Warsaw Insider July 2022 #311

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

SUMMER NIGHTS!

Warsaw’s unmissable outdoor drink spots – p. 28

#311

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JULY 2022 Features:

Also...

Books: Hoża, my street – p. 26 Photography: Adam Borkowski – p. 16 Old Town: unsung museums – p. 23

Back in time: Art Box Experience – p. 48 Park watch: Ujazdowski – p. 12 The City: The Marriott Spiderman – p. 20

Contents July 2022

Reviews: Święci z Bostonu Burger Bar – p. 33 Tajka – p. 36 Rydygiera 9 – p. 38 Nocny Market – p. 40 Boca Boca - Vegan Guilty Pleasure – p. 42

DISCOVER

Praga Museum Celina Osiecka exhibition – p. 63 Designer Outlet Warszawa Sporting Style – p. 66

COVER PHOTO BY ADAM BORKOWSKI, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

Royal Łazienki Museum Family Painting Area In The Old Guardhouse – p. 68

JUNE ENDED with a rather alarming sight: Russian tanks standing at the very gates of Warsaw’s Old Town. Fortunately for us, however, this military hardware had already been cooked to a crisp on the front lines of Ukraine. Part of a travelling exhibition, the frazzled equipment nonetheless served as a timely reminder as to the realities of the war. But whilst the poisonous doings of Putin continue to cast a shadow across the civilized world, life has continued in Warsaw, albeit in a manner a little more strained than previously seen. Not that you’d know that once the clock strikes our favorite hour of all – beer o’clock. For that reason, we’re delighted to bring you our definitive guide to summer drinking (well, we say definitive, but our stringent page count means to see our full guide you’ll need to check our website). Elsewhere, we’ve scoped out the unsung museums of the historic center, caught up with one of the geezers that climbed the Marriott, checked out the Celina Osiecka exhibition and discovered the best book about Warsaw to be published this year. Oh, and we were also on hand to watch Polonia finally win promotion on around the zillionth time of asking. It’s a banger of an issue, and I hope you enjoy it. Adios! Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Content Editor Krystyna Spark kspark@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In front

VISUALIZATIONS COURTESY OF UM.WARSZAWA

SPORT

Down But Not Out! Warsaw’s iconic Skra stadium has been handed a second life after City Hall announced plans for its revival…

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In front • news

or years it was little more than a rotting relic of the past, but now one of Poland’s most celebrated stadiums stands to be handed a new lease of life after City Hall confirmed the first stage of its regeneration. Set in the top corner of Warsaw’s Ochota district, Skra had first been earmarked to become a sports complex by the city’s visionary mayor, Stefan Starzyński. The outbreak of WWII saw those plans shelved, and for the duration of the occupation the grounds served as the home of a Nazi anti-aircraft battery. Despite sustaining heavy damage towards the end of the war, peacetime saw the plot swiftly repurposed as a speed-

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

way track. But whilst speedway was to take off in many parts of Poland, the Warsaw public never truly warmed to the sport; aware of this flagging interest, city authorities recruited Jerzy Wasilewski and Mikołaj Kokozow to design an athletics stadium. Holding 35,000 spectators, this horseshoe-shaped arena was officially inaugurated in 1953 and was hailed as the most modern sports facility in the nation. Over the following decades it became central to Polish Olympic hopes, with a fleet of sporting legends all training here – among them, Władysław Kozakiewicz, a pole vaulter that hit international headlines during the 1982 Olympics when he made an

‘up yours’ gesture to a hostile Moscow crowd. But dark days were around the corner. When Communism crumbled the Skra stadium lost its government funding and rapidly slid into decline. Little more than a concrete ruin, the sporting media were outraged after learning that “the greatest hammer thrower of all time”, Anita Włodarczyk, was training in such dismal conditions. Finally though, Skra is to return from the grave after the city confirmed Phase 1 of its redevelopment. Forecast to climb as high as PLN 500 million, the investment will ultimately also see the construction of a 25,000-seater stadium as well as a 7,000-seater basketball arena.

WIKICOMMONS

Skra sports complex in the 1980s

In front • news MONUMENT

Lords Of The Fries! Kept under wraps for the last few months, Warsaw’s latest monument was finally unveiled in June – only to be immediately lambasted by critics. Likened to a giant French fry, and set with unintended irony just yards from the nearest McDonald’s, the sculpture was actually created to commemorate “Poland’s peaceful revolution of 1989” whilst emphasizing the role played by the St. Adalbert countries (Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and the Czech Republic) in the fall of the Berlin Wall. Made from Corten steel, and measuring 2.65 meters in height, see it for yourself on the corner of Świętokrzyska and Kopernika.

CITY

The Polish edition of Vogue has again scandalized the conservatives after publishing two covers featuring same-sex couples enjoying a snog. Posters hung on Mokotowska street to promote the issue swiftly found themselves defaced in an act that activists say highlighted the country’s reputation as the EU’s most homophobic country. However, the vandalism backfired somewhat, with LGBT+ protestors – including a TVP presenter – gathering the next day to hold a ‘kiss-in’ in defiance.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Off The Wall

MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

In front • news

WEATHER

sk any new arrival or first-timer and they’ll all say the same: “Why did no-one tell me that Poland got so hot?” Summer here can be cruel and unrelenting, especially as we reach those hardcore weeks in July and August. Locked firmly away from the mountains south and the coastline to the north, Warsaw suffers more than most, with the soaring temperatures often meaning that anything but undies are surplus to require-

CITY

No Time For Loo-sers

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

ments. But that’s nothing new, as proven by this cracking throwback taken at Legia’s swimming pool complex in July, 1936. But it is 2019 that remains the year to remember. Judged the hottest the country has seen since records began in 1781, 2019 saw the Wisła River’s water level fall to an all-time low of just 34 centimeters.

With temperatures hitting 37 degrees Celsius in some parts of Poland back in June, fears are already growing of another brutal heatwave to match anything seen before. Stay cool people, stay cool!

Organized by bathroom firm Geberit, a competition to design a new toilet for Wilanów Park & Palace concluded in June with the winning entry authored by Dominik Pierzchlewicz, Kuba Zajusz and Tomasz Bachórz. Titled Subtilitas, the trio’s project was praised by the jury panel for the way in which it integrates with its historical surroundings. Set to be built in the northern section of the Royal Gardens, next to the Orangery, the project beat off competition from over 100 other entrants. Held for the 24th time, the competition has previously found lavatorial solutions for Warsaw’s Łazienki Park as well as the Tatra National Park.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE TOP NAC, BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL (2) OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

Hot Stuff!

CITY

Tanks A Lot!

omprising of rockets, a T-72 tank and a 2S19 Msta-S self-propelled howitzer, the exhibition was opened by the head of the Chancellery of the Prime Minister, Michał Dworczyk, and the deputy minister of national defense of Ukraine, Hanna Ma-

liar. At the inauguration, Maliar emphasized that the exhibition was beginning in Poland because Ukraine’s neighbor had proved itself to be her country’s “closest partner and friend”. Dworczyk, meanwhile, said that the installation was proof that Russia could be defeated. As things stand, plans are

afoot for similar exhibitions in other European cities, among them Berlin, Paris, Madrid and Lisbon. According to organizers, the Pl. Zamkowy exhibition could last until the end of the summer holidays in September after which the vehicles will be taken on tour around the rest of the country.

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SPORT

And They’re Back! After years spent in the doldrums, June saw Polonia Warszawa clinch promotion to finally dig themselves out of the regional leagues…

ine years after the club were booted out of the top flight due to financial prattery, fans of Polonia Warszawa have finally been given cause to celebrate after earning promotion out of the fourth tier. Achieved in the most dramatic of fashions, Polonia’s top place finish has, in the process, sparked hopes of an overdue rebirth. Crowned Polish champions at the beginning of the millennium, the last decade has provided little cause to cheer with

