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Kazimerz Deyna’s Warsaw Exploring Solec Andersa In Lego Polish Poster Art Reclaim The Old Town!
SEPTEMBER 2020
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16 Neighborhood Watch Glories great and small! 22 In-depth Exploring Solec
EAT!
29 First Bite The Botanist 30 Foodie News Gastro talking points 31 Review Mykonos 32 Review Soba Japanese Noodles
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insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com
S
o, how was your summer? Weird, eh. For as long as we can remember, August has traditionally meant holiday season, and for the jammier gits among us that’s usually translated to sipping cocktails from halved coconuts whilst basking on a beach. Well, youknow-what put paid to that, so instead the majority of us found ourselves rediscovering the country we actually work and live in. Keeping close to home, in the Insider’s case that meant re-friending Warsaw’s Old Town, the results of which you’ll find within these pages. Beyond that, in the name of this issue we’ve also conducted an anthropological exploration of Solec, met a pair of LEGO lovers, delved into the story of the city’s ultimate sporting icon and, miraculously almost, stumbled across a scattering of restaurants and bars that have bravely decided to open against all common sense. Enjoy, and here’s hoping for a September to remember… for the right reasons.
DRINK!
47 First Sips Ceska Kozlovna 48 Round-up Syreni Śpiew
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on the cover Congrats to Wilanow’s Akademeia High School who found themselves awarded at August’s ICONIC 2020 Awards for Innovative Architecture. For more, see p. 8. (Illustration by Kevin Demaria)
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7 Public Art Battle of Warsaw mural unveiled 8 In The News And this time it’s good! 10 Hobby Andersa gets a LEGO makeover 12 Art Posters by Katarzyna Nowakowska 14 Sport Remembering Kazimierz Deyna
SEPTEMBER 2020
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Recharge At Centrum Praskie Koneser Extending beyond food and drink, Koneser’s reputation has grown to include its acclaimed Beauty Zone
W
ith summer in retreat and autumn on its way, now is the time we start collectively thinking about the excess pounds gained on the beach or regenerating the skin after hours of exposure to the sun’s fierce rays. Until recently, that meant hours organizing and scheduling visits to various spas and specialists, but now all of these requirements have been met in the Beauty Zone of the phenomenal Centrum Praskie Koneser. If holidays end quickly, then ridding yourself of their less than welcome side-effects can be a time consuming business: skin regeneration, exercise, diets and healthy eating. Fortunately, the Beauty Zone offers comprehensive wellbeing treatments that will get you back to feeling – and looking – brand new. And with everything necessary to do so found on-site, rarely has doing so been more convenient.
One Place, Many Services
Koneser has already established itself as a melting pot of culture, entertainment and gastronomy but now, on the
premises of a majestically restored 19th century vodka factory, it’s also winning applause for the depth of its beauty offer – everything you could wish for can be found at this address. At the Zdrofit gym, fine-tune your body and appearance with personal trainers on state-of-the-art equipment, while the Damian Medical Center deals not only with medical advice, but also in fields of aesthetic medicine. Then, there’s the Beverly Hills Beauty Academy, hair specialists whose approach and creativity is admired across the city. If your hair has been left looking ravaged by the sunlight, then here’s where to head to return yourself to new. Eyebar, meanwhile, places its emphasis on eyebrow and eyelash care – but beyond their eyebrow styling services, find also manicures, pedicures, hairy styling and make-up services. Not just targeted at women, Centrum Praskie Koneser are also proud to work with Hop-Chop Barber Shop, a gentleman’s bastion in which top professionals will meet all of your gromming needs – beard and whiskers included! And while relaxing in their capable hands, what better way
to kick back than with a tumbler of whisky in hand?
Back To Nature
At Koneser, we place a big value on ecological, natural and vegan products, which is why, for example, we’re pleased to collaborate with Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki, a family firm producing eco cosmetics of national repute. Then there’s Domkove.pl, offering scented, handmade candles composed of 100% natural ingredients, and not forgetting a spread of unique stores retailing Polish brands otherwise not found in mainstream shopping malls. Look out especially for MUSCAT, a fabulous and progressive store majoring in the sale of eyewear.
And then… Chill
As pumped as we are about the Beauty Zone, Koneser continues to act as a cultural, entertainment and gastronomic hub, and it’s in the latter you’ll find a slew of award-winning kitchens run by some of the top chefs in Poland. Of these, it’s essential to visit Bombaj Masala, Zoni, WuWu Bistro, Ferment Praski, Frankie's, ORZO, Hana Sushi, Koneser Grill by Butchery & Wine, Bar Hotel Moxy, ¾ Koneser Bar and Syreni Śpiew. Excellence is no stranger to the above, a point affirmed by the awards and international recognition they have received – Koneser Grill, for example, were inducted into the Michelin Main Cities of Europe Guide this June, while Zoni were bestowed with an Award of Excellence 2020 by Wine Spectator magazine thereby joining a unique global clique of restaurants lauded for their wine selection. And its for this that Centrum Praskie Koneser is rightfully known not just as a place in which to reinvigorate the health and body, but also the mind as well.
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in the
NEWS PUBLIC ART
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Warsaw Saves The Day!
Inspired by the bold style of Marvel Comics, a new, 360 sq/m mural celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Warsaw has been unveiled a stone’s throw from Rondo ONZ. Jointly organized by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage and KGHM Polska Miedź SA, the giant mural was created to celebrate Poland’s momentous triumph over the Bolsheviks at the gates of the capital, a victory that historians credit with saving Western Europe from being swept away under communism. Depicting the event’s principal heroes and villains (among them, on the Polish side, Marshal Józef Piłsudski, cryptologist Jan Kowalewski, and the army chaplain Ignacy Skorupka), the 10-storey mural – found on the side of ul. Prosta 2/4 – reimagines the protagonists as superheroes in the best spirit of Marvel. “Despite the fact that the Polish side featured a collection of different nationalities and religions, we managed to create bonds that allowed us to have one common goal: the survival of the state and the survival of our nation as a political community,” said the Deputy Minister of Culture, Paweł Lewandowski, at a ceremony held on the eve of the battle’s anniversary.
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News ARCHITECTURE
And The Winner Is…
Warsaw’s prestigious Akademeia High School found itself recognized at this year’s edition of the influential Iconic Awards after impressing judges on account of its innovative design. Praised as being “a multi-functional and inspiring place”, the Wilanów school was lauded for a creative design that features, among other things, a rooftop garden with edible herbs, “a canteen that feels more like a restaurant” and a multimedia studio.
HOSPITALIT Y
The waiting is over! With its opening originally pushed back due to the challenges presented by the coronavirus, the Nobu Warsaw Hotel finally opened its doors to receive guests during the front end of August. Joining two distinct sections – one a hyper-modern, black, V-shaped structure, and the other the pristine white tenement that once housed the Hotel Rialto – the hotel presents 117 guest rooms whose fundamental design attains a sense of elegant luxury whilst never straying into the vulgar: simplicity, say the designers, was key. Established in 1994 by chef Nobu Matsuhisa, producer Meir Teper and actor Robert De Niro, together the trio’s brand has since spawned 43 eateries across the globe and 12 hotels, with the Warsaw venture being the latest on the map. Say it quietly, but rumors are already swirling that all three founders will visit next year should the pandemic finally retreat.
TR ANSPORTATION
Supergrass!
Crowned by a pristine patch of rooftop grass, a bus shelter in Żoliborz has become the first eco-stop in the capital after being unveiled in August. Built with glass designed to prevent birds from crashing through it, and topped by a layer of grass that will reduce dust particles and decrease temperatures below, the prototype Popiełuszki 05 stop will be joined by another twenty by the year’s end.
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT TOP COURTESY OF AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL
A Place For… Goodfellas
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Building Blocks
Famed across the domestic LEGO community, we speak to Liwnik and Pablo Brickasso, two enthusiasts that have reimagined Muranów’s ul. Andersa in striking miniature form…
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First off, why Andersa!? Liwnik: It’s hard to say but for sure it’s one of my favorite places in Warsaw – additionally, my gran lived in one of the neighboring buildings on the other side so I’ve got a lot of childhood memories tied up with the area. Pablo Brickasso: The idea was pretty spontaneous. Towards the end of 2019 Liwnik showed me a WIP (Work In Progress) of this building and I figured it would look good with the Warsaw trams I’ve been creating over the last few years. From there we decided to build a diorama together for display at a local event of the club that we belong to (WAWLUG: Warsaw LEGO User Group).
being renovated. That’s when I started thinking how to recreate it with LEGO bricks. Then, around two years ago, I started building little sections of it and collecting the various bricks. The actual real construction began last Autumn and was mostly finished by February – later, I started on the interiors.
They’re a great addition – for those unfamiliar with Andersa, what did you want to show? L: Well, I rarely do interiors but in this instance I wanted to include as many as possible. First there’s Paradox Café, which is a frequent meeting place for members of WAWLUG, then there’s the bike repair shop that has From start to finish it must have been around for so long that I took a fair while to complete? remember it from childhood. I PB: In all the whole diorama also wanted to include things took around seven months to that I remember seeing in my build. grandmother’s apartment. Of L: That said, the idea was born the little details, I love the one a long time back when I first of kids playing with dishes in saw pictures of the building the kitchen!
