Warsaw Insider March 2013 #199

Top Local Design

Inside Warsaw’s Brewery page 18

Warsaw

page 24

An Eye on Polish Art

Moving? page 20

March 03 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(199)

2013

(VAT 8% included)

to our readers

MARCH 2013

on the cover

Made In POland

ne doesn’t have to travel far through the mists of time to realize that a Made in Poland kite mark hasn’t always been considered a flag of quality. Diehard communists might argue otherwise, but back in the day a Made in Poland stamp would have indicated many things, and not many of them good: defective cars and faulty goods that go boom after being plugged in. Poland, it’s fair to say, has had a checkered history of production – and if you don’t believe us, just check out the Ursus fiasco on page 14. But this is no longer a nation trapped in 1978. Blundering incompetence and gormless glory are a thing of the past. In recent years Poland has made considerable breakthroughs across a variety of fields: those in design, art, fashion and more. Young talents have gained national acclaim, not to mention increased global recognition. That’s why, this issue, you’ll find the Insider peering under the bed sheets to identify the main players – people who have launched the country forward on the back of their talent. The years of crappy Polish knicks knacks are over, and we’ve got the proof. So, with no further ado, here it is: the Insider’s first Made in Poland issue. Enjoy it. As always, check out the latest news and goss on our facebook (www. facebook.com/warsawinsider), or sign up for free to our weekly Friday e-letter (newsletter@warsawinsider.pl). Catch you next month.

Polish design has come far, which is why this issue we’ve gone for something a little more contemporary on the cover – something to reflect the bold vision employed by the young designers who are making the headlines. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PhoTogrAPh BY ED WIghT

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

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what’s inside

MARCH 2013

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

05 O pener Mumford & Sons 05 Calendar Music, art and events around town 08 Museums Listings and Insider’s Pick 27 I nsider’s Pick Warszawa Wschodnia 32 Insider’s Pick Papaya

Pegasi Square, 2008 by Pies Czy Suka

INfront

11 News in Brief Horses in the headlines, Mokotowska under attack & national news roundup 14 Relics of the PRL Ursus tractor factory, Archimapa, Nowa Huta & Mikołaj Długosz

FEATURES

21 Products Recycled 22 Interview PLICH 23 Products Folk

17 Made in Poland

24 Interview Browar Konstancin

18 Interview Konarska and Konarski design team

25 Products T-shirts

19 Products Design

26 Products Online fashion

20 Interview Apteka Sztuki

80 Why Warsaw? Ray Dickaty

Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com David Ingham dingham@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung Karolina Kalinowska Agnieszka Le Nart Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Etan Sanders Ed Wight

53 Insider’s Pick Bar Cenzura 57 Insider’s Pick Mały Wojtek 63 Insider’s Pick D. Bramante 1928 67 Insider’s Pick Fundacja Atelier 71 Insider’s Pick Toastmasters International 76 Street Index 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Reviews: Mumford & Sons 5 / Warsaw National Museum 9

CULTURE EVENTS 5 / MUSEUMS 8

EVENTS THIS MONTH

Insider’s Pick

OPERA Traviata Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1 This version of Giuseppe Verdi’s classic opera La Traviata is conducted and directed by Miguel Gomez-Martinez and Mariusz Treliński respectively. It tells the story of Violetta Valéry and her doomed relationship with Alfredo Germont. Tickets are priced from zł. 90, available from teatrwielki.pl

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

CONCERT

Mumford & Sons February 4 Stodoła, ul Batorego 10

ritish folk rockers Mumford & Sons have emerged as one of the biggest bands in the world since they burst on to the scene with their debut release Sigh No More back in 2009. The record, which contains the tracks Little Lion Man and Roll Away Your Stone, sold in the millions and helped the band crack the lucrative American market. Last year, the band’s second album Babel was released to similar critical and commercial acclaim selling some 600,000 copies in the US in just one week. Mumford’s Ted Dwayne says on the band’s website the latest release is, “Very us. When we made the first album it was to be a snapshot of Mumford & Sons in 2009. This is exactly the same — but it’s us now, and there’s a lot of the live energy in there.” This Warsaw gig is their first European show of the current tour and sees the band playing the relatively intimate setting of Stodoła. For those lucky enough to get tickets this is likely to be the last chance to see the British group in a venue of this size, with their career looking set to hit stratospheric levels. (DI)

Patrick Wolf (acoustic) Palladium, ul. Złota 9 English singer-songwriter Patrick Wolf is already six albums in to his music career at the age of just 29. His songs often mix classical musical elements with electronic samples but for his current tour, which celebrates 10 years in the business, he’s stripping back the technology to play a strictly acoustic set. Tickets are priced from zł. 79, available from ticketpro.pl

CONCERT Face the Music – Modestep Live

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CULTURE

CONCERT Jessie Evans Klub Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Singer and saxophonist Jessie Evans is known for her quirky, afro-beat inspired pop songs. Her style may not be to everyone’s taste but with infectious beats it’s the type of music that will certainly get your feet tapping along. Tickets are priced from zł. 35, available from eventim.pl

aims to bring to life the passion and emotion of a region that contains a pulsating mixture of styles and traditions. Tickets from zł. 100, available from eBilet.pl

BALLET A Midsummer Night’s Dream (Sen Nocy Letniej) Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1 The Polish National Ballet will premiere this interpretation of one of Shakespeare’s most celebrated plays. Choreographed by John Neumeier, this ballet fully expresses the magic and the spirit of the original play with extraordinary empathy and humor. Tickets are priced from zł. 90, available from teatrwielki.pl

The Darkness Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Glam rockers The Darkness are back with third album Hot Cakes, which sees the band once again hitting their stride following a six year hiatus and a spell in rehab for flamboyant front man Justin Hawkins. Whether you’re a fan of the band’s music or not there’s no denying they know how to sculpt classic rock riffs. Tickets available from zł. 105, available from ticketpro.pl

Example Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Like an upbeat version of The Streets, Example, real name Elliot Gleave, spills stories about his own life through beat-infused compositions. His fourth album The Evolution of Man was released last year and fans can expect to hear tracks from the new record plus old hits like Won’t Go Quietly. Tickets priced from zł. 65, available from ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

CONCERT DJ Shadow Klub Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 With his seminal debut release Endtroducing DJ Shadow helped reinvent the way music was made, with the record being the first ever produced using samples only. His most recent release, 2011’s The Less You Know the Better, was his fourth since he burst on to the scene back in 1996, and showed he’s lost none of the ability to rework old tunes in to something new. Tickets available from zł. 79, available from eventim.pl

CONCERT

CLUBBING BANG! Feat. Gesaffelstein, Brodsinski 1500 m2, ul. Solec 15 Up and coming French electro DJs Gesaffelstein (Mike Levy) and Brodsinski (Louis Brodinskimimo) star at the latest installment of BANG: an electro/ techno event which takes place several times a year across Poland. Tickets are priced from zł. 35, available from ticketpro.pl

Simian Mobile Disco 1500 m2, ul. Solec 15 This DJ duo are made up of Jay Shaw and producer James Ford, the latter of which has worked on tracks with the likes of Florence and The Machine and The Arctic Monkeys. The pair have made three albums together so far with their latest offering Unpatterns released in 2012. Tickets priced from zł. 35, available from ticketpro.pl

9/10

CONCERT Balkan Evening Teatr Studio Buffo, ul. Konopnickiej 6 A musical journey through the culture of the Balkans. This event

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

CONCERT

FOOTBALL Poland Vs Ukraine National Stadium This must-win match pits Poland against their Euro 2012 co-hosts. As the Insider went to press Poland were in third place in Group H, five points behind leaders Montenegro, meaning three points from this one are essential. For ticket information check pzpn.pl

CONCERT Hurts Palladium, ul. Złota 9 English pop duo Hurts are made up of singer Theo Hutchcraft (formerly Mr Dita Von Tesse) and synthesist Adam Anderson. Formed in London in 2009 their debut album Happiness sold more than a million copies world-wide spawning the hits Wonderful Life and Stay. Tickets are sold out but may be available for the right price.

CONCERT Jessie Ware Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Currently one of the hottest names in the music industry, this British singer-song writer has been described as the missing link between Adele and Sade. High praise indeed for an artist who only released her debut

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

Klub Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Electronic/dub-step outfit Modestep arrive in the capital to promote their debut album Evolution Theory which was released on February 11. The record contains the track Sunlight which reached 16 in the UK charts, and has garnered more than 22 million views on YouTube. Tickets are priced from zł. 59, available from ticketpro.pl

album, Devotion, in August 2012. The record, which reached number five in the UK charts, includes the hit singles Wildest Moments and Running.

OPERA Turandot Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1 This three-act opera was Giacommo Puccini’s final composition before his death in 1924. Set in ancient China it tells the story of the cruel Princess Turandot. This Polish interpretation is conducted by Carlo Montanaro and directed by Mariusz Treliński. Tickets are priced from zł. 90, available from teatrwielki.pl

his latest album American Soul which sees the former Simply Red man tackle covers of artists including Otis Redding, Etta James and Ray Charles. For those hoping to hear some of Hucknall’s past hits, reviews from his British shows suggest this set will only include songs from the new record. Tickets priced from zł. 209, available from eventim.pl

Media Patronage

CONCERT Peter Hook and The Lights Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Legendary former Joy Division and New Order bassist Peter Hook returns to the capital for the second time in two years. This time Hooky will be playing Joy Division albums Closer and Unknown Pleasures in full, with Happy Monday’s backing singer Rowetta helping out on vocals. Tickets priced from zł. 75, available from ticketpro.pl

Singin’ in the Rain – The Musical Ongoing throughout March Teatr Roma, ul. Nowogrodzka 49

CONCERT Mick Hucknall Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 Manchester-born singer Mick Hucknall is currently promoting

ased on the movie classic starring Gene Kelly, the Polish version has given the musical a modern makeover. Directed by Wojciech Kępczyński, this wonderful comedy contains all the hits and, unbelievably, real on-stage rain. It promises to once again be a magical night out at Poland’s number one musical theatre.

