Warsaw Insider September 2019 #277

The Story of the Palm Murals of Warsaw Graveyard of Graffiti Rainbow Retrospective The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

SEPTEMBER 2019

277 09/2019

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

7 News 10 Commercial Art

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

14 Public Art Installations 16 Urbex Fort Bema 18 Murals Insider's Top Picks 24 Interview Nespoon 26 Cover Story The Palm 26 Past Glory The Rainbow

EAT!

31 Review:

Kukułka 32 Review: Zoni

DRINK! 69 Review:

Aura 70 Craft Beer: In The News

DO!

83 Review:

Look Inside 84 Back Story: Warsaw Gallery Weekend 86 Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 1 12 Looking Back: August 2019

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com

nless you belong to that elite band of lucky gits that always appear to be on holiday, September for most means back to reality: work. Fortunately, there are worse places to grind out a living than Warsaw, and that’s never truer than during those dying days of summer when the city commits itself to one last party to remember. It’s certainly not a problem finding one, a point underlined by CNN’s selection of Warsaw as one of the “world’s most brew-centric cities”. For more on that, see p. 70. But while the virtues of Warsaw’s nightlife have been an open secret for quite some time, so too have those of its public art scene. This month, we dedicate this issue to just that, bringing you the inside story behind some of the capital’s true artistic pleasures as well as the places and the people that have transformed it into a vibrant center of alternative art. Please enjoy it, and see ya’ next time.

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on the cover The erection of the palm on Rondo de Gaulle’a was the watershed moment that jumpstarted the city’s eye for public art – given the nature of this issue, it would have remiss to feature anything else on the front of our cover. For more, see p. 26. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

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SEPTEMBER 2019

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ATRIUM PROMENADA

– a great place to shop, meet and spend time together

Atrium Promenada offers a diverse fashion selection, providing a unique combination of brands in all-new flagship stores. Most of the fashion destinations are located in the Fountain Alley. And don’t miss the Republic of Flavors, an F&B area with a great ambience and many popular food concepts. A place of inspiration, shopaholics will find plenty to keep them here before returning to the shops freshly re-energized.

JEWELERY AND COSMETICS In Atrium Promenada find almost thirty jewelrey and cosmetics destinations. APART, PANDORA, SWAROVSKI, W.KRUK, TOUS, MAC, DOUGLAS, SEPHORA, KIEHL’S, L’OCCITANE are all ideal places in which to find perfect gifts for someone special (including yourself!).

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

CAFES AND RESTAURANTS In Atrium Promenada cafes and restaurants are spread across the center. Among them are SPHINX, SUBWAY, COSTA COFFEE, KARMELLO, CARTE D’OR as well as a unique culinary concept by CARREFOUR called ISLAND OF FLAVOURS. Whether you’re after sushi, Italian, coffee or desserts, you won’t be disappointed.

RICH FASHION OFFER The unique interiors of Atrium Promenada provide the perfect frame for the latest fashion collections on show. Internationally recognized brands include MASSIMO DUTTI, GUESS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, IMPERIAL, MARELLA, WEEKEND BY MAXMARA, ELISABETTA FRANCHI, PINKO, LIU JO and the first E-OBUWIE STORE in Warsaw. Lap them up in the stunning Fountain Alley.

REPUBLIC OF FLAVORS SPORT Atrium Promenada is also aimed at sports fans with a wide selection of sporting brands found in the twolevel GO SPORT, as well as outlets of SIZEER, 4F, NEW BALANCE and TIMBERLAND.

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Address: ul. Ostrobramska 75c Tel: +48 22 611 39 52 www.warszawa.promenada.com @AtriumPromenada

Republic of Flavors offers a choice of cuisines from across the world, all of which have been carefully selected so as to perfectly complement each other. The Atrium Promenada food court area brings together a variety of food outlets such as SALAD STORY, BON APETITO, KLOOSKI BISTRO BAR, THAI WOK, BERLIN DÖNER KEBAP, NORTH FISH, MCDONALD'S, BURGER KING, PIZZA HUT EXPRESS, KFC, and STARBUCKS. With a vibe that brings to mind the bistros of Paris and the café scene of New York, it’s a fabulous place in which to chill out.

LEISURE TIME Bathed in natural light, Atrium Promenada invites visitors to take a leisurely stroll across marble floors that lead past high-end brand names, or to take a breath in intimate leisure zones near the majestic main fountain.

@atrium_promenada

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

in the

NEWS

SIGHTSEEING

All Things Great And Small

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw’s Great Synagogue returns in miniature…

eventy-six years after it was first demolished by the Nazis, Warsaw’s Great Synagogue has risen anew – only this time, in miniature form. Unveiled in early August, the 1:25 scale model is the latest addition to the stunning Park Miniatur, and quite possibly the feather in its cap. With many source materials destroyed during the war, its assembly was only possible through the result of painstaking research. Making use of electrics, and featuring a cut-out hole to allow visitors to glimpse inside the gargantuan model, the meticulously constructed work stands alongside other lost Warsaw treasures such Saski Palace, the Summer Theater in Saxon Gardens and the Kronenburg Palace.

Funded by the Progressive Jewish community, the original synagogue was opened on September 26th, 1878, and was designed by the prolific Leandro Marconi. Seating 2,200 people, and touting features such as a Torah Ark carved from Lebanese cedar, it was – at one stage – the largest synagogue in the world. Later used by the Nazis as storage space, it was symbolically blown-up to mark the end of the Jewish Ghetto Uprising. “A fantastic piece of theater,” recalled the German commander, Jurgen Stroop. “I glanced over at my brave officers and men, tired and dirty, silhouetted against the glow of the burning building, and after prolonging the suspense for a moment, I shouted Heil Hitler and pressed the button.” Jewish Warsaw had ceased to exist. >> warsawinsider.pl

News ARCHITECTURE

The Cat With Nine Lives

The never-ending saga of the Czarny Kot Hotel rolls on; a classic example of Gargamelizm – an architectural style unique to post-communist, nouveau riche Poland – the notorious eyesore was born from the capitalist chaos of the nineties. A prime example of the insanity that defined the era, much of it was built illegally, yet for several years the city has proved incapable of seizing it from its owners. Now, hopes are high that a demolition date could be set soon. But while most people are celebrating what appears to be the imminent demise of the Czarny Kot, others are striving to save a landmark that has become almost symbolic of this unique period in Polish history – as such, a new FB group to protect it was launched in August (Czarny Kot Zostaje).

MUSIC

Thirty-two years after first playing in Poland, Metallica returned to Warsaw for a fifth time winning hearts and minds by playing an enthusiastic cover of Czesław Niemen’s epic ode to the Polish capital, Sen o Warszawie. The performance was wildly received, and follows on from the band’s established tradition of playing a cult, local song from the countries that they visit. The positive publicity received by the band reached new levels after it was revealed they had donated over zł. 200,000 made from ticket sales to a Warsaw children’s hospice.

ADVERTISING

The Fast Lane

Seen as a sign of recognition of Poland’s booming luxury car market, Porsche chose Warsaw as the filming location of their latest advert. Featuring two vehicles painted in the red and white of the Polish flag, the oneminute ad follows the cars as they glide their way through empty streets and past iconic landmarks such as the Palace of Culture, Pl. Trzech Krzyży and Świętokrzyski Bridge.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, POLSKA PORSCHE FACEBOOK

Nothing Else Matters

L COMMERICAL ART

The Good Guys Of Wall Art

News that two classic murals dating from the PRL period had been destroyed in July has prompted a fightback led by a frontier-pushing firm specializing in commercial wall paintings…

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

ocated on Targowa 15 in the heart of bluecollar Praga, the pair of murals – one advertising jewelry and the other a photochemistry works – had stood for nearly half a century as a fading tribute to the days of old. A testimony to the graphic design of the era, their removal had been sanctioned by the city’s conservator after assurances had been made by the building’s investor that they would be faithfully repainted once cosmetic works had been carried out on the structure. The public, however, have been outraged, not least because questions have arisen as to how far the investor went in inventorying the paintings – was a drone used to record all the features of the murals? Were paint samples taken? These queries, and more besides, have remained unanswered.

