A legend returns: Blue Cactus review

THE RESURRECTION

Enshrined in Warsaw legend, the Blue Cactus has returned once more…

THE PAST First opened in 1997, the Blue Cactus was one of those early clutch of venues that set Warsaw’s gastronomy on a bold, new course. Having endured years of unadventurous cuisine, for Poles and expats alike, its bright, Tex-Mex flavors hoisted a culinary lifeline into the sea of bigos we’d previously flailed around in. But it was more than merely a restaurant: a bastion of life and good living, it became symbolic of Warsaw’s wild, early years in the capitalist world. THE NOW Shut in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively option kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. Make no mistake, veterans will enjoy this place, but so too will newer generations unfamiliar with the brand. There’s a vitality here, and though the interior does much to express that, it’s a point best reflected by the overall mood.

THE MENU Succinct and understandable, this is a menu that emphasizes modern trends that value concepts of freshness and provenance. Sourcing the chorizo from an artisanal producer based in Kashubia, the shrimp & chorizo starter should be treated as a case in point. This refinement is equally apparent via dishes such as the salmon ceviche and tartar ranchero.

THE HIGHLIGHTS For all the smart additions, what you’re dying to hear is how they fare on the taco and burrito front. The answer: very well indeed. We tried every taco combo served and suggest you do so too – there are no weak links, but there are certainly highlights: loaded with chicken, cucumber, pineapple and coriander, the Al Pastor is a victory of zing. As for the burrito, the care the chef extends to his food is amply demonstrated by what he does here: traditionally quite an ugly-looking thing, at the Blue Cactus this Mexican staple comes spliced in half and perched on a careful slick of salsa. Could this become the best burrito in Warsaw? Where we’re concerned, regular visits to check are already in the pipeline – say it loud: The Cactus is Backtus!

THE SALSAS Though the choice is limited to just three, this trio feel broad enough in both heat and scope to fulfill their requirements with honor and distinction. Full of fresh, homespun charm, the pico de gallo is a joy; the pina verde, on the other hand, is all about tang and subtle bite. Smooth in its consistency, addictive personalities will struggle to stop. Then, there’s the habanero chimichurri. Marketed as their hottest salsa of all, it’s got a lingering tingle that should please all but the most demented of heat-seekers. You get the idea of a kitchen that’s nailed it.

THE DRINKS Oddly, we could not find margaritas on the menu, but margaritas we ordered and plenty were delivered: strawberry; mango; classic. Repeat. Every bit as good as you want them, they’re all you need to get the fiesta started. Yet there’s more. Touting also a strong line-up of tequila, the drinks list is further bolstered by the appearance of craft beers from Inne Beczki. Going the extra mile, they’ve created their own Blue Cactus beer with a lime-cactus finish.

Blue Cactus

ul. Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle), blue-cactus.pl

Out With Friends

From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…

Cybermachina Warszawa

ul. Nowy Świat 54/56

This gaming bar is strange in every respect: among other decorations discover glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks and a toilet evoking Game of Thrones. Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to mimic a 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum!

BAR PACYFIK

ul. Hoża 61 Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kickass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman.

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

ul. Poznańska 12 Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

FOTON

ul. Wilcza 9A You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, but it makes this list for a super cool design that’s involves plenty of raw materials and a vast green fleet of tumbling plants – keeping them alive is a quite brilliant irrigational contraption set around the steel frames that support it all. It sure is a quite a sight and one that gets more pronounced the later it gets.

LEGENDS

ul. Emilii Plater 25 Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.

MIEJSCE CHWILA

ul. Żurawia 47 Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests

itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz.

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26. For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.

PARDON TO TU

Al. Armii Ludowej 14 Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!

PLAN B

ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela) Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery.

RITUAL

ul. Mazowiecka 12 Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER

Pl. Konesera 4 This the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country.

W OPARACH ABSURDU

ul. Ząbkowska 6 Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, you then need all the luck in the world to bulldoze through the scrum that has gathered to listen to Balkan rockers, Afro-Latin bands and the spectacularly named Bum Bum Orchestra.

WOREK KOŚCI

ul. Bagatela 10 There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor (over 400 replica skulls) as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal.

KEEP THINGS LIGHT

PIANO BAR

ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte.

Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

Źródło

ul. Targowa 81

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well.

BEZ GWIAZDEK

ul. Wiślana 8 Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

PATELNIA PATERA

ul. Wilcza 29A Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere!

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

ul. Brzeska 29/31 The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt.

STARY DOM

ul. Puławska 104/106 A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best.

THEFARM

ul. Mokotowska 8 Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry.

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

ul. Smolna 4 A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Vegan Scene

Astonishing as it sounds, Warsaw is officially rated as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet. We’d need a telephone book to list them all, so instead settled for a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

Peaches Gastro Girls

ul. Mokotowska 58

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

ul. Wilcza 11 Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc.

