25 minute read
Warsaw’s best fountains and summer views What’s On: June happenings
SUNSETS &
SUNSETS & WATER-FALLS
Summer’s back, and with it a range of options to suit all tastes and wallets. But as they say, the best things in life are free, and they don’t come any freer than gazing as the sunset or sashaying through a fountain…
Palace of Culture & Science
Sunset Moments
Witness to some of Warsaw’s most turbulent chapters (a coup, wartime destruction, fire, etc.!), Poniatowski Bridge has remained positively imperial in its pomp with its unmistakable silhouette now all the more powerful when juxtaposed against the glimmering sight of the National Stadium in the distance. Unsurprisingly, the stretch of beach on this side is one of Warsaw’s top summer hangouts – and never does it feel better than when the skies turn scarlet and the sun slowly sets on the hundreds gathered on the sands below…
Watch rose-tinted sunsets from the futuristic rooftop garden that sits on top of the BUW Library (Dobra 68/70). Brimming with vine encrusted pergolas, miniature apple trees, silvery willows and metallic walkways, this unexpected park comes with the bonus of fab riverside views and a brilliant vantage point that juts from the roof. Celebrating its 20th birthday this year, the project has been previously described as “a symbolic keystone between culture, nature and the cosmos.”
When moving to Warsaw, visiting the viewing platform at the Palace of Culture (Pl. Defilad 1) becomes part of the unspoken deal. Located on the 30th floor, the windswept wraparound terrace opens late each summer, with opening hours customarily extended at the weekend from the standard 8 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Reputedly Warsaw’s most visited attraction, viewing the sunset from here is like starring in your own romcom.
The bell tower of St. Anne’s (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) is a stairway to heavenly views. Haul yourself up the 147 steps to enjoy the city’s most picturesque viewing platform – unofficially ranked
From Most Siekierakowski
as Warsaw’s top kiss spot, the views of the Castle Square are exceptional: it’s as if you can reach out and touch King Ziggy’s column that rises in front. Close by, and closer to the ground, leave a lovelock on the railings of the viewing platform at Gnojna Góra. After gaze longingly as the sun lowers over Praga to the east.
When skies turn red head to the bridges of Warsaw. Scissored in shadows from the criss-crossing support pillars, Gdański is a favorite for lovebirds, as is Świętokrzyski – featured in a medley of films, vids and ads, its appeal has proved enduring. For those that fancy themselves as photographers, head to the southern Siekierkowski: flanked by woodland, the river’s natural bend and the distant glimmering skyline provides for plenty of dramatic contrasts between nature and the city.
Water Worlds!
MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN PARK
Attracting a million people per year (woah!), Warsaw’s Multimedia Fountain Park is one of the city’s big summer winners. Equipped with 367 nozzles capable of firing out 30,000 liters of water per minute, it’s got the capacity to display a total of 16 million colors – yep, we didn’t know that many existed either. Covering an area of 2,850 sq/m, the weekends are when the action hits fever pitch carefully coordinated water displays paired with audio and visual effects. Back after a two-year covid-enforced break, throughout June shows take place every Friday and Saturday at 9:30 p.m. Skwer 1 Dywizji Pancernej
ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE
The epitome of the new live-work-play urban model, this restored power plant is at its most beautiful in summer when the plaza outside buzzes with activity: but it ain’t just about the al fresco cinema or restaurant terrace scene, but also the multimedia fountain outside the entrance. During daytime, it’s not unusual to find kids running through it – as night settles, join the millennials shooting selfies in front of its illuminated colors. Dobra 42
METROPOLITAN
Taking center stage inside Sir Norman Foster’s donut-shaped Metropolitan building, this fountain reaches a height of 15 meters and is recognized as one of the first ‘intelligent’ fountains found in the country. Costing over half a million złoty, the Canadian-designed system responsively reacts to wind conditions to ensure no-one gets drenched unless they really want to. Pl. Piłsudskiego 1
GRZYBOWSKI
