Warsaw Insider #283 March 2020

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

MARCH 2020

283

03/2020

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS NANUSHKA ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SOPHIA WEBSTER TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

5 Neighborhood 6 Holiday 8 City 10 International

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

FEATURES

12 Neon Museum Walk An insider look 16 History Medieval Bródno 20 Design CPN... 22 Women of Warsaw F & B

EAT!

27 First Bite:

Zkurczybyk. 28 Foodie News

Foodie Rollins and K-Bar Piękna 29 Review:

MariCruz_mission burrito 30 Review:

Bocca Bistro & Bar

DRINK!

MARCH 2020

Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

licking through past issues, it’s customary for me to ring in our March issue by babbling about spring and its imminent arrival – no such joy this time around for the simple fact that this year it pretty much feels that spring began on New Year’s Day. But if winter found itself struck from the calendar, Women’s Day hasn’t – for this reason, this edition we cast a spotlight on some of the women that have pushed Warsaw’s gastronomic scene to dizzy new heights. Elsewhere, we’ve reacquainted ourselves with the Neon Museum, travelled back to medieval Bródno and headed north for a manor house chillout. And, of course, nowhere else will you find a more comprehensive and impartial guide to where you should eat and what you should drink. Hope you enjoy it and see ya’ next month!

59 First Sips:

Lulu

60 Neighborhood Watch

ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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DISCOVER

Tel. (022) 783-6000

71 Review:

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Europe’s largest aquapark makes a splash after finally opening back in Feb.

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Two Arts Are Better Than One 72 Review: Polin for kids 74 Travel: Dwór Dawidy 76 Museums 80 Essentials 94 Map 96 Events In March

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD`S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

. 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyzy tel.: 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

in the

NEWS

NEIGHBORHOOD

SHUTTERSTOCK

Play It Cool

Tucked between the Wisła and the city center, Powiśle’s resurgence was seemingly rubber stamped earlier in February when the district found itself listed sixth in The Guardian’s Top Ten rundown of “Europe’s Coolest Neighborhoods”. Praised for its carnival-like summer scene, the riverfront boulevards were highlighted as one of its principal attractions, with further points of interest including the area’s rooftop library gardens and the adjacent Copernicus Science Centre. Further hat tips were afforded to the Veg Deli vegan restaurant, cult clothing store Femi Stories, Moma Studio, and Kuba Wojewódzki’s upmarket hangout Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0. Once a no-man’s land of tumbling tenements and

deserted factories, what had traditionally been a bastion of the working class has enjoyed a remarkable turnaround in fortunes in recent times with ongoing gentrification enriching the district with swanky apartment complexes and fashionable bistros. Despite that, the area has maintained a strong sense of identity with its blue collar roots finding themselves organically intertwined with the creative leanings of the neighborhood’s new habitants. Of the other area’s namechecked by The Guardian, Gothenburg’s Järntorget / Långgatorna was top of the pile, followed by the University Quarter in Brussels and El Cabanyal in Valencia. Other notable entrants included Berlin’s Neukölln and Prague’s Holešovice. warsawinsider.pl

IN FRONT

HOLIDAY

Say It With Flowers

With International Women’s Day falling on March 8th, we look back on the origins of the holiday…

hile the origins of International Women’s Day can be traced to 1909 – and, specifically, a New York demonstration protesting low wages – it is the date’s association with the Soviet Union that’s arguably the bestknown of all. The story is thus: in 1917, a Women’s Day march

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

in St. Petersburg on the last Sunday of February (March 8th, for those using the Gregorian calendar) lit the touch paper for the February Revolution – the first of two revolutions that would eventually lead to Lenin seizing power. In a sign of recognition, the Soviet Union’s founding father later installed it as a national holiday.

With an Iron Curtain drawn across half of Europe in the post-war years, the Soviets introduced Women’s Day to Poland in 1948. Yet while it was no doubt intended as a propaganda stunt – a vehicle to hail the achievements of women under the new regime – Dzień Kobiet was quickly embraced by the Polish public. With slogans like ‘a flower for Ewa’ drummed into them, it soon became de rigueur for gents to spoil the women in their lives with a red carnation and hard-to-find items such as coffee, dishcloths, stockings or chocolate. Although the holiday was discreetly dropped from the official calendar in 1993, it remains a popular vestige of the past that survives and thrives. Having largely shed its more radical connotations, today’s holiday has morphed into something more mainstream, with some moved to describe it as “a cross between Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day”. As such males in Poland ignore it at their peril, for overlooking the ceremony of flower giving is a firm guarantee of the cold shoulder treatment.

SHUTTERSTOCK

" With slogans like ‘a flower for Ewa’ drummed into them, it soon became de rigueur for gents to spoil the women in their lives with a red carnation and hardto-find items such as coffee, dishcloths, stockings or chocolate

SPECIAL TASTING MENU FOR READERS OF WARSAW INSIDER BOTTLE OF CHINESE WINE MOSER XV FOR FREE!

+48 512 671 756 kontakt@panska85.com.pl panska85.com

IN FRONT

Park Life

The Living Dead

Warsaw has become the second city in Europe to install traffic lights aimed at stopping ‘smartphone zombies’ from straying onto the road. Fitted in the suburb of Ursynów, the pilot program will see lights projected onto pavements in front of pedestrian crossings to warn smartphone addicts of oncoming traffic. Poland currently has the third highest number of pedestrian fatalities in the EU with 285 people killed in 2018.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Going Underground

City Hall has splashed zł. 1.3 billion to purchase 45 metro trains from Skoda, the largest such order in its history. Set to be delivered in autumn of 2021, the environmentally friendly trains will each have a capacity to hold 1,500 passengers.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: CITY OF WARSAW (2), SHUTTERSTOCK

Able to do the work of 50 traffic wardens, two electric cars have been unleashed on the streets of Warsaw to keep order on the sidewalks. Armed with a system of sensors, the cars have the capability of checking 260 vehicles every 90-minutes and are the latest weapon in City Hall’s ongoing battle with irresponsible drivers.

FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAY & SATURDAY R ES TAU RA N T 19:00-23:00

NIGHTLIFE 23:00-05:00

RESERVATIONS mob. +48 883 025 025 reservations@senwarsaw.pl Wioślarska 6 | 00-411 Warsaw senwarsaw.pl

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T THE BESFOOD AN AMERICARS AW IN W Brooklyn House is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous screens. You think burgers and steaks – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

Jana Pawła II 18 00-116 Warsaw Reservation: + 48 22 114 34 34

find us:

/Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar /BrooklynRestaurantandBar /@brooklyn_burgersnsteaks warsawinsider.pl

IN FRONT

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

INTERNATIONAL

The FROZEN One A one-to-one scale replica of Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle stole the show at Sapporo’s annual Snow Festival after being unveiled as part of celebrations held to celebrate the centenary of Polish-Japanese diplomatic relations. Carved entirely from ice, it took 100 soldiers just twenty-eight days to recreate the 17th century Warsaw landmark; forming part of a ‘Polish square’, the sculpture was joined by a similarly elaborate icy reproduction of the park’s Chopin monument. Held annually since 1950, the two week spectacle attracted two million visitors with this year’s event presenting around 200 ice sculptures in all.

warsawinsider.pl

C U LT U R E

THE LIGHT

FANTASTIC !

An inside look at Warsaw’s Neon Museum… PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

C U R ATO R ' S N OT E

Hidden Glory? “Ambasador Restauracja. This neon once adorned a restaurant that the top politicians, dignitaries and ambassadors of the day used to frequent. To our sheer joy and amazement, the sign was donated to us by none other than His Excellency Ronald Dofing – the Luxembourg Ambassador to Poland. Basically, it was his favorite restaurant – when it closed, he saved the sign.”

requently cited as being “Warsaw’s most Instagrammed attraction”, one would be forgiven for thinking that the city’s Neon Museum existed solely to advance your standing on social media. That, though, would be missing the point. Founded in 2012 as the result of one couple’s passion for this exquisite form of art, the museum has become a trailblazing catalyst whose launch effectively reactivated Poland’s obsession with neon – what was a dying discipline became once again hip. “At first, myself and my partner, Ilona Karwinska, thought we were documenting the end of Polish neon,” says David Hill, co-founder of the museum, “but from quite early on we both realized we had happened upon something quite important.” With a professional background heavily rooted in typography, Hill’s first trip to the Polish capital in 2005 left him struck silent by the old neon signs that illuminated the city. With Karwinska, an acclaimed fine arts photographer, searching for a new project, the couple found themselves sufficiently inspired to travel the country and record all the neons they could find before they vanished for good. Met with unexpected enthusiasm by the general public, when they subsequently published a book recording their adventyres the couple found themselves inundated with tips regarding the neons they had missed. Even more surprisingly, they began fielding calls from shopkeepers asking if they wanted to take ownership of signs destined for the scrapyard. “All of a sudden,” says Hill, “we went from being observers to actively engaged in the preservation of neon.” With their collection mounting up, opening a museum wasn’t a far-fetched idea. It was a decision that would be ultimately justified by the public’s response. Hailed in titles such as Wallpaper*, Vogue, Tatler and Time, it has since become a cult port-of-call, drawing an estimated 5,000 visitors per month to become one of the city’s quirkiest draws. In the process, its popularity has sparked a countrywide revival with a customized neon now seen as an affirmation of cool by every independent business. Although the presence of neon in Warsaw predates the war, it was the Communist era that saw this luminous form of advertising come to the fore. Connecting the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the project to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw the country’s shattered post-war cities transformed by gleaming lights manufactured by the top artisans of the period. In the decades that followed, these magnificent technicolor glories became an underlying feature of the nation’s DNA. The fall of the Iron Curtain cut short the country’s love affair with neon. Seen as an outdated reminder of the bad days, the signs that were once such an intrinsic element of the nightscape found themselves phased out and replaced by blunter forms of advertising. That is until Hill and Karwinska had a lightbulb moment… >>> warsawinsider.pl

C U LT U R E

It All Began With… “Berlin! Originally we just intended to photograph Warsaw’s old neon signs, but when we learned that Pl. Konstytucji’s Berlin was about to be destroyed we immediately contacted the owners and pleaded with them to save the sign. Eventually persuaded, they donated it to us. That was the moment the project took a major turn for us: we went from being observers to activists.”

