SUMMER GUIDE 2019 The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996
AUGUST 2019
276 08/2019
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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BEACH BUNNY BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS MARYSIA SWIM ONETEASPOON SFELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN
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editorial INFRONT
Editor-in-chief Alex Webber
5 News
insider@warsawinsider.pl
Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl
FEATURES
Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
14 Summer Guide: Public spaces, Fountains, Parks, Cycling, Sunset Views, Wisła Nightlife
Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight
24 Old Town Guide: Essentials, Museum of Warsaw, Rebuilding Warsaw, Monuments
Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com
EAT!
37 Review:
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Uki Green 38 Head to Head: Baron Vs Seeletso 40 Roundup: Outdoor Dining 42 Roundup: Ice Cream
osh. We’ve seen higher temperatures, but there’s still been times over summer when getting to sleep has been like taking a lie-down on a baking bed of coals. Why bother even trying? So we haven’t. Instead, we’ve joined the rest of Warsaw by partying on the Wisła with the great and the good – for that, see p. 26. Mind you, that forms just a small chunk of our summer guide to the city: inside, we’ve compiled an exhaustive rundown of seasonal musts, running from the parks you can’t miss to the squares to chill out in. Beyond the frivolity, we also bring you a primer on the Warsaw Uprising, the doomsday battle that led to the devastation of the city. With its 75th anniversary falling on August 1st, the standstill moment that occurs each year at 5 p.m. to mark the beginning of the insurgency is a goose bump occasion that stirs all who see it.
DRINK! 75 Review:
Foton 70 Roundup: Outdoor Drinking
AUGUST 2019
DO!
ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com
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Museum on the Vistula 95 Back Story: Warsaw Uprising 96 Museums 109 Essentials 1 10 Map 1 12 Events: Warsaw Uprising
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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover It’s summer, so it’s just got to be the Wisła see you there! (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)
Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
93 Review:
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in the
NEWS IN NUMBERS
944,000 Złoty
The total cost of the Pl. Bankowy relaxation zone
386,000 Złoty
The cost of fixtures and fittings
275,000 Złoty
The organizational cost of the project
257,600 Złoty
The amount spent of ‘greeningup’ the square with trees
1,853 The number
Of flowers and shrubs
THE CONFLICT ZONE A seasonal ‘relaxation zone’ in the
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
center of Warsaw has found itself at the center of a political storm after being unveiled in the middle of June. Highlighting the bitter division between Poland’s ruling populist party, PiS, and the capital’s more liberal leadership, the ‘strefa relaksu’ on Pl. Bankowy has been slammed by its critics for its cost and roundly mocked for its clumsy aesthetics. Dubbed ‘the concrete beach’ and ‘the asphalt desert’ by its detractors, many have been quick to question the wisdom of spending zł. 920,000 on an
installation that, at first glance, doesn’t comprise of much more than a collection of wooden pallets and some pot plants. Facing a growing PR battle, City Hall have moved quickly to defend themselves, reminding residents that the majority of physical elements – trees and benches included – will be donated to Warsaw’s parks after the summer. Internet users, too, have sprang to City Hall’s defense: “the execution might have been poor,” wrote one, “but it’s still a thousand times better than just having a car park dominating one of the city’s busiest squares.”
515
The seating capacity Of the new zone
200
The number
Of books available in the mobile library
70
Percent
Of fittings and decorations to be reused warsawinsider.pl
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News ENVIRONMENT
I’m Planet Earth: Save Me!
Warsaw has become the first city in the world to install smart recycling machines that incentivize the public to treat their waste responsibly. Developed by the Kraków-based firm EcoTech System, users can dispatch their aluminum, glass and plastic trash inside the contraptions before receiving points in return via a mobile app. In turn, these points can later be redeemed in the form of cinema tickets or shopping discounts. As things stand, machines can be found on Pl. Zbawiciela and Pl. Bankowy, with plans already in place to increase the total number to ten by the end of the summer.
CIT Y
Thirsty Work
Thirty new drinking fountains have debuted around town as part of a pilot project to encourage the public to make the switch from bottled water to tap. Rolled out just in time for the heatwave, the fountains are also equipped with built-in dog bowls at the base. Once water quality tests have been completed, expect more to spring up around Warsaw.
ART
Twenty-eight years after it was removed, an installation titled A Simple Rainbow has returned to the space in front of the Zachęta Gallery. Authored by Marek Sobczyk, the latest incarnation of this work of art is aimed as “acting as a pretext for dialogue about the modern world.” Unveiled at the tail end of June, its reappearance has come at a moment when LGBT issues have become the talk of the times – in July, Białystok’s first ever equality parade made news around Europe after it came under attack.
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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA
Rainbow Nation?
News HERITAGE on to design Dworzec Centralny) and has since been described by critics as a ‘pearl of modernism’. A cult port-of-call on any tour of post-war architectural gems, the saucer-shaped building has also played a key role in the artistic life of the city: Polish street artist NeSpoon has appearing in a video recorded in 2002 by cult band scandalized critics with her reimagSuper Girl & Romantic Boys, it was later revived as ining of a modernist jewel… the popular Warszawa Powiśle dive bar. For many, it was here that Warsaw’s hipster movement was first born a decade or so ago. rchitecture buffs and urban The artsy leanings linger to this day, and whilst conservationists were left outraged NeSpoon’s revamp was both a legal and temporary after a protected building found artistic expression, the facelift caused widespread itself temporarily redecorated with horror among leading municipal figures. “It’s bad!” a lace-like pattern by the famed wrote Michał Krasucki, the city’s chief conservator. Polish street artist NeSpoon. Touting a cosmic “Decorating the ceiling with lace completely misses form inspired by the Soviet Union’s forays into its sublime and ethereal character and spoils the space, the former ticket booth at PKP Powiśle was minimalism of this architecture.” Having sparked a completed in 1963 to a design by Piotr Szymaniak brief storm on social media, the structure has now and Arseniusz Romanowicz (who would later go been returned to its original color.
State Of The Art
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
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News
CULTURE
Praga’s Otwarta Ząbkowska festival returns with its annual dose of weird…
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ore than just another street, Ząbkowska has long been considered Praga’s spiritual gateway – in layman’s terms, a place where ‘things happen’. A celebration of art, literature, film, music, theater and food, the annual Otwarta Ząbkowska festival is the physical manifestation of this, a prism through which the area has been able to channel its artistic soul. If once the district was derided as a lawless hotbed of thievery and crime, a combination of favorable rents and city-led regeneration schemes witnessed a spurt of
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creative growth that prompted comparisons to Berlin’s Kreuzberg district. From across Poland, NGOs and independent forces flocked to play their part in the unlikely renaissance. “They were special times,” recalls Krzysztof Kudelski of the nearby Stopni 81 exhibition space, “but then, round about 2014, the local government changed their viewpoint on what kind of culture should be promoted – instead of alternative events we suddenly had Disco Polo nights and mainstream pop concerts. Those of us who had relocated here felt cheated.” The response was swift.
Along with five other key players, Kudelski founded Otwarta Ząbkowska, a multidisciplinary event that sees a sub-section of Ząbkowska closed each weekend in July and August and transformed into a vibrant showpiece of arty activity: featuring outdoor yoga, offbeat concerts, vintage markets and assorted weirdness such as dog parades, mannequin marches, ‘oriental chillout nights’, zero waste cocktail workshops and much more besides, it’s become one of the capital’s best-loved weekends. Eccentric, innovative and dynamite good fun, you miss it at your peril. Otwarta Ząbkowska Every weekend until September 1st. For details, see: otwartazabkowska.pl
PRESS MATERIAL
An Open Secret
News DESIGN
Alpha Mail
A series of stamps commemorating the oddest holidays you’ve never heard of have earned a young Polish designer worldwide attention…
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Warsaw-based designer has had his work thrust under an international spotlight after creating a set of stamps celebrating bizarre, little-known holidays. Titled ‘The Calendar of Unusual Holidays’, the 60-strong series started life after its creator, Jacek Walesiak, found himself caught down an internet rabbit hole. “I was flipping about the web one day,” he says, “when I came across a list of all the weird and crazy holidays around the world. Essentially, that was the beginning of the project – I realized it was an interesting subject and that it hadn’t really been explored by anyone else before.”
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Simultaneously inspired by Graphilately (an Instagram feed dominated by curious stamps from around the globe), as well as the poor state of Poland’s own stamps, Walesiak was prompted to take matters into his own hands. “From the 60s to the 80s, Polish stamp design was of a really high standard,” he says, “but look at them now, however, and you feel like crying a river! I wanted to keep things simple: first, because stamps are small pieces of paper, and secondly, because the ones we currently have in this country are way too complex. They carry too much information and feature too many elements. It might be cliché, but less is more!” First conceiving the idea in 2015, he used it as the basis for his diploma, taking care to pick out the quirkiest holidays he could find. “I love all of them to be honest,” he laughs, “but if I had to choose then I absolutely adore Tram Driver’s Day, Marine Day and Towel Day (editorial note: a tribute to author Douglas Adams).” Of the others featured in the collection, days honoring donuts, Pac-Man, Winnie the Poo and the caps lock key are all given a nod. Walesiak, who currently runs the UVMW creative agency alongside his business partner, Robert Mendel, has now recently found his illustrations given a second life after they were exposed to a wider audience by portals such as The Calvert Journal and Mintage World. Though only available in limited sets to private buyers, hopes linger that they could yet land in a post office near you. “It’s my absolute dream to create a real set of stamps for Poczta Polska,” grins Walesiak, “but after contacting them in 2017 I’m still waiting for a reply!” Maybe it’s been lost in the post…
For more info on UVMW, see: uv-warsaw.com
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SUMMER GUIDE 2019
water way to spend the summer Your ultimate summer guide to summer in the city!
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Opposites Attract Reclaimed from the brink, the left bank of the Wisła has come far since the early noughties when it served as a stinky summer playground for troublemakers and yobs. The result of a patient and ambitious regeneration scheme, what’s blossomed has been one of the most impressive riverfront promenades in Europe: lined with award-winning institutions such as the Copernicus Science Center and the Museum of Modern Art, and in-filled with sculptures, fountains and random pops of art, it’s become the default weekend retreat of all those in town. Recognized for its cultural program, and hailed for its nocturnal scene, the buzz of the left is balanced out by the untamed natural landscape of the opposite side. “What amazing landscaping,” one Japanese delegate is said to have once remarked to the Mayor, “how much did it all cost.” A sanctuary of wildlife, it’s the ultimate yin and yang pairing in this city of contrasts – by overlooking either you miss out on Warsaw.