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Warsaw’s oldest football club seemingly wheeling from one catastrophe to the next. In 2020, however, the ship was steadied with the arrival of Grégoire Nitot, an IT tycoon who pledged to restore the club to the Ekstraklasa by 2030. Denied promotion last year after finishing a disappointing fourth, this season saw Polonia kick-off as runaway favorites to land the title. A slow start though handed the initiative to Legionovia Legionowo who headed the table right until

the penultimate match of the season – a six-pointer played at Polonia. Drawing Polonia’s biggest crowd for years, the match proved an epic see-saw clash with the home side grabbing the winner deep into injury time. On a night of high emotion, Polonia’s dramatic 3-2 win sparked wild scenes of celebration – in the packed stands, it was as if nine years of suffering had been exorcised in an instant. Going top for the first time in the season, Polonia then sealed the title – and with it promotion – in their final game against relegated Wissa Szczuczyn. With the feel good factor well and truly back, Polonia’s long-suffering followers have been given further reason to look forward to the future with news that City Hall have begun the process of finding a private sector backer to transform the antique ground into a state-ofthe-art 15,500-seater stadium befitting of the 21st century. Should things proceed as planned, the development contract should be signed next year. Exciting as the wider picture might be, it is the months ahead that promise the most excitement – having spent years playing backwater minnows in Poland’s footballing dungeon, fans will be looking forward to resuming rivalries against long-established clubs, among them Olimpia Elbląg – a team that enjoys a close friendship with Legia Warszawa – and the likes of Motor Lublin, Stomil Olsztyn and GKS Jastrzębie. Kicking-off in mid-July, hopes are already high that the upcoming season will signal a new chapter in the club’s history.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE ALEX WEBBER

In front • news

In front • park watch

A deeper look at one of Warsaw’s most perfect parks…

nce home to a small village, Ujazdowski later served as a military parade ground (the Field of Mars) towards the end of the last King of Poland’s reign. Once Warsaw fell under Tsarist rule, it switched to a more playful role and became

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

home to an annual summer fair. What you see now, however, is the product of a late 19th century landscape project conducted by Franciszek Szanior, the Chief Municipal Gardener of the era. His efforts remain as spellbinding now as they must have been back then.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ujazdowski

Declare Your Love

Yes, exactly that. Spanning a little rock pool, find a teeny weeny humpbacked bridge. Often embellished with lovelocks, it was constructed by William Lindley, the same dude responsible for the town’s sewer system (and thirty others in Europe, including Prague and Budapest). Made from reinforced concrete, it was only the second bridge in the world to use such raw materials.

Weigh In

That green cabin you see looks inconspicuous, but it’s got quite a claim to fame – actually containing weighing scales inside, it’s one of only two such facilities that exist in the world! Displayed at the 1900 Paris World Fair, previous users include Charles de Gaulle. According to urban legend, its interior offers the safest refuge in the city!

Count Off The Statues

There’s a few stunners here, including the nude and swooning Ewa (designed by Edward Witting, a former student of Rodin) which was deemed so controversial at the time that it sparked city-wide outrage. Others include a Gladiator sculpted in 1880 and a naked Perseus standing triumphantly on the head of a Medusa. Lastly, say hello to Ignacy Jan Paderewski. Unveiled just before WWII, the Germans had intended to melt this likeness of the Prime Minister only to find the monument had been dismantled and hidden – it was returned to the park in 1985.

The Natural World

As one of Warsaw’s most pristine parks, Ujazdowski's greatest glories are its natural wonders – filled with Norwegian maples, English oaks, Austrian pines and black walnut trees, these are interspersed with stunning rose gardens and flowerbeds. In the waters, try and spot the monstrous carp wriggling around.

Water Wonders!

Ujazdowski’s pond was opened in 1896 and can be regarded as the star attraction – flanked by the park’s premier kiss spot, the gazebo, its depth reaches 1.6 meters in parts. Playing a patriotic role during WWII, locals used the lake’s waters during the Siege of Warsaw when they found their water supply cut off. warsawinsider.pl

The Party Is Here! With summer in full swing, it’s likely you’ll spend at least one night drinking in and around Poland’s former Commie HQ... 14

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Standing behind the figure of Charles de Gaulle, it would take a case of river blindness not to notice the box-like building that looms beyond the Frenchman. Completed in 1951 to serve as ‘the house of the Party’, this was to all intents and purposes the beating heart of Polish communism right up until that all collapsed in 1989. Designed by a group of architects collectively known as ‘the tigers’, the official ribbon cutting took place on July 22nd, a national holiday celebrated by flag-waving parades. Funded by ‘good will donations’ eeked out of the Polish public, it was built to visually slot in with the National Museum

PHOTOGRAPH THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

In front • building spotlight

next door. Pleasing the press, it was immediately dubbed “one of the most beautiful buildings in Warsaw”. Something of an experiment in propaganda and patriotism, all the raw materials were exclusively Polish, with the one exception being the steps outside – the stone for those was sourced from Hindenburg’s mausoleum in Grunwald. Yet whilst it may have looked modest from the outside, behind the façades it was anything but – closed off to the public, the inner courtyard was reserved for party limousines. Entrance B, meanwhile, was marked as Bolesław Bierut’s own private entrance.

The perks set aside for Poland’s first commie premier did not end there and he could also count on his own private cinema as well as a personal lift cranked manually by some poor sod. Bierut’s mysterious death in 1956 was a keynote moment and his body was laid out in one of the halls – according to one urban myth, a janitor mistook the coffin for firewood and attempted to chisel it into pieces. On realizing his mistake, the bloke fled the capital and was never heard of again. This was not the only rumor attached to the building, and for years speculation ran rife that it was connected to Central Station via a secret rail tunnel. Though this has since been refuted, surprises from the past still can be found – just a few years back, the Insider discovered a giant bust of Lenin squirreled away in the underground carpark. For all that, the building has undergone a dramatic spiritual U-turn. Once a powerful and foreboding symbol of state socialism, for a brief while it acted as the home of the fledgling Warsaw Stock Exchange. Later, it saw another revolution, this time when it became the home of the city’s first multitap craft beer bar, Cuda Na Kiju. Nor does the story end there. In the most beautiful irony of all, the house of the party has become exactly that – now infilled with bars and clubs, visit at the weekend to learn what it means to be a millennial hedonist. warsawinsider.pl

In The Spotlight: Adam Borkowski Hailed for his stunning use of light and epic downtown shots, we take a seat with this month’s cover photographer, Adam Borkowski…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADAM BORKOWSKI EXCEPT PORTRAIT THIS PAGE BY @MUSTACHE_LENS

Cover Star

WI: Is Warsaw easy to photograph? AB: Yes and no. It is easy compared to other Polish cities, but I still think it is not as easy as, for example, London, NYC, Chicago, etc. I think the center is very photogenic and so too the more distant points that overlook the heart of the city, but recently we’ve seen a lot of photographers enter the scene – it’s becoming harder and harder to find a unique frame. What do you love photographing about the city? I love the fact that there are so many elements right at hand – people, the cityscape, super cars, neon signs, skyscrapers, and much, much more. I like the fact that even though I have been photographing the same city for years, it’s still dynamically changing. I love that the city offers so many possibilities. Would it be right to say that the center is your principal stamping ground? Yes, downtown and the areas around it. Also, I do like a few spots outside the center that offer views of the skyline. In winter when I focus only on night shots I photograph pretty much exclusively downtown. Are there any secret places you love photographing from? I don’t really know any secret places. Usually I shoot publicly accessible places, albeit showing them in a personal way that I hope is unique. I like the area around Rondo ONZ and Rondo Daszyńskiego. Recently I’ve become fond on Rondo Dmowskiego as well. Anyone who enjoys my work can visit the same places I do and try their own hand at photographing them. warsawinsider.pl

Cover Star What have you learned about the city since you started photographing it? I've learned that just because a place has been photographed by a lot of different people, it doesn’t mean you can’t do something new there yourself. I’ve also learned that cities change so quickly that the same place can look different one hundred times over depending on the light, weather, framing, etc. And, it goes without saying, I’ve learned to value patience. Sometimes it’s worth waiting around as even a seemingly boring place can sometimes change into something beautiful if you wait around for an extra ten minutes. What makes a good photograph? Framing and composition – these are the most important thing in my opinion because they are the least subjective. Exposure can be corrected during the editing process, colors can be completely recreated in Lightroom or Photoshop – but if the composition is not right, nothing can help an image. Colors and light are also important, but where those are concerned every viewer will have their own preference. The better composed photo is the better one and processing is just the icing on the cake. Do you plan your shots? Some yes, some no. Sometimes I have an idea for a shot and I do some planning. But mostly I like to go out and rely on what happens to me on the way. I’m out on the town way too often to have a plan each and every time.