The pink mermaid encapsulates the entire neon collection for us: a beautifully designed neon symbol with such a rich and interesting history

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

We Could Stare All Day At… “Our giant, pink Syrenka. Wherever you saw this mermaid – sitting on an open book – was where you would have found your local public library. She encapsulates the entire neon collection for us: a beautifully designed neon symbol with such a rich and interesting history.”

You Wouldn’t Guess… “We thought that the Kino Praha neon that once adorned Praga’s famous cinema had been destroyed along with the building back in 2004 – so four years later imagine our surprise when we received a call from a farmer who had been involved in the demolition. Amazingly, he’d had the foresight to save the letters and rang us to say we were free to take them! Our excitement was tempered a little by the fact that the letters had been left to rot in farmyard muck, but a full restoration soon removed all trace of this brief but ignominious exile. It goes without saying, we’re wholeheartedly grateful to this farmer!”

Everyone Loves… “Probably the most adored sign in our possession is Kubuś Puchatek, a.k.a. Winnie the Pooh. He originally signposted a now defunct toy shop in Poznań, and although it’s pretty small it’s the one neon that everyone seems to want their picture taken with.”

What A Pain! “All of our signs have challenged us in one way or another, however, the most technically complex and expensive restoration was saved for Mydła Farby. Having been first erected in the early 1960s, the elements had almost completely dissolved the sign by the time it fell into our hands. Our neon specialists treated the project as if they were recovering Tutankhamun!”

Sign Of The Times “This has to be the absolutely astonishing typographical triumph that is Społem. Taken from the PRL era supermarket that once stood on Marszałkowska, when the building was bulldozed the owners fully restored and generously donated the sign to us: it’s actually one of the largest in our museum! For us it’s representative of a time when the public were given new ways to shop and were encouraged to believe that an economic revival was in full swing.”

warsawinsider.pl

HISTORY

BACK TO THE FUTURE! Fusing high-tech with extensive historical research, an archaeologist has brought the ancient settlement of Bródno back to life…

hallenge a local to describe Bródno, and it’s likely that even the most patriotic resident would mumble “grey”. Noted largely for its gloomy tower blocks and anonymous estates, not many would naturally associate the northern Warsaw suburb with ancient history, but that stands to change with the release of a digital reconstruction charting its beginnings. Financed by City Hall, and born from the painstaking efforts of Mateusz Osiadacz, an archaeologist and computer graphic, the project presents a 3D reconstruction of what is known to be the first stronghold to be built in the area covered by modern day Warsaw. Though it remains unclear as to exactly when the area was initially settled, what is known is that around about the end of the 10th century or the beginning of

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

the 11th century, the pagan tribe residing in the area constructed a fortification inside which they could retreat lest they come under attack. “This fortification comprised of an embankment made from wood and earth and would have been around eight to eight and a half meters wide and between five and a half meters to six in height,” says Osiadacz. “Building that would have required a huge effort and it seems likely that it was built to counter the threat of the Piast state which was growing in strength and occupying new territories. The construction of the stronghold was, therefore, probably motivated by the community’s desire to maintain independence.” The historical significance of the fort cannot be emphasized enough. “Not only was it the oldest known medieval settlement to have been discovered on the footprint of today’s Warsaw,” continues Osiadacz, “it

MATEUSZ OSIADACZ 'S 3D RECONSTRUCTION

Architectural relics indicate that its construction did not change the egalitarian social structure of this settlement and did not effect the emergence of a strong central authority

Mateusz Osiadacz’s 3D reimagining of the ancient settlement in Bródno takes users back through time and to a crucial crossroads of Polish history.

can also be viewed as one of the last accords of the old tribal order.” With the country’s unification looming, the fort existed at a unique turning point in history. As importantly, with the area continuously inhabited following the arrival of this tribe, its members could, at a stretch, be labelled as the original forefathers of the modern Varsovian. Despite its key role in the city’s history, only relatively recently have historians looked to build their understanding of the Bródno settlement. In fact, its mere existence was only first revealed in 1916 on account of the discoveries made by Roman Jakimowicz, a celebrated academic that would later find fame as the founder of the State Archaeological Museum. Still, his findings were riddled with assumptions and errors and it was only in the decades that followed that a more accurate picture was established thanks to excavations overseen by Krystyna Musianowicz in the

40s and 60s. “Architectural relics indicate that its construction did not change the egalitarian social structure of this settlement and did not effect the emergence of a strong central authority,” says Osiadacz. “The buildings were of a similar size and scattered loosely and no objects have been found that suggest the crystallization and formation of elites. We can also probably assume that the community did not practice Christianity.” Contrary to wider belief, the fort was never used as a permanent residence, but instead as a place of storage and an emergency refuge in the event of battle. As such, homes and workshops were scattered around the perimeter of the fort which itself was wrecked in a blaze at some point during the first half of the 11th century. Following the blaze – which most historians presume was the result of an attempted incursion >>> warsawinsider.pl

HISTORY

by Piast forces – the settlement continued to prosper until the end of the century when its occupants dispersed to the south west. Basing his digital reconstruction on post-war research and available archival materials, Osiadacz’s computerized animation was a complex multi-stage process that also necessitated the filming of overhead footage and 3D scans of the area. After performing theoretical reconstructions, he then transferred his models into the ‘game engine’ after which the natural environment and final film shots were added. “The big challenge,” he says, “was forming the reconstruction of so many objects of which only scant remains have been preserved. When it came to re-imagining the ramparts and the stronghold’s gate, there were many different concepts from which I had to choose the most likely.” Along the way there were surprises as well, the

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

For further details, see: 3d4history.com

biggest of which were represented by the sheer differences and changes to the environment. “In those days,” he notes, “I found that the area was very wet, and that could well have played a role in the defensive qualities of the fortress as well as facilitated communication by boat during times of high-water levels.” The result of his work has been stunning, and Osiadacz is optimistic that his utilization of multimedia technology will help raise Bródno’s historic profile to a new generation. “In my opinion I think it’s the best tool for both visualizing and popularizing the results of archaeological research,” he says. “I wanted this film to show who our ancestors were and, given the importance of Bródno in the context of Warsaw’s history, I think that it’s the best way to connect to the past. That the results of all this historical research can now be presented in a manner that is accessible yet also historically reliable is brilliant.”

TO THE TROPICS AND BACK – IN LESS THAN AN HOUR

The age of Concorde is over and the time of teleportation has not begun – but that’s not stopping the citizens of Warsaw from enjoying tropical waters and exotic climes! Set just 35 minutes from the city center, that’s thanks to Suntago, the largest indoor water park found anywhere in Europe. Just opened in Wręcza, near Mszczonów, Suntago is the first stage of the project called Park of Poland. With temperatures tuned to 32°C all year around, and 740 palms plucked from Florida, Malaysia and Costa Rica, the stunning complex features several pools, 32 simply awesome slides, ten saunas, five restaurants and a spa – and that’s the tip of the iceberg! Despite its immense size and energetic thrills, Suntago promises a chilled out holiday atmosphere that’s high on laidback vibes. Inside, find half of the space occupied by Jamango, a zone filled with pools, slides and waves for guests of all ages, and the other occupied by the over-16s zones Relax and Saunaria – it’s in these where you’ll find pool bars, saunas and wellness facilities like no other. And if you want to make a stay of it, keep an eye out for the 92 bungalows to be revealed this spring as part of Suntago Village!

Park of Poland

ul. Nowy Świat 1, 96-300 Wręcza, Polska www.parkofpoland.com, kontakt@parkofpoland.com Open: Mon-Fri 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat-Sun 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. (holidays 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.) Tickets: zł. 59 (adults) & zł. 39 (kids)

warsawinsider.pl

DESIGN

A Well Refined… Logo

esearched and written by graphic designer Patryk Hardziej, a new book has sought to explore the original back story behind the branding of CPN, a state monopoly that controlled all of the country’s petrol stations during the PRL period.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

With Nazi Germany on the brink of defeat, the institution was first formed in 1944 to secure Poland’s crude oil infrastructure. Christened CPN (Centrala Produktów Naftowych) in December of the following year, the 60s saw the group take a pioneering step when Ryszard Bojar, Jerzy Solik and Jerzy Słowikowski devised both a logo and an entire visual identity for

the firm. Crowning every service station in the country for a period of several decades, and used until 1999 (when the company was finally deleted from the Commercial Register), their work became iconic. Now, following a chance meeting between Hardziej and Bojar at a graphic exhibition, a book titled CPN: Logo, Identity, History has been published charting the full story.

PRESS MATERIALS

Celebrating the development of one of the best-known logos of Poland’s communist era, a new book delves into the story behind the branding of CPN, the state-run petrol institution…

“Basically,” says Hardziej, “Ryszard Bojar was one of the first to use a systemic approach to visual identity in Central Eastern Europe. CPN was the manifestation of a modernist approach to corporate image design in Poland, and thanks to the amount of material Bojar had archived in his basement, we were able to dig up plenty of sources.” Based largely around CPN’s ‘brand

book’ – which in itself was the first of its kind in Poland – the resulting book is a tribute to the frontier-pushing work of Bojar and his associates. “CPN was remarkable on several layers,” says Hardziej, “and not just because Poland saw the introduction of a brand book or systemic design for the first time, but also because of how the logo even came about in the first place.”