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SUMMER GUIDE 2019
FOUR SEASON WONDER
Artist Bruno Althamer’s depiction of Kora – a best-selling rock musician and popular media personality – won blanket approval when it was unveiled in January of this year, and has continued to thrill the public as the months have passed. Purposefully positioned next to a tree, the mural was designed to change with the seasons with the blooming shrubbery giving the impression of hair growth. Widely praised for the dignified manner with which she battled against ovarian cancer, Kora succumbed to the disease in 2018 but is fondly remembered both for her music and her message of tolerance and openness. The mural, meanwhile, has proved to be one of the most photogenic in a city brimming with bold, creative art. See for yourself behind the Branicki Palace on Nowy Świat 18/20.
Doing It In Public! Fully revamped as a shiny plaza in 2010, Pl. Grzybowski is the ultimate inner city oasis, a place where ample seating can be found amid sprouting shrubs and miniature waterfalls. Framing this small micro-world, a 360 turn acts as a peephole into the story of Warsaw: the Stalin era Palace of Culture, the brutish housing blocks of the PRL, Tsarist-age tenements, and cobbled, pre-war Próźna – once a hub of Jewish trade. And there’s skyscrapers: when you’ve had your fill of Grzybowski, head to the little courtyard wedged by Helmut Jahn’s striking Cosmopolitan Tower. Here, under a gently see-sawing installation depicting a man and woman, chill out with zero waste cocktails from Cosmo or artfully composed South
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the community – that’s never truer than in summer when deckchairs are unfolded for outdoor screenings of both cult kino classics and modern day hits. Much hyped when it opened last year, Centrum Praskie Koneser have hit their first full summer with all guns blazing. Set in the grounds of a former vodka distillery built to keep spirits high among the Tsarist garrison based in what was then Russian-controlled Warsaw, CPK offer more than just a cool, post-industrial backdrop. Among all the steel, glass and brickwork, discover a lively events program that has, thus far, included tango workshops, Zumba classes, food truck meets, cinema screenings, jazz nights and more – hell, lined-up for August, they’ve even got a celebration of the 25th anniversary of Friends! If you’re visiting at the weekend, then don’t overlook the Otwarta Ząbkowska festival down the road (see p. 10).
It’s not just the Wisła that Joe Public converges on each summer: check out these inner city sanctums for a taste of the Polish summer.
American delicacies from Ceviche Bar. Rarely does Warsaw feel so fab! Of all the squares that ‘get things done’, few match up to Pl. Europejski. Forming a core part of the new business district in western Wola, the gleaming Warsaw Spire is a pleasing sight at any time of day. But it looks even better at night, which is when both the tower, and the iconic I HEART WARSAW neon at the bottom, appear at their sparkly best. Said to be Warsaw’s first post-war public-use square, the floor plan involves tinkling water features, curving pathways and splashes of urban art. Targeted at more than just commuting office bods, it’s an area that’s fully engaged
There aren’t many recent projects that have garnered as much ridicule as the ‘relaxation zone’ on Pl. Bankowy (which, frankly, says much given the number of white elephants this city has had), but that doesn’t make it the outright calamity some would have you believe. Taking the place of a concrete void that had been hitherto used as a car park, instead find an area comprised of pallet seating, mist curtains, communal benches, a mobile library and other added extras such as a bar, recycling point, food trucks and music stage. It’s unlikely to scoop anything other than Booby Prizes come the end of the year, but it’s still an almighty improvement on what had been previously described as a ‘tarmac desert punctuated by tram stops’. Famously decried by author Jerzy Kosiński as being a ‘windswept tundra’, Pl. Defilad has long been seen as one of Warsaw’s great missed opportunities. Opinions are changing and credit for that goes to a number of official institutions and NGOs that have clubbed together to ensure that, for the fourth year running, the space underneath Stalin’s phallic gift to Poland will see a run of 120 events spanning the course of the summer. Featuring what must surely be a contender for Poland’s biggest communal table, expect it all from arty film screenings and ‘mega choirs’ to formal outdoor dinners and book readings. Bolstering the program is Bar Studio’s own busy roster comprising of Stevie Wonder parties, gramophone nights and silent discos. For decades deemed impersonal and detached, all are evidence that PKiN has finally become The People’s Palace! warsawinsider.pl
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View Finder
Don’t mess with anything but the best sunset spots Watch candy floss-colored sunsets from the cosmic rooftop garden that sits on top of the BUW Library (Dobra 68/70). Festooned with Triffid-style plant life and slashed with futuristic walkways, this unexpected park comes with the bonus of fab riverside views. Think of the bell tower of St. Anne’s (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) as a stairway to heaven. Haul yourself up the 147 steps to enjoy the city’s most picturesque viewing platform – i t’s Warsaw’s top kiss spot! When skies turn red head to the bridges of Warsaw. Scissored in shadows from crisscrossing steel support pillars, Gdański is a favorite for lovebirds, as is Świętokrzyski (pictured) – featured in a medley of romcoms, the initialed padlocks clamped to the railings are proof of its enduring appeal. For the best view, though, head to Siekierkowski: flanked by woodland, the river's natural bend and the distant glinting skyline make it a favorite with professional photographers. At least do it once. Throughout summer, the 30th floor deck of the Gotham-esque Palace of Culture (Defilad 1), stays open till 11:30 p.m. each Fri and Sat. Seeing Warsaw’s illuminations spark up for the night is a sensation well deserving of the zł. 22 entrance. At The View (Twarda 18), you’re dancing with the stars in more ways than one. Rammed silly with an A-Z list of local celebs, the open air deck of this 32nd floor club is the final word in NYC-style high living. Accessed by Warsaw’s longest staircase, climb to the top of Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego (ul. Bartycka) for endless city views. Created from war rubble, the 141-meter mound is crowned by a monument to the Warsaw Uprising. Lit on August 1st of each year, a ceremonial pyre at the top is kept burning for 63 days to honor each day of the doomed insurgency.
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M E T R O P O L I TA N B U I L D I N G
M U LT I M E D I A F O U N TA I N PA R K
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Watering Holes
The fountains you just can’t miss… The Multimedia Fountain Park between the Old Town and Wisła has thrilled millions since debuting eight years ago. Tricked out with 367 jets capable of shooting 30,000 liters of water per minute, the carefully choreographed weekend displays are paired with synchronized audio and visual displays and often attract crowds of thousands (the record: 35,000!!). Catch the show each Fri & Sat at 9.30 p.m. Recognized as the first ‘intelligent’ fountain in the country, the one at the center of Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building (a.k.a. The Donut), tops out at 15 meters and has been programed to respond to wind conditions to ensure the water never sprays beyond a certain radius – but that doesn’t stop kids from treating it like a water curtain and walking right inside its arcing jets of water. Recently restored, though still pitted with war time bullet holes, the city’s defining mascot – the mermaid – has been captured in bronze via the fountain-statue at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge. Reportedly the last monument to be unveiled before the Nazi occupation, the woman on which the statue was modeled upon – a 23-year-old poetess by the name of Krystyna Krahelska – was fatally wounded on the opening day of the ’44 Uprising. A throwback to pre-war times, Leandro Marconi’s fountain by Kino Muranów depicts three boys holding an oar, a net and a trident, and was first erected in 1866 on Krakowskie Przedmieście. Shifted to make way for the Mickiewicz statue a few decades on, today its juxtaposed between a socialist housing estate, a metro stop and Pl. Bankowy’s cumbersome Blue Tower. It’s a scene that epitomizes the capital’s disjointed aesthetic.
TEST THE WATER
The silence is reverential. An enchanting and ethereal sight, the vaulted ceilings of the subterranean crypts that lie ahead are reflected by the water to create a kaleidoscope effect that’s dreamlike in its imagery. Such is the stillness, the spiders weaving webs provide the most audible sound. Where lies this magical kingdom? Well, as unlikely as it may sound, this is Warsaw’s Filtry Station. Constructed 133-years ago on the behest of the Russian President of Warsaw, Sokrates Starynkiewicz, the municipal waterworks were his answer to the typhus epidemics that had dogged 20th century Warsaw. Headhunting Englishman William Lindley to lead the design process, the water processing plant’s completion in 1886 ensured that Warsaw was only the sixth European city with a modern sewage system. Despite criticisms at the time (some rumors claimed the sewers were part of a Jewish plot to spread disease and wipe-out the Slavs), Lindley’s masterpiece functions to this day alongside more recent buildings such as a plant built during Europe’s Art Deco heyday. Along with a revamped museum filled with strange odds and ends, these facilities are all yours to visit: the caveat? It’s like scoring a Golden Ticket for Willy Wonka’s factory. Open only in July and August, online tickets get snapped up the moment they’re released. Our advice? Work your charms on the people at Woda Dla Warszawy (fb.com/WodadlaWarszawy).
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WHEELY GOOD!
No longer the lethal pastime it once was, today cyclists have over 500 kilometers of bike lanes to enjoy as well as one of the Central Europe’s most successful bike share programs. Unleashed to wide acclaim in 2012, Veturilo ‘city bikes’ are prevalent across town and require little more than a quick registration followed by an initial fee of zł. 10 (veturilo.waw.pl). Signing up grants you access to their fleet of standard bikes, tandems, children’s bikes and electric bikes – offering approximately 5,500 bikes at 380 terminals, rides lasting under 20-minutes are free, whilst rides of 21-minutes to 60-minutes are charged at zł. 1. Wearing a helmet is advised but not required, and cyclists new to Warsaw should remember that the same booze laws apply to cycling as they do driving – that’s less than a beer. If you’re unfamiliar with the city (or even if you aren’t), then bikemap.net contains suggestions for over 280 routes, splitting them into convenient categories such as flat routes, quick rides, long tours, etc. Those looking to take safety in numbers should, in August, look to join the Critical Mass Warsaw Uprising Ride. Scheduled for 5 p.m. on August 3rd, and leaving from the Rising Museum, the 19 km ride will follow a trail inspired by the 1944 exploits of the Home Army’s Parasol battalion. Register at: 1944.pl/rejestracja
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Feeling Green? With 762 hectares of parkland to enjoy within the city, the Insider edits down the choices to bring you the best…
P O L E M O KO T O W S K I E
If on first appearances Pole Mokotowskie looks slightly dull, it surprises all that visit. Prior to WWII Warsaw’s original airport stood here, as did a horse track, and the size of its 68.5 hectare footprint made it a favorite for military exercises and parades; its history is remembered by way of numerous monuments, including one dedicated to the cavalrymen that once trained here. Not all its landmarks are gravely serious – check, for instance, the statue of Lokat, a happy Golden Retriever that’s been placed inside the park to remind people to show animals a little love. Then there’s ‘Cosmo Golem’, an unexpected wooden statue of an alien-like beast. Unveiled in 2009, kids are encouraged to write down their wishes before climbing up some steps and posting them inside him. The number of bars, jogging trails and ample cycling opportunities all conspire to make Pole Mokotowskie hugely popular, and it’s also noted for its ‘Kapuściński trail’. Named in honor of Poland’s only officially sanctioned foreign correspondent during communism the trail follows the route this best-selling author used to take on his strolls. On the way, find quotes from his books as well as examples of his photography. Distinguished by its complete lack of ‘Keep Off The Grass’ signs, it’s deservedly become known as the park of the people. warsawinsider.pl
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SUMMER GUIDE 2019 There’s one reason to visit Bródno, and that’s for a sculpture park that’s commonly cited as one of Warsaw’s best kept artistic secrets. Sprinkled with crazy installations, highlights number an upside tea house, a bronze nude with jets of water shooting from her nipples, and an invisible sculpture that you really can’t see… Reduced to its current size after the war, Dolina Szwajcarska is a serene alcove of sunken gardens and winding paths: its name, Little Switzerland, is completely appropriate. Snatch a shaded spot near the fountain and ornamental turtles and off you go with Chapter 1. Immaculately preened, weekends at Krasiński draw groups of middle class friends armed with picnics and their own set of boules. Bottles of wine find their way into the hampers, and there’s enough private corners to enjoy sunset toasts. The set of rules at the entrance of Królikarnia sets the tone: visitors are permitted and encouraged to fly kites, read books and hug statues! Of the latter, there’s plenty – in fact, the palace at the center (built for Augustus II who essentially used it as a “high class brothel”) is home to a sculpture museum.