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF LIWNIK AND PABLO BRICKASSO
HOBBY
Any other details people should look out for? PB: I love the charger for electric buses! They’re growing in number around Warsaw and there’s a similar one found on Konwiktorska around the corner. I wanted to add this to the diorama as I thought it was a discreet little touch that said a lot for modern Warsaw’s public transport system. How does your model differ from the real thing? L: Due to our limited resources, the building much smaller than the original. PB: Also, there’s one crucial difference from real life. We rotated the building so it was parallel to Andersa rather than Anielewicza, a decision we made because the diorama simply looks better this way. But even so, several people at the WAWLUG exhibition recognized it straight away for what it was, so I think that the final result has been pretty distinguishable.
For more on the duo’s work, see: instagram.com/pablo_brickasso and instagram.com/liwnik
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GR APHIC ART
Posters From The Edge
The Insider meets the graphic artist whose work celebrating Poland’s natural beauty went viral this summer…
C
reated for the Poster Polytechnic, the work of graphic artist Katarzyna Nowakowska found itself going viral after being seized upon by both foreign and domestic media. Aiming to express the natural beauty of Poland, the series depicts eight distinct regions with Nowakowska describing her work as “minimalist and delicate with toned pastel colors that refer to nature.” Promoting the nation’s gloriously wild landscapes, the idea for the collection came easily. “I love Poland,” Nowakowska tells the Insider, “and our nature inspires me every day. We’ve got beautiful landscapes and I love
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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2020
observing the world around me: the colors, textures, details and shapes found in our rich variety of fauna and flora.” “I think a good poster should evoke emotions and affect the imagination,” she continues. “Further, I think it should be simple and the content both clear and concise.” Nowakowska’s posters have proved exactly just that, a point affirmed by their popularity. “People have taken to the series because these posters relate to nature,” she opines. “Poles are very attached to their beloved regions, and I think these posters reflects their soothing nature.”
For more on the info, see: posterpolytechnic.com
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GR APHIC ART
Seize The… Deyna
Unveiled on the 31st anniversary of his death, a new mural in the heart of Ursynów has paid tribute to Poland’s greatest ever footballer…
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WIKICOMMONS
L
ong before Robert Lewandowski and the era of megabucks modern football, one player dominated the Polish game to an extent that resounds to this day. Regarded as the nation’s first ever global celebrity sportsman, Kazimierz Deyna ranked alongside the best and in the process orchestrated the nation’s rise to football’s top table in the 1970s. “Even God,” remarked Pele once, “would not be able to improve him as a footballer.” Born on October 23rd, 1947 in the northern town of Starograd Gdański, Deyna began his footballing career with his hometown club before joining ŁKS Łódź in 1966. With his raw talent already visible to all, Legia Warszawa – then under the auspices of the army – were able to poach him from under the noses of ŁKS after just one match, and it was there, at the capital’s most successful club, that he would become a legend in the truest sense. Mentored by Czech coach Jaroslav Vejvoda, by 1969 he had won his first domestic league and cup double, a feat that was repeated the following season. In all, he bagged 141 goals over a 12-season period with the Łazienkowska club – not bad at all for a player that originally thought his future lay as a ping pong player. A firm fan favorite at Legia it was, however, his international impact that is remembered across the globe. Capped 97 times by Poland, he finished as top scorer at the 1972 Olympics before being part of the team that qualified for the 1974 World Cup having famously kept England to a draw at Wembley. Tipped as outsiders, the Poles became the talk of the tournament after recording a blistering start that involved a historic triumph over Argentina, a 7-0 mauling of Haiti and a magical victory over Italy – against these pre-tournament favorites, Deyna’s goal was struck with such venom that it’s claimed he later had to swap boots. Known as the ‘water battle of Frankfurt’, Poland’s next match, the semi-final, saw them go chin-to-chin with hosts West Germany on a swamp-like pitch that was barely playable after a summer deluge. Edged out by the team that would go on to win the tournament, the Poles salvaged pride by going on to beat Brazil in the third-place playoff. Regarded as something of a talisman, Deyna was the shining star in a golden period for Polish football, and his outrageous performances on the pitch were matched by an enigmatic but playboy lifestyle off it. Living first on
ul. Puławska, and later at ul. Świętokrzyska 32, he was a frequent visitor to trendy hangouts such as Adria and Roxana, not to mention the bar in the Hotel Europejski, and it’s said that the fur-wearing playmaker would often spend great lengths of time preening his hair in the mirror ensuring it was perfect. His soaring international reputation meant no shortage of foreign suitors, either. Real Madrid were linked with him as were Bayern Munich. Counting Prince Rainier among his fans, AS Monaco also kept close tabs on his progress on the urging of the monarch. But in what represented one of the great sporting injustices of Communism, players were blocked from transferring abroad until the age of 30, a law that ultimately thwarted the western world from seeing the peak of Deyna’s powers. Eventually, a move was sealed in 1978 to Manchester City for what was then a staggering fee of one-hundred thousand pounds. The switch, it was rumoured, was sweetened by the promise of a pile of Adidas equipment as well as a horde of electrical equipment. Becoming only the second Eastern European to play in England, Kazik endeared himself to the Maine Road faithful by contributing seven goals in the last eight games of the run-in to rescue his team from the
Deyna was the shining star in a golden period for Polish football, and his outrageous performances on the pitch were matched by a playboy lifestyle off it ignominy of relegation. Established as a cult hero, his fame grew yet further when he was cast alongside the likes of Michael Caine, Sylvester Stallone, Bobby Moore and Pele in the film Escape To Victory. By this time, though, he had become a fringe player at City despite the adoration he continued to command from the terraces. When the San Diego Sockers came calling it was an easy decision to emigrate to the States, not least due to the financial pressures he found himself under. Five prolific seasons followed during which time he netted five championships on the bounce, but his final years of life were marred by increasing money troubles, fallouts with his advisors (who were strongly suspected of misappropriating his earnings) and a drinking habit. Already convicted of driving under the influence on three prior occasions, Deyna was killed on September 1st, 1989, after crashing his car at speed into a parked truck. Found in his body was a blood-alcohol level of 0.20%, and in his boot, twenty-two footballs.
Deyna’s Warsaw Deyna’s virtuoso ability and his tragic, premature death have combined to ensconce him into folklore. At his spiritual home, Legia’s Łazienkowska stadium, no big match is complete without banners bearing his face being waved from the hardcore in the Żyleta stand. But besides this latent reminder, Kazik’s legacy lives on it sites across the city.
Powązki Cemetery Having originally been buried in San Diego, an urn containing Kazik’s ashes was flown back to Poland in 2012 and interred at Powązki’s Military Cemetery at a ceremony held on June 6th. Attended by former teammates and hundreds of fans, his return to Warsaw was made possible after Legia followers raised the required funds.
Legia Stadium On the same day that Deyna’s ashes were buried in Warsaw, a two-meter bronze sculpture was unveiled within spitting distance from the entrance to the Żyleta, the home of Legia’s most vociferous fans.
Legia Museum Idolized to this day as the club’s greatest ever player, it makes sense that a generous section of Legia Warszawa’s museum is dedicated to Deyna. Featuring memorabilia such as shirts, pennants, boots and personal items, it’s a touching tribute to Legia’s favorite son.
And In Praga Originally revealed in 2015, the cheery Deyna statue that stands outside the Offside bar on Brzeska street was nearly lost forever after workers renovating the area chucked it on the scrapheap. Saved by members of the AKS Zły football team, and subsequently stored in Offside, the monument was restored to its rightful perch late last year.
Mural The sight of Deyna’s face on the walls of Warsaw is by no means uncommon, but it is the latest mural that stands to conquer all. Designed by Bakcyl Studio, the 400 sq/m project can be seen in its full glory on ul. Kazury 16.
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RECLAIM THE OLD TOWN !
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Deprived of the usual tourist swarms and seasonal annoyances, never has there been a better to once again fall in love with Warsaw's historic center...
See You At Ziggy Point! Seen as one of Warsaw’s principal meeting points, a rendez-vous at the base of Zygmunt’s column has for decades – and possibly longer – been a rite of passage for local Varsovians. Constructed on the orders of Władysław IV to honor his father – Zygmunt III – and his decision to shift the capital from Kraków, the Italian-designed 22-meter column has become one of the city’s defining icons with local legend asserting that should the Zygmunt’s sabre fall, then Warsaw would face trouble. That was certainly the case in 1944 when the column was felled by a single German tank shell. Rebuilt in simplified form (the original column lies horizontal next to the side of the Royal Castle), the latest version was unveiled as part of post-war celebrations marking the launch of the W-Z highway built underneath. Previously, it had been Europe’s sole secular monument (right up until the figure of Napoleon was added to Paris' Place Vendôme in 1810), and was so coveted that in 1711 Russia’s Peter the Great investigated possibilities of transporting the whole thing up to Russia – only unspecified ‘technical reasons’ prevented this from happening, and so Zygmunt has continued to gaze over his city for close on 400-years. >>>
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HISTORIC CENTER IN-DEPTH
How Romantic Share… A Kiss
A gorgeous cobbled twitten bookended by two buildings arching over the alley below, Dawna street’s best-known embellishment is a powder blue annex positioned over the top end. Added in the 18th century to serve as home for the parish priest, its romantic qualities aren’t lost on the couples who have claimed this as one of Warsaw’s top kiss spots.
Leave… A Lovelock
Just beyond Dawna’s cute archways lies the Old Town’s former sewage heap; known as Gnojna Góra, it’s since been reinvented as a viewpoint staring out towards the Wisła. With no shortage of benches to canoodle on, its popularity with courting boys and girls is underlined by the hundreds of lovelocks that clasp to the handrails.
