Warsaw Insider August 2012 # 192

Memories of the Uprising page 19

Exploring Warsaw’s Filtry Station Hidden City page 22

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AUGUST 2012

The Surprise of the Summer

I’

ve had a few surprises catch me off guard this summer, but only one that left me punch drunk. It came at the start of July, and appeared in the Daily Mail. Writing his synopsis of Euro 2012, journalist Ian Ladyman pondered the question which host city ‘you’d return to with your wife’. “For sheer majesty, drama and a sense of history,” he noted, “it has to be beautiful Warsaw.” I nearly dropped my pint. It’s part of my job to read anything and everything about this city, and I can truly say I’ve never heard it referenced in such gushing terms. That such a eulogy was delivered in the Daily Mail, a paper which doesn’t like anything if it’s not cricket or the Queen, bamboozled me even more. It’s clear to anyone that’s lived here a while that the city has turned a corner, but to see this recognized by outsiders is still a bit surreal – and even more so when it’s favored over such established charmers as Gdańsk, Poznań, Wrocław and Lvov. Yay gods, when I first started in Warsaw, embassy robots received a ‘hardship bonus’ to compensate being sent(enced) here. Now, in a relatively short space of time, Poland’s capital is being trumpeted as a ‘go to’ destination. And with the ribbon finally cut on Modlin Aiport, we can certainly expect an increase in people who take Ladyman’s advice. For the most part, no doubt, such people will be circulating in places like Old Town. For a less obvious side to Warsaw, however, they’d do well to value this Insider. Lined up for you this issue we’re proud to bring you the fuzzy parts of Warsaw the tourist pamphlets don’t even know about – places like the Finnish Houses and the Filtry water station – insider secrets that often don’t make the radar. Of course, we’re not averse to flapping around with maps and cameras ourselves, and to demonstrate that you’ll find us following the herds to Kazimierz Dolny. Finally, this issue, we take a look back at the Warsaw Uprising, the heroic rebellion that left Warsaw practically deleted from the map. That Warsaw survives, let alone thrives, is the ultimate testament to the people of this city. See you next time.

on the cover On our very, err, green cover this issue, we’ve got the Finnish Houses – the little chalets which constitute the Os. Fińskich housing development. For the story behind them, check p. 26. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

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what’s inside

AUGUST 2012

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

05 O pener Singer Festival 06 Calendar Music, art and events around town 07 Films Movie openings 08 Museums Dates and shows 35 I nsider’s Pick Soul Kitchen 40 The Luncheonettes Balsam

26 INfront

11 News in Brief Reflections on Euro 2012, a faulty tower, and news bites from across the nation 14 Trends The rise of the communal table 16 Relics of the PRL Focus on Solidarity

FEATURES

18 Warsaw Uprising Two survivors revisit the past Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Editorial Intern Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

61 Insider’s Pick Follow Me

22 Urban Exploration Inside the Filtry Water Station 26 Hidden City The plight of the Finnish Houses 30 City Tour Warsaw on Segway

55 Insider’s Pick Organza & Watch Me

65 Insider’s Pick Wilanów Palace

32 Travel Kazimierz Dolny

69 Insider’s Pick DS Instytut

80 Why Warsaw? Chief Rabbi Michael Schudrich

77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Iza Depczyk idepczyk@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Ed Wight

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

51 Insider’s Pick Cafe Lorentz

Fully AirConditioned

Le Cedre

Lebanese cuisine

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61 · Praga since 1997 Vis a vis Bears www.lecedre.pl Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

Al. Solidarności 84 · Centrum Centrum, Vis a vis Court Tel 22 61 88 999

Reviews: Singer Festival 5 / Uprising Events 9

CULTURE EVENTS 6 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 8 / FILM 7

Insider’s Pick SINGER FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS AUGUST 25 A meeting with the children of Holocaust survivors 14:00 ul. Próżna 8 La Playa: Warsaw - Tel Aviv 15:00-22:00 Club La Playa, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5 Muranów walk 17:00 Skwer Willy Brandt Concert: KlezmaFour 21:00 ul. Czerniakowska 130/132

25 AUG - 2 SEPT

Singer Festival 2010

FESTIVAL Festival of Jewish Culture: “Singer’s Warsaw” Multiple locations

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

his annual colourful celebration of Jewish culture takes place in the very area that, prior to the war, represented the beating heart of local Jewish society. Aiming to recreate the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, cultural events include theater, concerts, films, exhibitions and expos, as well as kosher food stands, workshops that cover dance, art and craft, and numerous discussion forums and seminars related to Jewish culture. Running till 2 September, stars booked to appear include Joshua Nelson, Alberto Mizrahi, Benzion Miller, Jeff Warschauer and Yaakov Lemmer. Among the Polish celebs will be Kayah and Justyna Steczkowska. Now in its ninth year, the festival is fast approaching the status afforded to the globally recognized Kraków Jewish Festival. Note that due the heavy number of performers booked to appear, the events we list are just the tip of the iceberg. For the full lowdown, click to: festiwalsingera.pl.

Singing workshops: Benzion Miller and Danny Gildar 13:00 ul. Twarda 6 100 Years of Yiddish Music 14:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Official launch of the festival Cantor Concert 18:00 ul. Twarda 6

27 Israeli graffiti photo exhibition Club Skład Butelek, ul. 11 Listopada 22 Concert: Alex Jacobowitz 19:00 Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Concert: Justyna Steczkowska 20:30 Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16

28 Literature salon: Pollywood. How we created Hollywood 19:00 ul. Próżna 8 Theater premiere: Polacas Work in Progress 19:30 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16

29 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Concert: Slavic Gonzo 20:30 Skład Butelek ul. 11 Listopada 22/8 Concert: Matt Herskowitz 21:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16

30 Poster exhibition: David Tartakover 17:00 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 Concert: Janusz Tylman & Czesław Majewski 17:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Concert: Joshua Nelson 18:00 All Saints’ Church, Pl. Grzybowski 3/5 Concert: Maciej Cierliński & Piotr Dąbrowski 20:30 Pardon, To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16

31 Film: 8 Stories which didn’t Change the World 18:00 4 Pokoje, ul. Wileńska 19 Theater: Bella. The Color of Love 19:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Concert: Kayah 20:30 Pl. Grzybowski

SEPTEMBER 1 Theater: Just in Time to Pack a Few Things 18:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16

2 Grand Finale: Frank London, Dawid Krakauer, Joshua Nelson, Theresa Tova, Matt Herskowitz 19:00 Pl. Grzybowski

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CULTURE 1

CONCERT Madonna Warsaw National Stadium The pop queen will be performing in Poland as part of her world tour promoting MDNA – her latest album. This is set to be her only performance in Central Europe, so if you want to hear the single Give Me All Your Lovin’, which has already had over 38 million hits on YouTube, here’s your only chance. Tickets from zł. 149, available at livenation.pl

Recreation De Musique D’une Execution Facile op. 6 and Sonata e-moll, make a beeline to Krakowskie Przedmieście. This evening of beautiful music is free of charge, but space is limited.

FILM Open-air cinema Centrum Nauki Kopernik, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20 If you are interested in how we came to being, and you also like movies, then these open air screenings will be right up your street. The anthropology-themed movie screenings are scheduled for 3, 10, 17 and 24 August, and will be free of charge.

get, at least in Poland. Living up to its non-conformist image, acts that have already been confirmed to appear include Iggy and the Stooges, Swans, Thurston Moore, Battles, Metronomy and Doom. Tickets from zł. 200, available at: eventim.pl and ticketpro.pl

OPERA Summer Opera Białołęcki Ośrodek Kultury, ul. Vincentego Van Gogha 1 A chance to listen to a series of arias and songs from Polish, French and Italian composers. Works by Mozart, Szymanowski, Bizet, Di Capui, Cardilla, and others will be performed by soloists from the Polish and wider European stage. Tickets from zł. 20, available at tel. 22 614 66 56.

EXHIBITION

CONCERT Summer Music Evening Le Passioni dell’Anima ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 58/60 For an evening of music school student renderings of Jean-Marie Leclair’s Premiere

3-5

FESTIVAL Off Festival Dolina Trzech Stawów, Katowice Mainstream festivals be damned – this one’s as alternative as they

Summer Art Galeria Grafiki i Plakatu, ul. Hoża 40 Looking for work by Polish art newbies? Check out Galeria Grafiki i Plakatu this August, as aside from the good ole’ classics, you’ll be able to view the work of a new generation of bright, young talents.

7 MEDIA PATRONAGE

18-26

FESTIVAL XII International Mime Art Festival Organized by Teatr Na Woli, this festival is a review of pantomime theaters from around the world. Among many actors, the festival will host icons of the art of mime, including Paulo Nani, known as “the master of gesture” and Nola Rae, a true lady of European mime, awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth II in 2008 for services to drama and to mime. Expect plays inspired by the works of Garcia Lorka, Brunon Schulz and Franz Kafka. The festival will also present modern pantomime plays, where over 20 artists from all over the world will show different approaches to the art of mime. Tickets from zł. 45, available from ebilet.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

CONCERT Amon Amarth Progresja Club, ul. Sylwester Kaliski 15a All the way from Sweden, Amon Amarth play in Warsaw as part of their “20-years-as-a-band tour”. “An evening with - 20th anniversary” is meant to be a two-hour set of Viking and melodic death metal, and while the Insider will probably give this one a miss it is, if anything, a sign that the Polish concert scene is nearing completion. Tickets from zł. 85, available at www.ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

Shoot The Girl First Punkt & Radio Luxembourg, ul. Górczewska 67 The band visit Poland as part of their European tour promoting their newest album They Have Clocks, We Have Time. Refusing to be boxed into a single genre, this band claim it’s their originality that makes them stand from the crowd. Tickets from zł. 20, available at ticketpro.pl

11-12

FESTIVAL Coke Live Music Festival ul. Stella-Sawickiego, Kraków Jay Z, Rihanna, Timbaland and Kid Cudi all made their Polish debuts at this festival. Originally geared towards the hip-hop, r’n’b and pop crowd, the music policy has since diversified significantly, as demonstrated by this year’s line-up: The Killers, Placebo, The Roots and Snoop Dogg among many others. Tickets available from zł. 125, available at ticketpro.pl

CONCERT Korn Sowiński Park, ul. Elekcyjna 17 Fans of these nu-metal giants can expect plenty of hits from their latest album The Path of Totality. Music critics describe it as a one-of-a-kind mix of hard rock and dubstep. Tickets from zł. 125, available at ticketpro.pl

CONCERT Setting The Woods On Fire Hard Rock Cafe (Złote Tarasy) This Polish “modern post hardcore” band’s self-titled album

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

EVENTS THIS MONTH

was declared album of the year in 2009 by the WeAreFromPoland blog. For zł. 10 you can see for yourself if they live up to the hype. Tickets from www.ticketpro.pl

be performing Mozart, Haydn, Beth Graham and others. Free admission.

