Warsaw Insider April 2012

Boutique Bakeries page 18

Travel: Ciechanów page 30

National Stadium page 24

Warsaw Tour with a Twist

page 28

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APRIL 2012

Spring Beginnings

PHOTOGRAPH TOP KEVIN DEMARIA. BOTTOM FROM LEFT, GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS, COURTESY OF PKiN, COURTESY OF SAKANA

just love Warsaw in spring. Forget January 1, for me the Webber calendar year begins with the sighting of the first beer garden. And, having spent the last few months peering from under caveman furs, it’s nice to remember what trees are supposed to look like; while I can’t speak from personal experience, it’s a feeling that I imagine isn’t dissimilar to being let out of jail. Welcome, wiosna sings, to the first day of the rest of your life. There are, however, aspects of this season I could do without. Spring cleaning, for one. I don’t bother, which explains why my apartment usually looks like it’s been ransacked by burglars. But if my flat is buried under pyramids of rubbish, this magazine certainly isn’t. Our graphic has been working like a prisoner-of-war to tweak the look, and the results are a clearer design that’s easier on the eye. We hope you agree. I’m also hoping you agree that it’s something of a red hot issue we have this month. Much like a shelf stacker who wins the bingo, this once parsimonious city has gone nuts with its spending: a second metro line and the redevelopment of vast swathes of the town are an example. In terms of spend, spend, spend though, nothing comes close to the new national stadium. Half a billion euros!? This edition we look behind the scenes to see if it’s been money well spent. Elsewhere in the lineup, the Insider discovers another side to Warsaw on a tour with a twist, and also makes the short journey out to the little town of Ciechanów. I shouldn’t need to clarify, but the fact that one of Poland’s top breweries is out there played no part in the decision. That’s all complimented by our usual content: supermum Gill B.B writes direct from the zoo, our secret Luncheonette ponders eating a bull’s private parts, while The Mayor goes ballistic with a werewolf. So, business as usual. Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover A tinpot car squeezed between leviathan metal monsters; a familiar scene played out across the city. This issue the Insider swaps our distribution juggernaut for that little thing in the middle. For more on our four wheel tour of town, see page 28. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Insider’s TOP 3 British born, but anchored in Warsaw since 2007, Gill Boelman-Burrows is a lady of leisure, blogger, WI contributor, and a hard working mum! She maximizes her time by enjoying Warsaw through cultural and social interventions and has a hankering desire to wander with her camera. Check her column on page 22...

Warsaw Street Art America has Shepard Fairey, Britain has Banksy and now Polish duo Chazme & Sepe are hot on the trail of International Street Art stardom. Warsaw’s thriving street art is everywhere, from Chopin Mural’s to thought provoking quotes, no cranny is left untagged. Ignore ugly billboards; open your mind and I promise you’ll be hooked.

Palace of Culture It’s a hulk of a building, yet I’d get lost without it! It takes ten mins to walk round, two mins to the 30th floor viewing platform, stretches 230m high and has 3,288 rooms. Add dinosaur remains, hundreds of crystal chandeliers, monumental statues, technological triumphs and a puppet theatre and it’s a great Warsaw day out.

Burakowska 5/7 Girly lunches are the best at Sakana Sushi. Nothing beats the salmon tartar and the mayo is phenomenal on everything. Add vintage toy shopping, retro furniture, some seriously smelly cheeses, a trampoline and the most talked about wine bar and this secret garden really is the perfect city escape.

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what’s inside

APRIL 2012

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Lifestyle

05 Insider’s Pick Beethoven Festival 05 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 08 Museums Top cultural institutes 09 Films Movie openings 35 I nsider’s Pick la Tomatina 42 The Luncheonettes China Garden 56 Food Shop Top Fish

57 Insider’s Pick Pardon, To Tu

11 News in Brief Happenings around town and beyond 16 Relics of the PRL Film, food and a socialist park 18 Trends Boutique bakeries 20 Take a Building Warsaw’s Beijing estate 22 Mum’s the Word Exploring Warsaw’s zoo Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Editorial Intern Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

FEATURES

24 Inside Look Behind the scenes at the National Stadium 28 Secrets of the City An alternative tour of Warsaw 30 Travel Ciechanów 88 Why Warsaw? Event planner Liza Sherzai

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Anna J. Kutor Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Christian Swindells

69 Insider’s Pick Bizuu 73 Insider’s Pick Bio. Sis Nail Spa 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map and Street Index Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

INfront

61 Insider’s Pick Colombia 64 Hot Find Małe Piwo 66 On the Prowl... with The Mayor

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T ERRA C OLLECTION

Mokotowska 63 • Warszawa • Galeria Mokotow Warszawa • www.mokotowska63.com

Reviews: Beethoven Festival 5 / Football Exhibition 8

CULTURE EVENTS 5 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 8 / FILM 9

EVENT CALENDAR

Insider’s Pick

1 SUN Holiday Prima Aprilis (April Fool’s) April Fool’s is celebrated with gusto in Poland, and you can expect the local press to join the high-jinks: whether it’s declaring the demolition of the Palace of Culture, or the arrival of a Pied Piper-style rat catcher to hypnotize the vermin…

Concert

David Buchbinder performs at the Beethoven Festival 2011

Festival

Nosowska Och Teatr, ul. Grójecka 65, 22 622 2132, www.ochteatr.com.pl Aside from recording nine CDs with the legendary Hey group, since 1996 Nosowska has released six solo albums. This month, check out the independent rock and electro sounds of what some consider to be ‘the voice of Poland’.

16th Ludwig van Beethoven Easter Festival Filharmonia Narodowa, ul. Jasna 5, www.filharmonia.pl, Zamek Królewski, Plac Zamkowy 4, www.zamek-krolewski.pl

O PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS

rganized since 1997, and held in Warsaw since 2004, the latest installment of this headline festival kicked off at the Philharmonic on March 25, with a performance of pieces by both Beethoven and Brahms by the winners of the XIV International Tchaikovsky Competition. The festival concludes two weeks later at the same venue on April 6th, with a performance of Claude Debussy’s The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian – expect the Warsaw Philharmonic Choir to star alongside soprano Sarah-Jane Brandon. A certified member of the European Festivals Association in Gent, the festival originated as part of celebrations to mark the 170th anniversary of the composers death, and his since grown to become one of the most recognized of Warsaw’s annual events. Before the grand finale, paritcualar highlights fans can look forward to include a piano recital on April 4 by Rudolf Buchbinder as well as Beethoven pieces relating to Fidelio and Egmont on April 5. Organized by Elżbieta Penderecka, wife of composer Krzysztof Penderecki, the festival crams in symphonies, quartets, oratorios, concertos, sonatas and opera during its two week run, with performances split between the Philharmonic and the Royal Castle. Further afield, this well-established festival will be accompanied by a series of musical events across Poland that will, like the Warsaw chapter, celebrate not just the life and works of Beethoven, but of classical music in general. Ticket sales are already well under way, with some marked down to as little as zł. 10. For more information on availability check www.eventim.pl and www.beethoven.org.pl.

5 THU Film Up and Down Culture Club V9 (Dom kultury V9) ul. Hoża 9, 00-528 Warszawa, v9.bzzz.net

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CULTURE MEDIA PATRONAGE

19 THROUGH 26

Up and Down is a series of weekly screenings of alternative movies – on April 5th check out Heretik System. The V9 center also organizes various city activities, such as workshops on an oft-bizarre array of subjects: ethnodesign, upcycling and guerilla gardening (!). To see if all that actually means something, pop by Hoża 9.

of the few smooth jazz artists to penetrate the mainstream. Tickets from zł. 187, available at LiveNation.pl and Eventim.pl.

Festival Africamera 2012 VII African Film Festival Kinoteka, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, www.afrykamera.pl

9 MON

Concert Yugopolis 2 Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl They’re fresh, innovative freaks with little respect for the rules of music – or any rules for that matter. In this, their second outing, you’ll meet Natalia Przybysz (Sistars), Tymon Tymański, Dorota Miśkiewicz, Maciej Maleńczuk and many others beside for a night of seriously experimental sound. Tickets from zł. 50, available from www.stodola.pl.

Holiday

7 SAT Concert Chris Botti Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Some sneer and call it elevator music, but Botti remains one

Śmigus Dyngus A.k.a ‘wet Monday’, be on red alert for any little scrotes carrying water pistols. With its origins allegedly dating from pagan times, the habit of soaking people with water on this particular day was absorbed by the Catholic church as part of its Easter celebrations. Today, as a continuation of the tradition, it’s not unusual to find cackling lads tearing round the streets squirting the helpless and hapless with water.

Concert Pasion Buena Vista Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Cuban music was given something of a second lease of life following the global success of the Wim Wenders cult classic Buena Vista Social Club. Now those caliente rhythms arrive to Poland.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS

Some top films here, many fresh from the major festivals. Like, for instance, Restless City, nominated at Sundance. The other hit looks to be Ramata, a bittersweet love story performed by one of the first African models: Katoucha Niane. Find the festival split across four platforms: “Made in Africa”, “Africa in Diaspora”, “Africakids” and “African Rhythms”. Meetings involving many of the filmmakers also play an important part of the festival.

11 WED

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stand still. His last project, titled Men’s Play, was the hit of the Polish summer. Often spotted playing hip hop with his two sons, this time round he’ll be performing alongside Lech Janerka, one of the gods of Polish rock.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Ongoing Market Easter Market (Jarmark Wielkanocny) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2 Warsaw’s annual Easter Market gathers farmers from all corners of Poland, and while it’s not nearly as newsworthy as the Christmas Market, it’s a good chance to stock up on traditional pastries such as mazurek or baba drożdżowa (yeast-cake). Aside from that, find regional beers, cheeses, jams and suchlike on sale, as well as folk art and hand-painted eggs.

13 FRI Musical Les Misérables Teatr Roma, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, 22 621 8037, www.teatrroma.pl Based on the legendary novel by Victor Hugo, this musical bestseller was the most played show at the Roma in 2011 – don’t miss the chance to catch it, it’ll only run till the end of this season.

20 FRI Concert Voo Voo & Lech Janerka Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Wojciech Waglewski – the brainbox behind Voo Voo – doesn’t

15SUN

30 MON Reenactment Battle of the Nations Fort Bema, ul. Bema 65 Essentially a huge medieval reenactment festival, the Battle of the Nations is set to draw international groups and wannabe knights from Ukraine, Russia, Italy, Germany and Canada, amongst others, to face off in duels, ‘group battles’, and ‘mass battles’. Till May 3rd.

