Warsaw Insider January 2024 #329

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JANUARY 2024

THE LIGHT AHEAD Warsaw’s golden future – see p. 22

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#329 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

PLN 10 (VAT 8% INCLUDED)

JANUARY 2024 Features: Snap! Photo of the year – see p. 8 That’s a wrap: looking back at 2023 – see p. 18 Who said wine? Warsaw’s top bars – see p. 44 Toy Story – Old Town’s craziest museum(s) – see p. 60

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Contents January 2024

Reviews: EAT & DRINK Review: Madre – p. 33

Interview: The Farm – p. 36 Review: Niigata Onigiri – p. 38 Review: Nar – p. 40 Review: Kawiarnia Nowomiejska 10 – p. 41 Review: Kaffe Bageri Stockholm – p. 42

DISCOVER Melt Museum – p. 59

COVER PHOTO CHRISTIAN D’ANTONIO, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

Review: Doll House Museum – p. 60

IT’S STANDARD PROCEDURE to kick-off January by wishing you all a Happy New Year, etc., and I guess likewise it’s tradition to allow for a moment of introspection to look back on the year whilst simultaneously gazing ahead at what lies in store. That’s what we’ve chosen to do this issue with Warsaw, travelling back to look at some of the bigger moments that the city enjoyed and endured, while also keeping our eyes staring forward at what the future holds. Looking at all the investments that have been labelled either ‘pipeline’ or ‘delivered’, and there’s definitely much cause for optimism – put all of these in one basket, and it’s impossible not to feel a frisson of excitement. Aside from that, as nostalgists we’ve also celebrated the PRL imagery of Grażyna Rutowska and also used the opportunity to launch our own Photo of the Year comp – I think you’ll find our nominees are delicious! Of course, there’s more. A real keeper of an issue, this latest edition also comes with a rundown of our favourite wine haunts and a motherlode of views, news and reviews. You’ll enjoy it, I’m sure. So once again, here’s to a banging 2024! Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Media Assistant Maria Sinkiewicz msinkiewicz@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TYTUS BRZOZOWSKI

Intel

For The Connoisseur Vodka mural debuts in Koneser complex…

idely known for his surrealistic watercolours, artist Tytus Brzozowski has added to his portfolio of murals with the unveiling of another large-format beauty inside the Polish Vodka Museum in Warsaw’s Koneser development. Depicting the production process from start to finish, the mural serves as a chronological lesson in the manufacture of vodka. Beginning in lush golden fields of rye, the work continues to show a distillery in Podolia Wielkie, a rectification plant in Poznań and, finally, the historic building of the Polish Vodka Museum where once vodka was produced. warsawinsider.pl

Insider Intel

“Whilst researching the subject, I was impressed by the centuries-long history of Polish vodka production” Unveiled in late November, the project is to be part of the Brzozowski Mural Trail, an initiative coined by the Warsaw Tourist Organization that will seek to highlight the capital’s sights and stories in an unconventional way.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

On Yer’ Bike

tats released by City Hall show another record-breaking season for Warsaw’s bike share program with Veturilo bikes being rented 4,910,240 times in 2023. Still priced at the same cost as when they were first introduced in 2012, the city now boasts a fleet of 3,281 bikes available at 319 stations. According to data, Sunday May 21st saw the highest number of rentals with bikes being used 32,400 times. The most popular station, meanwhile, was revealed to be the one at the Copernicus Science Centre with figures showing bikes were rented 70,250 times from this spot – a two-fold increase on 2020.

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“Whilst researching the subject, I was impressed by the centuries-long history of Polish vodka production,” the artist tells the Insider. “I really wanted to show the rural distilleries, as well as the knowledge that’s been accumulated over the generations – I wanted something that presented all these ancient processes surrounded by Poland’s idyllic landscape of fields and meadows.” Providing the work with an underpinning narrative, ribbons of golden rye weave through the air, their presence accompanied by the floating figures that have become a defining feature of Brzozowski’s paintings. “This story includes people,” says the artist, “as always, I wanted to emphasise the relationship between man and his environment. In this case, Poles been creating this drink for several hundreds of years and taking care of its quality.”

Saski Palace: In Numbers

Valued at PLN 2.4 billion, the reconstruction of the Saski and Bruhl Palaces has divided the public, and even more so now that breakdown figures have been released for 2023…

Made In Warsaw!

3.67 million On employee salaries

0.23 million Architectural competition

2.1 million Archaeological research

0.217 million Greenery management

1.1 million Office rental 0.9 million Saski Festival and dance

0.17 million Creation of multimedia app 0.09 million Car rental

First born in Warsaw, a Tik Tok trend called ‘crawling’ has become the focus of global media attention. Beginning when one Tik Tokker calling himself Crawly_Possessed started posting videos of himself dropping to the floor before crawling around shopping centres, the craze has now developed further with groups of youths converging on malls before crawling around in the form a human centipede. Soundtracked to dramatic screams, some videos have scored over 40 million views. Since spreading to the UK, the trend has caused uproar with the Daily Mail raising concerns about its “bizarre and intrusive nature”. The public have been similarly unimpressed. “Generation of idiots,” observed one user in the Mail’s comments section, “our future looks brilliant.” warsawinsider.pl

Take A Building

Technical Break! The hidden history of the House of Technology…

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

ne of the great joys of Warsaw lies simply in walking its streets and allowing instinct to be your guide. Doing so, the city yields no shortage of surprises, for it is down her random side streets that the biggest treasures await – as an

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

example, take Czackiego, an elegant street whose footfall is largely limited to those that work in the enigmatic hulk that is the Ministry of Finance. As stern and serious as this monolith might look, its almost suffocating presence is offset by the whimsical form of the House of Technology at No. 3 and 5. An exercise in excess, its façade reveals itself in an orgiastic pleasure of Neo-Baroque and Neo-Rococo with elements of Art Nouveau thrown in for good measure. Put simply, it is breathtaking. Built to house the Association of Polish Technicians (STP), it was constructed to fulfil a multitude of functions – not only would it be the organisation’s headquarters, but it would also host the lavish balls and fundraising events attended by its 600 members. In 1901, two committees were established to oversee the financing and development of the project, and it was these 30-strong panels that selected Jan Fijałkowski to supervise construction. Around 120,000 roubles were allocated for the purchase of a 2,100 sq/m plot on what would later become Czackiego street, and on July 31st, 1903, construction began. On November 25th, 1905, the building was finally finished. It made for a striking sight. With the architectural concept credited to Władysław Marconi, the building shared many of the extravagant details of his best-known work – the nearby Hotel Bristol. It was the supplementary ornamentations by Zygmunt Otto, though, that proved the pièce de resistance. Later famed for creating the eagles that dramatically swoop from the roof of Jasna Street’s Dom

Pod Orłami, it was Otto that designed three symbolic sculptures that adorned the façade: one depicting Archimedes and another of a woman with Radium eyes symbolizing the past and the future. At the top, meanwhile, figures of Daedalus and Icarus were placed. In the first year of WWI a hospital operated on the upper floors, though it was to be WWII that would have the biggest impact. Heavily damaged during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw, the building lost its third and fourth floors as a result of Luftwaffe bombing. What remained, though, played a hero role during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. It was here that the field HQ of the Sikora regiment was based, as too was a printing press rolling out leaflets informing citizens of military developments. After the rebellion was crushed, the building was left a ruined shell after the centre was razed. Reconstruction was completed in 1949, and although many elements were

restored, the iconic figures of Daedalus and Icarus were not. Likewise, the three domes that once capped the roof were also deemed superfluous to Warsaw’s socialist vision. Still, echoes of the past could be heard. In the immediate post-war years, the halls once again hosted extravagant New Year’s Eve balls even as rubble lay strewn about. Additionally, in 1956 the library was given dispensation to became the only place in the country allowed to subscribed to ‘capitalist literature’. Following the collapse of Communism, further beautification efforts were launched, among these a 2003 initiative to restore the ballroom to its original appearance. Around the same time, the building’s labyrinthine basement saw the opening of Klubo Kawiarnia, a legendary club decorated with pictures of Lenin and PRL castoffs. An essential part of the 00s era, its sweaty, dank chambers are fondly remembered by an entire generation. warsawinsider.pl

The Magnificent Seven Sorting through our 2023 archive, we pick out seven stunning candidates for our Photo of the Year! Your vote counts! You’ve seen the pics, now vote for your fave... (Keep an eye out on our instagram for our poll)

Light & Shade Photographing for four years, Toronto native Christian D’Antonio says: “this photo came to life during a day with heavy cloud cover and a clear horizon, often a recipe for beautiful sunsets. Having seen previous photos, I knew a planned visit to St Anne’s Church was a must, and thought this would be the best day for it. The charming landscape of Old Town, where the photo was taken, naturally enhanced its beauty allowing for a pleasing composition. I hope this photo resonates with viewers and shows the beauty of Warsaw.” Insta: dantoniocd

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

Dominoes “Photography has always been a big part of my life but at some point it became my biggest passion,” says Karolina Sabik. “I look at the world in frames. I see them everywhere. Most of the time I photograph with my DSLR but I think the best camera is always the one you have at hand when the magic happens. I love to show the world as I see it, through a lens. Sometimes that occurs in cities, sometimes in nature and sometimes I look for that magic in people.” Insta: karolka_sab_photography

