Warsaw Insider #182 October 2011

Paranormal Activity pages 12-13

Fright Bites

A Day at the Races page 26

page 17

The Devil Wears Praga

pages 20-25

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37 Łowicka St., Warsaw • Tel. 22 224 54 54, 22 423 44 40 www.valadier.pl • e-mail: restauracja@valadier.pl

to our readers

october 2011

Boo-tiful Warsaw

photograph top shutterstock. Bottom from left Kevin Demaria (2), courtesy of Frank A.

ctober is the month of the humble pumpkin. I remember the quizzical look on the face of a vendor at the local farmers market many, many years ago – pumpkin? Why? Did I own a pig that needed to be fed? So it warms my heart to see a true embracing of the magical vegetable (remember Cinderella?) these days. Chefs at our favorite restaurants are exploring pumpkin in soups, vegetable mélanges and stews. Shop owners use them for decoration. Children tumble over them at open air bazaars. But most importantly, we can sharpen the knife and practice a wee bit of annual creativity by carving jack-o-lanterns. In the U.S., having a well-designed, hollowed out pumpkin sitting on your porch or terrace lit up with a candle signals to all on the street participation in that unofficial children’s holiday – Halloween. But here in Warsaw? Well, it depends. Certainly, globalization of the Disney film market has let the (black) cat out of the bag, so to speak, and visions of unlimited candies dance in the heads of children from Portugal to Papau New Guinea. Poland is no exception. Unfortunately, the protocol so engrained in America is missing. I’m speaking of those rules we all know from our childhood: must wear a costume, must appear to be too young to shave, must only go to houses with the porch light on and must know that the ‘trick’ part of trick or treat is not a call to arms. We Warsaw home owners never know quite what to expect. It is a societal transition in the making. But it does not hurt to stock up on your favorite candy just in case word is out that a benevolent foreigner has moved into the neighborhood. Meanwhile, back at the pumpkin patch, try one of my favorite recipes. Scoop out those pumpkin seeds, separate them from the stringy bits, wash off and pat dry. Lay flat on a cookie sheet, generously salt and bake (roast) at 170C until browned. Munch with your favorite goblin, just have him bring the beer. Paula Rewald editor@warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s top 3 Agnieszka Le Nart is a Warsaw native who grew up in New York. After assisting on a horrendous photo shoot with Naomi Campbell, she decided to reassess her life goals and picked Poland as the place to do it. Seven years later, she’s still here - working as an editor for the English-language version of the Culture.pl website.

Hala Mirowska al. Jana Pawła II The best and freshest selection of veggies in the whole of Warsaw. Each stall holds a rainbow of goodies and surprises. I head to the market once a week before work and stock up on kilos upon kilos of goodies for less than zł.100.

Beirut Humus and Music Bar ul. Poznańska 12 It’s just half a block from my flat so I’m there nearly every night of the week. The cool decor, laid-back vibe, great music, affordable drinks and yummy snacks make it just about the best bar in town. No fuss, no pretense - just lots of fun.

Frank A. ul. Natolińska 3 One of my favourite boutiques in Warsaw. It stocks the most fabulous clothes from MARNI, Roland Mouret, Celine, Proenza Schouler, Sweeney and American Vintage - only there’s no snob vibe that you usually get at Warsaw shops.

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what’s inside:

October 2011

Arts and Entertainment

Eating Out

Going Out

Till You Drop

Lifestyle

05 Insider’s Pick Warsaw Film Festival 06 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 08 The Screening Room Film openings 08 Museums Top cultural institutes 09 Insider’s Pick Dom Spotkań z Historią 27 Insider’s Pick L’Arc Varsovie 38 The Luncheonettes Suparom II 55 Top Shop African Shop

FEATURES

12 P aranormal Activity Warsaw’s spooky Halloween houses.

26 Fright Bites Local food that’ll scare you witless.

14 G rave Memories Exploring the cemeteries.

COLUMNS

16 T he Free Market Tresures unearthed at the Olimpija Market. 17 Horses for Courses A day at the races.

01 T he Editor Speaks Opening words from our Editor-at-large, as well as Warsaw’s Top 3 Spots as deigned by contributor of the month, Agnieszka Le Nart.

18 R elics of the PRL Everyday remnants of Commie Poland.

o4 Why Warsaw Tour guide Kasia Kacprzak talks to the Insider about the secrets of Warsaw

20 The Devil Wears Praga Warsaw’s right bank explored and unmasked.

11 M um’s The Word Pumpkin season hits Warsaw

Editor-at-Large Senior Editor Managing Editor Editor Art Director Publisher Staff Photographer Advertising Manager Distribution Manager

Paula Rewald prewald@valkea.com Zuza Ziomecka zziomecka@valkea.com Alex Webber Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Kevin Demaria Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Bartosz Bajerski bbajerski@valkea.com Karol Kosiorek kkosiorek@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Anna J. Kutor Laura Klos Sokol Agnieszka Le Nart Marysia Mastalerz

57 Insider’s Pick Rich & Pretty 63 Insider’s Pick Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/4

67 Insider’s Pick Zest 78 Warsaw Map and Street Index 79 Classifieds

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2011 Warsaw Insider.

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Cover illustration michał miszkurka, photograph by kevin demaria

Listings

WHY WARSAW?

Warsaw-born Kasia Kacprzak leads a double life – by day she’s a project manager for Carrefour, on weekends a costume touting countess guiding tourists through the history of Warsaw.

What’s your favorite museum? The museum in Wilanów Palace. It’s still full of that proud, triumphant atmosphere from the times when Poland was one of the most influential countries on the European map. And in contrast to many other palaces it was never destroyed, so I think it’s kept that good energy. But my main reason for liking it is the portrait gallery – I can spend hours looking at all those countesses in their fashion garb, and dreaming about my next historical costume.

Tell us about your favorite part of Warsaw. I love Praga. Having survived WWII in better shape than the left side, it’s the most authentic part of Warsaw. There’s still a real pre-war atmosphere to the place, and the people deserve credit for preserving bits of Warsaw’s traditions: my grandmother is from Praga, and speaks a specific dialect that’s hard to find elsewhere. And it’s also home to so many international artists, as well as all those brilliant, alternative clubs and cafes – there’s no pretence in them, which is so different from the city center.

If you were given an unlimited budget, what would you do with Warsaw? I’d invest in making Warsaw an easier and nicer place to live: that’d involve more work on the underground, and returning the Wisła to its old level of importance. I’d like to return more pre-war charm to the capital as well by rebuilding the palaces we lost in the war: both Saski Palace and the Bruhl, for example. And neither should we let our industrial heritage die; places like the red brick gasworks – Gazownia Wola – or the Pollenacosmetics Factory in Praga should be treasured and restored.

an enchanted guide

You do a lot of tour-guiding in your spare time, how did that start? Four years ago I had a Belgian boyfriend and took him on a tour of Praga – he liked it so much that soon his friends asked if I could take them. The same year I joined the Professionals in Warsaw, with tour guiding becoming one the contribu-

tions I brought to the group. With Euro 2012 coming up I decided to go professional, and this June qualified for my license. Add my passion for historical costume, and you get a fuller picture of how it all came about. What’s Warsaw’s biggest secret? Warsaw has been known as the capital of Poland since 1596, after Zygmunt III Vasa moved his court here after a fire in his Kraków residence. But the truth is, Warsaw’s official status was that of ‘residential city of his Majesty.’ While Warsaw filled the role as capital for hundreds of years, the first official record confirming this only came with the 1952 constitution! If you inherited the Palace of Culture, what would you do with it? I’d give names to the twenty cats that live in the subterranean labyrinth below it. You’ve lived in New York, France and

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Since forming in 2008 the Professionals in Warsaw have emerged as one of the key community groups in the capital, connecting old hands with newbies, and natives with ex-pats. For more info on events, meetings and trips organized by the Professionals, search for them on Facebook.

photograph by Magdalena Mąka

Italy, what does Warsaw have that these places don’t? Those are all beautiful places that offer so much the moment you land. But Warsaw is more interesting to me; it’s beauty isn’t so obvious. Warsaw’s like a girl that won’t give you everything she has on the first date! You have to find the right approach and attitude, and that way she’ll reveal the best she has to offer.

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Museums, Galleries, Concerts & Events

Insider’s Pick

October 7th-16th Festival 27th Warsaw Film Festival Held at different cinemas across town, www.wff.pl

he history of this film festival goes back to 1985, when it was originally held in the modest surrounds of the Hybrydy Club on Złota 7/9. Since those early beginnings it has grown and morphed into one of the most influential festivals in Central Eastern Europe with last year’s edition attracting an audience of over 108,000 people. Coinciding with Warsaw’s ‘golden autumn’ the festival aims to give Warsaw crowds a preview of upcoming releases tipped for wider worldwide glory on the red carpets of Cannes and Hollywood. As such, audiences at the WFF are often the first in the country to view the next big thing coming from stateside, as well as films from Asia, Latin America, Europe and more. The festival’s program is divided into five competitive and two noncompetitive categories, and festival goers can vote themselves after each screening as part of the Audience Award. Thunderous ovations

Above: Actor Zbigniew Zamachowski (left) at the 2010 Opening Gala Ceremony along with his translator are part of the parcel, as is the sight of movie fans rushing from one screen to the next, covertly avoiding the eyes of their boss. Don’t be surprised to find yourself turning into one of these people. Why? Simple. Over two hundred films are due for screening this year, the majority of which will be subtitled in English – even the Polish films. And don’t expect the crowded screening rooms to empty straight after; it’s straight after the film you’ll usually find heated discussions with both directors and actors. Says Stefan Laudyn, the WFF director: “A micro-community arises spontaneously during each Film Fest – friendships and professional contacts are formed forever.” But be warned; tickets go like hot cakes, so stock up on passes in advance. For further details, and a full schedule (unreleased at press time), keep tabs on their Englishlanguage website. (AJ) Screenings scheduled for: Multikino Złote Tarasy and Kinoteka. Advance ticket sales from September 28th till October 6th at EMPiK on ul. Marszałkowska 116/122, as well as from the aforementioned cinemas during the festival itself.

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 4 Tue Concert GURRUMUL 20:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl This Aboriginal artist sings in his native language of Yolngu, and is the first native Australian to have cracked the international big time: among his fans are Bjork, Elton John and Sting. Tickets from zł. 130-250.

Mali. This is the pair’s second visit to Poland following their appearance at the Opener in 2006. Expect a global, world music sound, as well as pop, jazz and ethnic influences.

9 Sun Concert Pirates of the Caribbean 19:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Orchestral suites from all the three installments of “Pirates of the Caribbean”. Tickets from zł. 60. Advanced booking recommended.

13 Thurs Concert

6 Thurs Concert John Scofield and Amadou & Mariam 19:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl An acclaimed jazz guitarist and a charismatic musical pair from

Tori Amos 20:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Tori Amos’ fourth visit to Poland, this time to promote her latest album “Night of Hunters”. Known for crossing styles and genres in her songs, her concerts are commonly lauded as unmissable. Tickets: zł. 176- 209.

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14 Fri Festival Free Form Festival Centrum Kultury Koneser, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 22 827 0077, www.freeformfestival.pl The Free Form aims to highlight independent sounds and art forms, showcasing upcoming musical and artistic trends from around the globe. The focus is undoubtedly the music, and acts gracing the capital this year include Kele of Bloc Party, Vitalic and The Streets. Alongside them will be a variety of other art forms, including performances, short and full length films, exhibitions and suchlike.