Concert Red Box Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Back on stage after an absence of two decades, Red Box are back to reveal new material, as well as a new violin player (Emily Maguire) and instrumentalist (Derek Adams). That’s not the only change. Front man Simon Toulson-Clarke has shaken off his rock vibe, and this outing you’ll (probably) find Red Box performing catchy, mild, middle-of-the-road tunes. Don’t be mad if we’re wrong. Tickets from zł. 99, available at www.eventim.pl and www.empik.pl.

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CULTURE Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. On April 26th join the Science Coffee Shop to talk about the pros and cons of the GMOs with professors Fikus and Hennig. Free entrance. Check their web for workshops for kids this month. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Missing Documents. Photographs of Polish Transformation after 1989 till April 15th and also Academy of Movement, City. Space for Action till April 29th.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts

The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1. Open 9:00-18:00.

t’s estimated that over 600,000 people will visit The Great Football Exhibition, which if our experiences are anything to go by means a few glum faces. Found on Floor 6 of the Palace of Culture (pay on the ground floor), the zł. 15 entrance charge isn’t just steep, it’s absurd. Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pen-

more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. After, check the sculptures set around the palace gardens. Ongoing: Collection in Królikarnia (KoLekcja w Królikarni). Till June 3rd. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans. Museum of Modern Art ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl A very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Mirosław Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing: Angry Birds,

nants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. That’s not to say there aren’t any saving graces: there’s a few interesting sign boards dotted about (random fact – the oldest known football pitch is in Mexico, and dates to an ancient time when losing captains would have their heads lopped off), as well as some cool Polish memorabilia (e.g. a pic of Bartek, Poland’s snazzy ’74 World Cup mascot). Even so, not even these curios can hide what this is – a shameless, half-cocked attempt to cash in on the Euro Championships. (AW)

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an exhibition of works from hot new Russian talents.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Ongoing: And Life Would Have to Go On. Women in Ravensbrück concentration camp Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. From April 9th join the Poster Festival Ljubljana ’11 and The Faces of Racism Revealed, an exhibition organized in cahoots with Amnesty International.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. Ongoing: Polish Inventions as seen at World Exhibitions. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www. zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora

of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing: Doubly Regained Territories, feat. the works of Bogdan Łopieński, Andrzej Tobis, Krzysztof Żwirblis and New Sculpture. From April 13th: Emotikon. Robert Rumas & Piotr Wyrzykowski.

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH

6th

TT3D: Closer to the Edge (Motocykle 3D: Jazda na krawędzi) Documentary. UK. Dir. Richard de Aragues, with Nicolas Cage and Guy Pearce

Salmon Fishing in the Yemen (Połów szczęścia w Jemenie) Drama. UK. Dir. Lasse Hallstrom, with Emily Blunt and Ewan McGregor

13th

American Reunion (American Pie: Zjazd Absolwentów) Comedy. USA. Dir. Jon Hurwitz, Hayden Schlossberg, with Jason Biggs and Alyson Hannigan Ghost Rider: Spirit of Vengeance Action. USA. Dir. Mark Neveldine, Brian Taylor, with Nicolas Cage and Ciaran Hinds

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too often for our liking, so check individual websites for the latest story. Note that most will choose Monday to close, and that many hold ‘visitor days’ once a week whereby admission prices are waived.

Drama. UK. Dir. Andrea Arnold, with Kaya Scodelario and James Howson

20th

Wuthering Heights (Wichrowe wzgórza)

She Monkeys Drama. Sweden. Dir. Lisa Aschan, with Linda Molin and Isabela Lindquist

27th

The Forgiveness of Blood (Przebaczenie krwi ) Drama. USA. Dir Joshua Marston, with Tristan Halilaj, Sindi Lacej and Refet Abazi Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close (Strasznie głośno, niesamowicie blisko) Drama. USA. Dir. Stephen Daldry, with Thomas Horn, Sandra Bullock and Tom Hanks

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INFRONT ARCHITECTURE 12 / CRIME 14 / DESIGN 12 / FOOD 14 / JOB MARKET 12 / LOCAL INTEREST 12 / MUM'S THE WORD 22 / PRL 16 / TAKE A BUILDING 19 / TECHNOLOGY 11 / TRANSPORTATION 14 / TRENDS 21

TECHNOLOGY

Fast Food Station

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Did you know, in some countries pushing a junk food diet is on a par to peddling crystal meth? Not just frowned upon, but a grave offence that will land you in jail. We’re lying, of course, but the point being it’s no longer common in the modern western world to find the consumption of cheeseburgers hailed and encouraged. So welcome to Warsaw Central Station, where one fast food franchise has opted to stick up an electronic train timetable that measures waiting times by the amount of fries and burgers you can wedge into your mouth. The crafty stunt, possibly devised by a clown, is just one more ‘improvement’ to a train station once characterized by its troop of tramps and fiercely weird odors. Now it’s all designer toilets and vending machines that dispense books, a far cry from the evil underworld which once snaked under the city. QUOTE

“Tell me what you eat, I’ll tell you who you are” Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ARCHITECTURE

Poles to the Polls All three of the new stadiums constructed for Euro 2012 found themselves shortlisted for the title of Poland’s ‘Best Building 2011’. The vote, held in March on bryla.pl, went down to the wire, with over 10,000 pollsters taking part in the online vote. With the voting closed, Gdańsk’s PGE Arena, shaped like a glowing piece of amber, found itself narrowly pipped to second by the new library in Katowice. Other nominees included Warsaw’s Wolf Bracka department store and the new look Warszawa Centralna. Gdańsk's PGE Arena

DESIGN

Easter Art

The add-on’s for a proper Polish Easter include willow branches and palmy wielkanocne (Easter Palms) as well as DIY painted eggs (pisanki). Adding a spin to the traditional folk art though, find a number of design companies incorporating traditional patterns and aesthetics to create something utterly new. Check mohodesign.com for more.

Poland has been ranked 3rd after Switzerland and the US as the destination for German job seekers.

LOCAL INTEREST

“Maybe I’ll leave the downstairs cave to the artists and open a kebab shop upstairs...”

- Grzegorz Lewandowski, owner of Chłodna 25

Scandal this month comes supplied courtesy of Chłodna 25 – the legendary cafe bar that launched a spawn of imitations. News is they face losing their alcohol license following moans about noise, a move that would effectively sign their death warrant. So, just months after spending zł. 12 million on reinventing the street into something you might want to visit, the same city gods are toying with killing off the one place you’d actually hang around for. D-Day for C25 is April 22: watch this space and keep everything crossed. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 A p r i l 2 0 1 2

PHOTOGRAPHS, TOP LEFT A. RYŚ, RIGHT KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM COURTESY OF CHŁODNA 25

JOB MARKET

INFRONT

BRIEFING FOOD

Star Power

LOCAL RESTAURANTS

CRIME

The FT Speaks

A Total Arse-onist

Tamka 43: Chef Robert Trzópek plates out New Polish dishes that would make his former masters at El Bulli and Noma spew compliments. Butchery & Wine: Hailed by Gazeta Wyborcza as 2011’s Restaurant of the Year, tables here are snapped up by diners who look as smart as the fine steaks and meaty cuts they are chewing. Platter by Karol Okrasa: For those who crave star power on and off the pitch, check out celeb chef Karol Okrasa’s designer dishes that are steeped in Polish rural roots but dressed up with catwalk chic. Atelier Amaro: If show time at the stadium wasn’t sensational enough, then book an aftergame spectacle with Poland’s closest answer to El Bulli. Expect a lineup of recherché ingredients and molecular foams. Na Zielnej: The Insider’s 2011 “Best Address to Impress” has also garnered Slow Food Poland’s endorsement with its carefully sourced local produce.

Since summer 2011, some 22 cars parked in the southern city center have been torched. The main suspect, 23-year-old Jacek T., was let off the hook in July 2011 due to insufficient evidence. After a third spate of fires in February, the cops are onto the slippery Jacek T. again. The alleged suspect went nuts after failing to gain access to a Legia match, torching five cars on Oleandrów and two more elsewhere. The son of a distinguished lawyer and Legia Warsaw board member, the pyromaniac has wormed himself out on bail and is currently subject to psychiatric treatment.

The Financial Times singled out five Warsaw spots for Euro 2012 tourists to pad their tummies. The list addresses not the kebab and kiełbasa audience but fans with a tooth for fine food:

TRANSPORTATION

End of the Line

Bus 175, ferrying passengers from the airport to the center since 1969, is in its death throes. Due to be dropped from the schedule, possibly in June, it’ll be phased out in favor of a new urban train. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 A p r i l 2 0 1 2

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT COURTESY OF MICHELIN, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY OF ATELIER BY AMARO

Released in March, the latest installment of the Michelin ‘Main Cities of Europe’ guide brought with it good news for Warsaw. Twenty two Warsaw restaurants found themselves commended, while down south seventeen Kraków eateries were given a nod. Those singled out in the capital include Amber Room and Pod Gigantami, while Butchery & Wine, celebrating their first birthday, were awarded a bib gourmand. The biggest blessing though was reserved for Atelier by Amaro, highlighted as a ‘rising star’ and hotly tipped for Poland’s first Michelin star next year.

INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89) MOVIES

Few Polish films have stood the test of time like Miś. Released in 1981, it tells the story of a sports club manager, and his muddled attempts to get out of the country and to his secret stash in a London bank. Exposing the Byzantine bureaucracy and absurdities of communism, this richly comic film is a hilarious glimpse at life behind the Iron Curtain.

LOCATION

Central Park

With spring sprung, now is as good a time as any to head down the park. But forget Saski and Łazienki, instead check out Centralny Park Kultury – or Park Marszałka Edwarda ŚmigłegoRydza as it is now commonly known. Laid out between 1950 and 1964, the Central Park of Culture forms the green buffer zone that runs between Górnośląska and Most Poniatowskiego. Built over war rubble, this former industrial zone was transformed by the vision of landscape artist Alina Scholtze and her team of little helpers: over 15,000 school children volunteered to help create this space, planting some 10,000 trees and 60,000 shrubs while music bands tooted in the background. This was so much more than a park though. In 1953 Warsaw’s first ‘dance café’ was launched – an open air arena with room for 600 couples to jiggle away. However, complaints from neighboring residential blocks curtailed its success, and that was the first in a long line of things that went wrong. By 1961 the local press were moaning about ‘hooligans’ who frequented the park, as well as the number of saucy couples misusing the flowerbeds and benches. The open air cinema closed in the 70s, experiencing marginally more success than the ill-fated circus. Touted as Warsaw’s first permanent circus, what took five years to build was shut down in 1971 – a year after opening. Today, many of the original commie elements have long been bulldozed and erased. Even so, it’s an underrated park with nuggets aplenty – not least the fearsome 1975 monument honoring wartime sappers.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: NARODOWE ARCHIWUM CYFROWE, COURTESY OF BEST FILM, COURTESY OF BAR MLECZARNIA

Available on DVD with English subtitles online or at Empik or Traffic

MILK BARS

One stubborn reminder of communism is the milk bar. Not for the manor-born, these state-subsidized eateries are easily identified through their toxic odors and lines of gnarled oldies. Alas, they’re slowly on their way out – on their way in are places like Mleczarnia (Bagatela 15), privately run enterprises that provide the full milk bar experience without any of the perils: putrid smells and muttering mad people. Light and bright, and actually half tasty, it’s a new look on an old concept.