One Warsaw firm hasn’t taken the news lying down. “We listened to what had happened with a heavy heart,” says Bartek Leśniewski of Good Looking Studio. “From the very outset of our commercial activity, we were always great admirers of these works both for their graphic composition and the durability of the paint coatings.” In a show of solidarity, Good Looking Studio chose to register their bewilderment by paying homage to the lost murals and painting their own temporary tribute on ul. Zamoyskiego 29. Unveiled in late August, and set to remain until an unspecified date in autumn, the Warsaw-based company has created a collage that combines elements of the disappeared pieces. “In many ways,” says Bartek Leśniewski, co-founder of Good Looking Studio, “we feel

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF GOOD LOOKING STUDIO

IN FRONT

IN FRONT like we’re continuing the work of the artisans that originally created these murals, so this is our own little tribute to the people we see as our predecessors.” A grass-roots initiative with no sponsor, the group’s undertaking has been met with vigorous applause from city activists. But this is not the first time Good Looking Studio have hit the press. Famed for their large format commercial murals the firm, now in their eleventh year of business, have become leaders in their field with a client base ranging from Levi’s and Nike to Pepsi and Pilsner. Credited for reviving the art of hand-painted ads, and celebrated for their radical, groundbreaking solutions, past projects have included giant paintings involving UV paint, video mapping and one painting fitted with a time-sensitive sprinkler system to create a drizzle-like effect for an ad promoting the Netflix serial The Rain. Other commissions have been similarly striking. When hired by PGE, the country’s biggest power company, Good Looking Studio were handed the job of giving the Solina dam in Biesczady a new swagger while keeping in mind the pristine glories of the wider natural environment. Without the tiniest fleck of paint, this they did by using high-pressure water jets to blast off the dirt that had gathered on the dam’s face to form a stunning 4,000 sq/m mural depicting the region’s wildlife. Taking two weeks of work, it became Europe’s biggest ecologically produced mural as well as a standalone tourist attraction that went viral around the globe. It’s a far cry from the early days. Originally working from a tiny, fifth-floor attic (“Essentially we just had two laptops and a desk,” recalls Karol), the company have rapidly expanded to become market

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Catch Chopin While You Can

Titled Forever Young, a 300 sq/m mural has been completed within a stone’s throw from the Chopin Museum on Tamka. A collaboration between Good Looking Studio and illustrator Beata "Barrakuz" Śliwińska, the work replaces a previous ode to the composer that has stood at No. 37 for the last nine years. Though specifically designed by the artist to spread his appeal to a younger audience, the premier of the mural has been tempered by the news that it will only stand “till the end of summer” before being replaced by an as yet undisclosed project. leaders in their niche. “When it comes to outdoor branding you could go for standard billboards or vinyl screens,” notes Karol, “or you could choose something that’s a little more personal like hand-painted art. We do the latter, and it’s been greatly received by both the public and our clients. People appreciate things with an artisanal quality – you can tell that much by the fact that people stop in the streets to watch us at work.” By us, Karol refers to the wall dogs, painters so named because of the safety harnesses they’re attached to.

“Basically,” says Karol, “they’re like leashed dogs, working in whatever weather there is: minus 10 or plus 30. There isn’t room for compromise in the ad industry, so we work 365 days per year to keep as competitive as we can – our team understand that and they’re ready to make those sacrifices. They have to be physically and mentally strong: it’s not a job that anyone can do.” Standing solid in the face of homogeneity, their work is saluted by all those that view it. For more on Good Looking Studio, see: goodlooking.pl

PUBLIC ART

Doin’ It In Public

Forget the gallery, some of Warsaw’s biggest artistic statements are to be found on the streets and squares of the capital city…

Under Wraps!

Take a dilapidated house that’s stood empty for years and one acclaimed artist with a penchant for tin foil: presto, you have Praga’s ‘Tin Foil House’. Dating from 1870, the tenement had stood derelict for years, dragging a street down that had otherwise become a clarion call representative of the district’s resurgence. Aiming to reflect Praga’s bright future, whilst also highlighting the number of historic properties currently lying empty in the capital, Vienna-based artist Piotr Janowski spent a total of nine days last year wrapping the tenement with aluminum material alongside volunteers from a local youth group. The results are scintillating, with the foil reflecting even the most nuanced changes in the weather, thereby creating the sensation of a ‘living work of art’. Tin Foil House ul. Ząbkowska 9

Guardian Angels

Appearing on the streets of Praga for the first time in 2010, Marek Sułek’s cheerful blue angels have, by many, been interpreted as a homage to the courtyard shrines so characteristic of the area. For Sułek, a multidisciplinary artist specializing in sculpture, photography and painting, they’re something else: “They aren’t meant to be religious,” he says, “they’re simply the guardian angels I once dreamt about when I was five.” Ironically somewhat, they could do with their own guardian. Repeatedly targeted by vandals and hooligans, the 40-kilo fiberglass works have come up against paint attacks, theft and even decapitation. “I’m not happy when my works are vandalized,” shrugs Sułek, “but I understand that’s part of life.” Angels of Praga Various Locations

Couples Therapy

SHUETTERSTOCK (3)

In a city high on gaudy gimmicks, Eran Shakine’s You & Me stands out as a work that’s both sophisticated and mature. Unveiled in 2015, the eight-meter-tall installation depicts a man and woman standing precariously on opposite ends of a see-saw-style, 20-meter beam that swings slowly in the breeze – taking eight hours to reach its maximum height at either end, the idea, says the Israeli artist, is to show the fluctuating relationship people have with their partner. You & Me ul. Twarda 2/4

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Into The ABYSS

The Insider enters the unknown to discover a lost world of street art… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

s art initiatives go, it was wild and weird and crazier than most. An attempt to “reconcile the independence, spontaneity and anarchy of street art with the limitations enforced by an enclosed exhibition space,” the inception of Galeria Forty/ Forty inside Fort Bema was inspired by a visit to Bangkok, during which the collective behind it were awestruck by a ‘street art exhibition’ inside “an empty space the size of a cathedral”. “It was the first time we asked ourselves,” recalls one of the core organizers, Marcin Rutkiewicz, “what could be done to make ‘street art’ inside a gallery space remain ‘real’?” The answer, they concluded, was straight-forward – it could not, they deduced, be cut-off from the street. “We realized that closing a door,” he continues, “was tantamount to the symbolic cutting-off of the ‘street’ attribute.” Thus Forty/Forty was born, a “gallery without doors, where anybody could enter at

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

any time and do what they please.” With the permission of the city’s conservator, as well as the blessing of numerous government figures, the abandoned Fort Bema was sanctioned for this use. From 2011 until 2015, approximately fifty street artists were invited to work on the walls either individually or by forming off-the-cuff alliances with others. The only rule, was that there weren’t any rules. A showcase of varying styles, artists such as NeSpoon, Szum, Chazme and Maniac were invited to contribute, with their patchwork of techniques forming a rich tapestry for the sight: installations competed against sticker art, posters, stencil graffiti and murals. All the time, the open door policy saw these works supplemented by impromptu additions from other outside sources. It was visionary. As it transpired, Fort Bema was the ideal backdrop. Completed in 1890 as part of an internal ring of Tsarist fortifications, advances in military hardware and tactics made it

largely redundant within a couple of decades. Plans to demolish it, however, were interrupted by the outbreak of WWI, and it was to later serve as a Nazi weapons depot, a POW camp for German soldiers and a wing of the Legia sports club. By the time the new millennium arrived, it was a derelict, empty shell used by vagrants and ravers. Galeria Forty/Forty offered its corridors and chambers a second lease of life. “It was transformed into a local tourist attraction,” writes Rutkiewicz in a pamphlet available online at 40bema.blogspot.com. “It became a destination for walks and cycling trips, a place of romantic dates, a background for amateur and professional photography sessions and a set for video clips. But first and foremost, the Forty/Forty Gallery was a place where viewers interested in street art could get to know the works of a major part of the Polish street art community.” The project closed in 2015, but Bema remains open to this day with many of the works still somehow surviving amid the more recent defacements. Reverting to its prior function as an ominous, dank labyrinth of pungent aromas, today visitors tread with trepidation among broken bottles and junky debris, past braindead squiggles and long emptied cans. In parts it feels lethal and in others just threatening, yet it remains a remarkable tribute to a Utopian ideal.

warsawinsider.pl

Puppet Soldiers by Blu (2010)

One of Warsaw’s earliest murals depicts soldiers as puppets, their traditional insignia replaced by currency symbols. Painted by the globally recognized Italian artist Blu, the project incorporated traces of an old PRL era mural that had previously covered the building. Plans to replace Blu’s design with another mural were scotched following vocal public protests. ul. Sienna 45

SUPERSIZE ME!