CONCERT Chopin in Łazienki Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park For 50 years visitors have been flocking to Łazienki to hear summer recitals of the composer’s greatest works. Taking place every Sunday at 16:00 (weather permitting), they’re a must for residents and visitors alike. Free admission.

THROUGHOUT AUGUST

CONCERT

Classical Music on Grass Królikarnia, ul. Puławska 113A The Orchestra Sinfonia Viva will

Margaret Drama. USA. Dir. Kenneth Lonergan, with Matt Damon, Jean Reno, Anna Paquin Madagascar 3 Animated/Comedy/Adventure. USA. Dir. Eric Darnell, Tom McGrath, with Ben Stiller, Chris Rock, David Schwimmer, Sacha Baron Cohen

The Bourne Legacy (Dziedzictwo Bourne’a) Action Thriller. USA. Dir. Tony Gilroy, with Jeremy Renner, Rachel Weisz, Ed Norton

FESTIVAL

(and every Sunday)

3 August

10 August

(and every Saturday) Dreszer Festival Park Dreszera (Mokotów) Free open-air jazz every Saturday at 17:00. Performers slated to appear over the course of the month include: ATOM String Quartet and the Andrzej Jagodziński Trio.

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH

17 August FLEA MARKET Shopping at Miasto Cypel Miasto Cypel, Zaruskiego 6 Aside from fresh fruit, veg, and herbs, visitors to Cypel are invited to pick through furniture, handmade goodies and used clothes, accessories and jewelry. If you’re interested in joining the traders yourself, write an email to: fleamarketcypel@gmail.com

Brave (Merida Waleczna) Animation/Adventure. USA. Dir. Mark Andrews, Brenda Chapman, with Emma Thompson, Kelly MacDonald, Billy Connolly That’s My Boy (Spadaj Tato) Comedy. USA. Dir. Sean Anders, John Morris, with Adam Sandler, Leighton Meester, Vanilla Ice, Susan Sarandon

24 August

Abraham Lincoln: Vampire Hunter 3D Fantasy/Horror. USA. Dir. Timur Bekmambetow, with Benjamin Walker, Anthony Mackie, Dominic Cooper The Expendables II (Niezniszczalni II) Action. USA. Dir. Simon West, with Sylvester Stallone, Jason Statham, Jet Li, Chuck Norris, Liam Hemsworth, Jean-Claude Van Damme, Bruce Willis To Rome With Love (Zakochani w Rzymie) Comedy. Spain/Italy/USA. Dir. Woody Allen, with Judy Davis, Greta Gerwig, Alec Baldwin, Penelope Cruz, Ellen Page

31 August Total Recall (Pamięć Absolutna) Action/Sci-Fi. Canada/USA. Dir. Len Wiseman, with Colin Farrell, Ethan Hawke, Kate Beckinsale, Jessica Biel, Bill Nighy Your Sister’s Sister (Siostra Twojej Siostry) Comedy/Drama. USA. Dir. Lynn Shelton, with Emily Blunt, Mark Duplass, Rosemarie DeWitt

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw. Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis. Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Don’t make sense of it, just enjoy. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Ongoing through August, there’ll be numerous lab (e.g. the secret of soap bubbles) and family workshops incorporating tests, experiments and hands on learning: check their web for details.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Yoko Ono, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till 12 August: Project Transfer presents the work of Volodymyr Kuznetzov. Till 19 August: Harun Farocki, a retrospective film exhibition. Till 26 August: Figures from the New World, sculpture exhibition. Till 23 September: My Very Own Cinema, a retrospective exhibition featuring the multimedia works of Józef Robakowski, one of the leading neo avant garde artists of the 60s and 70s. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

19 AUGUST – 4 NOVEMBER EXHIBITION

Sara Lipska - In the Shadow of the Master Królikarnia This exhibition presents the work of Sara Lipska, an extraordinary artist who expressed her artistic sensitivity through different fine-art forms: sculpture, painting, interior design, costume design and book illustration. Most of her life was spent in Paris, and the avantgarde influences are clear; not least those of her icon and greatest love, Xavery Dunikowski. Tickets from zł. 8, available at the door.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pennants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. Runs until 30 October. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. After, check the sculptures set around the palace gardens. Ongoing: Skontrum: a collection of

sculpture without titles or dates. The idea is for viewers to form their own narrative. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until 19 August: New National Art: this exhibition focuses on the study of national-patriotic visual culture in Poland. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Celebrating its 150th birthday, the National Museum opens for business on the Night of Museums following a thorough refit. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till 23 September: The Dignified – from the Pharaohs to Lady Gaga, is a great exhibition dedicated to the ‘iconography of power’. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuffy museums Poland is famed for, this long awaited projects brings together the neon lights

that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which dating from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing until 16 September, the 23rd International Poster Biennale. The four categories inc. social,

cultural and advertising posters, as well as ‘golden debut’. View the works not only at the Poster Museums, but also in other Warsaw cultural spots. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Until 28 August: Art Everywhere: showcasing the history of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, this exhibition aims to highlight that art really can be found everywhere – in shop displays, on matchboxes, at home etc.

WARSAW UPRISING EVENTS

Film Premiere ‘Uprising’ Uprising Museum and the Teatr Dramatyczny At midnight Directed by Radosław Rychcik, tickets for the premier of Uprising can be purchased in advance from the Uprising Museum. Mass All Saints’ Church, pl. Grzybowski In memory of all those who died in the Uprising, a service will be held at 10:00 at All Saints’Church. Service Powązki Military Cemetery, ul. Powązkowska 43/45 At 17:00 join veterans, dignitaries and others next to the Gloria Victis monument for the ceremonial lighting of graveside candles. Visit at dusk and you’ll find the whole cemetery illuminated in an eerie red glow. Warszawiacy: (Un)Forbidden Songs Pl. Piłsudskiego Head to Pl. Piłsudskiego at 20:00 to listen to a rendition of classic Uprising songs which were banned during occupation. Purchase your own song book to join the sing song. Free admission.

Michał Zadara Skwer by Aleja 3 Maja Witness the unveiling of a mosaic by the highly rated Zadara titled: “Where the Unknown Lady from Warsaw Rests”.

Uprising Mass Uprising Museum A bike ride through the streets of Warsaw that follows the roads that postmen took during the rebellion. Starts at 17:00. To register visit: www.1944.pl/rejestracja

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A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice. • A MASTERFUL MENU CREATED BY CHEF JOSEPH • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.kuchniajozka.pl www.josephwinebar.pl

INFRONT ARCHITECTURE 12 / EURO 2012 11 / NEWS 12 / PRL 16 / TOURISM 12 / TRENDS 14

EURO 2012

PHOTO COLLAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Poland's in the Euros

With the curtain drawn on Euro 2012, Poland can look back on a job well done – off the pitch, certainly. While the team limped out following a series of half-panicked performances, the nation as a whole can reflect on a tournament that surpassed expectations. Aside from the mayhem that preceded the match against Russia, the competition passed without major incident, leaving Sol Campbell, who’d earlier warned travelling fans they faced, “returning home in a coffin,” looking like a plonker. Krzyzstof Pohorecki, executive director of Euro 2012, was quick to play down the violence that flared in the capital. “You have a riot in Warsaw and the reports show six people in hospital… six people in hospital is a normal day – a regular wedding in Poland ends with six people in hospital!” But it’s not just the lack of thuggery that is being celebrated. In financial terms, the results have been comprehensive. Over 600,000 foreign fans made it to Poland, spending an estimated zł. 900 million while here. Even more encouragingly, 81% promise to return in a poll conducted by PBS. In spite of being handed the less glamorous half of the draw Poland has been left basking in a post-tournament glow, with many analysts predicting a ‘civilization jump’ related to the new facilities and infrastructure constructed for Euro 2012. The feel good factor is expected to linger some considerable time; the greatest triumph has been in changing international misconceptions of a country trapped in a grey, commie past, and tourism experts predict Poland can now expect an extra 500,000 tourists per annum as a result of the competition. “UEFA EURO 2012 is our big success,” said tournament director Adam Olkowcicz. “Many people in Poland did not believe that we could organize such a great tournament – but we did it.” facebook.com/warsawinsider

INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES De-mole-ition Man A gardener blew himself to pieces with high explosives after trying to get rid of moles in his garden. The bungling 65-year-old from Zbąszynek failed to escape the blast after packing the pests’ holes with 15 sticks of dynamite during his midnight raid. His remains were found scattered across the lawn by his wife who was woken by the explosion.

Alicja in Wonderland Construction work has started on a €400 million project to build Poland’s first international standard amusement park. Ground was broken on Adventure World Warsaw on 21 July, with a grand launch ambitiously slated for spring 2014. Located in Grodzisk Mazowiecki, thirty minutes from the capital, the 240 hectare plot will house Poland’s largest aqua park, as well as two onsite hotels catering for 800 guests. Two million visitors are expected annually, with attractions in the year round theme park including themed areas such as ‘Creature Lagoon’, ‘Adventure Harbor’, ‘Castle Island’, ‘Land of Legends’ and ‘Old Poland’ – which, if the promotional bumph is to be believed, will combine “Polish legends and fairytales together with old, traditional architecture as seen in Warsaw’s Old Town.”

68,000

hamburgers sold in the Warsaw FanZone during Euro 2012 ARCHITECTURE

Faulty Tower Daniel Liebeskind is facing increasing condemnation as work on his Złota 44 project reaches its climax. The development had been promoted as a visionary landmark that would demonstrate Warsaw’s 21st century credentials to the rest of the world. Instead, the Polish-born architect’s work has provoked a storm of criticism. Original plans had shown a dazzling sail-shaped building, instead locals have been startled to find the 192 meter tower adopt a skin not too different from the dazzle camouflage used by WWII battleships. The skyscraper has been dogged by problems since the outset, with work halted for nearly two years during the economic crisis. Warsaw’s most expensive apartment (zł. 20 mill), set on the top three floors, remains unsold.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Cham-pain A British journalist was arrested after refusing to pay for drinks in a Kraków strip club during the Euro 2012 football championships. Pervy reporter Peter Mullins, 29, from Glastonbury was fined zł. 4,700 after running up a zł. 4,000 champagne bill at the city’s Klub 66. The hacked-off hack told a startled courtroom he had, “lost it over the champagne and the Polish women.”

