Warsaw Insider June 2023 #322

Reviews: EAT & DRINK

Review: Senor Lucas – p. 39

Drinks: Grodziskie beer – p. 41

Review: Muzealna – p. 42

Food News: pizza – p. 43

Reviews: Chimi & Churri – p. 44

Drinks News: Fonto Fizz – p. 45

Interview: Andrea Camastra – p. 46

DISCOVER

Summer essentials – p. 59

Review: Around Us A Sea of Fire – p. 61

IT SHOULD GO WITHOUT SAYING, there are some months when Warsaw feels a hard sell – June, though, is not one of them, and it usually takes just a few minutes to reach an understanding as to why the city was voted Europe’s best weekend break earlier in the year. Her energy is intoxicating, and this bundle of excitement is unleashed in a torrent once summer hits fifth gear. By presenting both the unknown and more established hits, I’m hopeful that we’ve captured this spirit.

That said, it’s been difficult concentrating when, much like the rest of the world, we’ve found ourselves hopelessly bingeing on HBO’s Succession – with that in mind, we’ve bought you our own guide to the city as seen through the eyes of the dysfunctional Roys. Breaking away from our hopeless TV habit, we’ve also gone on an urban safari to uncover Praga’s best murals, happened upon a giant egg, found some stone frogs, and chowed down inside what many argue to be Poland’s finest restaurant.

Consider this, however, just a teaser for what lies ahead – as I scribble these words, it’s in the knowledge that the next time we meet it’ll be to unveil our first ever Best of Summer issue. See for yourself when you check in with us in July. In the meantime, enjoy!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief Alex

Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art

Director

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution

Manager

Advertising Manager

Marketing Advisor

Julia Zajczyk jzajczyk@valkea.com

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MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL

A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit.

In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception .

Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act.

Body & Mind massage by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace +

Intel

How Egg-citing!

Years after plans were first made public, a giant egg has been unveiled on Plac Pięciu Rogów.

Unveiled on the doorstep of the Jabłkowski Department Store, the striking installation measures 2.1-metres in height and 2.2-metres in width. Precisely 3-metres in length, the egg was unveiled in May by the Deputy Mayor, Aldona Machnowska-Góra.

“Just like the palm tree, this sculpture may become one of Warsaw’s tourist symbols,” said Machnowska-Góra. “Along with the mini-pool of water next to it – which is used by dogs and birds, it demonstrates our sensitivity towards the non-human inhabitants of Warsaw.”

Continuing, she added that she hoped everyone would find the time to hug the egg. “Doing so is an unbelievable experience,” she said. Specifically designed so as to emit a hatching sound, the egg was the brainchild of Joanna Rajkowska, an artist who many will know as the author behind the nearby artificial palm that stands in the centre of Rondo de Gaulle’a.

Credited with revolutionising Poland’s approach to public art when it was unveiled twenty-years ago, now hopes are high that the egg will attain the same level of fame.

Speaking at the ceremony, Rajkowska said: “the egg has a special intense colour so that it works in many weather conditions – the texture of the egg will become more interesting. It’s also kind of a sensitivity test for Varsovians. It’s my intention that this surreal object places us in a completely different space-time. Specifically, the kind of space-time that birds know.”

Palm Reader

First appearing in the middle of December, 2002, Rajkowska’s artificial palm tree in the center of Rondo de Gaulle’a lit the touchpaper for a horde of artists to follow in her wake and experiment in public, whilst simultaneously handing the city a work that would become every bit as iconic of the post-communist capital as the skyscrapers blooming upwards.

Initially erected as a temporary project, the idea for the Palm – or ‘Greetings From Jerusalem’ to award it its formal title – was coined during a trip that the artist undertook to Israel. “The palm is the ending to a text that has never been published,” says Rajkowska. “It seemed that Warsaw, with no proper Jewish community, was painfully empty – as if one chamber of its heart was missing.”

The 15-metre, steel-bodied palm sought to fill that void, yet despite now being a much-loved part of the city’s skyline, it originally met with much resistance. “It divided people dramatically at the time, to the extent that I heard about one family in Kielce that couldn’t finish their Christmas dinner because of an argument about it,” smiles Rajkowska.

HAPPENING THIS MONTH BEAM WITH PRIDE

Whereas some Polish cities view pride parades with suspicion and – on occasion – outright hostility, the Warsaw version has found itself strongly supported by the current Mayor. The largest event of its kind in Poland, the divided nature of Polish society nonetheless means that the route usually remains unpublished until the very last moment in the interests of safety – i.e., to deter counter-gatherings. Despite that, it’s pretty much assumed that the city centre will be integral. Forecast to draw

When: June 17th

More Info: fb.com/paradarownosci

thousands, it’s also a given that the party will continue long into the night in the city’s more gay-friendly venues. The news does not stop there, however. For the first time ever, the southern satellite town of Piaseczno will also be holding its own parade, this one kicking-off at 2 p.m. on June 10th. Starting at the fountain on Pl. Piłsudskiego, the circular (ish) route will go down Kościuszki, Sienkiewicza, Dworcowa, Jana Pawła II and Puławska before terminating at the start point.

Port Faces Resuscitation

City Hall reveals plans for Przystań Park

Going under the name of Przystań Park, a tender has been announced for the management of the area around ul. Zaruskiego in Port Czerniakowski. Including 1,800 sq/m of wooden cabins and chalets, City Hall now hope to revive this space and attract NGOs and watersport enthusiasts.

“Immersed in greenery, yet only ten-minutes by bike from the city centre, this is a place that could become one of the most beautiful corners of Warsaw,” said the Mayor, Rafał Trzaskowski. “The enclave will primarily serve canoeists, rowers and sailors, but we want to become a real leisure haven.” Already something of a favourite, little secret, features of Przystań include a floating pier and a small tunnel leading to wooded pathways.

What do we play?

Electronic music of all kinds is the forte – our goal is to have fun and we know that the recipe for an unforgettable night out is good music, great drinks, brilliant food and a magical atmosphere. By putting all those elements together, we’ve created the best night in town.

What do we serve?

Have you heard of the best appetisers in town? Yes, they’re right here. Additionally we’ve got some truly gourmet deserts as well as drinks that include classic compositions and more tailor-made creations. In Question, let your imagination run wild!

Good to know

Take a look at our Instagram/ QuestionWarsaw or Facebook/ QuestionWarsaw for news on upcoming events or contact us

KEEP THE BALANCE

Warsaw’s hottest club, Question, answers all your night time needs…

Despite the name, Question Club provides answers to give guests the perfect life balance – combining cocktails with music and entertainment, Question seeks to activate your social life through its unique approach.

The name, however, is by no means incidental – evoking an air of mystery, it reflects the atti-

tude of a club that likes to keep people guessing: does techno house await? Deep house? Or maybe classic dance sounds? At Question such choice – and the colour that comes with it –abounds. Aiming to become the beating heart of the Food Hall Browary Warszawskie complex, Question’s beautiful interior matches will soon entrench itself in your heart as well.

Grzybowska 60, thequestion.pl

Tourism Returns!

Newly-released stats have shown Warsaw’s tourist sector is set for a long-awaited post-Covid rebound.

Last year saw the Mazovia region visited by 14.2 million people, a million more than 2021.

Of this number, 3.3 million visited Warsaw.

Now, authorities are hoping that 2023 will see figures surpass 2019’s pre-Covid record of 15.2 million

Certainly, Warsaw’s museums are bracing for an uptick courtesy of renewed foreign, domestic and local interest. Held in May, the annual Night of Museums events saw previous records smashed after attracting a turnout of 245,000

Of the most visited institutions, the Museum of the University of Warsaw topped the charts after drawing 21,000 over the course of the evening.

The National Museum came second with 13,500 visitors and the Royal Castle came third with 11,000.

Dismantled in the 90s to make way for a pavilion that today houses Biedronka, a charming fountain has been returned to the northern district of Muranów. Found in the courtyard of Nowolipie 21, the fountain cost in excess of PLN 230,000 and was built after getting 500 votes in a 2018 poll held to decide how the city’s participatory funds would be spent.