it one of the first publicly accessed parks in the world. In 1816 a green fingered Englishman gave it its current look. Those that appreciate pageantry will enjoy the noon changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Little-known sights of Skaryszewski include a 9/11 monument dedicated to the six Poles who died in the tragedy and a commemorative boulder saluting an RAF plane that was downed during WWII. But it’s no surprise these go overlooked given the number of decorative waterfalls and expansive lakes. Laid out over war rubble, this former industrial area was remodeled by landscape artist Alina Scholtze and her team of little helpers: over 15,000 school kids volunteered to create Park Śmigłego-Rydza. Features of spellbinding Ujazdwoski include a statue called Ewa (designed by Edward Witting, a former student of Rodin), a cute rock pool with a teeny, weeny humpbacked bridge, and a stout, green cabin containing one of only two such weighing scales remaining in the world – it’s been used by Charles De Gaulle!
At Kępa Potocka, the curving canal-side pathway is popular with roller bladers, cyclists and joggers – bu when the sensible stuff is done head to the U Araba grill bar to watch sundown over sausages and beer. Serving as the summer residence of the last King of Poland, it was under his auspices that structures such as ‘the White House’ (an elegant den for the King’s preferred mistress), an open-air Greco-Roman amphitheater inspired by Herculaneum and the dramatic ‘Palace on the Water’ were added to Łazienki. A throwback to the Imperial Age, the gorgeous gardens are today ruled by the snobby peacocks that have made it their home. And don’t miss the free, open-air Chopin concerts that take place each Sunday. Peppered with Moorish-style towers and neo-Gothic details designed by Henryk Marconi, Morskie Oko is a good candidate for the city’s spookiest park. Aside from a creepy mausoleum, the balcony of the building at No. 5 is haunted by a weeping teenage girl shot by a Nazi sniper. First mapped out in 1713, the decision to share the glory of Ogród Saski in 1727 made
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S K A RYS Z E W S K I
BRÓDNO
U JA Z D W O S K I
OGRÓD SASKI
ŁAZIENKI
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One Night In Summer
As is our tradition – and Warsaw’s – the Insider explores the gentle chaos that is the Wisła at night…
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
T
hey’ve been here a while, watching the skies turn from scarlet to indigo before stopping at black. Under the stretching steel humps of Poniatowski Bridge, hundreds have gathered to drink into the night. They are of all ages and of all backgrounds, a point affirmed by the tidal waves of sound: hip hop beats thump from a voombox only to be swallowed by the energetic bursts from a nearby bongo. Somewhere, a guitar plays, its plaintive tune quickly lost amid the Ibiza tracks from a passing boat. Soon, these sounds have swelled to form one big swirl of undefinable sound. The energy is electric. For years now, summer in Warsaw has been about the Wisła. Ambitiously redeveloped under the orders of the former Mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz, the boulevards now lining the left side have become synonymous with the season. “You won’t find boulevards anywhere else,” she once declared during the unmasking of one section. “Not the Tiber, the Thames nor even the Seine – this is one of the best promenades in Europe, possibly even the world.” If the claim sounded dubious at the time it has proved anything but. Stretching several kilometers, and developed using the latest technical knowledge, the riverfront parade has become a self-contained city featuring all that entails: A-Class cultural institutions, swank apartments, busy little markets and unexpected happenings – it wouldn’t even be daring to call it cosmopolitan. Of course, it’s a far cry from yesteryear. Reverting to now and then comparisons, you need only look back to the beginning of the millennium to remember it as an area that was hostile and hateful. Lined with rickety sheds selling plastic pints of lager to Shrek-like goons, a low was reached when a Japanese tourist was chucked into the river by a belligerent mob of locals. A year or so later, a corpse was recovered from underneath a barge – it was missing its head. When City Hall clamped down on riverside drinking it was seen as an overdue reaction to an impassable problem. warsawinsider.pl
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SUMMER GUIDE 2019
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Pick Six Barka
Skwer im. Tadeusza Kahla fb.com/planbarka
Barka Wynurzenie
Przystań Nowa Fala
Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona fb.com/PrzystanNowaFala
Bulwar B. GrzymałySiedleckiego fb.com/wynurzenie
Sen
Brooklyn Square
Zachodni Brzeg
ul. Wioślarska 6 fb.com/brooklynbulwary
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT
Skip forward a decade and a bit and you wonder if all that came before was just a bad, far-fetched dream. Now comfortably enshrined in national legend, an evening at the Wisła has become one of the Commandments of Warsaw – a fact recognized by The Guardian when, in 2016, they named it as having one of Europe’s top riverside scenes. It remains so, and this despite fears earlier in the year when City Hall declared they would be limiting noise and introducing sterner regulations. You would never know. Like entering an undulating wall of beats and shrieks, the area around Poniatowski Bridge remains an amorphous blur of drunken din. Bringing their own booze – often bags of it – it’s here that the public assembles on the steps leading to the shore. From there, some simply don’t move for the rest of the night. For others, however, it’s a convenient springboard for the rest of the evening. Certainly, the choice feels unending. Carried north by the throng, your route gains nautical potential thanks to the scattering of floating bars – bounce across the gangplank to reach Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge that gently rocks on the waves, or head to the slick, upmarket confines of Przystań Nowa Fala. Moored next to the white cube that is the Museum on the Vistula, it’s a zone that feels pristine and perfect in more ways than one. Then, having passed numerous bridges lit in glowing colors, no excursion in this direction is complete without a stop at Barka. With stars glinting above the white sails strung across the deck, it’s a destination of near mythical standing. Nowadays, mind you, it’s the southern rump that sees the most action. Defined by its flouncy crowd, Zachodni Brzeg offers a grandly-sized terrace that’s roped-off from the plebs, while a little further Brooklyn Square has become the talk of the town – framed by food and bar trucks, it’s an explosion of sensations that feel pleasingly hip. Later, observe the ground level shenanigans from the prime perching point that is Sen – understood to be the best club in Poland, it’s here you rub shoulders with the cream of the crop. Drinking cocktails served inside miniature bathtubs, the great and glorious wriggle and jiggle to cutting edge sounds before taking time out on the rooftop terrace. Just by being here you feel that you’ve made it in life. With the National Stadium gleaming in the distance, and dozens of fires flickering from the stretch of beach opposite, it’s a feeling to remember and treasure long after the cessation of summer.
ul. Wioślarska 6 fb.com/SENwarsaw ul. Wioślarska 10 fb.com/Zachodnibrzeg
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(Summer 2019)
THE ESSENTIALS
Tight on time? Then consider this fab four as the ones you can’t miss…
Royal Castle
St. John’s Cathedral
Completed in 1619 only to be later razed to the ground by the Nazis, the meticulous reconstruction of the zamek was only finished as recently as 1984. Magnificent and overthe-top, the interiors house numerous attractions, among them paintings by Rembrandt and Canaletto. A thorough exploration is a must.
Though lacking the outright splendor of Poland’s other great cathedrals, St. John’s isn’t short on stories. Built in the 14th century, it’s here that Europe’s first constitution was signed on May 3rd, 1791. Costing extra to enter, the crypt contains the tombs of Poland’s last monarch as well as numerous other premiers and dignitaries.
Barbican
Rynek
Acting as a bridge between Old and New Town, the red brick barbican was first erected in 1540 and was rebuilt after WWII using bricks shipped from Wrocław and Nysa. Today, a small but engaging exhibition detailing its history is concealed within its guts.
It’s in the main square that the sheer beauty of Warsaw’s Old Town truly strikes home. Framed by elaborately decorated tenements, highlights include the iconic mermaid statue in the center and the mind-blowing Museum of Warsaw. After, bite the bullet with an overpriced beer to soak in the atmosphere and the sounds of the buskers.
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SHUTTERSTOCK (4), OPPOSITE PAGE ALICJA SZULC
Old Town Guide
300 meters Kaweczyn Power Plant None of the numerous skyscrapers raised at the beginning of the 21st century have surpassed the height of the Palace of Culture and Science. Yet, in 1983, the record was smashed by the chimney of a power plant located on the eastern fringes of the city.
FIGURE IT OUT
The Museum of Warsaw’s Data section gives numbers a new meaning… Reprised as a treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, the first inkling that the Museum of Warsaw does things a little differently comes straight from the kick-off. Descending to the cellars, it’s here visitors enter the first of 21 thematic rooms. Dedicated to ‘data’, this opening section of the museum captures the unique character of Warsaw through the medium of numbers, presenting these figures via an engaging series of charts, maps and super cool graphics. Through this data, the Museum hope to verify stereotypes about the city, its residents and urban layout, as well as pinpoint events and phenomena that have influenced the capital’s shape. “The material was selected,” they affirm, “to provide first-time visitors with a basic knowledge of Warsaw while also inspiring those familiar with the city.” More importantly, it’s rather good fun. Packed with trivia concerning demographics, city limits, spatial changes, tallest buildings and city ‘firsts’, it’s perhaps the last that’s arguably the most engaging. A must for Warsawophiles looking to arm up on knowledge about the city’s first car (1896: two Benz vehicles purchased by industrialist Stanisław Grodzki), Warsaw’s original football derby (1921: Polonia stuffed Legia 8-0), the first regular striptease performances (1957: held in the Stodoła Student Club), and even the first kebab shop (1994: Saska K’s legendary Efes), it’s a fantastic spin on the anticipated experience.