A mirror of the capital’s own creativity, the once sad walls of Warsaw have been used to channel its artistic spirit through the medium of large format murals. From a crowded field, we pick our favorites from the past and the present… PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Kamien i Co by Wiktor Malinowski (2009) Spanning an area of 1,400 sq/m, this mural covers a building that was heavily smashed during the war. Falling inside what was once the Jewish Ghetto, the artwork features a red balloon floating off into the air. The purpose of this work, it is said, is to foster memory and raise consciousness about the city’s past. ul. Waliców 14

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Color by Swanski (2012)

Perhaps nowhere better demonstrates the power of street art to transform even the most brutal of edifices than this effort by Swanksi. Designed in the 70s by Swedish architect Sten Samuelson, the monstrous car park behind the Novotel was handed a new burst of life courtesy of a 20,000 sq/m facelift made possible by a collaboration between Dulux and this locally-based street artist. ul. Parkingowa

David Bowie by David Celek (2016)

Making the most of a brief stopover at Dw. GdaĹ&#x201E;ski, David Bowie set off on foot to Pl. Wilsona where he explored the area and visited a record store. This short foray into Ĺťoliborz was enough to inspire him to write Warszawa, an eerie instrumental recorded in 1976. Shortly after his death, a mural celebrating his visit was added to the local landscape. ul. Marii Kazimiery 1

Centaur by Pixel Pancho (2012)

Castle by Phelgm (2013)

Bird & Snake by DALeast (2014)

Warsaw Fight Club by Conor Harrington (2015)

A mechanical centaur clad in a Roman helmet takes aim with a bow at a simpering robotic stag in this complex mural. Painted as part of the Street Art Doping festival, the work takes this duo of mythological creatures and places them in a futuristic context. ul. Dolna 37

Painted in a day, this image is composed of several thousand tangled strands with the brittle-looking wires merging to form a bird perched on a cobra. Such is the unsettling intensity of the work, it’s said to have caused several motorists to slam on their brakes. ul. Bliska 23

This former comic book artist’s vision depicted a castle floating on a planet maintained by downtrodden minions. Making full use of the building, the structure’s windows were integrated into Phelgm’s Kafkaesque vision. The tenement has since been bulldozed. Formerly ul. Mińska 12

Says the artist: “I wanted to demystify the classical art which tends to portray these kind of figures as being elegant and statuesque. By presenting them in direct combat I wanted to show the harm they are capable of.” ul. Środkowa 17

¥ Gate by Republic ¥ (2017)

Warsaw gets the ‘monst-art’ treatment courtesy of Republic ¥, a “fictitious, post-colonial state in the middle of nowhere inhabited solely by monsters.” Inscribed with the mottos Carpe D¥em and Carpe Noctem, the work urges all who pass through this gateway to live life to its fullest. ul. Bracka 20

Warsaw Uprising by anonymous artist (2017)

Unveiled on the eve of the 73rd anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, this 250-meter work is one of many to commemorate the insurgency that led to the destruction of the city, but is unique for being the only thing related to Polonia Warsaw football club that escapes vandalism from Legia fans. The location is not incidental: the stadium behind was the scene of heavy fighting. ul. Konwiktorska 6

Wola by Tytus Brzozowski (2018)

Best-known for his surreal, Warsaw-inspired watercolors, acclaimed artist Tytus Brzozowski has seen his work go XXL with three large-format murals around town. This was his first, and like the others that have followed, it celebrates the pre-war history of the area while never losing the dreamy themes that feature heavily in his portfolio. Al. Solidarności 173

Kora by Bruno Althamer (2019)

Honoring domestic rock goddess Kora â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who lost her battle against cancer last year â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this mural was painted as part of a wider action to commemorate the great women of Poland. The work has been intelligently positioned amid the trees so that the musician grows and loses her hair with the passing of each season. ul. Nowy Ĺ&#x161;wiat 18/20

Love of Lace

Famed for her increasingly international work with lace patterns, the Insider speaks to NeSpoon about her captivating style of street art…

WI: You’re often quoted as saying you were reborn in 2009… NeSpoon: I’ve been painting since I can remember, since kindergarten. I wanted to be a ‘real artist’ at the age of 6, when other girls dreamed of being princesses or fairies, but it was in 2009 that I started getting involved in street art. I figured that if corporations were being allowed to destroy Poland’s visual landscape with their billboards, then my art wouldn’t hurt anyone – even if I didn’t have permission. Prior to that I was painting dark, depressing canvases, but now I use lace patterns and lots of white colors.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

For more on NeSpoon, see: behance.net/nespoon

How has your art developed? My first street work was made of ceramics; later I started getting involved in murals, stencil graffiti and preparing in-situ installations. Nowadays I also deal with video art, sculpture and gallery projects. What makes lace special? In lace you can find a universal aesthetic code that’s deeply embedded in every culture. When I add colors to my paintings, people sometimes say that I’ve been inspired by Tibetan Mandalas, Moroccan ceramic or native pre-Columbian art. In every lace we find symmetry, some kind of order and harmony – and isn’t that what we all instinctively look for? How would you define your artistic style and philosophy? I try to make positive art and to invoke positive emotions. I hope people smile, even if just for a moment, when they see my work.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF NESPOON

In your opinion, what makes ‘good’ street art? I believe that real street art needs to be a spontaneous, bottom-up initiative and that it needs an element of anarchy. Mural festivals are not street art; when it comes to the aesthetics of murals, I can only say that less is more.

You’ve moved into large scale murals: how does this differ from working in a smaller format? I’ve always wanted to paint big things. Before 2009 I only painted dimensions of 140x140 cm because that was the range of my arms. With murals though, you’re talking about giant ‘canvases’. A week of hard work on some scaffolding or up a lift in some distant place is the best holiday I could imagine. It’s completely different to working illegally at night, under pressure, where within a few minutes you have to finish your work and vanish. They’re different sports entirely.

Do you have any wild and crazy street art ambitions? In 2042 I will have finished my most important project thus far: ‘Thoughts’. It started five years ago and it continues to grow. I work on it for around three to four months each year. Ultimately, my artistic aim is to have a large scale multimedia installation in public spaces all over the world. Tell us a secret about your work? It’s no secret, in fact, it’s a fairly universal rule that applies to all professions: if you want to achieve something, you need to work hard at it. Do something every day – and never stop dreaming!

I believe that real street art needs to be a spontaneous, bottom-up initiative and that it needs an element of anarchy

warsawinsider.pl

THE PERFECT CHEMIS-TREE The back story of how Warsaw and a palm tree became friends for life…

A PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

sked what public art should ‘achieve’, Joanna Rajkowska is surprisingly dismissive. “Nothing, really,” she replies, “it should just be a part of our everyday lives” It’s perhaps a startling admission given that Rajkowska, it could be argued, started Warsaw’s mania for this form of art. First appearing in the middle of December, 2002, her artificial palm tree in the center of Rondo de Gaulle’a lit the touchpaper for a horde of artists to follow in her wake and experiment in public, whilst simultaneously handing the city a work that would become every bit as iconic of the post-communist capital as the skyscrapers blooming upwards. Yet astonishing as it seems now, both these points were unintended side-effects that took years to manifest. Erected as a strictly temporary project, the idea for the Palm – or ‘Greetings From Jerusalem’ to award it its formal title – was coined during a trip that the artist undertook to Israel. “The palm is the ending to a text that has never been published,” says Rajkowska. “Artur Żmijewski and I went to Israel in 2001. When we returned to Warsaw, we wanted to write about the second Intifada and the fierce conflict that we had witnessed. At the same time, it seemed that Warsaw, with no proper Jewish community, was painfully empty – as if one chamber of its heart was missing.” Instead of, she continues, making hollowing statements, Rajkowska sought to do something – something performative. While the initial plan of setting a row of palm trees along Al. Jerozolomskie never materialized, a compromise was reached with the city – the placement of a 15-meter tall palm made from steel and clad in natural bark and

topped with polyethylene fronds. When it was first revealed, the general reaction ranged from good-humored smiles to outright resistance. Some were scandalized. “The beginning of her existence (it’s a she in Polish!),” remembers Rajkowska, “was very difficult. It divided people dramatically, to the extent that I heard about one family in Kielce that couldn’t finish their Christmas dinner because of an argument about it.” Granted a one-year permit for the project to stand, that it remains to this day has exceeded the artist’s expectations. “Even in my wildest dreams,” she says, “I didn’t expect it would survive longer than a year.” Not only did it, it became a landmark. Gradually, the public warmed to it, and Poland’s most famous tree became embedded in the urban fabric of the modern day city. And whilst she now approaches her 17th year of life, the palm’s old age has not made her any less controversial. As recently as June, she caused more headlines after her leaves withered overnight. For days, the press and the public were baffled as to the cause of this, only for the reason to be revealed later by the artist. Working in tandem with an environmental group, the leaves had been swapped out overnight to draw attention to climate change. “I have this fear, but also a sense of disillusionment, that people allow themselves such silly things (that threaten the environment) in the name of short-term political interests or economic expansion,” explained Rajkowksa in a statement to the press, “the dead palm is a sign of this.” Now returned to its lustrous best, and under the guardianship of the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw since 2014, its star power has not waned one bit. warsawinsider.pl

RAINBOW CONNECTION

f the palm tree divided opinion when it was first unveiled, then it escaped relatively lightly compared to the fate of Warsaw’s most (in)famous public installation. For that, think back to the rainbow that once straddled Pl. Zbawiciela. Meant to symbolize “tolerance, diversity and openness,” Julita Wójcik’s work originally made its debut in Brussels to celebrate Poland’s Presidency of the EU before being transported to Warsaw on June 8th, 2012. Composed of 22,300 artificial flowers, and topping out at a maximum height of nine meters, it proved an immediate source of conflict. Outraged by its positioning outside a church, not to mention its LGBT connotations (which, incidentally, were always denied by the

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

artist), politician Stanisław Pięta called the rainbow “a provocation” and “a disgusting gesture”. Priest Tadeusz Rydzyk went a step further, describing it to be a “symbol of deviancy”. Ludicrously, the rainbow found itself up against more than just rhetoric. Seven times it was set on fire, most notoriously by rampaging nationalists during the 2013 Independence Day riots. Debate swirled around it. Some lobbied for it to be moved to a quieter part of town, others for its colors to be traded for the red and white of Poland. Most, however, simply saw it for it what it was: a playful artistic gesture that injected life into Warsaw. It was no coincidence that the rainbow’s three year residence on Zbawiciela coincided with the area’s heyday: albeit

SHUTTERSTOCK

Remembering Warsaw’s most controversial artwork…

for a brief but memorable flash in time, no other place in Warsaw captured the zeitgeist in quite the same manner – unofficially rebranded as Plac Hipstera on account of its trendy bars and extravagant customers, it was the rainbow that served to stitch all of those elements together. Finally dismantled at the end of August, 2015, its removal sucked the soul from Zbawiciela – from thereafter, it was never quite the same. Still, hopes linger that it will one day return. Just last year, the illumination of a temporary rainbow hologram drew a crowd of thousands (as well as a significant police presence), and campaigners remain quietly optimistic that it could still reappear.

It was no coincidence that the rainbow’s three year residence on Zbawiciela coincided with the area’s heyday warsawinsider.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

eat! FOR AFTERS

Already synonymous with good taste, high fashion and the slinky things in life, Mokotowska street hits another home run with the launch of Kukułka, a joint initiative formed from an alliance between Ale Wino and Przegryź. Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about over the summer, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. Eating here, you feel sorry for the competition.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Kukułka ul. Mokotowska 52

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EAT! review

IN THE ZONE

After a year of frontier-pushing Polish cooking, Zoni changes direction with a new chef at the helm… On The Eye

Designed under the guidance of the world-renowned architect and designer Mirosław Nizio (Nizio Design International), it’s a space that impresses with an interior that revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s a fitting backdrop for a restaurant that is already regarded as the Pearl of Praga. But with Nizio, that’s something you expect. Though arguably better known for

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his work with museums (he designed the core exhibitions of The Warsaw Rising Museum and The Polish Vodka Museum next door), his work with Zoni is to be equally admired. “The idea was to keep what was left,” he says of this post-industrial space, “which meant as many of the original components and infrastructure as we could.” From this, what has developed is a moody but ambient space of black steel, warm copper and 19th century oak set against antique finds that are beautiful and curious: pre-war lamps, sepia photos and a 18th century mirror. “I’m not afraid to contrast rough

or raw materials with beautiful things,” he says, “and I think what’s been created is a fluid space that has a flow and warmth.” “I like to think the elements communicate with each other,” he continues, “and in the process we’ve given a second life to this building whilst simultaneously giving it a new touch.” As such customized furniture like glass-and-steel wine cabinet and black leather upholstered sofas are offset against little amusements like cutlery holders that roll out from beneath the tables. Paired with carefully sourced additions such as classic chairs from Czech brand Thonet, it’s nothing short of an aesthetic victory that strikes all who visit. “Fundamentally,” he says, “we wanted something that was actually quite simple, yet also sophisticated and elegant – I think that balance has been achieved.” The rest of Warsaw, it seems, would agree.

Zoni Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

On The Plate

Formerly the Insider’s Young Chef of the Year, Michał Gniadek’s menu has seen a complete rebrand of the gastro concept and a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. If that sounds a little routine, it’s anything but, with the number of rave reviews that have followed proving an apt reflection of this chef’s huge talent. The starters alone say much with Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek sheep’s cheese – oozing with gooey, cheesy greatness, is a complete reversal of the kind of stodgy Oscypek you’ve tried in the Tatras. And so it continues: foie gras pate with marinated cherries and a scoop of truffle ice cream is an exercise in indulgence, while the tuna comes served tataki-style and with a rich slick of ponzu. There is art, too, in the mains, the cod – cooked at low temperature and accompanied mussels and a delicate white wine sauce – offset by a manly thwunk of pork rib in BBQ sauce. Picking through it, the meat falling off the bone with the mere lightest of touches, it is with something that approaches a near reverential silence. And this being Gniadek, desserts are also worth a mention: in our case, a blueberry crumble with lime and thyme ice cream and a sparkly sugar sherbert that fizzes in the mouth. Simply put, you are blown away by the playful creativity and big, banging tastes. Handed the responsibility of taking charge of this kitchen, Gniadek has risen to the challenge – more so, he’s done this on his own terms, transforming the menu to mirror his strengths. The results are an exceptional adventure in a complete new direction. If this was once the Insider’s Young Chef of the Year, there’s much to suggest that he’s taken the next big step up. warsawinsider.pl

Partner Spotlights A New Style At An Old Favorite

Undergoing a complete metamorphosis in recent months, one of Warsaw’s most recognizable cafes has become a synonym for love, life, ethical hedonism and a celebration of free time. Featuring the greenest garden in the city center, we’ve also got DJs from Thursday to Sunday, eco-minded food sourced from reliable producers and Mediterranean cuisine with a modern, Polish spin. Ranging from extensive breakfast choices, desserts, lunches and tapas, to Italian-style pizza and burgers, our food is complemented by original tea blends, sparkling wines that are available for takeaway and the best coffee in town. A legend on Warsaw’s entertainment map, our reinvention at the hands of Tadeusz Muller has to be seen to be believed. CAVA ul. Nowy Świat 30 & ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy, 2nd floor), cava.pl

Back to Basics

Starting in September we’re delighted to open A1 and A2 class groups (beginners and high beginners/ false beginners) aimed at those seeking to reorganize the Polish part of their brain! Intended for those who started learning but gave up after remembering a few phrases, we’ll be looking to expand your vocab using our Flower Power method – there’s no better way to build your oral and writing skills! Cup of Polish To set up your level placement meeting contact us: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