Having designed and developed a new fuel pump in 1965, Bojar and his team of Solik and Słowikowski came to the realization that the company logo (a relic from 1945) felt outdated when splashed on their work. Deciding to redesign the logo in a way that was modernist yet structured whilst also requiring as little paint as possible to reproduce, the trio came up with their landmark design. “Whilst the fuel pump never entered mass production,” says Hardziej, “the logo was loved by all that saw it and soon enough, CPN had branded themselves with it.” Enshrined as the biggest firm in the country at that time, it was highly likely that such a spectacular rebranding would have happened sooner or later. Even so, CPN’s reinvention had another effect in that it opened the floodgates for a host of other Polish firms to start playing with design, thereby sparking a wave of creativity that is lauded to this day. “Back when everything was state-owned there was no competition,” says Hardziej, “so graphic designers weren’t under pressure to attract clients or sell products. They simply busied themselves creating nice, small artworks that could decorate a product. Because of that, they were able to work with greater finesse, and look upon themselves more as artists than craftsmen.” For more on Patryk and his work, see: hardziej.com warsawinsider.pl

PHOTOGRAPH GOSIA TURCZYÅ&#x192;SKA

WOMEN OF F&B

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Flavia Of The Month…

Named Poland’s top female chef in the latest edition of the Gault & Millau awards, the Insider catches up with Opasły Tom’s head chef, Flavia Borawska…

WI: Is there a difference between a male and female run kitchen? FB: I don’t look at gender, I just want to work with people who have the skills and discipline to work in a kitchen. I don’t view a kitchen as being run by a man or a woman, I view it as being run by an individual. Sure, kitchens are largely 80 to 90% male, but there’s some brilliant, strong women working in this industry. You were crowned Best Female Chef at the most recent installment of the Gault & Millau awards. Don’t such awards simply highlight the gender gap? I think the editor-in-chief explained it very diplomatically – simply, in order to have more female chefs, we need to promote them. In many ways, yes, the existence of a “Best Female” award is a little absurd, but there’s no doubt that we need to inspire women and show that restaurant kitchens aren’t just a male zone. At the end of the day it was a great honor to receive the prize, and a reflection on the whole team. When did you first realize you were destined to be a chef? Food was always an important part of my upbringing, but I think my parents knew I’d be a chef before I did. When I was 19 or 20, I remember my mum calling to tell me about an internship at this amazing Tuscan restaurant. At the time I was just kind of drifting in life so I figured why not give it a try – within days I was addicted to the adrenaline of the kitchen. The stresses of the job, the long hours and hard work are well publicized, but I just fell in love with the bond you get in the kitchen. It’s a fraternity of sorts, and one of the most beautiful things you could imagine.

Your heritage is Polish, Italian with bits of Greek, Swiss and British – how has that influenced your ‘cooking personality’? For one, there was never a dull meal growing up! All these years on, and the little tips and tricks I learned will occasionally sneak onto my menus.

silly enough to ignore breakfast totally and just live on liters of coffee. Now I’m older, and hopefully wiser, I’ll make myself a sandwich. On a day off, you know what I love doing? Getting good bread, good charcuterie, and then indulging in my own private sandwich festival!

Your last meal would be… In Tuscany, with my grandparents. For food, there’d be pasta with basil, parmesan and tomato sauce made from veg picked fresh from the garden. Perfect.

The Insider’s fridge has last night’s kebab and a can of beer – how about you… There’s not much: always butter, always wine. Parmesan as well. With some good parmesan you can do 300 things!

For you, what is the perfect restaurant experience about? We work in the hospitality industry, so whether you’re a small food truck or a fine dining restaurant: please, make people feel good. That’s why they’re there in the first place. Give them good service, a smile – but nothing overwhelming – and a meal that is honest and delicious. We’ve met chefs that, secretly, love a Big Mac. There’s others who try and make us believe they eat only the best. Any food vices you’re ready to confess? Ooh, I’ve got many guilty pleasures, and there’s a few times you’ll find me stepping into a fast food joint. My biggest weakness though, that’s fried chicken. Come on, it’s the ultimate comfort food! All chefs reckon that breakfast is for wimps, right? When I was young, it was all about Marmite on toast, bacon and eggs: at the time, that was the ultimate food for me! After, for a long while, I was

You’ve worked in kitchens across the world – what brought you (and keeps you) in Warsaw… Warsaw and I began liking each other again a few years ago. When I returned from my stint abroad, everything had changed. The product had changed. The vibe of the city. We fell behind other countries because of the war and then communism, so there was a bit of rebirth necessary. As a country, we had to regain our identity, but that’s now happened. We’ve not only rediscovered our cooking culture, but we’ve also seen we can carry it off. We’re good enough. The culinary revolution we’re undergoing is huge, and to just play a tiny role in it is an amazing feeling. I want a job with you! What do I need to do? Have respect. Respect for other people, respect for the guest, respect for the product. You’ve got five words to describe your cooking. Shoot… Simple, seasonal, honest – I hope! warsawinsider.pl

WOMEN OF F&B Both MOD and ReginaBar are hugely fashionable; was setting trends the intention? We loved the whole ‘creation’ process when launching our restaurants and I think the atmosphere in both shows our attention to detail. Regardless of how good the food is, if the atmosphere isn’t right then your evening just isn’t the same. Creating is definitely ‘our thing’, but of course we would never have got where we are without the team behind us.

Hole-some Girls!

Hugely popular and endlessly hip, MOD and ReginaBar have long been seen as among the coolest spots in town. Besties since childhood, owners Kamila and Patrycja talk about Warsaw's restaurant scene and more…

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

WI: How did it all begin! K & P: I was daydreaming in lectures one time and all I could think of was the donuts I used to eat when me and Patrycja lived in New York. I texted her in class saying that we needed donuts like that in Warsaw and that’s where it started. Easy, huh? We always wanted to start a business together, but being new to Warsaw we knew our idea of a marketing agency wouldn’t work without having the right contacts. So we went for donuts instead. We were looking for an address, and at the same time Tris (MOD’s chef) was also looking for a place. We found a spot on Oleandrów but it was too big just for us so we figured it’d be best if the three of us joined forces.

What do you love about the industry? The dynamism of it all. Things happen so fast you really need to think on your feet and be prepared for anything – it’s hectic, and in that respect, it’s like living in NYC! If you asked us about the unexpected challenges we’ve faced, the truth is absolutely nothing has turned out as we expected. Looking back, we really had no idea what we were getting ourselves into: our mission this year is to finally find a better work-life balance! How has the industry changed since you became involved? More and more people are going out – also, their general awareness has changed. Four years ago when we opened MOD people thought we were a bit weird for serving natural wines, now they’re everywhere. Likewise, ramen – it’s hard to believe but that was a new thing for Poland at the time. Is there anything you would do differently? In hindsight, we’d probably have waited to be a little more financially stable before opening ReginaBar, but we don’t see it as a regret at all. If anything, it was a good lesson! In all honesty you’ll never hear us saying “this was our best day”, or, “that was our biggest disaster”. Every day brings either a valuable lesson or lots of fun!

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE COURTESY OF AGNIESZKA ROJEWSKA

Do you find Warsaw’s restaurant segment is dominated by men? The common preconception is of a guy at the head of a kitchen, but to be honest we’ve never felt that they’re the dominant entity. Just look at how many women are involved in the scene here: Kasia and Sylwia at Bar Pacyfik, the sisters at Charlotte, Maja and Basia at Vegan Ramen Shop… the list could go on forever!

How You Brewin’?

Winner of the 2018 edition of the World Barista Championship, Agnieszka Rojewska spills the beans on the coffee industry in Poland… WI: What advice would you give to someone looking to become a barista? AR: Prepare for a lot of ups and downs... You’re not going to earn loads of money and you’ll have your patience stretched to the max, but if you’re ready for all that then it’s definitely worth a crack! How does the specialty coffee scene here compare to the other countries

you travel to? First, we should be really proud of what’s happened here! We’re growing in our knowledge and appreciation of specialty coffee, and we’re growing pretty fast – across Poland we’re seeing new coffee shops with quality coffee and skilled baristas, not to mention new roasteries with strong plans and exciting ideas. On top of that, Poles really enjoy learning about coffee and are open to new flavors. What we still lack though, is something I would call a “Polish coffee style”. We’re getting there, but we’re still not where the Nordic nations, Italy, America or Australia are. What can we do better? We can be more open to dialogue; we need to do more to help people get into coffee whilst also improving our customer service. If you’re happy making coffee, people are going to follow that vibe.

What coffee trends do you foresee in 2020, both in Poland and abroad? Tricky… There’ll be new processes and new flavors developed, but what I myself can’t wait for are changes that give a better control over extraction methods. That’s going to happen entirely because of improvements in the automatic machine sector, as well as the growing knowledge of people involved in the coffee industry. Specialty coffee is booming massively in Poland – surely there’s a ceiling? Of course there’s a ceiling, that’s the nature of life! I suspect that the boom will run its course soon and we’ll find that the places that simply jumped onto the ‘coffee trend’ will close. For sure I see the scene settling down over the next few years. Do you have a coffee ritual at home? Actually, I don’t even drink it at home! warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

First Bite

ON A WING & A PRAYER

As if delivered from the heavens, the wingmen of Warsaw have a new house of worshipâ&#x20AC;¦

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EAT! News

FOODIE NEWS

ON A ROLL

A jillion times cheaper than The Farm next door, Foodie Rollins (Mokotowska 8) has opened to give the street another timely lift. And boy, we just love it. Decorated with comic art doodles, head up the stairs to order from the kind of tattooed Viking you know you can trust to handle your street food. From the choices, we went with The Notorious P.I.G. porchetta sandwich and a beef flank taco and loved ’em both. Specializing in high quality, loaded-to-the-hilt sandwiches, this meat-fest will get even better when they obtain their license: “our alcoholic shakes are gonna’ blow your mind,” we were promised as we left. We don’t doubt it.