231 meters Palace of Culture and Science Design: Lev Rudnev A symbolic gift from the Soviet Union to Warsaw amid thr post-war reconstruction efforts. Since the modernization of its spire in 1994, the building stands at 237 meters.
67 meters Prudential Design: Marcin Weinfeld The insurance company skyscraper housed offices and apartments; in 1939 an experimental television transmitter was installed on its roof.
Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl Admission: zł. 20/15 (free Thurs) warsawinsider.pl
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(Summer 2019)
Raised From The Dead Reduced to ashes by the end of the war, the story of Warsaw’s Old Town could easily be portrayed as one of tragedy. Instead, it is the reverse: the remarkable tale of an indomitable city that never gave up…
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“I
have seen many cities destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” So spoke General Eisenhower whilst touring the ruins of Warsaw. This was not an exaggeration. Such was the severity of damage, plans were mooted to shift the capital to Łódź and leave devastated Warsaw as a permanent memorial to the horror of war. For the communists, though, the opportunity to rebuild Warsaw as a model city was too good to overlook. In spite of some arguing for Old Town to be turned into an anonymous housing district (other concepts included transforming it into a park ringed by war rubble), the communists identified the value of reconstructing it from scratch. “The rebuilding of Warsaw was an act of national defiance,” wrote historian Norman Davies, and the raising of the Old Town “was shrewdly designed to establish the patriotic credentials of the post-war order.” The task in hand was never going to be simple and was further complicated by interfering authorities. Indeed, it was because of busybodies that Old Town wasn’t restored as faithfully as it could have been. Though activists and architects had maintained an exhaustive inventory of the city’s architecture in case the Nazis leveled the city, when it came to rebuilding Old Town these documents were largely overlooked in favor of twenty or so vedute authored by Bernardo Bellotto. While this artist was famed for his intricately detailed scenes, his paintings were plagued by inconsistencies. If he didn’t like something, he didn’t paint it and would add things that weren’t even there: these fancies all made the final cut. Why did authorities reject more authoritative sources? Essentially, because the painter captured ‘the spirit of the Polish enlightenment’, a period defined by its bold optimism yet also untroubled by the excesses of capitalism and all that it entailed. Although the decision to rebuild Old Town was only rubber stamped in 1949, the necessary mechanisms essential to its rebirth were already in place. In February, 1945, the Warsaw Reconstruction Office came into being and the Department of Architectural Heritage was established within its framework. Bossed by Piotr Biegański and Jan Zachwatowicz, the two undertook a project to categorize and preserve masonry that had survived intact (as a result, about 15% of today’s Stare Miasto is comprised of original Gothic and Renaissance fabric). The work of the pair was also substantially aided by the enthusiasm of homeowners who, as yet, had not had their homes appropriated by the government. It was on private initiative that the dwelling at Nowomiejska 10 became, in 1947, the first old town property to be completely rebuilt. Two years later Phase 1 of the reconstruction was initiated. Among other things, the plan involved the restoration of the Rynek. The work was meticulous and backbreaking: the removal of 500,000 cubic meters of rubble was conducted using hods and wheelbarrows, horse-drawn wagons and a mini rail line. When a crane finally arrived, it made headline news. Finally, Stage I was completed on July 22nd, 1953. Stalin’s death threw the rest of the reconstruction into chaos and work on Stare Miasto continued only intermittently (the Royal Castle, was only reopened in 1984). Nonetheless, persistence paid off in 1980 when Old Town was inducted onto UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Of course, the area maintains the contrived air of a “pseudo historical nature reserve”, but it’s impossible not to admire the sheer bloody mindedness that led to its (re)creation. Without it, Warsaw would not be Warsaw.
THIS PAGE NAC, OPPOSTE SHUTTERSTOCK
Old Town Guide
THE IMMORTALS!
The Old Town monuments you just can’t miss…
The Little Insurgent
The Mermaid
Jan Kiliński
Zygmunt’s Column
Modeled on Antek, a 13-yearold boy-soldier killed during the early stages of the battle, ‘the Little Insurgent’ monument became the first Uprisingrelated memorial authorized by the communists when it was unveiled in 1983.
A masterful cobbler, Jan Kiliński rose to prominence after raising a force of 20,000 men to fight in the 1794 Uprising. Raised in 1936, the statue was locked up by the Nazis in the National Museum. When the news became public knowledge, scouts daubed the walls with the message: “People Of Warsaw, I Am Here!” He’s stood on Podwale since 1959.
The city’s mythological protector has a trio of statues to her name, though it’s the one on the Rynek that most get to see. Constructed in 2008, it’s a clone of Konstanty Hegel’s 1855 original (see that in the Museum of Warsaw).
Twenty-two meters tall, the memorial to Zygmunt III Vasa – the guy who shifted the capital to Warsaw – was built on the orders of his son in 1644. Felled by an artillery round in 1944, the original lies to the side of the Royal Castle and is considered lucky to touch.
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Old Town Guide
The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and lively inner courtyard.
(Summer 2019)
Mazal Tov (1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub. Podwale Kompania Piwna (2) ul. Podwale 25, podwale25.pl
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Warszawski Sznyt (5) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl It’s a fact of life that Old Town’s restaurants are marketed at tourists, so it’s revealing that so many locals gravitate towards Szynt. The steak menu on ground level never fails to hit the spot, while the modernized Polish cuisine upstairs is made even better by the picture book view of the castle in front.
Stolica (3) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com An enjoyably nostalgic ride through bygone times, the atmosphere of the inter-bellum is reflected by a menu that celebrates the tastes of classic Poland with no quarter given. Formal service and white tablecloth D R I N K arrangements lend a typically Old Town ambiance. Bar & Books (6) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Świętoszek Tartuffe (4) Even regulars admit the prices are ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl steep, but that’s the trade-off for Designed by a pair of successful drinking inside an elegant coach stage designers, this vaulted brick house tucked behind the Old Town cellar has an elegant chic look that’s walls. The wood-paneled interiors are as classy as the cocktails and come served by smooth bartenders that could easily play extras in the Bond films that spool endlessly by the bar.
E AT
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rare for the area. The menu refines traditional Polish tastes to present good-looking dishes made from regional ingredients.
Celi Bar (7) ul. Świętojańska 27/29, celibar.com. pl If the ground level looks like a mundane, tacky tourist joint, then that’s because it is. But persevere and head to the sweaty downstairs dungeon level for a fridge that surpasses all expectations with its impressive collection of Polish craft and regional beers. Lapidarium (8) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com Not everywhere in the Rynek is an unmitigated catastrophe. At Lapidarium, sip regional beers whilst grappling with their signature half-meter sausage (!), homemade apple pie or gargantuan cheese boards. Adding to the enjoyment are friendly servers that aren’t there to fleece you. Maryensztadt (9) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11, restauracjamaryensztadt.pl Maryensztadt’s portfolio of beers gets better by the week. Increasingly experimental, find sour pineapple
IPAs sharing space alongside barrel aged coconut and vanilla stouts. There’s much to like, including a patio on one of the area’s quieter little squares.
Partner Check-in
Same Krafty (10) ul. Nowomiejska 10 With the lion’s share of Old Town’s bars content to serve second-rate lager from the big corpo breweries, Same Krafty win blanket praise for their hardcore commitment to artisanal beer. The primitive interior does nothing to stop locals and tourists alike from cramming it to the gunnels. When critical mass is reached, head opposite to their sister pub Same Krafty Vis A Vis. STORES Bursztynek (11) Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw features an abundance of unique amber-related souvenirs as well as a permanent exhibition exploring the history of amber, its creation and its uses throughout history. Lamus (12) ul. Nowomiejska 7, lamus.pl A magical world awaits of musty smells and leather-bound tomes. Complimenting the assortment of antiquarian books are a series of framed photos, antique maps, old coins and rare prints. Lapidarium (13) ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Cascading with trinkets, treasure, junk and bunkum, this antique store presents the opportunity for an afternoon spent endlessly rummaging. Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… Museum Of Warsaw (14) Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl There’s a few thousand reasons to visit this museum, and its bookstore is one. The collection of Warsaw-related books isn’t easily surpassed, and the offer complimented by a healthy stock of tasteful gifts and souvenirs that you’re not ashamed to buy. Polish Poster Gallery (15) ul. Piwna 28/30 Jazz up your living space with quirky art from the so-called Polish School of Poster. Though claustrophobic in size, contained within here is a fab horde of posters dating from the PRL heyday of this art form, right the way up to modern efforts from the recently deceased Ryszard Kaja.
The Return Of Świętoszek Tartuffe!
First established in 1986 by the Theater Guild as a place for performers to mingle, the freshly reopened Świętoszek Tartuffe has retained its artsy heritage under its new owners, and been fully renovated by the renowned stage designers Marcin and Mateusz Stajewski. Returning to the top of Warsaw's culinary ladder, chef Stanisław Nowogródzki brings 30-years of experience to the kitchen: known for his extensive stint at the Marriott, this much awarded chef has blended his enthusiasm for Polish cuisine with his own carefully honed sense of flavor and aesthetics. Of his signatures, look out for pork chop with boletus mushroom and thyme sauce, as well as the restaurant's original-recipe Kajmak cake. Enjoy them in either our vaulted interiors, or outside on our ravishing summer terrace with views of the Wisła! Świętoszek Tartuffe ul. Jezuicka 6/8 Reservations: tel. 730 013 312 swietoszek.pl
eat!
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
SUPER NOODLES
A union of two of Warsaw’s favorite fads, Uki Green presents vegan ramen noodles inside a minimalistic interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. Sparse and spartan, the somewhat stern aesthetic is softened by the busy backdrop: it’s been open a few seconds, but already it’s become the place to be seen tagging yourself. Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchicheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. A pure umami foodgasm, pair your broth with a cute wooden box filled with seasonal vegetable toppings and a crazy colored butterfly pea flower tea before spoiling yourself with a jet black charcoal and coconut ice cream – you won’t regret a thing. Uki Green ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ukigreenramen
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EAT! head to head
Lunapark ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla
THE BATTLE OF THE HEAVYWEIGHTS! Two of Poland’s top names find themselves going head-to-head in the wacky world of Lunapark…
Where
Lunapark – as in, you know, the place that everyone is talking about. Created by the same crew behind the Nocny Market, this open air extravaganza is a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness: last issue, our reviewer described it “the most exciting F&B concept Poland has ever seen,” and there’s been nothing to change our mind. On the contrary, they just keep upping the ante to reach new impossible heights of cool. Entered down a grungy set of cancerous concrete steps, the place unfurls into a trippy world featuring a circus tent, boxing ring, carousel and crazy golf. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. But amid the fun park curiosities and Instagram moments there’s a genuine substance to it all. That’s underscored by a ‘Mini Market’ featuring a comprehensive line-up of stalls knocking out top-quality street food.
