Warsaw Insider October 2019 #278

Kamionek In Neon Exploring The Pavilions Travel: Autumn Escapes The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

OCTOBER 2019

278 10/2019

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Snooping Saska

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON PARIS ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial FEATURES

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 Star of Saska Points of interest 10 Saska Sustenance Food and drink in Saska Kępa 12 Park Skaryszewski Exploring the lungs of right bank Warsaw 16 Neon Museum Kamionek's shining light 18 Kamionek Sights and sounds of an unsung district

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com

23 Review:

DRINK! 59 Review:

Yestersen 60 Top 5 Cozy cafes for autumn 60 In Depth Pavilion bars

DO!

79 Travel:

Autumn breaks 82 Exhibition: Gydnia-Tel Aviv at POLIN 84 Exhibition: Disco Relaks 86 Museums 90 Essentials 102 Map 104 Halloween Warsaw's most haunted

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f course, summer has its moments, but its hard to top Warsaw in the full throes of Autumn. Bursting into a vivid riot of sketchbook colors, it’s then that the city dances to a palette of russet and tan, caramel and carrot. Delicious on the eye and warming to the soul, it’s a life affirming time of impossible sunsets and soft morning mist. The bad news? It last for about two weeks before accelerating straight into gloom. The message, therefore, is enjoy it while you can. That’s why, as the city retreats inwards from its summer by the Wisła, we’ve taken the chance to explore Warsaw’s left bank – from the quiet streets of Saska to gritty Kamionek. Beyond that, we celebrate the life of the legendary pavilion bars, round-up some creepy Warsaw stories for Halloween and check out your options for a weekend break that you won’t want to end. As always, hope you enjoy it, and see you next month.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover Starring on our cover this issue, the outdoor brollies of Francuska 30 – without them, Saska wouldn’t feel the same. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

EAT!

Koreanka Grill 24 Review: Przyjemność 25 Top 5: Georgian cuisine

OCTOBER 2019

CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyzy 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

ATRIUM PROMENADA

– a great place to shop, meet and spend time together Atrium Promenada offers a diverse fashion selection, providing a unique combination of brands in all-new flagship stores. Most of the fashion destinations are located in the Fountain Alley. And don’t miss the Republic of Flavors, an F&B area with a great ambience and many popular food concepts. A place of inspiration, shopaholics will find plenty to keep them here before returning to the shops freshly re-energized.

Rich fashion offer

The unique interiors of Atrium Promenada provide the perfect frame for the latest fashion collections on show. Internationally recognized brands include MASSIMO DUTTI, GUESS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, IMPERIAL, MARELLA, WEEKEND BY MAXMARA, ELISABETTA FRANCHI, PINKO, LIU JO, LUISA SPAGNOLI, TRUSSARDI, DENI CLER, MOLTON, LANORO and the first E-OBUWIE STORE in Warsaw. Lap them up in the stunning Fountain Alley.

Jewelery and cosmetics

In Atrium Promenada find almost thirty jewelry and cosmetics destinations. APART, PANDORA, SWAROVSKI, W.KRUK, TOUS, MAC, DOUGLAS, SEPHORA, KIEHL’S, L’OCCITANE are all ideal places in which to find perfect gifts for someone special (including yourself!).

Cafes and restaurants In Atrium Promenada cafes and restaurants are spread across the center. Among them are SPHINX, SUBWAY, COSTA COFFEE, KARMELLO, CARTE D’OR as well as a unique culinary concept by CARREFOUR called ISLAND OF FLAVOURS. Whether you’re after sushi, Italian, coffee or desserts, you won’t be disappointed.

Sport Atrium Promenada is also aimed at sports fans with a wide selection of sporting brands found in the two-level GO SPORT, as well as outlets of SIZEER, 4F, NEW BALANCE and TIMBERLAND.

Republic of Flavors Republic of Flavors offers a choice of cuisines from across the world, all of which have been carefully selected so as to perfectly complement each other. The Atrium Promenada food court area brings together a variety of food outlets such as SALAD STORY, BON APETITO, KLOOSKI BISTRO BAR, THAI WOK, BERLIN DÖNER KEBAP, NORTH FISH, MCDONALD'S, BURGER KING, PIZZA HUT EXPRESS, KFC, and STARBUCKS. With a vibe that brings to mind the bistros of Paris and the café scene of New York, it’s a fabulous place in which to chill out.

Leisure time

Bathed in natural light, Atrium Promenada invites visitors to take a leisurely stroll across marble floors that lead past high-end brand names, or to take a breath in intimate leisure zones near the majestic main fountain.

Brought to you by

Address: ul. Ostrobramska 75c Tel: +48 22 611 39 52 www.warszawa.promenada.com @AtriumPromenada @atrium_promenada

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STARS OF SASKA Incorporated into Warsaw in 1916, to this day leafy Saska Kępa maintains the spirit of an independent entity somewhat separate from the city around it. Architecturally unique, artistically minded and altogether more chilled, exploring its quiet side streets is one of Warsaw’s great autumn pleasures…

C H U R C H O F S T. A N D R E W O F B O B O L A

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PICASSO REPRODUCTION AT O B R O N C Ó W 2 8 / 3 0

•It is the architecture of Saska that captivates those who visit. Mainly, that means the modernist style of the inter-war years with standouts including the spirally stairwell at the back of Francuska 2 and the pearl at Obrońcow 10 crowned with a round skylight on its rooftop terrace. But that’s the beginning – then you’ve got Katowicka 7A, designed by Bohdan Lachert (creator of the post-war Muranów housing estate), as well the architect’s own former family home next door and the curious-looking ivy clad villa that stands across at No. 10.

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•More than modernism alone, the patchwork nature of SK is interspersed with gems and oddities: a castle-style tower at Bajońska 6; the beautiful brickwork patterns on the school at Zwycięczów 7/9 and even the commie era tower at Waszyngtona 2B – hailed as an architectural glory of the 60s, it was originally clad entirely in glass, with the wheel on the top added as a reference to the time when Saska was home to an early 20th century fairground. And don’t miss Kolonia Łaskiego, a horseshoe shaped collection of neo-classical houses that were built from the rubble of the giant, Tsaristwarsawinsider.pl

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era Nevsky Cathedral that was dynamited following Poland’s independence. Find them on Dąbrowiecka, Obrońcow and Katowicka. •Unveiled in 1947, the Plon (Yield) sculpture was designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewcz, one of the most influential Polish sculptors of the 20th century. Initially, it was added to the bottom of Katowicka street as part of a communist plan to transform the character of Saska by filling it with sculptures and public art. Allowed to decay in the decades that followed, today it positively sparkles in the sun after being restored in 2011. Peer through the mesh fence at Obronców 28/30 to spot the sculptures of local artist Mateusz Sikora. That’s not the sole artistic association the property has. A plaque, unveiled by the Spanish royal family in 1989, commemorates Picasso’s fleeting residence here in 1949 – back when this was HQ of the Warsaw Artists Association. A more recent addition has been a copy of the mermaid that Picasso famously scribbled inside the wall of a Warsaw apartment in ’48 – unbelievably, the original was painted over by the couple that lived there after they’d had enough of gawkers knocking on their door!

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Taking a shimmery golden glow come the sunset hour, the Church of St. Andrew of Bobola impresses with blingy interiors inspired by the sacral art of the medieval years. Construction of the church began in 1938 and finished a little behind schedule in 1956. Plaques inside recall the Polish soldiers who fell in the area during WWII. •The wooden chalet on Walecznych 37 is the oldest house in the district – a surviving relic from when Saska was an independent village. Thought to date from 1880, it was originally built to serve as a home for a Dutch family called Neuman. Though listed as a protected building, the presence of satellite dishes and billboard ads dampen its charm. •To be a local, lay flowers for Agnieszka Osiecka! The author of 2,000 songs and an equally prolific playwright and poet, this local heroine is celebrated by a life-sized statue that sits (literally) on Francuska 11. An icon of Poland’s post-war cultural circle, she was briefly married to Wojciech Frykowki, a playboy actor who was later murdered by Manson’s cronies in the Helter Skelter killings. Osiecka spent much of her time in Saska, and her former home on Dąbrowiecka 25 is marked by a plaque.