From

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ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFIC, GET THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH WEEKEND CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 672 65 65 www.avis.pl * net price per day, min.3 days required.

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji. com.pl. Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw. Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis. Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl. If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Ongoing until March 31: Interactive Music Exhibition. Is it possible to see sound? To touch it? To walk on it? Apparently so – and the Copernicus Science Centre can prove it through this innovative and informative exhibition. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl. Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Yoko Ono, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. From March 23: Mikołaj Smoczyński. What Outsiders Can Tell Us About Reality. A retrospective on the late artist who died back in 2009. It explores his work from the 1980s and 1990s and highlights his multifaceted creativity, emphasizing the intimate relationship between different types of artistic expression.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past. Ongoing until March 31: photos of 1950s Poland by Władysław Sławny. Ongoing until April 30: Henry N. Cobb’s photographs of Poland in post-war ruin. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl. Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. March 19: Charity Recital. Japanese classical pianist Yuko Kawai will perform some of Chopin’s greatest compositions in aid of the victims of the Japanese tsunami.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Galeria Le Guern ul. Widok 8, www.leguern.pl. First established in 2004, this art gallery focuses on presenting work from both the Polish and international contemporary art scene. It includes exhibitions from famous names as well as less known up-andcoming artists. Ongoing until April 24: Tomorrow Will Be Better. This photograph exhibition highlights the early 1990s in Poland, the first years after the end of Communism, through the images of legendary photographer Tadeusz Rolke. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Ongoing until April 21: Piotr Wysocki. Praktyki. This video installation, which fills the ground floor of the gallery, is made up of footage of action from the films of Polish director Piotr Wysocki. It includes film of a sexual minorities football match in Kraków and the confrontation between police and parkour enthusiasts in Radom.

art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing: Four Times World. Konstanty Jarochowski, Jan Kosidowski, Wiesław Prażuch, Władysław Sławny. This photo exhibition will be the first of its kind to present images created between 1951-1969 for the Polish weekly “Świat.” The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com. One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl. The very first museum of modern

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some

100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl. With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing until May 12: Great Theatre of the World. Spanning the period from 1945-2012 the posters on display give an insight

in to the changing face of theatre promotion in the year’s after WWII. Ongoing until May 12: From Aida to the Bat. The first ever exhibition of opera posters from home and abroad! The exhibition spans the years from 1945 to 2012. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising.

Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until March 31: A Few Practical Ways to Prolong One’s Life. This exhibition is inspired by the work of Polish artist Julian Antonisz and features inventions by various Polish artists.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

Insider’s Pick Cztery Razy ŚWIAT Konstanty Jarochowski, Jan Kosidowski, Wiesław Prażuch, Władysław Sławny (Press Photographers of the Illustrated Weekly “Świat” 1951–1969) National Museum Al. Jerzolimskie 3

his new exhibition brings together photographs that were commissioned by the weekly Polish magazine Świat during the 1950s and 60s. In its heyday the magazine had a weekly circulation of 300,000 and was, for many Poles, the main means of gaining access to what was happening in the wider world. As well as presenting front covers from the magazine, the exhibition also features photographs that never made it to print, articles from Świat and information on the men behind the pictures. “The true heroes of the exhibition are four outstanding photographers... whose common achievement was their ability to build a great team remembered to this day as a phenomenon in the history of the Polish illustrated press,” say the exhibition’s creators.

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INFRONT CITY 12 / FOOD 11 / LOCAL INTEREST 12 / NATIONAL 12 / NEWS 12 / PRL 14

May contain horsemeat FOOD

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Horses for Courses

Poland saw itself embroiled at the center of the ongoing horsemeat scandal that has dominated news in Britain and Ireland in recent weeks. Traces of horsemeat were first discovered in burgers sold by British supermarket Tesco and frozen food supplier Findus. Following the disclosure the finger of blame was pointed squarely at Polish suppliers by the Irish firm responsible for bringing the meat over from mainland Europe. British newspaper The Observer even went so far as to suggest that the dodgy horsemeat may be linked to both the Polish and Italian mafia who it says were running multi-million pound scams to dupe retailers in to selling contaminated products. The Polish government vehemently denied the allegations with Minister of Agriculture Stanisław Kalemba stating on Polskie Radio that, “According to our research there is not the slightest bit of evidence that the horse meat came from Poland.” Whatever the reality the news sparked a plethora of horse jokes across the Twitter-sphere, with users trotting out some outstanding horse-related puns on the subject. Among the best, @stuartproven suggested that supermarkets should now sell the burgers at “hoof price,” @StuartSedgewick quipped that the meat products were “low in fat and high in Shergar,” while @ adlaz said he felt like he’d been taken for a “foal” by the major supermarkets but didn’t expect the story to “run furlong”. (DI) facebook.com/warsawinsider

INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES Thugs Bunny An angry pet owner burnt down a horse stable after police told him they had no time to investigate his missing rabbit. Twenty-year-old Paweł O. from Leszno had ended an emergency 112 call saying: “You’ll be responsible for the fire and the fury that’s going to follow.” He now faces jail time for arson.

Medical Discharge

LOCAL INTEREST

Art Attack

Anarchist group 15W08 have claimed responsibility for the recent spate of paint attacks on buildings located on ul. Mokotowska. Under the headline “Exclusive living room with clothes destroyed,” the group wrote on their blog that they were: “Bored with the game… and having to behave like wretched servants in the castle of the king.” It is believed they targeted buildings on Mokotowska due to the exclusive nature of its boutiques and shops.

An OAP shot himself in the foot with a WWII machine gun after getting so enamored with his hospital nurses he couldn’t bear to leave them. Władysław B, 85, from Opole, had been home only a day following weeks in hospital when he blew his foot off so he could be readmitted. Son Piotr explained: “He’d grown very fond of them so as soon as he got home he shot himself and phoned for an ambulance.” A police spokesman said: “When he recovers he’ll have some questions to answer about possession of an illegal firearm.”

Cock Up

CITY

The world’s only transgender MP failed in her bid to become deputy speaker in the Polish parliament in February. Anna Grodzka, who was once a bearded publicist called Krzysztof Bęgowski, underwent a sex change in 2010 before going on to be elected as an MP for Palikot’s Movement in 2011. But despite the defeat her campaign has still been considered a victory for equal rights in one of Europe’s most staunchly conservative countries.

A new LCD display on Marszałkowska aims to keep track of carbon emissions and pollution in the Polish capital. As well as allowing authorities to keep a record on carbon levels, the satellite operated system also gives a temperature reading as well as tracking wind direction and speed, which means we can now finally dispense with the old method of licking your finger and pointing it at the sky to see which way the wind blows.

Sexual Politics

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Weather Warning

Nein, Nein, Nein A man who dialed the emergency services complaining of ill health was arrested after paramedics found he’d called them because he couldn’t open a bottle of German beer. The 56-year-old from Sandomierz is now facing a fine for wasting their time.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

NATIONAL

Stiff councilors branded a local culture guide a king-sized cock up after the cover showed a giant white phallus balanced on a chair. February’s council-funded ZOOM guide in Lublin was supposed to promote the ‘educational and cultural’ highlights of the city. Now fuming PiS councillor Sylwester Tujalew says he wants an explanation: “How this is supposed to represent art in our city is incomprehensible. This is simply obscene. We are appalled by it and demand an explanation.”

INFRONT

The X Tractor

So, here’s two words you won’t associate with communism: efficiency and productivity. And why on earth would you? It took little less than 40 years for communism to crack, though the warning indicators were on well before that. Don’t believe us? Then take the example of Ursus. While the Ursus brand actually began life in 1893, Poland’s first tractor factory only really attained household (not to say comic) recognition after the war. Following wartime destruction it took a couple of years for the plant to be reactivated, with the first tractor rolling out to much fanfare in 1947. “A Gift from the Worker & the Engineer on the 1st May to our Brother the Peasant,” or so proclaimed one rather rambling banner. The designs, at the time, were considered modern, futuristic even, and at this stage everything looked rosy. Things got better still for Ursus in the 1970s, primarily thanks to the billion dollar loans Poland was cashing from the West. With a bit of money in its pocket, the government chose to build a new Ursus factory in no man’s land, Warsaw, one that would produce 75,000 tractors per year. Which is where it all went wrong. It was years down the line when those on the factory floor realized that the nuts and bolts that had been ordered were the wrong size, and that the engines had been designed for Western quality diesel – not the stuff readily available in Poland. A series of nationwide strikes further paralyzed the plant, and it was over ten years till the first tractor was ready – by which time many of the parts, which had been sat outside for a decade, had already rusted. And as for that annual production figure of 75,000? Ursus hit 500 – in short, it was all one big cock-up, and a great instance of When Communism Goes Wrong.

Designer Mikołaj Długosz has paid his own tribute to the PRL years with the release of a series of wire mesh (the only spare material available at the time) chairs inspired by the period. Made in the same factory that once produced shopping baskets for the commie Sam supermarkets, the lightweight, retro chairs have proved a hit amongst the style conscious public, not least scores of hipster cafes.