First appearing in the 1960s when it was knocked down three decades later only the four frog sculptures that ringed it were saved. For a time, two of them could be found adorning the Biedronka that took its place. Subject to a careful restoration process, the quad squad of frogs made their comeback in mid-May and can now be found staring towards an environmentally friendly fountain located a short walk from where the original once stood.

Un-frog-ettable Muranów’s hidden, secret glory…

IN SEASON

Named after wartime heroine Irena Sendler, May saw POLIN’s park transformed by spectacular red tulips…

More commonly associated with the daffodil – a flower that was first used to commemorate the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising by the social activist and former insurgent Marek Edelman – the area surrounding the POLIN museum saw itself transformed in May courtesy of a sea of red tulips. Planted last autumn by the Dutch Ambassador, Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski and Irena Sendler’s daughter, Janina Zgrzembska, the three-thousand bulbs came into full bloom last month.

Lining the museum park’s Sendler Alley, the variety was first created in 2008 by the Dutch grower Jan Lighart. Named in honour of Irena Sendler, and characterised by a small yellow spot, the tulips have come to be regarded as something of an elite variety.

What’s In A Name

Born in Warsaw in 1910, Irena Sendler joined the Polish Underground during the city’s Nazi occupation. Heading the children’s section of Żegota (the Polish Council to Aid Jews), she is credited with saving around 2,500 Jews from certain death. Despite her arrest and subsequent torture, she refused to reveal anything about her conspiratorial activities. On the day of her scheduled execution, she was freed after German officials were bribed by Żegota. Recognised in 1965 by Yad Vashem as Righteous Among the Nations, she passed away in the city of her birth at the age of 98.

HELLO SUMMER!

New terrace premiers at Lane’s Gin Bar…

Located in the Hotel Bristol, Lane’s Gin Bar has won over not just Warsaw’s growing band of gin enthusiasts, but all lovers of the truly exquisite. And with summer, things have just got even better with the launch of Warsaw’s most elegant garden.

Decorated in a style that perfectly completements the majestic shape of the legendary Bristol Hotel, tables and sofas set alongside the façade gaze directly on Krakowskie Przedmieście, making this Warsaw’s most premium drinks terrace of the season. Adding a touch of class, subtle pastels combine

with stylish furnishings to lend a feeling of respite amid the city centre bustle.

Served in stunning fountains specifically designed for serving alcohol, the new seasonal cocktail list is ideal for larger groups and encourages sharing in a carefree atmosphere. In addition to crowd favourites such as the Negroni or Porn Star Martini, discover a range of house novelties like the gin-based Mr. Lane’s Lemonade, or the Coolane’s – a concoction of gin and white vermouth with melon liqueur and almond milk.

However, what are cocktails without excellent cuisine? Inspired by Nikkei flavours – a

hybrid of Peruvian-Japanese tastes – this has a strong summery twist that will leave you in its thrall. And now, all this can be enjoyed for even longer. Extending opening hours for summer, Lane’s opens at noon each day and closes 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday and 1 a.m. at all other times. For live entertainment, DJs play from 8 p.m. onwards.

Brought to you by

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

CENSORED!

Performance Control. In simplified terms, for the following decades this would become the epicentre of Polish state censorship.

Employing just under 500 people, it’s here that texts would be redacted and photos edited to scrub people out. Finally, on June 6th, 1990, the office was abolished. Slipping into anonymity thereafter, it wasn’t until 2012 that Mysia returned to the news, this time after No. 3 was converted into what remains to this day Warsaw’s trendiest department store – decorated with a wayfinding system that hints at the building’s previous role as a censorship office, this once secretive bastion of Communism now thrives as a multi-floor consumer experience whose units include a cult Leica store, a vinyl den and a string of high-end fashion shops.

Warsaw does irony well, let it not be said otherwise. For a case in point, one need only to look to the carbuncle that stands at Nowy Świat 6/12. Formerly the HQ of the Communist Party, today it’s an entirely different party that you’ll find here – now in-filled with youthful bars, this blockish building is one of the main social points on Warsaw’s nocturnal map.

Altogether less obvious, though, are the buildings on the funnel-shaped Mysia street. Rebuilt post-war in Socialist Realist style, originally the first and second floors overlooking the road were reserved for American companies with a presence on the Polish market. This idea did not last long, however, and it wasn’t long until the building – now Mysia 3 and Mysia 5 – was overtaken by the Main Office of Press, Publication and

Fittingly, and in a nod to its previous role, the exterior has also been reinvented to feature a free speech memorial that was unveiled on June 5th, 2014. Ninety metres in length, it takes the form of a censor’s black line. Found on what has been rechristened Free Word Square, its debut was marked by a speech delivered by Bronisław Komorowski. “Free speech was the dynamite that blew up the Communist system,” he said. “We should remember that freedom began in Poland.”

A look at Mysia, a street where once Poland’s censorship policies were formulated…

“For the following decades this would become the epicentre of Polish state censorship”

Mysia street, 1957

HAPPENING THIS MONTH

Where: Multimedia Fountain Park / Wisła Boulevards

When: date to be confirmed (June 24th likely)

Visit Kora

The musician’s mural and grave have become cult attractions…

Unveiled in 2019, Bruno Althamer’s mural of the best-selling rock musician Kora has become one of Warsaw’s standout pieces of public art. Purposefully positioned next to a tree behind the Branicki Palace on Nowy Świat 18/20, the mural was designed to change with the seasons with the blooming shrubbery giving the impression of hair growth. Fondly remembered for her music and messages of tolerance and openness, Kora succumbed to cancer in 2018

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM

As before, as temperatures soar Warsaw’s social focus will switch to the river. In June, this will culminate with the customary celebration of Wianki – or, to award it its English title, Midsummer’s Night. Although details had yet to be announced at press time, history is likely to repeat itself with most of events held around the Multimedia Fountain Park below the Old Town. Previously, that’s meant concerts, fireworks and food fairs, as well as a traditional floating of garlands downstream. Tied with Slavic tradition, it’ll also involve flower-laden wooden vessels making their way down the Wisła. Set to attract several thousands of people (and we mean, several thousands), it’s one of June’s most anticipated events.

and was laid to rest in Powązki Military Cemetery. Something of a shrine for fans, her grave is one of the more picturesque in Warsaw, decorated as it is with an ivy-clad trellis and a bronze sculpture of a nude female figure.

Kora’s grave can be found in Powązki Military Cemetery on Row 14 of Section K. Still lost?

It’s to the left of the Smolensk monument.

MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL FEAST FOR THE SPIRIT.

A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit. In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception .

Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act.

Body & Mind massage by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace + 48 798 665 254

www.lomilomi.waw.pl

What’s Fat All About?

The story of Gruba Kaśka…

We’ve all been there: stood at the Ratusz Arsenal tram stop, staring in puzzlement at that strange, rotund structure that sits between the fork in the tramlines. What the hell is it, we’ve all asked at one point. In a nutshell, that’s Gruba Kaśka (Fat Kasia), a water tower designed in Classicist style by the eminent architect Szymon Bogumił Zug. Though small in size, it took four years to build and was completed in 1787 to form part of a complex commissioned by the banker Karol Schultz.

Comprising of a luxury hotel, a palace, a coach house and stables, the water tower would form just one element of this ambitious project. Alas, the

collapse of Schultz’s bank in 1793 saw these plans scotched and the surrounding land and properties subsequently snapped up by the wealthy Jews that inhabited this part of town.

Set in what was once a square, the water fountain continued to prove useful though, and right up until the outbreak of the war it was used to provide water for horse-drawn cabs. Damaged during the 1944 Uprising, it was modified in the post-war years by Bruno Zborowski who narrowed the doorway and walled-up the windows. Fortunately, it did at least survive the construction of the W-Z highway with the tram tracks arranged so that they would run either side of the building. Restored to its previous form in 2004, today it’s one of Warsaw’s odd little gems.

Pre-war: Great Synagogue in the background

SUCCESSION

SUCCESSION

THE WARSAW VERSION

The mega-hit HBO series has the world’s tele addicts hooked, but how would it play out in a Warsaw context?

