Warsaw Insider February 2021 #294

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#294

FEBRUARY 2021 FEATURES: Don’t look down! The story of Warsaw’s skyscrapers - p. 18 PLUS: NATIONAL DONUT DAY! – p. 34 Winter of the century – p. 10

Valentine’s wisdom – p. 52 Warsaw’s underground heritage – p. 14 Photography: Szymon Rogiński – p. 26

Contents February 2021

Reviews: EAT!

First taste: La Bàn – p.33 Old School & New Wave Donuts – p. 34

DRINK!

Piw Paw Parkingowa – P.47 Funky Fluid – P. 48 Wine Shops – P. 50 Interview: Robert Mielżyński – P. 52

Discover Mąk 1904 – p.59

Interview: The Odder Side – p. 61

AS IT TURNS OUT, we weren’t being fooled when we were told it would get worse before it would get better. The question it now appears, is just how much worse – are we even in the final strait? With covid fatigue now endemic, and the economic impact biting down hard, it’s little surprise to find business owners fighting back and breaking regulations as they make a last desperate bid to keep their heads above water. In this climate, rolling out a city lifestyle magazine is nothing if not a challenge. But, challenge accepted… So what’s in store? Well, keeping topical should not mean focusing entirely on the covid-shaped present, and for that reason you’ll find us traipsing down memory lane to relive Poland’s “winter of the century”. Elsewhere, news that Varso Tower has finally become the nation’s tallest building has been a good a reason as any to explore the history of the city’s skyscrapers. And there’s a few other bits and pieces too: Valentine’s advice from Warsaw’s wine king Robert Mielżyński, a chat with the lads from Funky Fluid craft brewery, and our most demanding investigation to date: a tour of Warsaw’s top donut stops! Yep, it hasn’t all been bad. Enjoy!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

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In the News... STREET ART

From Da’ Streets

MERCH

Coining It

Hardcore fans of Cyberpunk 2077 now have the chance of expanding their merch collection to include a souvenir coin minted in honor of the best-selling video game. Featuring 3D elements and zippy colors that bring to mind neon city flashes, the coin is to be produced in a limited run of 500 and will be all yours for the piffling sum of zł. 1,499. While you won’t be able to use it as legal tender in Poland, you will be able to spend it in the remote South Pacific island of Niue where it will hold the equivalent value of five New Zealand dollars. Published by the Warsaw-based games developer CD Projekt Red, Cyberpunk 2077 has become the most hyped game in recent memory, though a slew of bugs have resulted in fiercely divided opinion.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

DIGITAL

Sold!

Dubbed the first event of its kind ever held in Poland, a ‘digital painting’, along with its canvas original, was sold for zł. 35,000 during an online auction in January. Aside from in its traditional canvas form, Night Cruising by Wojciech Brewka was also presented on Samsung’s The Frame, a smart 55 inch television “that uniquely combines art and technology to become an integral part of the living room.”

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, PRESS MATERIAL (2), SHUTTERSTOCK

Arguably the most famous artist of contemporary times, Banksy looks set for his first ever Warsaw exhibition this February. Covid allowing, the anonymous face from Bristol will present over a hundred of his works at Centrum Praskie Koneser. Scheduled to run from Feb 12th to April 11th, the exhibition will spotlight the artist’s photographs, sculptures and stencil art and will feature some of his best-known pieces: Girl with Balloon, Pulp Fiction and Flower Thrower.

In brief CINEMA

Culture Vultures

Oscar-winning director Andrzej Wajda is to be remembered by way of a film and cultural center that will occupy the former Kino Tęcza in the northern district of Żoliborz. First built to serve as a boiler house, the building in which the project will be housed has been described as “a pearl of inter-war modernism”, and it was directly outside that the first shots of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising were fired. Standing derelict for the past few years, the building will now be restored to its prime to become one of the most modern cultural facilities in town.

CITY

A Cover Up!

ENVIRONMENT

World Class!

Peaking at sixth position, Warsaw climbed into Aqicn’s Top Ten list of the world’s smoggiest cities in mid-Jan with residents advised to stay indoors and avoid travelling. Not uncommon in recent years, the situation was blamed on the huge number of coal-fired stoves operating in Poland, the use of which has surged as temperatures have plummeted. The problem was exacerbated yet further by a lack of wind which allowed for the build-up of harmful particles.

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PHOTOGRAPHS TOP TO BOTTOM; WIKICOMMONS, FACEBOOK, SHUTTERSTOCK

A tenement on Praga’s Brzeska street was the subject of unwanted attention after a botched renovation saw historic details covered by blundering workmen. Tasked with the removal of offensive graffiti found in the entrance of Brzeska 20, workers instead painted the entire passageway and in the process obscured a series of hand-painted, pre-war ceramic tiles. The error was quickly corrected, but the debacle has raised important questions relating to the district’s ongoing – and occasionally slapdash – renewal.

What A Role Model

Warsaw model maker earns international praise for striking depiction of pre-war Nalewki.

he exact year is unknown, but the period is unmistakable; shot sometime in the 1930s, the faded black and white image presents a snapshot of daily life on ul. Nalewki, a thriving center of Jewish commerce. Festooned with signboards advertising

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specialist services and small businesses, the energy of the street is compounded by the number of pedestrians bustling too-and-fro: smart businessmen, elegant ladies, orthodox Jews and young, impish lads mixing together in this cauldron of life. Within a decade, their world stand no more.

Poignant as this photograph is, it has been given a stunning new slant by Marcin Dobrzyniecki. A Chief Operations Officer for a multinational by day, for the past five years Dobrzyniecki has led a dual life as an expert model maker whose work has garnered international attention for its stunning precision and glorious detail. Building his models from scratch in the late evening hours – a Scottish single malt by his side – Dobrzyniecki has forged a cult reputation for his intricate miniatures. Titled “Stories from a Non-Existent Street”, his latest has, however, surpassed previous efforts in the publicity it’s received. Paying tribute to the area of his childhood, Dobrzyniecki spent hours sifting through archive materials to nail the details, before setting to work on a model that has quickly gone viral not just among the modelmaking community, but on various Polish history forums as well. “I never expected such a response,” he admits. The number of plaudits, though, is set to grow even further with Dobrzyniecki due to reveal his next Warsaw-themed project at some point in the near future.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE COURTESY OF MARCIN DOBRZYNIECKI, OPPOSITE PRESS MATERIAL

In brief

Ringelblum Remembered

An installation marking the site where some of the Ringelblum Archives were recovered is set to be unveiled in the coming few months.

he memorial will be positioned on ul. Nowolipki and take the form of an illuminated, transparent box with a symbolic document contained within. Originally the idea of Holocaust researcher Professor Jacek Leociak, the zł. 300,000 project has been largely funded by private donations, many of which came from abroad. With the formalities already completed, construc-

tion was set to begin at the end of January; the pandemic permitting, organizers hope to officially reveal the results at a ceremony to be conducted on April 19th, the anniversary of the outbreak of the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Should this be the case, it’ll mark the end of a protracted eleven year battle to commemorate one of the most famous voices of the city’s wartime Ghetto. Born in 1900, Emanuel

Ringelblum graduated from Warsaw University in 1927. Already a prominent figure in Jewish cultural life, he was both a widely admired teacher and social activist. When the Warsaw Ghetto was sealed, Ringelblum took it upon himself to create a secret organization to record and chronicle daily life – the thousands of documents, essays and items that the group amassed would ultimately come to be known as the Ringelblum Archives. Divided into three caches and hidden just before the Ghetto’s liquidation, the first was unearthed by construction workers on September 18th, 1946. Four years later, another stash hidden inside milk cans was discovered in a cellar on Nowolipki. The third, however, has continued to elude researchers though rumors persist that it lies somewhere buried on the grounds of what is now the Chinese Embassy. Ringelblum himself was executed in 1944 after he was found hiding out in the Ochota district. However, his legacy rings to this day through an archive that has played a critical role in our understanding of the horrors of the Holocaust.

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Take The Plunge

The coolest pastime this winter? Outdoor swimming, of course…

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peedos, bikinis, caps and goggles. That’s the attire favored by most, though there are some that dispense of clothing altogether. Think of them as the hardcore. On the shore, meanwhile, towels have been laid out, even the occasional picnic hamper. In the distance, new arrivals circle in their cars waiting for parking spots to free. This is not, as you may think, a snapshot from the summer, but rather scenes that played out when temperatures hit rock bottom. Whilst many of us shivered under duvets, thousands of lunatics across the country

headed to the nearest lakes for a dip to remember. Known as “morsowanie”, the phenomenon of ice cold winter dips is nothing new, yet this winter it went from niche to mainstream in the blink of an eye. Why? According to some psychologists, the answer is straightforward. Buoyed by months of restrictions and regulations, the chance to do something extreme tapped into human nature as well as our base needs for human contact and entertainment. Furthermore, this was supplemented by strong latent urges to do something active, rigorous and healthy.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE TERRY DEAL, OPPOSITE KEVIN DEMARIA

In brief

Feeling Parky?

