17 minute read
Kępa food & drink
NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH: SASKA KĘPA
Something of a garden suburb, the affluent Saska Kępa district is quieter than most. But amid the modernist villas and leafy backstreets sit several food and drink options that make life feel good…
Mr. Greek Souvlaki
Londyńska 16 Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reins in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family.
Vegan Ramen Shop
Finlandzka 12 We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks.
Francuska 30
Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, shaded from the sun by the dangling overhead yellow-blue brollies. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by a snacky
Mięsny
Walecznych 64 To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the best informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. A primal joy, do your feasting inside a simply white-tiled interior, or the terrace that sprawls out in front.
menu of cakes and crepes.
Efes
Francuska 1 Furnished in an ‘exotic, 90s style’, the interior packs out with diners that appreciate hearty items such as the top-selling Iskender (kebab meat piled with sour cream and tomato sauce). But let’s not kid about, everyone in Warsaw knows Efes for its little take-away hatch – join the queue for one of the town’s street food legends.
Flaming
Francuska 2 Seen as a glass-fronted oblong, this pearl of inter-war modernism comes into its element each summer – in-filled with wooden platforms, the back garden is rife with pathways cut amid the plants and vegetation: for the best view though, climb the spiral staircase for moonlit cocktails and sparkly wines on the balcony. Impeccable in every way, Flaming is the height of Saska sophistication.
MOD Donuts
Paryska 27 The award-winning NYC-style donuts at MOD belong in a league of their own. Matching artisanal production methods with playful, all-natural toppings and fillings such as black forest gateau, this place has hit the bull’s eye with Saska’s younger crowd. Looking pretty in pink, visit too for ice cream and flowers! As for us, we pop in for yuzu bombolini.
Hałas
Elsterska 10 Divide Hałas into three sections: first, a tiny garden area with a couple of park benches; then, downstairs, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Finally, at the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty.
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska
Zwycięzców 49 An offbeat locale inside a recharged 1950s pavilion, find Towarzyska crowned with a tilting neon sign. Offering a fridge full of craft beer, competent cocktails, homemade lemonades and other alternative-minded drinks, it’s the best late night in the area. Soak it up on the terrace steps or inside an ascetic interior of bare concrete, chipped furnishings and retro tile-work.
NEXT STOP: SAN ESCOBAR
What happens when one cult venue spawns another?
WHAT’S IN A NAME? No, the name isn’t some veiled reference to that Columbian dude Pablo, but a tongue-incheek dig at one of the more comic moments in Polish politics. The story is thus: back in 2017, the then foreign minister, Witold Waszczykowski, found himself the butt of all jokes after asserting that he had held meetings with nearly 20 countries “for the first time in the history of our diplomacy.” Pushed to expand on this, he then namechecked an entirely non-existent paradise titled San Escobar. Memes flourished and the public went wild: so this, you see, is the root of the name.
TELL ME MORE Actually, it’s been possible to visit San Escobar for quite some time. Starting life in 2017, to this day it runs as a cult corner spot found in the depths of Hala Gwardii. Serving craft beers and South American snacks, it’s become an essential part of this food hub, and a magnet for a fun-loving crowd that mingles with ease. As we all know, Hala Gwardii is great, but it’s the San Escobar unit that’s the greatest bit of all.
BUT… THEY’VE GROWN! That’s right. Not content with being the dons of Gwardii, the crew behind San Escobar have conquered new territory. Taking the space once occupied by Warsaw’s best-ever wing joint, Zkurczybyk, they’ve moved to open a new bar that seeks to emulate the success of their elder brother.
THE LOOK The previous tenant did a good
Republica San Escobar
ul. Poznańska 7 (enter from Wilcza)
job of kitting out the interior and filling it with a hip hop / steam punk / super cool vibe; aware of this, San Escobar have done little to transform this – well if it ain’t broke, why fix it? Remaining, you’ve got an interior filled with corrugated iron sheets, a zappy neon, exposed brick, bike pedals on the footrests and lots of chunky woods and brothel red lighting. Even the signature piece remains: a wall designed to mimic a laundromat, only with the faces of the washing machines in-filled with pics or iconic rock gods.
