Warsaw Insider March 2021 #295

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#295

MARCH 2021 FEATURES: Neighborhood heroes! Warsaw’s historic workers’ estates – p. 16 PLUS: The Gallery of Ancient Art – p. 12

Murals: new arrivals – p. 6 Mies van der Rohe: local nominees – p. 8 Photography: Sandra Papiernik – p. 26

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Contents March 2021

Reviews: EAT!

First bite: Słodki Bez – p. 31 Interview: Annah Syta and Jonathan Roy of Koko & Roy Deli – p. 32 Spring Roll Challenge – p. 34 Review: Qrcze – p. 36

ANYONE SUBSCRIBING to the belief that ‘time flies’ clearly hasn’t lived through the past year. Like some ancient torture, it’s been long, excruciating and painful for all. And as we pass the landmark first anniversary of the lockdown last March, we do so with the plodding resignation that it’ll be a while yet till the all-clear sounds. If ever… But, enough negativity. With the new reality anchored around ‘making the most of what we already have’, we can count ourselves blessed that, at least, Warsaw isn’t short of open distractions – take the museums, for one. Faced with little choice but to renounce our more decadent vices, like the rest of the city we’ve used the month to tap into our more cultural side: presented within, find a bumper selection of museums, not to mention the inside story behind the creation of the Gallery of Ancient Art. Elsewhere, we bring you the scoop on some of Warsaw’s historic housing estates, ticked off the city’s latest murals, escaped inside the Liliputian world of Monika Nowak and lost ourselves inside the enchanting images of Sandra Papiernik. Keep smiling!

DRINK!

Golden oldie: Filtry Dobra Kawa – p. 39 Brewery spotlight: Browar Artezan – p. 40

Discover

Museum & Gallery Highlights – p. 57

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Creative Director Kevin Demaria

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In the News... NATIONAL

Making News PROGRAM “MEDIA BEZ WYBORU”

Poland’s independent media outlets found themselves at the center of the news in mid-February after a self-imposed one-day blackout protesting against a planned tax on ad revenue. Across the country, Poles woke to find TV screens and web portals running such slogans as “this used to be your favorite show”. With dozens of newspapers and TV channels joining the action, the unprecedented move came amid rising concerns that media freedoms were being curbed.

CITY

The downtrodden area around Wola Park is to be rejuvenated as an innovative, eco-minded space that will pay tribute to its former role in history. Once known as Ulrich Gardens in honor of Jan Bogumił Ulrich (the 19th century gardener that took care of Ogród Saski), it was here that he kept rows of greenhouses that grew exotic fruit and veg. Now, courtesy of the WXCA architectural studio, the surviving historical elements are to be revived and transformed into a gastronomic hub and modern park and recreation space. ARCHITECTURE

High Times

The Mennica Legacy Tower has been recognized at the European Property Awards as the “best investment in Poland” and as the continent’s best new example of “Commercial High-Rise Architecture”. Composed of a 140-meter-tall skyscraper and another 43-meter tower, the 66,000 sq/m project was delivered by the internationally-renowned Chicago architectural studio Goettsch Partners.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL (2)

Going Green

In brief CHARITY

Over The Rainbow

The rainbow bag famously used by a grandmother to “beat” a policeman was sold for zł. 3,850 at a charity auction held at the end of January. Owned by Katarzyna Augustynek, the bag was plunged into the spotlight late last year after being at the center of one of the year’s more bizarre stories. Taking part in an anti-government protest, Augustynek was originally apprehended in November after being accused of attacking a policeman with her cotton bag. Cuffed and taken into custody, Augustynek’s actions made headline news across the country and, in the process, made her something of a cult hero. Modestly described by Augustynek as “a rainbow cotton bag that accompanied me during many demonstrations protesting against the removal of our freedom and dignity,” the item attracted twenty-five offers in all. The money raised will go to the WOŚP annual fundraiser.

The Accidental Hero A Belarusian migrant won Polish hearts last month after freeing a Warsaw bus that had come to a standstill in the snow. Seeing the vehicle blocking traffic on Belwederska, the 28-year-old rushed over to push it uphill. Joined on the scene by TVN journalist Paweł Łukasik, who had been reporting on the ensuing traffic chaos, the unlikely pair managed to jumpstart the bus.

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Later identified as Dmitry Salogub, the Belarussian had been completely unaware that his Herculean efforts were being relayed live to TV audiences. Tracked down after the video went viral, Salogub offered a modest explanation of his actions: “I didn’t do anything special. In our world, instead of helping, people make videos of everything. I don’t understand it… But you should

always be human and think of others. Then the world can change for the better.” Locals have been quick to praise the Belarussian’s civic spirit and the non-Polish speaker has since been offered a free language course as well as plumbing work. Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski has also weighed in, providing Salogub with a 90-day travel pass.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, SHUTTERSTOCK, WIKICOMMONS, JASIEK ZOLL

TRANSPORTATION

PHOTO OF THE MONTH

CITY

On Yer Bike!

Well-known for his compelling aerial imagery, Jasiek Zoll, a.k.a. Mr. Fly Guy, has again won the internet, this time with a shot taken of a lone person tracking down a snowy trail carved between hundreds of Veturilo bikes awaiting the spring cycling season. Raised on a diet of skateboarding

and rap music, the former hip hop promoter discovered his passion for drone photography in 2017 whilst working in television and advertising. Entirely self-taught, the Warsaw-born snapper describes his work as minimalist with his images peeling aesthetic layers to present his subjects in their most

accurate form. “I think we tend to love drone photos because they show the world from an angle that we’re not used to,” Zoll tells the Insider. “Simply put, this form of photography enables people to become birds, traveling the world and seeing it from their perspective.”

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INFRONT > MURALS

From The Walls Murals of the month...

Reminding us in February that “owning a dog is a privilege”, a temporary mural installed in ‘The Frying Pan’ area outside Metro Centrum found itself briefly going viral after enthralling the people of Warsaw with its depictions of happy hounds. Aiming to raise awareness as to how dogs should be treated, the mural was the initiative of the Rasowy Kundel Foundation and featured a number of the canines in their care. “In Poland’s villages and cities, there’s still a lot of people that don’t understand that a dog should be treated as part of the social unit that is the family,” said Dorota Perłowska, the President of the Rasowy Kundel Foundation.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A Dog’s Life

Save Our Gastro

A mural aimed at displaying solidarity with Warsaw’s beleaguered gastronomy sector has been unveiled outside Metro Politechnika in the city center. Executed for free by Good Looking Studio, the mural was inspired by the classified ads found in vintage newspapers, and namechecks twelve bars and restaurants ranging from hip cocktail bars and on-trend vegan eateries to specialty coffee points and PRL classics. “Many of the places featured belong to our friends or, simply, are just venues we like to visit ourselves,” explained Karol Klepacki of Good Looking Studio. “However, the mural has a symbolic value as well, and we wanted it to draw attention to the difficult situation the gastronomic sector is facing. We did this pro bono as our goal, basically, was to encourage Poles to support local gastronomy.” Well-known for their large scale, hand-painted advertising murals, Good Looking Studio have frequently won praise for their maverick and highly creative campaigns. But whilst commercial art is the specialty, this is not the first time they have involved themselves in community-minded actions. At the start of the pandemic, the agency found their work going viral after a string of feel-good messages were painted on walls across Warsaw. Equally well-received was a giant mural thanking the health service for their efforts.

COMING SOON?

Star Walls!