Who
In terms of food, the big coup has been the entry of two of Poland’s big heavyweight chefs. On the one hand, you have Aleksander Baron, a rebel cook with an evangelical approach to meat, an obsession with fermentation and a strong interest in historical culinary techniques. One of the biggest names on the domestic stage, his recent departure from the ‘mega restaurant’ that is Zoni was bombshell news that was greeted with a sob. News that he’s returned to front his own ‘temporary gastronomic object’ has been one of
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(Thurs 6 p.m. to 3 a.m., Fri 6 p.m. to 4 a.m., Sat 2 p.m. to 4 a.m., Sun 2 p.m. till midnight )
the highlights of the summer. And then you have Joseph Seeletso, a London-trained Botswanan chef that’s cooked for, among others, Michael Jackson, Bill Gates and the King and Queen of Sweden. For years he’s been a familiar face on Polish television, appearing both as a juror on Top Chef and on an almost daily basis on Dzien Dobry TV. More associated with Scandinavian-style cuisine and fine dining, his debut at Lunapark has sent ripples through the city. What
Baron’s (Baron - The Family) stand is one big sausage party with a brief menu that presents five or so epic bangers to pick from – hand produced with a real love for product, find them pimped up with the addition of ginger, paprika and other flights of fancy. Accompanied by a slap of Polish kimchi and an array of homemade sauces, they’re a well-rounded reimagining of an otherwise prosaic sounding classic. If you weren’t so full you’d go back for more – in fact, many do regardless. Seeletso (Afro Chef Street Food), meanwhile, eschews his classical gastro background to celebrate his roots with an African street food menu based around deliciously chewy flatbreads cascading with slow-cooked beef and peri peri sauce; chicken with passionfruit and thyme; and chicken curry with mango relish. These aren’t just good, they’re bloody well fantastic.
And The Winner Is…
You! We’re seeing some good street food stands emerge in Poland, but nothing quite at the level that these two have hit. Even better, the initial suspicion that this is a stop gap summer hobby for two chefs with ‘nothing better to do’ is immediately shown as false. Seeing them in action, you get the sense of two chefs dying to get their hands dirty and fight on the frontline. Natural crowd pleasers, it’s a thrill to see them up close and personal and feeding off the energy that seeps from the public. Real, true and passionate about their cause, both deserve credit for what they have done.
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ALE WINO
TALK OF THE TERRACES
With the mercury rising, the Insider tracks down its top secret gardens and restaurant terraces…
Ale Wino
ul. Mokotowska 48 At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful courtyard sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so.
Belvedere
ul. Agrykoli 1 Exotic botanical flourishes such as a one-hundred-year-old palm and elaborate latticework are the norm in Belvedere, an Imperial Age orangery
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set amid the immaculate lawns of Łazienki Park. An apex is reached each summer when diners chow down on posh food whilst preening peacocks strut with aloofness between the outdoor tables.
Amber Room
Al. Ujazdowskie 13 Hushed, lavish, cultured and classy, the wedding cake palace housing Amber Room is a veritable maze of extravagant rooms. The gorgeous interiors of this restored manor are rivaled only by a serene garden terrace in the front, and a sunken patio in the back that feels private and shielded from both the elements and the public.
PHOTOGRAPH BY KRZYSZTOF KOZANOWSKI
EAT! Outdoor dining roundup
Fest Port Czerniakowski
ul. Zaruskiego 8 Set inside a wooden lodge down a curling road flanked by water and woodland, there’s something about Fest that feels emotive and correct. It’s not a place of flash and fancy, it’s a place that’s honest, escapist and natural in its charm. Just by being here, you feel alive and well. A picture of unexpected pastoral bliss, it’s the next best thing to a weekend in the działka.
Kanapa
ul. Narbutta 10 The former private residence of the Syrian ambassador, this grand pre-war villa is the epitome of elegance. Secluded and still, the back garden is a riot of flowers and shrubs and a glorious spot for whispered trysts. The upscale Ukrainian food and seasonal grill slots in naturally with the surrounds.
air hitting new heights in the evening once the candles are lit. Shaded by the trees that loom overhead, it’s a space that feels cool, casual and confidently affluent.
Shoku
ul. Karolkowa 30 The superb pan-Asian food is bettered only by a 500 sq/m back lawn that feels almost impossibly pristine. Scattered with deckchairs, beanbags and blankets, the overriding impression is of being at a well-planned picnic. Helping everyone’s enjoyment
are seasonally adjusted cocktails of genuine merit.
Eden
ul. Jakubowska 16 Adjoining a masterpiece of modernist architectural design, this discreet townhouse garden feels intriguing and discreet, with its crowning glory provided by an all-year greenhouse cluttered with herbs and pot plants. Coincide your visit with a big concert at the nearby National Stadium and you’ll get the added bonus of eavesdropping on a gig.
Szóstka
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 For an experience that’s head and shoulders above the rest – quite literally – head to Szóstka, the sixth floor fine dining restaurant of the Hotel Warszawa. Long and narrow, the outdoor terrace is ideal for sunset moments with a cocktail in hand. Being here as the sun switches to shades of scarlet is a moment to be savored.
Stixx
Pl. Europejska 4A Filled with winding walkways, pinches of greenery and fancy water features, Pl. Europejski has integrated seamlessly into the fabric of the city – but it would all feel incomplete without the presence of Stixx. With the roof rolled back on the all-weather terrace, and the Spire twinkling above, it’s a venue that feels completely international – a sensation amplified by the slick interior and cosmopolitan crowd.
Flaming & Co.
ul. Chopina 5 Seemingly inspired by a Long Island shoot for Hilfiger, Flaming has long been hailed as one of Warsaw’s summer heroes. Well-spaced tables separated by picket-fenced greenery allow for privacy, with the sophisticated
FEST
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YOU MELT MY HEART!
What did the Insider do this summer? We ate every ice cream that Warsaw had to offer. From a choice running into the zillions, the following are the ones that had it licked…
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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA
EAT! ice cream roundup
Frank Warszawa
ul. Polna 18/20 Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both.
FuroSzron
No fixed location With no fixed abode, you’ll need to track the movements of this mobile pop-up via a bit of Facebook stalking. Your diligence is rewarded with Thai-style shaved ice drinks produced courtesy of a strange mechanical machine – the tastes will make your eyes pop out!
Jednorożec
Pallone
ul. Brzeska 29/31 & Lunapark Made to Italian recipes reputed to be 160-years old (with some personal magic thrown in to boot), Pallone pride themselves on quality ingredients: chocolate from Belgian and Colombia, citrus fruits from Sicily, and the finest cream and milk you’ll find in Poland. There’s nothing too wacky about the flavor choice but the tastes will punch you out. Wow!!!
Roszki
ul. Narbutta 38 What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? Amid a hugely competitive field, the wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and loving hand of Jednorożec mark them a notch above their immediate competitors.
ul. Andersa 37 Although it looks rather budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolatebased ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders.
Limoni Canteri 1952
Thai Ice
Various locations Founded by Giacomo Canteri – who was inspired by the discovery of his grandmother’s gelato recipes in the attic – Limoni have grown to become perhaps the most high profile of Warsaw’s gelato vendors. Highly seasonal tastes are complimented by the appearance of oddities that, in the past, have included, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they sell special dog-friendly ice cream!
Malinova
Al. Niepodłegości 130 Opened in 2001, Malinova is positively ancient by local Warsaw standards. Tapping into new fads, flavors have become increasingly diverse, though it’s the standard classics that are often the best – the strawberry is a little scoop of heaven in a cone.
Nitro Lody
ul. Zwycięzców 11 Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re watching some NASA sponsored
experiment. Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such greatness.
ul. Francuska 14 Thai Ice taps into the wider global trend for rolled ice cream served in paper cups with jolly toppings of sprinkles, candy, chocolate and fruit. It’s pure food porn in its rainbow-colored, dazzling best. On a hot day waiting times reach preposterous proportions – yet absolutely no-one turns back.
Vegestacja
THE INSIDER CHAMP!
Ice Pot finished last year (really, we were still visiting them in the middle of December!) as the Insider’s favorite scoop – this year, they’ve only gotten better. Produced by a true enthusiast, the seasonal flavors and occasionally wacky experiments (mulled wine, apple pie, etc.) never score less than a perfect ten. And if the tastes are a different level, then the service is as well. News that they’ve expanded their operations to include a bricks and mortar venue in Stegny gives a new meaning to life.
Ice Pot
Hala Gwardii & ul. Soczi 6b
ul. Poznańska 26 Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. Top marks to sugar-free creations such as the mango lass or raspberry & cardamom.
Ulica Baśniowa
Al. Wojska Polskiego 41 The choice isn’t just vast, it’s sugar-free thanks to their commitment to using natural stevia instead. Few leave with anything but rave reviews, and their cause is furthered by an equally impressive choice of cakes and tarts. It’s a Żoliborz legend – and rightfully so. warsawinsider.pl
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partner interview
RING THE CHANGES
Responsible for Cava's rebranding, Tadeusz Muller speaks about transformation of this legend...
WI: So what’s changed at Cava? TM: Basically, we’ve prepared a new concept based around contemporary, jazzy food. That was by no means an easy undertaking – Cava was one of the first legitimate coffee venues in Poland (we’ve been going since 2001!), so we really had to be careful to take on board the opinions of our guests.
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After dialogue with our regulars we soon realized that people have different habits depending on the time of day. We also realized we had to go for something that was convenient but also tasty, healthy and chic. Honestly, I’m delighted with the results: what we’ve developed is a smart causal menu with a Mediterranean twist.
