Warsaw Insider November 2019 #279

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

NOVEMBER 2019

The Praga Issue UNCOVERING WARSAW’S RIGHT SIDE

279 11/2019

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON PARIS ZIMMERMANN

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editorial FEATURES

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 Prowling Praga Your comprehensive guide to Warsaw's east end

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

EAT!

25 First Bite:

Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

Mr. Greek Souvlaki 26 Foodie News 27 Review: BykBar 28 Review: Challenge '32 30 Review: Lobo Bistro

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65 First Sips:

Jabeerwocky 66 Interview Nowina

DISCOVER 79 Last Chance:

36 x Rembrandt 80 Editor's Pick: Museum of Life Under Communism 82 Exhibition: Gydnia-Tel Aviv at POLIN 84 Museums 88 Essentials 102 Map 104 Last Page November 1st

t’s a morbid old month is November in Poland. Without wishing to drive you to suicide, it begins with the country in lockdown as it pays homage to the dead (for more on that, see our back page), and finishes with everyone spluttering as flu season hits. And sandwiched in between, expect the trees to turn skeletal and the skies to switch to smog. But offering a rare chink of light amid all this death and desperation is your brand new Insider! This edition we put Praga under the microscope, exploring the corners and nooks of this once maligned suburb – formerly regarded as a lawless bandit land, it’s bloomed into one of the most dynamic districts in Poland, becoming a creative hub in the process and a downright feast for the senses. As always, hope you enjoy it and see you the next time!

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover It's our Praga bumper issue, so it made sense for our resident artist to thrust it on the cover - hey presto, enjoy the fruits of his labor! (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

DRINK!

NOVEMBER 2019

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PROWLING PRAGA

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

THE FLIP SIDE OF TOWN

SHUTTERSTOCK

For years regarded as the dark side of Warsaw, the Praga suburb now finds itself enjoying a remarkable renaissance…

ifteen years or so ago somebody once related a revealing story about Praga. It goes thus: seeking something of a covert thrill, a group of expat housewives from Konstancin decided to break from routine and journey across the river to see in the flesh how the other half lived – adopting a safety in numbers approach, they set off convoystyle, only to prematurely abort their excursion when one of them had a panic attack straight after crossing the bridge. They had, it was swiftly decided, all seen enough. I mention this not as a sly dig towards the refined sensibilities of the chattering class, but rather to demonstrate the weighty reputation that Praga once carried. To some it instilled terror. For most, though, it was simply an area of neglect in irreversible decline. “There’s no point going there,” was the general consensus. Much has changed. When benchmarking Warsaw’s progress, it’s commonplace to refer to its blooming downtown skyscrapers as the most visible evidence of economic evolution. Arguably, however, it is the development of Praga that’s a more accurate yardstick. Here, after all, the unthinkable has happened. Once an area of desperate deprivation, today it’s become a poster child for regeneration. The oldest recorded mention of Praga dates to 1432 and it was absorbed into Warsaw in 1791. Just three years later, it was left ransacked and ruined by the Russians in response to the Kościuszko Insurrection. Its fortunes faced a further blow when, in 1807, Napoleon Bonaparte ordered the suburb’s further destruction to provide materials for the fortification of the city. A new lease of life was offered by the Industrial

Revolution. Factories and tenements sprung up and from between 1882 and the late 1920s its population swelled from 16,000 to in excess of 200,000. For the most part, these people were of the blue-collar class, and living conditions were cramped and crude. It was the war, mind you, that was to have the biggest impact of all. Though Praga averted the widespread devastation of Warsaw’s left side, it was left reeling after its lost population was replaced, in essence, by outof-towners, social rejects and assorted ‘unwanted’. Compounding the situation yet further was the government’s decision to focus all rebuilding efforts on the core of the capital, a situation that allowed Praga to fester forgotten. The political transition of 1989 did nothing to ease this, and while the rest of Warsaw fast-tracked itself to riches, Praga was left abandoned, a rotting remnant of the toxic past. Slowly, its luck turned. Forced out of the center by rising rents, an emerging band of artists and creatives began settling in Praga around about the mid-00s, leading some to make optimistic comparisons to areas like Kreuzberg in Berlin. Over time, however, such analogies have gained traction. Buoyed by both private and public investments, the last few years have witnessed a meteoric transformation. Now an increasingly popular hub for alternate arts and start-ups, its air of ambition has become impossible to dispute. Simultaneously, and furthering its appeal, is its sheer sense of difference; in many respects, it retains the feeling of an autonomous city. Still heavily scuffed and frayed, its raffish, roguish character is never far from view. Heavy on contrasts and contradictions, Praga is an irresistible cauldron of grit and edge, history and vision. warsawinsider.pl

WALK… THE WILD SIDE Trumpeted by local government as one of Europe’s best riverfront boulevards, the revamped left bank has had positive press aplenty. In direct contrast, the Praga side offers wild, untamed nature that looks all the better in autumn’s golden glow. Of the city’s more enduring urban myths is the tale of a Japanese delegation asking the Mayor how much the city had spent on creating the illusion of such natural glory. “What amazing landscaping,” they are said to have gushed. Though strictly apocryphal, the story says much for the environmental wonder that is the Wisła’s right rump.

BE… A VODKA CONNOISSEUR A fundamental cornerstone of the Koneser

complex, The Polish Vodka Museum (muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl) features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple.Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed. Now you’re an expert, try the drinks for yourself in their onsite bar."

FEEL… THE BLUE Appearing on Ząbkowska in 2010, Marek Sułek’s jolly blue angels have, by many, been interpreted as a homage to the courtyard shrines so characteristic of the area. For Sułek, a multi-disciplinary artist specializing in sculpture, photography and painting, they’re something else: “They aren’t meant to be religious,” he shrugs, “they’re simply the guardian angels I once dreamt about when I was five.” Ironically, they could do with their own guardian angel. Repeatedly targeted by vandals, the 40-kilo fiberglass works have come up against paint attacks, theft and even decapitation. Buy one for home at the gift shop in the Museum of Praga.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT VODKA MUSEUM (COURTESY OF) AND ANGELS (SHUTTERSTOCK)

SEEK... OUT A SHRINE Approximately 300 courtyard shrines

await your discovery in Warsaw, of which around 120 sit in the battered backyards of the Praga district. Embellished with flowers, greenery, twinkly lights and assorted add-ons, the history of these so-called kapliczki is related to the country’s tortured past. Principally appearing during the Nazi occupation, they were created at a time when courtyards were regarded safer places of worship than churches. Seen as a “public affirmation of faith,” they brought with them a sense of “security, solidarity and even freedom,” and while the overwhelming majority were born during WWII, some are said to date from the years that the city fell under Tsarist rule.

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PROWLING PRAGA

The Pearl Of Praga

Launched two-years back, Koneser has rapidly become the calling card of Praga…

n many respects, the opening of Centrum Praskie Koneser was a coming of age for the area – a litmus test to see if Praga was ready to take the next big step forward. The challenge has been relished. Originally built in 1897, for years the complex housed a vodka distillery which had the simple remit of keeping the city’s Tsarist garrison supplied with their booze ration. As German troops approached the city in 1915, the decision was taken to pour the vodka into the streets, a move that sparked a riotous free-for-all among

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

the disbelieving locals. With just occasional war-enforced breaks, production continued right until the start of this century, when, finally, its last tenant called it quits. Acquired by BBI Development, what followed was a bold project to transform the Neo Gothic complex into a mixed-use development housing offices, restaurants, stores and apartments. Opened to huge fanfare in 2017, what some saw as a gamble has evidently paid off. Designed to harmoniously co-exist with the

existing architectural elements, new buildings have slotted in with seamless ease, and these structures have been rapidly in-filled with numerous ventures: notably, where visitors are concerned, that means cool food and drink concepts and a museum of vodka. Aesthetically pleasing, vibrant and dynamic, it is everything that the capital of the future wishes to become – and here it is in Praga. Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

REACH… FOR THE HEAVENS Standing on the district’s frontline, the Cathe-

TOUCH… SCARS OF WAR Like the rest of the city, Praga too rose in rebellion against the Nazi

occupation on August 1st, 1944, the difference being that it took only a few days of fierce fighting for the divisional commander, Lt. Col. Żurowski, to realize that the slaughter was one way. His order of August 4th commanding his troops to stop fighting is credited with saving Praga from outright destruction, yet even so evidence of the fighting can still be seen on the bullet pocked walls. Other marks of war include a German bunker on the corner of Panieńska and Jasińskiego as well as a monumental statue at the top of Okrzei honoring the Kościuszko Division’s attempts to aid insurgents fighting on the left side of the river. Weighing 48-tons, cheeky locals have renamed it the “five beers” statue due to its likeness to a geezer placing a bar order.

dral of St. Florian & St. Michael on Floriańska 3 is, quite literally, Praga’s spiritual gateway. Built between in 1888 and 1901, construction of this bastion was a retaliation to the ongoing Russification of Warsaw. Built to hold 10,000, the cathedral sparked a wave of imitations across Poland. Distinguished for its 75-meter towers, it was dynamited two days before the Germans withdrew from Praga – all that survived, miraculously some say, were a pair of statues of the Cathedral’s patron saints. Beginning in 1947, the rebuild took a staggering 23-years.

CATCH… THEM WHILE YOU CAN

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT LEFT BEAR PHOTO NAC

Bears have been an inextricable part of Praga since 1952 when an enclosure was first added to Solidarności as part of a plan to make the newly-completed W-Z highway more user-friendly. The current creatures have been there for years, but will be the last living residents to be kept captive on this concrete island. Plans are afoot to turn it into a rock garden – complete with a bear statue – once its inhabitants pass away.