Catching our attention this month is the latest installment of the Archimapa series – this one dedicated to the wall mosaics of the PRL period. The set-up is simple, with a Google-style street map on one side, and the points of interest on the other. These include 50 communist era mosaics, as well as the story and reasoning behind them. Snap up this magenta dazzler from the Warsaw Rising Museum and Dom Spotkań z Historią.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE TOP AND BOTTOM BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OTHER PRESS. OPPOSITE PAGE TOP, AGENCJA FORUM, BOTTOM ED WIGHT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89)

A Town Called Malice Having been carved up by its neighbors more times than a Christmas turkey it is, at times, hard to fathom which cities in Poland are, actually, Polish. But for one town defiantly lacking in identity crisis then look no further than Nowa Huta, Kraków’s ugly sister. Built in the aftermath of WWII, this model town became one of only two global cities constructed from scratch (the other: Magnitogorsk), and it was done so at breakneck speed: Andrzej Wajda’s film, Man of Marble, celebrates one typically conscientious commie who laid 33,000 bricks in one day. Ironically, this socialist showpiece town was actually inspired by the urban planning of inter-war New York: the tree-lined boulevards and municipal spaces were all designed with practicality in mind. Using the socialist realist style sanctioned at the time, the results were a sci-fi looking town with a steelworks at its heart.

But while planners envisioned this town of 100,000 as some prototype Stalinist settlement, the reality proved different. Nowa Huta became a hotbed of anti-government dissent with much of the protests centering around the Arka Pana church and the Lenin Steelworks. At one stage, a terrorist attack was carried out on the Lenin statue that once stood on Al. Róż (the only casualty was a local geezer who died of shock). Following the collapse of the single party system, much of Nowa Huta fell into disrepair. Cutbacks at the factory led to meteoric unemployment, and the town became synonymous with grinding poverty. In more recent times steps have been taken to restore it to its onetime glory, though in the meantime a walk under its shadowy columns and colonnades is a dreamlike experience that transports you to the times Big Brother meant something even worse than reality TV.

For the seminal Nowa Huta experience then a visit to Stylowa (Os. Centrum C3) is a must. Opened as the town’s first restaurant back in 1956, it soon became the spot to see and be seen if you were a local apparatchik. Serving Bulgarian wines, its marble halls were frequently packed out by the local elite. To this day, more vintage customers reminisce about the time international striker Andrzej Iwan was arrested for high jinks involving a waitress. The Stylowa of today hosts golden oldies ‘dance’ nights at weekends, an event which attracts a bizarre porridge of dapper pensioners, local yobs and confused backpackers searching out the real Communist party. Of course, you could visit Stylowa on your own, though for someting different give the chaps at Crazy Guides a go (crazyguides.com). Conducted in clapped out old bangers, tours involve a vodka(s) at Stylowa, the full story of Nowa Huta, and an unforgettable trip to a grotty apartment left over from the 1980s (pictured).

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Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

Messy tablecloth by AZE Design, price zł. 495.

Made in Poland

Globalization, open borders, etc. In an era when national individuality finds itself diluted like no time before, the Insider takes a look at the young Poles stamping their mark on local design. No 'Made in China' tags here, instead enjoy the best future forward Poland has to offer in terms of fashion, art, design and… of course… brewing.

Product Pages: FOLK, RECYCLED, DESIGN AND T-SHIRTS

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MADE IN POLAND greatest success. Now we are working on new products which will be available to everyone and be much easier to transport. We are planning to launch this new series in March.

Beata Konarska is one half of the Konarska-Konarski studio, alongside husband Paweł Konarski. They are the couple behind the celebrated bar/design studio Pies Czy Suka (Dog or Bitch). Here Konarska tells the Insider about her inspirations, her work and the Polish world of design. BY DAVID INGHAM WI: What influenced you to get in to the world of design? BK: I studied various areas of design and art, including graphic design, architecture and painting, so design and art have always been a natural environment for me and an integral part of my reality. I think the fact that we are dealing with artistic activities, mainly involving public space projects relating to my painting or site-specific installations, has had a major impact on our design. How would you describe your style? We like the abstract style of thinking in terms of design. We play around

with moving things from one reality to another. The manifesto of Pies Czy Suka is to create interior and exterior revitalization, new incarnations of deceased objects, plastic surgery on all imperfect things, to take icons into new dimensions, and provide psychotherapy for incurably sick toys. Here impractical things become practical and practical things become impractical. What products are your most succesful? Our Madonna Lamp, “People Saints in Four Races” and our collection of “Domestic Animals” have enjoyed the

Tell us the idea behind the eagle artwork? The ‘What is your Sign?’ project uses the Polish symbol of the eagle in six different forms – with a crown, without a crown, with a bird on its head, with a Christian symbol, with the Star of David and with an Islamic crescent moon... We wanted to challenge the stereotypical image of the Pole being closed to anything foreign. The project is kind of our own personal battle against the stereotype of a purebred Polish-Catholic. Design-wise Warsaw is getting some interesting work by upcoming designers – why do you think this is? It’s all associated with the natural need for designers to show and sell their products. There is currently a strong trend for fashion design, and therefore more and more consumers are getting interested in this field.

All designs by Konarska-Konasrski. From left: Rocking Pig zł. 6500; +Lamp zł. 1250; Madonna Lamp zł. 750; Eagle with Crown zł. 750

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

EVERY DOG HAS ITS DAY

Why did you decide to combine a bar with a design studio? The design store was opened in December 2009, but after a year of struggles we realized it was a niche idea and were forced to close. Then in December 2011 we found a new location on Szpitalna. We opened the bar as a place where customers can enjoy first class cocktails created using the latest trends in mixology – it’s another continuation of our approach to space and design and we have the best bartenders/taste wizards in Poland. The bar is also a great venue for exhibitions and presentations related to the broad field of design.

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DESIGN

1. Miętus Prototyp chair, by Refre, available from Reset Point, zł. 999 2. Pałac Kultury painting, by Notoładnie Studio, available from Reset Point, zł. 330 3. Syrenka Bag, by Uli Janowska/hellowawa, available from Red Onion, zł. 39.90 4. Blue Bulldog plate, by Pink Pug Design, available from Product Placement, zł. 75 5. Plopp stool, by Zieta Prozessdesign, available from Product Placement, zł. 2,150 6. Palace of Culture cutting board, by hellowawa, available from Red Onion, zł. 99

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MADE IN POLAND

financial investment, but also as an expression of the need to surround themselves with a higher form of matter. Who is your favorite artist currently represented by Apteka Sztuki? We have some great artists, both painters and photographers. Usually, we draw our attention to artists whose work borders the abstract. For us understatement and ambiguity are the most intriguing elements of artistic expression.

In a city largely bypassed by art, the Insider talks to Katarzyna Haber, curator of the widely and wildly celebrated Apteka Sztuki gallery. BY ALEX WEBBER WI: What’s the concept behind the gallery? KH: The gallery was founded as a place without boundaries. Originally it was supposed to be dedicated to the work of people with disabilities but it turned out that a similar assumption was to produce new barriers. Hence we had the idea to exhibit both: art brut artists as well as professionals with academy degrees. And what’s the name about? Well, there was a pharmacy located

here before, so to retain the cultural continuity of the space we decided to keep ‘apteka’ in the name. What kind of artists do you look for? Good ones, extraordinary ones that show originality. In light of the economic climate, are people actually buying art? In Poland, in practice, the art market does not exist. We haven’t yet seen the middle class, the rich or the educated investing in art – and not just as a

Left and middle, by Patrycja Dołowy; right, by Artur Winiarski

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Do you have a dream artist you’d like to represent? Ah, we’re still seeking him or her.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

THE BIG PICTURE

How has the Warsaw gallery scene changed in the last few years, if at all? The Warsaw art scene is very unstable, something reflected by the lack of an art market. Lots of new galleries fail shortly after launching. Galleries that have a strictly commercial character tend to have a limited offer unfortunately restricted to terrible kitsch, while those that are more ambitious quite often present art that is too hermetic: art that is created using humor as its basis, but that is only understood by the artist himself and those closest to him. At Apteka Sztuki we’ve endeavored to find a middle ground, presenting art which is aesthetically appealing, but above all, art that people are not afraid to share an opinion on.

RECYCLED 1. Telephone lamp 1981, by Maciej Pawelski, available from Le Pukka Concept Store, price zł. 800

2. Lamp made from washing machine parts, by PROFIZORKA: Agnieszka Kosior and Adam Stephan, available from Evergreen, price zł. 250 3. Lego bag, by Agabag, available from Product Placement, price zl. 359 4. Yellow lamp, WWWW (Warszawska Wytwornia Wyrobow Wszelkich), by Marek Lesniak, available from Evergreen, price zł. 250

5. Druh Lamp, by Maciej Pawelski available from Le Pukka Concept Store, price zł. 335

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MADE IN POLAND

What inspires you in your work? I draw inspiration from all different sources – art and culture, as well as my own life and experiences. Recently, the biggest inspiration for me has been the style of film stars of the 1950s, women who had incredible class, impeccable manners and wore elegant, feminine clothes. I miss those great icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. And even though I make reference to history, I’m set on making my designs current. I want to surprise the public as I believe the role of fashion is to present a vision for the future and one cannot just draw from what has already passed.

WI: What sort of woman do you design for? P: I design for women who appreciate one-of-a-kind pieces, who value quality and tailoring. For women who value what is chic and original, and also sensual. I take care not to reveal too much in my designs – my goal is to bring elegance and subtlety to each piece.