Holy Cross An enraged priest decked one of his parishioners and called another a whore after they told him they preferred to stay unmarried. Father Ryszard S. hurled abuse at locals Francisek B. and his common law wife Joanna before punching the 58-year-old dad in the face and knocking out one of his teeth as they drank tea at the couple’s home in Kaczory. Police are investigating.

R-I-PEE Potty cemetery bosses have angered mourners by closing the only loos at a graveyard in Łódź, and telling visitors to pee behind the gravestones. “It is disgusting and unhygienic. There was one poor woman crying her eyes out while she squatted behind the headstones,” said visitor Hanna Miechowicz. Council officials claim the closure is temporary. “But for the time being, visitors will have to make use of the natural areas available,” said a Town Hall spokesman.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

TOURISM

INFRONT

TRENDS

BY AGNIESZKA LENART

Come Dine With Me

This latest neo-commie trend has taken over Warsaw’s watering holes, even if it’s unexpected in a country not too keen on sharing: welcome, to the communal table.

Socjal and SAM, which sport a slightly more complex menu, but the same laid-back scenester vibe. And people are gradually succumbing to the allure of the communal table - whether it’s for a family-style dinner for friends or just a bunch of strangers eavesdropping on each others’ conversations. In any case, as a friend recently visiting from New York put it, “it certainly makes flirting with girls at the other side of the table interesting, particularly when the conversation starts getting dull at your end of the table.” Indeed, communal tables may well prove a valuable tool when it comes to the delicate art of flirting in Warsaw.

COMMUNAL TABLE RESTAURANTS Charlotte al. Wyzwolenia 18 SAM ul. Lipowa 7 Socjal ul.Foksal 18

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

t all started with Charlotte, with its Au Bon Painstyle set-up, complete with the big wooden block of wood down the middle. In an instant this place was the coolest kid within miles, with people facing off for a table and servers running around with their tongues hanging out trying to keep up with all the orders. So as is to be expected, most people immediately go for the smaller tables, where there is an illusion of privacy. It’s only when the little tables fill up that people start to warily eye the big wooden table inside. Slowly it fills up, first a corner, then one a couple in the middle, everyone careful to keep a seat or two in between one party and the next. And all of a sudden it’s completely full and you’ve got all these strangers all sitting together and once in a while conversations will merge and sometimes a Facebook friend made. Now the trend has been picked up by new spots like

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

INFRONT

August Accords

This year marks the 32nd anniversary of the birth of Solidarity, the political movement which would ultimately lead to the collapse of the Iron Curtain. Born in Gdańsk, its roots can be traced to the impromptu strike that swept the city’s Lenin Shipyards following the sacking of a female crane operator on 14 August, 1980. Galvanized by a fence-top speech by an unemployed electrician named Lech Wałęsa, it soon became clear this strike was more serious than any that had preceded it. Copycat action was repeated in factories across Poland; with the situation escalating, and the nation’s industry paralyzed, Polish authorities were forced into talks with the protestors. Tense days followed, with fears simmering that the action would provoke the Soviet Union into launching an invasion. The world held its breath and waited. Finally, on 31 August, the government accepted 21 demands laid down by the workers and signed an agreement known as the August Accords. A month later, the strike leaders formed a coalition operating under the banner of Solidarity – Solidarność in Polish. While the August Accords signaled a period of thaw during which an illusion of cultural and social freedom was cultivated, Solidarity’s continuing campaign for further reform was clearly making the Polish leadership uncomfortable. Under increasing pressure from Moscow, General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law on 13 December, 1981. Solidarity figureheads were imprisoned, and tanks stood guard in the streets. The future looked bleaker than ever, leaving Timothy Garton Ash (see right) to grimly conclude that nuclear war was a global inevitability.

For the seminal account of the Solidarity struggle, as well as a compelling glance at life in 80s Poland, no other book comes close to Timothy Garton Ash’s bestselling The Polish Revolution: Solidarity. As a young reporter Ash found himself sent to crisis-torn Poland, and spent 16 months working closely with the activists. Magnificently written, his work has become the definitive study of the period, as well as a wellexecuted reminder of just how close the Cold War came to developing into World War.

In a city whose plaques and memorials obsess about every detail of the Uprising, it can occasionally feel that other historical events have been overlooked. Not so; sometimes it just takes a careful eye. Take the tawdry Dekada club (ul. Grójecka 19/25): to the side, a place where countless clubbers must have enjoyed a refreshing toilet break, stands a tablet commemorating the building’s function as the former secret home of Radio Solidarność. Making its first covert broadcast on 12 April, 1982, the underground station continued to push the cause up until the collapse of communism in 1989. A large mural has been added in conjunction with the plaque, leaving no doubt what the consequences were for those involved in the station.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP LEFT: AGENCJA FORUM, KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

PRL PAGE (’52-’89)

RISING MEMORIES

Much ink has been spilled where the Warsaw Uprising is concerned, and to this day debate rages as to the rationale behind it. This issue, the Insider listens to two people who lived – and fought – through it. BY IZA DEPCZYK

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE WARSAW UPRISING

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THE WARSAW UPRISING

aving suffered five years of brutal Nazi occupation, and with liberation in sight, Poland’s clandestine military movement, the AK Home Army, launched its bid to free occupied Warsaw and install an independent government ahead of the Soviet arrival. Having received the green light from the Polish leadership in London, the ill-equipped AK sprang into battle on 1 August, 1944. What followed was a savage 63 day struggle, one defined as much by barbarity as it was by bravery. With Allied aid only token in nature, the Uprising was eventually crushed. The human cost was enormous, with over 250,000 lives lost. On Hitler’s orders, what remained of the city was systematically destroyed. By the time Soviet forces entered Warsaw, total destruction stood at 84%, with 20 million cubic meters of rubble burying what had once been one of Europe’s great cities. With the number of survivors shrinking each year, the Insider is privileged to have the opportunity to catch up with two. Wiesław Depczyk was 18 at the time of the Warsaw Uprising. Codenamed Drohojemski III, he fought for the AK Home Army alongside two of his brothers – one of whom lost his life. His wife, Irena Dmochowska-Depczyk, was ten at the time, and lived in the town of Piastowo just outside of Warsaw. This is the story of their Uprising: Tell us about the first day of the Uprising. Irena Dmochowska-Depczyk: The day of the Uprising was very tense. I was in a town near Warsaw at the time, and although it was planned in secret, we all knew what was going to happen. Wiesław Depczyk: The youngsters in Warsaw were very highly-strung because they knew what was coming, and that many of them were to take part in it. Even if the Polish government in London hadn’t given the signal to launch an Uprising, the youth would have fought anyway. They were tired of Nazi oppression, they wanted to rebel. You could sense that longing for revenge and freedom. A few days before it all started, there was what we call the Ostre Pogotowie. It was the day when we thought the Uprising would take place. So we all had to show up to our posts and wait for the sign from London. My brothers and I met our fellow AK soldiers from the district on Złota. There, in a building where our meet-up was, we picked up our arms which we had hidden in chimneys, or under the floorboards. After a few hours of waiting, the Ostre Pogotowie was moved to 1 August. Go on… WD: That was difficult, as you can imagine, because we weren’t proper soldiers. We weren’t even properly armed, our weapons were whatever we had received from the Allies, found or even bought from the Germans. Anyway, on 1 August I was at home, on Żelazna 65, when the messenger boy came over. I’m still friends with him to this day, he was thirteen at the time. The message boys had to be young, because the Germans didn’t normally stop kids. So he came over around noon and said that we had to go over to our AK base on Złota straight away. We went outside, and all I could sense was excitement. For the first time in ages the streets were crowded. This

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

wasn’t normal in those days, because usually if there was a group of three or so people the Nazis would stop them, sometimes even arrest them. So to see hundreds of young men and women on the streets, it was quite something. You know, the Germans were confused, they didn’t know what was going on. I mean, they probably had their suspicions, but they didn’t know the extent of our plans. Well, I got to the base on Złota and my brothers were there already, along with the other AK from our district. As we were preparing our weapons the commander came in and told us that we are about to go: the first shots had been fired. Were you scared? WD: Scared? I wasn’t even thinking about whether I was scared or not. All I knew is we had been waiting for this day. And now it had come, and we had to fight. I remember hoping that that the Gestapo wouldn’t catch us before we got that chance. We had to walk to Centralny, because the plan was to first take over the station. So we walked, through tunnels burrowed between basements. We came out on Chmielna and walked towards Marszałkowska and then the railway station. And at one point I remember my friend asked me whether I was scared. “There’s no time,” I replied. I think, back then, I couldn’t tell the difference between the absolute excitement that we felt that Warsaw was on the verge of freedom, and the fear of what might happen to us. IDD: All I knew was that boys and girls in Warsaw were fighting for our freedom. We were proud of them. People were hanging Polish flags in their windows. I think everyone thought that this was going to be a success. Of course, the end was different. I remember those who didn’t die in the Uprising, but who were arrested, were marched through our village. My mother and I were looking on as they were cuffed, walking behind a German marked van. I remember my mother grabbing one of the men, and telling him to pretend he was with us. Fortunately, nobody noticed. How did you join the AK? My brother had contacts within the AK, so he pulled me into it two years before the Uprising. He was part of it for longer than I was. I remember I had to make vows to stay loyal to it. They had to be sure that you weren’t a Nazi infiltrator. This distrust was very common under occupation: you had your friends, but you never really knew what his political views were, so you only trusted a few people. That’s why none of us, in our AK battalions, knew each other’s real names – we only went by aliases so we wouldn’t reveal proper names under torture. Which battalion were you in? WD: Our district was Śródmieście and our battalion was called AK Gurt. IDD: Gurt was the alias of their commander. WD: That’s right. Our base was on the corner of Złota and Jana Pawła II. These days an obelisk marks the spot. How do you live in a city with such memories? Do you ever find yourself walking the streets and thinking, ‘this is where that happened’?