Zkurczybyk ul. Poznańska 7

THE K-HOLE

A couple of years back you’d have found us backing Korean as ‘The Next Big Thing’. Didn’t work out quite that way, but there’s still hope yet for the forecast to bear fruit – certainly, there is when places like K-Bar Piękna open (Piękna 28/34). Fusing the function of a vintage furniture store with that of a supremely cool resto-bar, find this nonstandard space firing out brilliantly perverted dishes such as Korean Fried Cauliflower, Kimcheese Beef Bavette and cheesecake with yuzu and pear. Matched with highly unconventional Asian-themed cocktails and you have a place that you know will fare better at this address than its long list of predecessors.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT FOODIE NEWS FACEBOOK

escribed by The Guardian as “God’s greatest gift to the planet”, the Buffalo wing (so named after the city, not the horned beast), has finally flapped its way to Warsaw. Well, okay, it’s visited here before, but the impact it’s made has barely registered up until now. So wait, what happened? Principally, it’s all been down to the emergence of places treating fried chicken not as a junk food but a slow food – and in this regard, no-one’s done a better job than the boys at Zkurczybyk. And slow it might prove to be – on occasion, we’ve been subjected to nightmare waiting times in excess of 45-minutes. But here’s the thing, in spite of all that complaints are unheard of. Who’d dare after enjoying the kind of hot wings you thought only existed in a dream. Roll in for beautifully juicy chicken inside a crispy, crunchy coat smothered and slathered in an array of sauces ranging from mango-chilli to classic hot; savagely messy, these are things of near profound, holy beauty. Not in the mood for wings? No problem. Instead, wrap your jaw around buttery, meaty sandwiches the size of a breeze block, or order up fries whose names say it all: silly fries, bull fries, cheesy fries or smokey. So unexpectedly crazy ass is the quality, we’ve seen one friend sufficiently moved to write a tearful 900-word eulogy on his Facebook. Yep, this place does funny things to people. Created, reputedly, by a Polish-American lad who spent time in Pittsburgh, everything about this place feels right for the hour. And food aside, the hip hop / steam punk vibe (corrugated iron sheets, stools with bicycle pedals for foot rests, ammo boxes, and turntables emblazoned with music heroes), jives well with an atmosphere that’s high on banter and bravado. Leaving, it’s in a state of shellshock: “how good,” you ask yourself, “has Warsaw just become.”

EAT! Review

MISSION: ACCOMPLISHED!

Born in San Francisco half-a-century back, the “Mission burrito” has touched down in Warsaw… Where Am I?

You’ll find more elbow room on a submarine, but the tight dimensions of MariCruz simply add to the atmosphere. Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Here, rough-hewn, peeling plaster walls come adorned with bursts of neon and pops of stencil-like street art, lending this compact room a hip, raw feel whose ambiance is amplified further by the bangs and crashes that ring out from the kitchen. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of backdrop when dealing with hand-held food.

Serve Me Up…

You could write the full menu out on the back of your hand and still have room to add a few doodles – but who needs anything more than a burrito and homemade nachos? Serving three types of Mission burrito (inc. an option to ‘build your own’), the best-selling Alcatraz sees shredded beef marinated for five-hours then cooked over eight before being squashed inside a tortilla along with heaps of the usual accoutrements. But what’s with the “Mission” part? That sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max. And packed to the max it is – held together in aluminum foil, the result is a supermax burrito brimming with deliciously sloppy ingredients. Squirt out some extra hot salsa from the squeezy bottles on the table and you have something to remember. MariCruz_mission burrito ul. Zgoda 3, Maricruz.pl

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EAT! review

THAT’S WHAT I’M TOLKIEN ABOUT! The Mordor restaurant that’s got everyone talking…

If the area’s unofficial handle, Mordor, was once seen as a sly jibe coined by outsiders, today it’s a title that’s been defiantly embraced by locals and workers alike. No longer a slur, but a tag worn with pride, Służewiec (to give its legitimate name) has confounded the critics by fighting back and showing itself as a place with its own distinct personality. Why do you need to know this as a precursor to a restaurant review? Well, because whilst everyone knows how the area got its reputation, not everyone is aware of quite how far it’s changed. And, being specific, that’s down to a number of people and places that have gone the extra yard. Places like Bocca Bistro & Bar.

The Place

A swipe of the curtain draped over the entrance takes you to a world far removed from the office blocks outside – a relaxed sanctuary, the lounge-like vibe is emphasized through the generous use of comfortable armchairs, warm lighting, plush fabrics and so forth. And with a fireplace and pool table also present, everything about this place screams, “leave work outside!” Devised by the owners Dagna Preis-Przepiórska and Robert Przepiórski along with Studio 370 – who have become

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

one of the most influential forces in domestic restaurant design – it’s a space which takes people away from everyday life and transports them somewhere special.

Need To Know

Cooking for you is Kamil Kędzierski, a face you’ll already be familiar with on the off-chance you follow the bundle of food shows on Polish TV. Appearing on Top Chef last year, Kędzierski was one of the more controversial characters to appear on the program. Having since joined Bocca Bar, craft beer fiends are also likely to know him as the chap who once fronted the kitchen at the Old Town’s highly-rated Maryensztadt bar.

On The Menu

There are those who use Bocca Bar as… a bar. And there’s nothing wrong in doing so yourself. The drinks here won’t let you down, whether it’s a craft beer you’re after or something more elegant – house cocktails, for instance, like Tommy’s Margarita or Hemingway’s Daquiri. But overlooking the food when there’s someone of the caliber of Kamil Kędzierski prowling the kitchen is an offence that should be made punishable by death – or, at the very least, a good strong word.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Background

Bocca Bistro & Bar ul. Postępu 14, boccabar.pl

Demonstrating a palette that’s as adventurous as it is sophisticated, this is cooking that screams of talent: respectful of product yet also with enough dash and daring to make it stand out. It would be no exaggeration to say that the Insider ordered up around fifteen dishes, and each stood proud as something to remember – thymus with caviar; a pickled cabbage soup with horseradish mash and chunks of beef shank that melt in the mouth; and a tomato consommé sprinkled with flakes of Bursztyn cheese. And that’s just the starters; moving on, duck breast and duck leg win praise for the different ways they are treated, whilst guineafowl is made all the better for a side of rich blackberry chutney. Polished in presentation and big in its tastes, its food that is ambitious, bold and keen to impress – and this it goes. That Kędzierski is a clever cook is, at this stage, abundantly apparent, but were there any doubt then its instantly dispelled with the arrival of dessert. Loosening the belts, we dive into a brownie whose decadent flavors are offset by the welcome neutrality of a beer ice cream, before cracking into a goat’s cheesecake and raspberry mousse. Immensely satisfying, it’s meals like this for which you happily travel town – to Mordor included...

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 32 bakeries 32 balkan 32 chinese 32 comfort food 33 desserts 34 fine dining 35 food halls & happenings 38 french 37 georgian 39 greek & turkish 39 hungarian 40 indian 40 international 41 italian 44 japanese 45 korean 48 latin & spanish 49 mexican 50 middle eastern 50 polish 51 scandinavian 57 seafood 57 specialty food 57 steak houses 58 thai 58 ukrainian & russian 58 vegan 53 vietnamese 58

consistency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their

SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

bakeries

Rano The rise of Stalowa street is to be taken seriously, and the existence of Rano is one rather good reason. Looking – and smelling – like you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to be, the standard is such that a number of the city’s top restaurants have begun ordering from here. You will as well. ul. Stalowa 47

balkan

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

EAT! Listings comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22

find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1

Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats,

Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking

Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl

rant, ha s of ng ’s the nish to preember m l d sh Royal

As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!

2019

your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with fear. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos are ably supported by a choice of alternative sauces aimed at people who don’t view dining as an extreme sport. (H3) ul. Francuska 8

and ue. hed n ginal ar tes’, or the pork ce of esn’t ect, oodie scalePl. zawa),

Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts

Le Cedre Lounge

t, ist, moer , he ver ad to ess cook.pl

Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

rsastive ll tc. x

El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space

www.lecedre.pl

EAT! Listings

| MARCH 2020 Warsaw Insider warsawinsider.pl

of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 Frank Warszawa Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul.

Polna 18/20 Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul. Mokotowska 52 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62

EAT! Listings MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Muus Inside a pretty pink interior adorned with gold trim and big, bold succulents, this bijou space could have been designed with Instagram in mind – and as perfect as it is to look at, it’s even more perfect to nibble on. Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, pistachio cheesecake, mango & passionfruit tart – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading. (E3) ul. Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long,

sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing

weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense

Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings account meetings. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere. com.pl Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka.restaurant Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and

ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl

PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz

EAT! Listings Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. Over

summer, we loved the elegant tomatobased starter, the prime beef rib served as a main, and the sorrel and mint parfait that arrived at the end. In this case, the rave reports seem fully justified. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12

Many Happy Returns! Promoting the flavors of ‘New Ukrainian’ cuisine, Kanapa’s Warsaw branch celebrated their second birthday in January with a lavish ceremony attended by restaurateur Dmytro Borysov and Olena Borysova, the company’s CEO. Considered one of the flagship projects of our firm, the idea for Kanapa was born from a 2011 visit to Noma: eating the food of Rene Redzepi was akin to entering a different reality – enjoying inspirational cuisine prepared using local products and encompassing a real sense of love, we knew immediately that we wanted to replicate that philosophy in our native Ukraine. Searching for likeminded people, the team we assembled rewrote the rules of Ukrainian cooking and, over time, helped shift our domestic culinary culture forward. Along the way, we’ve learned that only Italy truly rivals Ukraine in terms of its bountiful produce, and our success would never have been possible were it not for our close collaboration with approximately 100 farms spread around the nation. Spreading the word to Poland was something of a dream, but the 80,000 diners that have enjoyed our Warsaw venture since its launch are proof that our mission has been successful. But this is just the beginning: aiming to introduce even more seasonal changes to our menu, our other plans for 2020 include gastro festivals that pay tribute to the different regions of both Ukraine and Poland; intimate chef nights; and an even bigger selection of boutique wines. More so, we look forward to implementing principles of zero waste. Kanapa ul. Narbutta 10, tel. 22 400 88 33

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

Fort 8 Warsaw’s penchant for reviving historical addresses and injecting them with bold food concepts shows no sign of abating: for latest proof, refer to Fort 8, a 19th century Tsarist barracks since reimagined as a complex housing workshops, stores and restaurants. Belonging to the latter group find, among others, Dziurka Od Klucza (already famed for their Powiśle venture), Garo Sushi, Fort Whisky and Fort Bistro. With more openings set to follow, and a location bordering Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów, this could yet emerge as the area’s F&B anchor. ul. Fort Służew 1B, fort8.pl

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EAT! Listings

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead. The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul. Wilcza 26 Leo’s Marani An ambitious newbie launched in July,

