Food & Drink: the cream of the crop - p. 3
Hubs & Halls: who and what to love - p. 55
Neighborhoods: local legends revealed - p. 65
Editor-in-chief
Alex Webber
insider@warsawinsider.pl
Art Director
Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com
IF NOTHING ELSE, it’s been a while – two years to be precise, two years since we last rolled out the red carpet to announce to the world our Best of Warsaw. First dating back to 1998, it’s been an annual tradition of ours to honor the city’s top bars and restaurants, a tradition that found itself crudely disrupted by a double whammy of covid and war. I’m certain not even the gloomiest of pessimists figured things could possibly get any worse after the second lockdown, but lord above, they most certainly have – for that reason, any F&B operator that’s still standing in the ring deserves our applause.
Of course, whilst we’ve seen scores of venues meet grisly, premature deaths, plenty more have survived and it would be unre alistic to include one and all in our rundown. For that reason, we’ve slanted in on the newer ones, paying particular heed and admira tion to those that opted against playing it safe to deliver something fresh – despite the mounting problems faced by the industry, they’ve led by example in these challenging times. Three cheers to them! And just as importantly, three cheers to you – the people that are still spending their buck and making sure that venues such as these have a place in this town. Enjoy the issue, and see ya’ next time…
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
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Suffering from the long-term effects of covid, and left reeling by the global impact of Mad Vlad’s lunatic inva sion of Ukraine, Warsaw’s F&B sector finds itself in a delicate state – caution is now the industry watchword. Yet despite the significant challenges, the last couple of years have also seen a flush of creativity, invention and quality entrants. As we step tentatively into the unknown, join us in our celebration of the venues and people that provided cause for cheer during these unique and testing times.
of Warsaw
Popular as it was before, the lockdown era reaffirmed the city’s love of pizza – and in particular, the Neapolitan style…
POLLYPIZZA NEOPOLITAN With more and more Neapolitan pizzerias open ing around town, pizzaiolos are having to catch Warsaw’s attention with farout ideas. Polly does that with gusto. First, by an interior filled mid-20th cen tury furniture that’s been tweaked to act as counters and storage; secondly, by pizzas with names such as Legalize Marinara (featuring splashes of CBD oil). Also notable, we loved the Texas Sun, a pizza with chili honey splattered over it as if by Jackson Pollock – think of it like a sweet kiss after eating a spicy pepper. The glitzy leopard pizza cutters are a final witty touch. ul. Puławska 24
The sheer depth of this cavernous space is enhanced yet further by a wall of mirrors positioned at the end. Elsewhere, the white and light interior is lent a hit of color thanks to overhead flowerpot lamps designed by Scandi design god Verner Panton. But the dev il is in the detail and we love all the little Italian trinkets. These visuals though fade in importance when you consider the pizza. A euphoric pleasure, the put tanesca is composed of salty ancho vies and a volcanic sauce with blasts of olives and capers. Magical in quality, it might not change your life, but it will change your night! Waryńskiego 28
Alright, you’ve caught us out – having opened in early 2020, Nonna pre-dated quarantine times by a matter of weeks. Still, it makes our list on account of consistently magical pizzas.
Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas have captivated the public way before we began relying on box-delivered foods. Having survived all that, they’ve continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity. Maximum points too for a design-led interior of tall plants, check ered floors, rough brick and a bar you actually want to sit at. The crowds say it all. Oboźna 11
In their previous guise as Dwa Osiem, this hip joint enjoyed a cult reputation on the riverfront. That rep has not only continued since they moved uptown to Krucza, but flourished yet further. The classics are great, but even better are their own inventions and weekly pizza premiers. Making their own burrata, their attention to detail has built them an impressive fanbase that doesn’t mind queuing before being led to their table. Feeling young and happening, you’ll stick around long after the pizza’s done with to enjoy author’s cocktails that feel of the moment. Krucza 16/12
BIANCA Run by Francesco from Puglia (“a region where mozzarella has the same importance as our daily bread,” he says), and Kaja, a cheese expert, this duo have combined Italian recipes with premium Polish eco-milk available to create the best mozzarella you’ll find in the city – actually, make that the country. Functioning as an online secret for far too long, now the couple have gone the extra yard to open a small, tastefully decorated bi-level eatery selling quick Italian bites, hardto-find import wines and, of course, their artisanal cheeses. Believe us, this place is going to blow up once word starts getting out. Natolińska 3
WŁOSKI MĄŻ Pamper your pantry by visiting Włoski Mąż, an Italian king dom run by expat Alessandro. Cherry picking the best of the best from his native country, his stock includes deli essentials like Guaniale, Prosciutto Cotto, Prosciutto San Michelle, Salame Napoli and Speck, as well as Amedei cocoa cream from Tuscany – think Nutella without all the bad stuff. Before leaving, check the deli counter for three trays of homemade goodies – the lasagna is out of this world. But there’s also much more in this tiny shop, and you’ll soon learn to humanize it and refer to it as your favorite new friend. ul. Mokotowska 41
It’s always heartwarming to hear of someone chucking in the rat race to pursue their culinary passion – and then seeing it all go to plan. So with that in mind, meet Luca Dalla Costa, a former marketing & communication bod that woke up one day and said, “f**k it, I’ll open a gelateria!” Working on a trial and error approach, he’s mixed Venetian techniques with the freshest ingredients to create a magic world where weaknesses don’t exist – at least, we haven’t found any. Even making their own savoiardi biscuits for their tiramisu ice cream, his passion is only beaten by the quality of the end product. Also serving cannoli and a few other desserts, here’s just about one of our favorite stars of 2022 – and if Powiśle is too far to see for yourself, then let them come to you. Delivery is available courtesy of Wolt (our tip: croccante di noto, a teasing pleasure of almond, orange peel and salted caramel). Leszczyńska 4
Warsaw’s cocktail scene has traditionally been defined by its plagiaristic tendencies – in its early days, it was compulsory to look like a slick first class airport lounge; more recently, we went through the whole tedium of the speakeasy fad. Now, though, it’s about individuality. Join us to sip inside the places that have truly broken virgin ground…
For something ginspirational hit Lane’s, a premium cocktail bar nestled on the ground floor of the Bristol Hotel. Having mixed for the likes of DiCaprio and Ma donna, the bar chief’s pedigree skills aren’t to be questioned. The menu includes a foxtrot through the world’s finest small batch gins and is enjoyed in a floaty ambience of peachy-pink colors, brass, glass, stone and satin. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
Finding a smaller bar would probably require a magnifying glass; tiny as it is, Aura’s Moroc can-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is bal anced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bour bons that often the basis of their thoughtful cocktails. Hoża 27
Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails like the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). It's brought cocktail culture to a new generation of 20-some thing drinkers. Poznańska 21
Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these number six interpretations of negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks. The speed with which they’re fixed belie the quality at play. Not one thing isn't beautiful - and that includes the crowd. Waryńskiego 9C
Filled with light during the day, come dusk the curtains sweep shut to close guests off from the outside world. Sensual fragranc es waft around, complementing a luxury menu touting bottles of craft sake that peak at PLN 3,000. Fixed by immaculate staff, cocktails are also prominent and include the refreshingly aromatic Summertime Sadness. It's easy to spend big in Sakebar, but it's a worthwhile luxury in which to indulge. Wilcza 73
Black and white photos refer encing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto an interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with craft ingredients resulting in drinks like the Hemingway (Mara schino, house-made clarified grapefruit juice, coconut sugar and Zaremba’s own rum blend). Nowogrodzka 15
Ten years is a long time whichever way you wish to look at it – but in gastronomy, it’s even longer. That Nolita has outlasted other premium experiences of its caliber is a testament to Jacek Grochowina’s talent, strategy and underpinning vision. “The night before we opened I remember how stressed my wife and I were,” he tells the Insider, “but from the very beginning we knew we were in it for the long-term.”
Having ridden the lockdowns and other force majeures, Grochowina’s project has become enshrined in foodie folklore, a place where discreet, understated luxury meets world class tastes. “Over time I’ve definitely matured,” he says, “but the passion remains the same. At Nolita, we’ve achieved a synergy between our own goals and the expectations of our guests, and finding that medium has been key.”
