Warsaw Insider March 2012

Saint Patrick’s Day page 20

Great Polish Women page 26

48 hours in Krakow page 28

Kult Kommie Kino

page 24

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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MARCH 2012

March-ing On

PHOTOGRAPH TOP SHUTTERSTOCK. BOTTOM FROM LEFT, KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF HILTON, KEVIN DEMARIA

here’s a lot of reasons to celebrate March, and they don’t come much bigger than the realization that the worst of the winter is in the rear view mirror: now there’s just a 50-50 chance you’ll look like the Yeti after two minutes outside. There is, of course, other news that deserves the sound of trumpets, and that’s the Insider’s 187th outing – a collector’s item if ever there was. We’ve used our time in the Valkea bunker wisely, plotting over maps before sending our contributors into the icy wastes. The results are outstanding: Christian Swindells reports on the rise and fall of Warsaw’s great commie cinemas, while Kit F. Chung meets the Polish Willy Wonka. To coincide with International Women’s Day, Anna J. Kutor writes a rousing piece about Poland’s greatest living belles, and Gill Boelman Burrows explores Warsaw’s new fad: cafes where the kids come first. As for myself, well, not all my time has been spent swiveling in my seat while ordering for curry. For starters, 48hrs were set aside for a quick trip to Kraków, the results of which you’ll find deep inside. I’ve also been down the pub, and for other reasons than to swing from the lights. I don’t need many excuses to be seen in an Irish pub, but with St. Patrick’s upon us it seemed a good time to catch up with some ex-pats from the Emerald Isle. Even so, nothing has given me more pleasure this issue than reporting back on the hotspots that have opened. Now, for a time, it seemed Warsaw was following a disquieting trend – venues that sacrificed lickle things like quality in favor of fashion and style. Places like this have a tendency to be served with bluster before being eaten by their own hubris (remember Cinnamon?); so it’s great to discover that Warsaw’s now finding a nice middle ground – places you want to be in, not just seen in. Places like Pies Czy Suka or Theatro 1811. Of course, we’ve got the lowdown on those two and more. Happy reading... Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover Nice cover, huh? If you haven’t worked it out, it refers directly to a kino krazy issue: inside, we take a look at Warsaw’s cult commie cinemas, those that survive and those that have died. Read more on p. 24. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Insider’s TOP 3 After deserting England due to weather, women and wealth, Christian Swindells has been a Varsovian since 1997. An Insider writer since 2002 (with a brief cameo as editor), he has also written two Warsaw guidebooks. He relies on cats, books and regional beers to keep him relatively sane.

Muranów The phoenix which rose from the ashes of the ghetto, Muranów is arguably Warsaw’s best-kept secret. A cracking place to live in or just to take a stroll round, it offers off-beat eating and drinking spots, some fascinating architecture and more history per sq/m than you can shake a stick at.

Hilton Brunch Brunch is a Warsaw tradition beloved by all us gluttons. The Hilton is the best one, offering all you need: top-notch nosh, attentive staff and a glassed-in play-area ensuring children are seen but not heard. Just remember to book Monday off work (or phone in with brunchitis).

Kwadrat The excellent owners, friendly customers and laid-back atmosphere are all a draw but the real attraction here is a fridge which may well have been stolen from Olympus (or perhaps Valhalla) as it’s crammed full of beer so glorious you’d expect the stuff to be reserved strictly for the gods.

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what’s inside:

MARCH 2012

10 News in Brief Happenings around town and beyond

04 Why Warsaw? Musician Hamish Potts speaks out

14 Relics of the PRL Intnerational Women’s Day, Meta na Mazowieckiej and a socialist A-Z

24 Kult Kommie Kino Warsaw’s great cinemas, now and then

18 Architecture The work of Stefan Kuryłowicz 20 St Patrick’s Two Irishmen speak 22 The Big Freeze Poland’s winter in numbers Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Editorial Intern Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

FEATURES

28 Travel 48hrs in Kraków

Arts and Entertainment

Eating Out

Going Out

Till You Drop

Lifestyle

05 Insider’s Pick Nigel Kennedy 06 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 08 Museums Top cultural institutes 09 The Screening Room Film openings

61 Insider’s Pick Pies czy Suka 64 Hot Find 1811 Club by Theatro 67 Insider’s Pick Loft Fashion

32 Food Warsaw’s secret sweet factory

65 Insider’s Pick Tai Chi at Uzdrow isko Mokotów

88 Community Snapshots Photographs from the January mixer at Theatro 1811

85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map and Street Index

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Marysia Masterlarsz Michał Miszkurka Anna J. Kutor Paula Rewald Laura Klos Sokol

Agnieszka Le Nart Christian Swindells Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

16 Mum’s the Word Kids Cafe’s

33 I nsider’s Pick Kaprys 40 The Luncheonettes Tamka43 56 Hot Find Espressamente Illy

INfront

26 Great Polish Women Leading, living ladies

LISTINGS

T ERRA C OLLECTION

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Mokotowska 63 • Warszawa • Galeria Mokotow Warszawa • www.mokotowska63.com

WHY WARSAW? really tiny cameo parts. Other random famous people too. Barack Obama for 2.5 seconds and Bono cleaning a toilet. Paul McCartney getting a door slammed in his face, too. And then I guess there would be some kind of story – and an interesting twist to the tale. Like Radiohead’s ‘Just’ video: my favorite video. I love the whole ‘story’ and the way the band are very remotely in the same scene. Best band name you’ve heard? There’s a local band here called Tits – their music is terrible, mind. I love the name Happy Sad, as well as The Boy who Came On; no idea why, but they changed their name to Crosby or something. Favorite gig space here? Well, Warsaw misses the diversity of other cities. Sure you get live music all the time in HRC and all that, but where can you find the other genres – drum’n’bass, reggae, hip hop etc. As venues go though, I love Hydrozagadka, Saturator, Sens Pszczoły. And Harenda is great – to get to the stage you come through the crowd, and that’s a top feeling. Two things Warsaw needs? A solid indy/rock club which has live music most nights of the week followed by a classic indy/rock disco on Friday and Saturday which does not turn into an electro/80’s revival club at 2 a.m. You know the sort, a proper music venue with metal toilets covered in sick. And... a decent football team?

BUNCH OF LEMONS

By day he’s a negotiator for Knight Frank, by night, he becomes an Electric Lemon. Englishman Hamish Potts, one fifth of the cult quintet, has a natter with the Insider.

Favorite album? Massive Attack’s Blue Lines, Bloc Party’s Silent Alarm, Kings of Leon’s Youth and Young Manhood are all brilliant with not a bad tune on them as far as I’m concerned. Arctic Monkey’s debut is also killer as is Maximo Park’s A Certain Trigger. Wow, so many more I could mention... What’s your first memory of Warsaw? The graffiti wall along the side of Wyścigi, the 24 hour Tesco in Kabaty, being kicked out of KluboKawiarnia for doing something I shouldn’t…

What’s happening today? I saw an absolute NUTTER getting on the tram earlier. Bearing in mind it’s about -10, there was a dude who must have been about 60, and wasn’t drunk or anything - looked pretty normal to all intents and purposes, a bit like Terence Stamp, in fact. Anyway, I digress, the loon was wearing those lightweight jogger’s shorts, a short-sleeved t-shirt and sports sandals with no socks. He had a shopping bag with him and showed no sign of being cold whatsoever. It makes you think.

What three things do you miss from England? Marks & Spencer have taken care of the food issues, so I’d say real bitter from a cask, my family and friends and English TV. Aside from Match of the Day it’s mostly garbage, but at least you can understand it all.

What’s your dream music video. What’s the plot and where’s it shot? I’d probably involve loads of famous actors in

For more on Mr. Potts and his lovely Lemons visit: www.electriclemons.com

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What’s the scariest thing about Poland? Driving outside the cities and having to overtake on the single lane roads. Just when you think you’ve just about got enough room some maniac decides to have a crack from the other direction. Death is everywhere on the roads.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BARTOSZ BAJERSKI, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS

What does Warsaw smell of? Dog pooh, at least when it eventually goes back above zero degrees. You only think of bad things if you’re asked about the smell of a city and Warsaw holds its own quite well with some spectacularly stinky tramps.

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Concerts, Events, Museums & Galleries

Insider’s Pick

28 SUN Concert Nigel Kennedy: Hendrix Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl

“ It’s no surprise to find Kennedy turning his back on the doddery critics”

hen Kennedy first stepped out at the British Philharmonic in the 80’s, replete with a mohawk and punk look, the stunned audience went silent. It didn’t get any better for him, as he grimed and screeched through a series of classics. Seemingly hated by the British musical establishment, but hailed by the public, it was no surprise to find Kennedy turning his back on the doddery critics who never accepted his ‘bad boy’ image. Does he care? CD sales of two million plus suggest not, and that’s just for his 1989 recording of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons – to date, the best-selling classical music CD in the world. Yet while he’s been largely shunned in England, not least for his ‘grotesque, selfinvented’ mockney accent, this master violinist has earned international acclaim for his ability to blur jazz, rock and punk genres with that of more conservative classical. And don’t think he’s a newbie to Poland. Married to a Pole, Kennedy spends half his time in Kraków, socializing in the city’s jazz bars and working closely with a klezmer collaboration called Kroke. His forthcoming Warsaw outing, however, is a Hendrix tribute that promises all sorts of surprises: see you for yourself what post-punk exorcisms Kennedy will perform on his electronic violin… (AJ) Tickets from zł. 75, available from: www.empik.pl, www.ticketpro.pl or www.stodola.pl

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT >>

1 THU

3 SAT

Concert

Zakopower Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl A more modern, ‘rockier’ version of traditional Polish mountain folk. Don’t expect your ave. boy band. Tickets from zł. 40.

150th Anniversary of Claude Debussy Filharmonia, ul. Jasna 5, tel. 22 551 7111, www.filharmonia.pl Debussy’s La Mer (The Sea) belongs to the evergreens of impressionism. This one off concert celebrates the Frenchman’s 150th birthday with a performance of one of his defining works.

Bejart, the second of Israeli artist Emanuel Gat, and the final one courtesy of the legendary Nijinsky.

8 THU Concert Turbowolf Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.go-ahead.pl How can you categorize a band whose influences range from rock’n’roll, psychedelic, punk and electronica? The results are bizarrely refreshing. Tickets zł. 45.

12 MON Concert Al di Meola Klub Palladium, ul. Złota 9, tel. 22 822 3003, www.palladium.art.pl Al di Meola – possibly Poland’s favorite jazzman – combines delicate classic guitar with futuristic vibes using synthesizers and ethnic melodies. This time he’s in Warsaw to present his new album Pursuit of Radical Rhapsody.

Opera

2 FRI Festival Adidas Originals Rocks the Floor Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25, tel. 22 323 1900, www.rockthefloor.eu A two day festival of hip hip, rap, graffiti, breakdancing, DJ-ing and MC-ing. Celebrating all aspects of urban street culture, attendance is compulsory for any self-respecting b-boy out there. Till Saturday 3rd.

Ballet Spring Celebration Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0200, www.teatrwielki.pl Three compelling interpretations of Strawinski’s most famous ballet. The first is the creation of Frenchman Maurice

Georges Bizet - Carmen Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl A unique opportunity to see the Silesian Opera performing their take on the world’s number one opera. Tickets from zł. 50-180.

