was taken to pour the vodka into the streets so as to prevent their soldiers getting their hands on it; apocryphal as it might be, the move reportedly sparked a riotous free-for-all among the disbelieving and grateful locals. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and

loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser.

GOOD TO KNOW

Koneser could easily have become a self-segregated island of prosperity; instead, it’s been successfully absorbed into the neighborhood thanks, largely, to a busy program of events that have included slow fairs, ‘senior days’, food truck meets, book nights, concerts and history walks.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal

fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favorite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year).

WHY WE LOVE IT

In a continuance of the above, it’s this cultural aspect of Koneser that has installed it as a Warsaw stalwart. In addition to the above one-off events, visit for the world class Polish Vodka Museum or the Museum of Fantastic Art. Last year’s Banksy exhibition remains one of the most talked about exhibitions in recent memory. Culture vultures can imbibe more domestic talent by heading to the likes of the Art Sułek Space (a gallery owned by the same artist behind Praga’s iconic blue angel statuettes).

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

BACK STORY

Built between 1906 and 1908, from the outset Koszyki was designed to serve as a market hall. Nationalized after WWII, by the 1960s it was attracting over 3,000 shoppers per day. By the millennium, though, business had slowed with shoppers favoring new generation supermarkets over the grubby old school style offered by Koszyki. Acquired by Griffin Real Estate in 2012, it was under their watch that the main hall was rebuilt and the art nouveau wings restored. Original plans foresaw a retail project taking root, but this was abandoned in favor of what we see now. Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline.

F&B

Koszyki’s food hall checks all the boxes when it comes to comfort food; for burritos, you can’t go wrong ordering from the fist-bumping lads at Gringo, while for craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong. The biggest lines, though, they’re usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. But there’s more to Koszyki than just its food hall; for fancy modern Polish food in arty surrounds then Warszawski Sen is a winner. More often than not though, you’ll find us either propping up the Central Bar, sipping cocktails in The Upper Deck, or putting the finishing touches to a night out in the open-all-hours ĆMA

GOOD TO KNOW

Koszyki have a hard-earned reputation for higher brow events such as classical recitals

and author meet and greets. However, not all of their attractions are quite so traditional –2022 saw them dishing up a VR film about the Warsaw Uprising.

WHY WE LOVE IT

Opened in 2016, Hala Koszyki was the first of the hubs to launch and blazed the trail for others to follow. Considered the grande dame of all, this

reputation can be credited to more than just her age. To this day Koszyki remains a pioneer and often the default choice when planning a city center meet-up. Why? It’s vibe and central location are second-to-none. Where the former is concerned, the outdoor plaza remains one of Warsaw’s favorite summer check-ins while in other months the spectacular wrought iron interiors always have a buzz.

NORBLIN

FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

BACK STORY

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating.

Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores

particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, and the Tex Mex kings at Blue Cactus. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

GOOD TO KNOW

Remember when a kids zone meant little more than some tatty coloring books and board games with missing pieces? At Norblin, welcome to the future: functioning under the name of Smart Kids Planet, kids have nine areas to explore over a floorplan of 1,600 sq/m. Featuring themes such as the ‘smart shopping zone’, ‘apple orchard’, and ‘discovery zone’, these have been tailored to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

WHY WE LOVE IT

The lengths Norblin have gone to differentiate themselves have been extraordinary: for examples, refer to the luxury Kinogram cinema (Champagne vending machines, for Pete’s sake!) or the Art Box Experience – an immersive multimedia space that stole our hearts earlier in the year with their look at retro Warsaw. Then, you’ve got the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit). Mindful of their own heritage, the launch of a factory museum and guided walks (conducted by app or in person) can be cited as further proof of this project’s appreciation of local history.

MATCHA OF THE DAY

Nailing down a one-two Hulk colored punch, Happa to Mame has become all the rage

Originally beginning their journey with a stand in Poznań’s KontenerART complex, the popularity of Marcin Cieśluk’s and Shota Nakayama’s foamed-up matcha led to a café located in the city’s hip foodie district of Jeżyce. Now, destiny’s hand has led them to Warsaw, and to what many understand to be the city’s most enviable micro district – the heart of Hoża and Poznańska.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Translated literally to mean ‘beans and leaves’, these are primary ingredients on a menu that is short and sweet. But don’t bother looking for the name on anything so gaudy as a flashy neon or a glitzy sign, instead just look for the snaking queue that wraps its way around the corner of the street.

WHAT’S INSIDE

Formally a beauty salon in one of Warsaw’s eye-widening 90s construction, this cafe has an open, cool grey interior of concrete and wood. In the main room, find some tatami platforms for sitting low to the ground, and then a bar with stools jutting off the main serving counter for those less eager to pop a squat. Taken together, these two annexes feel like they represent two different ideas.

On one hand, you have some space age modernism where sit as if in a Graviton surrounded by street-facing windows –in front, two illuminated meshwire installations dangle from the ceiling as if they were clouds. Then, there’s the adjoining room. Entered through

Review

a curtain that looks like its for employees only, it surprises with its matcha-colored walls and Japanese adornments. More traditional, it vibes like a ceremonial tea room.

LEARN YOUR (MATCHA) LESSONS

Matcha (i.e. powdered, ground green tea leaves) is not made from just ordinary green tea leaves. Leaves for matcha are grown in the shade, thereby increasing the chlorophyll content resulting in a darker green

color and a more grassy taste. There are two kinds of matcha available in Japan and they are most distinguishable by their price. The more expensive is the purer, and that’s the one usually reserved for ceremonial tea drinking moments.

Less expensive is the version used in drinks or in confectionary but with most export matcha being organic, that naturally translates into the final price. So, a hat tip is due to Shota. Sourcing traditional non-organic matcha from

Translated literally to mean ‘beans and leaves’, these are primary ingredients on a menu that is short and sweet.

Japan (the Japanese choice due to its less bitter taste), find him serving match latte with a choice of four kinds of milk (including low-sugar pea milk), and two authentic Japanese superfoods: a drizzling of melted black sugar from Okinawa called kuromitsu, and sprinkled shavings of roasted soybean (kinoko) that give the mouth a subtle peanut flavor.

With chemical compounds that relieve the nerves and stress levels but never sap the strength, this is matcha the way

it’s meant to be. Of course, if that sounds too much, then a ceremonial matcha is available for the same price.

FOR FOOD

The menu is kept sweet to pair well with the matcha. Of the highlights, there’s a variety of daifuku mochi which are filled with seasonal delicacies and customer’s favorite fillings. There’s also dorayaki which are two small pancake-like patties stuffed with a filling of sweet azuki bean paste. And lastly,

and most instagrammable of all, dango: rice balls made from rice flour before being topped with your choice of roasted salt or a traditional sweet soy-based sauce called mitarashi.