For more on Adam, check his page at: unsplash.com/@borkography

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

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Chasing The High Cheered on by a crowd of hundreds down below, the end of May saw two French climbers become the latest daredevils to scale the Warsaw Marriott without any equipment. We catch up with Alexis Landot, one half of the duo, to find out the story behind the story…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

WI: First off, why Warsaw! Why the Warsaw Marriott? AL: It’s an iconic building. Alain Robert climbed it in 1999, and since then a few Polish climbers have also done so as well – it’s wellknown within our small urban climbing community and it’s a very interesting challenge from the climbing perspective. Some skyscrapers are too hard, others are too easy – this one was the perfect mix. And, of course, it’s a beautiful building.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY MATEUSZ CZECH

It was widely reported that you were fined PLN 500 upon reaching the top. Typically, how do the police react to your escapades? Penalties vary from country to country – in some places we don’t really experience any problems whatsoever, while in other countries the fines can be quite heavy. Usually the police though understand that we’re passionate about what we’re doing – we’re not vandalizing the property of anything like that.

trying lots of Polish vodka after! Do you ever get distracted by the people looking out of the windows? Usually not, but that’s because I’ve trained myself not to be. If you stay focused you don’t allow for distractions – you place all your attention and energy on your movements. That said, if I’m feeling confident then I will let myself look around a bit more. With the Warsaw Marriott I felt really good so did wave at the people inside. You’re friends must think you’re mad! Well, my family for sure knows that I’m not crazy. They understand that I need this kind of activity. How do you train? I spend as much time as possible training and around

walls, both climbing walls and skyscrapers. I train a lot at my climbing gym and also at night on local skyscrapers. I don’t go high, but rather just practice my movements on them – going up two meters, down two meters, up two meters and down… I’m guessing you’ve always loved climbing… My dad first took me to a climbing gym when I was seven – he’d had enough of seeing me climbing around the streets where I lived. Three years ago though, I realized I wanted something more. I grew up being able to see a skyscraper from my window, and I always dreamed of climbing it so I went ahead and did it. I was tired of waiting. When I did it, it felt so natural. How many buildings have you climbed?

How about Warsaw… The police were very nice to us. I think they were confused at first as to why we chose to do it, but after speaking to them they were really cool about it – they realized this was an extreme sport and we were simply doing what we love. Of course, we still had to pay the fine! And what happened next – do you celebrate a climb with a beer!? Normally I don’t drink alcohol. Climbs are celebrated with a good meal or time with my friends and girlfriend. In Warsaw though, I couldn’t resist warsawinsider.pl

Interview

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Probably around 15, but I’ve stopped counting. Some mean a lot, others though are less memorable because they’re easy. What are your climbing ambitions – are there any towers you dream of conquering? A lot! Me and my friend Leo Urban (who climbed the Marriott with me) would love to tick off the Tour Areva in France, but it’ll probably always remain just a dream – it’s practically impossible to climb, and even if you’re welltrained the chances of falling remain incredibly high. Alain Robert (a.k.a. The French Spiderman) has done it, but it’s a crazy climb that’s very dangerous. You mention Alain Robert – he was the first one to scale the Warsaw Marriott. Is he an inspiration? Absolutely, and also now a friend. A few months ago myself, Leo and another climber, BNT, climbed Tour Total in France together, and that was a great experience. When he heard Leo and myself were heading to Poland he wished us luck, before adding “you don’t need luck, so instead I’ll wish you ‘good strength’.” He was quick to congratulate us after. Finally, aside from a head for heights, what are the qualities you need to pull off a tower climb? The mental aspect is crucial. You need to be able to keep focused. You need a cool head. It’s vital you don’t listen to your emotions and, above all else, never panic!

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Don’t Try This At Home! For the sake of clarity, the Insider does not condone or encourage illegal feats such as climbing the Marriott; those thinking of doing so themselves stand to pay the ultimate penalty – death. Instead, try a safer buzz – Warsaw has several climbing walls, the following of which come highly recommended: Climbing Arena Macaque

Palisadowa 20/22, arenamakak.pl

Climbing Center Murall Annopol 3, murall.pl

OnSight Centrum Wspinaczkowe Obozowa 60, obozowa.waw.pl

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE @ELOUEN_LA_BALEINE, OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK, TOP ED WIGHT

It’s vital you don’t listen to your emotions and, above all else, never panic

Heritage Interpretation Center This unsung gem is one of Old Town’s true highlights – telling the story behind the area’s wartime destruction, and subsequent rebuilding, it handles the subject with care, detail and attention. Presenting shattered bits of masonry recovered from the rubble, as well as post-war plans and renderings, it’s a beautiful place that also slays plenty of oft-repeated myths – e.g., that Canaletto’s 18th century paintings of Warsaw were essential to architects looking to recreate the Warsaw that was. Finish by watching a slideshow featuring Old Town images shot in the groovy 60s. Brzozowa 11/13, muzeumwarszawy.pl

HIDDEN TREASURES!

Naturally, visitors to Warsaw’s Old Town concentrate their sightseeing efforts on the Museum of Warsaw – but beyond this excellent institution lurk a host of other beautiful museums that sit under the radar… Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature Regarded as the nation’s greatest writer, the Museum of Literature presents a motherlode of artefacts related to this romantic hero, including preserved manuscripts and 19th century portraits of ‘the Slavic Byron’. Other bits and pieces that may arouse interest include his travel trunk, first editions of his works and furniture that once belonged to him. Heavy in its subject matter, its content will please Mickiewicz’s more committed fans but may challenge others. Rynek Starego Miasta 20, muzeumliteratury.pl

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Old Town Museums

LAST CHANCE

Barbican Museum

Antonina Leśniewska Museum of Pharmacy Presenting 2,500 antiquities, including inter-war lab equipment, 19th century crystal and porcelain jars and cobalt cylinders for the storage of cognacs and aromatic waters, this fine little secret of a museum delivers more than you can expect. Of the star attractions, look out for a 16th century botanical atlas by Simon Syrnius, glow-in-the-dark uranium jars, and a hidden cabinet filled with narcotics. With all the bottled potions knocking around, it’s not too far-fetched to imagine yourself in Dumbledore’s workshop! Piwna 31/33, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2022

Open only during summer, the museum inside the Barbican – the crowning jewel of the Old Town’s defensive walls – limits itself to old photographs and displays that regale its story. Completed after the advent of artillery, in practical terms it’s always been largely obsolete in its use but the tales behind both it and the walls around might be of interest to your inner nerd. Ultimately, the biggest appeal lies in creaking over the floorboards, peering from the slit windows, squeezing up narrow stairwells and following the narrow corridors – walking inside the bowels of this brick fortification is the biggest thrill of all, and in itself worth the meagre PLN 6 fee. Barbakan (ul. Nowomiejska), muzeumwarszawy.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE LEFT PRESS MATERIAL (2), RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL

Magda Bielesz's exhibition "I feel safe among medicines" runs until July 3rd.

Dollhouse Museum Despite its premise, you don’t need to be a child to enjoy the Dollhouse Museum – gathering 150 such exhibits from around the world (the oldest being 200-years-old), these miniature worlds are more than a paean to craftsmanship. Described by the museum’s founder as “historical freezeframes”, the houses and their habitants are a microscopic insight into everything from the culture and customs of yore to architecture and fashion. Often enchanting, each house has its own story. Of note, the museum has a separate branch for temporary exhibits on Krzywe Koło 2/4 – currently, that means a display of wacky toys from the Communist period. Podwale 15, muzeumdomkow.pl

TEMPORARY EXHIBITION Zabawa w Dom A collection of favorite toys from the communist era

General Ryszard Kukliński Museum Of all of Old Town’s museums, perhaps this is the easiest to miss – but then and again, it’s secretive nature suits the subject. A double agent and defector, Ryszard Kukliński was a high ranking Polish officer in the employ of the CIA at the height of the Cold War. This museum pieces together his life story, including his daring escape and huge contribution to the avoidance of WWIII. The personal keepsakes though are the most touching; overseen by the son of a former high-profile dissident, it includes a letter from the then five-year-old child to his jailed father. Kanonia 20/22, generalkuklinski.com warsawinsider.pl

The Hoża Insider

A book written from the heart, ‘Hoża – my street’ by Paweł Kłudkiewicz has become the essential pick-up of the summer…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

PORTRAIT THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PACKSHOTS OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF PAWEŁ KŁUDKIEWICZ