SEEK… THE BACK STORY Striking a balance between traditionalist and contemporary approaches, the Praga Museum (Targowa 50/52) chronicles the area’s story in a way that feels charmingly irresistible. Of the highlights is the so-called Flying Carpet, a vertical strip festooned with trinkets and treasures that’d you’d have once seen being sold on the streets: dodgy hairdryers, dangerous toys and the kind of gold heels you’d see on a hooker. A trove of quirky curiosities, finish off by heading to a viewing platform positioned right above the patchwork stall roofs of Różycki Market.

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PROWLING PRAGA

DON’T… LISTEN OUT Unveiled in 2006, the monument on the corner of Floriańska

the Bazar Różyckiego marketplace is entrenched in Praga folklore, playing a central part in the development of the local dialect, culture and general way of life. Currently in its death rattle, many of the 250 stalls have closed, leaving only a handful selling rusting junk and low-value clothing: walking down the largely deserted tangle of alleys as wedding dresses dangle from their hangers dancing sadly in the breeze is one of Warsaw’s more surrealistic experiences. It’s a far cry from the old days. Synonymous with black market dealings, it thrived during the hardship years of Nazism and Communism. Even until recently, it was considered the place to head for anything from passports to pistols. Now at the center of a tug-of-war between Różycki’s ancestors, who own two thirds of the plot, and the city, who own the rest, pie-in-the-sky plans include a fancy social and shopping hub in the spirit of Hala Koszyki – don’t hold your breath.

SHIVER… AT RUSSIA Reminders of Russia’s presence have, for the most part,

been discreetly removed, but some have proved just too big to airbrush: for Exhibit A, refer to the onion-domed Orthodox Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene (Solidarności 52). Built in the 1860s to “mark the influence of the Russian people on Warsaw”, its interiors are a feast of excess and feature mosaics recovered after the 1920s demolition of the immense Nevsky Cathedral that once towered over what is today Pl. Piłsudskiego. Theological students once studied next door, though following the war the building was used as a place of torture by the NKVD – a somber plaque remembers the victims.

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK

EXPLORE… THE BIZARRE Inaugurated in 1882 by pharmacist Julian Różycki,

and Kłopotowskiego celebrates the bands that once stalked the courtyards of Praga entertaining homeowners in return for money thrown down from the windows. Designed by sculptor Andrzej Renes, it’s particularly striking when illuminated at night. Originally fitted to parp out classic local songs, electrical wear and tear has meant that for the time being the monument stands silent (much to the relief of those living close by…).

MAŁA Z Ą B KO W S K A

Edge your way down Mała in the evening and it’s hard not to feel a frisson of excitement / fear. First mapped out in 1877, time has stood still here, with only the occasional satellite dish suggesting that this dark, brooding street has wheezed into the 21st century. Roman Polański was so struck by its gritty authenticity that he shot many of the Ghetto scenes for The Pianist on Mała. Should you see the letters LSR painted anywhere, then those are genuine leftovers from the German occupation and mark the way to an air raid shelter.

STALOWA

Though still looking rough and ready, there are some that tip Stalowa to be the new Ząbkowska. Home to six galleries and art studios, a sprinkling of large format murals (inc. I Love Ania, which, get this, was actually funded by McDonald’s), and a boutique hotel, hopes are high that this street is on the verge of opening a new chapter.

TARGOWA

The Word On The Streets The Praga streets everyone needs to know…

To this day, Praga’s main artery maintains an air of chaos with impromptu street sellers often adding to the havoc by setting up shop on the pavements to hawk their wares. Key points include the State Railway building at No. 74. It was here that Poland’s post-war provisional government was briefly headquartered. No. 63, meanwhile, served fleetingly as home to Polish Radio, with its founders including Wladysław Szpilman (a.k.a. The Pianist). Those looking to be reunited with their families would, it is said, hang photos from the butchers hooks on the ground floor.

BRZESKA

Notoriously once dubbed “the most dangerous street in Warsaw”, there are stretches of Brzeska that remain uncomfortable to visit – at any time of day. But though historically deprived and neglected, shoots of recovery can be noted and nowadays the area between Ząbkowska and Bazar Rożyckiego can tout a vibrant scene thanks to venues like Pallone, Praska and Offside.

ZĄBKOWSKA

BRZESKA

Praga’s revival owes much to Ząbkowska, a street that has become emblematic of the area’s new direction. Featuring restored tenements, crowded bars, cobbled streets and enticing courtyards, it has become the social and creative heart of the city’s right side, a fact affirmed by the revitalization of the former Koneser Vodka Factory. warsawinsider.pl

PROWLING PRAGA

WATCH… OUT! A surefire candidate for Warsaw’s smallest museum, The Only The Finest Indian Cuisine At Bombaj Masala! • Bombaj Breakfast • Indian Tapas • Tandoori Specialties • Authentic Indian Curry • Open Kitchen

Centrum Praskie Koneser (ul. Ząbkowska 29) Al. Jana Pawła II 23 ul. Marynarska 21 www.bombajmasala.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Polish Clock Museum (Wileńska 9) houses numerous timekeeping devices from the PRL period, the eldest dating from 1946. Stars include the ‘master clock’ that once controlled all the timepieces at Centralna, clumsy kitchen timers, antiquated wristwatches and a groovy clock shaped like a teapot. Consider it a quirky curiosity that you have to make time for!

TRACE… THE JEWISH PAST Prior to WWII it’s estimated that approximately 20,000 Jews

lived in Praga, and traces of their presence can be viewed at the Museum of Praga where the wall reliefs decorating a former prayer hall have been painstakingly restored. On the streets, several other remnants exist, among them a building once housing a mikveh (Kłopotowskiego 38) and a gloomy looking former Jewish student dorm (Sierakowskiego 7) that later served as HQ for the local branch of the NKVD. For the more eagle-eyed, Brzeska 21 bears a flaking pre-war sign advertising the services of a tailor that the history books record as being Pan Rubinsztajn, while Ząbkowska 12, once occupied entirely by Jews, has a holder in the door jamb used for a mezuzah.

JOIN… THE SINGING Formed four seasons back in response to growing disil-

lusionment with the way the domestic game was being run (and supported), ZŁY – which translates as bad – stand out as Poland’s first fan-founded, democratic football club. Plying their trade in the lower leagues, games are played in Praga’s Don Pedro Arena and supported by a colorful and eccentric band of fans that value diversity and tolerance. Despite their short history, they’ve already earned international recognition having been recently named by UEFA as Europe’s “best grassroots club”.

TASTE... THE PRL State-subsidized canteens known as milk bars (bar

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT TOP LEFT BY ALEX WEBBER

mleczny) enjoyed their peak during Communist PRL era, and although the fall of the Iron Curtain threatened them with complete extinction, some have doggedly clung on – not least in Praga. Hallmarked by their stale, fetid air and cheap plates of stodge, they’re an anthropological experience that take you back decades. On this side of the river, Bar Ząbkowski and Rusałka have earned a legendary reputation among their devoted clientele.

BROWSE… FOR VINTAGE No Warsaw district has a higher headcount of vintage

LOOK… UP! With autumn in full swing, Praski Park presents itself in

one delicious bang of caramel shades. In keeping with the melancholy mood of the season, find extras such as a forlorn bandshell and a 13-meter stainless steel sculpture of a giraffe – a leftover reminder of early 80s Poland, it was designed by Władysław Frycz as a gift from the zoo to the children of Warsaw. Compatible with nature, the giraffe’s spots were purposefully switched out for gaps in which passing birds could nest and rest.

stores than Praga – at least so it seems. Root among vinyl records at Plyty Gramofonowe (Ząbkowska 11), peer through antique maps, medals and manuscripts at 7.Środkowa (Środkowa 7), or else head to the numerous second-hand design stores that have deluged the area. Tied as the Insider’s favorites: Sklep Lata 60-te (11 Listopada 54) and Look Inside (Wileńska 21). It’s impossible to leave without some treasure under arm. warsawinsider.pl

PROWLING PRAGA

HEAD… TO THE ZOO Whatever your attitude to keeping animals in confinement, there’s one big reason to visit the zoo (zoo.waw.pl) and that’s to traipse through the modernist villa once inhabited by director Jan Żabiński. Restored to its wartime look, it’s in the cellars here that the Żabiński family sheltered 300 Jews from persecution. Book your tour via zoo’s website

BE… SQUARE Often billed as being Praga’s answer to Pl.

Konstytucji, Plac Hallera is arguably the best example of the socialist realist style on the right side of Warsaw. Constructed between 1950 and 1966 to provide housing for workers employed by the local FSO car plant, it became something of a giant social experiment with many of the development’s 25,000 residents shipped in from the sticks for their first taste of city life. The strategy was catastrophic. Crime and vandalism flourished, as did bootleg alcohol production, and for decades Hallera (then called Pl. Leńskiego) became largely known as a lawless den of thieves. Modern times have been kinder and today its overbearing Orwellian aesthetics act as a glimpse to another time.

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: NAC, WIKICOMMONS, KEVIN DEMARIA (2), OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF

KEEP… YOUR EYES PEELED

Floods have affected Warsaw for centuries, and evidence of this is supplied by the classically-styled water chamber that sits on Kłopotowskiego 1/3. Designed by Antonio Corazzi (author of Warsaw’s Teatr Wielki), a discreet plaque on the side of this water pumping station shows the water level reached during the great floods of 1813, 1839 and 1844. Having ticked that off, enjoy the same view Poland’s last king saw of Warsaw by traipsing down to the riverfront. It’s here that Stanisław Poniatowski is said to have stood in 1795 before being escorted off into exile by Russian troops.