GOOD TO KNOW

Keep an eye out on their FB and, in particular, their celebrations of Japanese holidays. Open only from Wednesday through till Sunday (from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.), sold-out desserts and waiting around are the norm if you get there late. ~ KD

“

FOODIE RADAR

What’s hot, what’s not and what’s happening around town…

IN STYLE

Not one, but two Warsaw hangouts found themselves named in Dezeen’s “Top 10 Bar & Restaurant Interiors 2022”. Competing against venues from the likes of London, Lyon, Antwerp and Seoul, the Polish capital was the only city to feature two entries on the hotlist with Va Bene Cichetti and Syrena Irena both lauded for their striking interiors. Designed by Noke Architects, the former has garnered praise ever since launching on account of its voluptuous Venetian-themed interiors, whilst the latter has won plaudits for helping modernize the traditional pierogi experience ever since launching.

WATCH OUT FOR…

Comings and goings have been numerous, with the year beginning with widely-acclaimed The Eatery relocating from the middle of nowhere to Koszykowa 49A bang in the city center. We’ll be there in the coming weeks, but that’s not the only place on our ever-growing hit list. Slotting into the space vacated by the Resort café-bar on Bielańska 1, Lychees Gastro Girls will be opening in March as a side-arm of Peaches Gastro Girls, whilst the same month also see the launch of Grace (Krucza 16/22), a cocktail bar that we’re told will be inspired by the inimitable aesthetic of the iconic Grace Jones. And that’s not all, completing Warsaw’s transition into spring, the next couple of months will witness the birth of Pizzaiolo 2.0 in the late-night pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat.

KNOCK, KNOCK

Uber Eats have released their annual Cravings Report, revealing Poland’s most sought-after delivery foods in 2022. Coming in clear first, the gathered data shows that Poles ordered 2.5 million cheeseburgers between January and November last year. Fried chicken featured second, with the rest of the Top Five spots occupied by pepperoni pizza, pad Thai and butter chicken.

Va Bene Cichetti

Syrena Irena

Feb. 10-12

5 years of community building

5 years of respecting history

5 years of helping

5 years of successful partnership with City Hall

Open Friday through Sunday

Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1

halagwardii.pl

TIME TO WINE DOWN

Warsaw’s latest wine bar departs from the norm…

After years of enduring the same sameness, Warsaw’s wine drinkers have a bar scene that has finally hit its stride. Dispensing with years of formality and anonymous warehouse-style offerings, the last few months have seen a rich crop of chic tasting rooms emerge as well as super funky wine spots such as Kontakt and Rascal – to call these top class would not be an exaggeration. Now, freshly opened in January, there’s one more place to add to the ever expanding list – and it’s already quite a hit.

ORIGINS

If Niewinność sounds familiar then so it bloody well should –present in Hala Gwardii since about Year Dot, it was this original joint that helped popularize wine with Warsaw’s younger drinkers. Their continued success, however, demanded something that looked a little less pop-up and a little more permanent. Hey presto, their Zgoda location was born as a result.

COORDINATES

It’s a strange street, Zgoda. Presenting a look that says ‘beauty and the beast’, its confounding mix of architectural styles is set against graffiti squiggled walls and dank, stained courtyards enriched by pools of piss. In many ways, it’s Warsaw in a nutshell – on one side sleek and glossy, and on the other cracked and grubby. Likewise, this inconsistency applies also to its F&B. Though better-known for its mainstream disappointments, Zgoda does have some highlights: the raucous Sham-

rock, for instance, as well as the Vietnamese vegan tastes found at La Vegana. For all that, the real reason to visit is to enjoy Niewinność.

THE PLACE

We love it. From the moment of entrance, find yourself beckoned inside a modern-looking space decked with individually accrued items – zaps of neon, framed poster art and splashes of greenery set on crisp white walls. Occupying three different areas, these include a main level featuring a sturdy communal table and, finally, a snug little side chamber with a few more seats and tables. Featuring plenty of personalized touches, it’s a place that looks and feels more like a super cool loft apartment – albeit one stocked with more wines than usual.

THE PEOPLE

When it comes to the vibe, it’s not just the interior that makes it what it is, but the people as well. Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many of Warsaw’s wine spots,

the welcome here has more in line with entering your favorite local pub. Both the owner and staff are happy to see you, and they’ll make you feel valued no matter what the level of your wine knowledge may be – and boy, that’s a good thing when all you know about wine is that, erm, you like it.

Easygoing to the max, their mood is dangerously contagious, and that seeps through to a carefree, young-ish crowd that, on our visit, encompassed all from immaculately dressed office bods, a girl gang on a night out and a scattering of dating couples.

DRINKS & NIBBLES

Sustenance is provided by way of flamm, a thin pizza-like food with German cultural roots, whilst drinks include a range of spirits and wines from such producers as New Zealand’s Esk Valley and Spain’s Angosto. Sold at highly accessible price points of around PLN 16 per glass, the affordability is equaled by an underlying quality that runs through Niewinność.

WHERE AM I?

Geographically set in the southernmost inhabited quarter of Wilanów, it would be no exaggeration to call Dziki Królik a destination restaurant – you’re closer to the fields and forests than you are to Warsaw’s skyscraping towers. But this, as it transpires, is the least non-standard thing about Dziki Królik. Set inside a modern bungalow

FANTASTACO!

Wilanów’s borderlands reveal a vegan to remember…

structure, walk in to find not a restaurant in the traditional sense of the word, but rather an attractive timber-encased room with around four tables to speak of.

This intimacy charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles from the London-based Pecksniff’s, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Han-

son’s Modern Rustic. Taken together, these individualistic add-ons lend a welcome sense of identity, with the good mood yet further enhanced by the soft glow cast from the Edison bulbs found strung between the hanging plants and potted shrubs.

AND WHAT IS IT?

Despite what the name may otherwise suggest, the Wild

Rabbit is not some meat-eating frenzy of primal pleasure, but instead an eatery that prides itself on its vegan foundations. Owned by head chef Magdalena Kurowicka, her cooking mixes familiar faves (tacos!) with more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love. And yes, we don’t say that lightly. You can think of love as being the guiding principle at the

Dziki Królik Rzeczypospolitej 2A, fb.com/dzikikrolikrestaurant

Dziki Królik. Expressed not just via the food, you can tell in an instant that the whole team here enjoy everything that they do. Confined in such close quarters with them, it’s impossible not to be infected by their optimism and joy.