15 Sat Concert Alexandrov Choir 19:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Their first performance was back in 1928, and although the make-up of the group has changed since then, one of the best male choirs in the world has maintained their military traditions. There’s 2,000 songs

in their repertoire, though you can certainly expect sing-along anthems like Kalinka and Katyusha to get prime time.

17 Mon Concert Anna Calvi Palladium, ul. Złota 9, tel. 22 827 7049, www.palladium.art.pl This charming Brit has already been likened to Edith Piaf and PJ Harvey, while Brian Eno was so impressed he called her, “phenomenal… The biggest female talent since Patti Smith”. Her debut album is pure rock inspiration, but is also influenced by flamenco and her favorite composers: Ravel, Debussy and Ennio Morricone.

19 Wed Concert Britten Sinfonia 19:30, Warsaw Philharmonic, ul. Jasna 5, tel. 22 551 7111, www.filharmonia.pl A concert from the series “Orchestras of the World.” This celebrated and innovative orchestra will play works both by contemporary composers,

THis page courtesy of Republic Media. Oppostie, clockwise from bottom left, courtesy of Makrokoncert, courtesy of Russian Concert Agency, courtesy of five flavours festival

event calendar namely Erkii-Sven Tüür and James McMillan (the conductor), as well as classical forefathers like Beethoven. Tickets: zł. 25-50.

22Sun Dance Estampas Porteñas- ‘’Tango Feeling’’ 19:00, PKiN Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl The troupe is composed of the most experienced dancers from the best Argentinean dance schools, and includes the brilliant ballerina and choreographer, Carolina Soler at its helm. Tickets: zł. 95-255.

Taking place for the second year running, this event is a feisty response to modern day commercialism and serves as a platform for artists to showcase their work in an environment different to the traditional gallery.

24 mon

2nd Art Inn – Festival and Independent Art Fair 1500m2 do wynajęcia, ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412

13 thursday Concert Jurij Baszmet Warsaw Philharmonic, ul. Jasna 5, tel. 22 551 7111, www.filharmonia.pl.

Festival 28th International Meeting of Live Arts CROSSROADS 2011 CSW, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 628 6408, www.csw.art.pl, and various locations around Warsaw On the one hand, dance theater productions that include reflections on social psychology and cultural evolution. On the other, intimate performances and installations that study the image of women.

Concert

Art Fair

media patronage

US3 Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Brainchild of London based Geoff Wilkinson, US3 has arrived with their new album “Lie, Cheat & Steal” (due out in early October) and you’ll catch them performing alongside two rappers: New York-based Oveous Maximus and the highly regarded Brit Akala.

Called “the best living musician in the world” by the The Times, Baszmet is returning to Poland along with the orchestra ‘’Soliści Moskwy’’ as well as the talented Polish violinist, Agata Szymczewska. Global musical masterpieces, both classical and contemporary, will be performed on Stradivarius violins to fully accent the magic of this music.

19 wed – 26 wed Festival ‘Five Flavours’ 5th Film Festival KINO.LAB, Kino Muranów, tel. 606 147 129, www.piecsmakow.pl The next best thing to visiting Asia itself... For the first time Japaneses films will also be screened, among their number the premiere of “Norwegian Wood”. Directed by Tran Anh Hung, it’s based on the cult novel by Japanese author Haruki Murakami. Even so, the focus of this festival is firmly elsewhere, and the event will be centered around the upcoming world of Taiwanese cinematography.

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

www.warsawinsider.pl

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT >>

screening room opening this month: 7th Jane Eyre The Help (Służące) Drama. USA. Dir. Tate Taylor, with Emma Stone, Viola Davis, Bryce Dallas Howard

Romance. UK, USA. Dir. Cary Fukunaga, with Jamie Bell, Mia Wasikowska

21st Win Win (Wszyscy wygrywają) Comedy. USA. Dir. Thomas McCarthy, with Paul Giamatti, Amy Ryan

Killer Elite (Elita Zabójców) Thriller. USA. Dir. Gary McKendry, with Jason Statham, Robert de Niro, Clive Owen

14th The Debt (Dług) Thriller. USA. Dir. John Madden, with Sam Worthington, Tom Wilkinson, Hellen Mirren

Trespass Crime. USA. Dir. Joel Schumacher, with Nicole Kidman, Nicolas Cage

The Three Musketeers (Trzej muszkieterowie 3D) Action. France, Germany, USA, Great Britain. Dir. Paul W.S. Anderson, with Orlando Bloom, Ray Stevenson, Milla Jovovich

Give us a call or email us:

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Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recycable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Galeria BZZZ, designed for children aged up to six, is a must for families, and now also open are ‘The Heavens of Copernicus’, a state-of-the-art planetarium. From Oct 18th Laboratories Four labs - biological, chemical, physical and robotic - will open their doors to budding scientists (school groups during the week, anyone over 13 during the weekend). CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance), and at times remarkable events: eg. the Festival of Modern Dance. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Two exhibitions are currently hogging the limelight: Laboratory of the Future - Act 1 REGRESS PROGRESS: On show: works by Paweł Althamer, Aleksandra Wasilkowska, Cai Guo-Qiang, Simon Leung,

raumlaborberlin and exhibitions: Where is the green rabbit?, Landscape of the future and Performing Architecture. October 17th - Jan 15th Saved by droog. Dutch group Droog Design bring their wacky combo of environmentally inspired creativity to PL. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings. Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26

Museums & Galleries What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1,

www.ethnomuseum.website.pl Established in 1888 the 76,000 strong collection here is not the dull ensemble you may anticipate: just check the utterly bizarre straw costumes for proof. Polish folk costume, glassware, paintings and even Easter eggs feature prominently, but so do other countries. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of

the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina

Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl From Oct 6th onwards view Ryan Gander’s three meter installation “Really shiny things that don’t mean anything.” Also running will be “Sculpture Undone” by Alina Szapocznikow (till Jan 8th), and “Moscow Auditorium” (till Oct 16th).

Need to Know Museum hours (and prices) change way too often for our liking, so check individual websites for the latest story. Note that most will choose Monday to close, and that many hold ‘visitor days’ once a week whereby admission prices are waived.

Insider’s Pick Zofia Chometowska, Fundacja Archeologii Fotografii

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, tel. 22 255 0500, www.dsh.waw.pl. Open Tues-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00.

“ However speaking loud and clear, and without any language barriers, are the thematic photo exhibitions” Above, The new exhibition “The Chronicle Workwoman” begins on September 29th.

With an unwieldy name like Dom Spotkań z Historią, this presenter of Central and Eastern European 20th Century history may seem like the preserve of academic intellectuals and history geeks. The name certainly put off my retro-phobic juniors. But drop in for one of its photo exhibitions, and you’ll keep this modest-sized property in view whenever you’re strolling by the Bristol Hotel. Recently founded in 2006, its mission is to present modern history as narrated by the testimonies of different interest groups and various nationalities. The focus is on post-war, a period when textbook versions were doctored and slanted by the communist authorities. The regular meetings and discussions in Polish are of limited relevance to foreigners unless you speak the local lingo. However speaking loud and clear, and without any language barriers, are the thematic photo exhibitions. The current storyline is Warsaw under reconstruction, a fantastic exhibition depicting the post-war rebuilding of the Old Town and the rise of “socialist architecture”. Each black and white photo is accompanied by extensive captions and notes in Polish and English. Previous exhibitions included themes such as daily life under communism, and went well beyond the usual snapshots of empty shelves. Though the on-site bookshop sells mainly Polish books, there are many picture-rich titles telling engaging stories, such as “Ikony PRL” (Icons of the People’s Republic of Poland) with photos of Mick Jagger in Hala Kongresowa during his first concert behind the Iron Curtain. Entrance is free, so all the more reason for getting hooked on eye-contacts with history. (KC)

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MUM'S THE WORD

SMASHING PUMPKINS

Forget ghouls and goblins, Halloween means one thing: pumpkins! This issue our resident SuperMum sharpens the knife and traces the best place to find them. BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

photograph gill boelman-burrows

lthough this country is steeped in many traditions, Halloween is a celebration that seems to have been embraced by only the hippest nightclubs and bars, pouncing on yet another sales ploy to get us through the door. Most definitely not the kind of party we want to take our children to, even if the ghoulish dressing-up thing is right up their street! Indeed, trick-or-treating out here is more tricky than treat. It would involve going up and down in lifts and lengthy explanations to security guards long before getting a finger anywhere near the door bell. Some schools are allowing a dress-up day to honor the event but unless mum is happy to clad the house in cobwebs, don a broomstick and pointy hat, organize a party and open the home to the likes of ketchup stained vampires high on a variety of E-numbered delights, what is available in Warsaw to help our children acknowledge Halloween? Well the answer can be found about ten minutes outside the city center: Warsaw’s very own pick-your-pumpkin farm! Yes, the search for summer's largest watermelon is passé, it’s time to get a glimpse of Poland’s largest pumpkin and search for new pumpkin inspired recipes to spice up the autumn. And as winter looms, you just can’t miss the warm orange glow of a thousand of these things begging for a home. My first visit was last year, and although it was bitterly cold, we still managed to spend a hilarious 90 minutes searching for our perfect pumpkin, getting a brief lesson on how to make the best lantern face and receciving some

well needed advice on pumpkin meat – the part to keep for making the best soup and pie. The majority of the time, however, was spent watching my daughter run around the Halloween maze. At first glace the straw-built labyrinth looked rather small, cumbersome and not for the likes of todays techno-minded toddlers… but we were proved wrong. The maze was a wonderful place for her to run, hide and explore hidden nooks, her senses all the time tantalized by the smell and texture of the straw. As the maze comes to an end children approach a cosy, little hut, home to a few bunny rabbits, pigs and chickens – thankfully not for sale (much to my husband's disappointment). And this year, I have on good authority, a lamb has joined this animal clan. For a small amount we filled the boot of the car with an array of pumpkins and set off home, all of us ready and psyched for a serious session of Halloween-style, pumpkin transformation. Ironically, the Polish translation of Pumpkin is dynia and that is exactly what our pumpkins became. The amount of soup and pie I had to make was our dynia for weeks! The farm is open every day, 9am to 5pm, from mid-September to October 31st, and is located on ul. Przyczółkowa 2K, Powsin. You can organize a group visit in advance which includes a Halloween quiz. Information is available in English. For more details call tel. 692 992 589 or visit www.farmadyn.pl. www.warsawinsider.pl

haunted warsaw

Paranormal activity

A dark, stormy night helps, but even without one Warsaw’s got several haunted houses that’ll send a shiver down your spine... BY alex webber

don’t want to scare you,” said my girlfriend the other day, “but while you were sleeping this old man was hovering over you.” “Well what were you doing letting him in then,” I huffed, clearly not comprehending the situation. “Erm, well, I couldn’t really say no,” she answered, “it was a ghost.” Now in the scheme of things hearing that first thing at dawn comes a close second to having your door booted down by the Vice Squad. And it’s not this old duffers first visit either. The GF has spotted him thrice, and that’s not to mention the ghost of a small child and that of a hunched, crooked woman. Yep, it appears I share my flat with a family of non-rent paying phantoms, and they’re in no hurry to leave. Not that they’re spooking me easily, I haven’t even seen them. In fact, the scariest thing I’ve clocked so far is my reflection on a Sunday morning – now that is scary. Now if I sound like I’m being dismissive about all this ghost malarkey I really don’t meant to. There’s plenty out there who write it off as hocus pocus, but I’m keeping an open mind – for starters, I’m pretty certain that the girlfriend isn’t hallucinating. And let’s face it, if there was one city prone to an invasion of spooks then it’s Warsaw. Raped and ruined by countless passing armies, it’s easy to forget that we do, in all honesty, live

