Features:
Magnifico! Praga’s latest mural – p. 3
Snow Patrol: Warsaw’s winter wonders – p. 10
Art of Giving: ceramics, scents, and more – p. 22
Lost & Found: priceless violin returns? p. 8
Exhibitionism: what to see this December – p. 64
What to Watch: season’s hits – p. 80
Taproom Wilanów – p. 35
Foodie News – p. 36
Tonka – p. 38
La Luce – p. 40 Delhi 6 – p. 42
Ice skating – p. 63
What to do in December – p. 65
Contemporary art galleries – p. 66
TRADITIONAL AS IT IS to use this editorial space to finish the year on a jaunty note, current events have made that a challenge. If we thought preceding years had been, ahem, a trifle difficult, then 2022 has proved the biggest beast to date. But there has been a silver lining, and it takes a flinty heart not to be profoundly moved by Poland’s heartening response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine next door. When the hour came, this nation stood up to the plate.
Yet despite the grim economic outlook and the ongoing tragedy playing out to our East, Warsaw has continued to cope as well as it can – a natural reaction given the city’s own tricky past. With that in mind, we’ve (half-heartedly) donned our elf outfit to bring you an issue sprinkled with festive nuggets and seasonal suggestions. It’s not been a perfect year, so at least let’s make Christmas as perfect as it can be. Enjoy the issue, and have a happier new year.
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.plFor our cover – and our Christmas features within – credit falls to Karolina Sabik. “Photography has always been a big part of my life but at some point it became my passion,” she tells us. “Since then I look at the world in frames. I see them everywhere. Most of the time I photograph with my DSLR but I think the best camera is always the one you have at hand when the magic happens. I love to show the world as I see it, through a lens. Sometimes that’s in cities, sometimes in nature and sometimes I look for that magic in people.” For more, see instagram @karolka_sab or search FB for Karolina Sabik Photography.
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Lauded in some quarters as the most spectacular mural that Warsaw has ever seen, a work by the Welsh street artist Phlegm has captivated the public after debuting on Stalowa 27 earlier in November. Taking 120-hours to execute, the XL project has been made all the more remarkable by its back story – arriving to the Polish capital, the secretive artist had initially intended to paint something entirely different but was prompted to change his mind after coming face-to-face with the wall in question.
Pondering his canvas, the acclaimed artist instead chose to abandon his original idea and revert instead to another work that was still in progress. Classing it as his most complex work to date, the artist used Instagram to jokingly admit that the piece had nearly killed him. Working from dawn till dusk, his labors, however, have yielded widespread approval.
Featuring two principal characters, the absorbing mural is riddled with fantastical details stacked onto each other. Complex and mystifying, the intricate masterpiece is almost Kafka-esque in its vision depicting as it does downtrodden minions tugging wheels and pulleys, smoking chimney stacks, spiralling stairwells and planets and stars hanging by threads from mechanical platforms.
Featuring also a host of bewildered creatures, ‘Civilization’ as it has been titled is dark, dream-like and gloriously powerful. Implemented as part of the latest installment of the Street Art Doping festival, it marks a triumphant return for
Phlegm – previously visiting Warsaw in 2013, that time the artist painted ‘Castle’, a mural so loved by locals that a committee was formed to save it when it was announced that the building it adorned would be demolished.
Sadly, it fell victim to the
wrecking ball in 2016, and only now can residents again admire the outrageous talent of this maverick artist. Bearing shades of Hieronymus Bosch, the work has also again cast a spotlight on Praga and affirmed its reputation as the cradle of Warsaw street art.
Seen as the crown jewel of Poland’s sporting facilities, the National Stadium has been closed after a construction defect was discovered in its supposedly state-of-the-art roof. Costing nearly PLN 2 billion when it opened ten-years back, the arena was used as one of the host venues for Euro 2012 and has since become the de facto home of the Polish football team. In what some have seen as a dark omen for the World Cup, the closure impacted the national side who had been due to play a final friendly here against Chile in mid-November before jetting off to Qatar.
Plans for two new skyscrapers that will take root on the site of the Atrium International office complex have been revealed by Strabag Real Estate. Designed by architects from the Medusa Group, the project will include one 34-storey tower that will peak out at 131.5-meters, and a smaller sister that will reach 17-storeys. Together, the duo will offer 47,000 sq/m of space. Titled Upper One, the taller skyscraper will be given over to offices, whilst the lower one will most likely serve as a hotel. Set to be completed in 2026, the investment will replace Atrium, an iconic piece of 1990s real estate that was once considered as symbolic of Warsaw’s free market shift.
Stolen at the end of the war as the Nazis fled Warsaw, a rare Stradivarius violin has been traced to Paris…
Reputed to have been personally made by Antonio Stradivari in 1719, the so-called Lauterbach Stradivarius derives its name from one of its previous owners, the 19th century German virtuoso Johann Christoph Lauterbach. With only a handful of owners to its name, the instrument is thought to have previously belonged to Charles Philippe Lafont (who played the violoin for the court of Tsar Alexander I) and the legendary Paris-based luthier Jean-Baptiste Vuillaume.
It was supposedly when Vuillaume was on his deathbed that the Stradivarius was sold to Lauterbach, and he kept it in his possession for 25-years before it was purchased by the Łódź textile tycoon Henryk Grohman. A collector of priceless musical artefacts, Grohman’s other fanciful objects included a Guarneri violin from 1734.
Known for his charitable benevolence, Grohman donated his entire estate to the government when he died, with the National Museum in Warsaw being given the violin. Carefully hidden behind a wall in the museum’s chapel, great pains were taken to ensure it did not fall into Nazi hands, however, these efforts proved in vain. Vanishing
at some time during the German withdrawal, it was discovered four-years later by an American officer inside the home of SS Major Theodor Blank.
The story should have ended here with the violin restored to its rightful owner, but instead it disappeared again despite a note being found saying that it had been sent to the town of Hesse to await restitution.
But in an extraordinary twist, Autumn brought with it news that a Frenchman specializing in the recovery of instruments stolen by the Nazis had tracked it down to Paris. Broken by Le Parisien, the French daily reported that Pascale Bernheim and his colleague, Corinne Hershkovitch, had verified its authenticity and were now working with the National Museum in Warsaw to determine its legal status.
Valued at EUR 10 million, it’s believed that descendants of the Grohman clan could claim it as their property as, according to Hershkovitch, paperwork has been found showing that Henryk Grohman had only ever loaned the violin to the museum on a temporary basis. However, recent amendments to laws regarding restitution mean that this case is likely to rattle on for a considerable time to come.
fritz-kola is not just a product, but above all an attitude. Our brand stands for independence, tolerance and diversity and shows that social responsibility and fun are not contradictory concepts.
Based on the desire for independence and a free-spirited, bold idea of doing something better, our company was founded in 2002 by two students in Hamburg: Mirco Wolf Wiegert and Lorenz Hampl. One evening
in the kitchen, over frozen pizza and cola, they came up with the idea of developing a kola that was better than the market leader. A kola with more caffeine, a little less sweetness, a hint of citrus and a clear attitude.
In order to cover the project’s capital requirements, Mirco and Lorenz founded the firm fritz-kola with about EUR 7,000. After some tinkering to find the perfect recipe, the first fritz-kola was launched in 2003. Since there
was not enough money to develop a professional logo, the two simply printed their own faces on the bottles – pragmatic, but successful.
In the years that followed, other kola variants were developed as well as a number of lemonades and spritzers. This simple idea has now grown into a company with over 300 fritzees (employees) from six different nations. For the sake of enjoyment and the environment, we have relied on returnable glass bottles since our founding and have been steadily expanding ideas of decentralized bottling.
As an indie brand, we are an independent and owner-managed Hamburg-based company that has developed not only from a start-up to a medium-sized company, but also into the market leader in the craft kola segment.
From brand’s founding, our craft-kola with a ‘k’ has been waking up the whole of Germany and consequently Europe, to become a true cultural asset appealing to those with no desire for mass-produced good, but rather a desire for commitment, responsibility and a lot of fun.
Our portfolio now consists of thirteen products in a total of four different categories (fritz-kola, fritz-limo, fritz-spritz and anjola), many of which are known not only within Germany but also throughout Europe. But the true roots of fritz-kola have always been our kola product line.
For more, see: fritz-kola.com
The ‘k’ in kola is not just a letter, but symbolic of everything that we at fritz-kola do differently…
From quiet secluded corners to legendary lights and imperial parks, Poland’s capital offers a rich bounty of locations that come into their element once the first frosts form…
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAROLINA SABIKOnce the melting pot of Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski was where Russian, Polish and Jewish life came together as one during Warsaw’s pre-war days. An important center of trade, visiting in the 19th century would have resulted in hearing a babble of European languages. At a time when inter-community relations weren’t always the cordial, this area felt universal. It was a place to meet, work, live and worship.