Winter walking round Łazienki...

erving most notably as the summer residence of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski, the Łazienki Park & Palace complex should need little introduction. Famed as Poland’s most beautiful expanse of urban greenery, its here Greco-Roman follies rub shoulders with elaborate Chinese gardens and mighty statues to heroes past. A place of meandering trails and secluded corners, it’s here that peacocks move with an aloof superiority as if directly descended from the monarchs and nobles that once walked these paths. But from Imperial Age to Ice Age: encased in fresh sheets of snow, Łazienki presents itself as an enchanting, ethereal kingdom belonging to fiction.

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HISTORY > WEATHER

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Winter Of The Century: Revisited

Sure, the last few days have been a little nippy – but have no doubt, it’s been a hell of a lot worse.

NAC/GRAŻYNA RUTOWSKA ARCHIVE

ew Year’s Eve, 1978: having experienced a relatively mild December, Poles woke on the final day of the year to be greeted by a snowstorm of epic proportions. It wasn’t long till the gravity of the situation became clear – trams and cars found themselves stranded, hot water pipes froze and power was downed. It got no better after midnight. Struggling through temperatures of -21, in Lublin it’s said returning partygoers came close to death as they made their way home in flimsy dinner jacket attire. In Gdańsk, meanwhile, authorities were so alarmed by developments that they were moved to announce a state of natural disaster. And those were the cities – in the towns and villages of backwater Poland, entire communities found themselves cut off from the outside world. Amazingly, as it proved, this was all but a dress rehearsal for the biggie up ahead. Beginning on January 30th, Warsaw was hit by a five day snowstorm – on the first day alone, the capital found itself buried under half-a-meter of white powder. Falling in unrelenting sheets,

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HISTORY > WEATHER

it wasn’t long till the capital was utterly submerged under snow. An awesome demonstration of nature’s blind indifference to man, the entire city was left paralyzed. Captured in brilliant detail by roving photojournalist Grażyna Rutowska, her images show the full might of the blizzard as well as the city’s sheer endurance: amid Polar-style snowdrifts and trapped vehicles, shivering queues can be seen lining for provisions. Fully digitized and publicly available on the NAC’s online archive, Rutowska’s pictures are not without humor, either – providing light relief among the suffering, her black poodle Agat can be spotted cavorting in the snow. Arguably, however, it is not the ferocity of the winter that many remember, but the togetherness it fostered. Starting on February 4th, 600,000 volunteers hit the streets in a collective effort to clear the snow and return the city to some semblance of life. “It was like a miracle came to pass,” remembers one eyewitness. “As if spontaneously, everyone, young and old, came out from their apartments and joined in this action.” United as one, others recall how this mass mobilization had unexpected consequences for the Gierek regime. “All of a sudden,” recalls another participant, “we weren’t afraid to say what we thought. Anti-party sentiment spread like wildfire – seeds of rebellion were planted.” But as remarkable as this story of human fortitude is, it comes not without tragedy. The after-effects had left the city’s infrastructure in a precarious state, and as such on February 15th a frost-damaged gas pipe running underneath the PKO Rotunda exploded ripping apart the building and leaving 49 dead. Though conspiracy theorists continue to claim the disaster was actually the result of a bomb left by embezzling bank officials keen to cover-up their tracks, others now recognize the dead as being the ultimate victims of this “winter of the century”.

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TRANSPORT > METRO

Taken in 1956, l aborers engage in preliminary work on the Warsaw Metro it would take nearly four more decades till the underground opened.

On The Rails NAC

With three Warsaw stations nominated for the Mies van der Rohe award, join us for a look at the history of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s metroâ&#x20AC;Ś

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sked for one word to surmise the story of the Warsaw metro, many would answer in a heartbeat: delayed. Originally conceived in 1925, it was to take seventy years before the first underground trains started running, and even then only on a limited eleven kilometer stretch snaking from Kabaty to Politechnika. But while more stations have been added since, and yet others are in the pipeline, the city’s current 35 kilometer underground network still has a long way to go until it can compete in scope with other major cities. Admittedly, and in Warsaw’s defense, not many towns have experienced the misfortunes and force majeure events that have shaped the Polish capital, and it’s these that explain the often lethargic pace of progress on the metro. First approved in a resolution dating back to 1925, geological drilling began two years later only to stall once the financial burden became apparent. When the Great Depression struck, the operation was mothballed entirely only to later be revived by Mayor Stefan Starzyński in the late 1930s. It was then that new plans were laid for an eight-line, 46 kilometer project to be implemented in stages over 35-years. Coordinating civil needs with that of the military, this pioneering blueprint was deemed “a hallmark of advanced professionalism and meticulousness.” The outbreak of WWII put paid to the project but not the idea. Under the behest of the

communist authorities a new venture was born in 1950 that envisaged a trio of lines that would not only zip the proletariat around the city, but also allow for the swift transport of troops should the need arise. Mimicking the lavish wedding cake style of the Moscow under-

“More than an urban project, the metro became symbolic of changes, freedom and new perspectives..” ground, work was anticipated to last until 1965 but once again was cancelled soon after the scale of the cost became too much. Not to be defeated, the communists tried again in the 1980s; with impeccable timing, the announcement was made in the winter of 1982, essentially in a cheap attempt to deflect public attention from the imposition of Martial Law, and work started the following year. In keeping with already established tradition, this was to prove a laborious and plodding process, and it was only in 1995 – long after Communism had collapsed – that an

eleven station line was unveiled to the public. While construction had been initiated under the old regime, and despite the presence of Russian rolling stock, the opening was seen as a triumph that heralded a new age for Warsaw. “This became more than an urban project,” says Witold Naturski of the European Commission, “it became symbolic of changes, freedom and new perspectives.” Further victories were to come. In 2014, CNN included Pl. Wilsona on its list of the world’s 17 most impressive stations, noting that it looked like it might have been built by aliens, and while Warsaw’s local government strenuously denied any extraterrestrial involvement, that hasn’t stopped conspiracy theorists nor accounts of other oddities. For a start, there’s talk of a ghost train. In 2010, there was speculation that metro chiefs were planning to hire a ghost hunter after workers reported sightings of a mysterious, driverless train hurtling around the track at breakneck speeds. According to some reports, workers were even afraid to go to work, despite underground CCTV failing to pick up any supernatural activity. Then, two years later, during the construction of Line 2, a video emerged online claiming that hundreds of dead bodies lay hidden along the new route. The discovery of the corpses, said the video’s author Herbu Grabie, was being kept under wraps. “Workers have uncovered

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HISTORY > METRO

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

“Over time, construction has been thwarted by WWII bombs, floods, fires and, even, the discovery of a prehistoric mammoth”

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD SHUTTERSTOCK

human skeletons and human remains in various stages of decomposition,” Grabie said. “The number of corpses is estimated to be in the hundreds, but no one knows the exact number. Bones and skulls are loaded directly onto trucks and taken to a landfill and dumped.” The claims were picked up by news channel TVN who contacted the police and prosecutors office. Both denied any reports of dead bodies, but suspicions remained. Not that that has seemed to bother some. Indeed, according to sexologist Zbigniew Izdebski, randy couples have taken to bonking on the metro. In his book The Sexuality of Poles in the Early Twenty-First Century, Izdebski says he found that a whopping 4.3% of Warsaw’s population had enjoyed an amorous romp on the underground at one time or other. The metro has been associated with bumps of a different kind as well, with the ongoing realization of the second line thwarted at different times by floods, fires, unexploded WWII bombs and archaeological discoveries that have included relics from the city’s 19th century uprisings and, even, the remains of a prehistoric mammoth. But despite the various and varied hiccups, all agree the results have been worth the wait, and that’s never truer than in the case of the second line. Notable at some stops for graphic signage designed by artist Wojciech Fangor, and in others for cosmos-inspired escalators that have you travelling with the stars, it’s a line that’s (slowly… very slowly) becoming the envy of Europe, a point attested by January’s news that a trio of stations have been nominated for the prestigious Mies van der Rohe architectural prize.

STOP RIGHT THERE! Unveiled in low-key circumstances at the height of the first lockdown, Metro Płocka, Młynów and Księcia Janusza have since won widespread acclaim for their individualized aesthetics and functionality, not to mention their striking use of light and neon. Defined by its greenish glow and interlocking panels, Księcia Janusza was designed to reference the pre-war gardens and greenhouses that once dominated the neighborhood. Decked out with glimmering copper, Płocka, meanwhile, was intended as a homage to the area’s manufacturing heritage. No less impressive, Młynów, with its blue bubbles and cool white finishes, was inspired by the proximity of Moczydło Water Park and the district’s reputation for rest and recreation. All three were designed by the Kazimierski i Ryba architectural studio and will be hoping to follow in the footsteps of the Szczecin Philharmonic which, to date, has been the only Polish building to claim the top prize at the Mies van der Rohe awards.