Arts, Heart & Passion

A beacon of creativity, few places embody the spirit of Praga like Centrum Zarządzania Światem…

enerously endowed with social-cultural spaces, Warsaw scores well when it comes to letting its creative juices flow inside cool, multi-use environments that fog the line between café, bar, event venue and hangout. But while the majority find themselves nestled on ‘the other side’, Praga too is in on the act. Acting as a mouthpiece for the area’s flourishing arts scene is Centrum Zarządzania Światem, a legendary locale now enshrined in lore. Looking at it, you understand the hype. Fabulous. Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), it’s best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container, the kind you’d have found obstructing the pavements during the construction of the metro. Feeding the vibe is an intelligent floorplan that divides CZŚ into intimate zones, each with their own little character simmering to the surface: among these, an informal restaurant that morphs into a bar ideal for meeting friends; a retro furnished nook decorated with books in abundance; and a basement that’s industrial in spirit and just ripe for events. Of these there are plenty: flamenco nights (“emotional!” says the manager), stand-up, improv theater and on-the-spot meetings with visiting authors. Aiding and abetting the art openings, concerts, meet-ups and workshops are specialist coffee and regional beers as well as a smart line in cocktails inspired by Praga – where else can you order a Picnic At Skaryszewski and receive in return Havana Rum with passionfruit foam (delicious, if you’re asking). And this, in all actuality, is their biggest strength – the ability to change capes with frequency yet still appear both heroic and coherent. Embodying Praga’s DNA, yet at the same time striking a global pose, it’s in Centrum Zarządzania Światem that the area comes alive in the sharpest of color. Centrum Zarządzania Światem ul. Okrzei 26, centrumswiata.com

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PROWLING PRAGA

BEAT… THE BUZZER Designed by the same dude responsible for Hala Mirowska and Hala Gwardii,

the building at Kłopotowskiego 38 has long been known as home to what many hail to be Poland’s most beautiful staircase. Starring in countless films (among them, The Man With The Magic Box, a Polish Academy Award winner about a janitor that travels in time), you’ll need to use your guile to get past the gate and see it for yourself. Once decorated in peeling green paint – an effect that brought to mind a weird David Lynch flick – the spiraling stairwell has now been restored to its original state and looks all the more stunning when shafts of autumn sunlight slant through the windows.

WALK… THE DOG So named because of its snaking length, as opposed

to the local fondness for sausage-shaped dogs, the Jamnik (Dachshund) counts as Poland’s third longest residential building – completed in 1973, and 508 meters in length, this gruesome apartment block achieved a brief moment of fame when it featured in the Travis video Love Will Come Through. Home to 1,200 people, its initial unveiling was greeted with rapture in the press, though since it has become better-known as one of the capital’s cult eyesores – ironic given that it was first built to shield people arriving at Wschódnia from the knackered buildings behind. Of its other nicknames, find locals also referring to it as the plank, the ant and the tapeworm. Jamnik, mind you, remains the favorite, a point affirmed by the presence of a sausage dog mural that was added to the side in 2017.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

OFF... THE WALL Over the last decade or so Praga has become an incubator for grass roots

artistic expression, with the most visible evidence of this provided by the large-format murals that have been splashed onto many of its disintegrating tenements. Of these murals, a number contain direct references to the area’s history and heritage like, for example, a project titled Shrine (pictured left). Painted as part of the 2018 edition of the Street Art Doping festival, the work was created by Low Bros, a German duo comprised of brothers Christoph and Florin Schmidt. Using their trademark retro-futuristic style and fleshy pink colors, the pair sought to celebrate Praga’s iconic shrines whilst also calling into question the contradictions of maintaining identity in the digital age. “The top layer in our work,” they say, “shows an abstract image of a shrine surrounded by flowers and the mosaic of pixels is meant to invite viewers to rearrange them and find new ways to move forward.” See for yourself on Mała 8.

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PROWLING PRAGA

Guiding Light

Offering one-of-a-kind trips conducted in vintage Nysa vans, Adventure Warsaw have become champions of experience-led tours with a twist. Founder Rafał Patla speaks about the area closest to his heart: Praga…

Warsaw Insider: What is the magic of Praga? There’s so many things to mention, but definitely one factor is linked to the point that it survived the war with only 10% destruction. Every pre-war wall, every pre-war brick, should be treated as a precious commodity in Warsaw, so the fact that so much original architecture has survived in Praga makes it that little bit more special. In tourism terms, it doesn’t have the same value as other parts of the city when it comes to standard ‘attractions’, but it does offer a unique atmosphere that you can’t experience anywhere else – and I don’t just mean in Warsaw, but also wider, modern Europe. You could say that parts of Berlin once had a similar vibe but that was over twenty years ago. Fans of Praga often mention its ‘atmo-

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

sphere’. How would you define it? It’s completely different to what you’ll find in the city center or the Old Town. In Praga, not only is the tempo noticeably slower, it feels entirely more local and easygoing. I’ve always said, if you want to meet locals, head to Praga. What are your favorite corners of Praga? Park Skaryszewski is beautiful and even more so for acting as a bridge between two worlds: there you’ll find fancy people from Saska Kępa crossing paths with locals from the more working class area of Grochów. And isn’t it great to walk its paths and smell the choclate being produced at the Wedel factory across the lake – again, it’s just another little thing that makes the area feel like it’s one-of-a-kind.

Is there a story you love regaling about Praga? People around these parts call it ‘the Holy Day of Praga’ and it all stems back to the time German troops entered the city in 1915. The Russian garrison was determined not to leave any vodka for them in the vodka factory so instead poured all the reserves into the streets outside. It’s said that the party lasted for days! What do you want people to experience on your tours? Principally, we’re determined to give them a flavor of the atmosphere. Of course we’ll show them places they might not have found and tell them facts that will help them understand the area, but we also want them to feel the fabric of the town. That’s why beyond the expected spiel we’ll take them into a milk bar to try the local

food or into the market to chat with the traders. Further, we always try and build a relationship with our clients – we want them to feel like they’re being shown the city by a friend, not just an ordinary guide. What’s the reaction you tend to get from first-time visitors? Shock. Surprise. People don’t expect a district quite like this. And it helps that there’s so many wonderful little things to show them. I’m not just talking about sights, but experienceled things such as the artisanal shops, neighborhood cafes like U Krawca, or old curiosity stores like Szuflada – how they survive I’ve no idea, but I’m so glad that they do. If someone had just but a few hours, what would be your must-visit streets?

The great thing about Praga is the distinct character and story that every street has. It goes without saying that Ząbkowska is essential but I’d also recommend an exploration of the area around ul. Kępna and Jagiellońska as well as soaking in the special atmosphere around Inżynierska. Praga has a notoriously tough reputation and despite all the advances it’s taking a lot of time for people to change their views – is it dangerous! Firstly, Warsaw as a whole is a very safe city. But on the off-chance you did ever have trouble, that’s far more likely to occur in the center. I’ll say it once and for all, Praga is safe!

Adventure Warsaw adventurewarsaw.pl warsawinsider.pl

PROWLING PRAGA

Hangin’ Out In The Hood? PA L LO N E

LE CEDRE

Increasingly diverse in its choice, the Insider picks through Praga’s expanding choice of essential daytime hangouts…

Bistro Pod Sowami Okrzei 26 Having been rocked earlier this year by the departure of their original chef, Damian Wajda, Pod Sowami have rolled with the punches to emerge even stronger. Find creative, modern Polish cuisine served in a gorgeous interior that’s both elegant and contemporary.

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu You could spend a year eating at the Koneser development and still never get bored. That says much for the quality of the dozen or so restaurants that have made this their home. Highlights? Polish classics at WuWu, the freshly opened Koneser Grill, the slow pizza of Syreni Śpiew, the fiery dishes of Bombaj Masala and, king of them all, Zoni – a visually stunning emporium with an inventive international menu. Centrum Zarządzania Światem Okrzei 26 Fusing culture and arts with food and drink, CZŚ have become one of Praga’s major social hubs with a busy program of events complimented by a quirk décor and Bohemian spirited crowd. Operating equally well as a café, bar and restaurant, the globally diverse menu offers both breakfast options and vegan choices aplenty. Hałas Jagiellońska 30 At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Kuchnia Czwerwony Rower Targowa 82 Identified by the red bike hanging outside, this canteen-style affair is an antidote to the rampant monetization of Praga. Aiming to get those with social problems back on track, this social project hands the initiative back to those down on their luck by providing employment in their kitchen. Simple but effective in its style, it’s one of the cheapest feeds around.

P Y Z Y F L A K I G O R ĄC E

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Lokalna Bistronomia Nieporęcka 6 The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery.

Le Cedre Solidarności 61 An oldie but a goldie! Going strong since the mid-90s, this Lebanese restaurant continues to act as the role model that all Warsaw’s other Middle Eastern eateries aspire to follow. The exoticism of the interior is contrasted by the proximity of one of Praga’s defining the sights – the bear enclosure opposite.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT LE CEDRE (COURTESY OF)

Melon Inżynierska 1 Serving a primary function as a vintage design store, head to Melon to take a time out amid piles of bric-a-brac, keepsakes, trinkets and more. A decent spot to combine twin pleasures of browsing and coffee. Pallone Brzeska 29/31 Adhering to a 140-year-old Italian recipe, the ice cream that’s scooped at Pallone ranks as among the best in Poland. Sourcing their milk and cream from regional dairies, their lemons from Sicily and their chocolate from Belgium, expect no short cuts taken. Who cares that it’s November!

RANO

Praska Brzeska 23 Presented as a ‘ruin bar’, the interior has to be seen to be believed: crazy local art, twinkling fairy lights, cuddly toys, bits of corrugated iron and a jungle of plants combine to create an extraordinary atmosphere that’s topped out nicely by fab vegan food, beers from the Brooklyn Brewery and an open-minded staff that love to have a chat. Daytime is recommended, but so too are the weekend parties.