Collection available on mostrami.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Who would you love to dress out of all the women in the world? There are certainly many beautiful and elegant women whom I’d love to dress, but I don’t draw up wish lists of stars I’d like to see in my designs. As I’ve said before, the individual is what counts for me and I take a very individual approach. I find the sensibilities, feelings and emotions of the other person very important. This is why I’m not one of those designers who wants to dress the biggest stars from the covers of magazines: I’m more interested in what a particular person is like, who they are and the chemistry between us. How do you think the Polish fashion market is evolving? From one year to the next, what stands out is the evolution of the customers’ awareness of fashion and there is a growing call for designer clothing. Poles are starting to value unique pieces more and more, they pay more attention to their appearance than before and I can’t hide the fact that I’m delighted by this.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

SIREN CALL

As a thirty-something designer who grew up in Kraków and Zakopane, PLICH has made a splash on the Warsaw fashion scene: he is a household name to all the glamorous starlets of Polish cinema. After making a name for himself among local fashionistas and opening a boutique on Mokotowska, he made an impressive debut at Paris Couture Fashion Week at the start of this year. BY AGNIESZKA LENART

What is your latest collection about? When I was designing this collection, I had an image of a woman coming out of the water onto warm sand, her body gently tanned, her hair tied in a messy bun, her eyes sultry with a swipe of bronze shimmer. She dons a beautiful dress and strolls across the beach. The S/S 2013 collection is divided into two parts: the first of long dresses of a mermaid silhouette and short dresses made of flashing sequins in pastel shades of pink and blue, the second is of light-as-air dresses of translucent georgette embellished with subtle prints. Everything is very feminine, elegant and romantic.

FOLK

1. Folk wall clock, by Laskowcy Design, available from sopolish.pl, price zł. 255 2. Skull bag, by Farbotka, available from www.farbotka.pl, price zł. 330 3. Folk mug, by Etno House, available from www.lrlr.pl, price zł. 48 4 She! lamp, by Protein Design, available from www.wccoi.pl, price zł. 308 5. Felt pad, available from Kapela Folk Galeria, price zł. 25 6. Folk rug, by Moho, available from Recamiere Lifestyle Gallery, price zł. 2,500

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MADE IN POLAND breweries like Konstancin, looking to appeal to more specific tastes. What was the turning point? Things really started to change after EU accession in 2004. All of a sudden Poles were working abroad and discovering new tastes. I mean, you’ve only got to walk in to a normal supermarket in Belgium and you’ll find 200 beers – probably more – from small little breweries. That made a difference.

Forget the mega brands, Polish beer is being given a new lease of life by the backwater breweries: places like Browar Konstancin. BY ALEX WEBBER

ast Warsaw city limits, and down a bumpy track of puddles and potholes, something truly wonderful is brewing – literally. Operating since 1993, Browar Konstancin have built on a tradition of local brewing that goes back centuries. Making use of classic techniques (no high gravity cheats here), natural components and water drawn from right underfoot, this small scale brewery has emerged as the perfect antidote to the faceless machine that is modern brewing. Looking ramshackle and rickety, this is no place for lab-coated nerds carrying clipboards. It is, however, a place of high pedigree beer, something the Polish public have finally started to realize. The Insider talks to Wiktor Sawoniaka, marketing manager of Browar Konstancin… WI: Poland’s got some great beers, so why do the low-quality big sellers continue to dominate the market? WS: There was a ‘revolution’ in Polish brewing in 1995, and that came with the birth of a company called EB.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

They were the first brewery with a strong marketing background. Polish customers at that stage were ‘pure’, innocent you could say. All of a sudden these guys came along with Western marketing tactics: branded umbrellas, pub furniture, ashtrays etc. While EB have since been bought out, their model and strategy was copied by people like Żywiec. Polish brewing became a marketing game with people concentrating on PR not taste. How the bottle looked was all of a sudden more important than how the actual stuff inside it tasted. Things are changing though, right? For the last few years there’s been three main players on the market: Heineken, Grupa Żywiec and Carlsberg. But after years of domination by The Big Three people have finally realized they want something new – something more authentic, something more original, and not just the same taste with a different label. For years all beers here were the same: there was no rye beer, no weizen, no porter, just lager. That’s where the little breweries stepped in,

PHOTOGRAPH ALEX WEBBER. ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF VENDORS

SMOOTH HOPERATOR

How have ‘the Big Three’ reacted? They’ve all started exploring these new avenues – for instance, we’ve seen Carlsberg introduce their own non-pasteurized beer: Kasztelan. Of course, it makes things harder for us, as they’ve got a whole marketing machine behind them, they’ve got the money, the managers… they’ve got everything. But at the same time, we don’t have the some constraints as them. We don’t need much money to introduce a new beer, and we don’t need to conduct market research. When we launch a new beer we just put it on the market and wait to see how people react.

Getting Shirty It may not quite be t-shirt weather just yet but it’s no longer a dream with spring now within touching distance. So here’s the Insider’s pick of the best Polish offerings for when the sun finally comes out.

All's Fair in Love and Warsaw by WARSAW, price zł. 120; Kompot by Pan Tu Nie Stał, price zł. 50; Bad Boys go to Hel by Go2Hel, price zł. 69

Jewish Friendly by Chrum, price zł. 69; Ryba i Frytki by Pan Tu Nie Stał, price zl. 59; Zołza by Pan Tu Nie Stał, price zł. 59

I love Warsaw by HelloWawa, price zł. 49.90; Fish and Chicks by Chrum, price zł. 69; Jestę Hipsterem by Lana Nguyen, price zł. 60

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MADE IN POLAND

Online Catwalk

Tired of trudging through the cold city streets looking for new clothes? Fear not: we run down some of the best online Polish fashion portals.

CLOUDMINE.PL From left: purple dress from Ela Chodorowska, price zł. 255; top from Domi Grzybek, price zł. 400; Shanghai bag from Ania Kuczyńska, price zł. 180

DREAMNATION.PL From left: REM leggings from Dream Nation, price zł. 180; Hammer pants from Dream Nation, price zł. 290; PLANLWCB1 leggings from Dream Nation, price zl. 180

RISKMADEINWARSAW.COM From left: strong man tracksuit from Risk Made in Warsaw, price zł. 269; Scarf with hood from Risk Made in Warsaw, price zł. 249; Paper girl dress, price zł. 290.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

FULLOFSTYLE.PL From left: dress from Horror! Horror!, price zł. 1,200; Black dress from Belle, price zł. 159; Pocket tunic from Belle, price zł. 159

Reviews: Wschodnia Warszawa 27 / Papaya 32 / Plus:

* 13 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 27 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 27 / ASIAN 30 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 34 / BRITISH 35 / BURGERS 42 / CHEAP EATS 34 / FOOD SHOPS 51 / FRENCH 35 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 38 / HOME DELIVERY 36 / INDIAN 37 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 40 / ITALIAN 44 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 46 / JEWISH 46 / LATIN 47 / POLISH 48 / SCANDINAVIAN 51 /SEAFOOD 51 / WHOLE FOODS 52

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Warszawa Wschodnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 695 532 915, gessler.sohofactory.pl. Open 24hrs.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Kucharzy, I understand, means something along the lines of ‘eat with the chefs’. Well, that concept didn’t fall far from the Gessler family tree. But instead of joining the chefs plopping schabowy on your table, Adam Gessler’s son, Mateusz, took a hip leap across the Wisła to a lofty post-industrial building in Praga. Since hearing how big and great Warszawa Wschodnia was, I suggested going there to a bunch of friends. It took a little cajoling to get a cab convoy going to the Soho Factory, but I really wanted to see what the buzz was about. Once we made it there, we had two options: to dine in a vast interior with tables peering onto an open kitchen, or out on an island kitchen in a smaller room that looked like a bar. Since we were a group of eight, we chose the larger hall. While waiting for the last of our group to arrive, another concept of the Gessler clan came to my mind – don’t let your guests know who is serving them. Once we figured it out and got a few appetizers of stuffed eggs and pierogis (delicious), the night of culinary exploration looked promising. After all our group showed up, we put in our orders and chatted about how puzzling it was to order beers. It seemed that if we ordered a local beer, they gave us a Heineken (saying they were out of the local beer), but if we asked for a Heineken, they gave us a Tyskie. Don’t even ask what they gave when we asked for a Tyskie. When my dish arrived, Bryzol covered in mushrooms with potatoes and cabbage, I was smitten by the golden coat of fried goodness that sat in front of me. But I fell out of love after the first kiss: the meat had the consistency of a pulled hamstring, while the grease made me think that it was soaking in warm oil all day until the pan fried. Gross! And to top it off, the cabbage was just a cold sałatka nestled between the fried nightmare and undercooked potatoes. Taking into account the name of the restaurant and the neon sign outside, the only difference between this and a train station is a train station probably serves better food. (KD)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups

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RESTAURANTS of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www. dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0024:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is

to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Now favoring a concrete, industrial look, SPE have lost the Sky Sports and rousing rock acts that once made them such a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Nonetheless the Tex Mex renditions remain both reliable and good, though now they’re enjoyed more by hotel guests than repeat visit ex-pats. $$

Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www. spocoloco.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Hotheads look no further than Spoco Loco, a Wilanów eatery that grades its salsas from 1-7: order the No. 7 and you’ll be running outside to stick your head in the snow. Huge servings, with liberal prices ensuring you get plenty of bang for your buck. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5)

ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge looking Chinese

eatery whose design even incorporates a foot bridge. The menu is exhaustive, and the whole Peking Duck is money well spent if you’re in a group. Head downstairs to snoop around Tshingis Chan, an all-you-can-eat Mongolian grill. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$

Co To To Je ul. Nugat 7, tel. 882 188 302, www.cototoje. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the latest twist in Warsaw’s diversification is this place – a restaurant specializing in bugs! Not for the squeamish, dishes here include silkworm skewers, mealworm larvae camembert, and crickets with duck and raspberry sauce. What could possibly go wrong? $$

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $

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RESTAURANTS

InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet

interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were

Insider Pick Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

as it really been seven years since Papaya first opened the doors? Apparently so, which is why the designers have been ordered in to make a few cursory alterations. But while the sheer white colors remain, these have been softened a little, giving the overall aesthetics a more soothing look. Yet even without hitting the refresh button, the management of Papaya can rest assured their restaurant remains one of Warsaw’s more contemporary settings – a