Take… The Stairs
The narrow lantern-lit stone stairwell that is Kamienne Schodki feels like a little Old Town secret, and at dusk it’s hard not to feel moved by its mysterious atmosphere. Should popular anecdote be believed, it’s on this steep stairwell that Napoleon once stood whilst contemplating eastern conquests.
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Taste The Old Town Food
The recent demise of Warszawski Sznyt, La Rotisserie and Świętoszek Tartuffe have seen quality narrow, so a hat tip to Stolica for ploughing through the pandemic to serve the historic center’s best upmarket meal. At the opposite end of the scale, find basic, heritage Jewish cuisine inside Freta’s Pod Samsonem (going strong since 1958!), lumpy but tasty Polish options at Pod Kogutem, pierogi served from out of a hatchway at Karmnik and a raucous beer hall type atmosphere
inside Kompania Piwna – the food’s a little mediocre, but the atmosphere is always on point. For afters, order up a towering Świderek soft-serve ice cream from one of the street-side holes in the wall that dominate the Old Town.
Drink
Three standout choices prevail in the Old Town when it comes to booze, with the cocktail side of things ably covered by Bar & Books, a wood-paneled bar located inside a charismatic coach house. Posh to the extreme, the
gentleman’s club air is accented by the classic drinks, pedigree cigars and refined atmosphere. As a craft brewery, Maryensztadt have continued to expand their portfolio and the proof comes via the increasingly adventurous choice to be discovered at their flagship bar. That said, pub crawls of Old Town tend to begin and end at Same Krafty, owners of three locations (if you count their Rynek terrace as well). The choice is outstanding. For something softer, their subterranean teahouse has shades of Tolkien about it.
Instagram Me!
The historic center remains just about the only place in town where a selfie stick isn’t just acceptable, but nigh on mandatory. Give your social media a buzz by shooting the beautiful Castle courtyard, the cute blue gateway mentioned on the left, or by climbing the 150-steps to the top of the St. Anne’s observation deck for views of Old Town below. And don’t forget the World of Illusion where admission allows visitors to become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color their shadows – filled with extreme optical illusions, it was created with your Instagram in mind. >>>
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HISTORIC CENTER IN-DEPTH
Hidden Gems Antique Finds
Odd discoveries await all those that root about the antique stores that fill the area: cascading with trinkets, treasures, junk and bunkum, find everything from cavalry swords and pre-was Judaica to scrolls and maps in stores like Lamus and Lapidarium on ul. Nowomiejska.
Sky High Surprises
Whether it’s the allegorical reliefs decorating the portals to the Rynek’s tenements, or the mannequin hanging out of the upstairs window of Pl. Zamkowy’s Castle Inn, bountiful curiosities reward those who look up and scan what’s above. Our fave mind, that’s the pigeons that decorate the doorway at Piwna 6: they honor a woman that fed the birds throughout the war despite the hardships in involved in sourcing five kilos of grain on a daily basis. She returned to the building’s ruins after the war and continued her ritual convince that she could see the spirits
of the sons she lost in the Uprising in a particular pair of birds.
Blink And You’ll Miss ’Em
The skinny house at Kanonia 50-52 is proof that micro living isn’t a modern fad. Only just slightly wider that its door frame, its narrow form was a cunning ploy by its 17th century owner to avoid paying a hefty property tax bill. And on the topic of small, check Długa 1. Completed in 1843 to act as a tobacco store, Warsaw’s tiniest house scandalized the city (and adjoining church) in the 1890s when the owner added pornographic pictures from Paris to the shop’s repertoire.
Courtly Secrets
The covered overhead walkway spanning Kanonia was built in 1620 to safeguard the King after a deranged nobleman by the name of Michał Piekarski tried to club him to death as he
made the short stroll from the Castle to the Cathedral. King Zygmunt III survived, whilst Piekarski was tortured to death before having his remains blasted from a cannon. On the subject of the cathedral, check the crypts to wander amid grand monarchial tomb
Scars Of Battle
Discreet reminders of the war are dotted generously about, and it’s the ecclesiastical landmarks that present the best-known. To the side of St. John’s Cathedral, for example, look for a track salvaged from a Borgward IV. Wrongly identified by the plaque as belonging to a Goliath, its all that remains from this remote controlled demolition vehicle used in 1944 during the suppression of the Uprising. Like the Cathedral, St. Martin’s on Piwna 9/11 was also fully wrecked, with the one of the few surviving elements being a half-burned figure of Christ on a cross.
Okay, so this swathe of Warsaw is hardly swamped with tourists, but even so don’t let that deter you from seeking out its quieter little alcoves. Start at the lower gardens of the Royal Castle, a 1.9 hectare floral extravaganza whose opening last year brought an end to a project that was first vaunted two-years back! After, peruse the exhibition at the ZPAF Gallery – or stick around for an evening Chopin concert (tickets only in this covid era), before sneaking out to chill in the secretive back garden. For real solitude though, skirting the ancient Barbikan walls is a must come sunset, before pondering the beauty of Warsaw sat on the bench at the escarpment by the Marie Curie statue in New Town. Breathe out.
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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Take A Break
Museums Of Merit
Completed in 1619 only to be later razed to the ground by the Nazis, the meticulous reconstruction of the Royal Castle was only finished as recently as 1984. Magnificent and over-the-top, the lavish interiors house numerous attractions, among them paintings by Rembrandt and Canaletto. Equally essential, the Museum of Warsaw follows a rambling trail through a series of Rynek tenements taking visitors past object-driven displays that include artwork, recovered relics, models, a saucer signed by Picasso and… a toy monkey called Peemek that was used to smuggle valuables during the war. Less high-profile, do also visit the small museum dedicated to Marie Curie’s scientific discoveries, Piwna’s Pharmacy Museum (where you’ll discover the secrets of potions and poisons) and the brilliant Heritage Interpretation Center which does a thorough job of retelling the story behind the Old Town’s destruction and subsequent phoenix-like recovery.
Experiences Make A Wish!
See that glued-up bell on ul. Kanonia? Stitched up after crashing down from St. John’s Cathedral during the war, it’s now common practice to circle it three times with your finger on the top before making a wish – presto, your dreams will come true.
Lay Some Flowers
Erected in 1983, ‘the little insurgent’ remains the country’s best-known memorial to the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (and arguably its first). Modeled on Antek, a 13-year-old boy-soldier killed during the early stages of the battle, there’s never a bad time to lay some flowers for those that made the ultimate sacrifice.
Count The Mermaids
Displayed on the city’s coat of arms since 1390, the city’s mythological protector – the mermaid – has
numerous statues in the city, the most famous being the one that stands in the center of the Rynek. Find the 1855 original lurking inside the nearby Museum of Warsaw.
Get Retro
Jazz up your living space with quirky art from the so-called Polish School of Poster. Though claustrophobic in size, contained within the Polish Poster Gallery (Piwna 28/30), are a fab horde of vintage posters dating from the PRL heyday of this art form.
Listen To The Sounds
You can judge a Polish Old Town on the merits of its street performers. While the mime artists seem to have vanished, the buskers continue to ply their trade, most notably in both the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy: their tunes provide a magical soundtrack to your urban prowl. warsawinsider.pl
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N E I G H B O R H O O D WATC H
Though less high profile than the noisy neighbor that is Powiśle, Warsaw’s other key riverside district has charm in abundance…
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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
SO LET’S… SEE SOLEC
GET… YOUR FILL
Perhaps not as bewildering in choice as neighboring Powiśle, Solec nonetheless offers some of the most standout dining choices in the city: in this, Rozbrat 20 and Dyletanci play a large role, though shout-outs also go in the direction of such venues as the meat-centric Byk Bar, Hispanic-themed El Botellon, the wacky Cool Cat, riverside Ogrody Wisła and the fun Asian cuisine of Mr. Oh.
KNOW… YOUR COFFEE Solec lacks choice a little when it comes to new wave coffee, but who needs it when you have a hero like Fabryczna to turn to. Warm and atmospheric, think of this wooden-fitted café as the king of local chillout.
GLORY… TO THE SAPPERS
Surrounded by six pylons that mimic an explosion, the Glory to the Sappers Monument at the top end of Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park depicts a kneeling sapper
disarming an anti-tank device. Seventeen meters at its highest, the memorial lists the name of all those that died while rendering post-war Warsaw safe from German booby traps. Visit at dusk when sunlight streams through the different elements to stunning visual effect.
SPOT… SOME NEON
How cool a district is can be measured by its headcount of retro-style neon – there’s no shortage of it in Solec with the Insider fave being the softly suggestive tongue at the beautifully designed Lukullus St. Tropez.
WALK… TRASA ŁAZIENKOWSKA
Stretching eight kilometres in length, Trasa Łazienkowska was the first ‘urban expressway’ in Poland, and enthusiastically promoted as proof of the futuristic socialist vision. Opened in 1974 by First Secretary Edward Gierek and the Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev, it was considered such an warsawinsider.pl
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N E I G H B O R H O O D WATC H
engineering feat that it was included in open top bus tours by Orbis, the state travel agency – yep, Communism really wasn’t any fun. Random fact: Pope John Paul II crossed the bridge in 1979 in a delivery truck that had to be hastily converted into a Pope Mobile.