SKAMIEJKA

Pyzy Flaki Gorące Brzeska 29/31 Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budgetminded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul. Rano Stalowa 47 The rise of Stalowa street is to be taken

seriously, and the existence of Rano is one rather good reason. Looking – and smelling – like you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do, the standard is such that a number of the city’s top restaurants have begun ordering from here. You will as well.

M E LO N

PRASKA

Skamiejka ul. Ząbkowska 37 As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. warsawinsider.pl

PROWLING PRAGA

The Insider hits the bars of Praga to enjoy both ends of the spectrum…

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

FROM HIGH LIFE…

In the past, if you had used the word knife edge in the same sentence as Praga it would have been in reference to a mugging or a robbery. Nowadays, though, it’s the knife edge cool that everyone talks about. Don’t believe us? Then step inside Syreni Śpiew (Pl. Konesera 4) on any given night. Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead in your tracks: “OMFG,” you want to stammer, “are you a model?” As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. But in the Koneser compound, the possibilities do not end at Syreni Śpiew’s door. At Zoni, find yourself sat between a line of cast iron kilns on one side, and on the other, an ever-stretching bar backing

onto a wall of spirits illuminated to emanate an almost sacral glow. Inspired by the core regions of Poland, here is a drinks menu that sings with ingenuity, which is exactly what can be said of WuWu next door. Feeling pure and proportioned, classy but understated, it makes sense to find this neon-lit, concrete space busy with start-up entrepreneurs, off-duty business bods and glossed-up night owls sipping from vodka-based creations.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Make Mine A Large One!

… TO THE OTHER LIFE

Away from the island of prosperity that is Koneser, the streets of Praga glimmer to twinkling shop signs promising 24-hour alcohol – demand is strong. But there are plenty of other opportunities to drink with the locals beyond hunching over cans in a blackened backyard. The alternative scene thrives here, with ul. 11 Listopada 22 something of an informal center for the city’s leftfield music deveotees. Sharing this same address, Skład Butelek, Hydrozagadka and Chmury are a brilliant foray into adventurous

sound, and their grungy, neo Berlin style is somewhat mimicked by Offside on Brzeska 16. Sat opposite a mural of a giant goose, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie, a feeling that repeats itself in Praska across the road. Sucking on Brooklyn beer are a crowd of maverick artists that have anointed this ‘ruin bar’ as their sanctuary of choice. For many, mind you, Praga’s nightlife revolves strictly around two bastions on Ząbkowska. Founded in 2001, Łysy Pingwin (Ząbkowska 11) was a pioneer of local nightlife and maintains a rugged aesthetic that feels pleasingly Bohemian. Then, W Oparach Absurdu (Ząbkowska 6), a quite marvelous excursion into vodka-fueled madness. Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, good luck bulldozing through a crowd gathered to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Delve deeper still to discover a cramped smoking room that will linger long in both your memory and hair.

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

First Bite

A MYTH IN THE MAKING

Fears that Warsaw's Greek scene has been stagnating have been allayed by the opening of Mr. Greek, a taverna-experience of heart and passion...

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EAT! News

Mr. Greek Souvlaki ul. Londyńska 16

FOODIE NEWS

REACHING FOR THE STARS

Six years after his eponymous restaurant became the first Polish eatery to be awarded a Michelin star, Wojciech Amaro has again made history after becoming the only Pole to ever be included on the Top 100 list organized by the Best Chef Awards. Famed as the founding father of modern Polish cuisine, his philosophy has consistently sought to marry nature with science with his weekly-changing menu often focused on lesser-known ingredients. Having relocated his restaurant to new premises at the beginning of the year, Amaro has continued to evolve his concept through the ongoing development of his farm. Placed 90th in the rankings, the chef was officially inducted in the Top 100 at a ceremony held in Barcelona.

BACK IN ACTION

Lionized as one of the city’s best cooks, Agata Wojda has been named as the new chef at Fest Port Czerniakowski. Set to coincide with the completion of a remodeling of the interior, Wojda’s (and Fest’s) return to action has been set for the start of November. As of press time, what awaits the public remains top secret – watch this space!

EASTERN PROMISE

Romanian food hasn’t made the biggest impression on Warsaw, but that stands to change a little with the opening of Rumuńskie Smaki (Puławska 98), a delicatessen with a choice of over 600 products. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! The first store of its kind in Poland, bestsellers already include spicy Mici sausages.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; KEVIN DEMARIA (2), COURTESY OF ATELIER AMARO, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA (3)

ith Warsaw’s ethnic options branching into increasingly diverse directions, there have been times when more familiar cuisines have often felt neglected. Take Greek, for instance, a sector that appears to have floundered and flatlined since its heyday many moons ago. The balance, however, stands to be redressed, and that’s down to a neighborhood secret on the fringes of Saska. Occupying a gorgeous townhouse on a leafy back street, Mr. Greek Souvlaki looks deliciously enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors. The front terrace is a gem, but so too are the interiors – smart but casual and bubbling with warmth, it’s a place in which you feel immediately at home. The menu is a simple work and while there’s no frills and fancy with any of the food, it’s also really quite brilliant: pillowy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of souvlaki; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments. There is heart here, something that shines through in the tastes and flavors that land with each plate. Even the homecooked potato chips are a lesson in how to do things right. Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. Just by being here, life feels good.

EAT! review

BykBar ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/bykbar

GOOD TO MEAT YOU

Meat gets the royal treatment at BykBar

The Place

Tucked just off Rozbrat, BykBar presents itself in a style that typifies the ‘Warsaw casual’ look: behind a glass frontage find subway tiles in abundance, a black and white color code and the now requisite neon announcing their name. Square in shape, and lit by industrial lamps that dangle overhead, it’s a place that feels busy and informal and marketed to all.

The Food

If the name and logo weren’t enough, then the menu confirms it: meat rules. A welcome antidote to the city’s plant-based direction, you bowl up to Byk in the expectation of a carnivorous feed of Flintstone proportions. And so it proves. While the overall design has the relaxed informality of a standard burger bar, these impressions are immediately cast asunder by the arrival of the starters: glistening marrow in thwunks of roasted bone; soft, rich black pudding heaped on a squidgy brioche; and a classic tartar whose various components mix effortlessly to form one gooey pleasure. With the opening act concluded, out come the big guns: first, hangar steak, a lean, tender cut crusted with the right amount of char; then, beef cheeks, served with demi-glace and a creamy potato gratin; and finally, the Byk Burger itself, a signature of the restaurant and a bite to remember. Best-selling as this burger is, it’s generously clear that there’s more to Byk than burgers alone. Treating meat with the a reverence usually reserved for deities, Byk’s kitchen crew are masters of the flame and so much more. This doesn’t make them unique to Warsaw by any means, but it certainly make them special. Likewise, so do the prices: with starters averaging at zł. 20 and mains no more than zł. 40 zł, it’s unlikely you’ll find a better deal around.

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EAT! review

Is there such a thing as beautiful airport dining? There is now…

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

First Impressions

Seen as a shining glass block the color of midnight, the Renaissance Hotel has reinvented the airport stay through its experience-led philosophy and designforward style. Expecting a cookie cutter feel? Then think again. Decked out to tune into Warsaw’s tradition of modernism and graphic design, the lobby alone is a richly sensual vision that feels delicious on the eye. Likewise, the restaurant, Challenge '32. Split in two sections, the principal dining room is a well-spaced area of spot lighting and warming colors; more intimate, a second room awaits

with a monochromatic palette softened by brushed gold features and stretching mirrors. Were it not for the travel bags and cases, you’d imagine yourself being downtown in a fine dining haunt. Frankly, it all feels so good.

Captain’s Cabin

Given the location right across from the departures terminal, the narrative has been written around the golden age of flight, with the restaurant’s name taken from an inter-war competition won by Polish aviators Franciszek Żwirko and Stanisław Wigura. To fit the story, find staff

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FLIGHTS OF FANCY

Challenge '32 ul. Żwirki I Wigury 1 (Renaissance Hotel), renaissancewarszawa.pl

resplendent in vintage flight clobber and a Polish-rooted menu with a noticeable international spin. As for your captain, that’s Andrzej Bryk, and you can consider his cabin the open kitchen positioned at the head of the primary dining room.

On The Menu

As a meal, it takes-off from pretty much the moment you’re seated. Wild mushroom soup with flakes of black truffle and gooey Bursztyn cheese is thick, creamy and of an intensity that’s deep and dreamy; tartar, served in a warm brioche with a strip of dried

beef, proves an inventive take on a domestic classic; and there is a pleasing beetroot cake with Chevre cheese, orange fillets and raspberry dressing. As a hat tip to more global visitors, Bonito tuna tartar is an irresistible bite with chia, mango essence and a teat pipette of teriyaki sauce. Mains soar, as well. Fresh Croatian seabass – filleted but then reconstructed to look like it leapt from the water to your plate – is the star of the day, narrowly beating tender, roasted veal chops that arrive with fried kale, a celery puree and a sauce of tonic and chocolate.

Happy landings are guaranteed with our trio of desserts numbering a szarlotka apple cake with caramel ice cream, a meringue with coffee cream served on bubbling ice, and a passion fruit mousse of subtle fruity kick.