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ARCHITECTURE > SKYSCRAPERS

Dizzy Heights As Varso Tower usurps PKiN as Poland’s tallest building, we take a look at the complex history of Warsaw’s skyscrapers…

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

THE OPENER Commonly classified as Warsaw’s first skyscraper, when it was completed in 1908 the 11-storey PASTa on Zielna 37 was recognized as the tallest building in the whole of the Tsarist Empire – so impressed were they by its dimensions, it’s said that visiting out-of-towners would often stare up goggle-eyed as if hypnotized by the building’s power. Inspired by the castles of the Middle Ages, it originally housed the Swedish telephone firm Cedergren before switching into the hands of Polska Akcyjna Spółka Telefoniczna (PAST).

This Spread: (clockwise from above) PASTa building at the turn of the last century; Prudential between 1937-1939; Varso Tower

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE NAC, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

ART DECO SWAGGER On topping out, the 66-meter Prudential didn’t just become the highest building in Poland, but the second tallest in Europe – for many, it was a clear declaration that this was a city of the future. Built using two million bricks and two thousand tons of concrete, the Art Deco Prudential was constructed to house the Polish operations of the international insurance giant and was clearly influenced by the inter-war aesthetics of New York and Chicago. Housing glitzy apartments at the top, it was also from here that the nation’s first TV broadcasts were transmitted in 1936. Later operating as a gloomy, state-run hotel, the last couple of years have seen it reopen as the luxury Hotel Warszawa. warsawinsider.pl

ARCHITECTURE > SKYSCRAPERS

AGE OF DESTRUCTION One doesn’t need a history major to guess that the war didn’t bring about much that was good. Both of Warsaw’s pre-existing skyscrapers played iconic roles in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, with PASTa cut off and surrounded by the Polish Home Army on the first day of battle. A bitter siege ensued, culminating in fierce room-to-room fighting involving flamethrowers and hand-tohand combat. Reports from the time speak of Nazi soldiers

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throwing themselves off the top floors to escape the chaos. Finally, on August 22nd, the German garrison defending it raised the white flag. Likewise, Prudential was also captured on the first day of battle; pounded relentlessly by German forces, it survived all the Nazis could throw at it. Smashed by a 1,000 shells, including a 2-ton round from the dreaded Karl-Gerat mortar, the Germans failed to wrestle control of Prudential until the final surrender 63-days later.

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE The Gotham City aesthetics of the Palace of Culture & Science did much over the decades to lend Warsaw its reputation as a dour, dehumanizing town. Notoriously gifted to Poland by Stalin, this epic piece of Socialist Realist architecture continues to divide opinion, with many still viewing it as a symbol of subjugation – in fact, only a few years ago, plans were playfully touted to demolish it as part of a James Bond sequence. Built in three years by 3,500 workers, this 50s mega structure has seen seismic events, from Marlene Dietrich storming out after a cat wandered onto stage, to The Rolling Stones causing a riot when they played in the 60s. Composed of 42-floors, 3,288 rooms and 40 million bricks (and defended from rodents by a unit of 13 basement-dwelling cats), it remains the most impactful piece of commie architecture in the country.

This Spread: (clockwise from left) Forum Hotel; Żelazna Brama; Palace of Culture & Science and PASTa

GROWING UP

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD NAC

FOR THE MASSES The ensuing years saw the execution of an aggressive plan to rebuild the capital, and this manifested itself by way of an array of often awkward blocks and towers. A bold attempt to mold the socialist man through his environment, examples include the walloping Żelazna Brama housing estate in the center, an ugly collection of nineteen 15-storey high rise blocks built in 1965-72. Then there was

‘the Eastern Wall’, features of which included a trio of residential towers facing PKiN from Marszałkowska. “Every night I have strong erotic experiences as a result of radiation from the television aerial on the Palace’s spire,” complained one female resident to a local newspaper. “This is extremely exhausting for me, so I hereby ask that the technological department conceals this aerial.”

It wasn’t until the 70s that the capital would receive its first ‘western’ style tower. The problem was, having decided to build a skyscraper in the first place, the government realized no one in Poland was qualified to do so. As such, the Swedes were called in, specifically architect Sten Samuelson. His creation, the Forum Hotel (now the Novotel), was unveiled on January 24, 1974. Standing 96 meters in height, it was immediately installed as Poland’s second tallest building, and caused controversy aplenty. Locals nicknamed it ‘the chocolate bar’, thanks to its yellowish brown façade, while one critic, Jerzy Waldorff, went as far as to declare it Sweden’s revenge for their 1656 defeat at The Battle of Częstochowa. Most famously, ABBA kipped here in 1976. Since shedding its jaundiced skin, it’s gone a long way to being naturally absorbed into the skyline.

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Time Capsule 2020

A NEW DAWN

This Spread: (clockwise from above) Blue Tower; Marriott; Atlas Tower; Złota 44/InterContinental and Cosmopolitan

IT’S A CURSE! If Pl. Bankowy looks unsynchronized and top-heavy then the primary culprit is ‘the Blue Tower’. One hundred and twenty meters in height, construction began during the ’60s, though was suspended once the bottom fell out of the Polish economy; in all, the building took a staggering 26 years to finish before being officially opened in 1992. An

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enduring legend has it that this was only after a rabbi lifted a curse that had been placed on the land. Previously, the plot had been occupied by the Great Synagogue, a house of worship that had been the center of Warsaw’s pre-war Jewish community and whose destruction marked the final act in the suppression of the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.

The opening of the Marriott in 1989 wrote a new chapter in Warsaw’s skyscraper history. An island of American-style largesse and prosperity, expats and moneyed locals thronged the hotel’s bars and restaurants, while visiting VIPs made full use of the split-level Presidential Suite on the 40th floor: Joan Collins, Chris de Burgh, and so too Michael Jackson who allegedly switched here from the Bristol to flee the zoom lenses of the paparazzi. Mostly, however, it’s the building’s association with the US Presidency that has made waves: Trump and Bush stayed here, whilst Obama was at the center of security storm after a guest managed to get up close and film him working out. In other useless trivia, four times its been conquered by climbers using no safety gear, among them “the French Spiderman”, Alain Robert.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD SHUTTERSTOCK

THE WILD 90S A time of unhinged and unregulated capitalism, it’s fitting that Poland’s new freedoms bore witness to an explosion of gaudy, crass towers that reflected its Dynasty-style aspirations. These included the 27-storey Central Tower which, on account of its then salmon and blue colored panels, quickly became established as one of Warsaw’s ugliest buildings, a title it held with pride till opting for a recent facelift; there was Ilmet, with its clunky styling and revolving rooftop Mercedes badge; and Wola’s original skyscraper, the 208-meter Warsaw Trade Tower which was built on the orders of Daewoo before their spectacular collapse. But most notorious of all, there’s what’s now known as the Atlas Tower. Often likened to a portable toilet, a shower tub or, even, a Red Bull can in the grip of a vice, it was the

brainchild of Vahap Toy, a controversial businessman whose plans for Poland included transforming the backwater town of Biała Podlaska into a Vegas-inspired resort complete with F1 track and Olympic stadium. Yet on the subject of high-rise monsters, special mention must go to JW Construction. Often nicknamed JW Destruction, their Lego-block assemblies continue to cause widespread horror, perhaps most noticeably with their bewildering residential pyramid, Łucka City (2004).

MILLENNIUM MARVELS From the catastrophic architecture of the 90s, the millennium saw a more tasteful approach adopted with a host of winning ideas being realized. Featuring Europe’s highest pool, the 2003 InterContinental was built with a 15-floor indent so as not to deprive neighbors

of sunlight, whilst the 2006 Rondo 1 won plaudits for its vertiginous transparency and panoramic lifts. Surprisingly, somewhat, it is two residential projects though that have seen the most fuss. Delivered way over schedule due to the credit crunch (the good old days!), Daniel Liebeskind’s Złota 44 is a love or hate affair, with many critical of its overt vulgarity. Nonetheless, residents (who purportedly include Robert Lewandowski) praise its 10,000 bottle wine cellar, state-of-the-art recreational floor and design-forward fit-out, though to enjoy it yourself you’ll be spending a minimum of zł 25,000 per sq/m. Then, nearby, there’s Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan, a building whose 44-floors contain 236 apartments finished with Italian marble, oak wood floors and smart home management systems. A joy of simple form, it’s one of Warsaw’s favorite silhouettes.