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FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS SEN is a place of many senses. An environment where food, drinks, music blend together as one. R ES E RVAT I O N S : t e l. + 4 8 8 8 3 0 2 5 0 2 5 re s e r va t i o ns@ se nwa rsa w. p l W ioś lars ka 6 | 0 0 - 4 11 Wa r s a w

senwars a w. p l |

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BR O OK LY N B U R G E R S & S T E AK S T R U E A M E R I C A N F O O D, DRINKS AND VIBES

Brooklyn Burgers & Steaks is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous s c r e e n s . Yo u t h i n k b u r g e r s a n d s t e a k s – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

JA N A PA W Ł A I I 1 8 00-116 WARSAW

B R O O K LY N B W. E U /BROOKLYNRESTAURANTANDBAR /BROOKLYN_BURGERSNSTEAKS warsawinsider.pl 35

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

AN HOUR IN MOROCCO

At magical Maghreb, the exotic becomes accessible to all…

aghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual: you sit amid striped wallpaper and exotic rugs while friendly servers make their way past shelves of wine and crates of produce. It’s a pleasure just to be here. That feeling lifts an extra bit higher with the introduction of starters. A basket of warm, soft homemade flatbreads appear first, promptly followed by a hit list of the restaurant’s biggest-selling hummus – all are strong but some are stronger than the others: the zesty lemon hummus is a standout, as is the one starring sundried tomatoes. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the other add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. The tastes are as loud and vibrant on the palate as they are on the eyes. What you have in front of you is a feast for all senses that feels brilliantly unique. And thus it continues. Served in colorful clay pots, together with overflowing bowls of fragrant couscous, the tajine dishes stand in a league of their own largely untroubled by any competition. In all, nine vie for selection, their components ranging from lamb and beef meatballs in a pepper-onion sauce, to pumpkin and harissa lashed in honey and pepper. You want more of everything, so the generosity of the portions is welcome indeed. Defined by it’s big hearted richness, the beef is the king with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. Immensely satisfying in its taste and authenticity, it’s a restaurant that allows to shut out the wider world outside. In Maghreb, you are held in a suspended state of far-off, distant travel. Leaving, it’s with a return ticket in mind.

Maghreb ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

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RAISING THE STEAKS!

For Warsaw’s top steak, look no further than Beef n’ Pepper…

reated by people truly passionate about beef, we offer 28-day, dry-seasoned Polish beef that’s simultaneously tender, juicy and incredibly wellmarbled. Our restaurant specializes in such extraordinary dishes with our chef carefully selecting each ingredient to make for a meal to remember. But although Polish beef dominates our offer, we’re also proud to offer Argentinean and American steaks as well, not to mention new dishes such as caramelized goat cheese and chilli con carne. But we promise more than just culinary sensations fit

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for every gourmand – our well-stocked bar is home to an exhaustive selection of whisky, Bourbon and wine whilst our cocktail card has been designed to pair perfectly with the food on offer. A great place for company meetings and events, we also offer live music each Tuesday from 7 p.m. Don’t waste your time on the others, join us now for a meal you’ll remember! Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl

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WE’RE ONE-OF-AKIND! Both thrilling and versatile, the creative interiors of Drukarnia are perfect for an evening with a twist…

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ocated in the heart of the Kamionek district – just minutes from central Warsaw – the former printing house that serves as our home has proved to be inspiring in more ways than one. Boasting a unique design, the restaurant features several old printing machines around which we’ve posed plants, lights and other colorful accents. As fans of second chances, the majority of our furniture is made of recycled materials. Our floorplan is comprised of several different spaces, among them: The so-called Drukarnia, a tempting area that’s especially conducive to romantic dinners or gatherings with family and friends. Complimenting it, we have a conference room on the first floor that can fit 20 people. Beyond this, the Dzienna section is ideal for coffee, drinks or a quick lunch, whilst the club – occupying the

lowest level of the building – is suited to concerts and events that sometimes run till dawn. In this highly artistic space, we can organize any type of events: children’s parties, birthdays, weddings or simply an imaginative corporate meetings. Excellent acoustics and technical high standards are matched by an ambiance that feels one-of-a-kind. Finally, there’s our garden, complete with sun loungers. Our multifunctional restaurant and event complex offers countless possibilities for use: concerts, conferences, team buildings, or other special events. We provide full catering and technical facilities. Concerts (for up to 800 people) Integration meetings (up to 600) Conferences (up to 100) Dinner in the dark (8 to 24)

Tasting dinners Culinary demonstrations Business meetings Dinners and lunches Special events Workshops Live cooking shows And... Weddings and receptions Communion and baptism dinners Baby Shower parties Birthday/anniversary meetings Maiden/bachelor parties Drukarnia ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 42 bakeries 42 balkan 42 chinese 42 comfort & street food 42 desserts 46 fine dining 47 food halls & happenings 44 french 49 georgian 49 greek & turkish 49 hungarian 49 indian 49 indonesian 50 international 50 italian 53 japanese 55 jewish 57 korean 57 latin & spanish 58 mexican 58 middle eastern 59 pacific 60 polish 60 scandinavian 65 seafood 65 specialty food shops 65 steak houses 66 thai 68 ukrainian 68 vegan 67 vietnamese 68

american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried

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pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat

balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen

in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburgstyle hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still

The Amber Room offers exquisite a la carte dishes that change seasonally and are accompanied by a magnificent selection of wines handpicked by our sommelier. The restaurant also offers a tasting menu, a varied lunch menu and excellent grilled meats and vegetarian options that can be enjoyed along with delicious cocktails served in the bar. Awarded four couverts in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide, the Amber Room also received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2019 and was selected to be part of the prestigious La Liste.

Amber Room Restaurant, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999, recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings

H A L A G WA R D I I

FOOD HALLS & HAPPENINGS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues… Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Lunapark Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that

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Warsaw’s ever seen. Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. For all the prowling stilt walkers and street performers, the key attraction is the Mini Market, a superb line-up of ethnic food stalls. The African street food by Botswanan celebrity chef Joseph Seeletso is the Insider’s highlight. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla Nocny Market This weekend market brings together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands on a disused train platform illuminated with neon. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market is the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. A place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights, the essence of Warsaw lurks within. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

EAT! Listings bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul. Francuska 1, restauracjaefes.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with

honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino

burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22

Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A

Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for

desserts

Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com Frank Warszawa Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul.

Polna 18/20 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

EAT! Listings Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class

venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere. com.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave

logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole

EAT! Listings headed for a Michelin star. Over summer, we loved the elegant tomato-based starter, the prime beef rib served as a main, and the sorrel and mint parfait that arrived at the end. In this case, the rave reports seem fully justified. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored

tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy

place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, fb.com/sofra.warszawa

hungarian

Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44 Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes

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indonesian Gado Gado Previously known as Warung Jakarta, the menu here has a street food edge with secret magic recipes extending to Nasi Goreng and a lively chicken Rendeng. Accessible to all levels of income, it’s become one of the true unsung glories of ethnic Warsaw. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff,

and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan

EAT! Listings Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neobistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl Flaming & Co. Seemingly inspired by a Long Island shoot for Hilfiger, Flaming has long been hailed

as one of Warsaw’s summer heroes. Well-spaced tables separated by picketfenced greenery allow for privacy, with the sophisticated air hitting new heights in the evening once the candles are lit. Shaded by the trees that loom overhead, it’s a space that feels cool, casual and confidently affluent. (E6) ul. Chopina 5

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5

tion, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some oneoff: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

Lente Bright, sunny and informal, Lente’s style lifts spirits immediately on entry. Variety is big here, with the menu including shakshuka bowls, burrata, hummus and even a ‘Gibraltar breakfast’ (yep, a British fry-up!). (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimenta-

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Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by

joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. Full report soon. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248 Pink Lobster Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. ul.