Leo’s Marani mixes Georgian and Armenian flavors to present a menu that feels slightly more novel than the others: for example, refer to lamb chops marinated in coffee, cognac and pomegranate juice. Other success stories involve the Armenian-caught trout and huge shashlik sets for two. Not all reviews have been glowing, but there’s much to suggest that any inconsistencies stand to be ironed out over time. Early days yet, but most who visit end up promising to return. ul. Marszałkowska 85 Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is

thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments. Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16 Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly

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EAT! Listings admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, fb.com/sofra. warszawa

hungarian Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Bombaj Masala Praga Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here

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involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala.pl/praga Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the

EAT! Listings experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky

pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and

Dawne Smaki Restaurant Traditional Polish cuisine

Serving traditional Polish dishes of the very highest quality at Dawne Smaki we offer more than just magnificent cuisine. Well linked to both metro lines and easily accessible from all corners of the city, our central location on one of Warsaw’s most prestigious streets is ideal for meetings and events that are sure to make an impact! ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel: 22 465 83 20, info@dawnesmak.pl, www.dawnesmaki.pl

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EAT! Listings clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than

just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com

introduced Agata Wojda as head chef. Her presence adds a finesse to a place formerly recognized as a primordial celebration of meat and brawn. A hymn to Poland’s rural resources, her cooking bridges fanciful sophistication with homely familiarity. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8, fest.rest

Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5

Fest Port Czerniakowski There are those that claim Fest’s best months are in summer, and sure, their argument is convincing: hidden down twisting roads flanked by glinting waters and thick, tangled woodland, it’s an unexpected picture of pastoral bliss. But make no mistake, winter ain’t bad either. A general restyling hasn’t just given this timber cabin a lighter look, but also

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jackof-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect

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EAT! Listings tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using

the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Projekt 44 Warsaw’s credentials as a global city look all the stronger for places like Projekt 44, a chic-casual spot rooted at the bottom of Daniel Liebeskind’s landmark Złota 44 tower. Heavy on raw materials and moodily-adjusted lighting, the background goes well with a rounded menu offering a 360 view of international cuisine: vegan poke bowls; rib-eye steaks; and cocktails divided by the way they’re served with ice (that is, with a block of ice, ice cubes, crushed ice or nitro). People are excited, and deservedly so. Full report soon. ul. Złota 44

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been

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lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. This they do in a spectacular vaulted interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it

appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Mamma Marietta Mamma Marietta’s new address offers a form that’s bright, engaging and always energetic. Room One: dazzling whites and an open kitchen patrolled with vigor by chef Andrea Scarantino. Room Two: darker, a little more moody and whispery for dates. Both are places in which you’re happy to idle. Start with the lavishly thick Tuscan tomato soup before resisting diversions such as wild boar ragout to instead skip straight to the pizza. The Beddra (mascarpone cheese, flourishes of ham and generous pinches of tomatoes) is awesome. (F5) ul. Górnośląska 24, fb.com/MammaMarietta Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of

EAT! Listings being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85

Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragusano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good. Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul. Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise? Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has

you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys

• Breakfasts daily from 7.00 to 10.30

• Modern take on Italian cuisine

• A unique atmosphere in the heart of the city Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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2020-02-11 11:49:55 warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings

FOOD & DRINK AT KONESER

Bar 3/4 Bombaj Masala Praga Columbus Coffee Ferment Praski Frankie’s Koneser Grill Moxy Hotel Bar ORZO Papa Diego Pijalnia Czekolady E. Wedel Syreni Śpiew Koneser Van Dog Wuwu ZONI

FOR THE... KONESER

Restaurant Week hits the Koneser complex! From modest beginnings back in 2014, the Restaurant Week Festival has blossomed to become one of the highlights of the foodie year, affording diners the gilt-edged chance to connect with friends and family over the dinner table at a snip of the regular price. Pooling hundreds of restaurants across over 30 Polish cities, whilst the scope of the project has expanded, the concept remains the same: simply click onto their website, pick out a restaurant, book a table and then pay the fee – in exchange for the modest sum of zł. 49 per head, a threecourse set menu awaits in return. Easy! The tricky part, however, is choosing a restaurant in the first place – for the first time in its history, the festival will focus in on one specific part of the city, that being the Koneser complex. Presenting the highest concentration of restaurants in the capital, the Koneser edition will take place between the 18th and 23rd of March, and heralds the golden opportunity to enjoy the diverse array of flavors found in Warsaw’s largest food and drinks hub. Set inside the historic redbrick buildings that once housed the Koneser Vodka Factory, the spread of F&B outlets found within the complex have boosted Warsaw’s dining sector to unseen highs – now, it’s your chance to enjoy them at a fraction of the usual cost. To book your table, click to koneser.restaurantweek.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Insider’s Pick FERMENT PRASKI Following a chic neo-bistro format, chef Michał Kornas presents global recipes cooked with seasonal Polish produce inside a stylishly casual, modern interior. Despite the varied scope of the menu, it is the local dishes that warrant the most praise, in particular, those directly influenced by the Praga neighborhood. Modernized for the 21st century palette, these include ‘Prague Zeppelins’ stuffed with meat. Pl. Konesera 10A, fermentpraski.pl

18-23 March 2020 Discover The Tastes of Centrum Praskie Koneser! Koneser Grill • Bistro Bar WuWu • ORZO people-music-nature Koneser • Syreni Śpiew Koneser Ferment Praski • Bombaj Masala • 3/4 Koneser Bar • Frankie’s • Columbus Coffee

And check the special events at:

Zoni Koneser Grill Polish Vodka Museum

PLN 49 appetizer main course dessert

Book now!

koneser.restaurantweek.pl

EAT! Listings of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24

Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39

Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl

Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art,

Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue

outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

EAT! Listings compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition

reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of

dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients. Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe. Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts. Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries. To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul. Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when

asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul. Gagarina 33

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best

celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

EAT! Listings Drink! made with roasted peppersfor andthe tomatoes. and specifically customized season. But ul. these are a precursor for mains such (D2) Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl as tajine dishes defined by their bighearted richness – in this, the beef is the Reginabar king,and with a deep velvet sauce ofathoney Hip happening, the concept Reginaandisginger andamalgam knuckle-sized prunes. ul. bar a wacky that mixes eleBurakowska 9, York’s maghreb.pl ments of New Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find itTahina augmented by a dynamic cocktail list There’s so much to love abouthappening Tahina that that reflects the crazy things in it’s hard toworld knowof where to that begin: eventuWarsaw’s drinks: means, the ally, though, will inevitably turn regular sips thoughts aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with to Warsaw’s best wrap.Spells Contained within names such as Power and Star a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slow-up Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these cooked beef all butjoins melts the mouth. in an interior that theinretro with the One bite and (E6) you’ve found heaven. In a avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine Reginakoszykowa1 still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, The Roots Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled Having recruited some of the top bartendeggsinwith dates, to mention generous ers Poland, Thenot Roots have a serious tahini bowls cascading juicy chunksis artillery on which to rely.with So committed of chicken, andwalls traditional coffee this haunt, its are graced byheated a vast in a pan ofofsand. (C5)memorabilia: ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ collection cocktail antique TahinaWilcza jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention

polish an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Bazar Kocha Mimicking Warmut the look of a contemporary farmers’ awnings cover the Set in themarket, Commie era No Man’s Land counter Bazar Kocha pickled betweenatZbawiciela andand Konstytucji, produce lines theofshelves – what you in it’s become one the hottest nights see onThis them is available to buy.cocktail Loyal to town. vermouth-inspired the terroir,and thehouse menucreations, makes barconcept featuresofclassic aand strong case for contemporary Polish a spectacular design involving street cuisine with aand seasonally-adjusted choice art, greenery mirrored walls. But the that mutton dumplings; smoked pieceinvolves de resistance? Those are the scale eggplant or beef cheeks with afrom models ofrisotto; local landmarks that hang silky lovageInstagram mousse. (D6) ul. now Mokotowska the ceiling. them before 33, bazarkocha.pl everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Bez Gwiazdek Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” 45/49 BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” While Weles Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles fine dining, don’t forofone Namedofafter the Slavic god theminute expect anything less than foodWeles that underworld, everything about whispers refined sophistication. evokes the spirit of indulgence: aFocusing zinc each a different region of the 1920smonth ceilingonimported from the States,

country, Robert Trzópek’s menu a crystal chandelier and atasting wooden bar takes diners verycarousel. heart of the carved fromtoa the British A work Polish soul craftsmanship, and does so viathe tastes that of refined cocktails betray dining background: delicate stand his outfine as the most sophisticated in and the polar opposite of ul. Nowogrodzka 11 theprecise, city. (D5)it’s the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Artezan Pub Czerwony Wieprz The country has crazier breweries An that looks back at foramusing sure, butrestaurant does it have anyone communism through rose-tinted more consistent thanathe lads at lens. Under theFamed glowering gaze Pacific of commie Artezan. for their – the tyrants, staff dressed like IPA obedient quintessential domestic – Artezan’s members of the Youth League flagship bar is aparty’s standard bearer not deliver dishes a cheeky just forhefty quality, but from for Poland as amenu that is in(D4) itself a collector’s whole. ul. Moniuszki 1A item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Chmielarnia Dawne Musty, Smaki muggy, murky. Head into the The atmospheric hark toinstitute bygone basement depthsinteriors of the fishing years, while in sunnier times the back to discover Chmielarnia, a subterragarden promises an oasis-like experience: nean tap bar where artisan beers rule

craft beer

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EAT! Listings if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite,

consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116

wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Kuchnia Czerwony Rower Identified by the red bike hanging outside, this canteen-style affair is an antidote to the rampant monetization of Praga. Aiming to get those with social problems back on track, this social project hands the initiative back to those down on their look by providing employment in their kitchen. Simple but effective in its style, it’s one of the cheapest feeds around. (F1) ul. Targowa 82 Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Lokalna Bistronomia The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from stalwart heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. ul. Nieporęcka 6 Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

EAT! Listings

VEGAN Recognized by the HappyCow portal as the sixth most vegan friendly city in the world, the Insider slashes through Warsaw’s fifty plus choices to bring you the cream of the crop…