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Once a byword for urban stagnation and decay, the east rump of Wola has risen almost as if to resemble Delta City from the Robocop series. While the Warsaw Trade Tower acted as a precursor, it was the 2016 debut of the Warsaw Spire that truly lit the fire. Redefining the corporate image of Warsaw, and winning the title of the world’s best business building at the 2017 MIPIM Real Estate Awards, the 220-meter super structure has since been joined by a raft of new neighbors such as the Mennica Legacy Tower, The Warsaw Hub I & II, Skyliner, Generation Park and the Warsaw Unit. Still more are in the pipeline, with the area’s futuristic atmosphere offset by the numerous pre-war relics and atmospheric side streets.

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This Spread: (clockwise from above) Skyliner, view from top of the Varso Tower, Warsaw Spire and Warsaw Trade Tower

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE: CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, SUHTTERSTOCK (2), PRESS MATERIAL

FOR BUSINESS

HITTING NEW HEIGHTS

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY TOMASZ MEISSNER

Warsaw’s ambition to be viewed as one of Europe’s financial big shots will be given a boost by the completion of the Varso Tower, a 53-storey project topping out at 310-meters. Designed by Foster + Partners, it’s set to become the EU’s tallest building and will include observation decks on the 49th and 53rd as well as Poland’s highest restaurant perched on Floor 48. As things stand, it should be completed at the end of the year.

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City Eye

Cover photographer Szymon RogiĹ&#x201E;ski presents a piece of his Warsawâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Is this a photogenic city? I wouldn’t say so. It’s rather chaotic with a mix of architecture following years involving no

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planning. Then you’ve got wild ads, a sea of cars, anti-parking bollards in ten different styles… Etcetera! You need to put a lot of effort in when photographing the city. That said, all of those things mentioned make Warsaw unique.

not overly interested in technical details. Some of these images are from 2009 when I was using a Mamija 7 analogue medium format camera. Others are from the present day when I switched to digital.

What do you try and capture in your images? I prefer to photograph either at night or at dawn. Mostly, I point my camera towards the spaces most people don’t want to see.

What kit can’t you live without? My tripod!

What equipment do you use? It depends on the project. I’m

How do you achieve such an ethereal quality? My pictures are quite natural so I don’t spend much time editing. I’d say the atmosphere

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY SZYMON ROGIŃSKI

WI: As a photographer, how does Warsaw inspire you? SR: I’ve lived in Warsaw since 2000 and it’s amazing to see how much the city has changed in this period time. From the beginning I loved how remnants of its difficult history merged with the new city. Nowadays, I’m inspired at the spectacular mess of billboards, ads and shadowy architecture.

warsawinsider.pl

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY SZYMON ROGIŃSKI

comes from the time of day or the weather at that very moment. One thing I do like using the computer for is to tinker with the color palette. What impact do you hope your photos have? My images are often an observation of something that I am currently obsessed about. I hope they ask questions or trigger the imagination. What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned? I’m still learning!

Tell me a secret! Some of these pictures were made from a 30-meter high crane, so the perspective is quite unique. Also, when I’m on the streets I often dress as a road worker – that helps me become invisible! What’s your biggest achievement to date? It’s hard to pinpoint a specific one but there’s a few international exhibitions I’ve been very proud to be part of. I think my main career achievement has been to maintain consistency in

my body of work, though recently, I’ve also been very proud to have had the book The Internets published. What comes next? I’m currently working on several new projects, including a book about kebabs in Poland as well as an interactive VR experience involving Warsaw’s architecture.

For more on Szymon’s work, see: instagram.com/szymon_ roginski

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Eat!

First Bite La Bàn ul. Krucza 6/14

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CRAZY PHO YOU

There can’t be all that many cuisines that have enjoyed (or needed) such a dramatic rehabilitation as that of Vietnam – just find ONE veteran expat that doesn’t shudder at the memory of the sleazy Vietnamese snack shacks that once proliferated town. But with the past little more than a distant glimmer in the rearview mirror, attitudes have softened, and that’s down to a small crew of restaurants that are getting it right:

Vietnamka; Viet Street Food; Tran Tran; and now, La Bàn. Owned by the hospitable Mr. Ming, prepare for an epic trawl around the regions of Vietnam via a regionalized menu that presents such dishes as perky summer rolls, Bahn Mi baguettes, spicy fishy soups and lively salads. You need balls of steel to open in this day and age, but at La Bàn you’re left with the impression that we have a neighborhood keeper.

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Eat! Roundup

DONUT WORRY, BE HAPPY

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE TOP COURTESY OF MOD, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

As Tłusty Czwartek approaches, the Insider undertakes its toughest assignment to date to investigate… the city’s top donuts!

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Eat! Roundup

f ever you needed reason to settle here for good then let it be the existence of Donut Day – yep, that’s right, an entire holiday based on Homer Simpson’s favorite meal. In explanation: falling this year on Feb 11th, Tłusty Czwartek is a day dedicated to feasting on goodies otherwise shunned by God-fearing worshippers over the course of the upcoming period of Lent. Occurring on the last Thursday preceding this solemn time, Poles have historically taken to celebrating the day by pathologically consuming as many donuts as is physically possible – and in this, we’re being serious. According to researchers, that means 100 million over the course of the day. But despite the holiday’s religious roots, it’s not just practicing believers that join the frenzy: expect immense queues – some stretching around the block – and even the occasional fist fight as people line-up for their sugary treat.

between Ale Wino and Przegryź, Kukułka’s desserts have lifted Warsaw in a heavenly direction – literally in the case of their Angel Wings. The donuts include both traditional and I-didn’texpect-that fillings (passion fruit!), and don’t dare leave without their signature cream puffs.

Cukiernia na Żelaznej 64

Lukullus

Zakopiańska 20 Existing since 1937, this cult venue chooses to decorate its donuts with orange peel and pipe them full of plum jam. The results transcend description. Visit!

Various Locations Though their origins date to 1946, the individualized, uber-cool interiors and modern desserts make Lukullus a shoe-in for our New Wave shortlist. Using rose jam as their filling, the donuts are a fleeting nod to the roots of this well-respected operation.

Miss Mellow

Wilcza 62 Reminiscent of Italian bombolini, these doughy spheres of pleasure come oozing with milk chocolate, vanilla cream, salty caramel and a few other tastes we can’t remember – you might not either, as this place has a habit of knocking you sideways with its tasty little treasures: save room for cake!

MOD

THE NEW WAVE El Krepel

Śniadeckich 12/16 A modernized take on Polish donuts with choices including, dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. Co-created by Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a truly tantalizing treat.

Kukułka

ul. Mokotowska 52 A joint initiative formed from an alliance

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27 Award-winning NYC-style donuts that transpire to be things of craft, adventure and irresistible taste. All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s non-standard offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-colored toppings such as matcha, mango, black forest gateau, salted caramel or hibiscus. We LOVE it!

THE OLD GUARD Cukiernia Pawłowicz

Chmielna 13 Revered by traditionalists, the queue on Tłusty Czwartek snakes as far as the eye can see. Be patient to see why.

Żelazna 64 Doing things the old way, head to this shabby little legend for plump doughy paczki wrapped in waxy paper tied with coarse string. It’s a flash back in time!

Irena

Smaki Warszawy

Various Locations Something of a hybrid, Smaki Warszawy tread a fine line between tradition and modernity. Though there’s much contemporary about their cakes, the donuts are of a more-ish old school variety.

Stara Pączkarnia

Nowy Świat 28 Born in Szczecin in 1989, Stara Pączkarnia has since blossomed into a nationwide chain. Served through a hatch, find their Warsaw sales point dealing an array of tastes that include rebel fillings such as pineapple, Advocaat or Bounty.

Stary Dom

Puławska 104/106 Though less than ten years old, the aesthetic conjures images of Warsaw’s upmarket, inter-war confectionaries. The traditionally angled desserts – donuts included – are unimpeachable.

Zagoździński

Górczewska 15 Suppliers to none other than Marshal Józef Piłsudski! Founded in 1925, and side-stepping modern innovation and artificial nasties, it’s the most famous pączek in Poland!

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

african – p. 36 author’s cuisine – p. 36 bakeries – p. 37 chinese – p. 37 comfort food – p. 38 desserts – p. 38 fine dining – p. 38 food halls – p. 40 georgian – p. 40 greek – p. 40 indian – p. 41 italian – p. 42 japanese – p. 42 korean – p. 42 latin & spanish – p. 44 mexican – p. 44 middle eastern – p. 44 polish (classic) – p. 44 polish (modern) – p. 44 scandinavian – p. 44 seafood – p. 44 steak houses – p. 45 thai – p. 46 russian & ukrainian – p. 46 vegan – p. 46

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

african

Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

TAKO AFRICAN KITCHEN

DYLETANCI

African restaurants have traditionally floundered in Warsaw, but there’s no danger of that happening at Tako, a cheerful venture whose trump calling card is an exotic menu offering spicy onion and mustard stews, meat pies, fried plantains and other delicious diversions. ul. Wagów 20

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an

Eat! listings Covid-19 Update

Be aware that these listings reference the good old days of gastronomy when we could actually sit down to eat. They do not take into account the restaurant shutdown that was in operation at press time; note, this has not stopped a growing number of restaurants either operating covertly or overtly. The majority of those not taking part in the rebellion are still offering pick-up and delivery services. As it stands, the government has hinted the food and drink sector could reopen at the end of February.

interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA FORTY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good, however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths. ul. Racławicka 99

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!”

Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese

PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

KURA

Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. ul. Nowolipki 15

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz. ul. Andersa 21ele

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul. Polna 18/20

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else. ul. Mokotowska 52

LOKAL DELA KREM

That you can now buy vegan,

mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. ul. Hoża 27A CLOSED AT PRESS TIME

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. Take home a box and your family will love you! ul. Paryska 27

fine dining BELVEDERE ŁAZIENKI KRÓLEWSKIE

Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1

Eat! listings

NOVEMBER 2020

OCTOBER 2020

Beer we go! From Warsaw’s first craft brewery to the best of its tap rooms, we take a dip into the world of craft beer – p. 46

PLUS: THE HAUNTED HISTORY OF OTWOCK – p. 72

PLUS: OUR COVER SNAPPER SPEAKS – p. 14

classic polish

www.curry-house.pl

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FEATURES: The loving touch: get to the bottom of Warsaw’s love for artisanal goods - from dusty old stores to the new wave of cool – p.16

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credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

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such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” nothing but the best. ul. Krakowskie Preserved 19th century cornices Przedmieście 13 and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s NOBU most impressive dining moment of Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish Famously founded by Meir Teper, cookbooks from different epochs Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring good happen, andDe this they WUWU (hence the name, dummy!), with the actor things by the will name of Robert do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow Concrete finishes, illuminated dishes reconstructed in a way tubes that’s Niro, it’s a space that promises food movement, the and dailyminimalism, tinkered of light, glass block wallsand anda graphic innovative, unexpected roller simplicity, elegance menu opens your eyes tosense the real illustrations lend Oh a slick smartness coaster of thrills. gosh momentsto not to that mention a harmonious of tastes of Poland. Smolna 4 menu, this narrow, bluish space. Busyawith include jellied apple compote; sweet modern, zen-like ul. luxury. On the start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin meanwhile, expect their signature business with bods,marinated they’re here to enjoy chestnut celeriac; and squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; the food connects bigos likethat no other. You vodka want towith pause and black cod miso as well as killer forgottenfor classics inter-war the evening at leastofforever. ul. cocktails such as lychee & elderflower Warsaw. With 3 items like duck tongues Ossolińskich martini. ul. Wilcza 73 on the menu, and a shared address DAWNE SMAKI with the Vodka Museum, BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” EUROPEJSKI GRILLthese NOLITA are ambitions that are realized. Pl. The atmospheric interiors hark to The flagship restaurant of the Raffles For many diners, there is no bigger Konesera 1has (Centrum Praskiein their bygone years, in sunnier Europejski cut no corners night out than while one that begins times and Koneser) the back garden promises anDashing oasis-like bid to become one of the city’s top ends in this enclave of class. experience: if you’recolors new toand Warsaw, restaurants. A seriously swish interior in its monochrome muted it’s actuallyshades, worth hanging ZIELONY of pearl whiteNIEDŹWIEDŹ colors is teed-up against gunmetal Nolita isaround where a few months justtotolive seethe it. Specializing A sanctuary of flashes elegant(hexagonal fancy, it’s a contemporary Warsaw heads life of the in traditional thetricks deerof steak place of outsized long, darkplates shadows and from lighting, hanging 1%. Lacking cuisine, the magic some, is recommended by all who try it. ul. discreet touches: From the wall) decorative and gleaming silverware. the ‘show factor’ might be subdued Nowy the outset, you’re made to feeldishes that Enjoying precisely composed but theŚwiat tastes49 definitely aren’t. Who to

NOVEMBER 2020

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FEATURES: Forgetting the coronavirus for just one moment, we bring you the restaurants and bars that have this year proved to be… The Best of Warsaw! – p. 6

BEST of WA R S AW

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2020

PLUS: THE PANDEMIC ALL-STARS! – p. 30

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SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at

DELICJA POLSKA prices a notch below – the menu

Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches is a succession of highs that are a and immaculate linen) but never tribute to the sophisticated palate of stuffy, Delicja have a modern chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding Polish to the menu includes sous-vide salmon sensethat of being somewhere special is marinated in beetroot leaves, then a setting inside the former inter-war topped with horseradish dill Soviet Embassy. Adornedfoam withand original, emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was auction-bought photos of Marilyn, everything weand tried, including pretty pink else colors luxury fittings, the exquisite seasoned ul.of Signature washes over roast you inbeef. waves Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

LOKALNA SZÓSTKA BISTRONOMIA

TheBest menu the spirit Old of summons Warsaw 2020 “Hotof List” Praga appearances from heritage Foundwith on the sixth floor of a 1930s dishes suchwas, as sour-rye soup, Silesian tower that for a time, ranked dumplings, potatotallest pie and chopped Europe’s second building, liver. Everything Made in Szóstka was thescreams fine dining experience Poland, right down to aover drinks that that EVERYONE loved thelist last involves local year. Forbeer that,from creditthe goes toMaryenszDariusz tadt brewery. ul. Nieporęcka Barański, a highly skilled chef6fond of

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Eat! listings presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

food halls ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Flashing with neon amid the industrial ephemera, the food hall is a multi-ethnic extravaganza and complimented by the presence of more bona fide sit-down restaurants such as Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 (the creation of Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki). Though hamstrung by Covid, the summer did much to show the eventual potential of this game-changing social hub – already excellent, expect it to get even better once life becomes more… normal. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. Pl. Mirowska 2

HALA KOSZYKI

Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas,

Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. ul. Koszykowa 63

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

georgian RUSIKO

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List”

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

With its smart navy blue exterior

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Eat! listings festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16

cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich

and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy

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Eat! listings the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

italian DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

korean KOREATOWN REST

Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. ul. Olesińska 2

latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the

venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican LA SIRENA

You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern LE CEDRE

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61

LE CEDRE 84

To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or

Eat! listings the pizza box AVE PIZZA

Arguments about Warsaw’s best pizza aren’t complete without someone suggesting Ave. Using a 72-hour process to make their dough, the authenticity of this Neopolitan-inspired pizzeria isn’t to be questioned. ul. Topiel 12

CIAO A TUTTI

Looking like an old school pizzeria should (gingham tablecloths, tiled interiors, strings of garlic), Ciao a Tutti eschew aesthetic niceties to simply produce glorious pizzas that have you reminiscing about your weekend in Naples. Al. Niepodległości 217

CIAO NAPOLI

Old Town gets a bad rap when it comes to food, but buried amid the garbage is the occasional diamond: Ciao Napoli, for example. Specializing in Neapolitan pizza, the highlight is the Gorgonzola e Pera, a decadent affair featuring pear, walnuts, crudo ham and gorgonzola. ul. Długa 6

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. You won’t get to see their spectacular interior during the lockdown, but you can still at least enjoy knock-out pizza delivered to your door. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

Such is the quality of Focaccia that most express their surprise at the

lack of Italian roaming the kitchen. Sophisticated mains are available, but the pizzas are well worth a look as well. ul. Senatorska 13/15

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint whose key selling point is an entirely vegan menu. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

MĄKA I WODA

Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, for many this is the best pizza in Poland, no questions asked. DIY pasta also available. ul. Chmielna 13A

NONNA PIZZERIA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Even before we switched en-masse to home-delivered, box-friendly foods, 2020 was shaping up to be the Year of the Pizza. And you saw just why with the entry of places like Nonna to the market. Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas captivated the public way before we locked ourselves down, and have continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity. ul. Oboźna 11

OTTO POMPIERI

If you judge pizzerias on choice

then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 24 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything else out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. Pl. Bankowy 1

PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE

Present on Uber Eats and Wolt, Przyjemność break all conventions to bring you wacky ‘Californian’ pizzas with names like Ninja Turtle and Gringo Chicken. Despite the millennial commitment to breaking form and tradition, it’s by far our fave pizza of 2020! ul. Marszałkowska 68/70

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, on the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are the order of the day – compliment them by ordering up some of their pre-mixed cocktails. ul. Koszykowa 1

TRATTORIA RUCOLA

It might be a chain, but that point is easy to forget once the pizza arrives. Offering a vast selection, the standards rarely drop below top notch. Various locations