Summer Book Pick

A work of extraordinary depth and integrity, ‘Hoża – my street’ refuses to be defined. Is it a guidebook? Sort of. But it is so much more than that. Authored by Paweł Kłudkiewicz, it’s the story of a street told through an intensely personal lens. Reading it, and admiring the fun and funky illustrations, you feel Kłudkiewicz’s voice coming through. More specifically, you feel, almost, as if he’s actually right next to you. This journey into his world is easy to make – such is the detail, the author takes us into his housing block, and even into his apartment: “When I look out [from my window], I see a car park, a tree lane and a succession of shops… During the day, there’s always some noisy renovation going on or a new signboard being installed.” Riddled with personal observations, Kłudkiewicz continues to wryly comment on the constant honking of horns and slamming of doors; of the refuse lorries that clang down the streets and “the mechanical clicking of suitcase wheels”. On the streets, meanwhile, we meet an assembly of local characters – Mr. Uniform, for instance, an elderly man who hobbles around in a jacket adorned “with hundreds of pins, orders and embellishments”. Yes, I’ve seen him myself, you find yourself saying. There’s a familiarity here that goes beyond Kłudkiewicz’s informal, revelatory style. It’s a Warsaw that we can all recognize. But beyond the private reflections and casual remarks, the book is also pitted with nuggets of information and historical facts. We learn about some of the Polish greats that have lived in these ends (step forward Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz),

step inside legendary dives like the Drink Bar, and discover the hidden architectural glories of Hoża and beyond. “It’s worth paying attention to the building at Hoża 58,” the author tells the Insider. “It’s a postmodern block from around 2000, but when one looks closer you’ll find that the architects incorporated the preserved gate of a 19th century tenement into the new building. And then you have the raw brick Serwar factory – operating until 2010, today it’s worth going deeper into its courtyard to find great ice cream and coffee as well a number of art studios.” A unique micro district, this section of Warsaw comes vibrantly alive in this book. “This street is Warsaw in a nutshell,” Kłudkiewicz says. “Though only 1.5 kilometers in length, you have everything from undisturbed pre-war buildings, to Communist era architecture to contemporary blocks. Within half-an-hour of walking the street, you’ve caught the atmosphere of the entire capital city.” Heavily mined with old-fashioned two-color illustrations, these bring a visual impact to his words. A loving tribute to his area, it’s a book in which the clashes and contrasts of Warsaw come richly to life. “I really like the small hipster businesses on Hoża, but also that you can still find old places where you can repair your shoes… and there’s so many surprising stories to be found – this is where the US Secretary of State Zbigniew Brzeziński was born, and also where Leopold Infeld, a longtime collaborator of Albert Einstein, worked.” Tender in its sentiment, yet also highly informative, it’s a book that makes you feel like… well, a Warsaw insider…

Hoża, my street is priced at PLN 65 and can be bought at Bęc Zmiana on Mokotowska 65 or online at: sklep.beczmiana.pl

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We’ve Got That Summer Feelin’! This July, let’s not even pretend that anyone is going to be working – it’s all about being cool while keeping cool in the city’s hottest seasonal bars… from sky high legends to hidden treasures, we bring you the places that you can’t afford to miss!

Miami Wars

Na Lato

Gardens & Greenery Café Podrygi Al. Jerzolimskie 3

Past an open pair of wrought iron gates, and up a neatly pebbled path, visitors find themselves sauntering into the neatly clipped gardens of the National Museum – the pristine immensity of what lies ahead is striking, and even more so when the modernist architecture is illuminated at night. Such is the power of the backdrop, Podrygi don’t need to do much with their outdoor decorations, and as such keep it simple with black decking and a couple of hammocks bookending the seats. Aimed at a grown-up crowd, the drinks are grown-

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

“ A classic of modern times, it would have been criminal to overlook Na Lato in our summer round up

up: classic cocktails and some great wines – as you would expect from a place owned by Ale Wino and Muzealna. Miami Wars Bulwar Zaruskiego

When it comes to outdoor drinking, the riverfront has no equal: it is here that Warsaw parties once temperatures hit Gas Mark Six. The waterfront choice runs into silly figures, but for most it is Miami Wars that defines the season. Awesome in its size, it’s the quintessential experience: a place of noise and action in a complex fitted out with wooden decks, comfortable nooks, waterside views and lush bursts of greenery – this is not the Poland you may have grown up with! Na Lato Rozbrat 44

Café Podrygi

ALL PHOTOS PRES MATERIAL EXCEPT TOP RIGHT BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Pokój na lato

A classic of modern times, it would have been criminal to overlook Na Lato in our summer round up. A place of bubbles and beauties this rich and pretty hangout guns for a top class crowd and that’s precisely what you’ll find in their so-called Chandon Secret Garden. Luxuriously appointed with orange trees and orange-colored lanterns, the clinking glasses and popping corks suggest the feel of a well-to-do garden party, but the atmosphere racks up once darkness falls and the dancing begins. Pokój na lato Grzybowska 79

Sandwiched between the epic Rising Museum and one of Wola’s main arteries, The Summer Room actually feels far more secluded that its mapping suggests – climb the wooden stairs and you enter a world cut off from outside forces: stepping into various light, timber chambers, visitors traipse past a plant ‘hotel’, wicker bubble seats dangling from ropes, suspended plant pots and different corners in which to chill. Concerts, workshops, culinary classes, author meets and yoga sessions add texture to this venue, though queuing times at the bar can become irksome. warsawinsider.pl

Summer feelin'

Roofs & Views Ether Chmielna 71 (NYX Hotel)

Floor 19 is the destination, and once there you’ll find yourself right up next to the Varso Tower – a skyscraper that likes to pretend it’s the tallest in the EU (and it is, if you count the transmitter). Downers include the lack of table service (at least on our visit) and, even worse, the absence of a bathroom – get caught short and you’ll be taking the lift back to Floor No. 1. Tables, too, are in short supply even during off-peak hours. What’s to like? The cocktails justify the prices (you’re looking at a starting point of PLN 45) and the views are a killer. Positioned so you catch the best of the sunset falling over the CBD, watching the night slide in can be a beautiful experience. Havana Słowackiego 16/18

Whereas Warsaw’s other sky bars fill with aspiring George Clooney lookalikes (y’know, big watches, white shirts, Merc keys jangling), you get the idea that Havana would be happy if Pete Doherty walked in with a crumpled hat and a cig dangling from his lip. The least dressiest of our selection, this neighborhood legend has a design that rhymes well with the 60s tower it’s found

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Havana

in. Indoors, find its atmospheric interior clad with retro-style, light wood finishes, poster art and plants. Outdoors, discover a L-shaped floor space, half of which is covered, the other half exposed and welcoming of smokers (woohoo!). The views are pretty uninspiring (a tramline and some kiosks), but the vibe is something special – and in an added plus, it’s got the best selection of drinks from the lot: a fridge of craft swigs, trendy bio wines, smoothies, specialty coffee, weird lemonades and interesting cocktails. It’s well worth travelling north just for a night out at this place. Loreta Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Loreta channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup – a sophisticated mix of whisky, agave, chili and lemon. Good as these signature drinks are, the best bet is to challenge the gunslingers at the bar to make something a little more personal. Of all the rooftop bars in Warsaw, the view here is probably the worst, but for us it’s actually the best central sky bar of the lot.

ALL PHOTOS PRESS MATERIAL EXCEPT TOP RIGHT BY ALEX WEBBER

Ether

Loreta

Sen Wioślarska 6

The number of good lookers that flock here is simply off-the-scale. Don’t dare use the words “you should be a model” as a chat-up line, for the answer you’ll receive is “actually I am”. Set on the top floor of a riverside development, the open terrace offers even more to feast your eyes on: right ahead, the twin sight of the National Stadium and Poniatowski Bridge steal the show. Although only four floors up, it feels so much higher. Watching the boulevards below teeming with life is a joy in itself, and unlike other sky bars you can actually have fun – you know, get drunk, smoke, laugh, dance and be crazy!

Sen

“ The Roof offers thrilling views of the city down below and a backdrop that’s luxurious, elegant and yet tastefully restrained...

The Roof Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (The HUB)

Perched on the 21st floor of one of Wola’s newest towers, The Roof offers thrilling views of the city down below and a backdrop that’s luxurious, elegant and yet tastefully restrained. Sleek furnishings, well-deployed plants and spherical lights cast a cool look that acts in concert with a setting that feels fantastically affluent – but as beautiful as the interior is, it’s the outdoor deck that’s easily the biggest draw. It’s debut last year was met with several complaints about ‘the attitude’ of both staff and guests, but this seems to have been addressed to make for a far more comfortable experience. warsawinsider.pl

Summer feelin' “ Set through a pinkish neon lit passageway, when Wozownia opened four years back it enthralled the city.