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s restaurant rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. Edamame Vegan Sushi ul. Wilcza 11 Falla ul. Oboźna 9 Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/ leonardo.verde.restaurant

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple). (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/ momencik Tel Aviv A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Prior to opening the management traveled Asia to track down the best ramen joints before heading back to Poland and trying to ‘veganize’ what they saw. Woah. These complex bowls of restorative goodness have been described as ‘world class’ by HappyCow, and this they are. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Uki Green Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Kompania Piwna The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and a lively inner courtyard designed to mimic a Mitteleuropa town square. Prowling mountain bands top off the atmosphere nicely. (D1) ul. Podwale 25

Pyzy Flaki Gorące Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budgetminded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. (G1) Brzeska 29/31 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in

the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl

visit involved premium tartare revealed from under a smoking glass dome; pumpkin soup to die for; and deer steak with juniper sauce. Conclude with the Kajmak cake, a modernized version of the original 1986 recipe. You leave having eaten well and enjoyed every minute. ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl

Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa

Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35

Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl Świętoszek Tartuffe A subterranean venue set with arcing brick walls and polished bits of fancy, it’s elegant enough for something special yet casual enough for walk-ins. A place of hospitality, human warmth and big, heartfelt tastes, the Insider’s December

The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry: simply but beautiful. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. Boosting the homespun charm are wall paintings depicting pastoral scenes from pre-war Prussia. (D7) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in Jurassic, XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for

which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation

that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a popup, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3 warsawinsider.pl

EAT! Listings steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/bykbar Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22

a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a fullblooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat. Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai

Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl

Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with

Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl

russian & ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 37

vietnamese Oh My Pho Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza

First Sips

TO THE LULU! PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

An amalgam of pretty much every design concept you’ll currently see trending (millennial pink colors, gold finishes, towering succulents and some industrial bits and pieces), Lulu scores low on individuality and you fear that once trends turns – as they invariably do – they’ll be left looking dated. But whilst lacking their own distinct visual identity, Lulu’s launch has given an extra buzz around a wider area already flourishing as Warsaw’s nocturnal nexus. Aimed perhaps at a slightly younger, shriekier crowd than that found in venues such as nearby Beirut or Koko, credit goes to them for occasionally excellent cocktails, a lively atmosphere, and some very decent modern Asian dishes. Yes, you’ve seen it all before but, as the saying goes, you can never have too much of a good thing. Not quite our scene, but good luck to ’em all the same! Lulu Poznańska 7

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drink!

C A F É I LU Z J O N

TLEN

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH: MOKOTÓW

This month, the Insider café hops around Mokotów to find the best of the bunch in this south Warsaw suburb…

ul. Puławska 24 There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine.

Café Iluzjon

ul. Narbutta 50A Set within a socialist realist era building, and attached to a cult independent cinema, the pluses here are numerous: sparing interiors that emphasize the natural heritage of the building, an exciting vegan menu, locally roasted specialty coffee and a range of experimental beers. To see it at its best, wait until Spring hits home and the outdoor terrace becomes a labyrinth of deckchairs.

Moko

ul. Malczewskiego 6 Looking a charmingly rudimentary from the outside (a wooden bench, wobbly ashtray and plastic crates), step through a battered door plastered with stickers to be instantly seduced by a tiny locale with 1930s floor tiles and no shortage of collectible junk: Polaroids, postcards, books and mags. Polish roasteries are well represented, and other plus points go to the succinct choice of cakes, craft beers, kombuchas and suchlike.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

MokoTuff

ul. Puławska 34 & Al. Niepodległości 92/98 Two locations each carrying a reputation for healthy, homemade breakfasts, eco-minded lunches and gorgeous cakes that skip artificial hazards. Decorated with warm wooden finishes and extendable lamps protruding from the bare brick walls, the standout feature comes in the way of specialty coffee deemed good enough to win both branches a mention in the Coffee Spots Polska.

Relaks

ul. Puławska 48 Approaching their tenth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro film and theater posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in the district’s DNA: to be local, skip the vintage armchairs to instead perch on the windowsill.

Tlen

ul. Rakowiecka 15/17 With a name that translates to mean ‘oxygen’, you’ll be pleased to find that commodity is in rich supply thanks to a minimalistic white interior that’s contrasted against shelves of succulents and glass jars brimming with plants. Otherwise restrained in its presentation, this Mokotów café charms those who enter with its eco-minded approach and amiable welcome.

PHOTOGRAPH S FACEBOOK

Bułkę przez Bibułkę

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

THE VODKA REVIVAL

Leading the charge, WuWu show a different side to the spirit of Polandâ&#x20AC;¦

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

BROUGHT TO YOU BY WUWU

auded as the very lifeblood of Poland, for centuries vodka has been the default sip / swig (delete as applicable) for Poles across the country. Yet whilst its qualities have always extended further than simply its intoxicating powers, these have often been lost on millions of drinkers just keen to get trolleyed. But not so fast! The last few years have seen the drink undergo a spectacular rehabilitation, and a gentler, more sophisticated side revealed. And from a local perspective, few have done more than WuWu to aid the restoration of its reputation. “For a long time people have viewed vodka as just a drink to down in shots,” says WuWu’s Arkadiusz Żochowski, “but we’re here to show its other face.” Listing close on one-hundred vodkas, the immense array includes including legendary Polish brands such as Wyborowa and Luksusowa, heritage labels like Baczewski and Potocki, boutique producers of the caliber of Kania Miranda and Okowity Drake, and international stars like Grey Goose and Tito’s Hand. “What we’ve tried to do is position vodka on a different platform,” says Żochowski. “We want to demonstrate that it’s better sipped and savored. On top of that, we want to show that it’s not just some flavorless product,

but one defined by its subtleties and nuances. “Of course, if people insist on having their vodka frozen we’ll serve them that,” says Żochowski, “but otherwise we’ll serve it at room temperature which is the best way to see the differences in its style.” Just how different becomes apparent with their degustation offer, a set of four vodkas that number a rye, wheat, potato and barley-based vodka. Demonstrating variations in mouthfeel, character, sweetness and aroma, the experience is as illuminating as it is fun – after all, as educational as all this may be, you’re still drinking vodka. “Ask most people and I’m sure 90% or more would say that vodka is tasteless,” says Żochowski, “but it’s actually got a huge spectrum of tastes – and now, in place of drinking whisky or cognac, more people are starting to realize that and ordering instead.” Doing so, he adds, comes with an added built-in bonus. “Because of the filtration process vodka is an incredibly pure product, and that means you’re not going to suffer as much as after a night drinking whisky.” Bistro Bar WuWu Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Koko & Roy Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League

or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Offside Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. (G1) ul. Brzeska 16 Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Praska For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint. Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. (G1) ul. Brzeska 23 Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place

Drink! Listings where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Wozownia Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés Asfalt The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Helping that is a choice of tunes that’s nothing if not alternative: reggae, dub, hip hop, funk, soul and a little bit of jazz. And being

owned by a Polish record label, there’s no shortage of maverick local sounds either. Laidback and neighborly, it’s a place designed for hip locals to drop in, chill out. You should as well. (E3) ul. Tamka 37 Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Reading matter is plentiful, and the positive vibes and permanent sense of chill give it the air of a neighborhood classic: it’s perfect for leafy Stary Bielany. Al. Zjednoczenia 46

EPIC PUB CRAWL! An alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter, the pavilion bars are ensconced in local legend. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance. Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget, prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest concentration of bars in the capital. While seen from a birds eye perspective this collection of scuzzy pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like. Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs outside. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. From the traditional favorites, PRL-themed Pewex has long been a pre-Luzztro muster point thanks to its firm commitment to electronic sound. At Komix, walls come sheathed in scenes from Marvel while Precedens go for a harder vibe by matching their rock policy with A4 posters of legendary acts. As for the most infamous? Step inside Klaps, a bar boldly decorated with dildo beer taps and illuminated boobs: with that in mind, is it really a surprise to find drinks called Flogger, Punisher and Gangbang on the menu? Though it’s easy to write the pavilions off as a student zone, doing so misses the mark. Sure, there’s a heavy presence of Erasmus types, but find these bolstered by representatives from all walks of life – crowd-wise, you won’t find a more democratic audience in the whole of the city. And as such, neither will you find a night that’s quite as wild and unpredictable as an evening spent here.

The Pavilions FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café

Nowy Świat 22/28, pawilonynowyswiat.pl

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drink! Listings gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger. Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30 Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and nonobtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. (F5) ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4)

with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. (D1) ul. Siennicka 3

ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48

Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

Same Fusy Suffused in a soft candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming, vaulted brick room suspended in another time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood and Hobbit-esque atmosphere. With the first chill winds of autumn blowing through the cobbled streets of Old Town, Same Fusy acts as a warm refuge in which to shelter. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed

Yestersen Not content with ruling the domestic scene where online vintage furnishings are concerned, Yestersen have gone one better and opened a bricks-and-mortar venture – complete with coffee while you browse! More in line with wading into an aesthetic wave of bliss, on stepping inside visitors are confronted by a sea of beautiful objects: from iconic wall units by Volák to retro tables by Halabali. On the coffee front, find specialty brews supplied by Cophi and no shortage of pretty little cakes and tarts courtesy of Muus. (C6) ul. Lekarska 5, fb.com/yestersen.warsaw

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradu-

Drink! Listings ally as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12,

trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. (G1) Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/

ritualwarsaw.com

syrenispiew

that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control. (E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, plush sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead in your tracks. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around:

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to an attractive back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa – it’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. The rest of the year ain’t bad either, with sophisticated seasonal cocktails attracting a glam crowd looking for pre-city center drinks.

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul. Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl

Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

(H4) ul. Francuska 2

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are warsawinsider.pl

drink! Listings traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of T charismatic gatehouse you’d read about R C P T M position yourself in front of in Dickens, W theCupstairs fireplace for a celebratory ≈ W and C cigar a glass of something tall and ≈ C Ccocktails are in a class of lovely: the ≈ T their own and specifically customized ≈ P E for the season. Spooling, silent Bond ≈ L S films, regular burlesque shows and HE MOST

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ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1

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random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2)

12.08.15 20:49

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia:

Drink! Listings antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc Cuda Na Kiju 1920s ceiling imported from the States, Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15

tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally inter-

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drink! Listings ested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4 Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from

small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music 12 on 14 For a country with such a noble jazz tradition the paucity of dedicated clubs in the capital feels like an aberration. Doing a sterling job of filling that void are 12 on 14, a venue whose courtyard location lends a feeling of stepping into the unknown. Decorated with the requisite portraits of trumpet tooting legends, the debonair, moody confines match well with the sounds at hand. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16

Warszawska Feta

21-22 March Centrum Praskie Koneser Admission: zł. 10

Say Cheese!