Succession

KERRY’S LITTLE FLAT

Even in a series brimming with scathing insults and epic putdowns, there is nothing that competes with Marcia haughtily announcing: “We’re calling Kerry a taxi to the subway so that she can go home to her little apartment.” Ouch. But where would downtrodden Kerry live in Warsaw? Step forward Bliska Wola Tower (nearest metro: Płocka), a development that has become a poster child for “pathological” real estate development.

Falling under the regulatory 25 sq/m size requirements for flats, 157 micro apartments measuring from 18 sq/m have now failed to be certified by Warsaw authorities. Of course, it might also be possible to spot Kerry in the Keret House (Żelazna 74). Dubbed the world’s narrowest house, it’s just 92 centimetres at its thinnest point.

CONNOR’S PUB

“I’ll have whatever a regular Joe would have, just a Belgian weiss beer—not Hoegaarden.” So says Connor Roy on one of the few occasions we see the Succession stars actually daring to enter the normal world. Well, there’s good news for the Chief Conhead. Were he ever to come to Warsaw, he’d find choice aplenty, not least in the New Town’s Elephant Belgian Pub (Freta 19). As a backup, we’d point him in the direction of Nowogrodzka – more specifically, to its craft bars: Jabeerwocky, Kufle I Kapsle and Drugie Dno.

ROMAN’S WINDOW

Of all the scenes that occur in the HQ of Waystar Royco, there is perhaps none more memorable than Roman – in one of his more degenerate moments – drawing the blinds of his cloud-high office before satisfying his animalistic urges all over a window. Of course, there’s no shortage of prestige office projects in Warsaw, but it’s likely that Waystar Royco would think of nowhere else but the Varso Tower. Completed last year, and commonly marketed as the tallest building in the EU at 310-metres, it makes perfect sense that Logan would base his operations here.

KENDALL’S RIVER

Rife as Succession is with moments of high drama, nothing shocks more than Kendall careering into a river while high on a cocktail of booze and drugs. Could that happen in Warsaw? Damn right. As recently as April police found a white van floating by Gdański Bridge – fortunately, there was no sign of a dead waiter inside. In film, too, the Wisła has seen auto related drama. A few years back, habitants were treated to the unusual sight of a London

double decker bus plunging off Gdański Bridge as part of a stunt filmed for the Bollywood film Kick.

TOM’S STAG NIGHT

Failing to make Prague, Tom & Co. end up celebrating the last of his freedom inside a licentious club seemingly hidden down a disused New York train tunnel. If Warsaw has anything like that, then we don't know it, but it does have something better: Luzztro (Jerozolimskie 6). Home to every vice going, this legendary murky den of techno-fuelled lunacy guarantees that all who leave do so looking like zombies at dawn.

MATSSON’S RETREAT

Warsaw might lack the majestic Nordic landscapes that make Lukas Matsson’s retreat so beguiling, but it can at least offer choices for an off-grid escape. The personification of the Scandinavian concept of Hygge, My Treehome (mytreehome.pl) boasts a three-meter panoramic window and an XL-sized bed hoisted up high in a treehouse that counts its neighbours as herons, hawks and free-roaming horses. Found in Stara Miłosna, it’s extraordinary to think that downtown Warsaw is 20-minutes by cab.

Consider also the Bookworm Cabin (bookwormcabin.xyz), a snug split-level chalet crammed with books. Kendall, of course, would complain about its size, but there’s no faulting the serenity it offers. Again, you’re just an Uber from Warsaw with the city centre just 40-minutes away.

SHIV & TOM’S FIGHT

Played out to the glittering skyline of NYC, the intensity of Tom and Shiv’s high-rise argument will for certain be remembered as one of the most powerful moments in recent television history. Although it purports to take place in their triplex apartment, we’d have it viciously fought out on Szóstka’s terrace, the stylishly minimalistic restaurant found on the sixth floor of the Hotel Warszawa. Everything about it says Shiv and Tom.

GREGG’S WARDROBE CATASTROPHE

Before Gregg became as conniving as the rest, he was the show’s hapless comic relief – in the pilot, that meant him vomiting through a breathing hole while dressed as a lion mascot in a theme park. We’re 100% confident that the Warsaw version of Succession would have him as the guy that dresses like a dumpling to encourage people to visit the Zapiecek restaurant (various locations, inc. Krakowskie Przedmieście 55 / Nowy Świat 64/ Piwna 34 / 36).

PREVIOUS SPREAD SHUTTERSTOCK, THIS SPREAD UNSPLASH

SHOP THE LOOK

With entire blogs and magazine articles devoted to following the fashion of Succession, you’ll no doubt be wondering where you too can emulate the lead members of the cast. Vitkac (Bracka 9) would be the obvious starting point, and even more so if you’re looking for that Kendall Roy birthday outfit –after all, there’s nothing like a loud Gucci jacket to announce that you’re rather special. But if nothing else, Succession has catapulted the popularity of ‘stealth wealth’. Ditch the capacious bag and instead look for discreetly luxurious Roy family favourites such as Loro Piana and Brioni at Atelier Davide (Trzech

Krzyży 10/14)

LIVE THE LIFE

Finding the Warsaw equivalent of Logan Roy’s townhouse is a challenge given the bruising Warsaw received at the hands of the Germans. Even so, how’s this for a candidate: Foksal 13/15 Beautifully restored in recent years, it’s a place of splendid staircases, impressive portals and handforged balustrades. Neither is it a stranger to the super rich. In the 30s the building was bought by Jan Wedel, the famous Polish entrepreneur and philanthropist, who redeveloped it and equipped it with modern amenities, such as Warsaw’s first panoramic lift.

As for the kids and their skyscraper condos, we seem them as residents of Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan Tower. Looming over Pl. Grzybowski, this luxury development is edgy and exciting yet clean and classical – far removed from the crass vanity projects that have shaped the city’s skyline.

EAT THE PART

Eating figures rarely in Succession – clearly, it’s something that gets in the way of the all-consuming business of backstabbing and betrayal. That said, there are a clutch of iconic food related scenes that could easily relate to Warsaw – excluding, that is, Gregg’s introduction to ortolan. For example, we have a maniacal Tom tauntingly stealing Logan’s chicken – in Warsaw, this would not be enacted on a superyacht as per Succession, but in Kura (Nowolipki 15 / Branickiego 11 / Obrzeżna 3), the capital’s premier source of all things chicken. And who can forget Logan ordering platters of lobster to be thrown away before roaring, “we’ll order f***ing pizza.” Rejecting the capital’s raft of fancy Neapolitan joints, we’ve no doubt he’d go for our top high street choice – Rucola (Francuska 6 / Miodowa 1 / Krucza 6/14 / Klimczaka 1). Then, cast your minds back to when “the idiot kids” found themselves debating whether or not a peace offer-

ing of doughnuts had been poisoned. Supremely fun and tasty, the New York-inspired MOD Donuts (Paryska 37) would for sure be their Warsaw option of choice.

There is, however, nothing that compares to the absolute insanity of the ‘Boar on the Floor’ episode. As he attempts to weed out the traitor at the table, a crazed Logan forces underlings to crawl on the floor making oinking noises, all the while scrabbling for the sausages he throws. In Warsaw, these sausages would be sourced from either the premier butchery in town, Mięsny (Walecznych 64), or ordered online from Darren at Ke Nako (kenakofoods.com).

“ Looming over Pl.Grzybowski, this luxury development is edgy and exciting yet clean and classical.. .”

East End Art

Seen as the birthplace of Warsaw street art, join us for a summertime safari of our favourite murals in Praga… and beyond!

Warsaw Fight Club by Conor Harrington

(2015) Środkowa 17

Says the artist: “I wanted to demystify the classical art which tends to portray these kind of figures as being elegant and statuesque. By presenting them in direct physical combat I wanted to show the harm they are capable of.” Local councilors, however, have complained that the imagery encourages street violence.

The Praga Piper by Mateusz Kołek

(2019) Wrzesińska 6

Authored by Mateusz Kołek but executed by GoodLooking Studio, this mural celebrates the street musicians that were once such an inseparable part of local Praga life. Found on the wall of a swanky new apartment complex, one could theorise that it conveys the rich contrast between old school Praga and its increasingly gentrified new direction.

