1996SinceMagazineCityOriginalCapital’sThe SEPTEMBER 2022 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723 ZŁ .10 (VAT 8% INCLUDED) #313 TIME FOR TUNA The restaurant you need to know - p. 42 Features: Take a street: exploring Chłod na’s many faces – p. 22 Football: Legia Warszawa inside out – p. 18 Art: rising graphic artist Adam Kosik – p. 16 Also... Books: Green Warsaw, an alternative guide – p. 12 Music: interview with Swayzee – p. 8 Local history: remembering SuperSam – p. 14
warsawinsider.pl 1 Contents September 2022 Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Content Editor Krystyna Spark kspark@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed TAURUSZakładyPrintedinsider@warsawinsider.plthrough:byGraficzneTel.(022)783-6000 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: Insider.Allwarsawinsider.plinsider@information©2022Warsaw Reviews: Foodie–Botap.39 News – p. Anons–Tuna41p.42 do Dzielni – p. Uwaga45 Piwo – p. 46 DISCOVER Bernardo Bellotto at The Royal Castle in Warsaw – p. Polish63 Footwear Brands – p. 65 interview: Hanka Kraszczyńska – p. 67 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com IN THESE INSANE, unusual and volatile times, there’s something comforting about predictability – not that there was anything com forting about this year’s annual heatwave. Relentless in its brutality, there were times we feared the city would melt into one big puddle of exhausted sweat. But the withering weather aside, it was good to see that Warsaw spent August doing what Warsaw does best: being exciting, energetic and a little bit eccentric. With that in mind, I’m hopeful that this issue is a reflection of all that – certainly, I don’t think it falls short when it comes to thrill. Lining up for you this issue, we spent an explosive night down at Legia; met a band that looks like it fell from space; and discovered a string of blinding food and drink venues that have made us wonder if covid ever happened. And to top it all off, we’ve also nosedived into the strangest street of all – Chłodna. A miniaturized version of all that we love about Warsaw, few strips capture the soul of the city in quite the same way. Hope you enjoy it. Until the next time, adios! Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.plDEMARIAKEVINBYPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPHDEMARIA,KEVINPHOTOCOVER
warsawinsider.pl 3 In front PUBLIC ART The Boy, The Myth, The Legend… Depicting a horned boy sitting on a dolphin, a legendary pre-war sculpture has returned to Park Skaryszewski over eighty-years after it mysteriously vanished.ZZW.WAW.PLPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPH
ZZW.WAW.PLSPREADTHISPHOTOGRAPHgranite. But despite its short life, the new Faun has already seen adventure aplenty after going missing for a few hours whilst sitting in Inspiredstorage.bythe figures found in Greco-Roman mythology, features of Faun include goatlike hooves and pointy ears. Symbolic of peace and fertility, more often than not fauns would be depicted through history as impish creatures living in wild, untamed woodland. Unveiled in August, visitors to Skaryszewski will find the latest incarnation of Faun perched in the south-east erly part of the park.
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4 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022
K nown as both ‘Zdrój’ and ‘Faun’, the sculp ture was originally unveiled in 1931 and won a prize in Paris four-years later. However, it disappeared at an unknown point during the war.Designed by Jan Biernacki, details about this lost treasure remained thin on the ground – with little mentioned about it in the pre-war press, many wondered if ever it actually even stood in Skaryszewski. That mystery, though, was solved in 2008 when the War saw Rising Museum received ninety-nine slides of pre-war Poland. Taken by an aviation engineer by the name of Witold Konieczny, they were donated to the institution by his son, Konrad, who by that time was liv ing in the States. Hidden among the booty was a picture of Faun, thereby irrevocably proving that the statue had, as originally be lieved, stood in Skaryszewski. Financed by a local history enthusiast, Mateusz Mróz, it was on his behest that a new sculpture was commissioned. Under the guidance of art historian Agnieszka Kaspr zak-Miller, a new 300 kilo work was sculpted from black African
warsawinsider.pl 5 UPRISING Kotwica Returns
The PLN 15 million project to rejuvenate the Uprising Hill in the city’s south took another step closer to completion after its iconic Kotwica monument was returned in August. Found in the city’s Siekierki district, the mound was created in the post-war years from tons of rubble brought from the center. Measuring approximately 35-meters in height, many viewed it as being a symbolic ‘tomb’. Accessed by what was reputedly the longest stairwell in the city, the 350 steps took visitors to a peak proudly capped with a Kotwica – the official emblem of ‘fighting Poland’. Now, however, plans are in full swing to breathe new life into the hill with these including the construction of a two-level viewing platform and a lapi darium containing relics discovered during the subsequent reconstruction of the city. Benefiting from a full renovation, the return of the anchor-shaped Kotwica marks a key stage of a reconstruction process that should finish later this year.
PARKS
ACTIVISM Fishy Business
With the Wisła drying to a low of just 29 centimeters, the river bed revealed a rich bounty of surprises in August – according to City Hall, among the discoveries were eight e-scooters, nine tires, city bikes, various cell phones, an expensive laptop (oops!), and a MacBook. Seven years ago, receding waters led to the discovery of a boat sunk during the Warsaw Uprising, a train carriage used by the Germans to haul rubble from the Ghetto, and 17th century booty stolen by the Swedes after they had ransacked the city.
Moved by the ecological catastrophe in the Odra River, War saw-based artist Bartek Kiełbowicz has created a series of fishshaped templates that can be printed and then spray-painted onto street and walls to express dissatisfaction with the handling of the crisis. Making international news, Poland’s longest river found itself in the headlines throughout much of August after a mass die-off of fish left both scientists and government officials baffled. With the root cause still yet to be explained, environmentalists have voiced fears that the Odra’s delicate ecosystem could take decades to recover.
6 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 In front • news DEMARIAKEVINPAGEOPPOSITEMATERIAL,PRESSPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPHS
Warsaw’s greenery authority has announced the forthcoming de velopment of seven pocket parks across the city. Financed as part of the civic budget, the parks will be developed in locations around Bielany, Praga, Ursynów and Mokotów. Occupying plots of be tween 400 sq/m and 2,000 sq/m, they will all feature pedestrian paths, trees, shrubs and street furniture. Having already enjoyed much success in Kraków, pocket parks seek to revive forgotten urban corners and nourish the environment whilst simultaneous ly reconnecting communities and providing them with green-mind ed leisure spots.
HeroesSizedPocket
CITY Sunken Treasure!
warsawinsider.pl 7 PUBLIC ART Welcome?Refugees A controversial mural has been unveiled on Krucza based upon an iconic picture shot last year at the height of the refugee crisis on the Polish-Belarussian border. Depicting an Afghan woman holding a cat, the picture was originally shot by Grze gorz Dąbrowski of Gazeta Wyborcza. Taken in a refugee camp, the photo went viral and helped spark a debate as to the treat ment of migrants. Painted by Inga Skrzyszowska, the Warsaw mural has revisited this issue – welcomed by human rights activists, it has nonetheless been met with indignation by others who argue that it provides a skewed view of facts. Primarily engineered by the Belarussian president, Alexander Lukashen ko, the flood of asylum seekers has been widely understood as a transparent effort to destabilize Poland and the EU in general. A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit. In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception . Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act. MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL FEAST FOR THE SPIRIT. Body & Mind massageby HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24 Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace + 48 798 665 www.lomilomi.waw.pl254
8 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Five Minutes With… Swayzee Rock’n’Roll Never Died Born during the pandemic, Warsaw-based SWAYZEE have stormed the live music scene with their raw, uncompromising sound, outrageous stage personas and high-energy gigs. Join us for five minutes with front man and vocalist, Karl Nesser…
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WI: How would you define the sound of SWAYZEE?
S: With our new drummer, Bebun, who beats the crap out of his drums, to me we sound like a heavy vehicle crushing rocks underneath its wheels, or a cowboy riding a horse yelling YEE-HAA! What’s in your name… It’s funny because most people think our name comes from Patrick Swayze – I don’t even like him. When I was a kid, I thought only my grandma would be into a guy like him. Our name actually comes from the Swayzie Express that appeared in the Trailer Park Boys. To quote: “Patrick Swayze has not authorized any use of his name in this program”. Was it your intention to ‘disrupt’ the Polish music scene with your style and sound? There’s plenty of bands that look like us on this planet, and I believe it’s based around that glam-rock look of Ziggy Star dust, The Runaways or Iggy Pop when he was in shiny makeup. It’s exciting that this look and music is having a new lease of life. As for disrupting the music scene, I wouldn’t necessarily say we’ve done that, but we have tried to maybe look a little different – we want the people who watch us to have fun. I want this band to be a sparkle of hope in a country where rock’n’roll bands haven’t had a cool haircut for waaay too long. You sing in English – is there a reason for that? Ha, because we want to win the Eurovision Song Contest like ABBA. Seriously, I am writing
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Sometimes we’ve got kids dancing, other times old timers. I saw a guy who must have been CATCH THEM LIVE Upcoming gigs include the Up To Date festival in Białystok on September 2nd, and at Warsaw’s Palladium on October 1st when they’ll perform as part of the Róbrege festival. For more, see: swayzeeok.bandcamp.com close to a hundred the other day throwing down his walking stick and giving a jig while I sang ‘getting laid, getting alright’! Our bass player, Maciula, has a funky sound that can cure all ailments! We’ve got to ask about your clothes… Rock’n’roll classic! That means black latex and animal prints. My stage style is cartoon Elvis and beautiful Miley Cyrus – I also want to see myself as some thing of an anime character as well. Yello (keyboards) is more of a post-apocalyptic Mad Max while our guitarist, Turbi, wants to harness a young Zakk Wylde. Honestly though, we look like a bunch of scouts compared to the rappers you see with tattooed faces! Tell us a SWAYZEE secret? Believe it or not, we’re all hetero sexual!
Five Minutes With… Swayzee
When we chat with fans they’ll always offer up a different opin ion and I think that’s great as it demonstrate the broadness and diversity of our appeal and sound. Personally though, I like Philadelphia the most. But ask anyone in the band, and they’ll all say something different –just like a classic boy band, we’re all totally different! How do you rate Warsaw’s gig spaces, and why? Like everywhere, the best gigs take place in small, rotten clubs with cheap sound systems. People are close to each other and the stage, and the sound feels more real than in those big profession ally-minded halls. The cheap and dirty places are the most fun – and I don’t need to worry about destroying something precious! In Poland, we having a saying: ‘true friends are met in poverty’. I think that goes some way to explaining why the slicker clubs are actually pretty shitty. Have you ever played to a hostile audience? Our sense of humor is weird, but so far no-one has wanted to kill us and we always have a great connection with a crowd. Thirty years ago that might not have been the case, but things like the LGBT+ movement have helped open minds – certainly in Warsaw. Who knows though what might happen if we ever played in Podkarpacie. That’s the Texas of Poland, and I’d like to think we’d get a Blue Broth ers-style reaction with people smashing bottles! Do you have any concert rituals? I guess drinking a beer whilst putting on make-up and shiny pants is a kind if ritual! You can’t go on stage looking like a person who does the groceries, so I use that time to become my stage persona. It helps with any jitters as well. Secondly, It’s important not to have sex for at least a day before a gig. I need to have my testicles full, be cause that’s where the energy comes from – I’m not kidding. Opera singers do the same, and that’s a fact. What is the SWAYZEE crowd?