Final Thoughts

Executed to flawless standard, dinner inside Challenge '32 is so much more than a stop-gap before flights. True, the customer base is heavily based on travelers, but such is the quality it’s a place that makes any pre-flight ritual increasingly attractive. warsawinsider.pl

EAT! REVIEW

MODERNIZING POLAND Lobo rethinks old classics in new ways…

In Your Glass

One feature you won’t miss in the back is a wall illustration detailing the cider making process. And yes, it’s there for a reason – featuring a range of bottles from the Chyliczki brand, there aren’t many restaurants that offer a better portfolio of artesian ciders. As a digestif, the sweet ‘ice cider’ merits a round of applause.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

On The Plate

Good things happen at Lobo, good things indeed. For the Insider, that meant beginning with pumpkin pancakes served with salmon gravlax (zł. 34) before moving on to a beef loin positioned on a cushion of pureed parsley (zł. 79). Both faultless if lacking any overt fireworks. To finish, dessert, and a pumpkin cheesecake (zł. 21) that felt right for the moment. This won’t be remembered as the Insider’s best meal of the year (or the month, for that matter), but there’s much to like here, and even things to love. The approach to Polish cuisine is intelligent, the thought process clear, and the execution unblemished. Competition is stiffening when it comes to the field of modern Polish, but here’s a restaurant that sits comfortably with the better.

Lobo Bistro ul. Noakowskiego 16

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ccessed via a striking glass-ceilinged courtyard, Lobo presents itself in two parts: the first, a dark, fern-colored dining room with a show-stealing tree installation; and the second, a more spacious area high on natural light and soft, blond wood. It’s an environment in which you’d be equally happy to entertain colleagues from work as much as a demanding date off Tinder. But perhaps nicest of all is the back garden, a cobbled area with ivy-clad walls and strategically placed plants – peering at it through the window, you to fast track through Christmas and skip straight to summer.

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DINE ON THE WILD SIDE

Daring tastes and new sensations at Drukarniaâ&#x20AC;¦

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

rapped inside a 1950s facade, the former printing house containing Drukarnia opens up to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend this restaurant a sense of light, space and depth. Curious, engaging and striking in its look, this interior has been complimented by a menu that fits perfectly with the aesthetics: unusual and stimulating, it is food to make you think, and that much is clear from the outset with starters that involve an array of salty donuts. Just when you thought you had seen it all in the wacky world of Warsaw, along come pretty little donuts topped with bacon and chocolate icing or smoked salmon, chives and Sriracha sauce. Playful and delicious, they’re surpassed only by a plump, princely donut smothered with gorgonzola and mango salsa. This, though, is not some random outbreak of creativity, rather a prelude to a menu that excels in pushing boundaries. Salmon marinated in citrus is next, with surprising peaks of flavor supplied by a wasabi mayon

naise that decorates the plate. Subtly complex, it’s a primer for a meal that keeps reaching new heights. Startling in its color, a cauliflower risotto with marinated beetroot, chives and peas follows and is a fine testament to the chef’s palate, yet even this pales when compared to the steak. Placed on a celery puree, and accompanied by marinated radish, it’s a dish of huge, banging flavors and pure, unhinged joy. Dessert? Well after mains like that, you’d be a fool not to. Chocolate fondant might feel passé but here you understand why its become such a mainstay round the kitchens of the world. Piping hot, intensely rich, and presented with a scoop of salty caramel ice cream, it’s a beautiful journey into chocolatey bliss. But yes, there are alternatives: opening with a satisfying crack, the brulee reveals a glorious pistachio center that matches well with the resin ice cream perched on top. Announcing themselves as specialists in ‘wild dining’, much happens to back up this claim. However, the true triumph of Drukarnia doesn’t lie in providing food that thrills and excites, but in providing food that tastes just so damn well good. Drukarnia ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl warsawinsider.pl

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THE NOSTALGIC FOOD OF AUTUMN

At WuWu, we welcome guests to enjoy a culinary trip through their memories of childhood.

o you remember what the summer smelled like on your first seaside holiday? Or what ingredient your grandma used that made her apple pie so special? Themed on childhood memories, WuWu’s autumn menu looks to play with those questions. Based on modernized versions of old recipes, our new menu is rich in seasonal produce that brings to mind the forest: mushrooms, venison, wild boar cheeks and pheasant broth. Served with chanterelles and boletus mushrooms, we’re proud of our sirloin steak which comes additionally with mustard puree, kale chips, Mirabelle jam and a demi-glace. Other noteworthy inclusions on our menu include flatbreads served with mushrooms, kale and goat cheese, as well Russian dumplings filled with truffles and shallots. As for dessert, plums in roasted butter, Bobolice cream and linseed represent the very quintessence of childhood. To create this menu we’ve taken a sentimental journey through old cookbooks and culinary memories to reach our goal of striking an emotional cord. Simultaneously, we’ve searched out unusual products whose potential has not yet been fully recognized, which is why our menu include calve’s brain, duck tongues and wild fish. Using only the best sources, our beef hails from Pniewy, our dairy products from Bobolice and our cheese from small producers across the nation. In addition, our trout is sourced from Zielenica and our honey from local Warsaw producers. But WuWu is not just aimed at gourmands, but also lovers of top quality drinks – in particular, vodka, of which we have almost a hundred labels.

WuWu Bistro Pl. Konesera 1 Reservations: +48 22 355 30 02

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 36 balkan 36 chinese 36 comfort & street food 36 desserts 38 fine dining 40 food halls & happenings 46 french 42 georgian 43 greek & turkish 43 hungarian 43 indian 43 international 44 italian 50 japanese 52 jewish 54 korean 54 latin & spanish 55 mexican 55 middle eastern 55 polish 57 scandinavian 61 seafood 62 specialty food shops 62 steak houses 62 thai 64 ukrainian 64 vegan 63

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

consistency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Gryzbowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet

head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger

FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS SEN is a place of many senses. An environment where food, drinks, music blend together as one. RESERVATIONS: t el. +48 883 025 025 reser vations@senwarsa w.pl W io ślarska 6 | 00- 411 War s a w

senwarsa w.pl |

/SEN warsa w |

/SEN_warsa w

n food, a c i r e m tr ue A s and vibes drink Brooklyn House is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous screens. You think burgers and steaks – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

Jana Pawła II 18 00-116 Warsaw Reservation: + 48 22 114 34 34

find us:

/Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar /BrooklynRestaurantandBar /@brooklyn_burgersnsteaks

EAT! Listings have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Mari Cruz Mission Burrito This small, walk-in eatery strikes the right note with a selection that keeps it straight, simple and unfailingly tasty. Californianstyle burritos are the order of the day and come complimented by some effective

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

homemade sauces squeezed from a bottle. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1 Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with fear. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos are ably supported by a choice of alternative sauces aimed at people who don’t view dining as an extreme sport. (H3) ul. Francuska 8 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for

burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 Frank Warszawa Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul.

Polna 18/20 Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about,

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul. Mokotowska 52

Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl

Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojitoflavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A

Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Muus Warsaw’s taste for luxury desserts has not waned, but Muus steps into new territory by offering something that feels modern yet also strangely homely. Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, cheesecake with yuzu jelly – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading. At Muus, taste is not sacrificed for show. What you get dances with the best. (E3) ul. Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw

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fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh,

contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Epoka Those claiming that the fine dining scene has stalled haven’t visited Epoka. Set inside the glorious interiors of the Europejski, the edgy look riffs on contemporary, classic and retro influences to dramatic effect and the menu matches up to the top dollar style. This is trailblazing cuisine with the potential to stand alongside Warsaw’s smattering of world class venues. Full review coming in December. (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka.restaurant Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center

NEW IN NOVEMBER Fresh from his spell abroad, we’re happy to announce the return of Head Chef Wojciech Deres – as one of the leading pioneers of the modern Polish food movement, he is delighted to bring you dishes not just in tune with November, but also the groundbreaking domestic wines we’ve sourced from around the country…

Duck terrine with pear puree, sunflower and pickled onions Wine: Gostchorze GostArt 2018 (GostArt owes its excellent taste to mature grape growers and the unique microclimate of the Gostchorze vineyard located on the verdant hills just above the Odra river).

Lamb loin with potato cake, pepper, cranberry, pumpkin and black salsify Wine: Trzebnickie Hills Vineyard Regent 2016 (ripened in a French oak barrel, the intense aroma and high tannin content of this wine goes spectacularly well with meaty dishes). Creamy cheesecake Wine: Solaris Solero Winery (fruity with notes of chamomile, pineapple, peach pulp and papaya, this wine is the ideal match for Wojciech’s desserts).

Zielony Niedźwiedź ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

EAT! Listings bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl

Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white

EAT! Listings gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12 L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/ white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. Reopened after a sabbatical, Leon’s return is cause for celebration. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead. The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul. Wilcza 26 Leo’s Marani An ambitious newbie launched in July,

Leo’s Marani mixes Georgian and Armenian flavors to present a menu that feels slightly more novel than the others: for example, refer to lamb chops marinated in coffee, cognac and pomegranate juice. Other success stories involve the Armenian-caught trout and huge shashlik sets for two. Not all reviews have been glowing, but there’s much to suggest that any inconsistencies stand to be ironed out over time. Early days yet, but most who visit end up promising to return. ul. Marszałkowska 85 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. ul. Mokotowska 17 Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value

to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini

hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus

points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic

style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

EAT! Listings – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served

with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is

an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s

The Amber Room specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts. Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants. Amber Room invites you to taste the latest autumn dishes prepared by chef Kamil Rzechowicz. Dishes include scallop with cauliflower and broccoli purée; cream of charred celery soup; saddle of venison with Jerusalem artichoke or a dark chocolate sphere for a dessert. Carefully selected wines are guaranteed to enhance your culinary experience. Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski A timber cabin in a wooded but central part of Warsaw provides the backdrop for one of the Insider’s favorite feeds. Closed for a refurb in October, what November brings is anyone’s guess. What we know is that one of the city’s top chefs, Agata Wojda, has been recruited to lead the kitchen: as such, we’re expecting more than just the rustic grill food that they’ve become famed for serving. Full report next issue! (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8