Praga is Fashionable by RSM

(2020) Białostocka 7

There is no hidden meaning to this piece of wall art: what you see is what you get. Boldly declaring Praga to be fashionable, it pictures an elegantly attired female sitting in a café with a Yorkie at her feet. Though fun and jaunty, the XL work fundamentally misses the point, however – i.e., that it is Praga’s raw but creative underbelly that has served to make it so in vogue.

Sausage Dog by Helloart

(2017) Kijowska 11

As opposed to a tribute to the local dachshund population (it’s high!), this mural was painted to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Jamnik (sausage dog) building whose side it adorns. Named so on account of its elongated form, this 508-metre long residential block has enjoyed several brushes with celebrity. In 2004, for example, British band Travis recorded their video for Love Will Come Through here.

Praga Murals

Goose by Diego Miedo

(2012) Brzeska 14A

Added at a time when the city was counting down to the European Football Championships, Diego Miedo’s project aimed to show local kids that rather than loitering around the gates of the National Stadium, they could do something actually useful with their time – as such, dozens of schoolchildren helped the artist realise this work.

Man’s Fate by Twożywo & Farbfieber

(2010) Radzyminska 150

This Polish-German collaboration was realised to mark 20 years of partnership between Warsaw and Dusseldorf. Showing a suited wolf leading a lamb by the hand, its interpretation has been the source of hot debate –and as a result, has been praised by several people for doing exactly what public art should strive to do.

Hole in the Whole by 1010

(2015) Mackiewicza 1

Though peeling and in a generally desperate state of disrepair, many profess this to be their favourite Warsaw mural – it’s certainly intellectually stimulating / baffling. Painted by the acclaimed Hamburg street artist 1010, it shows a hole disappearing inside a series of larger holes. Explaining his work, 1010 says: “the hole gives us a chance to leave the periphery and enter something new – but what? Exactly.”

Woman’s Head by Tankpetrol

(2021) Kowieńska 21

Painted by a Manchester-based Polish artist, Woman’s Head peers over shabby Kowieńska in an image of dignified defiance. “Women and their world of emotions fascinate me,” says the artist.

Collapse by Cyrcl Collective

(2014)

Radzymińska 140

Painted by a Malmo art collective, Collapse shows the ruins of an ancient column on a dark background adorned with patterns that symbolise war.

Moonlight Wolf by M-City

(2020)

Środkowa 21

The author of hundreds of murals, Moonlight Wolf was created by M-City, a lecturer at the Academy of Fine Arts better-known to his students as Dr. Mariusz Waras. Paying homage to one of this extra-curricular passions, it depicts an off-road rally car being chased by a mechanical wolf.

The Little Prince by Magdalena Rytel

(2017)

Rajgrodzka 13

Though painted by Magdalena Rytel of the Wallart group, it was designed by high school student Julia Boraczewska as part of a community action. Quite surreal, it shows the Little Prince and friends perched on cosmic planets.

Discover more murals in Praga by scanning this code

INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

NORBLIN FACTORY ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

In June

Swing into the Art Box Experience an immersive celebration of Monet and other impressionist legends such as Renoir, Cassatt, Cezanne, Manet and Boudin.

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus and the newly-launched Middle Eastern emporium that is Amar Beirut. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

JOIN THE CLUB

First and foremost though, June in Norblin puts kids first – Children’s Weekend on June 3rd and 4th will see a stack of attractions including concerts, face painting, glitter tattoos, quizzes, science shows and… slime! But there’s more – as of May, it’s now possible to leave your child under the care of the supervisors in Smart Kids Planet while you shop, eat, beautify yourself or take in a film. And remember, don’t overlook the slide in the Plater Building that connects the ground floor to level -1!

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building

In June

Visit Gatsby cocktail bar every Thursday at 7 p.m. for English-language standnights as performed by The Comedy Hole collective. Elektrownia, though, are even more famous for their ‘slow fairs’. Running from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on the first weekend of June, visit for the latest edition of the Jestem Vintage market to stock up on pre-loved clothes, jewellery, vinyl, etc. More events are in the pipeline for June, so check their FB for updates closer to the time.

Get The App!

Designed to make your life a whole lot easier, download the Food Hall app from Elektrownia’s website to order your favourite dishes in advance from the 13 F&B concepts presented in the food hall.

at intervals), it later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-all-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, the Central Bar remains the top check-in.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium.

In June

Koszyki has long reveled in its cultured reputation – from classical evenings to history walks and book signings, there’s rarely a dull month. In June, they’ll be demonstrating that culture has no age. Coinciding with Children’s Day, June 4th will see Marta Plasota lead an afternoon of classical music for kids. As part of this, children will learn what the greatest composers were doing when they were young themselves. Event starts at 1 p.m.

BACK STORY

Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.

The Spice of Life

Spicing up Browary’s summer scene, Bombaj Masala vie for the title of Warsaw’s top Indian…

THE LOOK

Seen from within, Bombaj Masala is quite comfortably the most elegant of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants – under a ribbed, wavy wooden ceiling, revel in a plush interior that feels slick and dynamic whilst simultaneously evoking a heavy sense of colonial era Bombay with its patterned prints, old crates and carved wooden chests. Outside, small as the terrace is, it’s also one of our favourites, staring as it does onto the woonerf that runs through Browary. Shaded by white flowering trees, there are few better places to spend a lazy Sunday watching supercars weave past attractive couples walking pedigree pocket-sized dogs.

ON THE MENU

The food doesn’t let the rest of the operation down. Dedicated to Bombay’s street food scene, a section of the menu devotes itself to bitey snacks as the battered and lightly spiced Chicken 65. Indian standards, meanwhile, are executed with aplomb – Warsaw’s best bhaji? Find that here. Onto mains, and the Madras is a thick and pungent mass of fiery brilliance, though for a real inside secret ask the staff for a vindaloo (it’s off the menu, but they’ll happily fix it for you). Lastly, having feasted lavishly settle in for drinks. As the quite beautiful bar suggests, cocktails are not an afterthought and include a range of Indian-themed cooling swigs like the gin-based Hibiscus Lemonade.

BOMBAJ MASALA WOLA

Krochmalna 61, bombajmasala.pl

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat

In June

Of the planned events, drop by on June 3rd for Koneser’s pet fair and on the 4th for a jewellery market.

20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favourite Michał Bryś and Spółdzielnia, a casual eatery that’s already earned mythical status in Łódź.

On the 24th and 25th, meanwhile, pop in for the ‘Fashion in Warsaw’ festival, a two-day event featuring clothes, cosmetics, accessories, etc. Running throughout the month, the Magic Mind Museum has a range of magic shows lined up every weekend.

NOCNY MARKET

ul. Towarowa 3

(Warszawa Główna)

Still feeling as fresh and exciting as when it first premiered in 2016, Nocny Market brings together dozens of food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-fun collection of ethnic cook-up spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of hollering strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some crazy-patterned Warsaw-themed socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. Set on a disused train platform lit by funky strips of neon, this weekend market-party (open Thurs through to Sun) is a social phenomenon that’s enshrined in local legend.

In June

As of press time, Nocny Market had failed to make their plans known. Of course, that does not mean they have nothing up their sleeves. Quite the opposite, if past form is an indicator, expect each weekend to have a different foodie-style attraction. But even without that, this is not a place that needs a regular roll-call of events. A living organism, every hour seems to offer a different vibe – you haven’t experienced Warsaw until you’ve experienced Nocny Market.

LUNA PARK

Wał Miedzeszyński 407

Located in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex, this overgrown plot has been lent a Coney Island makeover to feature a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A wild world of games, drinks and hard partying weirdness, it’s a haven of hip and a weekend essential that lasts till dawn.

HALA GWARDII

BACK STORY

Built as a market hall during Tsarist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish boxing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty

authenticity and a lingering sense of history that’s appreciated by all. In many ways, it is on these sincere foundations that Gwardii have been able to build a sense of genuine community that has united all ages bands, income brackets and backgrounds.

