Warsaw Insider May 2023 #321

Reviews: EAT & DRINK

Cud na Kiju – p. 33

Szóstka / Warszawska – p. 34

Purr Purr – p. 36

Interview: Agnieszka Rojewska – p. 38

Mex round-up – p. 40

Młodsza Siostra – p. 42

The Eatery – p. 44

Brac – p. 46

DISCOVER

Museum of Warsaw – p. 57

Night of Museums – p. 60

ALL THINGS CONSIDERED, it’s unlikely you’ll find a finer time to enjoy Warsaw than the month of May – I mean, how on earth can you not love a month that kicks-off in earnest with a one-week holiday. That’s Majówka, should you be wondering. With two national holidays falling this year on the first Monday and Wednesday of the month, everyone who is normal – and a few of us that aren’t – are cert to take time-off on the days either side.

But May presents more than just the chance to down tools. With Warsaw at that bridging point between the frigid winter and furnace-like summer (yep, some call it Spring), it’s now that the city really comes alive both socially and culturally. Of course, we’ve covered both these angles courtesy of content that I hope reflects the dynamic nature of Warsaw in May. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ next time.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Intel

Mural City: Bielany

Though still lagging far behind the likes of Ursynów and Praga, the western district of Bielany is now discovering a liking for wall art…

Unveiled in mid-April, Bielany’s latest mural honours Anna Jantar and Jarosław Kukulski, a pair of artists that resided in an apartment on Reymonta 21. Unveiled on April 11th to coincide with what would have been the couple’s anniversary, the ceremony was attended by hundreds of locals as well as Natalia Kukulska, their daughter.

Taking less than a week to paint, the mural was designed by Adam Żebrowski and features the words ‘Życia mała garść’, the title of a song that Kukulski composed. Boasting vibrant, retro colours, the artwork was painted so as to effect the look of a classic vinyl record.

BIELANY’S CULT MURALS

Kora (Żeromskiego 44/50) Debuting last year one week ahead of what would have been her 70th birthday, this mural remembers Kora, a best-selling rock artist who for decades dominated the Polish charts.

Krystyna Sienkiewicz (Żeromskiego 44/50)

For years Kora lived on the same street, ul. Płatnicza, as the actress Krystyna Sienkiewicz. Painted in a similar style, this mural has reunited the two friends. A hugely popular local figure, Sienkiewicz even had a gallery in her back garden titled “The Hut of Unnecessary Things”.

Akogo (Żeromskiego 4E) Presented in a flurry of fluid colours, this work was created to mark the 20th anniversary of Akogo, a foundation that provides help to the families of comatose young people.

Kora

Krystyna Sienkiewicz

Akogo

Wills Rocks Warsaw

Prince William caused a stir when he visited a Warsaw restaurant billing itself as “your queer space for comfort food”…

Eat Like A Prince

Costing PLN 39, Prince William ordered a challah pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw, fries and homemade mayo.

commented owner Paweł Zasim.

Prince William’s two-day visit to Poland made world headlines after the royal snubbed more salubrious eateries to instead dine alongside aides from Kensington Palace in one of Warsaw’s bestknown gay haunts. Describing itself as “a queer and loving space”, Butero on Bracka 3 has become an established landmark on the city’s gay circuit ever since opening late last year. Now, though, it’s fame has gone global after Wills was pictured perusing the menu by surprised regulars.

Speaking to the Mail Online, owner Paweł Zasim revealed that earlier in the day he’d received a booking for twelve people under the name of Daisy. “It was supposed to be her birthday,” said Zasim. Matters took a bizarre twist when a bodyguard later appeared and said that instead of Daisy, Prince William would be arriving.

Staying for three-hours, the heir to the British throne was snapped in the restaurant by a journalist seated at the next table. “Warsaw can surprise,” wrote Michał Zaczyński on Insta, “today I ate dinner with a prince.” With the images quickly going viral, the prince has been widely praised for showing solidarity with Poland’s beleaguered gay community.

“He ate everything, so we assume he liked it,”

The Essence of Grochów

Often maligned and misunderstood, the eastern district of Grochów is undergoing a revival of sorts…

For years considered a glum dormitory district, much has happened in recent years to see Grochów’s reputation finally reappraised. Change is afoot and proof as to this transformation can be found not just in the bars and cafes that are springing up, but on the walls themselves. As a sure-fire sign of cool, every district needs a mural designed by the Warsaw-based surrealist Tytus Brzozowski. Rife with local references, not to mention the artist’s trademark flights of fancy (tumbling dice and floaty elements), Grochów received its own XL Brzozowski on Gorochowska 215 in 2018 as part of events commemorating the centenary of the modern Polish state.

Buy It

A must for all Warsaw addicts, the illustrated architectural atlases of Centrum Architektury have become essential reading matter since debuting just over a decade ago. Zoning in on different districts, Grochów has now been added to the portfolio with this pint-sized hardback presenting the story of around 60 local landmarks. Order a copy via their website (centrumarchitektury.org) for the reduced price of PLN 45.

Szembeka Market Zamieniecka 8

Everyone knows (and loves) Hala Mirowska, but for a food market that’s a little more ‘in the know’ then head to Szembeka. Compared by Gazeta Wyborcza to a Brooklyn market, visit for muddy farmers’ produce as well as international finds from Greece, Romania, India, Georgia, etc. Established right after Warsaw’s wartime liberation, the sense of chaos and authenticity is unmatched by the more contrived markets in the centre.

U Krawca Siennicka 3

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced

Tytus Brzozowski Mural

from the likes of Coffee Pirates

Vienna keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. There is no better café in this postcode!

Antykwariat Grochowski Kickiego 12

To call this place an antique store would be an understatement. Enter to find a maze-like space filled with 130,000 used books and heaps of vinyl, graphic art, disintegrating photographs, old currency and the occasional medal. Nuking the competition into touch, this is the ultimate time travel machine.

Kicia Kocia Stanów Zjednoczonych 68

Every area needs a Kicia Kocia – an indy-flavoured locale that presents an arsenal of craft beers against a pleasingly retro background filled with broken-spined books, dusty

TV sets and sagging armchairs. Relaxed, fun and friendly, it’s the area’s social lynchpin.

Kawiarnia Waszyngton

Waszyngtona 96A

Set just across the border from Saska Kępa, this terrazzo-encased café has a glorious daytime vibe

The Grochów Ninja

With a FB following of around 10k, the Grochów Ninja is one of Warsaw's truest cult figures. Roaming around with a 19-inch bokken sword, find

Antykwariat Grochowski

U Krawca

Kawiarnia Waszyngton

From A to B

WXCA unveil plans to bridge two epic institutions...

Simple but striking, plans for an 80-metre footbridge linking two museums together have been released by the WXCA architectural studio. Poised to connect the Polish Army Musuem and the Polish History Museum – both of which are yet to open – the pedestrian bridge will be 3.5 metres wide and pass over the walls and moat of the Citadel. As things stand, however, both local councillors and the architects stress that building permits and design have yet to be fully formalised and confirmed. In other words, watch this space.