P LO N ( Y I E L D ) S C U L P T U R E

AG N I E S Z K A O S I E C K A

K AT O W I C K A 1 0

OBROĹ&#x192;COW 10

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MIĘSNY

FRANCUSKA 30

Saska Sustenance

Saska Kępa’s diverse food and drink scene is reflected by the richness of its offer. The Insider picks out the ones you truly need to know…

Bao Bar ul. Zwycięzców 13 Casual and compact, this neighborhood joint ties itself to Warsaw’s fondness of bao, the pillowy Asian bun that’s conquered the world. Satisfy your cravings for this delicacy by ordering from a street food inspired menu where sample sandwiches include those cascading with duck, pickled radish, hoisin and celery. As for the fries, these are not fries alone – complimented with Korean-style beef, popcorn (!), coriander and sriracha mayo, they’re an education in the pleasures of K-food. Biała ul. Francuska 2 Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer

thanks to an attractive back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa – it’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. Autumn ain’t bad either, with sophisticated seasonal cocktails attracting a glam crowd looking for pre-city center drinks. Eden ul. Jakubowska 16 Set inside a masterpiece of modernist architectural design this townhouse feels intriguing and discreet, its crowning glory provided by an all-year greenhouse cluttered with herbs and pot plants. Inside, step into a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new

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wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. Efes ul. Francuska 1 Warsaw’s first kebab joint continues to attract chaotic lines of muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals looking to bite into the city’s top lavash. Away from the window hatch, the restaurant is worth a look as well – disorganized and occasionally disinterested service does nothing to ruin the enjoyment of the Iskender. Francuska 30 ul. Francuska 30 The brollies that dangle teasingly over the terrace

are one of Saska’s most photographed sights, but this café earns its visitors by providing ace coffee brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, as well as a range of French crepes and above-average cocktails. Cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic, it’s a café that feels central to the social function of Saska. Hałas Vinyl + Coffee ul. Elsterska 10 Filling a dual role as a hip vinyl store selling collectors classics, find specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement featuring crisp white walls and a cool retro look. The backstreet location keeps this a real insider secret.

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT TO RIGHT: KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF FRANCUSKA 30, NAT KONTRAKTEWICZ, KEVIN DEMARIA

V E GA N R A M E N

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49 Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film.

Mięsny ul. Walecznych 64 This butcher / deli / bistro is arguably the principal reason foodies visit Saska. Casual and intimate, you’re as likely to see local families as you are suited business diners or accidental tourists. They’re here to enjoy steaks of pure beauty, not to mention a selection of other meaty joys that range from burgers to bone marrow.

Lukullus ul. Walecznych 29Upmarket, flouncy desserts served in a narrow strip of a room that’s designed to strike a balance between casual and something special. Renouncing low-cost ingredients, this boutique café is a both a labor of love and a tribute to craftsmanship.

Mr. Greek Souvlaki ul. Walecznych 68A With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – though not yet formally open, several preview sittings have already taken place, with those lucky enough to snag a booking

left raving about the best Greek food that the city has ever seen! Spoco Loco ul. Francuska 8 It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with fear. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are ably supported by a choice of alternative sauces aimed at people who don’t view dining as an extreme sport. Strefa Komfortu ul. Francuska 14

Set behind a curvy glass frontage, this informal new venture gets plus points for sourcing a few craft beers from Poland’s alt. breweries as well as devising a vegan menu that includes meat-free burgers and – even – a plant-based British breakfast! Vegan Ramen Shop ul. Finlandzka 12A Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa, a fact that’s led to the opening of a new location in Mokotów. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. warsawinsider.pl

PARK IT UP

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The Insider explores the nooks and corners of Park Skaryszewski… Words Alex Webber Photography Kevin Demaria

orming a natural buffer between the districts of Saska Kępa and Kamionek sits Park Skaryszewski, or as some used to call it, Park Scary-szewski. How times have changed. Of course, whilst breeding couples and grazing drunks can still be occasionally spotted in the wild, its rehabilitation as one of the city’s favorite parks has long been in the making – a decade ago, a poll conducted by lawnmower kings Briggs & Stratton named it the country’s most beautiful park (and, would you believe, Europe’s third), and its beautification has since only gathered speed. Founded in 1905 on former marshland and meadows, its design fell to Franciszek Szanior, a horticulturist best-known for his work on Warsaw’s Ujazadowski Park as well as Saski and Krasińskich Gardens. Apocryphal it might be, but some claim that orders for the establishment of Skaryszewski came directly from Tsar Nicholas II: Poniatowski Bridge (which was set to be named after him) could not open out onto muddy fields filled with cows. It would take Szanior nearly twenty years for his vision to be fully realized, but realized it was. Covering 58 hectares, his plans followed a simple of philosophy of “providing as much light as shade”, and as such its pristine lawns and placid lakes were paired with areas of woodland. To lend variation, artificial hills were added, and so too ponds with scenic islands, ribboning walkways and secluded little corners. As the 1920s rolled by, its glades and opens spaces found themselves generously sprinkled with contemporary sculpture, an act that served to amplify its popularity among lovebirds of the time. With gondolas and paddle boats gliding across the lake, it presented a picture of pastoral bliss. Though faced with decades of post-war decline, the park’s story has come full circle. But more than being simply now revered for its aesthetics, it has become installed as one of the city’s most user friendly parks – and this despite enigmatic edicts urging visitors against “demolishing the equipment” or “conducting business activity”. A place of many charms, its mere existence is Warsaw’s gain. >>>

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Points of Interest •Unveiled on the first anniversary of the 9/11 terrorist attacks, a black granite slab at the park’s entrance honors the six Poles known to have died in the World Trade Center as well as the “others unknown by name”. Within the park itself, further associations with the States can be found in the form of a statue of Edward House, an American diplomat that worked ceaselessly to guarantee Poland’s independence following WWI, and an oak planted in 1932 to celebrate the 200th birthday of George Washington. •A commemorative boulder remembers the British airmen shot down on August 13th, 1944, while dropping supplies to Polish insurgents partaking in the Warsaw Uprising. Hit by anti-aircraft fire, their Liberator crash landed on this spot with six of the seven-strong crew killed on impact. The sole survivor, Henry Lloyd Lyne, was present in 1988 when the memorial was unveiled by Margaret Thatcher. Since visited by Queen Elizabeth II, it is today the muster point for the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance Day service on November 11th. •Having successfully survived both a world war and a daring attempt to thieve it in 1998, Stanisław Jackowski’s scantily clad dancer became Skaryszewski’s first statue when it was unveiled in 1927 by the President of Warsaw, Zygmunt Słomiński. Weighing in at 235 kilos, the 165 centimeter bronze figure stands amid a prim rose garden that pulses with color. •Cast in 1928 by Olga Niewska, her figure of a lithe, nude bather was another artwork to survive a 1998 kidnap attempt. In their bid to tear the bronze monument from its pedestal, thieves had first sawed her ankles before trying to fell the monument with an axe. Work to