F&B

There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a farmers’ market whose gems

include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers covering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without sampling an Okonomiyaki from 8 Haci Japanese Bistro, craft beer from Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Wine Corner.

Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

THE GOODBYE

After much speculation, the end of May saw it confirmed that Gwardii as we know it will cease its current operations at the end of June ahead of a planned renovation. Who operates it in the future is anyone’s guess though it is sure that many Gwardii regulars will be willing CBR Events to victory – having first coined the concept of Gwardii as a food hub, and then successfully implementing their vision through a community-based approach, they have done much good for Warsaw.

“I’d like to thank our customers and partners,” says Robert Baj of CBR Events. “In 2017 we took a real risk on this undiscovered space but were able to build an amazing community. We fully believe that we will return to the hall after its renovation – over the last six-years, we’ve shown how seriously we treat our relationship to Gwardii.”

The weekend of June 23rd to June 25th is set to be Gwardii’s final weekend and a leaving party is likely – watch their FB (and ours!) for details. In the meantime, goodbye Gwardii, and thanks for the memories!

In June

Gwardii’s social calendar will begin June with a boxing gala on the third in homage to the hall’s sporting heritage.

The following weekends (June 9th to 11th and June 16th to 18th) will see culinary weekends dedicated to Spain and Portugal respectively.

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Marszałkowska 104/122, warssawajunior.pl

GOOD TO KNOW

Standing all but in the shadow of the Palace of Culture, WARS SAWA JUNIOR cuts a familiar sight to all. Conveniently connected by tram, bus, metro and even bicycle and scooter, today it presents the slick and shining face of modern Warsaw. But then, WARS SAWA JUNIOR has always been at the forefront of Warsaw retail. Opened as one of the first shopping centres in Poland, to this day it enjoys unflagging popularity and has again been

embraced by the Warsaw public following an ambitious revival that has bordered on reinvention.

TO DO

Shopping is the name of the game with highlights including the largest adidas store in Poland as well as the only Uniqlo in the country. Other brands and stores present include Mango, Rituals, Zara, TK Maxx and H&M. On the food front, the central location of WARS SAWA JUNIOR also benefits visitors – consider the

city your salon with dozens of restaurants of every price and persuasion found within a few minutes walk.

EVENTS

There’s a reason why WARS SAWA JUNIOR has come to be considered a hub, and that’s because it goes way beyond the call of duty to engage with visitors and locals of every single age. Recently, that’s been evidenced by a well-attended chocolate festival featuring local chocolatiers, a

To keep ahead, check what’s coming up on Facebook.com/ WarsSawaJuniorMagazyn

specialty coffee zone and artisanal ice cream stands. Paired with a rich roster of children’s workshops, the success of this event embodies their efforts to bond with the public.

With most such fairs taking place in Pasaż Wiecha, the shaded pedestrian street that runs behind Wars Sawa Junior, this area has become a summertime magnet that proves just why Warsaw was voted Europe’s best destination.

Previously, the summer schedule has included vegetarian weekends, street theatre, a chocolate festival, dance events and just about everything else in between.

"This area has become a summertime magnet that proves just why Warsaw was voted Europe’s best destination"

Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.

Inquiries about reservations should be sent to the following e-mail address: rezerwacje@klonn.pl

ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl

THE BIG MOVE

Upping sticks in May, Senor Lucas have settled into new lodgings down the road…

Born as a food truck in the satellite town of Zalesie Górne, Senor Lucas became one of Warsaw’s biggest hits when it opened in the centre in 2020. Found in one of those pokey units half-submerged below street level, this one table wonder quickly earned a rep as the city’s top burrito – soon, it became painfully obvious that a move to bigger premises was immediately required.

Finally, this happened in May with the SL team shifting their kitchen 130-metres up the street. Already though, you get the idea that they underestimated demand –visit on Saturday, and it’s likely you’ll find all tables occupied within the first 30-minutes of business.

As such, a fair degree of chaos reigns with unruly queues, beeping table buzzers, loud groups and even louder music all part of the scene. Effecting the look of a busy taqueria, you order at the counter before squashing up on the central communal table, or taking your chances on the blazing hot terrace (Insider monthly prayer: some parasols for summer, amen).

Yet despite the racket Senor Lucas remains a deeply enjoyable experience, and that’s directly attributed to brick-like burritos and rolled quesadillas filled with lots of juicy flavour contrasts. And there’s tacos, as well –though significantly too oily and overloaded on our visit, these handheld pieces of goodness are up there with Warsaw’s best – a point not

lost on the throngs of foreigners dribbling sauces down their chins.

And yes, let’s finish on the salsa – still needing to be amped up a notch before being able to justify its ‘super-hot’ label, the joyously rich sharpness of the house sauce makes it somewhat addictive. Not without scope for improve-

ment, a further bonus would be some variety on the salsa front. Regardless, these points fail to devalue what has become one of Warsaw’s favourite Mexican treasures.

Senor Lucas Poznańska 26

YOU DIDN’T EXPECT THAT!

Grodziskie beer has been officially called the ‘Best Rated Beer Style in the World’…

Voted by TasteAtlas users, Grodziskie found itself named the planet’s best beer style ahead of more familiar types such as Pale Ale, Pilsner, Tripel, Weissbier, Dunkel and Lambic. Calculated using a system “that recognises real users” and ignores “bots, nationalist or local patriotic ratings”, the beer was lauded for its aroma as well as for its unique flavour profile of “smoky oak notes with herbal, floral or spicy nuances.” Named after its point of origin, it was first brewed in Grodzisk Wielkoposlkie 700-years ago before disappearing in the 1990s. Rescued from the dead, the style was revived little more than a decade ago.

Ask An Expert

Paweł Leszczyński, founder of the Warsaw Beer Festival

WI: How would you describe Grodziskie?

PL: It’s got a bready aroma with hints of apple and pear – it’s a bit smoky as well, like Polish Christmas kompot. There’s also herby, spiced elements. It’s crispy, highly-carbonated and refreshing.

It went extinct, right?

Yes! A big corpo brewery closed the Grodziskie brewery in the 90s and disposed of the yeast.

How did it make its comeback?

A few people, including Andrzej Sadownik and Jan and Wojciech

Szala, recovered the process and the yeast – it’s revival became a common project shared by members of the Polish Homebrewers Association.

Why do you love it?

It’s really refreshing in the summer – you can drink it fast with no negative consequences.

Not everyone shares your enthusiasm for this very ‘specific’ beer – why should we try it?

Everyone needs to be open to new tastes and experiences – but loving smoked food definitely helps. Mostly though, everyone needs to try it at least once just to see how diverse and complex the world of beer really is.

Tell us something we don’t know…

TRY ME!

More and more breweries are experimenting with the Grodziskie style – search ontap.pl to see which Warsaw tap bars will be serving this sip.

It was called ‘beer champagne’ –not just because it was sparkling and refermented, but because in the Communist era the quality was often so bad that the bottles would explode – breweries would lose 4% of stock this way in their cellars!

Anything else?

If it’s not pasteurized, it gets better and better with time.

A SONG TO SUMMER

Muzealna get into the spirit of the season…

You would assume that any restaurant hidden in the basement of a museum would be a dark and dusty relic. Not so in the case of Muzealna. Set in the bowels of the National Museum, it opens out to reveal a minimalistic interior sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers: a communal table manufactured from upcycled fishing nets, colorful 3D-printed totems by UAUPROJECT, cupboards by Maria Jeglińska, customized seats by Studio Rygalik, etc.

For the time being, however, you can forget all that – the summer months are all about the terrace behind. A quiet green idyll, this shaded refuge comes adorned with hanging bulbs criss-crossing above, huge plant pots, and towering trees that sway and shimmer overhead. Isolated from the noise and clatter of downtown, you feel far removed from the world outside.