WHAT THEY SAY

Clear in their goals, the Królik crew say that their venture was born out of their love of animals, nature and rich, nutritious flavors. “We wanted to create a space which would meet the needs of the ever-growing community of socially aware consumers, their health, animal rights and, of course, climate change. Furthermore, we wanted to prove to everyone that vegan good could taste just as brilliantly as the original culinary classics it was based on.”

WHAT OTHERS SAY

Dziki Królik’s name flashed globally over the summer when HappyCow, the planet’s No. 1 vegan platform, named it as one of Warsaw’s top restaurants in their annual rankings of the world’s most vegan-friendly cities (Warsaw, if you don’t know, polled ninth overall). This, however, was merely indicative of the buzz that this restaurant has spawned. Whether on Google or Facebook, not a single one of Dziki Królik’s reviews falls below five star, with sample write-ups describing it as “mind-blowing”, “just wow”, and “the best vegan food ever”.

WHAT WE SAY

The plaudits are well-deserved. It takes about six seconds to memorize the menu, but despite

it’s modest size it hits just about every high point that your tastebuds might know (plus a few they possibly don’t). From the comfort food perspective, the tacos are out-of-this world, and come in combos such as Philly cheese featuring jalapeno and vegan cheddar, thin strips of grilled plant steak, pico de gallo and pinches of cilantro. Lovingly tossed inside soft, floury tortillas –themselves pressed on-site – you quickly understand why people happily cross town to eat at Dziki Królik. When it comes to handheld goodness, not one place in Warsaw does it any better.

But there’s more to Dziki Królik than the simple stuff alone. Using soy meat, the bourguignon is one of the primary sellers, though we can also vouch for the scallops. Served in a rich white wine sauce abetted by chili, saffron, lime and three types of seaweed, the role of the scallops comes played by grilled Eryngii mushrooms that combine with the other elements to sing in a harmony of flavor. In a city full of frequently outstanding vegan options, this sets a new benchmark that’s unfair on the competition.

GOOD TO KNOW

We may have missed one or two, but we counted 12 seats in all. With people coming from far and wide to visit, ring ahead to reserve a table. Note, also, their opening hours. Cooking only on Fridays through to Sundays, at all other times find the staff engaged in the production of Dziki Królik-branded goodies such as 100% vegan steaks – peruse the available stock in the small fridge by the entrance.

CRAFT REVOLUTIONARIES

Devoted to smashing norms, join us for a look at the Hopito Brewery’s newest Warsaw pub…

Hopito Chmielna Chmielna 24, fb.com/hopitochmielna

These are testing times for the craft beer industry, with the planet’s spiraling costs arguably impacting this niche market more than any other category in the F&B industry – and if you want proof, then just take a look at the number of craft beer bars that have vanished since those first days of Covid.

But it hasn’t all been boomto-bust, and as startling as the current economic climate may be, some breweries have seized the opportunity to solidify their presence on the market – and you can include Hopito in that number.

THE BREWERY

For maximum shock value tastes, look no further than this mob. They brew the classics with uncompromising competence, but it’s their experimental line that really fires the imagination. Established in 2018, this brewery quickly gained a reputation for wildly fun beers such as Grizzly (hazelnut and Brazilian coffee imperial pastry stout) and the Jungle Smoothie mango IPA. Paired with labels doodled by Poland’s top street artists, it’s little wonder that it’s this brand that has become the go-to option for the country’s new generation of craft beer drinkers.

BRICKS & MORTAR

How better to showcase all your new beers than by opening a pub? That’s what Hopito did in 2020, and straight away it stole the hearts of a Gen Z crowd with its skater boy vibe, mango pizzas and craft beer slushies. Targeting a younger crowd than

that found in the nearby craft refuges of Nowogrodzka, it was a place that caught the zeitgeist to become one of Warsaw’s best piss-ups. Thriving at a time when other bars struggled to keep their head above the water, Hopito’s fresh outlook helped keep it packed during the craft scene’s darkest hour – so much so, that a second outpost was needed to satisfy demand.

LOCATION, LOCATION

Making its debut in mid-January, Hopito’s second Warsaw venture is in some ways similar, in other ways different. For sure, there could have been no better location that the one they chose. Mirroring the brand’s radical image, Chmielna has to be one of the most controversial throughfares in Warsaw: symbolic to many of the whole ‘death of the high street’ crisis, for significant stretches much of it is a littered, junky mess. But there’s also spirit here, something underlined by the number of young drinkers that can be seen teeming down the street often shrieking into the night.

THE PLACE

As much as we like their daddy joint, there’s something about it that feels a little in-yer-face. Often loud, swarmed and overly bright, you don’t need nine beers to feel the onset of a migraine. Their second space, therefore, offers welcome respite. Bathed in shadows, it feels a little more grown-up in its target. Though similarly decorated with Hopito’s trademark street art squiggles, there’s a high degree comfort on account of their velvety

booths. Less open-plan the original, likewise the number of little seating zones minimizes the noise – sitting here, you can actually here yourself communicating with the people that you’re with. Featuring gold trim, neon lighting and brick finishes, it’s fashionable and young yet also user-friendly.

FOOD & DRINK

When it comes to burgers, Warsaw jumped that shark about ten years ago. Even so, a good burger is a good burger, and in Hopito it’s very good indeed. Averaging at about PLN 40, they’re by no means cheap, but the quality for these stacked pieces of greatness speaks far louder than the price tag. As for beers, there’s 19 taps to pick from, with Hopito’s own brews contributing to around half the line-up – to open our account, we went for the Mixtape, a strawberry-pear-cherry sour with a suitably sweet, happy tang. Other non-conformists slurps followed, with perhaps the weirdest being Kind of Magic, an Imperial Pastry Sour Ale with peach, guava, banana, lime and coconut.

But it’s not just radicalized drinkers that Hopito cater towards, and more normal pints can also be easily found, among them, Czech classics from brewers such as Primator and Rohozec. That such diversity exists deserves applause, but then so too does this pub as a whole. For too long Warsaw’s craft scene has centered itself around Nowogrodzka – now, with Pinta and Hoppiness also just a short walk away, Chmielna can provide an alternative craft crawl that’s every bit as good.

20 CAFES TO TRY BEFORE YOU DIE –AND WHY!

With the Warsaw Coffee Festival occurring on the first weekend of Feb, join us for a look at the twenty cafés that have become representative of the city’s diverse coffee scene – from the old to the new, via the celebs and unknowns, we bring you our own curated choice of the ones you need to know…

working), Typika’s floor-to-ceiling windows bathe this fashionably stark, split-level space in light no matter the season. Sparingly decorated, the blonde wood furnishings (check the blobshaped table!) and neon deer further emphasize the natural, refreshing feel.