Bar Studio

Courtyards & Patios Bar Studio Pl. Defilad 1

Cuda Na Kiju Nowy Świat 6/12

Cuda Na Kiju

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Firstly, let’s start with Cuda Na Kiju – Warsaw’s first multitap craft bar can no longer claim to be the city’s most adventurous (nor has it been able to for a long time), but is it's most popular: hell yes! Offering an understandable choice – plus a few mad mavericks – the craft tipples are complemented by on-tap cider and Prosecco. At the weekend, hundreds of people gather to sit on the deckchairs out in front to enjoy the sun set over General de Gaulle’s statue. But go beyond, and into the courtyard, and you’ll find an army of millennials spilling into the fountain and jiggling to tunes blasting from nearby bar-clubs like Newonce. The noise and numbers are insane, but despite the hedonism find bad behavior kept in check by the friendly but high-profile security presence.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT TOP RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK

It doesn’t get any more central than the Palace of Culture. Rolling out across the plaza outside, drinks at the versatile and artistically-minded Bar Studio are enjoyed on benches that encourage large and loud groups to gather and party. And with no nosey neighbors to call the cops about noise, it’s one of the few places around where noone cares at all if you shout and scream. Saliently, it’s good for all weather forecasts – also featuring outdoor seats protected by the palace’s epic colonnades, these provide a brilliant perch to watch summer’s maddest storms. Heavily engaged with social causes, the program of events is reflective of the venues bohemian leanings: arthouse movie nights on a big outdoor screen, graphic exhibitions, and silent discos featuring names such as Hate Bush.

Warszawa Powiśle

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

When did WP open? We haven’t the foggiest, but for sure it was one of the gate-openers when Warsaw’s nightlife ‘really changed’ about ten or so years back. Back then, it was a whole lot more scuzzy; maturing since the times when this former ticket hall was all chipboard and cracks, nowadays this cosmic, saucer-shaped building has been re-energized as a high-end cocktail den, albeit one that has retained several authentic retro touches. One constant, however, remains: everyone still prefers to drink outdoors. Should you do so as well, settle in at rush-hour to view the torrent of humanity scuttling from the nearby station. It’s a pleasure to do so while sipping on something long and fizzy. Wozownia Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

Set through a pinkish neon lit passageway, when Wozownia opened four years back it enthralled the city. Well, judging by the crowds, it still holds the good lookers of Warsaw firmly in its palm. Adding significant clutter to the courtyard since it first opened, you’ll be squeezing over different steps and past little enclaves filled with waifish girls knocking back the Prosecco and tanned city boys in tight-fitting trousers. Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the place. As for drinks, there’s some classic summer cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-year-old carriage house at the end. Warning: cards only! Wozownia

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WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring! For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl

ENJOY THE RIDE

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A small restaurant in the backwaters of Ochota issues a big call beyond its neighborhood boundaries...

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Review

THE LOOK Sandwiched between an old school ‘sklep spożywczy’ and a convenience store, the retro-American interiors are an unexpected surprise given the PRL date of the pavilion it’s housed in. But it looks good: familiar and comforting, roll in to find distressed tables and bright pops of color provided by the steel Tolix chairs. There’s no glitz, but it’s a place you feel good in. FOOD A tribute to the Holy Saint of Greasy Goodness, the burgers here are tailored with love. The choice of glistening buns and gooey cheese have a stain-your-shirt quality that will

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

ensure you make a mental note to survive on salad for the rest of the week. The sweet potato fries and smash burger are our tip for first-timers, though the hot dog meal also has a ‘return to’ quality. VIBE There’s a distinct feel-good mojo at play – but what’s most striking is that feeling you get of a sitting on a park bench, a vacant space next to you on

which you can meet another passenger travelling on life’s journey: all the time while St. Tony of Bourdain smiles benevolently down on you from the walls – this is what eating out is all about, and doesn’t Tony know it. - KD

Święci z Bostonu Burger Bar Pruszkowska 5, fb.com/ wiecizbostonu.burgerbar

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

t Święci z Bostonu Burger Bar there’s no shortage of pictures of the late rebel chef Tony Bourdain, and it’s his words that resonate when you settle yourself down. “Eat at a local restaurant tonight,” he once famously urged. “… Be open to a world where you may not understand or agree with the person next to you, but have a drink with them anyway,” he continued. “Eat slowly. Tip your server. Check in on your friends. Check in on yourself. Enjoy the ride.” At Święci z Bostonu Burger Bar, you find yourself living to exactly that mantra, striking up conversations with strangers and living for the moment. Listening to anecdotes from the locals and regulars, the neighborhood comes alive, its spirit channeled through the medium of this place.

IN THE NEWS THE TASTES OF TOMORROW

Mid-June saw the launch of an ambitious project by the Belvedere Gourmet Group…

June 13th saw the inauguration of a unique project – titled Akademia Mistrzów Smaku by Belvedere, it has sought to provide professional support for developing young culinary talent. Created by the Belvedere Gourmet Group, a company with over 30 years of tradition, the opening of the Akademia Mistrzów Smaku took place in the Belvedere Restaurant. The mission of the Academy is to actively support young culinary talent; to do so, students will be able to improve under the guidance of expert chefs and special guests. The academy’s program will allow students to master modern techniques and trends through theory and practice and students will also gain experience by helping out during prestigious events catering for up to 5,000 people. A unique opportunity, those taking part in the program will learn the secrets of the kitchen from the inside and by using the best gastronomic equipment. But that is not all – those students with the highest grades will receive material prizes whilst the best student will journey to a European city chosen by the Academy to train under the watchful eye of a star chef. Bartosz Brzoza said during the inauguration: “We realize that people of a young age need certainty and support in choosing their path. We will help them in this, we will be a partner who will share experiences, who will reveal to them the latest trends. Working in gastronomy is great, but also demanding. Therefore, knowledge is important. You must know that the catering industry hates amateurs.” Elżbieta Nitsze, the president of the Belvedere Gourmet Group, said: “each year we will look for young people with passion to teach them via the best trainers possible. We will challenge them and inspire them. We are convinced that we will raise the bar and increase the quality of the gastronomic industry as a result. We can impact not just Poland’s culinary culture, but that of the world.” warsawinsider.pl

Review FOOD Though unsubstantiated, the rumor is that the two venues – Vietnamka above and Tajka below – have the same chef wokking up. We witnessed him moving between restaurants, but can say with certainty he wasn’t leaving the premises to stock up on fresh basil. Nonetheless, his pad Thai checks the boxes of being sweet, sour, salty and bitter, but while the umami was good the tastes are far from thrilling. Faring better, though, try the Kai Med Mamuang (chicken with roasted cashews). Revealing a master’s hand, the soupy brown sauce comes with perfectly cooked rice and topped with fresh greens – it’s a dish you would go back for.

Tajka premiers in the downstairs space vacated by Vietnamka…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

VERDICT With Japonka, Vietnamka, To To Pho, Koreanka and a couple of other ventures in her portfolio, no other restaurateur has done more than Linh Nguyen to bring the tastes of Asia to Warsaw. With Tajka, her streak of creating successes looks set to continue. - KD

Tajka ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/ TajkaWarszawa

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GET DOWN WITH IT

BACKGROUND When Vietnamka opened it became the talk of the town, its reputation mirrored by its guest list – it wasn’t unusual to spot celeb chefs like Kurt Scheller scurrying out with a takeaway. Their success has continued post-lockdown, and resulted to a move to more spacious surroundings – right upstairs. But while it’s great that the new look Vietnamka has more elbow room, its replacement – a Thai venture created by the owner of Vietnamka – might cause you to raise a suspicious eyebrow.

INTERIORS We used to love the bird murals that adorned Vietnamka, so the new gaudy yellow walls take a little time to get used to. For sure they’ll make your photos less Insta-friendly. But for those that can’t leave a restaurant without updating their social media, find a back nook with some angel wings to pose against.

District

A diamond in the rough, the courtyard buildings at Rydygiera 9 house a trio of stars that shine especially bright on those long, summer nights…

Kraken Quint from Jaws – do you remember that old seadog? Well, were he to ever trade the shark hunting racket for bar design you’d imagine Kraken would be the result. Named after the tentacled monster so

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

feared in maritime mythology, this bar is certainly interesting to look at: not short of fishing nets, lanterns and shark fangs, the details are such that even the tables come with engraved caricatures of seafaring heroes – pipe-smoking mermaids, Popeye and so forth. And then you’ve got framed posters of Le Poulpe Colossal, octopus wall art and a ship’s wheel set behind the bar. But if that weren’t bizarre enough, then cast your eyes further to discover a wall of cymbals and portraits of tattooed dudes that get even more stranger in the men’s toilet: traipse to the urinal and you’ll find yourself gazing at a collage of vintage tattoo pics – yep, in among them you might be startled to spot a decorated manhood proudly displayed. Already legendary in the city center on account of their Poznańska location, the Żoliborz version feels even better on account of its shack-like interior – but let’s not kid ourselves, during summer it’s the courtyard that’s the magnet. Fueling the sense of reverie, pick through a seafood menu featuring tuna burgers, calamari, and sardines on toast, before exploring a flexi booze choice that includes Guinness, massive pints of Hoegaarden and a couple of crafty choices. The rum-based cocktails though earn their own star billing – the dark & stormy is our default order.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