Coming Soon!

Museum of Polish History

Costing PLN

1.2 billion, this epic institution is projected to attract 500,000 visitors annually when it opens in 2025.

Polish Army Museum

Relocating from its traditional home on Jerozolimskie, over 300,000 items have been amassed for the museum’s opening later this summer.

WARSAW

HAPPENING THIS MONTH CHOPIN RECITALS RETURN

May 14th marks the beginning of this year’s cycle of outdoor Chopin concerts. Taking place at noon and 4 p.m. each Sunday thereafter, join a regular crowd of thousands to listen to some of the world’s top pianists tinkle away in the shadow of the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park – it’s a Warsaw rite of passage!

At A Glance

• Unveiled on November 14th, 1926, the Chopin monument had been years in the planning – as early as 1889, a memorial to mark the 40th anniversary of the composer’s death had been discussed. In 1901 Tsar Nicholas II bent to the growing clamour for a monument after the opera singer Adelajda Brocholska personally appealed to him following a performance in St. Petersburg.

• The design was picked by a jury in 1908 – though the field of sixty-six entrants included such luminaries as Xavery Dunikowski, Émile Antoine Bourdelle and Paul-Albert Bartholomé, it was Wacław Szymanowski that won following a unanimous decision.

• On May 31st, 1940, it became the first Warsaw monument to be destroyed during the German occupation. Picked for its patriotic value, the smelted materials were used to manufacture ammo. The next day, a sign appeared on the plinth: “I do not know who did this,” it read, “but I know why: so that I won’t play the funeral march for your leader.”

The Word Is Out!

To be built on the former House of the Polish Word printing works, excitement is building around the Towarowa 22 investment…

Covering an area of 6.5 hectares, the project will see not just the construction of offices and housing, but also more attention paid to its public spaces. Maciej Rydz of JEMS Architecki said: “we want Towarowa 22 to be a model example of the modern city –one that’s built with the current needs of its residents in mind, but also that respects the past whilst caring for the future. That is why we have devoted our energy to creating a perfect combination of buildings and public space.”

Currently occupied by a former printing plant and shopping centre, the Słowa Polskiego Park will form the central element of the investment. Seeking to connect the business district with the heart of old Wola, the highest point of the project will be a 150-metre office block. Other high-rise structures will gently descend towards the south-east of the investment, thereby creating a natural passage between the offices on Rondo Daszyńskiego and the historic buildings of Wola. As things stand, the park and lower buildings should be built within the next two-years, with another ten-years set aside for the completion of four skyscrapers.

Back Story

Originally opened in 1950 (it hosted a global peace conference that very same year), for decades the area was dominated by Dom Słowa Polskiego (The House of the Polish Word), the largest printing house in Communist Poland. In its heyday, it rolled out in excess of 500,000 million newspapers per year, with titles including Młodego Technika (Young Engineering) and Żołnierza Wolności (Soldier of Freedom). Bereft of state support, free market realities saw its significance erode and, in 2010, it was finally put out of its misery and closed for good.

Resolved!

For years known simply as ‘the EMPiK building’, it’s been announced that the tenement straddling the corner of Nowy Świat and Jerozolimskie will be renovated to house a branch of the voivodeship office. Briefly serving as a refugee crisis centre, the news ends months of speculation during which time the address had sat largely empty.

Entered into the Register of Monuments last year, it initially completed in 1952 and served as temporary home to the capital’s reconstruction bureau – to this day, a giant engraving adorns the façade with the message, “the whole nation is building the capital”.

Constructed in Socialist Realist style, but also featuring Classicist flurries, it later housed the International Book & Press Club and became one of the leading cultural institutions in the city – a place where people could stock up on international press from the Communist sphere (and sometimes beyond), meet authors, partake in discussions and sip ersatz coffee in the trendy ground floor café. In 1964, a mosaic by Władysław Zych was added on the side facing Jerzolimskie. Depicting a military action undertaken by the People’s Guard, this wartime Communist resistance group launched two attacks on the café that had previously stood on the exact same site.

Representative of Warsaw’s reconstruction, an iconic building is to be handed a new role…

HAPPENING THIS MONTH

2,850 sq/m in area

16,000,000 colours display

367 water jets

30,000 litres of water per minute

30,000 plus crowds in attendence

WATER WORLD

The numbers speak for themselves: drawing over a million people per year, Warsaw’s Multimedia Fountain Park has come to be regarded as one of the city’s biggest summertime attractions. In much the same way that the Sunday Chopin recitals have become ‘a weekend essential’, so too has an evening squashed onto the grassy embankment that overlooks the stunning fountain complex.

INFO BOX

Multimedia Fountain Park Skwer 1 Dywizji Pancernej

Usually inaugurated on the first weekend of May.

Breath-taking summer shows take place every Friday and Saturday evening at 9 p.m

Originally unveiled in 2005 by the French Foreign Minister Michel Barnier, May 15th marks the 18th birthday of Warsaw’s Charles de Gaulle statue. Cast from bronze in Bielsko-Biała, it was copied on a Jean Cardot sculpture that debuted in Paris five years before. Four metres in height, and depicting the Frenchman striding briskly towards Nowy Świat, the location was by no means incidental: it was down this route that the Frenchman would often walk, not least to pick-up a bag of doughnuts from the Blikle confectionary.

First stationed in Warsaw between April 1919 and May 1920, de Gaulle returned for a second stint shortly thereafter that lasted from June 1920 to January 1921. Tasked with training officers for the Polish Army, de Gaulle found himself based largely at a cadet school in Rembertów. Later, as the Red Army poured towards Warsaw during the Polish-Soviet War, he joined the Southern Front to serve as an advisor to General Rydz-Śmigły.

A staunch friend of Poland, de Gaulle condemned the 1944 Yalta Conference which essentially handed the country over

Who’s A Big Boy

September 6th, 1967

to the mercy of Stalin. When he revisited in 1967, he reiterated his support for a free Poland. Costing PLN 1.2 million, and funded by French investors active on the Polish market, the de Gaulle monument is a fitting tribute to one of the country’s most faithful allies.

Warsaw’s Charles de Gaulle statue hits 18 years of age…

Pictured here, fans scale the WKD station to gain a better view of the visiting hero.

Up For The Cup?

Legia look to rescue their season with a cup victory…

Poland’s most successful football club look set to finish runners-up in the league having mounted a late and unlikely title challenge following an inconsistent start to the season. Yet whilst, ultimately, their championship aspirations have petered out, their two final home games (Jagiellonia Białystok on May 12th and Śląsk Wrocław on May 27th) should still take place amid a raucous atmosphere given the traditional enmity reserved for these clubs.