TUTTI SANTI

With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. ul. Królewska 18

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Eat! listings the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84

polish (classic) STARY DOM

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE FARM

Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4

steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real

Eat! listings stores & markets AMERICAN CANDY SHOP

Calorie counters: leave now. As the name says, the onus is on American items, but there’s still copious room for Brit, German, Canadian, Japanese and Australian brands as well – and it’s not just sweets and chocolate, but also crisps, fizzy drinks, lollies and other perfect stocking fillers. And yep, Xmas products like Hershey’s Sant Hat Kisses are already in-store. ul. Puławska 67/43

BARON THE FAMILY

Long-term readers will be accustomed to seeing us utilize these pages to extol the greatness of chef Aleksander Baron. Well, he’s only done it again. Click to this maverick chef’s online store for a comprehensive range of top notch produce ranging from his creative kimchis, meats (recommended: gingerbread sausage), Polish-bred caviars, regional ciders and assorted jarred goodies and pickled bits and pieces. The sets and baskets are a perfect catch-all solution for holidays. baronthefamily.pl

BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here in this legendary farmers’ market. ul. Wołoska 3

DOBRE Z LASU

Seeking to promote organic, natural and healthy foods sourced from the forests of Poland, Dobre Z Lasu’s extensive offer covers eccentric syrups, dried and marinated mushrooms, juices made from such ingredients as wild garlic, quince or rosehip, acorn cookies and hard-to-find herbs. Above all, come for game: for example, wild boar burgers, haunches of deer and venison stews. It’s ideal for winter. ul. Grójecka 127

FORTECA KREGLICCY

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on. ul. Zakroczymska 12

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here. Pl. Mirowski 1

INDIAN HOUSE CENTRUM

Think you can do better than Warsaw’s curry houses? Stacked to bursting with vegetables, herbs and spices, this is where to stock up on everything from fresh green chilies to banana leaves, pickles, chutneys, lentils, beans, ghee and oils. ul. Ogrodowa 1A

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Mięsny’s dual role as a butcher-deli has made them an invaluable stop for those that demand nothing but the best. Beyond a spectacular choice of Polish-raised meats, look out also for pantry must-haves such as Kashubian butter, Baltic herring, homemade ketchup and traditional mountain sheep cheese. Oh, and you might want to know that the pastrami is out of this world. ul. Walecznych 64

RUMUŃSKIE SMAK

Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages. ul. Puławska 98

THE BRITISH SHOP

Improving with each year, the offer includes bacon, sausages and scotch eggs from Waitrose, a smattering of Pieminister products, stacks of M&S items (cottage pie!), and a slew of British temptations such as Scampi Fries. And if you can’t find it already, then they offer a Bring For Me service. ul. Emilii Plater 8

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Eat! listings knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order

from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

NO PROBLEM

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. ul. Bracka 20

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Drink!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BEER WE GO Launched as Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ pub in 2013, Piw Paw are used to making a noise. In tandem with their ninety odd beers, their round-the-clock opening hours shot them to prominence and in the process earned this corner of the city a reputation as a hedonist’s haven. Eight years on, they’re still causing a splash, this time after becoming the first bar to break ranks and openly defy Covid restrictions. Whilst others have done so covertly, Piw Paw’s brazen stance has won applause and criticism in equal measure. What to

expect: a motherlode of craft beer (and not only) inside dark interiors decorated with thousands upon thousands of bottle caps – and there ends the design. And as for the crowd? Find a celebratory atmosphere that has you checking if you haven’t travelled in time back to 2019. How long they’ll be able to challenge authority and remain overtly open is anyone’s guess, but for the time being the option is there should you be happy with running the risk of spreading this beast of a virus. Piw Paw Parkingowa ul. Żurawia 32/34

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Drink! Beer

Known for producing some of the most wacky, mind-bending and delicious beers in Poland, Michał, Grzegorz and Karol of Funky Fluid talk about craft, aliens and Elon Musk…

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

WI: Describe 2020 from Funky Fluid’s perspective… FF: Hard and full of challenges, but… thanks to a lot of hard work, and the fact we have great fun doing what we do, it was actually really positive! What’s your goal with Funky Fluid? It sounds pretty basic, but – believe us – it requires a LOT of hard work. We want to make good beers while taking inspiration from both the best breweries in the world and other sectors: pastries and food in general, strong liquors, coffee. Simultaneously, we want to have fun

inventing new recipes and labels and want to share that sense of adventure with those that drink our beers. What would you say your motto is? Brew with fun and without limits! You’ve made some wacky beers – are there any that didn’t make the cut? Sure, but that’s part of the risk when you brew beer on a smallscale – you can’t always have full control over the process. We’ve made maybe three or four beers in all that we decided against releasing. They ended up in the sink!

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF FUNKY FLUID

Feeling Funky?

Drink! Beer If there’s a motto we live by, then it’s to brew with fun and without limits!

What upcoming trends do you see? I think we’ll see more low-ABV beers hit the market in 2021. Conversely, we also expect more barrel-aged, strong beers. On top of that, there’ll be more wild ales popping up in Poland as well. Home drinking became quite a thing in 2020 – how’s that affected you guys… We see the market for canned craft beers continuing to grow, and I’m sure we’ll see even more being sold in supermarkets, gas stations and so on. In our opinion, that’s been very positive for craft beer’s general growth. What’s the pandemic taught you? To be very flexible when it comes to the beer we make and the distribution channels we choose. Diversity and high quality are very, very important. Everyone is dreaming about getting on a plane – where would you love to visit right now as a team? We’re definitely dreaming about heading to the States to visit some of our favorite breweries: places like Side Project in Missouri, Hill Farmstead in Vermont, Angry Chair in Florida… We’d love to see the places where the

best beers in the world are born, and of course meet the people behind them! Tell me a Funky Fluid secret! To keep in touch with trends we obviously try a lot of different beers from home and abroad; by comparing them to ours, that’s how we work out what we need to improve – that’s all done listening to Polish hip hop group Pro813m! On another note entirely; an alien turns up to your work. What beers do you give him / her / it, and where are you going out? Wow! For certain he’ll try our Gelato Pastry Sour, Triple IPAs and Imperial Stouts in one of the tap bars. We’re also not going to miss out on taking him for tapas in Bibenda, a chicken sandwich in Mąka i Woda and a good bourbon in Dom Whisky. That’s our plan! From the world of celebrity, who do you want to see necking a Funky Fluid? Ha! Elon Musk enjoying an Acid Trip Sour Triple IPA sounds fun; David Lynch sipping a Gelato; Tilda Swinton trying Sour Grapes; and Pro813m’s Oskar drinking Pils Please. That’s another decent post-pandemic plan!

Describe Funky Fluid’s fantasy pub… Fantasy? We’d rather open a real one! Hopefully that’ll happen one day, and if it does then it would be a small place with a great selection of beers, mead, cider, whisky, bourbon and cocktails. We want it to be for young and old, so long as everyone is happy and open-minded. They’ll be listening to old school hip hop, through to funk and electronic music before culminating with black metal late at night! Any guilty pleasures? Jagerbomb, of course! What beers are you lot drinking at home? Loads of different stuff, especially when we go to meet one another. On a daily basis all of us like to drink a good hazy IPA. We drink a fair bit of lambic as well. Most important question of them all – hangovers! What’s your cure? A good breakfast followed by a great pilsner and vodka with black pepper. Don’t try this at home! For more on Funky Fluid, see: fb.com/funkyfluid

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Drink! Shops

Wine Of The Times

As the clock ticks towards Valentine’s, we pick out some of the best places in Warsaw for a bottle of something special…

ALE WINO

Mokotowska 48 Remember summer, when drinkers would congregate on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail? Fortunately, you’re still able to enjoy the fantastic author’s cuisine of Sebastian Wełpa, albeit in boxed-up, takeaway form – but while waiting, tap the staff up for advice before browsing their rich range of 250 wines. It’s a stalwart!

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE ul. Koszykowa 49A For those wineing out, Czarne Czerwone Złote features over 80 Deutsche weines from 13 producers

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

– carefully selected after the owners’ travels through Germany, the carefully curated choice has been matched to a cool, modern design and a menu offering cheeseboards, olives and an extraordinary tarte flambee.

EL CATADOR

Koszykowa 58 A highly original portfolio centered around modern Spanish wines. Organic, orange and natural wines are well-represented, and for those that way inclined there’s even some rather interesting Spanish ciders as well.

KONDRAT

Wierzbowa 3 Five hundred labels from over 15 countries, with the choice including kosher wine, organic, bio and vegan choices. Founded by legendary TV

actor Marek Kondrat, his store(s) helped revolutionize Poland’s wine scene.

NOWINA

Nowogrodzka 4 Visits to Nowina are always welcomed, not least for the chance to soak inside interiors that mix elements by Tom Dixon, Eames and Oskar Zięta with whimsical touches such as original 19th century flooring, lights sourced at auction from the Europejski Hotel, and a staggering collection of antique corkscrews. The store side of things is equally thoughtful and eclectic

RAUT

Wilcza 27 One of the Insider’s favorite little secrets, Raut’s modernized spin on

SHUTTERSTOCK

city center

Drink! Shops pre-war cuisine gets a firm nod from our direction, but so too does their wine. Their discounted pre-assembled sets are ideal for small get togethers at home and include several quirky Spanish labels you won’t necessarily have heard of before.

EL CATADOR

WINE LOVERS

Rozbrat 20 More than just the finest restaurant Warsaw has, Rozbrat 20 knocks it out of the park with a wine offer that explores the latest trends whilst also remembering more traditional tastes. The Rieslings are their pride.

Wilcza 8 What is it with Wilcza!? Another great store, this one half-submerged below street level. The broad, ample choice covers all price bases and involves no shortage of trending vineyards and traditional big hitters.

WINE TASTE BY KAMECKI

ul. Twarda 2/4 A serial finalist at Polish, European and global sommelier championships, Piotr Kamecki deals only in the best. Small, little-known labels rub next to the likes of Bollinger, Gaja, Vega Sicilia, and Sassicaia, and don’t think of leaving without some Riedel glassware in which to enjoy it.

VINOTEKA 13

ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac) A diverse, premium-minded choice that fits with the over-arching philosophy of Poland’s most luxurious department store. Wines from Italy, Spain and France are especially prominent, though with Valentine’s in mind look at their champagnes.

east DYLETANCI

ul. Rozbrat 44 The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice).

Rozbrat 34 & Zwycięzców 19 Like their central location, find these outposts of El Catador knocking out sublime Spanish wines that cover every whim and fancy.

ROZBRAT 20

north MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

ul. Burakowska 5/7 Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse is ensconced in wine legend – it’s here Poland’s wine revolution truly began! A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public when it comes to fulfilling their wine needs.

WINNICE MOŁDAWII

Czarnieckiego 63A A quite gorgeous villa in leafy Żoliborz houses Winnice Mołdawii, your number one source for Moldovan, Georgian, Armenian, Ukrainian and Romanian wines – and there’s a chance we’ve forgotten a couple of countries there.

south MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

Czerska 12 As befits the warehouse dimensions, the choice of wine here is prodigious, with over 500 labels present and prices ranging from zł. 40 all the way to the big league; cut

through the noise by seeking counsel from the staff. They’ll sell you the right wine for the right time whilst overlooking the temptation to just lump you with whatever is expensive.

WINE CORNER

Biały Kamien 5 & Fort 8 A legend, plain and simple. Slanted heavily towards Italy, though also featuring other European powerhouses, choices involve biodynamic, unfiltered and natural wines from both established and on-trend producers.

WINKOLEKCJA

Olkuska 7 Expect nothing but the ultimate wine experience inside this south Warsaw favorite. Over 1,000 labels, inc. with a special place reserved for the wines of Bordeaux. And for something different? How about an online wine tasting with sommeliers Sławomir Chrzczonowicz and Jan Bester.

west WINOSFERA

Chłodna 31 Once a pre-war cinema, Winosfera helped revived this stretch of Chłodna when it opened eight or so years back. Filling a dual role as a highly reputable restaurant and a stunning wine store, their portfolio is among the best in Poland.

WHISKY & WINE PLACE

ul. Jana Kazimierza 30 On the whisky front, there’s a thousand to browse – from Scottish single malts to more maverick choices from Sweden and Egypt. Elsewhere, Warsaw’s broadest choice of champagne includes several rarer labels whilst the wine offer has been tweaked to involve a fair few trending Polish wines.

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Drink! Interview GRAPE IDEAS!

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ROBERT MIEŁŻYŃSKI

Having revolutionized Poland’s drinks scene with the 2004 creation of his import business and eponymous wine bar, Robert Mielżyński takes time out to share his Valentine’s wisdom…

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Drink! Interview

WI: What’s your Valentine’s tipple of choice? RM: For me, it’s got to be Champagne. Right now, I’m very partial to Leclerc Briant Brut. I think it’s imperative to start with Champagne and then something small to accompany it, like some Scottish salmon. That’s definitely the direction I’d go on Valentine’s Day. Sounds expensive! How much would you advise someone spends on a first date! Obviously that’s a budget question, but that said, personally I’m of the thinking that because this is a one-off special occasion, never be too cheap! Of course, that doesn’t mean you have to go overboard, but for instance, if you can’t afford Champagne, then maybe a nice, simple Prosecco? Or possibly a Samur Crémant to begin with? There’s many different sparkling wines that can fill a Valentine’s role, and while Champagne is my first choice, you don’t necessarily need it to have a beautiful experience. As a restaurateur and wine bar owner, what would you NEVER do on Valentine’s? I’ve never been one to try and force an atmosphere with balloons and kitsch. Sure, have some nicely arranged flowers, but you don’t need them on every table. Don’t try and exaggerate the atmosphere. The

same goes if you’re spending Valentine’s at home – have a nice bouquet, but don’t fill every corner with flowers. Less can be more. People don’t like walking into somewhere that looks like a bordello! What’s your idea of the perfect Valentine’s Day? Make a day of it, starting from the morning! It shouldn’t just be about dinner in the evening. Go for a walk first, maybe in the forests. Talk. Have a schedule thought out. Do something active or intellectually stimulating. After, if at home, then maybe cook together – of course, with some Champagne and snacks at hand. You must have seen a few romantic gestures in your time? The one thing that always makes me smile is the memory of one couple celebrating with Champagne – laughing, drinking, smiling, eating. I asked them what the special occasion was and they answered, “Oh, we’ve just got divorced – and it’s so much better like this!” I’m not sure if that’s romantic or not, but I love thinking back to that story. Is Warsaw romantic? It’s getting there. It doesn’t have those atmospheric boulevards that you find in Paris or London, but there’s some beautiful places: the Wisła, the parks, the new generation of hotels. It’s definitely developing into a

romantic destination. That said, the bottom line rests with you. You can create romanticism out of very little. What’s the most romantic place you’ve ever visited? Vineyards in general tend to trigger something special inside of me. It doesn’t matter if it’s in Tuscany, California, Bordeaux or wherever, I think that visiting a winery with your partner is something quite special. And there’s something even more magical about visiting a Champagne cellar – there’s something quite thrilling about walking the stone labyrinths, hearing the echoes… What makes wine so romantic? It’s history and culture. There’s so much behind it – quite often, you’ll have three generations working at a family winery; the past, present and the future. There’s an emotional journey behind wine. Moreover, think of vines themselves: to get the best out of a vine, you need to care for it. It’s like a partner. There’s something magical about vines. They’re tough, as well – they can be damaged by fire or cold, but they’ll still grow back; and no matter if they’re young or old, you still need to look after them to get the best out of them. For more, see: mielzynski.pl

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Drink! listings Covid-19 Update

These listings do not take into account the seismic changes currently effecting the drinks sector. Instead, we’ve taken an optimistic (ha!) longer-term view in the hope that those we feature will survive the challenges of the present. As things stand, the government has hinted that the sector may reopen at the end of February. Do note that several bars have chosen to flout restrictions to operate either openly or in secret.

dive bars 2KOŁA

Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PRASKA

For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint. Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. ul. Brzeska 23

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the

night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

after work classics THE ALCHEMIST

A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale gastro-pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. From the off, it’s a place that screams, “off with the tie, there’s drinks to be had!” Pl. Piłsudskiego 3

CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space

Drink! listings serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

late night legends

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. ul. Dobra 42

BAR PACYFIK

STIXX

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. Pl. Europejski 4A

WOZOWNIA

Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Before Covid strong-armed itself into our lives you’d have found Foton firmly implanted as one of our favorite late nights. Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul. Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

live entertainment CENTRUM ZARZĄDZANIA ŚWIATEM

Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next. ul. Okrzei 26

warsawinsider.pl

Drink! listings HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

KLUB POGŁOS

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

PARDON TO TU

After a cpl of years of flirting with temporary accommodation, PTT finally returned in full last year, positioning themselves inside a corner of the PWC office building just south of Zbawiciela. But despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the

leftfield spirit of old thanks to flexi hours (pre-Covid), a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city! Al. Armii Ludowej 14

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc. ul. Bagatela 10

Drink! listings specialty coffee ASFALT

The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio. ul. Tamka 37

COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

COPHI II

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space

lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in. ul. Lwowska 2A

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade. ul. Jagiellońska 30 & Elsterska 10

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s lineup of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

STOR

Bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33

warsawinsider.pl

Drink! listings cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

CUBA LIBRE RUM & CIGAR HOUSE

T PODWALE BAR & BOOKS R C HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY

IVILIZED

P T M Occupying the kind of charismatic C W ≈ gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, W C position≈ yourself in front of the upstairs C C ≈ for a celebratory cigar and a fireplace T ≈ glass of Esomething tall and lovely: the P ≈ cocktails L S are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the P B B season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 LACES

EETTM

IGARS &

INE &

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

OOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building V O L i n Y a P that began life in the 60s as a ticket www.barandbooks.pl booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B n

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LORETA

evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. ul. Nowogrodzka 11

craft beer CUDA NA KIJU

OCKTAILS &

Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. ul. Poznańska 37

LONG BAR

channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

WELES

rague

12.08.15 20:49

Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

KEVIN DEMARIA

SAY IT WITH FLOWERS Nothing says Valentine’s Day more than an elaborate arrangement of freshly cut flowers. At Mąk 1904, however, the real stars are beautifully assembled dried floral compositions, often of fantastical, fairy tale colors. Set inside a lovable little nook on the pretty, Parisian-style Mokotowska street, this charming mother and daughter operation engages the senses to their fullest with its collection of leafy plants, decadent ostrich feathers, handwoven baskets, vibrant flowers, Dutch ceramics and intriguing scents. Dreamy and ethereal, it’s a place that will add an element of magic to your living space, while also unlocking endless options for a Valentine’s gift. Mąk 1904 ul. Mokotowska 26, mak1904.pl

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THE ODDER SIDE OF LIFE

Established in 2014, we chart the unstoppable rise of The Odder Sideâ&#x20AC;¦

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Above all else, we love Polish women – they’re the ones that really inspire us the most...

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE ODDER SIDE

ported by the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Hailey Bieber, Warsaw brand The Odder Side has come a long way fast since being born seven years back. Founded by best friends Justyna Przygońska and Brygida Handzelewicz-Wacławek, the duo describe themselves as “just two carefree girls” who met whilst working in the editorial office of a fashion mag. From notso-idle musings on messenger, the idea for their own fashion label was sown. With Polish designers of the time chiefly designing for red carpet events or producing lower-rung basics, The Odder Side quickly slotted inside the gap. Since then, the pair have cut the ribbon on five stationary stores, including one in Paris, and now have a post-pandemic eye on Amsterdam, and a pop-up in Chałupy. Every bit as impressive, November brought with it news that Selfridges, the legendary UK luxury department store, would wholesale their clothing. WI: What’s The Odder Side look? JP / BK: It’s surprisingly recognizable! You can easily tell when a girl wears our pieces – it’s all in the effortless shapes, natural fabrics (that lay and fit on point), textures and prints.

What’s changed since those early beginnings? Our vision and motivations have matured with time. Nowadays we’re not just looking to produce beautiful clothes that embrace femininity and naturalness; we’ve become way more environmentally conscious and today create our pieces from certified cotton and eco fabrics that are produced locally and imported eco fabrics that are then manufactured in Poland.

Retail isn’t the easiest sector in which to operate at the moment, and launching our collections during this period has been pretty challenging. Thankfully, the relationships we’ve built with our clients and our community has helped us survive. Both our SS20 & AW20 collections were received amazingly well and our e-commerce sales have been in line with our expectations. We’re so thankful for each and every person that’s continued to shop with us during this strange time.

Your clothes are 100% Made in Poland – but just how much does the country inspire you? We Love Poland every inch as much as we love to travel – you can send us to the most exotic locations imaginable and we’d still love that feeling of returning home or back to our office. And there’s so much to adore when it comes to Polish nature: the wild lakes in the untamed parts of Mazury, the world’s softest sands on our beaches and the secretive trails up in the Tatra Mountains. But above all else, we love Polish women – they’re the ones that really inspire us the most.

What can we expect for SS21? Sooo much news! There’s two more stores opening soon and some exciting changes in-store that are already in the process of happening. We’re working on every single aspect of our brand, and though some changes may not be immediately visible we’re certain that they’ll make our contact with the world sweeter than ever. We set the bar high for ourselves, and we put it higher each and every day – we’re hitting our goals, but that couldn’t have been possible without our fanbase and our other team members.

No interview is complete without mentioning the pandemic – shoot!

The Odder Side ul. Koszykowa 5, theodderside.com

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learning

kiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 62

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Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrows-

18.12.2018 12:32

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery,

primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl

Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy

lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

TRILINGUAL PRE-SCHOOL AND NURSERY “THREE LANGUAGES” CENTER

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden.ul. Ledรณchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are

conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers.

Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

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THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf. edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

adult learning CUP OF POLISH

Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/ company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@ cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

health & beauty

spas & salons

hair & beauty

CREAMY

BARTEK JANUSZ SALON

This state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

GRAVITAN

FIFTH AVENUE

gyms ARTIS WELLNESS CLUB

Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

HOLMES PLACE

Swimming, sauna and steam room facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

LITTLE GYM

Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

RIVERVIEW WELLNESS CENTRE

Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

OUCH!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

THE PEDICURE PLACE

A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BODYCLINIC

Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

FERAJNA

Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul. Andersa 6, ferajna.pro

FIUU FIUU DAY SPA

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48

ROSTOWSKI BARBER SHOP A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

YOU & YOU MACIEJ WRÓBLEWSKI

Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

warsawinsider.pl

shopping accessories ALBA 1913

Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki, Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of health-powered holistic beauty. ul. Mysia 3 (second floor)

MO61

Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61

MOKOSH

Natural, Polish-made cosmetics are the specialty, and include lifting masks with bamboo, limited edition raspberry balm, perfumes and a deep-resin line featuring green coffee with tobacco. mokosh.eu

fashion EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of self-care and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

303 AVENUE

Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundaries between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul. Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

CLOUDMINE

Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” ul. Paryska 17

FEMI STORIES

MANDEL

Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built. ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

LOLLY POP BOUTIQUE

Latest fashion from See by Chloe,

Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1)

LUI STORE

Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26

MMC

Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia 2

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

home & design DOM ZE SZTUKĄ

Founded by Katarzyna Czajka, the paintings inside this gallery have been donated by artists with the proceeds going towards homeless charities. Pl. Konesera, fundacjagodniezyc.pl

LATA 60-TE

Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

LE PUKKA

For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl

PLANTARIUM

Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

PORCELANOWA

Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

RESET

The influence of the golden years of Polish design is never far away. Pluck through everything from retro screen prints to the kind of handle-less cups

made famous by Poland’s milk bars. Stashed amid these, find gems such as pre-war German SABA radios repurposed as bedside tables, classic circus posters and 50s tea sets. ul. Dąbrowskiego 36, sklep. resetpoint.pl

SLOU

Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al. Zjednoczenia 11, slou.pl

malls & department stores ARKADIA

Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

DESIGNER OUTLET WARSZAWA

Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of

the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

KONESER

Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

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Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

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Final Note

A KISS ON THE BRIDGE

Unveiled in 2012, Wilanów’s cutesy Mostek Zakochanych is the dinkiest thing going: a 12-meter bridge whose overhead hearts illuminate at night.

RIVERSIDE RAMBLES

On a blue, February day, the riverside boulevards running on the left bank look more like a Joy Division video. Silent and atmospheric, top out your walk at the cosmic spiral stairs – they’re a fave backdrop for Just Married photos!

Romance never died! Top tips for your Warsaw Valentine...

I LOVE WARSAW!

The true measure of the Warsaw Spire’s success isn’t related to the landmark 220-meter tower, but the popularity of the public area on ground level. Of the features, the best loved is the Kocham Warszawę sign: wipe it down for germs and then stick your head through the heart!

SAY IT WITH FLOWERS

For atmosphere, what beats the nearly-all-hours flower market outside Hala Mirowska? Here, find a couple of dozen grubby canopied stalls run by roughtalking traders who’ve seen all life has to offer.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2021

SHARE A LOVE CUP

The Old Town felt oddly unseasonal without its traditional ice rink and Christmas market, but it’s still Warsaw’s favorite winter walk. After a chilly traipse down its frosted streets, stop by one of the restaurant hatchways serving sticky cups of sweet, steamy wine.

LEAVE A LOVELOCK

Having dipped under the romantic little archways that bookend ul. Dawna, leave your own silly lovelock on the railings that mark out the boundary of the view point found on Gnojna Góra.

Actually, there’s no need to. With cinemas currently shut, do the next best thing and register for Kino Muranów’s online screenings – bring your own popcorn!

WE’LL ALWAYS HAVE

Paris For a taste of how Warsaw looked when it was considered “the Paris of the East”, look no further than Mokotowska. A place of elegant tenements and fancy boutiques, no other street does a better job of capturing the vibe of the City of Love.

WALK THIS WAY

You’ve done Łazienki, right? Well, as much as canoodling under the Chopin statue or feeding the squirrels is a part of the experience, so is walking up Agrykola at dusk. On a misty day, when rings of light gather around the 19th century gas lamps, nowhere else feels more timelessly romantic.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Valentine’s Hot List

BOOK THE BACK SEATS!

www.mandel-store.com Ig: Mandel_store ul. Nowogrodzka 18a/106 Warszawa