To name some examples, we now offer nutritious bowls with three different toppings, among them a vegan option featuring tofu served in the style of minced meat. We’re also really proud of our homemade brioche which is served for breakfast. It’s also available as a ‘bugeritos’ option with a filling of either beef or vegan Naturli patties (a special Dutch blend involving green peas and smart proteins). We haven’t overlooked dessert, either. I’d recommend one of our three tiramisus (raspberry & rose, matcha or classic coffee), or our apple pie – it’s served in a jar with cream and Polish sea buckthorn berries. What influenced the changes to the menu? The principal inspiration has been the shift towards healthy living – we always bake instead of fry, and that even applies to dishes such as shrimps with avocado or our sushi rice balls. We love the Mediterranean so there’s a fair few Spanish influences as well, for instance patatas bravas or gourmet tins of calamari or octopus. On top of that, we serve pizzas on ultra-thin dough – if you ask for my favorite then that’s the Broccoli BBQ. Have you forgotten the coffee angle? No! Drinking coffee ‘out’ is a growing trend in Poland and, because of this, expectations from customers have grown as a result. The public wants high quality coffee with an organic background. We’ve met that demand head on with premium coffees such as Kopi Luwak and Jamaican Blue Mountain – and they taste even better alongside our breakfasts or desserts! Who is Cava aimed at? People who enjoy the concept of ‘cooliving’ in a third space – those that expect coffee to be the best and their food to be vibrant. We’re pretty unique in that you can spend the whole day with us: start the day on the couch with breakfast and coffee, then move on to a brunch or a lunch before ending at the cocktail bar with chillout tunes in the back. We’re versatile and that’s what makes us so popular. Cava ul. Nowy Świat 30, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy, 2nd floor) cava.pl
FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS SEN is a place of many senses. An environment where food, drinks, music blend together as one. R ES E RVAT I O N S : t e l. + 4 8 8 8 3 0 2 5 0 2 5 re s e r va t i o ns@ se nwa rsa w. p l W ioś lars ka 6 | 0 0 - 4 11 Wa r s a w
senwars a w. p l |
/S E N wa rsa w |
/ S E N _ wa r s a w
BR O OK LY N B U R G E R S & S T E AK S T R U E A M E R I C A N F O O D, DRINKS AND VIBES
Brooklyn Burgers & Steaks is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous s c r e e n s . Yo u t h i n k b u r g e r s a n d s t e a k s – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.
JA N A PA W Ł A I I 1 8 00-116 WARSAW B R O O K LY N B W. E U /BROOKLYNRESTAURANTANDBAR /BROOKLYN_BURGERSNSTEAKS
Sp Par ot tne lig r ht
SEA YOU THERE!
Kanapa invites seafood lovers to visit us each weekend to enjoy our Festival of Lobster, Shrimp & Oysters…
T
aking place in our beautiful garden, order delicacies as prepared by chef Dima Babak and his team: for example, half a lobster with fries, tomatoes and aioli sauce; crab meat burger with shrimps, fries and tomatoes; three grilled shrimps with French fries and aioli sauce; or octopus with roast potatoes and a rich mango sauce (all priced at zł. 69). We also offer seafood sets comprising of lobster, three shrimps, octopus, fries, Bogracz and aioli sauce for zł. 189. Oysters served with lemon are also available individually for zł. 9 or in sets of six (zł. 54) or twelve (zł. 99). To go alongside we’ve dishes, we’ve also got a wonderful choice of red and sparkling white wine, all of which can be enjoyed in the shade of the cherry trees that grow in our private garden. Known for its elegant and contemporary interpretation of Ukrainian cuisine, Kanapa’s menu includes best-sellers such as black dumplings with pike perch; baked eggplant with smoked pepper; liver and duck pate with carrot mousse; and beetroot soup with crayfish and blueberry dumplings. Kanapa Narbutta 10, borysov.com.ua
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EAT! Listings
By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.
american 50 bakeries 50 balkan 50 chinese 50 comfort & street food 50 desserts 52 fine dining 53 food halls & happenings 50 french 55 georgian 56 greek & turkish 56 hungarian 57 indian 57 indonesian 58 international 58 italian 63 japanese 64 korean 66 latin & spanish 66 mexican 67 middle eastern 67 pacific 68 polish 68 scandinavian 73 seafood 73 specialty food shops 73 steak houses 74 thai 76 ukrainian 76 vegan 75 vietnamese 76
american Brooklyn Burgers & Steaks Firmly ensconced in the ‘legendary’ category, what began as a burger bar has – over the years – diversified to feature tacos, steaks, hot dogs and pizzas.
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For something that will make the table wobble, order ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’, an 800g platter that lands with a thud. Fun, upbeat and casual, this market leader continues to turn out some the best burgers in the biz. (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), brooklynbw.eu Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com
bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Gryzbowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com
experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl
chinese
Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com
SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl
Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar
balkan
comfort food
Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan
Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers
Breakfast | Lunch | A la carte | Family weekends | Celebrations: baptisms, communions, birthdays, wedding dinners | Corporate meetings | Events
Welcome First Floor Restaurant, 31 Kasprzaka Street, 01-234 Warsaw (in the building of Varsovia Apartaments), + 48 22 255 99 50 www.firstfloorrest.pl
EAT! Listings
H A L A G WA R D I I
FOOD HALLS & HAPPENINGS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues… Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Lunapark Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that
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Warsaw’s ever seen. Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. For all the prowling stilt walkers and street performers, the key attraction is the Mini Market, a superb line-up of ethnic food stalls. The African street food by Botswanan celebrity chef Joseph Seeletso is the Insider’s highlight. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla Nocny Market This weekend market brings together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands on a disused train platform illuminated with neon. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market is the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. A place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights, the essence of Warsaw lurks within. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl
GURU REDEFINES
MODERN INDIAN CUISINE
Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.
Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604
EAT! Listings of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburgstyle hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual
laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul. Francuska 1, restauracjaefes.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings
that pair well with the PRL look of this high-ceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl
desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down
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EAT! Listings and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojitoflavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus
Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter
that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7
fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl
‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’
Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere. com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert
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Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl
Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected
lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl
PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam. com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com
EAT! Listings Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy.
Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. Over summer, we loved the elegant tomato-based starter, the prime beef rib served as a main, and the sorrel and mint parfait that arrived at the end. In this case, the rave reports seem fully justified. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl
french
L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely
T he Amber Room offers exquisite à la carte dishes that change seasonally and which are accompanied by a magnificent selection of wines handpicked by a sommelier. The restaurant also offers a tasting menu and a varied lunch menu. In summer, the chef proposes excellent grilled meats and vegetarian options whilst the terrace, set overlooking Ujazdowski Park, is perfect for idling on long, sunny days that can be enjoyed along with delicious cocktails served in the Amber Room's bar. Amber Room Restaurant Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl
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EAT! Listings one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. Reopened after a sabbatical, Leon’s return is cause for celebration. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5
georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re
authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of
primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, rusiko.pl
greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho. com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired
Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl
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EAT! Listings but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy and comes with a spot of plates smashing at the weekend. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini
hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl
indian
only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl
Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the
Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl
Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl
Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL
HOŻA 54
ŻEROMSKIEGO 81
KONDRATOWICZA 59
536 443 771
508 870 774
789 444 921
(Śródmieście)
(Stare Bielany)
(Targówek)
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EAT! Listings friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44 Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl
Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny,
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indonesian Gado Gado Previously known as Warung Jakarta, the menu here has a street food edge with secret magic recipes extending to Nasi Goreng and a lively chicken Rendeng. Accessible to all levels of income, it’s become one of the true unsung glories of ethnic Warsaw. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34
international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace
that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes,
EAT! Listings thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty
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goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often
magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl
GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy
BISTRO&DELI
Konstancin, Warszawska 60
SMACZNe -Ego warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl
Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jackof-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Lente Bright, sunny and informal, Lente’s style lifts spirits immediately on entry. Variety is big here, with the menu including shakshuka bowls, burrata, hummus and even a ‘Gibraltar breakfast’ (yep, a British fry-up!). (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49
Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. The rooftop terrace is always a winner. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served
We could talk about food for hours!
Buying our produce from local markets, Antresola is a collection of Polish stories that reveal the flavors of our childhood and our love for food: whether it’s goose pate, duck in cherry sauce with dogwood tincture, or meringue with salted caramel and red wine jelly, Antresola is where the tastes of regional Poland come alive once again. For food from the manor houses of Poland to its country cottages, visit Antresola to fall in love with the taste our nation.
ul. Wronia 45 (lok u2) tel. 22 415 25 25, www.antresola.eu
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EAT! Listings with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry
and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful
combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9
Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring
Enjoy our patio with friends or for a quiet dinner for two at two of our locations
Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299
Le Cedre 84
(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999
Le Cedre 61
(opposite the zoo, no outdoor patio) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166
www.lecedre.pl
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EAT! Listings ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polishedlooking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. (D5) ul. Wiertnicza 96, pinklobster.pl Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one
of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by
Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna Warszawski Sznyt Sure the Old Town looks cute, but that doesn’t mean it can cook. Behind the frilly front rooms of the district’s restaurants lie kitchens of catastrophic reputation – they don’t exist to make you feel good, they’re there to rob you of your money. But rules have exceptions and in Old Town’s case that means Warszawski Sznyt. Outstanding Nowy Polski cuisine presented in prettified form, as well as a pan European menu bristling with regional specialties inside an interior that’s sleek, stylish and contemporary. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself. So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists: the kind of dish
Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw
ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl
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EAT! Listings you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the daily-changing tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. And impressed you will be. Outgoing chef Aleksander Baron is a tough act to follow, but incoming Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow. His menu promises a departure from Baron’s ‘modernized heritage cuisine’, and instead looks set to present a more rounded, international gastronomic view. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today
italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl
Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski to the fore, with the highly-rated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed
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brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron
and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego
japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty
EAT! Listings bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54
the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4
Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com
Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl
Fat Buddha Huge in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an oversized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit,
Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and
quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is
Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms. Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com
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EAT! Listings done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl
korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not
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everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.
Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25
latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl
Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.