10 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 a few songs in Polish right now but let’s face it, rock’n’roll has always sounded better in English. Do you have a definitive song?
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Concerned with more than taste alone, fritz-kola have proved themselves a brand that puts the planet first… BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Meet fritz-kola… Your Conscientious kola For more,
F ounded with the specific aim of creating a better kola, at fritz-kola we don’t just talk about the environment, we’re actually actively doing something for it. Since our very inception we’ve used return able glass bottles, and we’re also constantly expanding our decentralized bottling process. It’s our aim to keep the distance between ‘bottled’ and ‘opened’ as short as possible. Addition ally, we pay close attention to making efficient use of regen erative resources at the bottling stage.Atpresent, our award-winning beverages are bottled in five plants around Germany – to do this, we work with contract bot tlers who otherwise mainly work with mineral water. In future, though, we’re looking to spin this network even tighter in or der to further minimize transport routes.Weuse pool bottles for our 0.33 and 0.5 liter drinks, and these are used by various man ufacturers so can, therefore, be taken to all bottlers. In short, that means that not only does our system of returns make ecolog ical sense, but it also secures jobs in the region as well. see: fritz-kola.com
12 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Book Review
By way of introduction, the author sets a helpful background – with Warsaw still reeling from the impact of the Nazi occupa tion, it is explained that as early as 1945 11,000 trees were planted as part of plans to ‘green up’ the city. In 1949, this was followed by a pledge to provide for 30 sq/m of greenery per capita. Not that this idea was anything new – one picture, for instance, depicts a group of smartly attired citizens in 1935. “We will change the city into a beautiful garden,” declares the placard that they hold. From thereon, the book reels off some of Warsaw’s high lights: its parks, rooftop gardens and riverfront spots. So far, so normal. But then, unexpectedly, this tome veers into the ceme teries, takes us through swamps and explores dunes and moors. We meet the flora and fauna that populate these, and are then introduced to the people that protect them. At this point, the book bursts to life in spectacular fashion. Had you ever heard, for instance, about the Gro chów Kibbutz? Neither had we. Founded in 1919, it was estab lished on a 30 hectare site that had originally been earmarked to serve as the city’s third Jewish cemetery. Instead, it became a training ground of sorts: a place where young Jews could prepare to build their own future home in Palestine.Architects and artists come next, and at this stage one should prepare to come face-to-face with an assortment of eccentrics: who can fail not to fall in love with the strange micro-gardens of Marcin Chomicki, or to raise a smile at the zany works of Maurycy Gomulicki. And after, having digested it all, feel inspired by Kowlaska’s string of neighbor hood walks. It is not just the text that deserves applause, either. This book succeeds thanks to its bal ance – the visuals play a vital part in capturing the spirit of green Warsaw, and here that means a joyous selection of images that run from delicious architectural renderings to archival black and whites via reproduced posters and vintage postcards. Mostly though, it is the photographs that prompt one to pause. Immediate ly, you want to venture outdoors to see everything yourself. Diligently researched, tenderly written and artfully photo graphed, this work breathes new life into Warsaw – a life that has always existed yet perhaps failed to register. Deeply engaging, it has a home on every bookshelf. Zielona Warszawa (Green Warsaw Alternative Guide) is published by Dom Spotkań z Historią and priced at PLN 79. To order, see: ksiegarnia.dsh. waw.pl
I
t is not always easy seeing past the city’s concrete skin – ask visitors and residents alike what Warsaw’s defining color is, and the chances are that battleship grey would top an on-the-spot ranking. However, like many generalizations, this tells not the full story. When penetrated, the Polish capital comes alive in a sea of green, and whilst that’s not al ways obvious, this book is here to lead you by hand to those verdant spots. Titled ‘Green Warsaw Al ternative Guide’, it is exactly that. The work of Agnieszka Kowals ka there is nothing ordinary about this book. Arranged in an easily navigable format, it’s as suited to random nosediving as it is to a more traditional linear approach. Choosing either, readers find themselves plunged into a magi cal world blooming with secrets.
A new guidebook twists Warsaw on its head with its fresh perspective on the city we thought we knew…
Going Green
Reinventing the wheel? GLOV brings innovation to the cosmetic industry once again Does innovation have an expiration date? Apparently not.
BY SUSANNA MICHALEK TO YOU BY indeed space for reinventing the wheel. A quick social me dia search of the #heatless curls hashtag will take you on a trip way back to 2020, when the heatless hair styling trend emerged. From robe belts, to socks, all the way to the 2-rod hair curler that resembles the COOLCURL™ in its form, we have seen it all. Yet GLOV® shows that innovation doesn’t always equal inventing some thing from scratch, it can also be about optimizing a product, starting at R&D and all the way to the ear-catching marketing that the brand is employing. Filled with memory foam and coated with a super-absorbent I t has been over 10 year since GLOV® invented the now icon ic On-The-Go Hydro Cleanser, the only patented mitt that re moves makeup and cleanses skin with water. The brand’s founders, Monika Żochowska and Ewa Dudzic-Filaseta, had a major impact on the emergence of the textile category in skin care, for which they have won countless prestigious business awards but how does a matur ing brand keep innovating in an industry where competition and new products emerge more fre quently than ever? With the launch of their new COOLCURL™ heatless hair curl er, GLOV® proves that there is Follow GLOV® on Instagram and TikTok: @glov.official
warsawinsider.pl 13 technical fabric, the COOL CURL™ promises to be comfort able to sleep in and protect the hair from frizz and breakage. Its launch has been anticipated by thousands of fans across their channels and the product is al ready trending on TikTok with tens of thousands of views to a catchy, Mean Girls-inspired sound which includes the prod uct’s slogan, It’s not a regular Curl, it’s a COOLCURL. So sit back, relax and enjoy this free lesson in innovation from one of the most exciting beauty brands in the industry. Get your own COOLCURL™ on www.glov.co.
BROUGHT
14 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Building SpotlightInMemoriam:Supersam The birthplace of Warsaw’s modern grocery sector, we take a look back at the legendary Supersam – gone but not forgotten!
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W ith Warsaw’s retail landscape now dominated by megabrands such as Biedronka, Auchan and Carrefour, it takes a considerable leap of the imagi nation to picture the manic excitement that marked the opening of the country’s first ‘self-ser vice’ grocery store – but manic it most certainly was. Launched sixty-years ago, Supersam was seen as a pioneering gamechanger in a nation where grocery shopping had, hitherto, involved shouting your shopping list across a counter. Supersam changed that, allow ing visitors to walk down the aisles and fill their bags themselves. Moreover, its sheer choice blew the mind: in a country hobbled by shortages, Supersam could boast ornately arranged pyramids of canned tomatoes, Van Houten cocoa, and exotica such as bananas and lemons.When it opened for business on June 6th, 1962, huge crowds gathered outside – such was the pandemonium, security guards are said to have deserted their posts to hide in the back. As the throngs surged forward, a glass pane cracked under their weight. Reporting on it the following day, some sections of the press referred to it as ‘the siege of Supersam’. But the attractions were numerous – one section of Supersam was reserved for Frykas, a self-service canteen capable of feeding 3,000 people daily. Decorat ed with abstract wall paintings, its specialties included ‘Italian-style spaghetti’. The building though also made waves – located at the center of Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, it was a pearl of modernism and featured a bow-shaped roof that was so experimen tal that it was awarded an honorary prize at the 1965 Sao Paolo Biennale. Of course, this outdated building didn’t stand a chance in Poland’s post-Communist reality. Flattened in 2006, it was swapped out for the 90-meter Plac Unii Designedtower.Stefan Kuryłowicz, the late architect took inspiration from the original plans for this plot. Just prior to the war, the site had been earmarked as the future home of Polish radio and television – the design envisaged the construction of what would have become Europe’s tallest skyscraper. Alas, though the foundations were dug, the German invasion later that year canned the plans for good. Reputedly built to meet the dimensions of this pre-war project, the Plac Unii tower has since flourished as a mixed-use retail and office investment – and, in a nod to the past, there was even a branch of Supersam on the lower levels. In August, however, its closure was announced, thereby drawing a line under the brand’s long-term association with the address.
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Carving a name for his striking presentations of Warsaw’s architecture, we catch up with illustrator and graphic artist Adam Kosik… What inspires you about Warsaw? It’s full of contrasts and un expected combinations – its architectural styles blend seamlessly together and that gives me endless possibilities to interpret the surroundings for the purposes of my art. Your work presents buildings from various periods. Architecturally speaking, do you have a favorite era? Definitely modernism – both the pre-war modernism you’ll find in Warsaw and the post-war modernism of the 50s and 60s. The architecture of that period is characterized by its transpar ency of form and beautiful detail, which I like to use. Your art has made it onto some beautiful posters – what
Art
16 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Poster
Warsawof
TheArt
There’s some wonderful architecture in Poland, but I always find new inspirations in Wrocław, Katowice and Poznań. Any plans for autumn?
warsawinsider.pl 17 do you think makes a good poster? It’s a trinity: simple form, strong color, and a clear message. On the subject of posters, do you have an artistic hero? If I had to choose one, it would be Hubert Hilscher on account of his posters for the Warsaw Autumn Festival – they had everything: a non-obvious mes sage, abstract, beautiful forms and vibrant colors. You were invited by Global worth to contribute to their project, the ‘Gallery of Peculiar Offices’. How exciting was it to be involved in something like this?
I’m preparing several new illustrations ahead of the annual autumn fairs so I’ve got a lot of work to be doing right now!
I started posting my first illus trations on Insta towards the end of my studies. As I grew in confidence I began submitting my work to poster fairs and it’s grown ever since. Which other Polish cities inspire you as an artist?
I was asked to picture the Warsaw Trade Tower which was a great job as I’ve always considered this to be the best skyscraper in the city – I took the order as a good omen! It was a really positive experience as the client gave me a lot of freedom to work and placed a great deal of trust in my artistic intuition. What is your work ‘process’? It’s usually quite similar in that I’ll often start with a short assump tion concerning the atmosphere of an illustration. Then I’ll browse photo albums, archives and even my phone to search for interesting frames and build ings. After selecting a few, it’s a straight forward case of analog sketching, color matching and tablet work. Out of curiosity, what’s your work space like? My studio is my living room desk! I’m lucky that I don’t need a lot of work tools so I can ar range a workspace pretty much anywhere that I choose. When did you first start showing an interest in graphic art and illustration?
