A SONG TO SUMMER

Muzealna get into the spirit of the season…

You would assume that any restaurant hidden in the basement of a museum would be a dark and dusty relic. Not so in the case of Muzealna. Set in the bowels of the National Museum, it opens out to reveal a minimalistic interior sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers: a communal table manufactured from upcycled fishing nets, colorful 3D-printed totems by UAUPROJECT, cupboards by Maria Jeglińska, customized seats by Studio Rygalik, etc.

For the time being, however, you can forget all that – the summer months are all about the terrace behind. A quiet green idyll, this shaded refuge comes adorned with hanging bulbs criss-crossing above, huge plant pots, and towering trees that sway and shimmer overhead. Isolated from the noise and clatter of downtown, you feel far removed from the world outside.

As for the food, that’s as fresh and contemporary as the aesthetic styling. Of the starters, try resisting the asparagus (PLN 37) served with rocket mayonnaise and fried egg. Nor should you overlook their signature tartare (PLN 49), a stimulating mass of beef, pickled cucumber, shimeji, anchovies, lovage and a wallop of Dijon. Mains, meanwhile, have definitely climbed in price since our last visit (but then, hey, so have they everywhere), but you forgive that when dealing with a veal tenderloin drizzled in a lively jus. But the final word goes to the desserts. These are next level with glazed strawberries served with a meringue that snaps and crackles. Light and playful, it’s a song dedicated to the summer.

Muzealna Al. Jerozolimskie 3, restauracjamuzealna.pl