Warsaw Insider April 2021 #296

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#296

APRIL 2021 FEATURES: Jewish Warsaw: the past and present – p.10 PLUS: Pseudonyms of Warsaw – p.18

The Sock King of Poland! – p. 55 In style: vegan fashion – p. 58 Photography: Aleksander Głowacki – p. 22

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Contents April 2021

Reviews: EAT!

First bite: Wozownia – p. 31

Review: Prosciutteria – p. 32

CALL IT A MOMENT OF CLARITY, but it’s come to my notice that for a year my monthly opening monologue has become a babble about covid. Well, no more. Not because “we’ve won” or anything like that, but because I just don’t have the heart to keep writing about it. Enough! Besides, if we think we’ve got it bad, then it’s maybe time to consider what bad actually means. Bad isn’t being stuck at home with a pizza and Netflix, bad is being starved in your city and having your family wiped out – and Warsaw has seen plenty of that. This month, to coincide with the anniversary of the outbreak of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, we take a deeper look at the city’s Jewish heritage. On a lighter note, join us also for a chat with the Sock King of Poland, a sit-down with one of the country’s top drone photographers and a chinwag with the producers of the world’s first cactus shoe (!). And that’s before we bring you our roundup of weird Warsaw nicknames and a Lego interpretation of classic Polish film. Enjoy it, and see you next month…

DRINK!

First sip: Sweet & Blossom – p. 47 Brewery spotlight: Browar Jabeerwocky – p. 48

Discover

Put a spring in your Step – p. 55

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In the News... TRANSPORT

Going Underground

Despite the financial squeeze, City Hall have given the go ahead for work to begin on a third metro line that will, ultimately, connect Gocław in the city’s Praga district to Dworzec Zachodnia on the capital’s western side. Set to be used by 315,000 passengers per day, phase one of the M3 line is slated for a 2028 completion date. Currently regarded as something of a forgotten suburb, officials hope that the work will reabsorb Gocław back into the fabric of the city and reenergize it in much the same way that Ursynów was after the completion of the first metro.

CHARITY

Hammer Time!

Described as the greatest female hammer thrower of all time, Anita Włodarczyk now has one more claim to fame after being turned into a Shero Barbie doll. An amalgam of the words ‘she’ and ‘hero’, the dolls have been produced by Mattel since 2015 and seek to inspire young girls by introducing them to inspirational female figures of all race and background. Włodarczyk, the reigning world record holder, finds herself in impressive company: previous Shero dolls include figures of Frida Kahlo and Amelia Earhart.

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Nice To Be Nice

A 95-year-old grandmother scammed out of her life savings was left stunned after a public collection organized by a caring policewoman yielded just under zł. 170,000. Identified only as Pani Weronika, the woman fell foul of thieves who conned their way into her Warsaw apartment before making off with jewelry and zł. 10,000. Hoping to recoup some of this figure, Paulina Ziobro of the Economic Crime Department organized a fundraiser that quickly went viral after it was publicized by popular radio presenter Filip Chajzer. Intended to last a month, such was the success of the collection that it was halted within a few days after exceeding all wildest expectations.

PRESS MATERIAL (2)

SPORT

In brief REAL ESTATE

Cheerio Literacka

One of Warsaw’s great white elephants is set to vanish from the landscape once and for all after it was revealed it would be demolished and turned into apartments. Looking like something out of Bladerunner, the concrete folly at Literacka 7 was built in 1999 to serve as HQ for Europol Gaz. Before it was completed, however, work on a planned pipeline running from Siberia to Western Europe was abandoned, and the half-completed HQ was left to rot as a derelict shell. Empty ever since, it’ll now be flattened after the plot was purchased by housing firm Dom Development.

CULTURE

Factory Settings

As work on the mixed use Norblin Factory project enters its final stages, it’s been announced that space has been saved for a state-of-the-art museum dedicated to the complex’s former role as a sheet metal and tableware factory. Blended into Norblin’s commercial function, the exhibition will include 50 hydraulic presses dating from the start of the 20th century, a panoramic terrace and several items once produced here – among them, designs patented by art deco heroine Julia Keilowa.

CITY

A daredevil climber known only as MoKOTowski entered the history books after becoming the first person to scale the Varso Tower unaided. MoKOTowski later confessed to the press that he had been preparing to climb the 320-meter skyscraper for over a year. “I knew I needed to go up there the moment I heard it would be the tallest building in the EU – I’d just been waiting for it to reach the appropriate height.” Posting his exploits to YouTube, the video has now been viewed over 140,000 times.

SOCIAL

More Than A Name

Citing the fact that over 90% of school patrons are male, BNP Paribas have launched an action aimed at redressing the balance and highlighting some of history’s greatest females. “Youth in Poland, especially girls, still lack inspiring female authorities,” say the firm. “Of all the characters that students meet during their education, women constitute only a small percentage.” As part of their initiative, BNP Paribas hope to encourage staff, parents and students alike to choose a suitable female patron before pushing it through via the adoption of an official resolution. For more on the campaign, see: bnpparibas.pl/patronki

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP, KEVIN DEMARIA, YOUTUBE, PRESS MATERIAL (2)

Don’t Look Up!

INFRONT > STREET ART

The Equalizer

New mural seeks to promote gender equality…

raga’s reputation as the beating heart of the city’s artistic soul took another step forward following the unveiling of the area’s latest piece of outdoor art. Painted as part of Converse’s international City Forests project, the project was authored by graphic artist Beata ‘Barrakuz’ Śliwińska, one of a handpicked crop of global creatives selected by the brand to unleash a wave of socially conscious art across the planet. Found on ul. Zamoyskiego, Śliwińska’s mural taps into the spirit of now by broaching the subject of gender equality. Titled “Raise Boys & Girls The

Same Way”, the stunning XL artwork was painted to remind viewers to treat everyone the same. “I want a world where girls can feel empowered and in which boys aren’t afraid to cry,” says Śliwińska. “We need to stop evaluating ourselves through the prism of gender… we will all always be different, but simultaneously let us all treat each other equally.” Executed by Good Looking Studio, the mural was made using smog-cancelling, pollutant free paints, and will ultimately be one of several across the city promoting a harmonious, non-discriminatory message.

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INFRONT > CITY

Bridge The Gap

Long talked about, a pedestrian bridge spanning the Wisła has finally received the green light…

Having acquired all formal building permits, the concept will measure seven meters at its narrowest point, and 16-meters at its widest and will, reputedly, be one of the longest such crossing in the world. Targeted at pedestrians and cyclists, the bridge will also feature benches, viewing points and assorted rest areas. “The investment fits perfectly with the vision of Warsaw in which I believe,” said the Mayor. “ So far the city has proved an ideal place to work in, but thanks to changes that are already in the process of being implemented, it will also become an ideal place in which to live.” PRESS MATERIALS, OPPOSITE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ears of “will they, won’t they” speculation appear to be over after Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski formally announced a timeframe for a stunning new footbridge spanning the river. Set to take two to three years, the 500-meter structure will cost the city approximately PLN 180 million and will run from ul. Karowa on the left bank to ul. Okrzei on the right. Inspired by the shape of a lightning bolt, the project was designed by German firm SchuesslerPlan and was picked out in a competitive process that was first decided in 2017.

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

IN FRONT > OLD TOWN

Past Saviors!

Credited as the driving force behind the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town, a monument honoring Jan Zachwatowicz was officially unveiled in March by Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski.

t a time when plans had been mooted to turn the capital’s historic center into an anonymous housing estate, Professor Zachwatowicz stood firm in his dedication to rebuilding the Old Town from scratch. Planted a stone’s throw from the Royal Castle, the bronze statue was authored by Karol Badyna and depicts Zachwatowicz strolling to work. Unveiled on what would have been his 121st birthday, the

accompanying plaque bears the simple message: “1900-1983 Jan Zachwatowicz, the architect of Warsaw’s reconstruction”. Speaking at the ceremony, Renata Kaznowska, the city’s deputy president, heaped praise on the architect: “From the very beginning he insisted that the Old Town should be a faithful reconstruction and not a completely modern area,” she said. “This was by no means an obvious standpoint to take.” Blown to smithereens as

a result of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, some campaigners wanted to see the ruins left as they were as a testament to the brutality of the war. Others, meanwhile, saw it as the ideal place to build a mighty Socialist Realist housing estate in much the same vein as the MDM complex. Charged with leading the Capital Reconstruction Office, Zachwatowicz refused to waver and it was under his direction that Warsaw’s Old Town rose once again.