For A Neighborhood Buzz

Dobra Materia

Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and make for an easy lounging experience. Co-owners Marta and Andrzej have demonstrated a real devotion to detail, with their vegan cakes, non-alc. mulled wines, and cupping sessions all conspiring to make this café one of the secret treasures of Muranów.

For A Working Afternoon

Po Drodze

Bagatela 11

Set inside a renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, this café is decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style: concrete colors, raw timber, and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters. Slouching on sofas or gathered around the oval central

table, a rich smorgasbord of Warsaw characters await, usually wearing headphones and tapping into laptops. In this air of calm, work becomes a pleasure.

For Natural Light Typika

Kolejowa 47

Espousing the Japandi style (an amalgam of Japanese and Scandinavian should your brain not be

For Vinyl Afternoons

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee

Elsterska 10

Half-submerged below street level, this little café is home to a lovingly curated smattering of albums displayed in the first room – Sonic Youth, John Coltrane, Gorillaz, Bjork, Nirvana, etc. Once you’ve made your purchase, retreat to the retro-fitted, lounge-like space in the back to sip what’s known as the best specialty coffee in the whole of Saska Kępa.

Fat White Tonka

For Desserts

Tonka

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent, but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of seasonal cakes and pastries. Actually, these are our fave desserts in town!

For People Watching

Ministerstwo Kawy

Marszałkowska 27/35

After 12-years of public service, it would be fair to call the Ministry a bona fide legend. Looking like a café should (extendable lamps, stripped wooden floors, and clean white colors), the huge

ground floor windows make it impossible to sip down on your coffee without first losing yourself in daydreams whilst gazing out at the people of Warsaw rushing back and forth.

For Something Micro

Moko

Malczewskiego 6

Looking a charmingly rudimentary from the outside (a wooden bench, wobbly ashtray and plastic crates), step through a battered door plastered with stickers to be instantly seduced by a tiny locale with 1930s floor tiles and no shortage of collectible junk: Polaroids, postcards, books and mags. Polish roasteries are well represented, and other plus points go to the succinct choice of cakes, craft beers, kombuchas and suchlike. Random fact: occultist and astrologist Błażej Włodarz once lived at this addy!

For Retro Hip

Relaks

Puławska 48

Any Coffee Hall of Fame just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels, vintage armchairs and retro film and theater posters from the heyday of the so-called ‘Polish school of poster’, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in Mokotów’s DNA. Being here, you understand why.

For Something Wacky

Fat White Andersa 6

Attached to one of the hippest and most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of the adjoining cafe include rocking coffee, the nicest staff you could ever imagine and an almost demented collection of toy figurines (from Simpson models and Marvel heroes to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart.

For Old Meets New

Trzy Kruki

Pl. Hallera 8

Once a drab and soulless square leftover from the Communist years, Plac Hallera has come a long way in a short space of time. In part, the reinvention can be credited to Trzy Kruki, a vibrant café whose outsized dimensions have seen the stern

Dobre Materia

original pillars and sky-high ceilings softened by orb-like lamps and leafy succulents. Minimalistic in its design, here the atmosphere of the People’s Republic clashes head-on with the creative, liberal mindset that defines modern Warsaw.

For Bagels

Serso

Szanajcy 16

For reasons that mystify, Warsaw has never really managed to get the bagel right – at least, not until the 2020 opening of Serso. The bad news? To find this little heaven, you need to head from the beaten track. Located in an ascetic space inside a Socialist Realist block, the bagel combos veer from classic to creative and twin well with their coffee. Early closing hours attest to the popularity they have gained.

For Home Needs

Labuna

Płocka 22A

At Labuna passion and knowledge combine to make for a rather special ‘coffee showroom’ stocking all that’s required to transform your living space into a private little café. Retailing the latest gadgets, gizmos, grinders and contraptions, the wide range of single origin coffees is also exhaustive.

For A Family Affair

El Cafetero

Marszałkowska 27/35

A father and son operation, this cult roastery now has a café

to speak of (run by Milena, the daughter). Specializing – but not limited to – the coffees of Africa, this intimate café comes with a super-hip vibe and a wall plastered with Polaroids. Snuck discreetly behind Pl. Zbawiciela’s ginormous church, consider it a gentle reminder of the area’s cult reputation among those that fall between Generations X and Z.

For Warsaw’s All-Rounder

Coffeedesk

Tamka 2 / Wilcza 42 / Próżna 7 Ok, so there’s three locations, but being a chain should not count against Coffeedesk. Each touting their own individual style, it’s Próżna that’s become our fave, largely down to the cobbled pre-war street it finds itself perched on. All three, however, excel when it comes to delivering consistent quality. Theirs is a benchmark that many others pursue.

Błysk

For Seasonal Inspirations

Cophi

Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion

Trzy Kruki

project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale.

For The Original Pioneer

Filtry Dobra Kawa

Niemcewicza 3

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – for the city’s coffee afficionados (nay, the country’s!) this is a genuine place of pilgrimage.

For A Literary Twist

Czytelnia 3.0

Kasprowicza 52

Third time lucky? Roaming around Bielany these past few years, Czytelnia’s third location in recent times will hopefully prove to be the last move they ever have to make. Striking in the austerity of its design, the look

is softened by a book shelf of coffee table titles, and a coffee offer that has sought to break boundaries – among other things, head here for origami drip sips or coffee from a 3Temp Hipster machine.

For The Energy

Błysk

Słowackiego 22

Served over a veneered table rescued from the PRL period, Błysk’s tight confines generate a natural air of familiarity that’s as addictive as the coffee. Often standing room only, the buzz and hubbub owes itself not just to the delicious espresso shots, but also the homemade cookies and dog-loving owners that will spoil your pet. Even the ceramics (AOOMI should you ask) are absolutely gorge. Being here, it’s the equivalent of discovering a secret chakra point.

For The Incredible Dog!

Paręosób

Tarczyńska 12

Fact: a fantastic café needs a

fantastic dog, and at Paręosób that’s just what you’ll find. The adorable black Labrador aside, venture to this off-center locale to soak up its neighborly vibes over consistently great coffee. Once home to tailor’s store, the upended mannequin legs are, presumably, a nod to the heritage of the address.

For The Greater Good Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. And it’s true, when the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Although famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach to quality, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes, community actions and zero waste philosophy. You don’t just feel good being here, you’re doing good as well.

For Something World Class Forum

Elektoralna 11

Forum is the café that has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, friendly dogs nuzzling around (call him Apollo), and a devoted client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get.