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

LEONARDO VERDE

ul. Poznańska 13 Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO

ul. Krucza 23/31 Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.

MOMENCIK

ul. Poznańska 16 You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.

UKI GREEN

ul. Koszykowa 49A Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

ul. Hoża 62 Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.

Best of Europe

Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw…

Frank

ul. Grzybowska 43A

Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).

BIBENDA

ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England.

BUTCHERY & WINE

ul. Żurawia 22 When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Fort Służew 1B Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

KONESER GRILL

ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser) Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that

means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.

LE BRACI

ul. Górnośląska 24 You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.

KLONN

ul. Jazdów 1B Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.

MUNJA

ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie) Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.

REST.BACZEWSKICH

Al. Szucha 17/19 Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in.

RUSIKO

Al. Ujazdowskie 22 To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!

ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

BEST of WARSAW

2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

Specialty Coffee

Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s our tried and tested faves…

Dobre Materia

ul. Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42). Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops.

COPHI

ul. Hoża 58/60 The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room!

FAT WHITE

ul. Andersa 6 Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past.

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

ul. Niemcewicza 3 Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.

FORUM

ul. Elektoralna 11 Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by

Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.

PO DRODZE

ul. Bagatela 11 Set over two rooms inside a beautifully renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, head to the back to discover the real soul of this cafe. Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit.

RELAKS

ul. Puławska 48 An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

ul. Wilcza 17 An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

STOR

ul. Tamka 33 Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.

U KRAWCA

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

SUMMER STAR

ROŚLINA

ul. Schroegera 80

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.

Special Night Out

When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…

Muzealna

Al. Jerozolimskie 3

Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington.

ALE WINO

ul. Mokotowska 48 Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.

DYLETANCI

ul. Rozbrat 44A The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

EPOKA

ul. Ossolińskich 3 Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8 Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising

NOBU

ul. Wilcza 46 Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73 Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20

ul. Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

ul. Poznańska 15 Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great pleasures.

CULINARY MASTERCLASS

NUTA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.

Bottoms Up!

Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…

Czarne Czerwone Złote

ul. Koszykowa 49A

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab.

BRUSH 2.0

ul. Nowogrodzka 6A Once darkness falls this on-trend barber shop transforms into a high-energy cocktail den populated by whiskered local scenesters and off-duty models. Mingle alongside them inside an industrial, masculine interior that’s heavy on raw brickwork, exposed steel and all the fixtures and fittings you’d expect in a barber’s: from revolving, stripy poles to cabinets full of razors. Incongruous as the overall concept sounds, everything comes together in seamless fashion.

CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA

ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1 Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.

EL KOKTEL

ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9 The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.

GRONO_MOKOTOWSKA

ul. Mokotowska 54 A place of subtle and calming class, their philosophy moves in rhythm with a design authored by the Moszczyńska Puchalska studio – featuring ceramic floor tiles and an inter-connected table arrangement, it’s an intimate space (30 sq/m!) that softly whispers goodness. Set with easy colors, there is nothing that overpowers the chief attraction: wines stored on gorgeous wall fittings that have been made to feel like they organically belong inside this pre-war property.

LANE’S GIN BAR

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when you discreetly enquire about

their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12) Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.

NOLA

ul. Wilcza 43 NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

ul. Wilcza 27 “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia.

REGINABAR

ul. Koszykowa 1 Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.

VHS BAR

Poznańska 7 An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!

WINNICE MOŁDAWII

ul. Czarnieckiego 63A Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house – wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden.

BORN FOR INSTA

PALOMA INN

ul. Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complementing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors.

Feeling Crafty!

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…

Browar Warszawski

ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!

CUDA NA KIJU

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused. Though less experimental than other tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.

CZEŚĆ

ul. Grzybowska 2 It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap? Yeah, by that we mean small, little places with six or seven beers on the go. The rotation of new finds is balanced well with traditional faves.

DRUGIE DNO

ul. Nowogrodzka 4 To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Evoking the look of a disused power station, the Double D. sports rugged brickwork and a scuffed style with the industrialized look amped up through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.

JABEERWOCKY

ul. Nowogrodzka 12 Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).

KUFLE I KAPSLE

ul. Nowogrodzka 25 Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The beer selection can be brilliantly radical.

PINTA

ul. Chmielna 7/9 Find a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and bits of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves.

Taste The Exotic

For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…

Japonka

ul. Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

BASIL & LIME

ul. Oboźna 9 One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara.

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

ul. Nowy Świat 58 Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.

CEVICHE BAR

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

GURU

ul. Widok 8 The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

ul. Koszykowa 1 Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

LE CEDRE

Al. Solidarności 61 & 84 With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise,

just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

KARMA

Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

LA SIRENA

ul. Piękna 54 Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.

PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

SENOR LUCAS

ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

THE COOL CAT

ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.

K-BAR

ul. Piękna 28/34 Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss.

WORTH THE WAIT

UKI UKI

ul. Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.