16 FRI Opera The Flying Dutchman (Latający Holender) Teatr Wielki, Plac Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0200, www.teatrwielki.pl Following on from his brilliant interpretation of Madame Butterfly and King Roger, director Mariusz Treliński returns to the stage with his take on Wagner’s The Flying Dutchman – the story of a cursed sailor looking for love.

20 TUE

Paco Peña Flamenco Dance Company Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Guitarist Paco Peña has been wooing packed theaters for decades, supported by a powerful, passionate cast of dancers. Credited with bringing flamenco to the international stage, this promises to be a night to remember.

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS

Concert

EVENT CALENDAR 25 SUN

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Concert Loreena McKennitt Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www. kongresowa.pl With the sale of 14 million albums under her belt, Loreena has finally chosen to grace Poland with her enchanting Celtic sound. Tickets from zł. 95-185.

APRIL

1 SUN

Ballet Tristan Teatr Wielki, Plac Teatralny 1, 22 692 0200, www.teatrwielki.pl Choreographer Krzysztof Pastor successfully introduced this ballet to Poland in 2009. Exploring themes of death and unrequited love, this acclaimed ballet is back for a long-awaited second run.

Exhibition

LIVE THIS MONTH 4 SUN

PreQuel, Radogost, Vino

5 MON

ClosterKeller

6 TUES

Maria Peszek

MON

Power of Trinity

WARSAW 1939-1944. Wartime Satire and the Realities of War in Cartoons by Polish Graphic Artists. The Caricature Museum, ul. Kozia 11, www.muzeumkarykatury.pl This ongoing exhibition has been made possible through the recent discovery in the museum’s archives of scores of art pieces dating from the war. Among the patriotic propaganda and anti-Nazi cartoons, find works by artists like Henryk Chmielewski (a.ka Yes), Stanisław Tomaszewski (a.ka Miedza) or Andrzej Will (a.ka Was). Till May 20th.

13 TUES Hunter

SUN

FINAL

Installation

19 MON

TO GET THERE by Frm/ Goro/Mrufig/Otecki ul. Hoża 9 (Cultural Center V9), v9.bzzz.net

Öszibarack

20 TUES Muchy

26 MON L.U.C

27 TUES IRA / 5th Birthday of HRC

Partially responsible for the pop-up UFO (Unexplained Fountain Occupation) last year, this time round the V9 collective have brought together four artists representative of the Polish street art scene in this one-of-a-kind exhibition. “Their painting collaboration combines pieces created together that hide possibilities,” claim the organizers, somewhat enigmatically… >>

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museums & galleries Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik. org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recycable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. This month: a project called GENesis includes various events on the subject of Genetically Modified Organisms(GMO). Check the web for details. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Missing Documents. Photographs of Polish Transformation After 1989 and also Academy of Movement, City. Space for Action. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl

A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘Rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist Architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans.

executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, and still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Their cinema project: “Cinemamuseum” only till March 2rd. From March 2nd: the opening of the Museum Cinematheque. From March 15th: Angry Birds, an exhibition of works from hot new Russian talents.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Ongoing: And Life Would Have to Go On. Women in Ravensbrück concentration camp

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts,

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles

MUSEUM UPDATE

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, tel. 22 596 4010, www.artmuseum. pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-20:00 Admission free.

he focus has shifted from “watch this space” to “watch what space?” Local papers have got wind of troubles on board the boat to build the museum’s high profile new home by the the Palace of Culture; if headlines are to be believed,

the structure designed by Swiss architect Christian Kerez is not to be. Instead the art objects will find shelter in a squat building next door which currently houses the Emilia furniture store. Marcel Andino Velez, the museum’s deputy director, tells the Insider that despite contractual wranglings (between the city and the architect) the Kerez building is by no means a goner. But for the mo, as in the next five years or so, the museum hopes to occupy the 4,000 sq/m of elbowroom in the aforementioned store. “It’s a very nice building. It has a beautiful inner space,” says Velez of the 1970 building. Velez believes that his team can convert it into “a hip place” and instill appreciation for the much benighted post-war architecture. Talks are underway to sort out the rent, with the Emilia folk reportedly holding out for zł. 4 million per year.

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Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing: an exhibition of poster calendars titled Vidical. Till March 24rd. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. From March 5th Polish Inventions as Seen at World Exhibitions. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Upris-

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT, WIKICOMMONS, COURTESY OF WARNER BROS., KEVIN DEMARIA

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

MUSEUMS, GALLERIES & MOVIES ing. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. From March 3rd: Doubly Regained Territories. Feat. the works of Bogdan Łopieński, Andrzej Tobis, Krzysztof Żwirblis. From March 9th: New Sculpture.

screening room

opening this month:

2nd Seeking Justice (Bóg zemsty) Thriller. USA. Dir. Roger Donaldson, with Nicolas Cage, Guy Pearce and January Jones

16th

MEDIA PATRONAGE

We Bought a Zoo (Kupiliśmy zoo) Biography. USA. Dir. Cameron Crowe, with Matt Damon, Scarlett Johansson and Elle Fanning

23rd The Grey (Przetrwanie) Drama. USA. Dir. Joe Carnahan, with Liam Neeson and Joe Anderson Perfect Sense (Ostatnia miłość na Ziemi) Romance / Drama. Denmark, Germany, Sweden, UK. Dir. David Mackenzie, with Eva Green and Ewan McGregor

Hysteria (Histeria) Comedy / Romance. UK. Dir. Tanya Wexler, Jonah Lisa Dryer, with Maggie Gyllenhaal and Rupert Everett The Woman in Black (Kobieta w czerni) Horror. UK. Dir. James Watkins, with Daniel Radcliffe and Ciaran Hinds Four Lions Comedy. UK. Dir. Chris Morris, with Benedict Cumberbatch and Julia Davis

30th Wrath of the Titans (Gniew Tytanów) Action / Fantasy. USA. Dir. Jonathan Liebesman, with Sam Worthington and Rosamund Pike

DVD City of Ruins (Miasto Ruin) Since its screen debut in 2010, a viewing of the five minute City of Ruins of film has become an essential part of the Uprising Museum experience. The result of painstaking research and over six months of work, the 3D film takes viewers on an aerial journey over smoldering Warsaw, 1945. Deeply haunting, this magnificent digital reconstruction is now out on DVD – pick up your copy from the Uprising Museum.

www.warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

BRIEFING The Manufaktura complex that regenerated Łódź

TRAVEL

Łódź You Believe it!

QUOTE

“When I was 6 years old, I thought I was a princess. I knew that I was different, that I was special and that I would have everything that I wanted”

Magda Gessler, Poland's crowned culinary queen, on her rise to greatness

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CULTURE

MOST POPULAR POLISH NAMES OF 2011: GIRLS:

Julia Maja Zuzanna BOYS:

Jan Jakub Adam

PHOTOGRAPHS, TOP COURTESY OF INTERNATIONAL HOTEL MANAGEMENT AG, BOTTOM BY RAFAŁ MILACH/AF PHOTO/ PHOTO SESSION FOR EXKLUSIV

The New York Times lists Łódź on its 2012 Top 45 Places to See, pouring praise on its rep as Poland's movie making capital, as well as David Lynch's decision to launch a film studio there. Less than 140km from Wawa, it can be a daytrip but it’s best to stay the night as this third largest city in Poland is also known as the Capital of Polish Clubbing. Though life converges at Manufaktura, a size-XL shopping-cum-entertainment complex, there’s plenty of historical and architectural sights left from the late 1800’s when it was an industrial powerhouse, not to mention the deliciously art nouveau ul. Piotrkowska – Europe's longest pedestrianized street.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING

Death of a Poet Wordsmith extraordinaire Wisława Szymborska passed away last month at the age of 88. A recipient of the 1996 Nobel Prize for Literature and 2011 Order of the White Eagle (the highest honour rendered by Poland), Szymborska’s word processing was described thus: “her ironic precision allows the historical and biological context to come to light in fragments of human reality.” She is adored not by Poles, but also by poetry lovers worldwide – and, get this, former boxing big man Andrzej Golota; on hearing of the death of his unlikely fan, the hulking bruiser penned his own ode to her (with the help of his wife).

POLITICS

Delayed Ratification? Soon after signing the ACTA (AntiCounterfeiting Trade Agreement), PM Donald Tusk announced he was suspending its ratification into Polish law. Because, oops, his people didn’t look properly under the hood of ACTA. Lots of hoo-ha in local media and on the streets took place before the PM did a volte-face. Opponents wave fists at ACTA’s encroachment on privacy and freedom of speech. Meanwhile, legal eagles doubt the PM can suspend ratification of a signed deal.

MOVIES

In Darkness Shines

As the March issue of the Insider went to press, Poland was holding its breath to see if Agnieszka Holland's holocaust epic, In Darkness, would run away with the Oscar for the Best Foreign Language Film. Facing strong competition from A Seperation, Holland's flick – set in Lwów – has been installed as second favorite by bookies.

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FORUM AGENCY, KEVIN DEMARIA, SONY CLASSIC PICTURES

OBITUARY

INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89) INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

ARCHIMAPA

Catching our eye this month is Archimapa 1949-56, a dual-language fold-out with a Google style map on one side, and various points of interest on the other. As one expects, this one focuses on Soc Realism, and is a brilliant run through of 49 sights – some obvious, like the Palace of Culture, others not so – the Polskie Radio HQ, for instance. Pick it up direct from the publisher: the Warsaw Rising Museum.

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While genuine bars dating from the communist years are a dwindling phenomenon, places like Meta – new bars designed to look old – are in the ascent. Pandering to hip Poles who want nostalgia without the smell, this nationwide chain has the surface look to a tee: resembling a boozy diorama, the latest venture (Mazowiecka 11) is a cut/paste from the original on Foksal – walls layered with 80s newspaper, vinyl records from commie crooners, and even strings of harsh-looking bog roll. Kleptomaniacs will love it. Find yourself pressed against the wall as you raise a vodka with the post-Paparazzi crowd. Open 11:00-6:00.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF META (2), SHUTTERSTOCK

While the origins of International Women’s Day can be traced to 1909 – and a New York demonstration protesting low wages – most will associate it with the Soviet Union. In 1917, a Women’s Day march in St. Petersburg on the last Sunday of February (March 8, for us using the Gregorian calendar) lit the touch paper for the February Revolution – the first of two revolutions which would eventually lead to Lenin butchering his way to power. In a sign of recognition, the Soviet despot later installed it as a national holiday. With an Iron Curtain drawn across half of Europe in the postwar years, the Soviets introduced Women’s Day to Poland in 1948. Yet while it was no doubt intended as a propaganda stunt – one to hail the achievements of women and the Utopian vision – Dzień Kobiet was fondly embraced by the Polish public. With slogans like ‘a flower for Ewa’ drummed into them, it soon became de rigueur for gents to treat the women in their lives with a red carnation – quite often, wrapped in a pair of tights or stockings. While the holiday was quietly dropped from the official calendar in 1993, it remains a popular vestige of communism that survives and thrives.

www.warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

MUM'S THE WORD

BY GILL BOELMAN BURROWS

Kids, Coffee & Cafe's

First it was fusion, then it was sushi. Now Warsaw has a new fad and it's a lot noisier than those seen before...