18 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 LEGIA INSIDE OUT Commonly known as Poland’s most successful team, the Insider looks into the heart of Legia Warszawa… Warsaw Legend
F ounded in 1916 by soldiers serving on the Eastern Front, Legia are considered one of the grande dames of domestic football with a record 15 league titles to their name and nineteen Polish cups. Forming an inescapable part of life in the city, join us for a visit to this Warsaw institution.
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That much has been underlined by the stadium tours conducted thrice daily throughout the week end. Priced at PLN 35 (PLN 20 for concessions), the 75-minute excursion takes you to the very core of the club, starting aptly inside the Żyleta. Arguably the most famous end in Polish football, it is here that Legia’s most vocal fans gather.
The domestic equivalent of Liverpool’s Kop, it’s best-known for the miracle-working impact it can have on results – with the Żyleta full, the decibel level can reach ear-piercing proportions. Repre senting the spiritual heart of the club, it is an eerie moment to see it empty bar from the gaggle of tourists that comprise our group.
The Tour Completed in 2011, the reconstruction of Legia’s iconic stadium can be viewed as one of the revo lutionary moments that helped haul Polish football into the 21st century. Befitting of the club’s stature, the renovation saw the decrepit ground of yore reinvented as a smart, wraparound facility topped with a sail-like roof.
Led by our guide, Piotr, we are a diverse bunch indeed, yet somehow representative of the broad pulling power that Legia enjoy. “Portuguese tour ists are the biggest group of foreigners we get,” confides Piotr. The first game played in the new look ground saw Legia come out on the wrong end of a seesaw 6-5 friendly contested against Arsenal, but despite the result the match ushered in a new modern era for the club. Exploring the stadium from top-to-bottom, it is extraordinary to see how this stadium has morphed from a crumbling wreck into something that can be described as stateof-the-art: certainly, you appreciate that from the bird’s eye perspective of the press seats at the top. But that becomes even more noticeable on the levels directly below. We view, for instance, the Presidential Suite, an inner sanctum with plush seats and an airy meeting room where VIPs meet and mingle. In the corridors outside, Piotr – who became a regular at Legia nearly sixty-years back – pauses to point out the first known picture of the team, as well as a blown-up photo of Legia’s greatest side. He audibly sighs with fondness as he recalls players such as Kazimierz Deyna and LucjanAfter,Brychczy.wecontinue down, this time to the away changing room. “See that handle there, that was damaged by Cristiano Ronaldo,” says Piotr. The kids in the group gush with excitement. Apparently locking himself away for thirty-minutes in the bath room, Ronaldo’s visit to Legia saw the Portuguese legend break down in tears of frustration. “The oil marks you see in the car park underneath the stand,” adds Piotr, “are referred to by us as ‘Ronal do’sVisitingtears’.”as a tourist is an altogether happier experience, one interspersed by Piotr’s personal anecdotes and memories. Nonetheless, it is enter ing the hallowed pitch area (“Keep off the grass,” we are reminded) that elicits the most fuss. Taking turns to sit in the team dugouts, you can tell that each and everyone one of us is imagining what it must be like to do this for a living – that feeling re peats itself in the echoing room reserved for postmatch press conferences. Like going backstage at a concert, it’s a tour that allows us from the normal world to glimpse into the fantastical world of pro fessional football.
Now firmly enshrined as part of Warsaw’s landscape, the stadium’s revival was a watershed moment – not just for Legia, but Polish football as well – at a time when the domestic game was battling hooliganism, the redevelopment of Legia’s ground helped reinvent football as a sport where all spectators were welcome. Eleven years on, it has lost none of it luster and has, in its own right, become a tourist attraction.
“ When the team pull a goal back with seven minutes left, a new wave of belief surges around the stadium
20 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Warsaw Legend
Matchday Of course, as interesting as the tour is, it does re quire a fertile leap of the imagination to picture just how much the stadium transforms when matchday comes knocking. And this holds true no matter how much football you have coursing through your veins – as universal as football may be, the Polish experience represents something unique. Arriving at Legia, you sense this immediately –and even more so on the occasion of a big match, like, for instance, August’s clash against Legia’s historic Silesian foes, Górnik Zabrze. Converging on the ground like an army of ants, one is carried towards the stadium in a sea of pristine white jerseys. Filing almost reverentially past the statue of Kazimierz Deyna – one of the club’s defining heroes – the pre-match buzz is intoxicating and the air thick with pent-up tension. With kick-off still over half an hour away, already you can hear the hardcore warming up their vocal chords from inside the ground. Unlike Germany and England, Polish football lacks a specific pre-match drinking culture, but even so drinking options do exist: for the seminal Legia experience, join the more exuberant fans and assemble first in Źródełko, a sweaty, steamy timber cabin, before swarming past the colorful fan artwork that adorns the concrete pillars of Trasa Łazienkowska. With your destination reached, stop in for one more pint at Legia’s own official bar below the Żyleta. Set next to a club shop dealing out the requi site scarves and mugs, this sports bar has a slick, polished look far removed from the other neighbor hood meeting spots. Even so, the atmosphere is charged and leaves no doubt as to the size of this match.Yetit is inside the ground that this becomes truly apparent. Whether you enjoy football or not, it is impossible not to be stirred upon hearing the traditional pre-game rendition of Sen o Warszawie A classic 60s anthem from the pen of Czesław Nie men (a.k.a. ‘the Polish Bob Dylan’), this epic ode to Warsaw is steeped in sentimentality. Lustily recited before each Legia home game, seeing the crowd rise as one before belting it out word-for-word is an exhilarating sight that sends tingles down the spine. This, though, is just a prelude – an opening war cry that sets the tone for the match up ahead. You see, no matter how the team might be faring, the backing delivered by Legia’s faithful never falls short of being thunderously ferocious. Tonight, however, the game has been lent added signifi cance, falling as it does on a landmark birthday. Speaking to supporters beforehand, we are told
The Extra Level Despite its volatile reputation abroad, Polish football is now a non-hazardous pursuit. Inside the stadiums, at this level at least, crowd trouble has been reduced to a rare phenomenon, yet unlike in England, this has not come at a cost to the atmosphere – in essence, wherever you choose to sit at Legia, safety feels assured: the biggest risk you run is going temporarily deaf. Yet to enjoy it to the max, consider shelling out on a hospitality package – coming in two bands, silver and gold, this pair of executive lounges offer the best seats in the house, a top class buffet and free flow alcohol inside glossy, modern spaces. Were it not for the emerald colored pitch directly outside, you could easily think you were brunching at Flaming & Co. Attracting a dapper-look ing crowd, our past forays into this rarefied world have been nothing short of memorable and acted as a confident affirmation that Legia have embraced the world of modern football. Depending on the opposition, tickets for this higher class of experience begin at PLN 450 and come highly recommended.
that today’s date marks the 18th anniversary game of one of their ringleaders. To honor this, a volley of fireworks are unleashed on kick-off and are swiftly followed by a salute of burning flares. With Zabrze’s own boisterous following entering the ground on around the 10-minute mark, the atmosphere ratchets up to impossible new levels. Often leaving UEFA (as well as Polish football’s own controlling authority, the PZPN) red-faced and raging, Legia’s fans are not averse to presenting stunning banner drops and ‘tifo’ displays and for this match, their awareness of current affairs is demonstrated by a humorous banner poking fun at the visitors and the Odra River crisis – immediately, it is followed by billowing green smoke bombs that add to the general sense of spectacle. Not to be outdone, Zabrze, too, reveal their own banner in the second-half and pair it with a flash of pyrotechnics. As theater goes, it is exceptional entertainment, and despite trailing 2-0 never does Legia’s support show signs of waning. When the team pull a goal back with seven minutes left, a new wave of belief surges around the stadium. Entering injury time, the equalizer that comes feels almost expected – instantly, this seething cauldron explodes, tem porarily turning the ground into the world’s largest bouncy castle. Enough to induce a migraine, the volume is astonishing. So, too is the experience. Whilst the attendance has been given as 23,000, for ‘real feel’ it would help to add a zero. Breathless in its excitement, it has been an evening to cherish – one that leaves no doubt as to the extraordinary passion that this club arouses.
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Take A Street: Chłodna Split Personality A microcosm of Wola, and a place of complex contrasts, join us for a look at Chłodna’s many faces… PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA ARCHIVAL PHOTOGRAPHS NAC
Take a Street: Chłodna
W hereas most streets the world over have a beginning and an end, Chłodna is an anomaly. If you’re searching for No. 1, it’s found not at the top of the street, but actually a little way up. The bottom, that’s reserved for No. 3, a fire station housed on a plot first used as a barracks by the Crown’s Horse Guards. Subsequently rebuilt, in the 19th century it was turned over to the fire brigade and here they remain to this very day – what does not, is a lighthouse-style observation point that was demolished immediate ly after the war. Though the fire station is logically off-limits, one of its buildings houses the aptly named Ogień i Woda restaurant (Fire & Water). Curiously, former Python Michael Palin dined here during his tour of ‘New Europe’ in the noughties. “It’s decorated in a butch bordello style, with lacy tablecloths, fire men’s helmets and brass instruments,” he later wrote. More’s the pity, it’s been updated since. But Chłodna’s biggest wow possibly comes next: the Church of St. Charles Boromaeus was reputedly modelled on the Roman basilica of Santa Maria Mag giore, and it sits on a triangular wedge of land planted between Chłodna and Elektoralna. Outside, its niches are decorated with saintly figures (not all of whom Photographs clockwise from above: No. 3, a fire station housed on a plot first used as a barracks by the Crown’s Horse Guards. Church of St. Charles Boromaeus, now and 1945-56.
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warsawinsider.pl 25 have the required complement of heads), whereas inside it’s a feast of pillars and imported oil paintings. Step back outside and you’ll come face-to-face with a figure of Mary. At its base find a portrait photo of Jerzy Popieluszki, the Solidarity priest who dared speak out against Communism. Murdered by the security services in 1984, his death sparked outrage and further united the country against the system. Over a quarter of a million people attended his
Urban tombstones; concrete dominoes; mammoth wardrobes; and stray blocks of Tetris – the dismal oblong buildings that comprise the Żelazna Brama estate have been called all of these and worse. Com posed of nineteen 15-storey high rise apartments built between 1965 and 1972, they cover a cool 63 hectares, with three of these directly looking down on Chłodna. Such are their dehumanizing dimen sions, it actually feels like a whole lot more.
26 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 funeral. Although this was not his parish, he lived overlooking the church at Chłodna 15 in one of the towering brutes that line the road.