Warsaw Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski is said to be considering a request made by city councilor Kacper Pietrusiński for a Star Wars mural to be painted in the city center. “Star Wars is a cultural phenomenon that has gained generations of fans over 40 years,” wrote Pietrusiński in his submission. “But Star Wars is also more than just an ordinary entertainment film, and also broaches many elements of serious science… There are many dirty, gray walls in Warsaw that such a mural would greatly embellish, and in the process become a tourist attraction.” The proposal is now said to be under discussion.

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INFRONT > AWARDS

And The Nominees Are…

Competing for the title of Europe’s best building, over 20 Polish designs have been nominated for the prestigious Mies van der Rohe Award – of these, five hopefuls are from Warsaw and the immediate surrounds.

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL

INSIDER PICK

P4 True, the Służewiec district hasn’t always enjoyed the best press. Defined by its haphazard commercial evolution, the area’s laissez-faire development has resulted in grisly traffic jams, a dormant after-work scene and a mass of anonymous offices that make you wish for death. Not surprisingly, many call it Mordor. Slowly, however, even the detractors are having second thoughts, and that’s thanks to a new generation of projects such as P4. Designed by Jems Architecki, and redolent of the “new brutalist” style, the complex consists of four buildings: a pair of four-floor buildings and two of seven stories each. So say the architects: “The street-facing buildings have a rectangular shape, whilst the blocks at the back have a terrace-like form that cascades towards the ground. The terraces create the possibility of introducing additional greenery into the urban tissue. The V-shaped columns and massive beams form an expressive element that gives these buildings a unique character; meanwhile, the concrete frame system on which construction is based refers to the industrial heritage of the area.”

ALSO IN THE RUNNING… Elektrownia Powiśle Epitomizing the new live-work-play urban model, the 2020 launch of this stunning mixed use space gave the Powiśle district a spectacular calling card. But beyond the impressive retail offer, sceney bars and swanky offices, it is the retention of its historic character that stands out the most to make it so visually enticing. First constructed in 1904 to a design authored by English geezer William H. Lindley, this former power plant has taken industrial regeneration to a whole new level.

Józef Piłsudski Museum Considered the founder of the modern Polish state, it was high time that Piłsudski was awarded his own museum, but few could have imagined it would be quite so striking. Located in the satellite town of Sulejówek, the architects describe it as “an example of monumental contemporary architecture, one that combines skyhigh glazing with warm, beige concrete and an interesting white cube on the façade.” Despite the seriousness of its content, you don’t need to be a culture vulture to appreciate this space.

Warsaw Metro Unveiled last year in low-key circumstances (well, we were all locked down), Warsaw’s trio of new metro stops finally have the recognition they deserve after being collectively nominated for the Mies van der Rohe prize. Młynów, with its blue bubbles and cool white finishes, Płocka through its glimmering copper, and Księcia Janusza with its greenish glow and interlocking panels, all seem to signal a new age for Warsaw’s public transport.

Zodiak Forming one of the original cornerstones of the Ściana Wschodnia (the communist era concrete complex stretching from Świętokrzyska to Jerozolimskie), the Zodiak pavilion reopened in 2018 following years of neglect. Rebooted to serve as a place of ‘architectural dialogue’ and an ‘incubator for ideas relating to the future of the capital’, its sensitive restoration has included a remake of the neon that once crowned the building, a snazzy mosaic called Kosmos (inspired by the original crafted by Maria Leszczyńska), and a ‘suspended staircase’ connecting all three floors. warsawinsider.pl

INTERVIEW > ART

Little Wonders

Photographing tiny model figures trapped in the big, wide world, the images of Monika Nowak have won a fleet of admirers…

children’s educator by profession, Monika Nowak’s images of quirky Liliputian-style scenes have been met with a wave of enthusiasm since first debuting on social media. “I’ve been passionate about photography for several years,” Nowak tells the Insider, “but I became inspired when I came across the little worlds depicted in the photos of the British artist Slinkachu – I was fascinated. Viewing his work was like love at first sight, so the very next day I bought my

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first set of miniature figures and took photos of them.” Describing her photos as “an exercise in creativity”, Nowak today boasts a large collection of figures which she poses in different scenes before presenting the fruits of her labors on a Facebook page titled W krainie Liliputów. “The scenes play on everyday themes,” she says. “Sometimes they’re amusing, other times, they’ll have a moral message. I try and take viewers deep into their enchanted world, emulating the world of Jonathan

Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels.” Raised in Wielkopolska, but based in nearby Piaseczno for the last 18-months, Nowak admits to being taken aback by the public’s reaction to her work. However, the mother-of-two finds it understandable, tracing its popularity to our natural fascination with tiny, little worlds. “There’s a magic to miniatures,” she says. “They allow you to become a child again. Looking at them, your imagination runs wild. You smile. As importantly, we notice things that we don’t normally notice as adults.”

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INTERVIEW > MIROSŁAW NIZIO

Attracting over a thousand visitors per day since opening in early Feb, the long-awaited Gallery of Ancient Art has thrilled the Warsaw public. Mirosław Nizio, author of the project’s concept, speaks about its creation…

WI: What were the challenges and considerations that came into play whilst working on the Gallery of Ancient Art? MZ: For an architect, the challenge is always to create a concept that balances his idea for the project with the vision and resources at the disposal of the investor. In the case of the Gallery of Ancient Art, that wasn’t at all easy – but it was certainly interesting. That was down to the subject matter and the phenomenal collections that were to be put on display. Viewing the final result, I think we managed to create a unique place on Warsaw’s cultural map.

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PHOTOGRAPH TOP COURTESY OF MIROSŁAW NIZIO, ALL OTHERS BY PIOTR KRAJEWSKI

In Ancient Lands

The idea for a revamped Gallery of Ancient Art was born a long time ago – what took so long!? Yes, the very idea of rearranging the Gallery of Ancient Art is over a decade old. The gallery was closed to visitors in mid-2011, and after the rearrangement, it was opened in December 2020. Unfortunately, the official opening, due to pandemic restrictions, took place without the participation of the public. In 2014, my studio, Nizio Design International, won the competitive process for the design of the Ancient Art Gallery, organized by the National Museum in Warsaw. The result of winning the competition was the development of a multi-sector design for the conversion of the Gallery together with the exhibition design. Over the next five years, with varying intensity, we dealt with design works and also supervised the implementation of the project as its author. Despite the time involved, the core of the exhibition concept, and the underlying narrative, did not change. Obviously a few details did change here and there, which is quite natural for this kind of project, but throughout the implementation we were constantly consulting and working alongside curators, historians and the museum’s team. The ancient world covers a huge amount of topics. How do you create a narrative around such a vast subject – where do you even begin? The exhibition design assumed the creation of nine thematic galleries / halls through which we would lead visitors. Each of them is a testimony to the achievements of the powers of the ancient world: Egypt, the Middle East, Rome and Greece. Our goal was to show the interpenetration of these cultures and the impact they had on the development of modern Europe. From the beginning, the project assumed that the narrative would be based on the contrast between light and dark, life and death. warsawinsider.pl