CHECK… THE STREET ART
CROSS… THAT BRIDGE
Embellished with turrets, pavilions and ornamental lamps, there’s no doubting the imperial majesty of the Neo Renaissance Poniatowski Bridge. Beautiful as it is, it also earns sympathy in spades: over the course of history it’s collapsed once, been burned down another time and blown up twice. As if that wasn’t enough, in 1926 it was the scene of a coup after Marshal Józef Piłsudski and President Wojciechowski held failed talks on the bridge to discuss the future of the nation. Phew!
SNOOP… THE PARK
Forming the green buffer zone that runs between Górnośląska and Most Poniatowskiego, Edwarda Śmigłego-Rydza Park was
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built over war rubble and followed the vision of landscape artist Alina Scholtze and her team of helpful munchkins: over 15,000 school children volunteered to help create this space, planting some 10,000 trees and 60,000 shrubs while music bands tooted in the background. Once home to the city’s first ‘dance café’ and a circus, nowadays attractions include such public art as the 60-ton Unity, an installation donated by Chicago-based Poles.
GIVE… PEACE A CHANCE
Found in Edwarda ŚmigłegoRydza Park, look out for a three-meter statue depicting a girl holding the dove of peace. Completed in 1957, four years after the death of Stalin, it was one of the last works in the style of Socialist Realism to be erected in Poland.
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2020
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
The Łazienkowska underpass by Legia’s stadium has long been regarded as something of an open air graffiti gallery, a reputation gained long before the walls of Warsaw became a canvas for street art. While the location has naturally meant a high proportion of tribal football markings, other more experimental works can also be viewed. And bearing in mind the dank, murky backdrop, the art somehow feels all the more raw and visceral for being here.
TAKE… THE STAIRS
Entered via a wrought iron gate snuck away on Myśliwiecka street, ul. Profesorska was laid out in the 1920s with its steep, plunging stairwell lined with villas earmarked for use by local academics. Surviving WWII intact, this pretty little street was inspired by the same philosophy applied to the garden cities that were so popular during the interwar era. A place of quiet charm, it’s one of Solec’s best-kept secrets.
VISIT… THE ORIENT
In this day and age, that means doing so the safe way: by stepping into the Museum of Asia & Pacific. Among the collection of exotica find a beautifully assembled and presented collection of 120 musical instruments that are simply jaw-dropping to admire.
ENJOY… THE LAST OF THE SUMMER Autumn’s coming to get ya’. But before temperatures dip, September affords us
one last chance to enjoy the final days of summer – and in Warsaw’s case, there’s no better place to do so than on the swanky riverside boulevards: whether on foot, on rollerblades, on bike or one of those damned stupid scooters, the so-called Bulwary are a joy to explore no matter what time of day.
REMEMBER… THAT
Found in the very bull’s eye of Śmigłego-Rydza Park sits the forlorn form of what once served as the original Syreni Śpiew. Looking more like an abandoned military bunker, the flat oblong building was once a socialist showpiece canteen, elegantly decorated with complex mosaics and abstract compositions. Only narrowly averting demolition following a public outcry, this beautiful gem of post-war modernism stands as if silently screaming for a tender restoration.
GAZE… UP
Appearing like falling Tetris blocks, the trio of 16-storey towers that comprise the warsawinsider.pl
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N E I G H B O R H O O D WATC H
Torwar Estate were intended to be complimented by a further duo of 24-level high-rises to act as a visual counter-balance to the Palace of Culture. Noted for their pointy balconies and inverted shape, the hulking structures were designed in the 60s by the prolific Oskar and Zofia Hansen and are a curious paean to the aesthetics of the age.
DRINK… INSIDE A BRIDGE
Not many crossings offer that opportunity, so use it to the max. When it comes to Solec that means exploring the guts of Poniatowski Bridge where, among various options, you’ll find the jovial Czeska Baszta serving frothy pints of imported Czech beer, the craft inclined, tavernstyle Pod Mosteczkiem, and the wild and cool Mr. Oh.
USE… YOUR IMAGINATION
TAKE… YOUR LAST CHANCE
Last chance for what!? To party on the Wisła, of course. Though the Solec end is no longer as raucous since the demise of Cud Nad Wisłą, the summer could have been a whole lot worse. If nothing else, dress your best to toast another day of life from the rooftop deck of the inimitable Sen. Surrounded by the glam and the glorious, there’s no better place to watch the sun set one last time over summer.
PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Open only sporadically on dates such as the Night of
Museums, the Elizeum in the depths of ŚmigłegoRydza Park was built in the 18th century to act as a covert, underground hangout for Prince Poniatowski. In its pomp it featured skylights, pools, little chambers, polychromes and extravagant decorations; today, it’s bolted shut and a haven for bats. Thus far, proposals to turn this complex of caverns into a bar or a Chinese Pavilion have fallen flat on their face.
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GURU REDEFINES
MODERN INDIAN CUISINE
Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.
Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604
First Bite
GIVING THE GREEN LIGHT PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
If the lockdown was something of a death sentence for the restaurant scene, it’s telling that the few places that are opening are serving the cuisine people want: and in this city’s case, then yes, that means vegan. The Botanist, though, is something a little more. Okay, so we’re now accustomed to plant-friendly venues that look better than a student squat, but even by these modern standards this spot goes the extra yard. Dark and sophisticated, the manner of this very restaurant is reflected by a drinks card involving high-end cocktails and a client base that’s young, fresh and pretty – provided they haven’t cheated us via a Soviet slight of hand, then yeah, tennis ace Agnieszka Radwańska visited last month. You should as well, for doing so means the trial of such dishes as jackfruit tacos or Poke bowls of watermelon and mango with lashings of sriracha. If this is what post-lockdown dining means, then we very much approve. The Botanist ul. Ordynacka 13, thebotanist.pl
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EAT!
FOODIE NEWS A GRAND(ER) BURGER
Cooking freely with no set recipes, join Katarzyna Jato’s culinary workshops to learn the art of spontaneous kitchen thinking using the ingredients you have to hand. Sharing her unique vision, her classes seek to tap into your gastronomic sixth sense while encouraging guests to challenge their curiosities and learning about the product. Along the way, you’ll learn her innermost tips and tricks. Workshops are priced at zł. 590 and last five hours in total. Scheduled for September 12th and 26th, for details contact Katarzyna at tel. 535 480 788 or katarzynajato@gmail.com.
ROOTING FOR BEIRUT
In spite of modest footfall due to covid, Le Cedre’s pledge to donate a healthy fraction of their takings to the Lebanese Red Cross raised just under zł. 8,000 in a matter of days. Creating their fundraiser in response to the disaster that rocked Beirut last month, Warsaw’s best-loved Lebanese restaurant would like to thank all those who visited and enabled their donation – good work y’all!
For further info, see: fb.com/jatointuitivecooking
VIRAL NEWS
With sanitary standards still a hot topic, the Insider’s favorite Indian restaurant has given other restaurants pause for thought not just by segregating tables with plastic partitions, but by unleashing certified UVC technology that’s the first of its kind in the country: eliminating bacteria and other such nasties with 99% efficiency, Guru now lead their field in more ways than one.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA (2), FACEBOOK/INSTAGRAM
WHO DARES WINS!
What recession? Giving the finger to any notion of an economic contraction, Fuego by Bracia Collins have launched what stands out as the most extravagant burger ever served in Poland. Priced at a cool zł. 1,000, find it composed of edible 24-carat gold, Japanese Kobe beef, truffle mayonnaise, Złotnicka bacon, homemade pickles and a generous leaf of lettuce. A bargain!
Mykonos ul. Grzybowska 62, mykonos-restauracja.pl
LIKE GREECED LIGHTNING!
Mykonos deliver a piece of Greece to Wola’s new, revamped brewery quarter…
THE WHERE…
Once rundown and abandoned, Wola’s eastern rump is set to become a poster child for regeneration thanks, largely, to the Browary Warszawskie project. Covering the area that once housed the 19th century Haberbusch & Schiele brewery, the plot as been subject to rigorous work over the past five years with the over-arching aim envisioning the area reintegrated into Warsaw’s urban fabric through the introduction of swanky apartments, shiny offices, revamped historical structures, green plazas and fancy woonerfs. And gluing that altogether, you’re right to expect a full-on assault from the food and beverage sector. Eventually (this year we’re promised), that’ll mean a restaurant backed by football star Robert Lewandowski, not to mention a Hala Koszyki-style food hall. In the meantime, though, a taste of things to come has been provided by Mykonos, the first restaurant to open in this ambitious development.
AND THE WHAT…
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. That applies as much to the vast, slick terrace as it does to the interiors: dominated by the national colors of Greece, they’re smart, chic and spacious, but never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. In this ‘island experience’ live DJ sets help maintain the mood, as does a competent drinks card complete with traditional Greek spirits and fun party cocktails with names such as Medusa’s Charm and Zeus Is A Sinner. But how does the food score? Very well indeed. Keeping an all-seeing eye on the kitchen is Theodoros Vogdanos, a chef long associated with Mykonos’s sister restaurants of El Greco and Paros, and his experience and passion resounds through the menu: traditional marinades, top quality olive oil, fluffy moussaka, beautifully grilled meats and fresh seafood all contribute to make eating here a pleasure. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious.
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EAT! Review
Soba Japanese Noodles ul. Radna 13, fb.com/sobasowa
SUPER NOODLES WHERE AM I?
Flanked on either side by tall trees and even taller tenements, leafy Radna street is one of Powiśle’s secret joys. But while it’s already home to a couple of restaurants and boutiques, it’s profile has been lifted a few notches further with the opening of Soba, a small venue that announces its presence with, from the exterior, an attractive purple neon hung from a collection of wooden panels. Inside, it’s every bit as appealing with the dark timber décor adorned with cute Japanese trinkets and curious touches such as decorative snails, patches of moss and wood-carved mushrooms. With a busy open kitchen providing an extra slice of good-natured drama, it’s a place that’s vibrant and intimate
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(perhaps a little too much in these supposedly socially distanced times). Regardless, just stepping through the door is enough to boost your day.
AND WHAT’S SOBA!?
Not to be confused with udon, these buckwheat noodles are thinner and more delicate than their more famous relation. Best enjoyed with a green tea or a homemade kombucha, find them served soba seiro-style (cold and with a dipping sauce) or kake-style in a warm broth clotted with additions such as duck breast and mushrooms. And if you’re not easily shamed, you can even ask for bukkake – doing so results in the arrival of noodles, a broth in a ceramic carafe, and a heap of spicy pork, eggplant, white
turnip, chives and wasabi. You’ll love it straight away. Featuring a small array of starters and deserts (in the case of the former, grilled mackerel and miso sauce, and for the latter, buckwheat Chantilly cream with white chocolate and a sprinkle of finely chopped buckwheat popcorn), you won’t ever feel spoiled for choice, but you will feel spoiled for taste. But then that’s no surprise. Owned by the same duo behind the magnificent La Sirena, the legendary Dzuirka od Klucza and the highly recommended Arigator, their latest venture is proof that there is nothing that this couple can’t do. These are dark days for Warsaw’s dining scene, but with places like Soba opening you’d never even guess.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
The subtle flavors of Japan come alive on atmospheric Radna…
PARTNER
SPOTLIGHT
THE SECRET IS IN OUR BEEF! Join us for some of Poland’s best steaks…
S
pecializing in steaks, Beef N’ Pepper are proud to serve some of the best meat found in Warsaw. Grilled over flames with volcanic lava, our unique-tasting meats include Polish Heifer steaks, Hereford steaks, pure Black Angus beef tenderloin not to mention Irish and Argentinean beef appearing in our premium section. For us, quality is a priority which is why we pay attention to specially sourcing beef from local breeders before expertly ageing it. Ensuring each cut is perfect, our chef oversees the delivery of each and every single steak that arrives to our kitchen.
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But while steak is our priority, we never overlook the other positions on our menu, be they fish & seafood, salads or poultry – and leaving without sampling dessert is unforgivable, more so if it is our chocolate ball served with ice cream and salted caramel. Guaranteeing a perfect evening are our professional bartenders: serving from a comprehensivelystocked bar, we guarantee you’ll fine the wine and cocktails that are perfect for the moment! Beef N’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl
EAT! Listings
By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.
american 35 chinese 35 comfort food 35 fine dining 36 french 37 georgian 38 greek 38 hungarian 38 indian 38 international 39 italian 41 japanese 42 korean 42 latin & spanish 43 mexican 43 middle eastern 44 polish 44 seafood 45 steak houses 45 thai 46 vegan 46 he ongoing pandemic * Tsituation and subsequent
economic knock-on forces us to keep our listings skimpier than usual: for a more comprehensive set of restaurant reviews join us online at: warsawinsider.pl
american
comfort food
Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com
Drożdż The seeming simplicity of the design belies its striking beauty: like strange, alien planets, spherical lights dangle from the tall ceilings casting the concrete colored interiors in a pinkish-amber glow that feels tastefully restrained. Food-wise, you’ll enjoy it. A zillion steps beyond what you’d expect from a neighborhood pizzeria, find wonderful leopard-spotted pizzas that are by far the best in this slice of Warsaw. (C1) ul. Andersa 22
chinese
Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar
Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Pastrami Bistro This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50 warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings
As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!
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Le Cedre 61
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(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166
Le Cedre 84
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Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever: stars await, and anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka. restaurant
Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to
www.lecedre.pl
Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska
fine dining
(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999
saetive sl c.al from
present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Closed since the lockdown, the ongoing recruitment of new staff suggests the imminent and keenly awaited relaunch of this world-class venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl
Zkurczybyk Roll in for beautifully juicy chicken inside a crispy, crunchy coat smothered and slathered in an array of sauces ranging from mango-chilli to classic hot; savagely messy, these are things of near profound, holy beauty. Not in the mood for wings? No problem. Instead, wrap your jaw around buttery, meaty sandwiches the size of a breeze block. And food aside, the hip hop / steam punk vibe (corrugated iron sheets, stools with bicycle pedals for foot rests, ammo boxes, and turntables emblazoned with music heroes), jives well with an atmosphere that’s high on banter and bravado. ul. Poznańska 7
Le Cedre Lounge
of st, mor ul.
Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1
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Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw Nobu Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini.
EAT! Listings We’re visiting soon and can’t wait to tell you all about it in our October edition. (C6) ul. Wilcza 73 Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of
highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a
thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today
french
L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl
Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe. Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com
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EAT! Listings georgian Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22
greek & turkish Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments. Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food,
that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16 Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7
hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl
indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl
Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl
Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-ofcurry.pl
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EAT! Listings international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl
goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for
miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the
Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty
Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl
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FOOD HALLS & HAPPENINGS Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Lunapark Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen. Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. For all the prowling stilt walkers and street performers, the key attraction is the Mini Market, a superb line-up of ethnic food stalls. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla Elektrownia Powiśle Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com Such is the choice you could eat here for a year and still never get bored. The food hall is a beauty with highlights involving cheesesteaks from Philly’s Finest and hot wings from Kura Złota, but there’s no shortage of legitimate sit-down restaurants either. Created by Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki, Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 offers an edgy menu (bao burgers, kimchi hot dogs, ceviche, batata fries) complimented by funky cocktails and a post-industrial interior. Nocny Market This weekend market brings together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands on a disused train platform illuminated with neon. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market is the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket
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first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neobistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some oneoff: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior
EAT! Listings featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Restauracja Forty It’s not so much a garden that Forty have, but a whole bloody park! Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good, however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths: oyster mushrooms, for example, served inside pillowy bao with rice mayonnaise or sorrel soup that’s so vivid and refreshing as to defy expectations. ul.
Racławicka 99, restauracjaforty.pl Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket,
casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl
italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing
Visit Focaccia and let yourself be tempted Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl
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2020-08-19 14:57:25 warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Dziurka od Klucza Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. This they do in a spectacular vaulted interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed
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brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise? Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl
japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do
so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl
korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition
EAT! Listings reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45
latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday
Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl
mexican Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads
in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 MariCruz Mission Burrito Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a
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EAT! Listings food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of backdrop when dealing with hand-held food. And what’s with the “Mission” part? That sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max with slow-cooked ingredients and boisterous homemade salsas. ul. Zgoda 3, maricruz.pl
middle eastern Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul. Gagarina 33
Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a
bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin
drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl
polish Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” Bez Gwiazdek While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Dawne Smaki The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s
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EAT! Listings pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry: simply but beautiful. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. Boosting the homespun charm are wall paintings depicting pastoral scenes from pre-war Prussia. (D7) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar Zielony Niedźwiedź Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature
and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl
seafood
L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl
steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. For full review, see p. TK. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/ bykbar Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a fullblooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli
and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl
thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices
– queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl
vegan Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11
Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Tel Aviv A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa, Mokotów, and Muranów, their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. Various locations, veganramenshop.pl
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First Sips
CZECH IT OUT PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Magnificent as the international beer reformation has been, sometimes you just want to take a step back from all the crazy craft innovations and have a good honest pint. Well, at Česká Kozlovna that’s exactly what you get. Vast and slick (perhaps a little too much so), it’s to here a mixed crowd heads to enjoy hefty plates of schnitzel and frothy pints of lager poured from a so-called ‘tank system’ that’s designed to maintain the beer’s freshness. And yes, it really does. If the interiors feel a little too polished and perfect for the authentic Czech experience, then that’s absolutely offset by the kind of beer you'd happily bathe in: served in a variety of ways, don’t miss either the Mliko (a full pint of creamy foam) or the Teraz Ceska (a dark and light beer mix served with a fluffy head). Česká Kozlovna Piękna 11, ceskakozlovna.pl
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drinks REVIEW
Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B
REOPENING
THE LEGEND RETURNS!
Back from the dead, Warsaw welcomes the return of Warszawa Powiśle… THE PAST…
Touting a cosmic form inspired by the Soviet Union’s forays into space, the former ticket booth at PKP Powiśle train station was completed in 1963 to a design by Piotr Szymaniak and Arseniusz Romanowicz (who would later go on to design Dworzec Centralny) and has since been described by critics as a ‘pearl of modernism’. A cult port-of-call on any tour of post-war architectural gems, the saucer-shaped building has also played a key role in the artistic life of the city: appearing in a video recorded in 2002 by cult band Super Girl & Romantic Boys, it was later revived as the popular Warszawa Powiśle dive bar. For many, it was here that Warsaw’s hipster movement was first born a decade or so ago. When Warszawa Powiśle seemingly closed their doors forever a few months back the wails could be heard across the city. But not so fast. Reopened in late August, its revised form has seen the look updated in a manner that’s thoughtful and of the hour. Retro-inspired, that’s meant the careful restoration of the wooden benches that curve around the interior, not to mention the addition of triangular vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed to the big sounds of the 80s: Jackson, Idol, Sting, Prince. You get the drift. Yet now, as then, Warszawa Powiśle is about what happens on the outside rather than the in. Sat in the shadows of Poniatowski Bridge, the terrace is the place to be. Hemmed in by an arcing bank of Corona-emblazoned deckchairs, it’s here that the flocks head to drink by the glowing blocks that double as tables. Once a crucible of hipsterdom, everything you lay eyes on – from the place to the people – feels like an upgrade on what came before. If it was cool then, now it’s even cooler.