Seta META Galareta –

“Feel the atmosphere of the PRL” Relive the atmopshere of the PRL at our two venues, enjoying an authentic menu of tatar, śledzik, flaki and bigos – chased, of course, with vodka and beer. Find that and more in our downtown Seta META Galareta restaurants. With a classic menu designed by celebrity chef Robert Sowa, it's the perfect place to visit for a pre-party, after party or THE party! Visit us to feel the amazing atmosphere of the PRL. ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21 Open 11:00-6:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

TRENDS

BY KIT F. CHUNG

The Crunch

The best thing since sliced bread is the stacks of hard, crunchy crusted loaves in town.

on’t get us wrong, we’re all for “when in Poland, eat Polish chleb”. But it’s hardly practical to leg it to France every time the teeth hanker for some crunchy-crusted baguettes to exercise on. The French hypermarkets do churn out some of their national breadsticks, but nothing really hit the right note until Café Vincent sprung into action some four years ago. At Vincent’s, you have a choice of Country, Rustic, Parisian, French and Wholegrain. “The difference is in the ratio of rye and wheat,” comments the manager, patiently explaining why their baguettes have so many names. “But the actual proportion itself,” she adds, “is a secret.” Duh. Over at Charlotte, a food and wine hangout that needs no intro, manager Wojtek Konferowicz reveals that what makes their breads so glorious is simply using leaven (instead of chemical powder) and giving the dough ample proofing time. Charlotte’s other not-so-secret weapon is Andrzej, the baker with the fedora hat, who mastered his craft in NY, Philadelphia, Denver and Scotland.

BOUTIQUE BAKERIES:

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Batida www.batida.com.pl Charlotte www.bistrocharlotte.com St. Honore www.saint-honore.pl Vincent ul. Nowy Świat 64

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Ouverture des inscriptions pour la rentrée scolaire 2012/2013 au lycée français de Varsovie Seul établissement scolaire homologué par l’Education Nationale Française à Varsovie, le lycée français accueille plus de 730 élèves de 2 ans à 18 ans. 60 % d’entre eux sont français et 32 nationalités différentes sont présentes dans les salles de classe. Le lycée bénéficie depuis sa création en 1954, du soutien de l’Ambassade de France et est géré localement par une association parentale qui s'implique activement dans la vie du lycée. Entrer au LFV, c’est entrer dans le réseau officiel des Etablissements français à l’étranger (AEFE) qui est le premier au monde de par son ampleur et sa diversité: 480 établissements scolaires implantés dans 130 pays 300.000 élèves de toutes nationalités y sont scolarisés. et donner ainsi à ses enfants, la possibilité de poursuivre leur scolarité sans préjudice en cas de déménagement.

Le diplôme du baccalauréat, reconnu par les autorités polonaises permet l’accès à l’enseignement supérieur en Pologne mais aussi dans le monde entier. C’est aussi bien entendu, la porte d’entrée vers les filières d’excellence du système éducatif français. Les inscriptions pour la rentrée 2012 – 2013 sont ouvertes et les parents intéressés peuvent se rendre soit à l’école maternelle et élémentaire, située à Sadyba, ul Konstancinska 13, soit au collège et au lycée, situés à Saska Kepa, ul. Walecznych, 4/6 afin de découvrir les locaux et les équipements éducatifs et recevoir toutes les réponses à leurs interrogations. Le Lycée Français de Varsovie est payant (entre 17.000 et 27.000 zlotys à l'année). Une alternative couteuse au système polonais gratuit, mais raisonnable si on la compare aux autre offres internationales. A bientôt! Pour plus d'information : le site du Lycée Français: www.lfv.pl ou téléphone: 22 651 96 12

INFRONT

TAKE A BUILDING

BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Building Utopia

Intended to be a beauty, it transpired to be beast. The Insider takes a walk around Oskar Hansen's ambitious Grochowski housing project.

The estate was designed to encourage a feeling of safety and closeness, as well as to suit practical purposes: if one of the few elevators did break down, residents would still be able to walk from one gallery to the next. Today though, this once ideal living environment is now anything but. Noise and crime concerns led to both windows and galleries being sealed and barred, destroying the original aesthetic and social vision. Comprising of 1,800 flats, and housing some 7,000 people, it wasn’t long before Hanson’s bold blueprint was dubbed Beijing – an overcrowded settlement beset with troubles. Find it on ul. Ostrycka 2/4.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

aving used ‘open form’ approaches to build housing estates twice before (first in Rakowiec, then Lublin), Oskar Hansen landed another opportunity in 1963, this time at the beachhead in Grochowski, Warsaw. The task handed him was simple: the housing cooperative wanted a dozen apartment blocks, but minimal elevators – no doubt to save on costs. Inspired by the plight of his sick mother, who at the time was virtually stranded in her high-rise due to the erratic workings of the lifts, Hansen and his team set about designing a low-lying, inter-locking set of buildings: 1.5km long, and broken in 22 places.

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Reliable investment and prestigious comfort of living in the city.

s!! price r new Check ou ny ce e w no e sz dź na Sp ra w

Bezpieczna inwestycja i komfort życia w wielkim mieście.

Apartments Puławska 111 in Old Mokotów, Warsaw Apartamenty Puławska 111 dzielnica Stary Mokotów - Warszawa Cosy building located in well-known district of Warsaw – Old Mokotów. In the immediate neighbourhood, secluded Arkadia Park and Królikarnia Palace from XVIII century. Remarkable location allows you to take full advantage of the delights of the Park and infrastructure of a city centre. Kameralny budynek, zlokalizowany w prestiżowej, pełnej zieleni, dzielnicy Warszawy - Stary Mokotów. Sąsiadujący z parkiem Arkadia i XVIII-wiecznym Pałacem Królikarnia. Niepowtarzalna lokalizacja umożliwiająca korzystanie z uroków zielonego parku oraz pełnej infrastruktury centrum stolicy. Air-conditioned, higher standard apartments: height of 2.75m; the intelligent home system; widescreen wooden windows (mute 40 dB); beautiful finishing in the common spaces, lobby with a reception and a concierge services, round-the-clock security, underground parking. Top floor – Penthouses with outstanding view of Warsaw, extending from the huge terraces. Klimatyzowane Apartamenty o podwyższonym standardzie: wysokość od 2.75; instalacja inteligentnego budynku na poziomie lokalu, panoramiczne drewniane okna (wyciszenie 40 dB); pięknie wykończone części wspólne, reprezentacyjne lobby wraz z recepcją i usługami concierge, garaż podziemny, ograniczony dostęp do budynku, ochrona 24h. Ostatnie piętro - strefa Apartamentów typu Penthouse z pięknym widokiem na Warszawę, rozciągającym się z tarasów o powierzchni kilkudziesięciu metrów.

Sales Office +48 22 611 34 34

www.pulawska111.pl

INFRONT

MUM'S THE WORD

BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

“ Last year it was two

Zoolander

The sun is out, and so are the animals... And a giant Easter egg. This spring check Warsaw's Zoo for curious antics.

arsaw Zoo has been my family’s favorite stamping ground since our arrival five years ago. Each year I purchase our annual membership religiously, safe in the knowledge my money is going to a good home – and I have yet to be disappointed. Over those years my daughter and I have been witnesses to a gradual modernization; the hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the chimpanzees and gorillas have an impressive pavilion while the arrival of a shark means the zoo now has an ‘Aquarium’. The leopards have a new lair, and the male giraffe, Largo, still seems to be happily up to the challenge of blessing his mate with yearly offspring! All this, and our membership card still costs just zł. 100 for two. Spring is certainly our favored season to visit, and with the 40 hectares of land in bloom it’s not Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 A p r i l 2 0 1 2

just us humans that start to peel off the layers, but also around 500 different species who emerge from their winter habitats, shed winter coats and sniff the pollen-filled air. But what’s most exciting is meeting all the new arrivals. Last year it was two mischievous snow leopards that grabbed the limelight, this year all eyes are on three new tiger cubs born February 18th. If all goes well with mother and cubs then the public may get their first glimpse later this month. With all this modernization you think the cafes and restaurants would follow suit, but that’s not the case; at this zoo it seems the money really is going to the animals. I’d love to be cross and complain about the lack of an organic menu (though some might class the aroma that wafts up from the elephant pavilion as organic) but then I realize that with modern day café culture comes modern day gift shop culture and it is precisely the lack of gift shopping that gives Warsaw Zoo its charm. Its main shop, run by the Panda Foundation, is cleverly disguised inside the oldest house in the Zoo, the ‘Chata pod Strzechą’, which was built in 1928. Therefore, I remain silent and continue to pack a picnic which inevitably falls ‘accidentally’ into animal pens, whereby we end up queuing for pizza and chips next to the seductive play area – a good pit stop and meeting place, even if I do get suckered into the 5zl train ride. The lack of English translations remains a challenge for any parent trying to look reasonably intelligent in front of their children, but one area where we can all be top of the class is the Hala Wolnych Lotów (Hall of Free Flight). In the main aviary you can do a bit of exotic bird spotting with the help of a laminated picture card. I now know what a Wattled Jacana looks like and that the male rules the roost, incubating the eggs! My tip is to check out the Zoo’s translated website for events, take a peek at the Gorilla’s via the live-cam and honor Polish Easter tradition by taking your photo next to the biggest egg in Warsaw. It is one of many permanent artworks on show in the zoo grounds and should not be missed. Indeed, Warsaw Zoo can’t be accused of being short on surprises.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

mischievous snow leopards that grabbed the limelight, this year all eyes are on three new tiger cubs”

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INSIDER LOOK AT THE NATIONAL STADIUM