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$

Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. On the back of their success in the center find Natara now opened in the old town – bang in the same building that housed Maharaja for well over a decade. Many claim Natara as their favorite Thai in town, and it’s not hard to see why. Spices, authenticity and hospitality are all convincing.$$

Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own

place of precise lines and slick finishes. Looking similarly fly are the staff, and it was on the waitresses prompting I started with tuna tartar topped with an avocado crown. And what a bright start it proved: delicate, dainty and bursting with freshness. The photographer too opted for raw fish, kicking off with baked eel nigiri – it was declared faultless. Mains were a harder act to pick, and you definitely get the idea the menu would benefit from being slimmed down and edited: doing so would shave ten minutes off a complicated decision process. And why’s it so complicated? Well, why don’t you try picking between kobe beef, Peking duck or the teppanyaki grill dishes… Having flipped a coin I settled on the beef tenderloin, a tender hunk of cattle complimented by a clutch of asparagus and a rich slick of pepper sauce. I didn’t need to announce how good it was, words would have just cut into eating time. Opposite me, the photographer was making similarly short work of the green chicken curry: a neatly presented dish complimented with subtle flavors and fluffy rice. Not even the diminutive serving could offset the considerable success of the meal, but then again, with a seasoned Thai chef bossing the kitchen, excellence comes expected. Dining in Warsaw has advanced on all fronts, from the luxury end down to the bottom of the barrel. With so many newbies competing for the attention of the shrewd Warsaw foodie it’s not hard to sometimes forget the other players. But forget about Papaya at your cost: this remains very much one of the most exciting restaurants around. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Fusion Perfect (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 22 628 1825. Open 12:0024:00. If rumor is to be believed, the owner is the guy who once created the Dziki Ryż empire. The choice covers all the bases, the tastes are convincing and the restaurant looks like a typical mid-market Asian: subdued lighting and dark woods. All it needs now is a few more customers to fill out the tables. $$

set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788. Open 11:00-23:00. Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this depressing eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – don’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The

teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$

‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www. suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the

Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.whythai. pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:001:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages

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RESTAURANTS Cheap Eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626. Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $ Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:002:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open SunThu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00. Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ just a few of your options. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgianstyle fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN

Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$

Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $

Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $

Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balkfest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640,

www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open

12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www. prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are imaginative, and combine the best of Mediterranean and French cuisine to create beautiful combina-

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

tions and tastes. The chefs have been known to get experimental in their cooking techniques, though the renovated interiors remain pleasingly traditional. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$ Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11,

www.tawernapatris.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy to ignore the primary design, drawn out waiting times and lunar location. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better. Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means

several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. They’ve changed management once again, and that’s to the detriment of the restaurant. Once the corporate choice for when suits wanted it hot, the gradual decline has extended to the décor – looking dark and tired it’s a shadow (literally) of its former self. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not). What isn’t up for debate is its popularity. Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of chewing gum, and the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating in it. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined

ul. Rozbrat 20 00-447 Warszawa tel: +48 (22) 628 02 95 www.rozbrat20.pl

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We invite you to the Amber Room, where every visit lingers in the memory... We invite you to the Amber Room, where every visit lingers in the memory... The Amber Room Restaurant is located in the Sobański Palace, on one of the most

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Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, Warszawa 00-567 tel. 22 523 66 64 recepcja.palac@twe.com.pl www.amberroom.pl

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RESTAURANTS the Insider’s balti expert. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this

place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for

lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit included outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on Friday when dishes like fish & chips are served. $$$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch

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menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ BEST WAWA 2012 “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner

stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$

Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$

Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm,

GR Bistro & Restaurant (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), tel. 22 828 4285, www.grbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. Tucked next to the Wedel chocolate palace, GR isn’t short on charm and intimacy. Step upstairs where the restaurant unfolds into an attractive area set out with leather chairs and vintage photography. With

little more than four mains ever appearing on the card the menu can’t be accused of showboating; the dishes that do make it on though win universal praise – the chicken medallions come served with lime sauce and fresh figs, and the combination works excellently. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the

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RESTAURANTS former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar

is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top BEST WAWA ranked sommeliers. $$$ 2012 “Hotel Restaurant” Winner Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of

Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $

Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s love affair with burgers gets stronger with the opening of Brooklyn. With the best location of the lot, and a young American chef doing the biz in the kitchen, this is not just another copycat. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!), make this so much more than just another burger joint. $ Burgerator (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B, tel. 533 626 242. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00. Penetrate the office/residential complex that’s sprung up around Żaryna to find Burgerator, a cheerful burger bar with a pop art touch and burgers that reflect the slavish perfectionism of the owner. A great place, and if we’re to believe the rumors, the first of many Burgerator’s that will appear around town – good news for all. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska).

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Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking midmarket eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash. Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. You’ll find fancy-looking Moonsfera at the top of the Olympic Center, and the panoramic views figure high on the draw. The international menu is an explosion of creativity, with dishes including duck breast served with ginger and carrot puree, caramelized pear and fig and cherry/thyme sauce. $$

Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet. Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the beautiful back garden is closed off for winter. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$

excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Two private dining rooms and a more public space await at Porto Praga, a ruby tinted venue with mild Art Deco undertones. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients and dishes, and each Thursday and Friday sees fish given an added platform. Pair the food with over 30 different wines available by the glass. $$

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise,

tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12,

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RESTAURANTS there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. With cutlery from Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, columns and reliefs from the days this was the Soviet Embassy and 1950s Oswald chairs, it sure looks the part. The menu is contemporary but never flamboyant, with our meal including tuna tataki for starter and a pink duck breast for main. Both were excellent, and exactly what one expects from Poland’s top hotel. $$

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec. waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www. soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: raw brick and vanilla colors. The menu is concise, but involves lots of ingredients picked from the finest local producers - some of it custom-grown especially for them. This is contemporary Polish / international cuisine whose presentation is magnificent. A foodie draw. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food

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remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio. pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

ing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $

Bravo Roberto (F9) ul. Sułkowicka 2/4, tel. 22 841 4010, www.bravoroberto.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. The eye-catching (and eye-wateringly expensive) Belvedere apartment block is the base for Bravo Roberto, a beautiful restaurant whose interiors mix traditional with contemporary. The lamb tartar is the recommended starter, while for mains the seafood is notable. $$

La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convinc-

L’Olivo (B4) ul. Żelazna 59A, tel. 784 442 240. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-22:00. The menu is cheaper and less extravagant, but the level of passion is equal – from the makers of Delizia comes L’Olivo, an informal looking spot with fantastic pizzas using the same quality, import products and a range of other authentic choices. The affogato is not to be missed. $

Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO

highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886,

Rossopomodoro (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.

AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36

TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

RESTAURANTS pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$

Venti-tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over,

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00;

JAPANESE & SUSHI

especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We keep coming back for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently

at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging meats and long communal tables, Aioli has a decent offer of sandwiches, breakfasts, pastas and burgers. The mango-turkey burger is worth your consideration. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ DaliMi ul. Zwycięzców 57, tel. 22 616 1838. Open 10:00-21:00. A new tapas bar from Dariusz Opasek, the former chef at Mirador.

The range of tapas can’t be faulted, and neither can the overall taste. Even those with an aversion to Spain are catered for, with a range of bottled beers from Poland’s lesser known breweries. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Madera Grill (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 101, tel. 22 370 2552. Open 12:00-last guest. A large restaurant with an anonymous look and a menu that makes up for it with some tremendous meats. True, not everything is executed well, but the premium priced steaks are worth the spend. Portions are hefty, so if you’re visiting for lunch, then skip breakfast beforehand. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

REDISCOVER PIĘKNA BISTRO ON PIĘKNA 20! Pristine interiors juxtapose steel and concrete against dark, warm woods and a burning fireplace lending our venue an amazing character. Blending modernity and style, the interiors are reflected by an international menu, a carefully selected wine list and beautiful music. Come by in the morning for hot baguettes and fresh coffee, a laid back lunch, or in the evening, when lights dim and the mood slows down. For years Piękna Bistro has been a popular jazz spot, and at our concerts you’ll find young talents and celebrities, guaranteeing unforgettable memories.

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 Tel. 22 627 4151 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years

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RESTAURANTS cooking in Spain. But best is dessert – a divine chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie crust made in house. Not too sweet, not too thick, just right! Although not as free with foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it remains one to watch. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican. pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$ Sol y Sambra ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 404 7011. Open 12:00-laste guest. The third tapas bar to try its luck at this very address – what’s that about? Winning blanket approval across the board, Sol y Sambra will be hoping for better fortune than previous tenants. The food is fresh, simple and unfailingly successful. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin BEST WAWA star. Bookings essential. $$$ 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistroteka ul. Widok 8, tel. 602 239 528. Open Mon-Sat 8:30-23:00. Young talent Adam Leszczyński embraces slow food techniques here, using top notch seasonal produce to create a well-designed offer of contemporary classics. Full report next issue. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Vis a vis Bears Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84 NEW

Al. Solidarności 84, Centrum Vis a vis Court Tel 22 618 89 99

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$

Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$

guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. A relic of late 90s Warsaw, consider Kredens a fallen giant. Everything here is stuck in the past – once edgy, the awkward interiors now resemble a tacky mistake. The menu is a dud as well: a jack of all trades, but master of none. Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares would have a field day. $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. The seminal Polish village experience is recreated in Folk Gospoda, a simple, rustic restaurant who put a stress on using locally sourced produce and homemade condiments like bread and preserves. Clad in wood and farmyard debris, the menu is a hefty collection of pierogi, game and macho meaty fare. Look no further if you want authentic, big hearted food the way it’s served up in the mountains and down in the villages. $$

Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$

Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last

Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your

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RESTAURANTS one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/ deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the

wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. $

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship – expect Ramsay-style fireworks and tantrums when the orders start coming thick and fast. The food is textbook Polish, with steak tartare BEST WAWA hailed around Warsaw. $$ 2012 “Welcome to Poland” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.