INTERVIEW > MIROSŁAW NIZIO

The scenography, materials and finishing elements had to create an aesthetically uniform background for the museum exhibits. We took care of the details and the quality of materials – the key here was to maintain consistency with the style prevailing in any given cultural area. All this resulted in a project in which the set design does not dominate, but is subordinated to the exhibition function. Characteristic motifs taken from the art, architecture and topography of ancient civilizations are an element of the narrative and have been skillfully combined with the modernist interior in which the exhibition was created. We took advantage of the possibilities offered by the layout of the museum rooms to create something inspired by antiquity yet ascetic and still contemporary. The darkening of the windows and the installation of special lighting further allowed us to emphasize the symbolic content; for example, the sun’s wandering path in the sky or the conventional boundary between the world of the living and the dead. From a professional point of view, what did you learn from this project. Every project we work on brings some learning, and each is different and requires an individual approach. I think that working on the Gallery of Ancient Art allowed me to explore the secrets of ancient culture, and showed its richness and influence on the development of global culture, art, social and political sciences. Although multimedia plays a big role in many of your projects, here its use is quite sparing… The role of a designer is to create unique places. I’m very much aware of that, but simultaneously you have to be quite humble when approaching historical and educational spaces such as the Gallery of Ancient Art and the building of the National Museum in Warsaw. Other projects by Nizio Design International, such as the permanent exhibitions of the POLIN Museum and the Warsaw Rising Museum, use technology to a much greater extent. These multimedia elements are kept to a

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minimum in the Gallery of Ancient Art. Of course, we haven’t overlooked them completely (for example, they’re used to tell the story of elaborate Greek vase painting or art in Egypt and the Middle East), but undoubtedly multimedia plays a secondary role here. We focused on keeping the harmony of the place and really bringing out the beauty of the ancient exhibits. Finally, how important is this project for Warsaw? This is the largest and richest museum collection of ancient art in Poland and it’s home to many extraordinary exhibits. There’s as many as 1,800 relics,

among these the sarcophagus of the priest Hor Jihuti and the mummy of an unidentified woman; a papyrus scroll containing the Book of the Dead written in hieroglyphs; a portrait of a young Egyptian boy from the oasis of Fayoum; and an Iranian golden mask in the shape of a bull’s head. Truly, I’d encourage everyone to visit to learn more about the culture, art and customs of the ancient civilizations to which we owe so much today. Gallery of Ancient Art (National Museum in Warsaw) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, mnw.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

NOW URBAN FABRIC

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

People unite! Throughout its history, Warsaw has had a history of building housing estates for specific workers’ in mind: from architects and students to factory workers and officers, join us for an exploration of Warsaw’s often unsung residential quarters.

& THEN

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT BY KEVIN DEMARIA, RIGHT NAC

KOLONIA PROFESORSKA Ample proof exists that not all of Warsaw’s estates and so-called housing colonies were built for the blue-collar class – Profesorska is one such example. Entered via a wrought iron gate snuck away on Myśliwiecka street, ul. Profesorska was established by a housing cooperative of professors from the Faculty of Architecture at the Polytechnic, and while the author of the spatial plan remains a mystery, the 18 single-family houses were designed by the architects themselves. Largely taking their inspiration from the manor houses of Poland’s noble past, it was here that names such as Antoni Jawornicki, Czesław Przybylski and Oskar Sosnowski resided. Breaking form somewhat, Romuald Gutt’s home remains almost symbolic of the early modernist period. Surviving WWII pretty much intact (only one house was levelled), modern times have seen it become a fave of city photographers and the Insta generation: applying the same green aesthetics that were so popular in the ‘garden cities’ of the 1920s, it remains a place of quiet, tranquil charm.

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CITY HISTORY > HOUSING ESTATES

“To answer the inner-city problems of over-crowding, new workers quarters were built in places such as Bielany”

ZDOBYCZ ROBOTNICZA terraced housing. Funded by Poszycz Robotnicza, a housing cooperative associated with the Polish Socialist Party (PPS), all went well until financial difficulties were encountered. In a nutshell, Poszycz Robotnicza went bust and ownership of the estate was passed to the courts. At a stroke, prices were raised and the proletariat found themselves forced out onto the pavement: goodbye Utopia! In their place came a flock of more monied families, and despite sustaining sporadic damage during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, the area has kept much of its sedate, suburban atmosphere: visit at dusk when the vintage streetlights cast the cobbles in a glow.

ARCHIVAL PHOTOGRAPHS NAC, COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS WIKICOMMONS

Tempting as it is to look at inter-war Warsaw through a rose-tinted lens, the reality for most was far removed from the images we have of Gatsby-style parties and elegant living. For most, it was a matter of enduring slum life in dark, pokey tenements. To answer the inner-city problems of over-crowding, new workers quarters were built in places such as Bielany. Growing from a former Tsarist military training field, Zdobycz Robotnicza was one such project. Beginning in 1926, construction was overseen by Janusz Dzierżawski with the architect’s vision foreseeing the creation of a workers’ paradise of neat

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WSM KOŁO II Never was the necessity for workers’ accommodation more acute than in the immediate aftermath of WWII. New developments mushroomed around Warsaw swiftly, though there can be fewer that attracted more headlines than WSM Koło II – after all, where else could you have found an original Picasso decorating your home? Breaking from the Socialist Realist style of the time, and instead referencing the modernism of the pre-war age, WSM Koło II was the work of Helena and Szymon Syrkus, doyens of the Polish avant-garde. Together, the couple created an estate richly embellished with glazed entrance halls, quirky mosaics and other little frills. But the best was yet to come. While staying in Warsaw, Pablo Picasso was taken here on tour to view first-hand the bold rebuilding efforts. Impressed by what he saw, he climbed a ladder inside one apartment and drew a giant hammer-waving mermaid. “My God it was huge,” reported one witness, “her bosoms were like two balloons.” Soon after the completion of the apartment a couple moved in but grew increasingly irritated by the number of fans wanting a glimpse of this private Picasso – fed up of receiving up to 300 knocks per day, they hired a handyman to obliterate all trace. After all, it was only a Picasso. warsawinsider.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ALEX WEBBER, OPPOSITE NAC

CITY HISTORY > HOUSING ESTATES

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

OSIEDLE PRZYJAŹŃ Having rubber stamped construction on Warsaw’s defining feature – the Palace of Culture & Science – you’d have thought that the hard part would be building the damned thing. But city authorities were faced with another almighty challenge, that being, where the hell would they house the thousands of Soviet workers that would arrive to erect the thing. The answer, it transpired, lay in Jelonki, a fringe district of the city better-known at the time for its vast expanses of cabbage fields. Keenly guarded and fenced-off from the outside world, it was here that a new settlement grew. Spanning 30 hectares, and reputedly constructed using materials recovered from Stalag IB Hohenstein POW camp, what sprang up was a huge network of wooden cabins and dormitories – entirely self-sufficient, the village was supplemented by facilities that included a library, a store, canteen and a gym. When work on Stalin’s landmark contribution to Warsaw was completed in 1955, it followed logic to maintain the Przyjaźń estate, and it soon bloomed into a thriving student quarter housing an estimated 1,200 academics and an equal number of professors. Of the more well-known residents, actor

Krzysztof Tyniec lived here, as did the economist Leszek Balcerowicz. A little more curiously, so too did the future President of Mali, a chap by the name of Alpha Oumar Konaré. Life in those days centered around the Karuzela club house (which today looks like a freeze frame from a David Lynch film) and Kino Dar; the liberated atmosphere of this campus provided a sharp contrast to the general repression of the communist regime – in fact, in later years, two illegal printing presses functioned here independently of each other, churning out anti-communist books, papers, posters and pamphlets. Surviving to this day, the settlement has faced a new struggle in modern times against political inertia. Beset by a panoply of complex problems including restitution claims and ownership issues, the area has been consistently denied the widespread renovation and protection that it requires. Nonetheless, it has retained its unique ambiance, and in spite of the proximity of Wola’s stacked tower blocks, the district remains an idyllic sanctuary whose quaint, rural side streets and cheerful timber buildings bring to mind Poland’s backwater villages.