EAT! Listings A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl
mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior
heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54
middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. Full report soon. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl
MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE
Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl
Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl
OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI
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EAT! Listings Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl
Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in
traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9 Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth. One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza
pacific Aroha Bowls Declared by The Guardian as the ‘must-have snack’ of 2017, the cult of poke is finally finding a niche in Warsaw. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served in a bowl of rice and then topped with
vibrantly colored fruit, veg and spices. Warning: highly addictive. ul. Puławska 246/5, aroha.pl
polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, bazyliszek.waw.pl Bazar Kocha Mimicking the look of a contemporary farmers’ market, awnings cover the counter at Bazar Kocha and pickled produce lines the shelves – what you see on them is available to buy. Loyal to the concept of terroir, the menu makes a strong case for contemporary Polish cuisine with a seasonally-adjusted choice that involves mutton dumplings; smoked eggplant risotto; or beef cheeks with a silky lovage mousse. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted
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EAT! Listings elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Brawo Bis Widely recognized from his work presenting the domestic version of Hell’s Kitchen, Michał Brys returns to the kitchen with a new venture, an informal-style restaurant with battleship colors offset by cabaret posters – a busy cultural program is in the works, and so too a menu that will seek to reprise the pre-war tastes of Warsaw. In the meantime, find a small but excellent array of dishes that make a big deal of the chef’s big passion: baking! Sample dishes so far include beef cheeks and chimichurri piled on a wheel of wild yeast cake. Simple but brilliant. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl
Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The
ul. Burakowska 9 Call 888 785 848 warsawinsider.pl
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Traditional Polish Cuisine,
Ĺťurek
(traditional sour rye soup)
Golonka
(roast pork knuckle)
Placki Ziemniaczane
(potato pancake with gulash)
We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings
but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9
EAT! Listings food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in
fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Lokalna Bistronomia The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. There’s atmosphere, as well, with a décor that feels lively and modern but includes some requisite old school neon and other enjoyable retro touches. ul. Nieporęcka 6, lokalnabistronomia.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard
garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty avereage food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul. Podwale 25, podwale25.pl Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets. Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl
POKÉ BOWLS WITH LOVE Puławska 246/5 facebook.com/arohabowl instagram.com/arohabowl
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Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw
EAT! Listings tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. It can be argued, however, that the food never quite hits the heights that the atmosphere warrants. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27, ufukiera.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at
Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar
Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl
scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl
seafood
L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl
specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl warsawinsider.pl
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EAT! Listings Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Hala Mirowska As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers and hard-to-find herbs; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna
at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Noisy and unkempt, chaotic and crammed, it’s a sensory overload that sends volts through the foodie. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram. nativeingredients
steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf.
A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro
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Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5 Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl
EAT! Listings
VEGAN Officially ranked the 7th most vegan-friendly city in the world, Warsaw’s plant-based scene continues to expand at a rate that feels close to exponential – during the last roll-call, there were 161 restaurants to pick from! Sensibly, we’ve whittled that choice to a more digestible figure… Eden This historic, modernist villa features a secret courtyard garden complete with a magnificent greenhouse at its center. Inside, meanwhile, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com
Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/momencik Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. As for the mushroom burger: wow. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul. Radna 14, vegdeli.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – all of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. Eek! But despite this double-headed challenge, Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa, a fact that’s led to the opening of a new join in Mokotów. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. ul. Finlandzka 12A & ul. Kazimierzowska 22, fb.com/veganramenshop Vege Małpa A raw, hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: composed of vegan bacon, roasted onions, pickles and a bun that’s blacker than midnight, it’s the final word in junky pleasure. ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg
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EAT! Listings Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl
thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50
flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, whythai.pl
ukrainian San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively
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Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa.restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest
vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Tran Tran It looks promising enough, with dark woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, look no further than the beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. It’s a dish of simple clarity and vibrant freshness. Faithful in their presentation of Vietnam, Tran Tran’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category. (E5) ul. Wilcza 20, fb.com/ restauracjatrantran Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl
EAT! Listings
DRINK!
RAISING THE BAR
Is it too early to call favorites? Nah, not at all. When winter comes, and the Insider sits fire-side to name its hottest openings of 2019, you can bet your last cent that Foton will be there. It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Mexican street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Dynamic as the cocktails are, there’s something else at play that makes it so special – atmosphere. You’re somewhere cool, but it doesn’t matter if you are or not. Everyone is welcome and they all get along – even more so when the clock reaches late. Foton ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar
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drink! Outdoor roundup
P R Z YS TA Ń N O WA FA L A
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
For the Insider’s top choices for al fresco drinking, look no further than the following stars…
Bar Studio
Pl. Defilad 1 The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares.
Beirut & Kraken
ul. Poznańska 12 With the floor-to-ceiling windows thrown open, there’s an organic connection between the inside and outside of this must-visit duo. The pavement terrace is narrow as hell, but the number of people spilling into the road generates a street party vibe
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that’s delicious to taste. Visit midnight on Friday and you’ll see what we mean.
Biała
ul. Francuska 2 Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa. It’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly.
Hala Koszyki
ul. Koszykowa 63 If, at all other times, the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, then the warmer weather signals a mass migration to the square outside. Nowhere else feels quite so international. Extra points go to the pretty ace Pimm’s that’s available inside.
Cuda Na Kiju
ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ.
Loreta
ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) There aren’t many places the Insider prefers to be this August than on the top floor of the Puro cradling a cocktail in its paws. The funky, eclectic décor comprises of bubblegum pink neon signage, bristling greenery and low-slung seating and is complimented by inventive cocktails often ad-libbed by the staff.
Maryensztadt Craft Beer
ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque.
Na Lato
ul. Rozbrat 44 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things that sum up the spirit of Powiśle. The sprawling, billiard green lawn outside takes on the feel of a well-to-do garden party.
Przystań Nowa Fala
Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona Playing more than a bit part role in the Wisła’s gentrification is Przystań, a sleek moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with renegade beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd convening under the stars.
H A L A KO S Z Y K I
C U DA N A K I J U
Wozownia
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of eyespinning glamor pusses.
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drink! Review bars & pubs
Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61
2Koła Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado
Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl
Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl
Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns
and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl
Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49
Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd says much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl
A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze. Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl
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Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de
drink! Listings facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl
Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, soak in the vibe as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl
Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl
Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Come summer, when the roof rolls back from the all-weather terrace, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of the after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl
Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27
Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights.
W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected.
(D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl
(F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl
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Warszawa Powiśle
The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl
Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10
cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze. com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/ coffeedeskwilcza
Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60
drink! Listings Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Al.
Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, sat shaded from the sun by dozens of brollies that dangle overhead. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by French crepes served from a combi van parked outside. Inside, it’s cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic. (H4) ul.
Zjednoczenia 46
Francuska 30
Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stop-off for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/
Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store, it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. In summer, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy. ul.
dobrocafe
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FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6
Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul. Fabryc-
for.rest Originating as a store selling cool ceramics and lavish green succulents, the number of dawdling customers meant that adding coffee to the offer was a natural step. Wouldn’t you know it, people loved it even more. Sourcing a diverse range of coffee from the locally-based Java roasters, this beautiful indoor jungle is a true one-off. ul. Nabielaka 8/10 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee
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zna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl
Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek
Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retrostyled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18
Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a
Drink! Listings busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl
Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48
Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day
success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej
Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10
Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe
U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3
clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons
A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.
Być Może
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BAR CRAWLS Mazowiecki Few streets encapsulate the boom and bust nature of Warsaw’s after dark scene better than Mazowiecka. Having represented the pinnacle of the city’s social life for much of the Naughty Noughties, a dramatic lull followed. Now, it’s back and better than before! Rekindling the spirit of the glory years, find a new generation of glamor pusses and playboys wiggling their ’tings in bar-club crossovers such as Ritual and Fat Buddha. High rollers should start their evening at the bar of the Hotel Warszawa just across the road. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the fragrant passageway at Nowy Świat 26. Nowogrodzka At press time Warsaw could boast 50-odd multitap bars, a phenomenal accomplishment given that figure stood at zilch back in 2011. While the craft beer revolution has penetrated even the darkest, most philistine suburbs, its beating heart thuds the loudest down on Nowogrodzka – no-one will bat an eyelid should you begin scribbling notes about the latest double hopped seaweed gose. The presence of Nowina wine bar, the acclaimed Weles cocktail bar, not to mention a couple of clubs around the corner, add wider appeal. Poznańska & Surrounds Warsaw’s south central pre-war fragment is flushed with options, with the bulk of the action radiating outwards from the center of Poznańska. Beirut is where the radar beeps the loudest, but the truth is no matter what direction you go, you’ll find somewhere to suit.
looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com
Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl
No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego
Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this twolevel space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com
Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6
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Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com
Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl
The View Because who doesn’t love partying under palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl
cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57
Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy
Drink! Listings for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/
summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39
is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience.
BackRoomWarsaw
Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl
(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl
Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl
Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that
Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor
El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl
Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative,
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drink! Listings Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie
and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 La Sirena Though known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul. Piękna 54
Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw
slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl
Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of T charismatic gatehouse you’d read about R C P T M position yourself in front of in Dickens, W theCupstairs fireplace for a celebratory ≈ W and C cigar a glass of something tall and ≈ C Ccocktails are in a class of lovely: the ≈ T their own and specifically customized ≈ P E for the season. Spooling, silent Bond ≈ L S films, regular burlesque shows and random monkey figures add P B decorative B an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) HE MOST
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Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find
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Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that
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Despite our regular monthly mag first hitting kiosks in 1996, it was another two years before the decision was taken to round up the best Warsaw offered. This wasn’t due to an editorial oversight, rather because back in those days there just wasn’t much to honor: a case in point? Thumbing through that first Best of Warsaw edition, shout-outs went to “someone’s grandmother” (for Best Pierogi), and a club called Planeta on account of having a rottweiler called Tyson guarding the door. Skip forward a few years, and by 2004 the city had developed to the stage where our winners were winning because they offered something good. Well, why not throw a party to celebrate reasoned our publisher. That tradition has carried to this day, with our fifteenth gala evening proving the most successful yet. Yep, three day hangovers really can happen. To our sponsors, patrons, guests and winners, we can but say thank you.
Drink! Listings mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul.
between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska
Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1
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The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2)
Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.
ul. Wierzbowa 11
(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl
Warmut Woda Ognista Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a
Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers glinting behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com
craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for
POLISH VODKA MUSEUM
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drink! Listings quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A
Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16
Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow
Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl
Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s
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favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most
make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz.
Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl
(E3) ul. Solec 46A
Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul.
Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie. Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4
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Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.
Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/ MikkellerBarWarsaw
(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl
Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25
Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that
Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10
for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure
Drink! Listings atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl
live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of this spot generates an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl
Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos
Niebo Noted for the diversity of its events program, Niebo does it all: from comedy nights to vintage markets via performances from cult acts such as Neneh Cherry and Black Sun Empire. The gritty look complements the artsy, off-radar vib.
Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl
vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl
Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl
WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland. Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl.
Mielżyński Wine Bar Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.
Konesera 1
Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4,
wine bars Ale Wino! Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl
(D4) ul. Nowy Świat 21, fb.com/niebo
Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to
Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl
Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. In summer, the canopied terrace is ideal for pre-theater drinks or date night with the partner. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl
(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl
nowina.waw.pl
Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22 Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl warsawinsider.pl
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do!