Traces of the latter survive, most notably in the shape of the All Saints’ Church at the bottom end of the square. Completed in 1893, its breath taking interiors are festooned with Catholic bling. Said to hold 3,500, its capacity was tested to the max when Pope John Paul II and Mother Teresa visited in 1987. With a lower profile, a honey-coloured synagogue lies to the west of the square, accessible via a couple of tight, twisty turns through back-alley carparks. As hard to find as it is, this synagogue – the only one in the capital to survive the Nazis – has been central to the community’s cultural rebirth.
These landmarks lend a solemnity to the area that is offset by a beautifully redesigned central plaza; in summer, its shaded greenery and burbling water features attract scores of lunching workers from the nearby towers. Frozen still in winter, it’s a place of peace in the busy city center.
After: after head down gorgeously restored prewar Próżna and stop into Coffee Desk for a cup of you-know-what, or check into Kieliszki Na Próżnej for classic wines and a modern Polish menu.
Warsaw hasn’t always cared for its river, in fact, if you go back to the beginning of the millennium there was a time when it felt that, if anything, it was regarded as an inconvenient blot that should be bypassed at all costs. Zip forward two decades and the reality could not be any more different. Reabsorbed into the very fabric of the city, credit for that goes to the previous mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz, who made the renovation of the left bank her personal crusade. To this day, her legacy stands, and the far-reaching importance of the river’s revival was underlined when, a few years back, the Guardian namechecked it as having one of the best ‘riverside scenes’ in Europe.
Of course, this was a direct reference to its summer guise, and more specifically, its reinvention as a social and cultural hub – when temperatures peak, nowhere else compares in the city in terms of numbers: descending en masse to form an undulating torrent of noise, the energy of the boulevards can’t be beat. However, for many, it is in winter when the riverbank shows its most authentic and atmospheric face. Lacking the summer crowds, the icy solitude offered by the boulevards is given an added sense of drama by the ice floes that glide silently down the river. This picture of quiet serenity increases on the other side of the bank, where the tangled pathways have been left largely untouched by man to form a wild, frosty mass of knotted vegetation.
After: reheat yourself in the Copernicus Science Center, or by taking a cultural time out in the
Museum on the Vistula, the award-winning branch of Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art. For something liquid, the attached Paloma nad Wisłą restobar has no shortage of inventive cocktails.
Established as one of Poland’s biggest dazzles, the Garden of Light in the spectacular royal gardens of Wilanów Palace is both beguiling and bewitching with its illuminated trails taking visitors journeying past shimmering oddities and fantastical installations whilst classical tunes are piped in the background.
Lined up as part of this year’s attractions, ready yourself for a 75-meter long ‘tunnel of light’, an illuminated pergola adorned with leaves of vines, lemons, laurel and gooseberries, a labyrinth adorned with mythological figures, and luminous compositions alluding to the life of Jan III Sobieski – love, war, diplomacy and of course his coronation.
In all, around 300,000 pulsating diodes have been used to make this magic happen, but it is mother nature that should be credited for the greatest show of all: there is no bad time to visit, but there is a best, and that’s when the snows gently fall. When they do, you’re left with a mashup of Alice in Wonderland meets The Chronicles of Narnia. For tickets, see: ticket.wilanow-palac.pl
After: cross Wilanów’s iconic ‘bridge of hearts’ (an itsy little bridge groaning under the weight of the lovelocks clasped to its rails) for an evening tipple at The Beer Store, an ever jovial pub with an exhaustive selection of niche European booze.
“Lacking the summer crowds, the icy solitude offered by the boulevards is given an added sense of drama by the ice floes that glide silently down the river
For romance, pomp and timeless class, Łazienki cannot be touched. Founded in the 17th century, the touch of Poland’s last King, and his architect, Domenico Merlini, are in abundant evidence: the sumptuous ‘white house’, the sweeping Palace on the Water, and the Greco-Roman follies that appear around the corners. And later additions, such as the Japanese Garden, the Chopin monument and New Orangery – which once housed Europe’s largest collection of tropical plants – aren’t too bad either.
Spellbinding is one word, and that sense of fairy tale fancy is given further emphasis by the peacocks that strut nonchalantly around while fanning their feathers. So well-practiced are they, you almost suspect they’re actually paid extras. Culturally-speaking, no visit is complete without popping into one of the museums for a dose of fine art set to palatial surrounds.
Then, as dusk falls, walk down Agrykola, a gently sloping street flanked by 19th century gas lamps that cast halos of light on the pavement below before visiting the Botanical Gardens run by the University of Warsaw – this winter, find it transformed courtesy of dozens of illuminated animals and plants. For tickets, see: lumagica.pl
After: cut through the so-called Finnish Houses around ul. Jazdów, a bucolic estate of wooden chalets ‘donated’ by the Finns as war reparations. Continue through this charming inner city secret and you’ll soon find yourself close to Koszykowa street, and on it, Regina, a super-hip bar with a Boogie Nights vibe and flirty, crazy cocktails.
“For romance, pomp and timeless class, Łazienki cannot be touched...
Lying between Nowy Świat high street and the Royal Castle, Krakowskie Przedmieśćie is the final link on the Royal Route – thick with lights and seasonal attractions, it’s here that history combines with the spirit of Christmas to make for an essential December walk…
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAROLINA SABIK
Once the site of a 17th century Orthodox chapel (and reputedly haunted by a priest that shot himself at the alter in 1818), the Staszic Palace was built in 1823 and has long-served as the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences. For this reason, find a monument dedicated to the astronomer Nicolas Copernicus right outside. Eight years in the making, it was designed by the Dane Bertel Thorvaldsen and finally revealed in 1830. Spirited away to be smelted by the Nazis in 1944, the statue was discovered in tact in Nysa and reinstalled in 1949.
Reputedly one of the favorite churches of King Stanisław II Augustus, the Church of the Holy Cross is more famed for its associations with Chopin. As per his dying wish, the composer’s heart was smuggled back to Warsaw after he died in France. Preserved in a crystal jar filled with cognac, the grisly relic was then encased inside one of the church’s columns. Surviving the Warsaw Uprising after it was reputedly hidden in the town of Milanowek, the heart was returned to the church after the war only to be briefly exhumed in 2014 in a secret ceremony undertaken to assess its general state. Swiftly reinterred thereafter, its next check-up has been scheduled for 2064.
Established in 1809, Poland’s biggest university has been a springboard for many of the nation’s biggest heroes: Ludwik Zamenhof (inventor of
Esperanto), Nobel-prize winner Olga Tokarczyk, wartime legend Jan Karski, poet Julian Tuwim and scores of politicians and leading intellectuals. Entering via the main gate at Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, you get a sense of this history walking around the palaces that comprise the main campus. A patchwork of manicured lawns and Neo Classical buildings, this grid of grand buildings is stunning under snow.
Welcoming its first guest on November 19th, 1901 (a Parisian lady by the name of Emilia Finot), the hotel was so ground-breaking that it hired an elevator attendant specifically to ensure that excited guests wouldn’t faint at the site of the crystal lift. Once the HQ and residence of the Prime Minister and composer Ignacy Jan Paderewski, the Bristol has never been far from Warsaw’s biggest moments. With Paderewski chairing his first government meeting here, you could even say the hotel was the birthplace of the modern Polish democratic state. Re-opened by Margaret Thatcher in 1993, its hosted pretty much every big name you could think of: Bill Gates, JFK, Paul McCartney, Picasso, and so forth. Consider that over drinks inside the beautifully appointed Lane’s Gin Bar.
Owing its neo-classical look to a 19th century remodeling overseen by Piotr Aigner, the Presidential Palace left Herman Goering so impressed that he was late for a meeting with Poland’s foreign minister. Witness to major global events, it was here that the Warsaw
Pact was signed in 1955 to counter the establishment of NATO. Its most prominent feature though is the statue of Prince Poniatowski outside, the visionary monarch that oversaw the adoption of Europe’s first constitution. Moved several times, the original statue scandalized the Warsaw public when it premiered in front of Saski Palace in 1923. Instead of presenting Poniatowski as a noble, knightly figure, the Danish sculptor instead imagined him as a half-naked Roman.