Highways & Skyways “I’m self-taught, I’ve never attended photography workshops and all of my knowledge stems from simple experimentation,” says Insider favourite Kamil Leczkowski. “My first contact with photography was when I was about twelve, and it originated from my primary passion – aviation.” This striking image combines Leczkowski’s love of planes with his talent for photography to show a flight coming in over a typically gloomy Warsaw. Beautifully framed, it’s the kind of photo we all wish we could have taken to give our Insta a lift. Insta: kamil.leczkowski.photo

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The Magnificent Seven

Here Comes The Sun Hailing from Silesia, Sandra Papiernik came to Warsaw twelve-years ago. “When I moved here I wanted to get to know the city as best as possible and found that walking about taking photos was the best way to do so,” she explains. “Today, my camera and I are pretty inseparable – quite often, the things that make a great picture such as a sunset, a reflection, a dog or a rainbow can only be caught spontaneously.” Showing the riverfront boulevards, this picture is a gloriously detailed dip into Warsaw’s summer life. Insta: shandyy89

This Is Gotham Photographing since childhood, it was only in 2020 that Luke Pyrzynski levelled up to start treating street photography “seriously”. A photographer, filmmaker and YouTuber, this image was taken one April evening while “playing with reality”. Pyrzynski adds: “I don’t often edit photos this way, but both this place and perspective warranted a bit more attention. I love symmetry, so centring the tram allowed me to achieve the result I was looking for.” Evoking Warsaw’s nocturnal vibe, it's a picture that brings to life the capital after-hours. Insta: eastbanger

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

Always Coca-Cola Describing himself as a photographer, designer and traveller, Przemek Krawczykowski found himself first inspired by the neon lights of Taipei. “Returning to Warsaw, I began to notice it was just as vibrant here,” he says. “This is how the "Nightwalk" series was created - a collection of nighttime urban landscapes with neon lights in the main role, of which the above photo is a part. It was the "Nightwalk" series that brought me photographic success and recognition and changed my perception of the urban fabric after sunset.” Insta: pszzz

As Above, So Below “I’m a photographer primarily based in Warsaw,” says Rafał Ganowski. “My main focus is aerial photography, mainly shot using drones. On a daily basis I’m out capturing the city, and what I’m most interested in showcasing are those unique moments that make each shot special.” Featuring the city spliced in two by a thick bank of fog, this image is just that – an atmospheric joy that shows a bristling skyline on one level, and a train breaking from out of the mist on another. In one photograph, we see two different worlds presented. Insta: rafalganowskiaerial warsawinsider.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

CHANGING

Journey through retro Warszawa by exploring the Rutowska collection in the national picture archive…

FACES

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lazing a trail for the street photographers that0 fill your social feeds, Grażyna Rutowska is today regarded as one of the most influential photojournalists of the PRL era. Prolific in her output, the 38,000 images shot by her offer a compelling glimpse into the period, as well as an unvarnished view of life in Warsaw – its oddities, banalities and realities. Born in Bytom in 1946, she moved to Warsaw in the mid60s to study. Over the next couple of decades, she began documenting everyday life. Living at Żelazna 58/62, inside one of the blocks that formed part of the Za Żelazną Bramą housing estate, many of her photos were snapped directly in and around that neighbourhood. An era of extraordinary change, it was during these times that Poland – and Warsaw in particular – saw a string of government investments that were supposedly to point towards a brighter future: for instance, the reconstruction of the Royal Castle, and the construction of landmarks such as Central Station, the Forum Hotel and Trasa Łazienkowska. Unsurprisingly, these figure highly in her work, but so too does the mundane. Often accompanied by her giant black poodle, Agat, Rutowska’s shots show several sides to a city at play and a city at work. A fascinating journey through time, one could argue that no other photographer captured so many of Warsaw’s different faces.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE GRAŻYNA RUTOWSKA COLLECTION/NAC

PHOTOGRAPHY

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LOOKING Reflect on a year of triumphs as we explore citywide projects and anticipate Warsaw's impending renaissance, witnessing the unfolding developments that promise to shape its vibrant future.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

BACK FORWARD warsawinsider.pl

THE YEAR THAT WAS…

A year of triumph, join us for a look at some of the citywide projects implemented last year…

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

ON THE PIS Erected in September to celebrate Polish-Belgian friendship, Mokotów’s Belgijska street welcomed a replica of Manekin Pis. Ordered online from a gardening portal, the installation has drawn a steady stream of sightseers, including curious Belgian tourists. A spontaneous grassroots initiative, an application has now been made to make the figurine a permanent addition complete with fountain and flowerbed. Fingers crossed!

CROS S THE SQUARE Works on Plac Trzech Krzyży finally came to a close in 2023 with the end result meeting widespread approval – aside from introducing more bike paths and greenery, the project also saw the unexpected addition of a little bit of history. Back in 2022, work found itself briefly paused after a pre-war cobbled pavement was unearthed underneath the asphalt, as well as fragments of a tram track that once ran down the street. Covered from view for around sixty years, a small stretch has now been left open in homage to Warsaw’s past. PINK NEWS September saw a trio of pink dogs appearing across the Ochota district. Designed by Olga Prokop-Miśniakiewicz, the pups were created to beautify the area’s public space whilst simultaneously reminding residents of the importance of cleaning after their pets. Depicting a pooping dog, the works were placed in Park Pięciu Sióstr, Park Szczęśliwicki and by Primary School No. 97 on Spiska street. Sucking up PLN 45,000 of public funds, they divided the public and got off to a tricky start when officials turned up to one unveiling only to find the dog had vanished. Fortunately, the stolen stray was recovered soon after. BACK FROM THE BRINK Reinvented as the luxury Hotel Verte, the restoration of the Branicki and Szaniawski palaces bordering the Old Town deserves raucous applause. Rebuilt after the war on the basis of Canaletto’s paintings, this year saw their full glory revealed following a sensitive renovation that has preserved historical details and blended them with chic, design-forward modernity. Complete with a glazed, all-weather pavilion, stunning courtyards and curious niches, the Verte has proved a victorious project. warsawinsider.pl

The Year That Was…

C U LT U R E C L U B Upping Warsaw’s headcount of world class institutions, the last months of the year saw a double whammy to remember: the opening of The Polish History Museum and the first sneak peaks of the Polish Army Museum. Whilst the latter is currently closed ‘for technical reasons’, and the former remains a work in progress, both have done enough to earn praise for their design and message. Occupying a part of the Citadel complex, whilst the investments remain incomplete, enough has been achieved to allow visitors to walk temporary exhibitions and beautifully designed grounds that include the staggering rooftop of the history museum.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

WHITE OUT A unique product of its time, the Sobieski Hotel on Pl. Zawiszy found itself at the centre of a storm after its operators forged ahead and repainted it white. Opened in 1992, its façade had been originally designed by Hans Piccottini, an Austrian artist that sought to evoke the spirit of Warsaw’s Old Town through his use of bold, striking shades. What the public got was a bizarre riot of colour that later saw the hotel named Warsaw’s “worst building to be built between 1989 and 1995”. The more subtle colour palette that’s been adopted has been welcomed by some but criticised by those who fear that Warsaw is in danger of homogenising and losing all connection to its vibrant, crazy 90s.

BLAST TO THE PA S T While some are covering up traces of the PRL era, others are seeking to renovate and restore. That’s been the case with the Pallone ice cream stop at Puławska 51. Working with the conservator, the property’s owners sought to uncover and rehabilitate the former interior elements, and the result has seen an abstract 1960s mosaic glimmer anew. Created using pebbles, glazed ceramic tiles, polychromes and liquid terrazzo, the work was initially installed decades back for a showroom that sold the restorative mineral waters of Konstancin.

IN THE GREEN It could be argued that the most eagerly awaited development of the lot was Pole Mokotowskie. Finally opened in mid-December, soaring costs and budget cuts meant that only a fraction of its projected changes were implemented, but these have nonetheless been enthusiastically greeted. Often called “Warsaw’s favourite park” due to its user-friendly nature, the redesign saw thousands of metres of concrete ripped up and replaced by greenery and wooden decking. Walking trails and recreation zone have also been added, though possibly the most notable change has been the magnificent redevelopment of the lake at its heart. Summer can’t come soon enough.

HOW EGG- CITING! Twenty-one years after her artificial palm tree outraged Warsaw (yes, the one that stands centre stage on Rondo de Gaulle’a), Joanna Rajkowska returned to the limelight with the unveiling of a decorative egg measuring 2.1 metres in height and three metres in length. Emitting a hatching sound, according to the artist her project was intended “to place Varsovians into a completely different space-time. Specifically, the kind of space-time only birds know.” Forming the anchoring element of the revamped Plac Pięciu Rogów, the egg has felt like the final piece in the jigsaw. Initially criticised for its disappointing reliance on concrete, Plac Pięciu Rogów already feels successfully absorbed into the fabric of Warsaw. The egg, weird as it is, has added that final flourish of character that the project needed.

HILLS & THRILLS Thirty-five metres in height, the Uprising Mound (Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego) was created in the post-war years from tons of war rubble removed from the centre. Whilst designers saw it becoming a symbolic ‘tomb’, for decades it was little more than a rubbish dump until, that is, the 90s when it was crowned with a giant Kotwica – the anchorstyle emblem adopted by Poland’s wartime underground. Even so, while it became seen as a place of memory, it remained scraggly and unkempt. Not anymore. Improvements include an outdoor exhibition relating to Warsaw’s post-war clean-up and, up top, a circular viewing platform. Behind, a network of steel walkways slash through the trees and along the way visitors will discover several wooded groves, spidering trails, fragments of rubble and boards informing of the area’s wildlife.