Wiertnicza 96, pinklobster.pl Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war

EAT! Listings skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself. So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists: the kind of dish you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the dailychanging tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to

impress. And impressed you will be. Outgoing chef Aleksander Baron is a tough act to follow, but incoming Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow. His menu promises a departure from Baron’s ‘modernized heritage cuisine’, and instead looks set to present a more rounded, international gastronomic view. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni. today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable

Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired

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EAT! Listings L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12,

dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this

Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski to the fore, with the highlyrated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo

flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade

• Breakfasts daily from 7.00 to 10.30

• Modern take on Italian cuisine

• A unique atmosphere in the heart of the city Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

insider_144x102.indd 1 | SEPTEMBER 2019 54 534069_reklama Warsaw Insider

2019-08-26 12:46:40

EAT! Listings pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the

couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms. Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Huge in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an oversized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya

liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks

over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

jewish Mazal Tov Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub.

(D1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 Koreanka Grill Perhaps no-one person has shaped Warsaw’s Asian path more than restaurateur Yeunsu Lee. Now, for her latest concept,

she explores the pleasures of the Korean grill, a group slanted affair in which diners heap marinated bulgogi, rib-eye steak and Mangalica pork underneath overhead heaters. Complimented by bitsy starters, everything looks and eats perfectly. (D6) ul.

Lwowska 17 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/ KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony. Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes

a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over

EAT! Listings new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this

is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15 La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new

levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. Full report soon. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Enjoy our patio with friends or for a quiet dinner for two at two of our locations

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo, no outdoor patio) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth. One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

pacific Aroha Bowls Declared by The Guardian as the ‘must-have snack’ of 2017, the cult of poke is finally finding a niche in Warsaw. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served in a bowl of rice and then topped with vibrantly colored fruit, veg and spices. Warning: highly addictive. ul. Puławska 246/5, aroha.pl

polish Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9 Closed at press time

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Bazar Kocha Mimicking the look of a contemporary farmers’ market, awnings cover the counter at Bazar Kocha and pickled produce lines the shelves – what you see on them is available to buy. Loyal to the concept of terroir, the menu makes a strong case for contemporary Polish cuisine with a seasonally-adjusted choice that involves mutton dumplings; smoked eggplant risotto; or beef cheeks with a silky lovage mousse. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Brawo Bis Widely recognized from his work presenting the domestic version of Hell’s Kitchen, Michał Brys returns to the kitchen with a new venture, an informal-style restaurant with battleship colors offset by cabaret posters – a busy cultural program is in the works, and so too a menu that will seek to reprise the pre-war tastes of Warsaw. In the meantime, find a small but excellent array of dishes that make a big deal of the chef’s big passion: baking! Sample dishes so far include beef cheeks and chimichurri piled on a wheel of wild yeast cake. Simple but brilliant. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

EAT! Listings Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Lokalna Bistronomia The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. There’s atmosphere, as well, with a décor that feels lively and modern but includes some requisite old school neon and other enjoyable retro touches. ul. Nieporęcka 6, lokalnabistronomia.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Kompania Piwna The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and a lively inner courtyard designed to mimic a Mitteleuropa town square. Prowling mountain bands top off the atmosphere nicely. (D1) ul. Podwale 25

guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/schabowy.warszawa

Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets. Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31

Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never

An enjoyably nostalgic ride through bygone times, the atmosphere of the inter-bellum is reflected by a menu that celebrates the

Stolica

tastes of classic Poland with no quarter given. Formal service and white tablecloth arrangements lend a typically Old Town ambiance. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3,

restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet

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EAT! Listings decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood

by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe

L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a popup, the simple surrounds are outweighed

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation

We could talk about food for hours!

Buying our produce from local markets, Antresola is a collection of Polish stories that reveal the flavors of our childhood and our love for food: whether it’s goose pate, duck in cherry sauce with dogwood tincture, or meringue with salted caramel and red wine jelly, Antresola is where the tastes of regional Poland come alive once again. For food from the manor houses of Poland to its country cottages, visit Antresola to fall in love with the taste our nation.

ul. Wronia 45 (lok u2) tel. 22 415 25 25, www.antresola.eu

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EAT! Listings is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl

Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii

Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly

Hala Mirowska As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers and hard-to-find herbs; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Noisy and unkempt,

chaotic and crammed, it’s a sensory overload that sends volts through the foodie. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The

EAT! Listings

VEGAN Officially ranked the 7th most vegan-friendly city in the world, Warsaw’s plant-based scene continues to expand at a rate that feels close to exponential – during the last roll-call, there were 161 restaurants to pick from! Sensibly, we’ve whittled that choice to a more digestible figure… Eden This historic, modernist villa features a secret courtyard garden complete with a magnificent greenhouse at its center. Inside, meanwhile, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com

Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/momencik Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. As for the mushroom burger: wow. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul. Radna 14, vegdeli.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – all of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. Eek! But despite this double-headed challenge, Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa, a fact that’s led to the opening of a new join in Mokotów. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. ul. Finlandzka 12A & ul. Kazimierzowska 22, fb.com/veganramenshop Vege Małpa A raw, hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: composed of vegan bacon, roasted onions, pickles and a bun that’s blacker than midnight, it’s the final word in junky pleasure. ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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EAT! Listings desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, thaithai.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants,

Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

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Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10 Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vietnamese Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

DRINK! I CAN FEEL YOUR… AURA

There are smaller bars in Warsaw, but finding them would require a magnifying glass. Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, there’s something decadent and delicious about it all. It’s a sentiment that extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category – but that’s what happens when you find yourself recommended in the pages of Vogue. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. Aura ul. Hoża 27

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drink! craft beer

BEER-LIEVE IT OR NOT!

Dropping like a bombshell among aficionados the world over was August’s news that CNN had picked Warsaw in its Top 15 shortlist of craft beer cities…

f all the accolades that have poured Warsaw’s way in recent times, there can’t be many that have raised as many collective eyebrows as the capital’s inclusion in CNN’s rundown of the planet’s most “brew-centric cities”. Named as a “bucket list city”, the town found itself rubbing shoulders with traditional greats such as Berlin, Brussels, Portland and Asheville. Critics, however, were soon quick to surface, many railing against the insertion of curious outsiders such as Tokyo, Tallinn, Shanghai and Rome. “Really,” wrote one disgruntled commentator, “it sounds more like a list of where CNN’s journalists liked the most on their latest holidays.” Yet despite the wave of negativity, Warsaw evaded most of the scoffs, a fact firmly bolstered by its growing reputation among global experts. Draft Magazine, for instance, noted back in 2017 that the country’s craft beer revolution had “matured into something distinctive.” And in the two years since, it’s grown even more. First sparked by the Pinta brewery in 2011 (themselves namechecked in CNN’s article alongside local brewing legends Artezan), the resulting tidal wave of craft beer has seen Warsaw deluged with a wealth of quality pubs overlooking the traditional mainstream forces. But how far have we come and are the plaudits deserved? Paweł Leszczyński, the co-founder of the Warsaw Beer Festival and the Insider’s go-to beer guy, ponders these questions over a pint of something lovely…

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

WI: In your eyes, what makes Warsaw an exciting city for craft beer? PL: Five things off the top of my head. First, it’s got diversity. We’ve around 1,000 craft beer taps dispensing the best beers found in Poland and around the world – and they’re always changing what they’re serving! Second, every weekend you’re seeing approximately ten beer premiers or tap takeovers. The event side of things is genuinely exciting. Next, Warsaw gets the best breweries – every domestic producer wants to sell their beer in the capital, so the pubs can easily take their pick from the most interesting beers. Then, there’s the Warsaw Beer Festival. It’s an intense three-day event held twice a year and it’s no surprise that it’s grown to become the most important craft beer festival in Poland. Finally, there’s the prices. You can get a fabulous craft beer for as little as zł. 12 – actually, even less when you consider the vari

ous promotions. If you know the right places, you’ll find brilliant beer for just EUR 2.5 served every Monday! Honestly speaking, were you a little surprised about the news that CNN had selected Warsaw? Yes! Of course we’re aware ourselves that the Polish beer market is booming (and I think there’s even more to come!), but it’s a fact that’s often doubted outside of our borders. That said, as Steve Dresler (editorial note: the beer prophet that helped establish the Sierra Nevada brewery as a global legend) noted at one recent beer festival, although Poles are currently taking their inspiration from the brewers over in the States, it won’t be long until that situation flips. How fast has the craft scene evolved here? The first craft pubs only emerged six to seven years ago, so the fact that

we now have around fifty in Warsaw is something to be proud of. There’s also a few festivals, thousands of homebrewers, a few great breweries and multiple events. We’ve come a long way! You deal with plenty of foreigners in the course of your work – what’s their reaction to the local craft scene in Warsaw? Well, to use one example, I know one Vice President of an important corporation that takes all of his foreign guests out to the city’s craft beer pubs – that says a lot, don’t you think? On another front, I’ve noticed the increase in ‘beer tourists’ specifically coming over to try the beers at our festival. There’s two quotes I’ll always remember a couple of these making. “Polish beer isn’t a joke,” followed by someone else simply saying: “The Warsaw Beer Festival? It’s a benchmark of success.” warsawinsider.pl

drink! Review bars & pubs 2Koła Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/ foton.bar

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa. It’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. (H4) ul. Francuska 2

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous

warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia

you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala Playing more than a bit part role in the Wisła’s gentrification is Przystań, a sleek moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with renegade beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd convening under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Come summer, when the roof rolls back from the all-weather terrace, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of the after-work pint. (A4) Pl.