Take a Street: Chłodna
And the not so dainty hand of Communism is further in evidence on the other side of the Żelazna Brama. Facing, find a set of Socialist Realist blocks framing one side of the street. Delivering an imper sonation of Poland’s Renaissance period, the shaded colonnades make for an atmospheric Insta update no matter the time of day. But without question, it’s at dusk that this slice of Chłodna stirs to life. Though heavily damaged by the lockdowns, the café scene here has an interesting buzz that feels far more local than the more upmarket options offered at the nearbyHelpingBrowary.theatmosphere is the scenery – out in front, find a redeveloped urban park that, quite creepily, once served as an ad hoc cemetery during the Warsaw Uprising. Running the other side of this, pre-war tramlines cut through the cobbles. Once considered the principal thoroughfare leading out west, Chopin is said to have travelled down this very street as he made his final journey out of Warsaw.
Photographs clockwise from above: ul. Chłodna 20 , 1971 and now. Bridge connecting north and south ghetto, 1942 and monument symbolizing the bridge, 2022.
Yet as barbarous as they may appear, these housing blocks are one of the best examples of the post-war effort to mold the socialist man through his environment. Housing over a 1,000 people each, and built using the same construction methods applied to military bunkers, these monotonous monoliths suffered from a lack of public funding – original plans for rooftop gardens, cafes and balconies were shelved, and at one stage it is said that authorities even discussed installing communal bathrooms at the end of each floor. Alternatively known by some as Little Vietnam, this lesser-used nickname springs from the high headcount of Asians that settled in these blocks during Warsaw’s Communist era Vietnamese influx. If nothing else, these blocks don’t half look good acting as hip hop video backdrops.
It goes without saying, he would have been horri fied by some of the developments. So ugly as to stop you in your tracks, the Baptist church is a bewilder ing example of post-war brutalism. Billy Graham preached here in 1978, though unbeknownst to his largely non-English speaking audience, declassified documents show that the translations of his speech es were purposefully altered so as not to stir up any anti-government feeling. As a street, Chłodna is not short of ‘beauty and the beast’ moments, and the monstrosity of the church is offset by the so-called House Under the Clock that stands opposite. Erected in 1913, it later served as the seat of the Jewish council (Judenrat) during the Ghetto years. Headed by Adam Czer niaków, he lived on the first floor and ultimately chose suicide rather than collude with the Nazis. Despite losing its top two-floors during the Warsaw Uprising, what survives looks stunning following a meticulous refit. On the virgin white façade, find a heap of adornments such as gurning faces and statuettes of children.
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In continuance of the Jewish theme above, it cannot be said otherwise, Chłodna played a critical
In contrast, the Czerwony Wieprz restaurant has no such problems and demands a visit for no other reason than being home to the country’s greatest gastronomic lie! Spun in good humor, the restau rant’s PR bluff claims this locale was once frequent ed by Lenin and Castro, and though this is little more than a jokey bit of marketing, you’ll be amazed at how many people they’ve fooled. Namechecked by the New York Times as one of the ‘ten reasons to visit Warsaw’, past guests that have actually dined here include Bruce Willis, John Malkovich, Karim Benzema and tennis ace Agnieszka Radwanska. Always, this place is a great option for a night of vodka-fueled jollies. Yet for the street’s most iconic address, look no further than Chłodna 25; built in 1938 to a design by Edward Herstein, it’s a sweeping example of pre-war modernism – featuring a curved corner and intricate metalwork on the balconies, its elegance
Photographs clockwise from above: Czerwony Wieprz restaurant, Keret House, Żelazna - view from ul. Ogro dowa towards ul. Chłodna, 1964 and 2022.
Take a Street: Chłodna
And on the subject of things that don’t work, then keep your eyes peeled for the Keret House (Żelazna 74 but entered from Chłodna behind). Unveiled ten years back, the world’s thinnest house caused an international storm when it was originally revealed. Explaining the thinking behind it, Jakub Szczęsny tells the Insider: “I saw a gap between a pre-war tenement and a 70s co-op block and thought it was a fantastic representation of the Frankenstein nature of Warsaw. Well, I wanted to fill that space, to make those two buildings communicate and relate to each other. How? By adding life to that gap.”
28 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 part in one of the darkest chapters of the city’s story. Spliced into two, a ‘big Ghetto’ and a ‘small Ghetto’, the two were linked with an overhead bridge at the intersection with Żelazna. Today this is commem orated by pavement markings showing both the Ghetto boundaries and the position of the steps, as well as a set of steel masts symbolizing the bridge. Underneath, a set of peepholes have been installed showing wartime scenes – occasionally they work.
Measuring 92-centimeters at its narrowest point, and looking more like an upturned steel tube, it was named the Keret House in honor of Israeli author Etgar Keret – its first ‘resident’. Alas, plans to turn it into an artist’s retreat for visiting creative fell flat due to building regulations, and while it occasionally opens to the public today this extraordinary build ing largely sits empty and overlooked.
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30 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 is undisputed. So too, is its role in history. During the war, it was home to a German police station. Captured by insurgents on the third day of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, the heaps of flowers left outside remind of this action. For another generation, though, it will be forever associated as the home of the Chłodna 25 café-bar. Pre-dating ‘the hipster revolution’ by several years, it was among the first locales to court the city’s art-minded fringe. Now defunct, peering through the windows is a sad, cobwebbed trip down memory lane. Speaking of art, bang opposite find one of War saw’s earliest XL murals. Created over the course of four-days in 2011 (we sat outside and watched), Lungful was painted by a Venezuelan-born German artist going under the name of SatOne. Depicting a pair of lungs, find one half poisoned by smog and city pollution and the other looking clean and green.Although the ensuing stretch of this street is by far its most quiet, it does reward both architectur ally and artistically. For example, consider the town house at No. 27. Built in 1830, it's standout feature is a drive-through entrance for horse carriages. Further up, the derelict Winosfera building was once home to Kino Czary, a much-loved cinema that found itself mentioned in Leopold Tyrmand’s defining work Zly. According to some, it’s the oldest surviving building on the street. Then, at No. 41, you have a greying tenement that’s been resistant to gentrification. Featuring a Ghetto information board clasped to its façade, it’s a smeared blowback to the past that feels hauntingly authentic given its grim, grey colors and unkempt appearance.
Photographs clockwise from above: Lungful mural, town house at No. 27, cinema "Czary" at ul. Chłodna 31, Swanski’s sharks at No. 47
Later, a row of pavilions were built, and these found their character formed in the post-commie years. In this modest line of units, one found a smorgasbord of ill-matching, sleazy enterprises: shops selling oily engine parts, a ring-the-bell gay leather bar, Vietnamese joints with backroom gam bling dens, stores selling M-Cat and Spice, brothels
Take a Street: Chłodna
Perhaps, however, we’re getting ahead of ourselves because never can this Insider pass the pavilions that come before without affording a nostalgic smile. After the war, amid the rubble of the Ghetto, this part of the street was known for its Wild West happenings – it was a place where gangland feuds were settled with switchblades and pistols.
warsawinsider.pl 31 and sketchy taxi HQs. Largely flattened last year, to day some units have survived – fenced off, boarded up, and covered in graffiti squiggles, they pay silent testament to the area’s gritty past. The quirky wall scrawls are not the only art to see, either. With so much junk heaped around, it’s easy to miss Swanski’s sharks at No. 47. Painted on the occasion of World Ocean Day, the mural was de signed to draw attention to the dangers of over-fish ing. Then, further up, seek out Chłodna 56/60 for a cheerful commemoration of what once stood nearby – known as Kometa Kino, this pre-war cinema was celebrated as among the largest in the country. Holding 1,500 people, it was equally notable for its castle-style turrets. Severely damaged during the war, it was later bulldozed entirely. Ripe for redevelopment, this final chunk of Chłodna feels at odds with the rest – still filled with patches of wasteland, these pair awkwardly against the skyscrapers beyond… and, most dramatically, shiver in the shadow of the Warsaw Trade Tower.
Known as Wola’s original skyscraper, this 208-meter behemoth provides the defining contrast on this complex street of contradictions.
INSIDER'S GUIDE For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw COMMUNITYlegends…HUBS&FOODHALLS 32 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022
BROWARYWARSZAWSKIE ul. Grzybowska browarywarszawskie.com.pl60, Occupying a revamped 19th century, the Browary complex feels more like a district within a district with its revitalized historic buildings rubbing alongside upmarket new build. The food hall is the most pre mium in its category, though the sunken outdoor plaza is the place to be this summer. Don’t miss their flagship brewpub!
POWIŚLEELEKTROWNIA ul. Dobra elektrowniapowisle.com42, A former power plant, this remarkable regeneration project has kept hold of many industrial keepsakes such as the panel that once controlled the electricity flow to the Palace of Culture. A wonder to explore, highlights include a retail offer angled towards hip Polish design firms as well as international brands otherwise unseen in Poland (that means you, Urban Outfitters). FOOD & DRINK Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca and ably supported by standalone restaurant projects scattered elsewhere: in terms of highlights, that means ace Tex Mex from the Blue Cactus and light bites at the design-minded Dock 19. Cactus warsawinsider.pl 33 Dock 19
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SAVE THE DATE! Running between September 24th and 26th (then returning the following weekend), head to EP for their super-fun take on Munich’s Oktoberfest. Fea turing beer straight from the Munich Hofbräu, attractions include the Silesian Tyrol Band and Bavarian delicacies.
INSIDER GUIDE COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS NORBLIN FACTORY ul. Żelazna fabrykanorblina.pl51/53, Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Aside from Warsaw’s largest food hall, find museums (one dedicated to the factory space, another to Ap ple products – the tech brand not the fruit!), the luxury Kinogram cinema, the Bio Bazar farmers’ market and a diverse choice of bars and drink spots. HALA KOSZYKI ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Hala Koszyki changed War saw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it trans formed Warsaw’s gastro scene and continues to be seen as the benchmark when it comes to such culinary concepts. FOOD & DRINK Street food units frame the area around the Central Bar, as do a spread of restaurants that in clude the upmarket Sen and the open-all-hours CMA – but the biggest pull during these last days of summer is the outdoor plaza: it’s one of the city’s most popular meeting points. 34 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 WHAT’S NEW Debuting in August, and running until December, visitors to the mezzanine have the chance to view a film about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising using VR technology. Taking you right into the action, screenings are free and take place between noon and 7 p.m. during the working week.
warsawinsider.pl 35 PZO FOOD HALL ul. Grochowska 317, fabrykapzo.pl Warsaw’s latest food hub brings together six street food operators and a coffee point and bar inside a painstakingly designed space that falls back on every recent fad found in restaurant design. Highlights include mission burritos from MariC ruz – enjoy your food haul inside or on the vast terrace outside. HALA GWARDII Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl For many, this is the most ‘au thentic’ of Warsaw’s hubs, some thing rooted in a design that has seen renovations limited so as to maintain the historical integrity of this Tsarist-era structure. Note: open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. FOOD On one side, a farmers’ market flourishes with fresh produce and artisanal goods a forte. Segregated by a communal seating plan in the center, the rest has seen the floorplan lined with street food units of high reputation. TIPPLES! Order up drinks from the Niewin ność wine bar or beers from the lively San Escobar. Craft nerds should visit the pocket-sized Piwna Gwardii to guarantee a hazy night.