Originally opened in 1857, Henryk’s Marconi’s Neo-Renaissance design for the Europejski was complemented by lavish interior touches by his son, Karol, and his nephew, Ferrante. Impressing from its inception, people traveled from far and wide to enjoy the cooking of Józef Wysakowski, the former chef to Spain’s Queen Isabel. Famed for its lavish New Year’s Eve parties, not even Communism could sully its reputation: the Rolling Stones kipped here, and so too did Willy Brandy and Marlene Dietrich (who moved out swiftly after her suite proved too small for her array of bulky travel trunks). Spectacularly restored by the luxury Raffles brand, it’s well worth stopping in for a signature Sling cocktail.
Adam Mickiewicz, the great bard of Poland, is celebrated by way of a striking 4.2-meter monument that was sculpted by Cyprian Godebski in Italy before being transported to Warsaw where it was unveiled on December 24th, 1898 – the one hundredth anniversary of the poet’s birth. Premiering in front of a crowd
of 12,000, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis in 1944 –later, Mickiewicz’s head was discovered intact in Hamburg along with other body parts that were only returned in the 1980s. The faithful copy you see was produced in 1950. Look closely, and you’ll see wartime bullet marks on the fence that separates the statue from the pavement.
Having squeaked through the war with just token flesh wounds, the baroque St. Anne’s Church came within a whisker of tumbling down entirely after the post-war construction of the W-Z tunnel rendered the surrounding ground unstable – only roundthe-clock work by a team of 400 engineers saved the whole thing from crash downing. As magnificent as the fresco-filled might be, it’s the adjoining bell tower that makes the biggest impact: open until 6 p.m., puff your way up the 147 stairs to enjoy the city’s most picturesque viewing platform.
The view we speak of above is delicious. As if almost in touching distance, the Royal Castle – rebuilt only in the 1980s – stands directly in front, as does Zygmunt’s Column. First erected in 1664 to honor Zygmunt III Vasa’s decision to shift the capital from Kraków to Warsaw, the 22-meter column was felled in 1944 by a single artillery round and reconstructed in 1949 (the original lies to the side of the castle). But in between these two landmarks, find the season’s principal point of interest: a 27-meter tall Christmas tree that’ll officially be lit in early December.
In their short existence, MUAS Ceramics have become one of Waraw’s hottest brands – we join the team to find out why…
How did MUAS come about?
The story began five-years back – not wanting to tie her life permanently to architecture, Kati went to a ceramics workshop and fell in love with clay straight away. After that, it was all about finding her own style and perfecting her craft. Two-years later, she was joined by Czarny who left his job in a sound studio to become part of MUAS.
Everything – and I mean that in the most literal of senses. Sometimes it’s a film, other times a flash of light or a falling leaf. Mostly though, inspiration comes from the clay itself.
MUAS has quite a specific color palette… There’s no magic to reveal, we just strive to realize what we have in our heads. Kati loves colors and knows quite clearly what she wants to achieve, but the glazing process is often a trial-and-error procedure. Occasionally though, we happen
upon a color as a one-time experiment or an unintended effect and like it so much that it ends up in our collection.
Your ceramics are a fave of both Insta and Warsaw’s ontrend eateries. Why has the city fallen in love with MUAS! It helps that we live here so we can drive up to a restaurant and talk about our projects face-to-face. But we also love going out to restaurants and have always enjoyed sharing good culinary spots on our profile. That said, we can’t say for sure. Maybe restaurant owners have just twigged that the way they serve a dish is as important as the taste – who knows!
Behind closed doors though, a lot of people are content with mass-produced items. Can this mindset change? Yes – by buying our dishes! Seriously, the problem lies in perception. Many people just think of ceramics as an item. For many, a plate is a plate.
For us though, it’s an applied art. Further, it’s good to be surrounded by pretty things, and even better when they’re unique. Coffee in a mug that has been made using artisanal practices tastes different than coffee in something that’s mass-produced.
What is the mood of MUAS? We’re calm and optimistic, but the brand also reflects the dark and sexy demons inside of us that are still fighting to come to the surface.
Finally, what do you attribute your success to?
Hard work, dedication, more work and sacrifices. We work several hours a day in the studio and at home. For years, practically every day has involved long hours. Most importantly, we have a strong belief in ourselves and what we do. You’ll never win a race if you think that you don’t stand a chance.
MUAS Ceramics
Dolna 30A, muas.pl
Known as Poland’s primary source for boutique, bespoke scents, the team at Mo61 Perfume Lab reveal the secrets of their scents…
Forget the World Cup, to blend in locally you’ll need some Legia colors in your wardrobe…
What’s Christmas without a lairy jumper adorned with a pair of cavorting reindeers? Add in the iconic badge of Legia Warszawa and you have yourself the perfect pullover for Xmas spent in Warsaw. Ideal for one of those lazy late mornings or an evening spent fire-side, it’ll feel all the better with a steaming mug of something tasty –and yes, mulled wine counts. For more gift ideas for the football fanatic, pay a visit to Legia’s megastore at Łazienkowska 3, or visit: sklep.legia.com.
Most of us are happy with a good quality scent from a mall-bought emporium – what do you say to that!
Your scent is an extension of your identity –with that in mind, do you want an identity that can be bought off-the-shelf?
Ok, you win! So… what scents should we be wearing this winter?
When it gets chilly we tend to lean towards ‘blankets’ in every form. Think cozy, velvety, earthy and spicy. Gourmand scents (the delicious ones) have their moment and anything vanilla will make people lose their marbles!
As much as we love people to stand out, have mercy on your colleagues. Everyone experiences scent uniquely so remember that the gorgeous, edgy juice that you splurged on is capable of suffocating others. Save it for date night and instead go for gentle woods, fresh florals and botanicals, molecules and white musk – you won’t be sorry, and neither will others.
How about a big night out – what do you recommend?
That’s the occasion to mark your territory. A night out calls for something that adds a layer of confidence and makes you feel like the principal character. In this regard, all things spicy, smoky, leathery and resinous will work. If you’re feeling flirty, try hypnotic white florals like jasmine, ylang-ylang or tuberose.
Opinions differ, so what do you say is the optimal way to apply a scent?
Warm, hairy, oily and dynamic spots are the ones to go for – the back of your neck, your chest, or the inside of your elbows. And in the summer, behind your knees like the French do. Most importantly, moisturize your skin.
Different scents suit different people – how do you know when you’ve got it right?
We really, really do not like to generalize. But you know that feeling you get when you taste something that’s great? Or when you meet with someone and click? You’ll get the same feeling with the right perfume – like meeting your soulmate, you’ll just know straight away.
Mo61 Perfume Lab
Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl
Minimalist but breathtaking in their beauty, UMIAR’s jewelry has placed Warsaw’s fashionista on a state of high alert. Co-founders Magdalena and Malwina explain just why…
How would you define the UMIAR look?
We go for original and balanced forms: effective lines, harmonious proportions and clean, minimalist details. That’s UMIAR. We want those that wear our designs to think that they’re strong, intelligent, beautiful – that they’re enough.
Do you have any favorite materials to play with?
We create our jewelry exclusively from silver and gold. Why? Because they are beautiful, timeless, malleable metals. They can be melted and re-melted over and over again, and can therefore be endlessly used for new projects.
Do you have a golden rule when it comes to design?
We look for ‘strength, utility and beauty’. Although that is an architectural golden trinity, we draw from it in its fullest. Sculpture on a large scale makes a building; in miniature, it’s jewelry. Design has a rational side, but it’s also an expression of emotion. We don’t do anything that we don’t ‘feel’.
How would you advise someone buying jewelry for a loved one?
There’s three steps: look at the ears, hands and neck of the recipient, and then peek into their jewelry box. What kind of jewelry do you see there? Secondly, ask their friends. Third, trust in original yet classic designs – these pair with any style and feel timeless.
Mokotowska 50, umiar.pl
An amalgam of ‘unique clothing’, the Uniqlo clothing label has finally found its way to Warsaw courtesy to a pop-up in Wars Sawa Junior. “Shirts, jumpers and jeans aren’t just basics,” say the brand, “they live with us as part of our daily lives – we believe that such essential items can be made even better.”
Founded in Japan, Uniqlo have forged a name for their ‘LifeWear’, apparel created from their Japanese values of simplicity, high quality and longevity. Placing an equal emphasis on affordability, their Warsaw venture is already conquering the market with their lightweight ‘heattech items’, fleeces and down outerwear.
For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…
Keep your eyes peeled for updates for Elektrownia have history when it comes to hosting weekend ‘slow markets’ dedicated to artisanal design and lifestyle brands – perfect for a thoughtful gift
ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
A former power plant, this remarkable regeneration project has kept hold of many industrial keepsakes such as the panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture. A wonder to explore, highlights include a retail offer angled towards hip Polish design firms as well as international brands otherwise unseen in Poland. Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca and ably supported by standalone restaurant projects such as the Blue Cactus.
ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl
Occupying a revamped 19th century, the Browary complex feels more like a district within a district with its revitalized historic buildings rubbing alongside upmarket new build. The food hall is the most premium in its category, and next to it is their flagship brewpub. Christmas plans were being kept secret as we hit the print button, so check out website for updates as they come.
ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl
For imaginative gifts this Christmas, Norblin’s Plater building and historic streets come lined with showrooms selling jewelry, cosmetics, home decorations, kitchenware, electronics, beautiful stationary, cosmetics, herbal products and seasonal best-sellers such as alcohols and festive wreaths. Moreover, vouchers can be bought the KingoGram cinema, the ArtBox Experience, the Norblin Factory Museum and Apple Museum, not to mention for the optical and hairdressing salons.
Poland’s largest food hall will again open New Year’s Eve to provide seating for 1,000 people and a choice from 23 culinary concepts and five bars. This large-scale project has not overlooked the beverage segment either and is home to five bars. To keep the party jumping, there’ll be a live stave with music concerts and a silent disco stage. Promising “the loudest and best show in the city”, we’re told that there’ll also be a dedicated cocktail and food offer. For details, check their social media streams @foodtown.pl.
There’s nothing like visiting the cinema on New Year’s Eve – breaking from the norms, KinoGram offers a non-standard experience all year round. But on the last night of the year, bathe in the warm luminescence of the silver screen and allow yourself to be transported to a different world.
Two pre-premiere movies are confirmed for this glittering night, the first, Shotgun Wedding, is a hilarious, adrenaline-fueled adventure comedy starring Jennifer Lopez as Darcy and Tom Josh as Duhamel who
gather their lovable but very opinionated families for the ultimate destination wedding. Next up, Ruben Östlund’s satirical black comedy, Triangle of Sadness, # starring Harris Dickinson, Charlbi Dean and Woody Harrelson. It’s the twotime Palme d’Or winner movie described as a glossy satire on
the ultra-wealthy.
Adding to the enjoyment, treat yourself to freshly popped truffle popcorn and cocktails from the KinoGram bar as fixed by Tomasz Malek (a four-time world champion ‘flair bartender) and his team. For further details, see: kinogram.pl or look them up on IG and FB.
First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a trend that would grow nationwide. From humble beginnings when 30 traders were talked into setting up stalls within the disintegrating confines of the Norblin Factory, the BioBazar rapidly grew into a phenomenon. Temporarily moving to Mokotów whilst Norblin underwent redevelopment, the return to their spiritual home was always going to be one of the big sells of this post-industrial complex, and so it has proved.
“Moving back was a fantastic experience for us and we’re glad we’ve shown how fantastic Norblin’s rebirth has been,” says BioBazar’s Joanna Żuchlińska. “It’s also been a challenge as we’re now open five days per week which is a big change for us.” That they’ve slotted easily into this new rhythm can’t be disputed. Home to approximately 60 vendors inside a gorgeously renovated brick hall, find the overwhelming majority boasting an ECO certificate. Comprehensive in their selection, the largely organic choice includes “honest dairy from naturally
fed animals”, fresh fish from small, sustainable farms and organic meats such as veal, beef, lamb and venison. Fruit and veg is also a forte and includes frozen summer fruits that retain every bit of their taste.
Touting an authentic rustic quality, these goods are supplemented by an exhaustive range of oils, preserves, pickles, cold-pressed juices, herbal drinks and freshly-baked bread. Stocking all you need for your Christmas pantry, neither have they ignored the realities of 21st century living – thematic boxes filled with artisanal produce are also available for those ordering online. Furthermore, swing by in December for handmade decorations, a less-waste DIY event on the 10th, special offers, healthy home cooking workshops held with Saladmaster and warming bites such as hot dogs, scrambled eggs with Mangalica lard, vegan soups and much, much more.
BioBazar ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory), biobazar.org.pl
One of the cornerstones of Norblin Factory, look no further than the BioBazar when stocking up the larder ahead of the holiday season…
Pl. Konesera 2, koneser.eu
Set in the revitalized space of a former vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. Highlights number the Polish Vodka Museum and the upmarket Koneser Grill.
Koneser will again be active in December offering a far-reaching schedule of fairs and events aimed at all ages. For the first weekend of the month, that means a vinyl market, a gingerbread workshop for kids, a fair featuring handmade goods and Asia Con, an event touting martial arts displays, cosplay, K-Pop concerts, and cooking classes.
December 10th and 11th, meanwhile, will see a pet fair and an art market showcasing the works of upcoming talents from the Academy of Fine Arts – the price to quality ratio will amaze. Notably, the same weekend will also see a Christmas Market with toys, Polish design products, a beauty zone and pet-minded gifts.
The culmination of Koneser’s Christmas lead-up will take place on the 17th and 18th and will include a grotto where kids can meet Santa (he exists!), a handicraft fair, toy repair workshops, and plenty of last minute gift suggestions.
Gwardii will come into its element in December hosting a plant fair (Dec 2nd to 4th), their traditional cat and dog market (9th to 11th) and their epic Christmas market running from the 16th to the 23rd.
Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl
For many, this is the most ‘authentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, something rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsarist-era structure. Split between an artisanal farmers’ market and a lively selection of street food points, added fun is lent by the Niewinność wine bar, the cult San Escobar and the pocket-size Piwna Gwardii craft beer joint.
ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com
Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed Warsaw’s gastro scene and continues to be seen as the benchmark when it comes to such culinary concepts. As ever, we’re expecting an outdoor Xmas market and a NYE party to remember!
Wilanów’s craft scene gets a boost…
Taproom
Rzeczypospolitej 4, fb.com/taproom.wilanow
The Taproom Wilanów could easily be described as a craft beer bar though we know other locals who refer to it as a store; the truth is a merger of the two. Placed towards the edge of Wilanów’s modern apartment stock, and handily positioned if you’re celebrating being discharged from Medicover’s hospital (or, likewise, if you’ve been left flummoxed by the giant lemon squeezer that is the Temple of Divine Providence), this venue greets you on entry with a counter filled with air-dried snacks (including a motherlode from Ukraine) and, just beyond, a bank of seventeen beer taps that all but beg for your order.
Encased with floor-to-ceiling windows, the opening deli section gives way to present a small section of seating running down the side, and it’s here you head having picked from the beers on tap or lined up in the fridges. Sparingly lit by overhead Edison bulbs, and adorned with slat wooden tables of differing heights, it’s a modern-looking space whose starkness is balanced out by a cartoonish mural of partying punters.
this venue brings a diverse range of beers to the fore in an area largely lacking in bar-style options
Ranked by HappyCow, the planet’s most comprehensive guide to plant-based restaurants, Warsaw has been named the ninthth most vegan-friendly city in the world…
Issued for the first time since 2019, the latest report by the globally recognized portal places Warsaw in ninth behind London, Berlin, New York, Melbourne, Singapore, LA, Bangkok and Amsterdam.
Although this represents a fall of three places, the findings have been interpreted more as a sign that other cities are finally realizing their potential, as opposed to a reflection of dipping interest. Moreover, despite the drop, Warsaw still rates above such major foodie cities as Barcelona, Paris, Portland, Tel Aviv and Lisbon, and the latest report should be seen as affirmation of the Polish capital’s standing in the vegan world.
“The number of vegan options continues to grow in 2022, with close to 70 vegan restaurants now in a 10km radius, and with most of those within just a 1km radius,” said the report. “The density of vegan restaurants in Warsaw makes it incredibly convenient to walk from restaurant to restaurant,” it continued before concluding that the city’s vegan scene has continued “to grow and flourish”.
In particular, the city was singled out for its “spectacular” vegan sushi restaurants such as Edamame and Youmiko, and for the “excellent” Italian offering at Leonardo Verde. Befitting of its legendary status as one of the vegan scenes early pioneers, Krowazywa were also praised for their continued success.
Other venues that were namechecked include the Vegan Ramen Shop chain which was described as “world class” as well as Middle Eastern restaurants such as Tel Aviv Urban Food, Veg4seasons, Falafel Full and Falafel Zudi.