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MARCHING FORWARD!

Reinventing itself in cycles, Warsaw stands to blossom anew in the coming years – join us for a look at the more standout developments appearing in the pipeline…

FROM THE TOP Right now, those seeking bird’s eye views of Warsaw flock to the Palace’s of Culture’s 30th floor viewing deck, though that’s set to be dwarfed when, finally, the Varso Tower’s observation platform opens. Launching hopefully this year, the 230-metre vantage point stands to be twice as high as that offered by the competition with the attractions also, purportedly, including a premium restaurant. Hyped as one of ‘the new symbols of Warsaw’, the 53-floor building became the EU’s tallest structure when it welcomed its first tenants in 2022.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

BRIDGING THE GAP Covering a length of 452 metres, approximately 130 metres longer than London’s celebrated Millennium Bridge, the footbridge connecting Praga’s Okrzei street street with the Wisła’s right bank is set to be completed this spring – possibly as soon as March. Enabling cyclists to cross the river in two minutes, and pedestrians in six, the investment will reputedly be among the longest such crossings in the world. Shaped, according to the architects, like a lightning bolt, the structure will be 6.9 metres at is narrowest point before widening to a width of 16.3 metres. Viewing points and benches will also be sprinkled along its length, making the PLN 140 million project an attraction in its own right. REMEMBERING THE HOLOCAUST First intended to open in 2023, to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, the Warsaw Ghetto Museum has had a stop-start history. Slotted to occupy the 19th century Bersohn and Bauman Children’s Hospital on Sienna street, the museum’s collection will include a cart used for transporting the dead as well as The Stroop Report that was filed to Himmler to announce the liquidation of Jewish Warsaw. Opening has now been set for 2026. G R E E N D AY S Stretching out for nearly two-kilometres, December saw plans confirmed for a stunning linear park cutting a swathe through the southern district of Ursynów. Covering a total footprint of approximately ten hectares, the park will see 1,000 trees planted and over 100,000 shrubs, vines and perennials. Of its other features, a promenade running its entire length will be built, along with walkways, meadows, wooden terraces, recreational areas, and a rain garden. First touted in 2015, the PLN 42 million investment is set to be completed in 2026. warsawinsider.pl

MARCHING FORWARD

HEAR THE WORD Opened in 1950 as Dom Słowa Polskiego, the largest printing house in Communist Poland, the plot at Towarowa 22 is to be absorbed into ‘new Wola’ thanks to a plan that foresees 6.5 hectares of offices, housing and retail facilities. “We want Towarowa 22 to be a model example of the modern city,” say the architects, “one that’s built with the current needs of its residents in mind, but also that respects the past whilst caring for the future.” The highest point of the project will be a 150metre office block while other high-rise structures will gently descend towards the south-east of the investment, thereby creating a natural passage between the offices on Rondo Daszyńskiego and the historic buildings of Wola.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

TWIN SISTERS Warsaw’s silhouette is in line for two more additions after Strabag Real Estate announced plans for two new skyscrapers that will take root on the site of the Atrium International office complex. Pland include a 34-storey tower that will top out at 131.5 meters, and a smaller sister that will reach 17 floors. Together, the duo will offer 47,000 sq/m of space. The new investment, say the architectural studio, will seek to create “a living façade” with its glass frontage revealing “the building’s function while in motion”. Aiming to be “elegant yet modest”, standout features will include a subtle, wave-like exterior and cascading levels at the top. As part of the project, a ‘green zone’ and small public ‘amphitheatre’ will also be built. Unfortunately, all this will take the place of the demolished Atrium, a barrel-shaped development built in 1995 that was once regarded as a beacon of change.

THE BIGGIE! Vaunted as the final element of Warsaw’s postwar reconstruction, controversial plans to rebuild the Saski and Bruhl palaces are also going full-steam ahead with the acclaimed WXCA architectural studio announced as being responsible for the rebuild. Promising to suck some PLN 2.5 billion out of the public coffers, many have questioned the necessity of the project; others, however, view this almost as a patriotic undertaking. One of Warsaw’s greatest pre-war symbols, the palace’s monumental interiors became HQ of the General Staff following independence in 1918. Originally built in 1661, the palace was remodelled in 1713 before being reconstructed in Neo-Classical style in 1838 following its devastation during the November Uprising. Scheduled for completion in 2030, this huge project will also see the Rococo Bruhl Palace rise again.

GOING UNDERGROUND Possibly opening this year, 2024 could see the premier of a four-level underground carpark underneath Pl. Powstanców Warszawy. The project envisages a more people-friendly square though critics have asked if Warsaw really needs to make space for 420 extra cars given rising pollution levels and environmental concerns. While substantial ground-level greenery will be introduced, city activists have noted that the latest renderings feature around fifty fewer trees than the earlier ones that were made public. NO MORE EYESORE? Villified as one of Warsaw’s ugliest streets, Chmielna’s revamp has long been overdue. After a failed tender earlier in 2023, it’s been confirmed that a candidate has been found to beautify this dank, tacky-looking throwback. Poised to be resurfaced with granite slabs, new street furniture and a fountain by the Atlantic cinema, the project though appears to have overlooked the number of empty, graffiti clad units that serve to make the area so grotty – their occupancy is vital if the street is to be improved. BE SQUARE Long seen as one of Poland’s worst examples of ‘concrete-osis’, the grey tundra standing in front of the Palace of Culture is in the process of undergoing a metamorphosis that will see it greened with 100 trees, thousands of shrubs and plants and a water feature. Surviving the war, the streets that once stood here were levelled to make way for Stalin’s gift to Warsaw, and these will also be remembered with lawns marking the former footprint of tenements and six types of stone delineating where courtyards and streets once ran. Though well underway, the project has faced minor delays due to archaeological finds, among them secret, blocked-up chambers where Communist party officials once met and rested between the parades that would run directly outside the Palace’s podium. warsawinsider.pl

MARCHING FORWARD JOIN THE DOTS Plac Żelaznej Bramy is also in line for transformation following the publication in December of plans to create a ‘French-style geometric garden’ that will take the place of a car park and turn this grey slice of Warsaw into a green pocket. Aside from a small space for concerts and cultural events, a sculpture of Fat Józek – a legendary pre-war landlord who once ran a bar in the area – will be added. Crucially, this enclave will find itself linked up to Saski Park via a pedestrian crossing. Initial blueprints will now need to be further refined before work begins in earnest. A R T AT TA C K Supposedly premiering this autumn, the Museum of Modern Art (MSN) has already done exactly what an art museum should do – cause outcry. Compared by many to a stack of outsized cargo containers, it’s new HQ in the heart of Warsaw has dominated architectural debate with lovers and haters seemingly equal in number. Designed by the New York City-based architecture studio Thomas Phifer and Partners, the 20,000 sq/m space will include, among other things, a reconstruction of the Polish Radio Experimental Studio authored by Oskar Hansen in the late 1950s. BANKING ON IT Grey and gridlocked, Pl. Bankowy has long represented the worst of Warsaw but that stands to change after a preliminary concept was presented in November that would see its greenery increased five-fold. As things stand, concrete amounts to 96% of the square’s footprint. Lined with numerous historic buildings, including City Hall itself, the beautification of the square has been a hot topic for well over a decade. A few years back, the introduction of ‘an urban summer beach’ became the subject of vicious mockery after it transpired to be little more than a few food trucks and deckchairs.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

INSIDER'S

GUIDE For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNIT Y HUBS & FOOD HALLS

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NORBLIN FACTORY ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com OVERVIEW Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia’s blended approach includes an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge beauty solutions and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent. The food and drink has also been a major plus, with most attention going to a food hall that appears in an energetic sea of neon.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com OVERVIEW Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, whilst the open-allhours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime.

F&B Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as BROWARY to its diverse range of choices WARSZAWSKIE – the so-called ‘Asian district’ Grzybowska 58, highly. In scores particularly browarywarszawskie.com.pl standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the OVERVIEW eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, Utilising elements of a historic brewery and setting the swanky MOXO bar-club them against an upmarket backdropJOIN of freshly THE CLUB crossover, the Tex Mex of Blue mapped streets and immaculate new build that Debuting in feels February, frequent visitors Cactus and the newly-launched contextually suited to the district, include can now register to join the Norblin Middle Eastern emporium that is Features Factory Club, an app that will give members aAmar premium food hall, Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s Beirut. Finally, check into accessMunja, to exclusive offers, promotions sports the aever-popular Balkan eatery the Biobar, Bazar, farmers’ market and discounts. Free to download, it’s and – a stunning live entertainment emporium. withBaila a reputation that extends designed with guests, tenants and But our favourite enclave of all? The been flagship nationwide. suppliers in mind. brewpub known as Browar Warszawski.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

WARS SAWA JUNIOR Marszałkowska 104/122, warssawajunior.pl

OVERVIEW Standing all but in the shadow of the Palace of Culture, WARS SAWA JUNIOR cuts a familiar sight to all. Conveniently connected by tram, bus, metro and even bicycle and scooter, today it presents the slick and shining face of modern Warsaw. But then, WARS SAWA JUNIOR has always been at the forefront of Warsaw retail. Opened as one of the first shopping centres in Poland, to this day it enjoys unflagging popularity and has again been embraced by the Warsaw public following an ambitious revival that has bordered on reinvention. TO DO Shopping is the name of the game with highlights including the largest adidas store in Poland as well as the only Uniqlo in the country. Other brands and stores present include Mango, Rituals, Zara, TK Maxx and H&M. On the food front, the central location of WARS SAWA JUNIOR also benefits visitors – consider the city your salon with dozens of restaurants of every price and persuasion found within a few minutes’ walk. Beyond the latest in high street fashion, it is the community angle of WARS SAWA JUNIOR that particularly stands out and their regular roster of events should not be overlooked. For latest info, check their social channels.