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INFRONT > ART

Miś

Block Party!

trictly speaking, there’s nothing unusual about seeing the internet go wild for Lego depictions of famous movie scenes; this time, though, Poland has got in on the act thanks to a two-person collective going under the name of Fabryka Hura. Created by friends Baśka and Monika, Fabryka Hura was first born in Nowa Huta six years back when the duo decided “to tell stories from the neighborhood” using Lego as their medium. Over time, more projects followed, culminating in their recent homage to classic films and serials from the PRL period: Miś, Akademia Pana Kleksa, Alternatywy 4 and so on. “We collect because we enjoy it, and we photograph because we enjoy it

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

as well,” the pair tell the Insider. Stunning in their specifics, Fabryka Hura’s Lego freeze frames are a work of painstaking craftsmanship with the duo often refusing to publish a scene if a particular detail is lacking, a point that makes their efforts all the more convincing. “We believe that, literally, there isn’t a story in the world that can’t be told with Lego,” they conclude. “Moreover, we know that by doing what makes us happy, we’re also making other people happy as well.”

For more on Fabryka Hura, see: fabrykahura.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF FABRYKA HURA

Iconic Polish film scenes as you’ve never seen before…

Co mi zrobisz, jak mnie złapiesz?

Miś

Nie ma róży bez ognia

Sami Swoi

alternatywy 4

Alternatywy 4

Brunet wieczorową porą

Kogel-mogel

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JEWISH HISTORY > REMEMBRANCE

ETCHED IN MEMORY

A striking example of ‘hero art’, we take a look at the back story behind the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes…

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

revised draft to the city’s Jewish Committee. Although they’d already turned down one design from another artist (claiming it resembled “two Hassidic Jews hoeing potatoes”), they approved Rapaport’s pitch and issued an immediate green light. Subsequently rubber stamped by the city’s arts council, Rapaport was given just one instruction: that it should be completed and ready in time for the fifth anniversary of the outbreak of the rising – April 19th, 1948. Depicting the leader of the revolt – Mordecai Anielewicz – flanked by defiant insurgents, the monument’s centerpiece was cast in bronze and created by Rapaport in Paris. Framing it, mean-

while, were giant slabs of stone intended to evoke comparisons to both the Ghetto walls and Jerusalem’s Wailing Wall. Ironically, these slabs of Swedish granite had initially been reserved by Hitler’s favorite sculptor, Arno Breker, for a military monument in Berlin. Although Rapaport had wanted the area around the monument cleared of rubble, when that proved impractical the debris was simply shoveled and encased within the monument itself. As such, the monument became something of an accidental reliquary. Unveiled on schedule in 1948, whilst its artistic merit has often been called into question, the memorial’s relevance has not.

SHUTTERSTOCK (3)

ecognized globally, no visit to Warsaw is complete without first paying your respects at the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Forming an integral part of diplomatic itineraries for decades, it was here that the West German Chancellor, Willy Brandt, famously fell to his knees in 1970, a spontaneous act that many saw as critical in paving the path for German-Jewish reconciliation. Authored by Natan Rapaport, the project was conceived whilst the war was ongoing. Rapaport, a Warsaw Jew that had escaped the Holocaust by seeking refuge in the Soviet Union, was working as a sculptor in Novosibirsk when news first broke of the Ghetto Uprising, and he quickly set to work sketching out ideas to commemorate its legend. His first design was rejected after being presented to the Arts Committee in Moscow; according to them, it was “too narrow in conception, too nationalistic.” Undeterred, when he was repatriated to Poland in 1946 he presented a

The Ghetto Uprising April 19th marks the 78th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, an audacious rebellion undertaken in the face of insurmountable odds. Sealed in November, 1941, inside the largest Ghetto in the Reich, Warsaw’s Jews found themselves in a desperate battle for life. But worse was to befall the starving population when, in 1942, deportations began to the gas chambers of Treblinka. When rumors reached them that a final action to empty the Ghetto would begin in April, 1943, those that had hitherto survived rose in rebellion. Out-numbered and under-equipped, the ragbag collection of insurgents took the Wehrmacht by surprise and frustrated their efforts to liquidate the area by employing classic street fighting tactics. Often moving through sewers and basements, they offered dogged resistance under the leadership of Mordechai Anielewicz. Directing operations from his bunker on Miła 18, German units finally discovered the fortified HQ on May 8th. Surrounded, its defenders chose suicide over surrender. At last, the German commander, Jurgen Stroop, was able to report to his superiors that he had crushed the rebellion. To signal the successful conclusion of his operation, the Great Synagogue on Pl. Bankowy was ceremoniously demolished. Jewish Warsaw had ceased to exist.

Remembrance When uprising veteran Marek Edelman first began leaving daffodils around key Ghetto sites, little did he realize his actions would be later immortalized by POLIN. Since 2013, the museum has distributed tens of thousands to mark the battle’s outbreak. This year the institution has adapted to the pandemic by instead going online and creating print-friendly daffodils for people to download at home as well as commemorative Facebook frames. For info, see: polin.pl

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JEWISH HISTORY > INTERVIEW > JOANNA FIKUS

Past, Present, Future

WI: Being Jewish, what was it like growing up in Poland? JF: Actually, I didn’t even know I was Jewish till I was about eleven. I remember sitting with my mother in the kitchen, and even though we were alone, she closed the door: “I need to tell you something,” she said. She asked me if I loved her, if I loved my grandfather, then revealed I was Jewish. “Is that it,” I remember thinking at the time. It was treated like some big secret. So it wasn’t some seismic moment? It was only a few years later that I saw it as being important. As a teenager, I remember reading a book about the lack of Jews in Warsaw and later going through the same streets that the author had referenced. It was only then that I realized something was missing in the city and I was hit with a deep, profound feeling of loss. How has the country changed in its attitudes to its Jewish past?

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

I was a teenager in the 80s and attended a very reputable high school – but they never taught us about Jewish history. Auschwitz, we were told, was where Poles had perished. Yes, that’s technically true, but it’s not the whole picture. I found I had to educate myself about Jewish heritage, something that became easier after the political transformation in 1989 – all of a sudden, there was a big explosion of literature and information: for the first time, I realized there were things like surviving Jewish cemeteries in Warsaw, traces of the Ghetto, etc. It’s also when I first saw instances of anti-Semitism. It was shocking to find people hating a community that was no longer even present. It’s better now? I don’t think there’s this fear that Jews are going to return and seize their property back that once existed in the smaller towns or places such as Kraków and Łódź, but it’s still painful to realize that, among some circles, to really insult someone it’s enough to call them a Jew. Unfortunately, I think the internet allows a level of

PORTRAIT BY MACIEKJAZWIECKI , BACKGROUND SHUTTERSTOCK

Joanna Fikus, head of exhibitions at POLIN, discusses Jewish identity and POLIN’s role in bridging cultures…

anonymity that encourages such thinking. One issue is that people simply don’t have Jewish friends or neighbors (that they know of). Once they do, though, it’s amazing how interested people can be – my friends, for instance, will ask me if they can come along to the synagogue, etc. Polish people need a guide.

of history just like that. But at the same time, it’s really interesting to see how Polish Jews are seeking out their identity. Some are choosing to explore religion, others simply want to enjoy being part of a community and meet for weekend brunches. The identity of contemporary Polish Jews is very liquid, and I love that.