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything

members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting

Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of head-swivelling glamor pusses. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés

A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze. Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cava Nowy Świat Recently reinvented, the status of this

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Drink! Listings institution hasn’t wavered with its prime location complimented by premium coffee, well-thought cocktails and eco-minded food menu. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul.Wilcza 42

Jagiellońska 30

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul. Fabryc-

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

zna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store, it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. In summer, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy. ul.

Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retrostyled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4)

11, forum.coffee

ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48

Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

The View Because who doesn’t love partying under palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald –

Drink! Listings Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are

traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

La Sirena Though primarily known as the best

Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings

BAR CRAWLS

in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie

cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2)

Mazowiecki Few streets encapsulate the boom and bust nature of Warsaw’s after dark scene better than Mazowiecka. Having represented the pinnacle of the city’s social life for much of the Naughty Noughties, a dramatic lull followed. Now, it’s back and better than before! Rekindling the spirit of the glory years, find a new generation of glamor pusses and playboys wiggling their ’tings in bar-club crossovers such as Ritual and Fat Buddha. High rollers should start their evening at the bar of the Hotel Warszawa just across the road.

Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the fragrant passageway at Nowy Świat 26. Nowogrodzka At press time Warsaw could boast 50-odd multitap bars, a phenomenal accomplishment given that figure stood at zilch back in 2011. While the craft beer revolution has penetrated even the darkest, most philistine suburbs, its beating heart thuds the loudest down on Nowogrodzka – no-one will bat an eyelid should you begin scribbling notes about the latest double hopped seaweed gose. The presence of Nowina wine bar, the acclaimed Weles cocktail bar, not to mention a couple of clubs around the corner, add wider appeal. Poznańska & Surrounds Warsaw’s south central pre-war fragment is flushed with options, with the bulk of the action radiating outwards from the center of Poznańska. Beirut is where the radar beeps the loudest, but the truth is no matter what direction you go, you’ll find somewhere to suit.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Loreta There aren’t many places the Insider preferred to be over summer than on the top floor of the Puro cradling a cocktail in its paws. The funky, eclectic décor comprises of bubblegum pink neon signage, bristling greenery and low-slung seating and is complimented by inventive cocktails often ad-libbed by the staff. (D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

T Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M the kind of charismatic Occupying C W you’d read about in Dickens, gatehouse ≈ W C yourself in front of the upstairs position ≈ C C fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a ≈ glassTof something tall and lovely: the ≈ P E are in a class of their own and cocktails ≈ L S specifically customized for the season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular P B B burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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HAMPAGNE

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ul. Wierzbowa 11

Marszałkowska 45/49

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

ASTINGS

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

20, barandbooks.pl

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy withV China Town next door. The menu O L a P i n Y rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic www.barandbooks.pl cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. n

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Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers glinting behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the

Drink! Listings basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7)

ment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruit-

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’

bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-

warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9,

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al.

Nowogrodzka 25

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz. (E3) ul. Solec 46A

live music

Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

for gentlemen

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of this spot generates an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22,

nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland. Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl.

hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Konesera 1

Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo

wine bars Ale Wino! Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby

Drink! Listings either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. In summer, the canopied terrace is ideal for pre-theater drinks or date night with the partner. (D2) Pl.

Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its prewar prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41

in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4,

Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on

nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Nowina Kieliszki Na Hożej The striking interior that catches the eye Go on, count them: hanging tantalizfrom across the street – restored pre-war ingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve rendered from corks and an engaging redall the wines they have (and there’s a dish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 motherlode to pick from) by the glass. the kind of atmosphere that’s missing

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Taste the knowledge!

CMY

Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

www.pvm.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

do!

IN LOVE WITH RETRO

For vintage finds look no further than this Praga outpost, a busy enclave groaning under the weight of treasured heirlooms both great and small. Heaven for browsers and kleptomaniacs alike, visit for Scandinavian furniture pieces and domestic oddities that range from chiming clocks and funky posters to groovy wall units and antique cutlery. When personalizing your living space, few places feel quite as special as this true one-off. Look Inside ul. WileĹ&#x201E;ska 21, lookinside.pl

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DO! Review

Wilhelm Sasnal, Untitled, 2018, courtesy of the artist and Foksal Gallery Foundation

Andrzej Tobis, Cabin Window, from the A-Z (Educational Cabinets) project, 2018, courtesy of the artist and Jednostka Gallery

1. ASYMETRIA www.instytutfotografiifort. WOLSKIE CENTRUM KULTURY org.pl Wolska 46/48 www.asymetria.eu 10. JEDNOSTKA Andersa 13 2. BWA WARSZAWA www.jednostka.com Marszałkowska 34/50 www.bwawarszawa.pl 11. LE GUERN Katowicka 25/1 3. DAWID RADZISZEWSKI www.leguern.pl Kolejowa 47a/U5 www.dawidradziszewski.com 12. LETO Dzielna 5 4. ESTA www.leto.pl Dzielna 5 www.galeria-esta.pl 13. LOKAL_30 Wilcza 29A/12 5. FOKSAL GALLERY www.lokal30.pl FOUNDATION Górskiego 1A 14. MONOPOL www.fgf.com.pl Marszałkowska 34/50 www.galeriamonopol.pl 6. PROFILE FOUNDATION Franciszkańska 6 15. OLSZEWSKI GALLERY www.fundacjaprofile.pl Szpitalna 8A www.olszewskigallery.com 7. M2 GALLERY Oleandrów 6 16. PIKTOGRAM www.m2.art.pl Kredytowa 9 www.piktogram.org 8.HIGH Miedziana 6 17. POLA MAGNETYCZNE www.galleryhigh.com Londyńska 13 www.polamagnetyczne.com 9. FORT INSTYTUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY 18. POLANA INSTITUTE Racławicka 99 al. Jana Pawła II 49 (Fort Mokotów, building 06) www.polana.institute

19. PROPAGANDA Foksal 11/1 www.prpgnd.net 20. RASTER Wspólna 63 www.rastergallery.com 21. RODRIGUEZ GALLERY Al. Jerozolimskie 51/2 www.rodriguezgallery.com 22. SERCE CZŁOWIEKA Pytlasińskiego 20/16 www.smierc.cz 23. STEREO Miedziana 11 (Dom Słowa Polskiego) www.galeriastereo.pl 24. SZARA Marszałkowska 34/50 www.galeriaszara.pl 25. SZYDŁOWSKI Wspólna 53/2 www.galeria-szydlowski.pl 26. WIZYTUJĄCA Grzybowska 88 www.tugaleria.pl 27. WSCHÓD Miedziana 11 (Dom Słowa Polskiego) www.galeriawschod.com

Now in its ninth year, Warsaw Gallery Weekend has, in the past, been described as a show of muscle from the capital’s privately-run galleries. Designed to promote the talents of Poland’s rising and established stars, whilst offering an escape from the elitism of the capital’s big players, this year’s edition will see twenty-seven galleries fling their doors open for free with talks, events and curator tours all bolstering the program. Aimed at everyone from aficionados to novices, it’s rightfully carved a name as Central Eastern Europe’s leading contemporary art festival. In the words of the organizers, “this is more than just an opportunity for audiences to view the latest works by prominent artists or to enlarge their collections: it’s a chance to encounter artists and curators in person, and the best time of year to start a contemporary art collection.” Pay heed. Warsaw Gallery Weekend Sept 20th – 22nd Various locations, warsawgalleryweekend.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