Pictured: Tadeusz Depczyk, twenty-two at the time of the Uprising, died from shrapnel wounds three days after this picture was taken.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTEST OF MUZEUM POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO

IDD: Very rarely. Warsaw looked very different then. The buildings look nothing like they do now. Our family house on Żelazna actually survived, and was still here a few years back, but we didn’t dare go back after the Uprising. We had to flee because the Russian UB and NKVD were already looking for those who had taken part. Also, my father had been a police officer in the interwar period, and the Soviets, as you know, were getting rid of all the police officers, generals and anyone who might oppose them. So everything stayed in the house, all of our belongings. I moved out of Warsaw, to Radość, along with my mother, father, and the brother who survived the Uprising. What happened next? WD: My mum opened a little restaurant in our house; we made our own bimber (moonshine) and sold it to the locals and that’s how we got by. I guess someone must have told the militia that we had fought in the Uprising, because one day we received a document from the UB demanding we come up with a list of names, aliases, addresses, anything, about all the commanders in the Uprising, otherwise the whole family would be arrested. We weren’t going to betray our friends so my brother and I fled again, this time to Cieplice, with the rest of the family joining a few days later.

But after several years we returned to Warsaw. That’s where we were from, that’s where our friends were. I got a job as a cartographer at PKPG, and they’d sometimes keep us locked up in an office for two days painting these Communist propaganda posters. You can imagine how I hated that job sometimes. Finally, after two years, they fired me because I wouldn’t join the Party. Later I got another job, drawing plans and maps, which is where I met my wife. In hindsight, was Warsaw right to rebel? IDD: Looking back over time, knowing what happened afterwards, knowing how many people died, and how Warsaw got destroyed, I think most of us would say that the Uprising shouldn’t have taken place. Back then though, it was inevitable. People were tired of oppression. WD: But even though so many died, nobody wanted to hear about giving up, putting up the white flag. But how do I see this now? So many have asked this question already. Those of us who took part in the Uprising have always said that the Uprising was absolutely necessary, but had we known that it was going to last so long, that Warsaw wouldn’t be liberated, or that we’d get so little support from the UK and US… Had we known all that, then I would say no, let’s get out of Warsaw, let’s not fight. facebook.com/warsawinsider

URBAN EXPLORATION

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

A LAND DOWN UNDER Not unlike discovering a lost world, the underground passages of Filtry Station are one of Warsaw's best hidden secrets... BY ALEX WEBBER

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URBAN EXPLORATION

“ Vaulted ceilings cast a reflection on the water, creating a kaleidoscope effect that’s almost hallucinogenic in look ” Clockwise from top left: Art Deco mermaid on the 1933 rapid filter facilty; Filtry Station Museum; eerily empty inside the rapid water flter station; preserved details in the rapid water filter; up and inside the redbrick boiler tower; the rapid water filter.

ouring a waterworks isn’t usually my idea of fun. The word alone conjures visions of noise and nasty smells: if you want that, surely you can just get on a tram at Hala Mirowska. Yet Warsaw, if nothing else, is a city of surprises, and as surprises come they don’t come much bigger than Filtry Station: covering a city center plot of 30 hectares (oh, how must the property developers covet it), you’ve probably been past it a million times – from work, to the airport, etc. etc. But while it looks mysterious from the outside, it’s actually anything but. You see, each Saturday through August, this enigmatic facility opens its doors to the public for guided tours that need to be booked way in advance (see website). As we waited to have our details copied and our entry pass issued, I fully expected to find a hunched man in overalls on the other side, ready to give us a bore tour. Instead, I got surprise No. 1: Sylwia. A product of the marketing department, Sylwia is the kind of glamorous Varsovian that you see turning heads in Platinium. She would also be our guide for the morning – well, that was just fine with me. First stop on any snoop around the facility is the in-house museum, a voluminous hall sat by the entrance. It’s here you’ll learn about just how Warsaw gets its water. The story isn’t complicated. Back in the 19th century the Russian mayor of Tsarist controlled Warsaw, Sokrates Starynkiewicz, decided it was time to push the city out of the Neolithic age and gift it clean running water. To meet this end he hired an Englishman, William Heerlein Lindley, who oversaw a project that eventually made its debut in 1886. The result was the Filtry waterworks, a huge network of filters that supply Warsaw’s water to this day. The museum itself doesn’t take much time, but does have points of interest: for instance, a scale model of the plant, as well as two wooden pipes that carried water to the Royal Castle some 280 years before the rest of Warsaw was hooked up. The real sightseeing though, that lies elsewhere. The defining feature of Filtry – from the outside, anyhow – is the redbrick tower: over 40 meters in height, this elegant 19th century spire once dominated the Warsaw skyline. Used until the ’30s to discharge fumes from the boilers, seeing it from the inside is a head spinning experience. The spiral stairs that skirt inside its walls disappear into the blackness above, and while they’re currently blocked off to the public, they’re impressive in their scope. “One guy who visited us recently,” recounts Sylwia, “told us how during the Uprising a German sniper took potshots

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

at him from the top.” Walking across Filtry’s long, stretching paths (what a go-kart track it’d make!), we reach the rapid filter facility. Unveiled in 1933 it was, at the time, the most advanced of its kind in Europe. From an architectural view, it’s a jewel, with preserved Art Deco reliefs featuring, among others, a miffed-looking mermaid. But it’s even more extraordinary inside. If it weren’t for the water tanks flanking each side of the corridor, you’d mistake it for New York’s Grand Central Station. While they’re no longer operable, original details such as valves and dials have been lovingly preserved. It’s in here you’re free to guzzle back as much water as you wish – damn, why couldn’t this be a brewery. To my astonishment, it’s actually refreshing, and not just because it’s sweltering outside. “Warsaw water isn’t bad,” says Sylwia, noting my bewildered look. “The thing that occasionally makes it taste bad at times are the battered rusty pipes that supply some of the buildings.” She’s right, this stuff is like mountain water compared to the gunk that comes out of my taps. For me though, the highlight is about to come. Found under the long grassy mounds that characterize the area are the slow water filters. Covering a total span of 82,000 sq/m, these underground chambers are simply magnificent. “Sometimes when I’m in here,” whispers Sylwia in reverence, “it reminds me of stepping into a Gothic cathedral.” The vaulted ceilings cast a reflection on the water, creating a kaleidoscope effect that’s almost hallucinogenic in its look; it’s not hard to feel you’ve been afforded a peek into a secret world. The sheer craftsmanship involved in the construction is immediately evident. At the time, Lindley faced flak for specifically using high quality bricks from just two hand-picked factories. That the brickwork still looks pristine is a testament to his judgment. Careful not to attract the attention of a spider the size of my head, we exit the thick, heavy air of these catacombs, back into the birdsong of outside. Trees wave gently in the wind, bringing to mind visions of a green oasis in the center of the city. The tour concludes at the carbon filter station, a NASA style control lab with lots of gauges and red buttons. On the rooftop garden we pause for thought as we contemplate the skyscraper skyline that juts into the clouds. Serene and surreal, it’s an eye-opening tour that’s a must-do for all. Filtry ul. Koszykowa 81, www.mpwik.com.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

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HIDDEN CITY

THE FINNISH-ED HOUSES?

arsaw, 1945: having dusted themselves down after six years of Nazi occupation, what remained of the local populace emerged from their hiding holes to find the Germans had done a proficient job of leveling the city. Fortunately, in a rare show of benevolence, Stalin took time to gift Poland some 400 pre-fabricated huts that had earlier been bullied from Finland as part of post-war reparations. Some of these cabins went north, others down south. Two hundred, however, ended up in Warsaw. And so arose Osiedle Fińskich, a collection of wooden chalets designated to serve as the personal quarters for architects recruited to rebuild the capital. Originally seen as a temporary solution, the homes remain to this day. Their number has dwindled significantly (most recently, twenty were demolished to make way for the German Embassy), and today only twenty-eight remain. In itself, the story isn’t remarkable. What makes it so is the location of Os. Fińśkich – bang in the spotlight of central

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Warsaw. And while the rest of the center chokes with concrete to a symphony of sirens, the Finnish Houses offer an extraordinary distraction from the heavy urban gloom. Tucked behind Ujazdowskie Park, that this fairytale community exists is one of Warsaw’s biggest surprises. Characterized by its black pitch roofs and blossoming yards, it’s a secret garden that enthralls all who visit. Not that living here is the fairytale it looks: “There’s electricity, cold water and sewerage,” says local Elżbieta Funkiewicz, “and that’s about it.” For most residents, heating comes from wood and hot water from the boiler. Offsetting the hardships is the keen sense of community. Many living here have artistic links, and stories of raucous all-nighters in the 70s and 80s are fondly retold. Of all the dates though, it’s December 8th, 1981 that lives longest in the memory. On the first anniversary of John Lennon’s death, Beatles fans marched through this part of Warsaw singing Give Peace a Chance, before placing an ad-libbed sign declaring this hitherto nameless street as ul. Lennona.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

For decades the Finnish Houses have represented one of Warsaw's most captivating neighborhoods. Their future though, is far from bright. BY IZA DEPCZYK & ALEX WEBBER

Stadion Narodowy

“Oh yes,” laughs Funkiewicz, “they came here playing their guitars and smoking pot – we didn’t even know what marijuana was at the time, it was a huge shock!” Ten years later, the city officially sanctioned the use of the address ul. Lennona. But relations between city hall and the local residents are strained – more now than they’ve ever been before. Realizing the real estate occupied by Os. Fińskich could be traded for big bucks, the future of this magical neighborhood now hangs in the balance. The Insider’s Iza Depczyk takes up the story, sitting down to talk to resident Krzysztof Baumiller. What’s your story with this area? Following the war Warsaw was a pile of rubble, so architects were the most sought after people. The Finnish houses were a ‘gift from the Soviet Union’ for all those architects involved in the rebuilding program – so, the people who lived here worked for the Biuro Odbudowy Stolicy (Office for Rebuilding the Capital). The first guy who lived in this house was Stanisław Jankowski. He was really well known out here. During the war he was sent out from England by the Polish Government-in-Exile and took part in the Uprising under the codename Agaton. He was actually an architect by profession though, and after the war he was hired by the city. My dad was good friends with him, so after Stanisław moved out my father took his place in 1964.

AND HOW OFTEN DO YOU SEE LITTLE WOODEN HOUSES IN THE MIDDLE OF A EUROPEAN CAPITAL?