ince Warsaw embraced café culture a few years back, coffee shops and cafes have been springing up all over the place. So after the baby boom it’s inevitable that a kid’s café boom would follow suit. According to creative entrepreneurial types, whilst mum and dad drink coffee it’s no longer considered acceptable for offspring to draw on a steamed up window. And nor is it appropriate to peel wallpaper to create ‘modern art’ for that matter… No, according to them our children, much like today’s students, need cafes designed specifically for all their sensory needs. All good I say, but unless the coffee is good, service friendly, food tasty, price right and the place is open all day then I’m afraid it just won’t work! But these cafes have tapped into all the grown-up necessities too. Therefore, as I am on the search for the perfect venue to host my daughters 6th birthday party, I took it upon myself to Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a r c h 2 0 1 2

zigzag my way across the city, from one district to another, to search out the best child friendly establishments in order to make an educated choice. After all, according to my daughter, birthday parties are the most important event of the year. My memories of birthdays are a handful of kids from around the block; dropped off for cake and pass-theparcel, then collected two hours later after hide’n’seek and a run about in the garden. But today, the pressure is on, with birthday parties every bit as stressful as organizing a corporate event. Both the children and parents expect educational entertainment, a full buffet to suit all dietary requirements, the obligatory homemade cake, and for it all to be done whilst wearing heels! In the knowledge that we live on the seventh floor, which could lead to health and safety issues, I gratefully surrendered and left the job of making my daughter’s birthday memorable to the professionals. The latest café to hit the Warsaw kid’s scene and high on my birthday contender list is Pompon. Not only does the premise get top marks for its woodland wall art but for an impressive ‘organic’ menu. I can recommend the cupcakes and quesadillas, while my friend polished off the daily lunch menu, priced at zł. 20 for two courses. Large windows give plenty of natural light while the polite staff are keen to promote their space and show off the rooms available for birthdays. Pompon cater to toddlers with a gated play area, through to early teens (and Dad’s) who can hide in the enclosed Nintendo/ Wii computer room. All ages between can draw on the chalk walls or explore the forest-to-city play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses. And to be perfectly honest, I suspect it won’t be long before we see grown-ups minus the kids popping in for a quick coffee just to wallow in a well needed dose of color before the official arrival of spring.

WARSAW’S KID FRIENDLY JOINTS Wola Pompon ul. Młynarska 13, www.pomponart.pl Żoliborz Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, www.kalimba.pl Ochota Kolonia before Park Wielkopolski, ww.kolonia-ochota.pl Wilanów Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl City Center Kredkafe Al. Wyzwolenia 14 www.kredkafe.pl Saska Kępa FikuMiku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN BURROWS

“ But today, the pressure is on, with birthday parties every bit as stressful as organizing a corporate event”

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Shopping mall: Mon – Sat: 10.00 – 21.00, Sun: 10.00 – 20.00 Alma (Market): Mon – Sat: 9.30 – 22.00, Sun: 10.00 – 20.00 Cinema City: everyday

Shopping mall: Mon – Sat: 10.00–21.00, Sun: 10.00–20.00 Carrefour: Mon – Sat: 8.30–22.00, Sun: 9.00–21.00 Pure Fitness: Mon – Fri: 6.30–22.30, Sat: 8.00–21.00, Sun: 8.00–20.00 Multikino (cinema): Mon – Sun: 10.00–00.30

Warszawa, Al. Jerozolimskie 148 www.atrium–reduta.pl

120 stores, service points, restaurants.

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Warszawa, ul. Głębocka 15 www.atrium–targowek.pl 112, 120, 126, 132, 134, 140, 527, 732, N11

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SPORT

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INFRONT

ARCHITECTURE

BY CHRISTIAN SWINDELLS Focus Filtrowa

The Original Arty-Techt

Królewska Building

Nautilus Building

Looking at a modern building in Warsaw and thinking “That’s pretty good actually”? You’re probably looking at the work of Stefan Kuryłowicz.

1972 graduate from Warsaw University of Technology, Kuryłowicz opened an architectural studio in 1983. Although communism rarely mixed well with creativity, Kuryłowicz and his associates were soon winning awards, designing everything from churches to office blocks. The 1990s saw Kuryłowicz become the choice for anybody looking for architecture out of the ordinary. His work included the Nautilus building on Nowogrodzka, Focus Filtrowa and the Centrum Królewska – which prior to his intervention was a two-storey shack. His unique style often initially caused controversy. But as architect Zbigniew Reszka said: “After a while – after a year or two – it turned out the buildings fitted their surroundings wonderfully.” Kuryłowicz died in a plane crash on June 6th, 2011 but his work and his impact on Polish architecture live on. PAP described him as both, “the creator of outstanding projects which changed Polish architecture starting in the 1990s, (and) a master capable of transmitting his knowledge to others.”

Dworzec Gdański

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM KURYŁOWICZ & ASSOCIATES SP. Z O.O.

Wolf Nullo

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PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW Regarded as the top Italian restaurant in Warsaw, experience fine cuisine & an impressive choice of fabulous Italian wines ... served in a delightful setting PARMIZZANO'S RESTAURANT Warsaw Marriott Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa tel.: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

INFRONT

EX-PAT HOLIDAY

BY ALEX WEBBER

Ireland in Poland

Warsaw goes green on March 17th, with St. Patrick’s festivities kicking off across town. The Insider catches up with two Irish imports to fire questions about home. Managing Partner at Tara HRC, in Warsaw since 2001. All time Irish hero Michael Collins, a man who with no formal military training or intelligence experience still managed to wreak havoc within the British intelligence services and played a major role in Ireland achieving its independence. Euro 2012, what can we expect? With Spain, Italy and Croatia in the group we can’t be expecting too much. It’s our first major tournament in ten years so let’s just enjoy the atmosphere and hope for a cheeky win against Spain! Your favorite Irish pub is… O’Donoghue’s pub in Dublin, a small place that hasn’t been redecorated since 1934. During the winter you can stand in by the warm fire and listen

to local musicians play traditional Irish music. It’s a good place to catch a glimpse of the odd celebrity experiencing a real Irish pub. What 4 things make Ireland great? I think the Irish sense of humor is one of the best things. Secondly. the South and West coasts of Ireland: I’m always blown away by its beauty. In some of the remote areas you almost feel like you have been transported back to 100 years previous. Another thing is Irish rugby, something that has made every Irish person proud particularly in recent years. For such a small country to compete at the highest level in both club and country it’s a great achievement. Finally, no matter where in the world you go and have a pint of Guinness, it’s never ever as good as a pint from home.

DECLAN FORTUNE

Executive Coach, in Poland since 1992

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Greatest living Irishman? You would have to admire any Irish man (or woman) trying to raise a family in Ireland at the moment, things are not easy. What did you do on your first night in Warsaw? I don’t remember, probably a meal and a couple of pints in the hotel. I remember it was very cold, and also at that time there was very little choice as regards pubs and restaurants. What 3 things make Ireland great? The people, their sense of humour, their optimism and their generosity. Secondly the history, and finally: the English! What’s your foolproof hangover tip for March 18th? Two Solpadeine and a big fried breakfast (hold the fried tomato though).

PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

MARK TWOMEY

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INFRONT

WINTER

THE BIG FREEZE

For those experiencing their first Warsaw winter it may have seemed like a lot of fuss about nothing just a few short weeks ago, as the capital basked in one of the warmest starts to the New Year on record. But then a bitter cold front blew in from Siberia bringing with it freezing temperatures which dropped to as low as -38.5 in the village of Gronk贸w in the south of Poland. Conditions were so bad that at the start of February 29 people died from hypothermia in a single seven day period.

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BY DAVE INGHAM | PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

-89.2 °C (lowest temperature ever recorded on Earth – taken at the Vostok research station in Antarctica on July 21, 1983)

-41 °C (lowest temperature on Polish records – taken in the town of Siedlce on November 1, 1940)

-31 °C (coldest temperature ever recorded in Warsaw)

www.warsawinsider.pl

KINOS

The Age of the Multiplex be damned. This issue the Insider celebrates and honors the kinos of the past – those that survive and them that have fallen. BY CHRISTIAN SWINDELLS

odern multiplexs are all the same: same 10+ screens, same popcorn, same massive seats, same soul-crushing Adam Sandler films. But once Warsaw’s cinemas spoke of the brave new city that sprang up after WWII, back when a trip to the cinema was a true treat. Some have fallen along the way but those remaining are part of Varsovian heritage and culture, part of the very fabric of the city. So, ladies and gentlemen, without further ado, tonight’s feature presentation: Kult Kommie Kino!

KINO OCHOTA (UL. GRÓJECKA 65)

Above, Age of the Apocalypse: militia stand outside Kino Moskwa

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One of the four cinemas designed in 1948 by Mieczysław Piprek, Kino Ochota opened on 1 May 1949. It lacks the multiple-arched roof of Iluzjon and W-Z but does have a rather interesting oval-shaped ticket office and marble

PHOTOGRAPH BY FORUM AGENCY

KULT KOMMIE KINO

walls throughout, as well as an exterior that brings to mind a squashed UFO. After the last screening in 2001, it was allowed to rot as a DVD store and a pet shop. Following much talk of demolition, the Krystyna Janda Foundation for Culture secured a 20-year lease on the building in 2009 and in January 2010 it hosted the first performance of OchTeatr. Those who know such words say Och-Teatr offers Warsaw’s most eclectic repertoire. That aside, there’s an interesting cafe in the foyer which gives you the chance to check out the classic 40s’ interior without having to buy a bilet for something intellectual.

“ Some have fallen along the way but those remaining are part of Varsovian heritage and culture, part of the very fabric of the city”

ILUZJON (UL. NARBUTTA 50A)

approved socialist realist yardstick. So decent but incongruous bas-reliefs by Stefan Sikora representing socialist ideals of labour, art and science were added. Today they are all that’s left of the elegant structure. A property guru had the place pulled down in 2005 and replaced by an office block and modern cinema. But stick you head round the door for a glimpse of three soc-realist surprises inside.

This Piprek gem opened in July 1949. Originally called Stolica (Capital), in February 1997 it was renamed and became home to the National Film Archive’s Iluzjon Cinema, screening up to 1,000 different films per year. Following much discussion, and more than a few leaks in the roof, in 2008 the building was purchased by the National Film Archive and placed on the register of historical buildings. Since January 2009, screenings have been at Filmoteka by the National Library to allow for a complete renovation. And thank God for that – it was while workmen were clanking about that a motherlode of unexploded WWII ordinance was discovered. That problem now dealt with (fingers crossed), the reopening of Iluzjon is now sketched in for May.

KINO W-Z (DEMOLISHED)

The last of Piprek’s 1940s’ cinemas. Opened in 1950, it was the first cinema in Wola and featured the same multiple-arched roof and circular ticket office as can still be seen at Iluzjon, but eight arches instead of seven and a ticket office to the right rather than the centre. Capitalism was not kind to the W-Z: its last screening was in 1991. The building became a punk club called Fugazi, then a budget supermarket and finally a nightclub called Dekadent. Plans to make it home to the Sinfonia Varsovia came to nought and it was torn down in 2010 to make room for an apartment block.