For a potted history of Warsaw look no further than Pl. Grzybowski. Penned in by socialist blocks, pre-war tenements and latter day skyscrapers, its clash of sights and sounds is one of the archetypal Warsaw experiences. And at its center, find a concrete plaza brimming with flowers, shaded benches, al fresco historical displays and a tinkling water feature spanned with wooden walkways – often featuring in commercials, social media influencers also love shooting here. Pl. Grzybowski Multimedia Park
WARSAW SPIRE
Hemmed in by greenery, curving pathways and pristine street furniture, find an array of synchronized water jets combining to provide a display that looks utterly hypnotic once darkness slides in. With the Spire tower glimmering above, it’s really quite a sight – home to a seasonal outdoor cinema and glowing blocks housing temporary art displays, the place typifies modern Warsaw. Pl. Europejski
WISŁA BOULEVARDS
There’s a few jillion fountains to admire, including a historic one of the Warsaw Mermaid. Found at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge this pre-war survivor was modeled on a poetess fatally wounded on the first day of the 1944 Uprising – look carefully, and you’ll spot bullet holes round the base. For those that care not for the past, oodles of contemporary fountains can be found running along the riverside with the highlight being a pod of water-spouting whale statues. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie
Elektrownia Powiśle
What to do in June
Let the good times begin! Fully primed for a summer to remember, the city’s June calendar dives straight in at the deep end with a range of full-throttle events to send the mood soaring…
SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
Loud & Proud!
Whereas some Polish cities treat their pride parades with suspicion and – on occasion – outright hostility, the Warsaw version has found itself strongly supported by the incumbent Mayor. The largest event of its kind in Poland, the divided nature of Polish society nonetheless means that the route usually remains unpublished until the very last moment in the interests of safety – i.e., to deter counter-gatherings. Despite that, it’s a sure bet that the area around the Palace of Culture will figure highly. Forecast to draw thousands, it’s also a given that the party will continue long into the night in the city’s more gay-friendly venues.
Interestingly, adding a topical twist, this year has seen organizers join forces with Kyiv Pride in a show of solidarity. “Due to Russia’s attack on Ukraine, the jubilee anniversary of the Equality March in Kyiv cannot be held in its traditional format,” they write. “For us involved in Warsaw’s Equality Parade, community means standing up for others. Community means creating space for voices that cannot be heard. Community means walking hand-in-hand for the safety and freedom of those who have had such values taken away from them… We call on the community to join the Warsaw and Kyiv Pride march together and stand up for peace, love and the freedom of the Ukrainian people.”
Where: Unknown at press time When: June 25th Web: fb.com/paradarownosci
Spend Sunday With Chopin
First unveiled on November 14th, 1926, the Chopin monument had been years in the planning – as early as 1889, members of the Warsaw Musical Society had discussed such a memorial to mark the 40th anniversary of the composer’s death, and in 1901 Tsar Nicholas II bent to the growing clamor for a monument after the Polish opera singer Adelajda Brocholska personally appealed to him following a performance in St. Petersburg.
Despite this, it was to take another couple of decades until the city’s favorite son was rightfully remembered – even if only for a fleeting moment. In 1940, it became the first Warsaw monument to be destroyed by the Nazis when it was removed under the orders of Hans Frank. With Chopin regarded as one of the great patriotic figureheads of Poland, the monument’s destruction was a purposeful ploy to crush the Polish spirit – but if anything, the iconoclastic act galvanized the local population.
Apocryphal it might be, but the next day it is said a slogan appeared on the plinth as if painted by the composer: “I do not know who did this,” it read, “but I know why: so that I won’t play the funeral march for your leader.”
Rebuilt in 1958, the 16-ton statue was constructed based upon old photographs as well as a miniature gypsum model found in a destroyed cellar belonging to Wacław Szymanowski – the sculptor who had first coined the original design in 1907. Depicting the composer sat under a willow tree, the six-meter statue has since become one of the city’s iconic meeting points, and its rose-fringed setting ideal for romantic trysts.