… AND THE VIBE Absolutely bloody brilliant. There’s a fun-loving spirit here that’s impossible to resist: bad moods are banned. Helping this are the dimensions – with such a small footprint, it takes about six people to generate an atmosphere, and as the night draws on you’ll find the party spilling outside on the tight pavement terrace. Aiding and abetting the good times are the owners – keenly engaged in their project, find them working the crowd, buying drinks for their mates and even people who aren’t. And yes, the drinks: four or so craft beers on tap, and a range of quick-fix cocktails that’ll leave your legs bandy.
FINAL WORD We loved the place – lacking the usual kind of pretense associated with Warsaw’s city center, you feel that this is a bar where attitudes aren’t welcome. And with cult venues like Kraken, NOLA and Gemba just mere steps away, the opening of Republica San Escobar has created a kind of nocturnal Bermuda Triangle that’ll swallow you whole and leave you in pieces. Leave the passport at home, you ain’t going to be going anywhere after.
TAKE THE POLYGRAPH
Pollypizza passes the test with flying colors...
Pollypizza NEOpolitan
ul. Puławska 24, pollypizza.pl.
Fact: every neighborhood deserves a good pizza joint. Acting as a focal point for informal meet-ups, they’re also a get-out-of-jail card when it comes to last minute dinner solutions when the kitchen is bare. But the best ones, they’re the ones that go a further yard. The really lucky neighborhoods, they’re the ones that have a pizzeria run by passionate owners that have invested their soul into making things work – and in this regard, the denizens of Mokotów have scored big time.
WHAT’S POLLY? Fitted out with mid-20th century furniture that’s been tweaked to act as counters and storage space, Polly tricks herself out with such whimsical touches as disco balls salvaged from Poland’s PRL period. Entering, it’s not dissimilar to entering someone’s apartment – someone with an eye for detail and a hankering for vintage.
Should you first avoid catching your head on one of the hanging plants (good luck on that!), you’ll find your eyes drawn towards the kind of orphan chairs you wish carried a price tag – I mean, how good would they look positioned in your living room?
Of course, there’s more: a 1960s lamp with a polaroid of a happy punter; a painting resembling the Six Million Dollar Man’s girlfriend; and mustard yellow glasses adorning the white-tiled tables. Sit around them on wide wale corduroy banquettes and admire lights decorated with autumnal-colored ribbons and, get this, a homemade tree jutting out from the corner. Wrapping up the vibe, find a neon that declares ‘Cocktails’ in glowing yellow letter.
AND WHAT’S WITH THE FOOD? With more and more Neapolitan pizzerias opening around town, pizzaiolos are having to catch Warsaw’s attention with far-out ideas. Polly does that with gusto. The interior aside, headline grabbers include a pizza titled Legalize Marinara (featuring splashes of CBD oil) and another called Ninja Turtles (alright, we’ve seen that elsewhere).
Also notable, we loved the Texas Sun, a pizza with chili honey splattered over it as if by Jackson Pollack – think of it like a sweet kiss after eating a spicy pepper. Moreover, pay attention to the starters: the burrata with hazelnuts is praiseworthy as too the number of veggie options.
INSIDER TIP With good food comes long lines. Churning out 250 pies on a good day, PP does get crowded. Bearing that in mind, there’s a temptation to order a takeaway and head to Morskie Oko while you wait for your goodies. That’s all good and well, but doing so you miss out on the scintillating thrill of cutting your pie with a glitzy leopard pizza cutter! - KD
INSIDER'S GUIDE
For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…
COMMUNITY HUBS
Browary Warszawskie
Norblin Factory
BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE
ul. Grzybowska 60, browarywarszawskie.com.pl Occupying a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele, Browary has proved central to the regeneration of Wola. Opened in 2021, it has become almost a district within a district with revitalized historic buildings rubbing alongside new upmarket apartment blocks.