EAT! Listings First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl Flaming & Co Seemingly inspired by a Long Island shoot for Hilfiger, Flaming has long been hailed as one of Warsaw’s summer heroes thanks to a picket-fenced garden with plentiful greenery and well-spaced tables. It works in other seasons as well though, with a cool and confidently affluent interior that sits well against a pan-European menu that offers outstanding continental breakfast options. (E6) ul. Chopina 5

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jackof-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl

Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

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EAT! Listings Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. Full report soon. (E3)

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9

Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks

to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248 Projekt 44 Warsaw’s credentials as a global city look all the stronger for places like Projekt 44, a chic-casual spot rooted at the bottom of Daniel Liebeskind’s landmark Złota 44 tower. Heavy on raw materials and moodily-adjusted lighting, the background goes well with a rounded menu offering a 360 view of international cuisine: vegan poke bowls; rib-eye steaks; and cocktails divided by the way they’re served with ice (that is, with a block of ice, ice cubes, crushed ice or nitro). People are excited, and deservedly so. Full report soon. ul. Złota 44 Pizza Boyz Colors of lipstick pink and electric blue have you thinking you’ve walked into

EAT! Listings a packet of Skittles – if you don’t have a headache then you will in a second. A satirical comment on the modern world or a fascinating anthropological study of millennial culture? Whatever it is, Pizza Boyz is as in-yer-face as the name may suggest: order extreme pizzas with names like Coke Dope Cheezy Eazy (jalapeno plus Coca Cola BBQ sauce) or the Carolina Reaper, a pizza that boldly claims to the be the hottest on earth. The food isn’t great, but as daft as the concept is, people here have fun. Much against our will, we did as well. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’,

‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda

Book your Christmas Party now! Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo, no outdoor patio) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself. So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists:

the kind of dish you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the dailychanging tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded

Polish cuisine since 1986 in the heart of Warsaw Old Town Świętoszek Tartuffe Jezuicka 6/8, Warsaw phone: +48 730 013 312 www.swietoszek.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but

EAT! Listings there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski to the fore, with the highlyrated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85

Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute

Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise? Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to

expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing

flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54 Fat Buddha Huge in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

ul. Klimczaka 1, Royal Wilanów 791 027 070 pinsa_warszawa pinsaWarszawa www.pinsa.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

EAT! Listings Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate War-

saw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms. Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/ YattaBowl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

jewish Mazal Tov Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub. (D1) ul. Podwale 29,

mazaltov.pl

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/ KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony. Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people

EAT! Listings and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27

Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new

Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and

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EAT! Listings levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. Full report soon. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul. Gagarina 33

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly

Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slow-cooked beef all but melts in the mouth. One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating

EAT! Listings Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/TahinaWilcza

polish Bazar Kocha Mimicking the look of a contemporary farmers’ market, awnings cover the counter at Bazar Kocha and pickled produce lines the shelves – what you see on them is available to buy. Loyal to the concept of terroir, the menu makes a strong case for contemporary Polish cuisine with a seasonally-adjusted choice that involves mutton dumplings; smoked eggplant risotto; or beef cheeks with a silky lovage mousse. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33 Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8 Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued

the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality,

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit

– involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl

Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1 Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl Stolica An enjoyably nostalgic ride through bygone times, the atmosphere of the inter-bellum is reflected by a menu that celebrates the tastes of classic Poland with no quarter given. Formal service and white tablecloth arrangements lend a typically Old Town ambiance. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3,

restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

EAT! Listings The Farm The clue’s in the name. Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this Mokotowska eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Subject to frequent change, menu items include Porcini terrine, apple-fed pork with smoked plum, or Mazurian trout with smoked caviar. You want to order it all. Supporting the strength of the cooking is an interior that feels comfortable, classic and high on natural charm. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric

menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu

Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends

Focaccia Ristorante Experience the magical time with us tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

specialty food shops Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and expats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats,

Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. For full review, see p. TK. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8 Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious

EAT! Listings

VEGAN Officially ranked the 7th most vegan-friendly city in the world, Warsaw’s plant-based scene continues to expand at a rate that feels close to exponential – during the last roll-call, there were 161 restaurants to pick from! Sensibly, we’ve whittled that choice to a more digestible figure… Eden Set inside a masterpiece of modernist architectural design this townhouse feels intriguing and discreet, its crowning glory provided by an all-year greenhouse cluttered with herbs and pot plants. Inside, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/momencik Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Uki Green Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ukigreenramen Vegan Ramen Shop Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa, a fact that’s led to the opening of a new location in Mokotów. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant

Vege Małpa A raw, hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: it’s the final word in junky pleasure. ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7, fb.com/vegemalpa

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com

Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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EAT! Listings conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, merliniego.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

First Sips

SEASONAL SIPS PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

You know that winter’s looming the moment the bars first start advertising mulled wines and beer. But in the case of the latter, Warsaw has traditionally had to make do with sub-par versions produced using lowest common denominator ingredients: more about general merriment than taste, for the most part you’ll be battling it out with mainstream lager that’s sweet, sticky and scalding hot. Not anymore. Devotees of this brew now have an ace alternative thanks to the lads at Jabeerwocky. Awarded the same seriousness as their tap beers, it’s a perfect pint made utilizing craft beer, spices and a generous whack of honey. Served at sipping temperature, think of it as winter in a mug. Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

drink! interview

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

SIP SIP HOORAY!

Having established Nowina as one of the city’s favorite wine bars, Paulina and Stefania Cybulska sip down with the Insider to discuss their world of wine…

Warsaw Insider: What’s selling well right now? As a general rule, there’s a strong demand for Primitivo, Pinot Grigio and Prosseco. German Riesling is also doing very well – they’re very active in their promotion and marketing and that’s had noticeable effects on its popularity. Any surprises? It’s not a surprise, but Portuguese wines are enjoying great success now – in their case, they’ve struck a great balance between price and quality, plus it’s proven easy to import. We’re selling a lot right now, but that’s to be expected given the fact that they are producing very good wines for incredibly fair prices. Given the fluctuating state of the market, have any wines dropped off in sales? We’ve noticed that with Chianti. That was tremendously popular just five or six years ago but a lot of people are now looking elsewhere. A lot of new styles are coming to the market internationally, how are they faring in Poland? Poland’s wine market is growing so we do get people asking for organic, biodynamic and vegan wines, but not to the point where you’d say the marketplace is undergoing a revolution. It’s been a gradual, step-by-step process. We’ve also noticed that people are seeking out drier wines and are increasingly happy to pay more – they’re understanding the difference in quality that a more expensive bottle can provide and are becoming more open to try something new. Would you say that the domestic knowledge base has increased? Definitely. Poles are travelling more than ever and, over the course of their holidays, are discovering wines that

they love – in particular, that’s helped create a demand for Spanish and Italian wines. What role do you play in terms of encouraging people to expand their horizons? We’ll try to suggest something a little different and use the styles that they like as a gateway to something else. For instance, maybe something with a little higher acidity, something a little more elegant. Over the last three years we’ve grown our client base and have established ourselves as a bar and that’s created a situation where more and more people are taking on board our suggestions. We now have a healthy core of long-term customers who have realized that they can trust our recommendations; that trust has been earned over time. Would you agree Polish people still gravitate towards sweeter wines? We’d definitely say that people are still in the process of discovering drier wines, which is where Primitivo has stepped in. Despite being a dry wine it’s very fruity and aromatic and has that element of sweetness. It’s a good drink for people looking to orientate themselves in the world of wine and highly recommended for beginners. You don’t need in-depth knowledge to, for instance, find its aroma, so it’s a very understandable wine. In fact, we’d say, if you want to pretend that you know something about wine, then it’s very hard to go wrong with a Primitivo! You speak highly of it! Of course – it’s easy to find and wellpriced: it helps, as well, that there’s such a broad range of styles that cover many tastes and price points. For us, Primitivo is a state-of-mind! Polish wines are getting a lot of press in recent times – where do you stand on them…

There’s a few that we stock and these have reached a good level, but as things stand we believe that as a general rule you can find the same quality for less money from a French wine. What is the wine ‘mission’ at Nowina? We’ve always sought to have wines for all kinds of people: wines that can be considered entry level, wines that are more complex and, of course, wines that are top quality. We’re proud to have exclusivity on many top brands such as, as an example, Louis Jadot. We sell wines for all occasions which is why, if you’re looking for a bottle to take away, we’ll ask for the purpose of the wine: is it a gift? For a party? For this afternoon, and so on. As for yourselves, what are you drinking nowadays… For us, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is as good as fresh bread: just beautiful! It’s a very easy drinking wine. Further, we look on Livio Felluga from Friuli as one of Italy’s best producers of whites. As for red, then Spain’s Priorat region has wines that are complex, rich and deep as well as those that are heavier, barrel-aged and with a higher acidity. And any favorite regions that you tend to look to? We both share the same tastes so when it comes to red we’re big fans of Piedmont and Burgundy whilst for white, then Chablis and regions such as Friuli in Northern Italy. When it comes to wine tourism, do you have a dream destination in mind? We’d love do undertake a one-month tour of Australia and New Zealand – but try finding the time to take off work!