As for the food, that’s as fresh and contemporary as the aesthetic styling. Of the starters, try resisting the asparagus (PLN 37) served with rocket mayonnaise and fried egg. Nor should you overlook their signature tartare (PLN 49), a stimulating mass of beef, pickled cucumber, shimeji, anchovies, lovage and a wallop of Dijon. Mains, meanwhile, have definitely climbed in price since our last visit (but then, hey, so have they everywhere), but you forgive that when dealing with a veal tenderloin drizzled in a lively jus. But the final word goes to the desserts. These are next level with glazed strawberries served with a meringue that snaps and crackles. Light and playful, it’s a song dedicated to the summer.

Muzealna Al. Jerozolimskie 3, restauracjamuzealna.pl

Pizza Box

PIE HARD!

Warsaw Pizzeria Earns Prestigious Spot Among Europe's Finest

A SLICE OF GOODNESS

Polly Pizza’s social campaign…

Already established as one of Warsaw’s top Neapolitan pizzerias, Polly Pizza (Puławska 24) have revealed a charitable initiative that has seen them donate 1% of their monthly turnover to environmental and social projects.

So far, donations have been made to the Mysikrólik Foundation, OTOP, Our Earth, WOŚP, Eco4Life and Gaja Club.

Listed for the third consecutive year, a Warsaw pizzeria has been named among the best in Europe as per an annual ranking released by the Italian-based portal w. Ranked 38th, Ciao a Tutti (Al. Niepodległości 217) were praised for their Neapolitan understanding of pizza and the pizzeria concept. “The pizza with four tomatoes and the mushroom and prosciutto are a must-try,” the portal added.

Founded in 2012 by Michał Wesołowski and his future wife to be, Joanna Księżopolska, the couple launched their project just after Wesołowski had graduated. “I was at that age when you just think you have nothing to lose,” he told the press. Since expanding outwards to include two more pizzerias in their little empire (Merliniego 5 and Hubnera 2), Wesołowski revealed that the secret of their success lies in the ingredients. “After all, anyone can make pizza after watching some YouTube tutorials – but to do it well you need to have the right ingredients and always be consistent.”

EMPANADA EUPHORIA

Warsaw’s snack scene may lag behind Europe’s other major capitals but it’s fast catching up. In this regard, no place has won as many admirers this past year as Chimi & Churri, an intimate alcove sparingly decorated with a map of Argentina and a miniature Argentine flag. Where design touches are concerned, nothing more is needed for that would only detract from the headline act: a counter filled with military-style formations of delicious empanadas.

Praised for their authenticity by the city’s South American population, these pasty-like pockets of flaky goodness come with a variety of stuffings, among them Argentine beef with Malbec, and the equally fantastic pork and mango sauce. Vegetarians, too, are catered for, with the options including caprese (fresh Albahaca basil, tomato and mozzarella) and the

“

An incredible place of heart and passion, Chimi & Churri has found itself fast-tracked into the realm of Warsaw legend

BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Argentine spot that everyone needs to know…

Funghi (seasonal mushrooms, dried tomato, mozzarella).

Handmade on site, these are paired with the house chimichurri sauce and are best followed by Alfajores cookies filled with dulce de leche. And just to show they really mean business, wash it down with one of their Mates. An incredible place of heart and passion, Chimi & Churri has found itself fast-tracked into the realm of Warsaw legend.

ON THE FIZZ

Already known for its hip, pared down design, super-cool vinyl selection and its exceptional coffee, you’d have thought that Hałas couldn’t get much better. Well, it just has. Quietly premiering a couple of months back, the café have now launched their own line of soft drinks under the name of Fonto Fizz.

want to add some possibilities to the food and drinks sector by presenting healthier and more interesting drinks than are currently on the market.” This has not been said lightly – coming in June, we’re promised the debut of a citrus punch (calamansi, grapefruit, lemon) and a cherry pop (cherry, lime, cinnamon).

Chimi & Churri Grzybowska 4, chimichurrieurope.com

“We were inspired by the craft beer movement,” says Jakub Poręcki of Hałas. “In much the same way, we wanted to start our own artisanal soft drink revolution.” Covering coffee-based angles with their tinned cold brews and coffee tonics, the brand has also extended to present such sips as their highly unusual pineapple & hibiscus beverage.

“Ideally,” says Poręcki, “we

Named so after the Esperanto word meaning ‘spring’ and ‘source’, Fonto Fizz have already gained a devoted band of followers – available in Hałas, plus a handpicked assortment of fellow specialty cafés, this looks set to become one of the swigs of the summer.

Elsterska 10, fb.com/halas. warsaw

Hałas

The new drinks brand shaking up Warsaw…

A Word In Private

Commonly billed as the greatest chef in Poland, we join Nuta’s Andrea Camastra to hear the topics on his mind…

In Nuta, food is awarded a sense of ceremony becoming, almost, a hallowed form of art – it is to be marvelled at, discreetly photographed, savoured, and then, finally, its nuances discussed around the table. Expressive in its aesthetics and flavour, it is the personification of Andrea Camastra’s character – an extension of him. Increasingly outspoken, yet always playful and charismatic, this is a chef whose effervescence naturally captivates all those in his presence.

You see this during service as he flits around tables or calls into his kitchen. It’s a part he plays well, excelling and revelling in the role of animated firebrand. But this is not some crowd-pleasing act, and that becomes apparent when you catch the chef after service sitting with his guests or, even better, when he’s at his most revealing: smoking a cigarette outside his personal domain.

“I’m frustrated,” he says during one such break. “I’m frustrated that all I’m hearing about nowadays from restaurants operating in the ‘fine dining’ sector is that they can’t sustain their success any longer because of costs. Well I tell you what, noone forced them to hire 100 people. When they were winning stars and other awards, they weren’t complaining, but now all of a sudden they think it’s a problem.”

For Camastra, these places have brought trouble upon themselves. “If you think you need a massive staff to achieve

a certain level, then fair enough, but noone is telling you that it’s required. It’s not like Michelin issue guidelines about how many people you should employ –in this industry, you set your own rules.”

Certainly, Nuta have chosen a light-footed approach. “I’ve got eight boys in the kitchen, two dishwashers, and five or six people on the floor. With office staff, there’s only around 20 people and yet we operate at the very highest level. True, I’m not going to sugar-coat it, I had to sack 200 idiots before getting the right team, but that’s to be expected before you find a unit that you can really call your family.”

Finding this blend has been fundamental to Nuta’s soaring success. “I don’t have many rules, but I do expect people to show commitment, respect, care, love, and passion. I don’t care about someone’s CV, as long as they have the above qualities then I know that they’re not going to cut corners or skip responsibility. When you choose people for their personality, you achieve harmony. Everyone I’ve got here, they’re strong people, and they care for this place as if it were their own.”

Cutting his teeth in the old school, Camastra’s first kitchen job came at the age of 11. “It was a spartan restaurant in Puglia that was serving 1,000 people per day, but it was there that I learned how to open raw seafood,” he says. “Kitchens back then were brutal places, some-

times physically abusive, but while that was wrong I think we’ve gone to another extreme that’s also not right.”

Railing against the sensitivities of the modern world, Camastra is damning in his indictment. “People have got lazier and lazier while getting louder about stress –but guess what, if you’ve got a passion for what you do then you don’t care about that. You know from the outset what the job involves, so it’s crazy to complain about the hours or the money or whatever else. If you want something, you need to make sacrifices, not sit around moaning.”

All of this, he theorises, is symptomatic of the times. “Never before have we had such a moment in history where so many people have become famous just for showing their tits.” Clearly, it is something that

Camastra has little patience for, espousing as he does ethics of hard work. “I’ve been told I’m temperamental, but I think what I do works,” he says. “Look at the kitchen here – all of these people have worked with me for nine years. We’ve become a bunch of friends. A proper family.”

These are not mere words. Although often fantastically innovative in its food, this is a restaurant run on traditional values that have bred trust, friendship and human connection. “Of course I’m glad when guests tell me that we’ve taken them on an incredible journey, but one of the biggest complements we can receive is when people notice that the team here are so cool. I’m glad because none of that is an act – we’re close friends who are united by our dedication.”