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on a giant graveyard. With that in mind, it came as no surprise at Insider HQ to uncover a raft of supernatural happenings and haunted houses while researching this Halloween issue… ul. Morskie Oko 5 Built in 1927, this abandoned villa was originally constructed for Arpad Chowańczak, a Zakopane native who made his fortune trading fur coats. Fiercely patriotic, his family were involved in underground activities during the war, stashing arms caches and other such business. The ’44 Uprising saw it become a rebel stronghold, and it was during a lull in fighting that a girl named Hanka, who had taken shelter in the villa, was shot by a stray bullet while picking flowers for her insurgent lover. Today, countless sightings have been made of her apparition, with witnesses claiming to have seen her ghost standing forlornly on the balcony to the side. Now to give you two sides to the tale, there are those who declare the story an elaborate hoax – based in Argentina, the owner is apparently considering selling the crumbling property to the developers, and all this hoo-ha about ghosts is simply a ruse invented by preservation societies to scare investors away. On the other hand, an investigation by a Polish TV show, Engima, declared the

“... All that was missing was a couple of bats and a Baskerville hound”

Opposite page, Szeligowska 32, home to a grisly history. This page clockwise from left, ul. Wilcza 2/4, Warsaw's most celebrated ghost; ul. Żelazna 67, empty but not forgotten; ul. Morskie Oko 5, home to wraiths of the uprising.

spot a hotbed of paranormal activity. My own take? Wow, see it yourself. Visit after a few dusk drinks at nearby Regeneracja then slip through the hole(s) in the fence. Crunching through the weeds, mist rising from the ground, I felt like I’d entered the set of a zombie film – all that was missing was a couple of bats and a Baskerville hound. A weird, weird place, and not one I was going to linger around. ul. Szeligowska 32 Out in the nether reaches of Bemowo, down a dark, twisting road, this creepy house could be straight out of one of those horror flicks starring Christopher Lee. And I kid you not, as we bumped down the driveway, day turned to night with the tick of the clock. Bleak and shadowy, this farmstead has a grisly story dating from the early ’90s. But, while you’d expect events to have been accurately chronicled, they haven’t, hence you’ll find several stories about this place. Some claim a party went wrong, one where the host butchered his guests with an axe before turning a gun on himself. Others talk of a botched robbery which saw a family murdered. Either way, local residents confirm this place as a murder scene, as does a press clipping I’ve kept from Dziennik newspaper. Yet more sources have spoken of the house lying empty since the killings, with every new owner, and even vagrants and squatters, frightened out by unworldly happenings within two to three nights. So imagine our surprise, while poking around by the gateway, to hear a distant door slam and a voice call out: “Who are you, what do you want?” We ran. Palace of Culture This behemoth looks like it belongs in Ghostbusters, and guess what, it really does have its

fair share of ghosts. Aside from the reported sixteen who died during the construction (including one guy allegedly buried alive), countless more people dropped from the top in suicides during the early years of the viewing platform. Their restless phantoms are said to stalk the windy tundra that surrounds the Palace... ul. Żelazna 67 Time plus tragedy equals comedy, or so the saying goes, explaining why so many gory stories are told with an undercurrent of humor. Żelazna hasn’t had the fortune of time, and even if it did, it’d be no laughing matter. Originally, this place caught my interest after a cabbie told me how it’d stood pretty much empty after Poland’s bloodiest bank heist – four people killed, and for the sake of zł. 100,000. According to him, following tenants experienced strange phenomena; for instance, the sound of keyboards tapping when the place was otherwise empty. What Mr. Taxi Driver didn’t tell me was how recent the robbery was: 2001. Whether this empty unit is haunted or not I couldn’t give a hoot, just knowing something so chilling could happen in latter day Warsaw is a sobering thought. ul. Wilcza 2/4 Warsaw’s most famous haunting – or rather ex-haunting. In pre-war times floor 1 (some say floor 2), was manifested by the banshee of a wealthy gent who was bumped off by his servant. Strangely, all sightings of him ceased with the start of the war. Since then though, the ghost of a young German officer has been spotted by some. Now I used to take my daily jog outside (for the sake of a pun I’ll call it my daily exorcize) and never noticed anything; but would I live inside? Rather you than me… Happy Halloween folks. www.warsawinsider.pl

cemeteries of warsaw

grave memories

ou could wait till nightfall on All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich Świętych, November 1st). But you don’t have to. Poles lavish candles and white and yellow chrysanthemums on the graves of their loved ones throughout the year. However, it’s on the evenings of All Saints’ and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny or Dzień Wszystkich Zmarłych, November 2nd) when the cemeteries are besieged by blooms and glimmering candles. Rubbing shoulders with throngs of well-wishers in a sea of flickering flames permeated with a distinct scent of molten wax is a night out to remember. Like numerous Catholic countries, Poland devotes the first two days of November to religious rites and paying respects to the graves of family members. As October draws to an end, locals stock up on znicze, candles in lantern-like containers for shielding the flame from wind and rain. While ex-pats may have imported jack-o’-lanterns and costume parties, the Halloween merrymaking just doesn’t make a dent in the local All Saints’ Day rituals. To partake in this tradition, head to the Wola District, which has some of the most ornate historical cemeteries in

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the capital. To the south of ul. Powązkowska alone, there are six burial grounds for different faiths. The oldest is the 43-hectare Powązki Catholic Cemetery. Established in 1790, an estimated one million are buried here. Among them are royals (relatives of King Stanisław August Poniatowski); heads of states, military and political leaders (Stanisław Wojciechowski, President of Poland); Nobel laureates (Władysław Reymont); and countless accomplished scientists and artists. These eminent citizens can be found along the Avenue of Merit (Aleja Zasłużonych). Even if you’re not interested in the top brass, you’ll still be blown away by the grandeur and artistic styles of the mausoleums and tombstones created by the top sculptors of the time. Neoclassical and Secessionist designs aside, there are also contemporary ones, such as the “camera’s perspective” sculpture at the grave of Krzysztof Kieślowski, the director of the Three Colors film trilogy. Separated by a wall is the Jewish Cemetery. In contrast to the streams of candlelight and foot traffic at Powązki, the Jewish Cemetery is eerily silent. Founded in 1806, it has about 200,000 tombstones, many of which are in a

photograph this page shutterstock. Opposite kit f. chung

Seen as one of the defining points in the native calendar, All Saints' and All Souls' Day sees cemeteries across Poland transform with the night. BY KIT F. CHUNG

“ In contrast to the streams of candle-light and foot traffic at Powązki, the Jewish Cemetery is eerily silent”

forlorn condition – dense undergrowth has rendered some segments inaccessible. Near the entrance, there is a monument depicting pedagogue Janusz Korczak accompanying the children from his orphanage to the cattle trucks that terminated at Treblinka. Next to it, someone has left a toy at the foot of the memorial wall erected for the 1.5 million Jewish children who perished during World War II. Instead of lighting candles at tombstones, the Jewish practice is to leave small rocks or pebbles that signify permanence and continuity in remembrance. Even so, on All Saints’ Day you can buy candles by the entrance if you want to join other well-wishers in leaving a light behind. The Tartar Muslim Cemetery has also assimilated to these November 1 practices. “Their descendants now live all over Poland,” says the caretaker, “it’s on All Saints’ Day when you see the greatest number of candles lit here.” World War II wasn’t kind to this lot; military vehicles trespassed the compound, incurring considerable damage. Established in 1867, it was intended as the final resting place of Muslim soldiers in the Russian army. Later, Polish Tartars originally from the Grand Duchy of Lithuania were also buried here. Though small in size, the cemetery tells a poignant tale of wanderers aching to go home. On the headstones, names of faraway territories are carved below exotic surnames. One epitaph spells out the sentiment succinctly: “Sleep peacefully in this grave, and may you dream of the Caucasus”. To the south of the Jewish Cemetery, the Augsburg Protestant and Protestant Reformed cemeteries stand shoulder to shoulder. Both were founded in 1792. The former has the family tomb of the Wedel’s, the chocolate kings of Warsaw. It also stands out for its imposing chapels, namely that of the Halpert and Jung clans, and one crafted from cast-iron. In both there are scores of tombstones inscribed in foreign languages, such as English, French, German and Russian. At the Protestant Reformed sector, we bumped into fans of Stefan Żeromski. Together, we located the writer’s plain but stately grave under a willow tree. This cemetery is said to be the most liberal in granting a plot to those of varying spiritual inclinations, and that approach is evident in the differing designs of the graves: from a Celtic cross, to a child’s grave sans crucifix but vibrant with

colorful toy windmills. Moving east from the Powązkowska area, you’ll come to another cluster of cemeteries along ul. Wolska. The Orthodox Cemetery was founded in 1834 when Warsaw’s other graveyards could no longer cope with the increased number of Orthodox believers that arrived after the The November Uprising (1830-1831). In more recent times, sections were allocated to those who worked on the Palace of Culture, Red Army soldiers and other Russian natives. Though not as famous as Powązki, this site is replete with historical and artistic masonry of all sizes. Further down the road, the Warsaw Insurgents Cemetery bears the ashes of casualties from the Warsaw Uprising. Polish nationals who died in service to the country during combat are interred in the Military Cemetery. There are also cemeteries dedicated to foreign forces. The Italian Army Cemetery is a small compound exposed to open skies. On it stand rows of identical white gravestones inscribed with the names and ranks of the over 2,000 Italians killed on Polish soil during the two world wars. The Cemetery Mausoleum of the Russian Army, located near the airport, has the mass graves of over 21,000 soldiers who didn’t survive the orders to liberate Warsaw during WWII. No doubt, it’s a solemn period, but it’s also a time for unity with family, friends and strangers joined together to keep alive the memories of the souls who have come and gone. Augsburg Protestant ul. Młynarska 54/56 (Daily 7:00-19:00) Cemetery Mausoleum of the Russian Army ul. Żwirki i Wigury 10 (Open all hours) Italian Army ul. Marymoncka 40 (Daily 10:00-17:00) Jewish ul. Okopowa 49/51 (Mon-Thurs 10:00-17:00, Fri 9:00-13:00, Sun 9:00-16:00) Military ul. Powązkowska 43/45 Orthodox Cemetery ul. Wolska 138/140 (Daily 8:00-18:00) Protestant Reformed ul. Żytnia 42 (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00) Powązki Catholic Cemetery ul. Powązkowska 14 (Daily 8:00-18:00) Tartar Muslim ul. Tatarska 8 (Tues, Fri, Sun 10:00-16:00) Warsaw Insurgents ul. Wolska 174/176 (Open all hours)

www.warsawinsider.pl

Markets

Do’s and Don’t’s

The Free Market

Be a local for a day and come rummage through a defunct stadium for out-ofproduction gems and junks.

BY KIT F. CHUNG

“T

his is like 20 years ago,” comments Ola, a Polish friend checking out the scene with me for the first time. Ever since I started showing off on Facebook the retro items I’ve hauled back from streets and bazaars, several of my Polish friends have been intrigued enough into tagging along to check out such “treasure troves”. I relocated to Warsaw a decade ago, a time when it was still possible to witness the exotic and bizarre atmosphere at the old stadium-turned-bazaar in Praga. Now, alas, it’s been developed into a spanking new world-class playing field. But before this it was the one-stop shop where you could buy anything, Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 1

from caviar to AK-47’s. So I am told. Today, the Olimpia Stadium has taken over that function. Sorry, no military-grade firepower, though I have at least seen a trader firing off a sports air rifle. Olimpia looks rough. It’s certainly no stomping ground for the upper crust but I’ve never had any trouble. No one accosts you to buy damskie buty (ladies’ shoes), and most vendors don’t mind you inspecting the goods without buying. Situated to the northeast of the city center, the Olimpia Stadium no longer hosts athletes. But on Sunday's it springs to life, transformed into an open-air department store of sorts. At first glance, it looks like a chaotic junkyard. But there is order to this madness. The center asphalt road from the main entrance roughly divides the market into two segments. To the left, you’ll find brand new stock like shoes, fishing gear, clothes, toiletries and beauty products. Interspersed among them are tables laden with seasonal fruits and veg, bread, cheese and sausages. I tend to ignore the new and make a beeline for the used goods section on the right. Tableware, electronics, books, jewelry, clothes and shoes, toys, tools and more are laid out on plastic sheets on the ground. Many of the sellers here are regulars, while those set up outside the fence along al. Prymasa Tysiąclecia seem to be mom and pop’s clearing out the clutter from their homes. Ola, like me, was scouting for tableware from the PRL period. I normally bail out from sensory overload after an hour of browsing. Do expect to encounter anything from a drunk slumped over this wares, a roaming “salesman” wielding an electric chainsaw to immaculately dressed retirees selling off some “old new stock” of threads and ropes. Everyone lights up as they please, puffing exotic fumes that make me feel light-headed. There are recurring talks to close places like Olimpia, and while some locals shun such places, there are loyal regulars for whom shopping here is a way of life. Who knows when the bulldozers will come charging in. Check it out before it’s gone. Olimpia Market ul. Górczewska and al. Prymasa Tysiąclecia

photographs, this page by anna j. kutor. Opposite page, M.Blaszczak, Tor Służewiec

1. Rain or shine, a pair of Wellington boots is the footwear for negotiating mud and puddles. 2. Have small change. Even handing over a zł. 20 note for a zł. 5 purchase can get the seller in a fluster. 3. Vendors have a built-in sensor to ID the newcomers who are not aware of market prices. If you don’t speak Polish, it helps to have a local with you. 4. Don’t bargain with the granny. If she wants zł. 10 for a pitcher, give it to her even if you’re confident of bringing the price down 50%. What are you going to do with that precious five zlots? It won’t even get you a coffee back home. Granny can stretch it further.

sports

HORSES FOR COURSES

With the season reaching its climax at the end of October, the Insider takes time out for a day at the races... BY DAVE INGHAM

y motto when it comes to Warsaw is always “expect the unexpected,” because you can never be sure until you get there what something is going to be like. And the horse racing experience is certainly no different, at least that was my assumption. Located on ul. Puławska, in the capital’s Mokotów district, Służewiec race track is just a short tree-lined walk from the last stop of the number 4 tram. First opened on June 3, 1939, it was at the time the largest and most modern course of its kind in the whole of Europe. And as I made my way towards the entrance on a glorious day, with Warsaw basking in the glory of another Indian summer, I can’t say I was bubbling with excitement, more apprehension that this would be nothing like the horse racing I’d known back home. But as soon as I caught a glimpse of the track through the trees I felt that little surge of adrenalin. There’s nothing quite like live sport to get the blood racing. Having decided on the princely sum of zł. 200 as the necessary amount to take with me (just in case...) I was astounded to find that the cost of entry was a mere zł. 5 plus an extra zł. 2.50 for a programme detailing the day's runners and riders. And once inside I was delighted to find that despite my reservations it was in almost every way like the tracks I’d been to in England. As at every course the betting booths, where most of the money changes hands, were crowded with men that looked like they’d seen better days, nervously twitching while exchanging tips and studying the form guide. But the rest of the attendees were a complete

cross section of the capital’s inhabitants, with babcias running after kids and young couples looking dreamily into each others eyes, mixing easily with the hardened gamblers. For many it looked like it might be their first time at a track but everyone certainly still seemed to be enjoying the day out. But of course what you really want to know is did I win? Well... it’s not the winning it’s the... no, I don’t believe that either. So for the first race I decided to pick a horse based on form, and went with the British-owned “Kwiksle,” who had come second, last time out. Unfortunately for me when the horses paraded in front of the crowd, good old Kwiksle was at the back getting aggressive with the stable hand. No doubt he used up a fair bit of his much-needed reserves right there because in the grand scheme of things the nag eventually came in a disappointing 5th. For the next race I changed tactics and waited for the pre-race parade before opting to go off looks and temperament. I put the unusual sum of zł. 9 (for some reason you can’t bet zł. 10) on the handsome, strong looking “Muszelka,” who honorably managed to achieve the feat of finishing dead last. You win some, you lose some. That’s when I realized this gambling game isn’t for me. I still managed to enjoy the next few races though before making my exit, glowing with the knowledge that Warsaw had yet again surprised me by delivering a most memorable day. Służewiec Race Track ul. Puławska 266, tel. 22 543 9500, www.torsluzewiec.pl

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Relics of the prl (1952-1989)

Lotos

You’ll know of pl. Konstytucji, gosh, you may even secretly love Konstytucji – and yes, now it’s been tidied up, there is an element of charm to its Socialist mosaics and monumental lights. But the thing is, pl. Konstytucji was always meant to be likeable, and always meant to be photogenic. This was, after all, a prototype project, and its landmark square was where parades and ceremonies would often pass through. In layman’s terms, this was the presentable side of Soc Realist architecture. Less frilly, less arty, was pl. Hallera on the other side of the water – here was the Stalinist style in its rawest, most honest form. Constructed between 1950 and 1960, its 50 hectare footprint was designed to hold 25,000 people. Early newspaper reports celebrated the superhuman feats involved in its construction, with papers like Trybuna Ludowa trilling over work details who exceeded their work quotas by up to 220%. But the truth was pl. Hallera was anything but a model development. Many of the new residents were plucked from backwater Poland, with features like electricity and running water hitherto unknown to them. Crime flourished, and the area became synonymous with vandalism, violence and theft – with much of the stolen booty later emerging at the not-so-distant Bazar Różyckiego. The fact that many of the buildings remained un-plastered until late in the 70s only added to the sense of underlying misery and menace. Amazingly though, what was originally known as pl. Leńskiego has had a thorough airbrush. Once considered a no-go zone, Hallera 2011 is back on form, and today its sandblasted facades and tree-lined boulevards almost dazzle under the sun. Looking classically Orwellian, here’s an unsung slice of PRL Poland. (AW)

Say cult 60s TV in the West and images of Batman leap to mind. Out in Poland though, the word association prize goes to Czterej Pancerni i Pies, a black and white series following the fortunes of four tank men and their dog – Szarik. Set in WWII, it became a hit across the Eastern Bloc, mixing humor with high drama and overt propaganda. Pick up the box set from EMPiK. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 1

Photographs: from Top Agencja forum, kevin demaria, Courtesy of TVP

Welcome to Hell-era

Opened in the 1950’s, it’s hard to imagine much has changed in Lotos (ul. Belwederska 2); you get the feeling the permed oldies working here have been here since the start – and in truth, they probably have. Now there’s two parts to this place, and while the bar around the corner (green Formica, chrome stools) looks glum, the restaurant on Belwederska is glorious: an Oriental style blended with Moscow-red colors and drooping aspidistras. Snoop around, and you may even spy a photo of the Stones captioned, “Thanks for the Golonka.” And while there's doubt if Mick and Keef dined here, don’t let that stop you: the steak tartar has a fan club of its own. (AW)

join us

TOP FASHION DESTINATION KLIF SHOPPING CENTER

UL. OKOPOWA 58/72, 01- 042 WARSAW PHONE: 22 531 45 00, W W W .KLIF.PL

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Strolling the neighborhood praga

the devil wears praga

A world away from the ivory towers and gated compounds of downtown, Old Praga finds itself in the throes of a radical renaissance. Swaggering with stories, this once vilifed area faces a bright, buoyant future. BY ALEX WEBBER Photographs by kevin demaria

Top, A typical Praga street scene, with traders hawking trinkets and treasures. Bottom, Home to 1,200 flats, the Sausage Dog building is a nightmare for Poczta Polska - each residence shares the same address: Kijowska 11.

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raga: Goethe once referred to it as, “the prettiest gem in the stone crown of the world.” He was, regrettably, writing about the Czech capital, not the Warsaw suburb found due east of the river. What would he have made of the Warsaw incarnation? Probably not much. Why? Because there really wasn’t much there. While the oldest recorded mention of Praga, PL dates from 1432, during Goethe’s lifetime the Warsaw district was little more than a sad, shattered shell. Left in ruins by the Russkies in 1794, Napoleon added to the devastation thirteen years later when he ordered surviving buildings be pulled down to shore up the city’s defences. It wasn’t until half a century later that the Industrial Revolution brought new bounce to Praga, bloating the area with chimney stacks and workshops. Since those times Praga’s fortunes have oscillated greatly; while it survived the outright destruction that concluded WWII, it’s fate seemed sealed by a post-war plan to repopulate the district with out-of-towners and ne’er-do-wells. Following communism, while the rest of Warsaw fast-tracked itself on the road to riches, Praga was left in the deep freeze, a rotting remnant of the toxic past. But the world’s a strange animal, and Praga stranger still. With the area in its death rattle the unexpected happened: regeneration, growth and a new lease of life. Forced out the center by rising rents Warsaw’s emerging band of artists and creatives claimed Praga as HQ, lending the place a ‘spirit of now’. Once wretched and repellent, today’s Praga is a hotbed of art and innovation. With the rest of the capital deep in the process of homogenization, Praga stands proudly separate – an area where anything can happen (and usually does).