However, it is for its free summer concerts that it is now best known. Taking place for the 63rd time, this summer drop by at noon or 4 p.m. each Sunday to listen to recitals from both Polish and international pianists. Attracting hundreds, and occasionally thousands of people, they’ve become a defining element of summer in the city.
PHOTOGRAPHS TOP NAC, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK
Up, up and away!
For only the third time in history, the skies over the river will fill with the sight of hot air balloons huffing their way over the water as part of the Warsaw Balloon Fiesta. A quite staggering spectacle, the event is expected to attract thousands of onlookers vying for the best vantage point along the Wisła. If previous years are to go by, anticipate around 25 balloons to make it up into the air, though the entire event will of course be subject to weather conditions.
When: 10th to 12th June Web: fb.com/balonowastronanieba
Feeling Bookish?
Previously drawing authors of the caliber of Zadie Smith, Hanif Kurieshi and Vivian Gornick, the tenth ever Big Book Festival is widely regarded as the most dynamic of Warsaw’s literary events. Though largely of interest to Poles, there’s enough of an international presence to pique the curiosity of non-native speakers. Among others, writers that have been booked to appear include Megan Nolan (Acts of Desperation) and Gabriel Krauze (Who They Was). Not short of wacky creativity, Saturday night will also involve a party where guests are challenged to dress-up and party whilst dressed as their favorite character or book title!
When: 24th to 26th June Where: Otwocka 14 Web: bigbookfestival.pl
Be Orange!
From modest beginnings in 2008, the Orange Warsaw Festival has emerged as one of Poland’s key musical festivals, rivaled in size only by the Heineken Open’er held each year in Gdynia. Of course, the term modest beginnings is relative – even the first event attracted a crowd of 35,000. Originally created with the support of city hall, the days of free admission are long gone, replaced instead by a slick two-day event held at the racetrack.
Considered one of the top big format events in Central Europe, it’s taking place for the first time since 2019 (blame you-know-what for that). Thus far, confirmed acts include Florence + The Machine, Tyler, The Creator, Stormzy, Foals and NAS. Note, festival goers will be allowed to travel for free on public transport – moreover, the city has also pledged to lay on extra transport connections to ferry crowds back and forth. With regards to tickets, numerous configurations exist, with the basic two-day package weighing in at PLN 529 (PLN 999 for VIP access). Basic one-day passes have been priced at PLN 329 (PLN 629 for VIP). All tickets purchased for the aborted 2021 event will also be valid.
When: June 3rd to 4th Where: Służewiec Race Track Web: orangewarsawfestival.pl
Go Up In Smoke
The law regarding BBQ’s pretty idiot proof: don’t have a smoke-out on your apartment balcony, the forest or anywhere else that risks going up in flames. Do so, and you’ll get a hefty fine from the uniformed lads of Warsaw’s Straż. Most historic parks are also off limits, so you can forget wheeling your barbie to a place like Łazienki.
So, where can you spark up the grill? People-friendly public spaces are numerous, with classic faves including Pole Mokotowskie, Park Skaryszewski and that bit of scrubland on the eastern Praga side of Poniatowski Bridge.
Where product is concerned, Mięsny in Saska Kępa is our go-to place to stock up on meat, but we’re also partial to visiting Crazy Butcher and Befsztyk. Also, let’s hear it for Darren at Ke Nako (kenakofoods.pl), a purveyor of homemade South African Boerwor sausages. For English bangers, then check out the Cumberland sausages at the online Koko & Roy deli (kokoandroydeli.com). Finally, to give your meats a bit of oomph, don’t forget to stock up on hot sauce! Do so at bedziepieklo.pl, an online portal with an interesting line in artisanal Polish hot sauces – in terms of producers, Lubelskie Słoiki are the pack leaders.
SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
Screen Time
Summer brings with it an onslaught of open-air cinema options, and whilst most (make that all) had failed to release their plans at press-time, you can expect the seasonal kino scene to be up-andrunning by the end of the month – most likely, by the last weekend of June. Now though NONE of these had been confirmed as we hit the printing press, we’re fully expecting the following to open once again – and aside from those, we’re also pretty certain that hubs such as Norblin, Elektrownia, Koneser and Browary Warszawskie will also follow suit.
Filmowa Stolica Co-organized by the city, Filmowa Stolica is the biggie with several locations around town. In the past, that’s included a hugely diverse selection of venues such as Royal Wilanów, POLIN, Saski Park, the horseracing track, Kępa Potocka and many more besides. To see what plans they’ve cooked up this year, check filmowastolica.pl over the coming weeks. Kino Letni Na Plac Europejskim Held in the shadow of the Warsaw Spire, anticipate hammocks and deckchairs strewn around the pristine modern square that is Pl. Europejski. To keep up to speed, check into: fb.com/PlacEuropejski.
Kino W Łazienkach It doesn’t get better than watching random classics in Warsaw’s prettiest park – usually held at the outdoor amphitheater, you’ll find yourself in the very heart of this historic park. For details, see: fb.com/Muzeum.Lazienki.Krolewskie
U-Jazdowski Expect a mega laidback vibe in front of Ujazdowski Castle, an area bristling with bits of outdoor sculpture, hammocks and a couple of interesting food and drink options. Again, keep updated by checking in online: u-jazdowski.pl.
That Summer Feelin’
For foodies (and drinkers), nothing says summer more than the reopening of the legendary Nocny Market and its riverside sister, the madcap Lunapark…
Nocny Market It seems like each year it’s the same – debuting in 2016, we don’t think there’s been a single summer where we haven’t been told that this will be the last of the famed Nocny Market. That’s not them crying wolf, incidentally, rather a reality – set on a disused train platform, for years the future of this spot has hung in the balance. With the station due for an overhaul by the state rail service provider, it’s only the latter’s tardiness that has kept the Market in business.
And boy, are we glad about that. Still feeling as edgy as when it first premiered, Nocny Market brings together dozens of food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-fun collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some crazy-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. It is the essence of summer Warsaw.
ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket
Lunapark Otherwise knows as the hedonists asylum (at least by us), there is nothing we can say about Lunapark that we haven’t said before: this remains, no questions asked, just about the most imaginatively insane F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen.
Located in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex, this overgrown plot has been lent a Coney Island makeover to feature a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A wild world of top quality street food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness, it’s a haven of hip and a weekend essential that lasts till daybreak. True, during daylight hours on Friday and Saturday (it’s closed all other days), people converge here to feast on sticky paper plates whilst kids caper about; but at night, the atmosphere ratchets way, waaaay up. And nowhere more so than Hocki Klocki, an offshoot club whose entrance is constructed from giant bricks of Lego. Fringed by shipping containers housing bars and DJ decks, visit at night to jiggle in the open air with other party-loving souls.
ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla
Sto Lat Maluch!
June marks the 49th anniversary of the Fiat 126p, the diminutive rear-engine car that became one of unforgettable sights of communist era Poland. Introduced to Poland as part of Edward Gierek’s plan to ‘motorize’ the nation, prior to its rollout it was estimated that there were just 17 cars per 1,000 people in the country. Nicknamed the Maluch (‘the little one’), the Fiat 126p tipped those numbers right onto their head – produced under license from Fiat, in all 3,318,674 were manufactured up until 2000.
Zippy and nibble, these fierce little creates were also prone to calamity – the ‘start’ system had a rep for being particularly faulty, with common on-spot fixes famously utilizing sticks, belts and even bras. Even so, they attained a cult status, not least for their durability and magical powers - under communism, practically every family had tales of epic National Lampoon-style journeys undertaken to the beaches of Bulgaria. Famed for their remarkable capacity, iconic actress Małgorzata Potocka famously once recalled a riotous drive through Łódź with eleven people riding in and on a Maluch while glugging Soviet champagne.