FOOD: marketed as a premium food hall, the ‘communal’ food section finds itself inside a revamped set of vaulted cellars and features a central cocktail bar run by maestro Karim Bibars and around a dozen food units. Beyond, it is the number of bona fide restaurants that have bloomed all around that really stand out, and these include Bombaj Masala, the strikingly popular Japonka and the Adriatic-themed Munja.
DRINK: both Baila and Sassy have been firm hits and have, in their own different ways, merged food and drink with live entertainment. Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s has become Warsaw’s top sports bar, whilst no mention of Browary can overlook the existence of Browar Warsawska, a giant brewpub-restaurant with outstanding food and beer. For the most part, this summer will see people converge in and around the sunken courtyard at the center of this project.
ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE
ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com A former power plant, Elektrownia once powered large parts of the city – today, this is remembered via preserved elements such as a panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture!
FOOD: with each unit marked by its own neon sign, the food hall is visually magnificent. Of the more popular outlets, check out Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and MariCruz Mission Burrito. Set elsewhere in the complex, we’ve visited Dock 19 and Blue Cactus this issue and can vouch for their excellence.
DRINK: the food hall includes a craft beer point as well as bars on either side: authors cocktails from Kandela as well as beers and classic sips from Centrala. As ever, most people will tend to flock outside this summer to Elektrownia’s lawn-filled plaza in front, or to the Patio out in the back.
OTHER: the top floor beauty hall offers unique self-care solutions, whilst the retail offer is also finely-tuned to fit the spirit of the place: upmarket Polish design and fashion brands are particularly well-represented.
HALA GWARDII
Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl For many, this is the most ‘authentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, something rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsarist-era structure. Note: open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
FOOD: on one side, a farmers’ market flourishes with fresh produce and artisanal goods a forte. Segregated by a communal seating plan in the center, the
Elektrownia Powiśle
rest has seen the floorplan lined with street food units of high reputation.
DRINK: though lacking a central bar as such, drinking plays a big role at Gwardii – dealing craft beers, San Escobar is legendary for its lively spirit and its cult reputation is shared with Niewinność wine bar.
OTHER: you could argue Gwardii is the most socially engaged of the hubs, and that’s reflected by an events program that includes frequent pet fairs, national food events, vinyl markets, concerts and even boxing galas!
HALA KOSZYKI
ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays!
FOOD: Koszyki contains – at last count – eight street food vendors (our highlight being the burritos at Gringo) and a similar number of standalone restaurants: including the 24hr Cma, and the premium Polish restaurant Warszawski Sen.
DRINK: the Central Bar in the middle dominates life at Koszyki and offers decent cocktails and, even, a rather good version of Pimm’s. For craft beer, head to Kielba w Gebie. Though well air-conditioned, the whole point of summer here is to gather outside and drink on the small but lively plaza at the front. All life is here!
NORBLIN FACTORY
ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl Behold, Warsaw’s newest hub! Opened last year on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating.
FOOD: the largest of all food halls, exploring Norblin takes time and is best done over several weekends. Known as Food Town, find over 20 units as well as a large section dedicated to various Asian cuisines. The generous amount of seating ensure that despite its popularity, it’s rarely a problem finding your own private space. Restaurant-wise, and the big news this month is the launch of another outpost of Blue Cactus.
DRINKS: this they do incredibly well. Again, choices are numerous, and highlights include the cocktail-driven, jazzy-spirited Piano Bar and the Uwaga craft beer pub. Inside the main complex, find more bars such as Amaro Mio and Old Shaker – these are overseen by Tomasz Malek, one of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture.
OTHER: the BioBazar farmers’ market has no peer when it comes to size and scope. But Norblin is about more than just food and drinks, and that much is pushed home by the presence of Poland’s most luxurious cinema – Kinogram – and an intriguing concept called the ArtBox Experience that takes you on a multimedia journey into Wasaw’s pre-war past.
EVENTS
VINTAGE FAIR
Score those sought after cowboy boots at the 9th edition of one of the best vintage fashion fairs in town! Over 60 sellers will gather at this replenished former power plant. Launching mid-pandemic did not dim the potential of this trendy new location, which has quickly become known for its youthful energy. Free entry and dogs welcome. 4-5 June @ Elektrownia Powiśle (level -1)
ARTISANAL ICE CREAM FAIR
Though the main event is centered around ice cream, the Ice Cream Fair will also include many fun activities aimed at the youngest ice cream lovers. A colorful wash-off tattoo stand, face painting station, puppet show, stilt-walking and live bands are only some of the attractions planned for the three-day-long event. 3-5 June @ Wars Sawa Junior (Marszałkowska 104/122)
CLASSICAL AT KOSZYKI 5TH EDITION
Since 2017 this series of events has attracted over 50,000 attendees and in 2019 found itself nominated for the Warsaw Cultural Education Award. Counting the National Philharmonic as its partner, upcoming concerts include a performance by Julia Łozowska on June 5th, Iwo Zeju Li and Magdalena Dębowska on the 12th, the Accorvion Duo on the 19th (playing accordion and violin) and a closing concert on the 26th. Ongoing until June 26th @ Hala Koszyki
EVENING OF IMPROVISED SONG
This new Sunday series brings resident actors from the Comedy Club Theater to Fabryka Norblina. What songs will be sung? That’s impossible to answer. Everything you’ll hear will be composed on the day with the audience’s involvement! With words sung to the music of Joanna Kucharczyk and Agata Pankowska, this will be an evening to remember. Entry is free. 5 June @ Norblin
FUNDRAISER FOR PETS IN NEED
Artisanal crafts, jewelry, accessories for pets and much more! Hala Gwardii will be holding a charity fundraising fair to raise money for cats hurt as a result of the war in Ukraine. 11-12 June @ Hala Gwardii
IN THE DOCK!
Well-known as one of the city’s top restaurateurs, when Mateusz Gessler’s venture at Elektrownia Powiśle opened in December, many saw it as the final piece in the jigsaw: the kind of big-name resto-bar that the project demanded to act as its gleaming star. That said, referring to Dock 19 by Mateusz Gessler as simply a resto-bar fails to accurately convey just what it has accomplished.
Gathering the great and the good of Warsaw, it has become a destination in its own right, one crowned by a long rooftop terrace for the starry nights ahead. As impressive as it promises to be, this final element tells just a fraction of the story. Below, explore a stunning interior that lends a rich dose of glam to this otherwise industrial space – whispering measured affluence, that sensation continues on the flanking ground floor terrace, a neat space that catches the warmth of the early weeks of summer.
Yet it is not just the design that is in tune with the moment, but the menu as well. Incorporating various Asian influences, options include such light, vibrant bites as Hong Kong style shrimps and Vietnamese fried spring rolls with shrimps – these are dishes that marry simplicity with sophistication. But there can be no Dock 19 without drinks. Taking its dual role as a bar seriously, the cocktails here are masterfully composed glories that get no better than the Passion Dock 19. Silky smooth, find vodka infused with mango-passion fruit yogurt, Passoa, lemon juice and sugar syrup. Topped at your will with a smidgen of Prosecco, it is a drink to return for time and time again…
DOCK19 by Mateusz Gessler Elektrownia Powiśle, dock19.pl
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
SEE YOU AT THE… PATIO
Located towards the back entrance of Elektrownia Powiśle, what could easily have risked becoming something of a deserted noman’s land has again been transformed into a vital and valued part of the project with the introduction of a seasonal terrace sitting in the shade of this former electricity plant. Featuring strings of tactically placed overhead lights, potted trees and blooming plants, the Patio offers a sharp contrast to the dark, cavernous form of the Food Hall inside. But more than just a place to eat in the sun, the presence of a cocktail bar and DJ decks have made this a nailed-on summer star.
Elektrownia Powiśle
ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com