Tasting Notes

Nuta has two tasting menus to choose from, the Virtuoso (PLN 450 per head) and the Maestro (PLN 590). Opting for the Maestro, highlights included:

Chłodnik / Mizeria

Among the opening snacks, these orb-like gems are Camastra’s magnificent interpretation of two Polish classics. Liquefied inside, so eaten in a bite, they respectively burst open in refreshing flavours of fermented beetroot and cucumber.

Bread

Boring, yeah? Not at Nuta. Featuring such hits as beetroot bread with dried plum and walnuts, the bread alone is a testament to the kitchen’s attention to detail.

Baltic Sea Trout

On lightly smoked yogurt and sour cream find vegetables cooked ‘Greek-style’, cubed Baltic trout, sea trout caviar and onion broth. “This will drive you to the madhouse, it’s shockingly good,” says Camastra. “Then, to add insult to injury, a brioche stuffed with oscypek cheese and homemade guanciale.”

Turbot

Sprinkled with Polish five-star caviar, crowned with a potato chip butterfly, and positioned on blanched spinach and a sauce based on the turbot’s bones, this turbot like you have not tasted before. Extraordinary.

Chicken

And let the trumpets toot for the French spring chicken – served with wild garlic foam and a stew of green peas, celery and carrot, find it finished with a chicken-based stock with hints of green pea.

Cheese

The ultimate mind-bender, the cheese board comes with a glass of pear consommé topped with a warm gorgonzola foam as well as a dish of pecorino romano cheese served on a honey and bergamot ice cream with honey caviar and a dried walnut crunch. You could eat this for every day of your life and never get bored.

Dessert

For the final ride, strap in for a selection of desserts whose look alone is enough to leave you panting: honey cake with blackcurrant, Sicilian blood orange sorbet and milk / honey foam; a puff pastry on rhubarb and blackcurrant jam; and a series of chocolate power punches that include their take on the Ferrero Roche: a hazelnut parfait coated in toffee before being covered again in dark chocolate. It takes the breath away.

Nuta Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

PHOTOGRAPHYS BY KEIVN DEMARIA

The Buzz

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss.

PICK OF THE MONTH

The Eatery

Koszykowa 49A

This attractive off-street space comes swathed in white-on-white colours –blissfully cocooned from the outside world, and decorated orb-like installations, this chic but casual space gives Polish food a modernised translation. Visiting for our May issue, we were bowled over by the pork cheeks served with a punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquified peas and red cabbage.

FORMAL & EXTRAORDINARY

Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

EXQUISITE

Nolita

Wilcza 46

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died.

FOR THE TASTING MENU

Rozbrat 20

Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

DATE NIGHT

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate,

labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a decked courtyard terrace for when it’s not.

WINE & DINE

Dyletanci

Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

NEW WAVE

hub.praga

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

MICHELIN CONTENDER

Nuta

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Let Andrea Camastra take you into the realms of the spectacular at what we figure to be Poland’s finest dining experience. His dizzying takes on Polish classics simply are unbelievable in both taste and composition. Sophisticated but never ceremonial, this restaurant is a banger.

FINE DINING

Europejski Grill

Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the

contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

ALL-ROUNDER

Browar Warszawski

Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights

YOU ALWAYS HAVE A TABLE

and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as tiny antique details. While most visit for the house-brewed beer, the upscale gastro-pub menu has many moments of excellence.

THE BLOGGERS FAVE

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country,

The Buzz

Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast.

NEW POLISH Źródło

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence.

WELCOME TO POLAND

Polana Smaków

E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

BREAD & BREAKFASTS

Baken

Żurawia 6/12

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette.

CASUAL SCENE

Bibenda

Nowogrodzka 10

Preserving the pre-war heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the now meat-free menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers. The inner courtyard is essential in summer.

GARDEN BITES

Klonn

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavours are a fantasy of skill.

THAI FLAVOURS

Ahaan

Unii Lubelskiej 1

Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion.

RED HOT INDIAN

Guru

Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is –head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits we;; with the meaty skewers.

PERFECT PIZZA

Pollypizza NEOpolitan

Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

SEAFOOD ADVENTURES

Tuna

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes.

CLINCH THE DEAL

Butchery & Wine

Żurawia 22

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital and is ideal for expense account feasting.

HARDCORE CARNIVORE

Mięsny

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

THE UNEXPECTED MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down

plants and busy tables filled with new media types.

ESSENTIAL CHECK-IN

Happa To Mame

Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also include dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds.

SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR

Ceviche Bar

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw.

SHOW TIME! Chaton

Foksal 19

Increasingly, there are those that demand more than just a good night out – they want the extraordinary. For those people, it’s to Chaton that they head, a premium experience that’s luxuriously finished. Gathering to enjoy world class stage performers whilst revelling in the bosom of refined elegance, this is where the discerning night owl descends to enjoy a union of fine drinks, lavish dinners and high-octane entertainment. For when only the best will do, Chaton is the answer. Full review coming soon.

Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails.

CITY CENTRE VEGAN

Peaches Gastro Girls

Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop

Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II

52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re

The Buzz

definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style.

UNFORGETTABLE GELATO

Dal Dalla Gelato

Leszczyńska 4

Working on a trial and error approach, Luca Dalla Costa mixes Venetian techniques with the freshest ingredients to create a magic world where weaknesses don’t exist – at least, we haven’t found any. Even making their own savoiardi biscuits for their tiramisu ice cream, the passion is only beaten by the quality of the end product.

CRAFT BEERS & FOOD

Syty Chmiel

Marszałkowska 10/16

Though undeniably large, intimacy isn’t short in supply, and that’s down to the comfortable armchairs, atmospheric lo-lighting and personal trinkets that reflect the passions of the owners (skateboards, for instance). The taps offer a rotation of craft goodness, but just as many people gather for the food of Pan Tasak: his menu is a sincere celebration of Poland’s rural greatness.

OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty

Vis-a-Vis

Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of the mainstream fizz peddled by the other nearby bars.

SUNSET PINTS

Cuda Na Kiju

Nowy Świat 6/12

Slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters, this contemporary-minded space (15 taps, pinball machines and a super-cool spirally staircase) is capable of drawing hundreds when the warm weather hits. With the first hint of sun, out come the deckchairs to offer ringside seats of the sun setting over Jerzolimskie.

BEER GEEKS

Jabeerwocky

Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let

you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior.

THE HEART OF POLSKI

CRAFT

Kufle i Kapsle

Nowogrodzka 25

VEGAN BRUNCH Lychees

Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles.

Respectful of the building’s prewar heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw.

NATURAL WINES

Rascal

Moliera 6

Reputedly Europe’s largest bar specialising in natural wines, this former canteen for ballet dancers is one of the hottest addresses in town – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers encamped here. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, the interior is a chic work that’s outdone only by the Insta-friendly garden.

LOCAL WINES

Brać

Sierakowskiego 4A

Focused on highlighting the wines of Poland, this alone says much for the boldness of their concept. As resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać rip-up the rule book to present on-edge sips from niche producers you’ve probably never heard of.

Bathed in a rich, red neon glow at night, it looks pretty divine as well – chic and stylish but with hints of retro flair.

CASUAL WINEY EVENINGS

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more in line with entering your favorite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and

zaps of neon.

FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS

Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

VENETIAN ALLURE

Va Bene Cicchetti

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks.

A SOPHISTICATED TOP SHELF

Aura

Hoża 27

Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Fitting into a tiny nook, Aura’s other big sell-point is their collection of bourbon.

COCKTAILS WITH STYLE

Zaremba

Nowogrodzka 15

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto a compact interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!

ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

BEST o f W ARS AW

20 20

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

The Buzz

moves into cocktail territory with sophisticated drinks crafted from premium components.

INSIDER CLASSIC NIGHT

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched!

FOR THE MUSIC

Chmury / Hydrozagadka

11 Listopada 22

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Beirut & Kraken

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

NEW & NOTABLE

Gemba

Chmielna 21

Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the

Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, this inclusive space draws a crowd that’s late 20s upwards. There’s a hell of a lot to enjoy here: craft beers, strange cocktails, Polish tapas, DJ sets, jazz jams and ‘drag bingo’ serve to only reinforce that impression.

STUDENT CARNAGE

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos.