KINO MOSKWA (DEMOLISHED)

Also opened in 1950 was Kino Moskwa, best known for the photo taken the day Martial Law was declared: an armoured personnel carrier in the snow with a large poster on the cinema advertising Czas Apokalipsy (Apocalypse Now). Designed by Marczewski and Putowskiego and originally named Wieczór, the 1,200-seat cinema was one of Warsaw’s most elegant and high-tech. But the design was judged lacking by the powers that were, a problem solved by the addition of bas-reliefs of heroic workers with hands like shovels. Hopelessly outdated by the 1990s, it was demolished in 1996, with the final screening – a film called Funny Days – projected on every Marxist's favorite date: May 1. Replaced by the Europlex building (whose own basement multiplex lasted just ten years), the only original details are the two sandstone lions which once guarded the doors to the Moskwa.

KINO PRAHA (UL. JAGIELLOŃSKI 26)

Designed in 1948 by Jan Bogusławski and Joseph Łowiński and opened two years later, Kino Praha was another modernist treasure which didn’t meet the officially

MURANÓW (UL. ANDERSA 1)

Opened in 1955, KM came in for a degree of mockery when it was first unveiled; set under the grand gateway to the Muranów housing development, cynics declared it, 'a triumphal arch for housewives returning with their shopping.' Designed by Zygmunt Kleyff, the cinema itself was the first in Poland featuring two screening rooms. Michał Ptic-Borkowski’s interiors are more reminiscent of a theatre than a cinema, and come lined with signature sconces and marble floors. Well known to all Varsovian film buffs as the city’s premier arthouse cinema, even if you don’t understand the films, it’s well worth popping in, especially on Mondays when tickets are zł. 11.

SKARPA (DEMOLISHED)

Arguably the most luxurious of the Communist-era, Skarpa took three years to design and another four to build. The chief architect was Zygmunt Stępiński, who also worked on the Trasa W-Z and the MDM estate. The cinema was particularly noted for its film festival – the Warsaw Film Confrontation – tickets for which required queuing for up to two days and soon became ‘must-haves’ for everybody, and anybody, on the Warsaw cultural scene. The cinema closed in 2003 and, after housing messy parties which attracted DJs such as Tiesto, the building was flattened in 2008 to make way for what are reputedly Warsaw’s most expensive apartments. All that remains are some parts of mosaics (now found in the hospital on ul. Pileckiego) and the neon Skarpa sign, which right now holds pride of place in the entry hall of Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art.

KINO RELAX (UL. ZŁOTA 8)

Relax was built as part of the show-piece Eastern Wall development of the late 1960s. Opening in 1968 with a screening of Soviet film Wyzwolenie (Deliverance), it quickly became Warsaw’s cinema of choice, holding premiers for blockbusters such as Star Wars. A thorough renovation in 1996 put Relax at the top table once more and saw it host the premiers of The Matrix and The Pianist. Even so, it couldn’t compete in the ring with the anodyne multiplexs. The last screening was 27 October 2006, and the building is scheduled to be smashed down by a wrecking ball anytime soon. www.warsawinsider.pl

GREAT POLISH WOMEN

LEADING LADIES

KUTOR

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The former First Lady who makes no secret of her pain, isolation and marital problems in a frank autobiography

t is often said that behind every great man is a greater woman and that age-old adage has never rung more true than in the case of Danuta Wałęsa. As the wife of the Solidarity legend-turned-first democratically elected president, she embodied the Polish public's views about the proper role of a woman: a doting and devoted mother, a compassionate and supportive spouse, and a faithful upholder of religious values. But life behind the scenes was far from picture-perfect. "I was a mother, a teacher, a cook, a cleaning lady, and a nurse. I had no time to do anything else,” she writes in Dreams and Secrets, her tell-all memoir released in late 2011. In this honest, score-settling autobiography, Wałęsa describes the hurt, loneliness and the overwhelming treadmill of domestic grind she faced while her husband completed his transformation from unemployed electrician to global political icon. The constant flow of "union members, politicians, journalists and lunatics pouring into our apartment [...] created complete chaos instead of a normal home," which is why, she says, "my initial powerlessness turned into rebellion. This opposition grew in me until I exploded." LIkewise, her memoir has exploded on the Polish book scene, topping the bestseller charts.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARYSIA MASTALERZ

By blazing new trails in their respective spheres, the influence of these leading, living Polish women shaped the lives and future of their country. BY ANNA J.

DANUTA WAŁĘSA

AGNIESZKA HOLLAND

KRYSTYNA JANDA

The award-winning filmmaker focuses her camera on complex and controversial issues of the past

ot all filmmakers are created equal. Some have courage, some drive, some talent, some the powerful vision to capture controversial topics of abandonment, loss and trauma. Agnieszka Holland has all of the above. In spades. The daughter of a Jewish journalist who lept to his death by a raid by communist agents, she was born with a feisty spirit. While studying in Prague, having been rejected by the acclaimed Łódź Film School, she served a jail sentence for political activism. Her talent is undisputed; her first three films (Provincial Actors, Fever and A Woman Alone) won her praise and prestige awards from abroad while still banned in her home country by the all-seeing Big Brother. Never one to shy away from social misery and political turmoil, Holland has turned the camera lens on her homeland's experience with Fascism, Communism and anti-Semitism in films such as Europa, Europa and The Secret Garden. Facing cataclysmic experiences and fighting for survival is the theme of her Oscar-nominated brave new epic, In Darkness, which depicts the true-to-life story of Polish Jews who escaped the Holocaust by hiding in sewers. And as for her drive? "Making a film is as exciting as a drug, and without that life would be empty." Holland says, she keeps hoping, "foolishly that I will make a magnificent, intelligent, and beautiful film, which will express what noone has expressed." That "foolish hope" has clearly come true in this powerful film.

MAGDA GESSLER

The restauranteur who manages to put fantasy, frippery and a feminine touch into fine dining

ove it or not, Magda Gessler has had an influence on Poland's restaurant scene that's impossible to deny. Casual gourmet dining with contemporary Polish flavours enveloped by a floral flight of fancy? Not before she came along in 1990 and added a splash of extravagance (and flower-power kitsch) to Warsaw's dining circuit with U Fukiera. Between her avant-garde culinary innovation at Ale Gloria, the more rustic yet refined Polish ambiance at Polska, and the sleek health-focused fast-food MG outlets of the past year, Gessler's gastronomic designs have delighted and shocked and led others to explore the realms of creative expression in the kitchen. To further expand her kitchen goddess status, she hosts a radio show, has published two cookbooks (with the latest, The Spoon of Violet, coming out this spring) and runs the Gordon Ramsay-style TV show Kitchen Revolution – handing out frank, often hilarious, assessment on failing restaurants. As the ruling culinary primadonna with a delightfully flamboyant persona (and an intriguing family feud with the rest of the Gessler clan), it's no surprise that everyone with a passion for food in Poland continues to watch her every move.

Vivacity, pizzazz, plus ample natural beauty and performance skills have made her the most sought after Polish star

hanneling the essence and spirit of powerful female characters is just one of the abilities that sets Krystyna Janda apart from other Polish film and stage actresses. Not only has she played memorable figures in over 80 feature films, including a documentary film-maker in her debut performance in Andrzej Wajda's Man of Marble, and a sexually-charged singer in Ryszard Bugajski's Interrogation that earned her a best actress award in Cannes, she can also write and direct a cast of characters with the best of them. Her voice and vision are apparent in the book-to-screen psychological drama Pestka (Core), her directorial debut about a poignant love triangle, and in her theatre and TV productions, which include Ibsen's Hedda Gabler and Witkacy's Panna Tutli-Putli. Moving beyond theatre and acting, Janda has also spread into the realm of music – with successful albums such as Chewing Gum and Dancing - Gold Collection – and writing, having penned essays, novels and numerous articles. As the founder and president of the Krystyna Janda Foundation for Culture, she has also broadened Warsaw's cultural landscape with the establishment of Theatre Polonia and OCH-Teatr.

ZOFIA KIELAN-JAWOROWSKA

The paleontologist who approaches fossils from a humanistic perspective

unting for dinosaurs in far-away lands may be the dream vocation of science-minded child, but Zofia Kielan-Jaworowska has made it her life work to uncover and study the secrets of vertebrate fossils. As an intellectually fearless paleobiologist who is always curious and deeply serious about science, she pioneered a series of fossil-hunting expeditions to Mongolia's Gobi dessert throughout the 1960s-70s and wrote about the findings in various books and publications.

DOROTA MASŁOWSKA

The sassy young writer who shook up the Polish literary scene

mould-breaking literary sensation and runaway bestseller, Masłowska is probably one of the smartest, coolest and funniest young wordsmiths to have come out of Poland in the last few decades. With a finger on the pulse of the country's rebellious generation, her audacious and linguistically callous debut novel Snow White and Russian Red has been adapted for the big screen; her media-satire rap prose-poem The Queen's Peacock won her Poland's top literary award and her theatre play, A Couple of Poor, PolishSpeaking Romanians has toured across the world. www.warsawinsider.pl

48 HOURS IN KRAKÓW

High life: Hotel Stary, official England team base

THE KRAKÓW OUTSIDER

Three friends seperated by the fluid nature of expat living are reunited in Kraków... What could possibly go wrong? BY ALEX WEBBER

10:00 I’m in Warsaw Central, struggling to recognize a

station I was once so comfortably familiar with. The smells have gone. So has the source of them – the cat meat kebabs and the crooked old tramps. Instead it’s sterile and sanitized and gets me lost. Not that that’s a worry. My train is three hours late. All of a sudden I don’t want this trip.

17:00 Kraków... at last. Hotel Spatz (spatz.pl). As a

long-term resident of Poland I sometimes forget that carrying ID makes check-in smoother. “So, you have lost your passport?” tuts the receptionist. “No. I’ve left it in Warsaw. I live in Warsaw.” “So it is lost!” she declares triumphantly, not comprehending a word that’s been said. This continues for a few minutes, and my best Bambi eyes are clearly not working: “Look, if you’re worried about me running off, how about I just pay now?” Bingo, these are clearly magic words as within a shake of the wallet I’m puffing up four flights of stairs to my room in the attic. It’s smart, clean,

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a r c h 2 0 1 2

pleasant. And cold. It’s -18 outside, and doesn’t feel a whole lot more Australian inside. On my way out I hazard this is worth mentioning to the staff. “Hiya, the room’s a bit Baltic, any chance of fiddling with the heating?” “Ah, yes,” comes the answer, “we have problems with some of the rooms, but don’t worry, I’ll have a look.” The receptionist has a fix-it attitude that I immediately distrust. We’ll see about that, I mutter to myself.

17:30

Bored of waiting for me the lads have already mobbed up down the street. They’ve found a restaurant called Sąsiedzi (sasiedzi.oberza.pl) which on-entry looks like a twee English teahouse. Downstairs though, it’s a different story, and the place unravels in a tangle of rooms that resemble a Hobbit’s hideout. The menu’s just as curious, with mystifying dishes such as lemon grimace and zander in hand with cocks. And it’s excellent. My chills are vanquished courtesy of a chocolate paranoia and we’re ready to move.