INSIDER GUIDE COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER Pl. Konesera 2, koneser.eu Set in the revitalized space of a former vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended moder nity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. Highlights num ber the Polish Vodka Museum and the upmarket Syreni Śpiew bar-club. NOCNY MARKET ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna) Set on a disheveled, disused train platform, the Nocny Mar ket announces itself via a sea of neon lights. A place of noise and clamor, it’s impossible not to feel hooked on the energy that abounds – visit from Thursday through till Sunday. Hit it now, for traditionally their season concludes with the end of September. FOOD Underpinning it all, the food is a draw, with the stalls and units offering a wide range of street food. Though the line-up is subject to change, more established highlights include Vietnamese baguettes from Miss Banh Mi, skewered meats from Brasil on the Plate and vegan burritos from Momencik. OTHER BITS More than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, head here to stock up on wacky socks from Kabak or, even, to get yourself tattooed in public at the pop-up stand at the end. 36 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2022 ANCZOK-PONIATOWSKANATALIALEFTPHOTOGRAPH
WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring! For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl BUZZ
warsawinsider.pl 39 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE Through the forest of plants lies a hot Praga secret…DEMARIAKEVINBYPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPH
40 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Review FACEBOOKPAGEOPPOSITEDEMARIA,KEVINBYPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPHS
W hen comesit ation,regenerPraga’stoitis traditionally Ząbkowska street that holds the headlines – which is quite natural given the impact that its Koneser development has had on the district. But the story does not terminate at the end of this street, and it is arguably Okrzei where the real revolution has happened. After all, it is here that vast gated com pounds have sprung up, and it is here where legendary tene ments such as the neo-Gothic Pod Sowami have been revived anew.Alittle more silently, it is also here where a small clutch of venues have quietly gone about revolutionizing the area’s food and drink scene – places like Bota. Almost serving to define the modern Warsaw restaurant, its look alone stops you dead in your tracks – first walking the wooden deck, enter inside to find an interior that could double for a rain forest. A place of soft grey colors and rough-hewn wooden shelving, every inch has been packed with leafy succulents. The design extends little beyond that, but it doesn’t need to – as a statement, it’s quite glorious to look at. Onto the food, and that’s so pornographic as to deserve an XXX rating: inch thick, buttery challah bread arrives speared with a knife and leaking with greens, pulled beef rib, pak choi and a lightly spiced coleslaw; fluffy bao buns lan in bamboo steamers; and chips that are devoured along with the sea of kimchi with which they are served. It’s food for a lazy Sunday, whether it be one spent with the kids or on your own nursing a juddering hangover. Either way, it’s simple food that improves your mood and heals theSure,world.you could argue that the prices are a little inflated, but doing so would ignore the reality around us – show us a place that hasn’t been forced to raise their prices. The bottom line is, Bota take the seriousness out of dining to make it exactly what it should be – a happy experience that rounds out the day. Bota Food & Friends ul. Okrzei 11, botarestauracjafb.com/
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The size of a shoebox, it’s little won der that Winna Stacja (Waleczynch 61) has slipped a little under-the-radar – at least outside Saska Kępa. In its immediate catchment area, though, it’s caused a stir since opening in August on account of its magical neighborly atmosphere. Functioning as a wine store and bar, make your purchase before enjoying dusk settle on the pitted pavement outside. Though there’s little to sing about aesthetically, there’s something about it that feels welcoming and a little secretive. MAKE IT TWO Already established as one of War saw’s favorite sources of zany but sophisticated cocktails, as well as NYC-style pizza and Chinese food, Reginabar have spread their wings to add a new addy to their portfolio. Set in the super-cool Mysia 3 depart ment store, we’re told to expect wonton dumplings, pizza squares, and more Insta-friendly cocktails. Again, here’s another place we’ve got penciled down for an imminent visit.
Long associated with Dos Tacos, Mexican chef n has finally flown the coop to create a restaurant entirely of her own making. Situated on leafy Radna, previews of Santa Catrina (ul. Radna 14) promise a cheerful and airy bi-level space decorated with strings of flowers and calavera skulls. With Balderas, however, it’s all about the food – deliciously authentic, and unafraid to raise the spice levels when needed, this chef serves almost an ambassadorial role for Mexican cuisine. Full report next issue.
LOCAL HERO
¡VIVA MÉXICO!
What’s hot, what’s not and what’s happening around town…
exhilarates on
Featuring a staggering 18,000 cans in its design, Tuna every level…
Instead, 18,000 tuna cans sheathe the walls. Painstak ingly placed one-by-one, the effect purposefully brings to mind the scales of a fish, whilst simultaneously spotlighting the restaurant’s zero waste ethos. As elegant and refined as it feels, there’s a casual confi dence at play and this is boldly marked by the square bar that takes the central stage. With bar-top dining still a rarity in Warsaw, this alone is quite a statement to make. “We want to show people that to eat good food you don’t always need to sit at a table,” says Martin. Smartly appointed in dark
42 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Review DEMARIAKEVINBYPHOTOGRAPHS YES YOU CAN!
GPS LOCATOR Located within shouting distance of the river, Tuna’s convenient coordinates do not automatically mean it’s easy to find – actually entered from Tamka, find it positioned down a discreet little path that’s easy to miss. Many end up circling the building once before realizing the error of their ways. Still, this ‘in the know’ vibe acts in its favor. Though found in the trendiest wedge of Powiśle, its inward-looking location gives Tuna the feel of a ‘destination’ restaurant. GOOD LOOKING? Yes, it most certainly is. For that, much credit goes to Medusa Group, a design studio whose previous projects have included Hala Koszyki and Warsaw’s Nobu Hotel. Working in tandem with co-owners Martin and David, the final look is nothing but a triumph of creativity. “We could have just filled the place with beautiful pictures of fish,” says David, “but that’s been done before.”
A DYNAMIC DUO Though Castro’s name looms over the door, this is by no means a one-man show. Jointly created with his long-time friend, David Racchi, the latter’s impact has also been copious. A branding and design expert, his CV includes the joint realization of the Nobu Hotel’s wayfinding system, the hotel branding of The Bridge in Wrocław (this In sider’s stay of choice when vis iting the city), and the creation of the visual identity of the F&B options in the Raffles Europe jski. It is his eye for detail and knowledge of what constitutes bleeding-edge that has given Tuna its final sense of ‘woomph’.
WHO’S COOKING? Martin Gimenez Castro, an Ar gentinean chef who first rose to the public’s notice after winning the inaugural season of Top Chef Polska in 2013. Profession ally, much has changed since this triumph. First, there was a stint at the head of Salto, a hotel restaurant that competed with the best during Warsaw’s brief mania for fine dining. Striking out on his own, he then launched Ceviche Bar, a place that saw Castro showcase his South American upbringing to stunning effect – having survived the Covid shutdowns, it continues to flourish as one of Poland’s most exhilarating ethnic restaurants. It's stunning consistency, however, has proved a dou ble-edged sword. “When you’ve got such a good team behind you,” admits Martin, “you don’t always need to be there.” The time had come for a new chal lenge. “As a chef you’re always on the lookout to create some thing new, and I’d been thinking of opening a fish restaurant for quite some time,” he says. “At the top of my mind though, I wanted it to do something differ ent with this core ingredient.”
metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic, and the look is rounded out by the presence of an open kitchen and display cases of fish.
warsawinsider.pl 43 Tuna Elektryczna 2, tuna-restaurant.pl
ON THE PLATE Much like thieves in a bank, the Insider likes to adopt a “give us everything you’ve got” attitude when visiting restaurants – for this reason, our table soon resembles an A-Z of marine biology. And a tasty one at that. Where once fish was a prob lematic ingredient to source, nowadays supply lines ensure that you can enjoy such dishes
FINAL WORD An ecstasy of tastes, Tuna succeeds in reimagining ev erything you thought you knew about eating fish. Creative but never silly, this restaurant is a heartfelt celebration of seafood, one that pushes boundaries without ever doing so just for the sake of it. That this is done in such an intelligently designed space speaks much for the clear-headed concept that binds it altogether. In a nutshell (or should that be seashell), this is what excellence looks and tastes like.
44 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Review as bluefin tuna just hours after it was caught off the coast of Spain. “I would not have opened a fish restaurant if I did not have full confidence in the product,” says Martin. “Being a chef, you want to envy the customer and that’s exactly how I feel here when I’m cooking in the Youkitchen.”understand where he’s coming from. At Tuna, you will find classics such as Gillardeau No. 2 oysters served on ice, or premium Antonius five star Siberian caviar, but the true thrill lies in exploring the chef’s more unexpected flights of fancy: at PLN 85, the ‘fish platter’ is a su preme example, presenting as it does tuna sausages, corvina mortadella and salmon jerky. Marinated for two days before being slow-dried, the latter is particularly sublime. Eyebrows are again approvingly raised with the tuna ‘nduja (PLN 22) – spicy but not overwhelm ingly so, the kick is just enough to act as a pleasing surprise; elsewhere, tuna tartare (PLN 60-80) is everything you want it to be and a little bit more. Of the top sellers, its easy to understand why the chili con tuna (PLN 55) has been such a hit. And then, there’s the piece de resistance, an elaborately constructed dorada tail (PLN 42) whose meat has been first removed and minced before being returned inside a crispy black tempura. Even the pickled kohlrabi that accompanies it merits a round of applause.
Of“the top sellers, its easy to understand why the chili con tuna has been such a hit
HOODNEIGHBOR-HERO Anons do Dzielni have become the not-so-local secret that Warsaw’s learned to love… T he name translates to something along the lines of ‘notice to the neigh borhood’, but in the case of Anons it's more than just the locals that have sat up to pay attention. Specializing in ‘little plates’ of revised Polish classics, this charming brick-lined recess has the kind of wel coming warmth you’d expect from a place of its size – a family of hamsters would find it small, so do book ahead or otherwise there’s little chance you’ll snag a seat. Your foresight will reward you with a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity. The cooking here sings of care and freshness, and it becomes a pleasure to pick your way through a seasonal menu of homespun tastes. The beef cheeks are exceptional, but we’ve also taken great joy in balls of black pudding with panko and apple sauce, delicious potato babka and broad beans served with kluski (mushy dumplings). A familial sort of place, this is the gastro equivalent of a hug between friends. Anons do Dzielni ul. Madalińskiego 7
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J ust to think, when Norblin and Browary opened last year within months of each other, there were those that asked if Warsaw was big enough for the pair to thrive – but thrive they have. But if the signs were positive before, it was this summer that saw them both truly raise their game to show the depth of their potential. Doing the impossible, that each managed to draw custom away from the riverfront spoke volumes alone. For that, credit must go to the intelligent selection of evening options, and of these it is Uwaga that has emerged as possibly our favorite.