“ With the area in its death rattle the unexpected happened: regeneration, growth and a new lease of life” Al. Solidarności Praga begins here! Travelers in olde worlde Europe were once warned of hostile territories by signs declaring, ‘Here be Dragons’. No need for that here, though signs proclaiming the presence of brown bears could well be an idea. Since 1976 a bear called Miraż has lived on a glum island outpost between the zoo and the main road, with two more docile creatures – Turnia and Tatra – added to the pen in ’82. A popular meeting point, you’ll usually find a crowd of infants gathered round bear island, tempting the cuddly beasts with slices of cake. Onwards, and the onion domed Orthodox Church is something of a Praga icon, and a throwback to when Warsaw fell under the hegemony of Imperial Russia. Unveiled in 1869, its interiors are a feast of excess, and include several bits of bling salvaged from the Nevsky Cathedral that stood on pl. Piłsudskiego. Equally impressive is St. Florian’s Cathedral across the road; touting a 10,000 capacity, it was obliterated during the German

strolling the neighborhood praga retreat, and only rebuilt in 1970. But before you get here, you’ll be passing Liceum im. Króla Władysława IV, a school whose alumni include pedagogue, author and martyr, Janusz Korczak – murdered in Treblinka along with the orphans in his care. Visit at noon and you’ll hear the clock tower playing a rendition of ‘the Praga song’ – whatever that may be. ul. Panieńska As you make your way south toward the river you’ll go by the hospital. Earmarked for destruction by the retreating Nazis, it only survived after all spare dynamite was used to flatten St. Florian’s. A reminder of the occupation can be found on the corner of Panieńska and Jasińskiego in the form of a wartime bunker. Indeed, as the bullet holes imprinted on nearby walls suggest, Praga too saw its fair share of action during the ’44 Uprising. For six days the locals valiantly battled, eventually being liberated in August by the Kościuszko division. As we all know, the left side of Warsaw wasn’t so lucky. ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie Boasting the most impossible address in Warsaw, the fearsome monument to the Kościuszko Infantry Division recalls the sacrifice made during their aborted attempt to relieve the west bank of Warsaw during the Uprising. Formed in the Soviet Union, this Polish unit was the first to enter Praga in 1944, and later fought in the Battle of Berlin. ul. Sierakowskiego Positioned on the crossroads of Sierakowskiego and Okrzei stands the former Jewish Hall of Residence, a student dorm whose inter-war boarders included Menachem Begin – the future PM of Israel. It’s for another purpose it’s known though, and a plaque recalls its use as an office/prison by the Soviet Secret Police – NKVD. The tablet commemorates all held, tortured and murdered here between 1944-1956. ul. Kłopotowskiego Light relief and a bit of earache comes courtesy of five chaps tooting into musical instruments. The Monument of the Praga Band was unleashed on the public five years back, and toot they most certainly will. Send an SMS (follow the instructions on the drum), and the installation jacks into life with pre-war songs piped from speakers. To really get the most of it, swing by at night when these lads are lit up in wacky disco colors. Across the street, between Floriańska and Jagiellonśka, the custard colored building you see is a veterans’ house used by Russian widows in the wake of the 1863 January Uprising – a calling it served right until 1924. In its heyday Stara Praga could have been described as a cultural melting pot, and contributing to this was a Jewish presence which made up approximately 40% of the local population. Their primary place of worship was a synagogue located where the kids play area is today. Used as a delousing center for German troops during the war, it just about survived the war, only to be bulldozed in 1961. Nowadays, the only surviving element is a rusting fence. Signs of the Jewish past have not been completely erased, however: Teatr Baj down the road, for instance, served as a Jewish Educational Center, while opposite Hotel Hetman stands a former bathhouse. www.warsawinsider.pl

strolling the neighborhood praga ul. Targowa There’s an element of chaos to Praga’s main commercial thoroughfare, and that’s exaggerated by a looping soundtrack of sirens and car horns. Having crossed the road, take a look at the trio of buildings on Targowa 50/52. The white one on the end dates from 1818, making it the oldest building in the district, and is set to become the Museum of Praga once the builders have finished their renovation. To the side of it, an alleyway leads into the legendary Bazar Rożyckiego. Established in 1901, it’s a must for urban anthropologists, with approximately 250 stalls selling everything from delicious pierogi to everyday goods of unverified origin. ul. Ząbkowska Praga’s spiritual gateway. One thing you’re not going to miss as you start your way down the street is the Miasto Aniołów project, a collection of Smurf colored angels perched on a wall. Actually, you might well miss them, and that’s because this 2010 installation has been repeatedly targeted by thieves. Where once there were four, now sits just one – and on the Insider’s visit that had been vandalized courtesy of a load of white Dulux… either that, or a very sick pigeon. More thief proof has been the stencil, sticker and graffiti art that occupies the walls and courtyards, with Ząbkowska 5 being a particularly good example. The courtyard here has become a canvas of sorts, with wall space featuring everything from mosaics made from bottle tops, to life size stencils of bopping babcias. Unperturbed by this outbreak of freestyle expression stands the Virgin Mary, and she’s another typical feature of Praga. The majority of these shrines to Mary sprung up during Nazi occupation, a time when courtyards were regarded as safer gathering points than churches. Seen as a “public affirmation of faith,” they brought with them a sense of “security, solidarity and even freedom,” and remain to this day carefully tended and often intricately decorated. Find them in practically every courtyard. Less latent are traces of Judaism. Visit the courtyard at number 12 and you can just about make out the outline where a mezuzah once hung from the doorframe – find it in on the far left hand corner of the yard, defiled by some phallic etchings left by someone of clearly borderline intelligence. ul. Brzeska Notorious, infamous, call it what you will. Brzeska has the ignominious honor of being known round town as Warsaw's most dangerous street. Is it that bad? Of course not, but just to be safe it's probably best not to bowl around with maps and camera gear like my sidekick and I. While we escaped open menace, we did attract looks, as well as some politely phrased requests for several cigarettes. If you're really brave, walk deep into the second courtyard beyond the gate at 17A. A sculpture of songstress Amy Winehouse was unveiled in October, and if you head to the left you'll find some cool wall art painted by the locals. ul. Kijowska Short in height, long in length it's no surprise to find the 70's block on Kijowska nicknamed the 'Jamnik' – Sausage Dog. Spanning 508 meters in length, this block of flats is the longest structure in Warsaw, and achieved cult status when it was featured as the backdrop in the Travis video Love Will Come Through.

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Considered by many as an architectural atrocity, the irony here is that it was originally built to hide the eyemares behind from the prying eyes of the new arrivals at Wschodnia. And talking of new arrivals, don't be surprised to see a fair few boisterously making their way to the Jamnik to enjoy the hospitality at Kalinka. Since opening this commie-style bar has become first port-of-call among returning conscripts who've completed national service. ul. Ząbkowska… Back to Ząbkowska, namely the Koneser Vodka Factory at 27/31. Built in 1897, it served as Warsaw's premier distillery till its closure a few years back. But just because the factory has ceased production, this place is far from dead. Entered through spooky neo-Gothic gates, this red brick complex currently serves as a pseudo cultural center with artists workshops, a smattering of bars and some trendy home design stores. There's even a branch of the Praga Museum here, though whether or not it’s worth your time is a question of personal taste. On my visit, the exhibit was dedicated to the history of scouting, with the display limited to banners, badges and a collection of knots. That might be of interest to a serial stalker, but it's not to most. Other past exhibits have been of greater attraction, and have included subject matter such as the now defunct Stadion Dziesięciolecia. Even so swathes of Koneser currently lie empty, derelict or wrapped under scaffolding. Enjoy the Bladerunner background while you can, work is underway to transform the factory into Class A offices, loft accommodation and luxury boutiques. Back to Targowa and while you’re there give number 63 a look – serving as temporary home to Polish Radio after the war, it was here that Holocaust survivor Władysław Szpilman (a.k.a The Pianist) resumed his career after liberation. As for the Soviet liberators, they find themselves commemorated by way of the ‘Four Sleepers Monument’ on the crossroads of Solidarności. Sculpted in Berlin, the statue was plonked here in 1945 on top of a base designed by the prolific Bohdan Lachert – the architect who would later design the Socialist Paradise known as Muranów. Celebrating the myth of Polish-Soviet co-operation, the monument – like the Palace of Culture – is a stern reminder of just who wore the pants during the Communist era.

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Top, Wedding dresses are a big seller at Praga's bazaar, with other loot ranging from pungent aftershaves to retro sex shop signs. Bottom, still scuffed around the edges, Praga retains a roguish quality that's reflected by many of its broken buildings.

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food Smalec

“ The butcher’s petite female assistant looked at me sheepishly as she hacked a pig’s head into two” Smalec (lard) - Served with bread. Visually it looks harmless, but the amount of fat should give the heart a good fright.

Flaki

Czernina – A duck’s blood soup that was bad news for male egos back in the days when nobility roamed the land. It was mentioned in Pan Tadeusz, (the epic poem written by Adam Mickiewicz) that in aristocratic households, parents said “no” to the proposal for their daughter’s hand in marriage by ladling out czernina to the unsuccessful suitor. This practice has ceased, for practical reasons, I believe. To DIY the soup, you need access to the blood of freshly slaughtered fowls. And that’s no easy feat in the city. But the gory element of the soup isn’t the blood or offal bits bobbing about, it’s the pairing of fruits and vinegar with red blood cells. I’ve not seen this soup in Warsaw’s restaurants but have encountered them on occasion in and around Poznań. Flaki (tripe) - Most supermarkets have this in various flavors, including a very contemporary Mexican accent. Dunk the gelatinous blob into a pot, add a few tomatoes if you like, bring to a boil and they’re ready to go.

Searching for grub to spook out the guests at your Halloween do? Look no further than good old traditional Polish cuisine. BY KIT F. CHUNG

e’ve lost our guts. Softened by kebabs, kotlet schabowy and pierogi, many of us can no longer stomach the dishes that were no biggie a generation or two ago. We’re not talking about the slippery and slithery nosh plonked in front of Indiana Jones at the Temple of Doom, but routine stuffs like liver, tongue, and hooves. Like other cuisines of the world, Poles have a nose-to-tail cooking tradition to coax offal and less meaty tips of the beast into palatable morsels so that no edible parts of the animal go to waste. Yet perhaps for the uninitiated, the encasement of animal protein in gelatin, such as carp in jelly, produces the most instantaneous recoil reaction. Here are some Polish dishes, from starters to desserts, you can present at your table to see what guts your guests have. Most of the items are available in delis and restaurants.

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Salceson (head cheese) – At Hala Mirowska, the butcher’s petite female assistant looked at me sheepishly as she hacked with a hatchet a pig’s head into two. Ears, cheeks, snouts and the rest are essential ingredients in salceson. Buy ready-made ones if you’re not into head hunting. Nóżki – The tenacious pig’s trotters are boiled till wobbly, then cooled to solidify and served with vinegar. Many local contacts claim to have grannies who make a mean nóżki. So, don’t dismiss it until you’ve tried granny’s production. Ryba w galarecie (jellied fish, usually carp) – A fish-jelly that often make an appearance at the meat-free Christmas Eve dinner. Despite being something locals love to hate, it still shows up in restaurants as a cold starter. You know you’ve become native when you eat this willingly and without feeling squeamish. Makowiec – Poppyseed cakes are routine but they score some drama value. When consumed in vast quantities, these black seeds are hallucinogenic. Hence, in Polish folk culture, the seeds were used in establishing contact with the ‘other world’.

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fright bites

Kaszanka (blood sausage) – A common item in the sausage section, they are usually stuffed with barley, liver, herbs and pig’s blood.

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . American & Tex-Mex . . . . Asian & Indian. . . . . . . . . . Balkan & Russian. . . . . . . Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Greek/Middle Eastern. . . International & Fusion. . .