18:30

Bill paid, taxi sorted. We arrive on the doorstep of the Hotel Stary for an appointment to tour the hotel where England’s Euro2012 squad will be billeted. It’s mere meters from the square, which in the grip of Jack Frost is empty. But come summer it’ll be thronged, no doubt with English beer monsters scaling the statues before reenacting token scenes from the Battle of Hastings. At first, it feels curious that the English FA have chosen this as their home.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

he transient, nomadic existence of the expat is a funny one. You forge fierce friendships and then piff, the next moment they’re gone – to the other side of the world with no forwarding address. At least that was the case. Nowadays, the advent of Skype and Facebook has changed the game. And it was during one such Skype I found myself nattering to a couple of friends who’d since moved to Wrocław. “You know what,” I wrote, “we ought to hook up for a boy’s weekend somewhere… like Kraków.” “Great idea,” they hooted in tandem, “when?”

Time out in the Hotel Stary bar

Nonetheless, the Stary is reputed to be Kraków’s most luxurious hotel, though you wouldn’t necessarily guess looking at the discreet entrance. But the reason for its stellar reputation becomes apparent as our jaunt proceeds. It’s beautiful; more of a palace than a place and a pearl at that. And the rooftop terrace offers a great snipers vantage point should Wayne Rooney decide to take out the hejnał player one early morning (he’s the trumpet dude who toots Kraków awake on the hour, every hour, to honor a bugler who saved the city from Tartar conquest). Elsewhere, in the medieval cellars, we view a swimming pool with a vaulted brick roof, and a chillout cave melded from imported Dead Sea salt. But it’s Room 100 that steals the show. That’s where the England manager will be lodging for the duration. Decorated with frescoes and friezes from the 15th Century, it’s the final word in luxury living. “Fabio Capello doesn’t know what he’s missing,” comments one of the chaps in reference to the recently departed England coach. With the tour complete, we take time out to wallow in the hotel bar. Here it’s all upholstered leather and beautiful stonework. And there’s a whisky trolley. “That’s a fantastic choice,” commends the barman on seeing me playfully handling a cool looking bottle. “The whisky is 160 years old, Louis XIII, and the bottle itself is handmade crystal.” Crikey. “And how much would it cost?” I casually enquire. “That one is zł. 700 for a shot, or zł. 14,000 for the bottle.” Gulp. All of a sudden I know what it’s like to work for a bomb disposal unit. I place it down, carefully, then edge away slowly and back to my beer.

20:00

Judging by the foot traffic it’s a slow night by Kraków standards, but that’s not stopping us. I’ve been coming to the city for years, and my first port-of-call, occasionally my only port-of-call, is Nic Nowego (nicnowego. com), a ‘modern Irish bar’ with nary a Celtic scarf in sight.

Unhappy hour in Manzana bar

“ The rooftop terrace

offers a great snipers vantage point should Rooney decide to take out the hejnał player”

On the contrary, here it’s all gloss and polish, complimented by outstanding Guinness and a landlord, Tom, whose a mine of info and local intrigues.

22:45 Kebab stop. Corner of Grodzka/Dominikańska. No wonder there’s a church nearby, this is a satanic experience, and I know straight away I’ll be regretting it later.

23:00 If the old town nightlife is slow, then that’s no

surprise. The locals are all down in the former Jewish district, Kazimierz. We’ve stopped in the Mexican bar, Manzana (manzana.com.pl), below the hotel. It’s empty, and with Margaritas priced at zł. 39 a throw it’s not hard to see why. We leave (half our drinks as well – yuck), and move to pl. Nowy. Kazimierz, and pl. Nowy especially, were once synonymous with anarchic dive bars shrouded in shadow and smoke. The area has since seen rapid gentrification, though some of the old timers survive to this day – places like shambolic Singer and arty Alchemia. In these it’s all beads and dreadlocks and misanthropic actors; the party fuelled by lakes of lager. At one point, I note, someone has fallen off the bar and is lying on the floor waggling his legs. “Looks like an upturned turtle,”quips one bloke, steadfastly forgetting to offer the fallen hero his hand. www.warsawinsider.pl

48 HOURS IN KRAKÓW

Blast from the past: Stylowa, Nowa Huta

“ It’s a time portal to a

9:00 Firstly though, there’s other priorities. A fortifying British breakfast at Nic Nowego, chased with a fat morning shot of Guinness. Welcome to my world.

Nowa Huta. We’ve made it, and in one piece. The likable Jurek has stopped on Al. Róź, formerly Lenin Alley, and sensing our shivers leads us to Stylowa, the first restaurant in town. It’s an authentic leftover, with stained tablecloths and posters announcing a golden oldies dance night. Christmas decorations still hang from the Stalinist pillars, though it’s hard to tell just which Christmas they’re from. “A lot of high ranking party members were posted in this area,” says Jurek, “so this restaurant was really exclusive.” I stifle a laugh. He thwacks down a photo album, and the sci-fi Nowa Huta of old comes alive. Then, out of nowhere, he produces a miniature statue of Lenin, a keepsake prized by Stylowa. “The real Lenin statue wasn’t far from here,” he tells us. “In 1979 there was a bomb attack on it, though the only damage caused – apart from to his heel – was shattered windows. A lot of people knew the guys who did it, but no one snitched.” Now, alas, Lenin has gone, snapped by an eccentric Swedish millionaire who donated it to a modern art museum; where, apparently, he’s had a bit of a punk makeover, with a cigarette and earrings decorating his form.

10:00 Bang on time, Jurek from Crazy Guides (crazy-

11:30

different world, and a pointy reminder that life under communism wasn’t like the postcards”

8:01 I make a promise to stab the nerd who invented the alarm clock. The heating in the room hasn’t been fixed, and to my added concern the shower’s not much better. Or the hairdryer. The rest of the team haven’t experienced the same problems, but I’m leaving and they’re coming with me. That’s the way it is.

guides.com) arrives outside the pub. He’s here to take us on a tour of Nowa Huta, a communist city created from scratch in the post-war years. And what better way to do so than in a clapped out Trabant. On seeing the car the natural instinct is to laugh. But it’s the kind of nervous laugh you give when you’re told to brace for crash landing. Given I’m the shape of Humpty Dumpty, and my two companions are living beanpoles, I struggle to think how we’re going to fit in. And we’ve got our luggage. But we do, albeit squashed into some human pyramid. From my vantage point, peering under someone’s elbow, I can see the contents of an enemy vehicle pointing and jeering at us. From the outside it must look like we’re engaged in a game of Twister.

10:30

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I’m staring at all manner of loot from the PRL years: yellowing newspapers, plastic plants, 70s gadgets and a Solidarity flag. We’re in a perfectly preserved communist-era flat, and the undisputed highlight of the Crazy Guide trip. It’s a time portal to a different world, and a pointy reminder that life under communism wasn’t like the postcards.

12:00 We’re heading back to Kraków, but not without

first stopping at the Hutnik stadium – England’s training ground in their upcoming campaign. Pronounced ‘a dump’ by The Sun, I wonder what it’ll look like in four months’ time. Will the graffiti asking “Where is Herb?!” still be there when the England team disembark from their bus?

All on board the battle wagon

12:30 Kraków. For tonight I’ve chosen the Qubus Hotel as base (qubushotel.com). Last time I stayed here it was on a press junket courtesy of some real estate firm. Cleverly, they told the hotel to empty the mini-bar before I did. That’s not the case this time, and for a few minutes we stroll around our kingdom surveying the surrounds. Verdict: spanking modern and a good home for the night. 13:00 The Qubus is located in the Podgórze district – across the river from Kazimierz and Old Town. Most people have a cardiac at the thought of staying anywhere outside these zones, but that’s more fool them. Podgórze is a tamer version of our very own Praga, a bit scuffed and shaggy but set for great things. It’s also home to a fair share of history. It was here the Nazis built the Jewish Ghetto, and not far away you’ll find Oskar Schindler’s factory. Immortalized in print and on-screen, it’s now an outstanding museum and a maze of dioramas – one of which recreates the nottoo-distant Płaszów Labour Camp. No expense has been spared creating this museum, and I rate it up there as one of the best that I’ve seen. 16:00

Kazimierz is a different prospect during daytime and walking its alleys you appreciate the past. Intricately decorated synagogues appear at every turn, their airbrushed form in stark contrast to the ‘New Cemetery’.

AVOID THE DRAMA AND DELAYS THE INSIDER EXPERIENCED GETTING TO KRAKÓW: RENT A CAR INSTEAD. POLAND'S CULTURE CAPITAL IS 293KM SOUTH ON THE E77. JOURNEY TIME: 4 HRS 30 MINS.

Low life: communist living in Nowa Huta

Restoration has been slow here, and many of the tombs lie twisted to awkward angles long set by time. It’s both eerie and haunting, and leaves me with a heavy feeling as I exit its gates.

17:30

Among my many vices is a penchant for books. Amazon is my principal beneficiary, but no trip to Kraków can ignore Massolit (massolit.com). This is how bookstores should be: full of cobwebs and dust and thousands upon thousands of ragged looking books. I could live here, and some people try – don’t think it’s rare to find earnest bookworms getting here the moment it opens, before ordering a coffee and settling in for the day.

19:00

Now armed with bag of cerebral titles, it’s off to the Old Town. Plans to make the Rynek Exhibit have been put paid by timekeeping, and the rest of the itinerary is filed under ‘another time’. One of the lads stares up from his tourist comic before announcing: “Kraków’s Old Town has the highest concentration of pubs in the world…”

19:02

“... But certainly not the best,” we chime together as we exit a drinking dungeon beset with mold. The rest, I’m afraid, is a bit of a blur.

3:00ish Hotel (heated). Goodnight Kraków. Warsaw Chopin Airport Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79

• Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • Affordable prices to match your budget • Friendly staff who willingly speak English www.warsawinsider.pl

HANDMADE

SWEET DREAMS

It might not make the dentist happy, but it will make the kids. Move over Willy Wonka, there’s a new sweet factory in town. BY KIT F. CHUNG

atent childhood memories are powerful stuff. We’re not talking about the kind that lands your back on a shrink’s leather upholstery, but the sort that empowers one to go forth and mould a sugar den, as in the case of Maciej Jacyno-Onuszkiewicz, the founder of Manufaktura Cukierków. “When I was young, I was fortunate enough to travel,” recalls the still very young 25-year-old Maciej. While in France and Spain, he encountered shops where hard sugar candy was produced in full view of the customers. The chefs kneaded and stretched molten sugar into smaller-than-groszy-size sweets embedded with shapes, like strawberry, sunflowers and watermelons. He filed that away under “wow, that’s impressive” and went on to read

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 M a r c h 2 0 1 2

Economics at university. After graduating, the enterprising chap thought, “wouldn’t it be nice to run a business that can make everyone smile?” Yes, you’ve guessed it – the embedded episodes from childhood travel unhinged themselves from subconscious storage, popped into front-row consciousness and Manufaktura Cukierków was born late last year. So far, so smooth as a story for, “what inspired me to start my biz.” No saccharin tales of childhood friendship though when it comes to how Maciej roped Waldemar Więcława into the business. “I wanted the most experienced person,” states Maciej on his decision to hire his criterion. Chef Więcława had clocked over 30 years in the confectionary trade, and nabbed runners-up spot in an international pastry chef face-off in Paris in 2008. The chef’s scores of accolades adorn the walls of Manufaktura Cukierków, distracting any inquisitive eyes from a wall stencil of the Smurfs’ arch nemesis, Gargamel. And the sugar daddy not only has the paper qualifications, but the charismatic chops to pull off the show and tells. Despite speaking only Polish, during my visit he easily kept a group of kiddies from a French kindergarten enthralled. At weekends, his captive audience is broader, with both juniors and parents marveling at the potentials of pliant, gooey sugar. “Tasty, isn’t it?” Maciej asks a short visitor. He then continues to explain – to the parents – that all the colors except blue are made from natural ingredients. “We often get questions from our customers whether our ingredients have animal matter. No, it’s all plant-based, so it’s vegetarian,” the owner explains while the chef stacks beet-colored logs to create a strawberry cake. I wasn’t wild about boiled sweets, but the store has so many flavors I was soon swayed to try the liquorice, fennel and cappuccino ones. Aside from the roll call of fruits (apple, orange, pear and lemon), there are also tempting blends, like strawberry with yoghurt, apple with mint and coke with lemon. The demos are FOC. So are the opportunities to get hands-on and make lollypops yourself. To take home your edible artwork though, a lollypop costs zł. 9, while a bag of candy coins goes for zł. 7 or zł. 15 in a jar. You can reserve a slot for larger groups on weekdays as well; the charge is zł. 10 per head but you do get your money’s worth in sweets. For the regular demos on weekday evenings and weekends, no bookings are accepted. For the full demo schedule, check their Facebook page. www.manufaktura-cukierkow.pl ul. Tamka 49, tel. 692 888 751

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF MANUFAKTURA CUKIERKÓW

“ At weekends, his captive audience is broader, with both juniors and parents marveling at the potentials of pliant, gooey sugar”

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . American & Tex-Mex . . . . Asian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Balkan & Russian. . . . . . . British. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Greek/Middle Eastern. . . Home Delivery . . . . . . . . .