Also nicknamed the Kaszlak (cougher) after its trademark throaty roar, it wasn’t just a phenomenon in Poland. Over 900,000 were exported abroad, and they remain tremendously popular in Cuba where over 10,000 are currently registered. Though retired from production at the turn of the millennium, their curiously amusing design has even reached Hollywood with famous owners including Tom Hanks. “I don’t know how many miles it will take on the California roads,” quipped the actor on delivery, “but I’m comforted to be able to fix it with a screwdriver and a ladies’ trouser belt.”
Though officially celebrating its birthday on June 6th, celebrations honoring this mighty mouse will take place on Saturday June 4th and will include a rally and car exhibition at the Polish Automobile Club at Powstańców Śląskich 127.
MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA
ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow
Despite being such a staple of the Polish diet – not to mention one of the country’s most famous culinary exports – dumpling restaurants have traditionally been low-impact affairs aimed more at oldies and traditionalists rather than any other demographic (e.g. people below fifty). True, in many ways that reflects the humble nature of the food. In a nation that spends half the years shivering under brittle blankets of frost, there are few dishes that lend more pleasure to life than a steaming plate heaped with pierogi. But come on, sometimes you want even the most basic of foods elevated another level.
Syrena Irena does that – firstly, by serving them inside an interior you actually want to stick around in. Designed by Projekt Praga, the retro-minded interior is awash with ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tabletops and bold blue colors. A witty homage to the classic eateries of old, it’s fun just to look at.
Ordering at the counter, the food is equally enjoyable with pierogi filling including delicious white sausage or sauerkraut and mushroom. Classics such as cheese and potato Ukrainian pierogi (formerly known as Russian pierogi until the invasion) are something of a default choice, but do also look for their more maverick suggestions: for instance,
sweet cheese and orange peel. Lovingly made by hand inside a white-tiled kitchen which you can peer right into, the food goes well beyond the mediocre standards that this tourist strip is famed for. In fact, for an updated taste of traditional Poland, this could become a culinary stalwart. Top it out with a nip of vodka or a slab of wuzetka cake and you have a very pleasant evening all but guaranteed.
Syrena Irena
Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, fb.com/syrenairena
FOODIE NEWS
What’s hot, what’s not and what’s happening around town…
FEELING SASSY
Already well-established in Gdańsk, Sassy have become the latest venue to open in the Browary Warszawskie complex. Open from Thursday to Saturday, head down for elaborate sushi and classy cocktails served in a glam and glossy venue that’s been designed to thrill – the ace up the sleeve is a live entertainment roster that involves drag queens, burlesque artists, DJs and jazz bands.
CHAMPIONS DETHRONED!
After well over two decades of business, Champions have ceased operations. A bastion of glitz and glittering trophies, one of the country’s most celebrated sports bars finally shut its doors just before Easter. Filling its vast floorspace, we’ve been told to expect a super-sized version of Paros – a well-regarded Greek restaurant with a current outpost on Jasna.
I, ROBOT
With staff shortages representing one of the biggest complaints in the F&B industry, one restaurant has found a novel solution to the crisis by unveiling Warsaw’s first robot waitress. Developed by LSI Technologies, and featuring cat-like facial features, find BellaBot prowling around the tables of Navona, an Italian eatery in the heart of Ochota. We’ll be visiting soon to learn if she warrants a tip…
COMING SOON…
As Warsaw’s gastro industry recovers from the long-terms effects of the Bat Virus, signs that things are looking up are coming thick and fast – as evidence of this, cult hangout Kraken have announced a new venue at an undisclosed venue in Żoliborz, whilst the outstanding Rusiko are to open another slice of Georgia on Pl. Teatralny. Also in the pipeline, the Argentinean culinary maestro Martin Gimenez Castro is in the process of recruiting for Franco Warsaw – we’ve no further details, but we’ve already pledged to be among the first there.