MAP COURTESY OF WGW

ART ATTACK!

r ne t rt igh Pa otl Sp

INK, GLORIOUS INK

With the latest installment of the Warsaw Tattoo Convention coming up in October, express your creative wild side with a tattoo that will change your life!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREYALOVEPHOTO.PL

layfully dubbing themselves as “The Worst Studio In The City”, JUNIORINK have emerged as anything but, with over 40,000 Facebook followers attesting to their artistic prowess and incredible skill. Boldly claiming that “nothing is impossible”, fourteen years of experience have made them a stalwart on the capital’s ink scene and elevated their seven resident artists to the platform of minor celebrity. Unique in its atmosphere and visionary in their execution, it’s no wonder JUNIORINK has grown to become known as one of the top tattoo parlors in the country – and if you’re the kind to harbor regrets, then they also offer high-quality laser removal using equipment from the acclaimed Mistakes of Youth firm. And outside of tattoo art, check-in for piercings and assorted body modifications as carried out by Suchy, an acclaimed specialist with over a dozen years of practice.

JUNIORINK Pl. Konstytucji 2/25, JUNIORINK.PL

warsawinsider.pl

DO! Museums

FAMOUS FIVE

Offering a well-rounded view of Warsaw’s past and present, the following museums and cultural institutions have established themselves as the city’s (and even the nation’s) essential must-sees.

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

AND GET

Created in conjunction with the Warsaw Rising Museum, jazz legend Michał Urbaniak’s latest album, From Warsaw With Love, is a personalized tribute to the battle and offers a musical journey dedicated “to those who are gone and those who still are.” Featuring cameos from Marcus Miller, David Gilmore and Lenny White, the album was released at the end of July as part of the 75th anniversary commemorations.

DO! Museums

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

POLIN

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

warsawinsider.pl

DO! museums

NEON MUSEUM

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,

Z AC H Ę TA

a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-

nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils. The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com

TEMPORARY EXHIBITION

6 Anielewicza Str. 00-157 Warsaw

GDYNIA TEL AVIV 13.09.2019 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 03.02.2020

polin.pl

cojestgrane

warsawinsider.pl

DO! museums Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa

detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3,

50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

stacjamuzeum.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully

EXPERIENCES Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie

them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S

51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such

as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds. Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

300 meters Kaweczyn Power Plant None of the numerous skyscrapers raised at the beginning of the 21st century have surpassed the height of the Palace of Culture and Science. Yet, in 1983, the record was smashed by the chimney of a power plant located on the eastern fringes of the city.

FIGURE IT OUT

The Museum of Warsaw’s Data section gives numbers a new meaning…

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALICJA SZULC

Reprised as a treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, the first inkling that the Museum of Warsaw does things a little differently comes straight from the kick-off. Descending to the cellars, it’s here visitors enter the first of 21 thematic rooms. Dedicated to ‘data’, this opening section of the museum captures the unique character of Warsaw through the medium of numbers, presenting these figures via an engaging series of charts, maps and super cool graphics. Through this data, the Museum hope to verify stereotypes about the city, its residents and urban layout, as well as pinpoint events and phenomena that have influenced the capital’s shape. “The material was selected,” they affirm, “to provide first-time visitors with a basic knowledge of Warsaw while also inspiring those familiar with the city.” More importantly, it’s rather good fun. Packed with trivia concerning demographics, city limits, spatial changes, tallest buildings and city ‘firsts’, it’s perhaps the last that’s arguably the most engaging. A must for Warsawophiles looking to arm up on knowledge about the city’s first car (1896: two Benz vehicles purchased by industrialist Stanisław Grodzki), Warsaw’s original football derby (1921: Polonia stuffed Legia 8-0), the first regular striptease performances (1957: held in the Stodoła Student Club), and even the first kebab shop (1994: Saska K’s legendary Efes), it’s a fantastic spin on the anticipated experience.

231 meters Palace of Culture and Science Design: Lev Rudnev A symbolic gift from the Soviet Union to Warsaw amid thr post-war reconstruction efforts. Since the modernization of its spire in 1994, the building stands at 237 meters.

67 meters Prudential Design: Marcin Weinfeld The insurance company skyscraper housed offices and apartments; in 1939 an experimental television transmitter was installed on its roof.

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl Admission: zł. 20/15 (free Thurs) warsawinsider.pl

DO! Listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

(Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

„Erdkinder” Middle School

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

Montessori High School

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843

DO! Listings 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located

in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl

DO! Listings schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For

further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a

purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Wilanów Zawady: ul. Syta 78 Mokotów: ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, Cisowa 13 and Obserwatorów 8 www.tep.edu.pl

696 904 687

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

DO! Listings The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotรณw this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Beล ska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

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Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

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DO! Listings School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

health & beauty gyms Artis Wellness Club This state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Swimming, sauna and steam room

facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

NEED A VENUE FOR A FAMILY GATHERING OR BIRTHDAY PARTY? CAFE PRZYGODA IS THE PLACE!

The Hermit Barber Shop You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. Pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl Hop Chop Ever-spreading chain whose quality customer service extends to Englishspeaking staff and easy-to-use online scheduling. Various locations, hopchop.pl Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55 Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul. Mokotowska 26

spas & salons

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

- Loads of fun in the indoor playground! - Family events & birthday parties - Workshops for children (inc. sensory activities and "Gordon's Musical Learning") - Dance and acting classes

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

kontakt@cafeprzygoda.pl tel. 602 410 420 ul. Bobrowiecka 10

Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

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DO! Listings

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2,

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

pedicure-place.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

shopping fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

home & design DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo,

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Galeria Północna Feature inc. Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Porcelanowa An Insider favorite, Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

24.10-7.11.2019

Tickets and information: w w w.adamiakjaz z.pl Projekt współfinansuje m.st. Warszawa

Dofinansowano ze środków Ministra Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego

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DO! Listings 4 & 5-star hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Vienna House Mokotów ul. Postępu 4, viennahouse.com

Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

relocation companies

Moxy Warszawa Praga ul. Ząbkowska 29, moxy-hotels. marriott.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@ regent-warsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

networking InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Check their web for news on their monthly meetings. internations.org International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com Professionals in Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw

Hotel Warszawa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel. 22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

PURO ul. Widok 9, purohotel.pl Raffles Europejski Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

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DO! Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

VODKA MUSEUM

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious in summer. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage

CZAR PRL MUSEUM

Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum

(czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike. In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages, and don’t miss the weekend light and sound shows at the Multimedia Fountains between the Wisła and Old Town.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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looking back

INSIDER TEAM

Ever wondered what we get up to when we’re not diligently assembling the magazine that you read? Wonder no more!

Summer meant the seaside – namely, the Hel Peninsula. From drinking beer named Highway to Hel to taking a bus numbered 666, it was heartening to see the Polish sense of humor revealed at its bluntest. Beautiful as it all was, there invariably comes that moment when you ponder Bukowski’s great sound byte: “It’s not that I don’t like people, I just feel better when they’re not around.” And there was Saska Kępa, suckers! After nine years in Muranów, it was time for a personal upgrade to the confines of Saska and with it, all the joys that come with prowling a new district: from rediscovering the nuclear danger of the No. 7 sauce at Spoco Loco to the blissful pleasure that is the garden at Biała.

104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2019

What else did August bring? Football! And for this Insider, that’s already meant a fiery trip to Lech Poznań, a foray into the media seats for Legia’s clash with Rangers, some side trips to support Polonia and lower league thrills with Kartofliska (team motto: “football without alcohol is nothing”). How good to be back! On a darker note, it was with great sadness we learned of the death of Steve Whittle, a long-term Insider supporter and diamond geezer whose passing in August left many of us stunned. His impossible yarns and enthusiasm for the city are deeply missed by all of us that knew him. Cheers to you mate.

PHOTOGRAPH TOP ALEX WEBBER. BELOW KEVIN DEMARIA

August Retrospective

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