THIS MONTH:

* 11 updates

RATINGS p.42 p.42 p.43 p.44 p.45 p.34 p.45 p.46 p.51

Indian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . International & Fusion. . . Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . . Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p.46 p.48 p.54 p.57 p.58 p.39 p.59 p.38 p.59

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course. child friendly $ mains under vegetarian friendly zł. 30 delivery $$ mains breakfast menu zł. 30-55 free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2011 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF KAPRYS

HOT FIND

“ I had been expecting a decent-sized piece of nice white meat, not the full thing: head, eyes and the rest”

Kaprys ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Warsaw has seen its fair share of culinary casualties over the years, with one street in particular, Krucza, excelling as something of a graveyard for new ventures. Located just a few shots away from the city center, it’s seen as big a turnover as any other in recent years, with new ventures attempting to gamely compete with their more established neighbors. The newly opened Kaprys is one such place, but like so many others before it aims to offer a bit of everything without ever deciding what it actually wants to be. The owners obviously planned to create a swanky little eatery, as evidenced by the dark blue walls, white table cloths, and expensive looking light fixtures, but somehow it just misses the mark. Take the service for example. Upon entering, myself and “the American,” who was accompanying me for the evening, had to wait a full five minutes before anyone came out from the back to serve us. Given that we were the only two people there, it was a disappointing start – though to give him his due, our waiter did put on a decent performance after that. Then there’s the food, with a menu containing steak tartar, spicy Korean noodles and Italian pasta dishes, it’s difficult to say what style of cuisine it is. However, my starter of beef carpaccio was actually really tasty, raising hopes for the sea bass I ordered as a main. But I had been expecting a decent-sized piece of nice white meat, not the full thing: head, eyes and the rest, lobbed onto my plate. That, and the fact that my side dish of potato wedges, which were recommended by the waiter, tasted like they’d come frozen from a bag, didn’t leave the best taste in my mouth. But that’s not too say Kaprys is bad; it’s just not that great, and given that it isn’t cheap and it’s located on Krucza, then the omens don’t look too good. (DI)

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EATING OUT cafés

5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries. Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high. Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:0022:00; Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware! One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest. Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00. A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles. Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559. Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior that is intellectual in spirit.

Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc. Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop. For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing. Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00. This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display. Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-

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23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Roskosz ul. Wiolinowa 2a, tel. 22 111 5015, www.caferoskosz.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Ursynów is a bit of a dead end when it comes to social life, so a big welcome to Roskosz, a cool café with retro interiors that scream ’80s Eastern Bloc. Decorated with chunky phones and primary colors it’s a cheeky look at the good ole’ days. Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French- speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long. Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts. Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available,

CAFÉS and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101. Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day.

A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes. Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers. Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet

treats. Also open in chillier weather. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:0017:30. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up.

The Real Taste of Coffee! Prawdziwy smak kawy!

Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An intriguing cross between a chilledout bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or postwork sheesha. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty. Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart. Order at the street side hatch for a take-away lunch.

www.moccamaster.pl Best selling coffee machine in Scandinavia.

Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 32. Open 10:00-19:00.

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EATING OUT >> Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids. Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; different brands from a dozen countries are Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun available. Handmade pralines and truffles, 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and displayed almost like jewels, come in a a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting. mint to almonds. Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777. Further evidence that the Wilcza/Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes

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crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad. Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00. Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must! Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689,

CAFÉS www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00. Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffee-colored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road. Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669. Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions

and screenings mean no night is the same. Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close. Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods. Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00. Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses. Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132. Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers. Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack. Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate

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EATING OUT >> the standards they’re known for. Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers. To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended.

packs out for slideshows and seminars.

Wygodny Rower Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. 888 498 498, www. wygodyrower.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00. A cycle themed cafe with bikes on the wall, a black and white look and cushions made from Hessian coffee sacks. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

wine bars

C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond.

Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00. Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouthwatering selection of goodies for your sugar fix.

Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) the colonnades outside, this was easily the Al. KEN 95, tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl. hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s in Hoxton, London. BEST WAWA 2011 Ursynów district. Its name comes from the “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner album that Miles Davis recorded in the 80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, Vespa Café (D6) www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00. just outside the Old Town, this minimalist A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office from top European makers are impressive building. Unlimited free internet access and and the prices are very decent. plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, Wrzenie Świata (E4) www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro charul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. acterized by a casual décor and a laid-back Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop atmosphere. Includes a seasonal doubles as the events room for the Institute menu of light dishes. of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with note- Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) books and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438,

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updates

www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newly- opened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, caféstyle chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-freelunch deal accompanied by a perfectlymatched wine. Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124. Open noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

WINE BARS/POLISH Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest;

Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe. Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further. The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, >>

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EATING OUT >>

Second Look

and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Business Venue” Winner

Tamka43 ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka43.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

ired of those lunches where the table chatter is all about Sam’s divorce, the boss or Betty’s latest trip to the chiropractor? Then Tamka43 is the place for you: it’s inevitable that the main thrust of conversation will be about the food served. There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. This truly is food for the soul and art in a mouthful. Set next to the Chopin Museum, Tamka 43 is the brainchild of co-owners entrepreneur Paweł Kwiatkowski and chef Robert Trzópek. Trzópek’s pedigree, so to speak, is spotless. Originally from Gdańsk, he has worked under some of the finest chefs in the world, at Noma in Copenhagen (2011 Best Restaurant in the World) and with Ferran Adria, who is considered one of the originators of the molecular gastronomy (or deconstructionism) movement, at el Bulli. This is not a restaurant for picky eaters or for people who don’t like their vegetables. Or maybe it is, because their appearance and taste will be pleasantly unrecognizable. Our starters consisted of paper thin vegetable chips paired with a carrot/orange foam dip. The creamed broccoli soup had just the right hint of gorgonzola and the grilled chestnuts kept the banter at the table going, this time with memories of chestnut vendors in New York, Paris and Istanbul. The “pot roast” on the lunch menu (two courses out of three offered, two choices each, for zł. 39) looked – and tasted – more like filet mignon and melted in the mouth. The kaszanka (also known as black pudding or blood sausage) was served side by side with braised split duck hearts, a textural yin-yang that seemed somewhat comforting on a cold day. Miniature vegetables, appropriate to the season (think “winter = root”) were provided with plenty of surprise spices and sauces. No trip here is complete without tasting the Vegetable Ice Cream. Ours consisted of delicate scoops of deep red beetroot and ivory Jerusalem artichokes with “sprinkles” made from burnt frozen roots and tapioca powder. Side slices of raw-ish beets, dusted with anise, were unexpectedly perfect. It’s not your mother’s kitchen, but well worth the visit.

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Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TAMKA43

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$

POLISH good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$

delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon- Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$

Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $

Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520. Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$

MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $

Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$

Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner

Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves

Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-

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EATING OUT >> last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

updates

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

american & tex-mex

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$

african

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $

Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s

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AFRICAN/AMERICAN/ASIAN little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian

Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

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EATING OUT >> Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties. Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$

Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake. It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds

so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The

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shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce. Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Summer’s gone, and with it one of the best gardens around. Instead, enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$

BALKAN/BRITISH/FRENCH Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $ U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated

with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

british

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc. pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/ black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water

tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under- represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside. Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This >>

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EATING OUT >> beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

greek & middle eastern

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www. fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www. lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu.

Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Paros ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll

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spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris.pl. Open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. A fantastic place for a lively group dinner. $$

indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese. $$ Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $

GREEK/INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance. The food is top quality, and the prices fair. And those looking for something a little more high-end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see below). $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb

and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Ganesh Express ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express? More like Total Ga- -sh Express. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www. indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily,

unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices. pl. Open 11:00-20:00. With the revamp complete and the builders gone, diners can now concentrate on good Indian standards in a cosmopolitan interior. Some claim it’s emerging as one of the top curries in town, a once optimistic opinion that’s >> fast gathering pace. $

www.warsawinsider.pl

EATING OUT >>

international & fusion

12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$

Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the

night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. They’re closing in on their first birthday, but this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Served on wood boards, the steak are beyond reproach, served up by staff in butchers aprons. Drawing celebs and execs, the food is beyond reproach, as proved by their predictable triumph at Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant awards. Bookings are essential. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A woodlooking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$

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Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small ice skating rink in the park that it views. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:00-23:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices. Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30,

INTERNATIONAL 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$

6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. The roof terrace aside, Moonsfera’s many glories include a creative menu honed by a team who clearly enjoys the odd experiment. And my, the menu reads like a love letter: grilled sirloin marinated in bison grass, dressed with cream of liver and chestnut >> crumble... Mmmm. $$

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00; Sat 9:00-17:00.

Likus Concept Store (D3)

Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$

H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $

Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$

Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$

Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$

Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$

Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily

Colston Bassett Stilton is the most famous British blue cheese; handmade in the picturesque village of the same name, this gourmet cheese is rich and creamy and goes beautifully with sweet wine like Porto, or French classics like Sauternes. In Poland, you’ll only find it available exclusively from La Fromagerie. www.warsawinsider.pl

EATING OUT >> Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Kid Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head

their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner

Quick Steak (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 530 969 999, www.quicksteak.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0024:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. So it’s not Butchery & Wine, but this place really isn’t too bad. Even so, you’ve got to question the wisdom of anyone who opens a burger and steak joint next to Hard Rock. Going in the ring with the undisputed champion of Americana is pretty audacious, not to say foolish. There’s only one winner there, and it’s not these bods. R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re

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better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00; 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the

INTERNATIONAL place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails aren’t. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant Design” Winner Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188,

www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open MonFri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-24:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$

Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24Hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana. >>

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Greece and the wider Mediterranean, guests are right to expect a full five star experience. And while the focus remains on Greece, diners are not limited to just Hellenic cuisine. Portuguese dishes play a part in the repertoire, with the chef recommending the bacalhau – dried trout. Of course, there’s so much more to the Mediterranean kitchen than just food alone. Part of the very experience is about living, enjoying and having a good time. At Paros you’ll find live music on Friday night, with the customers getting into the spirit and joining the party. Saturday’s, too, are red letter days – don’t be surprised to find waiters dancing the zorba while the clients dance around, among (and sometimes on) the tables. Greece is not your typical country, much like Paros is not your typical restaurant. As unique as they come, it’s a fresh, innovative take on an ancient cuisine. Paros Greek & Mediterranean Restaurant ul. Jasna 14/16 tel. 22 828 1067 www.paros-restaurant.pl

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Diners spending more than zł.150 are in line for a complimentary bottle of wine (or beers for the British!) courtesy of the house: wave a copy of the Insider at your waiter, and they’ll do the rest!