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"OF COURSE, WHILST BREEDING COUPLES AND GRAZING DRUNKS CAN STILL BE OCCASIONALLY SPOTTED IN THE WILD, ITS REHABILITATION AS ONE OF THE CITY’S FAVORITE PARKS HAS LONG BEEN IN THE MAKING restore the figure after the bungled heist lasted 20-months with ‘the bather’ finally returned to its rightful place in the year 2000. •Designed in 1937 by Janusz Alchimowicz – one of the coauthors of Warsaw’s art deco horseracing track – Skaryszewski’s concrete, cosmic-looking shrine scooped top prize in a competition held by the Institute of Art Propaganda before being whisked to Paris where it went on show at an international fair dedicated to ‘art and technology’. On its return to Poland, it found a new function during the war when members of the Polish underground hid their mes

sages inside it. Right up until the fall of Communism in 1989, it became tradition for Home Army veterans to gather by it to commemorate the anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising. Having first produced a prototype from ebony wood in 1922 – today on show in Warsaw’s National Museum – sculptor Henryk Kuna created two more sculptures titled Rhythm (after the art collective he was part of). One stands in Poznań’s National Museum, the other in Skaryszewski. Made from brass, closer inspection reveals nicks and scars from bullets thought to date from the opening days of the Warsaw Uprising. •Measuring 150-meters at its widest, the eight hectare Kamionkowskie Lake was once a natural part of the Wisła until a dike was built at the beginning of the 20th century. Populated with bream and carp (the crayfish disappeared in the 80s), its inky waters have at times revealed other surprises: for instance, in 2015, the fuel tank of an RAF plane downed during the war. But whilst this is the most notable stretch of water found within the boundaries of the park, plenty of others exist, among them a tinkling waterfall and a winding canal capped overhead by humpbacked footbridges. All are popular for canoodling sunset moments. •Ask anyone for the way to the football and they’ll doubtlessly direct you to the National Stadium to the right of the park. But, unbeknownst to even many locals, a second, more modest theater of dreams stands on the park’s north eastern border. Home to Drukarz, a sports club founded in the 20s by those working in the local printing house, the atmosphere at games is the sporting equivalent of a dose of valium but that hasn’t stopped regulars nicknaming the stadium Wembley. It’s a must for groundhoppers, while the restored ‘concert shell’ nearby is another such unexpected curiosity that suddenly appears from the woodland. warsawinsider.pl

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See The Light!

Seven years after first opening its doors, the internationally acclaimed Neon Muzeum has emerged to become one of Warsaw’s most celebrated attractions and a cornerstone of the suburb of Kamionek... PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

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hen the switch was flicked on Warsaw’s first neon in 1926, few could have predicted that the city’s love affair with this groovy form of marketing would endure well into the following century – especially given its near total disappearance by the turn of the millennium. Its resurgence, however, has been strong, and for this much credit goes to Warsaw’s most colorful attraction, the Neon Muzeum in the depths of Kamionek. The result of one British-Polish couple’s obsession, its launch in 2012 helped spark a remarkable renaissance that has shown no sign of slowing. “At first, myself and my partner, Ilona Karwinska, thought we were documenting the end of Polish neon,” says David Hill, co-founder of the museum, “but from quite early on we both realized we had happened upon something quite important.” With a background rooted in typography, Hill’s first visit to Warsaw in 2005 left him awe-struck by the few neon signs that lingered and glimmered in the Polish capital. With Karwinska, a London-based fine arts photographer, seeking a new project to embrace, the couple experienced a lightbulb moment and decided on traveling the country to record all the surviving neons that they could locate. A book followed and was swiftly greeted by a reaction that Hill describes as “extraordinary”. Receiving a flood of tips on where to find more, the pair found themselves elevated from observers to actively engaging in the preservation of neon. “Shopkeepers were calling us to see if we wanted their old signs,” he remembers. “At times, it was like something from Indiana Jones, with both of us looking into old attics and garages to recover signs that many people suspected had been lost forever.” The sign that once decorated Kino Praha, for instance, was donated by a farmer who had been part of the team that had first removed it. Though left to languish in a field in the years that had followed, its manure covered form was gratefully received before being restored and rehoused in the couple’s growing collection. With the signs massing up, opening a museum was the next natural step.

Taking shape inside a dark, echoey space in the Soho Factory, its opening coincided with both the city’s ‘hipster revolution’ and the rise of mediums such as Instagram. Lauded in publications such as Wallpaper*, Vogue, Tatler and Time, it caught the spirit of the time and in the process became an A-Class attraction appealing to nostalgists and millennials in equal measure. “People want to see beautiful things,” says David, “and with today’s generation being so visually minded it’s little surprise that we’ve witnessed such a neon revival.” Though the presence of neon predates WWII, it was another war that saw it peak in popularity: the Cold War. Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Often supremely creative, these stunning illuminations were to become intrinsic features of Poland’s nightscape for decades, only waning in favor after the political transformation of 1989. With raw, untrammeled capitalism the order of the day, they were seen as unfashionable reminders of a bygone time and phased out by billboards and other blunter forms of advertising – that is, at least, until Hill and Karwinska entered the picture. Inspiring an entirely new wave of fans, many of whom weren’t even alive during Communism, the public clamor generated by the museum set off a chain reaction among independent business owners eager to signpost their establishments with their own signature retro-style neon. An artform that had looked dangerously close to being extinguished was rescued from the brink. As for the museum itself, that continues to figure prominently on the itineraries of tourists. Drawing approximately five-thousand visitors per month, it’s firmly installed as by far the hippest cultural institution in town, a place in which the past comes alive in a captivating sea of soft, sensual lights. Missing it is impossible. Neon Muzeum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org warsawinsider.pl

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Into Kamionek

Wedged between atmospheric old Praga and snooty Saska Kępa, Kamionek is more than the mundane no-man’s land that many seem to think…

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Said to be Warsaw’s first post-war theater, Powszechny (powszechny.com) started performing on Al. Zieleniecka on February 10th, 1945, just weeks after the last Germans had pulled out of the city. Occupying a brutal building constructed in the 70s, it’s seen some of the greatest names in Polish arts pass through the doors: among them, director Andrzej Wajda and actress Krystyna Janda. Never afraid to court controversy, the boundary-pushing repertoire of this acclaimed theater has confronted issues such as pedophilia in the church, the refugee crisis and the resurgence of fascism.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAGDA HUECKEL

Getting Deeper…

Take Center Stage

M E F I S T O AT P O W S Z E C H N Y

National Stadium

What can half a billion euros buy? In Poland’s case, a National Stadium to be proud of. Completed in the nick of time for Euro 2012, and constructed using enough steel for 64 jumbo jets, the red-and-white basked-shaped arena was built to hold 58,000 – and yes, sellouts have been frequent. Football aside, crowds have enjoyed performances by Madonna, McCartney and The Rolling Stones, not to mention a jubilantly received Top Gear Live show. Not all evenings have been quite so glorious, however, and England fans will shudder at the memory of the complete farce that saw their meeting with Poland cancelled after a

torrential downpour – yep, some bozo forgot to close the state-of-art retractable roof. Blips aside, it’s proved a triumph of engineering and its full versatility demonstrated by its hosting of ice skating, speedway and even windsurfing events.

Don’t Forget Me!

It’s hard to believe the stadium stands on the site of Stadion Dziesięciolecia, a communist era bowl-shaped arena built on top of a vast volume of war rubble. It was here Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze to protest the Soviet invasion of the Czechoslovakia in 1968, and it was also to here that 100,000 people converged to listen to a 1983 mass warsawinsider.pl

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conducted by Pope John Paul II. When communism fell, it served as the home of the Jarmark Europa, a notorious open-air market that became a center of piracy and vice. Guns, counterfeit goods, dodgy fashion, and electrical appliances that went BOOM – the place had it all! Swept away to make way for the new stadium, the only reminder of the old days comes via the Socialist Realist statue outside depicting three relay racers.

Out Of Print

Once home to an automotive plant rolling out Sokoł motorcycles, Polish Fiats and military vehicles, the carbuncle at Mińska 65 was rebuilt after the war and, in the decades that followed, functioned as a printing house whose clients included numerous Western nations. In the spirit of the Cold War, features allegedly numbered an atomic shelter. Though the printing presses haven’t seen action since 2012, the building maintains an important cultural function thanks to the presence of venues such as Drukarnia and Fugazi. The basement, meanwhile, houses one of Warsaw’s best-loved vintage furniture stores.

R E L AY R U N N E R S AT T H E N AT I O N A L S TA D I U M

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"SUCH IS THE BROODING INTENSITY OF THE MURAL THAT MANY MOTORISTS HAVE BLAMED IT FOR CAUSING THEM TO BRAKE SHARPLY. Snakes Alive!

There’s no shortage of murals on this side of the water, but Bird & Snake stands out as something special. Found on Bliska 23, it took one day for the Chinese artist DALeast to paint this oddly unsettling work. Composed of several thousand tangled strands, these brittle-looking wires meld together to form the image of a bird balanced on a poised cobra. Such is the dark intensity of the mural that many motorists have blamed it for causing them to brake sharply.

Trove Of Treasure

There’s a few zillion places in Warsaw specializing in all things vintage, but some out-punch

the others. For the undisputed heavyweight champion, make haste to Antykwariat Grochowski (agrochowski.pl), a maze-like space with over 130,000 books stuffed on the shelves. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Browsing here is an addictive pursuit that plunges visitors into a trancelike state as they finger and thumb the gems on display.

Sweet Dreams

The Polish equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory? That’s E. Wedel on Zamoyskiego 27. Though only open to the public for one-off events, the factory is one of the calling cards of Kamionek and is worth loitering around just to enjoy the chocolatey aroma that wafts around it. Having moved chocolate production here in 1930, it’s said to have been the first Warsaw factory to resume production after the interruption posed by the Warsaw Uprising. In fact, as early as November 1944, an 80-kilo consignment of caramels were dispatched from the heavily damaged plant as a covert gift to the National Liberation Committee based in Lublin.

COBRA AND SNAKE MURAL

Komu Komu Connecting Culinary Cultures A fusion of Israeli, Arabian and Mexican cuisines, our food is full of aromatic spices and uses only the best meat found in Poland. And we’re not just about food, but people as well! Open to all, our home-like space even features a Finnish sauna! ul. Mińska 25 (pavilion 39), fb.com/komukomupraga

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eat!

BORN TO GRILL! PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

You could argue that no other person has influenced the direction of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Asian course more than restaurateur Yeunsu Lee. Already responsible for concepts such as Vietnamka and Koreanka, her latest operation builds on the success of the latter whilst introducing the joys of the Korean grill to the wider Warsaw public. Yes, other places have already succeeded in doing that, just perhaps not quite with the same panache. Inside the tight and rackety confines of this latest venture, expect a group-slanted affair in which diners go elbow-to-elbow to heap marinated bulgogi, rib-eye steak and Mangalica pork underneath overhead heaters that sizzle their order to personal preference. Complimented by bitsy starters and a regular menu featuring standards such as bibimbap and Korean-style noodles, everything looks and eats exactly as youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect: very well indeed. Koreanka Grill ul. Lwowska 17

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HAVE A SLICE DAY! Pizza gets the full Californian treatment in Przyjemność…

The Place

Tiny! Interior-wise, you’re looking at a raised communal table impossibly squashed between a counter on one side and limited seating on the other. It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before hunkering down and taking your position for the night. That done, and you’re faced with a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

The Food

Californian pizza is the order of the day which, for the uninitiated, sees Italian foundations (long ripened dough from Italian flour, DOP San Marzano tomatoes and Fior Di Latte mozzarella) pimped up with maverick toppings and unexpected additions. Thai-gerita, for instance, reimagines the traditional Margherita via the inclusion of Thai basil. But you’re simply not going to better the Gringo Chicken, a wondrous

creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. Frankly, it’s brilliant, and the tastes revved up by lashings of Sriracha and homemade mango and chipotle sauce. Surprising in its magnificence, it’s the most exciting development Warsaw’s pizza circle has had since the likes of Mąka i Woda first burst on the scene. And hold your horses a second – not only do they score well on the pizza front, the drinks aren’t shabby either – specializing in spritzers, you’ve got a choice of nine or so house specials to pick from. Is this a recommendation? Most certainly so.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE COURTESY OF RESTAURANTS

Przyjemność ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 (enter from ul. Skorupki), fb.com/pizzawarszawska

EAT! review

Top 5 List

HIGH FIVE FROM GEORGIA Fall in love with Georgia with the Insider’s fave five!

Chinkalnia

ul. Piękna 15 Looking a little more modern – sterile, dare we say it – than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkalnia’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homey quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. Despite the homespun nature of the food, Chinkalnia is but one piece of a far larger jigsaw: find them present in nine cities around Poland.

CHMELI SUNELI

Chmeli Suneli

ul. Wilcza 26 The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead. The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks.

CHINKALNIA

Leo’s Marani

ul. Marszałkowska 85 An ambitious newbie launched in July, Leo’s Marani mixes Georgian and Armenian flavors to present a menu that feels slightly more novel than the others: for example, refer to lamb chops marinated in coffee, cognac and pomegranate juice. Other success stories involve the Armenian-caught trout and huge shashlik sets for two. Not all reviews have been glowing, but there’s much to suggest that any inconsistencies stand to be ironed out over time. Early days yet, but most who visit end up promising to return.

Rioni

ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela) Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri.

LEO’S MARANI

Rusiko

Al. Ujazdowskie 22 To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 26 balkan 26 chinese 26 comfort & street food 26 desserts 28 fine dining 28 food halls & happenings 40 french 32 georgian 32 greek & turkish 32 hungarian 32 indian 32 indonesian 34 international 34 italian 40 japanese 41 jewish 43 korean 43 latin & spanish 44 mexican 45 middle eastern 45 pacific 46 polish 47 scandinavian 52 seafood 52 specialty food shops 52 steak houses 53 thai 54 ukrainian 56 vegan 57 vietnamese 56

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Gryzbowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com

balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It

feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down

FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS SEN is a place of many senses. An environment where food, drinks, music blend together as one. RESERVATIONS: t el. +48 883 025 025 reser vations@senwarsa w.pl W io ślarska 6 | 00- 411 War s a w

senwarsa w.pl |

/SEN warsa w |

/SEN_warsa w

n food, a c i r e m tr ue A s and vibes drink Brooklyn House is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous screens. You think burgers and steaks – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

Jana Pawła II 18 00-116 Warsaw Reservation: + 48 22 114 34 34

find us:

/Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar /BrooklynRestaurantandBar /@brooklyn_burgersnsteaks

EAT! Listings in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9 Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburgstyle hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22

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Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul. Mokotowska 52 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A

Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

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EAT! Listings Room the ideal address for expense account meetings. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere. com.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl

PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam. com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules

EAT! Listings from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

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Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7 Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71

hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that)

EAT! Listings and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

indonesian Gado Gado Previously known as Warung Jakarta, the menu here has a street food edge with secret magic recipes extending to Nasi Goreng and a lively chicken Rendeng. Accessible to all levels of income, it’s become one of the true unsung glories of ethnic Warsaw. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky

pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken

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EAT! Listings in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl Flaming & Co Seemingly inspired by a Long Island shoot for Hilfiger, Flaming has long been hailed as one of Warsaw’s summer heroes thanks to a picket-fenced garden with plentiful greenery and well-spaced tables. It works in other seasons as well though, with a cool and confidently affluent interior that sits well against a pan-European menu that offers outstanding continental breakfast options. (E6) ul. Chopina 5

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed by Gdańsk-based architect

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some oneoff: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope

when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to z. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. Full report soon. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl

We are delighted to welcome you to a new gastronomic point inspired by our travels to Paris, Berlin, Dubai, Istanbul and New York. Our restaurant offers its guests the most exciting culinary adventure in Warsaw with delicious Mediterranean cuisine pitted against the memorable flavors of Asia. In addition, we also serve the perfect steaks made just how you like them. We cordially invite you to visit our exquisite world of Mediterranean, Italian and Asian tastes. Al. Krakowsa 248, tel. 575 468 685 instagram.com/perarestauracja, facebook.com/perarestauracja

EAT! Listings Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9

cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248

Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s

Pizza Boyz Colors of lipstick pink and electric blue have you thinking you’ve walked into a packet of Skittles – if you don’t have a headache then you will in a second. A

Projekt 44 Warsaw’s credentials as a global city look all the stronger for places like Projekt 44, a chic-casual spot rooted at the bottom of Daniel Liebeskind’s landmark Złota 44 tower. Heavy on raw materials and moodily-adjusted lighting, the background goes well with a rounded menu offering a 360 view of international cuisine: vegan poke bowls; rib-eye steaks; and cocktails divided by the way they’re served with ice (that is, with a block of ice, ice cubes, crushed ice or nitro). People are excited, and deservedly so. Full report soon. (C4) ul. Złota 44

satirical comment on the modern world or a fascinating anthropological study of millennial culture? Whatever it is, Pizza Boyz is as in-yer-face as the name may suggest: order extreme pizzas with names like Coke Dope Cheezy Eazy (jalapeno plus Coca Cola BBQ sauce) or the Carolina Reaper, a pizza that boldly claims to the be the hottest on earth. The food isn’t great, but as daft as the concept is, people here have fun. Much against our will, we did as well. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

EAT! Listings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most

popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh,

contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself. So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists: the kind of dish you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was

The Amber Room specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts. Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants.

Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the dailychanging tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

EAT! Listings lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski to the fore, with the highly-rated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami

from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork

Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look

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EAT! Listings dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Huge in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, fatbuddha.pl Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya

liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24

EAT! Listings Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual

experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw.. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3

jewish Mazal Tov Operated by the same group behind Momu

and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub.

(D1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a

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(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

Le Cedre 61

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EAT! Listings big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/ KoreaTownRest

Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that

she’s more than just a one-trick pony. Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

EAT! Listings Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines,

skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. Full report soon. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth. One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game

of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

pacific

Aroha Bowl Declared by The Guardian as the ‘must-have snack’ of 2017, the cult of poke is finally finding a niche in Warsaw. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served in a bowl of rice and then topped with vibrantly colored fruit, veg and spices. Warning: highly addictive. ul. Puławska 246/5, aroha.pl

EAT! Listings polish Bazar Kocha Mimicking the look of a contemporary farmers’ market, awnings cover the counter at Bazar Kocha and pickled produce lines the shelves – what you see on them is available to buy. Loyal to the concept of terroir, the menu makes a strong case for contemporary Polish cuisine with a seasonally-adjusted choice that involves mutton dumplings; smoked eggplant risotto; or beef cheeks with a silky lovage mousse. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region

of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued

the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy,

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms. Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics

and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl

Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl

LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/ las.warszawa

Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and

Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Kompania Piwna The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and a lively inner courtyard

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

EAT! Listings designed to mimic a Mitteleuropa town square. Prowling mountain bands top off the atmosphere nicely. (D1) ul. Podwale 25

Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets. Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl Stolica An enjoyably nostalgic ride through bygone times, the atmosphere of the inter-bellum is reflected by a menu that celebrates the tastes of classic Poland with no quarter given. Formal service and white tablecloth arrangements lend a typically Old Town ambiance. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3,

restauracjastolica.com

Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. It can be argued, however, that the food never quite hits the heights that the atmosphere warrants. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27, ufukiera.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in Jurassic, XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, uszwejka.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentawarsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings tions; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost

mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4 U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12

EAT! Listings Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream

and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Hala Mirowska As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers and hard-to-find herbs; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Noisy and unkempt, chaotic and crammed, it’s a sensory overload that sends volts through the foodie. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22 Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions

of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, merliniego.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh

Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, basil-lime.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

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EAT! Listings

San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3 Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot

with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl

this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, whythai.pl

vietnamese

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10 Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32 Tran Tran It looks promising enough, with dark woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, look no further than the beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. It’s a dish of simple clarity and vibrant freshness. Faithful in their presentation of Vietnam, Tran Tran’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category. (E5) ul. Wilcza 20 Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska

EAT! Listings

VEGAN Officially ranked the 7th most vegan-friendly city in the world, Warsaw’s plant-based scene continues to expand at a rate that feels close to exponential – during the last roll-call, there were 161 restaurants to pick from! Sensibly, we’ve whittled that choice to a more digestible figure… Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/momencik No Problem Restaurant, bar, hangout: call it what you will, there’s much to like about this versatile all-rounder starting with a

design that’s all scuffed brick, wood furnishings and crazy murals of an all-seeing eye. Now you’re seated, combine eco-minded bites such as Korean Fried Tofu with a small choice of frontier-bending craft beers. (D4) ul. Bracka 20 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Uki Green Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. A pure umami foodgasm, pair your broth with a cute wooden box filled with seasonal vegetable toppings and a crazy colored butterfly pea flower tea before spoiling yourself with a jet black charcoal and coconut ice cream – you won’t regret a thing. You’ll be tagging yourself in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ukigreenramen Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. As for the mushroom burger: wow. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul. Radna 14, vegdeli.pl Vege Małpa A raw, hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: composed of vegan bacon, roasted onions, pickles and a bun that’s blacker than midnight, it’s the final word in junky pleasure. ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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24.10-7.11.2019

Tickets and information: w w w.adamiakjaz z.pl Projekt współfinansuje m.st. Warszawa

Dofinansowano ze środków Ministra Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego

Partnerzy

Patron artystyczny

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DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF YESTERSEN

ALL SO YESTERSEN

Not content with ruling the domestic scene where online vintage furnishings are concerned, Yestersen have gone one better and opened a bricks-and-mortar venture – complete with coffee while you browse! And beautiful it is, too. Already the subject of rave reviews from Vogue, Elle and other such influential titles, the plaudits have been more than warranted. More in line with wading into an aesthetic wave of bliss, on stepping inside visitors are confronted by a sea of beautiful objects: from iconic wall units by Volák to retro tables by Halabali. On the coffee front, find specialty brews supplied by Cophi and no shortage of pretty little cakes and tarts courtesy of Muus. Staying is easy, and spending is even more so. Yestersen ul. Lekarska 5, fb.com/yestersen.warsaw

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Top 5 List

GIMME’ FIVE!

Cozy up and fall in love with five cafes that have autumn in mind… Cophi

ul. Hoża 58/60 The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public.

Czytelnia

Al. Zjednoczenia 46 Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you should as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Reading matter is plentiful, and the positive vibes and permanent sense of chill give it the air of a neighborhood classic: it’s perfect for leafy Stary Bielany.

U K R AW C A

ul. Fabryczna 28/30 A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after an autumn prowl through the parks of Powiśle.

Same Fusy

ul. Nowomiejska 10 Suffused in a soft candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming, vaulted brick room suspended in another time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood and Hobbit-esque atmosphere. With the first chill winds of autumn blowing through the cobbled streets of Old Town, Same Fusy acts as a warm refuge in which to shelter.

COPHI

U Krawca

ul. Siennicka 3 Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Squeaking floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

K AW I A R N I A FA B RY C Z N A

PHOTOGRAPH FROM TOP: COURTESY OF U KRAWCA, KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Kawiarnia Fabryczna

drink! Review

THE END OF AN ERA? For Warsaw’s pavilion bars, the end could be nigh…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

f Warsaw’s night owls were left frantic by the city’s clampdown on the Wisła’s summer party scene, they now face even bigger hysteria with news that the legendary Pavilion bars wedged between Smolna and Foksal could face closure. First constructed in 1972, this network of squat, concrete cabins originally housed artisans and craftsmen and their small stores thrived at a time when the shelves of other shops remained obstinately empty. After the political transformation, these enterprises found themselves gradually phased out, replaced instead by a raft of bars and clubs. Now, market forces are at work once again, and this time it’s one of the country’s best pub crawls that stands to suffer.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

With work now completed on Foksal 13/15 – a luxury residential development backing out onto the pavilions – the project’s developer, Ghelamco, has increased the pressure on the pavilion bars amid concerns that the noise generated by them won’t sit well with the millionaire occupants of the apartments next door. While some have suggested that a giant roof covering the bars could offer a solution, it’s looking increasingly likely that the city will finally cash in on this tract of land to create something more in line with their vision of the Warsaw of the future. Should this happen, the city will lose one of its great standout features. An alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter, the pavilion bars are ensconced in local legend. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance. Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget, prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest concentration of bars in the capital. While seen from a birds eye perspective this collection of scuzzy pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like. Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs outside. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. And the reason for that goes

further than the thrifty attitude to lighting – several have sidestepped smoking regulations by rebranding themselves as sheesha bar, though there are enough nuances to identify them all. From the traditional favorites, PRL-themed Pewex has long been a pre-Luzztro muster point thanks to its firm commitment to electronic sound. At Komix, walls come sheathed in scenes from Marvel while Precedens go for a harder vibe by matching their rock policy with A4 posters of legendary acts. As for the most infamous? Step inside Klaps, a bar boldly decorated with dildo beer taps and illuminated boobs: with that in mind, is it really a surprise to find drinks called Flogger, Punisher and Gangbang on the menu? True, for the most part, the drinks offer is limited to mainstream lager brands and kamikaze shots, but explorations are rewarded with occasional surprises. Proudly boasting an all-female staff, Pawilon 31 has a handy fridge stocked with the boundary pushers of Poland’s craft revolution. Yet for all the many quirks and eccentricities, it is the people who truly make it what it is. Though it’s easy to write the pavilions off as a student zone, doing so misses the mark. Sure, there’s a heavy presence of Erasmus types, but find these bolstered by representatives from all walks of life – crowd-wise, you won’t find a more democratic audience in the whole of the city. And as such, neither will you find a night that’s quite as wild and unpredictable as an evening spent here.

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

Hubert Karsz

Norbert Redkie

THE SIREN CALLS!

September marked the return of Syreni Śpiew, one of the most talked about nocturnal venues in Warsaw’s modern history. Owners Hubert Karsz and Norbert Redkie talk about their hopes and ambitions for the latest version… What can we expect from the new Syreni Śpiew? First, its located in the historic 19th century Koneser vodka factory so, of course, the architecture has changed – the atmosphere, though, most certainly hasn’t! You’ve also got a busy program of events… We’re open seven days a week with live music and all other kinds of entertainment lined up: stand-up comedy and improvised theater every Monday and Tuesday, Burlesque nights each Wednesday, sax nights on Thursday and weekend parties. Much has changed, but creating beautiful memories is our main goal – and, we’ve also got great food and legendary cocktails!

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

How does it differ from the former Syreni Śpiew in Powiśle? The new venues is split over levels, each of them unique. We’ve got three stages for bands or DJs, though the principal change is the addition of a kitchen with a fantastic brick oven and four huge bars – we’re not just a club anymore, but a Mediterranean restaurant, whisky bar and lounge space, one that evolves each night into a club with top-level cocktails. What we’re hoping remains the same is the crowd, as all of our guests previously were simply amazing, open-minded people. Any inspirations? The new venue is the kind of place you’d expect to find in London or New York. We’ve also got rid of the modernist influences; instead, we’ve hit a style that fuses Coco Chanel with Hollywood regency and a dash of Chicago Prohibition.

What attracted you to Praga? Three factors: the architecture, the ‘Praga vibe’ and… our mathematical calculations! Is there an underlying philosophy you’re following? We’re sticking to the same recipe as before. The most important thing about the place is the people. As said before, our aim is to create unforgettable memories for them! What excites you? The food! Why will Warsaw love the new reboot! Simply, there’s no other place like this in the whole of Poland.

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/syrenispiew

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drink! Review bars & pubs 2Koła Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23 Central Bar

Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

drink! Listings Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for autumn, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3)

ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Pl. Mirowski 1

Wozownia W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former

Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of head-swivelling glamor pusses. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze. Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl

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cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cava Nowy Świat Recently reinvented, the status of this institution hasn’t wavered with its prime location complimented by premium coffee, well-thought cocktails and eco-minded food menu. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 for.rest Originating as a store selling cool ceramics and lavish green succulents, the number of dawdling customers meant

Drink! Listings that adding coffee to the offer was a natural step. Wouldn’t you know it, people loved it even more. Sourcing a diverse range of coffee from the locally-based Java roasters, this beautiful indoor jungle is a true one-off. ul. Nabielaka 8/10

it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. When the sun is out, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy.

monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

ul. Jagiellońska 30

Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store,

Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise)

HOPPY DAYS! The city counts down to the eleventh edition of the Warsaw Beer Festival… Organized twice a year, and attracting 20,000 drinkers over the course of the three-day event, the Warsaw Beer Festival has developed into Central Europe’s most prestigious craft beer shindig. “With no bullshit,” state the organizers, “we'll show you the new school of brewing.” With a clear focus on domestic breweries (less than 10% hail from elsewhere), the festival has also become a showcase of the country’s capabilities. More to the p(o) int, with approximately 750 beers on tap, it’s also rather fun. For novices and first-timers, Thursday is traditionally viewed as ‘Beer Geek Day’, a time for nerds to skive off work to chat to brewers about their latest brews; Friday, on the other hand, is big drink-up, a day when the stadium turns into a giant party pub. Saturday, meanwhile, is when the hangovers start to tell: expect a more chilled out vibe to wrap it all up. Held in the Legia football stadium, a state-of-the-art venue well versed in handling large, boozy crowds, it’s an absolute must for any craft aficionado. Warsaw Beer Festival Oct 24th – 26th ul. Łazeienkowska 3, warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

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drink! Listings just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

ul. Wioślarska 6

clubs

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna

Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

ritualwarsaw.com

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4)

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12,

38, smolna38.com

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

The View Because who doesn’t love partying under palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it

Drink! Listings opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive

service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4)

oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie

mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul.

Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Loreta There aren’t many places the Insider preferred to be over summer than on the top floor of the Puro cradling a cocktail in its paws. The funky, eclectic décor comprises of bubblegum pink neon signage, bristling greenery and low-slung seating and is complimented by inventive cocktails often ad-libbed by the staff. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5)

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

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La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul.

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse T R C you’d read about in Dickens, position P T M yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace C W ≈ forWa celebratory cigar and a glass of C ≈ something tall and lovely: the cocktails C C are inTa ≈class of their own and specifically ≈ customized for the season. Spooling, P E ≈ silent Bond films, regular burlesque L S shows and random decorative monkey P B figures addBan unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

IVILIZED

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Piękna 54

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that

Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers glinting behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a

drink! Listings credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4 Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it

live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of this spot generates an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction

drink! Listings with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/ klubpoglos

Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

wine bars Ale Wino! Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can

Drink! Listings climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. It’s all ideal for pre-theater drinks or a date night with someone special. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat

them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4,

Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7

nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

(also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

44,dyletanci.pl

Nowina Kieliszki Na Hożej The striking interior that catches the eye Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly from across the street – restored pre-war over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testatiling, glinting surfaces, a world map ment to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the rendered from corks and an engaging wines they have (and there’s a mothreddish glow all do their bit to lend half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 erlode to pickWarsaw from)Insider by thereklama glass.PVM Enjoy Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Taste the knowledge!

CMY

Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

www.pvm.pl

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ERNEST WINCZYK

do!

FALL IN LOVE WITH AUTUMN

Five escapes with the season in mindâ&#x20AC;¦ warsawinsider.pl

DO! travel Bookworm Cabin

Carska

Białowieża, carska.pl From zł. 380 per night You could stay in a 19th century water tower, but for the full Carska experience book one of the train wagons instead. Voluptuously decorated with wood paneling, heavy-duty beds and black and white portraits of the Russian aristocracy, the last Tsar’s private station is now a luxurious retreat that you’re unlikely to forget. Full of ornamental antiques and hunting trophies, consider it akin to waking up on the set of Dr. Zhivago. The quaint village of Białowieża is close by, and beyond, dense primeval forests populated with bison.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, ED WIGHT, ERNEST WINCZYK, COURTESY OF OWNERS (3)

Adelin, fb.com/bookwormcabin From zł. 395 per night Wine, fireplace, books: check, check and checkity check! Just 45-minutes from the capital, the Bookworm Cabin promises something unique – a woodsy, rural retreat custom-built with avid readers in mind. A pocketsized off-grid escape, features number an intimate mezzanine level, a wooden outdoor deck, and a five-meter tall window touting unimpeded views of the countryside beyond. And, of course, there’s books – shelves and shelves groaning under the weight of countless tomes that cover all genres.

DO! Listings Widnokrąg

Sandomierz, widnokrag.com.pl From zł. 350 per night Set just within a Gothic gateway, Widnokrąg is the stay that scenic Sandomierz has long been missing. Find four aesthetically pleasing rooms all of which give more than a passing nod to cult Polish brands and producers – it feels simultaneously homely but luxurious. Extra points go to a fab on-site restaurant that’s creative, contemporary and a celebration of local. It’s the kind of warm sanctuary you yearn to return too after an evening spent prowling the foggy, cobbled back streets of this atmospheric town.

4rest Camp

Czastkowo, 4rest.pl From zł. 350 per night There’s something spiritually uplifting about 4rest Camp, and that’s never truer than when watching the morning mist lift at the height of Autumn. For accommodation, you’ll be ensconced in the womblike warmth of an intimate yurt: bury yourself under the duvet whilst the Siberian woodburning fireplace keeps the temperature toasty. As mysterious calls of nature ring out in the distance, make a shivery dash outside to the tube-shaped sauna or bubbling hot tub. If gazing at stars isn’t your thing, then the nocturnal pleasures of Gdańsk are 30 clicks away.

Folwark Bielski

Bielski, folwarkbielskie.pl From zł. 250 per night To enjoy the full beauty of Poland’s amber gold autumns you’re going to need to realign the soul with a farmyard stay. Rustic and relaxing, this upmarket Mazurian farmhouse presents the full-on agro-touristic experience right down to the sound of braying beasts and hooting birds. After a chilly lakeside stroll, defrost by the fire in the kind of living space you’d love to have at home. Design-wise, the mix of retro and contemporary influences make it an easy visual pleasure that everybody will love.

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DO! exhibition

GDYNIA-TEL AVIV: POLIN'S STUNNING NEW EXHIBITION

Three-thousand miles apart, yet bonded by several underlying similarities, a new exhibition at the POLIN museum seeks to explore the entwining commonalities between Gdynia and Tel Aviv.

ippling blue seas, pristine white buildings, stretching sands and clear, sunny skies. This is the Gdynia and Tel Aviv that the exhibition celebrates, two cities founded on an idealistic dream in the early decades of the 20th century. Christened in 1919, Gdynia was intended as “Poland’s gate unto the world”, a modern seaport that represented the dreams and aspirations of the newly independent Polish state. Tel Aviv, founded a decade earlier, was to be the “first Hebrew city”, and an entrance gate for the thousands of new arrivals eager to play their role in the creation of the future Jewish state.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Ongoing from 13 September 2019 until 3 February 2020 (tickets zł. 15 / 10) POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

These representative functions, says the exhibition’s curator, combined with beginning of the new century to provide a unique opportunity to realize a series of ambitious design plans. As such, renowned architects – many of Jewish heritage – were invited to participate in the construction of both cities, promoting a modernist style that reflected the era. “Through extensive bright windows of a 20th-century home one can spot the white cities of tomorrow,” commentators enthused. But what was ordinary life like in these so-called ‘white cities’. The Gdynia-Tel Aviv exhibition addresses this through its rich assembly of archival photographs, not to mention a number of propaganda posters promoting both as tourist destinations. However, common strands went beyond architecture and ideology. Connecting the cities was the Gdynia-America Shipping Line, with the MS Piłsudski the most famous vessel from this fleet. Serving an almost ambassadorial role for Poland, details on the ocean liner were designed by some of the most eminent Polish artists of the day, with elements such as the tableware on show at the exhibition. Beyond this, the cities attracted and inspired artists from both countries, and the exposition includes many of these original artworks: some from Polish collections, others shipped from Israel especially for the occasion. Of these, works by Nahum Gutman, Reuven Rubin and Ludwig Blum are displayed along with contemporary works by the likes of Maria Kiesner and Maurycy Gomulicki (seen outside). Also bridging the past with the present is photographer Wojciech Wilczyk, whose pictorial essay on the modernist architecture of these two cities looks set to be welcome with blanket applause. Purposefully coinciding with the centenary of Gdynia’s foundation and the 110th anniversary of Tel Aviv, the exhibition promises to be one of the most memorable ever to be held at this awardwinning museum. Opposite page bottom: Maurycy Gomulicki, Transatlantyk This page top: Władysław Strzemiński, Seascape, 1933, t/c, ESP Muzeum Sztuki w Łodzi Below: Ze’ev Aleksandrowicz, Locals and Newcomers

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DO! exhibition

Let’s Dance!

A (guilty) pleasure to millions in Poland, disco polo, initially called “sidewalk music” (muzyka chodnikowa), has never been the subject of a museum exhibition before… at least not till now!

o the uninitiated, disco polo may perhaps sound like any other type of dance music, but this unique hybdrid genre fuses elements of Italo disco, synth pop, Eurodance, and traditional party / wedding music to form an unforgettable sound that has become synonymous with Poland. Initially performed by amateur musicians, its subsequent growth following the post1989 transformation was engendered by the democratization of the arts, the wild days of capitalism in Poland, and the social and economic shifts that followed in their wake. Prepared in close cooperation with the museum’s core team and curated by Monika Borys and Bartosz Wójcik, the exhibition showcases the music, the mores, and the visual modes behind it all, portraying disco polo as a contemporary mass spectacle. With a focus on the 1990s – the genre’s golden age – Disco Relaks presents this cultural phenomenon in the context of its historical development from the 1960s onwards, showing its changing reception and its present-day relevance as an “iconic thing”. Featuring carefully selected archival footage, cassette tapes, records, memorabilia, and physical objects from the museum’s permanent collection, as well as commissioned works, the exhibition also sheds light on the under-represented creative output of women, bringing to the fore the work and stage personae of female vocalists who often took the disco polo circuit by storm. Produced as part of the “Iconic Things” project, the pop-up Disco Relaks exhibition is subsidized by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage of the Republic of Poland as part of the “2018-20 Cultural Education” program and co-financed by the Mazowieckie Voivodeship. Disco Relaks Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl Exhibition runs from October 18th till March 1st, 2020

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

r ne t rt igh Pa otl Sp

TAKE IT… SLOW

The legendary Slow Fashion returns for its 14th edition!

or the very best in domestic style, the Slow Fashion will showcase Poland’s top designs for the coming A/W season. Hosted by the Praga Koneser Center, join the nation’s finest talents as they present the latest in fashion, jewelry and accessories to a crowd that appreciates the ‘slow’ philosophy. In line with this, ambassadors for # 14 Slow Fashion include Asia Kocur (Djenka), Jola Saryusz-Szarska (BohoZone), Monika Ptaszek (PtASZEK), Łukasz Milanowski (TakaPara) and Aneta Porębska (MeMola). These, however, represent the tip of the iceberg with over 250 artists, manufacturers and designers represented in all. These carefully selected brands await visitors and, in accordance with the principle #KupujLepszeUbrania, customers will be able to purchase their own clothing, original jewelry and a range of unusual accessories. The fair will also be accompanied by lectures on, among other topics, responsible choices for better

fashion and conscious consumption, as well as workshops focused on the #slow rhythm. Further, anticipate local food producers in the slow food and food truck zone, while other attractions include a workshop filled with Juki sewing machines – vent your creative streak and learn to make bags using textiles you no longer need! On top of that, attend wreath-making classes conducted by Amaranth, bring your kids for a workshop held by the TASHKA Publishing House or learn more about designing prints for bags and t-shirts from the team behind Bazgrołaki. As we say: “don’t buy more clothes – buy better clothes!”

WHEN Slow Fashion October 5 & 6

WHERE Praga Koneser Center Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu warsawinsider.pl

DO! Museums

FAMOUS FIVE

Offering a well-rounded view of Warsaw’s past and present, the following museums and cultural institutions have established themselves as the city’s (and even the nation’s) essential must-sees.

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

AND GET

Created in conjunction with the Warsaw Rising Museum, jazz legend Michał Urbaniak’s latest album, From Warsaw With Love, is a personalized tribute to the battle and offers a musical journey dedicated “to those who are gone and those who still are.” Featuring cameos from Marcus Miller, David Gilmore and Lenny White, the album was released at the end of July as part of the 75th anniversary commemorations.

DO! Museums

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

POLIN

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

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DO! museums

M I N AT U R E PA R K

O B I E K T A L FA

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,

a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-

nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils. The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa

detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3,

50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

stacjamuzeum.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully

EXPERIENCES Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie

them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S

51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch

Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such

as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds. Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

DO! guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible. CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is established as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious when they shimmer in the autumn light. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. With 2019 marking the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike. In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is always a rewarding experience. Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

DO! Listings preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

„Erdkinder” Middle School

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

Montessori High School

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843

DO! Listings 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located

in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl

DO! Listings schools

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of

their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska

DO! Listings 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which

provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

DO! Listings IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 /

fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,

and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908,

885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7,

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish. com. cupofpolish.com

polishonlinenow.com

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules

books Atticus You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl

Czuły Barbarzyńca A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polishlanguage choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl

NEED A VENUE FOR A FAMILY GATHERING OR BIRTHDAY PARTY? CAFE PRZYGODA IS THE PLACE!

- Loads of fun in the indoor playground! - Family events & birthday parties - Workshops for children (inc. sensory activities and "Gordon's Musical Learning") - Dance and acting classes

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts. Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with

kontakt@cafeprzygoda.pl tel. 602 410 420 ul. Bobrowiecka 10

beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

Early Years, Primary, Secondary & IB

Open Days

Come and find out what makes The British School Warsaw special at our Open Days The British School Warsaw provides an inclusive, high quality education in a diverse international setting. With over 27 years of history offering the English National Curriculum and the IB Diploma Programme, our students achieve the highest of academic levels and access to the most prestigious universities worldwide. Join us at our Open Days to explore our purpose built learning spaces, meet our staff and ask all your questions. Come along with your child to: Take part in interactive lessons including STEAM, music, science & humanities Learn about our Curriculum including iGSCEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, IB Diploma Programme and International Primary Curriculum See first hand our Outdoor Learning programme in Early Years Find out about our Sports and extra-curricular activities

Primary, Secondary & IB Thursday 17th October 2019 8.30am - 10.30am

ul. B. Limanowskiego 15, 02-943 Warsaw

ages 6 - 18

Early Years

Thursday 7th November 2019 9.00am - 11.00am

ul. J. DÄ&#x2026;browskiego 84, 02-571 Warsaw

ages 2.5 - 6

Please register at: openday@thebritishschool.pl +48 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 or through our website

www.thebritishschool.pl

DO! Listings health & beauty

massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw),

at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1

creamy.pl

(Mory), flyspot.com

gyms Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

56, thelittlegym.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

spas & salons

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

sport Axe Nation The capital’s first axe throwing club has thwacked down in Poland and caught the imagination since opening last year. “Bowling is for pussies,” screams their website, and being here, you’ll most likely agree. Ideal for bonding, dating or just burying the hatchet, it’s the very definition of raw, caveman fun. ul. Postępu 5, axenation.com

Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly?? Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana Pawła II 61, bikram.pl

shopping fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Cloudmine Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and

DO! Listings one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” And that’s exactly what you’ll find inside this beautiful Saska K. boutique. ul. Paryska 17, cloudmine.pl LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’. Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

home & design August Design Studio Inspired by ‘the joy of simplicity’, discover a world of handmade, artsy ceramics and other ‘design objects’ that are as functional as they are beautiful. Your shelves won’t ever feel the same! ul. Brzozowa 6/8A (enter from ul. Bugaj), augustdesignstudio.pl DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

malls & department stores Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Westfield Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com

Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. ul. Hoża St 59/1, rzeczownik.com

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl

DO! Listings 5-Star Hotels

8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Bellotto

4-Star Hotels

Novotel Warszawa (Airport)

Radisson Blu Sobieski

ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Bristol Hotel

Marriott

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa

Express Relocations

Moxy Warszawa Praga

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

AGS Warsaw

ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

ul. Ząbkowska 29, moxy-hotels. marriott.com

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel. 22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

PURO ul. Widok 9, purohotel.pl

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Interdean International Relocation

Polonia Palace Hotel

ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, interdean.com

Express Relocations ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Sheraton Hotel Warszawa

relocation companies

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Raffles Europejski Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

3-Star Hotels

Westin

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites. A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one. Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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100 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

Assisting over 75 000 families to relocate annually! Worldwide network of 141 locations in 94 countries. Contact us for a free quote today !

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warsawinsider.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

1 5 4 3 2 1

halloween

As Halloween creeps closer, these are the paranormal hotspots you might want to miss…

Morskie Oko 5

Fully restored after lying derelict for years, in this pre-war villa stalks Warsaw’s most famous fright. It was here, during the 1944 Uprising, that a teenage girl named Hanka was picked off by a German sniper whilst bringing flowers to her insurgent sweetheart. Her ghost roams the balcony at the back, pining for her boyfriend.

104 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2019

ul. Nowogrodzka 14

Casper isn’t the only friendly ghost you’ll hear of. Fond of cheerful morning pranks and other such amusements, Maria Wiśniowska has been haunting Nowogrodzka since 1890. Fascinated by death, partial to opium and carrying a reputation as a femme fatale, this glamorous actress had her life cut short when she was shot through the heart by a besotted toy boy lover.

has been spotted only twice in nearly 300-years!

ul. Wilcza 2/4

Flowers wither, floors bleed and unseen women cackle: just another day on the first floor of Wilcza 2/4. Among others, residents of the ghost club here include a banker murdered in 1915 and a melancholic Wehrmacht officer.

Zofiówka Sanatorium

Creepy things happen at Zofiówka. Buried in the Al. Solidarności 62 woodland around Otwock, the The Przebendowski Palace back story of this abandoned has done it all: once home Jewish psychiatric hospital to the Hotel de Hamburg, a reads like a horror film script: waxworks display, a diplomat- experimental electroshock ic residence and a Bavarian therapy sessions, Nazi execubrewhouse that hosted a roll- tions, hanging nuns and call of illusionists and conjur- moving pictures. And that’s ers , it’s probably got the most before we broach the subject bizarre ghost of the lot – a fat of a freaky viral video shot Chinese dude that ‘squints here (type 11B-X-1371 into like a cat’, smokes opium and Google…).

SHUTTERSTOCK

WARSAW’S MOST HAUNTED!