On the other hand, is it not amazing to see so many young, non-Jewish volunteers taking part in actions like POLIN’s daffodil campaign, or seeking to learn about their former neighbors? The daffodil campaign has become a phenomenon and it’s just amazing how many people have been receptive to it. But I think equally encouraging has been the number of events that seek to teach about Jewish life, rather than just the Holocaust. In POLIN’s case, we’re proud of the Tisch culinary festival: we’ve found people absolutely love it. Beyond the more difficult subjects, there’s many neutral topics that have been really popular with Poles.

How has POLIN coped with the pandemic? For every institution the challenge has been in finding a way to transmit their activities online. In our case, we’ve actually found some things have actually worked better in that respect. For instance, we found that author meetings that would have been attended by two or three hundred were getting three thousand viewers online. We’re an international institution, so in many ways we’ve been able to really focus on reaching out to our wider audience whether it be via radio broadcasts, online video walks, or simply playing past concerts.

How has POLIN helped effect change? We’re the first place where I think people can really see that Jews have been an embedded part of Polish history. We cover a lot of historical chapters that Poles will already be familiar with, yet it’s only here they see that many of the protagonists in these events were actually Jewish. We’re still waiting for a Museum of Polish History, so we’ve got quite a few people that view us as being just that, only coming from a different perspective. Also, I think that we’ve been successful in arousing curiosity. Many visitors are here simply because they wanted to see what lies inside this beautiful building; once they’re inside, then they learn that the history of Polish Jews goes far further than just the history of the Holocaust. There’s been much talk of a Jewish ‘renewal’ in Poland… We can’t compare the present to what came before and you can’t revive hundreds of years

Even before the pandemic, one of POLIN’s big successes lay in being able to communicate with young people… It’s absolutely vital to us that we keep this group engaged. It’s not a sexy word, but we really want to ‘educate’ them, and not just by giving them reels of information to digest but by giving them an experience that they can remember. We want to offer a transformative journey. Poland became dramatically mono-ethnic after the war, so we’re here to show it’s ok to be different. We’re about more than just history and I think that by offering things like Jewish concerts, workshops and culinary festivals we can really enrich peoples lives. What’s been your proudest moment at POLIN? Opening the core exhibition in 2014. To see such huge crowds was amazing, especially seeing that we’d been working on it for 20 years. All of a sudden, all our theoretical work in the office or alongside designers became something physical and meaningful to others. For more info, see: polin.pl

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Traces of the past

Inexorably associated with Warsaw’s Jewish past, we take a look at the fate of Pl. Gryzbowski and Próżna…

l. Grzybowski was once the melting pot of Warsaw, a place where Jewish life thrived alongside Russian and Polish. One of the busiest squares in the city, it was vividly described by Isaac Bashevis Singer in The Family Moskat: “The carriage turned into Plac Gryzbowski and abruptly everything changed. The sidewalks were crowded with gaberdined Jews wearing small cloth caps and bewigged women with shawls over their heads. Even the smells were different now.”

NAC

THEN & NOW

JEWISH HISTORY > PL. GRZYBOWSKI/PRÓŻNA

“The Próżna of old was, like Pl. Grzybowski at its head, also an energetic hive of Jewish life”

Continuing to describe a “bedlam of sound and activity”, Singer painted a colorful picture of warm chaos – of lantern-lit stalls and shrieking street peddlers and of unruly children streaming out from Hebrew schools. “… A dwarf with an over-sized head wandered about with a bundle of leather whips, fanning the straps back and forth, demonstrating how to whip stubborn children.” The Próżna of old was, like Pl. Grzybowski at its head, also an energetic hive of Jewish life. Lined with tenements, the ground floor units were almost exclusively reserved for merchants and tradesmen dealing ironware, sewing machine belts, portrait frames and suchlike. But though the street itself rang with coarse, working class banter, the apartments upstairs were enviable addresses.

This was certainly true of No. 7 and 9, both of which were designed by Franciszek Brauman, an architect that was regarded as something of a darling of Warsaw’s monied bourgeoisie (of his better-known designs, he also authored the famous Wedel building on Szpitalna). At No. 9, Zalman and Rywka Nożyk (founders of the nearby synagogue on Twarda, the only one to survive the war) could be found residing; Próżna 14, on the other hand, was the domain of Mayer Wolanowski, the owner of a screw factory. When the Warsaw Ghetto came into being, Próżna was slashed in two by the Ghetto wall, and later saw heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Using the basement of No. 14 as an HQ and field kitchen, it was from this street that the 9th squadron of the Home Army’s Kiliński battalion launched their operation to seize the nearby PASTa Tower.

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JEWISH HISTORY > PL. GRZYBOWSKI/PRÓŻNA

Images of the present

Handed a new lease of life, Grzybowski and Próżna have stepped into the future whilst paying attention to their past…

t’s quieter, yes, but Grzybowski retains a rich sense of texture thanks in part to its haphazard development: Tsarist era tenements, the mighty All Saints Church and communist carbuncles mix together to provide an exciting visual jumble. The 21st century has also left a mark, most notably by way of the introduction of Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan luxury residential skyscraper – slip into

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

the courtyard to view an elevated, ethereal, seesaw-style installation by Israeli artist Eran Shakine. Back on ground level, and equally successful has been the regeneration of the square itself. Once a littered, weed-filled patch, today it’s a gleaming plaza of granite and greenery, and its cute wooden bridges have become a favorite of Instagrammers and, even, the occasional advert shoot. Mind you, not all the changes have been positive, and the disappearance of the bunker-like building that once housed Europe’s last surviving Yiddish theater has left a gaping void – quite literally. Ultimately, though, you get the idea of an area that treasures its past, and that much is evidenced by the annual occurrence of the Singer Jewish Festival. In non-covid

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

times, it’s Pl. Grzybowski that served as its natural focal point. Impressive as it all is, it pales somewhat when compared to Próżna. Even just a decade ago, Próżna was the image of crumbling dereliction – empty windows, cracked pavements and falling masonry were its hallmarks. Now, it’s a poster child for change. Heavily revamped, the cobbled street is now lined with offices and bistros hiding behind carefully renovated facades, whilst round the corner – on the back of Próżna 12 – find a huge mural dedicated to the area’s Jewish heritage designed by one of Poland’s most celebrated contemporary artists, Tytus Brzozowski.

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CITY > NICKNAMES

Hong Kong Phooey! The Wola Bliska Tower sets an unwelcome standard…

All In The Name

You’ve all heard how Warsaw was once called the Paris of the East, but what you might not know are the jillions of other nicknames and monikers the locals have for their landmarks and areas… 18

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

BEIJING Designed in 1963, but completed only in 1974, the Przyczółek Grochowski estate was the work of Oskar and Zofia Hansen, a pair of architects known for their open form. Inspired by the plight of Oskar’s sick mother, who at the time was virtually stranded in her high-rise due to the erratic workings of the lifts, the Hansens designed a low-lying, inter-locking set of buildings: 1.5km long, and broken in 22 places. Soon, though, noise and crime concerns led to both windows and galleries being sealed and barred, destroying the original aesthetic and social vision. Home to 7,000 people, it wasn’t long before Hanson’s bold blueprint was dubbed Beijing – an overcrowded settlement beset with troubles.

THE ELEPHANT IN LACE UNDERWEAR Sure, you could call the Palace of Culture & Science by its true name, but doing so would overlook the plethora of nicknames it’s been handed over the decades that have gone: the vertical barracks, Stalin’s wedding cake, the syringe, the Soviet Trojan horse, the eighth sister (a nod to the seven similar towers found in Moscow) and so forth. And that’s before you get to informal English nicknames such as Ghostbusters Tower. But our favorite? Possibly nothing better describes its ill thought proportions and crass style than “The Elephant in Lacy Undies”.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE FRYING PAN You wouldn’t have recognized Pl. Defilad in the 1990s; featuring a maze of market stalls selling junk and a grotesquely vulgar amusement park called Cricoland (star attraction: a woman that would swim with a shark), little remains of the old days. One aspect, mind, survives: created in 1998 as a temporary thoroughfare serving those pouring in and out of the newly completed Metro Centrum, the sunken square that sits in the crook of Jerozolimskie and Marszałkowska hasn’t developed one bit. Nicknamed ‘the frying pan’ (‘patelnia’), this busy

pedestrian hub teems with life attracting all from charity collectors and political agitators to shoelace sellers and buskers.

HONG KONG For the latest entrant to our dictionary of Warsaw lexicon, look no further than the Bliska Wola Tower – just looking at it is enough to stop you in your tracks. The work of JW Construction (a.k.a. JW Destruction on account of their aesthetic style), its devastating ugliness makes it an almost surefire candidate for the title of Poland’s most catastrophic housing project. Set to house 10,000 people, many inside apartments no larger than 18 sq/m, the twin 19-storey towers have already become a hit with urban photographers looking to capture Warsaw’s grimmer side – the name Hong Kong feels more than apt.

LEMMINGRAD There is perhaps no housing development that better symbolizes Poland’s emerging prosperity than Miasteczko Wilanów. Unveiled shortly after the country’s entry into the EU, detractors were quick to christen the project Lemmingrad – a dig, says sociologist Mikołaj Lewicki, at “the conformist middle classes” who made it their home. “Allegedly following the latest fads and fashions set by international corporations, these lemmings mindlessly stampede into the abyss.” Residents don’t seem to care: clean, crime-free, affluent and international, they’re more than happy with their home.

THE LEMON SQUEEZER Rising above Miasteczko Wilanów, you don’t need a particularly high level of intelligence to understand why locals have nicknamed the Temple of Divine Providence ‘the lemon squeezer’ (Wyciskarka do Cytryn). Also sometimes dubbed ‘Poland’s first spaceship’, such is the horrifying impact of this humongous religious landmark that it was awarded the title of Poland’s worst building back in 2016.

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CITY > NICKNAMES

Gladiators, are you ready! The Wola Colosseum glowers over Wola like a lost Roman treasure.

Home to one of Europe’s highest concentrations of Vietnamese, much of this migration took place during the Cold War era with many choosing to settle in the Żelazna Brama tower blocks. Seen as an ambitious attempt to mold the socialist man through his environment, the walloping, concrete estate – an ugly collection of 19, tomb-like highrise structures – soon earned the name of Little Vietnam.

MORDOR “Mordor usually denotes the inaccessible, hostile land in Tolkien’s fictional universe,” writes lecturer Maciej Smętkowski, “but in Warsaw, however, the term has become imbued with another meaning: it defines a suburban office district and a nightmare for over 100,000 commuters.” Set around

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Domaniewska in Służewiec, the nickname is by no means incidental: defined by its anonymous glass office blocks and grinding traffic jams, the area’s workers’ half-jokingly refer to themselves as orcs in reference to their unceasing, soul-crushing work. More recently, efforts have been undertaken to humanize Mordor and the name has been almost affectionately adopted by smaller local businesses.

THE WOLA COLOSSEUM Composed of two derelict rotundas, and widely known as ‘Wola’s Colosseum’, the twin giant gas tanks that stand just beyond Zachodnia station surely merit a feature in any rundown of Warsaw’s Seven Wonders. A spooky flashback to the Industrial Revolution, the unofficial moniker makes even more sense when you break and enter – with shafts

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

LITTLE VIETNAM

The traders that never left – the last relics of Europe’s largest bazaar.

of light streaming through the windows, the effect isn’t unlike happening upon some ancient marvel: serene, surreal and slightly unsettling.

ZBAWIX For a fleeting moment in time, Pl. Zbawiciela was known across Poland as Pl. Hipstera, a name that became so widely used that it even appeared on Google Maps. The cradle of modern cool, it was to here that, five-to-ten years back, a new breed of citizen flocked to cavort in cafes and bars overlooking the legendary rainbow installation (since dismantled due to its habit of attracting baying mobs armed with matches). Attracting those with beards, skateboards and, even, typewriters, it became the hub of the city’s hipster operations – even the New York Times wrote about it. The backlash was inevitable, and today the area is better known by its more conservative pseudonym, Zbawix.-

Gone But Not Forgotten

THE RUSSIAN MARKET No long-timer will ever forget “the Russian Market”. So-called because of the swarms of eastern traders it would attract, Europe’s largest outdoor bazaar could once be found in and around Stadion Dziesięciolecia (today rebuilt as the shiny National Stadium). Officially called Jarmark Europa, you would have visited to pick up Bulgarian pirate videos, Soviet military hardware, counterfeit clothing, Grot cigarettes and electrical appliance that went BOOM in the night. A legendary cauldron of black market activity, so sleazy was it that you’d even have had the chance to peer inside a peep show within an inventively repurposed battered, old bus.

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COVER STAR > ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

& AW A Y ! 22

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

This month, the Insider zooms in on the work of one of Poland’s best-known drone photographers: Aleksander Głowacki, a.k.a. Alex Snaps Colours… warsawinsider.pl

WI: So many of us dream of owning a drone – what’s the most important thing we need to know when considering getting one? AG: Above all, you need to know what you can and can’t do in the first place. Knowing the relevant regulations will allow you to understand how to operate the drone safely and have lots of fun while doing so.

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Among other things, you train people to fly drones – what mistakes do you commonly see beginners make? People tend to ignore basic preparations, like not letting the drone save its Return To Home position – that’s when things go wrong and, quite often, they’ll lose the drone as a result.

lic generally won’t know about drones? The airspace above your home does not belong to you. Drones are aircraft and as such they operate under aviation regulations. How did you get involved with drones – when, why, how! Well, as a photographer I reached a point when I wanted to take Tell us something that the pub- shots from a different perspective.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

COVER STAR > ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

I began by taking photos from the viewing platform in the Palace of Culture; then, my wife (a pilot) took me on a flight during which I was able to lean out of the airplane and take pictures. It would have been impossible to go flying every day to feed my growing hunger for aerial images, so getting a drone was a logical progression. What’s the most important

lesson you’ve learned as a photographer? Always double check your gear and plan your shots – sometimes you don’t get a second chance. As the name Alex Snaps Colours suggests, your photos are vibrant, exciting and fresh. How do you want people to perceive your photography? I want to give people something

that is positive. Sometimes, after a hard day, you just need to be reminded of how beautiful and vivid this world can actually be; if my work can do that, then I consider it to be mission accomplished! What makes a good photo? It makes you feel something. Whatever that might be – sadness, anger or serenity (the latter is what I aim for).

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COVER STAR > ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

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COVER STAR > ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

Your bird’s eye perspective allows you to see cities from a totally different angle. As such, has anything in Warsaw ever surprised you? I continue to be amazed how fast the city is growing and changing – it’s a living organism and each and every flight I make feels different from the last. What are your favorite conditions in which to shoot? Spring and autumn definitely yield the most beautiful shots; I tend to stay put if its raining or the wind is raging outside. Has the pandemic affected your work? When everything first stopped I used that time to learn more about videography and I’ve found that becoming something of a passion. Picking up video was always going to happen, but for sure the pandemic accelerated that process.

If you could go anywhere in the world right now to shoot photos, where would you choose? Honestly? Anywhere. It’s been the longest travel break I’ve ever had in my life; going anywhere, whether it’s abroad or not, would make me happy. Your job sounds brilliant and it’s safe to assume you love it to bits – given that, tell me something you don’t enjoy! As with all jobs, the big thing to

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEKSANDER GŁOWACKI

You shoot many towns and cities – is there anything that makes Warsaw special? It’s incredibly diverse in terms of architecture. It suits my aesthetics so that I can just search for new shots without an end.

watch out for is when work becomes routine. I’m doing all I can to avoid falling into that trap. Tell me about your editing process… When it comes to software, then 95% of my work revolves around Adobe Lightroom with a little bit

of Photoshop as well. As for any rituals, then black coffee and some background music always help boost the creative juices!

I’m flying, I’m 100% focused on the task in hand and let myself float away on the beauty of aerial views.

Finally, what’s your state of mind when flying a drone? I consider flying a drone to be almost a form of meditation. When

For more on Aleksander’s work, see: instagram.com/alex.snaps. colours

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STILL OPEN! Visit us at Hala Gwardii for positive vibes and the best market food and international street tastes!

Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl

Eat!

First Bite

Wozownia Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

RAISING THE BAR Founded by the same people that once ran the original ‘ruin’ bar at Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia has proved a sensation since opening three years or so back. Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, the Lynch-esque vibe made it a fave with sceney dudes carrying manbags, off-duty DJs and glam, glitzy girls cavorting with Prosecco. And then Covid came along. Undeterred, Wozownia have struck back

by raising the bar and upping their food offer. Recruiting talented chef Flavia Borawska (formerly of Opasły Tom), discover a super cool menu of upmarket comfort food: daily specials aside, turn to Wozownia for posh fish & chips, arancini with sriracha or grilled camembert with juniper honey. Dealing also in vibrant smoothies, natural wines and carbonated herbal infusions, it’s a further indicator of the staggering distances that Warsaw has come when it comes to the take-away / home delivery game.

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Eat! Review

When Prosciutteria first opened, ooh, three years or so ago, it was hailed a sensation and proof as to the far-reaching ambitions of Warsaw’s burgeoning gastro scene. Based around cold cuts and served on heavy wooden boards, here was a convincing Italian menu to be enjoyed in a snug, warm interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork and black and white images of Italian stars. You felt like you were on holiday. But just because restaurants have flatlined, that doesn’t mean Prosciutteria have. Reinventing themselves as a delicatessen (though still keeping their bistro / takeaway service alive), head

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

here to fill your basket with carefully sourced ingredients that each have a back story: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; salami from Milan and Naples; five-year-old Veneto cheese washed in beer; Sicilian tomatoes that exude sunny climes; or fruity mustards and pickled veg. Breathe deep and close your eyes: for a fleeting moment you’ll be touched by heaven.

Prosciutteria ul. Solec 85, fb.com/ProsciutteriaPowisle

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE ITALIAN STALLION

Eat! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

author’s cuisine – p. 31 bakeries – p. 32 chinese – p. 32 comfort food – p. 32 desserts – p. 33 fine dining – p. 33 food halls – p. 34 french – p. 34 georgian – p. 34 greek – p. 34 indian – p. 35 italian – p. 36 japanese – p. 36 korean – p. 36 latin & spanish – p. 37 mexican – p. 38 middle eastern – p. 38 polish (modern) – p. 38 polish (classic) – p. 39 steak houses – p. 40 thai – p. 40 russian & ukrainian – p. 40

vegan – p. 42

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul.

Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a

wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

LOFT

Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. ul. Złota 11

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA FORTY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good,

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Eat! Listings however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths. ul. Racławicka 99

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul.

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Krasińskiego 18

POCHLEBNIE

Affirming Powiśle’s status as a baking powerhouse is Pochlebnie, a smallscale bakery that requires advance orders. The fuss is well warranted, especially when it comes to more non-standard offers such as sourdough croissants, rhubarb buns and various other bits and pieces that go beyond the ordinary in both name and taste. ul. Solec 81B

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for

its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

KURA

Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. ul. Nowolipki 15

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz. ul. Andersa 21ele

PASTRAMI BISTRO

This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers,

Eat! Listings Covid-19 Update

Be aware that these listings reference the good old days of gastronomy when we could actually sit down to eat. They do not take into account the restaurant shutdown that was in operation at press time; note, this has not stopped a growing number of restaurants either operating covertly or overtly. The majority of those not taking part in the rebellion are still offering pick-up and delivery services. As it stands, the government has hinted the food and drink sector could reopen at some point in April.

hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul. Polna 18/20

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design,

the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else. ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free

desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their

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Eat! listings bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

food halls ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Flashing with neon amid the industrial

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

ephemera, the food hall is a multi-ethnic extravaganza and complimented by the presence of more bona fide sit-down restaurants such as Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 (the creation of Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki). Though hamstrung by Covid, the summer did much to show the eventual potential of this game-changing social hub – already excellent, expect it to get even better once life becomes more… normal. ul. Dobra 42

of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

HALA GWARDII

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the food offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well – of course, the fact that they’ve continued to serve booze during the lockdown has also helped matters. Pl. Mirowska 2

HALA KOSZYKI

Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. ul. Koszykowa 63

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types

georgian RUSIKO

greek & turkish Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List”

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his

Eat! listings heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7

SOFRA

A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. ul. Wilcza 71

BOMBAJ MASALA

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to

sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

INDIA GATE

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

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Eat! listings in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Al. Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl

italian DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

POSYPANE

A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. ul. Hoża 43/49

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54

SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS

It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. ul. Moliera 4/6

SATO GOTUJE

Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24

SHOKU

At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick

it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

YATTA

Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Bartoszewicza 3

korean THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too

Eat! listings seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the

default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

KOREANKA

A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul. Koszykowa 59

KOREATOWN REST

Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. ul. Olesińska 2

SORA

Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

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Eat! listings TAPAS GASTROBAR

The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. ul. Grzybowska 63

mexican DOS TACOS

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul. Jasna 22

EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27

GRINGO BAR

A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

leaders. ul. Odolańska 15

LA SIRENA

You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best. Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of tacos and burritos stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the addons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

LE CEDRE 84

BEZ GWIAZDEK

middle eastern LE CEDRE

To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzó-

Eat! listings pek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI

The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. ul. Wierzbowa 9/11

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE FARM

Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. ul. Chocimska 7

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4

STARY DOM

polish (classic)

seafood

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

L’ARC

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

RESTAURACJA POLSKA “RÓŻANA”

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background,

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. ul. Puławska 16

LOKAL NA RYBĘ

Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64

MOKOTOWSKA 69

Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. On our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. ul. Mokotowska 69

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

Eat! listings the pizza box AVE PIZZA

Arguments about Warsaw’s best pizza aren’t complete without someone suggesting Ave. Using a 72-hour process to make their dough, the authenticity of this Neopolitan-inspired pizzeria isn’t to be questioned. ul. Topiel 12

CIAO A TUTTI

Looking like an old school pizzeria should (gingham tablecloths, tiled interiors, strings of garlic), Ciao a Tutti eschew aesthetic niceties to simply produce glorious pizzas that have you reminiscing about your weekend in Naples. Al. Niepodległości 217

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. You won’t get to see their spectacular interior during the lockdown, but you can still at least enjoy knock-out pizza delivered to your door. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

Such is the quality of Focaccia that most express their surprise at the lack of Italian roaming the kitchen. Sophisticated mains are available, but the pizzas are well worth a look as well. ul. Senatorska 13/15

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an

upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint whose key selling point is an entirely vegan menu. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

MĄKA I WODA

Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, for many this is the best pizza in Poland, no questions asked. DIY pasta also available. ul. Chmielna 13A

NONNA PIZZERIA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Even before we switched en-masse to home-delivered, box-friendly foods, 2020 was shaping up to be the Year of the Pizza. And you saw just why with the entry of places like Nonna to the market. Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas captivated the public way before we locked ourselves down, and have continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity. ul. Oboźna 11

OTTO POMPIERI

If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 24 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything else out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. Pl. Bankowy 1

PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE

Present on Uber Eats and Wolt, Przyjemność break all conventions to bring you wacky ‘Californian’ pizzas with names like Ninja Turtle and Gringo Chicken. Despite the millennial commitment to breaking form and tradition, it’s by far our fave pizza of 2020! ul. Marszałkowska 68/70

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, on the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are the order of the day – compliment them by ordering up some of their pre-mixed cocktails. ul. Koszykowa 1

TRATTORIA RUCOLA

It might be a chain, but that point is easy to forget once the pizza arrives. Offering a vast selection, the standards rarely drop below top notch. Various locations

TUTTI SANTI

With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. ul. Królewska 18

VA BENE

Founded by Ula and Emanuele, this snug corner eatery has shot up Warsaw’s pizza rankings since opening last year. The informal, neighborly atmosphere is bettered only by the generous slices of pizza served from behind the counter. ul. Tamka 9

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Eat! listings vegan

the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent. ul. Poznańska 16

tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

NO PROBLEM

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE

VEG DELI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO

Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul. Krucza 23/31

MOMENCIK

Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is the first vegan joint to try and actually pull it off. ul. Bracka 20

It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food-wise: expect seriously inventive, high quality pizzas with far out names like Clockwork Orange and Pizzaghetti. ul. Marszałkowska 68/70

SABICH

A fun, sociable space, touchdown in this eatery to feast your way through a menu involving seitan shawarma boxes, Yemeni soup loaded with lentils and veg, ready-to-go shakshouka boxes, and Israeli-style sabich sandwiches rammed with avocado, eggplant, potatoes and mango mayo – all squished inside a pita or baguette. Whoever invented that combo, come forth to receive your medal. Al. Wyzwolenia 13

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that absolutely always hit the spot. Set on leafy Radna street, the summer terrace is a joy. ul. Radna 14

UKI GREEN

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. ul. Hoża 62

Eat! listings stores & markets BARON THE FAMILY

Long-term readers will be accustomed to seeing us utilize these pages to extol the greatness of chef Aleksander Baron. Well, he’s only done it again. Click to this maverick chef’s online store for a comprehensive range of top notch produce ranging from his creative kimchis, meats (recommended: gingerbread sausage), Polish-bred caviars, regional ciders and assorted jarred goodies and pickled bits and pieces. baronthefamily.pl

BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. ul. Wołoska 3

DOBRE Z LASU

Seeking to promote organic, natural and healthy foods sourced from the forests of Poland, Dobre Z Lasu’s extensive offer covers eccentric syrups, dried and marinated mushrooms, juices made from such ingredients as wild garlic, quince or rosehip, acorn cookies and hard-tofind herbs. Above all, come for game: for example, wild boar burgers, haunches of deer and venison stews. It’s ideal for winter. ul. Grójecka 127

FORTECA KREGLICCY

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan

Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on. ul. Zakroczymska 12

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here. Pl. Mirowski 1

INDIAN HOUSE CENTRUM

Think you can do better than Warsaw’s curry houses? Stacked to bursting with vegetables, herbs and spices, this is where to stock up on everything from fresh green chilies to banana leaves, pickles, chutneys, lentils, beans, ghee and oils. ul. Ogrodowa 1A

KOKO & ROY DELI

High quality, elevated comfort food including ready prepared meals by British chef Gareth Rowntree: best-sellers include oven bakes such as lasagna and English-style cottage pie; handmade corn tortillas; meatballs in marinara; and a whole

heap of condiments such as their legendary bacon bourbon jam. kokoandroydeli.com

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Mięsny’s dual role as a butcher-deli has made them an invaluable stop for those that demand nothing but the best. Beyond a spectacular choice of Polish-raised meats, look out also for pantry must-haves such as Kashubian butter, Baltic herring, homemade ketchup and traditional mountain sheep cheese. Oh, and you might want to know that the pastrami is out of this world. ul. Walecznych 64

RUMUŃSKIE SMAK

Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages. ul. Puławska 98

THE FARM

ul. Mokotowska 8 This upmarket restaurant-deli hybrid does nothing if not treat its produce with reverence. Fulfilling an almost ambassadorial role for Poland’s northern lake district, discover a range of Mazurian and Warmian cheeses, honey, jams, as well as organic lemonades, Polish fermentations, freshly-baked bread and more unexpected international elements such as Icelandic licorice sea salt. It’s the meat that grabs the headlines though, and here gourmet Polish cuts compete against certified Kagoshima and Wagyu beef.

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Drink!

First Sip

Sweet & Blossom ul. Poznańska 3

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

KEEP IT SWEET A magical little nook, find Sweet & Blossom squirreled away just below street level on fashionable Poznańska. A homage to the pretty things in life, find a swarm of bouquets, dried flowers and plant pots, somewhere beneath which rest a rich array of traditional-style homemade cakes, pies, flans

and pastries. Committed to using locally picked fruit, free range eggs, natural honey and flour from an artisan mill in the Beskids, there’s nothing here that’s not touched with love. And in keeping with the times, consider it not a problem if your postcode ain’t central – they’ll deliver to your door.

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Brewery Spotlight

Five Minutes With…

Browar Jabeerwocky WI: So… Jabeerwocky, what’s in the name? RK: You’ll know it as the famous nonsense poem by Lewis Carroll. Anyway, I figured that if someone could write such a strange, fantastical poem, then I could sell strange, fantastical beers. Later, I realized that jabbering is also aided greatly by beers! At the end of the day though, I liked that

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Jabeerwocky was a catchy brand name no matter what language you speak. What aspect of your job do you love the most? Except drinking? I guess it would be that’s I’m actually creating and producing something that you can touch, taste and feel. It’s a real product. I’m an old man (!!),

and I don’t feel comfortable with virtual products and make-believe services – brewing offers the reverse of those. There’s a magic to it: it’s about transforming basic raw materials into something great. What would you be doing if you didn’t have the brewery? Oh, I’m not sure. I’ve got loads

PHOTOGRAPH BROWAR JABEERWOCKY FACEBOOK

Join us for a virtual pint with Rafał Kowalczyk, the brains behind the Jabeerwocky bar(s) and brewery…

Life is all about trust and belief, and the same goes with investments

of hobbies and interests, so I think something relating to them: fishing, diving, RV travel. I’m certain, mind you, that I’d end up on the production side: making fishing rods or suspension systems for camper vans. That’s a guess though as in reality I’m doing what I truly love – running a brewery and a few bars.

are safe. Life is all about trust and belief, and the same goes with investments. Would you invest in a business you didn’t have faith in? So yeah, from a professional point of view I’m hopeful for the future and think that sooner or later we’ll go back to normal.

How have you kept sane during the last year? Crazy, isn’t it? I’ve put my heart into renovating the pub as well as setting up a beautiful brand new brewery outside Warsaw. I’ve also started a franchise pub in Łódź that’s waiting to launch. My feelings are ambivalent. I’m excited about the future but sad about what’s happening all around.

When producing beer, what’s the biggest consideration you take into account? We’re a small-scale brewery and we’re confident that we’ll sell what we produce. Keeping the quality as it should be is the biggest challenge, and we’ve found that the bottling process is the most sensitive part of production – that’s when things can go wrong and spoil the beer, so we really focus on that.

What’s the biggest lesson have you learned from all this… At first I was frustrated by all the delays we experienced – suppliers, authorities, etc. I came to realize, no matter how hard you push, sometimes you just need to go with the flow and take it easy – otherwise, you’ll end up having a heart attack.

What’s in your fridge! From my own brewery I’m drinking Autochton (a New Zealand Pilsner) and Drunkula (an American IPA). I’ve also got a lot of Baltic Porters from various Polish breweries, but those aren’t stored in a fridge! And every now and again I’ll also revert to my first home brews – a Bock that’s 13-years-old but still delicious!

How are you keeping positive? I’m the kind of guy that looks on the bright side of life. My family is fine and, so far, my businesses

What’s your flagship beer? I guess our German Pils (Bohater) is our bestseller and that’s followed by Drunkula. If there’s a

hidden gem then I’d definitely say that’s Autochton which is a great pint with a lovely hoppy aroma. It’s brighter and crispier than your typical German-style pilsner, and in my opinion deserves greater appreciation from our customers. Is there a style you would never touch? Politicians used to say ‘never say never’, but I’m not a politician and neither will I ever be! I don’t like pastry beer at all and can’t say I’m a fan of having lactose in beer. I prefer to stay away from that kind of beer. Any mainstream beers you’ll confess to enjoying? Sure! I like Pilsner Urquell from a can as well as a dry Guinness stout. I’m not ashamed of that, I like them. If the Insider were dishing out free tickets to celebrate the end of the pandemic, where would we send you? Italy, I reckon. It’s warmer and it’s a fantastic country for beer. What makes a memorable pub… The beer is obviously important, but the most important thing is always the atmosphere and the people you’re with. With that in mind, I can remember visiting some great pubs in England and Wales with a couple of friends, one the very vision of the true English gent. The conversation was wonderful as we sailed our way through excellent cask ales, draft bitters and stouts. For more on Browar Jabeerwocky, see: jabeerwocky.com