46 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Review DEMARIAKEVINBYPHOTOGRAPHS ATTENTION PLEASE!
Uwaga offer a fresh take on the craft scene… Set at the front of this re vamped factory complex, find Uwaga planted behind immacu late, virginal white walls of what could easily be mistaken for a London-style mews house. Illu minated by a string of overhead lights, and not short of potted plants, the outside terrace has proved one of the hits of the summer, and has benefited itself from its proximity to its neighbors. With Norblin’s fan tastic Piano Bar just steps away, the pair bounce off each other well – and that’s especially true whenever there’s an outdoor concert.Butwhilst its natural to gravitate towards this al fresco strip, Uwaga’s design has got
Decorated“ with bits of machinery, and featuring a more uniform color palette, a side room offers more privacy us counting the days till crueler seasons hit. Entered under a funky, photogenic neon, guests cross a flagstone floor before en tering the bar area – windowless it might be, but it immediately engages through the warmth of itsWarsawvibe. has over 40 designat ed craft beer pubs, but let’s be brutal, most are severely limited in their overall design (with the majority owned by bearded guys who look like they sleep under Superman duvets, that’s hardly a surprise). Then you have Uwaga. Straight away, it’s a place that draws the eye with an interior that makes use of carpen ter-style workbenches and plush, comfortable seats in eclectic clashing colors – windowless it might be, but it feels warm and sociable, something amplified by the modest use of raw brick and steelDecoratedlights. with bits of machin ery, and featuring a more uniform color palette, a side room offers more privacy. Mostly, though, Uwaga succeeds because it feels like a standalone pub. When inside, never do you feel that you are in one of Warsaw’s major hubs – instead, it feels personal. As for the drinks, there’s little we can say other than that they hit the spot. As devoted followers of Poland’s craft revolution, this place does a pretty grand job of representing the cutting edge breweries that have transformed the country – and cost-wise, the price tags aren’t bad at all. Ranging from around PLN 15 to PLN 22 per pint, it’s all surprising ly reasonable given the upmarket nature of Norblin – if Uwaga means attention, then this place has got it… and for all the right reasons.
warsawinsider.pl 47 Uwaga Piwo Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory), fb.com/uwagapiwo
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48 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 their original address on Wilcza.
DOBRE MATERIA ul. Nowolipki 13 Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.
CAFÉ VINTAGE KOLEKTYW Al. Waszyngtona 30/36 Doubling as a vintage furniture shop, find every surface decked out with retro discoveries that can be yours for a song: from Marilyn clocks to rotary dial phones to that Virgin Mary table lamp that you’ve always secretly coveted. And that’s before you cast your eyes on the Jetson period chairs; novelty teapots; antique treasure chest; and S&M themed tableware. The drinks are equally unorthodox and include non-alcoholic wines, kombuchas, homemade lemonades, alternative colas and a strong range of
Coffee Scene
Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s a handpicked selection of tried and tested faves… Cophi ul. Hoża 58/60
FILTRY DOBRA KAWA ul. Elektoralna 11 Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3ForumBorn with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool specialty coffee. COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42) Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored cobbled prewar Próżna street. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check
The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room! Summer sips include rose matcha tonic, Aperol espresso, and a nitro that’s to die for.
FAT WHITE ul. Andersa 6 Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. The cold brew rates as our summer favorite!
NIGHT TO REMEMBER CAFÉ VINTAGE KOLEKTYW Al. Waszyngtona 30/36
Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.
RELAKS ul. Puławska 48 An evergreen institution, the spe cialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.
Doubling as a vintage furniture shop, find every surface decked out with retro discoveries that can be yours for a song: from Marilyn clocks to rotary dial phones to that Virgin Mary table lamp that you’ve always secretly coveted. And that’s before you cast your eyes on the Jetson period chairs; novelty teapots; antique treasure chest; and S&M themed tableware. The drinks are equally unorthodox and include non-alcoholic wines, kombuchas, homemade lemonades, alternative colas and a strong range of specialty coffee.
PO DRODZE ul. Bagatela 11 Set over two rooms inside a beautifully renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, head to the back to discover the real soul of this cafe. Decorated in a soothingly Scan di-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber and splashes of art: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit. As for the coffee, they work real magic with Ethiopian beans in particular.
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HAŁAS ul. Elsterska 10 Divide Hałas into three sections: first, a tiny garden area with a couple of park benches; then, downstairs, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Finally, at the back, discover a Nor dic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. It’s a beauty.
ROŚLINA ul. Schroegera 80 Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoe string budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.
STOR ul. Tamka 33 Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.
RELAX NA WILCZEJ ul. Wilcza 17 An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.
ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ ul. Smolna 4 A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.
SYRENA IRENA ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6
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chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.
Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.
Brzeska 29/31Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best.
PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE ul. Puławska 104/106
POLANA SMAKÓW ul. E. Plater 14 Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few
Best Of… Poland
To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…
The Farm ul. Mokotowska 8
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better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul.
The retro-minded interior is awash with ceramic mosaics, spherical sconces, funky neon, terrazzo tabletops and bold blue colors. A witty homage to the classic eateries of old, it’s fun just to look at. But the food is equally enjoyable with the principal draw being pierogi featuring such fillings as sweet cheese and orange peel.
The specialty here are pyzy, home made dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a BEZ GWIAZDEK ul. Wiślana 8 Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!
ŹRÓDŁO ul. Targowa 81 The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of con temporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well.
LEONARDO VERDE ul. Poznańska 13 Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.
Boca Boca - Vegan Guilty Pleasure ul. Kopernika 25
VEGAN RAMEN SHOP Finlandzka 12 We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re defi nitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks. Also in Muranów (Jana Pawła II 52/54) and Mokotów (Kazimierzowska 43), though for us nothing beats the original!
Reflecting Warsaw’s dynamic, modern spirit, the city is officially regarded as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet – we need a telephone book to list all the worthwhile restaurants, so instead make do with a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…
PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS ul. Mokotowska 58 Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.
The Vegan Scene
The chef worked the stove at Tel Aviv for many years, so you’re in good hands that know the meaning of versatility – they’re also behind the creation of the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots, onions and red cabbage. As for dessert, check the brownie – topped with whipped cream and caramelized popcorn, it’s arguably the best vegan dessert we’ve ever held in our mouths. The big star, however, is the chimichanga.
UKI GREEN ul. Koszykowa 49A Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.
LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO ul. Krucza 23/31 Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. MOMENCIK ul. Poznańska 16 You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.
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CYBERMACHINA WARSZAWA ul. Nowy Świat 54/56 This gaming bar is strange in every respect: among other decorations discover glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks and a toilet evoking Game of Thrones. Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to mimic a 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum!
Beirut & Kraken ul. Poznańska 12
Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.
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FOTON ul. Wilcza 9A You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is nat ural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, but it makes this list for a super cool design that’s involves plenty of raw materials and a vast green fleet of tumbling plants – keeping them alive is a quite brilliant irrigational contraption set around the steel frames that support it all. It sure is a quite a sight and one that gets more pronounced the later it gets.
Bars & Nightlife
From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…
Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-look ing den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip interna tional crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman.
BROWAR WARSZAWSKI ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassur ingly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial BAR PACYFIK ul. Hoża 61
aesthetic, but this softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!
LEGENDS ul. Emilii Plater 25 Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.
Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.
Warning: cards only!
NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’ Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26. For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.
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RITUAL ul. Mazowiecka 12
NIGHT TO REMEMBER
PLAN B ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela) Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER Pl. Konesera 4 This the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country.
PIANO BAR ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory) Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are well-tuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte.
PARDON TO TU Al. Armii Ludowej 14 Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musi cians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!
W OPARACH ABSURDU ul. Ząbkowska 6 Somewhere, buried deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. With craft beer balanced in one hand, and six vodkas on a saucer in the other, you then need all the luck in the world to bulldoze through the scrum that has gathered to listen to Balkan rockers, Afro-Latin bands and the spectacularly named Bum Bum Orchestra. WOZOWNIA Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the courtyard. As for drinks, there’s some classic summer cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-year-old carriage house at the end.
BROWAR WARSZAWSKI ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beau tiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England.
FRANK ul. Grzybowska 43A Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots,
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BIBENDA ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with
BUTCHERY & WINE ul. Żurawia 22 When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.
Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw… Klonn ul. Jazdów 1B
54 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. In summer, the courtyard is a must.
Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.
DZIURKA OD KLUCZA Fort Służew 1B Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.
Best Of… Europe
MIĘSNY ul. Walecznych 64 To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the best informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. A primal joy, do your feasting inside a white-tiled interior or on the terrace that sprawls out in front.
MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI Londyńska 16 Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family. RUSIKO Al. Ujazdowskie 22 To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turke stanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.
MUNJA ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie) Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.
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LE BRACI ul. Górnośląska 24 You enter to be greeted by an instal lation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.
But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).
TOWELCOMEGREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa) 20 BEST20 o f W ARS AW Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!
KONESER GRILL ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser) Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.
Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ALE WINO ul. Mokotowska 48 Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrin thine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.
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When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember… Nobu ul. Wilcza 73
MUZEALNA Al. Jerozolimskie 3 Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the
EUROPEJSKI GRILL ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contem porary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.
Author’s Cuisine
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DYLETANCI ul. Rozbrat 44A The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.
EPOKA ul. Ossolińskich 3 Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes recon structed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.
For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowi na. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. NUTA Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.
SIGNATURE ul. Poznańska 15 Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.
CULINARY MASTERCLASS hub.praga ul. Jagiellońska 22
Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘One To Watch’ title at the Insider’s 2016 Best of Warsaw awards. And wow, this newbie is also one to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moon-shaped mirrors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.
warsawinsider.pl 57 beetroot wellington. NOLITA ul. Wilcza 46
RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. ROZBRAT 20 ul. Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.
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CAFÉ PODRYGI Al. Jerzolimskie 3 Past an open pair of wrought iron gates, and up a neatly pebbled path, visitors find themselves sauntering into the neatly clipped gardens of the National Museum – the pristine immensity of what lies ahead is striking, and even more so when the modernist architecture is illuminated at night. Such is the power of the backdrop, Podrygi don’t need to do much with their outdoor decora tions, and as such keep it simple with black decking and a couple of hammocks bookending the seats. The cocktails and wine choice are as sophisticated as the setting.
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Wine & Cocktails
LANE’S GIN BAR ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
Rascal Bar ul. Moliera 6
Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…
One of the year’s hottest openings, Rascal is reputedly Europe’s largest bar specializing in natural wines. Looking stripped down to maximize the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers that have made this their domain. With the end of summer approaching, make full use of the back garden while you can.
Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.
EL KOKTEL ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9 The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.
CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1
ETHER Chmielna 71 (NYX Hotel) Floor 19 is the destination, and once there you’ll find yourself right up next to the Varso Tower – a skyscraper that likes to pretend it’s the tallest in the EU (and it is, if you count the transmitter). Downers include the lack of table service (at least on our visit) and, even worse, the absence of a bathroom – get caught short and you’ll be taking the lift back to Floor No. 1. What’s to like? The cocktails justify the prices (you’re looking at a starting point of PLN 45) and the views are a killer. Positioned so you catch the best of the sunset falling over the CBD, watching the night slide in is a beautiful experience.
NOLA ul. Wilcza 43 NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.
LORETA ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Warsaw likes its rooftops, and at the Puro you have what many consider to be the best. Alright, so the view isn’t actually that good (it’s relatively low and largely obscured), but the atmosphere never fails.
PALOMA INN ul. Poznańska 21 Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curva ceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complement ing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors. REGINABAR ul. Koszykowa 1 Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. VHS BAR Poznańska 7 An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!
SUMMER NEVER ENDS
WARSZAWA POWIŚLE ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B
Remember the word ‘hipster’? It was pretty much coined at Warszawa Powiśle. Maturing since the times when this former ticket hall was all chipboard and cracks, nowadays this saucer-shaped building has been reenergized as a high-end cocktail den. One constant remains: everyone still prefers to drink outdoors. Should you do so, rush-hour brings a torrent of humanity to observe whilst sipping on something long and fizzy.
Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when you discreetly enquire about their little black book.
Bristling with plants, candles and beautiful people, enjoy inventive cocktails that feel as eclectic as the design-forward interior.
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JABEERWOCKY ul. Nowogrodzka 12 Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).
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Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best… Drugie Dno ul. Nowogrodzka 4 To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Evoking the look of a disused power station, the Double D. sports rugged brickwork and a scuffed style with the industrialized look amped up through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. CUDA NA KIJU ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Warsaw’s first multitap craft bar can no longer claim to be the city’s most adventurous (nor has it been able to for a long time), but it’s most popular: hell yes! Offering an understandable choice – plus a few mad mavericks – the craft tipples are complemented by on-tap cider and Prosecco. At the weekend, hundreds of people gather to sit on the deckchairs out in front to enjoy the sun set over General de Gaulle’s statue. But go beyond, and into the courtyard, and you’ll find an army of millennials spilling into the fountain and jiggling to tunes blasting from nearby bar-clubs like Newonce. CZEŚĆ ul. Grzybowska 2 It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comforta bly rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap? Yeah, by that we mean small, little places with six or seven beers on the go. The rotation of new finds is balanced well with traditional faves. GORACZKA ZLOTA ul. Wilcza 29 Get down with the regulars at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal. With just five taps, this place is about quality not quantity.
HOPITO ul. Żurawia 32/34 Appealing to a far younger, more party-oriented crowd than the area’s other craft joints, find a sloshed audience weaving around a neon lit room decorated with black and white doodles by some of Poland’s biggest street artists. The beer offer is highly commend able, and even includes a beer slushy machine! Specializing in the utterly crazy beers of Hopito (you’d never have guessed), the choice is unflinchingly fun and boosted by (usually) great pizzas from a Neapolitan wood-fired oven.
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Feeling Crafty!
SYTY CHMIEL Marszałkowska 10/16
Szum ul. Giełdowa 1 From the same team behind Shoku, Szum’s global menu includes homemade pastrami, bef rib with an Asian spin and pizza made using dough fermented for 48-hours. And then there’s a range of Mexican-style Michelada cocktails to swig back on. The airy, concrete-heavy design is offset by the beautiful accents such as plus surfaces, bold geometric patterns, lush plants and striking neon. They do a bit of everything – and they do it very well.
KUFLE I KAPSLE ul. Nowogrodzka 25 Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage.
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Though undeniably large, intimacy isn’t short in supply, and that’s down to the comfortable armchairs, framed pictures, atmospheric lo-lighting and some personal trinkets to reflect the passions of the owners. Despite its copiously large footprint, Syty Chmiel has a warmth to it that causes visitors to settle in for a long night ahead – and settle you will. There’s twelve taps in total, and these offer a rotation of craft goodness that ranges from wacky to understandable. It’s not just about drink, either.
Taste The Exotic
For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…
BLUE CACTUS ul. Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas. We love it and you will as well.
BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE ul. Nowy Świat 58
PINTA ul. Chmielna 7/9 Find a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and bits of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves.
SAME KRAFTY ul. Nowomiejska 10 Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis.
CURRY HOUSE ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54
Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.
Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. Many locations, inc. GURU ul. Widok 8
With Argentine chef Martin Gimen ez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Cevi che is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. However, the main menu has also been extended to include such hits as beef tenderloin and grilled dorado. The happening, cosmopolitan vibe is reflected by a sublime cocktail offers that mixes South American and Japanese influences.
PAŃSKA 85 ul. Pańska 85
The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal –it’s Poland’s hottest curry!
JAPONKA ul. Grzybowska 56 Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!
JOEL SHARING CONCEPT ul. Koszykowa 1 Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.
LA SIRENA ul. Piękna 54 Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.
CEVICHE BAR ul. Twarda 4
SENOR LUCAS ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. THE COOL CAT ul. Solec 38 & Marszałkowska 8 Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasion ally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent. UKI UKI ul. Krucza 23/31 How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.
LE CEDRE Al. Solidarności 61 & 84 With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.
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Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.
warsawinsider.pl 63 WARSAWINCASTLEROYALTHEOFCOURTESYIMAGES BELLOTTO COMES TO TOWN Also known as Canaletto, this September sees the debut of an exhibition in The Royal Castle in Warsaw honoring 300 years of Bernardo Bellotto… Bernardo Bellotto Former Church of the Holy Cross in Dresden, 1751, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden
64 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 T o celebrate what would have been Bernardo Bellotto’s 300th birthday, two museums have joined forces to organize an ex hibition presenting the creative path and achievements of one of the most famous vedutistas to ever have lived. With no other institutions in the world owning more works by Bellotto than Dresden’s Sta atliche Kunstsammlungen and The Royal Castle in Warsaw, the collaboration has ensured that fans of the artist will never have a better chance to see such a complete presentation of this artist’s oeuvre.
The Warsaw leg of the exhi bition will include Bernardo Bel lotto’s works sourced from, inter alia, the National Gallery and the British Museum in London, the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, the J.P. Getty Museum in Los Angeles, the Fitzwilliam Above, Bernardo Bellotto, View of the Canal Grande: Santa Maria della Salute and the Dogana from Campo Santa Maria Zobenigo, circa 1743, The J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles
Having been first presented in Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie earlier in the year, this Sep tember will see the exhibition shift eastwards to Warsaw. Although differing in content, some selected works will have been showcased at both. Among other things, the exhibition will include pictures, graphics and drawings charac teristic of Bellotto’s respective creative periods. The first part will comprise works from his youth spent in Venice and from his travels around Italy: Flor ence, Milan, Rome and Verona. The second part, meanwhile, will be devoted to the artist’s stay in Dresden, where he spent more than twenty-years working at the Wettins’ court. This period included a hiatus, as following the outbreak of the Seven Years’ War in Europe, Bellotto was forced to seek employment in Vienna and Munich.Thepainter spent his last cre ative years in Warsaw, working for King Stanisław August and Museum in Cambridge, the Manchester Gallery of Art, Mu seo Capodimonte in Naples, the Pinacoteca del Castello Sforzesco in Milan, the Musei Reali in Turin and the Gemälde galerie in Dresden. Bernardo Bellotto. On the 300th Anniversary of the Painter’s Birth When: September 23rd until January 10th Where: The Royal Castle in Warsaw (Pl. Zamkowy 4) Tickets: PLN 40 (PLN 30 reduced) representatives of the Polish aristocracy. An ensemble of 22 vedute presenting the city of Warsaw and its vicinity (the largest collection of Bellotto’s works in existence) may be admired, until this day, at The Royal Castle in Warsaw, in a room designed specifically at the behest of the Polish king.
warsawinsider.pl 65 SOLE MATES
Anybody
By Krystyna Spark Anis Online only (anis.com) This online brand personifies elegance at its fin est. A truly feminine label, Anis does exception ally well when it comes to heels and sandals. Their classic styles, with signature round block heels, don’t compromise on comfort, making them a great choice for busy formal events. attending a wedding this autumn? Balagan Studio Mysia 3 The fruit of a cross-country collaboration, Balagan was founded by two friends who divide their time living in Warsaw and Tel Aviv. Inspired by the clean lines of the modernist Bauhaus architecture so prevalent in Tel Aviv, shoes by Balagan combine style with comfort and practicality. A favorite among women who like a nod to fashions of the past as well as contemporary simplicity.
From brands founded in the 19th century, to those using trending plant-based materials, join us for a look at the ten Polish footwear brands that every style maven needs to know…
MATERIALPRESSNEXTANDPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPH Loafer selection from Sept
Bohema Białostocka 22 Contemporary designs con structed from the most inno vative plant-based materials. A reflection of the values of its founders, this footwear brand places animal welfare at the core of its operations. The first in the world to present shoes made of cactus skin and the first in Poland to offer models in pineapple leaf skin (Pinatex), ap ple skin and grape skin (Vegea)! Glamoursy Mokotowska 51/53 (show room) Who said glitter and sneakers do not go together? Glamoursy certainly do not agree! Offering shoes handmade in Poland by Polish craftsmen, using materi als from Polish suppliers, from shoelaces to package ribbons, Glamoursy is the real deal! Jan Kielman Chmielna 6
With a designated line for moth ers and daughters, this label will steal your heart. Star covered cowboy boots... Need we say more? And for those who prefer a nod towards trendiness, Rita Krysiek offers designs very reminiscent of Isabel Marant’s famous suede Dewina boots.
Vanda Nowak Mokotowska 51/53
Taking inspiration from the rich Slavic traditions of embroidery and craft, Vanda Nowak’s de signs are a variation on classic elegance. The unique, goldtoned, round heel base is not the only differentiating element of this Polish brand, which de scribes itself with the following statement: “Vanda Nowak – the past told in the language of tomorrow.”
Sept Mokotowska 26 (LUI Concept Store) Much like most brands, Sept places an emphasis on timeless styles. However, the label does include some funkier alternatives. Loafers in a leopard print and po ny-effect leather or khaki-colored suede with tassels. If you’re tired of the typical, Sept is a must and a great occasion to check out one of Warsaw’s favorite concept stores – LUI on Mokotowska.