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Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . . Kosher & Jewish. . . . . . . . Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

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The following symbols (A1) map location ideal for business are a rough indicator as to how much you meetings take a date can expect to pay for child friendly a main course. vegetarian friendly $ mains under zł. 30 delivery $$ mains breakfast menu zł. 30-55 free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2010 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

L’Arc Varsovie ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest.

photograph courtesy of l’arc

“ Without doubt this lovely little eatery has to go straight in to the top ten best places to go for a meal”

rench cuisine has been noticeable by its absence on Warsaw’s culinary map in recent times but with the opening of L’Arc the capital now has that particular gap covered. Located on ul. Puławska, this little restaurant easily stands out from the crowd with its lovely candle lit tables and beautiful pale blue and black interiors. Upon entering we decided upon the one table that happens to be positioned next to the open patio windows, allowing us to watch the streets many characters wander by while safe in the ambient surroundings of the restaurant. And after ordering a couple of glasses of wine, we were debating as to what to eat when we got our first surprise of the evening, as a bearded old man leaned in through the window and asked ever so politely “can I just borrow you candle,” and proceeded to light his cigarette before bidding us a kind farewell and disappearing into the night. Our second surprise came when an ordinary looking guy sat down at the restaurant’s piano and played a wonderful version of Kate Bush’s “Wuthering Heights,” before going on to provide a soundtrack to the evening with numerous other hits from the likes of Marvin Gaye and Elton John. But of course as with any restaurant the key to success has to be the food and L’Arc certainly delivers on this count, as not only do the dishes look exquisite they also taste wonderful. Originally I had planned to take the signature dish, lobster, but after weighing up the merits of having to pick one of the poor little fellas in the fish tank I instead went for Salmon tartar followed by lamb shank, while the lady took fettuccine with beef sirloin, Roquefort, and artichoke hearts, followed by the sirloin duo. And my God it was good, with perfectly cooked meat that slipped off the bone and just enough on the plate to fill you but at same time leave you begging for more. Without doubt this lovely little eatery has to go straight in to the top ten best places to go for a meal in Warsaw, as in terms of service, atmosphere and taste L’Arc is pretty much faultless. (DI)

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EATING OUT cafés

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high. Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open SunMon 12:00-21:00, Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00, Fri 10:00-22:00, Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware! One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest. Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00. A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles. Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559. Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior. Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. Café Colombia (D4) Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 628 0226. Open 7:00-23:00. An exotic, colorful café that gains approval for the use of fine-grade Colombian coffee apparently purchased direct from the producer; the luxury Hacienda Bombona is particularly noteworthy. Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6 , tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop. For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing. Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00. This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display. Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Roskosz ul. Wiolinowa 2a, tel. 22 111 5015, www.caferoskosz.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Ursynów is a bit of a dead end when it comes to social life, so a big welcome to Rokosz, a

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cool café with retro interiors that scream ’80s Eastern Bloc. Decorated with chunky phones and primary colors it’s a cheeky look at the good ole’ days. Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the Frenchspeaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long. Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts. Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:0024:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing >>

EATING OUT >> environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. One of the true pleasures of spring is the Coffee Karma terrace; order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101. Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day. Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-to last customer. An intriguing cross between a chilled-out bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or post-work sheesha. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty. Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart. Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięszców 32. Open 10:00-19:00. A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes. Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Café” Winner Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids.

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Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting. Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are

cafÉs

updates

available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds. Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77. Finally open (just as we went to press), and further evidence that the Wilcza/Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Mito ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www. mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:0023:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00. Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must!

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www. mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00. Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffee-colored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road.

Lunch time

Take-away option

Cocktails

Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669. Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same. Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in >>

Quality

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

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EATING OUT >> a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl. Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close. Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from. Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open MonFri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods. Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00. Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses. Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132. Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers. Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for

other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack. Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for. Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00.An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers. To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended. Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00. Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouthwatering selection of goodies for your sugar fix.

plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office. Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

wine bars

C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł.9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this is guaranteed to be the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place in Hoxton, London.

TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) Al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl. Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davis recorded in the 80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak.

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner

Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00. A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and

Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes.

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cafes/Wine bars Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749,

www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul.Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-freelunch deal accompanied by a perfectlymatched wine. Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124. Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously

portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinobilia w Rogatce (E7) Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, tel 022 423 4904, www.vinobilia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-21:00. Run by Frenchmen and >>

OLD TOWN ATMOSPHERE STUNNING PATIO FINE DINING AND SOMMELIER’s SELECTION

LA ROTISSERIE RESTAURANT IN MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW Kościelna 12 T: 22 531 60 00 E: reception.leregina@mamaison.com FB: www.facebook.com/MamaisonHotelLeReginaWarsaw

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EATING OUT >> set in a pre-war building. Choose among 12 different varieties of wine from all over France and nibbles. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe. Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room restaurant is spectacularly situated directly opposite Łazienki Park in the Pałac Sobańskich, a prewar villa beautifully renovated some ten years ago. the addition of Executive Chef Jacek Grochowina has upped the ante substantially. Under his tutelage the restaurant snagged all of the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night. $$$

Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2010 “Best European Cuisine” Winner Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www. bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent, especially the herring. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure

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updates

to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$

Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan either. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520. Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last >> guest. This place has been around since

EATING OUT >> 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Now Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back. Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva who sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na

Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3-5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8)

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ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection BEST of dishes from “Old Poland.” WAWA 2010 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse

polish/african/american has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Dinner Deal” Winner Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$

african

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The most central of Warsaw’s African options, and quite possibly the best. The Nigerian chef here has 35 years kitchen experience, and his menu includes suspects like goat’s head and stews. Good luck with the gizzard though. $$

Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:00Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) 21:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open or evening away from the city. Just about Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. twenty minutes outside of the center, this Sometimes all you need is a good steak to lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine make everything okay. This is the place to wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish :DUVDZ,QVLGHUBUHNODPDB [ PP SGI find one. $$ food. $$

american & tex-mex

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a largescreen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Breakfast Deal” Winner Mississippi Blues (H4) ul. Meksykańska 3, tel. 605 887 857. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Set down a side street in Saska, Zippy Blues >> is tiny, and we fully anticipate that being a

Food is our passion. Preparing, serving and enjoying a delicious meal is always inspiring. The essential elements are: honest cooking, which can be traced back to the freshest ingredients; a great selection of wines, a welcoming atmosphere - we want our guests to feel at home, not to stand on display.

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22 Żurawia str., 00-515 Warsaw, tel. +48 (22) 502 31 18, opening times: Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00 www.butcheryandwine.pl/en, www.facebook.com/butcheryandwine

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EATING OUT >> problem once word gets out just how good it is. Decorated sparingly, the menu here includes homemade sauces, bread baked on-site, tasty Koreb beer as well as mains that number fantastic burgers and ribs of legend. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www. warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian & indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese.

REVIEW

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

“ No one mentioned the words ‘spicy, please’ so it was refreshing to have the house set the spice standard quite high”

nassuming is the only way to describe Suparom junior, or Suparom II as it is called by one of the original Thai restaurants in Warsaw. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, it is decidedly understated. Only one bedecked fivefoot statue in glittering traditional clothing and welcome pose. But don’t be fooled. There are good reasons behind its reputation as a Luncheonette favorite: exquisite cuisine. And flawless service. Year after year. A real diamond in the rough. The Luncheonettes sampled little barristers’ wigs of squid arranged in a colorful, fresh and spicy salad and two-hanky Tom Yam Kai soup (a tomato broth base with lemongrass and barely cooked vegetables). No one mentioned the words ‘spicy, please’ so it was refreshing to have the house set the spice standard quite high. Unusual for Warsaw. Do bring extra Kleenex and prepare for a pleasant cleansing of the sinuses. The Fried Rice with Pork came topped with a deep fried egg on top, not the most appetizing look, but perfect in consistency and freshness when mixed in. Pad Thai and Pad Khi Mao rice noodle dishes, which are not spicy, are ideal for novice Thai luncheonettes. Lightly prepared and flavorful, there is always a bit of exotica in each dish, like the silver ear mushrooms in the latter which are slightly sweet with a fun texture. Suparom’s Green Curry is, according to one Luncheonette regular, the best in the world. Such a superlative begs for challenge, but none came from this group. While authenticity of the tastes was impossible to assess, none of us having actually visited Thailand, everyone agreed that if this isn’t how it is ‘back home’, that does not make it any less delicious. Don’t be put off by the shabby exterior. Great even for luncheon-etting alone (half of the nine tables were taken by singles), it is conveniently situated in southern Warsaw, near Metro Służew, out of the horrors of centrum traffic. A big khob khun maak to the Thai serving staff and cooks for a most pleasant and welcoming lunching experience. Suparom Thaifood II ul. Walbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl

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photograph by bartosz bajerski

american/asian looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ‘95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance. The food is top quality, and the prices fair. And those looking for something a little more high end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see p.32).

Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $

Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$

India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $

Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. As a lavish gallery and restaurant in one, Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$

Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00. Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce. Ideal for business meets. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Brunch Deal” Winner

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake. It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $

Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is >> amongst the best in the city. $$

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EATING OUT >> Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The wait-

ers are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Asian Cuisine” Winner Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Royal India (B3) ul. Jana Pawła II 45A, lokal 43, tel. 22 487 7077, www.royalindia.waw.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. They didn’t cover themselves in glory when they first launched, but what was once regarded as one of Warsaw’s worse curries has shown signs of surprising improvement. The butter chicken gets good marks here, even if the still, solemn atmosphere doesn’t. $$ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. Disregarding the wires sticking out of walls and the builders roaming about,

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what looks like a construction site is actually a highly good curry. The menu is more limited than most, but includes a great murgh tikka masala. If you’re not a fan of power drill acoustics give it a couple of weeks till their fit-out is finished. $ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Newcomer” Winner Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888.

asian/balkan/french/greek Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce. Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Summer’s back, and with it one of the best gardens around. Enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

british

Kogel Mogel ul. Powstancow Śląskich 106/lok5, tel. 22 408 1101, www.restauracjakogelmogel.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. So it doesn’t sound British, and with a location in Bemowo you’ve got to wonder how many Brits will even bother visiting. But visit they should. Following an urbane, minimalistic approach to design it looks nothing like your standard ex-pat haunt, with black and white accents and post-modern touches. As for the food, it’s a knock-out. Excellent English breakfasts, homemade burgers and rhubarb crumble to name but a few, all rinsed down nicely with a selection of Brit-import booze. Cooked with a modern flair, it’s totally worth the trek.

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining BEST WAWA 2010 clients. $$ “Best Service” Winner L’Arc ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc. pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/ black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ La Table ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. 22 622 9214, www.latable.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00. La Table looks classy, with rich, dark colors and the kind of design currently in favor with VIP rooms and cocktail bars. Bossing the kitchen is Thomas Rubio, and he’s designed a menu that’s easy to navigate and even easier to enjoy. The desserts are heaven but the mussels are the highlight –

and served in traditional manner alongside French fries. $$ Le Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains underrepresented. Less ceremonial than its competitors, this bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside. Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

greek & middle eastern

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and >> encouraged. $$

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EATING OUT >>

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek

fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Zorba (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.zorba.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$

international & fusion

Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-yourown-ingredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $

Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Deep in Wilanów, this sparking new operation has been an instant hit amongst the meat eating class. Steak is the forte, with the T-Bone for two (zł. 86) a fantastic deal whether you’re going Dutch or not. More dispatches from Bistecca next month, when we send our undercover Luncheonette. $$

Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$

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Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The steaks are beyond reproach inside B&W, a light, bright restaurant which you imagine both celebs and marketing execs using – both mammals were present on our visit. And if the butchery part is spot on, so is the wine angle. Trust the service, they know what’s best. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. On Fridays, the Seafood of the World buffet dinner offers diners an unmatched spread of their favorite treats fresh from the sea. Downtown’s menu features an array of tasty dishes prepared by the InterContinental’s new executive chef Thorsten Hoeck. Languorous Sunday Brunch. $$

Esencja Smaku ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and

international overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. Soon celebrating their first birthday, Flaming are being touted as one of the best places in town. In fact, some insiders claim it the best. Find a strong international offer inside interiors that could have been styled by Ralph Lauren. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:0023:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices. Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best

recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $

Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52, www.groole.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. Good news for the economy diner, Groole serve delicious jacket potatoes in a simple space set through a tight corridor. The choice of fillings is scant, but for price-to-quality it’s impossible to fault. $ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bun- >>