”

Finnish Houses

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HIDDEN CITY

My siblings and I grew up in this house, and you’ll find loads of people living here who were actually born inside them. You know, in the last 30 years no-one from city hall was interested in this development – that’s why they’re in such good shape; because it was left to those living in them to take care of them. All of a sudden city hall has woken up and decided it wants to get rid of them. Why?! One presumes it’s to make money. And the problem is, since the houses were ‘given’ to us they still belong to the city. Sure, they’ve offered us alternative accommodation, but most of us don’t care for that. This is where we were born, grew up and raised our kids. We’ve poured our heart, soul and money into these homes. What has the city told you? They say this place is supposed to be a park, according to original plans. But that doesn’t mean they’ll actually build a park – for all I know the city might put a parking lot here. Yet even if it was turned into a park, I think this place has more value, more historic value. Surely not all residents are determined to stay? There’s some people who will accept what the city says because they’re old – they’re tired of dealing with these problems. But actually ask any one of them and they’ll tell

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

you they’re only moving because they feel harassed by the city. For example, lately we keep getting invoices for ‘non-contractual use of public space,’ and receiving a monthly bill for zł. 1,800. But that’s a personal problem. The bigger problem affects everyone: these houses are historic. They’re unique. How often do you see little wooden houses in the middle of a European capital? I read some time ago in the New York Times that when SoHo, Greenwich Village and China Town started attracting the rich it pushed the rents through the roof. But the city moved in to help out; they realized once the ‘artists’ started moving out these districts would lose their character. Here though, it’s the complete opposite. So what are you doing? We’ve started putting info on Facebook (search for Osiedle Jazdów), and we also organize tours – you know the Night of the Museums? Well we organized Night of the Finnish Houses. People could walk around and look through our windows, etc. The message we wanted – and want – to get across are these houses aren’t barracks. They’re not a place where drunks and vagrants shelter. These are real homes in which generations have grown up. But, we also want people to realize that if this place goes, we don’t just lose our homes, Warsaw will lose an important historic neighborhood.

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TRAVEL KAZIMIERZ DOLNY

DOWN IN THE DOLNY

rriving in Kazimierz had been something of a relief. In the space of two and half hours the journey had thrown everything Poland had at us: an impressive emporium retailing garden gnomes (and stone lions, plastic monkeys and giant dinosaurs). Then there had been a UFO. And a parachutist landing just meters from the roadside (from the UFO, perhaps). Not forgetting a puzzling museum dedicated to ‘drunkenness and cycling’. “We’ve got to have a look,” I urged the girlfriend. “You love cycling and I love, umm, cycling.” We didn’t stop. We did, just in time, for the cow on the road. So yes, arriving was a relief. A short-lived one, however. The official population of Kazimierz stands under 4,000, yet in the height of summer that number swells to Beijing proportions. Tourist meccas like Kraków absorb visitors

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

easily, little Kazimerz doesn’t: here there’s no place to run, no place to hide – you’re in it with the tourists and no option but to enjoy. But enjoy it you will. Hemmed in by the Wisła on one side and a steep gully on the other, there’s good reason why it’s regarded as one of Poland’s defining jewels. The pristine old town escaped the war intact, and today its cobbled alleys are a major attraction. But before Kazimierz Dolny assumed its role as a magnet for visitors, it was, unbelievably, a major town. Prince Kazimierz gifted the place to a Norbertine monastery in 1181, and the grateful nuns named the settlement in his honor. Yet it was during the reign of Kazimierz the Great that life moved up a gear. It is said of Kazimierz the Great that, “he found a Poland made of wood, but left it made

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAKS SKRZECZKOWSKI

A quaint riverside town, Kazmierz Dolny has charm in abundance – not to mention one or two tourists. The Insider sets off to see what the fuss is about. BY ALEX WEBBER

of bricks.” The nation was revived under his rule, and the development of towns like Kazimierz was his legacy. In the following centuries its riverside location marked it as a prosperous merchant town, so much so it became known to some as ‘little Gdańsk’. Its importance eroded slowly after the Swedish wars, though the 20th century brought with it a new lease of life. Painters flocked here, and the inter-war era signaled ‘the Age of Art,’ a golden time when Kazimierz became an impromptu art colony. That avant garde spark survives to this day in the shape of dozens of galleries that have mushroomed round town. Now, the focal point is the Rynek, and nowhere bears the brunt of the tourist battalions more. At times it’s hard to see beyond the jostling visitors, gypsy panhandlers and stalls selling junk, but once the coaches leave for Warsaw its grace becomes apparent. Cute, folksy looking dwellings rub alongside grand burgher houses, the most sumptuous of which is Kamienice Przybyłów. Completed in 1615 its façade is adorned with ornate renaissance reliefs. A deeper knowledge of the town can be discovered with a trip to the local museum on Senatorska 11/13. Paintings of Kazimierz through the ages chart the settlement’s rise, and the interiors also play home to a cool scale model and various manuscripts and costumes. Of course, no tourist trap is complete without a Torture Museum, and you’ll find just that a few steps away. Lacking English explanations and original devices, the exhibition nonetheless does just enough to make you wince: check out the pointy wooden pyramid thing, and then ask a Pole to translate just what it did to naughty women. Ouch. But the greatest glories in this town can be found way above sea level. Pass the flamboyantly decorated Parish Church to puff your way up to the castle ruins. Destroyed in the 1650s, the shell of the castle is currently fenced off from the marauding public. Instead, continue up to the medieval watchtower. Regarded the oldest building in town, the views from here make the hike worthwhile. If you’re still alive, and I nearly wasn’t, consider heading to the second observation point – Three Crosses Hill. Perched 90 meters over the Rynek, the site is inexorably linked with mysticism and is thought to have served as an ancient burial ground. The crosses (replaced every few years), have been in position ever since the town made a miraculous recovery from an 18th century plague. The descent is less punishing, and can be utilized to learn more about the former Jewish population. The bell tower next to the Parish Church contains a wealth of Judaica as part of its goldsmith exhibit, while back at the square a side street leads directly to the former synagogue (Lubelska 4). A small shop in its foyer sells a variety of merchandise, including Israeli army caps, Kosher vodka and Superman style t-shirts emblazoned with the Star of David. Devastated in the war, it now plays host to interchanging exhibits. Right now, that means a black and white look at pre-Holocaust Kazimierz. The Jewish population peaked here 100 years ago, when Jews constituted nearly 90% of the population. Little remains now of their presence, though a trip to the cemetery just out of town is a poignant reminder. Set on a steep roadside incline, a ‘wailing wall’ with a split in the middle has been built using tombstones wrecked by the Nazis. In the woodland behind, a sprinkling of graves poke out from the undergrowth.

DETAILS

Eating There

Most restaurants operate in Kazimierz with one sole purpose: to double your weight. The finer points of gastronomy don’t figure highly here, and for the most part the restaurant menus are a colorless carousel of dumplings and meat. There are exceptions, and none more so than Kuchnia i Wino (Krakowska 11): found in the Hotel Vincent, the chefs here were trained by Wojciech Amaro (of Atelier Amaro fame) and the results are thrilling. Excellence awaits, with locally sourced produce given a contemporary spin – but leave some snacks for Josephina, the bushy haired cat who flirts between tables. A cheaper alternative is found in U Fryzjera (Witkiewicza 2), an atmospheric venue with some Jewish inspired dishes; the klezmer band that entertains adds to the spirit. Equally pleasing on the eye, if not always on the tummy, Zielona Tawerna (Nadwiślańska 4) is set inside a Hansel & Gretel cottage filled with cabinets and cupboards. The principal attraction though is the garden: there’s no patio here, just tables and chairs propped on a lawn that’s losing a battle with the plant life. Only the sound of tour coaches chugging past dampens the effect. Of the cafes, Faktoria (Krakowska 6) can’t be bettered, not least on account of its sedate little terrace. The local beer, Kazimierskie, is excellent. But good luck finding it in more than but a small clutch of places. Good luck, as well, finding a nightlife. People don’t come here to party, and neither should you. Café Plus (Lubelska 4A) looks vaguely urbane, and is reputed to be the latest haunt in town. For the most part though, you can’t go wrong saddling up for drinks in U Fryzjera.

Staying There

Accommodation is not in short supply in Kazimierz, and you’ll find dozens of family-run pensjonats hawking for trade. For something more upmarket, there’s three choices to go for. Król Kazimierz (Puławska 86, www.krolkazimierz.pl), is the big ’un, with a parking lot that reflects the status of its guests: find loads of blacked out tank-like vehicles with Warsaw plates outside. Then there’s the new kid on the block, Pensjonat Kazimierski (Tyszkiewicza 38, www.pensjonatkazimierski.eu), a great place whose one only crime is views of a car park. Both offer a high four star standard. We found ourselves lodged in the Vincent (Krakowska 11, www.pensjonatvincent.pl), a boutique gem that mixes contemporary, rustic and elegant and pulls it off well.

Info box GETTING TO KAZIMIERZ DOLNY IS DEAD SIMPLE. DRIVE FOR 2HRS 30MINS DOWN THE E372. DISTANCE: 146 KM. • Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • For reservations call: +48 22 572 6565 • Friendly English speaking staff Locations: Warsaw Chopin Airport & Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 facebook.com/warsawinsider

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WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

The True Flavors of Tuscany Paolo De Marchi, a Tuscan legend and the proprietor of Isole e Olena, impressed me a lot with his passion, personality as well as his wines. by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

he Chianti region has for many centuries attracted artists and writers who fall under the spell of the subtle beauty of its rolling hillsides covered with woods, vineyards and olive groves. The Isole e Olena estate is located on the western slope of the Chianti Classico hills exactly half way between Florence and Siena. It stands at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level. The soil is a mixture of limestone, clay slates and sandstone, which allows sufficient drainage in times of heavy rain, and the retention of moisture during drought. In 1976 Paolo De Marchi, Piedmontese by birth, took over the family’s Isole e Olena property in Tuscany. Paolo wanted his wines to reflect Tuscany, and not some international flavor profile that could come from almost anywhere. Thus, the key was finding the best Sangiovese grapes and working carefully in the vineyard. Since taking over his family’s estate Paolo has transformed Isole e Olena into a powerhouse. The flagships of Isole e Olena winery are: Cepparello, top Supertuscan – one of the Italy’s 50 greatest ever wines (Decanter, April 2008), and Vin Santo del Chianti Classico – the best sweet wine from Italy. Paolo De Marchi and his son Luca also run the Proprietà Sperino winery in Northern Piedmont, where they produce Lessona: one of the top Piedmont wines. “Paolo De Marchi does so many things well. His Sangiovese based wines are terrific. But it doesn’t stop there. The wines made from international varieties are equally compelling. As if that weren’t enough, the flagship Cepparello is one of the wines of the 2009 vintage. Add to that De Marchi’s intense passion for his hillside vineyards, and you have one of the most intriguing personalities in Italian Wine” (Antonio Galloni, Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate, June 2012).