Nowina ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl warsawinsider.pl

drink! Review bars & pubs 2Koła Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5)

Central Bar

ul. Hoża 61

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

25, klubchlodna25.pl

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft

beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd says much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when

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drink! Listings the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous

blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala Playing more than a bit part role in the Wisła’s gentrification is Przystań, a sleek moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with renegade beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd convening under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for autumn, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl.

where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze. Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal

Drink! Listings profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of head-swivelling glamor pusses. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Reading matter is plentiful, and the positive vibes and permanent sense of chill give it the air of a neighborhood classic: it’s perfect for leafy Stary Bielany. Al. Zjednoczenia 46

cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cava Nowy Świat Recently reinvented, the status of this institution hasn’t wavered with its prime location complimented by premium coffee, well-thought cocktails and eco-minded food menu. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail

EPIC PUB CRAWL! An alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter, the pavilion bars are ensconced in local legend. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance. Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget, prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest concentration of bars in the capital. While seen from a birds eye perspective this collection of scuzzy pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like. Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs outside. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. From the traditional favorites, PRL-themed Pewex has long been a pre-Luzztro muster point thanks to its firm commitment to electronic sound. At Komix, walls come sheathed in scenes from Marvel while Precedens go for a harder vibe by matching their rock policy with A4 posters of legendary acts. As for the most infamous? Step inside Klaps, a bar boldly decorated with dildo beer taps and illuminated boobs: with that in mind, is it really a surprise to find drinks called Flogger, Punisher and Gangbang on the menu? Though it’s easy to write the pavilions off as a student zone, doing so misses the mark. Sure, there’s a heavy presence of Erasmus types, but find these bolstered by representatives from all walks of life – crowd-wise, you won’t find a more democratic audience in the whole of the city. And as such, neither will you find a night that’s quite as wild and unpredictable as an evening spent here. The Pavilions Nowy Świat 22/28, pawilonynowyswiat.pl

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drink! Listings and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after an autumn prowl through the parks of Powiśle. (F5) ul. Fabryczna 28/30

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Yestersen Not content with ruling the domestic scene where online vintage furnishings are concerned, Yestersen have gone one better and opened a bricks-and-mortar venture – complete with coffee while you browse! More in line with wading into an aesthetic wave of bliss, on stepping inside visitors are confronted by a sea of beautiful objects: from iconic wall units by Volák to retro tables by Halabali. On the coffee front, find specialty brews supplied by Cophi and no shortage of pretty little cakes and tarts courtesy of Muus. (C6) ul. Lekarska 5, fb.com/yestersen. warsaw

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pickup joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible

Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As

NEED A VENUE FOR A FAMILY GATHERING OR BIRTHDAY PARTY? CAFE PRZYGODA IS THE PLACE!

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

- Loads of fun in the indoor playground! - Family events & birthday parties - Workshops for children (inc. sensory activities and "Gordon's Musical Learning") - Dance and acting classes

the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al.

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

kontakt@cafeprzygoda.pl tel. 602 410 420 ul. Bobrowiecka 10

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does

Drink! Listings the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27

Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

crowd looking for pre-city center drinks. (H4) ul. Francuska 2

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to an attractive back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa – it’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. The rest of the year ain’t bad either, with sophisticated seasonal cocktails attracting a glam

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

specifically customized for the season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

ODWALE BAR AND BOOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche,

drink! Listings rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/ klubpoglos

Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational

Drink! Listings drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland. Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve Ale Wino! all the wines they have by the glass. Enjoy Summers here are magical, with them on a cobbled street that’s been drinkers congregating on a courtyard magnificently restored to its pre-war reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 deck shieldedWarsaw from Insider the sun by a slanted prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41

wine bars

Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Taste the knowledge!

CMY

Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

www.pvm.pl

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LAST CHANCE 36 x Rembrandt

YEAR OF REMBRANDT PHOTOGRAPH S.LESZCZYŃSKI

Extended to run until November 11th, visitors now have a few extra days to catch the 36 x Rembrandt exhibition inside Warsaw’s Royal Castle. Held to honor the 350th anniversary of the death of Rembrandt, the exhibition is centered around two paintings in the Castle’s permanent collection: Girl In A Picture Frame and Scholar At His Writing Table. Accompanying these are drawings, woodcuts, sketches and paintings by the greatest Dutch artist of all time, many of which have rarely been placed on public view, as well as a section devoted to copies of his work by other artists. Royal Castle Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

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FAMILY Royal Garden of Light

Ongoing @ Wilanów Palace, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16 Lit by in excess of 300,000 pulsating diodes, lose yourself in a sea of thematic garden areas whilst tunes by Tchaikovsky and Vivaldi tinkle in the background. It’s beguiling, bewitching and even a little bewildering.

EDITOR’S PICK Sightseeing: Editor’s Pick

Moving to new, more central premises at the start of the year, this fascinating portal into times gone by offers a deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, it is inside this phenomenal museum that an understanding is gained of what life was once like – and when you’re done, immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the times by retreating to their historically inspired café to order coffee made using a 50-year-old machine. With a slice of classic W-Z cake in hand, soak in the views of Socialist Realist MDM square below: ladies and gentlemen, your trip in time is now complete. Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

For further info, see: wilanow-palac.pl

FILM Jewish Film Festival 18-24 Nov @ Polin Museum / Helios Cinema / JCC Warsaw Founded in 2003, the Warsaw Jewish Film Festival was created to reawaken Warsaw’s Jewish past. This year’s festival is dedicated to the world-renowned film producer Artur Brauner. For further info, see: wjff.pl

FILM Sputnik Nad Wisłą

21 Nov -1 Dec @ Kino Luna / Elektronik / Iluzjon Promoting Russian culture in Poland, the 13th Sputnik Film Festival ambitiously aims to ‘overcome differences and debunk stereotypes dividing Poles and Russians’. To meet this end, the festival will see over 60 films screened. For further info, see: sputnikfestiwal.pl

MARKET Och Bazar!

25 Nov @ Babka, ul. Młocińska 5/7 With over 100 exhibitors anticipated to appear, Och Bazar! Allows visitors the chance to explore the

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

burgeoning world of Polish fashion and interior design. Admission is free. For further info, see: ochbazar.pl

COMEDY Steve Hofstetter

28 Nov @ Poziomy, ul. Nowy Świat 28 One of the biggest names on the college circuit, Hofstetter’s varied career has included appearances on the Late Late Show With Craig Ferguson, White Boyz in the Hood, VH1’s Countdown and On the Road in America. Tickets from zł. 30 @ goingapp.pl

EVENT Caledonian Ball

30 Nov @ Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 One of expat Warsaw’s best-loved events will feature a ceremonial four-course banquet, pipe band, Highland dance, an exhibition sword dance, a raffle and charity auction. All proceeds go towards supporting Polish children’s charities. Tickets zł. 550 @ scotsinpoland. com

MARKET Fair Of Beautiful Things

30 Nov-1 Dec @ Centrum Praskie Koneser, Pl. Konesera 2 You could make a case for this being Warsaw’s most popular design fair. On show: eco-cosmetics, retro-vintage products, textiles, trendy local ceramics, original furniture, kids gizmos, elaborate plants, thrilling art and so much more. A great way to beat the Xmas rush! For further info, see: targirzeczyladnych.pl

MONDIAL TA I L O R E D

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The ECCO VITRUS™ limited collection consists of ten models which debuted in eleven stores across Europe on October 7th and which will be available online from December 2019. The ECCO VITRUS™ Mondial is a breakthrough in men’s shoes. An exquisite combination of style and comfort, it makes the seemingly impossible – an ultra-comfortable, stylish European dress shoe – possible. Comprising a traditional, full leather outsole with ECCO’s signature lightweight comfort technology, this newest member of the VITRUS™ family pioneers discreet comfort innovation within a slim, elongated silhouette, fashioned from rich ECCO leather. As found in the wider VITRUS™ collection, remarkable cushioning and impressive flexibility offer ultimate comfort whilst timeless, distinctly traditional detailing adds to the handcrafted aesthetic of this European inspired collection of shoes.

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EXHIBITION REVIEW: GYDNIA-TEL AVIV

Three-thousand miles apart, yet bonded by several underlying similarities, the latest exhibition at the POLIN museum seeks to explore the entwining commonalities between Gdynia and Tel Aviv.

ippling blue seas, pristine white buildings, stretching sands and clear, sunny skies. This is the Gdynia and Tel Aviv that the exhibition celebrates, two cities founded on an idealistic dream in the early decades of the 20th century. Christened in 1919, Gdynia was intended as “Poland’s gate unto the world”, a modern seaport designed that represented the dreams and aspirations of the newly independent Polish state. Tel Aviv, founded a decade earlier, was to be the “first Hebrew city”, and an entrance gate for the thousands of new arrivals eager to play their role in the creation of the future Jewish state. These representative functions, says the exhibition’s curator, combined with beginning of the new century to provide a unique opportunity to realize a series of ambitious design plans. As such, renowned architects

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

– many of Jewish heritage – were invited to participate in the construction of both cities, promoting a modernist style that reflected the era. “Through extensive bright windows of a 20th-century home one can spot the white cities of tomorrow,” commentators enthused. But what was ordinary life like in these so-called ‘white cities’. Opened to widespread acclaim in September, the Gdynia-Tel Aviv exhibition addresses this through its rich assembly of archival photographs, not to mention a number of propaganda posters promoting both as tourist destinations. However, common strands went beyond architecture and ideology. Connecting the cities was the GdyniaAmerica Shipping Line, with the MS Piłsudski the most famous vessel from this fleet. Serving an almost ambassadorial role for Poland, details on the ocean liner were designed by some of the most eminent Polish

artists of the day, with elements such as the tableware on show at the exhibition. Beyond this, the cities attracted and inspired artists from both countries, and the exposition includes many of these original artworks: some from Polish collections, others shipped from Israel especially for the occasion. Of these, works by Nahum Gutman, Reuven Rubin and Ludwig Blum are displayed along with contemporary works by the likes of Maria Kiesner and Maurycy Gomulicki (seen outside). Also bridging the past with the present is photographer Wojciech Wilczyk, whose pictorial essay on the modernist architecture of these two cities looks set to be welcome with blanket applause. Purposefully coinciding with the centenary of Gdynia’s foundation and the 110th anniversary of Tel Aviv, the exhibition is already proving one of the most memorable ever to be held at this award-winning museum.