Proudly marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, the individual accolades that have been amassed by the owners and baristas say everything there is to know.

Paręosób

Bars & Nightlife

From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…

has helped create a friendly but rowdy community of drinkers that hail from Poland’s eastern borders. Craft beers are present, but so too are more standard lager. That said, as the night draws in, don’t be surprised to find yourself swapping them for shots whilst all hell breaks loose.

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

CHMURY / HYDROZAGADKA

11 Listopada 22

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a wellspaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!

BAR PACYFIK

Hoża 61

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you

think you’re Superman.

BEER STATION CENTRUM

Lwowska 17

When temperatures nosedive, who doesn’t love a subterranean dive buried down a narrow set of stairs. Looking almost cave-like, there’s a spirit here that puts you instantly at ease. Run by a team of Belarussian exiles (Lukashenko Out!), the welcome from the owners is warm and sincere, and their presence

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.

FOTON

Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steelframed irrigational contraptions.

HAVANA

Słowackiego 16/18

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers

up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters.

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Zwycięzców 49

An offbeat locale inside a recharged 1950s pavilion, find Towarzyska crowned with a tilting neon sign. Offering a fridge full of craft beer, competent cocktails, homemade lemonades and other alternative-minded drinks, it’s the best late night in Saka Kępa – true, it’s just about the only one, but that’s beside the point.

LEGENDS

Emilii Plater 25

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.

NINE’S

Haberbuscha i Schielego 6 (Browary Warszawskie)

Owned by Robert Lewandowski, and named Nine’s in honor of the number he’s worn ever since starting his career at Znicz Pruszkow, this four-floor project has become Warsaw’s sports bar of choice. Filled with memorabilia (e.g. the boots Lewy wore when he broke the Bundesliga scoring record), features of this mega-pub include goal nets to act as petitions between seating booths, bar stools redolent of the plastic seats seen in stadiums,

and tables embossed with pitch markings and other such frills. And on the top floor, a large screen facing onto seating that mimics the tribunes found in football grounds.

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.

PIANO BAR

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Norblin’s Piano Bar works all-year round, but in winter its sense of easy prosperity provides a glint of optimism when skies are bleak. Dazzling with its 12-foot chandelier, the Gatsby vibe is given added oomph by a design that makes use of chessboard floors and wisely-chosen extras. The program of concerts elevate the weekend atmosphere with funks and blues jams something of a forte.

RITUAL

Mazowiecka 12

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

THE SHAMROCK

Zgoda 5

The Shamrock is little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign. But the dearth of

aesthetic thrills is compensated via its atmosphere. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis and his family behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

WOREK KOŚCI

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal.

WOZOWNIA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the courtyard. As for drinks, there’s some classic cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-year-old carriage house at the end. Warning: cards only!

W OPARACH W ABSURDU

Ząbkowska 6

Regional and craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience you’ll need to order a tray of vodkas before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar, and just exploring this musty space is an adventure in itself. Emitting the kind of alternative Boho spirit more frequently found in artsy places like Kraków, delve further still to uncover a mouse hole packed with excitable regulars.

Wine & Cocktails

Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…

Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for comparisons to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.

EL KOKTEL

Wojciecha Górskiego 9

Such is the standard, it’s impossible to call out Warsaw’s best cocktail bar, but somewhere towards the top invariably stands the intimate El Koktel. Starlit with Edison bulbs, and touting a palm-sized mezzanine over which you can peer at the bar, the rich midnight colors of El Koktel are paired with a sublime drinks offer that takes you down almost impossible twists and turns.

NOLA

Wilcza 43

Back Room

Koszykowa 49A

Opened at a time when Warsaw was going through its speakeasy phase, Back Room owes its continued success to more than just its jazzy, Prohibition era vibe. True, its decadent interior doesn’t half cast a spell with its plush fabrics, muted lighting and flickering fireplace, but it’s the drinks that have the final word. Using pedigree ingredients to maximum effect, this upmarket venue is unimpeachable in winter.

AURA

Hoża 27

Finding a smaller bar would probably require a magnifying glass; tiny as it is, Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging –promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bourbons.

CHARLIE & CHARLIE

KINOTEKA

Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1

Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.

PALOMA INN

Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails like the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water).

RASCAL BAR

Moliera 6

One of the year’s hottest openings, Rascal is reputedly Europe’s largest bar specializing in natural wines. Looking stripped down to maximize

the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers that have made this their domain.

REGINABAR

Koszykowa 1

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, a ‘Girls on Top’ menu featuring drinks such as Baby One More Time and Wannabe. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde – for a more subtle style, though shorter hours, check their younger little sister in the Mysia 3 department store.

SAKEBAR BY NOBU

Wilcza 73

Filled with light during the day, come dusk the curtains sweep shut to close guests off from the outside world. Sensual fragrances waft around, complementing a luxury menu touting bottles of craft sake that peak at PLN 3,000. Fixed by immaculate staff, cocktails are also prominent and are seasonally inspired.

SUPERFLY

Zajęcza 1A

Bathed in the soft light of the 70s style vintage lamps scattered about, the tone is set out front by the wacky board signboard that likens switching to natural wine as “travelling from black and white to intense psychedelic”. As fun as this trip in time is, the wines are of the cutting edge and are ably supported by the cooking of co-owner Oleg.

VA BENE CICCHETTI

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these number six interpretations of negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks. The speed with which they’re fixed belie the quality at play.

VHS BAR

Poznańska 7

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, well that’s so fantastic that it was deemed worthy of its own individual prize in our Best of Warsaw issue!

TIMELESS COCKTAILS

ZAREMBA CAFÉ

Nowogrodzka 15

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto an interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with craft ingredients resulting in drinks like the Hemingway (Maraschino, house-made clarified grapefruit juice, coconut sugar and Zaremba’s own rum blend).

Feeling Crafty!

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below are some of our faves, and you’ll find more in our Winter Warmer section…

walls, spirally staircase and pinball machines, find 15 taps keeping guests amused.

CZEŚĆ

Grzybowska 2

Compact and box-like, Cześć have transitioned to become one of the cornerstones of Warsaw’s craft scene. Flying in the face of fads and fashions, it’s a bar that feels honest and comfortable in its own skin. Looking pleasantly worn-in after nearly nine-years of service the rotation of beers is brilliantly balanced between new finds and traditional top-sellers from the canon of Artezan, Pinta and other A-class Polish breweries.

DRUGIE DNO

Nowogrodzka 4

Replicating the look of a disused power station, the Double D is a place of rugged brickwork, steel girders, vintage voltage meters and, get this, clanky toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Set over three floors, the 14 craft taps are largely committed to the wild tastes of modern Poland.