DEEP DIVING RYDYGIERA

SAM It must have taken cojones to launch here, but by doing so six-years ago SAM paved the way for others to come. First founded in Powiśle, SAM were among the original wave of artisanal bakeries, and their reputation has carried down over the years that have followed. But whilst it’s not unusual to see locals pulling up to carry away a freshly-baked loaf, it’s also become a valued local meeting point. Split between an outdoor area shaded by triangular overhead sails, and an interior busy with retro, curve-backed seats and light wooden finishes, it’s a good mood space that feels right for a catch-up with friends. Having first swagged some bio wine, bread and assorted jarred goodies from their store,

nestle in for an evening of conversation over eco-minded light bites and summery sips such as Aperol spritz, mimosa or Bellini. A chain it might be, but there is nothing contrived about SAM – it looks, feels and tastes like a labor of love. Pa Ta Thai Flanked as this courtyard is by car repair garages and overgrown wasteland, you don’t automatically assume you’ll find something swish within. But Pa Ta Thai is most certainly just that – walking through a cool courtyard decorated with palms and overhead lightbulbs, one enters to discover a surprisingly large and spacious venue splashed out in jungle green colors. This rainforest effect is given added oomph by the greenery that dangles from the ceiling and the over-sized plants dotted about the floor. From the design point of view, it’s a place that feels casual but elegant, and the presence of a large copper-colored bar affirms that it’s as much about drinking as it is about the

food – inspired by the tastes of Asia, order sophisticated cocktails geared up for the sweaty season: the subtle and refreshing Lemongrass Mule or the fruity Green Mekong, a compilation of whisky, lime juice, coriander syrup and pineapple. Smooth, easy drinking at its best, these are cocktails of admirable competence. Then, there’s the food. Taking care of that angle is Surat Butsarakham, a native of Udon Thani in the north-east of Thailand. Full of fresh, balanced flavors his cooking is to be applauded, even if the green curry – marked as the spiciest dish on the menu – lacks the tangy, vivid punch you might otherwise expect. There can be no faulting much what goes on here. warsawinsider.pl

Review A SECOND LOOK: NOCNY MARKET

PHOTOGRAPHS NATALIA ANCZOK-PONIATOWSKA

A seasonal institution, we return to Nocny Market to discover the essence of summer Warsaw…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket Thurs 5 p.m. till midnight; Fri & Sat 5 p.m. till 1 a.m.; Sun 4 p.m. till 11 p.m.

ver the last decade Warsaw’s gastro scene has had several watershed moments, some bigger than others: from the country’s first Michelin star (Atelier Amaro, gone but not forgotten!), to the opening of Hala Koszyki, we’ve seen a string of events that have transformed the way we eat, drink, rest and play. But bundled among the biggies, the launch of Nocny Market should also be considered. Debuting in 2016, it was something of a game-changer at the time – bringing together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands, it was like nothing Poland had seen before. To this day it thrives, in spite of repeated annual warnings that “this summer will be the last”. Why’s that, you may ask, a question answered by the Nocny Market’s location. Set on a disheveled, disused train platform, the last few years have been filled with speculation that the state railway company would finally renovate this lost piece of real estate to fulfill its original function. Whether or not that ever actually happens, we’re none the wiser, but as it stands Nocny Market have continued to prove themselves to be a vital part of the city’s social fabric – and a tasty one as well. Underpinning it all, the food is a draw, with the stalls and units offering Vietnamese baguettes as served by Miss Banh Mi (a former model, no less!), deliciously stinky raclette from Melted, skewered meats from Brasil on the Plate, and inventive fishy dishes from Śledzie z Bornholmu.

“

A place of noise and clamor, it’s impossible not to feel hooked on the energy that abounds And though those are a few of the more eye-catching ventures, there’s also much more: fancy, super-lux eclairs from Am’or, vegan burritos from the legendary Momencik and burgers cooked over fire from Bydło i Powidło. To wash these down, join the queue at the Inne Beczki beer bus, or scrum it out at one of the stationary bars flinging out quick-fix summer cocktails for the masses out in front. And this, it must be said, is the biggest pull of all. More than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, Nocny Market is loved mostly for its atmosphere. Walking down a dark but recobbled pathway, the sensation is almost reminiscent of attending a festival – walking past bits of street art, join the human wave that washes as one towards the din up ahead. There, one is greeted by the sight of dozens of neon signs

hanging off the iron girders to create a quite stunning visual display. Though looking a little smarter than in its first years of life, the raw and gritty undercurrent has remained in place, and that’s nudged along further by the big beats from the DJ decks and general sense of good-humored commotion. A place of noise and clamor, it’s impossible not to feel hooked on the energy that abounds. And to top it all off, permanent mementos can be found courtesy of the maverick sock stand run by Kabak, not to mention the pop-up tattoo parlor that sits at the end. As good as it ever was, one can’t help but wonder how globally renowned Nocny Market would be were it in a higher-profile city such as Berlin or Barca – yes, on the right night, it really does feel that truly bit special. warsawinsider.pl

Review GUILTY AS CHARGED

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Declaring themselves a place of guilty pleasure, this vegan oasis proves just that…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Boca Boca - Vegan Guilty Pleasure Mikołaja Kopernika 25, fb.com/Bocabocavegan

oes Warsaw even need another vegan restaurant? You might think it doesn't, but then again, you might have to ask yourself how many vegan restaurants quite like this… THE LOOK A colorful geometric mural with a giant "Guilty Pleasure" neon is the focal point of this small joint on Tamka. The big open mouth logo on of the outside is reminiscent of the Frankenstein plant from Little Shop of Horrors whilst the additional counter set outside is perfect for people watchers and those easily entranced by the passing traffic. STAR DISH One word is sufficient: chimichanga! How the chimichanga originated varies with some claiming it came to be after a

restaurant owner accidentally dropped a burrito into a deep fat fryer, and yet others claiming it was invented by Chinese immigrants who had settled in Sonora in the early 1900s. The Boca Boca interpretation also deserves to go down in history, for this is truly quite something – even if it is vegan! MENU Starting the menu are empanadas, small tasty pleasures with a puff pastry-style shell holding the goodness inside together; also, how about some Padron peppers with Maldon salt to munch on whilst glugging on an ale from the Inne Beczki brewery. The chef worked the stove at Tel Aviv for many years, so you’re in good hands that now the meaning of versatility – they’re also behind the creation of the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog

“

The big open mouth logo on of the outside is reminiscent of the Frankenstein plant from Little Shop of Horrors... forged from marinated carrots, onions and red cabbage. As for dessert, check the brownie – topped with whipped cream and caramelized popcorn, it’s arguably the best vegan dessert we’ve ever held in our mouths. INSIDER SECRET One of the owners is celiac which explains why the gluten-free choices out-do anything else we’ve tried in this big ole’ city. - KD warsawinsider.pl

INSIDER'S

GUIDE For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNIT Y HUBS

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl Occupying a revamped 19th century, the Browary complex feels more like a district within a district with its revitalized historic buildings rubbing alongside upmarket new build. The food hall is the most premium in its category, though the sunken outdoor plaza is the place to be this summer. Don’t miss their flagship brewpub!

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com A former power plant, this remarkable regeneration project has kept hold of many industrial keepsakes such as the panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture. A wonder to explore, highlights include a retail offer angled towards hip Polish design firms as well as an entire floor dedicated to unique beauty treatments.

Vinyk Market

FOOD & DRINK Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca and ably supported by standalone restaurant projects scattered elsewhere: in terms of highlights, that means ace Tex Mex from the Blue Cactus and light bites at the design-minded Dock 19.

DON'T MISS!

Blue Cactus

Look out for the metal magic of Arkadiusz Chamera – his wacky sculptures are dotted around and were made into art using bits of metal recovered from power plant.

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INSIDER GUIDE COMMUNITY HUBS PZO HALL

Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl Warsaw’s latest food hub brings together six street food operators and a coffee point and bar inside a painstakingly designed space that falls back on every recent fad found in restaurant design. Highlights include mission burritos from MariCruz – enjoy your food haul inside or on the vast terrace outside.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed Warsaw’s gastro scene and continues to be seen as the benchmark when it comes to such culinary concepts. FOOD & DRINK Street food units frame the area around the Central Bar, as do a spread of restaurants that include the upmarket Sen and the open-all-hours CMA – but the biggest pull in the summer is the outdoor plaza: it’s one of the city’s most popular meeting points.

DON'T MISS! Head upstairs for The Upper Deck, a cocktail and wine bar with upscale jazzy undertones – live music is a forte!