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EATING OUT >> Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.

delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talkedabout venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00-last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $

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La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. You get the idea not even the A Team can save these guys. They’ve been open for minutes, but have already found themselves universally slammed by bloggers, critics and foodies alike. Surely it can’t be that bad? Watch this space for our verdict next month. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by awardwinning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:0023:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza

ITALIAN parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to

keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets.

Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$ Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:0022:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 22 849 5674, www.balgera.pl.Open 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas

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EATING OUT >> and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and

updates

well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311,

www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the

HOT FIND Espressamente Illy ul. Marszałkowska 62, tel. 22 626 8115, www.espressamente-illy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:45-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

“ I took my Italian friends there a few days later – and they kept coming back”

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t may be a coffee shop branded by one of Italy’s biggest bean producers, but my friends and I just call it Fabio’s. The coffee’s great, but what brings us here is the delectable cuisine cooked by Fabio – a beefy Italian straight from the mother country. You’d never guess it, but one of Warsaw’s best Italian restaurants is parked smack in the center of the city, on Marszałkowska just off of Pl. Konstytucji. The gleaming glass and silver don’t exactly make one think of a spaghetti bolognese, but Fabio’s reputation keeps the regulars coming. I first met Fabio when he was running a small place in Mokotów a few years ago. I was immediately dazzled by his grandpop charm and the incredible seafood pasta he created: firm and covered with a wonderfully tangy sauce and perfect shrimp. It was a dream. I took my Italian friends there a few days later – and they kept coming back. But the place eventually fell into the cracks that make Warsaw’s restaurant business so inscrutable and infuriating. But Fabio is back, thank goodness, and now even closer to my apartment. And even though Bacio and Delizia are closer, I skip out on the fussy décor of those fancier spots and head to Fabio’s for food that really tastes like it was made the way it should be: with a lot of care and authentic ingredients. The salads are huge – bursting with capers and veggies, enough for a meal in itself. Otherwise, the pastas are magnificent, especially the chili pepper and sausage. But for the real perfect meal try the filetto di manza. This steak is cooked in a white wine and tomato reduction, later topped with gorgonzola. Mmmm. Wines run less than zł. 10 per glass for a really good house – I was having too much fun to identify the terroir this time, forgive me. I’m usually too stuffed to opt for dessert, but the tiramisu is pretty good, although not the best I’ve ever had, so it’s better to fill up on the mains and finish with a shot of espresso – and a dash of grappa perhaps? This is one of those best-kept secrets that totally defy expectation: a coffee shop that just happens to be a prime dining spot. I’ve finally decided to share my secret with the rest of Warsaw – it’s just too good to keep to myself. (AL)

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF RUBIKON

ITALIAN/SUSHI tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease

the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity. Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo. pl.Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium

with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $

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EATING OUT >> Maguro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www. magurosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice

Street Food *

Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch (or inside) with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies.

Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. A game changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw – i.e. those of us who rush to the pub on Friday without eating. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers (inc. Philly cheese steak!), and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS.

nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

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updates

latin

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$

LATIN/SEAFOOD/DELIS Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$

The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican. pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

quality fish, so the appearance of this place is welcome indeed. While it works as a shop, as a restaurant you’re basically talking about eating inside a fishmongers piled high with the scaly, floppy bodies of dead starey fish; it’s not quite the most romantic experience you’ll have. $

seafood

African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

specialty food shops

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www. biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. >>

Top Fish ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 556 8560, www.topfish.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Thurs-Sat 10:00-23:00. Warsaw’s not known for its top

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EATING OUT Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul. Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:3021:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A bistro/cheese specialist with hard-to-find brands from across Europe. Also cider, conserves, marmalades and meats imported from Italy and France. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. BEST WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 1307, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

updates

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

TOP SHOP Winoteka Sami Swoi ul. Mokotowska 1 (Zebra Tower), www.winoteka-samiswoi.pl. Open Mon-Wed 11:00-21:00; Thurs-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. y wife first discovered Winoteka Sami Swoi while returning from Polna Market, and came home raving about the pomegranate juice: a juice she usually buys at zł. 14, but which was retailing here for something like zł. 6 (juices sit in just-opened boxes at practically wholesale price). Unsurprisingly, given the name, she was also quick to credit the wine options, which seemed all the better their wide range of prices. Given this, when it came to my turn to do the Polna shopping run, I couldn’t resist popping in. And I’m so glad I did – immediately, I started planning the beginnings of my own private wine cellar (well, wine closet) to fit into the flat. The Italian selection alone warrants a visit, but the selection of African wines is certainly a topper. And they also excel when it comes to my other indulgence: Italian coffee. Match this with a rotation of special offers that seem to come and go, and you have an off-license of considerable repute. (KD)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

THIS MONTH:

4 updates

SECTIONS bars & pubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 62

jazz clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.65

clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 65

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PIES CZY SUKA

“ Locally speaking, most bars in this genre draw from a shallow pool of custom: ex-pats, business bods and genetically modified bimbos”

Pies czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

tyle conscious it might be, yet for a city as image obsessed as Warsaw it’s a surprise to learn that cocktail bars just don’t figure highly in local lore. In fact, cocktail culture round these parts has been in danger of reversing into a lake ever since the lamented abortion of the brilliant Essence. Finally, however, it appears Warsaw’s cocktail cats have a new venue to add to their midnight prowl, and it’s exactly what a cocktail bar should be – innovative, edgy and a clean break from the norm. Locally speaking, most bars in this genre draw from a shallow pool of custom: ex-pats, business bods and genetically modified bimbos. Pies czy Suka is a little more diluted in this respect, with a custom base that encompasses, well, anyone looking for something off the mainstream. And mainstream this is not. Set in a restored courtyard, it shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind of design store which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues; weird, and well worth perusal prior to the real job in hand.

Who knows, you might come away with a life-size plaster cast of a horse – try explaining that to a cab driver at 3am. But enough of that, I was here for the bar. Gun-metal grey and with cool catwalk sounds, it’s still very much a work in the progress – I visited during opening week, and it was still missing a totally vital link: bar stools. And if there’s one place you want to be sat on the frontline, it’s here, eyeballing the barman as he redefines cocktails. There’s only seven on the menu, but what they lack in choice they make up for with style; I certainly wasn’t expecting to be eating the Zimowy Eksperyment. Fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques, this vodka-based mousse was finished in minutes. The Smoked Plum New Fashioned was less successful, but what came next sent me to space: the Dr. Collins Killer, topped with a vodka lemon foam, is pure inspiration, and when the weather gets warmer it’ll become my drink of habit. In the meantime, find me tanking the Mad Bitch, a house drink inspired by that seminal Polish tipple: Mad Dog. Made using a top-secret recipe, it’s just the trick on an ice blue day. Much like the bar, it’s the very shot the local scene needed. (AW) >>

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GOING OUT >>

bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00. Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives. Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647. Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider. Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road). Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries. Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder.

Café Colombia ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Colombia has proved something of a hit since opening, and the upstairs cocktail section is a primary reason. The list here goes way beyond the standard Collins creations, and even includes pitchers of Pimms. Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look. The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Scaremongers and dodgy websites claim this place as closed – lies!

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updates

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Czytadło (C1) ul. Freta 20/24. Open 11:00-last guest. The chilly service borders hostile, and you may find the majority of their beers out of stock. Outback, past the book lined front room, the smoking room alleviates the gloom. Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest. Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters. Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends

BARS & PUBS that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night. Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838. Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone? Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Meta na Mazowieckiej ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00. A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the

Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside. Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 18:00-1:00, Fri 18:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:002:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-tokill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance. Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. A fab Insider discovery snuck to the side of the Jewish Theater. Doubling as a record shop, find the crimson interiors dusted with album covers, mismatching seats and tilted lampshades. Giving it an extra lift are a knockout beer selection and unpredictable schedule of equally unpredictable live performances: ‘the improvised live music’ is occasionally great. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries. Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by a crew of pros who know their trade inside out. Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13,

www.warsawinsider.pl

GOING OUT >> tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends. Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from

street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore. Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell. Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best cocktails. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” Winner

HOT FIND

Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a

1811 club by Theatro ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00 (and special events)

“ More intimate than the recent rash of megaclubs, it hits a rare middle ground – seemingly exclusive but perfectly accessible”

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here’s nothing unusual about the resto-bar concept; in Warsaw terms, the Siamese collaboration of the two has long been accepted. But what can you expect of a restaurant-club? Personally, having survived now defunct horror shows like Barbados, I wasn’t thinking much. So, Theatro is a pleasant surprise. The Insider enjoyed a fab meal here last month, but running a restaurant and running a club are two different things. What would the descent down the stairwell deliver? Comprising of a blue-lit L-shaped space, I found myself gratefully surprised. I had placed bets on a lairy design anchored on glitz and bling. It was nothing of the sort, just a nice pleasant space whose extravagances were limited to a crushed glass bar as seen in Sense. Oh, and a disorientating toilet clad in full-length mirrored glass. “Whose that good looking chap,” I found myself enquiring, only to realize I was conversing with my reflection. This hall of mirrors aside, the set-up is straight forward – nothing flash, nothing intimidating. The serving area is long and large, and neither is it sacred; on my visit, local blondynkas were conquering their vertigo and jiggling on the bar – a practice seemingly encouraged, if not by the staff then certainly the public. The music, supplied by a DJ named Nobis, was nothing revolutionary, but did the trick of filling the dance floor. That said, I’m a barfly, and my decision to remain at my battle station was amply rewarded by a steady stream of Guinness – Guinness! In a club!! Now that’s what I like. I also like smoking, and was delighted to learn they permit people like me to indulge their lungs with a heavy blast of Marlboro. More intimate than the recent rash of mega-clubs, it hits a rare middle ground – seemingly exclusive, but perfectly accessible. All in all, it’s a great party space, a point emphatically made by my head the next day. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THEATRO

BARS/JAZZ CLUBS/CLUBS mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Created by the same chaps behind the cult Warszaswa Powisle, SS is everything that the former isn’t. Set inside a 70s concrete monster this retro affair guns for a more seasoned, affluent crowd with an over 21 door policy and 80 types of whisky that range from the Welsh Penderyn and the Japanese Hibiki. Expect the bank balance to take a mauling: fifty złoty for a Lynchburg lemonade warrants a public enquiry. Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list. Up & Down (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 64. Open 17:00-last guest. Restaurant upstairs and bar downstairs – it’s for this reason the owner has come up with a brilliant candidate for the most uncreative name of 2012. Little more than a long blue-lit cellar, some may remember this as the home of the legendary Bar Below. Now it’s little more than a long, blue-lit cellar with the anonymous spirit of an airport bar – minus the customers. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong

group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people. Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events. 18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis. >>