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Delayed by that never-ending lockdown (good riddance!), Pinta’s flagship Warsaw bar didn’t have the best start in life. That hasn’t stopped it from growing to become one of the standout bars the capital can offer: bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-colored Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Andersa 23

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s

sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.

CUDA NA KIJU

Nowy Świat 6/12

Opened in 2013, Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar looks just as edgy as ever slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. In fact, with so many youthful bars now neighbouring it, some would say it’s never enjoyed greater popularity. Notable for its glass

JABEERWOCKY

Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets.

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Nowogrodzka 25

One of Warsaw’s oldest craft bars excels when in terms of atmosphere. Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. But whilst the window-side front part is the most popular, in winter make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt.

Vegan Scene

Reflecting Warsaw’s dynamic, modern spirit, the city is officially ranked by the HappyCow portal as the ninth most vegan friendly cities on the planet – we need a telephone book to list all the worthwhile restaurants, so instead make do with a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

Yatta Ramen BBQ

Nowolipki 15

Filled with cartoon-like illustrative art and generous slashes of neon, Yatta are the latest Japanese venture to try their hand in this area. Highly competent in their execution, the busy, youthful vibe reflects the mood, philosophy and quality of the food. Heaped with pickles, spring onions and squirts of chili mayo the Soboro fries are essential. Given their name, the ramen is of course the main reason to visit, but do also scope out their ribs and chicken skewers. There’s something good happening here, and it’s not just the people of Muranów that know it!

BOCA BOCA

Mikołaja Kopernika 25

Anchored by a geometric mural that declares ‘Guilty Pleasure’ in glowing pink letters, this pocket-sized locale exudes a sense of fun. Written up on the blackboard, the menu casts it net over the biggest comfort foods known to man, and these include empanada – small, tasty pleasures with a puff pastry shell holding the goodness together inside. And there’s the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots, onions and red

cabbage. But the undisputed star? Behold their chimichanga!

EDAMAME

Wilcza 11

of all of Warsaw’s vegan options.

LA VEGANA

Zgoda 4

The menu is a bamboozling work of Byzantine complexity, but think of that as a charming quirk – as it turns out, it contains treasures galore. Alive with fragrant, fresh flavors, the nem rolls, tofu bulgogi and yuba cha (fried tofu skin) all come recommended, as does the house kimchi: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage. The pho, meanwhile, completes your plunge into gentle happiness.

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Mokotowska 58

Cooped up during lockdown, flat mates Monika Mazurek and Klaudia Górak began scouring the web for exotic recipes and veganizing what they found. Sharing their creations with friends, the positive feedback led them to open Peaches, a place with a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors. Substituting meat with Portobellos, their tacos are as authentic as they come, while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

UKI GREEN

Koszykowa 49A

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Finlandzka 12

VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks. Also in Muranów (Jana Pawła II 52/54) and Mokotów (Kazimierzowska 43).

Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

ANONS DO DZIELNI

Madalińskiego 7

This charming brick-lined recess has a magical intimacy primed to cheer you up in the miserable months, and a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity. The cooking here sings of care and freshness, and it becomes a pleasure to pick your way through a seasonal menu of homespun tastes. The beef cheeks are exceptional, but we’ve also taken great joy in balls of black pudding with panko and apple sauce – this is the gastro equivalent of a hug between friends.

THE FARM

Mokotowska 8

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.

PATELNIA PATERA

Wilcza 29A

Warm and homely with its woodsy finishes and empty pans hanging

from the walls, Patelnia Patera deserve credit for creating the most incredible schabowy we’ve yet to taste: this flattened portion of pork is monstrous in size and marinated overnight in buttermilk ensuring that the meat stays moist and tender when fried. Coated in challah breadcrumbs mixed with dried podgrzybki, the flavors are electrifying.

POLANA SMAKÓW

E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

SYTY CHMIEL

Marszałkowska 10/16

Some know Syty Chmiel as a craft multitap, but the truth is it’s also so much more. Better-known as Pan Tasak, co-owner Wit Szychowski has devised a menu that champions Poland’s rural greatness, with star cameos including blood sausage pancakes with caramelized apples. Hearty yet surprisingly sophisticated in its presentation and tastes, this is the kind of food befitting of the sound of clinking glasses.

ŹRÓDŁO

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menuwise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for the exquisite. For us, the pierogi with mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese remain a favorite memory.

Best Of… Europe

Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw…

Le Braci

Górnośląska 24

You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.

BIBENDA

Nowogrodzka 10

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the now meat-free menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers: recently,

we’ve enjoyed roasted pumpkin with sheep’s milk feta, goat yogurt, and tomato fenugreek sauce.

BUTCHERY & WINE

Żurawia 22

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a

steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

KLONN

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavors are exceptional and are a fantasy of skill.

LA LUCE

Poznańska 37

Touting a high end interior of raw brick, white tablecloths, heirloom pieces and vintage pictures of Italian entertainers, La Luce unfurls in a series of chambers that soothe the soul; this look is in character with a menu that presents sophisticated Italian dishes, own-made black pasta, premium seafood, house focaccia and an outstanding Black Angus striploin. The sophisticated negronis crown this pleasure well.

MIĘSNY

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the greatest informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

POLLYPIZZA NEOPOLITAN

Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

Best Of The… Exotic

For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day.

The happening, cosmopolitan vibe is reflected by a sublime cocktail offers that mixes South American and Japanese influences.

DELHI 6

Jana Pawła 41A

Tight, narrow and sparingly decorated with pictures of urban Indian life, the non-standard menu includes curry rolls wrapped in delicious parathas, crispy fried puffs and delicious tawas. Easily our favorite budget-end discovery of 2022, the atmosphere is enhanced by the Bollywood beats and high headcount of Indian food couriers – but they’re not here to collect food for delivery, they’re here on their breaktime to eat it themselves. If that doesn’t reveal the kind of place this is, then nothing will.

INDIA GATE

Al. Jerozolimskie 87

Ahaan

Unii Lubelskiej 1

Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. Breathing new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic roundabouts, Ahaan will wok your world!

BLUE CACTUS

Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin

Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution.

Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already

vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas.

CEVICHE BAR

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. However, the main menu has also been extended to include such hits as beef tenderloin and grilled dorado.

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese.

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Koszykowa 1

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French

background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers.

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family.

LA SIRENA

Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.

PAŃSKA 85

Pańska 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served

table-side, is the highlight.

SENOR LUCAS

Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

SHUK

Grójecka 127

For uncompromisingly authentic Middle Eastern tastes with a vegan spin then Ochota holds a real treasure to discover. Specializing in mezze plates, pide breads and bowls of shakshuka, Shuk realigns your mojo in a way few places can. Something of a veteran, their consistency and longevity is to be admired.

SPICE & YOU

Jana Pawła II 65

Majoring in the tastes of South Vietnam, Spice & You makes up for its geographical shortcomings (location: a dreary, commie housing block in Muranów), with a welcoming interior composed of colorful silk lanterns. Accruing a steady stream of repeat customers, the faithful return for the bún bò, an aromatic broth with boiled beef, spring onions, coriander, rice noodles and fresh herbs and veg.

UKI UKI

Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

Fine Dining & Author’s Cuisine

When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…

to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moon-shaped mirrors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.

MUZEALNA

Jerozolimskie 3

Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington. What lies in store this December is guesswork, but you can bet it will hit the spot.

NOLITA

Wilcza 46

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim. All of a sudden, you don’t mind so much that the shaded courtyard terrace is closed for the season.

DYLETANCI

Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit

of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

HUB.PRAGA

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title in our Best of Warsaw issue last month. And wow, this newbie is also one

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, our October visit peaked with a razor thin cuts of venison loin served in the style of a mille-feuille, as well as a star turn by a grilled octopus coated with wasabi mayo and served with a surprising, adventurous hit of chili with the accompanying creamy potato.

NUTA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that

Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Powstańców Warszawy 9

(Hotel Warszawa)

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20

Rozbrat 20

This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

Poznańska 15

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is

a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango.

TUNA

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic. Specializing in ‘doing the unexpected’ with fish, chef and co-owner Martin Gimenez Castro has created an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. Tuna succeeds in reimagining everything you thought you knew about eating fish..

VALENTINE'S HIGHLIGHT Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. At the start of the year, this was one of two resaurants (the other being Nolita) ranked by La Liste in the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

Ministerstwo Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego

An Ochota apartment hides a world of rare, rescued finds…

Second-hand does not have to mean second best, and that’s abundantly clear in Pogodne, a place that could vie for the title of Warsaw’s best-kept secret were it not for the fact that the secret first escaped when they opened two-years back.

Extraordinary in every aspect, just reaching it is an adventure. Found in a modernist era residential block on a sedate side street in Old Ochota, huff your way to the top floor before being ushered inside to view the treasures that lie within. Creaking over prewar parquet floors, an eclectic world awaits, one filled with re-loved finds accrued by the owner, Maria.

Rummaging is a joy, and doing such – occasionally over a coffee – will reveal a rich array of random finds: 1960s Polish fashion mags; a Charles & Di wedding mug; porcelain pets; and Moomin lamps. Amid those, sift, thumb and admire the commemorative plates from Poland’s PRL period, yellowing books, antique Russkie cameras or strings of jewels that scream “Gatsby theme night”.

Often classically flamboyant, the garments and shoes that fill this haven of clutter are the very definition of vintage couture – from shiny, almost fetishistic macs to elegant cocktail dresses via Carnaby Street-style fashions and big statement broaches. Coming together in a stupendous riot of color, think of this as the ultimate time capsule: a place that puts Warsaw on pause in quite scintillating style.

Pogodne Kaliska 9/22, pogodne.pl

NEW EDITION OF JAZZ PO POLSKU “WARSAW LIVE SESSIONS” BEGINS

NOW!

Performed in JASSMINE club, the cyclical event will attract the top jazz names in Poland…

Fifty performances by Poland’s top jazz talents will be conducted as part of the JAZZ PO POLSKU "Warsaw Live Sessions". The project will include, among others, Dominik Wania Quartet, Paweł Kaczmarzyk Trio, Piotr Damasiewicz Into The Roots, Stryjo. Special guest appearance will also be made by Mike Stern, the legendary American guitarist. The concerts will take place in JASSMINE club with the series kicking-off on 29th of January courtesy of the Mateusz Gawęda Trio.

JAZZ PO POLSKU returns to the JASSMINE club after the well-received series “Live Sessions

For China & Korea 2022”. From September to December last year, musicians recorded “live” concerts with the participation of the Warsaw audience before releasing the recording in Asia. During the coming months, every Sunday evening at JASSMINE, guests will again be able to see Polish artists again, as well as guests from abroad, who  will present themselves as part of the “Warsaw Live Sessions” project. The cycle will feature as many as 50 concerts over the next three years.

In 2023, leading artists of the Polish jazz scene will feature, including the winners of the

UPCOMING PERFORMANCES

12th Feb

Piotr Damasiewicz Into The Roots

26th Feb Stryjo

Fryderyk Award - Piotr Damasiewicz, Nikola Kołodziejczyk, Mateusz Smoczyński, and Dominik Wania. There will also be performances by representatives of the more contemporary scene, Follow Dices, Klawo, Piotr Matusik Trio, Siema Ziemia, Sebastian Zawadzki Trio, as well as winners of one of the oldest jazz festivals in Poland - Jazz Juniors Festival: Ziemia and Kuba Banaszek Quartet.

Special guests, meanwhile, will include guitarist Mike Stern, trumpeter Freddie Hendrix, and the Ukrainian duo Misha Kalinin and Roksana Smirnova.

“An important element of the Warsaw edition is supporting the local scene, as well as developing international cooperation and integrating creative circles from other countries” says Jakub Krzeszowski, creator of the JAZZ PO POLSKU project. “For the needs of the project, the artists will also create works inspired by Warsaw.”

As part of the JAZZ PO POLSKU “Warsaw Live Sessions”, the audience will have the opportunity not only to listen to the original music of leading Polish jazzmen, but also to take part in the live broadcasts of concerts. Performances recorded in video form will be available on social media, and selected audio tracks on streaming platforms. All concerts will be rebroadcast on the air of the radio media patron.

JASSMINE

ul. Wilcza 73

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BYFOT. IZABELLA KĘDZIERSKA/JAZZ PO POLSKU

WHAT, WHEN, WHERE

Warsaw’s key events at a glance…

Last Chance!

Locked for nearly half a century behind an Iron Curtain, Poland’s political transformation plunged the country head first into a bewildering world of capitalism, contrast, chaos and color. Marked by its sense of unrestrained adventure, the Museum of Warsaw’s most successful temporary exhibition to date recalls in vivid detail the intrigues and the mayhem of the 1990s. Shot by some of

the leading photographers of the era, but supplemented also by random public contributions, the collection’s 1,000 photographs chart varying chapters of the city’s story to offer a textured, warts and all retrospective of the good, the bad and the ugly. It’s amazing!

What: Gloss, Matte, Color

When: Closes February 19th

Where: Museum of Warsaw (Rynek Starego Miasto 32, muzeumwarszawy.pl)

Full Of Beans

Home to what some say is the most dynamic coffee scene in the Central Eastern Europe, it stands to rights that the Polish capital also boasts the region’s most important coffee fair. Attracting both industry professionals and coffee devotees, this two-day event will bring together dozens of stalls presenting different coffee roasters, hardware brands and coffee related products. As per tradition, it’ll also host the Polish Barista 2023 Championship and the Polish Brewers Cup.

What: Warsaw Coffee Festival

When: Feb 4th to Feb 5th

Where: PKiN (Pl. Defilad 1, warsawcoffee.pl)

Dog Days

Organized by the Zachęta’s little sister, Monika Chlebek’s Close Up exhibition celebrates the unbreakable bond between man and dog. Sometimes veering into abstract territory, this tender tale of love presents several close-up portraits of animals, giving the viewer the impression of looking deeply into the eyes of four-legged model – through this, we experience the almost mystical connection people have with dogs. So say the curators: “these paintings bring an understanding that we all belong to the primal wildness and world of nature”.

What: Monika Chlebek: Close Up

When: ongoing till April 2nd

Where: Zachęta Project Room (Pl. Gałczyńskiego 3, zacheta. art.pl)

MONIKA CHLEBEK: CLOSE UP AT ZACHĘTA

Life’s A Drag

An icon of Polish queer culture, Andy Nguyen was better-known under the stage name of Kim Lee. A casualty of Covid, for two decades this outstanding artiste became a legendary figure on the drag scene, with this exhibition paying tribute to the legacy built by Nguyen. Among other things, visit to view over stage costumes, personal items and photos shot by award-winning photographer Rafał Milich – not just of Ngyen / Lee, but also Warsaw’s wider Vietnamese community. Long associated with the bars of Wola, the exhibition’s location has been by no means incidental.

What: Kim Lee: Warsaw’s Queen

When: ongoing from Feb 2nd

Where: Museum of Wola (Srebrna 12, muzeumwarszawy.pl)

Nordic Style

Featuring artists from Sweden, Norway, Iceland, Denmark and Finland, over 100 works of art have been gathered by the National Museum of Art in Warsaw. The title of the exhibition references not just the summer solstice, but also the ‘solstice’ that occurred in Nordic painting at the turn of the 20th century. It was then that the Scandinavian countries saw their art scene blossom, and it is this that comes across in an exhibition that further touches o themes of nature, work, national myths, inner being and metaphysical landscapes.

What: Solstice. Nordic Painting 1880-1910

When: ongoing till March 10th

Where: Museum of National Art in Warsaw (Jerzolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl)

KIM LEE: WARSAW’S QUEEN AT MUSEUM OF WOLA

GLOSS, MATTE, COLOR AT MUSEUM OF WARSAW

The Haitian Way

Natural skincare for the modern woman…

APolish-Haitian natural cosmetics brand, Creamy was founded by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka to express her Caribbean roots and skincare expertise. Using unrefined oils imported from, among other places, Haiti itself, the natural ingredients favored at Creamy are combined with scientifically proven knowledge so as to provide for the best possible beauty care that today’s modern woman demands.

Inspired by the colorful culture and environmental richness of Haiti, this much is evident not just in Creamy’s aesthetics but also the composition of its cosmetics. Importing from Haiti the most important raw material of them all – moringa oil – all cosmetics are then produced in Creamy’s Warsaw lab.

Drawing on the culture, art and local beliefs of Haiti, the logo was inspired by the veve, the symbol associated with Er-

zuile, the Goddess of love. Also playing its role in the graphic identity of the brand are the works of Cupid, an artist whose work can often be found on sale on the streets of Port-au-Prince and Jacmel.

Creamy’s offer includes natural facecare cosmetics based on high-quality oils. These are oils for washing the face and removing make-up, oil serums with active ingredients, creams and pure oils. The offer is further supplemented by products for which the absorption of oils is problematic, including, for example, moisturizing rice essences or hydrolates.

Creamy uses the highest quality materials that are subject to the strictest controls. The overriding principle of Creamy is precise minimalism and balanced compositions without unnecessary fillers. Creamy uses almost 100% natural ingredients in its recipes without sacrificing the effectiveness of its cosmetics. Furthermore, all cosmetics are vegan and non-animal tested.

Always packaged in reusable glass, for each returned package we donate PLN 1 to the MARE Foundation whose goals include the protection of the Baltic ecosystem. Socially and environmentally aware, all our products are sent in recyclable paper. What’s more, through its importation of moringa, Creamy are proud to support Haitian women, for whom moringa cultivation is often the main source of income.

BROUGHT TO YOU

BY Creamy Atelier & SPA ul. Chmielna 6, creamy.pl

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Szwoleżerów 4

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a

warsaw montessori family

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught

in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaure-

ate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

antiques

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

KOLO

What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29

LAPIDARIUM

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES

At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Moktowska 71

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the

story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a lifesize replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

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shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

8 Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

6 Koneser Pl.

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Konesera, koneser.eu

THAT THURSDAY FEELING!

Falling this year on February 16th, there can be few days in Poland more deeply cherished than Tłusty Czwartek…

Rooted in Poland’s devoutly religious psyche, historically-speaking the last Thursday before the Lent holiday was traditionally a day on which worshippers would feast on goodies that would otherwise be shunned during this solemn period of fasting. As the years went by, that came to mean one thing alone: the donut.

Now bordering on mania, Fat Thursday sees the consumption of over 100 million donuts nationwide, with immense, unwieldy queues forming before daybreak at the bestknown bakeries and sweet stores. In Warsaw’s case, that means Zagoździński, family-run

The New Wave

Kukułka

Mokotowska 52

Lukullus

Lisowska 23, Chmielna 23, Rozbrat 22/24, Walecznych

29, Mokotowska 52A

MOD

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27

The Old Guard

Cukiernia Pawłowicz

Chmielna 13

Irena

Zakopiańska 20

Stary Dom

Puławska 104/106

Zagoździński

Górczewska 15

establishment that’s been doing business since 1925. Wrapped in waxy paper and tied together with a string, it’s the donuts from legendary venues such as this that go the quickest, with demand so high that limits are often enforced strictly rationing how many individuals can buy.

Bridging the past with the present, these old school refuges provide a glorious glimpse into the past (right down to their surly and occasionally hostile service), yet they’ve faced increasing competition from a fresh crop of newbies that have more in-line with the Western-style donuts so beloved by Chief Wiggum. Whichever you prefer, Warsaw won’t let you down.

GREY WOLF

NOWY