Gdynia-Tel Aviv Ongoing until 3 February 2020 (tickets zĹ&#x201A;. 15 / 10) POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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FAMOUS FIVE

Offering a well-rounded view of Warsaw’s past and present, the following museums and cultural institutions have established themselves as the city’s (and even the nation’s) essential must-sees.

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

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AND GET

Created in conjunction with the Warsaw Rising Museum, jazz legend Michał Urbaniak’s latest album, From Warsaw With Love, is a personalized tribute to the battle and offers a musical journey dedicated “to those who are gone and those who still are.” Featuring cameos from Marcus Miller, David Gilmore and Lenny White, the album was released at the end of July as part of the 75th anniversary commemorations.

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

POLIN

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

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M I N AT U R E PA R K

O B I E K T A L FA

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t

necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25

scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their

forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

erates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

EXPERIENCES Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon gen-

World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21,

a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such

stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S

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THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible. CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

able. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is established as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa. pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious when they shimmer in the autumn light. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. With 2019 marking the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeach-

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike. In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is always a rewarding experience. Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

LEARNING preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of

Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nurs-

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

warsawinsider.pl

ery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

antiques

amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com

Antykwariat Grochowski For the undisputed heavyweight of printed material, look for Antykwariat Grochowski, a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. ul. Kickiego 12, agrochowski.pl Kolo What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl

Kwadryga Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an

Lapidarium Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Prima Porta Antiquities At the top end of the scale the Germanrun Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Hlonda 8, primaporta-antiquities.com

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7 Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul. Bracka 25 Radio Telewizja Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts. ul.

books

Andersa 29

Atticus You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.

Super Salon Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl. ul.

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl

Chmielna 10, supersalon.org

WARSAW JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL

1 8 - 24 L I S T O PA D A , 2 0 1 9

WARSZAWSKI FESTIWAL FILMÓW O TEMATYCE ŻYDOWSKIEJ

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

F B : WA RS AW J E W I S H F I L M F E S T I VA L W W W . W J F F. P L

FASHION 303 Avenue Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundaries between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul. Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann.

Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’. Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska. Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

Mandel Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

MMC Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9

2, mmcstudio.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – this fashion store

presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3 Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

ul. Mokotowska 28

The Odder Side From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

MENS SHOES ECCO Splash Down In The Men’s HighEnd Shoe Market! At the beginning of October, the premiere of ECCO VITRUS ™ MONDIAL took place in 11 selected stores in Europe. This prelaunch introduced a breakthrough in the world of exclusive formal shoes for men. ECCO VITRUS ™ MONDIAL is a collection of 10 models that combine elegant design with innovative technology for an even higher level of comfort. Aimed at the modern gentleman who values quality and innovation. With its slim silhouette and a sophisticated upper, fashioned from luxuriously rich ECCO leather, the ECCO VITRUS™ MONDIAL is premium in every respect. Accepting no compromise, the new line presents an iconic and traditional style while emphasizing core elements such as comfort, fit and feel. ECCO ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska12 (Galeria Mokotów), ecco.com

warsawinsider.pl

HEALTH & BEAUTY

COSMETICS

spas & salons

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

All Eyes On Eyebar! Protect and nurture your eyebrows and eyelashes with Brow Oil… Daily makeup application and removal can stand to weaken the eyebrows and eyelashes, but for zł. 59 you can now purchase a natural, nourishing elixir that will stop damage in its tracks! Available at branches of Eyebar, out Brow Oil contains natural oils that will stimulate and strengthen the bulbs, thereby causing the eyebrows and eyelashes to grow healthier, thicker and longer. Furthermore, this rich composition of natural plant oils has been enriched with vitamin E, thereby extending the product's durability; thanks to its excellent absorption, it also provides protection against UV radiation. Ideally matched to regenerating and resuscitating thinning eyebrows, this boundary pushing product accelerates skin renewal, darkens the hair and brings extraordinary relief to dry and flaky skin. Additionally, we’ve also created a special application brush which naturally encourages hair growth. Eyebar Various locations, eyebar.pl

SMART AGING

Brought to you by:

Holistic Clinic ul. Racławicka 98, holisticclinic.pl tel. +22 100 62 26 / +48 603 482 484

Skin Tech For Modern Times Warsaw’s Holistic Clinic explores new boundaries with the latest technology… Constant running, stress and lack of time often affect the look of our skin. More and more people who consciously approach the topic of taking care of themselves are choosing effective but non-invasive methods, while avoiding drastic changes in their appearance. Naturalness, authenticity and being yourself are the pillars of the Smart Aging philosophy. This approach is characteristic of Holistic Clinic specialists, while scientific knowledge and the latest equipment allows you to plan treatments in such a way that the patient cares for his skin regularly and gently. Dr Agnieszka Bańka-Wrona will present the possibilities of the only Joule ™ X laser platform in Europe. Since September, treatments performed with this laser have been available at the Holistic Clinic. What distinguishes the Joule ™ X laser platform from the equipment available on the market? First of all, versatility. The tips of the Joule ™ X laser plat-

form allow you to perform treatments at different wavelengths: phototherapy, photorejuvenation, closing dilated blood vessels, fractional therapy, removing excess localized fat, skin firming, as well as aesthetic gynecology. The uniqueness of the technology allows for less invasiveness and the highest efficiency. What does this mean for the patient? First of all, the possibility of tailoring therapy to individual needs. We can fight various skin problems during one laser treatment. In the treatment of rosacea, the highest effectiveness is guaranteed by the combination of phototherapy with a neodymiumyag laser. These complement each other while fighting erythema and dilated capillaries. Thanks to this, very good effects can be seen after the first treatment. In turn, for patients who want to rejuvenate the skin and at the same time improve the face oval, the combination of SkinTyte treatment with the Halo ™ hybrid laser is perfect. In fact, there are as many combinations as there are cases of our patients.

What results can you count on? The right combination of erbiumyag laser and diode in the Halo ™ procedure means that our patients can count on a short recovery time of just four days. We operate on two levels: on one hand, the renewal of the epidermis, the elimination of discoloration and the reduction of pores, and on the other, we stimulate collagen synthesis in the dermis. The final effect is an improvement to the skin tone, the smoothing of fine wrinkles, the elimination of discoloration and "thickening" of the skin by increasing the amount of collagen fibers. How can we make our skin look beautiful? The key to beautiful skin is the clever use of the possibilities of modern medicine and aesthetic cosmetology. Combination therapies currently seem to be the most effective. When properly selected and performed with the right frequency, photorejuvenation and laser therapy in combination with selected treatment methods guarantee not only efficiency but also a natural look. It is worth remembering that modern care works well in the long-term care of skin. At the Holistic Clinic, every patient has a Smart Aging Plan prepared by an individual doctor, which ensures regularity and individualized selection of therapy. Do treatments with the Joule ™ X platform have a chance to change the perception of laser therapy? Fractional laser therapy has until now been associated with long convalescence and invasiveness. The Halo ™ laser allows you to achieve an effect comparable to aggressive ablation techniques, but with a very short recovery time. We invite you to find out for yourself.

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HOME & DESIGN 8288 The graphic art of co-owner Robert Kuta; hard-to-find scents by Andrea Maack; stationary by Midori; and beautiful jewelry pieces by the likes of All Blues and Otiumberg await inside this thrilling, fresh-minded concept store. Blending the functions of a gallery and shop, the aesthetic value of 8288 is impossible to fault. ul. Mysia 3, 8288conceptstore.com Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces, Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware. Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat 28/30

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa. com

Purite Natural, ‘Made in Poland’ cosmetics

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whose eco credentials extend to beautiful recyclable packaging. Highlights include cinnamon coffee soap, coconut milk shampoo, mint hand and foot cream, and green clay cream deodorant: you’re talking about items of real and rare beauty. Pl.

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Grzybowski 10/7A, purite.pl

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. Ranging from the super cute to the ultra-cool, browse-worthy items include graphic prints, ceramics, books and quirky little things for house and home. ul.

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12,

Hoża 59/1, rzeczownik.com

Silly Design Space Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors? Maybe a mug with a cheery croc gnashing his teeth? Or perhaps an owl-shaped salt shaker? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor. ul. Piękna 47, sillydesign.pl

Slou Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al. Zjednoczenia 11, slou.pl

Spod Lady This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store. ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com

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Galeria Północna Feature inc. Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul.

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul.

Próżna 12, velt.pl

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

Chodk iewicza

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Ĺťaryna

Kulskiego

Moving? Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

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Striking and spectacular, November 1st sees swathes of the city illuminated by the soft, ghostly glow of hundreds of thousands of candles…

oland likes remembering the dead and this it does by lighting lantern-style votive candles, known locally as znicze, on graves and memorials wherever they may be. It’s a custom that hits fever pitch with All Saints’ Day on November 1 when the whole country descends on cemeteries to honor the dead – come evening, entire graveyards are left carpeted in the eerie reddish glow of these flickering little lights. It’s a spine tingling sight that must be seen to be believed.

104 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

In Warsaw, visiting Powązki Cemetery – home to some of the Poland’s most illustrious figures – is a must, but so too is a visit to the lesser known graveyards. The Augsburg Protestant cemetery bristles with spectral necropolises, while the Greek Orthodox Cemetery contains the graves of 16 Soviet workers killed during the construction of the Palace of Culture and feels particular forlorn and strangely otherworldly. Of the stranger local traditions associated with the day, find Pańska Skórka on sale at stalls outside the major cemeteries; wrapped inside thin, waxy paper, sales of this pink and white candy are almost exclusive to Warsaw.

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