THE VERY BEST

OF ITALY! ITALIAN RESTAURANT

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WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

jana.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A modern Polish eatery with a blond wood aesthetic accented with dabs of art and bowls of fruit. The food is cheap, cheerful Polish fare, with daily specials posted on their website. It fills the gap if nothing else. $

SCANDINAVIAN Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zwyczjana ul. Wspólna 54, tel. 507 652 596, www.zwycz-

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively BEST concocted ingredients. Fantastic. $$ WAWA 2012 “Most Kid Friendly Restaurant” Winner

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

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RESTAURANTS British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

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Hyatt Regency, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234

The Hyatt Regency in Warsaw has introduced a new children's menu at its Venti-tre restaurant. The menu which is called “For Kids, By Kids” is based around the idea that in contrast to adult menus, children's meals are often basic and lacking in variety. The new dishes have been created by Chef Volker Muehrer who wanted to let children build their own fun, flavorful and healthy dishes at the table. The concept forms an integral part of the Hyatt brand's “Food. Thoughtfully Sourced. Carefully Served” global philosophy, which is based around three main points: healthy eating, healthy planet, healthy communities. All of which means that every dish is thoughtfully sourced and carefully served using only the freshest ingredients.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. BEST WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

WHOLE FOODS Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$

Na Słodko Baba Wróżyła (D5) ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s taste for the good things in life takes a new turn with the opening of this easily pronounced locale. Specializing in top-end biscuits and cookies, it’s a luxury splurge for those with a sweet tooth.

Surya (C1) ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 22 635 81 39, www.restauracja-surya.pl. Open Tue-Sat 12:0022:00. Found down in a former nuclear shelter this basement restaurant looks like a hobbit’s hideout, with lots of clunky timber doors leading down mysterious passages. Everything served is raw, and on the occasions they do use an oven it’s maintained under 42°C to keep all nutrients and enzymes alive. The raw pizza is better than anything you get at Domino’s, and the zucchini lasagna a brilliant surprise. Great list of smoothies, as well. $

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Veg Deli ul. Radna 14, tel. 516 188 136. Open 12:00-22:00. Rarely has rabbit food been so enticing. Delicious soups, bagels, dals, salads and suchlike are made with only the freshest local ingredients. $

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $

Reviews: Bar Cenzura 53 / Plus:

* 4 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 53 / WINE BARS 55

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BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Bar Cenzura ul. Mysia 3, tel. 515 967 123. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ine bars are increasingly in vogue in Warsaw, but to say many miss the mark is to wade deep in understatement: unfocused wine lists, snotty sommeliers and bland, reduplicated interiors are all common laments. So finding Cenzura is welcome news indeed. Set on the top floor of the Mysia 3 department store, the space itself offers immediate relief to the brutal, ugly weather. “I wanted this place to be peaceful in design,” says the owner, Kasia, “and to allow room for freedom of thought.” This has been realized through the incorporation of shock white colors and heavy concrete accents. It sounds stark and severe, but the effect is actually anything but, with what Kasia describes as the ‘primitive beauty of concrete’ offset by the clever design touches of Paweł Grunert: a communal table set on intricate steel legs, an armchair made of poured concrete, not to mention no shortage of pipes, pillars and piles of boxes. It’s both stylish and soothing, words some people would never have associated with this address: formerly home to the national censorship office, it’s hard to imagine this wide, open plan space in its previous incarnation. But while the warren of stuffy little offices are history, many of the original details have been kept intact: metal palettes leftover from the bad days stand propped against cracked, ageing walls. But interiors aside, there’s much more to recommend about Cenzura, not least the actual drinks. A self-confessed wine buff, Kasia has put her knowledge to good use, sourcing a concise list of new world wines. Her choices speak not just of a discerning eye, but a game plan that overlooks quantity in favor of quality – just how many wine bars out here invert that formula? And novelties aren’t just limited to the design. Find Prosecco hooked up on draught (a first in Poland?), a smart idea that means the last glass is as fresh as the first. Naturally, Cenzura attracts it’s fair share of customers anchored down with shopping bags. But you’d be wrong to think of it as something of a post-retail afterthought. It’s a destination in itself, a point highlighted by the number of events, among them weekend DJs, art happenings, mixers and tastings. (AW)

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:0022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts. Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. After an eventful 2012 C25 is back with a bang – known for its anti-establishment attitude, new features include a clean new look of battleship colors and less useless junk. Comedy nights downstairs have proved a hit, while on ground level Chłodna resounds to that welcome hustle all the best cafes have: creaking floorboards, clattery board games, whistling kettles and dogs going woof.

Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed. Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Green Caffe Nero Many locations inc. Pl. Konstytucji 1, www. greencaffenero.pl. The British Nero chain have hooked up with the Green Coffee phenomena, with Green Caffe Nero the result of the unlikely fusion. Expect quality Italian blends, and fresh made-on-the-day food across the city. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve

salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. Loft Café (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 608 608 488, www.cafeloft. pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Brickwork and aquariums dominate Loft, while lighting is courtesy of strings of bubbles that dangle from the ceiling. The loud and lairy design befits the neon-lit exteriors. Clearly, plenty of people like it, we’re more ambivalent. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mały Wojtek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 791 520 503. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-4:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-4:00. A charming courtyard number with hand painted floor tiles, white brickwork and imaginative black and white lights that dangle overhead. In the afternoon it effects the busy air of a European café; at night, more of a raucous local shot bar.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. Moments ul. Nowy Swiat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades. So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls. Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl.

Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard.

Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent. Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502. Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00. A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Usiądź Sobie ul. Gen. Zajączka 8, tel. 502 555 128. Open 10:00-22:00. A crisp looking café with vintage antiques set against pristine white furnishings and shiny surfaces. The menu is health conscious, and even includes a calorie count next to the breakfast options. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wiatraki Dwa ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 502 686 121. Open 10:00-21:00. A two floor café that looks and feels perfectly formed. Snuck away on Winnie the Pooh Street, Wiatraki has a sparing, modern design and a fresh, natural menu.

WINE BARS

Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishing by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in Socjal (E4) sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. something special.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is

comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 29/31. Wine lovers only – there’s no beer (!). With a blueprint that involves a multi-level bar area, shop and a cinema as well as a pedigree that includes a hugely successful operation in Poznań, visitors have every right to expect something special. According to one Insider, the food is up there with Warsaw’s top restaurants. We’ll be visiting soon to confirm. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy this large white room has an interior supplemented by jarring artwork and a set of swings. In the world of wine it’s vital the customer can connect with the sommelier – here it felt like we were joining the SS. The wine list is as serious as the service, and with only two wines available by the glass it’s not for the occasional wine fan.

Reviews: Mały Wojtek 57 / Plus:

* 6 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 57 / CLUBS 61 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 62 / JAZZ CLUBS 62

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner........... Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. Mały Wojtek ul. Bracka 20. Open 10:00-4:00

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

arsaw is a place that makes it hard to find the best bars. With no genuine drinking district, decent venues are often spread out across a large area or hidden away down back streets you might not even know exist. Take Mały Wojtek, a bar allegedly named after a neighbor who makes persistent noise complaints. It’s right in the city center just off ul. Chmielna, but situated as it is in the darkened courtyard of a pre-war tenement, there’s every chance you’ve never heard of it – let alone visited. Marketed as a bistro/bar it’s definitely more of the latter as it only truly hits its stride come nightfall – that despite the early opening hours and the fresh food and coffee options aimed at daytime punters. As you’d expect with a place that has ‘little’ in the title it’s not one of the biggest bars you’ll find, but sometimes good things come in small packages and that’s definitely the case here with a great design that includes a wooden bar and tables that mix well with oversized black and white lampshades, original brickwork and tiled floors. On the beer front the very decent Książęce Ciemne, a dark, smooth option that slips down very easily, sits well alongside its bedfellow Książęce’s Czerwone – but that’s about it in terms of pint glass options, something which may disappoint the connoisseurs among you. However, a more than respectable selection of spirits includes some lesser known but good quality Polish and foreign vodkas, as well as a decent array of whisky and brandy, meaning there’s still plenty of variety. In terms of negatives it can certainly be hard to find a place to stand on Friday and Saturday night particularly between the hours of 8 p.m. and 11 p.m. Added to this the music is hit and miss, with some top drawer guitar based music making way for an awful album of soul/jazz covers of classic 80s hits by The Cure and The Ramones during our most recent visit. But to counter this the service is spot on, and with great interiors and a laid back atmosphere it’s certainly a bar that you should take the time to seek out. (DI)

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar. The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s succesfull, but that doesn’t make it special. Find four house brews, none of which impress, served by waitresses in tight, flirty outfits that reveal all their foibles. Don’t expect kind words about the food, either –

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NIGHTLIFE amateurish at best, inedible at worst. Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious. Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers. Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey /

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white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. BEST WAWA 2012 “Cocktails” Winner

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Rudderless for a year since the departure of the original landlord, Kevin, this former ex-pat bastion is looking increasingly haggard and past its sell by date. Tales of staff sackings, walk-outs and boycotts have swirled thick and fast since new owners took over in Feb, with all the signs pointing to a brief and unhappy future.

Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named

after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

NIGHTLIFE Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

PaństwoMiasto ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9464. Open 9:00-24:00. Found in one of those colossal communist blocks emblematic of the district, first impressions are of a cold, cavernous space: stone floors, echoing acoustics and blank, boring color schemes. But PM grows on you fast, thanks in particular to a decent beer selection and a fiercely intellectual spirit. Look out for the chef’s corgi, a friendly chap usually

snuffling under the communal tables. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe

Shot Bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval. Bistro Relaks (D4) ul. Złota 6, tel. 508 566 824. Open Sun-Thu 14:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 14:004:00. Retro style murals, some commie neon and staff in bow ties lend a distinct PRL edge to this shot bar, something enjoyed by a predominantly early 20s crowd. Głębokie Gardło (D2) ul. Bednarska 28. Open 16:00-5:00. Deep Throat reinvents the shot bar experience, thanks largely to a design that looks like it may have involved a professional. Using crisp blue and white colors, this vaulted chamber looks even better once the club crowd start emerging for post-party shots. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

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Między Wódką z Zakąską ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00. Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods. Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get the job done, and fast. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Podwórko (D4) ul. Bracka 3, tel. 508 298 065. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-1:30; Fri 11:00-3:30; Sat-Sun 18:00-1:30. Set down a gloomy courtyard Podwórko opens up outback where it effects the character of a 30s style living room. It doesn’t liven up till the later hours, when an EMO-style crowd turn up to take advantage of some decent beers and liberal finish times. Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers. Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. The most global choice of beer in Warsaw, with international prices to match. The white minimalist interiors get busy with a cool crowd of urban sophisticates. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-

24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers, while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of BEST WAWA Scotland, Ireland and Japan. 2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint. Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky (D4) ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00,

www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:0022:00. With no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars it’s not the charismatic whisky bar one expects. Come to terms with this and you’ll be pleased to find excellent whisky – mostly from the Speyside Spey Distillery – inside dimly-lit pragmatic interiors. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events. Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00. Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub. com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

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NIGHTLIFE guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Foksal XVIII ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00. Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money. Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air. Jerozolima Al. Jerozolimskie 57. Set in a Gotham City tenement this former children’s hospital fills a daytime role as a ‘creative space’ for artists and architects. As evening counts down find numerous club events and music nights taking shape amid the atmospherically lit, half-derelict looking confines. Keep up to speed with what’s on through Facebook. Lemon (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www. cafelemon.pl. A commercial dance basement that’s more beer than Belvedere. Hardly hedonistic, but usually a good mix of people – some who’ve made the effort, others who haven’t. While the club isn’t round-the-clock, the upstairs bar is, and as such find plenty of early morning casualties looking utterly zonked inside a chilled out, lemon yellow interior.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat. Minus ul. Chmielna 9. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00. The design mimics everything you expect from a modern Warsaw club (flashing zips of light, glossy surfaces), but the music sets it apart with a bold dedication to house, deep house and progressive sounds. With numerous international acts lined up to play, as well as a

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

powerful sound system that leaves the teeth rattling, this could yet become a serious party choice. Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Right for Now. Pretty Club” Winner

prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here… Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Sin Club ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

JAZZ

Sztuki & Sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. 22 468 0000, www. sztukisztuczki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-4:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. This vaulted brick cellar has become quite the spot for experimental music sessions and club events. With a labyrinthine layout and rakish crowd S&S has emerged as one of the most talked about venues of 2013.

Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace – and just in time for winter, and all. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open MonFri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you

Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Reviews: D. Bramante 1928 63 / Plus:

* 2 updates

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 64 / FASHION 63 / HOME DECOR 66 / SHOPPING MALLS 66

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the shopping experience with a glass of bubbly.

D. Bramante 1928 ul. Wiejska 17, www.dramanted1928.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ne of the things I love to do is exploring the side streets to see what stores have opened, what’s closed and to look again at what historical remnant of the past still lingers about. Recently, one morning, I was walking down Wiejska and saw this new shop with its beautiful logo winking from the window. I investigated further and was surprised to find all these beautiful artisan leather bags inside. I immediately thought that it might be some Italian store, more so since it was named after Renaissance architect Donato Bramante. I wanted to check out the bags in person, but had to wait until it opened – not a problem, as that gave me the opportunity to eat in Why Thai? just down the street. When we decided to go with the theme of “Made in Poland” for the issue I suggested this shop, reasoning that it might be a good idea to have a place that doesn’t carry Polishonly products. After I got the go-ahead, I discovered that I was half right. Most of the products for your everyday electronic carry (laptop, Kindle, MacBook, iPad, etc.) are designed in Denmark and created in India, while their exclusive line called 376 is made with Italian leather here in Poland by local designer Agnieszka Solomon. While their standard line is beautiful (and I love the idea of something organic and long lasting juxtaposed against something not so long lasting – like the MacBook), I really love their 376 line. My curiosity got the best of me while in the shop and I asked the meaning of 376 – it turns out it’s a combination of lucky numbers and the three business partner’s birthdays. In the line the two that stood out to me were the beautifully crafted goatskin bags (ideal for an elegant sophisticate to stand out on Mokotowska), and the messenger bags that look like long, rectangular, old school mail pouches. The cool thing about the messenger bags is that no two are alike and you can custom order any color combination and even have an initial put on the bag. I would love to give this bag as a gift to my wife, but I need to make sure I don’t “pull a Homer” and put my initials on instead. (KD)

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www.be-eleven.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better

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SHOPPING way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine or an energizing espresso in hand? Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Follow Me ul. Okrąg 1, tel. 669 295 567. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:30; Sat 11:00-15:00. A superb footwear store with Italian import brands such as Mauro Leone. Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. A hip and urban fashion store with sneakers from Vans, Onistuka Tiger and Nike, clothing by Risk. Made in Warsaw, and accessories by the likes of Mighty Wallet, Komono, Candy Crystal and SiS. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690

021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Dada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717, www.galeriadada.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. It’s a bit hard

to define exactly what Dada sells – (from jewellery to lamps, tunics and kitchen appliances) – but one thing is for sure: you won’t find any of it anywhere else. Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3. This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

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SHOPPING Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from uniquehandmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049,

Boudoir 26

ul. Wilcza 11 00-538 Warszawa Tel: 22 400 93 30 info@boudoir26.pl www.boudoir26.pl We are open monday-friday: 11-19 saturday: 11-15

www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Reviews: Fundacja Atelier 67 / Plus:

* 1 update

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 67 / CAFES 68 / EDUCATION 68 / SHOPS 70

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Colourstrings Music School (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www.barwymuzyki.pl. The philosophy is simple: add fun to learning and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, tel./fax 22 826 8813, www.atelier.org.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

rt for me has always been essential for both inspiration and relaxation. Whether I’m photographing it out on the street, deciphering it in museums or standing in front of a blank canvas creating my very own masterpiece art helps me organize my thoughts. When an opportunity arose for my daughter, then 2½ years old, to join a weekly program at Fundacja Atelier it was without hesitation I enrolled her. Today Warsaw is awash with kid friendly cafés offering every activity possible, but five years back this was far from the case. So rather than watch my daughter turn the living room into something resembling a Jackson Pollock painting I opted for a coffee to go and an art lesson held in an eccentric, crumbling squat-like building, stacked high with easels and filled with the pungent scent of oil paint and turps. Here, under the watchful eye of a teacher qualified in fine art (and blessed with outstanding patience to contend with six children under three and their mums), we were able to immerse ourselves into a world of self-expression through art and all its mediums. The Atelier foundation is for all ages, from beginners to the advanced. It offers programs flexible to individual needs and abilities. From history of art lectures to perspective drawing, water colors to oil paint, architectural appreciation to still life compositions, the foundation, with its well-equipped and spacious interior is a great place to develop the skills to realize the artist within. So whilst my hopes for Warsaw ever building a modern art museum have expired, the recent opening of a permanent exhibition at the National Museum dedicated solely to 20th and 21st century art has given me renewed confidence that Warsaw is embracing new talent – and that one day we could be hanging an A. Boelman on the wall. Pablo Picasso once said “Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up”. I agree it is a challenge but parenting is a fine art; it takes all my creative skills to channel her self-expression. (GBB)

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www. teatrlalka.waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

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CHILDREN CAFES Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl. This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a

garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy,

part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl. There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forest-to-city play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color? Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, www.umpa-lumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:0019:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION The French School in Warsaw (Lycée Français de Varsovie, www.lfv.pl) is looking for an English teacher to do supply teaching for short periods during the school year; the pupils are aged between 11 and 18. If you wish to apply, please send your C.V. to: info@lfv.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The English-speaking preschool for children from the international community

22 843 9370 784 037 808

PRESCHOOLS

Now receiving applications for Autumn 2013

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email:

preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 2, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities. Oznaczenie koloru:

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. The program, which is designed for 1½ to 6 year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

Nazwa fontu : HoboEU Normal

C- 0% M - 52 % Y - 98 % K- 0% R - 242 G - 142 B- 0

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30. The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American,

Open House

March 9, 2013

Session 1: 10:00 - 12:00 or Session 2: 13:00 - 15:00 American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna RSVP: admissions@aswarsaw.org

RSVP: admissions@aswarsaw.org facebook.com/warsawinsider

CHILDREN Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw. org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@ canadian-school.pl.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary Ecole Antoine de School Unit Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 Established in 1994, Warsaw Montessori School (G7) 9289, 697 970 244. the Antoine de Saintul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a Exupery preschool and continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 school provides a French sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses year olds. Highly qualified, international curriculum for children two to eight years old on the Montessori curriculum with an staff, challenging materials and a friendly (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming atmosphere provides for an optimal setting family atmosphere. Highly Reklama_Spring Picnic_horz 144 x 67mm_p.pdf 1 qualified 2/11/13native 4:59 PMeducation based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. for the highest standard of education. French-speaking teachers.

CMY

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Reviews: Toastmasters International 71

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 71 / COMMUNITY 75 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 72 / MEDICAL 74 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 75

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. Luxury short and long-term stay accommodation inside stunning Italian furnished apartments in the city center.