Furthermore, while fans continue to demonstrate antipathy towards the club’s

hierarchy, a trophy remains a very real possibility. Scheduled to appear in the Polish Cup Final on May 2nd, the game will pit Legia against holders Raków Częstochowa. With Raków set to cruise to the title, this is Legia’s chance to claim something back from a largely dispiriting season. Alas, even victory at the National Stadium could prove a tainted triumph after Legia’s fans declared a boycott following a decision to uphold a ban on large-scale tifo arrangements - with negotiations underway with the domestic footballl association, this could though stand to change.

For match tickets, see: bilety.legia.com

HAPPENING THIS MONTH

JAZZ IN ŁAZIENKI

Those thinking that Łazienki’s musical offer is limited to Chopin recitals better think again. For the third year, the Royal Theatre in the Old Orangery will host the Jazz in the Royal Łazienki series, under the patronage of Grammy winner Włodek Pawlik. With the first concert set for May, three others have been scheduled to follow in later months. Tickets are priced at PLN 100 and are available from lazienki-krolewskie.pl

INFO BOX

May 6th

In Memoriam Prof. Zbigniew Wawer

June 10th

Norwid/Pawlik - Don't call me to a humble song...

September 9th

Pawlik & Pawlik

October 14th

Baczyński 100

Ministerstwo Kultury Dziedzictwa Narodowego

Dziedzictwa Narodowego, w ramach

Days Of Glory?

Polonia Warsaw narrow in on a second consecutive promotion…

If you’ve ever paused to consider how tough your own life is at times, then spare a thought for the supporters of Polonia. Champions of Poland at the start of the millennium, a financial catastrophe a decade later saw Warsaw’s oldest team scuttled and cast down to the murky depths of the semi-professional leagues.

At times fighting against the very real threat of extinction, the route back up has been far from easy. However, after flirting with death, the club found itself resuscitated in 2020 following a takeover by the French IT tycoon Grégoire Nitot. Seeking to

restore the club to the Ekstraklasa by 2030, what had appeared to be a far-fetched fantasy has now gained traction as the club closes in on their second promotion on the spin.

Promoted to the third flight in highly dramatic circumstances last summer, Polonia have again hit form as the season reaches its business end – and to close out the season, the fixture computer couldn’t have been any kinder. Playing their games at their charmingly antique home at Konwiktorska 6, Polonia’s final home matches see them face Olimpia Elbląg (to be held at an as yet undisclosed time on the

weekend of May 20th), before signing off against Motor Lublin on June 4th

With Olimpia’s fans enjoying a close friendship with those of Legia, the penultimate home game is set to be a powder-keg affair laced with hints of derby day hatred. Meanwhile, the Motor Lublin match has already seen the club promising to open the Kamienna – the spiritual home of Polonia’s most vocal fans.

For tickets, see: bilety.kspolonia.pl

EXPERT OPINION

CLARKSON SAYS…

Vilified by Jeremy Clarkson, the journalist once went so far as to drop a Polonez from a crane. The subject of his ire many times over, Clarkson has previously described it as being “built by Communists out of steel so thin you could use it as a net curtain,” before calling it “as reliable and long-lasting as a pensioner’s erection.” That’s not all – the TV star has gone on record to claim it as being “the worst car ever in the world to actually drive.”

45 Years Of the FSO Polonez

Ridiculed and lionised in unequal measure, the Polonez hits 45 in May…

Regarded as one of the cult cars of the PRL period, the FSO Polonez celebrates its 45th birthday on May 3rd. Created to succeed the Fiat 125p (a.k.a. the Maluch), its production continued right the way up until 2002. Designed by an Italian team from FIAT, a

silver-coloured prototype was personally approved by Prime Minister Piotr Jaroszewicz in 1976. Following this, seven copies were assembled in Turin before being shipped to Poland – here, principally in Warsaw’s FSO factory, the car entered mass-production.

First rolling-out on the anniversary of the Polish constitu-

tion, in all over one million were manufactured, among them FSO Polonez station wagons, camper vans and trucks. In fact, versions were even produced to serve as ambulances and police cars – withdrawn from service in 2009, long-term expats still fondly remember being able to out-run such vehicles during Poland’s wild 90s.

Named after the polonaise – a name chosen via a readers’ poll conducted by Życie Warszawy – by the 1990s it had become the most stolen car in the country. Retired on April 22nd, 2002, to this day around 30,000 can be found torturing the streets of Poland.

COMING

May

HAPPENING THIS MONTH

THE MARKET COME’TH!

Still feeling as fresh and exciting as when it first premiered in 2016, Nocny Market brings together dozens of food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-fun collection of ethnic cook-up spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of hollering strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some crazy-patterned Warsaw-themed socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. Set on a disused train platform lit by funky strips of neon, this weekend market-party is a social phenomenon that’s enshrined in local legend.

Nocny Market

Insider Intel

Back to the 50s: pictured this page, Pl. Politechniki and Pl. Konstytucji in 1951. Opposite page, swarms of people ebb down Marszałkowska as part of May Day celebrations in 1968

Whereas the origins

of workers’ parades to coincide with May Day can be traced to the times of the Industrial Revolution, it was the Communist era that saw the celebration of May 1st become “a nationwide ritual”. As early as 1945, ceremonies and parades were organised in cities and villages, and these essentially became stage-managed propaganda events designed to underscore the mass-acceptance of the Communist system.

Enshrined as a statutory holiday in 1950, it was from that point onwards that the day took on an even greater meaning. Naturally, as the centre of power, all eyes fell on Warsaw. By that stage, though, the almost surreal nature of the day had already become

Calling May Day

If today’s May 1st holiday is little more than a day off to be spent in the sun, in previous years it wielded an altogether different significance…

apparent – the previous year, the country faced a ‘red cloth deficit’ having already used so much fabric for previous marches and celebrations. With over 1.2 million sq/m of red fabric required, the lack of red cloth for banners became such an urgent issue that it was discussed at the highest level.

The absurdities relating to May Day were not lost on the mathematician Hugo Steinhaus. Writing in his diary, he observed: “the firefighter’s ladder no longer leaves the University of Technology as it is constantly needed to hang or take down various flags and banners. No-one knows anymore if this is a celebration

of peace, friendship, labour or some tragic buffoonery.”

Described by some as being the equivalent of “Communism’s name day”, the importance of May 1st found itself accelerated towards the end of the 1940s when the PPR and PPS merged to form one single entity, the PZPR (Polish United Workers’ Party). With this, came a top-down manipulation of the holiday.

Defined by its extravagantly coordinated marches, dress rehearsals were held weeks in advance and careful attention was

paid to the size and content of both portraits and placards that people carried – for instance, images of Poland’s leader, Bierut, could not be larger than those of Stalin.

The most curious aspect, though, was the sub-division of parading columns. Split by profession, columns of miners would march in their overalls and helmets, fishermen would carry nets, and doctors and nurses would be resplendent in their pristine white coats. As if to add to the bizarre scene, floats and models were also introduced –

for example, builders would haul giant scale models of the constructions they had worked on; representing their confectionary factory, other diligent marchers would carry a giant chocolate bar lofted overhead.