IRISH MAYHEM

The Shamrock

Zgoda 5

Little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign, the atmosphere compensates for the aesthetic shortcomings. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis behind the bar –high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

ALT. ENTERTAINMENT

Worek Kości

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are great.

FOR THE MUSIC

Młodsza Siostra

Dobra 14/16

Smuggled inside a scruffy courtyard fringed by lock-up garages, this alt. space has shades of Berlin and Budapest with its unforced cool. Within, it’s a creaky spot filled with wobbly furnishing and maverick sounds. At times claustrophobic, the dimensions lend themselves well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to concerts from the likes of the Death Addict Society.

NORTHERN NIGHTS

Havana

Słowackiego 16/18

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters. In summer, the terrace is the place to be.

SHOW TIME!

Chaton

Foksal 19

Chaton is where the celebs and top-earners gather to enjoy world class stage performers prance about whilst revelling in the bosom of refined luxury. Full review coming soon.

FOR EVENING GLAM Question

Grzybowska 60

Billing itself as one of Poland’s clutch of truly elite gathering spots, Question presents a varied diet of electronica, a chic design and a menu involving top-class cocktails and exquisite snacks. Full review coming soon.

FUR SOMETHING PAW-SOME!

Purr Purr

Pokorna 2

Purr Purr divides itself into two distinct segments – for openers, you’ve got a standard café-eatery area complete with a counter and a long forest-coloured banquette running down the wall – but then, you’ve got a gated area in which you’ll find half a dozen cats snoozing, stretching and prowling about. Asian cocktails, specialty coffee, craft beers and Korean-Japanese bites round-out the experience. Expect queues at the weekend.

FOR COFFEE IN THE GARDEN

Roślina Schroegera 80

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their

shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though it’s the magical garden that everyone talks about.

COFFEE & CAKE

Tonka

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent, but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes.

COFFEE OF LEGEND

Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café

JAZZ PO POLSKU

anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy.

FOR VINYL CHILLOUT

Hałas

ul. Elsterska 10

Divide Hałas into two sections: first, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Then, smuggled in the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email.

2023

jazzpopolsku.pl

JASSMINE CLUB

WILCZA 73

THE HOLY TRINITY!

Three essential experiences that say Warsaw in summer…

The Tourist Tram

Running until September, those wishing to see the most Warsaw has to offer have a choice of transport options that will take them past the city’s key attractions. Of these, best-known is the No. 36 tram vintage-style tram that rattles each Saturday and Sunday from Pl. Narutowicza to Metro Marymont. Saved from the Communist era, Jelcz and Ikarus buses are being used to cover Route 100 – running weekends from noon till 6 p.m., stops include Łazienki, the Old Town and the zoo over in Praga. Lastly, three ferries will also operate daily to take people over the river. Costing nothing, departure points include Saska beach, the beach in front of the National Stadium and the area around the fountain park.

Multimedia Fountains

Enjoying its twelfth summer, Warsaw’s multimedia fountain has asserted its claim as one of the city’s biggest summer pulls by announcing a new show to replace ‘the legends of Warsaw’ on which its repertoire has been based these past four years. Instead, this year takes on a Disney theme with shows incorporating Frozen, The Lion King and Moana. Capable of displaying 16 million colours and firing 30,000 litres of water per minute, the 2,850 sq/m fountain complex sees spectacular audio-visual shows take place every Friday and Saturday at 9.30 p.m. Pulling in a million people per year, get there early to stake your place on the grassy embankment that leads down towards the fountains from the New Town.

Chopin Recitals

Since 1959 – the year after the Chopin statue was replaced following its wartime smelting by the Germans – it’s been a Warsaw rite of passage to gather on the lawns around the monument for free Sunday piano recitals. Drawing some of the biggest piano talents in the world, performances take place each Sunday at noon and 4 p.m. Often attracting thousands of viewers to the pretty, rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park, it’s vital you add ‘piano in the park’ to any summer bucket list.

AROUND US A SEA OF FIRE

POLIN’s newest exhibition highlights the fate of civilians during the Ghetto Uprising to stunning effect…

Sharply contrasted against Warsaw’s blue summer skies, POLIN’s latest temporary exhibition is a dark, oppressive, and almost stifling experience. Yet it is also essential. Opened to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the Jewish Ghetto Uprising in April, this unique exhibition – reputedly the first of its kind in the world – flips the commonly told narrative by overlooking the story of the Jewish insurgents to instead focus on the civilians instead.

The first such civic rebellion in Nazi-occupied Europe, the Ghetto Uprising was launched in the face of insurmountable odds on April 19th, 1942. Yet despite a collection of arms that was limited to just two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles and 500 pistols, the tenacity of the Jewish fighters – many of whom were armed with little more than humble petrol bombs – frustrated Nazi efforts to quash the revolt. Only on May 16th was Jurgen Stroop finally able to report to Himmler that “Jewish Warsaw had ceased to exist”.

But whilst the heroic story of Jewish Warsaw’s suicidal resistance has been told many times, far less is known about

the 50,000 civilians trapped in the crossfire – that is until now. Anchored around the written testimony of twelve Ghetto inhabitants, the exhibition pursues several different strands – perhaps most touching of all, we learn what it was to love whilst chaos reigned supreme.

With the Ghetto later levelled by the Nazis, physical exhibits form a minority – rather than looking, expect to be reading whilst here. However, for those whose attention spans aren’t that generous, there are also several everyday artefacts, many of which were recovered during the construction of POLIN. Among these are combs, coins, inkpots and spectacles.

Moreover, the exhibition presents several never-seen-before photographs – included in

this are those taken covertly by a Polish fireman who was called into action to ensure the Ghetto inferno would not spread to the Aryan side of Warsaw. Shot by Zbigniew Leszek Grzywaczewski, these were only recently discovered having been stored away in an attic. Utterly compelling, the experience arguably peaks towards the end inside a warren of rooms purposefully designed to evoke the suffocating, claustrophobic sense of sheltering in a cellar.

Around Us A Sea of Fire

When: ongoing until Jan 8th, 2024

Where: POLIN (Anielewicza 6)

Admission: PLN 25-30

Further info: polin.pl

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary

Szwoleżerów 4

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL (multiple

locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a

Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

warsaw montessori family

„Erdkinder” Middle School

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective interna-

tional school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught

in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska

7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

PET CAMPS!

Are you considering getting a pet but would prefer if your child gained some experience handling a dog first? Or maybe your day-to-day reality dictates that you can’t keep a pet, but you’d still love your kid to spend some time around dogs, cats and other four-legged buddies? Who knows, maybe you just want the little people in your life to improve their English in the most fun way possible – whilst walking a doggie, cuddling a kitty, playing catch, preparing their dinner or visiting a pet store!

Offering the opportunity to do all of the above, English-language Pet Care Summer Camps have been tailor-made by a qualified Montessori teacher. These half- and full-day camps, designed for two children per week, come guaranteed to take your kids away from their screens whilst opening their eyes to the magic of pets. Discounts available for kids from the same family. But there’s more! Offering boarding, pet sitting and dog walking service, book now for summer.

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined

Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. Further features include a rooftop restaurant. ul. Bracka 9, vitkac.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3 Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

6 Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum

Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

The Warsaw Rising Museum

ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism

ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7 POLIN

ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

1

Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

CROSS IT OFF

With the weather perking up, you’ll find no better Insta spot this June than on Gdański Bridge…

It’s a brave call to make, but there can be no bridge in Warsaw that’s more Instagrammed than Gdański. The attractions are threefold: firstly, you’ve got an epic neon positioned over the inky black waters. Then, a mindboggling stairwell that spirals endlessly towards the sky. Mostly though, it is the bridge itself that draws influencers and insta addicts.

Stunning to cross, the lower-level features tram tracks embedded into weathered wooden boards. Scissored in shadows cast from criss-crossing steel support pillars, the pedestrian walkways running each side promise a walk to remember –even more so come dusk when the Wisła basks in the dusky half-light of summer. It’s a sight befitting of a bridge steeped in history – opened in 1946, this became the first permanent bridge to be built following the war.

GREY WOLF WARSAW

2022

NOWY