BUILD IT AND THEY WILL COME

Ever wondered what half a billion euros buys you in the current economic climate? In Warsaw’s case, it’s a glittering new stadium the country can be proud of. BY ALEX WEBBER

www.warsawinsider.pl

INSIDER LOOK AT THE NATIONAL STADIUM

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THEN… During the interwar years Makkabi Warszawa, Warsaw’s Jewish football team, played on the plot occupied by the new stadium. However, it was after the war the site achieved fame. Built atop of vast volumes of battle rubble, Stadion Dziesięciolecia opened in 1955 to coincide with the tenth anniversary of People’s Poland. The oval-shaped open arena was established as the national stadium, and gained notoriety when Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze to protest the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia. The last international match was played in 1983, the same year Pope John Paul II held Mass here for 100,000 people. However, it was after the fall of communism that the stadium entered folklore. No longer used for sporting events, it was rented out to Jarmark Europa, who swiftly turned the stadium and its environs into one of the great outdoor bazaars of Central Europe. And bizarre it certainly was. Dubbed ‘the Russian Market’ it became a center for piracy and vice, and allegedly the destination of choice should you have needed a gun. Or for that matter, a kitchen appliance that went BOOM when plugged in. AND NOW… Amid protests and furor the Russian Market was closed in 2008, with the cornerstone for the new stadium laid the following year. There began the construction saga, a protracted adventure of epic proportions. Yet, despite the missed deadlines and the growing band of naysayers, the arena has been completed, putting an end to the ‘will it, won’t it open’ debate. And yes, it’s certainly been worth the wait.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

etter late than never. Following months of setbacks, delays and budget overspend, the new national stadium opened its turnstiles on February 29th. Played precisely 100 days before the European Championships kick off, the inaugural match – a bore draw against Portugal – was one for the bin. Instead, cheers were reserved for the stadium, a magnificent pantheon that’s there with the best. How far, was my first reaction, has Polish football come. My last taste of international football came in 2004, a World Cup qualifier which pitted England against Poland deep down in Chorzów. Build up to the match involved a hazardous stroll through a pitch black park, while the game itself was spent dodging a steady hail of seats, coins, lighters and… trumpets. Poor sightlines meant that while I missed a Jermain Defoe wonder goal, I did have an unwelcome view of some morons from West Brom setting fire to a poster of Auschwitz. The full time whistle brought little relief. After the match, the 4,000 or so England fans were forced to leave single file through a long line of Robocop’s, before being squashed onto buses pointed at Katowice. In the absence of any immediate Polish opposition to exchange pleasantries with, this signaled time for the English fans to resume parochial rivalries. It was, in a nutshell, like living through Mad Max. Never before, or since, have I been so glad to reach Katowice. But fast forward eight years and it appears Polish football has crossed the Rubicon. With the new stadium comes a new match day experience, though to really appreciate the transformation one must look at what came before the sparkling Stadion Naradowy.

The last of all of the new stadiums to be delivered for Euro 2012, the end cost totted up to a cool zł. 1.75 billion: that’s two and half times more than any of the other three stadiums built in Poland, and not far below the €600 million whacked down by Portugal to build / renovate ten stadiums for Euro 2004. Even so, hopes are high the costs will be recouped, and early predictions claim it will be self-financing by 2013. Much of the revenue will be coming from the inevitable ring of corporate boxes, and you’ll find the hire cost of them set to zł. 550,000 for an 18 month lease. In all, 62 boxes have been included in the design, with average group game prices for Euro 2012 coming in at €1,700. You can, of course, spend much more, and that’s exactly what Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich has done. If press reports are to be believed, the oily oligarch has splashed out €1.2 million to net the presidential box for the Russia-Poland match – his special guest, the far from honorable Vladimir Putin. As for the stadium itself, one word will do: wow. That thick pile of euros has been clearly well spent; constructed using enough steel for 64 jumbo jets, this red and white amphitheater holds 58,000, and looks even better when lit up at night. Featuring a retractable PVC roof suspended from a central spire, the basket-shaped arena looks like it landed from space. Touting incredible views and stirring acoustics, it’s without a doubt an architectural triumph. And, admirably, amid the glitter and the bling an original element of the past has also been preserved: marking the spiritual gateway to the stadium, find a statue of three relay racers poised for glory – socialist realism meets the 23rd century.

stat box

58,000 11,000 965 112 39 34 15 3 1

SEATS SQ/M ROOF SPAN T OILETS (COMPARED TO THREE IN THE PREVIOUS STADIUM) METERS – THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE CENTRAL SPIRE LIFTS ESCALATORS MINUTES TO CLOSE / OPEN THE ROOF

PEOPLE KILLED DURING CONSTRUCTION CHAPEL

WITH UNDERGROUND -4 FLOORS, PARKING BELOW THE PITCH

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A SECRET SIDE OF WARSAW

Think you know everything about Warsaw? So did we. Until, that is, we took a tour with a difference. BY ALEX WEBBER

licking through a recent edition of Times Travel magazine I found myself drawn to an article covering city tours of lesser-known London. “All destinations,” wrote the peerless Peter Watts, “we see through the guidebook rather than an ardent local. An unusual tour can give you a snapshot of a city that your digital camera could only dream of.” Wise words Watts, but while such ‘tours with a twist’ have become increasingly common in the west, they remain in their infancy out here. I’ve been on scores of guided yomps around Warsaw, and all have been the same: brainless waffle from charmless robots. So, I admit, it was with a sense of déjà vu I joined Marcin Grabowski from Warsaw Behind the Scenes. I needn’t have worried. Where I had expected another typi-

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cal tour guide – an earnest teacher type dressed in gear hinting at a hiking habit – I find Marcin dressed in a smart flat cap and dashing red scarf: more like a WWI fighter ace than anything else. Next to him, a spotless relic from the communist years: his 30 year old FSO 125pp. This would be our vehicle for the day, with Stop 1 on the safari being Pl. Grzybowski. Having ascertained my level of knowledge (everything), Marcin sets about the impossible task of impressing this know-it-all. “Here we go again,” I think, as he begins his lecture on the Palace of Culture, “nothing I’ve never heard before.” But I’m wrong. Within minutes the factoids and trivia are flying. “All the guidebooks call this Stalin’s wedding cake etc,” reels Marcin, “but you know what, a lot of Poles named it Uncle Stalin’s, ummm, dick.” Never knew that. “Most seem to think the building was forced onto us, but that’s not really the case,” he continues. “After the war, the Russians let us choose our present from them: either a nice underground, or a big tower. Well, we thought we’d take care of the underground bit ourselves, so we actually asked for that.” After years of listening and reading the same tripe, I find myself on a steep learning curve with my pen working harder than it’s ever done before. He talks about the church in front, Warsaw’s biggest at the time, and how the Soviets tried to hide it from public view by surrounding it with housing blocks. Then, walking down ul. Próżna, he

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BEHIND THE SCENES WARSAW

“ After years of reading the same tripe, I find myself on a steep learning curve with my pen working harder than it’s ever done before”

Opposte page, "You would never guess what the commies wanted to do here". This page from top, Lunch!, Pride of Poland: FSO 125 pp.

reaches for his secret weapon: a broken-spined album bulging with old photos and maps. Pulling out an architect’s sketch, we learn that original post-war plans involved bulldozing the (many) buildings that survived in this area, leaving only the PASTa Tower remaining. That was intended to serve as the town hall, with the rest of the area reshaped as a socialist realist square. We head back to the car, where upon I realize it’s an object of both affection and fascination – an old dude is stroking it like a pet puppy when we return, and he engages Marcin in conversation as he reminisces about his own former model. Grinding through morning traffic, we head to the next port of call: Pijalnia, a modern bar styled like a classic PRL pub. It’s not even 11 a.m. but Marcin seems to think that a shot of vodka for myself and the photographer are crucial to the tour. I’m starting to take a shine to his methods. It’s over drinks and pickles we chat, sharing Warsaw anecdotes and personal stories. “My granddad was lucky,” says Marcin, “he was coming in from the countryside to join the Warsaw Uprising, but was delayed and missed the start by 20 minutes. By the time he got to the city, the Germans had sealed it off.” I ponder this as I debone a herring. “That’s great food with vodka,” starts Marcin, “but there’s other reasons you’ll find these starters in the traditional bars. During the PRL the government waged war

on alcoholism, and bars were only allowed to serve shots if people bought an appetizer – it was absurd, walk into a bar and you’d literally have seen piles of food that had been left by the drinkers.” Back in the Bat Mobile, and Marcin flips on some commie sounds. “This one’s great,” he says of a particularly cheery number, “it’s all about how happy the guy is to be setting off to his factory at 4 a.m.” The car spluffs to a halt on Mokotowska, and we’re back on patrol on the streets of Warsaw. Again, his knackered old album is priceless as he explains post-war plans to tear down the area by pl. Trzech Krzyży to allow unimpeded views of the Wisła from the government district. We wind through a warren of courtyards and back alleys that I never knew existed, the surviving pre-war touches highlighted: a wooden warehouse crane, a lamppost from Tsarist Russian times. We learn the backyard chapels so prevalent in these tenements served several purposes: not just to provide a safe place of wartime worship, but also to assure the Nazis the buildings weren’t worth raiding during their ‘Jew hunts’. “I’ve even met one woman,” adds Marcin, “who claims the courtyard Madonna saved her tenement from bombing.” Deeper downtown, in Wola, we enter a classic confectionary, one of the few places that follows the tradition of parceling donuts into string-tied paper bags. The matronly, medusa-haired babcias take an instant dislike to the photographer’s camera, and we eat our pączki on the car bonnet. We’re still hungry, and it’s on Marcin’s prompting we head to a surviving bar mleczny in Żoliborz. Passing St. Augustine’s Church on Nowolipki we’re told you can still see the scrapes on the floor from when the Germans used it as a stable. The story sharing is infectious. All of a sudden the photographer pipes up: “One of the guys in my wife’s family was in the Uprising,” he relates. “They captured a tank and needed something to align their aim. The church was the only thing that remained here, so they used its spire for target practice – you can still see the dent.” Our destination is Bar Sady, a place of chrome and steel and noxious smells. Time has stood still here, and as we slurp our barszc we reflect the day. Our photographer is clearly on a roll: “You know what,” he muses, “today I forgot that I lived here.” So did I. To book a custom-tour of Warsaw with the marvelous Marcin, give him a bell on: 605 278 289 (www.warsawscenes.com). www.warsawinsider.pl

TRAVEL: CIECHANÓW

THE HOME OF BEER

olish beer hasn’t always had the best press, least not from me. I liken much of it (well, the big brands) to poison; the kind that kills you before you get drunk. But that’s no longer the rule, and there’s enough secondary breweries to keep me in Polska. Breweries like Ciechan. And it was while pondering one of their bottles I had an idea. “Well that’s a nice castle on the label,” I mused, “could be a smashing place to visit…”

14:00

We’re booked into the Hotel Baron (hotel-baron. pl), which in spite of the noble name is anything but. “Do you reckon they’ve got wifi?” I ask as we pull in. “Wifi!” snorts my driver, Drax, “It’s practically the only hotel in town, we’ll be lucky if the toilet flushes.” In fairness, it isn’t the dud he’d forecast. While pretty basic, the Baron is clean, comfortable and certainly not offensive, and with prices touching zł. 140 for a single it’s unquestionably a deal. And yes, they do have wifi.