Reflecting the diversity of Warsaw’s choices, the Mexican Momencik was mentioned as was the vegan seafood joint Dziki Królik. Comprehensive in its round-up, HappyCow did not overlook the trend towards vegan dessert stores such as Słodki Bez, Eter, Bajer Veganska and Vegestacja. “Warsaw also has a fully vegan grocery store, Evergreen, a vegan and organic certified wine shop, Solvino Bio, a vegan shoe store, Ananas, and even two vegan nail salons, Salon Wisla and Nailed It,” they continued. “It is one of the rare cities where, according to data, veganism has had an edge over vegetarianism for many years now,” wrote HappyCow, “and it’s great to see that the gap between both has gotten larger.”
What’s hot, what’s not and what’s happening around town…
For a mega blast of pastry magic, look to this little stonker…
Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka sits on the ground floor of a residential block saved over from Warsaw’s gloomy commie past. But, as a district, Muranów is shedding its reputation as a bleak estate at the center of a rather depressing Polonia-Legia graffiti war and has bloomed to present a string of uber cool spots. Tonka is the latest.
Crystal white minimalism rules, with the monotone palette given punch by a statement photo of a hilly, rural idyll and some subtle zaps of greenery. At striking odds with the grey building in which its found, this venue feels fresh and mod-
BY KEVIN DEMARIA
ern – there’s a touch of Berlin here, not to mention a discreet feminine touch. The large table is recommended for girl gang Prosecco moments, and the window-side perches ideal for daydreamers.
Widely celebrated in the nation’s food press, Monika Walecka is first and foremost known for her bread – when it comes to baking, it’s hard to think of anyone that has surpassed her reputation. Reputedly opening Tonka to act as a foil for her insanely successful Żoliborz bakery (Cała w Mące), she’s recruited a crack team of pastry experts to aid the development of Tonka.
Desserts rule in Tonka, and they’re pretty much among the best we’ve gulped in Warsaw. Or anywhere else, for that matter. Now more often than not, when this city presents modern-minded desserts they transpire to be flavorless disappointments that value design over actual taste. That issue does not exist in Tonka.
Using fresh seasonal fruits as their main point of inspiration, the undisputed crowd favorite is the raspberry roulade, a light and creamy bite that’s heaven on the tongue. But the problem here – and this is a major fault if you’re watching your calorie count – is that everything else is equally irresistible.
Iconic as the roulade has become, pop in for tasties that include fig tartlets with caramel cream and fig jam lovingly laid out on crispy shells; velvety chocolate slices crowned with plump blackberries; or pear melba that
will stop you in your tracks.
There is much to praise at Tonka, and that includes savory bites such as pumpkin toast with ricotta; specialty coffee from the likes of HAYB; and a small range of on-trend wines sitting on a corner shelf alongside ‘for home’ accessories such as scents and ceramics. Small as this place may be, the details will astonish.
Opened around six-months back, the Insider was a bit of a latecomer in discovering Tonka and as such this was a last moment addition to our Best of Warsaw issue in November. We’ve visited three times since and expect that number to rise significantly by the close of this year – it’s sensational, and we do not use that word lightly.
Simple but classy, refined but understandable, La Luce hits the mark for upmarket Italian…
When Warsaw’s food revolution first broke out around a decade or so ago, it was classic cuisines like Italian that faced the biggest existential threat – possibly seen as a little too safe and old school, the food of Italy found itself thrown in the shade as the city fell in love with new, wild tastes. But, you can’t keep something that’s good down forever, and the last few years have seen a veritable explosion of Italian options: from authentic gelaterias and artisanal stores, to a flood of Neapolitan pizzerias and, even, a Venetian themed cocktail bar. Italy, it would seem, is fiercely back in vogue.
In part, the renewal of Warsaw’s Italian fling can be traced to places like Prosciutteria. Buzzing with warmth, this engaging
brick-lined haunt became known for its menu of cold cuts; served on heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies sourced from small producers that the owners had befriended, so impressed were we that we were moved to describe it as “an orgy of pleasure”.
So what happened next? Success demanded a bigger
premises, and this was found on the ground floor of an atmospheric townhouse bang in the center. “I felt like I was on a mission to teach Poles how to love the quality of ingredients,” says owner Marcin Jackiewicz. “But the idea of serving only cold appetizers was just a beginning – I always knew that the next stage would mean opening a proper
ristorante that didn’t cut corner or serve pizzas.”
Closing Prosciutteria, from its ashes rose La Luce, a place whose mission was guided by Jackiewicz’s determination to use premium Italian product. Launching earlier in the year, in its short life his project has become one of the most hyped debuts of the year.
Touting a magnificently high end interior of raw brick, white tablecloths and vintage pictures of Italian entertainers, La Luce unfurls in a series of chambers that soothe the soul; as upmarket as it looks, there’s a sincerity to its beauty – over stripped wooden floorboards, guests move past heirloom features
La Luce Poznańska 37, laluce.com.pl
such as antique mirrors and a tiled stove that once warmed the bones of poet Miron Białoszewski. Elegant and stylish yet also intimate and intriguing, it’s a restaurant that requires a chunk of your time.
Italian wines are well-represented, but the cocktails too are things of merit. Sophisticated negronis aside, the tipples are crafted sips of beauty – for us, that meant Basil Contessa (gin, basil, vermouth and Campari) and a classic Aviation with its trademark maraschino cherry.
Operatic in its sweeping ambition, the menu, meanwhile, touts own-made black pasta, premium seafood, and a beef tartare with baked onion, Pecorino Romano and La Luce’s house focaccia. But it is the 30-day-aged Black Angus striploin that is the loudest both in price and taste (PLN 139), and it proves an outstanding splurge that’s worth the investment.
As for desserts, we’d welcome these to be expanded out a little more, for with just two to choose from the choice feels scant given the Italian reputation for the sweet side of life. Nonetheless, the lemon tart is a charm and comes with a clump of whipped cream and a neat layer of raspberries. As finales go, its evidence of a restaurant that attempts greatness – and by in large achieves it as well.
Just when we thought we’d seen it all before, along comes a street food inspired eatery to turn Warsaw’s Indian scene on its head…
Call us jaded, but Warsaw’s Indian scene has long ceased to thrill. Gone are the days when news of a new restaurant would travel like wildfire around the expat grapevine – today, you can bet your last cent that a new Indian restaurant will be just a copy of everything that’s come before.
BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Okay, so on occasions you’ll get a different décor; sometimes, maybe a little novelty on the menu – but by in large you’re looking at cut-and-paste tastes that no longer excite. Delhi 6, however, have seemingly done the impossible by smashing through the norms to present something unique.
Squeezed between the Playhouse strip club and the pavilions that line the left flank of Jana Pawła’s northern end, Delhi 6 hides itself down a narrow alley that’s easily missed if you’re not paying attention. A diamond in the rough, it’s the latest addition to the ethnic eateries that have flourished in the immediate area – among others, these include the cult Vegan Ramen Shop, the Japanese street food joint Achi Achi and the dumpling emporium Smak Tybetu. That Delhi 6 have found their niche here is a reflection on this district’s growing budget food scene.
Small and narrow, Delhi 6 is sparingly decorated with wipe-clean tables, exposed pipes and white walls displaying caricatures and jaunty pictures of urban Indian life. It’s a cheerful space, but no-frills in its aesthetics – in short, you shouldn’t choose it for a date. But then again, that’s not the point of Delhi 6. With its atmosphere enhanced by cheerful Bollywood beats and a chatty manager that’s always fussing over guests, it’s a venue that makes you feel like you’re part of something. And after two visits, you’ll already be treated like a local.
Forget all the above waffle, it’s the food you need to know about – oh my gosh, just the menu is enough to send the brain into convulsions. Do not visit expecting to order a tikka masala or your standard vindaloo. Instead, you’ve got an arsenal of street snacks that include fantastic deep-fried bread topped with yogurt and tangy tamarind sauce and a selection of curry wraps that include the awesomely addictive chili chicken: stuffed inside a delicious paratha, chow down on spiced chicken accompanied with heaps of crispy vegetables. And moving on, make time, too, for their tawa dishes. For our favorite, look no further than the diced chicken option.
Specializing also in crispy fried puffs served with dollops of assorted sides, Delhi 6 offer an enthralling menu that dares to present a side to Indian food that Poland has never seen before. In fact, we liked it so much we’ve already become regulars despite living on the other side of the river.
Frequented by everyone from
clued-up foodies (legendary chef Aleksander Baron has been spotted!) to student budget diners and expat curiosity seekers, it says a lot that much of their footfall comes from the Indian delivery drivers so common to the area – but they’re not here to courier food for others, they’re here in their time off because they know a good thing when they see it. With no hint of exaggeration, this is one of the Insider’s top discoveries of 2022 – now, make it one of yours.