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl For many, this is the most ‘authentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, something rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsarist-era structure. Note: open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. FOOD On one side, a farmers’ market flourishes with fresh produce and artisanal goods a forte. Segregated by a communal seating plan in the center, the rest has seen the floorplan lined with street food units of high reputation.

DON'T MISS! Order up drinks from the Niewinność wine bar or beers from the lively San Escobar. Craft nerds should visit the pocket-sized Piwna Gwardii to guarantee a hazy night.

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl Opened in a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Aside from Warsaw’s largest food hall, find museums (one dedicated to the factory space, another to Apple products – the tech brand not the fruit!), the luxury Kinogram cinema, the Bio Bazar farmers’ market and a diverse choice of bars and drink spots.

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THE GOLDEN YEARS

Step through the mists of time to see Warsaw as you’ve never seen her before…

What’s Art Box? Co-created by Joanna Kowalkowska and Piotr Sikora, Art Box Experience was loosely inspired by L’Atelier des Lumières in Paris, Team Lab in Japan and Artechouse in New York. Describing itself as “a multi-functional space for immersive experiences”, this 800 sq/m space was specifically designed to fuse art with science, digital

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

technology and entertainment. Where Is It? Up the escalator you must go and to the top of Fabryka Norblin. Actually, it’s worth a pause just there to consider the work that went into reviving this former 19th century metal factory – it’s impossible not to be impressed. And Retro Warszawa? A striking journey through pre-war Warsaw, Retro Warszawa is the first exhibition to be held here. Using historical photographs expertly colorized by Mariusz Zając, these have been seamlessly woven together with audio to create a quite brilliant foxtrot that takes visitors back into

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD TOP JULIA MARKIEWICZ

pened towards the end of March, the multi-sensory Retro Warszawa exhibition at Fabryka Norblin’s Art Box has already become firmly enshrined as one of Warsaw’s top alternative attractions. Due to run until the end of summer, join us for an inside look at what makes it special.

the capital’s inter-bellum golden years. Matched with bustling street sounds, uplifting accordion music and tinkly piano tunes, the super-sized images are both curious and captivating in equal measure – elegant ladies posing at the Warsaw derby; dancing street urchins; whiskered rally drivers; and even a dog climbing a building site ladder. The Highlights? The ‘documentary cinema’ room is perhaps the most joyful, dedicated as it is to celebrating Warsaw at play, but it’s the so-called panorama room that perhaps has the most impact. Here, wraparound images of the Great Synagogue and Pl. Piłsudskiego are projected onto all four walls and are accompanied by smaller images set within showing weird events such as “the start of the cycling race to the Polish sea, 1930”. Also of note, it’s hard not to love the room that shows ‘the other face of Warsaw’. It’s here you’ll come face-to-face with haggard beggars, fraudsters, street kids and others living on the margins of society. How Long Will I Be There? Thirty-minutes say the organizers, but you can take that with a pinch of salt – some will ‘do’ it in less than half that time, whilst others will be happy to lurk here for far longer than advised. We belong to that latter category – the big win here is their unusual and slightly eccentric choice of pictures. You don’t want to miss a single detail. The Cost… Regular tickets are priced between PLN 45 and PLN 55, though reductions are available for kids and students (PLN 35 and PLN 45). Family tickets, meanwhile, are set at PLN 105 and PLN 120. Yes, it is perhaps steep at first glance, but if you’re intrigued by Warsaw’s pre-war story then it’s absolutely a price worth paying. According to Joanna Kowalkowska, the long-term ambition is to become one of Warsaw’s Top Five attractions, and although that might sound a little overly-ambitious, there can be few places that we have enjoyed quite so much in recent times.

Art-Box Experience Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), artboxexperience.com

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INSIDER GUIDE COMMUNITY HUBS

ELECTRIC SUMMERS AT… ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

What’s hot at Elektrownia Powiśle this July? As it turns, really rather a lot… BEAUTY SECRETS Founded after the descendants of Mieczysław Rychlicki discovered his pre-WWI potions and formulas hidden in a Poznań townhouse, Alba 1913 have become one of Poland’s best-known cosmetics brands – producing premium natural cosmetics, it says much that their reach has penetrated markets in Hollywood, Japan and Saudi Arabia. But now you too can learn some of this family firm’s secrets at their aromatherapy workshops. In return, they promise “an intimate, relaxing, inspiring and phenomenally fragrant meeting”. For details, check Elektrownia’s and the Beauty Hall’s social media channels.

TAKE IT SLOW Scheduled for July 9th and July 10th, the Jestem Slow market has become one of Elektrownia’s biggest success stories – and visiting, you understand why. Specializing in domestic made products, you visit to pick through artisanal, natural cosmetics, funky jewelry pieces, and beautiful home accessories. Boho in spirit and atmosphere, the energy here is something else. Just talking to the traders and producers is a worthwhile and educational experience. Find it taking place on Level 0 and Level -1.

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

BE THERE OR BE… Since launching late last year Dock 19 by Mateusz Gessler has become one of Elektrownia’s anchoring food and drink concepts, something considerably aided by a gorgeous design courtesy of the acclaimed set designer and architect Boris Kudlicka, and a light, seasonal menu of sophisticated skill. But there’s more! Debuting in time for summer, a stunning rooftop terrace has become one of the big magnets for people looking to eat, drink and chill whilst enjoying the city’s magic sunsets.

FOR THE BODY & SOUL With a reputation that extends across Poland, Elektrownia’s Beauty Hall is a catch-all solution for innovative therapies, treatments and top-class cosmetics. But while this has been lauded around the country, its not the stores alone that have caused the public to take notice, but the way it has become something deeper – a lifestyle space dedicated to the nourishment of the body and soul. In July will be organized outdoor yoga classes aimed at every stage of experience – from beginners right the way up to seasoned practitioners. For details, follow the Beauty Hall's FB and Insta accounts for further announcements.

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Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

bring out its best.

SYRENA IRENA

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6

The retro-minded interior is awash with ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tabletops and bold blue colors. A witty homage to the classic eateries of old, it’s fun just to look at. But the food is equally enjoyable with the principal draw being pierogi featuring such fillings as sweet cheese and orange peel.

THE FARM

ul. Mokotowska 8

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry.

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

Bez Gwiazdek ul. Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

POLANA SMAKÓW ul. E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin.

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE ul. Brzeska 29/31

The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery.

STARY DOM

ul. Puławska 104/106

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to

ŹRÓDŁO

ul. Targowa 81

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE BY ADAM BORKOWSKI

ul. Smolna 4

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.

The Vegan Scene

Astonishing as it sounds, Warsaw is officially rated as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet. We’d need a telephone book to list them all, so instead settled for a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.

MOMENCIK

ul. Poznańska 16

You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS ul. Mokotowska 58

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons.

UKI GREEN

Vegan Ramen Shop

ul. Koszykowa 49A

Finlandzka 12

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks. Also in Muranów (Jana Pawła II 52/54) and Mokotów (Kazimierzowska 43), though for us nothing beats the original!

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU ul. Wilcza 60

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

LEONARDO VERDE ul. Poznańska 13

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO ul. Krucza 23/31

Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI ul. Hoża 62

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.

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Specialty Coffee

Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s our tried and tested faves…

COPHI

ul. Hoża 58/60

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room!

DOBRE MATERIA ul. Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.

Fat White

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. The cold brew rates as our summer favorite!

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42).

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting,

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check their original address on Wilcza.

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.

FORUM

ul. Elektoralna 11

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably

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ul. Niemcewicza 3

ul. Andersa 6

frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.

HAŁAS

ul. Elsterska 10

Divide Hałas into three sections: first, a tiny garden area with a couple of park benches; then, downstairs, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Finally, at the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty.

the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.

neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.

STOR

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

ul. Tamka 33

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a

U KRAWCA

ul. Siennicka 3

PO DRODZE ul. Bagatela 11

Set over two rooms inside a beautifully renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, head to the back to discover the real soul of this cafe. Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit.

RELAKS

ul. Puławska 48

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.

ROŚLINA

ul. Schroegera 80

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect,

SUMMER STAR Relax Na Wilczej ul. Wilcza 17

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

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Special Night Out When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…

organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

EPOKA

ul. Ossolińskich 3

Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

hub.praga ul. Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘One To Watch’ title at the Insider’s 2016 Best of Warsaw awards. And wow, this newbie is also one to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moon-shaped mirrors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.

ALE WINO

ul. Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.

DYLETANCI

ul. Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PRESS MATERIAL

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

fashion photographers.

NOBU

ul. Wilcza 46

Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s

tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great pleasures.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20 ul. Rozbrat 20

This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

ul. Poznańska 15

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense

CULINARY MASTERCLASS NOLITA

ul. Wilcza 46

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists.