FABRYKA NORBLINA Żelazna 51/53

OVERVIEW Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking. F&B Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus and the Middle Eastern emporium that is Amar Beirut. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

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CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

IN JANUARY Koneser’s January timetable had not been revealed at press time, but for sure you’re advised to swoosh around the ice rink in the centre of the plaza. For other events, keep an eye on their social media streams for further details.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

OVERVIEW Reopened in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, A Class offices and loft-style apartments, no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021. For most though, the F&B lineup is the strongest attraction of all and this includes upmarket Indian from Bombaj Malasa, the casual eatery Spółdzielnia and the real feather in the cap, the Koneser Grill – a sophisticated, meat-centric venue belonging to the creators of eateries such as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine.

#TheTasteComesFromTheNature

Our menu is like a diary of the seasonal journey we want to take you on. + We invite you to taste the menu consisting of dishes based on regional ingredients. + Our advantage is also a fantastic offer of the best domestic steaks

(from our farm in Masuria) and imported (Japan, Australia, Chile, USA).

+ In addition, we offer our guests an intimate room for business meetings.

Mokotowska 8, Warsaw

Call us: +48 725 320 420

TheFarmPL

thefarm_warsaw warsawinsider.pl

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ITALIAN NEW WAVE Madre looks to reinvent the Italian experience…

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Review

arsaw’s love of good Italian is nothing new – ever since Queen Bona Sforza bought little pieces of Italy over to Poland in the 16th century, the city has viewed the food of Italy with wide, loving eyes. Living in the past, however, is not something Warsaw does, and Madre emphasizes that by reimagining Italian cuisine in a way that’s innovative and modern.

THE WHO

A joint enterprise, the forces behind Madre are Pablo Martin Delgado and Giacomo Carreca. The former, you’ll have probably heard of already – the creator of Tapas Bar, Warsaw’s Hispanic scene would be nothing without his invigorating passion. Sicilian-born Carreca, on the other hand, is best-known locally for his stint at Diverso restaurant as well as through his popular cooking workshops. Together, their influence and know-how runs through a menu that kicks off with two signature negronis named after the owners – for us, we picked the well-crafted Pablo, a mix of Larios gin, Astobiza vermouth and Sprissetto bitter. It's a nice, personalised touch to have a drink honouring the owner(s), and their pulling power has proved such that in Madre’s short life check-ins have come from the likes of Andrea Camastra – the only Michelin-starred chef working in Warsaw. As an endorsement, that’s as good as it gets.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

THE WHERE

Madre sits in a corner unit of Elektrownia Powiśle, with one side overlooking the main entrance. Design-wise, it’s interesting: neon curls and disc-shaped ceiling lights hanging above an interior that’s a big bang of blacks, glass, teal and Austin Powers orange. Casual and con-

temporary, it feels right for every moment – whether that be an evening date, a working lunch or a post-shopping break whilst you update your Insta.

THE WHAT

The food of Italy is given a fresh perspective under Carreca’s hand, and that much is clear

Madre Dobra 40 (Elektrownia Powiśle), fb.com/madrewarsaw

“

Living in the past, however, is not something Warsaw does, and Madre emphasizes that by reimagining Italian cuisine in a way that’s innovative and modern...

from the off. Starting out, piccolo bites include six marble-sized croquettes bursting with creamy Parma ham (PLN 32), whilst starters hit the right mark as well through choices such as the polenta churros (PLN 34) – served in a tin mess tray, these pencil-sized treasures come with a gorgonzola sauce that’s satisfyingly creamy and crumbly. Pasta though is the biggest draw here, made from scratch to exacting standards – generously topped with parmesan foam and cacao, the open lasagne Bolognese (PLN 58) says much about this kitchen’s attention to detail. There is of course pizza, as well, and that divides itself into classics and ‘gourmet’ choices. Made using 18-yearold sourdough, we picked the Gamberi (PLN 80), the priciest of the lot. Served cold and only warmed around the edges, some could call it an acquired taste, yet there is no faulting the skill and thought behind it. Nor the ingredients. Featuring a carpaccio of torched prawns and an exciting mango chili salsa, it’s most certainly memorable. As for dessert, choose from a trio of tiramisus (PLN 26-30) that boast homemade savoiardi and other loving touches.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE VERDICT

For those still living in pre-covid times, the prices can appear a little steep, yet there is much potential here. With footfall guaranteed courtesy of the premium location, expect Madre’s name to ring loudly in the new year as its reputation grows. Breaking away from norms whilst simultaneously respecting aspects of tradition, it’s an adventurous addition to Warsaw’s booming Italian scene. warsawinsider.pl

Interview

FROM FARM TO FORK

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Famed for their farm-restaurant concept, as well as their peerless offer of meats, we talk to Jakub, head butcher at The Farm about the secrets of his meats…

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

The Farm Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl

Insider: Where are your meats from? We have 400-hectare farm in the Warmia-Mazuria region of northern Poland and that’s where we breed certified Aberdeen Angus, Wagyu cattle, etc. The concept was to have our own farm so we could control the whole process from start-to-finish and maintain the quality we want. That way, we control the cost, the quality and so forth. How would you describe Poland’s beef market? We’ve got good farms, but 90 to 95% of our top quality beef goes abroad for export. What are your selection criteria? We cover a broad scope. We have steaks with high marbling, and also medium marbling for those who like a little fat but not too much. Then there’s other red meats that are delicate, not chewy. Typically speaking, we’ve got a wide spectrum of meats to choose from: dryaged, wet-aged, on the bone, Argentinean, Chilean, Japanese, Polish, etc.

What’s the secret to a good steak at home? The biggest piece of advice I offer is to rest the meat when it’s out of the fridge, and the longer the better. Meat needs to be at room temperature so you need to rest it before cooking. Also, you need to observe it during the cooking process. Don’t be afraid to touch the meat to see how it’s cooking.

tomer and butcher communicate with each other. If we don’t know what you want to do with a cut, we can’t advise you. But if, for example, we know that your steak is for the end of the week, or next week even, then I’ll vacupack but still recommend freezing just in case something goes wrong. If you’re a customer, never be afraid to ask your butcher questions!

How would you advise someone to best enjoy their steak – any condiments or garnishes? I see some customers ordering a Wagyu and asking for a Bearnaise sauce – in such instances, I’ll gently suggest that maybe they try the steak first, perhaps with a little salt or pepper, before adding any sauce. First, try and enjoy the meat rather than thinking of the wider dish. It’ll open a new taste. Of course, if you like sauce, then go for it – food is a pleasure, after all. If it makes you happy, then go ahead!

What do you expect to be selling in January? It varies. Demand changes, so it’s a case of us saying, right, we’ll shift 20 rib-eyes and 100 tenderloins this week. Maybe customers will have seen a cooking program or seen a recipe in a magazine – in our line of work, we simply have to be ready to respond. Each month is a little different from the last.

How should people store a steak? It’s really important that the cus-

Finally, how should we be serving a steak – is wood any good? The moment a steak is ready its temperature will always go down, so a hot plate is needed, one that will give you enough time to enjoy your cut whilst you eat it. warsawinsider.pl

RICE & SHINE

Unravel the essence of Tokyo, one rice triangle at a time…

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

sure sign that a restaurant has mastered its craft is the sight of an orderly queue braving sub-zero temperatures. Nestled under a wooden sign bearing a simple logo, this unassuming establishment, distinguished by a grid of nine windows, first emerged as a culinary oasis during the pandemic. Operating within the confines of Covid restrictions, this unpretentious spot in the city centre has been dishing out

delectable triangular parcels of rice joy ever since, each one a vessel for meticulously prepared Japanese delicacies. Curiosity led me to ponder how a compact space manages to produce a diverse array of fresh options daily. Unveiling the mystery, I discovered that the central location, near Politechnika, focuses on crafting the rice and preparing select fillings, while the primary production hub in Mokotów, near Bazar Olkuska, handles the bulk of the operation. The revelation that the owner, Kasia, earned her culinary stripes in Japan, courtesy of an invitation and an apprenticeship at Tokyo's renowned Onigiri Bongo, added an intriguing layer to the narrative. Her first-hand experience of planting rice in Niigata and her admiration for Ghibli movies piqued my interest, compelling me to pay her establishment a visit in the hopes of striking up a conversation. Stepping into the restaurant, I was immediately captivated by an interior reminiscent of a young anime fan's bedroom. Opting for a seat at the bar, where traditionally the Japanese leave their culinary fate in the hands of the chef, I was warmly greeted by none other than the onigiri maestro herself, Kasia. As she regaled me with tales of her onigiri-making adventures, her hand gestured proudly towards a wall adorned with photos capturing her alongside Japanese legends and even operating a rice transplanter in Niigata's fields. Kasia’s menu boasts a tempting selection of ten vegan and six non-vegan onigiri. My choice, the spicy Akuma craft-