The importer of these wines is Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw tel. 22 635 55 10, www.enotekapolska.pl Enoteka is one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked at 8th position amid 650 venues in Warsaw by TripAdvisor

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Chianti Classico DOCG 2009 (gorgeous Chianti Classico priced zł 74.25)

Cepparello IGT 2008 (100% Sangiovese, top Supertuscan with extraordinary elegance at only zł 180)

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC 2003 (The Best Sweet Wine at Magazyn Wino’s Grand Prix 2011, price zł 137.25 – cheaper than in Italy)

Reviews: Soul Kitchen 35 / Balsam 40 / Plus:

* 15 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 35 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 35 / ASIAN 36 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 38 / BRITISH 38 / FRENCH 38 / FOOD SHOPS 50 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 39 / HOME DELIVERY 38 / INDIAN 40 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 41 / ITALIAN 44 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 46 / JEWISH 46 / LATIN 46 / POLISH 48 / SEAFOOD 50

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2011 Winner............. Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, OPPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

n gastronomic terms, it’s boom time for Warsaw. Never have we been blessed with better eating; in the space of a decade the capital has gone from being a city where good food was the exception, not the rule, to the precise polar opposite. The pendulum has swung. Warsaw has arrived. This year has seen particularly pronounced growth in the restaurant sector. Even so, Soul Kitchen appears to have made more ripples than most. Opened earlier this summer, it’s trended heavily on the local food blogs, winning generous applause and glowing reports. So it was surprising, therefore, to open the door to find an empty restaurant: “more like not a soul kitchen,” quipped my dining companion. It must be said, they’ve got the face details nailed. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: bare brick and vanilla colors. But with the interiors offering the atmosphere of an undertaker’s, we opted for Option 3: the garden. Found in a small courtyard, it’s an attractive space, but it does have its faults: penned in by residences, your dining soundtrack is whatever the neighbors are playing – in our instance, bongo drums. The menu is concise, but in this case though, it was a struggle to note anything that jumped out. I opted for gazpacho and my partner for beetroot with rainette cheese. The beetroot dish was as simple as it sounded. The gazpacho, meanwhile, was ceremoniously poured from a jug by our monoglot waiter – why, I thought, couldn’t they have just done that in the kitchen. Thin, and lacking the usual punchy flavors, I wasn’t too fussed that the serving was scant. Maybe the mains would redress the balance. They didn’t. For me, it was veal escalopes: magnificent presentation, but minimal taste. My opposite number settled for ham steak, much of which remained on the plate along with strange root vegetables that refused to be identified. That the culinary highlight of my day came later at Legends speaks for itself. (AW)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 512 157 567. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00. From the outside Barn Burger looks like just the low-rent eatery you’d do well to avoid. Whatever you do, don’t. Pandering to Warsaw’s newly discovered appetite for burgers, the menu includes the scary looking ‘heart burger’ and something called a ‘muppet burger’ – filled with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. Hereford rib eye steaks and chunky chips served in a metal

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RESTAURANTS pot lend weight to growing claims this is Warsaw’s top burger joint. $ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www. dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0024:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse, Prince's guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$

T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory. pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00.Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids

and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine,

Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$

Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The summer’s creeping back, and with it one of the best gardens in the biz – if that’s full though, enjoy numerous dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Restauracja Bałkany ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 600 031 847. Open 10:00-22:00. Chef Borys used to do the cooking at the intricate Tawerna Tabak, and while this place looks like a step down the cooking hasn’t suffered: order the kofta. Décor is stark, dark and simple, but the welcome – like the cooking – is enthusiastic. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Pari Pari (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 22 628 2402. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-last guest. French they insist, we say non. Come evening, you’ll be hard pressed to note the poster art by Lautrec through all the winking neon and thundering televisions. The menu is similarly curious – the menu bursts with references to Napoleon, Musketeers and Pigalle, though contains practically nothing you’d find in France. If you look through this inconsistency, then the Polish food isn’t bad at all. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www.fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

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RESTAURANTS Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that. Balsam ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 898 2843, www.balsam.net.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat-Sun, 12:00-last client.

clectic? Bohemian? Or maybe a grunge version of 60s retro like Mad Men meets Hulk Hogan with a slice of lime and coconut milk. How about just plain interesting? The atmosphere at the Balsam Restaurant is hard to pin down. Located inside Fort Mokotów, the story begins with a very unusual setting. The fort was constructed in the late 19th century by the Russians as part of their build-up of the defenses of greater Warsaw. After falling to the Germans and then back to the Poles, it came into the entrepreneurial possession of Magda Uścińska, who dabbled with a gallery in this reclusive spot, but ultimately settled on its current form in 2004. For starters, there is the adventure of getting there. Travel off Racławicka, heading south down a suspicious looking, narrow and broken road past abandoned vehicles and too many dumpsters to the façade of the fortress which, frankly, looks its age. This is the kind of neighborhood where everyone seems to be watching you as you enter. But looks can be deceiving, because if Balsam is anything, it is welcoming. Even the kittens walking on the glass roof above our heads seemed charming and inviting. The Luncheonettes appreciated the décor, which is most definitely vintage and compelling. Old wooden tables and chairs, big flowered tablecloths, oversized couches fill the mismatched multiple rooms and two bars. Manager Lena Bersz (of the Warsaw ceramicists’ family) explains that the restaurant is a reflection of its particular neighborhood, a small jungle of advertising, video and photography studios tucked back off the main street. The food is delicious and, just like the setting, has a little bit of everything: Polish żurek (sour rye, tasty and not too greasy) and Thai Tom Ka soups on the same page, shrimps in a spicy tomato-lemon sauce, or a Roman goat cheese salad that includes some grilled oscypek (sheep) cheese with its characteristic squeaky chewiness for comparison. The menu’s loose leaf collection of well-worn pages permits seasonal flexibility such as plump pierogi z kurkami (pierogi dumplings stuffed with wild chanterelle mushrooms), resting on a thinned sour cream and dill sauce. Not too many, four or five, and perfect for a light summer repast.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $$ Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl. Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. Tiny Indian puppets hang from indigo walls inside what some term as Warsaw’s best Eastern food. The point is moot, but nevertheless disappointments are rarely found on the Tibetan/Indian menu. Only four tables, so don’t linger. $ ul. Żurawia India Curry (D5) 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. $$ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is

amongst the best in the city. $$

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not). What isn’t up for debate is its popularity. Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this

place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the

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RESTAURANTS Street Food Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626. Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/ Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/ bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $

To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $

Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a holein-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgianstyle fries. $

chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate

neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers. The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products

and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$

Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking midmarket eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash. Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some

truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4)

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RESTAURANTS InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303. Open 12:0023:00. Re-launched by new management, Bacio is unrecognizable from day’s yore. What once looked like a Venetian brothel has been stripped bare and given a stylish look that’s elegantly muted. They’ve got everything else right as well: from the wine to the cheeses to Warsaw’s biggest duck. $$

Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM.

Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic

Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$

The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

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to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open

Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and

Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding

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RESTAURANTS hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$

Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787,

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www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-

23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana

Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$

Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open SunThur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the

truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$

Sol y Sambra ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 404 7011. Open 12:00-laste guest. The third tapas bar to try its luck at this very address – what’s that about? Winning blanket approval across the board, Sol y Sambra will be hoping for better fortune than previous tenants. The food is fresh, simple and unfailingly successful. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe

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RESTAURANTS courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch MonFri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner

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Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and those for the dignitaries: the final result though is middle-of-the-road stodge. People – us included – return for the atmosphere rather than the food. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $

Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if

not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet BEST WAWA 2011 flourishes. $$$ “Address to Impress” Winner Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene –

finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Polka ( D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30;

Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. And yes, it’s got Magda Gessler’s name stamped on it. $ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the

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RESTAURANTS desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.

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La Fromagerie Bistro & Deli ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 23 24 Open Mon-Thurs: 9:00-20:00; Fri: 9:00-21:00; Sat: 10:00-21:00; Sun: 11.30 - 16.30

uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Crottin de Chavignol is the most famous goat cheese of the many varieties produced in the Loire Valley in the village of Chavignol, France. Protected by the AOC Seal, Crottin de Chavignol is produced today using traditional methods. The flavor of Crottin de Chavignol is subtle and slightly nutty. A classic dish is baked Crottin de Chavignol on a green salad. The dish is said to go well with a Sancerre wine from its home region. Find it now available at: La Fromagerie.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul. Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00). British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready BEST meals, confectionary and preserves. WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. An excellent online store retailing everything from mild sauces (Blair’s Wasabi Green Tea, Jim Beam BBQ), to the super, crippling hot (Ass Reaper, Dave’s Ultimate Insanity). Of the other brands favored by hotheads, find labels such as Mad Dog, Melinda’s and Crazy Jerry’s. Extracts, chili peppers, salsas and snacks also available. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

Reviews: Cafe Lorentz 51 / Plus:

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 51 / WINE BARS 54

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2011 Winner............. Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries.

Cafe Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

arsaw has many great museums. At the top of my own personal list is the Polish Army Museum on Al. Jerozolimskie. For anyone with a love of history spending a few hours surrounded by antique guns, swords, tanks and the winged armor of the Polish cavalry is a seriously enjoyable experience. Not far behind, and literally next door, is the imposing presence of the National Museum. For some it’s too traditional, and admittedly, if you don’t like giant paintings of serious looking people in funny costumes doing debauched things to each other and their pets, then it’s not for you. But whether or not you like the art on display, there’s now another reason to visit. Situated in the gardens at the front of the museum Cafe Lorentz provides the perfect refined setting to while away a few hours relaxing and thinking about nothing much at all. It reminds me very much of the cafes at Britain’s National Trust stately home’s, with a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decoration, and a green, outdoor area populated by wicker chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy, with dishes such as quiche, hearty soups, various cakes by the slice, homemade lemonade and even the surprising addition of sushi. Not long back, had you asked a Polish museum employee the way to their café you’d have been pointed to a vending machine. That you now find yourself in a place of Lorentz’s standard is progress indeed. It felt very much like having afternoon tea during British summer time, with even the sky being overcast one minute and sunny the next: just like being at home. And if you don’t believe me, then take my mum’s word for it. On her first trip to Poland for a few years, she took one sip of her milky tea and remarked, “Oh, this is very pleasant, isn’t it?” Which for an English woman of my mum’s age is high praise indeed, and pretty much guarantees a five star rating. (DI)

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high. Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts. Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333,

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Słony Magda Gessler invites you for the best breakfast in Warsaw in the morning and for snacks served with wine and ‘shots’ of lager in the evening and night.

www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Café Galeria Sztuki (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www. caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. Yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

We recommend:

• “Sznytki” - small canapès with spreads (also available for takeaway and catering) • The best white sausage in Warsaw • Herring served in different styles • Viennese specialties: leberkäse, debreciner and Frankfurter sausages • Breakfast sets and breakfast à la carte. On the weekends served till 4 p.m. • Wide selection of gluten-free dishes Słony, 11 Piękna St. (crossroads of Piękna St. and Krucza St.) Tel. 22 629 0364; 506 052 093 www.slony.pl; slony@slony.pl

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Once known for its battered look and antiestablishment attitude, C25 has undergone gentrification. It all began with losing their alcohol license. Now, all the dreadlocks, piercings and second hand furniture are a distant memory, replaced instead by a middle class crowd and a cleaned up look. On this occasion, change has not been for the better. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! Klubo Kawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts,

screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all. Limoni Canteri 1952 (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52. Open 8:00-22:00. What appears as a run-of-the-mill high street cafe is anything but. The ice cream here is sensational, with unconventional flavors that deviate from the norm – really, have you ever ordered a cone of tomato and beer flavored ice cream? Italian run, it’s a must in the summer.