HUBBA BUBBA!
Praga’s renaissance rises another notch with the debut of an upmarket gem…
Signs of Praga’s ongoing gentrification are numerous, and although it’s the mixed use Koneser project that tends to hog the headlines, advances are being made in the streets all around. Sitting practically opposite the gloriously revived Kamienica Pod Sowami, a prewar tenement embellished with Gothic gargoyles, hub.praga is something of a poster child for the area’s regeneration – an upscale eatery overseen by one of the country’s leading chefs… OUT THE BACK Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘One To Watch’ title at the Insider’s 2016 Best of Warsaw awards. “Looking to challenge diners,” we wrote at the time, “Iwański’s cooking embraces obscure and unusual ingredients, fine-tuning them using the latest know-how and kitchen magic. A breathlessly exciting talent, the one problem is that his restaurant lies 40 kilometers away.” Not anymore is that an issue.
IN THE FRONT Greeted warmly by a supremely amiable waiter, you walk in to find a stunning dining room with high ceilings, long windows and an interior that’s effortless in its understated elegance – tan, beige and white, these seemingly neutral colors are brought to life by some statement art, moon-shaped mirrors and gleaming light fittings of different shape and size. Lightly embellished with contemporary culinary bibles such as The Nordic Cookbook, not to mention some discreet Gaggenau brand placement, this feel-good space is small but never suffocating – perfectly proportioned, it’s got a sense of insider privacy, something that rises yet further should you choose to sit in the little four-seater nook tucked in the back corner.
ON THE PLATE “We recommend four to five courses a’la carte,” states the menu, something that’s easily done given there’s eleven or so choices. Priced from PLN 22
hub.praga
ul. Jagiellońska 22, hub-praga.pl
to PLN 41, these mini-courses fill out to form a complete meal should you follow their advice; larger appetites, though, might want to extend a little beyond this. Those wanting the full 360 view, meanwhile, should opt to take the full tasting menu for PLN 360.
Looking like miniaturized works of art, each course is a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness: for us, a tartar topped with crunchy perilla leaves and served along with a waffle adorned with dots of egg yolk and a pair of marinated Mirabelle plums. Subtle and refined, it’s a dish where you bite, pause and reflect on the harmony of tastes.
Next, beetroot salad with hazelnut biscuit and a ginger flan – appealing on the eye, it’s another triumph of delicate and exquisite taste. This, mind you, pales next to what is modestly described as being ‘vegetable casserole / bechamel / lovage’. Bursting open with the softest of touches, its contents pour forth: carrots, marinated zucchini, broad beans. The freshness is vivid in its impact.
But every meal needs that standout moment where the tastes wallop you in the nuts, and in our case that’s what happens with the arrival of the veal. Though acutely small in its portioning, it’s a massive hit of flavor notes. Served with savoy cabbage and a strudel with duxelles mushrooms, for a brief moment I consider ordering another.
Exceptional in every regard, the peaks continue with dessert: a strawberry fantasia of ice cream, sorbet, fresh sorrel and a little hit of house vinegar. “You’re the first guest we’ve ever served this to,” says the waiter, “so let us know what you think.” The answer, I’m afraid, is not fit for print: OMFG. It’s really that good. AND A FINAL THOUGHT The location is audacious, and you can’t help but wonder if it’s a masterstroke or a mistake – can Praga support it? And if not, will enough outsiders visit? I would sincerely hope so. In this post-lockdown era, most new restaurants have played it safe by simply offering a reliably good feed. Iwański’s project on the other hand dares do something different by presenting an experience in the truest sense – it’s a restaurant that harks to the time when chefs wanted to thrill. And my God, Iwański does just that. Did we like it? Nah. We absolutely loved it.