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Review

Niigata Onigiri Noakowskiego 8 & Puławska 82, niigataonigiri.pl

ed from minced soy, delivered a tantalising kick enhanced by the addition of rayu chili oil. For a non-vegan indulgence, I sampled the Sake, featuring salmon aged in sake with shoyku and takuan, a yellow pickled daikon. The harmonious fusion of flavors and textures, encased in seaweed imported from Japan, was nothing short of blissful. So enamoured was I with my lunch that I couldn’t resist ordering a few more onigiri to share with my family. As Kasia handed over the neatly packaged parcels, I couldn't hide my hesitance, knowing my perennial struggle with the three-step process of opening plastic wraps. Sensing my predicament, Kasia graciously bowed and handed me a small card elucidating the steps, going the extra mile to demonstrate the technique with a reassuring smile. “Don’t worry,” she quipped, “even some Japanese people have difficulty opening them.” Such thoughtful gestures and culinary excellence make this onigiri haven in Warsaw a hidden gem worth discovering. (KD)

warsawinsider.pl

Review TURKISH DELIGHT

f the major ethnic food groups, Anatolian cuisine remains under-represented in Warsaw, at least that is if you look beyond the immediate scope of the many sub-standard kebab joints that advertise themselves as Turkish. Yeah, let’s discount those altogether and instead look to Nar, a place that on very first glance is instantly likeable. Opened earlier in the year, find it occupying a large corner unit straddling Żurawia and Poznańska. Allowing plenty of light to seep in through its floor-to-ceiling windows, it lifts any seasonal blues through a design that embraces breezy creams and soft tan colours. Lacking in any overt exotica,

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

it’s free from cliché and is all the better for it. As for the menu, it’s a banger. Served with a pillowy pide bread, the ezme salad is a rich, silky mass of diced peppers and tomatoes, and as a starter it’s the ideal way to slide into the meal. Eating it, the mouth feels alive. Mains, they cover the bases you’d expect and include an Adana minced beef kebab served under lashings of yoghurt and tomato sauce. You imagine its good in all conditions, but under Warsaw’s bleak January skies it feels all the better – it’s a mood enhancer. The same, however, goes for the dishes marked ‘chef specialities’. For us, that meant the Beyti, minced beef rolled in thin slices of lavash and, like the kebab, smothered

in sauce. There is nothing clever about Nar, but that’s possibly its biggest strength. It doesn’t seek to over-embellish or add needless frills, instead it focuses on what matters: providing quality food and drinks in an atmosphere that engages. With so many venues over-thinking their style and offer, Nar does the opposite – as a strategy, that can’t be commended enough.

Nar

Żurawia 47/49, narrestaurant.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A breath of Anataloian authenticity in Warsaw's Culinary Scene

First Sip

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT

Coffeehouse warmth converges with the magic of Old Town inside a bubbly haven snuck from the public eye…

othing captures the essence of winter in Warsaw quite like a leisurely walk around the Old Town. Amidst the market stalls and enchanting illuminations, the festive spirit that still lingers after Christmas is impossible to shake. While not as globally renowned as Kraków's historic quarter, Warsaw’s Old Town holds its own allure, drawing both locals and visitors of all ages who seek to embrace its timeless charm with friends and family.In the midst of the seasonal bustle, finding respite from the boisterous crowds becomes a necessity. Tucked away discreetly, the hidden gem at Nowomiejska 10 awaits discovery.

Nestled within a tenement building cleverly concealed behind the Museum of Warsaw, this unassuming location serves as a mini community hub. Each floor features a spot to quench your thirst, with the crown jewel – an apartment for rent – sitting at the very top.The preferred haunt among Insiders, Same Krafty is a holiday favorite. However, for those seeking a more serene interlude, this charming café proves to be the ideal retreat before rejoining the organized chaos outside. Ascending the stairs to this high-ceilinged oasis, guests are greeted by a welcoming smile from the bartender. If fortune favours, a chance encounter with the owner, Martin, may lead to engaging conversations or an introduction to the café’s board game corner.Unlike many establishments in Old Town adorned with plastic flowers and dated motifs, this independent café boasts a modern aesthetic. Thoughtfully decorated with solid wood tables and classic prewar elements like a stand-up piano and coat rack, these are harmoniously balanced with the contemporary art adorning the walls. The café's offerings extend beyond the standard fare, featuring Arabic coffee, an assorted selection of teas, and their highly sought-after apple pie. Opting for the honey cake with Earl Grey, I found myself seated comfortably on a couch, reminiscing over photos of Old Town and embellishing the memories forged on a delightful afternoon with friends.Whether seeking a momentary recharge or aiming to linger and build new connections, this café embodies the true spirit of a coffeehouse. It has undeniably become a newfound favourite, a place where the authentic essence of Old Town links with a sense of warm camaraderie. (KD)

Kawiarnia Nowomiejska 10 Nowomiejska 10

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Reviews

NOW IN STOCK!

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Warsaw welcomes a warm Stockholm-inspired spot

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

Kaffe Bageri Stockholm Nowolipki 13, kaffestockholm.pl

aving already rolled out successful ops in Kraków and Wrocław, the opening of a Stockholm in Warsaw feels like a real statement of intent. Bristling with cafes and interesting eateries, this section of town has come alive in recent times, a feeling rounded out by the launch of this warm, little spot. Feeling snug and welcoming, there’s almost a living room feel thanks to the proliferation of homely additions such as a piano topped with books. Accessorized with bits of artwork and beautiful floor tiles, it’s hardly a surprise that people like to linger – a free table at the weekend is a rare sight indeed. Adorned with stickers of ABBA, coffee comes from a swanky Astoria machine, though if there is a real reason to visit then it is for the pastries that sit on the counter. Baked fresh on the day, and often served piping hot, these include traditional kanelbullar (sweet cinnamon rolls). On a chilly day, just one of these warms the edges of the soul. warsawinsider.pl

Round-up

Wine O’Clock

No more are Warsaw’s wine bars formal, frosty affairs. This January, sip back and relax in these Insider faves…

Brać

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48 Now considered a veteran when pitted against so many young guns, this warming labyrinth feels snug, intimate and even a little rustic. Around 250 wines have been amassed and they go brilliantly with the food.

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

Grono_Mokotowska

Mokotowska 54 Contained within a 30 sq/m space, the gorgeous wall fittings on which the wines rest are made to feel an organic part of this pre-war property. A place of subtle and calming class, its location on Mokotowska

makes it a surefire check-in after sweeping the local boutiques during the January sales.

Kontakt

Sandomierska 13 Weaknesses do not exist in Kontakt, and if they do, they have yet to be formally identified by any

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Zgoda 3 & Sierakowskiego 4A Resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać have made it their mission to showcase its unknown quality. Presenting onedge sips from niche domestic producers (including collabs with the Funky Fluid craft brewery!), all this is done in a stylish space that feels good to be in. From 2023, this was our favourite wine-related find!

who visit. Looking glorious in its deep shades of blue, its look is complemented by a 400-strong wine list slanted towards natural, bio-dynamic and organic wines. The five-star experience is aided by wonderful food.

Rascal

Moliera 6 Formerly a canteen for ballet dancers, this address now holds the largest bar in Europe specialising in natural wines – you weren’t expecting that! Entered past a lavish drape, this cool space has a suitably adventurous choice of rebel wines.

Rausz na Wilczej

Wilcza 27 Small batch wines as well as Old World classics are prevalent inside a space lovingly operated. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.”

Superfly

Zajęcza 1A Bathed in the soft light of the 70s style vintage lamps that sit scattered about, the natural wines are of the cutting edge and are ably supported by the cooking of co-owner Oleg. Looking out onto grim January Warsaw, the fulllength windows remind you why you need to stay put and order another glass. Or even a bottle…

Niewinność

Zgoda 5 Though lacking the exhaustive choice of its competitors, Niewinność has a supremely atmosphere that feels more like popping round to a hip loft apartment belonging to a friend.

Cuda

Nowy Świat 6/12 Rebranding in late November, what was formerly Cuda Na Kiju have struck back to adapt for modern times. Seen as Warsaw’s first craft beer multi-tap, they’ve kept the beer choice exciting, but now also expanded their offer to include cocktails and some interesting wines. Appearing as a glass cube buried at the bottom of the former commie party HQ, this legendary venue just became even better.

It’s this casual-cool, make-yourself-at-home vibe that has made it a legend.

Winem Powiśle

Tamka 37 As heavily gentrified as Powiśle has become, it retains a good sprinkle of spots that feel genuinely special rather than cookie-cut copies of everything Warsaw has done before. This is one of them – upmarket but arty and atmospheric, there’s a Factor X here that makes it ideal for dates.

Winna Żona

Mińska 40 Across from Soho Factory, Winna Żona is exciting – no

other word for it. Plonked in an area that still feels raw and gritty, this pocket-sized venue – on the ground floor of an on-trend shared workspace – has a slick bottle green interior filled with tumbling plants and a choice of wines from bleeding-edge producers.