Delhi 6 is run as a side concern by Indian Summers (be careful what you google though, for as it turns out that name is strikingly similar to a porn star of resounding talent). Found in deepest Wola, it’s been earning rave reviews from those that have visited – seemingly offering a more familiar menu in restaurant-style surroundings, we’ve even heard some say that it’s on course to become the best Indian in town. There’s no prizes for guessing where we’re going in time for our next issue.
To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…
the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.
Brzeska 29/31
The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery.
Marszałkowska 10/16
Wilcza 29
AWarm and homely with its woodsy finishes and empty pans hanging from the walls, Patelnia Patera deserve credit for creating the most incredible schabowy we’ve yet to taste: this flattened portion of pork is monstrous in size and marinated overnight in buttermilk ensuring that the meat stays moist and tender when fried. Coated in challah breadcrumbs mixed with dried podgrzybki, the flavors are electrifying.
This charming brick-lined recess has a magical intimacy and a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity. The cooking here sings of care and freshness, and it becomes a pleasure to pick your way through a seasonal menu of homespun tastes. The beef cheeks are exceptional, but we’ve also taken great joy in balls of black pudding with panko and apple sauce – this is the gastro equivalent of a hug between friends.
Wiślana 8
Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!
Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with
Some know Syty Chmiel as a craft multitap, but the truth is it’s also so much more. Better-known as Pan Tasak, co-owner Wit Szychowski has devised a menu that champions Poland’s rural greatness, with star cameos including blood sausage pancakes with caramelized apples. Hearty yet surprisingly sophisticated in its presentation and tastes, this is the kind of food befitting of the sound of clinking glasses.
Targowa 81
Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for the exquisite. For us, the pierogi with mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese remain a favorite memory.
Make a unique and unusual gift. Choose a culinary experience. Order a voucher and invite your loved ones for dinner at the hub. praga restaurant tel. 570 610 550 www.sklep.hub-praga.pl or book a table at www.hup-praga.pl
Reflecting Warsaw’s dynamic, modern spirit, the city is officially regarded as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet – we need a telephone book to list all the worthwhile restaurants, so instead make do with a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…
rooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of all of Warsaw’s vegan options.
Zgoda 4
The menu is a bamboozling work of Byzantine complexity, but think of that as a charming quirk – as it turns out, it contains treasures galore. Alive with fragrant, fresh flavors, the nem rolls, tofu bulgogi and yuba cha (fried tofu skin) all come recommended, as does the house kimchi: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage. The pho, meanwhile, completes your plunge into gentle happiness.
Poznańska 13
Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.
Koszykowa 49
Rzeczypospolitej 2A
Where does Warsaw get its vegan ideas from? We’ve no idea, but Dziki Królik breaks new boundaries in more ways than one. Set far from the vegan heartland in the center, this Wilanów locale touts a truly mind-altering menu composed of vologenese, mushroom scallops, tacos, and inspirational seafood dishes such as beer battered tofu ‘cod’ fillet. Cooked by Lady Jazz, enjoy these spectacular finds in an attractive wood-paneled interior tricked out with plants and charms.
Mikołaja Kopernika 25
Anchored by a geometric mural that declares ‘Guilty Pleasure’ in glowing pink letters, this pocket-sized locale exudes a sense of fun. Written up on the blackboard, the menu casts it net over the biggest comfort foods known to man, and these include empanada – small, tasty pleasures with a puff pastry shell holding the goodness together inside. And
there’s the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots, onions and red cabbage.
Wilcza 11
Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mush-
A Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.
Finlandzka 12
We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks. Also in Muranów (Jana Pawła II 52/54) and Mokotów (Kazimierzowska 43), though for us nothing beats the original!
Cholewinski is a family-owned brand that has been creating unique leather goods since 1982. The brand celebrates its 40th birthday in 2022, while welcoming the autumn-winter 2022/2023 season with a new collection. The brand offers unique, handmade handbags, made of genuine leather & accessories such as wallets, suitcases and belts. Welcome to the world of CHOLEWINSKI. Discover true craftsmanship.
Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw…
Nowogrodzka 10
Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the vegan menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers.
Haberbuscha i Schielego 2
Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England.
When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.
Run by Francesco from Puglia (“a region where mozzarella has the same importance as our daily bread,” he says), and Kaja, a cheese expert, this duo have combined Italian recipes with the best Polish eco-milk available to create the best mozzarella you’ll find in the city. Functioning as an online secret for far too long, now they’ve gone the extra yard to open a small, tastefully decorated bi-level eatery selling quick Italian bites, hard-to-find import wines and, of course, their artisanal cheeses. Believe us, this place is going to blow up once word starts getting out!
Grzybowska 43A
Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include
Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).
Jazdów 1B
Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavors are exceptional and are a fantasy of skill.
For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. Their steaks are legendary, and these peak out (both in terms of experience and expense) with the A5 class Wagyu Hokkaido.
You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.
Walecznych 64
To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the greatest informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.
Londyńska 16
Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is –head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family.
Puławska 24
Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.
Ostrobramska 73E
Found in Warsaw’s deep east, the greatness of The Eatery isn’t up for discussion. On our visit, nothing scored less than full marks: a pitch perfect tartare; sourdough mushroom soup of awesome oomph and flavor; and pork gołąbki with a demi-glace of such depth and taste we wanted to force our way into the kitchen and hoist the chef on our shoulders. Intimate and friendly, it’s one of the most unexpected pleasures we’ve enjoyed over these last couple of years.
From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…
Łazienkowska 3 (Legia Stadium)
Showing every match of the World Cup, check in to Legia’s slick-looking bar to catch the action on nine 4k TV sets and their big screen HD projector. Filled with black-and-white imagery of Legia triumphs, hardwood floors, and well-spaced tables, this bar is well-used to dealing with large, unwieldy crowds of fans, and as such they’ve got it down to a tee – the smooth operation of their trio of drinks points means waiting about is rarely an issue. Expect it to be bouncing for all of Poland’s games.
Haberbuscha i Schielego 6 (Browary Warszawskie)
Owned by Robert Lewandowski, and named Nine’s in honor of the number he’s worn ever since starting his career at Znicz Pruszkow, this four-floor project has become Warsaw’s sports bar of choice. Filled with memorabilia, features of this mega-pub include goal nets to act as petitions between seating booths, bar stools redolent of the plastic seats seen in stadiums, and tables embossed with pitch markings and other such frills. And on the top floor, a large screen facing onto seating that mimics the tribunes found in football grounds.
Hoża 61
Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman.
Poznańska 12
Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often
dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.
11 Listopada 22
Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.
Nowy Świat 54/56
This gaming bar is strange in every respect: among other decorations discover glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks and a toilet evoking Game of Thrones Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to mimic a 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum!
Wilcza 9A
You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steelframed irrigational contraptions.
Słowackiego 16/18
Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters.
Wilcza 73 (Nobu Hotel)
This premium live jazz address could easily serve as backdrop in a David Lynch flick. Subtle but enthralling in its design, its darkness is penetrated by dozens of orblike table lamps and overhead lights that bring to mind a spectacular star fall. Sophisticated
cocktails and excellent acoustics make gigs here a pleasure: and yes, the names that have played here have been second to none – Makoto Ozone, Anna Maria Jopek, Kurt Elling and other such luminaries.
For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.
Al. Armii Ludowej 14
Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!
Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)
Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte.
Mazowiecka 12
Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before
you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.
Ząbkowska 6
Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, you then need all the luck in the world to bulldoze through the scrum that has gathered to listen to Balkan rockers, Afro-Latin bands and the spectacularly named Bum Bum Orchestra.
Bagatela 10
There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor (over 400 replica skulls) as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16
Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the courtyard. As for drinks, there’s some classic cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-yearold carriage house at the end. Warning: cards only!
Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s a handpicked selection of tried and tested faves…
capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.
ul. Andersa 6 Attached to one of the hippest barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past.
FILTRY DOBRA KAWA ul. Niemcewicza 3
Francuska 30
One of Saska Kępa’s most photographed features are the umbrellas that dangle over the all-weather terrace – featuring the colors of Ukraine, these hang over a series of glasshouses that warmed with outdoor heaters. Inside, order ace coffee using Chemex, Aeropress and drip methods, or order what we rate as the best mulled wine this side of the river. Without this café-bar, the area would be a helluva’ lot poorer.
ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42)
Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored cobbled prewar Próżna street. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and
workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check their original address on Wilcza.
ul. Nowolipki 13
Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables
Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – for the city’s coffee afficionados this is a bona fide place of pilgrimage.
FORUM ul. Elektoralna 11
Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.
HAŁAS ul. Elsterska 10
Divide Hałas into two sections: first, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Then, smuggled in the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty.
KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK ul. Łucka 18
This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend.
PO DRODZE ul. Bagatela 11
Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit. As for the coffee, they work real magic with Ethiopian beans in particular. With winter hitting, its proximity to Łazienki make it a perfect stop after a crisp, chilly walk.
RELAKS ul. Puławska 48
An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.
ul. Wilcza 17
An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of
coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.
ul. Schroegera 80
Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though it’s the magical garden that everyone talks about – even with the
first frosts hitting, it’s a beauty to look out onto.
ul. Tamka 33The freelancers and people watchers that gather here do so to bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. .
Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…
postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.
ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)
Compact and box-like, Cześć have transitioned to become one of the cornerstones of Warsaw’s craft scene. Flying in the face of fads and fashions, it’s a bar that feels honest and comfortable in its own skin. Looking pleasantly worn-in after nearly nine-years of service the rotation of beers is brilliantly balanced between new finds and traditional top-sellers from the canon of Artezan, Pinta and other A-class Polish breweries.
Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)
Find Uwaga planted behind virginal white walls of what could easily be mistaken for a London-style mews house. Entered under a funky, photogenic neon, guests cross a flagstone floor before entering the bar area – windowless it might be, but it immediately engages through the warmth of its vibe. Straight away, it’s a place that draws the eye with an interior that makes use of carpenter-style workbenches and plush, comfortable seats in eclectic clashing colors. Cost-wise, the craft beers are very reasonable given the upmarket nature of Norblin.
ul. Lwowska 17
Proudly run by Belarussian exiles (that’s a pre-Lukashenko flag behind the bar), traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness – in winter, it feels like the perfect hidden bolthole. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more
standard drinks. The choice is not revolutionary, but this place is loved by all those who like a wild night – the weekends do get messy with a sloshed and diverse crowd.
ul. Andersa 23 Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban
Drugie Dno ul. Nowogrodzka 4
Replicating the look of a disused power station, the Double D is a place of rugged brickwork, steel girders, vintage voltage meters and, get this, clanky toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Set over three floors, the 14 craft taps are largely committed to the wild tastes of modern Poland.
ul. Nowogrodzka 12
Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior.
For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…
personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. However, the main menu has also been extended to include such hits as beef tenderloin and grilled dorado. The happening, cosmopolitan vibe is reflected by a sublime cocktail offers that mixes South American and Japanese influences.
Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54
Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. Many locations, inc.
Widok 8
Unii Lubelskiej 1
Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. Breathing new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic roundabouts, Ahaan will wok your world!
Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin
Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its
styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas.
Twarda 4
With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and
The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!
Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!
When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…
feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.
Ossolińskich 3
Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 13
Wilcza 46
Winning our award last month for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, our October visit peaked with a razor thin cuts of venison loin served in the style of a mille-feuille, as well as a star turn by a grilled octopus coated with wasabi mayo and served with a surprising, adventurous hit of chili with the accompanying creamy potato.
Mokotowska 48
Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrin-
thine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.
Rozbrat 44A
The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to
Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.
Jagiellońska 22
Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title in our Best of Warsaw issue last month. And wow, this newbie is also one to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moonshaped mirrors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to
fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.
Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.
Rozbrat 20
This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits
then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.
Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)
Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango.
TUNA Elektryczna 2
Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic. Specializing in ‘doing the unexpected’ with fish, chef and co-owner Martin Gimenez Castro has created an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. An ecstasy of tastes, Tuna succeeds in reimagining everything you thought you knew about eating fish.
Muzealna Jerozolimskie 3
Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington. What lies in store this December is guesswork, but you can bet it will hit the spot.
are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when you discreetly enquire about their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.
Wilcza 43
Hoża 27
Finding a smaller bar would probably require a magnifying glass; tiny as it is, Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bourbons.
Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1
Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air
of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for comparisons to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.
Wojciecha Górskiego 9
The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks
NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.
Poznańska 21
Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails like the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water).
Moliera 6
One of the year’s hottest openings, Rascal is reputedly Europe’s largest bar specializing in natural wines. Looking stripped down to maximize the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers that have made this their domain.
Koszykowa 1
Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, a ‘Girls on Top’ menu featuring drinks such as Baby One More Time and Wannabe. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.
Wilcza 73
Filled with light during the day, come dusk the curtains sweep shut to close guests off from the outside world. Sensual fragrances waft around, complementing a luxury menu touting bottles of craft sake that peak at PLN 3,000. Fixed by immaculate staff, cocktails are also prominent and are seasonally inspired.
Zajęcza 1A Bathed in the soft light of the 70s style vintage lamps scattered about, the tone is set out front by the wacky board signboard that likens switching to natural wine as “travelling from black and white to intense psychedelic”. As fun as this trip in time is, the wines are of the cutting edge and are ably supported by the cooking of co-owner Oleg.
Waryńskiego 9C
Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these number six interpretations of negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks. The speed with which they’re fixed belie the quality at play.
Nowogrodzka 15
Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto an interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with craft ingredients resulting in drinks like the Hemingway (Maraschino, house-made clarified grapefruit juice, coconut sugar and Zaremba’s own rum blend).
WŁOCŁAWEK, the capital of Kuyavia region, is a hospitable and f riendly city. It is worth coming here to develop your company or to invest in innovative products. The city has a centuries-long industrial tradition, built mostly by local factory owners whose legacy is an important element of Włocławek’s image to this day. Appreciating business people’s role in creating the city’s economic sphere, we have undertaken a number of pro-investment measures. Among other things, companies can take advantage of tax exemptions.
I am very happy that, more and more people are noticing Włocławek on the business map of Poland. This is certainly because the city has great transport connections, making it easy to travel between here and any corner of Poland and Europe. Also, a growing number of young people are returning to their native region, deciding to open businesses in Włocławek and offer new products and services to residents and tourists. It is a very valuable experience for the local government to be able to support the dreams and hopes of those who value Włocławek as a people-friendly place where they can live well and develop.
Substantial support and friendly help for companies wishing to visit our city is offered by Investor Assistance Centre operating in Włocławek City Hall. Please feel invited!
he best way of developing your business is to invest in the city which boasts a rich industrial tradition and is also the historical capital of Kuyavia: Włocławek. This city offers many opportunities to entrepreneurs and investors.
Where is the perfect place for your business located? Włocławek lies in the very center of Poland and also on Vistula, the country’s longest river. The third-largest city in Kuyavian-Pomeranian province, it has an area of 84.32 sq. km and a population of around 100,000. It is worth noting Włocławek’s good transport connections. You can get anywhere quickly and efficiently thanks to the A1 freeway’s Włocławek – North (Brzezie) and Włocławek – West (Pikutkowo) junctions as well as highways: No. 91 Gdańsk – Toruń – Włocławek – Łódź – national border, No. 62 Strzelno – Włocławek – Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, and No. 67 Lipno – Włocławek.
Th e sectors of the economy for which the city is famous include chemicals, energy, food products, metals, and building materials. Włocławek has witnessed many major projects related to these sectors in recent years. Alongside Anwil SA, one of Poland’s biggest companies
from the chemical sector, this sector is also represented by Europe’s most advanced petrochemical complex for paraxylene and terephthalic acid (PX/PTA) production, built by PKN Orlen SA. This company has also contributed to the energy sector by building the country’s most advanced and biggest gas and steam combined heat and power generation plant.
The key project for the metals and building materials sector has been Budizol Sp. z o.o. S.K.A. company’s construction of a plant manufacturing construction-sector energy-saving products. The biggest Włocławek-based food businesses include the producer of the Delecta brand, well-known for baking products like cake mixes as well as seasonings and jelly and custard powders. Other famous brands from Włocławek include WIKA Polska, Guala Closures DGS Poland, Salamander Window & Door Systems, Geberit, Indorama Ventures Poland, Renex, and many others.
Th e o perations of Włocławek’s entrepreneurs and investors are su pported by many institutions in the business environment. Those based in the city include Włocławek Innovation and Entrepreneurship Incubator, which fos-ters the development of businesses. The incubator offers enormous support for launching and conducting business operations, through the training and consulting services it provides and by guaranteeing cheap office, production and warehouse space. The local authorities also appreci-ate entrepreneurs for their contribution to the city’s eco-nomic development, supporting them through tax breaks and substantial outlays on municipal projects. These pro-investment efforts are additionally consolidated by the Investor Assistance Centre in Włocławek City Hall, offering support and comprehensive assistance to inves-tors and entrepreneurs, and Włocławek Business Center located at the Włocławek Innovation and Entrepreneur-ship Incubator.