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
… AND THE PRESENT
Drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale gastro-pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right: even if you choose to disregard all of the above, head here for a gorgeous summer terrace filled out with leafy succulents and wooden decking. From the off, it’s a place that screams, “off with the tie, there’s drinks to be had!” Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl
Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61
Bar Studio The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl
Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)
Elektrownia Powisłe Moving past the people coiled out on the deckchairs outside, the food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. (E3) ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49
and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com
Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl
Offside Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. (G1) ul. Brzeska 16 Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl
Koko & Roy Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd
Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the warsawinsider.pl
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drink! Listings! colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl
Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17
Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,
profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Wozownia Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinkswise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16
cafés Asfalt The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Helping that is a choice of tunes that’s nothing if not alternative: reggae, dub, hip hop, funk, soul and a little bit of jazz. And being owned by a Polish record label, there’s no shortage of maverick local sounds either. Laidback and neighborly, it’s a place designed for hip locals to drop in, chill out. You should as well. (E3) ul. Tamka 37
oparyabsurdu.pl
Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl
Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal
Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs,
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it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza
Columbus Café Proud to source their beans from the planet’s top plantations, Columbus present top brews and summer sips in a pleasingly homey, wood-clad space staring out onto Pl. Konesera. Pl. Konesera 2 Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Fat White Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. (C1) ul. Andersa 6
Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee
Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered
drink! Listings! from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30
with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4)
Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.
Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control.
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Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej
Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33
clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com
Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung
ul. Wioślarska 6
(E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl
cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27
clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul. Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl
Koneser Bar 3/4 Perched on the top of the Polish Vodka Museum this bar offers more than just stonking views of the Praga district from their sunny terrace: of note are beautiful vodka-based cocktails prepared in an atmospheric interior molded from carefully restored raw materials. Pl. Konesera 1 Loreta As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup – a sophisticated mix of whisky, agave, chili and lemon. Good as these signature drinks are, the best bet is to challenge the gunslingers at the bar to make something a little more personal: their ad-libbed cocktails are a highlight. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)
Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.
Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego,
(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl
mr-oh.com
Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which
Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse T you’d readC about in Dickens, position R HE MOST
EFRESHINGLY
IVILIZED
PLACES TO MEETTM CIGARS & WHISKY
≈
WINE & CHAMPAGNE
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COCKTAILS & CUSINE
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drink! Listings yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1
The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2)
and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49
Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl
Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers glinting behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com
ul. Wierzbowa 11
Syreni Śpiew Koneser Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, plush sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead in your tracks. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. (G1) Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/ syrenispiew
Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations,
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craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42
Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16
Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. (C1) ul. Andersa 23 Cuda Na Kiju Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. For those averse to the sun, find outdoor seating extending well beyond and into the echoing, shaded courtyard of this immense, impressive building. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12
Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint.
drink! Listings (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl
Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4
is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl
Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Maryensztadt Craft Beer
Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul.
You need not go far to escape the baying
Nowomiejska 10
Nowogrodzka 25
Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers
mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11
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drink! Listings for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl
1 Sun Salon For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska
11 Listopada 22
Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska Niebo Noted for the diversity of its events program, Niebo does it all: from comedy nights to vintage markets via performances from cult acts such as Neneh Cherry and Black Sun Empire. The gritty look complements the artsy, off-radar vib. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 21, fb.com/niebo
live music
wine bars
Ale Wino! Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska
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Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance
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Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl
12, fb.com/klubpoglos
24/26, 1sun.pl
12 on 14 For a country with such a noble jazz tradition the paucity of dedicated clubs in the capital feels like an aberration. Doing a sterling job of filling that void are 12 on 14, a venue whose courtyard location lends a feeling of stepping into the unknown. Decorated with the requisite portraits of trumpet tooting legends, the debonair, moody confines match well with the sounds at hand. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego
is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul.
48, alewino.pl
Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl
Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4,
Bubbles Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl.
nowina.waw.pl
Piłsudskiego 9
22, fb.com/winebarrusiko
Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie
STRIKE A POSE! PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
Occupying 500 square meters of the Kolmex office building, head here (selfie stick: advisable) to prowl a network of rooms decked out with Instagramable decoys and diversions that range from the anticipated angel wings and inflatable swans to the downright bizarre: an upside down bedroom; a menacing giant Lego figure; a unicorn; a bathtub with a bear; a gold-sprayed bathroom; and a pool filled with pink rubber balls. Teeming with optical illusions designed to result in mind-bending snaps for your social media, it’s by no means everyone’s cup of tea. And as for billing itself as a museum, then no, it most certainly isn’t. Providing 30-minutes or so of light relief, it's a quirky-cool distraction for all those that place a high value on their Facebook likes. Selfie Museum Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 80/82 (admission: zł. 36 for adults)
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spas & salons
massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska
Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl
Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing,
49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl
Retail Elektrownia Powiśle Amid the post-industrial interiors of a former power plant discover a truly non-standard retail offer. Though international brands are present (e.g. Urban Outfitters, Napapijri, Converse, Cos and Hugo Boss), the spotlight is firmly on Polish brands. Of these, fashion mavens just love Paprocki&Brzozowski and the proudly Polish Jestem Slow Concept Store. When you’re done with those, check the Beauty Hall or the weekend Plonoteka farmers’ market. ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
Koneser’s Art Scene
A multi-functional project in the truest sense of the word, art has proved never far from the heart of Centrum Praskie Koneser.
Leonarda Art Gallery Established as a continuation of the Mostra Gallery, Leonarda was founded by Lena Szwed-Strużyńska, a prominent art dealer on the scene. Cooperating with various industry names, she’s credited with organizing dozens of exhibitions both in Poland and abroad.
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TotuArt Gallery ToTuart focuses on contemporary art, presenting the works of selected artists, among those active in painting, sculpture, graphic art, drawing, photography and ceramics. As well as this, they enjoy a burgeoning reputation in the field of decorative and investment art.
Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2020
Dom ze Sztuką Dom ze Sztuką is where art and social issues combine for the greater good: founded by Katarzyna Czajka, the paintings inside this gallery have been donated by artists with the proceeds supporting the missionary activities of the homeless charity Fundacja Godnie Żyć.
Galeria Salon Akademii ASP This gallery presents and promotes contemporary art and artists associated with the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. Individual and group exhibitions feature both Polish and foreign artists and have acquired a reputation for being challenging and thought provoking.
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CLASSROOM NOTES News from Warsaw's top schools
Fostering international mindedness through a comprehensive IB program We equip students for life beyond the classroom... The American School of Warsaw sees the future reflected in our students’ independent thinking, humane values, and ethical actions. We envision our students as active and responsible world citizens who are principled, compassionate, and innovative life-long learners and leaders. By offering the three IB programmes (PYP, MYP, and DP) in addition to the American high school diploma, ASW prepares students for colleges and universities around the world. Our educational program balances academics with the arts, athletics, activities, design, technology, and service. We equip students for life beyond the classroom, teaching them to be responsible, principled, and compassionate global citizens. The MYP is a student-centered, conceptual program that puts students in the role of active learners. Students engage with 8 different subject areas (Mathematics, Sciences, English Language & Literature, Physical & Health Education, Individuals & Societies, Design, Arts, and Language Acquisition) in order to engage in opportunities to apply their learning in the real-world. This inquiry-based program encourages students to take action in their learning, looking for the connections between subject areas, and developing approaches to learning skills that will carry
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them throughout their lives. All subjects focus on skills in communication, research, self-management, and social competence. We mentor each child and help them to cultivate their talents and interests in ways that lead to them becoming flexible, internationally-minded critical thinkers. The high school program is divided into the final two years of the MYP and the IB Diploma Programme (DP). Students in grades 11 and 12 can choose to participate either as a full IB Diploma student or by taking part in individual courses. The IB DP is a rigorous academic endeavor that will see students take full ownership of their own learning. ASW’s upper school is a tight-knit community that fosters close ties between teachers and students. The school also offers a wide variety of athletics, activities, and other opportunities for students to cultivate their own interests. Throughout their time at ASW, students are offered ample opportunities to get involved in the wider community through social initiatives coordinated by our school’s Service department, either through curriculum or through clubs and extracurricular activities. American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), aswarsaw.org
Introducing The WMHS
Better learning in a studentcentered environment… Warsaw Montessori High School (WMHS) is a newly accredited school in the International Baccalaureate (IB) system. WMHS boasts twenty years’ experience in education via their family of schools that use the Montessori philosophy. Offering a four-year high school program which invites students of all nationalities to undertake an education in both science and the humanities, lessons at WMHS are conducted in English. WMHS aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy and service. This pairs well with
“Students spend two years preparing for the two-year IB programme after which they undertake exams to receive the internationally recognized IB diploma”
The IB Standard
The British School Warsaw leads the way…
the IB system in that the student-centered approach of Montessori forms students who are inquirers, life-long learners, and critical thinkers who reflect on the results of their actions in order to build an understanding of the world. In our school we denounce racism, xenophobia and other prejudices and in an atmosphere of friendliness and intercultural understanding we create a safe and inclusive environment for a rigorous academic program. Students spend two years preparing for the two-year IB programme after which they undertake exams to receive the internationally recognized IB diploma. WMHS W. Pytlasińskiego 13, highschool.wmf.edu.pl
Here at the British School Warsaw we are proud to be an IB school and to have been accredited since 2001; nineteen years of experience in delivering what we believe to be an outstanding curriculum for our young adults. Our students are at the heart of our provision and all that we do and we firmly believe that there is no better preparation for university and beyond than the IB Diploma. Why, might you ask? Well, there are many outstanding aspects of the IB Diploma and this article will not suffice to cover them all. I have therefore highlighted some of the key aspects which fully prepare our students, not just for university, but as global citizens for the workplace ready to make meaningful contributions to society. The foundations of the IB program is the IB Learner Profile, a set of key aims which ensure that our students become learners who are: inquirers; knowledgeable; thinkers; communicators; principled; open-minded; caring; risk-takers; balanced; reflective As employers look more and more for those soft skills of problem-solving, independence, resilience, creativity and teamwork, it is clear that any student
emerging from the rigorous IB Diploma program will stand out from the crowd in the ever-competitive world of university applications and employment. Another vital aspect of the IB Diploma is the importance placed on the whole learner; that learning is not just the academic but the ability to contribute to society, to those in need. This is accomplished in the form of CAS (Creativity, Activity & Service) where students ensure they enhance their personal development. Further, a HESA* study found that of 1.2 million pupils who sat A-Levels and 48,700 pupils who took the IB diploma between 2007 and 2013, the IB students had a 57% greater likelihood of attending one of the top 20 UK universities than students who study traditional A-Levels. Our Diploma students are independent learners who accrue and develop time management and organisation skills which we feel sets them at an advantage when they embark on their university studies. The British School Warsaw ul. Limanowskiego 15, nordangliaeducation.com
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The Future Of Education
As the school year prepares to begin in the most extraordinary circumstances possible, Headmaster Dr Karolina Watras discusses the vision of Poland’s most prestigious school, Akademeia High School. WI: How has the pandemic affected schooling and what solutions have you enacted as a result? KW: The pandemic has affected all schools worldwide and has caused unprecedented disruption to all educational systems. At Akademeia High School, we had closely observed the developments in the rise of Coronavirus cases and had prepared to move online ahead of the school closures in Poland. Moreover, we had imposed quarantine on all students returning from their winter holidays in Italy so we already had had the experience of hybrid teaching, with some of our students participating in their lessons online already in February. As a result, we were able to move our full teaching timetable to online lessons overnight.