Lody na Patyku (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. One of our favorite openings of the summer; selling ice lollies of every shape, size, flavor and color, this unexpected project is an initiative of the guys who run Warszawa Powiśle and Syreni Śpiew. Looking clinical and white, it’s a star of the summer. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016,

www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl. Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji. The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:0021:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502. Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00. A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish

visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

WINE BARS Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London. “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laidback atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers

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daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature. Les Secrets de Vin ul. Wałęcznych 68, tel. 780 578 571, www.secretsduvin.pl. Open Sun, Tues-Thurs 11:00-20:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. The menu comprises of tapas snacks, and they also run wine tasting classes and Mediterranean language courses. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Reviews: Watch Me/Organza 55 Plus:

* 20 updates

NIGHTLIFE BARS & PUBS 55 / CLUBS 58 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 60

KEY

Hot Finds on Mazowiecka

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BOW 2011 Winner............. Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS

BarKa (D1) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33. Like Plac Zabaw, this place is a summer offshoot of Plan B. The difference is, it’s a boat! Deckchairs and canvas canopies are the order of the day on this barge, with regular live music drawing crowds from over the city.

Watch Me ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.watchmeclub.pl. Open 19:00-4:00. Organza ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.kluborganza.pl. Open Wed-Sat 19:00-4:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

orgive my sentimentality, but I’m forever making comparisons between what Warsaw was and what Warsaw is. And nowhere, since my arrival in 2000, have the changes been more pronounced than on ul. Mazowiecka; back in the day, it was pretty much your typical local side street of the time – a place of blackened, bullet holed buildings occupied by obscure stores hawking buttons and junk. Things changed, slowly at first, with the opening of Paparazzi. Now though, it’s fair to call this area Warsaw’s nocturnal heartland. Located on the former sight of a peep show (so I’m told), Watch Me is the latest bar/club hybrid to try its luck on this stretch. Seen as a glass block from the outside, it announces itself with floor-to-ceiling windows allowing all and sundry to, err, peep into a glass walled room with a large square bar. Lit by the bare bulbs that hang above, a bucket of champagne stands on the bar – affording a glimpse at the crowd that they seek. So far though, that crowd has been slow through the door – a fact that becomes painfully exposed on further exploration. Down through a side door Watch Me opens up into a multi-level club space, one with a sunken dance pit and a neon stripped stairwell. When the Insider visited, staff outnumbered the guests, a sorry sign for a street of such stock. And so, with Saturday in full swing outside, the decision was reached to hit pastures new: Organza. Now Organza began life on ul. Sienkiewicza, but have recently moved to Mazowiecka. So far, the switch has reaped dividends. While Watch Me was empty, this place was jumping. The layout is basic: set over two floors lit in Organza’s signature orange/black colors, it’s shiny and new and all things Warsaw. The crowd though, does merit comment: dressed up and fun yet lacking arrogance and airs, this lot make a pleasant change from the catty characters of the capitals clubs. With competent DJs blasting ear drumming dance sounds, it looks a convincing addition to the line-up of clubs. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647. Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider.

Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157. Open 8:00-23:00. Before Zbawiciela became The Center of the World, Bastylia was an unassuming pancake shop with a militant lesbian following. Smelling money it’s done a 180 turn and been reinvented as a champagne bar with whitewashed brickwork and mandarin sofas. For all the effort it just doesn’t feel right – and the staff get plenty of big red crosses. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine

well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. How fickle this city can be. Two months ago we were proclaiming the launch of the Bulldog as one of Warsaw’s finest moments – then, inexplicably, the ownership got shot of the manager who’d made it the success that it was. Cue outrageous service, an ex-pat boycott, and a future that looks grim.

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view. Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager. Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, www.cudnadwisla.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. What summer drinking should be about. Deck-

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chairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Dorum Art (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 601 220 895, www. dorumart.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Entered through a clunky set of metal doors, this space is everything you expect (iron posts, rough plaster, raw concrete) as well as a lot that you don’t. Fulfilling a joint function as an art space, interiors glitter and glow with the illuminated stained glass pieces of Katarzyna Czajka – horses heads, an elephant and a throne. It’s like waking up in a David Lynch film. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different.

Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Ex-pat Warsaw hit meltdown earlier this year when it was announced that landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. Along with the new man come plenty of promises for more music, more TVs and a more family friendly atmosphere. We don’t care if they let serial killers in, as long they keep serving Poland’s best Guinness. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches

while sausages grill over an open fire, inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Lots of middle aged hipsters wearing Teletubby t-shirts here, but they’re easy to ignore after beer No. 5. Touting sixty regional beers, the design doesn’t evolve beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices – it doesn’t need anything else to work; similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and a permanent buzz. Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back. Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students.

Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094. The former HQ of the SLD political party now finds itself utilized as a bar. Their success though is largely due to the shaded park outside. Filled out with deckchairs, it’s come to resemble a giant, beery picnic. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze

of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer. Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports. Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola). Open 12:00-

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NIGHTLIFE 4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Some of Poland’s finest cocktails knocked up by a crew who learned their trade in some of the world’s top bars. Looking ruby red and vaguely art deco, Porto is a one stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one. Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore. Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a

new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Brought to you by the creators of Warszawa Powiśle you’ll find this place housed in a hideous concrete monster born in the 70s. An over 21 door policy and over 80 types of whisky lend it a mature, affluent look. The interiors are cool and retro, much like the people. The prices, though, aren’t so much modern as they are totally futuristic – bring plastic.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. A highly generic looking bar whose location and opening hours are enough to warrant it a place on any Going Out list. Recovering addicts might not appreciate the toilets – they’re decorated with fake lines of sniff. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth

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action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS

1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big

crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bac-

chanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard

NIGHTLIFE gateway and let the battle begin. La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl. Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic

Shot Bars Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. $ Pijalnia Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Warszawska (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucer-eyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

Miasto Cypel ul. Zaruskiego 6, miastocypel.eu. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-6:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Located in a forest clearing near the banks of the Wisła, this miniature creative community includes a campsite and flea market. Visit late on a weekend to find the marquees and open-air stages jumping to diverse sounds enjoyed by a varied crowd. Greeting sunrise here can be an ethereal experience, though a tolerance to mosquitoes and other hungry critters is required.

pop art murals and hip hop sounds – the dance floor is an extrovert’s arena. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Hustler (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 3, www.hustlerclub.pl. There’s a good dozen clubs jostling for the title of Warsaw’s top strip club, but this newly launched gents club is better than most. Find top notch talent swinging their hips for tips, and an XXX Factor that shoots off the scale. If strippers are judged by looks, this place earns a ten.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00-6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com.pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Silk Pl. Powstańców 2. Open Fri-Sat 20:00-6:00. There’s a sense of the exclusive about Silk, what with its black canopied entrance and blinged up crowd. Inside exposed pipework and glittery pillars fit along nicely with the

Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub.com. pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international lineup that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Reviews: Follow Me 61 Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 63 / FASHION 61 / HOME DECOR 63 / SHOPPING MALLS 64

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Follow Me ul. Okrąg 1, tel. 669 295 567. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:30; Sat 11:00-15:00.

ucked away on a quiet little street in upcoming Powiśle, the Follow Me boutique slots right in with its enchanting surroundings. As I enter, I can’t help but feel like Alice in wonder(shoe)land. Hundreds of candy-like flats and heels (that come in soft pastels or bright neon, studded or with a bow, leather or suede) stare at me from every angle and I can’t stop myself from feverishly running from one shoe to the next, touching everything and trying to decide which pair I love more. As I handle some Mauro Leones, the store’s co-owner confides to me she hand-picks each and every pair that ends up on Follow Me’s shelves. And yes, these shoes are handmade to perfection. That’s right, I said it: hand-made! And boy, does it make you feel special knowing you have unique, one-of-a-kind pair of shoes. I’m a tall girl, so it’s the flats (or ballerinas, as Polish ladies call them) that draw my attention. Especially the black leather with tiny (oh, so cute!) silver stud tennis shoes, or the pink, chic and simple flats that can be customized with a stitch-on bow of your choice… And what makes my day even brighter (other than the color of my new pumps), is their price. Averaging around 300 zlots a pair, I would usually advise to go get ’em before someone else snaps them from underneath your toes – but wait a minute! As the co-owner reassures me, should the store run out of your favorite color, design, or size, you can just place an order online and have them delivered to your home! How about that for service. So, this summer, I’ve got no qualms about telling you to Follow Me. Or, rather, follow my lead, and get accessorized-up for the upcoming hols with some of these fabulous pumps. (ID)

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

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SHOPPING Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3)

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Once a bar, its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre,

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3,

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins. Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES 400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space. Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are

not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Viennabased jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend or fellow Insider. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Pracovnia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

The only organic market in Warsaw

Fresh fruit and vegetables Dairy products, free range eggs Bread and pastry Meat, poultry and cold meats Wine and beer Cosmetics and cleaning products

CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTS Warszawa Żelazna 51/53 (former Norblin factory) every Saturday 8:00-16:00 ECO EVENTS! EVERY FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH WE EXCHANGE ELECTRO WASTE FOR ECO GIFTS! payment in cash or by card (on selected stands) free parking for clients

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SHOPPING ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building

(Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1)

ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget. Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving.pl. Furniture, home design and fashion from Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl

“The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone” - WARSAW INSIDER

“It’s a good place for fashion lovers and those who like to experiment” - GAZETA WYBORCZA

“reykjavik district delights with simplicity, high end fashion and anoriginal look to the shop. It’s a really nice alternative for men” - ZWIERCIADŁO MAGAZINE

Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Wilanów Palace 65 / Plus:

* 3 updates

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 65 / CAFES 66 / EDUCATION 66