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They also have a location that’s practically on the doorstep of the brewery. I make this discovery on opening the window. When the wind turns the rich scent of hops wafts across town, its distinguished aroma filling the air. Buoyed by these heady, pungent smells, we set off to pinpoint the source of them.

14:30

Now I’ve visited breweries before: Heineken in Amsterdam and Guinness in Dublin, then of course there’s the microbreweries around Poland like Bierhalle etc. All are spotless, with gleaming tanks, shiny brass and immaculate staff who would pass a parade. So landing on the doorstep of Browar Ciechan is a bit of a surprise. Like turning up to a Spanish resort to find that instead of a luxury condo complex you’ve actually been sold an abandoned construction site with a dead donkey by the gate. Browar Ciechan is not what I envisioned. Brewing since 1864, it looks dog-eared and shabby – but reassuringly

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, ALL OTHERS CHRISTIAN SWINDELLS

Regional beers have become big news and leading the pack is the stuff from Ciechanów. As an excuse for a travel piece that tops the lot. BY ALEX WEBBER

From left, Ciechanów Castle, not the only famous thing in town, bottled up, final results roll off the assembly line at Browar Ciechan.

so. Having this fine beer brewed in an anonymous plant just wouldn’t be right. Our whistle stop tour (book in advance so they can rustle up an English-speaker, www. ciechan.com.pl) takes us wading through barley, and past topless calendars, clattering down stairwells and ducking low ceilings. Deep underground, we’re escorted to the fermentation rooms, dark, slippery cellars filled with dials and pipes, before making it back to the rattle and din of the bottling room. It’s an amazing experience, made all the better when Kamil, our guide, cracks open beers fresh from the assembly line. It’s been a hard day and we deserve them.

22:00

Clubbing, Ciechanów-style. The brewery doesn’t only own a pub, but also a club. Seating in this subterranean lair comes in the form of hollowed out beer tanks, and I learn that during the war this is where SS officers would carouse. That’s not the only discovery I make. Doda, the pin-up songstress, is from round these parts, and for a fleeting moment I eyeball her twin. All is well again.

Saturday 10:00

Open Sesame! The on-site brewery pub opens for trade, and the real work begins. At some stage during the evening, I’m advised that this is the only decent place to eat. I know better though.

My head feels like I’ve just lost a game of Russian Roulette. Clearly, today’s plan consists of survival. Drax has other ideas though, and we check out of the hotel for a quick bout of sightseeing. The previous night I’d resisted his suggestions to fire up the laptop and research the town. “No need,” I’d declared, “all we’ve got to do is hit tourist info and pick up their bumph.” As brainwaves go, it was there with my best. This was going to go like clockwork...

20:00

10:30 … A broken clock. Finding Tourist Information

16:00

Dining options are limited in Ciechanów, but galvanized by the local lager I opt to check out Tesali Grill Restaurant (Rynek 11). Even in my pickled state, I know a dangerous meal when I see one: think Sphinx, then think even worse.

(ul. Warszawska 34) isn’t hard, finding them open is. For reasons I can’t fathom they’re closed at weekends (I mean, what kind of idiot goes sightseeing on Saturday?), an unexpected factor that sees my master plan unravel. www.warsawinsider.pl

TRAVEL: CIECHANÓW

“ My head feels like I’ve just

lost a game of Russian Roulette. Clearly, today’s plan consists of survival”

Later annexed by the Polish royal family, the castle served as HQ for Queen Bona for ten years, while in 1647 Marie Louise Gonzago, wife of Władysław IV, popped in for some R&R. She didn’t hang around long enough to see dawn; spooked by the ghosts, she made a sharp exit. Alas, you’ll probably see even less of the zamek than her. Bombshell II comes with the realization the castle is closed – and not just for Saturday, but the next few months. Smashed in the Swedish Deluge, then battered during the 1920 Polish-Bolshevik war, the castle is at long last undergoing work to restore it. That wasn’t stopping me though. Using skills acquired from my secretive past, I found a way in – someone had left the gate open. Standing alone in a medieval courtyard surrounded by muddy machinery is weird. Weirder still, I note that renovation plans include the addition of a glass extension – the future home of the local museum. It’s eerily quiet as I wonder amid cement mixers and drills, the only sound coming from a shrieking crow. I’m moved to remember something I’d read a few months back. During WWII, the Nazis held ‘selections’ here on the local population. From top, Ciechan Brewery, where it all begins, next stage, fermentation!

Fortunately, Ciechanów’s size acts in its favor. A town of little under 50,000, it’s not hard to locate the few sights and sounds.

11:00

Take the castle for instance. That’s just down the road from the brewery, and is our next port of call. Believed to have been built in the 15th Century, its red brick form is haunted by the executed wife of a former duke. Certain she was lavishing his pricey gifts on a courtier, the duke sentenced her to die. It was only after she lost her head the stash of missing jewels was found in a nest, apparently swiped by a naughty little magpie. Racked with guilt, the duke leapt to his death from one of the towers that stand on each corner.

GETTING TO CIECHANÓW COULDN’T BE ANY EASIER. LYING 100 KM NORTH OF WARSAW, IT’S A STRAIGHT FORWARD JOURNEY THAT’S DONE IN APPROX. 105 MINS. FOLLOW ROUTE 61 AND YOU’LL BE THERE IN A BREEZE.

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12:00 The Ciechan Pub doesn’t open till 4 p.m. The

culinary calamity of last night is still tumbling around my guts, so it’s a no brainer when Drax presents me with a choice. “We can visit MacJack’s Kebab & Pizza over there, or put the pedal to the metal and head back to Warsaw.”

12:10

We’re not the only ones suffering from yesterday. A classic GPS malfunction leads us deep into a 70s housing estate centered round a park. Spotting a monument we stop, squelching our way across to discover the lonely memorial marks what was once the New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Pułtuska). Like the other two Jewish cemeteries, and the synagogue, it was razed by the Germans, and is now a solitary reminder of a murdered Jewish community which once formed a third of the populace. The windswept scene feels a poignant conclusion to a strange, backwater town. Unexplored and underrated, it’s a weird weekend that shouldn’t be missed.

Warsaw Chopin Airport Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79

• Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • For reservations call: +48 22 572 6565 • Friendly staff who willingly speak English

Le Cedre

Lebanese cuisine

since 1997

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WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

The Classic Chianti

San Giusto a Rentennano has been the biggest star of the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany for the last few years – now it’s available in Warsaw. maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

he Chianti Classico region is stretched between Florence and Sienna. The vineyards of San Giusto and Rentennano are located on the southern border of the region, over a dozen kilometers away from north-eastern Siena, in the warmest part of the region. A mountainous location, a varied earth (from volcanic soils to limestone clay and sand), along with a large diurnal temperature and fantastic micro-climate provide top quality wines. The estate began life as a medieval monastery of Cistercian nuns and was called San Giusto alle Monache. The medieval estate of San Giusto and Rentennano came into the Martini di Cigala family through marriage in 1914. Today Rentennano San Giusto is family-owned with the estate managed by Elisabetta, Francesco and Luca Martini di Cigala. Tuscan wines from the San Giusto a Rentennano estate have been most appreciated by the world’s wine critics. Super Tuscan Percarlo (pure sangiovese) and La Ricolma (pure merlot) regularly receive 94-97 points from Robert Parker and as many points as the world-class wines. Therefore, the San Giusto a Rentennano wines are very hard to get. Even wine importers need to sign up on the list, without really knowing how big their allotment of wines will be that year. But the wines of San Giusto a Rentennano can be bought in Poland at very good prices - comparable to the prices in Italy.

The importer of these wines is the Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw E-mail: enoteka@enotekapolska.pl

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Chianti Classico 2009 (top Chianti priced zł 69)

Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baroncole 2008 (Chianti Riserva better than most of the Brunellos and priced at only zł 109.50)

Percarlo 2007 (95+ at Robert Parker for zł 189)

Reviews: la Tomatina 35 / China Garden 42 / Top Fish 56 / Plus:

* 13 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 35 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 35 / ASIAN 36 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 38 / BRITISH 39 / FRENCH 39 / FOOD SHOPS 56 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 39 / HOME DELIVERY 46 / INDIAN 40 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 41 / ITALIAN 46 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 48 / LATIN 50 / POLISH 51 / SEAFOOD 55

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55

KEY Map location.................. (A1) Business meetings.........

Romantic.......................... Child friendly................... Insider writers do Vegetarian friendly.......... not accept any Delivery............................ form of payment in Breakfast menu .............. return for favorable Free wifi....................... reviews BOW 2011 Winner............. $$$ over zł. 55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

La Tomatina ul. Krucza 47, tel. 22 625 1047, www.latomatina.pl. Open 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

shouldn’t have enjoyed my visit to La Tomatina because by almost all normal standards by which you judge a restaurant it was a complete and utter disaster. But I can’t help it, I had a great time. That could be down to one of two reasons. Firstly, I went on my own, and eating alone (so long as you have a trusty newspaper to hide behind) is a great way to really get to know a place and the people who work there. Secondly, there was the waiter – Poland’s answer to Manuel (he of Fawlty Towers fame) and a man who definitely was not born for this profession. I guess some people are good at being waiters and some people are not. The waiter at La Tomatina is spectacularly bad, and watching his blunders and clangers was inspirational stuff. The thing is, he’s a trier, and as my grandma always said to me, “as long as you do your best then that’s enough.” And there’s no question that he was doing his best, he just hasn’t got it in him. For starters the waiter (who appeared to take the ‘wait’ part of his job title very seriously) took half an hour to bring me a drink, and when he eventually did he still got it wrong. Then when he brought my food, spicy Tiger prawns with spaghetti, he put it at the opposite end of the table instead of in front of me – this despite me being the only person sitting there. Who was he expecting to join me, Henry Kissinger? In his defence, having one chef and one waiter to serve in a restaurant with about 40 customers is complete madness, so I can’t blame him entirely. Plus, the food tasted really good. Now this place has had dire write-ups in the Polish press, but I’ve got to say it was just fine for me – even if it did look like some pseudo-Italian dish I’d have rustled up back in my student days. Match this with a burgeoning rep for pizzas, and you have a venue that’s not a total disaster. So, despite all the negatives there’s definitely something about this place which makes me think that somehow it’s going to survive. I just hope the waiter does too. (DI)

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally

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RESTAURANTS catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$

Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster

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sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties. Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss

violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined.

Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all

sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner

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RESTAURANTS Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian

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culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious.

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Summer’s gone, and with it one of the best gardens around. Instead, enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $

Restauracja Bałkany ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 600 031 847. Open 10:00-22:00. Chef Borys used to do the cook-

ing at the intricate Tawerna Tabak, and while this place looks like a step down the cooking hasn’t suffered: order the kofta. Décor is stark, dark and simple, but the welcome – like the cooking – is enthusiastic. $

Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www. larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains underrepresented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside. Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www. fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www. lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$

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RESTAURANTS Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $ Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Paros ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$

Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. A fantastic place for a lively group dinner. $$

INDIAN Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:3022:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese. $$ Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Ganesh Express ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express? More like Total Ga- -sh Express. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www. indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266,

Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27,

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tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. With the revamp complete and the builders gone, diners can now concentrate on good Indian standards in a cosmopolitan interior. Some claim it’s emerging as one of the top curries in town, a once optimistic opinion that’s fast gathering pace. $

Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here

Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food

(and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$

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RESTAURANTS *

Bistro Warszawa ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

ull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for very courageous luncheonettes. Such fare, although most reasonably priced on the menu, is perhaps best sampled in the evening with hardy friends and copious amounts of alcohol to shore up any apprehensions. As we were dining in a markedly different atmosphere, The Luncheonettes opted for the extremely reasonably priced lunch menu (zł. 21) which included soup of the day, rice, a choice from eight main courses and two of several salads. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. Jiangsu is one of eight major regional Chinese culinary traditions. While Westerners are probably more familiar with Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan kitchens, food from Jiangsu province, which includes the cities of Yangzhou and Nanjing and the basin of the Yangtze River, seems to resonate as a more nationally represented flavor. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straight-backed chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! A loud water fountain in the raised back half of the restaurant seemed too clamorous at first blush, but turned out to be a godsend that artificially diluted the chatter from nearby tables. We nibbled on delicate and delicious Munn mushroom salad (also known as Silver Ear Tremella mushrooms) and very mild (pass some pepper, please) beef with bamboo soup. Our choice of mains were on the ‘ordinary’ side of the menu – fried pork with bamboo and carrots, beef with broccoli and garlic, etc., etc. While tasty, all mains were cool, as if a cauldron of food for the very popular (judging by the crowd) lunch was made in advance and someone forgot to keep the stove on. The meal was suffering from buffet-itis, which is sometimes forgivable when there is a table of variety available (not the case here). Desert consisted of a crunchy corn pancake – whole corn kernels and bits of carrot dipped in sweet batter. It gave a new meaning to healthy eating. But despite the lukewarm food, we walked out with a resolve to return. Next time, damn the inviting cheap chow, we’re going for the Bull’s Penis. It’s certain to be hot.

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Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. They’re closing in on their first birthday, but this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Served on wood boards, the steak are beyond reproach, served up by staff in butchers aprons. Drawing celebs and execs, the food is beyond reproach, as proved by their predictable triumph at Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant awards. Bookings are essential. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ZBIGNIEW WICHŁACZ

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small ice skating rink in the park that it views. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$

Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $

Kaprys ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers. The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy

cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and handpainted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily

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RESTAURANTS 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch in a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a ‘gentleman’s club’ with a seriously upmarket VIP dining area. Dishes include red tuna steak (zł. 199), Kobe beef (zł. 999), and French lobster (zł. 299). $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the

Street Food Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. A game changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw – i.e. those of us who rush to the pub on Friday without eating. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers (inc. Philly cheese steak!), and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS.

summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 tion to follow. $$ “Kid Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

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Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner Quick Steak (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 530 969 999, www.quicksteak.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0024:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. So it’s not Butchery & Wine, but this place really isn’t too bad. Even so, you’ve got to question the wisdom of anyone who opens a burger and steak joint next to Hard Rock. Going in the ring with the undisputed champion of Americana is pretty audacious, not to say foolish. There’s only one winner there, and it’s not these bods. R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00; 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun

18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of

board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation

called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24Hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0024:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:00-

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23:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330.

www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00-last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$

Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $

Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. $

& Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $

Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$

Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $

Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs

Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-

We invite you to the unique restaurant at Foksal, Our speciality is fusion cuisine. Foksal 18, Warsaw. Tel: + 48 22 828 09 32 | info@theatro1811.com www.theatro1811.com | facebook.com/theatrofusionrestaurant 10% discount with this ad. Promotions can not be linked with any other promotions

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RESTAURANTS 23:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$ Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine

bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www. rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors,

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the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$

Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$

Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$

Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$

Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo. pl.Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:3020:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$

Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate

ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Maguro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www.magurosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1)

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RESTAURANTS ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistentlyinconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open

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Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www. mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further. The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$

in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 23 24 Open: Mon-Thu 9am-8pm, Fri 9am-9pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 11:30am-4:30pm

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad

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RESTAURANTS guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat

12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare BEST bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors.

Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.”

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $

Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$

Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka. pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$

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Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$

Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx.. fifty type delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids.

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$

SEAFOOD

Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate

restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection. Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www. biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul. Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England foot-

Stolikarnia.pl – relax, your reservation has been made Can you imagine entering your favorite restaurant without any obstacles, taking a table and ordering an excellent dish before enjoying it in peace? Does that sound unrealistic? No! It’s all possible thanks to a new website: Stolikarnia.pl The website has been created to respond to the needs of people who value their time and know how to spend it. Stolikarnia.pl allows for free and fast bookings in a variety of restuarants without the hassle of formalities and phone calls. All you need to do is choose the appropriate restauraurant, specify the date and number of seats, then add the reservation. Stolikarnia.pl also presents news about interesting culinary events and happenings, as well as gastronomic tips or curiosities.

So, if you plan on visiting a restaurant, or just want to discover the secrets of the kitchen, you are welcomed to join us by visiting: Stolikarnia.pl

Your Table Awaits!

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RESTAURANTS ball paraphernalia etc.

as well as the number one source for lamb.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:00-20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:3016:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town,

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. BEST WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 1307, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

TOP SHOP Top Fish ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 556 8560, www.topfish.pl. hough the glut of sushi restaurants suggest otherwise, Warsaw is far from a fish friendly zone –the annual Christmas carp-fest aside, the fish section of your local supermarket is liable to be low on custom and free of choice. So how’s about this then, a quality fishmonger bang on Nowy Świat. From the moment you enter, customers find themselves confronted with a rich choice of fish (and associated smells), with the dead-eyed monsters staring emptily from behind the plate glass. And aside from the usual tired choice, expect prize catches like red mullet, tiger shrimps and fresh mussels. Can’t wait to get home? Then take a seat and order from the menu – it’s unlikely you’ll be disappointed.

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TOP FISH

Reviews: Pardon, To Tu 57 / Plus:

* 4 updates

CAFES & WINE BARS CAFES 57 / WINE BARS 60

Insider’s Pick

CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries. Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Pardon, To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, www.pardontotu.pl. Open 10:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PARDON, TO TU

ith the future of Chłodna 25 uncertain (see page 12), I’m already casting the net out to find its replacement – you know, a place where you’re equally comfortable with a laptop or book as you are with a good team of friends. Warsaw’s been increasingly blessed with such haunts, but none stand out quite like Pardon, To Tu. And you know what, whether CXXV falls through the trapdoor or not, I’m tipping PTT to inherit the earth. Found snuck to the side of the Jewish Theater, Pardon announces itself with a sign declaring ‘vino, vinyl, vintage’. And that’s exactly what you get. Doubling as a cult record store, find dozens of obscure albums layering the walls, as well as nights dedicated to showcasing such enigmatic talents. An interesting music policy aside, there’s plenty more that gains my approval. Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tilted lampshades, a relaxed art house look complimented with a few flea market pickings. Soaking in these mellow waters, find creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers, their ages ranging from 18 to 80. And that’s what makes this place: it’s hip and happening but accessible to all – unlike Chłodna 25, a daft wardrobe and a stupid haircut aren’t required to feel at home. Of course, neither is their cause muzzled by fantastic focaccia and a good line of beers. As the clock ticks to dusk it morphs effortlessly from café into bar, with a well-stocked fridge encouraging this shift: Lithuanian, Czech and regional Polish lagers are on offer, and they’re best enjoyed while petting the dog that shuffles and snuffles around his domain. Back in the day pl. Grzybowski was something of a ghost zone. Today though, the area is back on the map, with the thud and clang of industrial machinery suggesting that anytime soon it’s going to be smoking hot real estate. That a place of Pardon’s caliber should open in the middle of it all is evidence of this renaissance. It’s not good, it’s way better than that, and an absolute asset to this part of town. (AW)

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the BEST WAWA choice haunt for the in-team. 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www.colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:0023:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc.

www.warsawinsider.pl

CAFÉS & WINE BARS Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13,

tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty. Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart. Order at the street side hatch for a take-away lunch. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with

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the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777. Art is a big part here: find rotating exhibits on the walls, and crayons on the tables – find the amusing results on the post-it notes stuck by the door. White and bright, the day’s offer is chalked onto the blackboard. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad. Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00. Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffeecolored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open MonFri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods.

Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks. pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:30-21:30; Fri-Sat 7:3023:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132.

Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs

The Real Taste of Coffee! Prawdziwy smak kawy!

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries.

www.moccamaster.pl Best selling coffee machine in Scandinavia.

www.warsawinsider.pl

CAFÉS & WINE BARS 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes.

Sto 900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers. Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

WINE BARS C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great,

simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London. “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:0017:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laidback atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

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La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine.

La Vinuela ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 258 0017. Open 11:00-22:00. A pleasant Wilanów wine bar, whose stark look is balanced out by a short, concise menu that compliments the comprehensive choice of European and New World wines. Definitely recommended is the salmon served with raspberry sauce and Dijon mustard.

Les Secrets de Vin ul. Wałęcznych 68, tel. 780 578 571, www.secretsduvin.pl. Open Sun, Tues-Thurs 11:00-20:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. The menu comprises of tapas snacks, and they also run wine tasting classes and Mediterranean language courses. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

Reviews: Cafe Colombia 61 / Małe Piwo 64 / Plus:

* 18 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 61 / JAZZ CLUBS 68 / CLUBS 67 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 68

Insider’s Pick

BARS & PUBS Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00. Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives.

Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy (D4) ul. Bracka 9 (ground floor Vitkac Department Store). Open 12:00-last guest. Stone walls and metallic seats lend an austere aesthetic to this champagne bar, but that’s recompensed by seriously competitive prices: champers starts at zł. 29 per glass. Found in Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s a logical conclusion to your spending spree.

Colombia ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www.colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF COLOMBIA

ately, it seems, not an issue passes without the Insider sniffing out a new place on Krucza. And while Colombia isn’t exactly new, it is certainly notable. Now to be clear from the off, I really didn’t want to like it. For starters, the design just doesn’t appeal to me: too bright, too airy. I like my cocktail bars to look like Chicago speakeasies: covert, smoky drinking dens accessed through a guarded gate. Colombia, on the other hand, is all about vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces. Add to that a glass counter laid out with cakes and you get the impression that it’s a café first and a bar somewhere last. That theory is verified by the daytime custom, lots of suits picking and pecking at salads and smoothies. I was there for a different reason though, namely to road test some cocktails I’ve heard great things about. I had my suspicions however, and they weren’t eased by the arrival of the menu. I was delighted to note they serve pitchers of Pimm’s, less delighted to see they’d got the ingredients wrong: Pimm’s should be fixed with lemonade, not fizzy water. With my hopes set to low I followed the waiter’s advice: Chili Manhattan Cream. It was divine, with an exotic rainforest look that I just love with my cocktails. Next up was the Che Guevera Dried Fig Collins. Again, sensational. But neither of those drinks could match the Espressotini. This was a drink to die for, and after ordering eight I very nearly did. Put simply, I haven’t enjoyed drinking this much for months. And the more I drank, the more my initial misgivings about the aesthetics gave way. It’s doesn’t look or feel like your typical Warsaw cocktail bar – no pot-bellied ex-pats trying to bribe or manipulate fake boobed blondes, and no braying big shots bragging about their balance. That’s not a bad thing. And neither is their beer list. In the unlikely event the cocktails don’t pass your standard, the beer menu should. On the roster are brews from Britain, Belgium, Germany etc. My nod though, that goes to their Lithuania stuff: give the Utenos a try. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647. Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider. Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and

art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Slated to launch at the start of the month, this Brit pub comes to you courtesy of Richard Winkler. And with Paparazzi, Porto Praga and Nowa Kuźnia on his school report, we’re expecting big things. Located in what was formerly the London Steakhouse, we’re promised the definitive ex-pat experience. Full lowdown next issue. Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible. Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder. Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. This Warsaw legend has a battered look and an artsy legacy; the sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the patio to tonk back the Ciechan – and that’s got the neighbors up in arms. With their license up for renewal on April 22, the future of C25 hangs in the balance.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style

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awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Czytadło (C1) ul. Freta 20/24. Open 11:00-last guest. The chilly service borders hostile, and you may find the majority of their beers out of stock. Outback, past the book lined front room, the smoking room alleviates the gloom.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming, a beautiful champagne bar on Warsaw’s version of Regent St. The guys look like Bond villains, and the gals just like Bond babes, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. Prices for a glass of Moet or Brut start at a reasonable zł. 49 (zł. 270 for the bottle). Order oysters and let the night take its course. Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest. Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s

negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters. Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest.For years Bradley’s has been known not just as a firm ex-pat bulwark, but for Poland’s best Guinness. Will Mr Bradley’s shock March departure change that? We’re back with our verdict next month. Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Klubo Kawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia. net. Waiting to open as we went to press, KKT could well be the bar that brings urban cool to upmarket Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion is set to bring hipster culture to the area with a slew of concerts, screenings and happenings lined up. Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already

attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838. Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone? Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu

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NIGHTLIFE 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English. Meta na Mazowieckiej ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00. Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back.

Molly Malone’s ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia,

benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00. A student heavy, leftist leaning cafe where laptops and portfolios are must have accessories. Rumors are though, they’re about to enter a battle with the city to secure their future. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on

floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside. Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 18:00-1:00, Fri 18:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The

Małe Piwo ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

ry as I might, I just can’t get my head round what’s become of South Central Warsaw. When I first came to town pl. Zbawiciela was home to a war wreck, a Burger King and a shop selling cabbage – but zoom forward a decade and it’s SoHo in miniature. To some, Plac Zed. has become the center of the universe, and come Thursday night you’ll find much of the city spinning around it. Now maxed out with bars and cafes, it’s down to the side streets to cater to the overspill: streets like Oleandrów. It’s on Oleandrów you’ll find Małe Piwo, a petite little treasure

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with all the trappings of a legendary bar – namely, a fridge packed tight with scores of beers from all corners of Poland. No Żywiec or Pys-kie here, instead find lagers and ales (a chocolate stout, even) sourced from cult breweries like Cornelius, Rycerz and the inevitable Ciechan. There’s sixty plus to pick from, and they go down a treat with the regional cheeses scattered on the bar. Unsurprisingly, Małe Piwo has caught on fast. Co-owner Agata served as former editor of style mag Aktivist, and her black book of contacts has clearly come good. This place is packed most nights – granted, not hard given its diminutive size – and it’s frequently shoulder-to-shoulder with middle-aged hipsters. I’m not too fond of this breed (I expect my niece to wear a Teletubby t-shirt, not a grown man with a well-tended beard), but they become easy to block out after Beer No. 5. And yes, it is worth the inevitable battle at the bar. Similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and that after dark buzz that all the greats have. Looking bare bones and fashionably distressed, the design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices. It doesn’t need anything else to work. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

“ Similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and that after dark buzz that all the greats have”

cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries. Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by acrew of pros who know their trade inside out.Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22

825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

NEW GENTLEMAN’S CLUB IN WARSAW!

Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” cocktails. Winner Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry,

Kredytowa 9, Warszawa 00-056 Open 21:00 - 5:00 22 828 23 07 www.libidoklub.pl info@libidoklub.pl

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ON THE PROWL

AN AMERICAN WOLFMAN IN WARSAW

Two college buddies meet for a night on the town. What happens next? BY THE MAYOR

FLAMING & CO.

I picked him up at the InterConti (the view was awesome), and we headed over to Flaming for some dinner. He couldn’t decide what to eat (everything looked awesome), so we went with a Porto Cervo pizza and a burger with a side of double cooked fries. Everything about this place is “mega” from the service to the décor. It only gets better as the weather gets warmer with the best outdoor deck in Warsaw.

CHAMPAGNE BAR

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UL. MAZOWIECKA

After a bottle of Dom Pérignon and some oysters for the ladies, we decided to hit up Warsaw’s premiere party street. After making the rounds to Paparazzi and Bank Club, we headed over to an awaiting VIP table in Enklawa. Wolf declared that The Shark was the hottest damsel he’d ever seen in his life: “if Megan Fox, Gisele and Angeline Jolie had a three-way, she would be the resulting love-child.” Awesome analogy – in a freshman dorm-room conversation sort of way. Enklawa is still one of my favorite clubs in the city: top DJs, busloads of beautiful people and reasonable drink prices make sure a night here rarely disappoints. At about 4am, I informed Wolf of another surprise. The girls were also staying at the InterContinental, so we invited them back to his suite for the after party. And as my young friend Flint says, “in case you didn’t know, that’s pretty dang sweet!”

PHOTOGRAPH BY MACIEJ PEŁKA

met Wolfman at the airport. This was his first visit to Poland. College fraternity brothers have a strong bond; even after not seeing each other for 10 years, you can pick-up right where you left off like nothing has changed. For me, nothing has changed! Warsaw is a bit like my very own fountainof-youth; it’s a far cry from the streets of Philadelphia. It bought a smile to my face to see Wolf wearing the “Top 10 reasons to visit Poland T-Shirt” that I gave him last time we met. It goes like this . . . 1. Agnieszka 2. Kamila 3. Monika . . . You get the drift. I thought up that design with my buddy K-Bo sitting in the old town as we watched one smoking hot girl walk by after another. We still do this today. Like I said, I haven’t changed much. Wolf was over here for a two week consulting assignment in the tech industry, and wanted me to show him the “Most Awesome Warsaw Experience.” With Wolf, there is no middle ground; something is either Awesome or it’s Crap!

We walked across the street to the newly opened Champagne Bar, which is also run by the Flaming group. I had a surprise in store for him – by arranging two of my Playmate centerfold friends to meet us there for champagne. When I saw Wolf’s eyes pop out like Muppet ping pong balls, I knew the bunnies had arrived. I introduced Wolf to Miss January and June, but since they loved Wolf’s moniker, we decided that everybody needed animal nicknames. We dubbed them The Lion and The Shark based on Jan’s tattoo and June’s love for the ocean. Chicks dig nicknames! I went with The Dragon. We now had our very own wolf pack!

room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Created by the same chaps behind the cult Warszaswa Powisle, SS is everything that the former isn’t. Set inside a 70s concrete monster this retro affair guns for a more seasoned, affluent crowd with an over 21 door policy and 80 types of whisky that range from the Welsh Penderyn and the Japanese Hibiki. Expect the bank balance to take a mauling: fifty złoty for a Lynchburg lemonade warrants a public enquiry. Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people. Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs

instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events. 18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room. Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice. Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa),

Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666,

www.warsawinsider.pl

NIGHTLIFE www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:006:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

JAZZ CLUBS Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the mu-

sic biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and a just-about-larger room outback. Stage action is tame, and doesn’t get all that much better behind the curtain.

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub. pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta Gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. Run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka.

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com.pl.

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Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians, as well as an atmosphere that’s way more chilled than the whooping, meat market style of other venues.

Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Sofia ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl. A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.sogoclub.pl. The neon lit exterior would dazzle from space. Inside, find a vast strip club that opens up over a couple of floors. Dancers are in plentiful supply, with several resembling fallen angels. The bouncers are less approachable and don’t tolerate monkey business – tread carefully.

Reviews: Bizuu 69

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 71 / FASHION 69 / HOME DECOR 72 / SHOPPING MALLS 72

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BIZUU

very few months or so, a new shop pops up and Bizuu is my absolute favourite so far. It’s not as intense about hi-fashion like the shops up the block, in fact, you won’t find any international designers here – but what you will find is an absolutely gorgeous collection from two really talented Polish designers. It’s one of those Cinderella style stories: two pals Blanka Jordan and Zuzanna Wachowiak were 9-5 working dames, until they realized that their fashion hobby could actually be profitable. Exactly one year ago they opened their first boutique in their native city of Poznań. Last September, they opened their Warsaw flagship, and today I think I’m in love. Yes, it took me six months to make it here because winter kept me tucked into cashmeres at home, but now that spring is back, I felt it was finally time to see what was past those lovely shop windows – currently boasting the must-need pastels of the coming season. Inside I found more pastels in all sorts of shapes, all rather traditional and well-structured, but with a twist. Such as the chain mail trim on a fitted cream tweed dress (zł. 1,490) or bursts of chiffon blossoms fluffing out of pockets and atop shoulders on a similar number. It’s like the middle ground between girlish and grown-up; a little bit of serious, sophisticated and sexy. Okay, they’re not exactly affordable – but for this quality of tailoring, it makes sense. Further back, it’s becomes clear that pastels don’t entirely rule this shabby-chic palace as there are a few safer colours: blacks, brown and plaids, plus a pretty daring mustard shade. They stock bags too – such as a roomy handbag in creamy caramel with a big bow splashed across the front (zl. 1,770). And while the bags are made in Italy, the rest of the collection is home-grown and home-sewn in Poznań. While there are a lot of Polish designers out there doing their thing, I have to say the Bizuu collection is at the head of the pack. (AL)

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more. Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into

www.warsawinsider.pl

SHOPPING the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www. loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. High quality menswear from premium labels such as Pointes & Coutures, Brunello Cucinelli and Cerruti 1881. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

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Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty. Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

ACCESSORIES 400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636,

www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space. Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży. Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highlycoveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan. Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo.

reykjavík district “The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone...” Warsaw Insider chose reykjavik district as their shop of the month (12.2011)

Boutique: Solec 18/20 street, +48 505 499 669 Open: Tue-Fri 13:00-19:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

SHOPPING HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www. lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884,www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the

offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy.

Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving. pl. Furniture and design store with Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available. Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl.

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SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Bio. Sis Nail Spa 73 / Plus:

* 6 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 73 / COMMUNITY 78 / EDUCATION 71 / FITNESS 77 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 76 / MEDICAL 77 / TRANSPORTATION 75

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a worldclass hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www.nailspabiosis.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BIO. SIS NAIL SPA

’m not big on pampering, but sometimes a lady just takes a look down at her nails and realizes it’s absolutely time for a manicure. That’s precisely how I was feeling on a cloudy weekday full of meetings. Somehow, I managed to trade my lunch hour for a quick nail fix, and this spot on Koszykowa is just a block from my office. I’ve walked by it lots of times, curious about this tiny little nail bar with the charming white-washed exposed brick and rows of rainbow jars of polish. This time I didn’t rush past, I stepped right in and felt immediately welcome. All the staff are friendly and polite, making you feel instantly at home. They also all speak English (the owner of this place spent a chunk of time in Australia, and actually modeled the place on those quickie nail bars abroad). Most importantly, the price is right: zł. 49 for a classic manicure and zł. 99 for a spa pedicure. They also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries, but I was just here for the basics. I had a great chat with the owner’s sister while the really nice girl exfoliated my hands, massaged them perfectly and got to work making my dry, brittle hands human again. It was the most relaxing hour of my day. I decided to go a bit wild and chose green nails as I usually opt for safe nudes and pinks. It was time to get a little more creative with my boring beauty regimen. It’s a tiny place, but somehow it fits three staff and at least three customers. They’ve even got one of those ultra-fancy spa chairs tucked in by the window. The place is a great mix of original elements - the tiling is obviously pre-war - and an old-fashioned radiator. But the manicure table and all the accessories are thoroughly current. And it’s not just for the ladies – a gentleman came in for a manicure appointment just as I was leaving. It may just be the smallest nail salon I’ve ever seen, but it’s somehow the most comfortable too. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

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LIFESTYLE Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

3-star hotels

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna. Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room. Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests. Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

TOP HOTELS AROUND POLAND Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels

Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

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Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling, billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Northeast Poland

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel. 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries. An atmosperic converted castle that is supposedly haunted. Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl. Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www. topnoclegwarszawa.pl. Apartments from zł. 180.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl. Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and

from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

EXCLUSIVE DAY SPA IN THE HEART OF WARSAW OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF BEAUTY AND BODY THERAPIES INCLUDING MASSAGE THERAPY, FACIAL, MANICURE, PEDICURE FOR WOMEN AND MEN CENTRUM LIM (Behind the MARRIOTT Hotel) level -1, shop 20 (In the direction of the Central Station) tel. +48/22/630 64 70 mobile 883 529 791 www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday 8.30-20.30 Saturday 9.00-17.00 Sunday for special order

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LIFESTYLE TRAVEL AGENCY

treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

TAXIS

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

FCm Travel Express al. Jana Pawła II 19, tel. 22 453 5353, travelexpress.pl.

Bayer tel. 22 19697 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc MPT tel. 22 1919 OK Taxi tel. 22 19628 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

cure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center. Hair-a-Porter (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558 1555. The friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women. Hair & Nail Concept ul. Marynarska 50, tel. 22 360 40404, www.hairandnailconcept.pl. Top class hair & nail care, as well as a créche and disabled facilities. Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Izar Repechage ul. Molera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage. net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and mani-

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages.

Oasis Beauty Day Spa Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6470, www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl. A range of beauty and spa treatments, including therapeutic massage and pedicure. Located on -1 level of the LIM Centre in the Marriott/LOT building. Open 8:30-20:30; Sat 9:00-15:00; Sun by special request. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

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FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu. Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www.dentalux.pl. Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more. Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

PRIVATE CLINICS

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96. The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health. Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl. Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl. Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city which is free for hotel guests. World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

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LIFESTYLE Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl. Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5,

ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com. Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818.

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 22 822 2891. ul. Puławska 39

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl. Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob. 603 378 567. Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi. Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl. Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

Wrinkle Removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 Fractional Laser - 50% Discount in April al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl

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Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com. Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as

well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl. Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl.aa Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03. English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting. There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com. The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406. European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr. The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young

cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us...

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www. pff-warsaw.com. Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl. Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl. Friends Creative Activities ul. Przyczółkowa 334, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl. Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl. Habitat for Humanity International This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl. International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia

FREE INTRODUCTORY CLASS !

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Parent/Child Classes

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Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

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LIFESTYLE Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. 601 897 731. International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members. The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osińska at: a.osinska@mabor.com.pl. New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and

prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com. Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl. Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook. St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year. Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered charity. More information: www. talizman.org. Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. To request an invitation or for further

information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org. pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451. TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www.travelfriends.pl. Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com. The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate, theory, practice and field trips. For more information: www. wsfoto.art.pl/english.

CHILDREN

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-andeat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. pl. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the Warsaw one set to open this November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio and a ‘weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.’

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Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com. To be listed in this section, please fax your info to 22 639 8569 or e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl.

EDUCATION POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices either in small groups or private classes.

PRESCHOOLS

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials. Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281;

www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide range of extra-curricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@ canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in

Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated

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LIFESTYLE the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob. 605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl.

HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob. 608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district. La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl. This preschool has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching.

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Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396. Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. PolishCanadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, Warszawa-Włochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori

Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extra-curricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps.

SCHOOLS

education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid. high@canadian-school.pl.

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years

old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level. La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old. Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS Tailor-made INDIVIDUAL and MINIGROUP courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

tel. 664 788 004 info@klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r s a wInsider: I n s i d e01-30 r : 0 1 April – 3 1 2012 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 Warsaw

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

What’s Warsaw’s secret? I often go to Paris, where people are just bored and have no will to act. In Poland there’s a lot of fresh energy, people are willing to change something. What cultural differences have you noted? When I see someone in my building, I automatically say “hello” – we share a living space. And I get looked at like I’ve just dropped from the moon! These are small things but they make life harder. Also people do not smile, and they need time to get used to you. Once you dig in them, they appear to be great people, but you need persistence before that. You organize festivals and music projects. How did you start about in Warsaw? I had no idea how to begin. While working at the Zachęta I met an old colleague from primary school and it appeared that we both did music projects. We decided to join forces during the Francophonic Festival. As I’d lived for a while in Switzerland, I managed to get some Swiss artists across. I also collaborated with Kamieniołomy club, which itself is a relatively young place: music is one of the things that forms people at around 16 years old; if you invest in them at that age, you’ll see the seed growing.

Following a stint in Afghanistan Liza Sherzai is back in her homeland, working for the French Institute and bringing music to the masses. BY AGNIESZKA JĘKSA

What brought you here from Afghanistan? There are people with Polish roots, such as the photographer Nicolas Grospierre or the film director Rafael Lewandowski, who chose Warsaw as their place. So did I. My mother is Polish, so we speak Polish. I spent my childhood in Poland, but left as I felt kind of depressed. The idea of returning came from my previous partner. After living in Slovakia, Italy and France I decided to say “sorry” to Poland and moved here in 2006. Warsaw Insider: 01-30 April 2012

The LFSM festival, simply by putting women in first place, led to gossip that it’d be a ‘queer, feministic, lesbian thing’. You’ve even had your own sexuality questioned. Is Warsaw mentally ready for festivals such as yours? Pre-war Warsaw used to be a very multi-cultured city, but this changed with the war. Still, the city has changed dynamically, it’s a part of the EU and I believe it is ready for such events. Polish people travel a lot nowadays for holiday, studies and work, and have become much more open. Once they go abroad and taste something unusual, they’re willing to reproduce it in their home town. But maybe the public isn’t ready yet for festivals with a defined format, like the LFSM – it’s dedicated to women and shows women from varied angles. Still, even if there are women composers, there’s no such thing as “women’s music”. Since moving back to Poland in 2006 Liza Sherzai has been organizing music projects and festivals, such as the Francophonic Festival, Les Femmes S’en Meˆlent (LFSM) and the Film Music Festival.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FRENCH CONNECTION

What difficulties do you find working in Poland? In Poland things aren’t transparent. You need written confirmation for every gentlemen’s agreement. In fact, there’s no such thing as a gentlemen’s agreement, and that used to be a holy thing for me! It’s a different mental approach that stems for sure from Communism, and it still disturbs me. Of course, one huge problem in Warsaw is the lack of a proper concert venue.

A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice. • A MASTERFUL MENU CREATED BY CHEF JOSEPH • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.kuchniajozka.pl www.josephwinebar.pl