Żaba Wine Bar

Patton’a 699 Frozen riverside views aren’t the only plus, for the design inside this pavilion is something else – fetching at night, the colours and furnishings create the impression of entering a lava lamp. A fave with the insta crowd, both wines and food are pretty non-standard. warsawinsider.pl

Pizza News

For The Love Of Pizza

News and views from Warsaw’s pizza sector…

Insider’s Pick

Bottega’s

Oboźna 9/105, bottegas.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCPET TOP RIGHT FACEBOOK

ottega’s has emerged as a haven for authentic pizza craftsmanship amid a trend for over-the-top toppings. Rather than using the base as a canvas for questionable garnishes, Bottega’s adheres to a purist approach, producing pizzas with genuine Italian ingredients. Led by pizziaola Fabiano, the bustling kitchen resembles a well-rehearsed dance recital. The vibrant ambiance, akin to an art gallery, enhances the dining experience. The secret to Bottega’s Neapolitan pizza lies in a Polish-influenced cold dough method that yields crunchy, airy borders. The menu, featuring Margherita, capriccios, diavola, bufala, and enticing white pizzas, invites repeated visits. Complementing the culinary experience is an array of Baladin draft beers on tap, including Nazionale, Sud, and Lippa. Beyond a mere pizzeria, Bottega’s is an immersive cultural experience, offering diverse menu options, event hosting, and a welcoming staff, making each visit feel like a special blend of home and a night on the town.

In Love Forever

Hip To Be Square

New On The Scene

For the flavours of The Eternal City, head to Va Bene (Tamka 9, fb.com/ vabenewarsaw). Tiny but atmospheric, this corner unit is an informal hangout serving Italian inspired cocktails, homemade pasta and rectangles of Roman pizza topped with whatever seasonal ingredients that the owner, Emanuele, has at hand. It’s different and adorable!

Providing Detroit’s rebel spin on pizza, Kwadratowy Pies (Chmielna 13A, kwadratowypies.pl) sells rectangular pan pizza that’s thick, chewy and topped to the edge with renegade toppings such as buffalo chicken or pickled sweet chilli and vodka sauce. For traditionalists, the cheese and pepperoni is a great introduction. From the same squad behind Mąka i Woda, it lends a fun twist to your pizza habit.

Pizzaiolo on the corner of Krucza and Wilcza should need no introduction: as popular for post-pub drinks as it is for cracking pizza, that fun lovin’ vibe has been successfully transplanted to their new venture inside the legendary pavilions located behind Nowy Świat 22/28A. Good times are promised inside a red-lit haunt that only closes at 4 a.m. on the weekends.

Mąka i Woda Chmielna 13A

Credited with popularising the Neapolitan pizza in Warsaw, their place in folklore is highlighted by the queues at the door. Nonna Pizzeria

Oboźna 11 & Solec 50

Pollypizza

For…

The Best of Naples Ciao A Tutti

Niepodległości 217

A veteran pizzeria with an old school look (gingham tablecloths, strings of garlic) and a reputation underscored by an official ranking in Europe’s Top 50 Pizzerias.

Nonna’s 2020 opening raised the bar. Great to enjoy inside, their wood-fired pizza travels equally well when delivered via their takeout joint on Solec. Pizzaiolo

Krucza 16/22

Traditionals are great, but the more unorthodox house pizzas are even better – for instance, pickled habanero and potato puree. Pollypizza

Puławska 24

A hugely fun and retro-cool interior complements experimental Neapolitan pizzas such as Legalize Marinara (featuring CBD oil). warsawinsider.pl

The

THE MICHELIN STAR

Buzz

Nuta Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss.

ONE OF A KIND

Andrea Camastra’s restaurant is a magical enclave in which time stands still. Mixing his famed scientific techniques with artisanal processes, his tasting menu is expressive in its aesthetics and flavour, as if it were an extension of his own firecracker character. Even the cheeseboard is a mind-bender – on our April visit, jaws hit the floor as this arrived in the liquified form of a pear consommé topped with warm gorgonzola foam. A bold, world-class adventure, no other restaurant offers such a ride – a second Michelin star seems guaranteed. FORMAL & EXTRAORDINARY Epoka Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs, with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants. EXQUISITE

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Nolita Wilcza 46

Trójka Kielichów Stalowa 38 / 2

Is it a café? A restaurant? Wine bar? Cocktail den? The truth is, it’s all of these yet none. A hybrid hangout at the front end of cool, under indigo tinted lights this scruffy yet theatrically hip room (it’s tiny!) serves killer breakfasts, fab cocktails, low intervention wines and beautiful bites such as Turkish pochette eggs. Radically creative, it’s akin to being invited around to an artist’s studio for a chat and a drink and some curious snacks.

Winning our 2022 award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colours and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine warsawinsider.pl

The Buzz dining hasn’t died. ECLECTIC & UPMARKET

Dyletanci Koszykowa 47

Subtle and stylish with its muted, neutral colours and pops of art, amid the light woods and sky-coloured walls, the assembled fine wines have been selected to dance in tandem with the cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk. His cooking is elegant, eclectic and never short on sensational taste. FOR THE TASTING MENU Rozbrat 20 Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it. DATE NIGHT

Ale Wino Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a decked courtyard terrace for when it’s not. NEW WAVE

hub.praga Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our

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Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art. CASUAL SCENE Bibenda Nowogrodzka 10

With no reservations accepted, Bibenda’s enduring popularity ensures that queues often build at the entrance – even at the height of the Polish winter. Augmenting the warm interiors of raw red brick and dim yellow lighting, guests flock for a menu that celebrates the fields, forests and farmsteads of Poland. Though not strictly vegetarian, meat is a rare find with the focus now shifted on eclectic combinations of freshly plucked goodies – e.g. crispy mushrooms and scallions with fermented garlic chili honey and peanut chili crisps. THE NEED TO KNOW The Eatery Koszykowa 49A

This attractive off-street space comes swathed in white-on-white colours – blissfully cocooned from the outside world, and decorated orb-like installations, this chic but casual space gives Polish food a modernised translation. Visiting for our May issue, we were bowled over by the pork cheeks served with a punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquified peas and red cabbage. NEW POLISH Źródło Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants

equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence. POLAND REIMAGINED Bez Gwiazdek Wiślana 8

Regarded as one of Warsaw’s gastronomic treasures, each month sees Robert Trzópek design a tasting menu inspired by a specific region of Poland. His creative interpretations of the nation’s culinary traditions are delicate, nuanced and beautifully balanced. The chic but casual setting reflects the philosophy. TRENDING POLISH Pod Gigantami Ujazdowskie 24

Once seen as a classic restaurant for ‘old people’, Pod Gigantami’s reinvention stretches to 3 a.m. finishes come the weekend. Marrying heritage with hip, during more normal hours enjoy thoughtfully cooked Polish classics including an old school schabowy the size of a small planet. POLAND FOR INSIDERS Źródło Targowa 81

The interior is a jumble of exposed pipes, flurries of greenery, hardwood floors, recycled furnishings and colourful Boho bits and bobs. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refine-

ment at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence. In October, that meant pumpkin with goat milk feta and ‘golden raisins’, and a star turn from a beef rib with pickled plums and a pair of steamed buns. BREAD & BREAKFASTS Baken Żurawia 6/12 & Browary Warszawaski

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette.

COLOMBIAN COOL

Macondo Poznańska 16

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

Moving from Poniatowski Bridge in December, Macondo will be looking to transplant their cheerful, party vibe to Poznańska. Known for their Latin party tipples and bitey menu of crispy empanadas and plantain pancakes, we’ll be checking in on them in the coming weeks!

Mr. Greek Souvlaki Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits

Nova Wola

LOCAL BAKERY Bułka z Chlebem Walecznych 5

The subject of Warsaw’s best artisanal bakery is contentious, but Saska Kępa’s Bułka z Chlebem takes some beating with its cult miso breads, fluffy loaves of chmurka, pillowy challah and daily pastry specials. It’s an integral part of the community with fermented wheat and rye sourdough their specialty. STAR SUSHI Noriko Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi experience the country has ever seen.

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 , Warsaw +48 22 377 38 01 novawola@ihg.com novawola.com

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The Buzz well with the meaty skewers. RED HOT INDIAN Guru Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! MEXICAN MAGIC Santa Catrina Radna 14

Decorated in a jaunty Day of the Dead style, the tacos (and secret spicy salsas!) of Isabel Balderas are legendary. The number of expat Mexicans that eat here are the ultimate testament to her prowess. TIME FOR THAI Ahaan Unii Lubelskiej 1

Found in a historic tollbooth, Ahaan serve mostly authentic ‘street food’ from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavours than you may expect. VIETNAMESE TASTE Viet Street Food Bistro Królowej Aldony 5/2

What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit-down space. The huge bowls of pho are a wise order to make, though our standard in this busy neighbourhood eatery is the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce. PREMIUM SEAFOOD Tuna Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a

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fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colours, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes. SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR Ceviche Bar Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here it’s served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails. HARDCORE CARNIVORE Mięsny Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks. THE UNEXPECTED MOD Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro

mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with new media types. INSTA FAVE

Happa To Mame Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also include dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds. BURGERS

Burger.lab Piękna 28/34

If you thought the burger ‘thing’ had jumped the shark ten years ago, then clearly you haven’t been to Burger. lab. The venue alone is invigorating with things taking a truly wacky turn downstairs – looking like it’s been ambushed by graffiti artists, head here to chow down on non-standard burgers such as the Glam – sprayed gold, it’s packed with unexpected additions like strawberry sauce. A VEGAN THRILLER Dziki Królik Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka’s involves Warsaw’s best tacos and more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon.

CITY CENTRE VEGAN Peaches Gastro Girls Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal. VEGAN BRUNCH Lychees Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles. VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II 52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

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We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style. BEER GEEKS

Jabeerwocky Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as

their own house beers. Prewar floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior. THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT Kufle i Kapsle Nowogrodzka 25

Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw. CUTTING EDGE CRAFT Hopito Chmielna Chmielna 24

Opened last year as the younger sister of Hopito’s Żurawia venture, this branch feels a little more mature in its target audience, though every bit as fun in its beer selection - radicalized drinkers will love Hopito’s own crazy brews. OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty Vis-à-vis Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of the mainstream fizz peddled by the other nearby bars.

FRIDAY HIT

Grace Drink Bar Krucza 16/22

Named in honour of Grace Jones, the choice of hero says much about a place that devotes itself to celebrating the glam excess of 80s New York. Rooms include one that’s all bordello style colours and velvety finishes, and another that’s high on plush purple, glass and mirrors. Fuelling the party, are classic cocktails, kamikaze shots and kitschy yesteryear hits. CREATIVE COCKTAILS Ave Pegaz Piłsudskiego 9

Inside a lively interior that doesn’t take itself too seriously (check the ‘ceiling garden’), swivel about to gawk at a mighty collection of corkscrews and drinking implements. In this alchemist’s workshop find yourself enjoying some of the most creative cocktails in Warsaw. SPEAKEASY COCKTAILS El Koktel Wojciecha Górskiego 9

For many no-one does it better. The ‘ring the bell’ entry process lends a speakeasy feel that’s accented by a small interior faintly illuminated by dozens of bare bulbs. Peer through this midnight discover for a lesson in mixology – the cocktails are international class and often break boundaries with their taste and presentation. WORLD CLASS COCKTAILS Lane’s Gin Bar Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel)

Presenting itself in a palette of peachy-pink colours that exude a stylish warmth, there’s no shortage of brass,

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The Buzz glass, stone and satin, and the perfect proportions and floaty ambience make it intimate enough to feel like a private members club. That sense of personalization peaks when seated at a bar that presents a motherlode of glimmering bottles set against a mosaic that gently riffs on the building’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco heritage. Gin-based sips are the specialty, but everything else is perfect as well. COCKTAIL PORN VHS Poznańska 7

The shoebox sized VHS pays tribute to the 80s and 90s and is a model for good times – boasting a flamingo and pictures of Mr T., the toilet says it all. The drinks are among the wackiest in Warsaw, and they’re as fun to drink as they are to photograph. FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS Reginabar Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball. RETRO HIP

Paloma Inn Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colour tones and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak,

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70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails. VENETIAN ALLURE Va Bene Cicchetti Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise rollcall of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks. CLASSY BOURBON Aura Hoża 27

Tiny as it is, Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head-turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bourbons. THE ATMOSPHERE Beirut & Kraken Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. INSIDER CLASSIC Pardon To Tu Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched! FOR THE MUSIC Młodsza Siostra Dobra 14/16

Known for his ear for upcoming talent, the owner Michał isn’t averse to taking risks in order to broaden Warsaw’s musical palate. The scrappy backdrop of bike repair garages give a vibe redolent of the shadowy courtyards of Berlin and Budapest, whilst inside it’s all creaking floorboards, mismatched furnishings and a clientele sourced from the local Academy of Fine Arts. REBEL SOUNDS

Chmury / Hydrozagadka 11 Listopada 22

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere. A BIT OF EVERYTHING Foton Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up

of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steel-framed irrigational contraptions. CULT BAR

Gemba Chmielna 21

Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, the perches by the bar are the most sought, but spillover seating can also be found in a winter garden enclosed by green and scarlet drapes – very David Lynch. Drinks include a broad-minded selection of craft beers, house cocktails and shots. PRE-CLUB DRINKS Bar Pacyfik Hoża 61

Based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass cocktails! STUDENT CARNAGE Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos.

LIVE SPORTS

Shamrock Sports Bar Kurcza 51

At long last, Warsaw has the sports bar it deserves. Zapping in football, rugby and suchlike from around the world (but mainly Britain), this Irish-run spot is an off-shoot of the atmospheric Shamrock Irish Pub on Zgoda. Though a lot smarter than its sister, the raucous sense of fun has carried over – as has the quality Guinness. THE PRAGA VIBE

W Oparach W Absurdu Ząbkowska 6

Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a woodcarved bar.

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

CLUB OF THE YEAR K-Bar Powiśle Leona Kruczkowskiego

Providing an alternative to the usual Smolna / Luzztro / Jasna 1 scene, the location inside one of the pillars that prop up Poniatowskiego Bridge lends an ‘in the know’ frisson of adventure to your evening. Small, sweaty, raw and intimate, the industrial-style vibe is offset against oriental lanterns and the occasional Korean flag. Music-wise, and evenings promise everything from Italo-rave to techno trance. UPMARKET CLUBBING Sen Wioślarska 6

Some would say that Sen enjoys its heyday in the summer when the rooftop terrace

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Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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The Buzz opens to afford views of the illuminated bridges that span the river. But even outside these months it’s long enjoyed a reputation as Warsaw’s premier super-lux club. High class cocktails and a stringent door policy have helped maintain their name as the principal destination for glam, catwalk excess. SHOW TIME! Chaton Foksal 19

Chaton is where the celebs and top-earners gather to enjoy world class stage performers prance about whilst revelling in the bosom of refined luxury. DESTINATION COFFEE Café Pląs Puławska 113A (Królikarnia)

There’s two rooms to speak of, and both impress with their tall windows, high ceilings and vintage 60s design. Set inside the Króliarnia palace, it’s laidback and artsy-cool, something aided by the strategically placed plants, chillout beats and rare-find art books placed reverentially on the shelves. Specialty coffee, bio wines, alternative soft drinks and craft beer make it a highly versatile place to finish in after a brisk autumn walk around the palace grounds. COFFEE OF LEGEND Stor Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should

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also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy. FOR VINYL CHILLOUT

Hałas Elsterska 10

Divide Hałas into two sections: first, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Then, smuggled in the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. EXPERIMENTAL COFFEE Cophi Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale. COFFEE & CAKE Tonka Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes. FOR QUICK ESPRESSO Błysk Słowackiego 22

Served over a PRL era counter, Błysk’s super-tight

confines generate a natural air of familiarity. Often standing room only, the buzz and hubbub owes itself not just to the delicious espresso shots, but also the homemade cookies and dog-loving owners that will spoil your pet. HIDDEN STAR

El Cafatero Marszałkowska 27/35

Tucked behind the patinated domes and intricate steeples of Zbawiciela, chilling in this little café has you thinking you’re somewhere cute and quaint like Vilnius or Lublin. Specialising in roasting their own African coffees, the super-hip vibe is highlighted by the wall of Polaroid snaps. FOR DIGITAL NOMADS Typika Kolejowa 47

Espousing the Japandi style (an amalgam of Japanese and Scandinavian should your brain not be working), Typika’s floor-to-ceiling windows bathe this fashionably stark, split-level space in light no matter the season. Sparingly decorated, the blonde wood furnishings (check the blobshaped table!) and neon deer further emphasize the natural, refreshing feel. CHAMPION BREWS Forum Elektoralna 11

Forum has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, a friendly dog nuzzling around (hi Apollo!), and a client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get. Marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, these accolades say everything there is to know.

COURTESY OF MELT MUSEUM

COMPLETE MELTDOWN Is it actually right to call the Melt Museum a museum? Definitely not in the traditional sense, and probably not even in the contemporary sense either. So what is it? That’s a toughie. Billed as “a realm where silicon and soul coalesce”, it seeks to “showcase the symbiotic future of AI and humans.” Sorting through this PR-artsy babble, what that really means is a dozen or so ‘immersive spaces’ and just as many installations that play on changing light and sound. This is where “techno-utopia meets a cyberpunk vision of the future,” they say of their Artificial Dreams exhibition, and whilst that was set to close in December, we imagine that similar strangeness awaits in January. As photogenic as it is, it’s best to simply wander around in a state of gentle bewilderment – and as off-putting as the price might be to some (tickets begin at PLN 39 and reach PLN 69), have no doubt that, for Warsaw at least, the Melt Museum is one-of-a-kind. Melt Museum Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2A (Hotel Gromada), meltmuseum.com

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TOY STORY

Museum of Doll Houses Podwale 15, muzeumdomkow.pl

In one scene, a dishevelled writer lies clothed and collapsed on a bed surrounded by empty wine bottles and scrunched up papers. In another, blue-eyed, blond-haired girls exercise in a Nazi era gym facility. There is more. Medics surround a boy on a stretcher in a field hospital whilst bandaged patients implore to be seen; a nun lies