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

jazz clubs

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

clubs

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance

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GOING OUT >> Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice. Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucer-eyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

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Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs. Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www. platiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls

THIS MONTH:

* 2 updates

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 68

accessories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 69

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 70

Insider’s Pick “ Loft Fashion sports more eclectic labels like Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli and Cerruti 1881”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF LOFT FASHION

HOT FIND

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00 (or by prior arrangement).

t’s funny how a lot of these new shops and showrooms popping up in Warsaw are hidden away from view, located on the upper floors of post-industrial lofts – Loft Fashion is precisely one of these trendy little havens of designer chic. It’s located in the ever-stylish Burakowska enclave, and right above cult design store Red Onion. Here is the most concise and well-rounded collection of premium menswear I’ve ever seen, with suits, sports jackets, cashmere sweaters, shirts, ties, shoes and everything else a well-dressed man could ever want. The suits come in a variety of styles – but all of them extremely high end in luxurious cashmeres, tweed woolens, velvets and satin to take a man from the boardroom to the ultimate black tie affair. The brands aren’t your typical Armani and such; Loft Fashion sports more eclectic labels like Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli

and Cerruti 1881, all of them absolute marvels of tailoring. There’s also a section of more casual wear, eg. polo shirts in a spectrum of pastels for prepping up for the weekend. As for the prices, suits are in the range of zł. 1,500, but some happened to be on sale the day of my visit so there are deals to be had, even here. The shop also hosts champagne parties, art openings and other events where Warsaw’s slickest gents (and their ladies) rub elbows. With this in mind, I just had to meet the man behind this shop, a dapper gentleman himself. Maxime H.L. Gourgouillat tells me he and his partners strive to keep the service impeccable, selecting the best from each country: “We specialize in Portuguese hand-made and painted shoes, Italian shirts with a numerous choice of collars and colors, Polish made-to-measure shirts, Cuban cigars and hand-tailored 100% wool French quality suits.” And ladies, too, can now forward to a separate store a few doors down. It wasn’t quite finished the day I was there, so stay tuned for more on Warsaw’s latest style developments. (AL) >>

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...TILL YOU DROP >>

fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. . The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. . This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). . Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), . CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, . www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more. Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. . Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving . a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, . www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. . Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French

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updates

shirt-and-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-ofthe-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www. loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. High quality menswear from premium labels such as Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli and Cerruti 1881. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by . Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories. Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from world-class names like Rodrigo Otazu. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, . tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, . www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, . Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

FASHION/ACCESSORIES Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and

accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, . www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, . www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty. Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish

labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

accessories

400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, . www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space. Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. . Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży. Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, . www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock >>

reykjavík district “The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone...” Warsaw Insider chose reykjavik district as their shop of the month (12.2011)

Boutique: Solec 18/20 street, +48 505 499 669 Open: Tue-Fri 13:00-19:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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...TILL YOU DROP >> up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, . www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan. Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, . tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www.

lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl.. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

home décor & interior design

ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), . tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, . www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, . www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

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updates

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl.. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving. pl. Furniture and design store with Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, . www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per . sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

LIFESTYLE Accommodation, Education and more... INDEX Accommodation ��p.72 Health and Beauty ��p.75 Community Contacts ��p.77 Medical �� p.76 Education ��p.81 Transportation ��p.73

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND Tai Chi at Uzdrowisko Mokotów ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 883 114 322, www.uzdrowiskomokotow.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCIN SZCZYGIELSKI

I’

“ It’s very much exercise for those of us who aren’t big on treadmills, but the calming element of it really carries over”

ve made it my goal to take at least one class at as many fitness centers, yoga schools and whatnot as I possibly can. My latest adventure brought me to the forts of Mokotów, which some of us know for its Balsam bar and artistic studios. It’s a cool little complex, even though it’s a pain to trudge through the mud to get there. But I’m not really a girl to let something like a little mud deter me, so I trudged ahead. Only to find out when I got there that I’d mixed up the class schedule and instead of Dynamic Yoga, I was there for Tai Chi. I’d never taken Tai Chi before – just seen videos of elderly Chinamen going through the motions in the parks of Beijing. It doesn’t exactly look like it burns a whole lot of calories – but it does seem like it calms a person down. And living in Warsaw, I’m in constant need of a bit of R&R. So I dived in, along with my friend Mariola. It turned out to be an absolutely fantastic way to get moving, particularly as my sluggish bod wasn’t up for too much exertion after battling the temperatures outdoors. It’s just as you would imagine: slow, careful, focused. Concentrating on a simple movement does in fact make one quite relaxed. I became so relaxed that I even felt like giggling at some points as stress shimmied off me as I gave in to the movement. It’s very much exercise for those of us who aren’t big on treadmills, but the calming element of it really carries over and you feel pretty good even when the class is over. The instructor was very sweet, not like many of those yoga teachers that bark at you when you’re not bent over enough. I was glad, though, to have Mariola with me as many of the exercises require a partner and I’m not big on touching strangers. The funniest bit was when we had to execute a particular routine across the room – here comes the catch – with our eyes closed. The partner is there to make sure you don’t knock yourself out. I’ve also taken yoga, and somehow found myself in a class that combined Pilates with belly dancing, at this place and I have to say it’s got a nice atmosphere. It’s clean and designed with a few exotic elements that round out the wellness experience. (AL) >>

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LIFESTYLE >>

Accommodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) Gym and swimming pool. ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, Wellness centre and sauna.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

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Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included. Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room. Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests. Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

ACCOMMODATION/TRANSPORT top hotels around Poland Northeast Poland

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling, billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel. 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries. An atmosperic converted castle that is supposedly haunted. Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl. Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

apartments

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975,

www.wawahotele.pl. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.1noclegi.pl.

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

relocation companies

mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878,

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno,

tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com.

travel agency

FCm Travel Express al. Jana Pawła II 19, tel. 22 453 5353, travelexpress.pl.

taxis

Bayer tel. 22 19697 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 Merc tel. 22 677 7777 MPT tel. 22 1919 OK Taxi tel. 22 19628 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

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LIFESTYLE >>

Health & Beauty BODY AND MIND

spas & salons

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services.

Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists. Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center. Hair-a-Porter (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558 1555. The friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women. Hair & Nail Concept ul. Marynarska 50, tel. 22 360 40404, www.hairandnailconcept.pl. Top class hair & nail care, as well as a créche and disabled facilities.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Izar Repechage ul. Molera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage. net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

fitness clubs

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year.

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HEALTH AND BEAUTY/MEDICAL Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in

Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers

a glorious panoramic view of the city which is free for hotel guests. World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

Medical

EMERGENCIES, CLINICS

Medical private clinics

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl. Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

itself as a center of orthodontics and implan- (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, tology, is really the full service with 14 dentists Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl General and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. number for information and to schedule an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777. Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N Eurodental 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl. ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, Lim Medical Center www.citident.pl. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Enel-Med Medical Centre Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia www.cmlim.pl.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www.dentalux.pl. Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151. Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

private clinics

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96. The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health. Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing

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LIFESTYLE >> Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18,

ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com. Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal

illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-hour pharmacies Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 22 822 2891. ul. Puławska 39

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED

Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl,

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mob. 603 378 567. Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi. Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl.

COMMUNITY Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com. Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl.

oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

passion with us...

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www. pff-warsaw.com. Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl.

Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl. Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03.

Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting. There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com.

Friends Creative Activities ul. Przyczółkowa 334, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl. Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl. Habitat for Humanity International (F11) This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl. International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. >> 601 897 731.

The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406. European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr. The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s

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LIFESTYLE >> International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@ yahoo.com.

new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com.

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osińska at: a.osinska@mabor.com.pl. New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Role Playing Group in Warsaw International English-speaking group in Warsaw, mostly foreign professionals, play tabletop Dungeons & Dragons fortnightly. No experience necessary but fluent English proficiency is required. Info: CreativeCowboy@yahoo.com. St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year. Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered charity. More information: www.talizman.org. Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music,

fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org. pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451. TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www.travelfriends.pl. Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com.

JOIN US NOW !

www.thelittlegym.pl Parent/Child Classes

Pre-school

Primary School Gymnastics

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Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

COMMUNITY The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate, theory, practice and field trips. For more information: www. wsfoto.art.pl/english.

children

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information. The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. pl. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the Warsaw one set to open this November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio and a ‘weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.’ Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots. com, www.mumsandtots.com.

houses of worship

after service. For more information: Rev. Robert Campbell, mob. 602 782 497 assistant.chaplain@anglicanchurch.pl, or visit www.anglicanchurch.pl. The Bahá’i Community of Warsaw (D5) Centrum Narodowe/National Centre, ul. Lanciego 13, tel. 22 353 3717. For more information: www.bahai.org.pl or bahai@ bahai.org.pl. Beit Warszawa: The Progressive Jewish Congregation Friday Shabbat services at 19:00, weekly lectures, activities and holiday events. For more information: 22 885 2638; fax 22 885 8982, e-mail: office@beit.org.pl, www.beit-warszawa.org.pl. Chabad-Lubavitch ul.Słomińskiego 19, tel. 22 637 5352, www.chabad.org.pl. The Outreach Activities of the Chabad-Lubavitch center include adult education classes, Jewish youth programs and a Talmud Torah. The center’s Glatt Kosher Restaurant offers daily Glatt Kosher meals. Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8 (Praga), tel. 500 270 990. Services are held in Polish and English. Sun 11:00 (Sunday School and Evangelistic service) and Thurs 19:00. For more information contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 500 270 990, e-mail: paulesock@ yahoo.com. www.gbc-ekb.com.

International Christian Fellowship (E10) Interdenominational services Sunday 17:00 at ul. Puławska 114. For more information: Pastor Roy Taylor at mob. 607 309 490, pastorroy.icf@gmail.com, www.icf-pl.org. Nożyk Synagogue (C4) ul. Twarda 6, tel. 22 620 0676, 22 620 4324, www.jewish.org.pl. Services Mon-Fri 8:00 and at sunset, Sat and Sun 9:30 and at sunset. Shabbat dinners Friday at the Youth Centre. Polish Christian Church: Christian Fellowship “North” (F1) Provides services translated into English and German. Sunday school for children aged 3-13, baby and toddler care, youth meetings. For more information contact Monika Sacewicz at 501 516 589 or www. schpolnoc.pl. St. Paul, the Apostle of the Nations, English Speaking Roman Catholic Parish ul. Radna 14 at the Church of St. Vincent de Paul Charitable Society, Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Miraculous Medal. No services Monday. Contact Father Wiesław Dawidowski, mob. 600 384 916, chaplain@catholic.li.pl. Warsaw Diamond Way Buddhist Center “The Stupa House”, ul. Ożarowska 65/67. Open meditations are held on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 20:00, Fridays and Sundays at 19:00. Every

Masses held in different languages in Warsaw: English ul. Radna 14, every Sunday, 11:30 (CCD, every Sunday, 10:30) Italian ul. Smoluchowskiego 1, every Sunday, 12:00. Spanish (D8) ul. Melsztyńska 12, every Sunday, 10:40. French (D8) ul. Rakowiecka 61, every Sunday, 10:45. German (E5) ul. Żytna 11, every Sunday,10.30. Anglican and Episcopal Church Meets every Sun. at 10:00 in Res Sacra Miser Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62). Sunday school during service, refreshments

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