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CITY HISTORY > HOUSING ESTATES

When Żoliborz was incorporated into Warsaw in 1916 the move was seen as a prelude to the district’s subsequent boom. A stone’s throw from the city’s principal military stronghold, the citadel, it followed common sense to develop the area as a residential quarter for the top brass. Wouldn’t you know it, that’s precisely what happened. The first streets were built in 1922, with trending architects such as Romuald Gutt and Rudolf Świerczyński recruited for this process. England’s garden cities provided them with a base plan and great value was placed on filling the district with well-organized greenery. The houses, meanwhile, were attractive abodes, defined by their steep, red-tiled roofs and column-flanked porches. In these lived the military hierarchy, among them figures such as Stefan Rowecki (later murdered

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on the personal insistence of Himmler) and Władyslaw Anders (who would later break the stalemate at Monte Cassino). But despite its underlying uniformity, Żoliborz Oficerski also included several distinctive aes-

thetic touches like, for instance, the perfectly radial Pl. Słoneczny and the Gothic castle-style villas found on ul. Smiała. Now, like then, it remains an enviable place to live and a wonder to walk on a cool winter’s day.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, NAC, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, WIKICOMMONS

ŻOLIBORZ OFICERSKI

KOLONIA WAWELBERGA Though looking chipped, bruised and blackened, consider that a sign of creeping age – there’s no older housing estate in Warsaw. Built between 1898 and 1900 to a design by Edward Goldberg (credited with palaces from Liege to Crimea, and museums in St. Petersburg), it was funded by a 300,000 ruble donation that came from the financier and philanthropist Hipolit Waweleberg. His mission was admirable: seeking to erode social and racial stigmas, the complex was constructed to house poor workers and improve their chances in life. Three-hundred families settled here, and aside from modern housing facilities the area offered a doctor’s surgery, reading room, public baths and even a ballroom. If you’re visiting now, then do so with the distinct purpose of popping into the Zagoździński on Górczewska 15. Previously supplying Marshal Józef Piłsudski with his treats of choice, it’s the most famous donut shop in Poland!

“The mission was admirable: to house poor workers and improve their chances in life”

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CITY HISTORY > HOUSING ESTATES

Similar in style to Przyjaźń, yet smaller in scale and more intimate in its architecture, Jazdów, too, was born from Warsaw’s post-war years. Housing the architects and engineers involved in the rebuilding program, the first residents moved in during July, 1945, housed in easy-to-assemble cabins confiscated from Finland as reparations to the Soviet Union – the nickname, “the Finnish Houses”, stuck. Notable for their quaint wooden style and black tar roofs, these 54 sq/m units quickly became home to a thriving self-contained world. There was an artesian well, a shrine, kindergarten, grocery outlet and kiosk. In winter, an ice rink and toboggan run added to the sense of a secluded idyll of innocent pleasures. Though first intended to stand for just a decade, these buildings survived their expiry date and by the 60s played home to a thriving micro-community of artists, actors, writers and creatives. Known for its Bohemian atmosphere, it was to here that Beatles fans headed to mark the first anniversary of John Lennon’s assassination, smoking doobies and singing Give Peace A Chance.

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Entered into local folklore, the event was later formally commemorated when one street in this pastoral development was renamed ul. Lennona after communism fell. Alas, the political transformation brought bad news as well; scores of houses were flattened to make way for the German Embassy, whilst in 2011 a new low was hit when plans were unveiled to demolish the entire area – only when the Finnish Ambassador personally intervened did local councilors back down. More recent times have seen the area again touch base with its creative soul, with the numerous resident NGOs putting on – before Covid – approximately 1,500 events per year. Home to the Embassy of Traditional Music, a food sharing point, an urban beekeeping foundation and other such operations, Jazdów has become a firm part of Warsaw’s cultural fabric. But even without the NGOs, you know you’re somewhere special: set amid tight, tree-lined tracks, walking amid the wooden cabins is a joy interrupted only by the chirrup of birds and the distant donk, donk, donk of someone chopping wood.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE WIKICOMMONS, OPPOSITE KEVIN DEMARIA

OSIEDLE JAZDÓW

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COVER STAR > SANDRA PAPIERNIK

#ILOVEWARSAW An extraordinary ode to the city of Warsaw, Sandra Papiernik’s Instagram presents a beautifully layered image of the Polish capital...

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“Although I’ve lived here for years, Warsaw still has a habit of surprising me...” - Sandra Papiernik

WI: Is Warsaw easy to photograph? SP: Yes. This is a diverse city that’s full of contrasts: history and modernity are naturally joined and entwined, which means it’s not hard to find inspiration. Speaking of which, how does the city inspire you as a photographer? I’ve lived here for years but it still has a habit of surprising me – sometimes all you have to do is change up your normal route and you’ll come across something totally unexpected. What part of town do you photograph the most? The Old Town and Łazienki Królewskie – they’re photogenic all year round and simply never get boring. Any lesser-known favorites? I love wandering the streets of Żoliborz, especially in spring when the magnolias are in bloom or the autumn when the colors are rich and the leaves are falling.

can’t be replicated so you need to be ready to shoot spontaneously. How do you want people to view your photography? I hope people see the same beautiful city that I do. People regularly contact me on Instagram telling me that they fell in love with the city through my photos, so that’s immensely gratifying. What makes a good image? Creativity. Showing a different perspective to everyone else. And, never under-estimate the power of being in the right place at the right time! What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned? That you don’t need to be a professional photographer to create great images. Practice is the most important thing. Warsaw is… Beautiful – but you have to want to see that. To do so, try exploring a new neighborhood that you’ve never visited before; or just choose a different way home. Keep your eyes open – look around!

Do you plan your shots? My camera and I are pretty inseparable – I carry it wherever and whenever I can. Quite often, the things that make a great picture – For more of Sandra’s work, give a sunset, a reflection in a puddle, her a follow on: instagram.com/ a passing car, fog, rainbows, etc. – shandyy89 warsawinsider.pl

COVER STAR > SANDRA PAPIERNIK

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

“Warsaw is beautiful – but you have to want to see that” - Sandra Papiernik

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Eat! First Bite

Słodki Bez Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SWEET NOTHING

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that

we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. A delight to look at, and even better to taste, this sin-free kingdom is a legend in the making.

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Eat! Interview it off – we share a common approach to high quality, elevated comfort food and are passionate about getting that out to a wider audience. Talk us through Covid… It’s pretty hard to put so much blood, sweat and tears into building something with integrity, only to have a situation come along that’s completely beyond your control. We were still quite positive after the first wave, but once Round II came around it was clear that there was no way to survive so many months on such limited income. We did, however, feel very positive about our pivot to Koko & Roy Deli, so the decision to close was not without its silver lining.

Having founded the late and Koko & Roy restobar, Annah Syta and Jonathan Roy talk about rebounding from Covid with their new online deli…

WI: In the cold light of day, how do you hope Koko & Roy will be remembered, and what elements are you transferring to the deli? AS / JR: I think we built a really strong community; I hope we’re remembered for great food and the welcome and open atmosphere we had – that’s not to say we didn’t have a few legendary nights as well! But really, it’s that soul we aim to bring to the new business model, though of course in a different way. Where we previously focused on interior

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

design and atmosphere, we now put that effort into packaging, customer service, and creating a great online user experience. What else has changed! The most exciting new devolvement is our partnership with British executive chef Gareth Rowntree. He operated several restaurants in London before moving here (yes, for a Polish girl… and a baby!), and like us, was forced to close his place due to Covid. We met Gareth by chance and completely hit

Why the decision to pursue the deli? The Koko & Roy Deli brand had been on the back burner for a number of years, initially as a way to sell our Bacon Bourbon Jam with a plan to expand to more products. When the first lockdown came we had more time on our hands plus had to switch to a home delivery model anway. What challenges have you faced while pivoting the business?

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIA PONIATOWSKA, NOA PHOTOGRAPHY

RETURN OF THE LEGEND(S)!

At what point did you realize you needed to pull the shutter on the original venture? Once the second wave and lockdown started, we predicted that it would be at least five months till we could operate normally. Rents aren’t exactly cheap in the center, and with the government response not being what we felt it should have been, we basically had no choice but to close.

the bar top is still in storage! What is the principal takehome lesson from Koko & Roy 1.0? That having a good connection with people is essential. That’s what made Koko & Roy what it was, and now we aim to continue to have close contact with our customers despite the fact that we won’t always see them face-to-face.

For the pantry! Koko & Roy’s unique deli products reflect the mission of the original spot on Wilcza.

Primarily figuring out the shifts in our target audience and how to make contact with our new customers. Before we were selling a great night out to adults, now we are selling a great night in to families with children, or busy people who don’t have time to cook. And of course working out new types of problems like packaging and shipping – the food is the easy part!

You decided to stay in Warsaw – why! We’re very proud of the brand that we created and didn’t feel that we were done building it. Koko & Roy has so many facets that appealed to people, and despite the current pivot to building a prepared-food brand, we still have additional ideas for expansion. I’m not going to share too much, but let’s just say that

Your deli food is designed to complement what’s already in your pantry. Well, what’s in yours! Jonathan makes a lot of Dominican/Puerto Rican food, reminiscent of little hole-in-the-wall joints in New York, so there’s always a homemade sofrito in the fridge. Annah’s focus is Asian food, as she grew up in Taiwan and spent her youth visiting various parts of Asia, so there’s a lot of ingredients smuggled in from overseas trips or ordered online. For you guys, what’s the definition of a good meal at home… As with many other people right now, chilling out on the couch in style is our idea of perfect. Usually that involves some wine and a stellar snack board with cheese, dips and spreads. Or of course Taco Night (yes, shameless plug here, but Gareth’s tortillas and fillings won Best Tacos in London in 2017!). But overall, getting to enjoy anything that’s beautifully made and wildly delicious while remaining in your pajamas is the ultimate! For more on Koko & Roy Deli, see: kokoandroydeli.com

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Spring Roll Challenge

ROLL INTO SPRING The Insider’s spring roll challenge!

o, the same problem rears its head: school’s over and the kids are hungry. And you? You’ve had a tough day at work and just want to decompress. The solution? Take-away! Well, having already recruited the city’s finest little critics a few months back to judge the city center’s best wood-fired pizza, it was time to reassemble the team only with a new mission in sight: to find the city’s top spring rolls (a.k.a. sajgonki).

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

Picking up five orders of these meat-filled crispy critters, and making sure all were reheated to a temperature that was consistent, these were then presented to the panel who were instructed to pick their favorite. Comments and criticisms ranged from “too hard” to startled enquiries such as “why does this taste like pierogi” and “how come this tastes of mushrooms?” But by the fifth sampling, already it was clear that a runaway favorite had by now emerged: Oh My Pho. Loved by all, the announcement that they’d done more than enough to clinch the title was greeted with an expression that simply affirmed we’d stated the bleeding obvious: “well of course they did,” replied our jury. “They were the best.”

The Challengers 1. Cô tu Nowy Świat 22/28A 2. Toan Pho Chmielna 5/4 3. Oh my pho Wilcza 32 4. To To Pho Mokotowska 27 5. Ambasada Smaku

Made in Vietnam Hoża 27A

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Eat! Review

WINGS & THINGS

Some closures hurt more than others. Take Zkurczybyk, for example. No sooner had it established itself as the premier hot wing in town, then along came Covid and the ensuing gastro meltdown. But as one door closes, another one opens. Recalibrating their business model for the times, Ale Wino have partially rebadged to launch a side operation dealing out heavenly hot wings touched by the Gods. Beautifully juicy and smothered in a crisp, crunchy coat, these are things of near profound, holy glory. Yep, there’s the standard Buffalo wing (so named after the city, not the animal), but find also Indian and Korean-style options. Pair ’em up with batata fries for the kind of comfort food that’s called for during a global pandemic – this is food that makes the world slightly better. Qrcze ul. Mokotowska 48

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

Eat! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

author’s cuisine – p. 37 bakeries – p. 38 chinese – p. 39 comfort food – p. 39 desserts – p. 39 fine dining – p. 40 food halls – p. 40 french – p. 41 georgian – p. 41 greek – p. 41 indian – p. 41 italian – p. 42 japanese – p. 42 korean – p. 42 latin & spanish – p. 43 mexican – p. 43 middle eastern – p. 43 polish – p. 44 steak houses – p. 46 thai – p. 46 vegan – p. 46

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul.

Mokotowska 48

BEZ TYTUŁU

Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. ul. Poznańska 16

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots,

brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

LOFT

Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. ul. Złota 11

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Eat! listings Covid-19 Update

Be aware that these listings reference the good old days of gastronomy when we could actually sit down to eat. They do not take into account the restaurant shutdown that was in operation at press time; note, this has not stopped a growing number of restaurants either operating covertly or overtly. The majority of those not taking part in the rebellion are still offering pick-up and delivery services. As it stands, the government has hinted the food and drink sector could reopen at some point in March.

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA FORTY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good, however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths. ul. Racławicka 99

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around

Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18

POCHLEBNIE

Affirming Powiśle’s status as a baking powerhouse is Pochlebnie, a small-scale bakery that requires advance orders. The fuss is well warranted, especially when it comes to more non-standard offers such as sourdough croissants, rhubarb buns and various other bits and pieces that go beyond the ordinary in both name and taste. ul. Solec 81B

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling –

Eat! listings exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

KURA

Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. ul. Nowolipki 15

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz. ul. Andersa 21ele

PASTRAMI BISTRO

This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul. Polna 18/20

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else. ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

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Eat! listings fine dining BELVEDERE ŁAZIENKI KRÓLEWSKIE

Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1

EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóst-

ka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

food halls ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Flashing with neon amid the industrial ephemera, the food hall is a multi-ethnic extravaganza and complimented by the presence of more bona fide sit-down restaurants such as Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 (the creation of Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki). Though hamstrung by Covid, the summer did much to show the eventual potential of this game-changing social hub – already excellent, expect it to get even better once life becomes more… normal. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the food offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well – of course, the fact that they’ve continued to serve booze during the lockdown has also helped matters. Pl. Mirowska 2

HALA KOSZYKI

Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it

Eat! listings against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. ul. Koszykowa 63

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

greek & turkish Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List”

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one

naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

georgian RUSIKO

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

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Eat! listings BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

italian ALTRO LOCALE

Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

misses a step. ul. Willowa 9

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54

SHOKU

At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2

korean THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

Eat! listings

PLUS: OUR COVER SNAPPER SPEAKS – p. 14

classic polish

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Beer we go! From Warsaw’s first craft brewery to the best of its tap rooms, we take a dip into the world of craft beer – p. 46

PLUS: THE HAUNTED HISTORY OF OTWOCK – p. 72

mexican

latin & spanish

NOVEMBER 2020

OCTOBER 2020

FEATURES: The loving touch: get to the bottom of Warsaw’s love for artisanal goods - from dusty old stores to the new wave of cool – p.16

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capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as DELICJA POLSKA well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally Looking (pink ul. bows, gilt touches living upstately to its name. Piękna 54 and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. LE CEDRE 84 But then so was everything we tried, including To see the else diversity of this cuisine, the exquisite seasoned roast beef. ul. order the balbaak (six cold starters) or Krakowskie Przedmieście 64aside, the byblos (six hot). And food it’s the atmosphere that carries them LOKALNA that extra yard:BISTRONOMIA the whole philosophy The menu summons the spirit of Old of this cuisine is to share and share Praga with appearances heritage alike, making it a uniquelyfrom engaging dishes suchwhen as sour-rye Silesian experience diningsoup, with friends. dumplings, potato84 pie and chopped Al. Solidarności liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that MAGHREB involves localhome MaryenszMaghrebbeer is a from placethe to call –a tadt brewery. Nieporęcka 6 bijou warm, familiarul.restaurant whose

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ence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried including the salmon tiraditos. Served chicken) is all crunch and crackle and with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, side of sweet; accompanying them, an dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4 assortment of biteyEmail: dishesinsider@warsawinsider.pl heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, good things will happen, and this they WUWU braised pork belly scooped up by hand do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow Concrete finishes, illuminated inside glistening perilla leaves:tubes it’s a food movement, of light, blockgratifies walls and dish thatglass soothes, andgraphic leaves GRINGO BARthe daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes thehigh real illustrations lend a slick smartness diners looking every bit as pleased to as A Mexican wave is upon us,toand tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4 frozen this pipe-smoking narrow, bluishtiger space. with the thatBusy gazes from time too. After years of suffering start-up the wall. entrepreneurs ul. Olesińska 2and off-duty ingredients, timid flavors and daft business bods, they’re here to enjoy Mariachi music to persuade us it’s the food that connects vodka with all authentic, a raft of new cut-price the forgotten classics of inter-war eateries are showing the rest how Warsaw. With items like duck tongues it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist on the menu, and a shared address DAWNE SMAKI bumping lads in back-to-front caps with the Vodka Museum, these BEST WAWA 2020 and baggy t-shirts, the “Winner” food at Gringo CEVICHE BAR are ambitions thatGimenez are realized. Pl. The atmospheric interiors hark to are is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There With chef Martin Castro Koneserahis 1 (Centrum Praskie bygone years, sunnier times detractors whowhile claiminthis is a Polonized injecting passion and personality Koneser) the backofgarden promises version this cuisine, but an theoasis-like informal into the venue, this is an address that experience: if you’re Warsaw, Gringo remains one new of thetomarket punches through the greyness of it’s actually hanging ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ leaders. ul. worth Odolańska 15 around a everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the few months just to see it. Specializing A sanctuary elegant fancy, it’sofa the default orderof with the Atun one in traditional cuisine, the deer steak placesellers: of long,chunks dark shadows and a rich best of tuna given LA SIRENA is recommended by all who try it. ul. discreet touches: zing withdecorative the addition of chili,From lime and You don’t even have to think twice when Nowy 49the best Mexican in the the outset, you’re made to feel that roasted coriander. The Japanese influasked Świat to name

NOVEMBER 2020

KOREATOWN REST

FEATURES: Forgetting the coronavirus for just one moment, we bring you the restaurants and bars that have this year proved to be… The Best of Warsaw! – p. 6

PLUS: THE PANDEMIC ALL-STARS! – p. 30

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BEST of WA R S AW

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2020

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Eat! listings interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine

dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of

canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

Eat! listings the pizza box AVE PIZZA

Arguments about Warsaw’s best pizza aren’t complete without someone suggesting Ave. Using a 72-hour process to make their dough, the authenticity of this Neopolitan-inspired pizzeria isn’t to be questioned. ul. Topiel 12

CIAO A TUTTI

Looking like an old school pizzeria should (gingham tablecloths, tiled interiors, strings of garlic), Ciao a Tutti eschew aesthetic niceties to simply produce glorious pizzas that have you reminiscing about your weekend in Naples. Al. Niepodległości 217

CIAO NAPOLI

Old Town gets a bad rap when it comes to food, but buried amid the garbage is the occasional diamond: Ciao Napoli, for example. Specializing in Neapolitan pizza, the highlight is the Gorgonzola e Pera, a decadent affair featuring pear, walnuts, crudo ham and gorgonzola. ul. Długa 6

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. You won’t get to see their spectacular interior during the lockdown, but you can still at least enjoy knock-out pizza delivered to your door. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

Such is the quality of Focaccia that most express their surprise at the

lack of Italian roaming the kitchen. Sophisticated mains are available, but the pizzas are well worth a look as well. ul. Senatorska 13/15

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint whose key selling point is an entirely vegan menu. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

MĄKA I WODA

Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, for many this is the best pizza in Poland, no questions asked. DIY pasta also available. ul. Chmielna 13A

NONNA PIZZERIA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Even before we switched en-masse to home-delivered, box-friendly foods, 2020 was shaping up to be the Year of the Pizza. And you saw just why with the entry of places like Nonna to the market. Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas captivated the public way before we locked ourselves down, and have continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity. ul. Oboźna 11

OTTO POMPIERI

If you judge pizzerias on choice

then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 24 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything else out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. Pl. Bankowy 1

PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE

Present on Uber Eats and Wolt, Przyjemność break all conventions to bring you wacky ‘Californian’ pizzas with names like Ninja Turtle and Gringo Chicken. Despite the millennial commitment to breaking form and tradition, it’s by far our fave pizza of 2020! ul. Marszałkowska 68/70

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, on the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are the order of the day – compliment them by ordering up some of their pre-mixed cocktails. ul. Koszykowa 1

TRATTORIA RUCOLA

It might be a chain, but that point is easy to forget once the pizza arrives. Offering a vast selection, the standards rarely drop below top notch. Various locations

TUTTI SANTI

With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. ul. Królewska 18

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real

knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box wgoing. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illus-

trative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is over-priced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

NO PROBLEM

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is the first vegan joint to try and actually pull it off. ul. Bracka 20

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

Eat! listings stores & markets AMERICAN CANDY SHOP

Calorie counters: leave now. As the name says, the onus is on American items, but there’s still copious room for Brit, German, Canadian, Japanese and Australian brands as well – and it’s not just sweets and chocolate, but also crisps, fizzy drinks, lollies and other perfect stocking fillers. And yep, Xmas products like Hershey’s Sant Hat Kisses are already in-store. ul. Puławska 67/43

BARON THE FAMILY

Long-term readers will be accustomed to seeing us utilize these pages to extol the greatness of chef Aleksander Baron. Well, he’s only done it again. Click to this maverick chef’s online store for a comprehensive range of top notch produce ranging from his creative kimchis, meats (recommended: gingerbread sausage), Polish-bred caviars, regional ciders and assorted jarred goodies and pickled bits and pieces. The sets and baskets are a perfect catch-all solution for holidays. baronthefamily.pl

BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here in this legendary farmers’ market. ul. Wołoska 3

DOBRE Z LASU

Seeking to promote organic, natural and healthy foods sourced from the forests of Poland, Dobre Z Lasu’s extensive offer covers eccentric syrups, dried and marinated mushrooms, juices made from such ingredients as wild garlic, quince or rosehip, acorn cookies and hard-to-find herbs. Above all, come for game: for example, wild boar burgers, haunches of deer and venison stews. It’s ideal for winter. ul. Grójecka 127

FORTECA KREGLICCY

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on. ul. Zakroczymska 12

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here. Pl. Mirowski 1

INDIAN HOUSE CENTRUM

Think you can do better than Warsaw’s curry houses? Stacked to bursting with vegetables, herbs and spices, this is where to stock up on everything from fresh green chilies to banana leaves, pickles, chutneys, lentils, beans, ghee and oils. ul. Ogrodowa 1A

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Mięsny’s dual role as a butcher-deli has made them an invaluable stop for those that demand nothing but the best. Beyond a spectacular choice of Polish-raised meats, look out also for pantry must-haves such as Kashubian butter, Baltic herring, homemade ketchup and traditional mountain sheep cheese. Oh, and you might want to know that the pastrami is out of this world. ul. Walecznych 64

RUMUŃSKIE SMAK

Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages. ul. Puławska 98

THE BRITISH SHOP

Improving with each year, the offer includes bacon, sausages and scotch eggs from Waitrose, a smattering of Pieminister products, stacks of M&S items (cottage pie!), and a slew of British temptations such as Scampi Fries. And if you can’t find it already, then they offer a Bring For Me service. ul. Emilii Plater 8

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Drink!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

DEJA BREW With pre-covid Warsaw enjoying one of the most dynamic coffee scenes in Europe, there’s a good chance we weren’t alone in, lately, overlooking some of the golden oldies that set the ball rolling. Which is why, through a mix of guilt and nostalgia, we’ve found ourselves recently returning to where it all began. Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. What’s changed? Well, a lot and a little: gone, at least for now, is the opportunity to soak in

the clattery, boho atmosphere of this neighborhood gem. But remember, lockdown is temporary, class is permanent. Though the chance to enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring might now be suspended, it’s still worth the trip for a takeout coffee that’s up with the best. Considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when the lunacy ends. Filtry Dobra Kawa ul. Niemcewicza 3, fb.com/filtry.dobrakawa

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Brewery Spotlight

Located just outside Warsaw, Artezan have become one of the leading benchmarks of Poland’s craft beer scene. We catch up with founders Jacek Materski and Darek Doroszkiewicz to learn more about the brand…

As a brewery, do you have any regrets? No, no regrets – ever! What’s the logo about! Actually, we wanted a cat but the graphic designer didn’t have any cat-related ideas so we ended up going for a hedgehog! The best thing about 2021 is… Yet to come! As a brewery, is there any style of beer you try and avoid? Upper Franconian Märzen.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

PHOTOGRAPH ARTEZAN FACEBOOK

Five Minutes With… Browar Artezan

Supporting You, Supporting Me. In our opinion it was a great beer that deserved a better reception. How does the Artezan team celebrate the launch of a new beer? We dance around the brewery and scream. Only kidding! To be honest we don’t really celebrate right now – of course, before covid that was different and you’ve had found us down the pubs serving our beer. Any guilty secrets? You’ll sometimes find us drinking the Baltic porters made by the big, non-craft breweries!

What your favorite beer destination? We loved London a lot, and in particular visiting the so-called Beer Mile. The atmosphere (and beer) was fabulous! From the entire world of beer, is there one brewery outside of Poland that you would love to emulate? Cycle Brewing – their stouts are amazing! Are beers in danger of becoming too experimental and weird? No way! Speaking for ourselves,

we never get tired of experiments. Pacific is pretty much one of Poland’s all time classic craft beers! Do you consider this your ‘breakthrough’ beer? Yes, we definitely see it as a ‘breakthrough’. At that time, eight-years ago, each new beer was special and exciting, but we never thought it would become a classic of the craft scene – we’re really proud of that. Is there a beer you’ve created that you feel hasn’t had the success it deserved?

From the world of celebrity, who would you love to drink a pint of Artezan! Marc Márquez! He’s the absolute best motorcycle grand prix racer – Darek’s a big fan of Moto GP, so he’d love to meet and chat with him about racing (and maybe even learn something from him!). Tell me something that people don’t know about Artezan… Jacek lived in Italy for nearly six-years – maybe that’s why missed and fell in love with the Polish Grodziskie style! Browar Artezan browarartezan.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Drink! listings Covid-19 Update

These listings do not take into account the seismic changes currently effecting the drinks sector. Instead, we’ve taken an optimistic (ha!) longer-term view in the hope that those we feature will survive the challenges of the present. As things stand, the government has hinted that the sector may reopen at some point in March. Do note that several bars have chosen to flout restrictions to operate either openly or in secret.

dive bars 2KOŁA

Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PRASKA

For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint. Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. ul. Brzeska 23

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the

shadows and watch the world spin around. ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

after work classics CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and four or so years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. That they’ve reopened under lockdown is no hush hush secret, though it’s general sense of space means you never feel you’re attending a super spreader event. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out

Drink! listings into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

To feel what life was like before Covid, head thee to Gwardii where, each weekend, a party atmosphere reigns inside former Tsarist hall. There’s nowhere to sit, but that doesn’t stop huge crowds (yikes!) gathering each Friday and Saturday evening to mill around till the late hours. Pl. Mirowska 2

STIXX

A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. Pl. Europejski 4A

WOZOWNIA

Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a

place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Before Covid strong-armed itself into our lives you’d have found Foton firmly implanted as one of our favorite late nights. Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul. Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

live entertainment CENTRUM ZARZĄDZANIA ŚWIATEM

Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next. ul. Okrzei 26

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Drink! listings HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

KLUB POGŁOS

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

PARDON TO TU

After a cpl of years of flirting with temporary accommodation, PTT finally returned in full last year, positioning themselves inside a corner of the PWC office building just south of Zbawiciela. But despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the

leftfield spirit of old thanks to flexi hours (pre-Covid), a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city! Al. Armii Ludowej 14

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc. ul. Bagatela 10

Drink! listings specialty coffee ASFALT

The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio. ul. Tamka 37

COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

COPHI II

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink

and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in. ul. Lwowska 2A

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade. ul. Jagiellońska 30 & Elsterska 10

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s lineup of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

STOR

Bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33

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Drink! listings cocktails CUBA LIBRE RUM & CIGAR HOUSE

Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. ul. Poznańska 37

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

PODWALE BAR & BOOKS

Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read T R C about in Dickens, position yourself P T M in front of the upstairs fireplace for a C W ≈ celebratory cigar and a glass of someW C ≈ thing tall and lovely: the cocktails are C C ≈ in a class of their own and specifically T ≈ customized for the season. Spooling, P E ≈ L Bond S silent films, regular burlesque P Band Brandom decorative monkey shows figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 HE MOST

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WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building

| MARCH 2021 Warsaw V O Insider L isit

OcatiOns

in new YOrk and Prague

that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

craft beer CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs.

Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

wine bars CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

For those wineing out, Czarne Czerwone Złote features over 80 Deutsche weines from 13 producers – carefully selected after the owners’ travels through Germany, the carefully curated choice has been matched to a cool, modern design and a menu offering cheeseboards, olives and an extraordinary tarte flambee. ul. Koszykowa 49A

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

NOWINA

The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE MACIEK JAZWIECKI

Hubert Czerepok’s “Tree of Life” won POLIN Museum’s competition for a work of art that would capture the message of the Legacy gallery, which celebrates the creative achievements of Polish Jews.

CALLING CULTURE VULTURES

The reactivation of Warsaw’s museums and galleries has not been short of attention grabbing highlights – we bring you five of the best…

POLIN Housed inside what everyone recognizes to be an architectural marvel, this staggering museum leaves no stone unturned in its coverage of Poland’s 1,000-year Jewish history. Formerly Europe’s Museum of the Year (2016), highlights include a remake of a typical pre-war Jewish street and a stunning recreation of the ceiling of the Gwoździec Synagogue. Not ones to rest on their laurels, additions have also been made, and these include the opening of the new Legacy Gallery. Exploring the achievements of individuals such as David Ben-Gurion, Arthur Rubinstein and Rosa Luxemburg, visitors are left in no doubt as to the impact Poland’s Jews have had on global civilization. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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Above: cutting his teeth in Bristol as a subversive street artist, Banksy has since crossed into global mega-stardom. Below: the Museum on the Vistula presents the bold, striking vision of Henryk Streng.

Poland’s first ever large-scale exhibition devoted to the works of Banksy has done nothing if not lived up to the hype. Featuring approximately 100 paintings and installations, around 18 have been registered as authentic originals; the remainder are identical replicas of some of his most famous works, for instance, Kissing Coppers, No Future and Flower Thrower. Broaching a diverse range of topics that touch on celebrity culture, globalization, world conflict, inequality, refugees and the police state, this high impact exhibition is witty and provocative in equal measure. Book tickets in advance (if there’s any left!). Pl. Konesera 8 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), koneser.eu MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has hosted dozens of enthralling exhibitions since being reassembled in Warsaw. Right now, that means a deep dive into the world of Jewish-Polish Modernism. Presenting the works of Henryk Streng (later known as Marek Włodarski in the post-war era), expect an introduction to his original interpretation of the modernist style, as well as his rather unorthodox take on Socialist Realism. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW In the past, this institution was famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, with extra points earned for its super cool,

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DANIEL CHROBAK, COURTESY OF LABORATORIUM, BARTOSZ BAJERSKI, ANNA ZAGRODZKA

LABORATORIUM

retro-themed Gallery of Polish Design – and that’s before you even start thinking about their immense catalogue of domestic art. Recent headlines, however, have been reserved for their newly opened Gallery of Ancient Art. Promising one of Europe’s most impressive selection of ancient artefacts, its 1,800 exhibits will leave you gobsmacked. Al. Jerozolimskie 6, mnw.pl ZACHĘTA Arguably the best-known contemporary gallery in Poland, the reopening of the Zachęta has been lapped up by the Warsaw public – and rightly so. Coinciding with their relaunch, feast your eyes on a bonanza of four exhibitions. First up, Sculpture In Search of a Place presents works by luminaries such as Paweł Althamer, Tadeusz Kantor and Magdalena Abakanowicz to tackle subjects related to the identity of Polish sculpture. Next, Living Storages explores the phenomena of self-portraits, while Rhizopolis introduces us to the hypothetical future of humanity after its wipeout courtesy of ‘the anticipated great catastrophe’. Seen as ‘a set design for a futuristic film’, you’ll already be familiar with the artist behind it – that’s Joanna Rajkowska, the brains behind the palm tree found standing in the center of the city. Finally, make time for House Work by Maciej Salamon. “When the pandemic came along, I suddenly remembered for the first time in years that I actually like painting,” explains the artist. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta. art.pl

Above: the Gallery of Ancient Art looks set to attain international recognition for the depth of its offer. Below: challenging and evocative, the Zachęta has simultaneously unleashed four memorable exhibitions.

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MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

NEON MUSEUM

museums CAR MUSEUM

Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

THE HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTER

This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE

Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an

archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

KATYŃ MUSEUM

This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

LEGIA WARSZAWA MUSEUM

Marketed as Poland’s biggest football club, this museum seeks to confirm this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son – 80’s

super star Kazimierz Deyna. ul. Łazienkowska 3

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

MUSEUM OF PRAGA

The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

PALMIRY MEMORIAL MUSEUM

An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry. mhw.pl

PAWIAK

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

TRAIN MUSEUM

Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real

anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

Presenting the definitive story of the 1944 insurgency that nearly cost this city its existence, points of interest in the city’s most important museum include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced, and a 3D CGI flight over the smoldering ruins of Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

experiences COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

FOTOPLASTIKON

Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives

from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

PINBALL STATION

An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A,

galleries & exhibition spaces CARICATURE MUSEUM

Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ

The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

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preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

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Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 64

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrows-

18.12.2018 12:32

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, the Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl

green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong

focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

TRILINGUAL PRE-SCHOOL AND NURSERY “THREE LANGUAGES” CENTER

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and

A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden.ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org

or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the

Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US,

France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

warsawinsider.pl

implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

shopping

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

accessories

EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of self-care and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

fashion

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

malls & department stores ARKADIA

MANDEL

Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every

Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

DESIGNER OUTLET WARSZAWA

Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by

Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,

galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

KONESER

Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship

office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Don’t Miss A Beat!

Online

For the latest trends and stories from Warsaw join us at warsawinsider.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

warsawinsider.pl

ST. PATRICK’S DAY!

As we face another sober St. Paddy’s, we take a look back at happier times…

hough still viewed as a haphazard jumble of odds and ends, there’s no masking modern Warsaw’s cosmopolitan gait and global ambitions. But it wasn’t always this way. Winding the clock back a notch, you’d have found a smeared, ragged city whose dark, pot-holed streets seemed to swallow you whole – the good old days! And yes, they actually were. You see, as chaotic and corrupt as the capital was at the turn of the millennium, it offered roaring, wild times under its bruised, battered shell – life, so it seemed, was a real-time adventure in which anything could happen. And usually it would, often inside one of the city’s smattering of Irish-owned pubs. Pickings were slim when it came to going out, and more often than not we’d gather inside foggy dens

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2021

of depravity like the inimitable Morgan’s. Set behind stout walls and barred windows, it was in every sense a fortress of expats and exiles. Held in line by the legendary Morgan clan, it became a melting pot of chancers and charlatans, diplomats and CEOs – social barriers did not exist, we were in it together and together meant drunk. Reaching the bar involved a treacherous campaign over swampy floors and through a thick fog of smoke, but what it lacked in finesse it made up for in heart – this was home, and a welcome one at that. There were others, as well – set in a grotty Mokotów pavilion, crossing the threshold of the Cork Irish Pub and visitors would be magically transported to a different world: clad in stained glass and black and white pictures of Dublin prostitutes, it vied with Morgan’s as the best Guinness in town. The void left by the closure of this pair was filled by the creation of Bradley’s and Bar Below, and whilst the latter looked strikingly like a darkened airport lounge, for five years it became a hotbed of hedonism and extraordinary characters – gathering round the bar, you’d do so in the expectation of being royally entertained. Kidnappings by cannibals, combat with the Taliban, and escapes from secret Bond-style islands off the coast of Gdańsk: the regulars, or so they’d have you believe, had experienced it all and lived to tell the tale. A golden era of the Irish-owned pub, it was venues like these that made Warsaw special – and don’t we half miss those reckless times.

ED WIGHT

LOOKING BACK