Golden Autumn: exploring Chłodna’s many faces – p. 22
Football: Legia Warszawa inside out – p.
Art:
artist Adam Kosik –
Great things can happen when left in the hands of a blistering talent…
Inside chic, bespoke interiors, enjoy the modern flavors of Warsaw courtesy of head chef Witek Iwański.
And for a highly-personalized experience to remember in the heart of all the action, join us for dinner at the chef's table...
Rdest
– p. 33
Regina na Mysiej – p. 36
Santa Catrina
– p. 38
Va Bene Cicchetti
– p. 40
Zaremba Café
– p. 42
Fashion – p. 59
Last Chance: Witkacy: Seismograph of the Acceleration Age
– p. 61
Movies – p. 62
Masters Paintings at The Royal Łazienki Museum
– p. 64
Jan Piotr Norblin. Sentimental Reporter at the Tin-Roofed Palace – p. 66
FOR ALL THE ROOFTOP PARTIES and riverside vibes that Warsaw offers at the height of each summer, there’s little that beats the city’s entry into autumn. With the colors going from green to gold in the blink of an eye, it’s in October that this capital of ours shows its truest face. Tinged with an underlying sense of melancholia, there’s a crystal beauty to this period, one that seems to epitomize the city’s soul. With the help of a photographer working under the codename of Podniebny Kot, we’ve tried to capture that spirit by zoning in on some of our favorite autumn hotspots. Beyond that visual feast, in this month’s issue we’ve also gathered at the feet of the city’s ultimate sporting God, Kazimierz Deyna, sought to define what makes the once maligned Praga district the treasure that is, snuffled about the city’s arthouse cinemas and crept in reverential silence around the country’s most celebrated cemetery. And yes, there’s also the usual bonanza of hot new openings. Enjoy the mag, and see ya’ next time…
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.plEditor-in-chief
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BY KEVIN
Widely hyped as one of “the new symbols of Warsaw”, September saw the Varso Tower officially open for business after its first tenants moved in.
Designed by the London-based studio
Foster + Partners, the EU’s tallest architectural structure has been dubbed the ‘final showpiece’ of Varso Place, a mixed-use project spread over three buildings. Reaching 310-meters to the tip of its spire, the record-break ing Varso Tower also boasts Warsaw’s highest garden thanks to the 16 trees that were planted 206-meters above ground level in mid-2021.
“A key part of the project is its greenery,” states the developer, HB Reavis. “Another dozen trees decorate the spacious, mosaic-lined lobby and pepper the surroundings.” Also found in the lobby, decorations number 1,800 hand-painted ceramic tiles, many of which make refer ences to Warsaw’s history.
Touting 70,000 sq/m of A-Class office space across 53-floors, the building is set to accommodate 12,000 work ers. Already, tenants that have signed up include the legal firms CMS and Greenberg Trau rig, as well as the cloud provider The Box. Certified ‘outstanding’ and ‘gold’ by BREEAM and WELL, other features are set to include viewing terraces on the 49th and 53rd level, as well as a restaurant boasting panoramic
views. These have been slated to open in 2023.
“Varso Tower’s timeless, slen der design is emphasized by the boomerang-shaped steps near its summit, while the façade’s vertical divide brings a lightness and elegance to its character,” say HB Reavis. Attracting a raft
of positive headlines, these are set to continue in the weeks and months ahead. On October 8th, for instance, the tower will welcome 500 runners who will race up 53-floors and 1,400 stairs to compete in a charity run seeking to raise money for Ukraine.
Join us as we turn back the clock to remember the Queen’s one and only visit to Poland…
President Duda was among the world leaders in attendance as Britain laid Queen Elizabeth II to rest in September. Viewed by a global audience in excess of four billion, the funeral ceremony was also followed closely by millions in Poland. However, this was not the first time that Her Majesty had caused Poles to pause.
Visiting the country in March 1996, her sole trip to Poland is still warmly remembered. Ac companied by Prince Philip, the regent landed at Okęcie Interna tional Airport on March 26th and headed immediately to the Presi dential Palace to meet Aleksand er Kwaśniewski and his wife. With introductions made, the Queen
awarded President Kwaśniewski with the Most Honourable Order of the Bath. In reciprocation, the Queen was awarded the highest Polish decoration – the Order of the White Eagle.
Mayor Marcin Święcicki then took her on a walk of the Old Town where she opened an exhibition at the Royal Castle celebrating 900-years of Brit ish-Polish relations. The moment also gave her ample opportunity to demonstrate her knowledge of the historic center’s defining landmark.
After, the Queen visited Um schlagplatz, paid respects at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and planted an oak in Saski Gar dens. Staying in the Belvedere Palace, the Queen was accom
panied by a 40-strong entourage that included Britain’s foreign minister, Malcolm Rifkind, as well as her secretary, courtiers, a doc tor and personal hairdresser. The next day she spoke at the Sejm and used the chance to voice her support for Poland’s bid for EU and NATO membership.
Her schedule included a visit to the acclaimed Stefan Batory high school (which had been previously visited by Michael Jackson) where she watched pupils perform a fragment of Pan Tadeusz. Prior, embassy officials had set out guidelines forbidding people asking questions about the Falklands, mad cow disease and Diana’s split from Charles. Instead, pupils were advised to ask her about corgis, the weather and horses.
Having enjoyed a state ban quet the night before (during which Philip had broken protocol to request a Polish beer), the second night was spent at Teatr Wielki where the royal couple watched La Fille Mal Garde. The Queen’s other ports of call includ ed the commemorative boulder standing in Park Skaryszewski –here she paid her respects to the British airmen that had died close by after their plane was shot down whilst on a supply mission during the Warsaw Uprising.
“The Queen showed all the best that she had,” President Kwaśniewski recalled. “On the one hand, she showed us real human warmth. On the other, she demonstrated great dignity and decorum. She also revealed a great deal of sympathy for Poland that, she said, took shape during WWII when her service brought her into contact with Polish airmen and soldiers.”
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The Insider traces the paths of Warsaw’s forgotten tramlines…
Works on Plac Trzech Krzyży in September were briefly paused after a pre-war cob bled pavement was unearthed underneath the asphalt, as well as fragments of a tram track that once ran down the street. Impressed by the nature of its condition, the Conservator of Monuments immediately
announced plans on Facebook to protect the discovery. “The pavement is well preserved,” said the statement. “We will do everything together with City Hall and the Municipal Roads Authority to ensure that it again enjoys the eyes of Warsaw’s residents.” Fascinating as the find has been, Warsaw has plenty of other such traces that have doggedly survived…
Not to be confused with the football team, the Arsenał building just north of Pl. Bankowy once fell next to Nalewki – commonly judged to have been the epicenter of pre-war Jewish life, it was here that all walks of life met in a confounding collision of noise and bustle. “Such crowds,” wrote Henryk Nagiel in 1911, “all gesticulating, arguing and accosting each other. To break through this human swarm was impossible! And in the middle, ran trams with loud bells, their heavily loaded carriages rattling.” With the area obliterated during the destruction of the Ghetto, and subsequently remapped, the one surviving element is a tram line that ghosts past Arsenał and runs adjacent to Krasiński Gardens.
The first tram connection between the city center and what was then the village of Wola debuted in 1882 – around half-a-century after Chopin took this route out of town to enter permanent exile. Electrified in 1908, this tram route gained infamy during WWII when it continued to operate despite being flanked on either side by ‘small’ and ‘large’ Jewish Ghettos. The route was revived after the war, but was cancelled for good after a parallel line of communication was constructed as part
of the W-Z highway project. Last used on No vember 22nd, 1948, traces of the tram track can still be seen running to the side of the church on Chłodna.
As a center of pre-war Jewish, Russian and Polish trade, Pl. Grzybowski was long seen as a major communication node. Triangular in shape, it was bound by tram lines – though trams officially ceased running here in 1956, the tracks remained and were often used by both breakdown crews and film units. On the side of the Cosmopolitan tower, rails remain in place – the other two sides, meanwhile, have had the former tracks sym bolically marked out in colored stone as part of Grzybowski’s renovation.
Snuck discreetly between the bombastic Pl. Kon stytucji and the wedding cake pomp of the city’s Polytechnic (famed alumni: the fictional Bond vil lain Ernst Stavro Blofeld!), Śniadeckich street feels like one of Warsaw’s hidden secrets – a pictur esque place lined with elegant pre-war buildings. Between these, find a set of perfectly preserved tramlines that were rediscovered in 2005 – nearly sixty-years after they were last properly used.
Perhaps no street has played a more central role in the regeneration of the once-maligned Praga district. Its unique flavor is underscored by the Neo Gothic gates of the former Koneser Vodka Factory, the peeling street art, shadowy inner courtyards and dark, murky bars that dot the road. But also playing a role is the disused tramline that runs towards Targowa. Essential to the atmo sphere of the street, it lends a sense of history to this gentrifying road.
With All Saints’ Day approaching, Powązki Cemetery takes on a new lease of life…
As October winds to its conclusion, visitor numbers to Warsaw’s cemeter ies rise sharply in anticipation of All Saints’ Day on November 1st. In the days preceding, the capital’s 40 graveyards find themselves blanketed in a spooky reddish glow as tens of thousands of locals descend to leave flickering votive lanterns at the graves of their loved ones.
Yet while Warsaw has no shortage of spell
binding cemeteries, it is the 43-hectare Powązki that is the most loved. Founded on November 4th, 1790, and the home to over one million graves, it offers a rich bounty of curious sights – not least located on the so-called Avenue of Notables. Here lie some of Poland’s biggest names, from the family of Chopin to the stars of stage and screen. When the leaves turn damp and the mist hangs heavy, visiting this necropolis feels like traveling in time.
Several ‘they lie here’ maps exist online of Powązki, but the truth is the best way to see the cemetery is to let instinct be your guide. Doing just that, visitors will pass scores of beautiful graves, many of them bearing the stains of time. With Octo ber’s milky half-light slashing through the trees, exploring the various avenues is an enchanting experience that’s not short of surprises.
A theater actress and singer by profession, Barbara Bobrowska’s tomb was embellished three years after her death courtesy of a stunning monument designed by Wojciech Chmiel and Dorota Mu licka-Rudzińska. Featuring a sweeping female figure, the hourglass in her hand reputedly symbolizes mortality and time. Alluring and enigmatic, there’s an ethereal quality to this moving piece of art.
Commonly regarded as one the greatest Polish film directors of all time, Kieślowski’s grave is marked not by a bog standard cross, but by a pair of hands posed to form the shape of a frame. Unusual to say the least, its bronze form attracted the attention of a drug-addicted thief in 2013 who stole it and sold it to a metal dealer for PLN 300. It was later recovered in a Targówek scrapyard.
KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKI
A reminder that true love never dies, Stefan Rachoń’s grave is sometimes described as the most romantic in Powązki. A conductor and violinist, he was the founder of the Polish Radio Orchestra and made around 10,000 recordings during a glit tering career with them. Passing away in 2001, his tomb shows him about to lead his wife, an opera singer, into song.
JERZY KOLANOWSKI (unknown)
Thus passes the glory of the world – so says the Latin inscription on the Kolanowski family tomb. Depicting the Greek God Kronos looking bent and haggard, this atmospheric sculpture was added as recently as 2017. Made from marble, its relative newness strikes a contrast against the neighboring moss-eaten tombs and skeletal trees. Strangely, despite being cited as one of the more spectacular tombs in Powązki, little information exists about the Kolanowski clan, a point that lends an element of mystery to this eerie-looking grave.
An honorary citizen of the state of Arkansas and the city of Cognac, Janowski was a prolific violinist whose music enthralled the world. Playing a 1772 Italian violin produced by Guarneri del Gesu, he first achieved fame in 1967 when he became the first Pole to win the Henryk Wieniawski International Vio lin Competition. Passing away in London, the cosmopolitan musician was later interred in Powązki where he today stands guard with his beloved violin.
In Powązki, it’s natural to assume that many stories come laced with tragedy, and that’s never truer than in the case of Maria Julia Wisnowska, a theater actress who was shot in 1890 by her Russian lover, Alexander Bartniew. Said to have held a morbid fascination with death, and known for her fondness for opium, she was shot by the young Tsarist officer in a crime of passion. Her tombstone, designed by Bolesław Syrewicz, features a palm leaf to symbolize martyrdom. Strangely somewhat, Wisnowska is still said to haunt her former apartment on Nowogrodz ka 14 where she is known to play cheerful pranks on unwitting residents.
The popular TVN news reader died prematurely from cancer at the age of 33. Among other things, his career involved re porting on the 9/11 attacks and covering the death of Pope John Paul II. Despite the gravity of his illness, he continued to ap pear on TV and in the process endeared himself to millions. Seen as a blue door, his grave is symbolic of the divide between life and death. Left slightly ajar, it suggests that the dead never entirely leave us.
Designed by Arthur E. Gurney, the tenement sitting on the corner of Lwowska has grown to become one of the architectural jewels of the city center…
KEVIN
Some have likened it to a Disney castle, yet for even more the tenement on Lwowska 15 & 17 has more in line with New York’s Dakota building – the scene not just of John Lennon’s murder, but also the backdrop for Roman Po lanski’s epic horror Rosemary’s Baby. Either way, it cannot be accused of being indistinct.
Built between 1911 and 1912, it was commissioned to house the headquarters of one of War saw’s leading pre-war construc tion firms, Horn & Rupiewicz, and today it continues to cast an at mospheric shadow on the street below, imparting an unequivocal sense of mystery and elegance. Notable for its stone balconies, bay windows, overhangs and rich details, exterior elements included grotesque gargoyles as well as birds and fish rendered in stone. Look carefully, and these can still be distinguished.
Architecturally, the building was credited to Arthur E. Gurney, a British architect known for his collaborations with Bronisław Brochwicz-Rogóyski. Having studied in Germany, Gurney later moved to Łódź before placing
roots down in Warsaw in 1899. Known to be fluent in Polish and Russian, he was involved in the design of the PASTa Tower on Zielna, a structure that many recognize as being Warsaw’s first true skyscraper.
Forging an enviable reputation, he was responsible for the Drzewiecki tenement that stands to this day on Jerozolimskie 51 – later becoming the Omega Hospital, stories linger of its corridors being stalked by wailing, ghostly children. Prolific in his output, other projects in his portfolio include the impressive tenement standing at Jerozolimskie 99.
However, it is his Lwowska masterpiece that has come to be seen by many as his most representative work, and unsurprisingly so. A firm fan of the defensive stronghold architectural styles of the Gothic, Renais sance and Baroque periods, this visually complex construction has no shortage of pseudo battlements and other excessive frills.
Although Gurney left Poland for good in 1915, his contribution to Warsaw’s architectural history could not be called into question: he had forever left his mark. In the case of the Horn & Rupiewicz tenement on Lwows ka, that would enjoy a period of popularity among the Jewish, Russian and Polish academics and professors working at the nearby Polytechnic, and it gained further fame on account of a ‘colonial’ shop owned by a gentleman by the name of Felicjan Masiewicz – we can presume that it specialized in the sale of exotica such as coffee, tea and spices.
During the war, a makeshift field hospital operated here during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and whilst the building survived any significant damage, its signature tower was blasted off and only rebuilt in 1995. Since then, it has again found favor among the public, not least due to the 2015 launch of Autor Rooms. Occupy ing 200 sq/m of the building, this boutique guesthouse project has attracted a slew of publicity from the lifestyle press.
Offering something a little more raw and gritty, the Beer Station Centrum pub in the basement, on the oth er hand, has also acquired a cult reputation for its long, hazy nights and warm, authentic brand of Belarussian hospitality – in vastly different ways, both have lent the building a contemporary relevance.
Tragically cut short, the Insider looks back on the life of Kazimierz Deyna, a cultural icon whose importance to Poland transcended sport…
Pre-dating football’s glossy modern era, one player bossed the domestic spot light like no other. Hailed as the nation’s first internationally recognized celebrity sportsman, such was Kazimierz Deyna’s stock that even Pele once remarked: “even God would not be able to improve him as a footballer.”
Born on October 23rd, 1947 in Starograd Gdańs ki, Deyna appeared for his hometown club’s youth section before being snapped up by ŁKS Łódź in 1966. Playing just one match for them, he was then swiftly poached by Legia Warszawa – their outma neuvering of ŁKS is to this day considered one of the greatest masterstrokes in Polish transfer history.
Under the guidance of Czech coach Jaroslav Vejvoda, by 1969 he had won his first domestic league and cup double, an accomplishment that he would repeat the following season. In all, he would score 141 goals for Legia in a 12-season career that saw him play 390 matches for the capital’s premier side.
Working as a club tour guide, longstanding supporter Piotr Wałecki describes him as a football genius: “even on a bad day, he had the ability to transform a game with one killer pass or an unusu al shot. There would be times the crowd would get frustrated by him, only for Deyna to then hit some brilliant pass or conjure a goal out of thin air.”
Rated alongside Lucjan Brychczy as Legia’s greatest footballer, he was worshipped on the terraces and played a crucial role in the club’s European Cup run in 1969/70 – however, it wasn’t just his outrageous talent that endeared him to the public. With his snappy dress sense and fashion able haircut, his playboy spirit added a glamorous, cavalier twist to his character. A regular at on-trend haunts such as Adria, Roxana and bar of the Hotel Europejski, some remember that Deyna would take hours ensuring he looked perfect before going out on the town. Amid the crushing daily reality of life under Communism, he was a dazzling comet.
Having once considered an alternative career as a ping pong player, Deyna’s impact on the game cannot be underestimated. Capped 97 times by Poland, he finished as top scorer at the 1972 Olym pics before being part of the team that qualified for the 1974 World Cup after first keeping England to a draw at Wembley. Ap pearing as rank outsid ers, the Poles shocked the global pundits after triumphing over Argen tina, massacring Haiti 7-0, and then recording a stunning victory over Italy – in the latter match, Deyna’s goal was hit with such ferocity that he needed to replace his boots straight after.
Meeting West Ger many in the semi-finals, Poland lost to the tour nament hosts (and even tual winners) in what was to go down in history as ‘the water battle of Frankfurt’. Played in farcical conditions, Franz Beckenbauer later admitted that his side would not have stood a chance had they played Poland in normal weather.
Deyna’s international profile became such that Real Madrid reputedly sent him a shirt with his name on the back. AC Milan and Bayern Munich also hovered in the wings, as did AS Monaco who tracked his progress on the urging of Prince Rain ier. However, all prospective moves were blocked by the Communist authorities, thereby depriving him the chance to shine on Europe’s biggest stages. Considered one of the best players in the world during this era, this was undoubtedly a blow to a man who had rewritten history to become the first Pole to ranked in the Golden Ball Awards (he finished third in 1974 behind Johan Cruyff and
In keeping with the rules of the time, players were blocked from leaving Poland until the age of 30. Eventually though, a transfer to Manchester City was sealed in 1978. Commanding a fee of GBP 100,000, the move was sweetened by a horde of Adidas tracksuits and an agreement for two friendlies to be played between Legia and City. “It was a farewell performance,” says Piotr. “In the first half he played in the colors of Legia and scored. In the second, he swapped shirts to represent City – when he scored, I’ve never seen the crowd cele brate an opposition goal in quite the same way!”
Becoming the second Eastern European to play in England, he scored seven goals in City’s last eight games to save them from relegation; his cult status was cemented further when he was alongside Stallone and Caine in Escape To Victory. Despite the adoration he received from the public, he found himself increasingly marginalized at Maine Road and moved to the San Diego Sockers. Unfortunately, despite enjoying much success on the pitch, by this time his problems with drinking had spiralled and these were further compounded by financial issues. Ultimately, the player who gave such unbridled joy to millions would have his life tragically cut short after crashing his car into a parked truck on September 1st, 1989. He was just 41-years-old. After first being buried in San Diego, an urn containing Kazik’s ashes was flown back to Poland in 2012 and interred at Powązki’s Military Cemetery at a ceremony held on June 6th. Attended by former teammates and hundreds of fans, his return to Warsaw was made possible after Legia followers raised the required funds.
The passage of time has not softened the emo tions he still evokes, and to this day it is impossible to visit Legia on matchday without spotting an array of banners and t-shirts honoring his legacy. Likewise, outside the stadium, the Deyna monu ment has come to be regarded as an iconic prematch meeting point.
Franz Beckenbauer).
When’s the best time to view Warsaw? Some would say at the height of summer, when the city bursts green and takes on the persona of a partying teen. There are others, though, that would make a case for winter – in particular, that first snowfall that leaves the town encased in sparkling whites (until about seven hours later when it all turns to muck).
For us though, there is no competition. Known locally as Złota Jesień, the golden autumn does not last long – blink and you’ll miss it. Beginning with crystal clear skies and vibrant foliage, the vivid yellow-green glow quickly dulls to leave the city smolder ing under a skin the color of toffee and car rot. Poetically melancholic, it is at this point that the soul of Warsaw is truly expressed.
Warsaw is often labeled ‘a city of con trasts’, but rarely does this title feel more acute than when viewing the city from the fogged-up windows of the commut er trains that chunter along ulica Sokola. In front of you, slashing through the tangled wilds that grow by the river, the highway that bends through these cuts a striking sight, leading as it does to the elegant form of Świętokrzyski Bridge
On the distant horizon, a catwalk of skyscrapers bristle against the skies as if belonging to an out-of-reach world.
As Warsaw enters its autumn phase, we pick out a few of the places that make it so special…
Of course, the Royal Castle by the Old Town is not a bad sight either come autumn, with its russet color scheme practically rhyming with the season. Yet it is Ujazdowski Castle, instead, that will steal your heart when autumn comes knocking. Having first warmed yourself in the
contemporary art gallery inside, explore the grounds before crossing the footbridge span ning busy Trasa Łazienkowska. Doing so will take you to the Finnish Houses, a remarkable micro-community of timber chalets constructed after the war.
How can you improve Łazienki Park ? Well, by rendering it in the colors of autumn. Designed in the 17th century by the brilliant Tylman van Gameren, this throwback to the Imperial Age is generously sprinkled with Greco-Roman follies and curling trails that pass lakes and
canals. As you crunch over the fallen leaves, encounters with squirrels and peacocks come guaranteed. After, as dusk settles, walk down Agrykola – lined with gas-powered lights, these form halos of light that shine seductively through the gloom.
Originally named after Stalin, Świętokrzyski Park is one of those great Warsaw anom alies – a more central park you will not find, yet it remains under-vis ited by the public, as if it were walled-off from the city. Not that this is a bad thing. With the dehumanizing and Gotham-esque Palace of Culture glowering close by, walking this lonely park in autumn feels like starring in your own personal Cold War thriller.
Still broken and sooty in parts, the Praga district’s historic core never looks better than in the glow of early Autumn –and here’s a dozen reasons why you shouldn’t put off a visit…
For those that want to creep it real in the month of Halloween, then head out to Praga’s old quarter to chill in the shad ows of its Neo Gothic architecture – the twin-spired, 10,000 capacity cathedral is the best example of this spooky style, but don’t forget the crescent-shaped Praski Hospital with its long, dark windows (Solidarności 67), the turreted entrance of the Koneser complex and the winged creatures that adorn the Pod Sowami building on Okrzei 26.
The uniqueness of Praga’s personality can be recognized by the 120 shrines that await to be discovered in the battered backyards of the district. Offering a rare ray of light (often literally) in their gloomy surroundings, these kapliczki are of ten richly embellished with fresh floral arrangements, kitschy lights and assorted add-ons. Largely created during WWII when church gatherings were forbidden, there are several others around Warsaw, but it is Praga’s that are the most fanciful.
Praga’s diet is pleasingly varied – for an upmarket, meat-centric menu in sophisti cated, post-industrial surrounds, look no further than the Koneser Grill. At the oth er end of the scale, the down-at-heel Pyzy Flaki Gorące (left) serves dumplings in little glass jars and has a legendary status in the neighborhood (and beyond!). Hip and retro in its look, but local and forward thinking in its menu, Źródło personifies Poland’s culinary (r)evolution, whilst the chic, intimate hub.praga is the area’s most creative experience.
Praga is known as ‘the heart of Warsaw’s street art scene’, and though it’s probably now lost the numbers game to Ursynów, it’ll forever be regarded as the birthplace of the city’s mural-osis. As an incubator for grassroots artistic expression, it was in Praga that the city first fell for the XL art splashed on the sides of disintegrat ing tenements. Many of these originals survive, albeit in increasingly peeling form, but their number has been bumped up by newer additions such as the surrealistic work of Tytus Brzozowski (left) and the cheerful image of ‘the Praga band’.
Once autumn slams down, Praga becomes a big delicious bang of caramel shades – that’s especially true of Park Praski, a place whose defining landmark is a 13-meter giraffe that’s a leftover from 80s Poland – and hang on, there’s also the commie era band shell. Seen from the right angle, it looks like a UFO that’s slammed into the bushes. For something wilder, head to the riverside. Contrast ed against the revamped left bank, the right flank of the Wisła is a tangle of untamed nature.
The Vodka Museum is the one that gets the publicity, and its interactive, modern philosophy isn’t short of playfulness –using VR goggles, you’ll get to experience the effects of having a skinful without even getting plastered! We don’t really count the Neon Museum as falling in side our definition of Old Praga, but even so it would be remiss to overlook it given its fantastical collection of retro commie neon. Big shout also to The Praga Museum, among whose high lights include a ‘magic carpet’ of brilliantly naff street traders tat. And for the curiosity seeker, make time (ha!) for the Clock Museum – a tiny Aladdin’s Cave whose star piece is the ‘master clock’ that once controlled all the timepieces at Central Station.
Art in Praga means more than just murals. Weirdness can be found (providing they haven’t been stolen) in the form of colorful knitted ‘yarn bombs’ that often adorn the bollards on Kawęczyńska street, and then you’ve also got the localized outbreak of blue angels to consider. First debuting in 2010, these 40-kilo fiber glass figures are the creation of Marek Sułek though have often faced paint attacks, theft and even decap itation. A bit more standard, check the homage to the bands that once stalked the local courtyards in return for cash thrown down from the windows. Illuminated at night, the monument to ‘the Praga band’, is specially fitted to play classic local tunes on SMS demand.
Brzeska still struggles to shake off its reputation as ‘the most dangerous street in Warsaw’. To this day, there are stretches of it that are uncomfortable to walk – even during daylight. Its grim, echoing courtyards are quite a place to be. Same goes for Mała, a street so authentic in its pre-war vibe that Roman Polanski shot many scenes for The Pianist here. Oh, if you see the letters LSR painted anywhere, they mark the way to the nearest wartime bomb shelter.
Some know Praga as being ‘rough and ready’, others as the home of Warsaw’s alternative, artsy side. These worlds collide in its dive bars, the pick of which is Oprach W Absurdu; in daytime, it’s a place where dusty antiques are bathed in moody half-light. At night, it spins off its axis and disappears down a demented vortex of vodka, music and shouted babble. Then you’ve Chmury and Hydroza gadka. Set in a fleapit courtyard, its hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Finally, in a new location, there’s Offside, the official home of Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football team – AKS Zly.
In keeping with its underlying air of vintage cool, Praga has no shortage of stores sell ing pre-loved goods. To root among eclectic vinyls visit Plyty Gramofonowe (Ząbkowska 11) before heading forth to Sklep Lata 60-te (11 Listopada 54) and Look Inside (Wileńska 21) to pick from their rich array of retro treasures. Finally, look out for the yard sale-style actions that are occasionally conducted at the revamped Bazar Różyckiego. Founded in 1882, the place was once synonymous with black market dealings, though now (largely) specializes in uber cool vintage.
Amid its blackened, bul let-marked pre-war architecture, Praga’s historic center has generous sprinkles of post-war oddities – these include the rain bow colored cinema building and, of course, the epic sausage dog building that snakes end lessly opposite Wschodnia train station on Kijowska. So named because of squat height and long length, this 1973 apartment block runs for over 508 meters. Also nicknamed ‘the tapeworm’, it featured as a backdrop for the Travis video Love Will Come Through
Praga has more secrets than a pervy politician, you just need to know where to find them. Speaking for ourselves, we love the pre-war traders’ letter ing found on Brzeska, not to mention the WWII bunker set into the ground on the corner of Panieńska and Jasińskiego. But more than anything else, it’s the spirally stairwell on Kłopotows kiego 38 that gets us the most. To view it, you’ll need to beat the buzzer to enter this apart ment building, but your stealth will be rewarded by Warsaw’s most photogenic set of stairs. Looking like something from an M.C Escher painting, it’s even appeared in a Polish Academy Award winning film about a time traveling janitor!
BY KEVIN
For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one ad dress, check out the following Warsaw legends…
Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl
For many, this is the most ‘authentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, something rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsa rist-era structure. Note: open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
On one side, a farmers’ market flourishes with fresh produce and artisanal goods a forte. Segregated by a communal seating plan in the center, the rest has seen the floorplan lined with street food units of high reputation.
TIPPLES!
Order up drinks from the Niewinność wine bar or beers from the lively San Escobar. Craft nerds should visit the pocket-sized Piwna Gwardii to guarantee a hazy night.
ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl
Occupying a revamped 19th century, the Browary complex feels more like a district within a district with its revitalized his toric buildings rubbing along side upmarket new build. The food hall is the most premium in its category, and the sunken plaza outside is sure to enjoy one final swansong before the cold weather hits. Don’t miss their flagship brewpub!
ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
A former power plant, this remarkable regeneration project has kept hold of many industrial keepsakes such as the panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture. A wonder to explore, highlights include a retail offer angled towards hip Polish design firms as well as international brands otherwise unseen in Poland (that means you, Urban Outfitters).
FOOD & DRINK
Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca and ably supported by standalone restaurant projects scattered elsewhere: in terms of highlights, that means ace Tex Mex from the Blue Cactus and light bites at the design-minded Dock 19.
Running on the first weekend of October, head to EP for their super-fun take on Munich’s Oktoberfest. Featuring beer straight from the Munich Hofbräu, attractions include the Silesian Tyrol Band and Bavarian delicacies.
Blue Cactus Dock 19Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Aside from Warsaw’s largest food hall, find museums (one dedicated to the factory space, another to Ap ple products – the tech brand not the fruit!), the luxury Kinogram cinema, the Bio Bazar farmers’ market and a diverse choice of bars and drink spots.
October 8th will see Koszyki’s lower levels give over to arts and craft producers as part of a oneoff design festival. A celebration of Poland’s ‘slow life’, organizers promise a rich bounty of unique, hand-crafted ceramics and decorations to personalize your living space.
Hala Koszyki changed War saw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it trans formed Warsaw’s gastro scene and continues to be seen as the benchmark when it comes to such culinary concepts.
Debuting at the end of September, the latest exhibition, titled Save the Planet, at the Art Box Expe rience reveals the damage mankind has reeked on the earth whilst also leaving room for hope.
MITSUHIRO HIGUCHI
Tucked away near Morksie Oko, this neighborhood gem could go unnoticed were it not for the lovely oversized typography set vertically on the large storefront window – this outsized state ment contrasts against the tiny bakery it advertises, a place so small it’s a candidate for the teeniest bakery in the whole of Poland, let alone Warsaw.
Hailing from Poznań, Rdest is the work of Karolina Huzarska –a graphic artist by education, she made the full-time switch to baking having had to make the choice between the two things she was skilled to do the most. Using forms to make her bread, her methods have proved in tune with the times. “Unlike loaves which take up a lot of space and need to be refrigerat ed overnight, forms are smaller and rise upwards which takes less space in the refrigerator and in the oven – ultimately that’s more ecological and saves on energy bills,” she says.
Moreover, these smaller sizes ensure there’s less chance it’ll go hard and to waste after pur chase. “Because we use forms to bake our bread, they hold more water in the dough which makes the bread last longer. Basically, our bread is good to the last, final crumb,” she adds.
But it’s not just her bread that has been a hit. Though the dessert choices don’t often change, when they do the reac tion reveals much. “You should have seen what happened when I stopped making jagodzianki,” she laughs. “It was not a pretty sight".
• pipeline plans have been laid for allergen-free bread.
• Go back for more and some thing different. Things change for the good at Rdest and you may be surprised what your new favorite will become. -KD
RDEST ul. Puławska 38, fb.com/Rdestpiekarnia
If ever a marriage was made in heaven, it was this summer’s coupling of Mysia 3 and Reginabar – two cult destinations cut from the same philosophical cloth.
First off, let’s introduce Mysia 3 to those that aren’t any the wiser – set in the former Com munist censorship office, this department store out-hips the competition with a collection of brands and shops that go far beyond the standards you expect. Don’t believe us? Then check out the Leica camera emporium or the vinyl records at Asfalt. It’s a place that seeks to ‘inspire’ those that visit, and in this it succeeds.
Then there’s Reginabar. Created by the same trio behind MOD, it’s confidently positioned on the frontline of cool – mixing Little Italy and China Town, this slice of ethnic NYC has become the gathering ground for the Warsaw’s most wanted: 30-year-old crypto traders, selfie-taking influ encers, fashion students and upcoming celebs. If it sounds a bit up its own arse, then it most certainly isn’t – everyone gets along here, making it one of the best vibes in town.
Buoyed by their own success, Reginabar have now opened another location, this one snuck in an extension slapped onto the back walls of Mysia 3. Small in size, it’s taken all that’s great about the original whilst adapt ing those things to the Mysia 3 address – that means earlier working hours (in terms of both opening and closing), and an atmosphere that sets itself equally well to morning coffee, a working lunch or after-office drink.
IT'S GOT THE LOOK! The work of Anna Szczęsny
and Grzegorz Hasik, it’s little wonder the interior has already seduced king-making lifestyle titles such as Vogue and Elle Described by some as “rem iniscent of the belly folds of a Chinese Buddha”, others might say the powder pink bar is more redolent of a giant vulva –either way, it boldly dominates the visual horizon. As for the rest, that’s a neat assembly of primrose-colored tiled tables, sky blue seats and stainless steel. And to top it all off, there’s bursts of greenery to soothe the senses.
The menu is small, but every thing on it seems to shout: ‘order me!’. In this respect, the pizza is essential, and proves nothing like expected. If the original Reginabar is bestknown for its leopard-spotted pizzas, this new venture of theirs presents this staple di etary requirement in a witty new way – on square’s of inch-thick sourdough bread. Found under a layer of coin-sized pepperoni slices, the Number 4 pizza comes recommended.
Reginabar’s love of China Town has also made the jour ney to Mysia 3, and that involves around a dozen choices such as Cantonese-style beef in sweet & sour sauce and the best-sell
ing General Tso’s Chicken – consider it the perfect blend of spice, tang and deep-fried goodness. As for dessert, the red velvet cake is nothing if not a big, dramatic wallop of buttery chocolate tastes. All things con sidered, this is food designed to make you feel good about the world.
Though closing relatively early (8 p.m. from what we can de termine), those who head here without sampling the cocktails should be punished with twenty lashes. Classic highballs aside, visit for fun and flirty cocktails with an Asian spin: refreshing but with a lightly spiced twist, the ‘lemonade rum cheng tng’ was our pick of the bunch.
That Mysia 3 and Reginabar have aligned together has made for the perfect Tinder match –with each priding themselves on their sense of urban diversity and youthful chic, it’s a pairing you can’t help but love. Strong in both its substance and presentation, it’s a place you wish good things upon – and in turn, they wish good things on you. With each bill coming with a fortune cookie, the tendency is to leave Reginabar in positive spirits.
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That Mysia 3 and Reginabar have aligned together has made for the perfect Tinder match...
Sure, there have been no shortage of ill-ad vised catastrophes, but by in large War saw’s track record when it comes to Mexican food has overall been pretty strong. In recent times, that’s meant vegan miracles from Momencik, the street style capers of Senor Lucas, and the double-pronged
revival of the Blue Cactus in Elektrownia and Norblin.
And aside from that mot ley handful, La Sirena have continued to do a good job of showcasing the more nuanced side to this addictive cuisine. So all things considered, we’ve had it pretty good here in Warsaw. Now though, things have got even better with the opening of
Santa Catrina.
With so much of Powiśle rebuilt in the form of pricey, glass apartment blocks, happening upon a street like Radna is a pleasure in itself. A quiet, leafy enclave, it feels a world away from the hip happenings to be found on Dobra and Solec.
From the skilled hand of Isabel Balderas comes a Mexican restaurant to treasure…Immediately identified by the flowers that have been placed on the façade, Santa Catrina’s address was formerly the home of Veg Deli, and evidence of their tenure remains inside courtesy of a neon sign that announces ‘In Food We Trust’.
Santa Catrina can be best described as ‘cheerful’. Themed on Día de Muertos, the simple design makes use of copious floral additions and jaunty skull decorations based on José Gua dalupe Posada’s prints of La Calavera Catrina. Look up, and you’ll even see some skeletons whirring about around the re
volving fan. Even on the darkest of days, the tall windows allow for plenty of light to come tum bling in, and the high spirits are underscored by a multi-national crowd babbling in different tongues – sitting on the creaky mezzanine, we found ourselves surrounded by a cheerful troop of Mexican, Colombian and American expats.
Known for her long stint at Dos Tacos, chef Isabel Balderas has long been seen as Poland’s leading authority on Mexican food – since splitting with Dos Tacos to go her own way, that her restaurant has already been featured in the media of her native country says much about the hype surrounding this venture. Raised in Puebla, her food has even come endorsed by Juan Sandoval, Mexico’s Ambassador to Poland. Jointly running Santa Catrina with her Polish husband, that this is a long-envisioned passion project is clear in all the details.
Not one thing we’ve tried missed the mark, and that goes for not just our visit but subse
quent home delivery orders as well. For starters, empanadas packed with broad bean paste and chipotle chile come with a satisfying crunch, though for something a little less familiar consider the molletes – de scribed as traditional openfaced sandwiches, these come heaped with refried beans, melted cheese and chorizo.
Non-standard for Warsaw, main courses, meanwhile, include chilaquiles – lightly friend corn chips served in an irresistible mess of grilled beef, fried egg, tomato chipotle sauce and fried egg. Of course, those wishing to tread more familiar paths can also do so via the choice of quesadillas, burritos and tacos. Marinated in orang es and a natural dye from the seeds of the Achiote fruit, the cochinita pork is the best filling of all – we would happily survive on it for the rest of the year. If there is a weakness, then it’s the seeming lack of any fatal salsas. For sure, these are in the chef’s skill set, so we expect this issue to be corrected in the imminent future – when eating Mexican food, we’re not alone in wanting to stare death in the face after imbibing a warhead disguised as a salsa.
This, however, can be over looked – at least for now. This is cooking of such joy and flavor, it’s impossible not to leave without your mood significant ly altered. And helping that, find a range of mezcals and margaritas to aid in that journey. Serving also Piqueras organic wine and that classic staple hangover cure, the Michelada, it’s hard to see this place not becoming anything less than a legend.
“ This is cooking of such joy and flavor, it’s impossible not to leave without your mood significantly alteredSanta Catrina ul. Radna 14, santacatrina.com.pl
A little bit of Italy awaits inside a tiny bar with a mighty, big heart…
BY KEVIN DEMARIA
e’ve been around long enough to remember the birth of Warsaw’s cocktail culture – a time when, by in large, the places on the leader board were all content to look the same. Laughable now when you think about it, but in those days to be considered a legitimate cocktail bar you needed to look like a first class airport lounge: slick, suave and totally generic. How the worm has turned.
Today, it’s all about estab lishing a mood and a message; having a personality to convey. Failing to do so means you’re already doomed. So how do Va Bene Cichetti fare in all of this? In a nutshell, very well indeed. Great things come in small packages, and VBC are a case in point. Emitting a warm red glow that can be seen from Mars, it’s a place that draws
Wpunters in like a Siren’s song.
Themed on the spirit of Venice, the design saw the re cruitment of NOKE Architects, a studio that interpreted their brief to quite stunning effect. Rich in golds and operatic reds, these give way to aquatic colors that become noticeable the moment you glance to your feet – visiting the bathroom down stairs, meanwhile, is akin to being submerged in the waters, so dominant are the turquoise shades.
Back on ground level, and de tails abound: table legs painted in gondola stripes; a travertine bar; and a mosaic spanning one wall made from shards of Venetian mirrors. Fundamen tally, however, its size is both a pleasure and a problem – with the outdoor terrace most likely being deleted sometime in or der, the compact interior stands to face further pressure. That said, it’s this sense of intimacy
that many come for – this is not the anonymous cocktail lounge of old, instead it’s represen tative of new wave Warsaw: a place that feels private and personal.
Saliently, that’s not merely down to the design. On entry –having first passed under their neon lion – you’re straight away face-to-face with the bartender. We can think of many places where that would not work, but at VBC that most likely means being greeted by Kuba, the for mer cocktail prince of Foton.
And oh yes, the cocktails here work. Subtle works of art, the speed and efficiency with which these are prepared belie the quality at play. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six versions of the negroni, not to mention a tall and cool drink identified as the Amaro Thirsty: oleo saccharum (the mix from sugared rinds of citrus), Angoustura bitter, fernet branca, Amaro Averna, soda and rhubarb sugar. Matched with a concise list of Prosecco and Martini-based cocktails, it’s a drinks choice that slides in sync with a chic crowd where –quite often – the ladies outnum ber the chaps.
Launched by the same cou ple behind Va Bene on Tamka (a similarly snug locale, only that venture inspired by Rome), food also plays a part – there’s not much to choose from, but these go far beyond the bar snacks of old. Find here oyster tempura with yuzu, mango and ponzu or calamari served with a dash of coriander mayo. Small snacks basically, but detail-driven and quality-led. Much like the place itself.
Va Bene Cicchetti Waryńskiego 9C, fb.com/vabenecicchettiThe site of the legendary Zaremba atelier proves tailor made for the brand’s new café-bar concept…
Indelibly associated with the finest bespoke tailoring practic es, the name Zaremba should already resonate with a certain class of gentleman. Founded by Edward Zaremba in 1894, the family’s first atelier was found in the Great Theater, an area which at the time was the nexus of Warsaw’s social life. Fitting out the stars of the era, as well as Tsarist officers, Edward’s
fame spread even further when one such officer commissioned a suit with hidden armor for an upcoming duel. Quickly, word of his skills traveled and he found his work featured in press as far afield as London, Paris, Vienna and Moscow.
Staying in the family ever since, the studio even managed to thrive during Communism de spite near constant harassment from the authorities. Relocating to Nowogrodzka 15 in 1956, business continued to be brisk, not least thanks to their carefully hidden stocks of British wool. When, in 1979, a deal was struck by the American TV producer Sheldon Reynolds to film the serial Sherlock Holmes and Doctor Watson in Warsaw, Za remba were naturally selected to produce the outfits.
For decades, Zaremba could be found touting their services at Nowogrodzka 15 – however, with interest in their madeto-measure services cresting once more (not least after they won the competitive process to design a tie for Poland’s Presi dency of the EU), their success demanded a larger location. Moving their HQ across the road, this presented the problem of how to harness their vacated premises. Choosing to diversi fy and develop the brand in a different way, it was on Maciej Zaremba’s prompting that a barcafé was opened in its place. Welcoming its first guests over the summer, it’s already become the talk of the town.
Given the history of the brand, you expect something special
– and damn right, it really is just that. With its entrance signaled by a towering brass palm, this is a place that feasts on its own sense of classic history – to the point that even the retro lettering has been kept above the portal announcing it as the domain of Tadeusz Zaremba.
Inside, the history lesson continues, and it is almost compulsory to gaze at the black and white family photographs that adorn the walls and chart the successes of the family business. Dominated by shining golden surfaces, terrazzo floors and plush blue velvet finishes, these elements are further accented by features such as the rosette-shaped chandelier holder on the ceiling above. Small but luxuriously appointed, it’s a place of strong personality and impeccable taste.
Operating from Wednesday through till Sunday, inspirations were lifted from Italy – the kind of Milanese haunts that seamlessly blur the functions of café and bar. Bearing this in mind, perhaps the most interesting hour to visit is that 5 p.m. point where the num ber of coffee sippers are equally matched by those ordering cocktails.
Here, both come recom mended. Cutting no corners, the coffee angle has already made waves with their espresso shots becoming something of a favorite. Matched with light bites such as salmon panini, daylight hours become a blissful affair of daydreams and gossip.
Neither do the cocktails let the side down. The Hemingway is the big seller (Maraschino, grapefruit, coconut sugar and
Zaremba’s own rum blend), but with a shelf like theirs trust the staff to fix their own thought ful takes on global classics – asking for a Dark & Stormy, we received a beautiful compo sition of Thomas Henry ginger beer served with Dos Maderas 5 + 5 triple aged rum-sherry. Gorgeous. Adding to the subtle Italian vibe, choose also from the likes of Limoncello Spritz or a crisp Birra Moretti lager.
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Inside, the history lesson continues, and it is almost compulsory to gaze at the black and white family photo graphs
Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…
broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Recognizing that not everyone likes beer (!), they also fix a mean cocktail – the Browar Sour, based on Ostoya vodka, is brill. Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, it’s become one of the Insider’s favorite watering holes.
ul. Andersa 23
Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.
ul. Nowy Świat 6/12
Running from October 13th to October 15th, the latest installment of Poland’s premier craft beer festival will see over 1,200 beers poured from 500 taps. Priced from PLN 20 (for single entry) to PLN 39 (3-day pass), the festival will again take place in Legia’s sprawling hospitality lounges. Beer aside, it’ll also present street food vendors, arcade games, workshops, lectures and panels. Set to attract over 20,000 visitors, it’s an event that simply can’t be missed.
Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid socialist era arcades.
Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment.
ul. Lwowska 17 Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness. Proudly Belarussian run, the welcome from the owners is warm, sincere and never short on cheer. Stay here for an hour and you’ll feel you’ve known them for years. For booze, there’s
twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks.
ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Beer is central to the swank-looking Browar Warszawski, and running that side of operations is the skilled Dawid Bąk. There’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of
ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)
It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was
arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap? Yeah, by that we mean small, little places with six or seven beers on the go. The rotation of new finds is balanced well with traditional faves..
ul. Nowogrodzka 4
To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Evoking the look of a disused power station, the Double D. sports rugged brickwork and a scuffed style with the industrial ized look amped up through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.
ul. Wilcza 29
Get down with the regulars at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal. With just five taps, this place is about quality not quantity.
ul. Żurawia 32/34
Appealing to a far younger, more par ty-oriented crowd than the area’s other craft joints, find a sloshed audience weaving around a neon lit room with black and white doodles by some of Poland’s biggest street artists. The beer offer is highly commendable, and even includes a beer slushy machine!
ul. Nowogrodzka 12
Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.
Reflecting Warsaw’s dynamic, modern spirit, the city is officially regarded as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet – we need a telephone book to list all the worthwhile restaurants, so instead make do with a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…
ul. Kopernika 25
The chef worked the stove at Tel Aviv for many years, so you’re in good hands that know the meaning of versatility – they’re also behind the creation of the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots, onions and red cabbage. As for dessert, check the brownie – topped with whipped cream and caramelized popcorn, it’s arguably the best vegan dessert we’ve ever held in our mouths. The big star, however, is the chimichanga.
ul. Poznańska 13
Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.
LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO
ul. Krucza 23/31
Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular
guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.
ul. Poznańska 16
You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this
pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.
ul. Mokotowska 58
Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good.
ul. Koszykowa 49A
Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously suc cessful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.
Finlandzka 12
We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks.
ul. Hoża 62
Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.
For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…
ul. Grzybowska 56
Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!
ul. Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin
Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its
styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas.
BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE ul. Nowy Świat 58
Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less
hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.
ul. Twarda 4
With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. However, the main menu has also been extended to include such hits as beef tenderloin and grilled dorado.
ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54
Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. Many locations, inc.
ul. Widok 8
The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!
ul. Koszykowa 1
Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range
from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.
Al. Solidarności 61 & 84
With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.
ul. Oleandrów 8
Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers.
ul. Piękna 54
Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.
ul. Pańska 85
Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in
any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.
ul. Hoża 41
Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town!
ul. Solec 38
Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.
ul. Krucza 23/31
How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.
ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2
What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit down space – and a lovely one at that; the grassy back garden is a true summer pleasure. Recognized as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this country has ever seen, find huge bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes as well as our standard order: fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce.
Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s a handpicked selection of tried and tested faves…
ul. Hoża 58/60
The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside.
A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room! Summer sips include rose matcha tonic, Aperol espresso, and a nitro that’s to die for.
ul. Nowolipki 13
Al. Waszyngtona 30/36
Doubling as a vintage furniture shop, find every surface decked out with retro discoveries that can be yours for a song: from Marilyn clocks to rotary dial phones to that Virgin Mary table lamp that you’ve always secretly coveted. And that’s before you cast your eyes on the Jetson period chairs; novelty teapots; antique treasure chest; and S&M themed tableware. The drinks are equally unorthodox and include non-alcoholic wines, kombuchas, homemade lemonades, alternative colas and a strong range of specialty coffee.
ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42)
Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored cobbled prewar Próżna street. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant
lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check their original address on Wilcza.
Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be over looked either.
ul. Andersa 6
Attached to one of the hippest barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. The cold brew rates as our summer favorite!
ul. Niemcewicza 3
Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.
ul. Elektoralna 11
Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.
ul. Elsterska 10
Divide Hałas into three sections: first, a tiny garden area with a couple of park benches; then, downstairs, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Finally, at the back, discover a Nor dic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty.
ul. Łucka 18
This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend.
ul. Puławska 48
An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.
ul. Wilcza 17
An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embel lished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.
ul. Schroegera 80
Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoe string budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side. Stor
ul. Tamka 33Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.
ul. Bagatela 11
Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit. As for the coffee, they work real magic with Ethiopian beans in particular. With autumn hitting, its proximity to Łazienki make it a perfect stop after a leafy walk.
From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…
stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.
ul. Wilcza 9A
You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is nat ural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, but it makes this list for a super cool design that’s involves plenty of raw materials and a vast green fleet of tumbling plants – keeping them alive is a quite brilliant irrigational contraption set around the steel frames that support it all. It sure is a quite a sight and one that gets more pronounced the later it gets.
ul. Emilii Plater 25
ul. Nowy Świat 54/5
This gaming bar is strange in every respect: among other decorations discover glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks and a toilet evoking Game of Thrones. Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to mimic a 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum!
ul. Hoża 61
Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman.
ul. Poznańska 12
Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some
Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.
For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.
Al. Armii Ludowej 14
Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure
sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!
ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)
Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte.
ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)
Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside –it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery.
ul. Mazowiecka 12Looking dark and sensual, this tw o-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Can dles flicker, atmosphere crackles –moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.
Pl. Konesera 4 This the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of
lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country.
ul. Ząbkowska 6
Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eat en Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, you
then need all the luck in the world to bulldoze through the scrum that has gathered to listen to Balkan rockers, Afro-Latin bands and the spectacularly named Bum Bum Orchestra.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16
Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the courtyard. As for drinks, there’s some classic cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-year-old carriage house at the end. Warning: cards only!
ul. Bagatela 10
There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor (over 400 replica skulls) as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebra tion of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal. Although no Halloween plans have yet to be announced, this promises to again be the place to be seen for your annual dollop of spooky fun.
Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw…
concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beau tiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England.
ul. Żurawia 22
When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.
Fort Służew 1B
ul. Puławska 24
Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.
ul. Nowogrodzka 10
Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an inter esting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations
that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. In summer, the courtyard is a must.
ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and
Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well –immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.
ul. Grzybowska 43A
Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in
an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flam mkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).
ul. Jazdów 1B
Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisti cated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.
ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)
Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.
ul. Górnośląska 24
You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleas ing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year,
that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.
MIĘSNY ul. Walecznych 64
To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the best informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. A primal joy, do your feasting inside a white-tiled interior or on the terrace that sprawls out in front.
MUNJA ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)
Positioned in the heart of War saw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-toceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.
MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI
ul. Londyńska 16
Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is –head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family.
When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…
jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contem porary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.
ul. Mokotowska 48
Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.
ul. Rozbrat 44A
The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organical ly joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.
ul. Ossolińskich 3
Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes recon structed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include
ul. Jagiellońska 22 Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘One To Watch’ title at the Insider’s 2016 Best of Warsaw awards. And wow, this newbie is also one to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moon-shaped mir rors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.
Al. Jerozolimskie 3
Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes
a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington.
ul. Wilcza 73
Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflow er martini.
ul. Wilcza 46
For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowi na. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. Celebrating its tenth year, this place has become a stalwart.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14
Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this sub terranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel.
ul. Rozbrat 20
This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of.
Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s lead ership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.
ul. Elektryczna 2
Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic. Specializing in ‘doing the unexpected’ with fish, chef and co-owner Martin Gimenez Castro has created an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. An ecstasy of tastes, Tuna succeeds in reimagining everything you thought you knew about eating fish.
Such is the power of the backdrop, Podrygi don’t need to do much with their outdoor decorations, and as such keep it simple with black decking and a couple of hammocks bookending the seats. The cocktails and wine choice are as sophisticated as the setting.
ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9
The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engag ing and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
ul. Poznańska 7
An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!
ul. Hoża 27
Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly
zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons.
Al. Jerzolimskie 3
Past an open pair of wrought iron gates, and up a neatly pebbled path, visitors find themselves sauntering into the neatly clipped gardens of the National Museum – the pristine immensity of what lies ahead is striking, and even more so when the modernist architecture is illuminated at night.
Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when you discreetly enquire about their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.
ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)
Warsaw likes its rooftops, and at the Puro you have what many consider to be the best. Alright, so the view isn’t actually that good (it’s relatively low and largely obscured), but the atmosphere never fails. Bristling with plants, candles and beautiful people, enjoy inventive cocktails that feel as eclectic as the design-forward interior.
Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…ul. Wilcza 43
NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera!
Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the American ized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.
ul. Poznańska 21
Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curva ceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complement ing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors.
ul. Moliera 6
One of the year’s hottest openings, Rascal is reputedly Europe’s largest bar specializing in natural wines. Looking stripped down to maximize the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers that have made this their domain.
ul. Koszykowa 1
Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s
Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, a ‘Girls on Top’ menu featuring drinks such as Baby One More Time and Wannabe. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.
ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B
Remember the word ‘hipster’?
It was pretty much coined at Warszawa Powiśle. Maturing since the times when this former ticket hall was all chipboard and cracks, nowadays this saucer-shaped building has been reenergized as a high-end cocktail den. One constant remains: everyone still prefers to drink outdoors. Should you do so, rush-hour brings a torrent of humanity to observe whilst sipping on something long and fizzy.
CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1
Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel… that alone makes it a Halloween must!
To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…
canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere!
ul. E. Plater 14
Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6
ul. Madalińskiego 7
Specializing in ‘little plates’ of revised Polish classics, this charming bricklined recess has the kind of welcoming warmth you’d expect from a place of its size – a family of hamsters would find it small, so do book ahead or otherwise there’s little chance you’ll snag a seat. Your foresight will reward you with a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity.
ul. Wiślana 8
Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!
ul. Mokotowska 8
Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted
with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.
ul. Wilcza 29
AWarm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorn ing the walls stare out like blank
The retro-minded interior is awash with ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tab letops and bold blue colors. A witty homage to the classic eateries of old, it’s fun just to look at. But the food is equally enjoyable with the principal draw being pierogi featuring such fillings as sweet cheese and orange peel. Lovingly made by hand inside a white-tiled kitchen which you can peer right into, the food goes well beyond the mediocre standards that this tourist strip is famed for.
ul. Targowa 81
The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contem porary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well.
After Poland’s success at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the Insider looks to three domestic brands that all style mavens should look for this season coming… by Krystyna Spark
This season Copenha gen fashion week expe rienced unprecedented interest. From Emma Chamberlain seated front row at GANNI, to Sophia Roe launching her new label – the Garment – the capital of Denmark was on everyone’s radar (or rather phone screen).
While Warsaw may have to wait its turn before a set of comparably enviable fashion labels host a week of live, invite-only runway shows, it can already boast a range of innovative brands, carving their paths out towards stardom. Though you may not have heard of them before, you can be sure that these labels will be (or already have been) around for a while.
Couple DansantThere Is No More! creates orig inal handbags and accessories, all in keeping with zero waste practices. Calling to mind a Victorian reticule, the brand’s drawstring bag is a strong fa vorite among customers. Easily transitioning from day to night, its unstructured shape will add an air of effortlessness to any outfit ensemble. Every piece by There Is No More! is handmade lending each bag an air of mys tery and adding to the original story that it carries within. Their unusual patterns and textures are a further expression of individuality, making sure that those who carry this small accessory are far from banal. thereisnomore.com
Veteran Tomasz Ossoliński maintains a strong, unwavering position among Polish fashion brands. Though known primar ily for men’s tailoring, the brand now includes both a menswear and womenswear line. Dress ing Nobel Prize laureates and Academy Award recipients, Tomasz Ossoliński is a master in his craft. With over 25-years of experience, the designer debuted his first collection at the young age of 16. His subsequent placement at one of Poland’s most recognized state-owned tailoring factories led to the role of head designer – the youngest designer to be employed by the organization.
Today the label focuses on batch launches of high-qual ity original designs as well as fulfilling orders for uniforms for some if the country’s most prestigious institutions. The 2019 launch of Ossoliński’s
ready-to-wear line opened the doors to a wider customer base by offering readily available clothing online at friendlier price-points. ossolinski.com
Need to update your classic trench? Look no further than Couple Dansant – a young brand updating vintage outer wear. Recycling old clothing is nothing new. Few, however, have the creativity and unique fashion force necessary to
launch such a personal project. Created by two friends, Couple Dansant stole hearts by lining the collars and cuffs of vintage blazers and trench coats with brightly colored feathers and faux shearling. Adding pizzaz to these traditional pieces immediately attracted interest and their resulting similarity to one or two expensive for eign brands was all that was needed to firmly establish this Polish label as one of the most desirable of today. coupledansant.com.pl
Tomasz Ossoliński There Is No More!
The National Museum in Warsaw celebrates its 160th anniversary by bringing together over 500 works by the monumental Polish artist popularly known as Witkacy. Though focused on the early 20th century, it tackles issues very much of our time. Social speed, development of new technologies and cultural stagnation are all motifs present in the artist’s work. Killing himself on learning that the Soviet Union had invaded Poland in 1939, he was the very image of the troubled artist; but though drug-ad dled and plagued by demons, few artists have made such a cultural impact on Poland. This is a must-see ex hibition, one that will captivate audiences with its variety of artistic mediums and unique grouping of works.
Witkacy: Seismograph of the Acceleration Age National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.pl
As per tradition, October brings with it the annual Warsaw Film Festival… foreign film, and interaction is further encouraged by a se ries of meetings and seminars with those involved in the film industry. Divided into differ ent categories, such as best screenplay, director, docu mentary, etc., overall winners will be chosen by a selected jury. This year, due to the war in Ukraine, eighteen films that would have been shown at the Odesa Film Festival will instead be shown in Warsaw.
Starting out in 2000 in front of audi ences that barely numbered a dozen foreign guests, the Warsaw Film Festival has since developed to become one of Poland’s best-known cultural festivals – something that was recognized globally when, in 2009, the WFF became one of 14 international film fests to be endorsed by the International Federation of Film Producers Association.
Showcasing the best of Pol ish, European and international cinema, the audience will also be offered the chance to get involved by voting for the best
Running from October 14th to October 23rd, screenings will this year take place in Kino Atlantic and Multikion Złote Tarasy. For a schedules and ticket info, see: wff.pl.
The film festival aside, Warsaw has a cluster of cinemas that far exceed the sterile multiplexs you may otherwise be used to…
Amondo Żurawia 20, kinoamondo.pl
Having dodged bankruptcy after a celebrity-endorsed crowd funding campaign over the sum mer, Amondo are back to doing what they do best – showing arthouse films inside the small est screening room in Warsaw. Holding 20 and 25 people in two rooms, other bonuses go to a VHS rental service that allows people to watch cassettes on their own video player.
Narbutta 50A, iluzjon.fn.org.pl
Designed in Socialist Realist form and opened in 1956, it’s since been magically restored so as to evoke the yesteryear’s air. Featuring beautiful neon and a stunning rotunda, it’s famed not just for its architecture, but a repertoire slanted towards arthouse flicks and classics such as Singing In The Rain and Belle De Jour. After, make time to discuss what you’ve seen in their café-bar.
Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin), kinogram.pl
Prices top out at PLN 55, but noone ever complains. Warsaw’s most luxurious cinema features a vintage style reminiscent of the golden era of Hollywood. Equipped with velvet sofas and plush armchairs – each with their own little table – screening rooms accommodate from 48 to 112 people. The cocktails served in the bar are A-Class, and the whole place is dog friendly as well. It’s one-of-a-kind.
Pl. Defilad 1, kinoteka.pl
Although the program isn’t quite as maverick as some of its competitors, it remains far more exotic than Warsaw’s mainstream screening rooms – and who doesn’t like the idea of watching a film inside the Pal ace of Culture? Decorated with sturdy pillars, red carpets and brass fittings, the atmosphere is magical. And why not a drink beforehand? Do so in Charlie by the entrance, a cocktail bar that evokes the bar that Jack Tor rance props up in The Shining.
Krakowskie Przedmieście
21/23, kinokultura.pl
With a name like that you al ready know what you’re getting – gorgeously appointed, the vibe is rounded out with a defiantly artistic program: most recently,
that involved a review of Azer baijani cinema. The adjoining Paradiso bar-restaurant is a spa cious zone in which to convene both before and after.
Marszałkowska 28, kinoluna.pl
Looking a bit grim from the out side, Luna is a Warsaw classic. Celebrating its 60th birthday in July, its name was inspired by the Soviet space program of the same title. Often hailed as Warsaw’s favorite cinema, the repertoire has a distinctly alter native bent. With Pl. Zbawiciela and Oleandrów close by, there’s no shortage of post-film gather ing grounds either.
this star features an outstanding café with original floor tiles, vin tage posters, a healthy selection of books and a wacky ceiling mural. There is nothing ordinary about this place and that applies also to its film listings. And for kids, they also play their hand at hosting morning workshops and other educational activities.
Andersa 5, kinomuranow.pl
Opened in 1951 on a plot that had originally been earmarked to serve as a carpark, Kino Muranów was Poland’s first two-screen cinema and quickly became the beating heart of the area’s cultural life. Designed in bombastic Socialist Realist style by Michał Ptic-Borkowski it has retained much of its original splendor whilst simultaneously thriving on a reputation for showcasing independent and often arty films.
Patriotów 44B, stacjafalenica.pl
What a beauty. Found inside a pre-war train station building,
Suzina 6, wck.info.pl
Disclaimer: we’ve not been here since it resumed activity, so instead we can only go on what we’ve heard and read. Notable for its exterior mural of director Andrzej Wajda, this cultural center was launched anew over summer and aside from offering regular arty screenings also touts, allegedly, a huge film library. Random fact: the first shots of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising were fired practically right outside.
Warszawa Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl
Though not a cinema in the strictest of senses, the History Meeting House contains a screening room that shows films twice daily relating to the city’s past. Included in that are films showing ‘Warsaw’s daily life in 1938’, unique amateur films from the inter-bellum, and ‘chronicles’ sourced from Polish Telegraphic Agency.
For followers of the finest, there is no other place to visit this autumn than the Royal Łazienki Museum
Temporarily borrowed from the collection of the Dulwich Picture Gallery in London, visitors to the Royal Łazienki Museum have the chance to view five of some of the most outstanding works ever created by those who were at the forefront of the Dutch, Flemish and Italian
artistic scenes.
Titled ‘Masterpieces for the King?’, the exhibition presents a selection of 17th and 18th century masterpieces that were once purchased by Noel Desenfans, a popular London art dealer, and subsequently advertised as being “acquired for His Majesty, the King of Poland”.
David Teniers the Younger (16101690), Talking villagers in front of the landscape with the church, ca. 1660-70, oil, canvas
Adriaen van der Werff (16591722), The Judgement of Paris, 1716, oil, canvas on an oak board
Adriaen van der Werff
David Teniers the Younger
Rated as one of the best Flemish painters of the 17th century, Teniers the Younger formerly served as the court painter and gallery curator of Archduke Leopold Wil helm Habsburg. Peasant scenes were his specialty, and these included both
tavern scenes and views of rural homesteads. This one serves to almost typify his output, showing as it does two villagers immersed in conver sation whilst making vigorous gestures. Close by, and with his back turned, another seems to urinate while a dog stands about. Picturesque but not short on humor, the whole scene encapsulates the work of Teniers: light and fluid yet also painstakingly delicate.
With his smooth, enamel-like textures and precise atten tion to detail, van der Werff is rightfully remembered as one of the best representatives of his genre. A joy to behold, this painting depicts the slender, dancing bodies of Juno, Minerva and Venus as they dance before Paris, who sits clasping the golden apple that he will award to the most beautiful of the trio. Known to come from the collection of the Duke of Orleans, historians also have knowledge that the painting came into the hands of Desenfans in 1796 – one year after Stanislaus Augustus abdicated.
Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640), Portrait of a Lady, ca.1625, oil, oak plank
Peter Paul Rubens
The work of one of the most prominent artists of the Ba roque era, it’s unknown who Rubens based this portrait on, though some researchers have speculated the subject to be Duchess Catherine Manners, the wife of George Villiers, a.k.a. the Duke of Buckingham. Acquired on behalf of King Stanislaus Augustus, it was one of four paintings belonging to the King that are known to have been purportedly painted by Rubens. Superbly rendered, the picture has been widely lauded for its delicate brush strokes despite remaining partially unfinished.
Salvator Rosa (1615-1673), Soldiers Playing Dice, ca. 1656-58, oil on canvas
Associated with scenes show ing hermits, vagabonds and soldiers depicted against wild and romantic landscapes, Ro sa’s original style remains char acterized by its expressive, tex tural techniques – and almost twitchy, nervous brushstrokes. This painting is considered one of the finest in his oeuvre, and also quite unique – the soldiers do not complement the land scape, but instead are the very subject. Though it is unknown if this painting ever reached the collection of the Polish King, it would have for certain stood out seeing that the King’s gallery reputedly lacked Italian works of particularly high quality.
Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641), Madonna and Child, ca. 1630-32, oil on canvas
Previously working in Antwerp, Genoa, Florence and Rome, and then later in London under the patronage of King Charles I, van Dyck is celebrat ed for his sophisticated court portraits as well as historical paintings. Shrouded in in richly draped folds of silk fabric, this work presents the Madonna, her eyes raised to the heavens whilst the baby Jesus stands on her lap. Regarded as one of the artist’s most famous re ligious compositions, it’s since been widely reproduced. As to its previous owners, these are though to include the Par is-based collector Madame de Julienne and the art trader Jean Baptiste Lebrun.
Royal Łazienki Museum ul. Agrykola 1, lazienki-krolewskie.plRegarded as one of the most exceptional painters of the period, the Tin-Roofed Palace explores the work of Jan Piotr Norblin…
An admirer of Rembrandt, and one of the lead ing artists of the Stanislavian era, the works of Jan Piotr Norblin can be viewed in the TinRoofed Palace until December 11th. Born Jean-Pierre Norblin de la Gourdaine, the artist was trained to paint battle scenes, however, his professional life would come to be defined more for his depictions of idyllic scenes and courtly life.
Though French by blood, it was in Warsaw that the artist truly emerged and to this day his works have the ability to charm with their skillful, light lines and attractive colors. Simultaneously, they have be come valued for their histori cal, social and cultural insights relating to the daily lives of those living in the Polish-Lith uanian Commonwealth in the second half of the 18th century.
Featuring 125 works
sourced from the collection of the Royal Castle in Warsaw, this exhibition presents a wide assortment of oil paintings, gouaches, watercolors, ink drawings and etchings, many of which were acquired between 2018 and 2022 thanks to fund ing provided by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage. Further complementing the collection are works donated earlier this year by the Ciecha nowiecki Foundation.
Living between 1745 and
Church Fête in the Bielany District of Warsaw on the Monday after Whitsun, 1784, gouache, watercolour, brush, paper, The Royal Castle in Warsaw
Dance of the Dogs, c. 1815, gouache, watercolour, black and brown ink, brush, pencil, paper, The Royal Castle in Warsaw
1830, Jan Piotr as he would later become known studied under the tutelage of Francesco Casanova. In 1774, he arrived to Poland on the invitation of Adam and Izabela Czartoryski and was initially employed by the couple to teach their children how to draw. Quickly, word of his talent got around not least because of the way he managed to capture the rococo style as influenced by Antoine Watteau. In particu lar, he gained fame for his fête galante compositions – scenes that depicted refined company at open-air festivities, surround ed by the lush vegetation of sentimental garden settings.
Norblin’s work also won the recognition of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and several of his works found their way into the monarch’s collection. Norblin was also fascinated by everyday life, and many of his works would portrayed markets, fairs and crowded taverns.
Known for his chronicler’s flair, he was further fond of painting traveling traders, musicians, beggars and the elderly.
Taking a keen interest in
The Royal Łazienki in Warsaw. View of the South Pond from the Terrace of the Palace on the Isle, 1788, gouache, water colour, brush, paper, The Royal Castle in Warsaw
Poland’s complex and turbulent politics, his work also docu mented the Kościuszko Uprising and events related to the adop tion of the May 3 Constitution.
As such, his works are among the most valuable iconographic sources of the times – of the crisis, restoration and fall of the Polish-Lithuanian Common wealth. Although he returned to France in 1804, Poland remained high in his mind, and he continued to create works
inspired by his thirty-years residence in the country. This exhibition is nothing if not a fitting tribute to this outstanding artist.
Jan Piotr Norblin. Sentimental Reporter
When: September 9-December 11
Where: Tin-Roofed Palace (pl. Zamkowy 4)
For More info: zamek-krolewski.pl
“ Known for his chronicler’s flair, he was further fond of painting traveling traders, musicians, beggars and the elderly.
As Warsaw enters its most visually entrancing period, the hunt is on for the perfect wardrobe to complement the season’s changing moods and colors –to find the answers, look no further than Designer Outlet Warszawa.
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by Krystyna Spark
With Halloween upon us, it’s time to get those pumpkins carved –but before you do, why not make a day of finding them in the first place? Operating until October 31st, the pumpkin farm in Powsin is the place to do just that, offering as it does a mix of recreational and educational activities that make it ideal for a short daytrip outside Warsaw. From our perspective, we recommend a group ticket which includes a two-hour workshop, a disco inside a haystack maze, access to their mini petting zoo and, of course, the main event: the pumpkin search.
During the workshops children will have the opportunity to learn about what’s involved in the harvesting of pumpkins, dis cover the many varieties of pumpkins that exist, and find out what dishes they can be used for. The mini zoo, meanwhile, includes pigs, goats, rabbits, hens, chickens, baby geese and a six-week-old alpaca named Bambi. Farma Dyn also host birthday parties and can organize lunches around a campfire involving sausages and hot tea. For more: farmadyn.pl
The oldest children’s puppet theater in Poland is back for a new season of enthralling performances and events. What could put you more in the Halloween spirit than a ventriloquist’s puppet coming to life? Though they may sound eerie at first, puppet shows are Teatr Baj’s specialty with each one tailored to the age of its young audience. The theater offers English-language audio translation and is equipped to accommodate children with disa bilities and learning difficulties. It’s a space that truly celebrates every soul – even the ones lurking in the shadows, waiting to be animated on stage.
October sees the premiere of “Peter Pan and Wendy,” a story known to all, yet newly adapted by the in-house acting crew. If you don’t have time for a show, but happen to be around the Praga district where the theater is located, do stop in for a tour of the Puppet Gallery – a room dedicated to Teatr Baj’s renowned collection of puppets. For more: teatrbaj.pl
The 9th edition of the Kids Kino International Film Festival ends on October 2nd, however, all films will be available to watch online until October 23rd. Aimed at children between the ages of four and twelve the repertoire includes a selection of animated films, shorts, documentaries and adaptations of beloved books by an array of international authors. With the theme of Halloween in mind, The Insider has chosen two titles that you may wish to carve your pumpkin to: The Websters (dir. Katarína Kerekesová, 2022) and Dummie the Mummy (dir. Pim van Hoeve, 2014). For more: kinodzieci.pl/english-info/
Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Pro gramme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative pro gram (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montes sori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary educa tion. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,
Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are high ly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@
theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
An intimate, interna tional, English-speak ing preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristepping stones.pl
in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692
411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
Treating
pupils with mutual respect but not at
the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimary school.pl
Located in Mokotów, the Mon nett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl
Guided by trained specialists, stu dents are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges.
ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implement ing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
ranging from 30-70%, discover over 130 designer brands within a stunning complex designed to effect the look of Warsaw’s Baroque historic center. Labels include Lacoste, Boss, Made in M (with MaxMara, Marella, Max&Co. and Pennyblack), Karl Lagerfeld and Twinset. ul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), designeroutletwarszawa.pl
Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl
Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…
The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and
rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vin tage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with
curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-lin ear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.
That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl
Playing a key role in the govern ment’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading
artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec syna gogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
If the throngs and sheer infor mational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of con ditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
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Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl
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Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrownia powisle.com
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Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl
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Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl
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Klif House of Fashion
ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl
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Koneser
Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu
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Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
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Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl
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Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia
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Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
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National Museum
Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl
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The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
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Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
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Fryderyk Chopin Museum
ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
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Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Facto ry), neonmuzeum.org
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Museum of Warsaw
Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl
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POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
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Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/
For those looking to take a piece of Warsaw home with them, how about some local ceramics handmade with love…
Born through Anna Marciniszyn’s passion for porcelain, the items at Nodi Studio should be seen as mandatory additions for any styl ish home. Having studied design at Warsaw’s School of Form (SWPS), it was there that the idea for Nodi first took root.
“I knew instantly that my fu ture career lay in the creation of porcelain,” Marciniszyn tells the Insider. “After graduating I worked at different ceramic studios but following work I’d always find myself creating my own pieces.” These af ter-hours experiments would form the basis of Nodi.
“I love incorporating color into my work so that it adds a little bit of fun to someone’s living space,” she continues. “My goal is to make you smile when you’re drinking your morning coffee.”
Often incorporating soft pastel shades or amusing random details (dinosaurs, it would appear, are something of a favorite motif), Mar ciniszyn’s creations combine creativity with workmanship in a manner that – like contem porary Warsaw – feels fun but chic.
Nodi Studio Wspólna 27A, nodistudio.com