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Drink! listings Covid-19 Update

These listings do not take into account the seismic changes currently effecting the drinks sector. Instead, we’ve taken an optimistic (ha!) longer-term view in the hope that those we feature will survive the challenges of the present. As things stand, the government has hinted that the sector may reopen at some point in April. Do note that several bars have chosen to flout restrictions to operate either openly or in secret.

after work classics

a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. ul. Dobra 42

CENTRAL BAR

LEGENDS

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

DZIEŃ I NOC

Looking insta friendly with its interior of brickwork, succulents and marble-topped tables, Dzień I Noc have earned a cult following since opening. Offering authors cocktails and mainstream beers, it offers the promise of a solid night out in these paranoid times. Pl. Mirowski 1

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25

WOZOWNIA

Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

BACK ROOM

Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. ul. Koszykowa 49A

CEVICHE BAR

Though primarily celebrated for their

Drink! listings Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. ul. Twarda 4

CHARLIE

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul. Mokotowska 39

CUBA LIBRE RUM & CIGAR HOUSE

Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. ul. Poznańska 37

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9l

KONESER BAR 3/4

Perched on the top of the Polish Vodka Museum this bar offers more than just stonking views of the Praga district from their sunny terrace: of note are beautiful vodka-based cocktails prepared in an atmospheric interior molded from carefully restored raw materials. Pl. Konesera 1

cocktails and an A-list crowd await. Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego

T PODWALE BAR & BOOKS R C HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

LA SIRENA

IVILIZED

P T M Occupying the kind of charismatic C W gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, ≈ W C position≈ yourself in front of the upstairs C C ≈ for a celebratory cigar and a fireplace T ≈ glass of Esomething tall and lovely: the P ≈ cocktails L S are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the P B B season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 EETTM

IGARS &

Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. ul. Piękna 54

INE &

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

Tel.: +48 225.599.199

REGINABAR

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that V O L i n Y a P mixes elements of New York’s Little www.barandbooks.pl Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1 isit

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MR. OH

A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

LONG BAR

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THE ROOTS

Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). ul. Wierzbowa 11

WELES

Named after the Slavic god of the

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Drink! listings underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. ul. Nowogrodzka 11

craft beer CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls,

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. For those averse to the sun, find outdoor seating extending well beyond and into the echoing, shaded courtyard of this immense, impressive building. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer

seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty

Drink! listings have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

dive bars ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the

hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

specialty coffee

BAR STUDIO

ASFALT

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Before Covid strong-armed itself into our lives you’d have found Foton firmly implanted as one of our favorite late nights. Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul. Wilcza 9A

The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio. ul. Tamka 37

COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

COPHI II

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space

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Drink! listings lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in. ul. Lwowska 2A

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Though the chance to enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring might now be suspended, it’s still worth the trip for a takeout coffee that’s up with the best. Considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when the lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. Elsterska 10

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian.

A cracking edition to the capital’s lineup of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul. Tamka 33

U KRAWCA

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3

wine bars CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

For those wineing out, Czarne Czerwone Złote features over 80 Deutsche weines from 13 producers – carefully selected after the owners’ travels through Germany, the carefully curated choice has been matched to a cool, modern design and a menu offering cheeseboards, olives and an extraordinary tarte flambee. ul. Koszykowa 49A

NOWINA

The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

PUT A SPRING IN YOUR STEP

With spring now in bloom, the Insider puts its best foot forward to step into the best shoe stores in town...

ON THE RUN

Sklep Biegacza ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45 & ul. Hanki Czaki 4, sklepbiegacza.pl With winter behind us (we think), there’s no better time to ditch the Homer Simpson lifestyle and knock off the pounds by going for a run. If you do so, then first kit yourself out in the most famous running store around. Operating in both Żoliborz and Powiśle, it’s to here you should head to find a vast range of clothing, nutrients and accessories that supplement a training shoe offer that includes names such as Adidas, Asics, Mizuno, New Balance, Salomon and Under Armour in their portfolio.

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FOR GENTLEMEN

Kielman ul. Chmielna 6, kielman.pl

Gentlemen of Warsaw, your attention please. Operating since 1883, Kielman specialize in bespoke shoes that follow a distinctly British style. Using natural leather sourced from the world’s best tanneries, it’s a place aimed at those that demand nothing but the best. Using machinery only when absolutely necessary, Kielman’s shoes are a paean to craftsmanship.

FOR LADIES

A pioneering brand offering both readyto-wear and customized, handmade female footwear that mixes traditional know-how with the latest trends and technologies. Recognized by Twój Styl magazine as among the best in the business, it’s the founders belief that “every woman should be able to express her true self through a pair of shoes.”

FOR KIDS

Emel ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, emel.com.pl

Style isn’t just for adults. At Emel, trick your kids out with the latest footwear fashions as presented in both their online store and bricks-andmortar operation down in Powiśle. Carefully selected leather, artisan expertise and lifetime warranty are just a couple of their strengths. “Every child is unique,” they say, “which is why we are as well.”

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE FACEBOOK (3), OPPOSITE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

L37 ul. Mokotowska 52A, l37.eu

WHAT A PAIR

The creator of the Takapara brand and the Skarpetoholik chain, we talk to Łukasz Milanowski, the sock king of Poland!

WI: Why are socks important… LM: Socks aren’t the first thing you want to think of in the morning… but they’re an important element that can change everything – uncomfortable, bad quality socks can destroy your day – and prove unpleasant for your entourage! Wearing great socks doesn’t just make you feel better, but it can spice up your look, especially if your dress code is quite sober. They can highlight your originality and personality.

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And Skarpetoholik? Takapara grew quickly thanks to e-commerce, trade shows and design markets, but I was unhappy with the distribution network. Potential partners were choosing to showcase cheaper socks over quality ones. Yes, Takapara were more expensive, but that’s because the 200 needle technology I use ensure durability and outstanding quality. Anyhow, I realized that opening my own store would be a step towards building my own distribution network. At first I thought about opening just a Takapara store but then realized that it would be

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

way cooler to have a multi-brand store selling premium socks from around the world. I’ve now got stores in Łódź, Warsaw and Poznań and despite the pandemic I’ve got plans for more! Where do you get your inspirations from when designing socks? Inspiration is everywhere – on the street, in your head, etc. The secret is to keep an eye on your surroundings and have talented friends around you. What is the Takapara look? At first I was producing only geometrical patterns but since then I’ve got a few lines: Takapara Classic which offers colorful interpretations of the classic geometric form, Takapara Fun which is all about funny mismatched socks with a stunning, fresh design, Takapara DS which concerns itself with a more distinguished style and Takapara Art which showcases art-inspired designs and original, energetic collaborations. The quality is the signature that unites them all. What’s your best-selling Takapara design? It’s the TYLNA 99m1 model which is one of our PRIDE models. I never expected rainbow socks to

PRESS MATERIAL

When did you realize there’s money to be made from socks? Before I created my own company I was working as logistic director in one of the biggest automotive companies on the market. When I turned 35 I just had a feeling it was the last moment I could change my life and begin an adventure. I always dreamed of working for myself, but just didn’t know in what capacity. That changed in 2015 when I was talking with a friend; the idea of a sock business popped into my head like a cartoon lightbulb! The next day I quit my job and Takapara was born a year later.