With a history harking back to 1883, this family-owned busi ness is recognized as one of the best in the world. Specializing in custom-made men’s shoes, Jan Kielman is a true heritage brand. Visit their location on Chmielna 6, where a skilled craftsman will be able to take measurements of both feet, should you wish to place an order on the spot. L37 Mokotowska 52A “Out of love for unconventional shoes” is the tagline of this brand, which celebrated its 20th anniversary last year. If ultra-fashionable quirkiness is what you’re after, L37 is one to check out. Safe to say it’s not for the minimalists among us. MAKO Mokotowska 43 Specializing in handbags and footwear, MAKO is here to deliver the desirable. With styles fitting seamlessly into the trends of today, this label definitely knows where it’s at. Head over to their fashionable boutique on Mokotowska to discover the designs in person. Because, when it comes to footwear, we all know there is nothing better than trying things on in person! Rita Krzysiek Online only (3-fashion.com)
66 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 UNSPLASHPAGETHISPHOTOGRAPH
Rita Krzysiek L37
In May 2004, I completed a 9-month course in Polynesian Ma-uri massage. It was an extraordinary time during which I matured radically in both my professional and personal life. I felt like I had rediscovered myself. The course galvanized me to work on myself and my life. Additionally, it gave me a greater awareness of the body, deepened my spiritual develop ment and gave a new insight into myself. Warsaw has many fabulous venues offering massage and holistic treatments, so what makes Body & Mind by Hanka Kraszczyńska so special?
We really do go the extra step in our individual approach. All our clients comment on how special our SPA makes them feel from the moment they cross the threshold, not to mention how it regenerates their body and soul – they feel a serenity here and will often comment about our ‘healing touch’. You can be with us for just an hour and still feel brand new in the morning.
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HK: Well, my personal adventure began in 1997 when I first heard about the Reiki ‘philosophy’. Prior to that, for many years I was work ing in the banking and finance sector. That was obviously quite a regimented, ‘fact-based’ career far removed from spiritual develop ment. As they say, however, ‘when
Hanka Kraszczyńska reveals her own spiritual journey, and the importance of sharing her knowledge with others…
How else did this holistic ap proach change your life?
SOULINTERVIEW:STORY
the student is ready, the teacher appears’. I started to learn about ‘educational kinesiology’ and later took part in a Reiki seminar held in Warsaw. In essence, this was the beginning of a beautiful path to spirituality and marked a serious transformation in my life that made it all the richer. My attitude towards myself also changed and I found myself able to move beyond the limitations that I had set myself. Today, Reiki Energy is with me every day and helps guide me through the chal lenges of day-to-day living.
WI: First off, would it be right to say you quit the corporate rat race to pursue the spiritual life?
When you work with energy that means working on yourself. For 25-years I’ve been practicing Reiki using the Usui Shiki Ryoho method, and that focuses in on the Universal Life Energy that permeates the en tire universe. Broadly understood, this form of Reiki is about preven tion, personal development and embracing a holistic view towards health and wellbeing.
My own growing fascination with the workings of the human body – and the energy inside and around it – motivated me to learn Lomi Lomi Nui massage. A Polish teacher first introduced me to the secrets of this, and then I furthered my knowledge under the tutelage of a Hawaiian teacher, Susan Pa'iniu Floyd. Although I obtained my teaching certificate in 2009, it took another two-years before I was ready to train others, and in the time in between I earned that highest qualification of all whilst in Hawaii – that being certified as a teacher of Lomi Lomi Nui. Today, I can say that the work over the years has led me to develop my intuition, resulting in a heightened sensitivity to the needs of others. My courses are about sharing this good and transforming the lives of people with the knowledge I have gained.
68 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022
Finally, you offer a series of work shops and suchlike – what can people expect from these?
“
Body & Mind by Hanka Kraszczyńska Tel. 784 665 254 ul. Pełczyńskiego 28, apt. 24 & Al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Hotel Polonia lomilomi.waw.plPalace),
First-timers need to know they should trust their therapist (which isn’t always easy if you’ve never tried before). I always ask people to breathe deeply throughout a massage – as we breathe out, it releases tension and gives relief. While massaging, I like to listen to the Hawaiian rhythms and try and build a situation where the client and I breathe as one. According to Hawaiian folklore, breath is the root of life: when you breathe in, you should take in what is good, and when you breath out, you should exhale the your tensions, fears and negativity.
You offer ‘energy therapy’ – what does that actually mean?
While massaging, I like to listen to the Hawaiian rhythms and try and build a situation where the client and I breathe as one Many people have never stepped foot inside a SPA – what should they know?
warsawinsider.pl 69 preschools WARSAWSCHOOLAMERICANOF Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Pro gramme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org BRITISH SCHOOLPRIMARYOF WILANOW A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit. THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary educa tion. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl learning THE PRESCHOOLWARSAWSCHOOLCANADIANOF Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative pro gram (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl CASA BAMBINIDEI SCHOOLTODDLER& (multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montes sori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl THE TRILINGUALINTERNATIONALSCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, warsawfamilymontessori Warsaw Montessori Schools applicationsAccepting for our programs and Infantlocations:&Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19 Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek Elementary Szwoleżerów „Erdkinder”4 Middle School Tatrzańska 5a Montessori High ContactPytlasińskiegoSchool13aOffice:692 099 www.wmf.edu.ploffice@warsawmontessori.edu.pl134 reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1 18.12.2018 12:32
70 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are high ly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl THE PLAYHOUSEENGLISH The PlayhouseEnglish functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl MAPLE MONTESSORITREE Maple MontessoriTree is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl STONESSTEPPINGMONTESSORI An intimate, interna tional, English-speak ing preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristepping stones.pl thebritishschool.pl(0048)admissions@thebritishschool.plSECONDARYEARLYOPENADMISSIONSYEARS,PRIMARY,&IB228423281ext.125
warsawinsider.pl 71 schools AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best univer sities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, audito rium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl AMERICANSCHOOLOFWARSAW With over 50 nation alities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. admissions@aswarsaw.orgContact:or22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Kon stancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org SCHOOLPRIMARYBRITISHOF WILANOW A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environ ment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl THE PRIMARYENGLISH The PrimaryEnglishis designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but Follow us instagram.com/warsawinsiderfacebook.com/warsawinsideron: Online Don’t Miss A Beat! For the latest trends and stories from Warsaw join us at warsawinsider.pl
in Pupils through the that achieve the of their Swimming, Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, is in English Polish. is as a Offers a Bełska tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or olimpijska@canadian-school.plsecretary. TRILINGUALINTERNATIONALSCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084),
third language.
JOYPRIMARYSCHOOL not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333,
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MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Mon nett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to only the standards of education. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,
tep.edu.pl THE ELEMENTARYINTERNATIONALWARSAWSCHOOLCANADIANOF AND MIDDLE SCHOOL Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this
ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and
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warsawinsider.pl 73 WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL A leader in the field of Mon tessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, oper ating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montes sori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibil ity for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl shopping experiences ARKADIA Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl GALERIA MOKOTÓW Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top bou tiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl ZŁOTE TARASY Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl +48bsw.com.pl221110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, admissions@bswilanow.orgWarsaw Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9
74 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 RODIN: THE ESSENCE OF IMPRESSIONISM
Eva (ca. 1881, marble) Reminiscent of Michelangelo’s ‘Expulsion from Paradise’, this sculpture presents a nude woman seemingly riddled with guilt and shame. Rodin’s model for the sculpture was reputedly pregnant at the time, which some claim explains the unfin ished abdomen. oaned from the Staatliche Kunstsam mlungen Dresden, a trio of sculptures by the French artist Auguste Rodin have gone on show at the Royal Ła zienki Museum… Shedding light on Rodin’s artistic philosophy, the sculptures combine tradition with innovation and will remain on display until November 12th.
L
Jean d’Aire (1884/86, bronze) Commissioned by Calais town hall, this sculpture was created to honor six townsfolk that offered themselves up as prisoners in order to safeguard the town during the Hundred Years’ War. At the time, the work was considered groundbreaking for the non-standard way it depicted heroism.
KRÓLEWSKIEŁAZIENKIMUZEUMOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS
warsawinsider.pl 75 Royal Łazienki Museum ul. Agrykola 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl Open Tues, Weds & Sun 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Thur, Fri & Sun 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mon.
Small "Male Torso" (1880s, bronze) Speaking to artist Paul Gsell, Rodin invoked the words of Michelangelo when explaining his fixation with incomplete fragments of the human body: “Michelangelo said himself that a good statue could be rolled from the top of a mountain without breaking; in his opinion, anything that fell off in the process could be judged as being superfluous.”
SEVEN!
76 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022
MUSEUM OF WARSAW Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-lin ear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl NATIONAL MUSEUM Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.
rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vin tage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl
FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.
Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…
museum MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and THE MAGNIFICENT
NEON MUSEUM Playing a key role in the govern ment’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org POLIN Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec syna gogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl
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THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM If the throngs and sheer infor mational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of con ditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl
That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl
78 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022 13 2 3 4 6 7 4 19 km 4 km 9 km 2 5 10 6 118 7 9 SwietokrzyskaGrzybowskaProsta NationalStadium ŁazienkiPark TownOld PragaZoo Palace &CultureofScience CemeteryCemeteryPowązkiJewish Marszałkowska Andersa Al.Jerozolimskie Stawki 1
warsawinsider.pl 79 MAP exeriencesshopping 1 Designer WarszawaOutlet ul. Puławska designeroutletwarszawa.pl42E, 2 Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrownia powisle.com 3 Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska galeriamokotow.com.pl12, 4 Galeria Północna ul. Światowida galeriapolnocna.pl17, 5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6 Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8 Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl 9 Vitkac ul. Bracka likusconceptstore.pl9, 10 Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II pl.westfield.com/arkadia82, 11 Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl museums 1 National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2 The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3 Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4 Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5 Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Facto ry), neonmuzeum.org 6 Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7 POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl sport 1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska https://legia.com/3, 5 NationalStadium
Amighty affirma tion of the city’s cool, August saw the launch of the Warszawa SPZL, a trainer produced by Adidas as part of its cult City series. Though first premiering ahead of the 1960 Rome Olympics, the City line truly came to promi nence in the 1980s when it was embraced by the British ‘football casual’ hooligan scene. Since crossing over into mainstream hip, the City line has, over the years, seen the manufacture of
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trainers dedicated to Stock holm, München, Los Angeles, Malmo and countless others. Only now, however, has a Polish city been bestowed the honor.Designed by Gary Aspden, his inspirations included the music of Joy Division (who were briefly known as Warsaw) and David Bowie’s song Warszawa, written when the singer found himself walking the streets of Żoliborz. “The image of Bowie on the album’s cover,” says Aspden, “is often equated as one of the roots of the British football casual movement.”
80 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2022
Presented in intense shades of yellow and burgundy, the sneaker’s color palette refers to the brickwork of Warsaw as well as the plasterwork of many of the city’s housing estates. Quite by chance, it also reminds of the city’s red-andyellowReleasedflag. in a limited run, queues outside the Warsaw Sneaker Store began forming at 3 a.m. on the day of launch, with stocks selling out imme diately. Already though, many have found their way to resell sites. Further, scant stocks have also appeared in the Vitkac department store. To wear this unique piece of Warsaw, expect to fork out a RRP of PLN 449.
Long-awaited, the Adi das Warszawa SPZL fi nally made its premier in the middle of August…
MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow