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Wilanów Palace ul. Stanisława Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. 22 842 07 95, www.wilanow-palac.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

chool holidays are in full swing; summer camp is over and the parks, the zoo and every city fountain have been conquered! What’s next to keep the family entertained until those ‘back to school’ posters reappear? How about Wilanów, a palace with gardens, a poster museum, mini golf, child friendly dining, plus a temporary summer beach club area. Growing up I was taken to every stately home within a two hour drive. It was fun to see how the other half lived. Endeavoring to continue this tradition our family has begun our tour of Poland’s aristocratic abodes with the summer residence of Poland’s King Jan Sobieski III: Wilanów Palace. The palace, a Baroque piece of art, promises exquisite interiors. One could compare it to a chocolate box moment: the wrapper looks so good you just have to taste what’s inside! On Sunday entrance is free, otherwise I recommend buying tickets for both the palace and garden. Also, go early to avoid queues and shuffling behind tour groups. Headphones for a personal guide are available but we preferred to meander at our own pace, marveling at what caught our eye and reading at leisure the laminated fact sheets that explained, in seven languages, the purpose of each room. Of course, you can also rely on the odd staff member to divulge snippets of information on trinkets they’re fond of: we found ourselves admiring a table embellished with enamel inlays of Napoleon and his female entourage, but it took us 10 minutes to escape the lady, bless her, as she was intent on telling us everything she knew about the table. After a giggle at some of the expressions and attire portrayed in the extensive gallery, an enthusiastic explanation regarding the King’s newspaper printer, a royal carriage and tiptoeing through the Princess’ bedroom we headed outdoors to see a blacksmith at work; but not before allowing our little princess to run amongst the manicured gardens and beyond to the park and lake. (GBB)

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Manufatura Cukierow ul. Tamka 49, www.manufaktura-cukierkow. pl. Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language. Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.com. A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Patataj ul. Krótka 9, www.patataj.com. Patataj offer riding lessons and pony trekking

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CHILDREN in a scenic location 25 mins from Warsaw. Polish is the mother tongue here, but actions speak louder than words where riding is concerned. Finish the day in the karczma. Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, www.teatrguliwer.waw.pl. Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater. Tramwaj Wodny www.zegluga-stoleczna.pl. One of the few boats to be seen on the river chugs up and down the Wisła from May onwards. The crew, dressed in pirate-like stripes, are even happy to let the children have a tug on the wheel. Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, www.zoo.waw.pl. The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones

English-run preschool Authentic Montessori curriculum Unique music program Natural playground Healthy nutrition

romp in the kids room. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe. pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys,

ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a

Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl. An organic menu and a gated play area equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses mark out Pompon, while the Nintendo Wii room is as popular with dads as it is with their lads.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw. Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, www.numerylitery.pl. Deep sofas aside, compact Numery Litery gets it right with a gargantuam selection of books to inspire your budding bookworm to literary greatness. Plenty of reading matter for the adults, as well. Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, umpalumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION

(entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska)

tel. +48 531 599 444 www.mapletreemontessori.pl

a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

PRESCHOOLS International Schoolhouse Warsaw

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

English-run preschool call Agnieszka Weston onul.604 464 333 or email: Piechoty Łanowej 46a Authentic Montessori (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska) office@theenglishplayhouse.com. curriculum Unique music program

tel. +48 531 599 444

Happy NaturalMontessori playground House www.mapletreemontessori.pl Warsaw Pre-school, Healthy Montessori nutrition ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori. pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/ Kodály-based music syllabus. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the International Schoolhouse Warsaw

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The preschool follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info

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CHILDREN intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 24, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta. pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

SCHOOLS Oznaczenie koloru:

C- 0% M - 52 % Y - 98 % K- 0%

Nazwa fontu : HoboEU Normal

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw. org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs R - 242 G - 142 B- 0

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a

continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@ canadian-school.pl. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction). Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Reviews: DS Instytut 69 / Plus:

* 3 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 69 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 71 / MEDICAL 73 / TRANSPORTATION 70

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www.dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00.

he area around Ujazdowskie-Mokotowska-Plac 3 Krzyży has become quite the haven for primping and pampering, not just chic boutiques. The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into state-of-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results. Now a lot of times you will get the snootiest vibe and it just ruins the entire experience. At DS though everyone is friendly, without getting too friendly. After an initial consultation I opted for a simple procedure for the face as, in spite of my age, I still have the complexion of a hormonal teen. As soon as the skin clears up a bit, I’m signing up for the Abahydria facials that are a sort of wet dermabrasion treatment that exfoliates, hydrates and nourishes with options like pure gold and other miraculous little skincare solutions (treatments range from zł. 150-350 - definitely worth the price). Then comes the body. I was presented with a series of different treatments: some relaxing, some energizing, some both! But I was intrigued by the newest item on the menu – the MED2 CONTOUR treatment. The apparatus uses ultrasound waves to stimulate fat cells and the lymph system to flush out fat cells and toxins, achieving a similar effect to liposuction, but without the complications. I was a bit terrified, a bit dubious, but my vanity got the best of me... So I gave it a try. What I can say? The best thing about all this is the results are immediate! We’d taken measurements before and after and I’d actually lost 1 cm off each thigh! Just as welcome, the 2-hour treatment was carried out by a handsome, young man in the prime of his life. The treatment is rather pricey - zł. 1,100 a pop - but it is worth it. After all, a series of three over a month’s time is a solid guarantee that even a lumpy-thighed lady like myself has a fighting change competing with all those lovely Polish gams. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages. Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306,

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LIFESTYLE www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included. Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Three minutes from the airport, the Express chapter of Holiday Inn is opening on 30 November and already accepting bookings. Check web for further details.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.

com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Award-winning service from a company that’s been active in the field since 1992.

TAXIS

Bayer tel. 22 19697 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów,

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LIFESTYLE tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl. Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered. B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers. Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www.nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists. Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at

reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products. Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, ul. Puławska 257, tel. 22 256 8010, pulawska@ dentalux.pl.www.dentalux.pl.

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

PRIVATE CLINICS

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96. The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health. Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl. Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

- Special offer AndreZadozda: - 50% for Endremolit face treatment and body treatments including an hour-long body massage al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl

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LIFESTYLE 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl. Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl. Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777. Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl. Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278,

ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com. Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors

with effective teaching styles. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free. Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson for beginners. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl. Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern.edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl. Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail.com. Dharma Yoga It’s well worth visiting the English/Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl. English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting. There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com. Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www.pff-warsaw.com. Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl. Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782.

International Christian Fellowship & International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. 601 897 731.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com. Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. For further info: please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further info: contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl,

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate. With facilities including well equipped studios, classrooms, a computer center, a darkroom and an art gallery For more info: www.wsfoto.art.pl/english.

EXCLUSIVE DAY SPA IN THE HEART OF WARSAW OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF BEAUTY AND BODY THERAPIES INCLUDING MASSAGE THERAPY, FACIAL, MANICURE, PEDICURE FOR WOMEN AND MEN CENTRUM LIM (Behind the MARRIOTT Hotel) level -1, shop 20 (In the direction of the Central Station) tel. +48/22/630 64 70 mobile 883 529 791 www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday 8.30-20.30 Saturday 9.00-17.00 Sunday for special order

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

84 Wa rINSIDER s a w I n s| AUGUST i d e r : 0 12012 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 76 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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11-08-24 08:35

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

through summer camps, through Sabbath, through many ways, we’ve taught people to experience Judaism in a noncoercive way. And it’s gone well – where we once had 250 families, we now have 600. Where once most of our congregation was aged 65-70, today they’re under 40. It’s a ‘young-ing’ community, not an ageing one. You must have heard some weird stories about people rediscovering their roots… There was one guy who spent 15 years in the priesthood before discovering he was Jewish. Another had a Nazi grandfather and Jewish grandmother. Then there was a couple who had started dating when they were both skinhead high school students. Both turned out to be Jewish – they’re now very devout: from skinheads to covered heads! You know, I’ve had three people walk into my office saying, “I’m circumcised, I don’t know who I am,” before pulling down their pants!

A native New Yorker of Polish ancestry, Michael Schudrich has been living in Poland since 1992 where he serves the community as Poland’s Chief Rabbi.

Before settling here you visited Poland a few times in the 70s, and attended Jagiellonian Uni. I can understand people returning nowadays to trace their roots, but in the 70s? That’s just bizarre. I am bizarre. I was 18, I’d never been to Israel. I was preparing my first visit when a friend said, hey, why not come with me via Eastern Europe. Well why not, it sounded a great idea. People were always talking about the Jewish life that had vanished from Poland, but I found myself fascinated by how much had survived. You returned to Poland in ’92 with the mission to revive Jewish culture. That’s an enormous undertaking – where do you start?! No, the first job was to see if there were any Jews left! And yes, we discovered greater numbers than we imagined. We found there were Jews, and that they wanted to be Jews. Revive Jewish culture? I don’t like the word revival, I prefer ‘reemergence’. But there is no answer to the question. Maybe there is a ‘B’ answer, and that’s education, education, education:

WARSAW INSIDER | AUGUST 2012

You were attacked by a thug six years back, and famously fought back and chased your assailant… I’m a New Yorker, what am I gonna’ do! Yes there’s antiSemitism, but no more than anywhere else. The challenge is not in the percentage who hate Jews, but in the number of people who tolerate it. Why do Jews think Poland is antiSemitic? Because of the past, because of the pre-war situation. But we’re not there anymore. Pope John Paul II did more than anyone in 2,000 years to combat anti-Semitism: “To know Jesus, you need to understand Jews,” he taught. This area around pl. Grzybowski was and is the center of local Jewish life. How do you feel about how it’s developing? In Judaism we preserve our culture through the way we live. We have tremendous respect for history, so it’s a good thing to preserve, but it’s also a good thing to move ahead. Warsaw is a modern city, Warsaw needs modern buildings. No-one here is destroying Jewish things – the Germans already did that. How about Kazimierz in Kraków – will Warsaw ever have a district like that? There’s an irony and an injustice that Warsaw was destroyed because it fought. I don’t think there ever will be a Jewish district here: the buildings aren’t here, the people aren’t here. But who knows, I never thought you’d be able to call Warsaw charming. But there is a charm. Looking back to the 70s, even the 90s, you’d have never have dreamt it would be possible to say that, but the impossible has become possible. In the last ten years we’ve seen the good impossible happen, as opposed to the horrible impossible which Warsaw has had plenty of. Chief Rabbi Schudrich can be found at Warsaw’s Nożyk Synagogue (ul. Twarda 6).

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CATCHING UP WITH THE RABBI

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