Never before has Warsaw seen anything like this! The premier edition of Warszawska Feta will celebrate artisanal cheese, wine and beer over the course of two-days. Join a cheese-making course led by gourmand Gieno Mientkiewicz, wine tastings fronted by critic and journalist Mariusz Kapczyński and workshops conducted by Tomasz Kopyra, a founding member of the Polish Home Brewers Association. Panels, tastings, pairings and meetings with industry experts will be twinned with numerous stalls where you can peruse and enjoy the produce on sale.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

wine bars Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

TWO ARTS ARE BETTER THAN ONE

Created with children in mind, the Zachęta’s latest exhibition, Two Arts Are Better Than One, seeks to remind all of the importance of creativity and the significant way in which it can impact a child’s development. As part of it, find works produced by artists and their kids, a ‘hiding’ installation, abstract sculptures inspired by Minecraft and a special ‘exploration zone’ developed with infants in mind. And our favorite? The Baltic, an exhibit that hordes all kinds of flotsam to argue the case that there’s no other playground quite like the beach. “The effect isn’t an educational exhibition in the sense of education as the transfer of knowledge,” says curator Zofia Dubowska, “instead, we want to invite visitors to be together, to work together (after all, two heads are better than one), and to calmly reflect on how important it is to disconnect from technology and commune with nature.” Job done. Zachęta Gallery of Modern Art Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Two Arts Are Better than One Ongoing until April 143th

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NO KIDDING! POLIN debuts a new set of audio guides

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

targeted at its youngest of guests...

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

olled out in February, the POLIN Museum is toasting the launch of a new audio guide specially tailored with its younger guests in mind. Specifically targeted at visitors aged six to twelve – though suitable to those that fall either side of that bracket – the 90-minute tour is the result of the museum’s ongoing mission to make themselves accessible to all. Voiced by Wojciech Malajkat – known to many kids as the voice of the cat in the Polish-language version of Shrek – the actor’s smooth delivery is warm in its tone and supremely engaging. Requesting your company whilst he visits the museum to research his latest role, Malajkat’s affable style immediately engrosses. “When he accepted the job to voice the guide,” says Joanna Fikus, the Head of the Exhibitions Department, “he stated his intention to come across as an older brother or a family friend, only one with an extra bit of knowledge, and in that, we think he’s certainly succeeded.” Beginning a thousand-years ago, when the first Jews settled in Poland, and ending with the inter-war years, the route takes guests through a Jewish home, a busy marketplace, a synagogue, train station and much more besides, with Malajkat’s path sprinkled with challenges and surprises: among other things, kids find themselves tasked with designing their own coin or printing a page from an antique book on a printing press. Guided by the narrator, children discover how the world changed through the centuries, listening to tales from Royal courts to eavesdropping on conversation held in artisan workshops or on the back streets of Poland’s towns. Seamlessly intertwined with these, come stories relating to everyday life, Jewish holidays and customs. “What was important to us, was to make the audio guide consistent with the core exhibition,” says Fikus. “Whilst the exhibition itself is quite complex, we’ve always aimed to make it easy to understand. Likewise, for the audio guide, simplicity was the key.” “From the outset,” she continues, “we sought to make POLIN’s exhibition

accessible and interesting to everyone, no matter what their age. We were aware that the full title, The Museum of the History of Polish Jews would be quite intimidating for some, so we’ve always tried to convey the lighter side of our activities – with that in mind, we’ve always understood the importance of having a separate audio guide for children.” Finishing just before the Holocaust period (“We thought it was right that parents decided if their children were old enough for this section of the exhibition, not us” says Fikus), the audio guide was six-months in the making, with particular attention given to the choice of vocabulary. “One thing we realized straight away,” laughs Fikus, “is that children have a completely different understanding of some words than adults.” Ultimately, the work that has gone into producing the guides has proved time well spent with the organizers left overwhelmed by the feedback. “We’ve had some kids ask why the tour’s passed so quickly,” laughs Fikus, “whilst others have immediately asked

to repeat it all again.” Easy-to-use, intuitive and most of all fun, the addition of a children’s audio guide to POLIN’s comprehensive armory has further cemented its status as one of the most modern-minded cultural institutions in Europe. POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Admission (core exhibition): zł. 25 (regular), zł. 15 (concessions), free Thurs Mon, Thurs, Fri: 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Weds, Sat, Sun: 10:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. Closed: Tues Note: last admission to the core exhibition is two hours prior to closure.

IN BRIEF

Audio guides for families are available in Polish and English, and can be loaned at the Museum ticket desk for the price of zł. 10. The audio guided tour does not include the Holocaust and Postwar Years galleries and lasts approximately 90-minutes.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER

GET OUT OF TOWN

TIME WELL SPENT

The Insider heads three hours north to take a timeout in a magical manor… The Manor

A perfect marriage of heritage and hospitality, you visit this 18th century baroque manor house for no other reason than to do absolutely nothing but recharge the batteries. Though smaller than it looks, Dwór Dawidy lends itself to exploration: antiques and hunting trophies abound, with the creaking, shuddering floorboards taking visitors past a resident rabbit named Dave and a smattering of rooms identified by their restrained, homely style. Morning walks spent deer spotting in the fields and forests are followed by lazy afternoons sat snoozing by the fireplace. Lovingly

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

restored by owner Jan Kozlowski (a charismatic gent often found rally driving around Africa!), it’s a place in which to engross yourself in books and shut off the world outside.

Food & Drink

There is no on-site restaurant, but there is something even better and that’s Pani Halina, the housekeeper. Order in advance and she’ll rustle up a three-course evening meal that represents the very essence of Polish home cooking. There is nothing in the way of choice (you get what you’re given), but that’s never a problem with cooking like this. On the drinks front, find regional beers

in the fridge and numerous wine points scattered throughout the building.

Out & About

The nearest town, a medieval gem by the name of Pasłęk, is 10 clicks south and well worth an afternoon of your time. City-wise, Elbląg is 25 km and touts ‘Poland’s newest Old Town’. Only recently rebuilt after the Red Army flattened it in 1945, its ‘historic’ quarter is a charming phoenix raised from the rubble. Dwór Dawidy dawidy.com, rooms from zł. 250 per night

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hy celebrate International Women’s Day for one day when you can celebrate it for two! At least, that’s the message from Jestem Slow, a weekend extravaganza taking place on March 7th and 8th. Offering up the opportunity to meet and mingle with players from both the fashion and eco industries, this year’s event is just the place for a gift for her. But beyond just beautiful, special pressies, Jestem Slow is a celebration of independent Polish fashion and design. With over 200 brands present, find an unparalleled showcase of super cool clothing, jewelry and accessories, not to mention a roster of workshops, lectures and seminars that explore the slogan, “better fashion, responsible choices and conscious consumption.” And, for the first time ever, this will all be accompanied by Jestem Vintage, a tandem event spotlighting the best vintage stores and collectors from around the country: shoes, bags, clothing, and so much more! I'm Slow 7-8 March Centrum Praskie Koneser

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… N AT I O N A L M U S E U M Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s stunning. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl T H E WA R SAW R I S I N G M U S E U M When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

M U S E U M O F WA R SAW

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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PAW I A K

M A R I E S K ŁO D O W S K A - C U R I E M U S U E M

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, Lech Wałęsa’s bulletproofed car, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121, a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by historians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethno-

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

graphic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego

ethnomuseum.pl

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Legia Warszawa Museum Marketed as Poland’s biggest football club, this museum confirms this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son – 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. ul. Łazienkowska 3

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum Reopened after a significant rehaul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done

Polish Vodka Museum The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnutclad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first postwar leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66

Pinball Station Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical

illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com

that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11 Center of Contemporary Art (CSW) Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul. Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions

Museum on the Vistula Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Miriam Cahn. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

Salon Akademii This gallery presents and promotes contemporary art and artists associated with the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. Individual and group exhibitions feature both Polish and foreign artists. Pl. Konesera 10, salonakademii.asp.waw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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THE ESSENTIALS...

CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are simply glorious. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history – in an added boon, the latter is an architectural

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

gem. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. Having marked the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression just last year, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka (itself worthy of a day trip, if only to peruse the small museum and wander the forlorn outdoor memorial). The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is firmly enshrined as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid romping children and whirring machines inside the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike. In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a surrealistic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope and the nearby Royal Route often tinkles to the sound of Chopin-inspired interactive, musical benches. Onto other local greats and the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

LEARNING preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school

offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School

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APRIL 2020, 13.00-16.00

Warsaw Montessori School, Szwoleżerów 4

This Invitation is for children from 0 months to 18 years and their families

warsaw montessori family

www.wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

RSVP: Kinga Chmiel, T:+ 48 692 099 134, E: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide

students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health

Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school. pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl

The English speaking preschool and primary school.

Wilanów Zawady: ul. Syta 78

Mokotów:

ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, ul. Obserwatorów 8 and ul. Cisowa 13 www.tep.edu.pl 696 904 687

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

books Atticus This antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7 Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10 Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul. Bracka 25 Radio Telewizja Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language books and extends further into quirky gifts. ul. Andersa 29

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

SHOPPING accessories Alba 1913 Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki, Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of health-powered holistic beauty. ul. Mysia 3 (second floor)

ready-to-wear and customized female footwear that mixes traditional know-how with the latest trends and technologies. Recognized by Twój Styl magazine as among the best in the business, it’s the founders belief that “every woman should be able to express her true self through a pair of shoes.” ul. Mokotowska 52A, l37.eu

Lilou Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl

Ania Kruk Working with different materials ranging from silicone, leather, brass and assorted gemstones, Kruk’s handcrafted designs set out to prove that you don’t need gold or diamonds to look top class. ul. Mokotwska 46, aniakruk.pl Bath & Body Works Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

Malton & Kielman This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the classical British and Italian look. ul. Chmielna 6, maltonkielman. com

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl

Glamstore Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul.