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA
LAST CHANCE
PAINT, ALSO KNOWN AS BLOOD
Promoted, so they say, “as the first large-scale international exhibition devoted to women whose painting practice re-evaluates stereotypes concerning submission and domination,” the Museum On The Vistula’s latest exhibition borrows its title from a book authored by the hunter, Zenon Kruczyński. But rather than, as expected, telling a tale of subjugation, the featured artists instead present an “affirmative version of womanhood by endowing their bodies with agency, autonomy and power of self-determination.” >>>
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Museum On The Vistula ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl
According to the curator, Natalia Sielewicz, “the eponymous paint becomes a visceral, sticky matter that leads us towards the point where all meanings collapse. It blurs the categories of power and objectification, thus provoking the question of when do we look, and when do we look away?” Organized with the intention of representing the intensity of external and internal worlds this is an exhibition that, in the words of Agata Bielik-Robson, “simultaneously frightens, overwhelms, takes one’s breath away, but also summons, demands, interpellates.” You’ve got until August 11th to see for yourself.
After a seemingly never-ending loop of delays work on the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw is in full swing after it was announced that Warbud had been chosen to act as the general contractor. Designed by the NYC studio Thomas Phifer and Partners, the museum’s grounds will cover an area of 20,000 sq/m and feature exhibition galleries, a cinema, auditorium and considerable spaces for public events and activities. When? Maybe ‘coming soon-ish’ would be more fitting: the timeline envisions a 42-month process, but this being Poland you’d do well to expect the unexpected…
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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE NAC
Coming Soon!
back story
WARSAW UPRISING: 1944
August 1st marks the 75th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, a battle that would come to define the spirit and soul of the Polish capital…
THE BACK STORY
Viewed as a melting pot of decadence, a hotbed of dissent, a cradle of European Jewry and a symbol of Polish independence, no other city that invited as much disdain from the Nazis as Warsaw. From the very outset, the occupation set a new benchmark in tyranny with Polish freedom brutally suppressed. Denied the most basic rights, the Poles responded by forming Europe’s largest underground movement. Commonly believed to number around 400,000 members, the Home Army (AK) was the largest of these illicit organizations. Taking part in numerous acts of sabotage, this clandestine military movement hit global headlines when, on August 1st, 1944, they launched their biggest operation to date: the Warsaw Uprising. Aiming to liberate the town in time for the imminent Soviet arrival, their cause was boosted by promises of Allied aid as well as the knowledge that German units had already began withdrawing from the city. Incensed by this act of Polish insolence, the Nazis reacted with savage fury and what the Poles had hoped would be a swift campaign descended into a 63-day bloodbath that claimed 250,000 lives. With all hope exhausted, Warsaw’s eventual capitulation was met with orders for the population to be exiled and the city flattened. Poland would never be the same again.
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DO! Museums
FAMOUS FIVE
Offering a well-rounded view of Warsaw’s past and present, the following museums and cultural institutions have established themselves as the city’s (and even the nation’s) essential must-sees.
THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
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AND GET
Created in conjunction with the Warsaw Rising Museum, jazz legend Michał Urbaniak’s latest album, From Warsaw With Love, is a personalized tribute to the battle and offers a musical journey dedicated “to those who are gone and those who still are.” Featuring cameos from Marcus Miller, David Gilmore and Lenny White, the album was released at the end of July as part of the 75th anniversary commemorations.
DO! Museums
FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM
POLIN
The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum
Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl
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PAW I A K
MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl
Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl
Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,
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CHOPIN MUSEUM
a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl
Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl
Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl
Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl
Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl
Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl
Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-
nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl
Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com
Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils. The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com
DO! Museums Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa
detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3,
50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl
stacjamuzeum.pl
Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl
Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26
The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl
Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully
EXPERIENCES Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie
them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl
World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com
GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S
51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl
Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl
Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl
Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch
Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl
CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such
as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds. Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com
National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl
The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org
Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl
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Summer School
DO! Listings
Join us!
Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 8th to August 9th English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special vistors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much, much more!
preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.
The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
Accepting applications for children aged 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary program) Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind Sielecka 52) To join summer school program please contact: +48 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl
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The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,
Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843
DO! Listings 9370, tep.edu.pl
Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl
Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu
Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl
Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located
in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl
Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl
The pursuit
of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.
www.thebritishschool.pl
Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings schools
further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.
American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For
Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org
The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a
purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.
The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl
BACK TO SCHOOL ALL LOCATIONS September 2 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.
www.tep.edu.pl
696 904 687
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl
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DO! Listings The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl
The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotรณw this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.
International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Beล ska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl
International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual
Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org
monnet international school
PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN
IB World School no 001483
on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N
Education for a better world
Belwederska 6a, Warsaw
www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl
Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,
with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl
Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl
books Atticus You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.
maturamiedzynarodowa.pl
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl
Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum
Czuły Barbarzyńca A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polishlanguage choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl
It's Time to Learn Polish
Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7,
kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508
Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10, Moda Na Czytanie ul. Bracka 25 Some brilliant Warsawfocused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range
of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history.
104 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.
children shops Baby D’Oro Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories. ul. Długa 8/14 Endo Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. endo.pl Kopytko Mamuta Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming. ul. BoyaŻeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl
beczmiana.pl
bullerbyn.com.pl
Polish for Foreigners
Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts.
Lullaby Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag. Multiple locations, lullaby.pl
Muppetshop An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers.. ul. Kazimierzowska 43E, muppetshop.pl
Smyk Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school! Multiple stores, smyk.pl
DO! Listings health & beauty golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. ul. Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl
First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. ul. Vogla 19, golfparkspoland.pl
gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-theart gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl
and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel),
Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55
ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl
spas & salons
Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa
Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13
56, thelittlegym.pl
RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl
hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl
creamy.pl
Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48
Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl
Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl
Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton
Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw),
La Perla Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl
La Plata Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage among others. ul. Wielicka 42, aplata-spa.pl
Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl
ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM
Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings PARDON MY FRENCH
manicure pedicure
Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl
sport Axe Nation The capital’s first axe throwing club has thwacked down in Poland and caught the imagination since opening last year. “Bowling is for pussies,” screams their website, and being here, you’ll most likely agree. Ideal for bonding, dating or just burying the hatchet, it’s the very definition of raw, caveman fun. ul. Postępu 5, axenation.com
Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly?? Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com
Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities. Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts. ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl
yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul. Gałczyńskiego Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana Pawła II 61, bikram.pl
Diamond Pilates The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors. ul. Padma Studio A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness. ul.
Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl
Wilcza 32/100, padmastudio.pl
Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12,
shopping
stacjagrawitacja.pl
Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61
Aquapark Wesolandia
Powsińska 106, diamondpilates.pl
106 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl
Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store. com
Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com
fashion
ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl
Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube,
LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’. Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul.
4, astanga.pl
Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał
swimming
Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” And that’s exactly what you’ll find inside this beautiful Saska K. boutique. ul. Paryska 17, cloudmine.pl
Cloudmine Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of
Non’chalant Playing up to the ideals of classic Italian and British style, Non’chalant present an array of accessories aimed at the dapper gentleman: high quality ties, cravats, pocket squares, socks and scarves. ul. Koszykowa 67, nonchalant.pl
Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars,
DO! Listings notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com
Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com
Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.
DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18,
Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82,
Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. ul.
arkadia.com.pl
Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl
Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,
Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com
ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl
home & design
malls & department stores
Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. ul. Hoża St 59/1, rzeczownik.com Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul.
decodialogue.pl
Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl
Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14,
Silly Design Space Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors? Maybe a mug with a cheery croc gnashing his teeth? Or perhaps an owl-shaped salt shaker? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor. ul. Piękna 47,
futureantiques.eu
sillydesign.pl
Green Bells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul. Grzybowska 16/22,
Slou This suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al.
fb.com/greenbells
Zjednoczenia 11, slou.pl
Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl
galeriapolnocna.pl
Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl
Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl
Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl
Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl
Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl
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DO! Listings 5-Star Hotels
8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com
Bellotto
4-Star Hotels
Novotel Warszawa (Airport)
Radisson Blu Sobieski
ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000
Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw
pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl
ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com
Mecure Warszawa Centrum
Bristol Hotel
Marriott
ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl
Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com
Mercure Grand Warszawa
Express Relocations
ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com
ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com
Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)
AGS Warsaw
ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl
H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com
Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com
Moxy Warszawa Praga ul. Ząbkowska 29, moxy-hotels. marriott.com
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel. 22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl
Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com
InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328
ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com
PURO ul. Widok 9, purohotel.pl
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl
Regent Warsaw Hotel
Novotel Warszawa Centrum
ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com
ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com
Interdean International Relocation
Polonia Palace Hotel
ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, interdean.com
Express Relocations ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com
Sheraton Hotel Warszawa
relocation companies
ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl
Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com
Raffles Europejski Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw
3-Star Hotels
Westin
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.
Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl
ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com
Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com
w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl
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108 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
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DO! Guide
THE ESSENTIALS...
Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.
CHOPIN CONCERT I N Ł A Z I E N K I PA R K
THE OLD…
The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious in summer. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.
WWII
Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage
CZAR PRL MUSEUM
Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.
JEWISH WARSAW
Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.
COMMUNISM
A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum
(czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.
MODERN WARSAW
Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike. In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages, and don’t miss the weekend light and sound shows at the Multimedia Fountains between the Wisła and Old Town.
ART
Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl
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Stadion Narodowy
Żaryna
Kulskiego
Chodk iewicza
Biały K amień
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Events For info on these events and more, check: 1944.pl
Remembering The Rising
Set to be a deeply emotive occasion, the city prepares to mark the 75th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising…
C
riticized as a bourgeois rebellion fomented by the capitalist West, for decades the 1944 Warsaw Uprising was consigned to footnote status by the Communist government. The years since the political transformation have seen the balance rightfully redressed to the point that it
112 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2019
has become the city’s central point of reference. Throughout August 1st, there will be a number of ceremonies to commemorate the anniversary of the battle, with the official part kickingoff at 9 a.m. with the laying of wreaths at the monument to Colonel Antoni Chruściel (commander of the Warsaw district) on Filtrowa 68. Though similar such events will take place over the course of the day, for the majority of people all eyes will be looking towards 5 p.m. It’s then that Warsaw will grind to a universal standstill to remember W-Hour, the time that the Uprising broke out. A profoundly moving occasion, it was captured poignantly in the 2012 viral YouTube video titled There Is A City. To honor the moment, Rondo Dmowskiego has become popular with
flare-wielding patriotic types whilst Pl. Zamkowy has found favor with a more liberal audience. Equally worthwhile, a flotilla is set to cruise down the Wisła. Starting at 3.45 p.m., the fleet will begin their journey from Bulwar Karskiego near the Old Town before finishing at Port Czerniakowski. For W-Hour, the boats are scheduled to pause at the point where a boat called the Bajka was sunk by the Germans – to the layman, that’s a little to the south of Most Poniatowskiego. Later in the evening, join thousands of others at Pl. Piłsudskiego at 8 p.m. to sing hymns banned during the occupation. Marked by its electrifying atmosphere of pride and defiance, it’s one of the year’s cultural highlights. At the other end of the city, a pyre will be lit at 9 p.m. at the top of the Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego.
SHUTTERSTOCK
COMMEMOR ATION
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