Warsaw Insider October 2023 #326

#326

AUTUMN PERSPECTIVES

Photography by Dominika Wajda – p. 24

Features:

Another Round! Warsaw Beer Festival – p. 16

City Secrets: hidden sides of northern Mokotów – p. 20

Public Art: the murals of Ochota – p. 28

Reviews: EAT & DRINK

Big Book Café MDM – p. 41

Dyletanci – p. 43

Burgerlab – p. 44

Kubuś Piekarenka – p. 46

Lovers Bar – p. 47

DISCOVER

Farma Dyn – p. 59

The Books – p. 61

Director

Assistant

Sinkiewicz

IF EVER THERE’S A LULL IN CONVERSATION, you can trust an Englishman to panic and start waffling about the weather – it’s an inherent national trait, and one that I’m guilty of perpetuating in more ways than one. Take these forewords as an example – you see, while I’d love for them to be brimming with examples of my wit and wisdom, it’s more likely you’ll find them filled with dull observations about the weather outside.

This time, at least, I have an excuse. Achingly beautiful, it’s in October that autumn hits its zenith and the colours of Warsaw switch from green to gold in the blink of an eye. Then, as the month moves towards its end, the city finds itself dunked inside a bucket of caramel and carrot-coloured paints, glowing and glimmering in these melancholic shades. It’s breath-taking.

Anyway, it’s for this reason we feature the captivating work of photographer Dominika Wajda this issue. Similarly, we’re using this flush of extraordinary weather to tour the murals of Ochota and the unknown sights of northern Mokotów. And in between that, we’ve also got the small matter of some pink dogs, a transparent wall, a beer festival and the usual string of reviews and foodie news. Hope you enjoy it, it’s a banger of an issue!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Intel

Remembering The Ghetto

Contemplative new installation causes Warsaw to pause…

Erected in memory of the Warsaw Ghetto, an installation has been unveiled at the intersection of Grzybowska and Żelazna to honour the tens of thousands of Jews that suffered within its walls. Titled ‘Two Sides of the Wall’,

the thought-provoking work consists of a mirror on one side, and see-through glass on the other. On it, the words ‘Around Us A Sea of Fire’ have been daubed, a reference to the ongoing temporary exhibition at the Polin Museum that explores the civilian tragedy that unfolded during the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.

Prepared jointly by Saatchi & Saathci and Polin, the installation will stand until the end of October. Małgorzata Wajdziak of Saatchi & Saatchi said: “We wanted to draw attention to the Polin exhibition, and in a way that would stop cause busy pedestrians to stop for a moment. The idea of building a symbolic wall that would allow people to freely look through it but only from one side seemed incredibly moving to us.”

Giant Dog Ruffles Warsaw!

Debuting in Ochota, three pink dogs have left the city divided…

Mid-September saw a trio of pink dogs named POOPilek unveiled across the Ochota district. Designed by the artist Olga Prokop-Miśniakiewicz, the installations were created with a dual purpose in mind – to beautify the area’s public space whilst simultaneously reminding residents as to the

importance of cleaning after their pets.

Depicting a pooping dog, the works were produced using recycled material and have been placed in Park Pięciu Sióstr, Park Szczęśliwicki and by Primary School No. 97 on Spiska street. Immediately, however, the works have caused a storm with critics claiming the dogs are a prime example of the city misusing the finances at their disposal – according to one leak, the animals swallowed PLN 45,000 of public funds.

Others, meanwhile, have slammed them for being monstrously kitsch. “The animals look nasty and they’re the same colour as a cheap sausage,” complained one local to Gazeta Wyborcza. Dividing public opinion, many though have praised the initiative for its humour and underlying message. Neither has the controversy been limited to artistic debate. Having boasted that the canines were thief-proof on account of their hefty 150-kilo weight, city officials turned up to the official unveiling of the one in Park Szczęśliwicki only to find it had been stolen. Fortunately, the animal was discovered dumped several hundred metres away.

The Pride Of Foksal

Emblematic of the finer things in life, we look at the history of Foksal 19…

Long regarded as one of the most prestigious streets in Warsaw, Foskal was born in the 18th century when it was established as a private park and place of leisure targeted at the rich and famous. Named after London’s Vauxhall, it was from here in 1789 that the Frenchman Jean-Pierre Blanchard started out on the first hot-air balloon flight undertaken in Poland.

Decades later, the street finally began taking its current form with elegant tenements and palaces sprouting up. Then popular with aristocrats and industry magnates, it has retained a prime reputation to this very day. Partially, that’s thanks to the presence of such places as Chaton, a glamorous live entertainment spot launched earlier in the year. Located at Foksal 19, and appearing fittingly lavish, the management couldn’t have picked a better spot if they tried.

Built in neo-Gothic style, the building was financed by Count Ksawery Branicki, the president of the Warsaw Rowing Society (WTW). Recognised as the country’s oldest surviving sports club, the property was later sold to the society who paid off their dues over the following two decades.

What they received was truly extraordinary. Jointly designed by Bronisław Brochowicz-Rogoyski and Kazimierz Matecki, the building was completed in 1897 and included an intricate façade defined by an allegorical sculpture by Hipolit Marczewski. Depicting a noble-looking lady balanced on a boat, below her are three boys – one rowing, and two playing the flute.

Created in an era when Poland was petitioned between Prussia, the Habsburg monarchy and the Russian Empire, in essence Marczewski’s work showed the Queen of Polish Rivers uniting her divided nation.

However, Foksal 19 was just as impressive from the inside. Something of a sports hub, the building allowed for year-round fencing practice and gymnastics inside its spacious halls. Moreover, it housed the WTW’s offices as well as ball rooms for charity events, receptions, and cultural events. Authors Henryk Sienkiewicz, Stefan Żeromski and Bolesław Prus were among those who passed through the doors enroute to glitzy engagements. Though gutted by fire during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, the building refused to buckle and by 1946 it resumed its activities.

In modern times, it has continued to reflect Warsaw’s taste for the finer things in life – at the start of the millennium, veteran expats will remember Soma, an American-run brewery-bar that offered locals one of the few Western-style experiences in the city. Later, for years it ran as the elite Foksal 19 club, and an international beer mecca called Sketch, before enjoying infamy as a go-go club notorious for drugging its clientele.

More recently, it was revived as FHouse, an exclusive club aimed at the super rich. Having had its opening delayed by an arson attack commissioned by a jealous business rival, the grand launch was then called off after the pandemic swept Poland. Now reinvented under new operators as Chaton, this luxurious building is again enjoying a fresh lease of life.

Clocks in the City

ABOUT TIME…

With clocks going back on October 29th, make time to admire the best timepieces in Warsaw’s historic centre…

ROYAL CASTLE Pl. Zamkowy

When the Royal Castle was completed in 1622, the grand reveal coincided with the installation of a mechanical clock adorning the central tower. Depending on which source you believe, this was created either by the Warsaw watchmaker Jan Sulej, or by Gerardo Priami before being transported from Florence.

Consisting of four copper dials and gold-plated numbers, it was heavily damaged just three decades later during the Swedish Deluge. With the castle strafed by the Luftwaffe on September 17th, 1939, the clock stopped ticking at precisely 11.15 that very day – three-years later, it was destroyed altogether when the Nazis obliterated the Royal Castle.

There the story could have ended were it not for the dogged campaign to rebuild the castle. When the project was finally rubber stamped on January 21st, 1971, the reconstruction of the clock became paramount. Comprising of around 400 individual mechanical parts, and made using 14 tons of gold, the clock finally chimed into life amid emotional scenes at 11.15 on July 19th, 1974.

HOUSE UNDER THE LION Rynek Starego Miasta 13

Originally dating back to 1428, the House Under The Lion has undergone scores of facelifts in the centuries since, each of which has lent their own imprint on the building’s façade. Passing through the hands of councillors, royal regents and mercantile bigwigs, embellishments have included a gilded bas-relief of a pair of lions, Gothic niches, decorative gables and colourful polychromes depicting medieval scenes. Authored by Zofia Stryjeńska, these were added between 1928 and 1929.

When the building was restored following wartime devastation, Tadeusz Przypkowski was recruited to add a sundial to its frontage. Premiering in 1954, its features include four symbols of the Zodiac: Aries, Cancer, Capricorn and Libra. Reputedly, these reflect the winter and summer solstices, and the spring and autumn equinox. Able only to tell the time from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. due to its position, some regard this as one of the most beautiful timepieces in the entire city.

THE SIMONETTICH TENEMENT Rynek Starego Miasta 15

It is the most elaborate clock of all that has the least compelling story. Regarded as one of the Old Town’s most photographed features, the timepiece tucked underneath the arching niche of the square’s south-east corner was added in 1953. Perched between a plaque commemorating the area’s reconstruction, and a gargoyle holding a bell between its teeth, the clock’s design is credited to Jerzy Brabander, an architect whose other projects include the reconstruction of the Neo-Gothic Szustra Palace in Mokotów and the public square at the foot of Lublin Castle.

“It is the most elaborate clock of all that has the least compelling story...”

Clocks in the City

NEW TOWN SQUARE

Rynek Nowego Miasta 6 / 8 / 10

Less-visited than the Old Town, Warsaw’s New Town harbours a wealth of wacky sights and hidden details – and yep, these include a clock. In an area festooned with strange animal reliefs, surreal sculptures and exuberant polychromes, perhaps the most baffling detail of all is a western-facing sun dial incapable of giving accurate readings due to the trees that block the light.

Built in 1955 to a design by Jacek Gajewski and Włodzimierz Wapiński, the shaded building is one of Warsaw’s great little secrets. As for the clock, its presence is possibly best explained by the fantastic Gnomonika website. “What are these mysterious numbers,” asks the page of the random numbers that decorate the clock. “These are the apparent hours determined by the invisible sun – it’s as if they say that time passes even when you can’t see it on a clock.”

MARIENSZTAT CLOCK

Mariensztat 19

Warsaw’s first post-war housing estate was created as a prototype settlement based upon a Socialist Realist template. Simultaneously inspired by the small-town architecture of 17th and 18th century Poland, Mariensztat’s pastel-coloured buildings and cobbled streets make it an engaging area to explore, and a sedate tonic from the crowded Old Town. Filled with eccentric touches, these include a clock-mosaic on a house that took just nineteen-days to build.

Inspired by the impressionist style, the mosaic was a joint enterprise between Jan Seweryn Sokołowski and Zofia Czarnocka-Kowalska and depicts the night as a forlorn figure wearing a dress decorated with stars, and the day as a more cheerful golden-clothed figure with a dove at its feet.

THE CLOCK MUSEUM Piekarska

20

It’s likely you’ve never heard of the Museum of Artistic and Precision Crafts, and even less likely you’ve visited – open only by prior arrangement, it’s one of Warsaw’s more obscure attractions. Informally known as the Clock Museum on account of its ample collection of 18th and 19th century clocks, it’s perhaps fitting that the building’s front is decorated with an elaborate clock that’s a paean to craftsmanship.

Having been destroyed in 1944, the current property was completed in 1951 and decorated with a mechanical clock whose principal point of interest is a mosaic designed by Wacław Makowski. Made using porcelain waste, and evoking associations with the solar system, it’s a dazzling work whose other notable elements include copper and gold-leaf zodiac signs. Fully renovated five-years ago, the clock springs into life on the hour when its plays the first bars of a poem by Maria Konopnicka called The King Went To War –for years Konopnicka lived close by.

THE BIG CHILL

Having endured more than its fair share of suffering and bloodshed, Warsaw has plenty of seasonal scares for Halloween – join us as we bring you a rundown of the city’s most haunted!

MORSKIE OKO 5

Built in 1927 for Arpad Chowańczak, a ‘furrier to the stars’, the mansion at Morskie Oko 5 was a center point for subversive activities during the war. The area became a combat zone in ’44, and it was in a lull in combat that a girl called Hanka strayed from the building to gather flowers for her lover. Picked off by a sniper’s bullet, her ghostly form is now said to roam the balcony pining for her insurgent sweetheart.

WILCZA 2/4

Flowers wither, floors bleed and unseen women cackle: just a regular day on the first floor of Wilcza 2/4. Haunted by a banker who was murdered in 1915, other occurrences have included sightings of a mournful German officer wandering about.

NIECAŁA / B. PRUSA (KONSTANCIN)

Used in the post-war years by the NKVD, Soviet goons are known to have tortured locals in the basement before murdering them. This former police station is now visited by an executioner trapped between this world and the next, with experts speculating he aches to reveal the burial spots of his victims.

NOWOGRODZKA 14

Get a load of this story: a glamorous theatre actress with a morbid fascination with death and a fondness for opium is shot through the heart by her toy boy lover – a young Russian officer. Haunting Nowogrodzka since her death in 1890, the spectre of Maria Wisnowska is said to favour cheerful morning pranks rather than anything horrific.

THE CITADEL

Some claim that at dusk crows still gather at the Citadel’s Gate

of Execution, ready to feed off the corpses that used to be left out to hang. The air around this Tsarist-era fortress / prison still feels heavy, and aside from ghostly gunshots and anguished screams, nighttime is said to attract practitioners of the black arts to the labyrinthine tunnels that have been gouged underground.

ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 2

In 1524 it was here that Prince Stanisław passed away –though some say this was due to his hard drinking lifestyle, others suspected foul play. Either way, ever since the property has been witness to several unexplained phenomena – moving furniture, rattling windows and distant conversations spoken in ancient Latin verse.

JEROZOLIMSKIE 57

Currently awaiting revitalisation after a brief recent period serving as a ‘creative space’, this building functioned as the Omega Children's Hospital right up until 2003. Following its closure, many visitors re-

ported regular ghostly stuff – you know, bloodcurdling screams, objects whistling through the air and phantom children walking through the walls.

MIODOWA 15

Best recognized for an elaborate gateway modelled on the Roman Pantheon, Pałac Paca was the 18th century residence of Marcin Radziwiłł, a mentally imbalanced aristocrat with a penchant for cruel and bizarre behaviour – aside from keeping his own children locked from the outside world, he is said to have kidnapped young girls from the streets outside. Today, his trembling figure can be spotted darting around outside.

NOWY ŚWIAT 72

Before the construction of the Pałac Staszica, this address was a church – in 1818 a young priest killed himself at the altar, news that was so shocking that the house of worship was razed to the ground. However, the desperate priest can still be found prowling the corridors of what is now the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences.

“The air around this Tsarist-era fortress / prison still feels heavy, and aside from ghostly gunshots and anguished screams”

HIDDEN HISTORY: Otwock Jewish Cemetery

Although primarily known for its ornate wooden villas, the nearby town of Otwock hides many more historical gems –including a forlorn Jewish cemetery…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Thought to have been founded around 1900 –when Otwock itself was beginning to flourish –the cemetery on Hrabiego street remains one of the region’s lesser-known secrets. Largely destroyed during the German occupation, and then later plundered by thieves searching for valuables, today it stands as an eerie but serene reminder of a world left behind.

Nowadays, around 900 tombstones survive, many of which have been tilted and twisted by the march of time. Often shattered and moss-clad, walking

amid these Matzevah is a deeply contemplative experience, even more so when done in the misty half-light of an autumn day. Largely used as a burial ground for those that died in Otwock’s sanatoriums, this point is perhaps worth dwelling on.

Of these, Zofiówka is something of a must-visit. Abandoned for decades, it was founded as a Jewish psychiatric hospital. Later used by the Nazis to imprison Jews (and later still as a centre to ‘Aryanise’ kidnapped Polish children), the derelict network of buildings makes for an intriguing (and slightly disturbing) walk.

ANOTHER ROUND? THE WARSAW BEER FESTIVAL RETURNS AGAIN...

That’s right, strap yourselves in for the latest edition of the now legendary Warsaw Beer Festival…

ESTABLISHED

IN 2014,

the Warsaw Beer Festival has grown into an industry giant –think of it not just as a calling card for Polish craft beer, but the whole artisanal movement. So much more than just a beer festival, do not expect a replica of the Oktoberfest. Marked by its bold individuality, this multi-faceted event promises something for everyone – from the hardcore beer nerd right the way down to the teetotaller!

Warsaw Beer Festival

For The Beer Geek

GEEK DAY

“Mark Thursday in your diary,” says Leszczyński. “The opening day sees all the beer premiers making their debut, so beer geeks will find what all the breweries have been producing. Also, as it’s traditionally quieter on the Thursday, you’ll be able to really focus on the taste.”

PLAN

“The list of beers is announced online a week prior to the festival, so you can really plan ahead,” adds Leszczyński. “Choose the beers wisely, and then start from the weakest before climbing to the stronger ones.”

GET BIDDING

As per tradition, the WBF will be auctioning several white whale beers that are next to impossible to find elsewhere. “The top bid we’ve ever had was PLN 2,700 for a 0.3 litre bottle,” says Leszczyński, “but do be aware that there have been several occasions when these rare-find beers have sold for well below their true value – and remember, all proceeds go to charity!”

CONNECT AND PAIR

Beer-based foods will be abundant, and that includes beer ice cream and artisan meats. “Try a few things,” says Leszczyński, “you’ll be surprised how well certain foods go with different types of beer.”

THINK GLASS

“Every beer geek knows that you have to drink beer from a glass,” says Leszczyński, “and though you can bring your own we’ll also be selling different types of glassware. On top of that, we’ll have allotted water points where you can rehydrate and also give your glass a good rinse.”

JOIN A CLASS

“Conducted in a quiet space that allows you to really savour the beers, our masterclasses will be led by the key brewers,” says Leszczyński. “It’s a great chance to speak directly to a brewer and learn more about the beer.”

GET VOTING

For the first time the WBF will be collaborating with the Untappd app thereby enabling visitors to vote for their favourite beers and keep track of the festival’s best-selling beers. “Partly, we actually want to analyse drinking habits,” says Paweł Leszczyński, the festival’s founder and mastermind. “We want to see if drinkers are more likely to enjoy a beer at home, or in the pub or at a festival – we want to learn how a location impacts satisfaction.” And yes, every vote counts – once the festival closes, souvenir packs containing the top-ranked beers will be made available for sale.

BLOCK THE DATE

What 16th Warsaw Beer Festival

Where Legia Stadium (Łazienkowska 3)

When October 19th to October 23rd Web warsawbeerfestival.com

Tickets available online from PLN 25 (single-day pass)

PLN 45 (three-day)

PLN 99 to PLN 329 (premium & super premium packages)

For The Beer Enthusiast

ENLIST HELP!

With approximately 1,200 beers available from the 60 or so breweries present, the choice can be overwhelming – flag down one of the prowling beer guides to get some inside advice. Further, the WBF will also be holding guided tours of the festival during which guides will lead their pack to six of their favourite beers. For the latter, buy tickets online (samples included in the price!).

DON’T SKULK ABOUT ON YOUR OWN, TALK!

“One of the main rules we have is that the chief brewer has to be at the festival,” says Leszczyński. “They are always happy to share their knowledge.”

BRING YOUR MATES

“There is no such thing as the best beer,” says Leszczyński, “but there is such a thing as the best beer for YOU. If you’ve got friends with you, it makes it easier to share and taste – by doing so, you’ll be able to deduce which beer works best with you.”

FILL UP

With 19 food trucks on-site, you’re guaranteed to eat well. “The selection is brilliant,” pledges Leszczyński. “We pay as much attention to selecting the food vendors as we do the breweries. We’re interested in only the best.”

The Non-Beer Drinker

NON-ALC

Whilst beer is logically the hero of the WBF, non-drinkers are not going to be short on distractions. “We’re for everyone,” emphasises Leszczyński. “This year, we’ve got two specialty coffee stands as well as a stand selling different types of non-alcoholic beer-infused waters.”

FUN & GAMES...

In keeping with recent times, games will also feature highly –board games, arcade machines, table-top games, you name it. “We want to show this is a positive place” says you-knowwho. “There’s plenty of chances to have fun.”Among the more unexpected pursuits, enjoy a sauna as well as beer yoga classes conducted with non-alcoholic beer. There’s even a 5k run that will be joined with Olympic runners.

BRING YOUR DOG

Provided they're not frightened of crowds, the WBF welcomes pets. SHOP!

More than just fest-related merch, the festival will include artisan vendors selling clothes, jewellery, and even hot craft sauces that will make the tonsils tingle. There’s even a tattooist should you want to make the memory of your visit a little more permanent.

On-Trend

“This autumn we’ll see a lot of stronger beers appearing, such as barrel-aged imperial stouts,” says Leszczyński. “More and more lagers are coming on the market as well, whilst the newest IPA trends have seen a lot of the bigger breweries including fennel to give additional flavour. Of course, micro IPAs and low-alc and non-alc beers also remain a growing trend.”

WATCH OUT FOR…

Six slots have been kept aside for the super niche breweries – these include Starcraft, a nano-brewery producing only 200 litres of each beer, as well as Górniczo-Hutniczy, a brewery run by Kraków’s University of Science and Technology.

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: NORTH MOKOTÓW

With Mokotów too big to walk in a day, join us as we explore the hidden corners of a slice of its north...

As peculiar as it might sound now, for a brief period in the 70s some architects went through a phase of decorating the facades of their buildings with industrial waste: usually this meant cast-off porcelain, but in some instances even discarded toilet seats. A prime example of the former is Belgijska 9 – get up close to the exterior wall and you’ll notice its

BELGIJSKA 9

MOZAIKA

been rendered from hundreds of smashed plates, jugs and mugs produced in a factory in Wałbrzych.

Given the name of the street, when Poland and Belgium celebrated a century of diplomatic relations in 2019 ul. Belgijska was the natural choice on which to paint a mural. Titled ‘In tribute to Rene Magritte’, the work was executed by the Belgian street artist Oli-B.

If you’ve read our Halloween rundown then you’ll already know about the ghost that creeps on the balcony of Morksie Oko 5 Just about viewable from Belgijska street, it is on this balcony that the ghostly Hanka can be seen. Once owned by Arpad Chowańczak, an inter-war furrier that was celebrated as the best in biz, the building fell into ruin at the start of the century. Fully renovated, it’s now been divided into luxury apartments.

The Jan Matejko statue by Regeneracja is one of this area’s defining features – looking more like John Lennon, find the artist posed over Stańczyk, the court jester he helped immortalise in his paintings. Erected in 1994, the monument was designe by Marian Konieczny, a sculptor whose more famous works include Warsaw’s Nike, and Nowa Huta’s now-dismantled Lenin (which was once famously the subject of a bomb plot!).

Speaking of Regeneracja (Puławska 61), that in itself demands a visit – opened in the noughties, this hip-retro-dive bar is one of the few artistic bars from the era that has survived with its original spirit in tact!

Regeneracja sits in the shadow of the pint-sized Dom Maure-

“ The interior contains an abstract 1960s mosaic created using pebbles, glazed ceramic tiles, polychromes and liquid terrazzo.”

JAN MATEJKO STATUE

PALLONE

EMBASSY OF LUXEMBOURG

tański (Puławska 55), an 18th century neo-Gothic / Moorish tower that stands incongruously next to the main road. One of the few surviving elements of the Szuster Palace, it’s an absolute gem.

The gently sloping Morskie Oko Park is also worthy of exploration, and even more so in the golden rays of autumn. Scattered with neo-Gothic elements such as a palace in which Louis XVIII is reputed to have once stayed, points to look out for include the creepy-looking Szuster family tomb and a lake that’s said to hold a Red Army tank at the bottom.

A survivor of the PRL era, Mozaika (Puławska 55) has smartened its act considerably since the days its golden oldie nights would attract pensioners twirling under disco lights. Now updated for a younger and more affluent audience, its signature neon outside remains a stunning retro feature.

When you pop in for ice cream at Pallone (Puławska 51) you get more than you bargained for. Recently renovated, the wackjob interior contains an abstract 1960s mosaic created using pebbles, glazed ceramic tiles, polychromes and liquid terrazzo. Attributed to the artist and illustrator Krzysztof Henisz, the work formed the anchoring decorative element of a showroom that once promoted the restorative mineral waters of Konstancin.

If ever you’ve thought about starting a revolution, then maybe do so inside ADA (Puławska 37), a squat / cultural project whose active programme of events includes such things as ‘freak yoga’, book fairs and music festivals with names such as ‘dance against the police’. By

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

visiting, you definitely get to see an alternative side to Warsaw.

Completed in 1936, what now holds the Embassy of Luxembourg (Słoneczna 15) was built for Zofia Żochowska – the sister of the chocolate magnate Jan Wedel. Despite her life of privilege, she stepped up to the plate in wartime. Following a stint in Pawiak Prison, she helped hide several Jews and later operated a field kitchen during the Uprising before being killed. Designed by Lucjan Korngold, the house is a striking example of inter-war modernism.

ADA SQUAT

SZUSTER PALACE

AUTUMN PERSPECTIVES

Beautifully capturing the season and spirit of the city, photographer Dominika Wajda talks about her work…

Warsaw Insider: You’ve photographed some stunning cities abroad – how does Warsaw compare as a model?

Dominika Wajda: Warsaw is still my favourite city to photograph. It’s got so many various architectural styles from different periods that I think everyone can find something that they like. And, of course, we’ve got the most beautiful trams in Europe!

Do you have a favourite area to photograph?

The centre / Śródmieście, especially because of the people you get to meet. I love street photography where people take the primary role and in the centre there’s always something going on - you'll always find interesting,

beautiful, and open people. I also love the area around Rondo Daszyńskiego and Rondo ONZ because of the trams and skyscrapers. That said, I do try to explore to find new places.

What do you want people to think when looking at your images?

I want people to identify the pictures as being mine – I think every photographer has a little dream that they discover their own characteristic style for which they become known. Also, I want people to feel like they’re discovering the city and viewing it in a different way.

How has your photography developed?

I started city / street photography about 18-months ago and for sure I’ve become braver. Of course, my technique has improved although I don’t think that’s the most important thing. Neither do I think the standard of equipment is the be all and end all – the most important tool are your own actual eyes.

What’s the most valuable lesson you’ve learned?

Don’t be afraid and don’t be ashamed! Get out there with your camera – or even just your phone – and take photos!

Describe Warsaw’s personality

Diverse, open and happy!

For more on Dominika, give her a follow at: instagram.com/wajdzia

Murals

1. OCHOTA Spiska 1

If the mural on Tarczyńska 1 was met with negativity, then the one at Spiska 1 – also implemented as part of the Civic Budget –has enjoyed the opposite impact. Though featuring landmarks such as the modernist train station and lighthouse-style tower at the waterworks, this one openly celebrates the area’s green credentials – as such, find a hip-looking cyclist biking over a giant mass of greenery. That’s more like it!

WALLS OF OCHOTA

Although not as high-profile as the murals of Praga and Ursynów (or any other district for that matter), the leafy district of Ochota also has its fair share of outdoor works of art. Editing down the choice, we bring you our favourites of the bunch…

2. HUMALUS Nowogrodzka 76

A mass of post-war concrete, the rat run of stagnant stairwells and corridors that lie between Nowogrodzka and Jerozolimskie will bring you face-to-face with Humalus, a 30-metre mural depicting the silhouette of a half-naked man. Featuring also numerous limbs twisting out from the windows, it was painted by Gore in 2012 and seeks to ask the question, “Who will the new man be?”

3. DEYNA Gorlicka 3

Completed in 2020, this mural celebrates Polish football’s original maverick: Kazimierz Deyna. A Legia Warsaw legend, the playboy footballer was instrumental to the success of his club and country in the 1970s. Later enjoying cult status at Man City (who sweetened the transfer deal with a pile of Adidas gear and electronic equipment), he died in a car crash in America in 1989.

4.

CONSUMERISM & ANT HILL Skarżyńskiego 8

Located on the walls of a school, both these works can be photographed through gaps in the fence – but obviously, that’s probably not a smart thing to do when the kids around lest you cause an incident. With a ‘for sale’ sign hanging off a derelict house, one seeks to make an ironic comment on our consumerist society whilst the other depicts an army of giant ants taking control of the city – draw your own conclusions on that.

Mikołaja Reja 9

5. HALINA & JAN MACHULSKI

Pleasingly minimal yet also highly graphic, the mural that embellishes the Och-Teatr was the winning entry from a competition held to celebrate the theatre’s 50th anniversary. The mural shows Jan and Halina Machulski, the theatre’s founders, posed on the institution’s current logo. “We deconstructed the sign and created a composition illustrating Och-Teatr as a place of constant creation,” say the duo that coined the concept.

6. LACE Grójecka 93

Lacking any official name, locals know this work simply as Koronka (lace). Painted by Nespoon in 2015, the artist has since seen her work go globally viral. Famed for her trademark lace patterns, the artist has even covered entire villages – such as Belorado in Spain – with her work.

Murals

7.

OCHOTA NA ŻYCIE Tarczyńska 1

Found on the back of the building – so actually visible only from Raszyńska street – this jaunty mural was commissioned as part of the Civic Budget. Costing PLN 72,000, not all residents have been happy with the result. Painted to show the best face of Ochota, many locals have complained that the mural focuses too much on manmade objects rather than the district’s greener glories.

8. 1831 DEFENCE OF THE ORDON REDOUBT

Bohaterów Września 19

Immortalised in an Adam Mickiewicz poem, this mural recalls an episode during the 1831 November Uprising. With just 200 soldiers and six cannons, besieged Polish forces faced insurmountable odds surrounded as they were by several thousand Russians and 400 cannons. But having broken into the Polish defensive position, the ammunition exploded, massacring the Russians. The mural also honours Poland’s latter-day army.

9. WITOLD KIEŻUN Tarczyńska 12

This 210 sq/m mural was painted last year to coincide with what would have been Witold Kieżun’s 100th birthday. Famed for his work with the Polish underground, he once took 14 Germans prisoner during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Later, he became an internationally acclaimed economist. The mural shows him in his younger wartime days dressed both as a soldier and in his civvies. For years he lived in America before moving back in the 1990s and settling in Ochota.

Park Szczęsliwicki

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INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

In October

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus and the newly-launched Middle Eastern emporium that is Amar Beirut. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

JOIN THE CLUB

an immersive celebration of Monet and other impressionist legends such as Renoir, Cassatt, Cezanne, Manet and Boudin. Every Mon and Tues, find also their acclaimed Retro Warszawa show, a remarkable experience that transports visitors back to the golden inter-war years. As for other notable happenings, enjoy a Polish karaoke night in Food Town on October 1st, and expect concerts every Sunday evening inside MOXO.

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

Swing into the Art Box Experience

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building

In October

Elektrownia already have a big October in the pipeline – straight from the off, be there on the 1st for the final day of their traditional themed Oktoberfest beer festival. On the 5th, the top floor ‘beauty hall’ will hold a men’s night with grooming advice, style seminar and cigar and whisky degustation, while the 14th and 15th will see the latest edition of the Jestem Slow market – specialising in artisanal products, local labels and handicrafts, it’s become one of the top lifestyle events in town.

Get The App!

Designed to make your life a whole lot easier, download the Food Hall app from Elektrownia’s website to order your favourite dishes in advance from the 13 F&B concepts presented in the food hall.

at intervals), it later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat

20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favourite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year), and Spółdzielnia, a casual eatery that’s already earned mythical status in Łódź.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-allhours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, Bar Koszyki in the middle of it all remains the top check-in.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever-popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium.

In October

Koszyki has long reveled in its cultured reputation – from classical evenings to history walks and book signings, there’s rarely a dull month. In October though the talk will all be about the fourth edition of their design fair. Held on the 7th, roll by for beautiful things aimed at improving the home, mind and body: natural cosmetics, local fashion, candles, graphics, jewellery and pet products.

BACK STORY

Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.

AS THE WEATHER COOLS, WARM YOURSELF WITH A HOT STONE MASSAGE...

The hot stone ritual is a holistic massage that, in addition to relieving muscle tension and relaxing the spirit, improves the metabolism and reduces stress. This treatment uses smooth, heated basalt stones, which maintain their temperature due to their properties. During the session, they are placed on strategic points responsible for the flow of energy in the body and moved along the meridians to stimulate the chakras. The stones are then used for massage which helps to relax tense muscles and increase blood flow. Hot stones have warming properties which contribute to a deep feeling of relaxation and better nourishment of the skin, which then becomes firmer and more elastic.

SHELF CONTROL

Doing nothing by halves, the Big Book Cafe stakes its claim as the city’s best and biggest literary café…

WHERE AM I?

Set right between Pl. Konstytucji and Hala Koszyki this address has a history of attracting book lovers –working as a bookstore since the 1950s, two years ago Warsaw’s culture vultures were outraged when the MDM Bookstore finally ceased to exist. Empty ever since, the void left behind was filled earlier in the year when Big Book Cafe took the space on to complement their HQ in Mokotów.

DO I KNOW THEM?

You should do. Carving their reputation in Mokotów, Big Book Cafe have long been involved in Warsaw’s cultural life. Organising the Big Book Festival since 2013, they’ve always been seen as far more than just a bookstore. Billing themselves as the largest NGO working in the literary sphere, the commonly held view recognises them as a social venture devoted to book premiers, author meet & greets, seminars, workshops, theatre and other likeminded activities.

LOOK AROUND

Boasting five times as much space as their other location, Big Book Cafe impresses immediately with its scale – it’s size, however, has not diluted any of its character. With plenty of daylight pouring through the giant windows, sunny vibes fill a large space decorated with lively colours and retro furnishings and photographs that twin well with original details such as the chequered floor tiles and stout supporting pillars.

Although bookshelves can be found on the ground level, to all intents and purposes this area is treated as a café first and foremost. Bookending the space lie our two favourite areas – at one end, a pea green vintage sofa, and at the other, a separate room filled with festival posters. For browsers, it’s the upstairs that holds the real motherlode of books (unfortunately, mostly Polish-language).

FROM THE BAR

The café aspect is not an afterthought with food and drink involving avocado toast, vegan burger bowls and homemade pastries. Drinks also deserve

a tip of the hat and include botanical-based beverages from Fentiman’s, alcohol-free Aperol spritz and such off-the-map coffee choices as the pink tonic espresso.

GOOD TO KNOW

The Big Book Cafe has cornered the market when it comes to premiers and meet and greets. It sounds obvious, but check their events page on FB to keep in the loop – no week it seems passes without something going down.

Big Book Café MDM Koszykowa 34/50, bigbookcafe.pl

DO THE DEAL

Dyletanci’s lunch special hits the bull’s eye…

nature of this upcoming district. But all good things come to an end – with the building sold from under them, Dyletanci found themselves on the move this summer.

NOW…

They’ve hit the ground running. Immediately settling in to a new premises inside the cool, semi-secretive courtyard behind Pl. Konstytucji, the new venue comes with an updated aesthetic that looks subtle and stylish: muted, neutral colours offset by pops of art. Amid the light woods and sky-coloured walls, the number of neatly arranged wines attest to Sondaj’s reputation as a wine importer and vineyard owner.

IN THE KITCHEN

BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BACKGROUND

Opened seven-years ago, Dyletanci became a calling card for the new face of Powiśle. Lured by the intriguing wines assembled by owner Maciej Sondaj and the author’s cuisine of Rafał Hreczaniuk, few places better embodied the fresh, ambitious

Few chefs can boast the talent of Rafał Hreczaniuk. Looking like he’s just checked in from a rock concert, his personality is expressed on the plate via eclectic dishes that feel nuanced yet never lack in bold, adventurous tastes. This is premium dining, with a la carte choices including wagyu with oyster

mushrooms (PLN 390 for 100 grams) or lamb, carrot and black garlic (PLN 170).

DAILY SPECIAL

It’s easy to spend big in Dyletanci, but the lunch specials offer the chance to dine exquisitely at a fraction of the standard cost. Priced at PLN 75 for three-courses (choose from two starters, two mains, and one dessert), on the Insider’s visit that meant us going for a chilled tomato soup with crayfish – wow, we’d have paid PLN 75 for that alone. As for mains, squid rings, cucumber and ginger came with a playful Asian punch that reveal much about the chef’s flair. As for the final flourish, a caramel cream with peach and mead provides a smooth, sophisticated landing. If this is the quality of the lunch deal, then we can’t wait to get back to sample a la carte. Have no doubt, this is a place belonging in the very top echelon of Poland’s gastro ladder.

Burgerlab brings burgers back in fashion…

THE BURGER WARS

Remember them? Just over a decade back Warsaw saw an epidemic of burger joints that redefined the word ‘fad’. Within months, it seemed like every street had a burger bar, and in some instances more. That heyday may have passed, but the opening of Burgerlab brings those memories back to life. For sure, it’s the first time in years that Warsaw’s felt excited about this staple fast food.

THE PLACE

Just the venue alone is invigorating – enter to discover a large room exuberantly decorated with plant-like clutter and a giant statement mural. Warmly welcomed by the young staff, you’re in a good mood the moment you step in.

THE UNDERWORLD

As engaging as the ground floor is, things take a crazy turn when you tread downstairs. Ducking underneath a DJ booth, descend on down to find a wacky space that looks

like it was hijacked by graffiti artists – even the toilets are Insta-worthy: the ladies, for instance, looks like Barbie’s nightmare. Filled with retro bits and pieces and street art squiggles, the basement is extraordinary to explore.

THE MUST HAVE

It’s hard to get excited about burgers nowadays, after all, Warsaw’s been there and done it all before. That’s what we thought, but that was before ordering here. Going beyond norms, Burgerlab specialises in the extraordinary, something proved by their signature Glam Burger – sprayed gold, find it packed with unexpected additions like strawberry sauce.

THE REST

Other burgers include a chicken peperoni option, falafel and ribs and cherry. But there’s more than just burgers: order up various loaded fry choices as well as salad combos such as the classic chicken Caesar. Burgers average at around

THE DRINKS

You can tell a lot about an eatery by the drinks that they offer. Here that means by bio wines as selected by Natural Rascal, craft beers from the likes of the acclaimed ReCraft brewery, house lemonades (we recommend the lively mango, chamomile and ginger) and cocktails that range from an electrifying Michelada to an interesting rhubarb gin sour.

THE VERDICT

Through its styling alone Burgerlab gets a fair amount of its trade from influencers, digital nomads and other creatures of the now. But this place is for everyone that enjoys good food and good times. If you think the whole burger thing has jumped the shark, then think again – in the shape of Burgerlab Warsaw has gained a wonderful addition to its gastro and social landscape.

PLN 50, but the premium prices reflect the quality that you’re faced with.

MEET YOUR MATCH

Fiercely on-trend, Kubuś Piekarenka has become one of Warsaw’s favourite meeting spots…

K ubuś Piekarenka can split opinion. Detractors point to the occasional indifference of the staff, the elongated waiting times and, most of all, a vibe that can feel almost too intensely fashionable – to fit in, it helps if you have 10k followers on Insta. That said, what else can you expect from a place that’s become one of the hottest meeting spots of 2023?

Raved about by kingmakers such as Noizz, it’s an address that typifies the direction that Warsaw has gone in – capturing the zeitgeist, this breakfast / lunch / café / bakery crossover looks fashionably ad-hoc with bare, distressed walls decorated with fleeting bits of wall art. In such confines, join the urban activists and influencers to order crispy breads piled with gooey regional cheese or delicious creamy scrambled eggs with oyster mushrooms. Drip coffee and freshly-baked goodies add to the pluses.

Kubuś Piekarenka Marszałkowska 19

TALK TO ME, LIKE LOVERS DO...

The attraction is mutual at Warsaw’s freshest wine point…

Planted amid the plazas and glass fronts of the upmarket

Dzielnica 19 housing estate, finding Lovers Bar takes you trotting past outdoor urban artworks, burbling fountains and gated apartment blocks – but then, just as you’re about to give up, Lovers glimmers up ahead with a statement neon sign announcing its presence.

Marketing itself as a wine store, coffee stop, florist and bar, it successfully combines these

functions in a way that feels naturally engaging. Walking in, brush past the complex flower arrangements in the window to be greeted by the sight of an oblong, metallic bar plopped centre stage. Ascetic and minimal in style, the room gains life through a bang of modern art that looms over a communal table at the back, as well as shelves stacked with wine bottles from trending producers – looking around, you get the sense of a place that feels fresh, original and almost Scandic in its vibe.

Yet there is more. Though limited in number, the wines by the glass have been carefully selected, though it is the wine-based cocktails that truly standout. In this regard, props go to the Red Spritz, a refreshing mix of plum lemonade, red wine, cold brew coffee, fizzy waters, bitters and orange. As a counterpart, the White Spritz is equally fitting of praise and is the result of a combo of sparkling wine, pear lemonade, orange bitters, lemon and an olive. Instantly likeable, these are drinks that reflect the modern-minded outlook of the team behind Lovers.

Most of all though, this place underscores just how far Warsaw’s wine scene has come in the last couple of years – no longer are wine bars for the serious, cigar-chomping businessman, now, the city’s wine scene is all about being creative and contemporary. For sure, that’s precisely what Lovers is.

Lovers Bar

Kolejowa 45A, instagram.com/ lovers.warsaw

Look for fritz in the city center!

More than just the No. 1 craft kola, fritz-kola stands for independence, tolerance and diversity, a point demonstrated by a distribution network that matches its values and numbers some of the hippest venues in Warsaw…

1. K-Bar

Piękna 28/34

Like being summoned into an artist’s loft apartment, K-Bar is packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries spread about. Widely credited with demystifying and popularising Korean food among Warsaw’s younger generation, the creative drinks choice reflects the spirit of the place.

2. Kita Koguta

Krucza 6/14

Warsaw is rammed with cocktail bars that take themselves too seriously. Kita Koguta, on the other hand, shows that you can still have fun whilst fixing top cocktails. Inside a wacky interior decorated with street art, the staff, dressed in zany Hawaiian shirts, concocts exciting cocktails. These drinks are often enhanced with the flavors of fritz-kola products.

3. La Sirena

Piękna 54

Inspired by the cult films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavours and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. But we also love the drinks – both the inventive cocktails and fritz-kola range!

4. Pizzaiolo

Krucza 16/22

The city now has a number of venues serving up authentic Neapolitan pizzas, but none know more about having a good time than Pizzaiolo. The classics are great, but even better are their own pizzas. Feeling young and happening, you’ll stick around long after the pizza is gone to enjoy their author’s cocktails and weekend vibe.

5. Pod Gigantami

Ujazdowskie 24

Once seen as a classic restaurant for ‘old people’, Pod Gigantami has been revolutionised under new ownership and transformed into a spot where heritage meets hip. Crossing into party territory at the weekend with 3 a.m. closing times and banging cocktails, during daylight enjoy the modernised Polish creations of Bartek Kapica. Everyone loves it!

6. VHS Bar

Poznańska 7

This 80s-themed cocktail bar sets itself in a pocket-sized brick cellar that quickly fills with a cocktail-loving crowd that buzzes off the energy inside. Adorned with garish pink neons and a magical bathroom featuring a pink flamingo and a portrait of The Hoff, it’s a place that knows how to have fun!

7. Wozownia

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

A secretive-looking passageway leads to Wozownia, an on-trend bar inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Penned inside a lush courtyard, this vibrant space includes a winter garden that looks like something from a David

Lynch dream sequence. The sips are peerless and include the full fritz-kola portfolio.

Based on the desire for independence and a free-spirited, bold idea of doing something better, the brand was founded in 2002 by two students in Hamburg: Mirco Wolf Wiegert and Lorenz Hampl. One evening in the kitchen, over frozen pizza and cola, they came up with the idea of developing a kola that was better than the market leader. A kola with more caffeine, a little less sweetness, a hint of citrus and a clear attitude. Since then, more flavours have been added to the line, all united by one thing – an extraordinary taste.

For more, see: fritz-kola.com

The Buzz

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss.

Nuta

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Let Andrea Camastra take you into the realms of the spectacular at what we figure to be Poland’s finest dining experience. His dizzying takes on Polish classics simply are unbelievable in both taste and composition. Sophisticated but never ceremonial, this restaurant is a banger – and the only star holder in Warsaw.

FORMAL & EXTRAORDINARY

Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

EXQUISITE

Nolita

Wilcza 46

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died.

FOR THE TASTING MENU

Rozbrat 20

Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

DATE NIGHT

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate,

labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a decked courtyard terrace for when it’s not.

NEW WAVE

hub.praga

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

THE BLOGGERS FAVE

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the opposite of the mundane Polski feast.

CASUAL SCENE

Bibenda

Nowogrodzka 10

With no reservations accepted, Bibenda’s enduring popularity ensures that queues often build at the entrance. The hassle is worth it to enjoy bio wines, craft cocktails and an interesting meat-free menu in a warm, busy interior that retains the building’s pre-war heritage. Delve deeper for a courtyard featuring a slanted canopy, crates of flowering herbs and a twisty tree.

ALL-ROUNDER

Browar Warszawski

Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as tiny antique details. While most visit for the house-brewed beer, the upscale

gastro-pub menu has many moments of excellence.

THE NEED TO KNOW The Eatery

Koszykowa 49A

This attractive off-street space comes swathed in white-on-white colours – blissfully cocooned from the outside world, and decorated orb-like installations, this chic but casual space gives Polish food a modernised translation. Visiting for our May issue, we were bowled over by the pork cheeks served with a punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquified peas and red cabbage.

NEW POLISH

Źródło

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menuwise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence.

WELCOME TO POLAND

Polana Smaków

E. Plater 14

Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

GLOBAL GOODNESS

Klonn

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavours are a fantasy of skill.

BREAD & BREAKFASTS

Baken

Żurawia 6/12

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette.

BRILL BAGELS

Serso

Szanajcy 16

Never in the history of Warsaw has the city got the bagel so right. Dense and chewy but also reassuringly soft and fresh, choose from a variety of fillings that range from classic to creative before settling into a Nordic-style interior of light woods and some arty wall pieces.

STAR SUSHI

Noriko

Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi experience the country has ever seen.

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits we;; with the meaty skewers.

RED HOT INDIAN

Guru

Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken

The Buzz

fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

VIETNAMESE TASTE

Viet Street Food Bistro

Królowej Aldony 5/2

What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit-down space – the grassy back garden is a true pleasure. The huge bowls of pho are a wise order to make, though our standard in this busy neighbourhood eatery is the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce.

PERFECT PIZZA

Pollypizza NEOpolitan Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

HARDCORE CARNIVORE

Mięsny

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

SEAFOOD ADVENTURES

Tuna Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colours, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes.

SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR

Ceviche Bar

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails.

AFRICAN FEAST

Queen Sheba

Jana Pawła II 45A

This cramped, little nook presents itself in a cheerful manner, decorated as it is with chunky woods and Ethiopian flags, fabrics and assorted trinkets – it is the food though that is the principal standout, with occasionally hot and peppery meats served on teff-based injera bread (think of a giant pancake) and then scooped up by hand.

THE UNEXPECTED MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with new media types.

INSTA FAVE

Happa To Mame

Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also include dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds.

A VEGAN THRILLER

Dziki Królik

Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka’s involves Warsaw’s best tacos and more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon.

CITY CENTRE VEGAN

Peaches Gastro Girls

Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

VEGAN BRUNCH Lychees

Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted

shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles.

VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop

Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II

52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of

The Buzz

this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style.

UNFORGETTABLE GELATO

Dal Dalla Gelato

Leszczyńska 4

Luca Dalla Costa mixes Venetian techniques with the freshest ingredients to create a magic world where weaknesses don’t exist – at least, we haven’t found any. Even making their own savoiardi biscuits for their tiramisu ice cream, the passion is only beaten by the quality of the end product.

SUNSET PINTS

Cuda Na Kiju

Nowy Świat 6/12

Slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters, this contemporary-minded space (15 taps, pinball machines and a super-cool spirally staircase) is capable of drawing hundreds when the sun comes out.

BEER GEEKS

Jabeerwocky

Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior.

POLISH SUPER BREWS

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-coloured Scandi-design keeps the attention

on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT

Kufle i Kapsle

Nowogrodzka 25

Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw.

OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty Vis-a-Vis

Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of the mainstream fizz peddled by the other nearby bars.

NATURAL WINES

Rascal

Moliera 6

Reputedly Europe’s largest bar specialising in natural wines, this former canteen for ballet dancers is one of the hottest addresses in town – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers encamped here. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, the interior is a chic work that’s outdone only by the Insta-friendly garden.

SEASONAL HIT

Café Pląs

Puławska 113A (Królikarnia)

There’s two rooms to speak of, and both impress with their

tall windows, high ceilings and vintage 60s design. Set inside the Króliarnia palace, it’s laidback and artsy-cool, something aided by the strategically placed plants, chillout beats and rare-find art books placed reverentially on the shelves. Specialty coffee, bio wines, alternative soft drinks and craft beer make it a highly versatile place to finish in after a brisk autumn walk around the palace grounds.

LOCAL WINES

Brać

Sierakowskiego 4A

Focused on highlighting the wines of Poland, this alone says much for the boldness of their concept. As resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać rip-up the rule book to present on-edge sips from niche producers you’ve probably never heard of. Bathed in a rich, red neon glow at night, it looks pretty divine as well – chic and stylish but with hints of retro flair.

CASUAL WINEY EVENINGS

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more in line with entering your favourite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and zaps of neon.

FRIDAY HIT

Grace Drink Bar

Krucza 16/22

Named in honour of Grace Jones, the choice of hero says much about a place that devotes itself to celebrating the glam excess of 80s New York. Rooms include one that’s all bordello style colours and velvety finishes, and another that’s high on plush purple, glass and mirrors. Fuelling the party, are

classic cocktails, kamikaze shots and kitschy yesteryear hits.

FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS

Reginabar Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

RETRO HIP

Paloma Inn

Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colour tones and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails.

VENETIAN ALLURE

Va Bene Cicchetti

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise rollcall of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Beirut & Kraken

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates

FOODIE RADAR

What's hot, what's not and what's happening around town...

HOT OFF THE SHELF

Having already tasted success at their Żurawia 6/12 address, Baken have expanded operations to cover Browary Warszawskie. Specialising in freshly baked goodies and all-day breakfasts, the new address – on Browary’s central woonerf – also has a busy evening scene courtesy of its strong offer of bio wines from both Poland and abroad. Enjoy this in a stylish interior that’s triple the size of their original venture.

GOOD THINGS COME IN THREES

Where once Stalowa street was considered somewhat dicey after-dark, today it’s revelling in a newfound reputation as a bastion of cool. The opening of Trójka Kielichów at No. 38 underlines that. Gay-operated, and artistically furnished with theatrical flea market finds set against a post-industrial vibe, this eatery-wine bar promises an eclectic choice of food and wine that celebrates the seasonal and artisanal. Poland’s foremost food critic, Maciej Nowak, gave it a rave review in the summer, and we’ll be visiting in the coming weeks to see if it lives up to the hype.

WINE OF THE TIMES

One more place beeping loudly on the foodie radar is Winna Żona on Mińska 40. Lauded in some quarters as the hottest opening of the year on the Praga side of the river, we’re told to expect an intelligent and adventurous choice of wines that brings together bleeding-edge producers that reflect the latest trends. Complementing these are small, snacky plates of artisanal this and that, and a slick but atmospheric bottle green interior filled with tumbling plants.

RIDE THE PEGASUS

Earning outstanding reviews across the board, Ave Pegaz on Piłsudskiego 9 should feature highly on any Warsaw ‘to do’ list. Inside a lively interior that doesn’t take itself too seriously (check the ‘ceiling garden’), swivel about to gawk at a mighty collection of corkscrews and drinking implements, and no shortage of jars packed with home fermentations. In this alchemist’s workshop find yourself enjoying some of the most creative cocktails in Warsaw. Making use of hard-to-find spirits and niche alcohols such as Polish gin, the resulting drinks are often spectacular in taste and presentation.

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

The Buzz

of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

INSIDER CLASSIC Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians.

FOR THE MUSIC

Młodsza Siostra

Dobra 14/16

Known for its alternative music policy, the crowd is sourced straight from the local Academy of Fine Arts. With temperatures rising, sit on the wooden decking outside. Now the trees and vegetation are in bloom, the scrappy backdrop of bike repair garages softens to take on the vibe found in the shadowy courtyards of Berlin and Budapest.

LATE NIGHTER Republica San Escobar

Poznańska 7

Lacking airs and graces, it’s a place where fun rules the roost. Tiny in size, find an interior filled with corrugated iron sheets, zappy neons, chunky woods and bike pedals on the footrests. The fun-loving spirits is irresistible, and the tight dimensions mean the party often spills onto the terrace outside.

STUDENT CARNAGE

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same – accessed through

clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos.

IRISH MAYHEM

The Shamrock

Zgoda 5

Little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign, the atmosphere compensates for the aesthetic shortcomings. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders across the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

ALT. ENTERTAINMENT

Worek Kości

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are good.

THE PRAGA VIBE

W Oparach W Absurdu

Ząbkowska 6

Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar.

NORTHERN NIGHTS

Havana

Słowackiego 16/18

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe.

Perched among hip freelancers and theatre types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters.

SHOW TIME!

Chaton

Foksal 19

Chaton is where the celebs and top-earners gather to enjoy world class stage performers prance about whilst revelling in the bosom of refined luxury.

EXPERIMENTAL COFFEE

Cophi

Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter.

COFFEE & CAKE

Tonka

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes.

COFFEE OF LEGEND

Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy.

IT'S SHOW TIME AT CHATON WARSAW

Warsaw’s exclusive dinner show club will deliver a night to remember…

Chaton Warsaw – Restaurant, Live Show & Club is the most exclusive place of its kind in Poland. A new, unique concept that combines art, food, beauty, fun and unforgettable emotions, get ready for an amazing experience brought to you by the best artists, musicians and dancers – and all accompanied by top class cuisine and cocktails. Inside a 100-year-old historic building, which recalls the banquets from the beginning of the last century, our passionate team have created a venue the likes of which has never been seen in this part of Europe before. Chaton Warsaw has quickly become the favourite venue of businesspeople, celebrities, expats and foreign guests.

Over four levels inside an elegant tenement on Foskal street in the very heart of Warsaw, discover our restaurant, club, humidor and Diamond VIP Room.

For many years, the "Dinner Show" concept, which combines the functions of a club, restaurant and theater, has proved popular in major entertainment hubs such as Barcelona, Miami, Los Angeles, Dubai and Shanghai. Now, it’s Warsaw’s turn.

Chaton's principal weekend attraction is the spectacular show - a feast for the senses featuring an exquisite dinner accompanied by a unique artistic program performed by singers, dancers, acrobats, and drag queens from around the world. This October, Chaton will treat its guests with two new Dinner Show premieres: ‘Disco Fever’ and ‘Super Bowl Show’.

Every Wednesday evening get ready for ‘Le Show’, a perfect choice for business dinner and an evening filled with sensual and electrifying entertainment.

During club nights at Chaton, the best music is performed by top Polish DJs and guest stars from Ibiza, Barcelona, the Netherlands, France, Germany and even Angola and Iran.

Nights at CHATON are a true celebration of life. Our talented bartenders will take care of your good mood, and DJs will rouse you to dance.

From Tuesday to Saturday our phenomenal chef will take you on a culinary journey with a signature menu that has touches of Polish and French tastes. Every day you can expect to enjoy live music and special events that you won’t forget.

If you are looking for something more than an ordinary night's entertainment, and if you want to discover new emotions and immerse yourself in the atmosphere of a magic, then Chaton Warsaw is a place that will stay in your memory for a long time.

SMASHING PUMPKINS!

Poland’s premier pumpkin farm is back for October…

Opened as a sideline by an orthopaedic surgeon with some spare land on his hands, Farma Dyn on Warsaw’s southern outskirts has grown to become a phenomenon – with crowds peaking at 2,000 visitors a day at weekends, no other place has done as much in Poland to popularise the pumpkin.

Operating until October 31st, this cult attraction offers a charming, family-forward mix of recreational and educational activities that make it ideal for a short daytrip outside Warsaw. Recommended is the group ticket, whose price includes a two-hour workshop, a disco inside a haystack maze, access to their mini petting zoo and, of course, the main event: the pumpkin search.

During the workshops children will have the opportunity to learn about what’s involved in the harvesting of pumpkins, discover the many varieties of pumpkins that exist, and find out what dishes they can be used for. However, bear in mind experiences do vary – some criticise the price (PLN 35 per person), whilst those arriving later in the day have been known to complain about the lack of actual pumpkins. With the farm shifting around 3,000 kilos a day, that’s no surprise. Time your trip wisely to avoid disappointment.

Farma Dyń Drewny 17 (Powsin), farmadyn.pl

Closer To Home

As popular with kids as it is with Tik Tokking influencers, the rooftop garden at Galeria Północna shopping centre hits a home run with their Dyniowy Ogród (Pumpkin Garden). Complete with a red barn, amusing scarecrows and a pumpkin tower, it’s an ideal choice for an afternoon with a difference. Find it open throughout October.

Galeria Północna Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

READ ALL ABOUT IT!

Known as the life force behind The Books in Mokotów, wPaweł Woźniak joins us for a literary chinwag…

Warsaw Insider: Is there a book that you feel your customers need to know about?

Paweł Woźniak: Franz Kafka’s Letters to Milena is an undermined classic. This collection of letters to his muse were written a hundred years ago, but they carry messages that always prevail. At least, that’s what my employee says!

Do you have anything gathering dust that you feel deserves attention?

I recently really enjoyed Stolen Focus by Johann Hari – I don’t think it’s been sold for quite a while.

Name a book or author that you would NEVER sell! There is no such book. I actually like shallow books and I also believe people should be free

to choose what they want to read. I also try to make this place neutral in terms of worldview and political opinions so customers can find a wide range of books. In this bubble-like world, we need space to encounter opinions we disagree with, I think.

What are you reading right now at bedtime, and is it any good...

I have just started Essentialism by Greg McKeown. My first impression is that the premise of the book is very interesting. However, the business / selfhelp style is putting me off. We will see how it develops.

If your bookshelf was on fire (eek!), which book would you save?

You know... It would probably be Mark Haddon's The Curious Incident of the Dog in the NightTime. This is the book I most often recommend for anyone who starts reading in a foreign language so I would probably just grab it by reflex.

What books do you have queued up on your ‘next to read’ list?

I have been thinking about the book Attention Span by Gloria Mark. I usually don’t have such a list because it would probably overwhelm me. Whenever I need something to read, I just walk around the store and try to choose spontaneously.

Kindle – yes or no?

Certainly not for me! But to be honest I have never tried to read more than one page on a Kindle. For me, a physical book enables you to take a break from modern technology – a Kindle wouldn’t make sense from this point of view.

FEELING BOOKISH?

As nights get shorter, and temperatures get cooler, what better way to spend an evening than snuggled on the sofa with a book in hand – but forget Amazon, support your local bookstore instead!

Antykwariat Grochowski

Kickiego 12, agrochowski.pl

A labyrinthine space in which over 130,000 books creak on shelves that look ready to collapse into dust. Heavy with the aroma of yellowing paper, it’s to here that young and old head to root out treasures from the assembled stock – English books can be found!

JAZZ PO POLSKU

Warsaw Live Sessions

Artystyczna Bookoff

Ogrodowa 7, bookoff.pl

For the discerning collector, Bookoff could have been created with your coffee table in mind –specialising in art, architecture, design, photography and other such lifestyle-led topics, head here to stock up on hefty tomes published by the likes of Phaidon and Gestalten Verlag.

As You Like It

Emili Plater 4, jakwamsiepodoba.pl

Looking like a bookstore should – think packed wooden shelves and fogged-up windows – this little Avalon features a wide selection of American and English literature, not to mention translated Polish books. The variety can’t be faulted.

Bęc Zmiana

Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl

A tiny, curiosity shop whose small footprint belies its choice. Acting as an indy publisher, many of the books come from their own portfolio with city history, graphic design, social economics, art and architecture a particular forte.

The Books

Puławska 134A, thebooks.pl When it comes to used English books, this is hands-down the No. 1 spot in town. The wide choice aside, the price points are set largely between PLN 10 and PLN 18. Peruse the towering shelves or check out their user-friendly website.

OCTOBER

/ NOVEMBER 2023

OCTOBER 8 / DOMINIK WANIA QUARTET

OCTOBER 22 / FOLLOW DIECES

NOVEMBER 5 / TOMASZ CHYŁA QUINTET

NOVEMBER 19 / ZIEMIA / ILONA DAMIĘCKA TRIO

JAZZPOPOLSKU.PL

JASSMINE CLUB / WILCZA 73

JASSMINE.COM

THE PROMISE OF HAPPINESS: MARIA PAPA ROSTKOWSKA

A new exhibition celebrates the sculptural prowess of Maria Papa Rostkowska…

“Icreate happy art,” said Maria Papa Rostkowska, one of the most interesting sculptors of the 20th century. Her marble works gained international fame and were presented at many prestigious exhibitions around the world.

Now, this new exhibition will present twenty-five of her finest works, including ‘The Kiss’, ‘Gaja’, and ‘Unicorn’. Also among these will be ‘The Promise of Happiness’ which the artist’s son, Nicolas Rostkowski, has donated to the museum’s permanent collection. er 3, 2023.

The exhibition in the Old Orangery was created thanks to cooperation between the museum, the Rostowska family and the embassies of Italy and France – it was in these countries that Maria Papa Rostkowska (1923-2008) spent most of her creative life. The artist, a trained painter and designer, initially experimented with ceramics, terracotta, and bronze castings, but achieved creative fulfilment and long-lasting international recognition through her marble sculptures. One of these, the white marble ‘The Promise of Happiness’, will be ceremonially handed over to the Royal Łazien-

ki Museum by the artist’s son, Nicolas Rostkowski.

Marianna Otmianowska, acting Director of the Royal Łazienki Museum, said: “I would like to express my thanks to the family of Maria Papa Rostkowska for their cooperation in preparing this exhibition. This joint decision to give the exhibition a broader context is certainly an innovative accent in the exhibition of marble sculptures. The entire program of accompanying events, through which we can also talk about the sculptures and work of Maria Papa Rostkowska, becomes an opportunity to inspire more people to create, to find their talent and to look for new paths.”

The new temporary exhibition at the Royal Sculpture Gallery in the Old Orangery will open the field to new interpretations of Rostkowska’s work. The juxtaposition of the contemporary artist’s marble works with plaster copies of famous antique sculptures from the collection of King Stanisław August is set to create an interesting dialogue that transcends the boundaries of eras.

The Promise of Happiness: Maria Papa Rostkowska

When: September 9th to December 3rd

Where: Old Orangery (Łazienki Królewskie Museum)

Web: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary

Szwoleżerów 4

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL (multiple

locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a

Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

warsaw montessori family

„Erdkinder” Middle School

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty

Łanowej 46A

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

A MERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education

based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. After, check into Reginbar for cooling cocktails in a hip atmosphere. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Guided by trained specialists, stu-

Not many Polish malls do it better.

Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

VITKAC

dents are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. Further features include a rooftop restaurant. ul. Bracka 9, vitkac.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. After, check into Reginbar for cooling cocktails in a hip atmosphere. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores in this giant include

Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

MAP

shopping experiences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3 Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

6 Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum

Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

The Warsaw Rising Museum

ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism

ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6 Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7 POLIN

ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

1 Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

INSTA WARSAW

Show Chopin

In October, give your feed a wistful twist with a moody shot of a dreamy Chopin…

Is there such a thing as the seminal autumn photo? Probably not, although it’s hard to beat a shot of a pensive-looking Chopin set against October’s golden colours. Found in a particularly serene section of Łazienki Park, the monument honouring Warsaw’s favourite

son depicts the composer sat under a willow tree. Reaching six-metres in height, it’s one of the city’s iconic meeting points – but more than that, it seems to evoke the very spirit of both autumn and Warsaw: romantic and melancholic, everything about it screams October.

And like the city itself, the monument too is steeped in history. Unveiled in 1926, just fourteen-years later it became the first Warsaw monument to be destroyed during the German occupation. Chosen specifically due to its patriotic value, its destruction was rubber-stamped by Hans Frank and the smelted materials then used to manufacture ammunition.

Apocryphal it might be, but the next day it is said a slogan appeared on the pedestal as if painted by the composer: “I do not know who did this,” it read, “but I know why: so that I won’t play the funeral march for your leader.” Rebuilt after the war, the 16-ton statue was cast based upon old photographs as well as miniature gypsum model found in a destroyed cellar belonging to its designer, the sculptor Wacław Szymanowski.

GREY WOLF

WARSAW 2023

NOWY ŚWIAT 55 |

ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 49