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stone dead in an open coffin awaiting burial; and a whiskered painter sits in stained overalls amid easels and brushes and artsy ephemera. As if it couldn’t get more surreal, attention switches to a school classroom of uniformed rats. Their diligence, you can tell, is being tested by the unruly behaviour of a rodent friend sequestered to a detention room. No, these are not snapshots from the weird daydreams we have on the bus into work,

rather just some of the exhibits to be found in The Dollhouse Museum. Staggering in their meticulous attention to detail, around 150 find themselves amassed insider this remarkable Old Town space. Faithfully restored by a team of artisans, these miniature worlds are the result of one woman’s obsession. Moved to give her daughter a present she would never forget, screenwriter and producer Aneta Popiel-Machnicka decided on a dollhouse.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

For a nostalgic journey into the past, the two branches of the Museum of Doll Houses, Games & Toys is an unmissable distraction…

Quickly, though, it dawned that to find one that met her specifications she would have to either build it herself or look beyond Poland’s borders for an antique to renovate. She chose the latter and accidentally uncorked what would become an enduring passion. A website dedicated to dollhouses followed, and then the establishment of a foundation focused on their rejuvenation. With her growing collection reaching critical mass, the launch of a museum was the next logical step. Intricate, dainty and delicate in their beauty, these are not the tacky Barbie houses one imagines, rather spectacular creations that are a paean to craftsmanship. Even more so, they serve as a fascinating glimpse into past, distant times: acting as what Popiel-Machnicka describes as a “historical freezeframe”, the houses and their habitants are a microscopic insight into everything from the culture and customs of yore to the architecture and fashion. With some 200-years-old, and others sourced from countries as far afield as the USA and Thailand, they come steeped in stories: for instance, the so-called “Miss Hope’s House”, built by a Polish pilot decorated for his wartime heroics with the RAF. Though its creator settled in England after WWII, the structure was returned to its author’s home country after being bought at auction and undergoing six-years of restoration. In a world dominated by CGI and dumbed down tourism, The Dollhouse Museum is something else entirely – to miss it, you miss something utterly unique.

The Museum of PRL Toys Krzywe Koło 2/4, muzeumdomkow.pl

An offshoot of the Doll House Museum, Part II of your return to childhood involves a tiny little room smuggled just off the corner of the Old Town’s Rynek. Entering what appears to be a gift store, visitors find themselves ducking through a cupboard before discovering an enchanting, small chamber kitted out with glass display cases. Now, depending on how much you like toys, you could spend either two minutes inside here, twenty-two, but the fact of the matter is that it takes a cold, flinty heart not to appreciate what’s in store. Divided themat-

ically, the exhibits mostly date from the 1970s and 80s, and include a vaguely sinister ‘Medikus Box’ filled with hospital implements. Made in the USSR, Czechoslovakia, Bulgaria, East Germany and Poland, other toy sets would have allowed kids to live the fantasy of being a hairdresser, a mother or a shopkeeper – dating to an era when many fruits were regarded as an exotic luxury, there is perhaps a little irony involved when seeing the pile of plastic oranges and grapes. Of course, also making its presence felt among the displays is an orange-tanned Liza / Lisa. With the Western Barbie doll only available at great expense in PEWEX stores, Liza / Lisa warsawinsider.pl

was the cut-price alternative, widely sold in street-side kiosks. As charming and intriguing as they are, for the most part the toys look a little grim and low in quality. However, there are exceptions, and that stands particularly true of some of the doll house furniture sets. More than just providing a snapshot of yesteryear’s living styles, the scaling, colouring and materials are executed with aplomb. One could easily be viewing an interior designer’s diorama – in fact, those thinking of opening a retro-themed bar could do worse than popping round here for a little bit of inspo. Quirky and engaging, it’s hard to resist this museum’s joyful charm.

JANUARY 14 / 19:00 RAFAŁ JACKIEWICZ QUARTET JANUARY 28 / 19:00 DAMASIEWICZ-WANIA

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@

aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Tatrzańska 5a

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

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18.12.2018 12:32

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan.

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with inte-

grated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@

aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

Values based Education, Nursery to Year 9 admissions@bswilanow.org ul. Hlonda 12 | Warsaw

bsw.com.pl +48 221 220 062

warsawinsider.pl

in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The THE BRITISH school continuesSCHOOL to meet the prinWARSAW ciples of Maria Montessori through Delivering an inclusive, rigorous implementing the IB Diploma and high-quality British education Program principles and practices. in a diverse and caring environWarsaw Montessori High School ment, mission ofIBTBS is to balance is an authorized World School academic success with character for the Diploma Programme – code building and well-being. Students 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. at The British School Warsaw 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average.

shopping experiences

ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA 3281, thebritishschool.pl Białołęka’s first major shopping

center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and THE PRIMARY someENGLISH of the best kid’s facilities on The English Primary is designed Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida specifically for children in the 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

primary education just as KLIF HOUSE OFages, FASHION

children experience in England Warsaw’s original luxury shopping but in an international center has a line-up ofcommunity. top boutiques Pupils are taken the & key that include Maxthrough Mara, Paul Shark learning stages so that they canklif.pl and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, achieve to the best of their ability throughUNII a fun learning experience. PLAC The Core Curriculum One of Warsaw’s latestsubjects mall counts include Jeans, English, Phonics, Science, Armani Liu-Jo and Pandora Mathematics, French, tenants. PE and Swimamongst its upmarket ul. ming, Music, Personal, Social and Puławska 2, placunii.pl Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 MYSIA 3 808, tep.edu.pl

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion THE CANADIAN in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt SCHOOL vinyl store, Japanese fashionOF WARSAW and accessories from Muji and INTERNATIONsunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. AL ELEMENTARY AND After, check into Reginbar for cooling MIDDLE cocktails in SCHOOL a hip atmosphere. ul. Located on two campuses in the Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Mokotów this is the only authorized IB SchoolSAWA with PYP programs taught WARS JUNIOR in Englishlocated, and Polish. French is Centrally perks of Wars taughtJunior as a third language. Offers Sawa include Poland’s only a wide and range extra activities, a in Uniqlo theoflargest adidas store summer school, and employs a the country. full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and WESTFIELD ARKADIA English support. International staff, Not many Polish malls do it better.

cultural andinclude challenging Stores inevents this giant Mango, student createand the perfect Lacoste,initiatives Guess, Hilfiger Peek & Bełska learning environment. Cloppenburg. Al. Jana ul. Pawła II 82, 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, westfield.com secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW canadian-school.pl Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister,

Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

VITKAC THE INTERNATIONAL Poland’s first luxury department store TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF gathers the world’s top designers WARSAW under one roof, with brands including

Established in 1994, The Trilingual Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, School of Warsaw offers nursery, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone primary, andRick pre-school Island and Owens. education Further with an international curriculum features include a rooftop restaurant. for from one to 15. ul. children Bracka 9,aged vitkac.com The full immersion trilingual setting allows forTARASY the choice between ZŁOTE English, Polish, Spanishas oraChinese, Seen from the outside giant French or Japanese. are glass bubble, sellingTeachers points here highly-qualified native speakers include a Multikino cinema, a from the US, France, China of Calypso fitness club,Spain, and a branch and Japan.Rock ul. Nobla (tel. 501 036 the Hard Café.16 Stores include 637), ul. Karowa 503Hugo 072 high-end brands14/16 at Van(tel. Graaf, 119), Krolowej (tel. 533 Boss,ul. Guess and Aldony Victoria’s Secret. 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie edu.pl Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education.

ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences,

shopping experiences

while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów

4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for

787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. . ul. Mysia

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

3, mysia3.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

6 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

ska kow

szał Mar

Nati Stad

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Palace of Culture & Science

Pros

skie

lim rozo

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3 1

Łazienki Park

19 km

4 km

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

ional dium

MAP 5

shopping Vitkac experiences ul. Bracka 9, 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

likusconceptstore.pl

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

museums

sport

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

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Looking Back AN ICON REMEMBERED

orn in 1939 in Stare Wasiliszki, Niemen first found fame playing in student unions around Poland before reaching the next level with a band named Niebiesko-Czarni. It was during a whistle-stop international tour with this group that he abandoned his natural surname, Wydrzycki, in favour of the more pronounceable Niemen. His star was rising, and in 1964 he was chosen to open for Marlene Dietrich when she performed in the Palace of

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2024

Culture – so taken was she by the bard, that she later covered one of the songs that he had written. Mixing elements of avant-garde jazz and psychedelic rock with progressive sounds and folkish influences, his sound was utterly unique. With the swinging sixties plunging the world into an era of unprecedented social turmoil, Niemen was able to emerge in his own right, and it was his acceptance of Western styles, trends and sounds that made him a figurehead of the Polish avant-garde. Poetic in his lyrics, experimental in his music and maverick by his very nature, he captured the zeitgeist in a way no other Polish artist was capable of. Released in 1966, his album Dziwny jest ten świat shifted an estimated 150,000 copies, and in the process became the first Polish record to hit gold. However, it is for his song Sen o Warszawie (Dream About Warsaw) that he remains bestknown. A stirring ballad inspired by the construction of the new post-war housing estates, it remains anthemic to this day and is traditionally sung with great gusto before every Legia Warsaw home game. Passing away from cancer in 2004, Warsaw’s adopted son was cremated and his ashes interred in a niche in Powązki Cemetery.

NAC

Revered as one of Poland’s greatest cultural icons of modern times, January 17th marks the 20th anniversary of the death of Czesław Niemen…

GREY WOLF

WARSAW 2023 NOWY ŚWIAT 55 | ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 49

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