If you are looking for a place to invest, you will find it in Włocławek. How is that possible? Włocławek Economic Development Area is of land with comprehensive utilities. These in-clude roads, electricity, a gas network as well as a water and sewerage system and telecom and IT infrastructure. What we do not have yet is you and your business. More information will help you decide to invest in Włocławek.
Włocławek Economic Development Area is an area whose function – according to the zoning plan – is industrial. Investors can take advantage of the following forms of acquiring terrain owned by the urban commune of Włocławek: tenancy, leasing or sale. The area has a direct link to highway No. 91 and to exits from the A1 freeway: the Włocławek – North (Brzezie) and Włocławek – West (Pikutkowo) junctions.
If you want to invest next to well-known brands, in a city of opportunities that appreciates entrepreneurs, be sure to contact Włocławek City Hall Investor Assistance Centre. Feel that chemistry with Włocławek and come to the perfect place for your business!
Włocławek City Hall Investor Assistance Centre phone: +48 54 414 40 44, 414 44 77, 414 47 67 www.wloclawek.eu
Christmas just wouldn’t be the same without the ice rink at the center of the Rynek. Operating on a more restricted schedule than last year due to Europe’s energy crisis, the Old Town Square will nonetheless again be the place to be for Warsaw’s most atmospheric skate. Touting the same smooth, environmentally friendly rink that debuted last year, little can compete with swooshing around the illuminated mermaid statue while snowflakes gently fall. And when you’re done, tradition dictates that it’s almost mandatory to order a mulled wine from one of the timber huts that frame it – sticky, sickly sweet and guaranteed to burn half your tongue off, these scalding sips are the definitive taste of winter in Warsaw.
Outside of the realm of Warsaw’s Christmas fairs and seasonal activities, use the holidays to catch the exhibitions that have got the city talking…
Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl
Taking place in the Royal Library, the only room inside the castle that fully survived the war, Abakanowicz. Confrontations brings the work of one of Poland’s most celebrated 20th century artists to the fore and contextualizes against Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Opening on December 1st, we’ll be back with a full review in time for next issue.
90s Warsaw Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasto 32, muzeumwarszawy.pl
Formally titled Gloss, Matte, Color, this extraordinary exhibition presents 1,000 photos that chart varying chapters of the city’s story to offer a textured, warts and all retrospective of the good, the bad and the ugly. We see the poverty of 1990s Warsaw, the absurdities (King
Kong on the Palace on the Culture!), the adventurism and mayhem. Frankly, it’s amazing.
Dom Spotkań z Historią Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl
There to capture Martial Law, the collapse of Communism and the subsequent political transition, Chris Niedenthal’s photos of everyday Poland in the midst of these turbulent times have become iconic.
Along with his most high profile images, this exhibition sees many less-known works displayed along with original issues of Time magazine and the various cameras used by the photographer.
Relive The Glory ArtBox Experience (Norblin Factory) Żelazna 51/53, artboxexperience.com
Tapping into World Cup fever, the immersive ArtBox Experience gives visitors the chance
to glory in Poland’s greatest, most historic World Cup triumphs. Celebrating the legendary Class of 74 and 82 – both of which finished the tournament third – this striking installation takes viewers back to the times when the likes of Zbigniew Boniek and Kazimierz Deyna made the country one of the biggest forces in world football.
Secrets of the Ancients Muzeum Nowa Praga Jagiellońska 82A, tut-warszawa.pl
Opened to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun, this exhaustive exhibition relies on carefully crafted replicas and engaging film to recreate the story of one of the greatest finds in the history of archaeology. Demanding a fair bit of reading and listening, this exhibition’s potential to overwhelm its visitors is offset by the fascinating story that underpins it.
Dzielna 5, Warsaw
Established in 2007 by Marta Kołakowska, LETO is one of the most active art galleries on the scene. With a roster of only 16 artists, the gallery is able to showcase work at numerous international art fairs. The possibility of purchasing a selection of artwork directly from the gallery website facilitates the creation of a unique community, united in its shared appreciation for the unconventional.
Wilcza 29A, Warsaw lokal30.pl
Dzielna 5, Warsaw hosgallery.pl
A similarly leading establishment, HOS, however, represents only a handful of permanent artists. These include Norbert Delman, among others, as well as the archive of Romana Hałata (1937-2012) – an influential Polish modern artist and teacher. The gallery enriches its offer through a series of regular exhibitions. On until the end of December is an exhibition of works by
Part one in our series showcasing who's who in Warsaw's gallery scene.. four female artists, Aleksandra Liput, Antonina Nowacka, Nina Paszkowski and Manuela Mehrwald, titled Forest Desires. The display, as its name suggests, deals with ideas personified through a forest. From fears and desires, lurking among trees, to the pain and suffering at the hands of mankind. The artists turn the forest into a metaphor for their own creative journey, a place both full of life, yet simultaneously wild and dangerous – a seemingly perfect symbol of the artist’s search for truth.
Focusing primarily on the work of female artists, Lokal_30 has been active since 2006. With a brief stint in East London, where the gallery operated an affiliated branch between 2009 and 2010, Leto_30 is now based solely in Warsaw. Run by Agnieszka Rayzacher, the gallery holds regular exhibitions alongside its work as an artist agency. To open on the 16th of December is a show of work by artist Julia Woronowicz. Entitled 2410, the solo exhibition recounts the story of women in Poland across the past four centuries, as retold by Polish émigrés living in the United States in the 25th century. As time passed, and the history of Poland was forgotten, the community finds it difficult to differentiate between myth and fact. What is told is a history of Poland filled with pagan rituals, demonic figures and a story skewed by the passage time – a warning of the ease of factual manipulation. The exhibit lasts until the 10th of February 2023.
If you’re looking for the perfect gift or to treat yourself to something luxurious, a trip to Designer Outlet Warszawa is a must for the essential shopping experience.
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Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl
in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,
Ministerstwo Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego
Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@
theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl
Treating
Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl
guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl
Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting
Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers
Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
Offering year-round discounts ranging from 30-70%, discover over 130 designer brands within a stunning complex designed to effect the look of Warsaw’s Baroque historic center. Labels include Lacoste, Boss, Made in M (with MaxMara, Marella, Max&Co. and Pennyblack), Karl Lagerfeld and Twinset. ul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), designeroutletwarszawa.pl
Warsaw’s original luxury shopping
center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl
One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9,
likusconceptstore.pl
Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl
Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl
Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum
A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the
story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl
Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading
artisans of the time. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a lifesize replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…
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Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl
2
Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com 3
Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4
Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5
Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6
Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7
Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
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Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
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Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10
Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia
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Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl
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Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5
Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
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Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl
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POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
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National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2
The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3
Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
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Who doesn’t love spending Christmas with their feet up in front of the TV – for tele addicts, we bring some of our choices for the winter ahead…
Available on the website 35mm. online, nearly 4,000 films, documentaries and TV programs have been made available for free. Subtitled into English, all date from the era of the Polish People’s Republic and include numerous classics from the canon of Andrzej Wajda and Krzysztof Kieślowski. If you can’t get enough of Warsaw, the 1958 documentary From Powisle is brilliant for its unrecognizable exploration of this now trendy district. But it’s the website’s random selections we love the most, for instance, Criminal Records: “two young men from a town near Lodz attack a taxi driver with guns,” reads the preview. “The loot is meagre, so they keep murdering.” There’s enough here to make you a hermit for the rest of the year.
For what’s now become one of the biggest traditions of all, look no further than Home Alone
Translated to Kevin W Samu Domu in Polish, it’s become a much-loved staple of Wigilia. So much so, when Polsat pulled it from their schedule in 2010 they outraged the country prompting online petitions and headlines announcing ‘Polsat have killed Christmas’. Now reinstalled as part of the Xmas schedule, some have attributed the sentimentality associated with the movie to an original release date that coincided with the early days of post-Communist freedom. “Everything about it depicted the kind of world that every Pole wanted to be part of,” explains one critic.
There’s a whole heap of Made In Poland films and shows to stream, and an increasing number are actually worth your time. Making a splash in recent times, High Water tells the story of the floods that decimated Wroclaw in 1997 and has been met with universal acclaim. Set in Warsaw, Hold Tight adapts the Harlan Coben book to the small screen and uses several locations that will strike viewers as familiar. We’ve also got to give a big upvote to The Hater, a 2020 Warsaw-set thriller whose promotional art was sketched by the Insider’s former cover illustrator! Down south, on the film front, the vaguely creepy Hellhole has had mixed reviews but is worth an evening of your time.
Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.
Inquiries about Christmas booking should be sent to the following e-mail address: rezerwacje@klonn.pl
ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl