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Feeling Crafty!

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…

Though less experimental than other tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.

CZEŚĆ

ul. Grzybowska 2

It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap?

DRUGIE DNO

ul. Nowogrodzka 4

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Evoking the look of a disused power station, the Double D. sports rugged brickwork and a scuffed style with the industrialized look amped up through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.

Syty Chmiel

JABEERWOCKY

Marszałkowska 10/16

Despite its copiously large footprint, Syty Chmiel has a warmth to it that causes visitors to settle in for a long night ahead – and settle you will. There’s twelve taps in total, and these offer a rotation of craft goodness that ranges from wacky to understandable. It’s not just about drink, either. Co-owner and chef Pan Tasak has created a menu that’s a celebration of Poland’s rural greatness.

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this softened

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!

CUDA NA KIJU

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused.

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).

KUFLE I KAPSLE ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The beer selection can be brilliantly radical.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Taste The Exotic

For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…

an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.

CEVICHE BAR ul. Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

GURU

ul. Widok 8

Blue Cactus

ul. Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin

Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas. We love it and you will as well.

BASIL & LIME ul. Oboźna 9

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor.

Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara.

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE ul. Nowy Świat 58

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

JAPONKA

ul. Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

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JOEL SHARING CONCEPT ul. Koszykowa 1

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

SENOR LUCAS

ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in

town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

THE COOL CAT

ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.

LA SIRENA ul. Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.

PAŃSKA 85 ul. Pańska 85

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

THE REAL DEAL PAŃSKA 85 ul. Pańska 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

RETRO SNAPSHOT: CELINA OSIECKA

There are few places in Poland’s big cities that remain unchanged. Celina Osiecka’s photography studio is one of them – now, an exhibition at the Praga Museum has brought her story to the Warsaw masses…

PHOTOGRAPH OF CELINA OSIECKA BY JERZY NOGAL

By Krystyna Spark

warsawinsider.pl

ocated not far from the riverbank in the Saska Kepa neighborhood, her tiny studio has been in business since 1968 when Osiecka obtained the title of Master Craftsman in the field of photography. The exhibition at the Praga Museum is not only a retrospective of a talented professional, but also a snapshot of changing customs, fashions, photography methods and culture – all through the eyes of a woman who has refused to move with the times… or rather, decided to safeguard what is slowly a disappearing form of art. Celina Osiecka continues to shoot on an analog camera and personally develops all the images, which she maintains in a specific tonality of black and white. The idea for an exhibit dedicated to her work came about in 2016, when curator, Antonina Gugała, met the photographer in connection with an artistic project, titled Warsaw’s Photographer. The project involved documenting the window displays of over 80 photography studios operating at the time in Warsaw and commissioning a photograph of her likeness from each. The result was a collection of 102 portrait and document-style photos, which portrayed the varied character of each studio’s services and nuances of photographic styles – visible despite the relative cohesiveness of frame and the shared identity of the sitter. “Meeting Celina Osiecka was the start of a close friendship,” states Gugała, which “led to the organization of her namesake exhibition and accompanying print publication.”

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Over the course of more than 50-years of operation, the photographer’s profession has undergone radical transformation – from analog, black-andwhite photos, printed on thick paper with ornamental borders, to colorful, digital imagery, which can be delivered via email, eradicating the need for a subsequent face-to-face meeting to collect the developed fruit of one’s work. However, despite these changes, Osiecka refused to conform, resisting the rapidly unfolding photography revolution. In her work Osiecka continues to make use of the analog method of production, which begins with exposing the images of clients on black-andwhite negatives, then chemically processing them in a darkroom, and finally retouching them using the traditional pencil stencil method. Ultimately, each print produced in Osiceka’s studio is one-of-a-kind. While in the past Osiecka took

photos primarily for use in documents and to commemorate special occasions, today her work is mostly for personal use. Nonetheless, she is still very much grounded in the portrait style and it is this for which she is known. The exhibition presents photographs from Osiecka’s archive taken between 1962 and 2022 – chosen from among

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Praga Museum Targowa 50/52, muzeumpragi.pl

thousands of alphabetically arranged negatives and prints. Considering that the manner of their production is an integral part of Osiecka’s original style, the exhibition also includes a spotlight on the practical side of her creative process. Techniques of pencil retouching as well as preliminary studies and folders containing notes, used to prepare for her final exam,

provide insight into the behindthe-scenes work – vital when maintaining the high quality of the service she provides. On the other hand, photographs from Osiecka’s family albums draw attention to her private life, depicting also the history of the studio itself and its changing exterior environment. Celina Osiecka: Photography Services tells the story of an

extraordinary lady, a native of Warsaw, who was confident and passionate enough to stand her ground in the face of change and, in doing so, document half a century of photographical developments, paying witness to changes in culture, dress, customs and, most of all, the fleeting nature of hopes and dreams – visible in the eyes of the people she captured. warsawinsider.pl

SPORTING STYLE

PHOTOGRAPHER: PIOTR NARESKI STYLIST: AGATA KLEPACKA MODEL: GABI PAPIŃSKA

If you’re looking to put the finishing touches to your summer beach bod, then at least do so in style – whether you’re getting sweaty on the tennis court or the running track, at Designer Outlet Warszawa style solutions await that ensure you’ll always look good no matter how far you’ve made it along your personal fitness journey…

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

Piaseczno | Puławska 42E designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Opposite page Nike shorts (zł. 229 reduced to zł. 160) Top Nike (zł. 249 reduced to zł. 160) Shoes Nike (zł. 429 reduced to zł. 340) Yoga accessories 4f (zł. 69,90 reduced to zł. 49.90) This page from top Benetton children's shorts (zł. 59,90 reduced to zł. 41.90) Benetton children's top (zł. 49,90 reduced to zł. 34.90) Shoes Nike (zł. 299 reduced to zł. 194) Men's shoes Nike blue (zł. 379,99 reduced to zł. 208) Men's shoes New Balance (zł. 429 reduced to zł. 299) Men's shoes orange Nike (zł. 799.99 reduced to zł. 549.90)

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

WHAT TYPE OF PAINTER ARE YOU?

Experience, learn and be inspired in Łazienki Park's Old Gaurdhouse!

‘Painting’ is a family painting area, a place created for you to experience, to learn, to excite your imagination, to perceive the picturesqueness of the world through your senses, and also to simply have fun. Our pretext to create it and to allow families to experience art together was Rembrandt’s painting The Polish Rider now, after over a century, again on display in the Palace on the Isle in the Royal, Łazienki Museum. In our family painting area: · PLAY with other our youngest visitors · COLLECT just like famous artists and rulers did · REST in a creative manner as well · WORK, CREATE, SHOW. The family painting area is suitable for people with sensory impairment. Visit us in the Old Guardhouse! Come see our ‘Painting’ area and stay for the events. Our painting area accompanies the temporary exhibition ‘The Royal Rembrandt. The Polish Rider from The Frick Collection in New York’.

The Old Guardhouse is open from Tuesday to Sunday between: 11.00 - 12.45 1st entry 12.45 13.00 break 13.00 - 14.45 2nd entry 14.45 15.00 break 15.00 - 16.45 3rd entry Booking: rezerwacje@lazienki-krolewskie.pl Entry: 5 PLN per family, tickets can be bought Tuesday-Friday in the Old Guardhouse, and in the ticket box in the Officer Cadets School on weekends (on Fridays entrance is free)

Royal Łazienki Museum ul. Agrykola 1 lazienki-krolewskie.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

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18.12.2018 12:32

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop

inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but

July 4th – August 24th The youngest explorers (age 1-2)

July 4th – August 24th Preschool voyagers (age 3-5)

Apply on www.tep.edu.pl

warsawinsider.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at

the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722

305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well

as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

shopping experiences ARKADIA

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg.

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59,

zlotetarasy.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

warsawinsider.pl

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

National Stadium

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com 3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl 9

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org 6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

warsawinsider.pl

TAKE WARSAW HOME

THE SIREN CALLS

For a piece of Warsaw on your wall, look no further than the work of Julia Hanke…

etter known for its line in light – and often amusing – erotic art, the saucy Lekka Gallery is more than a one-trick pony. That’s proved by the presence of such artwork as this mermaid by Julia Hanke. Simple but enchanting, Hanke’s reimagination of Warsaw’s official mascot is deliciously enticing – pigment printed on high quality paper, the care awarded to this process ensures it’s far brighter and vivid than most poster art you’ll find on sale. And should you like what you see, then be informed that Hanke’s mermaids also appear on the clothing of hip street brand Eggo Wear.

Lekka Gallery ul. Chmielna 10

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2022