I never expected rainbow socks to be popular here, but people feel good with these colors. It’s nice to have a rainbow in your life

be popular here, but people feel good with these colors. It’s nice to have a rainbow in your life. What socks should EVERY person keep in their wardrobe and why? The answer is good quality socks. It’s not my role to tell you what to wear: if you like colors? Cool! If you prefer neat black socks? Please do. The important thing is to feel good in your socks regardless of their design. Are there any sock crimes that must be punished! The slogan of Takapara is: “Be yourself, be different” so all “socks crimes” are welcome! Nowadays trends are much more multi-faced and, in my opinion, that’s good for diversity and creativity. It’s true that some combinations are subject to debate, but even the world of high fashion is guilty. Personally I don’t like to wear socks and sandals but if you like it, that’s fine with me! Are there any socks you hate seeing people wear? There’s some combinations I find a little, ahem, ‘difficult’: sport shoes with black socks, for in-

stance. I wouldn’t use the word hate though. Do you have a personal sock strategy! I’m of the belief that people should have lots of socks and just play around mixing them. When dressing I just pick out the nearest two with similar colors – and sometimes not even that. I never have matching socks and like it that way. How have Polish sock-buying habits changed? In the past we were fixated on price and the more practical side of the product. Now people are paying attention to quality and originality. For many people, a five-pack pair of socks from a discount store is fine, but they’ll also consider some outstanding socks a must. If you had to wear just one pair of socks for the rest of your life, which would you choose? Impossible – I can’t even imagine such a situation!

For more info, see: takapara.com, skarpetoholik.pl

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BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY

Producing the world’s first plant-leather shoes, the Insider speaks to Wiola Wiertel and Sebastian Szypuła, founders of the groundbreaking BOHEMA

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

What is the BOHEMA look – what do you want it to say. S: When creating our collections, we always keep in mind what’s happening around the world – we reflect not just the things that inspire us, but also the things that scare us; after all, fashion mirrors social moods. From the outset, we’ve presented our definition of streetwear using innovative plantbased materials.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF BOEMA

ade using 100% vegan materials such as pineapple, cactus and apple leather, BOHEMA is the realization of Wiola and Sebastian’s dream of “creating a fashion brand with a message”. Innovative in their approach, and sexy in their style, BOHEMA’s footwear and accessories look set to conquer not just Poland, but beyond.

What’s the back story behind BOHEMA? S: As a little boy I used to watch my father, an experienced shoemaker, making shoes by hand, pair-by-pair. Later in my youth I started skateboarding, so street art became enmeshed with my outlook. Add to that the fact that I’ve been vegan since I was 13 and you get the beginnings of BOHEMA: we mix street art influences with craftsmanship and cruelty-free style.

Who is the BOHEMA buyer? W: Primarily people who are socially aware but simultaneously appreciate timeless quality. They attach great importance to craftsmanship whilst also caring for the planet; our products are eco and animal friendly, so they match the tastes of these customers perfectly. How does Warsaw inspire you? S: We love Warsaw’s eclectic energy, and you see that expressed in both its fashion and architecture. There’s a real big city energy here. What was your big breakthrough moment as a brand? W: I think it was the creation of the world’s first cactus leather shoes. Also, the opportunity to promote the brand worldwide at international fashion trade shows has been important, as has being part of the Vegan Fashion Week Society.

S: We’ll always create cruelty-free fashion. Of course you’ve been asked this a zillion times, but is plant-based leather as good as “the real thing”? W: Yes, of course we’ve been asked this! The plant materials we create and use are an alternative to animal skin and provide the same qualities: they’re breathable, water resistant and durable. Finally, who is your all time style icon? And why! W: Definitely Kate Moss. I love her nonchalance, eclecticism and sense of rebellion. Her style and approach to fashion are very close to mine – instead of blindly following trends, she observes them and creates her own. S: David Bowie; he really understood art and design and used that to create his own style. He was definitely a non-conformist icon!

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned since founding the brand? W: First of all, creating BOHEMA taught us the value of humility and persistence. Sometimes, situations occur that are beyond your control – giving up isn’t an option, instead you need to adapt quickly while remaining close to your core values. Who in the world of celebrity would you love to see wearing BOHEMA? W: To be honest, anyone that has a positive impact on their fans – the kind of people that speak up on issues like animal rights or environmental protection yet are also considered style icons: that way, they’d be seen as living proof that plantbased materials can provide a great alternative to animal skin. With that in mind, we’d love to see the likes of Joaquin Pheonix, Brad Pitt, Anne Hathaway, Kate Moss, Charlize Theron, Hailey Bieber or Ellen DeGeneres in our shoes. You’re a streetwear brand – what do the streets of Warsaw say to you! S: It’s time for the revolution! Tell me a Bohema secret! W: Our new drop is made of grapes – can you believe it!? Do you have any golden rules that you refuse to break…

For more on BOHEMA, see: en.bohemaclothing.com

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DRESS TO IMPRESS

WHAT’S IN STORE Piaseczno | Puławska 42E designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Conveniently located 30-minutes from downtown Warsaw, swing by Poland’s largest premium outlet to fill up on your favorite brands. Recently expanded, the centre is now a home to new stores such as Lacoste, Made in M (with MaxMara, Marella, Max&Co and Pennyblack), Marc O’Polo, Swarovski, Tous and Twinset. Offering year-round discounts ranging from 30-70%, discover over 130 designer brands within a stunning complex designed to effect the look of Warsaw’s Baroque historic center. Unmatched in size and scope, nowhere else in Poland offers more fashion, more promotions and more fun than a trip to Designer Outlet Warszawa!

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

Offering year-round discounts of between 30-70%, you’ll look a million dollars at a fraction of the price * The prices listed are for informational purposes only and do not constitute a commercial offer within the meaning of Article 66, Paragraph 1 of the Civil Code.

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learning

kiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 64

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrows-

18.12.2018 12:32

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, the Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl

green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong

focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

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of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

TRILINGUAL PRE-SCHOOL AND NURSERY “THREE LANGUAGES” CENTER

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL Akademeia High School is an academically selective international

school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org

or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the

Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US,

France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping accessories

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

books ATTICUS

You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl

BOOKS FOR COOKS EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of self-care and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko. com

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori

clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves. ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl

CZUŁY BARBARZYŃCA

A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

FUNDACJA BĘC ZMIANA

A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl

KSIĘGARNIA BULLERBYN

MANDEL

Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with

A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl

MODA NA CZYTANIE

Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul. Bracka 25

RADIO TELEWIZJA

Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts. ul. Andersa 29

SCHUBERT

Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian

Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

PAN TU NIE STAL

Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

malls & department stores ARKADIA

Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

DESIGNER OUTLET WARSZAWA

Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop

garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Liu Jo, Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

KONESER

Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

VITKAC

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

warsawinsider.pl

APRIL COME’TH

A look at Poland’s past April struggles...

s we lurch headlong into another full lockdown, hopes of a normal spring already look dashed – but then we’re used to that by now. And to be clear, I’m not talking about covid, I’m talking about spring: when’s it ever been normal in Warsaw? In particular, April. Looking back, it’s proved nothing if not a month of melancholy and sorrow: who can forget, for instance, the death of Pope John Paul II on April 2, 2005. When news filtered through of the pontiff’s death, many in Warsaw were just limbering up for a Saturday night out. Those plans were swiftly forgotten as church bells tolled and bars and businesses turned off their lights. For a week, the city – and country –

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2021

were plunged into grief. Five years later, on April 10th, the scenes repeated themselves when news broke of a plane crash over Smolensk. Killing all on board, among them the President of Poland, the nation was again left stunned and bewildered. As daffodils bloomed around us, the city found itself walking shellshocked and hollow-eyed through a week of mourning. Still fresh in the memory, what we didn’t realize at the time was just how much events of the time would shape the course of the country, setting out a political narrative that divides Poland to this day. So yes, April is anything but normal in Poland; that Warsaw looks set to start it once more in a state of ghostly trance has become almost par the course. But let us remember, also, the rebirth and renewal that will inevitably follow.

WIKICOMMONS

LOOKING BACK

Akademeia High School

RECRUITMENT WEEKENDS

2021/2022

Akademeia High School is an international boarding school in Warsaw, offering a globally recognized curriculum of iGCSEs and A Levels. We offer young people a combination of academic excellence, co-curricular activities, and individual wellbeing support to help develop their talents, passions and life skills. Our student body typically go on to study at many of the world’s most prestigious universities and colleges.

Upcoming recruitment weekends in 2020/21 school year: • 17-18 April 2021 - Y10, Y12 • 29-30 May 2021 – Y10, Y12

Apply online:

https://akademeia.edu.pl/en/online-recruitment-weekend/