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EATING OUT >> less burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Inside (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 695 940 535, www.inside-restaurant.pl. Open daily 10:00-21:00. A new location with quality food that’s affordable and tasty. You can feel the freshness of ingredients in every bite you take and the staff is nice, friendly and professional. If you’re looking for an international fusion of tastes this is the place for you. Visit their website and you will receive zł.10 off of any order exceeding zł.50 (valid Mon-Fri after 15:00 and Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00). $$ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$

Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep. Bossing it all is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local culinary scene, and his interpretations of French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and handpainted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Love Bagels (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 50, tel. 511 818 957. Open 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. An eat-on-thestreet venture where fresh bagels are handed to customers through a mysterious, little hatch – the New York bagel is spot on. Office delivery as well. $ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open

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daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nomia Restaurant (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. 22 831 4379, www.nomia.waw.pl. Open daily 10:0024:00. Certainly the sexiest place to grab a bite in the New Town Square. Try the fried oyster mushroom, grilled oscypek or duck in orange sauce with apples. Great mojitos! $$

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a

international

updates

cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$

excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:0024:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$

Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words. Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 07:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:0023:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best International Cuisine” Winner Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45,

tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops, or one of several wok choices. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ >>

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Sponsored Feature

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Mixing up elements of fusion with molecular, the orient with Polish, Komar’s menu is something of a modern masterpiece. For instance, why not start with creamy fennel soup with ginger and raspberry foam, before moving to mains that include sea bass served with celery mousse and seaweed salad. Always experimenting with texture and taste, it’s no surprise to find Komar touted as one of the hottest properties on the culinary map. You learn to expect the unexpected in Belvedere, and that applies to the interiors as it does to the rest. On one hand guests can dine amid the plants and creepers, the hidden corners and secret nooks adding a magical, almost ethereal quality to the overall experience. Alternatively, sit in a section opened four years back. French-designed, it’s a cosmopolitan space with crystal chandeliers and sails overhead – grandstand views of the park are naturally included. Other initiatives have also been forthcoming. Brunch, for example, takes place each Sunday afternoon, and has emerged as something of a family favorite. More recent is the Bellunch, a weekday event which give diners a choice of set menus that range from zł. 55 (two courses) to zł. 65 (three courses). And don’t think the regular menus are left to grow old with time, either. “We only use what nature gives us at that time of year,” says Milena Machczyńska, “so we change the menu seasonally to take advantage of the freshest ingredients.” With this in mind, expect star chef Adam Komar to debut a dazzling new menu with the start of October. Miss it? Don’t you dare. Belvedere ul. Agrykoli 1, entrance can be gained from the car park on ul. Parkowa, tel. 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl.

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EATING OUT >> Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails aren’t. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Lunch Deal” Winner Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188,

www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – the mussels are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/

r e s t a u r a c j a

French Chef Thomas Rubio

Summer garden Restauracja La Table ul.Nowogrodzka 38 00-691 Warszawa tel 22 622 92 14 www.latable.com.pl latable@wp.pl opening hours: Mon-Fr lunch 12-15, dinner 17-21:30 Sat 15-21:30

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bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0024:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistrozuzu.pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of

international/italian Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$

year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$

Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$

Dominos Al. Jana Pawła 45A (also at Bukowińska 26C), tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/ delivery only (unless you count the standup table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. $

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is

updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the BEST WAWA neighboring Old Town. $$ 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar. com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549 6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling >>

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EATING OUT >> very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-midnight/last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thincrust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. Decent house wine too. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open MonThurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/ dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel,

Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$

to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:0022:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$

Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Brave the nondescript entrance

Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re

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italian/sushi looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish.

menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$

The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this newly opened restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.

Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval.

Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$

Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian

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EATING OUT >> Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it looks a little unassuming, almost faded. The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity. Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:3020:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $

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Made In Japan (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 31, tel. 22 828 2637, www.madeinjapan.waw.pl. Open Sun-Wed 12:00-23:00; Thurs-Sat 12:00-24:00. This small sushi joint’s menu comes with set dishes of tasty sushi treats that can easily be shared between two. Service is speedy and friendly although the “authentic” Japanese cuisine is largely a Poles domain. Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44. tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools

sushi/kosher/latin by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and BEST cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ WAWA 2010 “Best Sushi” Winner Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

kosher & jewish

U Samuela (B1) ul. Stawki 2, tel. 22 692 6217, www.restauracjausamuela.pl. Open 12:00-

22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-22:00. If nothing else, it’s worth coming here for views that stretch right across town. Set on Floor 38, the Jewish/European menu is inevitably overshadowed by glittering sights outside. With plenty of pork dishes on show, the Jewish authenticity is largely suspect. $$

latin

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Latin Cuisine” Winner Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. et in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s

INDIA CURRY tel. 22 438 93 50/51, Żurawia 22 Street

sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Espana To Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 892 0025, www.espanatotu.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. The younger, more elegant sister of Casa To Tu, find this more formal version in a courtyard off the main drag. Food reports are inconsistent, though we can vouch for the gazpacho. The interior looks the business as well, with a warren of warm chambers decorated in an inimitable Iberian style. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The

The real taste of India www.indiacurry.pl

Business lunch 25 pln

New menu!

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EATING OUT >> rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

seafood

Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. One of the ex-pat hits of 2010, and now suitably enlarged to cope with the custom. Serving fish’n’chips, battered sausage and all the staples of a dart players diet, the Anglophiles running this joint have it down to a tee – with the menu even including deep fried Mars Bars and Snickers. Even better, they’ve a range of import goodies that run from novelty sauces to West Country cider (see oppposite for more details). $ Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

specialty food shops

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese heaven, inc. Local varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00). Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:3021:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Internet ordering also available. Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A bistro/cheese specialist with hard-to-find brands from across Europe. Also cider, conserves, marmalades and meats imported from Italy and France. La Petit France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and

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flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood. Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Lynchburg, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Oliver from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat

Latin/seafood/food shops 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

Samira al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 22 825 0961, www. samira.pl. Lebanese goods inc. chickpeas, grape leaves, flatbreads, pomegranate syrup, hummus, olives, dips etc. Good budget food also served on-site. Wine of Dreams ul. Koszykowa 53, www.wineofdreams.pl. Not

a delicatessen as such, but when the alcohol selection is this good you just can’t ignore it. An exhaustive collection of old and new world wines, but if you speak to any ex-pat and they’ll mention the beer selection: it’s unmatched. There’s a fab choice of world beers (plenty of cider and Belgian brews as well), but the real coup is the amount of lesser known Polish beers. Try the Zwierzyniec.

TOP SHOP African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro.eu.

photograph courtesy of african shop

ooking dark, pokey and somewhat sinister from the outside, the African Shop transpires to be something of a treasure trove of exotica. ‘’Totally excellent,” gushes one Zimbabwean-born Insider, and we’re inclined to share his enthusiasm. On the beverage front there’s everything from Palm juice to West African Fanta, and premium Abyssinian coffee is soon to be added to the offer. Food-wise, and they’ve nailed the whole gamut of beans, flour and soup thickeners, including products like Plaintain Fufu Flour and Cream Palm Nut Oil. Fish, fruit, veg also available, as well as a line in imported cosmetics, hair and beauty products.

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bar profile

Behind The Bar Doors...

This month the Insider catches up with Tomek Wyszomirski, the ebullient partner/ manager of the landmark Porto Praga.

Drink of the Month Chivas Prince 50ml of Chivas Regal 12Y.O 50ml of Apple Juice 2 tablespoons of homemade vanilla sugar Lemon Juice And a dash of elderflower syrup

What’s your favorite bar in the world? I used to work in London, and it was while I was there I fell in love with Montgomery Place on Kensigton Park Rd. I’ve got no idea if it’s still open (Editor: google says yes), but in those days they had this Italian barman – he was amazing... You’d have fifty/ sixty people at the bar, and a hundred bottles of sprits. He’d handle them all, mixing perfect drinks with the precision of a doctor, while all the

time playing to the crowd. It’s 100% the best bar I’ve ever visited. I’ve got a hangover, help! Well, I’d recommend spending time with a girl if you’ve got a hangover. Ha ha, that’s a real bartenders philosophy. Alternatively, you need vitamins, lots and lots of vitamins. Try our lemonade, or gently spiced grapefruit juice. Of course, then there’s Bloody Mary. Praga’s a strange place for a cocktail bar isn’t it? No, no. In five or six years it’ll be the second center, a sort of SoHo or Montmartre. Already we’ve seen a real atmosphere created, and visiting Praga for a drink or two is now a must-do You don’t hear people saying, “we’ve got to go to the old town for a drink, or Nowy Świat.” And Praga really is more central than most people think – just across from old town, down the road from the National Stadium, a walk from the Copernicus

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Centre etc. When the Port Praski development happens we’re going to see even more spotlight on the area. You’ve got two minutes to tell me about this place. Shoot. The general understanding in Poland is you can’t have a place that’s good at both food and drinks. Pah. It is possible. Just look at the five star hotels in London – you’ll find some of the best cocktails in the world in these places. So yes, you can do food and drink, and I think we do it very well.

The Porto Praga Experience Like what you see? The book a place on the Porto Praga Experience, a top notch bartender course where the pros reveal the secrets to their trade. Learn to fix classic and modern cocktails under the tutelage of Warsaw’s best bar staff. For more details contact Porto Praga at: ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, office@portopraga. pl, www.portopraga.pl.

photograph courtesy of porto praga

What qualities do you look for in a barman? Personality and passion. A bar could have the best equipment in the world and all the drinks you could imagine, but without the personality and passion of the bar staff you’re not going anywhere. You need to make a connection with people, and at Porto Praga I’ve got two bar managers who do just that: Konrad Skarżynski and Krzysztof Cupryk are absolute stars.

GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

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Insider’s Pick

photograph courtesy rich & pretty

HOT FIND

Rich & Pretty ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 666 498 666, www.richandprettyclub.pl. Open Wed-Mon 21:00-6:00.

“W

e’re so pretty, oh so pretty, we’re vacant.” There’s definitely a cultural divide in the capital between the dirty rock ‘n’ roll scene of Pawilony and Praga’s dark and dingey hideouts, and the glamorous night spots that encompass the likes of Paparazzi and Platinium. Rich & Pretty unquestionably fits into the latter category. Located on ul. Mazowiecka, right next to the aforementioned Paparazzi and conveniently close to ul. Świętokrzyska and ul. Nowy Świat, this bar provides exactly the kind of experience you’d expect from a place with a name like that. It’s unashamedly flashy, with dark shiny interiors, a long and impressively stocked bar, suitably fancy bathrooms, and loud electronic music that gets you feeling in the mood for a bit of foot-tapping

“ One advantage of an establishment like this always seems to be that you can ensure that the staff will know how to make a good cocktail”

as soon as you win entry past the door man. Unfortunately for me I decided to take the unusual decision of going out on a Sunday, as I’d already had my day of rest earlier in the week. It obviously wasn’t the wisest of moves as the club was far from crammed, but judging by the website I can see that “Ladies Night,” which falls on a Wednesday and enables women to get half price drinks until 1 am, is certainly a good time to go if you want to meet people – pair that with its proximity to Enklawa (fabled as the best mid-week club night in town), and you have a very real solution to your Wednesday doldrums. And one more definite advantage of an establishment like this always seems to me to be that you can usually ensure that the trained bar staff will know how to make a good cocktail. That’s certainly the case here, judging by my Long Island Ice Tea and my esteemed colleague’s White Russian, which both went down well. So if its inyour-face razzmatazz that you’re seeking this is your place, just don’t >> forget to bring the plastic as it certainly doesn’t come cheap. (DI)

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GOING OUT >>

bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00. Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives. Alibi (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 22 629 2523. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. Another newish sports bar, Alibi’s strength lies in plenty of TVs (Sky Sports, yep), a generous floor plan, matey owner and a smoking area that’s seriously flexible. Oh, the location is grand central as well. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road). Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries.

Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means this place is never short on footfall. Even so, you get the impression it’d prosper wherever; certainly not as consistent as Bierhalle, Warsaw’s other microbrewery still runs a close second. Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look. The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan.

Chwila (B3) ul. Orgrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Scaremongers and dodgy websites claim this place as closed – lies! Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Dolina Muminków (E4) ul. Ksiażęca (Powiśle). Open 11:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Set around a stagnant looking parkland lake the Moomin bar is one more seasonal must before the sun goes for good. Deckchairs and sand give it

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updates

a beach bar look, with drinks served from a rotund wood bar built around a water tower. The party goes for 24hrs at the weekend, with DJs doing their bit to jack the noise level to max. Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest. Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters. Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00. Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night. Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradley.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark

(A1) map location take a date

BARS & PUBS

 food live music

Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English. Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:00-6:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall. Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa

vodka with their special mix, PRL-style orangeade. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00. A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, >>

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. Klub City (B2) al. Jana Pawła II 43A, tel. 22 636 92 46, www.klubcity.pl. Open 17:00-2:00. A newish gay venue set under the pavilions on JP2. The highlights here are the beer – Mazowieckie and Dawne – as well as a total absence of the preening fauxmosexuals of Warsaw’s more elite haunts. Find erotic art clinging to the walls, and karaoke and drag shows performed intermittently. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838. Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone? Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu

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GOING OUT >> where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside. Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Bar” Winner Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. With the weather warming up, don’t be surprised to find the shenanigans spilling onto the concourse outside. Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by a crew of pros who know their trade inside out. Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:0003:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. Now back after a refit last year SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Restaurant 99 (B4)  Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open daily 08:0023:00. This slick Warsaw fusion restaurant also has one of the best bars in the city, with expert service.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Everything you see you’ll want to stroke. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw here are the drinks; enjoy elaborate cocktails fixed by an exhibitionist staff.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A renovated railway ticket booth now houses one of Warsaw’s coolest bars. Organic beers, cheap shots, great music and a huge crowd of revellers spilling into the street makes it a great stop for those who want to avoid the club scene.

Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically

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Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the

Jazz clubs/clubs beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

jazz clubs

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

clubs

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dawn-till-dusk electro events. Balsam (D10) ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 22 898 2824. Open daily 11:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest. Located in a former fort in the Mokotów district, its low-key vintage atmosphere attracts mostly the hip, younger crowd. The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:0006:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge, though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers. The opening of this mega club confirms Mazowiecka’s status as the street of now. Bollywood Lounge (D4)  ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 22 827 0283. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 16:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-17:00. Daily parties with all the latest Indian and other exotic beats, lots of dancing, lights, colours and Sheesha smoke. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases.

Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award

De lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. El Presidente (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9, www.elpresidente.pl. Open 17:00-24:00, Fri 22:00-Last guest, Sat 22:00Last guest. A few dangly chandeliers embellish the breeze block interiors of El P, a late hour spot that’s great for squaring off a long, messy night. Conversations are conducted above the music via way of signs and monosyllables, but chances of hook-up are high. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you. M25 ul. Mińska 25, tel. 608 634 567, www.m25.waw.pl. Open Thur-Sat 21:00-last guest. Located inside an old city boiler house, M25 hosts a great selection of techno culture parties and miscellaneous events inside huge - you’ve guessed it - industrial interiors. Supposedly this place boasts the best sound system in town, and judging by the post-party tinnitus we’re inclined to agree. Check online regards clues to the latest party.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. Located in the catacombs of the grandiose National Opera house, Opera Club has built its reputation based on a premium location. With perhaps the most impressive entrance of any of the clubs in Warsaw, it draws in young crowds on weekend nights and keeps them there until the early morning. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Club” Winner

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the uni-generation. Graffiti clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands like the Bi-Polar Bears.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire

Piekarnia (A1) ul. Młocińska 11, www.pieksa.pl. Check Web for events. Go back a couple of dog years and you’d have heard some clubbers

www.warsawinsider.pl

GOING OUT >> hailing Piekarnia as one of the best nights in CEE. So what went wrong? Well, the old faces grew up and went elsewhere. They’re being replaced by a new generation, and while Piekarnia has a long way to recover the glories of the past, we’re starting to hear good things once more. House, trance and electro enjoyed by a diverse spread of club characters. Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, wwwplatiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Powiększenie (F4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088. Open 11:00-last guest. Brought to you by the same team behind Plan B, the more unpronounce-

able Powiększenie feature the same low-rent look and floppy-legged crowd. Larger in size, the downstairs regularly hosts cool international and domestic acts.

late-night hot spots. Musical offerings vary depending on the date, but they offer live music or DJs most weekends - check the website for detailed programmes.

Obiekt Znaleziony (C3)  ul. Małachowskiego 3 (cellar of the Zachęta National Gallery), tel. 22 828 058, www.obiekt.blog.pl. Open Mon-Thrus & Sun 12:00- 1:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-last guest. Located in the cellar of the Zachęta gallery, this club is a modern and minimalist artsy gathering spot for the alternative crowd.

Sheesha Lounge (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 3, www.sheesha.pl. Located in the centre of the city, Sheesha Lounge can be a good place to start your evening, or just take a little breather. A full Middle-Eastern menu and belly dancing.

Opera (D2) A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs. Sen Pszczoły (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 3, tel 22 506 488 481, www.senpszczoly.pl. One of Praga’s newest

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Skład Butelek (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 602 338 824. Open weekends from 19:00-3:00. An urbane, slightly scuzzy, enclave of cool. Hidden in the Listopada courtyard, with two other clubs next door. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls

THIS MONTH:

* 2 updates

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

home decor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 66

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 66

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-17:00

photograph courtesy of plac trzech krzyży 3/4

he latest boutique to hit Warsaw’s poshest Plac looks like all the rest of them from the outside, but as soon as you walk in, you’re transported into the world of Ralph Lauren. Palm fronds in China pots, vases filled with bouquets of polo sticks, piles of rugged valises and gleaming trophies create an ambiance that characterizes the Polo Store from New York to Tokyo. And now Warsaw. And of course, the clothes – tidy stacks of primly pressed polo shirts in a rainbow spectrum of shades, khaki trousers and penny loafers. It runs the gamut from casual sportswear to full-on dinner jacket glamour. Then there’s a full selection of shoes and accessories from Ralph Lauren, Ferragamo and Tod’s. And that’s just the men’s section. Up an elegant winding staircase decked with ’50s-style photographs of New York is the women’s section. And this is where it really gets going. It was surprisingly full for a Tuesday afternoon – with all sorts of stylish

“ And of course, the clothes – tidy stacks of primly pressed polo shirts in a rainbow spectrum of shades, khaki trousers and penny loafers.”

women perusing the incredible collection of cashmeres, tweeds, silks and leather goods. Again, the collection is mainly based on Ralph Lauren, but it’s ample enough to impress - from classic everyday wear to lovely dresses for evening. I fell in love with a pair of slim camel boots (zł. 3,610) and short shearling-lined booties from Tod’s (zł. 2,900), but I’ll need to save up some more to afford them – or wait for them to go on sale... The view of the square from the huge windows is absolutely amazing, and whatever that scent is that fills the air is just wonderful – I’m sure it’s one of those mood-enhancing sorts that make you want to shop because I couldn’t get my hands off all the goodies. I ended up trying on a sleek gold-hued dress off the sale rack (not a bad buy at zł. 890) and found the fitting rooms to be elegant and comfortable – tasteful flower-sprigged wallpaper and country manor accents. Only the lighting was a bit of a disappointment as I couldn’t help noticing those five extra pounds I’ve been meaning to shed since >> the beginning of summer. (AL)

www.warsawinsider.pl

...TILL YOU DROP >>

fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more. Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations)

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updates

Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with piecesfrom worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu and Phillipe Audibert. .

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

FASHION Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0021:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 622 4867. This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers. Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up.

Pl.Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren

store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty. Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more

www.warsawinsider.pl

...TILL YOU DROP >> daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

home décor & interior design

3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. All That Stuff (E3) ul. Solec 81B, www.allthatstuff.pl. A new addition to the pre-loved goods market. Stocks quirky titles imported directly from the UK. Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Great for gifts. Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine

the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available. Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Koło Antiques Market (Wola) between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska. Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. Perfect for the casual browser or Eastern European history buff searching for antiques with a historical twist. A fun place to browse silver cutlery, military paraphernalia, pre-war crockery, chunky furniture, vintage toys and just about any bric-a-brac. Maison Creative (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 3864. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This gorgeous boutique features furnishings that boast luxury and class. From tasteful gilded mirrors, sparkling chandeliers and posh period lounges. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture

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and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, www.redonion.pl. Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glassware, sourced from all over the world. Red Onion’s new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/ E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

lifestyle Accomodation, Education and more... INDEX Accommodation ��p.68 hotels in Warsaw �� p.68 hotels outside of Warsaw �� p.69 Community Contacts �� p.71

Education ��p.72 Polish for foreigners ��p.72 preschools ��p.73 schools ��p.75

Insider’s Pick HOT WEBSITE

Zest ul. Puszczyka 17/19 m.70, tel. 696 531 850, www.zest-health.com

est’s motto is ‘Food – Fitness – Fantastic’ and the idea behind it is to help us busy folks stay active and healthy – even with a hectic schedule. Run by Michelle, a seasoned ex-pat herself, the initiative takes some of the pain out of being fit by delivering fresh, healthy meals to members’ homes or offices, along with a custom-tailored fitness program designed and executed by a certified trainer who actually comes to you. The meal delivery service saves oodles of time by cutting out the time spent shopping for food, cooking and cleaning up, as well as keeping people from making bad food choices at restaurants or takeout spots. Zest offer packages that range from meal delivery services for around zł. 50-70 per day, and slow weight loss or anti-cellulite meal and fitness plans in the range of zł. 63.50-69 per day; it really is an affordable way to get your life on track in terms of health and fitness.

“ The meal delivery service saves oodles of time, as well as keeping people from making bad food choices at restaurants”

Currently, Zest employ four fully certified trainers who are fluent in English, as well as trained nutritionists who create individual menus for each client. I talked to Michelle about her motivation in creating this company and why expats might be looking to Zest to improve certain facets of their busy lives. Michelle explained that many expats she has spoken to live in Konstancin and so getting in to the city for regular workouts is inconvenient, especially in the winter and that many are not conversant in Polish and do not feel comfortable at the gym, where the music is loud and the target group is typically younger. At Zest that isn’t a problem, with tailor-made programs for any age – there’s even a 50+ option to strengthen and tone a mature body. “The whole strength of Zest is that we bring your health to you,” says Michelle, “in whatever form works best in your life. It’s all very personal, and we work hard to stay in communication with our clients, to make sure that Zest’s programs are still meeting their life needs. If not, or things have changed, then the program changes too. After all, life does not stay still - why would your eating or exercise program stay the same?” (AL)

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LIFESTYLE >>

Accomodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44,

tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages. Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

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Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna. Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

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Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie

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accommodation is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included. Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room. Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests. Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250

(weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included. Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

top hotels around Poland

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling,

billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Northeast Poland

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries. Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl. Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

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