Clearly, so has the food. An ode to Grochowina’s skill, there is a mastery at
play that makes itself known in the clutch of iconic mainstay dishes: bluefin tuna tartare, kohlrabi, yuzu prove an explosion of freshness; equally memorable, grilled octopus coated with wasabi mayo and tapioca crisps works in cohesion with a surprising, adventurous hit of chili that comes with the creamy potato. “I once took this off the menu,” he admits, “and was told by a regular he wouldn’t be back until I reinstalled it!” Whoever this mystery guest is, he merits our gratitude.
These classics aside, the menu is a dynamically evolving work that treasures details and finesse: razor thin cuts of ven ison loin are served in the style of millefeuille with boletus mushroom carefully layered in between. It is exquisite, and perhaps one of the best examples of No lita’s devotion to technique and product. But like the food itself, this is a restaurant to savor.
PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS Cooped up during lock down, flat mates Monika and Klaudia longed to get away – but unlike most of us who didn’t move from the sofa, they got proactive and brought the world to their kitchen. Scouring the web for exotic recipes the pair began experimenting and veg anizing what they found. Sharing their creations with friends, the positive feedback they received led them to open Peaches, a place with a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors. Fab from the outset, their Asian and Latin American interpretations win particular praise: substituting meat with Portobellos, their tacos are as authentic as they come, while the wontons deserve their own gold medal. Mokotowska 58
BOCA BOCA Anchored by a geometric mural that declares ‘Guilty Pleasure’ in glowing pink letters, this pocket-sized locale exudes a sense of fun. Written up on the blackboard, the menu casts it net over the biggest comfort foods known to man, and these include empanadas – small, tasty plea sures with a puff pastry shell holding the good ness together inside. And there’s the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots, onions and red cabbage. But the undisputed star? Behold their chimichanga! Mikołaja Kopernika 25
LA VEGANA The menu is a bamboozling work of Byzan tine complexity, but think of that as a charming quirk – as it turns out, it contains treasures galore. Alive with fragrant, fresh flavors, the nem rolls, tofu bulgogi and yuba cha (fried tofu skin) all come recommended, as does the house kim chi: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage. The pho, meanwhile, completes your plunge into gentle happiness. Beyond the food, there’s something immensely likeable about La Vegana, and part of that is down to a roomy interior that blends teal colors with wood finishes, wicker extras and statuettes of kneeling deities. Zgoda 4
“I was daydreaming in lectures one time and all I could think of was the donuts I used to eat when me and Patrycja lived in New York,” says Kamila, one of the three owners behind MOD and Reginabar. “I tex ted her in class saying that we needed do nuts like that in Warsaw and that’s where it all began.” Not only did they bring wacky artisanal donuts to the Polish capital, but along the way they also got Trisno Hamid involved, a Singaporean chef with a CV that included a stint at London’s legendary fine dining haunt La Gavroche.
Starting out as a donut store in the mornings, and a cool ramen joint by night (with some brill Asian-French mains thrown in as well), the cool and kooky MOD became the hottest address in town – that is, until the trio usurped themselves by opening Reginabar as well. Harnessing the 70s spirit of Little Italy and China Town, to this day this slice of ethnic NYC remains one of the most talked-about gathering spots in Warsaw – a place where influ encers, crypto traders and fashion school grads meet and mingle over bio wines and intriguing cocktails from the Girls on Top menu.
Popular demand, though, had been far from sated. Next, came a pretty pink donut boutique in Saska K., and that was followed over summer by a smaller but equally hip sequel to Reginabar located to the back of Mysia 3. While other concepts flail and struggle, the founders of MOD continue to slay everything before them as if they were wearing some bulletproof cape. No-one else has captured the zeit geist in quite the same way.
SENOR LUCAS Discovered down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its small propor tions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best. Based around handmade tortillas, find a limited menu of burritos and rolled quesa dillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)
SPICE & YOU Majoring in the tastes of South Vietnam, Spice & You makes up for its geographical shortcomings (location: a dreary, commie housing block in Muranów), with a welcom ing interior composed of colorful silk lanterns. Accruing a steady stream of repeat customers, the faithful return for the bún bò, an aromatic broth with boiled beef, spring onions, coriander, rice noodles and fresh herbs and veg. Jana Pawła II 65
AHAAN Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. Breathing new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic round abouts, Ahaan will wok your world! Unii Lubelskiej 1
Warsaw has long displayed not just an appreciation for Asian food, but something of a mania – and the number of restaurants bear witness to that fact. Many, though, are mired in medioc rity. Punching through the lackluster imposters, restaurateur Linh Nguyen, however, has brought us closer to exotic climes with her string of restau rants. Numbering such award-winning ventures as Vietnamka, Koreanka and most recently Japonka and Azjatka, these have complemented her existing stable of addresses.
“Poles go out more than they used to,” she tells the Insider, “they’re more curious about different flavors – they’re also more aware about ingredients and want their food experience to be an adventure. Additionally, they do pay attention to the design before picking a place to eat.”
At her venues, all deliver on the above criteria and while Nguyen admits that product availability remains a prob lem when striving for authenticity, her restaurants have proved a deliciously pleasing bridge to the far east. Although she warns that next year will be one of caution when it comes to the F&B industry, her winning streak is likely to remain unchallenged. No-one has done more to open Warsaw’s taste buds to the east, and for that this culinary entre preneur merits our recognition.
BĘDZIE DOBRZE PIEKARNIA The top tip here is to snap up their shokupan – better known as ‘Japa nese milk bread’, find it hauled fresh from the oven round about noon. Visit also for wheat-rye French baguettes and Poland’s iconic drożdżówka sweet rolls. The name, incidentally, refers to the optimis tic motto adopted by the city during the first wave of Covid (eek!). Puławska 23/25
RDEST This neighborhood gem could go unno ticed were it not for the lovely oversized typogra phy set vertically on the large storefront window – this outsized statement contrasts against the tiny bakery it advertises. But here, small is perfect. Using forms to bake, this method ensures the bread lasts longer than your usual loaf. Check, too, their pastries which have quickly gained their own loyal following. ul. Puławska 38
HAVANA History has a funny habit of repeating itself. Opened in the 1960s in what was then the Merkury Department Store, for two decades Hava na was celebrated around Żoliborz for its groovy jukebox and jelly concoctions. Three years ago, it was revived anew, only this time as a bar-restau rant-café crossover.
Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trim mings that are respectful of this space’s former life. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or
specialty coffee sourced from local roasters. And if you’re looking for something more, then there’s also a vegan menu of solid reputation.
But ask anyone, and it’s Havana’s atmosphere that really stands out – warm and engaging in winter, outside of the Baltic months the L-shaped terrace is the place to be seen: whereas Warsaw’s other sky bars fill with aspiring George Clooney lookalikes (y’know, big watches, white shirts, Merc keys jangling), you get the idea that Havana would be happy if Pete Doherty walked in with a crum pled hat and a cig dangling from his lip. It’s all the better for that. Słowackiego 16/18
Nuta isn’t so much about the restaurant as it is the man in the kitchen. Who is he? Step forward Andrea Camastra. Raised in Bari, Andrea Camastra’s visionary approach to cooking saw him claim his first Michelin star in 2016 for his Warsaw fine dining venue, Senses. Singled out by Hervé This (one of the founding fathers of molecular gastronomy) as the natural successor to Ferran Adrià, Camastra later found himself inducted into Le Chef’s
rundown of the world’s top 100 chefs. Commonly understood to be the biggest gastronomic talent working in Poland, his new restaurant Nuta has stunned all ever since debuting at the start of the year.
Now, Camastra’s previous gaffe, Senses, did have the capacity to intimi date: just entering meant walking down a red-carpeted flame-lit corridor that had you thinking you were attending the Os cars. Plush and painfully posh, it wasn’t a place for the casual interloper. Nuta, on the other hand, is far more accessible in its style and spirit. This openness is emphasized by the vast floor-to-ceiling windows and a design that feels sophisti cated but never ceremonial.
As for the food, this is where it gets even more interesting. Celebrated for
his creative use of science, Camastra was previously hailed for his note-bynote philosophy, an artistic process that saw him extract flavor molecules from some foods before adding them to others. Things have changed, and at Nuta he is keen to push his artis anal credentials. “Anyone can learn science,” he says, “but using artisanal methods takes real skill.”
Despite eyewatering offers from abroad, never did Camastra consider leaving Poland when Senses found itself guillotined by Covid. “Why would I,” he shrugs, “I love this country.” This much is apparent via a menu that has sought to celebrate his newfound life in Warsaw. Of course, there are cheeky references to Italy (the mini
pizza, for instance, which mixes Tuscan and Neapolitan styles and is enjoyed with garlic foam), but these are outweighed by the heavy Polski slant.
Take the chłodnik as an example, a dish made with fermented beetroot juice and served in a chilled gazpacho style with 12-year-old balsamic vine gar, goat cheese foam and a fresh hit of horse radish ice cream. Next, sea trout that’s been barely cooked and served with sour cucumber gazpacho, daikon pickle, compressed cucumber, mustard ice cream and a miso leaf wheel. Locally-caught we’re told the fish is, but such is its texture that it could have been sent from heaven.
And from there, the going gets even better. Nordic sea mackerel comes with a Polish teriyaki glaze (sour cu cumber and sour cabbage juice) and a broth of alium to represent the onion and garlic family. But the biggest win of the night comes from the duck, a beautifully cooked bird in a sauce of such oomph that it might knock you sideways. “It gives a real upper cut,” says the chef, and he’s completely right.
A world class experience, Nuta has no peer. Aimed at people that want to enjoy the very best that life has to offer, the financial trade-off made by dining here is definitely worthwhile. Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens. A complex odyssey that engages every pleasure receptacle in the human body, it is absolutely unthinkable that anyone can leave without being stag gered by the quality. Camastra himself says he’s no longer chasing Michelin stars, and that’s principally because he knows they will arrive regardless of his goals – and yes, interpret that not as a sign of arrogance but for what it really is: a statement of fact. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14
CUKIERNIA DOMO BAKE Nicknamed ‘the Sugar Queen’, self-taught Dominika Małysiak has earned every jewel in her baking crown. Evoking a ‘last days of disco’ vibe, her new walk-in store is a paean to her skill – the macaroons and red velvet pops are our fave. Dobra 26
MUAS COFFEE Coffee figures highly in this light space (check the holographic counter!), but the pastry side also merits attention – though not their own making (sources include Mama Mar ietta and Miss Mellow), tasties include Sicilian shell-shaped sfoglitatella and raspberry canoli, and superb galettes. Dolna 30A
TONKA Set in a slab of communist concrete overlooking the POLIN museum, Tonka is the best surprise you’ll treat yourself too this month. The chic design is unexpected and the desserts are out-of-this world: the creamy raspberry roll is iconic! Karmelicka 19
MUZEALNA
The perfect marriage of art, design, wine and food, this collector’s item comes straight from the portfolio of the same duo behind Ale Wino and Kukułka. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber is sprinkled generously with works at tributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers, a subtle nod to this venue’s location: the National Museum. Exam ples of the applied art are copious and include a communal table manufac tured from upcycled fishing nets and colorful 3D-printed totems. The kitchen, meanwhile, offers a playful reimagining of Poland’s culinary classics as well as a creative Polonization of international dishes – when we visited, the highlight was a beetroot wellington touting bold, rustic tastes and a magical puff pastry coating. Al. Jerozolimskie 3
Warsaw
LEGIA WARSZAWA For the seminal Warsaw experience, a trip down to the country’s biggest football side, Legia, feels almost mandatory. But don’t think attending is just about the football. Holding north of 30,000, the club’s sta dium provides proof of Polish football’s regeneration, and this strikes espe cially true when considering Legia’s hospitality facilities. It is to these that everyone should head to at least once in their lives.
Coming in two bands, gold and sil ver, expect access to executive loung es that don’t just offer the best seats in the house, but also a top class buffet and free flow alcohol inside suave and glossy halls: if you’ve lived in Warsaw long enough, the atmo sphere is almost reminiscent of the five-star hotel Sunday brunches to which we all used to head – feeling slick and smart but also chattery and social, even those who don’t care for football profess it to be an exceptional one-off way to enjoy the best War saw has. With a bird’s eye view of the theatrical antics coming from the main home stand thrown in as a bonus, it’s an extraordinary experience that won’t be forgotten. Łazienkowska 3
Forming almost a perfect triangle, the mass of craft beer pubs that fall within the tips represented by Beer Station, Cześć and Cuda Na Kiju are ripe for a weekend to remember (or forget, depending on how much you imbibe).
With over 50 taps to choose from, and even more beers in the fridge(s), the choice at Brewski will make you dizzy – our tip, scope out the offer before turning up by looking at the ontap app. Once the home of the scuzzy, all-hours Piw Paw, Brewski have smartened up the interior (though not the toilet) to add a sense of class with an array of Chesterfield sofas.
Proudly run by Belarussian exiles (that’s a pre-Lukashenko flag behind the bar), traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks. The choice is not revolutionary, but this place is loved by all those who like a wild night – the weekends do get messy with a sloshed and diverse crowd.
Opened in 2013, Warsaw’s first legiti mate tap bar looks just as edgy as ever slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party head quarters. In fact, with so many youthful bars now neighboring it, some would say it’s never enjoyed greater popular ity. Notable for its glass walls, spirally staircase and pinball machines, find 15 taps keeping guests amused. Though less niche in its than many of its com petitors, this actually acts in its favor by broadening Cuda’s appeal to more than beer nerds.
Now in their 26th year of business, Gorączka Złota’s longevity is a reflec tion of the place they hold in Warsaw’s heart. Pungent and poky, this steamy pub glows green at night with creaky wood panels and beery paraphernalia lending it the kind of warm atmosphere that its locals treasure. A bad pint is unknown here with GZ’s five taps complemented by a choice selection of bottles from Poland’s rebel brewers.
Compact and box-like, Cześć have transitioned to become one of the cornerstones of Warsaw’s craft scene. Flying in the face of fads and fashions, it’s a bar that feels honest and comfort able in its own skin. Looking pleasantly worn-in after nearly nine-years of service the rotation of beers is brilliant ly balanced between new finds and traditional top-sellers from the canon of Artezan, Pinta and other A-class Polish breweries.
Replicating the look of a disused power station, the Double D is a place of rugged brickwork, steel girders, vintage voltage meters and, get this, clanky toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Set over three floors, the 14 craft taps are largely committed to the wild tastes of modern Poland.
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We don’t know for sure, but we suspect that Hopito was launched to open up the craft scene to the Gen Z crowd. Certainly that’s reflected by a fun interi or decorated by Poland’s biggest street artists, as well as other additions such as a beer slushy machine and fun Ne apolitan pizzas (who’d have thought of switching tomatoes for mango?). And there’s the beers themselves – known for their wacky tastes, this bar’s name sake brewery specializes in logic-break ing brews such as their blueberry & blackcurrant coffee sour pastry ale.
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Comfortable and reliable, Hoppiness are like your favorite slippers – only better tasting. It doesn’t take much of a crowd to generate a bubbly atmo sphere full of laughs and cackles, and the buzz is such the interior details get easily lost in the ensuing blur of clinking glasses and random conversation. On the tap front, their diamond dozen gives a 360 view of Poland’s beer scene.
Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adven turous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior.
KiK could easily be named as Warsaw’s ambassador for craft beer pubs –were that so, it would play its role with distinction. Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the interiors feature a warming back room with low-slung armchairs, but the real action is out front where note-taking nerds and international pissheads join as one to clamor around a bar serving some of the best beer in Poland.
Our disclaimer: when Kufle opened on Nowy Świat we were far from con vinced – actually, we called it main stream and mediocre. Can we take that back? Warming to it considerably since, it’s a fine choice on a street otherwise suffocated by your typical high street commercialism. Like stepping into a 70s living room, it vibes brilliantly as well.
Delayed by that never-ending lock down (good riddance!), Pinta’s flagship Warsaw bar didn’t have the best start in life. That hasn’t stopped it from growing to become one of the standout bars the capital can offer: bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-colored Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.
ANONS DO DZIELNI This charming brick-lined recess has a magical intimacy and a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity. The cooking here sings of care and freshness, and it becomes a pleasure to pick your way through a seasonal menu of homespun tastes. The beef cheeks are exceptional, but we’ve also taken great joy in balls of black pudding with panko and apple sauce – this is the gastro equivalent of a hug between friends. Madalińskiego 7
ŹRÓDŁO Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for the exquisite. For us, the pierogi with mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese remain a favorite memory. ul. Targowa 81
SYTY CHMIEL Some know Syty Chmiel as a craft multitap, but the truth is it’s also so much more. Better-known as Pan Tasak, co-owner Wit Szychowski has devised a menu that cham pions Poland’s rural greatness, with star cameos including blood sausage pancakes with caramel ized apples. Hearty yet surprisingly sophisticated in its presentation and tastes, this is the kind of food befitting of the sound of clinking glasses. Marszałkowska 10/16
PATELNIA PATERA Warm and homely with its woodsy finishes and empty pans hanging from the walls, Patelnia Patera deserve credit for creating the most incredible schabowy we’ve yet to taste: this flattened portion of pork is monstrous in size and marinated overnight in buttermilk ensuring that the meat stays moist and tender when fried. Coated in challah bread crumbs mixed with dried podgrzybki, the flavors are electrifying. Wilcza 29A
Finessing the countryside tastes we all know and love, a crop of new restaurants are successfully reexamining Poland’s culinary traditions…
The last time Witek Iwański found himself included in one of our Best of Warsaw’s round-ups was six-years back when he was named as our ‘One to Watch’. Then employed at the Aruana restaurant in the out-of-town Hotel Narvil, we used the occasion to describe him as “a breathlessly exciting talent” whose cooking “embrac es obscure and unusual ingredients that are fine-tuned using the latest know-how and kitchen magic.” The only problem, we concluded, was that his restaurant sat 40-kilometers north of Warsaw.
Skip forward to 2022 and the foodie press went into meltdown when, over summer, he launched his own capital city venture: hub.praga. Occupying a discreet spot on upcoming Jagiellońska, it’s all you ever want from a top class restaurant – a stunning dining room with high ceilings, long windows and an interior that’s effortless in its understated elegance – tan, beige and white, these seemingly neutral colors are brought to life by some statement art, moon-shaped mirrors and gleaming light fittings of different shape and size.
As welcoming as the ambience might be though, it was Iwański’s kitchen mira
cles that made our visit one of the most pleasurable research trips we’ve had for a while (it’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it, right?). Purposefully offering tiny servings, this concept not only limits wastage, but also encourages diners to order three, four, or even five mi cro-mains – this way, you see the depth of Iwański’s skill.
Looking like miniaturized works of art, each course is a micro bomb of sophisti cated goodness with the offer, of course, adjusted to suit the season. For us, that meant an exquisite beetroot salad; a subtly refined tartar topped with crunchy perilla leaves and a pair of marinated Mirabelle plums; and veal with walloping big tastes and a side of savoy cabbage.
Harking back to that pre-covid time when chefs sought to thrill their audience rather than simply play it safe, Iwański’s project deserves every accolade it receives. Naturally, so too does the man himself – displaying his adaptability, summer saw him take the Nocny Market by storm with a weekend pop-up whose crowd-pleasing raves included yakitori duck donuts. hub.praga, Jagiellońska 22
Shedding the fussy formality of former years, Warsaw’s wine direction has seen the opening of smaller, de sign-forward tasting rooms that blur the boundary between store and bar…
Billing itself as “a place for people who value pleasant moments with a glass of good wine,” this somewhat modest description undersells what is sure to become one of Warsaw’s big check-ins.. A place of subtle and calming class, their philosophy moves in rhythm with a design authored by the Moszczyńska Puchalska studio – featuring ceramic floor tiles and an inter-connected table arrangement, it’s an intimate space (30 sq/m!) that softly whispers goodness. Set with easy colors, there is nothing that overpowers the chief attraction: gorgeous wall fittings that are home to wines handpicked from trending vineyards in France, Italy and beyond. Mokotowska 54
We thoroughly expected Browary Warszawskie to present a spec tacular wine concept, and they did exactly that. Overseen by Magda Butkiewicz-Dudzińska and Norbert Dudziński (former sommelier at Dyletanci as well as the triple Miche lin-starred Geranium), their stint in Co penhagen is evidenced via a beautiful design defined by its sophisticated simplicity, soft curved lines and sense of light and space. Familial in its atmo sphere, the offer is not to be shrugged at. “Wines from Champagne, Jura, the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Etna, Tenerife, Moselle are our essence,” says Nor bert. “And also natural wines as well –
organic, biodynamic, low-intervention, modernist, terrorist, authenticist and naturalist.” Krochmalna 56
Founded by interior designer Dominika Buck and film producer Radek Drabik, Warsaw’s most talked about wine importer have continued to make a splash ever since setting up a bricksand-mortar location on a trending stretch of lively Emili Plater. Special izing in natural wines sourced from small, artisanal wineries, the diverse and extensive portfolio favors the unconventional with the choice solely focused on organic and biodynamic varietals - orange wines are a fave, but the selection covers all bases. Manned by helpful and knowledgeable staff, and set in a gorgeous room dominated by a long communal table, the store is complemented by their flagship bar on Moliera. Hoża 61
Possibly no other place has done a better job of demonstrating how far Warsaw has come from the stiff conventionality of old – bathed in the soft light of the 70s style vintage lamps scattered about, the tone is set out front by the wacky board signboard that likens switching to natural wine as “travelling from black and white to intense psychedelic”. Riffing further on the retro theme, slump on the funky modular leather sofa while scoping out their other vintage ephemera. As fun as this trip in time is, the wines are of the cutting edge and are ably support ed by the cooking of co-owner Oleg. Zajęcza 1A
KE NAKO / HARRY’S KITCHEN There can be no summer without Ke Nako! Operating as an online delivery service (kenakofoods.pl), the specialty here are massive wheels of South African-style Boerwors sausages. But these BBQ faves aside, chef Darren also produces British-style bangers, air-dried Biltong beef and a range of pies that have a deliciously warming quality to stave off the cold winter frosts – made-to-order, these include flavors such as bacon & cheese or chicken & mushroom. Already acquiring a sizeable following, visit his Praga-based food truck (called, incongruously, Harry’s), to feast on the most authentic fish’n’chips Warsaw’s ever seen!
When the Blue Cactus closed in 2017 after twenty-years of service, was that really the end? No, it was just the end of the first chapter. Revived in two parts over summer, the management have done a fine job of demon strating that real legends never die. Bringing several bits and pieces out of storage (e.g. the original chairs!), they’ve successfully fused the past with the present by sticking to core found ing principles (fun and margaritas: compulsory!) whilst embracing new philosophies. Exuding a sense of confident vitality, the spirit and style of the Cactus is paired with a pleasurable menu that all with love: the tacos and burritos are unimpeachable and enjoyed all the more after being lashed with their homespun salsas.
Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)
Economic crisis be damned – this hot trio have successfully replicated their original venues to hit new corners of town… and with style to spare!
Beginning life as a touring pop-up, the success of Vegan Ramen Shop necessitated the launch of a more permanent space in 2017 – the brand has snowballed ever since, with their latest address taking root in Muranów just after the first lock down. Sparingly adorned with a Street Fighter arcade machine, a pink surfboard and some token Japanese trimmings, the low-budget austerity is offset by the cool crowd, LOUD sounds and huge, full-fisted flavors. The queues say much… Jana Pawła II 52
Snuck to the back of Warsaw’s hippest depart ment store, Reginabar have done it again, this time with a shiny pastel colored bolt-hole featur ing primrose-colored tiled tables, sky blue seating, some trademark neon and a wavy open kitchen counter. Everything on the menu screams ‘order me’, and that means thick, fluffy squares of pizza and America-Chinese comfort food such as Gen eral Tso’s Chicken. Classic highballs aside, visit for fun and flirty cocktails with an Asian spin. Mysia 3
KRAKEN Looking like something Quint from Jaws would design, this cool courtyard tavern is filled with fishing nets, lanterns and shark fangs, not to mention octopus-themed wall art and a s hip’s wheel behind the bar. Even the tables come engraved with caricatures of maritime heroes such as Popeye. Fueling the sense of reverie in this fashionable shack-style space, order from a seafood menu before hitting their rumbased cocktails. The dark & stormy is a winner. Rydygiera 9
Great things can happen when left in the hands of a blistering talent…
Inside chic, bespoke interiors, enjoy the modern flavors of Warsaw courtesy of head chef Witek Iwański.
And for a highly-personalized experience to remember in the heart of all the action, join us for dinner at the chef's table...
Head chef and co-owner Martin Gimenez Castro require no introduction; first burst ing onto the public radar in 2013 when he stormed to victory in the inaugural season of Top Chef Polska in 2013, the Argentinean has since become one of the most prominent figures on Warsaw’s foodie landscape: after a stint heading the acclaimed but now defunct fine din ing establishment Salto, he then struck out on his own to create Ceviche Bar, a smart-casual restaurant that allowed him to showcase his passion for Latin Ameri ca to stunning effect.
Flourishing to this day, Ceviche Bar’s success has, however, proved a dou
ble-edge sword. “When you’ve got such a good team behind you,” admits Martin, “you don’t always need to be there.” The time had come for a new challenge. “As a chef you’re always on the lookout to create something new, and I’d been thinking of opening a fish restaurant for quite some time,” he says. “At the top of my mind though, I wanted it to do something different with this core ingredient.”
Joining forces with design guru David Racchi, the duo launched Tuna over summer in an on-trend part of Powiśle. Tucked away from the principal footfall, it immediately became a cult destination. Looking elegantly refined and dominat ed by the sight of 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls, it’s a place of some style – smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic, and the look is rounded out by the presence of an open kitchen, display cases of fish and a central bar to encourage bar-top dining.
An ecstasy of tastes, Tuna succeeds in reimagining everything you thought you knew about eating fish. Creative but never silly, this restaurant is a heartfelt celebration of seafood, one that pushes boundaries without ever doing so just for the sake of it.
Brilliant in every way possible, this restaurant is proof that Warsaw hasn’t lost all of its swagger and invention – sure, you will find classics such as Gillardeau No. 2 oysters served on ice, or premium Antonius five star Siberian caviar, but the true thrill lies in explor ing the chef’s more unexpected flights of fancy: the ‘fish platter’ is a supreme example, presenting as it does tuna sausages, corvina mortadella and salmon jerky. Marinated for two days before being slow-dried, the latter is particularly sublime.
Eyebrows are again approvingly raised with the tuna nduja – spicy but not over whelmingly so, the kick is just enough to act as a pleasing surprise; elsewhere, tuna tartare is everything you want it to be and a little bit more. Something of a feel good restaurant, this is a place where passion and talent collide in one mighty bang of rollicking tastes. Elektryczna 2
SYRENA IRENA When it comes to visual identity, Syrena Irena slayed the competition with a one-in-a-million inte rior served up by the acclaimed studio Projekt Praga. Retro-minded, this joyful space draws you in with its ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tabletops and bold blue colors. A witty homage to the classic eateries of old, this is a design created in rhythm with its menu: pierogi lovingly made by hand inside a white-tiled kitch en you can peer right into. Finessed for modern times, these creations include such fillings as sweet cheese and orange peel. Looking and tasting great, rarely has a place’s branding felt so entwined with its culinary philosophy. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6
JASSMINE For a city that professes to love jazz so much, the number of live venues offering just that seems sadly lacking – especially when compared against other major European cities. Redressing the balance somewhat is Jassmine, a premium address that could easily serve as backdrop in a Da vid Lynch flick. Subtle but enthralling in its design, its darkness is penetrated by dozen orblike table lamps and over head lights that bring to mind a spec tacular star fall. Sophisticated cocktails and excellent acoustics make gigs here a pleasure: and yes, the names that have played here have been second to none – Makoto Ozone, Anna Maria Jopek, Kurt Elling and other such luminaries. Wilcza 73 (Nobu Hotel)
Looking stripped down to max imize the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Sprinkled with small, custom-made trinkets, there’s enough going on to ensure that the sparsity is never too heavy. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers and fash ionista that have made this their domain. Re portedly the largest natural wine in the whole of Europe, the extraordinary selection brings alternative producers to the fore with the owners only working with those that practice ‘dry farming’ methods. Lacking in enhancers, artificial nasties and synthetic additives, these unconventional wines aren’t just intriguing, they’re hangover free! Moliera 6
CYBERMACHINA WARSZAWA Illuminated with neon lights depicting legends such as Pac-Man, find glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks, a mannequin of Mortal Kombat’s Scorpion and a side room designed to evoke a 90s-style Polish living room: right down to a wall unit con taining a vintage boombox, a KK-628 calculator watch and the works of Terry Pratchett. Wacky craft beers aside, order house drinks such Robot Unicorn Attack and Dragon Balls. And then there’s the real reason people flock here: there’s a big screen for games tournaments, and a pile of retro titles such as Worms Armageddon and Deluxe Ski Jump. Exploring, find a room set aside for Guitar Hero, consoles strategically spread around, and shelves filled with board games like Talisman, Dix it, Catan and Neuroshima Hex Nowy Świat 54/56
For many, Paweł Leszczyński is known foremost as the co-founder (and today, principal organizer) of the Warsaw Beer Festival – from humble and chaotic beginnings in 2014, the event has since grown to become one of Central Europe’s most loved craft festivals: a statement born out by its record attendances. Through its success, Leszczyński has lifted the international profile of Poland’s craft scene to new heights. But more than just running one of our favorite drink-ups, it is his ceaseless behind-the-scenes work
that stands out. Helping rally the craft scene during the covid crisis, he was similarly quick to respond to the war next door by organizing charity drives at his festival to aid Ukraine.
A pillar of the craft community, he explains: “we don’t look on people as Russians or Ukrainians or Poles. We’re a global community that supports peace and happiness. When we drink, we don’t fight and argue. F**k those that want to tear us apart – don’t obey them. Drink good beer.” Paweł, we salute you!
Despite debuting in 2016, the sum mer-only Nocny Market makes the Insider’s Hot List due to its continued determination to set new standards and break old boundaries – no-one, not in the entire history of Warsaw’s gastro scene, has done more to expand the city’s street food land scape. Set on a disheveled, disused train platform, the Nocny Market have continued to prove themselves to be a vital part of the city’s social fabric by bringing together a rotating roster of dozens of street vendors.
But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, Nocny Market is loved mostly for its atmo sphere. Walking down the dark but recobbled pathway, the sensation is almost reminiscent of attending a festival – walking past bits of street art, join the human wave that washes as one towards the din up ahead. There, one is greeted by the sight of dozens of neon signs hanging off the iron girders to create a quite stunning visual display.
Though looking a little smarter than in its first years of life, the raw and gritty undercurrent has remained in place, and that’s nudged along further by the big beats from the DJ decks and general sense of good-hu mored commotion. A place of noise and clamor, it’s impossible not to feel hooked on the energy that abounds. And to top it all off, permanent mementos can be found courtesy of the pop-up tattoo parlor that sits at the end. Every bit as brilliant as when it first premiered, one can’t help but wonder how globally renowned Nocny Market would be were it found in a city such as Berlin or Barca. ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna)
Warsaw risks being overrun by Neapolitan-style pizzerias, and while this is no bad thing, there are times when you suspect saturation point has been reached. Offering a contrasting style, Rucola’s thin-crust pizzas are a welcome diversion from recent trends. Touting an underlying and consistent quality, they’re a source of comfort on a grey Warsaw day and are supported by a strong cast of Italian mains. And then there’s Rucola’s sister chain to consider, Pinsa, a place specializing in delicious pies made using four types of flour and a 72-hour process. Various locations, trattoriarucola.pl / pinsa.pl
LA LUCE Once known as Prosciutte ria, the coming of La Luce signals a concerted attempt by the owners to show to Warsaw the true meaning of top class Italian dining – you should not come here expecting pizza. Tout ing a magnificently high end interior of raw brick, white tablecloths and vintage pictures of Italian entertainers, the menu is grandiose in its style and ambition – own made pasta, premium seafood and the refined negronis are to be applauded, but it is the 30-dayaged Black Angus striploin that is the biggest standout. Poznańska 37
Found in Warsaw’s deep east, the greatness of The Eatery isn’t up for discussion. On our visit, nothing scored less than full marks: a pitch perfect tartare; sourdough mushroom soup of awesome oomph and flavor; and pork gołąbki with a demi-glace of such depth and taste we wanted to force our way into the kitchen and hoist the chef on our shoulders. Intimate and friendly, it’s one of the most unexpected pleasures we’ve enjoyed over these last couple of years. Ostrobramska 73E
This gelateria raised eyebrows last year after it was ranked 42nd in the Gelato Festival World Rankings. Owned by Peter Bertoti, the parlor is no stranger to accolades having previously scooped domestic awards for its plum and blueberry flavors. The plaudits have been well deserved, and their raspberry with mint can count as one of their finer moments. People happily travel in from Warsaw to enjoy what they offer, so queues are par the course. Jasna 4B (Pruszków)
Some are going query the inclusion of a roadside kebab joint outside the city limits, but they’re most likely the same people that have never visited. Syrian run, this place changes every preconcep tion you’ve ever had about kebabs – cooked over a charcoal fire, find your meat doused in home made sauce and then squashed into fresh, grilled pittas that top out to the size of a baseball bat (no kidding!). Piłsudskiego 40 (Józefów) & Patriotów 24 (Falenica)
Positioned above Wierzbno metro station, and looking like something straight out of Kung Fu Panda, this curious wooden shack serves just about the most complex and flavorsome ramen the Insider has had to date. Offering up a spicy vege tantanmen loaded with fermented good ness, it’s an unforgettable potion of savory peanut essence topped with enough chili oil to put winter on hold. Naruszewicza 29
VHS BAR The opposite of bog stan dard, you’re happy to visit VHS for the bathroom alone – do so and you’ll be squeezing in next to a chunky phone, a portable hi-fi, a pair of plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T, Mitch Buchanan and other heroes of the era. Warsaw’s bars are paying increasing attention to their toilets, but VHS go the extra yard. And when you’re done doing whatever it is you’re doing inside of it, enjoy su per-fun cocktails fixed by laugh-loving staff in this tiny homage to 80s culture.
Poznańska 7Saska Kępa ul. Francuska 6 tel. 22 616 1259
Ever since Hala Koszyki thudded to earth in 2016, Warsaw’s food and drink scene has been dominated by new generation hubs and halls offering catch-all solutions for the city’s social creatures. Located within recharged historic locations, the popularity of these concepts has shown no sign of waning. Often promoting global tastes and artisanal practices, these investments have connected to their communities (and beyond) in extraordinary ways – join us to celebrate the cream of the crop.
of Warsaw
The lengths Norblin have gone to differentiate themselves have been extraordinary: for examples, refer to the luxury Kinogram cinema (Champagne vending machines, for Pete’s sake!) or the Art Box Experience – an immersive multimedia space that stole our hearts earlier in the year with their look at retro Warsaw. Then, you’ve got the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit). Mindful of their own heritage, the launch of a factory museum and guided walks (conducted by app or in person) can be cited as further proof of this project’s appreciation of local history.
Opened on the site of a for mer metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Repre senting 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Indus trial Revolution.
Warsaw’s largest food hall has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to
its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, and the Tex Mex kings at Blue Cactus. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.
Remember when a kids zone
meant little more than some tatty coloring books and board games with missing pieces? At Norblin, welcome to the future: function ing under the name of Smart Kids Planet, kids have nine areas to explore over a floorplan of 1,600 sq/m. Featuring themes such as the ‘smart shopping zone’, ‘apple orchard’, and ‘discovery zone’, these have been tailored to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, percep tion and creative thinking.
There’s no shortage of bars in the Norblin com plex, but none have caught the attention more than Piano Bar – crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s character alone oozes a sense of confident pros perity. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom.
And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte. So too, though, are the author’s cocktails. Devised by Tomek Malek, a former World Champion ‘flair bartender’, his influence as Norblin’s beverage director courses through the veins of this beautiful bar. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)
of Warsaw
In a continuance of the above, it’s this cultural aspect of Koneser that has installed it as a Warsaw stalwart. In addition to the above one-off events, visit for the world class Polish Vodka Museum or the Museum of Fantastic Art. Last year’s Banksy exhibition remains one of the most talked about exhibitions in recent memory. Culture vultures can imbibe more domestic talent by heading to the likes of the Art Sułek Space (a gallery owned by the same artist behind Praga’s iconic blue angel statuettes).
Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was built with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. According to one story, as German troops approached the city in 1915, the decision was taken to pour the vodka into the streets so as to prevent their soldiers getting their hands on it; apocryphal as it might be, the move reportedly sparked a riotous free-for-all among the disbelieving and grateful locals. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die.
But not so. Restored by Liebrecht & wooD and BBI Development and subjected to a seven-year renovation process, it reopened in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments. Opened to much fanfare, you could well argue that no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser.
For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer to gether is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. Their steaks are legendary, and these peak out (both in terms of experience and expense) with the A5 class Wagyu Hokkaido.
The name of Bombaj Masala is known to all of Warsaw’s curry lovers, but although they have outposts elsewhere, it’s the Koneser venture we love the most – a feast for the eye, 1,760 hang from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of the art. And the menu is equally noteworthy thanks to its non-standard approach: instead of the usuals, the focus is on Indian street bites given a five star reinvention.
Changes are also afoot at Koneser, and a sign of things to come has been the recent opening of Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favorite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year). Placed under the ‘coming soon’ banner, two further projects are set to be unveiled imminently –Six Seasons and Concept Food & Wine. We’ll be back to report on those the second that they open.
Of Koneser’s other mainstays, look to Orzo, an energetic, casual dining concept with ace cocktails and a jungle of air-purifying plants – the menu of burgers, pizzas and pastas is right for the mood. Then, there’s Azia, an ambitious and beautiful looking venue with Japanese, Chinese and Thai influ ences all on their menu.
Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete
You can’t knock Browary’s ambition. More than just an entertainment hub, it feels more like a city within a city. Skillfully planned and deftly executed, you could survive here for a year and never feel bored. Moreover, there’s the underpinning mood: chic and affluent but equally easygoing. For that, it can’t be beat as meeting spot.
dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.
Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centerpiece of Browary contrasts well against War saw’s other offers. Occupying a
beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for atten tion. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Le wandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment hangout.
Warsaw’s first ‘woonerf’ has turned what could have been an ordinary, boring road into a living organism on which people and cyclists flow as one with the passing traffic. Lined with photo graphic exhibition panels, these have included an in-depth look at the area’s relationship with Coca Cola. And then, half-way in, you have one of the capital’s finest staircases – turned into a canvas, its steps have been used to create the city’s first ‘stair mural’.
When it comes to the individual projects found in Warsaw’s hubs and halls, their solo success and impact can be easily measured – would you visit them if they were located somewhere else? Like, for example, the middle of nowhere. In the case of Browar Warszawski, the answer is a resounding yes.
Presenting a thousand different faces, this multi-floored venue has a strong post-industrial aesthetic, but this is softened by a proliferation of details such as flourishes of vintage, lavishly upholstered seats and plenty of gleaming beer tanks. Available in 18 or so styles, the house beers are excellent and understandable and do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s craft direction.
But Browar’s real talent lies in its adaptability, and this flexibility isn’t just under scored by the interesting cocktails and top-range spirits, but also a wide-ranging menu skillfully put together by chef Dmitrij Babak. This Jack-of-all-trades is a master of them all. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2
Built as a market hall during Tsa rist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish box ing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty authentici ty and a lingering sense of history.
There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a farmers’ market whose gems include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers cov ering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without an expertly poured Guinness from The Shamrock, craft beer from San Escobar or Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Niewinność.
Gwardii’s non-standard events have aided their mission to appeal to all: over the last year alone, that’s meant zero waste markets, boxing galas, dog fairs, poster sales, TEDx talks, ping pong tournaments, craft beer fests and a slew of national culinary days. Attracting young and old from all imaginable back grounds and income brackets, these events have helped under score Gwardii’s democratic nature: all are welcome, and all have some reason to visit.
The lockdown was a make or break time for many in the F&B industry, but Gwardii seemed to emerge from the wreckage all the more stronger – at the peak of Covid, their market provided a glimpse of normalcy during paranoid times and acted to hold the com munity together. This feeling has continued. Unin tentionally perhaps, the symbiotic relationship that it enjoys with the vastly contrasting Hala Mirowska next door has helped this – managing to harmonious ly co-exist, these two entities feed off each other
Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrap nel holes still dent the building at intervals), it later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Deactivat ed in 2001, the vacated buildings briefly became the home of giant house martens and other mythical urban creatures, before being restored and relaunched in 2020. As smart as its new look is, you’re always touching distance from history.
Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.
Elektrownia’s blended ap proach deserves to be called out. This includes an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions – that Anna Lewandowska has been tagged here should speak for its pedigree. On the retail front, EP tends to avoid the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent. Watch, too, for their regular organic markets and ‘slow’ design fairs.
Everyone agrees, Elektrownia Powiśle is a breathtaking work. From the outside, it’s a dazzle of billiard green lawns and spurting water fountains, all hemmed in by smart redbrick buildings trimmed with steel and glass. But inside is where it really gets going – cavernous in its size, and criss-crossed with vertiginous walkways snaking overhead, it carries the dimensions and impact of a Romanesque cathedral. Historic leftovers abound (such as the blue cubbyhole once used by the plant’s director), as do whimsical pieces of art made from rescued girders. Ingenious ly connecting the past with the present, exploring its many corners is fun in itself.
Built between 1906 and 1908, from the outset Koszyki was designed to serve as a market hall. Nationalized after WWII, by the 1960s it was attracting over 3,000 shoppers per day. By the millennium, though, business had slowed with shoppers favoring new generation supermarkets over the grubby old school style offered by Koszyki. Acquired by Griffin Real Estate in 2012, it was under their watch that the main hall was rebuilt and the art nouveau wings restored. Original plans foresaw a retail project tak ing root, but this was abandoned in favor of what we see now. Rev olutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline.
Koszyki’s food hall checks all the boxes when it comes to comfort food; for burritos, you can’t go wrong ordering from the fist-bumping lads at Gringo, while for craft beer and grilled sausag es then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong. The biggest lines, though, they’re usually reserved
for Soul Food Burgers. But there’s more to Koszyki than just its food hall; for fancy modern Polish food in arty surrounds then Warszawski Sen is a winner. More often than not though, you’ll find us either propping up the Central Bar, sipping cocktails in The Upper Deck, or putting the finishing touches to a night out in the open-all-hours ĆMA
Koszyki have a hard-earned reputation for higher brow events such as classical recitals and author meet and greets. How
Opened in 2016, Hala Koszyki was the first of the hubs to launch and blazed the trail for others to follow. Considered the grande dame of all, this reputation can be credited to more than just her age. To this day Koszyki remains a pioneer and often the default choice when planning a city cen ter meet-up. Why? It’s vibe and central location are second-to-none. Where the former is concerned, the outdoor plaza remains one of Warsaw’s favorite summer check-ins while in other months the spectacular wrought iron interiors always have a buzz.
ever, not all of their attractions are quite so traditional – now running until the end of the year due to popular demand, head to the mezzanine to view a VR film about the Warsaw Uprising.
Feeling essential to the lifeblood of their neighborhoods, and exerting an influence that stretches beyond their area’s natural borders, join us for a condensed look at some of the stars and legends found spread around the city. Slashed to ribbons due to issues relating to space and page count, the ensuing rundown represents just a skeletal list of the Insider’s favorites – for a more comprehensive view of Warsaw’s local heroes, check into our website for a fuller roll-call of champions!
Focusing each month on a differ ent region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. Wiślana 8
The freelancers and people watchers that gather here do so to bask amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Tamka 33
Styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings both branches are high on gloss and polish yet also feel casual and welcoming. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adri atic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames. ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60
Once located in a seedy looking pa vilion on a parade of peep shows and repair stores, Pho 206’s new surround ings befit this cult venue. Sparingly decorated with poster art and colorful Tolix chairs, swing by for some of the most authentic Vietnamese food in the capital. Ogrodowa 37
Themed on Día de Muertos, the simple design makes use of copious floral additions and jaunty skull dec orations based on José Guadalupe Posada’s prints of La Calavera Catrina. The work of Isabel Balderas, her food has even come endorsed by Juan Sandoval, Mexico’s Ambassador to Poland. ul. Radna 14
Decorated with gleaming golds and rich shades of for est green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. Adjusting to the slick and shine, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. The latter reimagines German food in tapas format and pairs it with outstanding wines from Franconia. Grzybowska 43A
Divide Hałas into two sections: first, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Then, at the back, discover a Nordic-style living room ar rangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty. Elsterska 10
What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit down space – the grassy back garden is a true summer pleasure. The huge bowls of pho are a wise order to make, though our standard has become the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce. Królowej Aldony 5/2
Some know Praga as being ‘rough and ready’, others as the home for its alter native, artsy side. These worlds collide in Oprach W Absurdu; in daytime, it’s a place where dusty antiques are bathed in moody half-light. At night, it disap pears in a blurry mix of vodka, music and shouted babble. Ząbkowska 6
PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget in cost and appearance, it’s one of Warsaw’s worst-kept secrets with several of Po land’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. It’s a ramshackle ambassador for the real face of Praga. Brzeska 29/31
To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the greatest informal restaurants that War saw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks. Walecznych 64
Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere. 11 Listopada 22
KLONN
Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the park land setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavors are exceptional. Jazdów 1B
Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn. This pas sion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale. Hoża 58/60
ALE WINO A triumph of expertly balanced tastes the menu has some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. In summer, the shaded courtyard terrace is a hit, while in winter the labyrin thine layout is great for dinner enjoyed with copious amounts of wine. Mokotowska 48
You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steel-framed irrigational contraptions. Wilcza 9A
The name comes from the 1,116 wineglass es that hang tantalizingly over the bar, while other elements of note include a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The by-the-glass wine offer is thoughtful and the Euro-Polish menu grows from strengthto-strength. Upscale casual doesn’t get better. Próżna 12
Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the vegan menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers. Nowogrodzka 10
of Warsaw's neighborhoods
Launched in 2007, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a ground breaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – for the city’s coffee afficionados this is a place of pilgrimage. Niemcewicza 3
For Middle Eastern tastes with a vegan spin then Ochota holds a real treasure to discover. Specializing in mezze plates, pide breads and bowls of shakshuka, Shuk realigns your mojo in a way few places can. Something of a veteran, their consistency and longevi ty is to be admired. Grójecka 127
The retro-American interiors are an unexpected surprise given the PRL date of the pavilion it’s housed in, but it looks good: familiar and comfort ing. The same is said of a menu that features burg ers tailored with love and fantastic hot dog meals. Pruszkowska 5
Housed inside an inter-war villa, the vibe at this bar never falls south of being blisteringly fun. In summer, the back garden is a luscious enclave to re treat to, but at other times the interiors are a joy of Boho cool with the shadowy retro look encouraging wild weekend parties. Belwederska 44A
The small menu of inventive bites is designed to be twinned with their comprehensive portfolio of niche, in-the-know wines. Mokotów has long yearned for an atmospheric place like this, and Kontakt does not disappoint when it comes to eye-opening pairings that always succeed in hitting the mark. Sandomierska 13
Eschewing a sense of retro-shabby funky cool, they don’t come more legendary than Regeneracja. A wacky clash of eclectic colors and characters, this bar unites the area’s disparate incomes and ages to serve as a force for good – that’s especially true at night when evenings become seriously animated. Puławska 61
Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about this atmospheric spe cialty coffee cafe that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to max imum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though in sunnier seasons head to the magical little garden to the side. Schroegera 80
Sporting decorative ceramics, colorful hexagonal floor tiles and soothing white finishes, chilling out becomes even easier over a Spanish bio wine. The eco-minded menu is a joy and contains Huevos Rancheros from early, and BBQ tofu burgers with bourbon later. Wilsona 4
Walking through a cool courtyard decorated with palms and overhead lightbulbs, one enters to discov er a surprisingly large and spacious venue splashed out in jungle green colors. There’s some superb Asian-themed cocktails to enjoy but it’s the cooking of Surat Butsarakham that will live longest in the memory. Rydygiera 9
FORT 8
Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów intersect, this former 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. The Italian Dziur ka od Klucza is a fave though points also go to the wines of Łaskawość Tytusa and posh desserts of Deseo. Fort Służew 1B
Looking more modern-minded than many of Warsaw’s depressingly faded and generic Indian restaurants, Veda’s biggest lure is a menu that some hail to be every bit as good (and even better) as anything found in the city center. The butter prawns are a delight. Przyczółkowa 223
Providing competition for the long-established Beer Store, this venue brings a diverse range of beers to the fore courtesy of its 17 taps of craft and abundant fridge space. Dealing also in boutique tinctures, and not short on artisanal snacks to go with your drink, this dark, atmo spheric spot answers local needs well. Rzeczypospolitej 4
5 years of community building 5 years of respecting history 5 years of helping 5 years of successful partnership with City Hall
Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl
The latest exhibition at Dom Spotkań z Historią looks back at the striking imag es of photographer Chris Niedenthal…
His December 1981 photograph of an armored personnel carrier standing in front of Warsaw’s now non-existent Moscow cine ma with a banner advertising Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 film Apocalypse Now became one of the iconic images of Poland’s Martial Law period. The rest of his oeuvre is no less significant, either; after all, Chris Niedenthal always did his best to be on the frontline.