Toastmasters International Every Wednesday at 19:00, for membership details see: www.toastmasters.org.pl

arsaw is known to be a dandy town, a place where it’s possible to find activities for every night of the week. But for something a little more alternative, for instance, something that involves having fun as well as a tiny bit of scholastic, personal development, then there is an option that goes beyond visiting the pub: something that simultaneously combines entertainment and training. That’s the local Toastmasters club, aimed at people who want to improve their public speaking skills. Toastmasters Polska, a chapter of the non-profit Toastmasters International, was established 20 years ago, after some US Embassy diplomats made the decision to launch a club here in Warsaw. While the global success story of Toastmasters can be found online, the basic aim of each individual club is to help people be both comfortable and better skilled when talking in public. There are no teachers, and everyone learns from the others in the group; first timers will soon realize that meetings are very much geared towards practice and positive feedback, with lots of impromptu speaking games to make the whole experience fun and simple. Most don’t realize that it may require just a few exercises, some technical tricks and little boost of self-confidence to go from a mediocre speaker (not to use the word ‘lousy’) to a good performer. Toastmasters worldwide has proven to be an excellent place to practice and prepare for just that, and we all know how important it is to get ready for speaking in the real world: be it a business presentation, an interview or preparing a wedding speech - whatever the call is. The meetings are structured but within reason. Speeches are prepared and usually short (up to 7 minutes) and while the subjects aren’t limited in scope, members have a program with guidelines so each speech focuses on different aspects; organization of the speech, body language, use of words, vocal variety, working with visual aids, etc. etc. There’s also a tradition of ‘speech competitions’ at Toastmasters, with one of the categories being ‘most persuasive speech’. Hopefully, this fulfills the criteria – see you at the next meeting? (ES)

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from

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LIFESTYLE approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł. 231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt), www.cluboasis. pl. Includes an 18 meter pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and a gym equipped with the latest digital and variable resistance equipment. Classes include zumba, aqua zumba, power yoga and pilates. Day rate of zł. 100, for longer term deals enquire direct. Fitness Centre (E5) ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), www.sheraton.com/ warsaw. The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Prices from zł. 529 per month to zł. 3,420 for annual membership. Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl. Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct. Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal

trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct. Pure Platinum (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), level 3, www. purepoland.com. The Pure gym offers treadmills, cross trainers, bikes and rowing machines equipped with screens, as well as sauna and personal training. Updated prices were yet to be released at press time, though shouldn’t go much beyond zł. 200 per month. RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www. riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

SPAS & SALONS

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19, ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, 691 782 453, www.bartekjanuszpl. A swanky little spot that will bring your hair back to life and lend it a Victoria’s Secret runway-style twist. B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www. dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00. Different treatments: some

Brought to you by Bosz

THREE OF THE BEST

For several years the Bosz publishing house has specialized in hefty books about Polish art and culture, with the peak of their achievements summed up by this magnificent triumvirate of books.

CHOPIN

An exclusive, exquisitely designed, elegant album with text by Mieczysław Tomaszewski. Featuring an oversized custom format, carefully selected luxurious paper and cloth-bound covers it’s available in both Polish and English and is nothing less than the complete story of Poland’s favorite composer.

FINE POLISH CUISINE. ALL THE FLAVOURS OF THE YEAR.

This unique book has been compiled under the special patronage of Poland’s First Lady, Anna Komorowska. The beautifully illustrated cookbook features recipes from Poland’s most celebrated chefs, including Wojciech Modest Amaro, Karol Okrasa and Paweł Oszczyk as well as recipes from the First Lady herself.

STARÓWKI. ARCYDZIEŁA ARCHITEKTURY I URBANISTYKI

This luxury, beautifully designed album presents 31 of Poland’s finest historic towns and cities through the sophisticated lens of Zbigniew and Waldemar Panów. The stunning photography is complimented by Polish language texts covering the story of the town’s history and architecture.

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LIFESTYLE relaxing, some energizing, some both! The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into state-of-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results. Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products. Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages Similan ul. Wiertnicza 120, tel. 22 858 16 48, www. similan.pl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00. Allow the stresses of everyday city life to evaporate at Similan; the Thai massages are relaxing, detoxifying and stimulating.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl. Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

of Internal Medicine, and a graduate of a USA Medical Residency (Harrisburg Hospital, PA). Experience with seasonal infections, diabetes, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, asthma, pneumonia, vein thrombosis, hypertension, GERD, anemia, hyperlipidemia, atrial fibrillation and other adult diseases. Can also arrange consultations with American specialists. Visit www.warsawphysician.eu or call +48 607 300 545 to arrange an appointment/ house call. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com. English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress World Leader in Implantology and besides. and much more Dental Aesthetics

WARSAW

Malo Clinic (C4) Rondo ONZ 1, tel. 22 335 7755, www.maloclinics.com/ polska. This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-theServices Available artMALO diagnostic center. CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery. Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at Rondo ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street.

the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomography), in the field of:

Conservative Dentistry Dental SurgeryPractice Medical Łukasz Kiljanek Endodontics Implantology Prosthetics Orthodontics A Aesthetic physician certified by the American Board

Wilanow Family Practice ul. Kosiarzy 37/90, tel. 22 642 7404 / 602 268 826, www.wilanowfamilypractice.pl. Open Mon-Weds & Fri 12:30-19:00; Sat 9:0012:00. Highly recommended by all, book a visit to English-speaking Dr. Andrzej Gajer for consultations, medical evaluations and minor surgical procedures. Appointments outside of the above-mentioned times are available on request.

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS Tailor-made INDIVIDUAL and MINIGROUP courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

tel. 664 788 004 info@klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

and weekend courses.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 792 887 350, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners - individuals and groups. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free. Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailormade packages inc. both intensive

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices either in small groups or private classes. Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, www.schola.pl. Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

International Christian Fellowship & International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

COMMUNITY Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350 www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence

WARSAW

and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery. Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at Rondo ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street. Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomography), in the field of: Dental Surgery Implantology Aesthetic Prosthetics

Conservative Dentistry Endodontics Orthodontics

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

84 Wa rINSIDER s a w I n s| MARCH i d e r : 0 12013 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 76 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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WARSAW INTERNATIONS Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’ and connect ex-pats from all walks of life. Covering 300 cities since first forming five years back, the InterNations group has become one of the most successful networking events of the ex-pat calendar. • Monthly Mixers • Online Forums • Guides & City Info For news on the Warsaw chapter, how to join and what events are coming up, find out more about us at: www.internations.org

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW? but for contemporary free jazz and improvised music, in a bar, then it would have to be Pardon To Tu. For great sound quality and a reverent atmosphere it’s Laboratorioum at CSW, and for small rock gigs, Powiększenie. I don’t much like Palladium or Torwar, but at least they provide a decent space for mid-sized bands to play. Warsaw has plenty of gig space, the problem is the lack of imagination of some promoters. What makes sax so cool? Who said it was cool, I always wanted to be a guitarist! What’s the best gig you’ve played? Some of the best gigs often happen when not expected. The larger ‘hyped’ gigs sometimes suffer from too much pressure. So my best gigs have often been more what I term “throw away”. Not to demean them in status, it’s just I don’t think about them too much beforehand – then, often, something magical happens. Having said that, the Bluebird Theatre Denver Colorado with Spiritualized was a standout gig where the instruments seemed to play themselves and the music flowed. Headlining the second stage at Glastonbury was quite special because it seemed like a validation for all the hard work we had put in as a band.

A former member of Spiritualized, exiled Brit and full time sax king Ray Dickaty has played some of the biggest stages out there. The Insider catches up for a natter.

Ray Dickaty arrives in Poland for the first time – what happens next... Well, to be honest, I visited Poland a few times before finally making the move to live here and was fortunate enough to visit some nice places and feel the energy and the sense of ‘can do’, so it wasn’t so much a shock when I finally settled. I had played some shows, met some people, and got used to Soviet era apartment block living. Of course, the shock of the language is a major one: where are the vowels? Best (and worst) band name you’ve heard? There are so many good ones but The Stooges I like and pretty much sums up the nature of the band. The worst, probably, is Bum Gravy – yes that was a real band playing the mid-90’s London pub circuit. Favorite gig space here? That really depends on the music being played,

WARSAW INSIDER | MARCH 2013

Any diva behavior to report? Lollapalooza had its share of shocking behavior. Having arrived in a no-name dust bowl town, we proceeded to follow the circus across the mid-west. Arriving at one site the drummer and myself realized that the grounds incorporated a lake and it may be refreshing to relax by it whilst waiting to play. Settling down with a couple of beers we were rudely awoken from our revelry by black clad beefcakes in the form of Metallica’s personal army and informed that we had no right to sit by the lake as Metallica wished to jet ski on it. Now considering this was a rather a large lake it did and does seem quite ludicrous. I have disliked Metallica intensely ever since. Oh, and seeing Lars the drummer’s personal towel bearer being berated for providing the wrong colored towels or whatever also scores on my dislike list. What is the future of Warsaw? Well, I hope that Warsaw does not become another Americanised European city and retains its sense of being a European capital with a thriving and encouraged cultural sense. I would also hope that it does not, like London did, become far too expensive and prices out its artists/poets/ philosophers/writers and musicians. For more on Ray, and where to catch him, check: www.raydickaty.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY PIOTR LEWANDOWSKI, WWW.POPUPMUSIC.PL

SAX & THE CITY

You’ve played on the Lollapalooza tour! It was great fun hanging out on the third indie stage (ie. the back of a truck). We were far enough away from the corporate rock monsters to be taken no notice of by the festival goers and were pretty much left to our own devices. We simultaneously played gigs in small towns on our days off with great help from an underground network of cool bands, so I have many fond memories.

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