Omega Newly opened, Poland’s first Omega boutique showcases watches, leather accessories and jewelry across 200 sq/m of luxury real estate. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, omegawatches.com

Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka)

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com

L37 A pioneering brand offering both

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40 Uashmama Originally founded in Italy, Uashmama combine ‘modern technology with Tuscan tradition’ to produce durable,

water resistant bags, accessories and household items from... paper. ul. Leszczyńska 12

antiques Antykwariat Grochowski For the undisputed heavyweight of printed material, look for Antykwariat Grochowski, a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. ul. Kickiego 12, agrochowski.pl Antykwariat na Tamce Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl

Kolo What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl

Kwadryga Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com Lamus Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down. ul. Nowomiejska 7 Lapidarium Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl

Prima Porta Antiquities At the top end of the scale the Germanrun Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Hlonda 8,

Lullaby Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

primaporta-antiquities.com

Multiple locations, lullaby.pl

children shops

Muppetshop An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. ul.

Bimbus Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. ul. Wilcza 69, bimbus.com.pl

Baby D’Oro Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories. ul. Długa 8/14

Kazimierzowska 43, muppetshop.pl

fashion 303 Avenue Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundar-

ies between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul. Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials,

Highlights at Koneser

PaperConcept Your one-stop shop for all your paper-related needs: cards, envelopes, scrapbooks, notepads, decorative stationary. But this is no ordinary stationary store, rather a place that puts a firm focus on style and design. Offering both international brands alongside trending Polish firms, it’s simply impossible to leave emptyhanded. Pl. Konesera

Triki Tashka Founded by the Tashka children’s book publishing house, this spot offers room for meetings, creative workshops and outbreaks of art inside a venue that aims to change stereotypes relating to cultural education. A cultural zone with a difference, the March lineup includes Beat Box workshops, comic strip tutorials, live printing and more. Pl.

TOTUart Gallery This contemporary gallery features paintings, sculpture, graphics, drawings, photographs and ceramics that are aesthetically suited for both personal and commercial use. In addition, they’re happy to loan out pieces, produce customized artbased gifts, and prepare visualizations that will allow you to see how a work of art will appear in your home.

10A, paperconcept.pl

Konesera 3, tashka.pl

Pl. Konesera 3, totuart.pl

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Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Cloudmine Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” ul. Paryska 17,

Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’. Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

26, lui-store.com

Femi Stories Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built. ul. Browarna 4,

Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska. Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable.

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe,

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska

cloudmine.pl

femistories.com

Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul. Mokotowska 48/204, robertkupisz.com

Mandel Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl

MMC Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul.

2, mmcstudio.pl

Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like

Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28

Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

The Odder Side From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl Wake Up The Bear

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com

Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul. Nowogrodzka 15

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

Time for Chopin

A taste of the classics in the heart of the Old Town… Part of Warsaw’s cultural scene for the last four years, Time For Chopin is a unique cultural initiative that attracts residents and tourists alike. Taking place daily at 6 p.m., visit the charming interiors of the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers (ZPAF) to soak in the beautiful sounds of Chopin as performed by a changing lineup of outstanding pianists. From magnificent mazurkas to polonaises, waltzes, preludes and other forms, visitors will find themselves drifting to another time – and during the interval, they’ll be treated to traditional Polish drinks. Organized by Katarzyna Kraszewska, a specialist dedicated to the works of Chopin, past performers have included concert artists touring the continent and international laureates. Acting as the perfect backdrop, the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers seduces all those who step inside with its enthralling Gothic interiors. Located steps away from the Royal Castle, gorgeous views of the Wisła await from both our windows and magical back garden. Time For Chopin Pl. Zamkowy 8, timeforchopin.eu

warsawinsider.pl

HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians.

panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

spas & salons

63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

2, pedicure-place.pl

hair & beauty Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Swimming, sauna and steam room facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop This standout has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. ul. E. Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9, barberian.pl

Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. Biały Kamień 3, dotykspa.pl

49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

ouch! DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Ferajna Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul. Andersa 6, ferajna.pro

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

HOME & DESIGN

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2,

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

porcelanowa.com

Art Sułek Space Acquaint yourself with the work of Marek Sułek, a multi-disciplinary artist specializing in sculpture, photography, graphics and painting. Especially known for his cutesy “Praga angels”, his works are ideal as gifts or statement pieces for the home. Pl. Konesera 2, fb.com/artsulekspace Dom ze sztuką Founded by Katarzyna Czajka, the paintings inside this gallery have been donated by artists with the proceeds going towards homeless charities. Pl. Konesera, fundacjagodniezyc.pl

Grill Plus Home Trick out your garden, kitchen, living room and more with appliances from Bugatti, Japanese blades from the likes of Tajiro, Nagomi, Global, wine accessories from Vin Bouquet, and a whole range of innovative grill contraptions from a diverse selection of market leaders. Pl. Konesera 3 Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54,

Reset The influence of the golden years of Polish design is never far away. Pluck through everything from retro screen prints to the kind of handle-less cups made famous by Poland’s milk bars. Stashed amid these, find gems such as pre-war German SABA radios repurposed as bedside tables, classic circus posters and 50s tea sets. ul. Dąbrowskiego 36, sklep.resetpoint.pl

Slou Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al. Zjednoczenia 11,

lepukka.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

slou.pl

To Tu Art A contemporary gallery featuring paintings, sculpture, graphics, drawings, photographs and ceramics that are aesthetically suited for both personal and commercial use. Pl.

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Konesera 5, totuart.com

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

galeriapolnocna.pl

Koneser Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu

lata60-te.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60,

Galeria Północna Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same.

Designer Outlet Warszawa Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul.

ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Stadion Narodowy

3 4

Chodk iewicza

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Ĺťaryna

Kulskiego

Moving? Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

in February

8 March @ PKiN (Pl. Defilad 1) Though the schedule had yet to be announced at press time (seek the event out on Facebook for updates), anticipate dozens of vegan food stalls as well as stands dealing in eco cosmetics and other planet-friendly products.

MARKET Trends For Kids

EDITOR’S PICK Keret House Open Days 21-22 March @ Dom Kereta (ul. Chłodna 22)

Better known as the skinniest house in the world, the Keret House (so named after its patron, author Etgar Keret), will welcome visitors for its first open day of the year. Measuring 72 centimeters at its narrowest, tours are held in both Polish and English and take 15-minutes. oferta.fundacjapsn.pl

CONCERT Stormzy

3 March @ Stodoła (ul. Batorego 10) Regarded as one of the top grime artists around, Stormzy’s headline appearance at last year’s Glastonbury Festival proved one of the highlights of the festival season. Having trousered a slew of awards, among them Best Grime Artist at the 2014 and 2015 MOBO Awards, his latest appearance in Poland coincides with the recent release of his latest album, Heavy is the Head. stodola.pl

CONCERT Ash

4 March @ Hydrozagadka (ul. 11 Listopada 22) Still associated with the Britpop era, their 90s album 1977 was shortlisted by

the NME as one of the 500 Greatest Ever Albums. Still celebrated for their brand of alt. rock, the platinumselling artists will pack out Hydgrozgadka for what’s set to be their first ever concert in Poland.

CONCERT Fatboy Slim

6 March @ Smolna (ul. Smolna 38) Considered as something of a pioneer of the Big Beat genre, Fatboy Slim has enjoyed a string of hits over the years with tunes like Praise You and Right Here, Right Now. A legend on the dance scene, the no pre-sale policy means everyone has a chance of getting in. Tickets are priced between zł. 60 and 80, and you’ll do well to remember that Smolna operate a strict no photo policy.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2020

15 March @ Centrum Praskie Koneser, (Pl. Konesera 2) Fashion, toys and accessories for kids with original, handmade items produced by an array of Polish artists and manufacturers.

FOOD & DRINK Warsaw Coffee Festival

21-22 March @ PKiN (Pl. Defilad 1) For the sixth time, the Warsaw Coffee Festival will welcome fans of specialty coffee to peruse the latest trends in the world of coffee. This year’s event will include two cupping zones, a children’s zone, and a Cup Tasters Championships.

FOOD & DRINK Warszawska Feta

21-22 March @ Centrum Praskie Koneser (Pl. Konesera 2) Ramming home their growing reputation as Warsaw’s biggest food and drinks hub, Centrum Praskie Koneser will host an artisanal cheese festival whose pulling power is set to be jacked-up even further by an open zone for home brewers.

FOOD & DRINK Warsaw Beer Festival

26-28 March @ Legia

Stadium (ul. Łazeienkowska 3) Organized twice a year, and attracting 20,000 drinkers over the course of the threeday event, the Warsaw Beer Festival has developed into Central Europe’s most prestigious craft beer shindig. “With no bullshit,” state the organizers, “we'll show you the new school of brewing.” warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

CONCERT Mike Skinner

28 March @ Praga Centrum (ul. Szwedzka 2/4) You’ll probably know music legend and all-round top geezer Mike Skinner as the bloke behind The Streets. Join him at Praga Centrum as he plays a DJ set that’s liable to feature house sounds, old school hip hop and a fair bit of drum’n’bass.

FOOD & DRINK Food Truck Season

28-29 March @ PGE National Stadium (Al. Poniatowskiego 1) Wow, how time flies. After ‘the winter that never was’, Warsaw’s foodies are set to ring in the Spring by heading to this festival. Marking the official start of ‘Food Truck Season’, expect one-hundred or so food vans to descend on the National Stadium.

MARKET Targi Rzeczy Ładnych 28-29 March @ Centrum Praskie Koneser (Pl. Konesera 2) The Fair of Beautiul Things could be Warsaw's most interesting design fair. Following an ecological theme, this latest edition will showcase green-minded cosmetics, candles and waxes as well as an array of handmade home design pieces. targirzeczyladnych.pl

WIKICOMMONS

FOOD & DRINK Vegan Festival

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