Along with British journalist, Michael Dobbs, Niedenthal was the first foreign photojour nalist to be let in to the Gdańsk Shipyard during the 1980 strikes. His work, documenting the situation in Poland in the last quarter of the 20th century, earned him international rec ognition. To celebrate 50 years of his remarkable career, Dom Spotkań z Historią has orga nized a retrospective exhibition of his work.
“The biggest challenge was choosing over 200 stills from an archive of hundreds of thou sands of photographs,” say the organizers. “We were tempted to elicit surprise, do something that has not been done before. However, our idea to showcase an overview of Niedenthal’s work, covering the past 50 years, is already something that nobody has yet done.”
Chris Niedenthal was born in 1950 to Polish parents who had emigrated to London. He received his first camera, a Ko dak Starmite, aged 11 – a gift for excellent exam results. While at university, at the London College of Printing, the already experi enced photographer had a clear vision: he wanted to document,
not create, the new reality.
“I was interested in print and photojournalism,” says Nieden thal. “I couldn’t get it out of my head. At university we had pro motional photography, portrai ture, but I always did everything in a photojournalistic style.”
At 23-years-old Niedenthal arrived in Poland. He planned to stay for a few months but ended up relocating. Early work includ ed working as a freelance press photographer and between 1974 and 1978 Niedenthal’s
work appeared in German magazine titles such as the weekly Stern and monthly Geo, as well as the Swedish daily Expressen.
Though he was often eager to be in the thick of things, doc umenting historic occasions or important figures, his primary interest, as both curators point out, was the daily life of uniden tified individuals.
“He trekked through Poland with a camera and photo graphed what he saw – events,
Ongoing until April 7th, Dom Spotkań z Historią (Karowa 20), dsh.waw.pl
Ongoing until April 7th, Dom Spotkań z Historią (Karowa 20), dsh.waw.pl
which to us appear typical, yet, in which he noticed something extraordinary. (…) His identity, as a foreign correspondent, allowed him to take photos that many were not permitted to take,” they explain.
which to us appear typical, yet, in which he noticed something extraordinary. (…) His identity, as a foreign correspondent, allowed him to take photos that many were not permitted to take,” they explain.
The exhibit at DSH features such lesser-known works, alongside Niedenthal’s icon ic images. The photography displays are complimented by personal memorabilia, original issues of Time magazine, as well as various cameras used by the photographer – all of which serve to enrich the viewing experience and give a better insight into the language of photography.
The exhibit at DSH features such lesser-known works, alongside Niedenthal’s icon ic images. The photography displays are complimented by personal memorabilia, original issues of Time magazine, as well as various cameras used by the photographer – all of which serve to enrich the viewing experience and give a better insight into the language of photography.
The Museum of Warsaw explores the decade on which modern Poland was built…
Locked for nearly half a century behind an Iron Curtain, Poland’s political transfor mation plunged the country head first into a bewil dering world of capitalism, con trast, chaos and color. Marked by its sense of unrestrained adventure, the Museum of War saw’s latest exhibition recalls in vivid detail the intrigues and the
mayhem of the 1990s.
Titled Gloss, Matte, Color, the exhibition’s name is taken from the question that snappers would invariably face when taking their camera roll to be de veloped. This alone was some thing of a novelty – for decades, black-and-white had dominated and this shift to color could itself be interpreted to serve as a metaphor for the capital’s own
abrupt (r)evolution.
At a stroke, the monochro matic gloom of Warsaw found itself lifted, replaced instead by a world of risk and opportunity. Separated into different themes, the collection’s 1,000 photo graphs chart varying chapters of the city’s story to offer a textured, warts and all retro spective of the good, the bad and the ugly.
The poverty experienced by those on the fringes of society is laid bare by jarring images of addicts, alcoholics, vagrants and the forgotten. We are introduced, also, to a time of protest with images of striking miners, rioting students and rallying women all prominently displayed.
There is excitement, as well – boldly venturing into the com mercial world, we are reminded just how much of Warsaw be came an open-air market; and amid the sea of billboards and tacky stalls, we see how the first modern towers arose from scratch. Shot by some of the leading photographers of the era (including Chris Niedenthal, Tadeusz Rolke and Edward Hartwig), these are photo graphs that take you deep into the city’s schizophrenic mind.
Working on different levels, neither is there any shortage of ‘remember that’ moments – Michael Jackson is pictured walking on Pl. Konstytucji, Queen Elizabeth II is shown submerged under crowds in the Old Town, and Pope John Paul II is depicted travelling down Ząbkowska in his popemobile. It is, however, the anonymous portraits of the everyman that are the most provocative.
A period of garish, gaudy greed there are simultane ously several moments that elicit amusement, not least the photos that feature Cricoland, a tawdry theme park that stood on Pl. Defilad. Featuring also several amateur contributions, it’s an exhibition that dives into the decade and brings it vividly back to life in all of its vibrant hues.
Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Pro gramme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bsw.com.pl to organise a visit, ul. Hlonda 12, bsw.com.pl
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative pro gram (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
(multiple locations)
Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montes sori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary educa tion. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,
Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are high ly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@
theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
An intimate, interna tional, English-speak ing preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristepping stones.pl
children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
Treating
Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-oper ation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl
guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl
Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, oper ating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting
Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that imple ments the International Baccalaure ate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers
Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montes sori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibil ity for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
Offering year-round discounts rang ing from 30-70%, discover over 130 designer brands within a stunning complex designed to effect the look of Warsaw’s Baroque historic center. Labels include Lacoste, Boss, Made in M (with MaxMara, Marella, Max&Co. and Pennyblack), Karl Lagerfeld and Twinset. ul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), designeroutletwarszawa.pl
Warsaw’s original luxury shopping
center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl
One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9,
likusconceptstore.pl
Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl
Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curi osities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the
story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl
Playing a key role in the govern ment’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading
artisans of the time. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
If the throngs and sheer information al overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a lifesize replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…
A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit.
In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception .
Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act.
Body & Mind massage by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA
ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24 Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace + 48 798 665 254 www.lomilomi.waw.pl
MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL FEAST FOR THE SPIRIT.
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Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl
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Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrownia powisle.com 3
Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4
Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5
Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6
Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7
Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
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Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
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Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl
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Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia
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Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
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Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
5 Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Facto ry), neonmuzeum.org
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Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl
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POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
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National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl
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The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3
Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
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Something of a cult collector’s item, the illustrated architectural atlases of Centrum Architektury have become essential reading matter for those obsessed with the story of Warsaw. Written in Polish and English languages, and accom panied by beautiful graphic
sketches to go with each presented landmark, these pint-sized hardback guides zone in on different districts of the capital and have, thus far, include Żoliborz, Mokotów, Ochota, Powiśle, Saska Kępa, Praga and a few others we’ve probably overlooked.
Now, one more has been added to their portfolio: MUR. Placing Muranów under the microscope, their latest addi tion to the stable brings you the story behind 62 buildings to be found in the area – some ugly, some exquisite, all intriguing. A worthy addition to any bookshelf, order a copy via their website (centrumar chitektury.org) for the reduced price of PLN 45, or pick it up at full price (PLN 55) from bookstores such as Bęc Zmi ana on Mokotowska 65.
Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.
ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl