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Our strategy has been to keep the school running as close to normal as possible. Our teachers adapted quickly and found new creative ways of engaging the students in this new virtual environment. There was a lot of collaboration and exchanges of ideas in our online Teachers’ Room, with our faculty sharing best online teaching practices and ways of keeping online lessons fun while continuing to cover all the curricula. We also endeavoured to nurture and develop our school community through online assemblies, mentoring hours and a number of new initiatives: from an online poetry club, through baking and cooking classes, yoga sessions and sport lessons and challenges. Looking back, I think it was preserving the sense of community despite
not being physically in the school that kept everyone motivated. Of course, there were plenty of challenges. The strain of extensive screen time as well as the uncertainty that we’ve been all experiencing as a society were and still are undeniable. Our Wellbeing Team have been of invaluable help in this respect, supporting students through individual consultations and all-school initiatives, with extensive guidance on how to best cope with the situation to our pupils, parents and teachers. All in all, it was a team effort and at the end, it brought our school community closer together.
The school follows a British curriculum – can you explain why and how this differs from the Polish education and IB and why you believe this
B R O U G H T T O Y O U BY
is better for your pupils? A Levels allow for a more tailored academic programme, best suited to the interests and strengths of an individual student. There are no compulsory subjects. Pupils have a free choice of what they want to learn and the direction they wish to follow as they prepare for their undergraduate studies. A Level subjects must be well chosen, and students need to be prepared for them in order to maximise their learning possibilities. Our two-year programme of iGCSE and Akademeia Assessed Courses prepares students to discover the best pathway for their A Level studies. Furthermore, because students do fewer (3-4) subjects, they have time to pursue their interests outside of the classroom through extra readings, additional courses and excursions. Our art students, for instance, regularly meet with leading practitioners and curators, while science students frequently visit laboratories at some of the most prestigious institutions and companies. In terms of content, A Levels allow students to explore their subjects in much more depth, focusing on the skills that are crucial for their specific areas of study. From mathematics through humanities and social sciences, great emphasis is placed on developing analytical and critical thinking skills. A Levels are, therefore, the best preparation for university and professional life. Our students develop great autonomy and creativity in the way they approach their studies and the world around them, and these are the qualities that are most sought after in today’s society. Who are your pupils and what does the school prepare them for – specifically, to which universities are they gaining entrance? Our school is academically selective and thus attracts ambitious and talented young people. Our pupils come from socially and culturally diverse backgrounds. 20% of our students are scholars from abroad and outside of Warsaw. Most recently, we saw an
increase in applications from Central and Eastern Europe. Our students also come from different educational systems, many of them joining in Year 12 due to the possibilities that A Levels open for the last two years of high school. From an academic perspective, our school does not specialise in a particular set of subjects. Our results are equally strong across all departments. Many of our students pursue mathematics and natural sciences, through the robust iGCSE and A Level curricula, and cocurricular programmes (Coding, Astrophysics, Biochemistry, Medicine).
Part of our mission is to make our students aware that there are different definitions of success and to provide them with the tools to define what success means to them.
Equally, we have a vibrant artistic community, with pupils pursuing A Levels in Music, Art and Design, Photography and Drama. We foster interdisciplinary collaborations between different departments in the way that our curricula are structured and through interdepartmental projects run by teachers and students. Our students are thus able to explore a variety of potential career pathways. This is reflected in our students’ university destinations at the best universities in the world both in the UK (University of Cambridge; University of Oxford; University College London; Imperial College and London School
of Economics) and in Europe or US (Esade Business School, Barcelona; University of Amsterdam; Design Academy Eindhoven; Parsons School of Design, New York).
Could you expand on your scholarship program? Akademeia High School offers extensive scholarship programmes. We run artistic and academic scholarships for exceptional students who demonstrate an intellectual flair and a strong desire to excel artistically or academically. Scholarship candidates go through a demanding application process that involves several stages of complex assessment, so that we can learn more about their academic skills and knowledge as well as their attitude as young people and students. On the other hand, the assessment process also gives potential scholars an opportunity to find out more about the school. Our scholarships cover up to 100% of the school fees, boarding and subsistence. We also work with a number of Polish and international organisations to extend our outreach programmes. How does your school support students beyond the core curricula? How can they develop their cocurricular interests? At Akademeia, we believe in multidimensional education that goes beyond the classroom. The school offers a wide range of afternoon activities; from debating, through the school magazine and school musical to more academic clubs that prepare our students for their undergraduate studies at the top universities. We are invested in the holistic growth of our students. Last year, we introduced the Personal Development Scheme, which has become an integral part of our school life. In the lower years, pupils participate in a number of workshops that allow them to develop soft skills and teach them how to be more cooperative and empathetic towards others. warsawinsider.pl
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The foundation of PDS is projectbased learning and empowering our students to realise their own initiatives and ideas through entrepreneurial and charity schemes. In the final two years of the school, students prepare for their university degrees through extracurricular courses and individual projects under the supervision of a dedicated Higher Education and Career Advice Team. Moreover, we believe that emotional and psychological wellbeing is essential for academic success and more importantly, for a happy life. Our purpose is to support students through their academic journey and to help them develop strategies to overcome future challenges.
What are your school’s main principles? What is the ultimate vision? We believe that education must be founded on dialogue and a partnership between teachers, students and parents. Dialogue underpins all of our teaching and mentoring. It is through dialogue that students can develop learner autonomy and self-awareness. These qualities are crucial in fulfilling one’s intellectual and creative potential, and we instil in our students a desire to always reach higher. Moreover, critical thinking lies at the heart of all our curricula and equips our students to navigate through their subjects and the challenges of the contemporary information age. Academic excellence and outstanding results are certainly integral to this vision. This year 50% of our A Level results were graded A* and 85% of our entries were awarded A* or A grades. To put this into context, top universities in the world, require A*AA or A*A*A. But the outstanding grades are just part of our students’ success. The school pursues a pre-university university model, which means that our students develop their independence and confidence on both an academic and personal level. Our students become fearless and ready to conquer whatever uncharted territories they may encounter in life.
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Despite its relatively young age, the school has already earned a prestigious reputation in Poland. How has this been achieved in such a short space of time? What our parents and students repeatedly tell us is that we are prepared to go the extra mile for each of our pupils and we care deeply for their academic and personal growth. This leads to outstanding academic results and an array of top university destinations among our graduates. Small class sizes (maximum 12) and a very high teacher to student ratio (4:1) certainly help. However, I believe it is the unique Akademeia faculty that makes all of the above possible. Our teachers are not only experts in their fields but also real enthusiasts, able to share their passions with others. The most frequently cited feature of our school that is considered the best by our students and parents alike, are the teachers. They are crucial in creating
a stimulating and nurturing environment, in which students can progress with confidence and ambition, and where they find the support when they need it.
Finally, what is your message to parents considering sending their children to the school. Good education is the foundation for a successful and fulfilled life. Part of our mission is to make our students aware that there are different definitions of success and to provide them with the tools to define what success means to them. If you are looking for a school that provides the highest standard of teaching and will take as much care and joy in your child’s growth as you would, Akademeia High School is the right school for you. Akademeia High School ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, www.akademeia.edu.pl
Karolina Watras MA, MPhil, PhD (Cantab) Headmaster of Akademeia High School Headmaster Dr Karolina Watras completed her A Levels at Cheltenham Ladies’ College in the UK. She received her undergraduate degree in History of Art from Christ’s College, Cambridge. Dr. Watras studied Gothic Architecture for a Masters at the Courtauld Institute of Art, London and subsequently returned to Cambridge to pursue her MPhil and doctoral research at Jesus College. Dr Watras has worked at the University of Cambridge as a supervisor and Affiliated Lecturer at the Department of History of Art, Acting Director of Studies at Jesus and Trinity Colleges, and course leader at the Institute of Continuing Education. She returned to Poland to cocreate Akademeia High School in 2014.
LEARNING preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.
British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years
The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students.
warsaw montessori family
Warsaw Montessori Schools
Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19
Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek
Elementary Szwoleżerów 4
„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a
Montessori High School The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months
Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl
www.wmf.edu.pl warsawinsider.pl
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BROUGHT TO YOU BY
SOLUTIONS FOR CORONA TIMES
Stepping in to prevent your business from going viral in all the wrong ways, epiXpert have become the heroes of hour!
E
stablished to support firms, schools and other such organizations as they return to some semblance of normality, epiXpert have fast become the go-to experts for those seeking peace of mind in these paranoid times. “The founders of epiXpert are all business owners and parents, and we understand and empathize with all the challenges that organizations had to go through in the first half of 2020,” says epiXperts Jarek Oleszczuk. “Furthermore, most of our staff have medical backgrounds as well, so we are also able to sift through publicly available information with a medical lens to offer only evidencebased solutions.” Specializing in epidemiological risk management, this translates to mean, in essence, fireproofing businesses from covid-19 via a three-goal plan that seeks to prevent the virus entering a place of business; containing in the event that it does; and allowing work or education to continue as normally as possible. To meet this end, screening is key. Conducted by employees wearing E.T-style protective clothing, once the
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initial surprise of seeing such characters walk through the door subsides the process is fast, effective and pain-free. Based on swab samples (a pin prick to the finger and a quick nasal poke around), it’s a procedure that takes under five minutes. Thereafter, results are delivered within thirty to forty-minutes inside a sealed envelope. Featuring a list of recommendations and further steps to be taken (if any), the explanations are kept both simple and understandable and delivered in either Polish or English-language. “Our approach is based on weekly swab testing using sample pooling methodology, supplemented by a daily risk assessment algorithm in a mobile application,” adds Oleszczuk. “The methodology is resource-light and costs a fraction of individual RT-PCR tests. On top of that, our strategy has been validated by epidemiologists from Harvard University and will likely become gold standard.” epiXpert ul. Moniuszki 1A, epixpert.pl
up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep. edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum
follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl
schools Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden.ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl
Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB
Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting
admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl
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o make education fun, take steps that may seem crazy. Use textbooks less and abandon rote exercises in favor of fun and cooperation, which bring much better results - says Agnieszka Ejdys, cofounder of Joy Primary School.
Putting The Joy Into Education
Interview with Agnieszka Ejdys, co-founder of Joy Primary School in Warsaw INTERVIEW BY EWA ŚWIERŻEWSKA
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WI: Why would you start making changes to education? AE: Children born today will enter the labor market in 2045. Very rapid technological progress means we can’t imagine what the world will be like then. Yuval Noah Harari, in his book “21 Lessons for the 21st Century,” defined a set of skills one should have to keep up with the labor market in 20-30 years, but also to succeed in personal life: communication, critical thinking, creativity, cooperation, emotional intelligence, and the ability to adapt to the competences of the future. Once we know what should guide modern education, we must ask how do we make sure schools teach them. Maybe it makes sense to draw on proven patterns? There is no shortage of proven educational systems that work. British
B R O U G H T T O Y O U BY
Communication, critical thinking, creativity, cooperation, emotional intelligence, and the ability to adapt to the competences of the future
education, which has been at a good level for many years, teaches critical thinking, self-presentation, self-confidence, and discussion skills. Singapore and Hong Kong, leaders in test results for years, are very demanding, they push kids really hard, which translates into, e.g. a high number of suicides. Meanwhile, the Finnish education system has become a phenomenon. It has been talked about for years, but few people know what’s behind it.
Why did it take so many years to figure this out? Finns reformed their education, but they were not focused on spectacular achievements, so few people noticed. And then suddenly, in 2001, they became the European education leader. They left the British far behind, with only Hong Kong and Singapore ahead of them in the world. Study trips to Finland began – from the USA, Great Britain and even Benelux, which also have great education systems; they sent experts to observe what could be learned and implemented back home. Unfortunately, the experts returned to their countries terrified, with the feeling that kids were doing nothing at Finnish schools.
They were unable to name the phenomenon.
But in the end, someone did? Yes, an American teacher who came to work in Finland and described what you might call, “children running around outside, relaxed, with very few (boring) classes.” In “Teach Like Finland” Timothy D. Walker captures the essence of Finnish education, in which the overriding goal is joy and happiness. The Finns had not described it that way before. Only later did the Finnish Ministry of Education admit that the joy of teaching and the joy of learning are not tools, as was said earlier, but the overriding aim. But how do you make education fun, and therefore more effective? Walker identified several factors he believes make education enjoyable. First of all, you need to make sure everyone feels good – through relaxing, standing instead of sitting, introducing movement or just opening a window. The second element is support, i.e. providing students with a sense of security and an individual approach to each person’s needs. Another one
is independence, i.e. permission to express one’s own opinions, take action, but also to make mistakes – this is how children discover a sense of agency. And the last factor, i.e. skills - is one of the goals of education, and acquiring them enables shaping a self-confident person. It is not just about knowledge, but also life skills used outside of school. This leads to a way of thinking based on cooperation and non-competition – between teachers and among students, enjoying the moment. There are plenty of ways to do this, and only the school team’s creativity decides which tools to use to achieve these goals. I know from practice that the most difficult thing is to change the way of thinking, replace competition (both between teachers and students) with cooperation and support. It is important to take steps that may seem incomprehensible. For example, at the stage of early childhood education (grades 0-3), limit the use of textbooks, workbooks or abandon practicing drawing lines, which supposedly prepares kids to learn to write, in favor of activities that bring much better results. warsawinsider.pl
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American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org
British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org
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The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain
and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl
Joy Primary School Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and cooperation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl
Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl
school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/ company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@
Warsaw Montessori Middle School Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A
Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.
(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl
Warsaw Montessori High School Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The
Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.
cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com
ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl
monnet international school
PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN
IB World School no 001483
's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N
Education for a better world
Belwederska 6a, Warsaw
www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl
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THE SIEGE OF WARSAW Whilst the 1944 Warsaw Uprising has
come increasingly under the spotlight this century, the original 1939 Siege of Warsaw has been left largely overlooked despite the ramifications it was to have.
A
fter months of simmering crossborder tensions, the world woke on the morning of September 1st, 1939, to news that German forces had invaded Poland. While the immediate fighting took place on the western borders and the Free City of Danzig to the north, the Polish capital wasn’t exempt from casualties: “Warsaw attracted the Wehrmacht’s special fury,” wrote Norman Davies in his groundbreaking work, Rising ’44. “It was mercilessly attacked by shrieking Stuka divebombers from the dawn of the very first day.”
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Hitting a range of both strategic and civilian targets, from the outset it became clear this was to be a war of no rules, something captured to haunting effect by an American photographer by the name of Julien Bryan. Writing later about one of the terror bombings that he witnessed, Bryan recalled: “While I was photographing the bodies, a little ten-year old girl came running up and stood transfixed by one of the dead. The woman was her older sister. The child had never before seen death and couldn’t understand why her sister would not speak to her... The child looked at us in bewilderment.” Though stubborn and courageous, Polish forces were forced into a quick retreat by the German Blitzkrieg tactics, and by September 8th Nazi units had reached the outskirts of Warsaw. By the following week, the city was surrounded. But rather than wave the white flag, the people of Warsaw rose to the challenges facing them, rallied by the rousing speeches of Mayor Stefan Starzyński. When the Germans issued a demand for the city’s unconditional surrender on September 15th, the Poles answered by fortifying the city further. “Men, women and children worked into the night digging trenches in parks, playgrounds and vacant lots,” reported one newspaper at the time. “Wealthy Warsaw aristocrats were chauffeured to defence sites where they toiled alongside office workers.” The refusal to capitulate infuriated the Germans. “Angered by the unexpected setback,” wrote Davies, “the German High Command decided to pound the city into submission.” With Stalin invading from the east on September 17th, the noose was tightening by the hour, yet still the Poles fought grimly on. For their part, Warsaw Radio continued to broadcast segments of Chopin’s Polonaise every thirty seconds to remind the outside world of the city’s plight. But despite the dogged resistance, this was a battle that could never be won; with no aid in sight, casualties mounting and food reserves at an end the city surrendered on September 28th. Over 50,000 civilians had been killed, and approximately 15% of the city ruined – including the Royal Castle. Yet if the residents of Warsaw thought it could not get any worse, they would soon learn that this was but the opening act of a tragedy that would shake the nation to its core.
WIKICOMMONS/PUBLIC DOMAIN
Looking back
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