In this way says Dr. Piotr Osęka, “living allegories of ideological virtues and values were created.” Used to demonstrate the modernity, power and unity of the Communist world, today these sham parades survive only as a memory to be viewed as a slightly puzzling throwback curiosity.

6 8

5

4 2 3

Mokotowska 7

Utopian Landscapes

Later spinning down to pass the House of the Party on Nowy Świat 6/12, originally Warsaw’s May Day parade would simply ebb down Marszałkowska. With swathes of this geographical area taking shape in the decade after the war, join us for a look at some of the architectural highlights saved over from this time.

MDM

Formally completed in 1952, the MDM estate – centred around Pl. Konstytucji – teems with mosaic plafonds and reliefs of working class heroes designed by the likes of Karol Tchorek and Franciszek Habdas. Most visible, though, are the trio of soaring street lamps that resemble outsized candelabra. Originally, these were to hold statues of Stalin. Later, other plans were mooted for three monuments that would symbolise Warsaw, the Polish coast and the region of Silesia.

1. Mokotowska 4/6

NEXT BY KEVIN DEMARIA

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD AND

3. Koszykowa 34/50

Cast your eyes upwards and you’ll make out – below the protective netting – a trio of stone musicians sculpted by Józef Gosławski. Added in 1952, a tight deadline meant that the sculptor recruited his brother and wife to help him realise the project. Later finding fame as the man behind the Chopin monument in Żelazowa Wola, his Koszykowa work is flanked by two other groups of statues representing the fine arts and literature.

4. Piękna 28

A.k.a. the KFC building, visit here not for a Zinger, but to gaze up at the reliefs by Ludwika Nitschowa. In these, bare-chested workers lay bricks, bang hammers and wield gigantic wrenches as they strive to build a Utopian Warsaw. Fittingly, the Museum of Life Under Communism is jammed right above.

5. Wilcza 33 & 35

These two buildings were a cornerstone of the MDM development and still carry perfectly preserved elements of the past. Look up and you’ll view a relief depicting a peasant woman picking grapes (an allusion to the Bacchus wine store that operated below), and on the other side, an intricate mosaic set under a giant clock face produced in Sopot and then transported piece-by-piece to Warsaw.

6. Wspólna 62

Initially a 15-storey skyscraper was planned for this spot, a plan that was soon abandoned by the architect Marek Leykam. His cube-like building was capped by a dome – though nothing special from the outside, inside references to the Italian Renaissance abound with a circular inner courtyard fringed by Roman-style columns. Famously home to a bomb shelter, this was later turned into the Ground Zero nightclub during Warsaw’s wild 90s. Others, meanwhile, will recall this address as the first home of the epic Warsaw Tortilla Factory!

7. PKiN

No rundown of the centre’s Soc Realist treasures can overlook the Palace of Culture, and whilst Stalin’s Wedding Cake is an obvious pick, it’s not short on hidden details: for instance, outside, a podium from which parades would be watched by gathered dignitaries. Inside, secrets include mazes of underground tunnels kept rodent free by a team of 19 cats, not to mention lesser-known glories such as a quite stunning swimming pool.

8. Wspólna 30

Built between 1951 and 1955, the Ministry of Agriculture almost defies description. With its colonnades reputedly referencing Saski Palace, the outsized dimensions are all the more awkward for being hemmed in by the tenements opposite – originally, these were to be demolished and turned into a plaza leading to the ministry.

INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

Coming Up

Swing into the Art Box Experience an immersive celebration of Monet and other impressionist legends such as Renoir, Cassatt, Cezanne, Manet and Boudin. Consisting of nearly one and a half million video frames and 3,000 cubic metres of projections, it’s set to be one of the city’s biggest attractions of the season. After, scope out the newly-launched Amar Beirut, a huge Lebanese-Middle Eastern restaurant that looks set to become on the summer’s biggest hits. And if you’re about on May 27th, check-in to the Bio Bazar for their artisanal cheese fair.

NORBLIN FACTORY

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, the swanky MOXO bar-club crossover, and the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

JOIN THE CLUB

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building at intervals), it

In May

As we won’t tire of mentioning, visit Gatsby cocktail bar every Wednesday at 7 p.m. for English-language standnights as performed by The Comedy Hole collective. Elektrownia, though, are even more famous for their ‘slow fairs’. Running from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and May 27th and May 28th, the summer edition of the Jestem Slow market will showcase crafts, fashion, jewellery and accessories from 120 Polish artisans.

Get The App!

Designed to make your life a whole lot easier, download the Food Hall app from Elektrownia’s website to order your favourite dishes in advance from the 13 F&B concepts presented in the food hall.

later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fuelled Blue Cactus.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belonging to the portfolio of

In May

Ongoing until May 28th, visit the Museum of Fantastic Art to view pieces by some of the biggest names in the field: Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, Wiesław Wałkuski, Dariusz Zawadzki, Jacek Szynkarczuk, and Andrzej Olczyk. Of Koneser’s other events, May’s bundle of attractions include an art fair on May 13th and 14th, and a crafts fair the following weekend. However, the biggest news is the looming launch of Spółdzielnia, a casual eatery that’s already earned mythical status in Łódź.

Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favourite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year).

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

BACK STORY

Built as a market hall during Tsarist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish boxing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine

medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty authenticity and a lingering sense of history that’s appreciated by all. Note, unlike Warsaw other hubs, Gwardii is a weekend affair that’s open only from Friday through to Sunday.

F&B

There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a

farmers’ market whose gems include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers covering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without an expertly poured Guinness from The Shamrock, craft beer from San Escobar or Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Niewinność.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-all-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, the Central Bar remains the top check-in.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium.

For Culture Vultures

Koszyki has long reveled in its cultured reputation – from classical evenings to history walks and book signings, there’s rarely a dull month. In May, those wishing to broaden their horizons can do so by viewing Eternal, an exhibition of portraits taken by photographer Maksymilian Ławrynowicz. History buffs, too, will find something – head to the mezzanine between noon and 7 p.m. to watch the VR film ‘A Card from the Uprising’.

Spring has Sprung!

As per usual, Browary are leaving it late to reveal their plans for May, but do keep your eye out for two things this spring: firstly, a new, Spring-minded ‘stair mural’ decorating the steps down towards the food hall, and secondly, the opening of Question, a club that they describe as being “the most exclusive in Warsaw”. We’ll visit soon to bring you the lowdown.

Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.

Inquiries about reservations should be sent to the following e-mail address: rezerwacje@klonn.pl

ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl

Ten-years ago to the month, Warsaw changed irrevocably with the opening of Cuda Na Kiju – at last, the city had its first bona fide craft tap bar. Winning the race by a nose (within weeks it would be joined by Kufle i Kapsle and Chmielarnia), Cuda’s place in history is fondly recalled by all those that remember the earliest days of Poland’s artisan revolution.

Yet although this craft pioneer can no longer claim to be the city’s most adventurous bar, it can definitely stake a claim as its most popular. Slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters, this contemporary-minded space (15 taps, pinball machines and a super-cool spirally staircase) is capable of drawing hundreds when the warm weather hits.

With the first hint of sun, out come the deckchairs to offer ringside seats of the sun setting over Jerzolimskie. But go beyond, and into the courtyard within, and you’ll find an army of millennials spilling into the fountain and jiggling to tunes blasting from nearby bar-clubs like Newonce. The noise and numbers are insane, but despite the hedonism find bad behavior kept in check by the friendly but high-profile security presence. When most Warsaw bars feel dated and knackered within a few years of business, evergreen Cuda feels as youthful as ever. Happy birthday, kid! .

EATING HISTORY: HOTEL WARSZAWA

Continuing our ongoing series, join us as we explore the stories and the food found in Warsaw’s more historic addresses…

THEN…

As one of Warsaw’s few true Art Deco buildings, the Hotel Warszawa is an arresting sight and the numbers alone make for quite a read. Made from two million bricks, 1,500 tons of steel and 2,000 tons of concrete, this 66-metre behemoth was 15-metres taller than Warsaw’s next highest building. The figures, however, don’t tell the entire story. Completed in 1933, Europe’s second highest tower was a message to the continent that the newly independent Poland was the country of tomorrow. Known under the catch-all

moniker of the Prudential Tower, the name reflected the building’s primary use – that being the Polish HQ of Prudential’s Polish ops. Home also to lavish apartments as the country’s first TV transmitter, this 16-storey landmark became a key target when the 1944 Warsaw Uprising broke out.

Captured by the Home Army on the first day of battle, the sight of the Polish flag fluttering from the top sent morale soaring. Subsequently pounded by 1,000 German artillery rounds, including two-ton shells from the dreaded Karl-Gerat mortar,

the building still refused to topple – only when the insurgents surrendered 62-days later were the Germans able to re-enter. Restored post-war by Marcin Weinfeld, the original architect, 2018 saw it relaunched as the luxury Hotel Warszawa.

… AND NOW

Foodies know the Prudential for its two principal dining options. Unravelling amid the original foundations, Warszawska in the basement is an epic venue whose vast spaces never feel like an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, it’s a beautiful space whose interpretations of Polish food can be described as exceptional. Then, on the sixth floor, discover Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below.

Revered as one of Poland’s

brightest culinary talents, chef Dariusz Barański has honed a sophisticated menu for this restaurant that includes a standout steamed cod with velouté. For PLN 389, the six-course tasting menu allows you a better glimpse Barański’s skills.

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Foodies know the Prudential for its two principal dining options

Szóstka & Warszawska Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

PRIMER

Opened during that time when Poland was hopping in and out of lockdowns, Purr Purr didn’t have the best start in life – yet despite these significant early challenges it’s grown to become a legend of Muranów (and beyond). In fact, visit at peak times and you’re likely to be queuing just to get through the door.

FUR REAL!

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When you’re there, check also their collection of cassettes played on the lo-fi stereo system

In Purr Purr, feline good is good enough…

A PET PROJECT

Meet Piotr and Kim, a Polish-Asian couple that live two floors above Purr Purr. “She’s basically cat-addicted and crazy about these little furballs,” explains Piotr. “As for me, I’m a cat lover but also someone that can’t start the day without coffee.” With five cats of their own, it was Kim that drew up a business plan for a café filled with cute little moggies. “She showed it to me,” says Piotr, “and I was, like, wow, that’s pretty cool.” The rest is history.

LOOK

Purr Purr divides itself into two distinct segments – for openers, you’ve got a standard café-eatery area complete with a counter and a long forest-coloured banquette running down the wall. Styled in an al-

most generically contemporary fashion (Edison bulbs, exposed piping), it's here you’ll be seated before being summoned to Part II once space allows.

PAW-SOME

What is Part II, you may ask –that’s the cat cave. Accessed via a mesh gate, find yourself ushered into a space cheerfully decorated with various shelves, steps, nooks and cushions. It’s here that the cats snoop and nap, and they’ll leave you in no doubt as to who’s actually boss. With guests guided by a strict set of rules (no flash photos, spray hands after cat contact, no kids under 12, etc., etc.), the environment is kept stress-free and comfortable for the animals. Filled with endearing touches like cuddly toys and a faux maple tree, it’s casual, relaxed and

purr-fect for its role.

DRINKS & NIBBLES

Obviously, the cats are the star attraction, but this spot would fare equally well were the animals to down tools and declare a strike. Going beyond the ordinary, drinks include specialty coffee from HAYB, craft swigs from the likes of Funky Fluid and Brokreacja, Korean vodka, Choyu plum wine, house lemonades and a dynamic choice of cocktails such as the Fizzy Meow Daquiri (plum wine, yuzu puree, soda). Food is also a hit: we enjoyed the tornado bibimbap with bulgogi beef, though other choices number a range of fluffy Japanese pancakes, onigiri and Korean handrolls. As fun and friendly as it all appears to be, they’re dead serious about the quality.

A Champion’s League

As a world champion barista and one of the most titled coffee professionals in the world, Agnieszka Rojewska has seen and done it all – and now, she’s sharing this knowledge at Sheep & Raven, her own roastery and store in the heart of Wola…

Benchmarked against the other cities and countries that you visit, where does Warsaw –and Poland – stand?

Warsaw is far ahead of the rest of Poland, and I’d say there’s probably around 10 to 15 coffee shops run by real professionals. As a city, it’s very close to Berlin’s coffee scene. If there’s a concern, it’s that many survive through the sale of things other than coffee. One thing I’ve also noticed is that we don’t really have all that many coffee-based beverages. In places like Australia and the States, people are playing more with their coffee and that’s a great way to attract new people who otherwise wouldn’t be interested in specialty coffee. We do need more signature drinks.

What is the thinking behind Sheep & Raven?

A lot of coffee professionals are creating their own brands, just like coffee shops are starting to roast their own coffee. This is a very natural evolutionary step. Even so, there’s not many places where you can buy coffee and talk to a real person about it. I’ve worked hard to be considered an expert, but I sense that at times people are a little intimidated to ask my opinion – when they see me in person though, they relax a little more. It’s important to make a genuine connection with people and I think that’s what Sheep & Raven is about.

Explain the name!

I didn’t want to attach my own name to the brand as I realize that people outside Poland struggle to say it. There’s also two of us behind the business, and we have very different methods and points of view. One is very precise and organized and the other… not so. We’re opposites. That’s how the name Black Sheep and White Raven came about. It was shortened for convenience but I think it really captures who we are.

What kind of coffee are you selling?

First, I want to showcase the coffee that I enjoy. Put simply, I’m not going to stand behind anything that I personally would not drink myself. There is some that comes with a premium price, but it does have a genuine stamp of quality. Of course, there are also more accessible coffees that I think are really worth trying and these are also on sale.

How can people make better coffee at home?

Two things stand out – if you grind before you brew you’re going to level-up straight away. Second, water is crucial. Coffee is 92% to 98% water, so if you’re in a building with bad water then it's going to have an impact. If you’re water is too hard, too soft or too acidic you’re going to have a lot of bitterness. There are ways around this though, like for example using a low-mineral water like Żywiec Krysztal. If you’ve got an espresso machine, then bear in mind that fresh coffee does have a lifespan. In much the same way that artisanal bread will go stale, you’ll find good coffee going from being very expressive to flat. It’s the same kind of process as bread, just a slower pace.

Speaking of bad coffee, is there any coffee that you would refuse to drink?

I do find people are scared to make me coffee, but I’m not judgmental anymore – I’ll drink what I’m given and won’t make a scene! Honestly, I’m happy to drink capsule coffee, standard hotel coffee or from a petrol station. When you think about it, petrol stations are Poland’s biggest source of coffee. Professionally, it’s actually good for me to see what people are drinking – by understanding what they want, I can then work to give a similar flavour range but a better quality.

Sheep & Raven

Siedmiogrodzka 3/u8, sheepandraven.com

Catrina

TACO 'BOUT A FIESTA

As Cinco de Mayo approaches, join us for a look at the city’s top Mexican haunts…

Blue Cactus

Elektrownia Powiśle & Fabryka

Norblin

They say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Though contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. It vibes well but it eats even better – the tacos and burritos never disappoint.

WE LOVE

The culinary vision gazes way beyond the standard to present ‘Tex-Mex tartare’ and other curiosities – meanwhile, former mainstays have been tweaked and improved.

La Sirena

Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavours and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. On the down side, portions and prices appear to grow further apart by the week.

WE LOVE

The cocktails here are inventive, exciting and expertly made and contribute to the social evening air.

Momencik

Poznańska 16

You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their excellence that this meat-free establishment easily out-runs most of the ‘proper’ Mexicans in Warsaw. Looking pokey, this sweaty subterranean den has a limited but excellent choice of tacos, burritos and flautas.

WE LOVE

We would happily drink an ocean of their pineapple salsa and still ask for more.

Santa

Santa Catrina

Radna 14

Themed on Día de Muertos, the simple design makes use of copious floral additions and jaunty skull decorations based on José Guadalupe Posada’s prints of La Calavera Catrina. The work of Isabel Balderas, her food has even come endorsed by Juan Sandoval, Mexico’s Ambassador to Poland.

WE LOVE

The air of authenticity. Cliché as the interior may look, it’s comforting to find it drowned in Latin American accents.

Senor Lucas

Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best. Though dealing out nothing more than burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats singing with peppy salsas, for many this spot can’t be beat.

STOP PRESS!

Just as we went to print, Senor Lucas announce the opening of a proper sit-down venue on Poznańska 26.

Taco Loco

Jana Pawła 45A

Lit by a green neon cactus in the window, Taco Loco looks cheap and cheerful so the big surprise here is

that it out-punches many of Warsaw’s more high income Mexican venues. The chili-jalapeno poppers have that perfect crispy, gooey bite, and there’s little faulting the tacos and burritos.

WE LOVE

The salsas go beyond the call of duty – for something that sends a brief electric current down your spine, order the Carolina RIP.

Senor Lucas

Taco Loco

Blue Cactus

La Sirena

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The chili-jalapeno poppers have that perfect crispy, gooey bite, and there’s little faulting the tacos and burritos

SISTER ACT

An unpolished jewel, Młodsza Siostra is the courtyard secret that everyone needs to know…

WHAT’S IN THE NAME

Translated to mean ‘younger sister’, you’d be right to ask that if this is the little un’, then who’s the older one? That is (or was), Eufemia, a cult bar that we previously described as being “furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room.” When it closed six-years ago, Warsaw lost a legend. However, a new one was born when the owner, Michał Grochowiak, decided to give the bar game another crack with Młodsza Siostra.

WHERE AM I

There’s more to Powiśle than loft apartments and fancy bakeries. Harking to edgier times, Młodsza Siostra finds

itself smuggled inside a scruffy courtyard fringed by seedy-looking lock-up garages. To find it, you need to know it’s there, but this ‘destination’ aspect ensures that it attracts “the right kind of people” – i.e., those that have sought it out rather than random passing punters. This is by no means a small point, and has helped this spot maintain its artsy integrity.

ON FACE VALUE

With temperatures rising, many will choose to sit on the wooden decking outside –with the trees and vegetation coming into bloom, the scrappy backdrop takes on the kind of vibe found in some of the shadowy courtyards of Kraków, Berlin and Budapest. Stepping

Młodsza Siostra Dobra 14/16, fb.com/mlodszasiostra89

inside, and there’s two rooms to choose from, both of which tout creaking floorboards and wobbly, mismatched furnishings. Invariably, you’ll see dogs curled up on the floor and a cross-section of Warsaw intelligentsia locked in meaningful conversation.

F & B

Food-wise, this place fares very well indeed with a small Asian-inspired menu knocking out surprises such as okonomiyaki pancakes. For liquid pleasures, the two fridges – set behind a pine-panelled bar decorated with retro throwbacks like a tacky painting of a schooner – feature a small but welcome choice of alternative colas and Polish craft brews.

TUNES

At times a little claustrophobic, the dimensions lend themselves well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals and super cool jazz evenings to concerts from the likes of the Death Addict Society. Recognized as one of the city’s best spaces for more niche and underground sounds. Known for his ear for upcoming talent, the owner Michał isn’t averse to taking risks in order to broaden Warsaw’s musical palate. When you’re there, check also their collection of cassettes played on the lo-fi stereo system.

ANYTHING ELSE

Festooned with unruly plants, gig stickers and graffiti squig-

gles, the toilet is an intense (and occasionally squelchy) experience – it feels half-bombsite, half arts installation. In some ways, you could say it captures the full rawness of the Young Sister’s feisty spirit. As bar’s go, there’s not one thing here that we’d improve on – it’s a beauty!

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When you’re there, check also their collection of cassettes played on the lo-fi stereo system

TAKING CENTRE STAGE

Moving to a more central GPS, The Eatery’s migration is good news for the city…

Looking back at 2021, one of our undisputed gastro highlights was the discovery of The Eatery. Among other words, we called it “bloody brilliant”, “fabulous”, and “the most unexpected surprise of the year”. Yep, we enjoyed it. But

how many times did we return?

You’ve guessed it: a big, fat zero.

As per the old real estate cliché, it’s all about ‘location, location, location’, and that was the one thing lacking where The Eatery was concerned – set in Warsaw’s far eastern hinterlands, it was only convenient if you had

access to a chopper. So how’s this for good news: moving earlier in the year, The Eatery now has an address that couldn’t be more central if it tried.

THE WHERE…

Planted in a courtyard between Pl. Konstytucji and elegant

Lwowska, The Eatery’s Koszykowa address is an enviable one. Counting Uki Green and Back Room Bar among its neighbours, this renovated pre-war building already has no shortage of on-edge check-ins. The addition of The Eatery to this attractive off-street space feels like the final feather-in-the-cap.

THE LOOK

Swathed in white-on-white colours, The Eatery feels almost holistic in its vibe. With the blinds drawn down – even in daytime – you’re left to bask in an atmosphere that feels blissfully cocooned from the outside world. Decorated with orb-like installations and splashes of dappled granite surfaces, it looks chic and elegant yet also casual and welcoming. What could easily have become a sterile, laboratory-style space feels anything but. For more private moments, meanwhile, reserve the downstairs chamber – a nook that’s well segregated from the main dining room on ground level.

THE FOOD

Modern Polish is the official line with products sourced from cult foodie hunting grounds such as the Szembeka market. Succinct in its size, the menu is about finessed compositions that riff in tune with the prevailing look. Deeply enjoyable, we started with panko-crusted potato served with creamy cottage cheese, charlock and chives, a dish inspired by the culinary heritage of Poznań. With mains, it's hard not to be impressed by the pork cheeks, served with a fittingly punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquefied peas and red

cabbage. And praise the lord when it comes to dessert – in our case, a deliciously runny cranberry kissel crowned with cream and cotton-like strands of halvah.

THE BILL

The move to the city centre has not impacted the prices – in terms of Value For Money, it’s hard to think of another Warsaw restaurant that delivers so much at quite the same cost. On our visit at least, there was nothing marked beyond the PLN 50 barrier, a miracle given the inflationary pressures faced by all.

THE VERDICT

The Eatery have maintained the same excellence as before, and perhaps even finessed it a little. With no identifiable weak points, this fully deserves to become one of Warsaw’s true champions. Moreover, it feels ideal for multi-purpose: whether that be date night, a business bash or, in our case, a hit-and-run meal on a drizzly afternoon. Whatever your needs, The Eatery fulfils them.

The Eatery Koszykowa 49A, theeatery.pl

THE POLISH REVOLUTION

You wouldn’t say it had flatlined, but a couple of years ago you would have been forgiven for accusing Warsaw’s wine scene of getting a little sleepy – if you were a wine bar, it was all about selling big labels to big businessmen. And if this was done in somewhere that looked like a warehouse, then so much the better. Frankly, it was all a bit boring.

Step into the present, and things couldn’t be more different. Buoyed by the success of such venues as Natural Rascal and Niewinność, a new generation has come to view wine as not something snuck away for formal occasions, but as a libation to be enjoyed at every opportunity. Now, add Brać to the list of frontline pioneers.

Focused on highlighting the wines of Poland, this alone says much for the boldness of their concept. As resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać rip-up the rule book to present on-edge sips from niche producers you’ve probably never heard of. Being here is an education, and just by ordering you’re joining the revolution.

But if you think Brać is just about wine, you’re missing the point – Brać is about Poland, not just the country’s wine. That’s why the menu reveals regional beers, locally roasted coffee and small-batch spirits. And then there’s the small matter of food – featuring artisanal cheese plates, cured meats and itsy little sandwiches, everything you order celebrates the magical nature of Poland’s fields, forests, farms and lakes.

By thrusting domestic wines into the spotlight, Brać rip-up convention and do something special…

Bathed in a rich, red neon glow, it looks pretty divine as well – chic and stylish but with hints of retro flair. Alongside the street art doodles of Kamil Lach, find PRL era cabinets sparingly decorated with jumble sale finds (e.g. a plastic dinosaur). Wonderful in its mood, style and playful spirit, Brać has the qualities to become one of the capital’s most relevant bars – and that’s even taking into account the slightly incongruous location within a slightly soulless residential compound. After all, revolutions have to begin somewhere – why not here?

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Focused on highlighting the wines of Poland, this alone says much for the boldness of their concept

The Buzz

Discover the best culinary experiences in town with The Buzz! We have scoured the city to bring you the hottest restaurants, bars, and cafes. From trendy hotspots to hidden gems, our reviews will guide you to gastronomic bliss. PICK OF THE MONTH

Dal Dalla Gelato

Leszczyńska 4

Working on a trial and error approach, Luca Dalla Costa mixes Venetian techniques with the freshest ingredients to create a magic world where weaknesses don’t exist – at least, we haven’t found any. Even making their own savoiardi biscuits for their tiramisu ice cream, the passion is only beaten by the quality of the end product.

FORMAL & EXTRAORDINARY Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

EXQUISITE

Nolita

Wilcza 46

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died.

FOR THE TASTING MENU

Rozbrat 20

Rozbrat 20

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

DATE NIGHT

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an iFocusing

labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a decked courtyard terrace for when its not.

WINE & DINE Dyletanci

Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

NEW WAVE

hub.praga

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

MICHELIN CONTENDER

Nuta

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Let Andrea Camastra take you into the realms of the spectacular at what we figure to be Poland’s finest dining experience. His dizzying takes on Polish classics simply are unbelievable in both taste and composition. Sophisticated but never ceremonial, this restaurant is a banger.

FINE DINING

Europejski Grill

Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the

contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

LEGENDARY LUNCH DEAL

Muzealna

Jerozolimskie 3

Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether

OPEN TO BOOKINGS

Book a table at any time of day or night, even when the restaurant is closed.

regions of the National Museum is sprinkled with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. Chef Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington! The lunch deal is a steal.

ALL-ROUNDER

Browar Warszawski

Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

The app and platform for table reservations. Easy and convenient to use, with the ability to send invitations to friends, reminders, an overview of all reservations, and an active map with restaurants in the area where tables can be reserved.

The Buzz

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as tiny antique details. While most visit for the house-brewed beer, the upscale gastro-pub menu has many moments of excellence.

THE BLOGGERS FAVE

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast.

NEW POLISH

Źródło

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence.

WELCOME TO POLAND

Polana Smaków

E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

BREAD & BREAKFASTS

Baken

Żurawia 6/12

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette.

BAGELS & COFFEE

Serso

Szanajcy 16

To find this little heaven, you need to head from the beaten track. Located in an ascetic space inside a Socialist Realist block, the bagel combos veer from classic to creative and twin well with their specialty coffee. Early closing hours attest to the popularity they have gained.

CASUAL SCENE

Bibenda

Nowogrodzka 10

Preserving the pre-war heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the now meat-free menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers.

GARDEN BITES

Klonn

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its

components. The flavours are a fantasy of skill.

STAR SUSHI

Noriko

Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi experience the country has ever seen – we’ll bring you our full review next issue.

THAI FLAVOURS

Ahaan

Unii Lubelskiej 1

Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion.

RED HOT INDIAN

Guru

Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is –head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits we;; with the meaty skewers.

VIETNAMESE ZAP

Viet Street Food Bistro

Królowej Aldony 5/2

What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit down space – the grassy back garden is a true summer pleasure. The huge bowls of pho are a wise order to make, though our standard in this busy neighbourhood eatery is the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce.

PERFECT PIZZA

Pollypizza NEOpolitan

Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

SEAFOOD ADVENTURES

Tuna

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish,

Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes.

HARDCORE CARNIVORE

Mięsny

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

CLINCH THE DEAL

Butchery & Wine

Żurawia 22

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a

ESSENTIAL CHECK-IN

Happa To Mame

Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also include dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds.

steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital and is ideal for expense account feasting.

THE UNEXPECTED MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with new media types.

SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR Ceviche Bar

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default

The Buzz

order, and here its served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails.

A VEGAN THRILLER

Dziki Królik

Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka’s involves Warsaw’s best tacos and more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon.

CITY CENTRE VEGAN

Peaches Gastro Girls

Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

VEGAN BRUNCH

Lychees

Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles.

VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop

Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II

52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving

“the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style.

CRAFT BEERS & FOOD

Syty Chmiel

Marszałkowska 10/16

Though undeniably large, intimacy isn’t short in supply, and that’s down to the comfortable armchairs, atmospheric lo-lighting and personal trinkets that reflect the passions of the owners (skateboards, for instance). The taps

offer a rotation of craft goodness, but just as many people gather for the food of Pan Tasak: his menu is a sincere celebration of Poland’s rural greatness.

OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty

Vis-a-Vis

Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of

NATURAL WINES

Rascal

Moliera 6

Reputedly Europe’s largest bar specialising in natural wines, this former canteen for ballet dancers is one of the hottest addresses in town – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers encamped here. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, the interior is a chic work that’s outdone only by the Insta-friendly garden.

the mainstream fizz peddled by the other nearby bars.

BEER GEEKS

Jabeerwocky

Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior.

THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT

Kufle i Kapsle

Nowogrodzka 25

Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw.

POLISH SUPER BREWS

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-coloured Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

CASUAL WINEY EVENINGS

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more

in line with entering your favorite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and zaps of neon.

FUN-FLIRTY NIGHTS

Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

RETRO HIP

Paloma Inn

Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colour tones and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails.

VENETIAN ALLURE

Va Bene Cicchetti

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these include six interpretations of the negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks.

A SOPHISTICATED TOP SHELF

Aura

Hoża 27

Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging –promoting the heavy use of

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!

ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

BEST o f

W ARS AW Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

20 20

The Buzz

swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Fitting into a tiny nook, Aura’s other big sell-point is their collection of bourbon.

COCKTAILS WITH STYLE

Zaremba

Nowogrodzka 15

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto a compact interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with sophisticated drinks crafted from premium components.

INSIDER CLASSIC NIGHT

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched!

FOR THE MUSIC

Chmury / Hydrozagadka

11 Listopada 22

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Beirut & Kraken

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll

find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

STUDENT CARNAGE Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos.

IRISH MAYHEM

The Shamrock

Zgoda 5

Little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign, the atmosphere compensates for the aesthetic shortcomings. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis behind the bar –high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

ALT. ENTERTAINMENT

Worek Kości

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are great. THE

PRAGA VIBE W

Oparach W Absurdu

Ząbkowska 6

Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar. Exploring this musty space is an adventure in itself.

NORTHERN NIGHTS

Havana Słowackiego 16/18

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters. In summer, the terrace is the place to be.

A CHIC NIGHT OUT Piano Bar

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Dazzling with its 12-foot chandelier, the Gatsby vibe is given added oomph by a design that makes use of chessboard floors and wisely-chosen extras. The program of concerts elevate the weekend atmosphere with funk and blues jams something of a forte.

SOMETHING FOR ALL Foton

Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to

a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steelframed irrigational contraptions.

EXPERIMENTAL COFFEE

Cophi

Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale.

COFFEE & CAKE

Tonka

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent, but tastes even better when tested alongside

Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes.

COFFEE OF LEGEND

Stor

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy.

FOR DIGITAL NOMADS

Typika

Kolejowa 47

Espousing the Japandi style (an amalgam of Japanese and Scandinavian should your brain not be working), Typika’s floor-to-ceiling windows bathe this fashionably stark, split-level space in light no matter the season. Sparingly decorated, the blonde wood furnishings (check the blob-shaped table!) and

NEW & NOTABLE

Gemba

Chmielna 21

Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, this inclusive space draws a crowd that’s late 20s upwards. There’s a hell of a lot to enjoy here: craft beers, strange cocktails, Polish tapas, DJ sets, jazz jams and ‘drag bingo’ serve to only reinforce that impression.

neon deer further emphasize the natural, refreshing feel.

PRAGA COFFEE

Trzy Kruki

Pl. Hallera 8

The outsized dimensions have seen the stern original pillars and sky-high ceilings softened by orblike lamps and leafy succulents. Minimalistic in its design, here the atmosphere of the People’s Republic clashes head-on with the creative, liberal mindset that defines modern Warsaw.

CHAMPION BREWS

Forum

Elektoralna 11

Forum has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, a friendly dog nuzzling around (hi Apollo!), and a client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get. Marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, these accolades say everything there is to know.

FAMILY FESTIVAL

May 27 - 28

5 years of community building

5 years of respecting history

5 years of helping

5 years of successful partnership with City Hall

Open Friday through Sunday

Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1

halagwardii.pl

RISING FROM THE RUBBLE

Rubble is awarded hero status as the Museum of Warsaw’s newest exhibition…

In terms of domestic history, few subjects have been covered in as much depth as Warsaw’s cataclysmic destruction and subsequent rebuilding. In fact, with Berlin surrendering just one day before, the first exhibition to document the Polish capital’s wartime fate opened on May 3rd, 1945 in the ruins of the National Museum.

Titled ‘Warsaw Accuses’, it would later be taken on the road to such cities as London, Paris, Prague, New York and Tokyo. Met with widespread acclaim, few visitors could have been anything but shocked: with 84% of the city’s left side in complete ruin, the touring exhibition left little to the imagination.

Titled ‘Rising from the Rubble’, the Museum of Warsaw’s latest temporary exhibition begins with a nod to ‘Warsaw Accuses’ and, much like its forebearer, starts with the intention to jolt visitors to attention. Entering, one is met by smashed masonry recovered from the ruins – most noticeable of all, a cherub with his face scratched and nose missing peers from the debris.

However, this exhibition should not be considered a repeat of all that have come before. Unique in many ways, its focus instead spotlights the role of rubble – from how it was removed in the early days, to how it was reconstituted to form building materials. With this angle used as the narrative core, the direction taken is thoroughly unorthodox.

Left buried under 22 million cubic metres of rubble, we learn how the city’s outlook towards it evolved over time. First considered a waste material that

needed to be removed, it later came to be reassessed and used for rebuilding. “Ultimately,” says curator Adam Przywara, “rubble became a symbol of hard collective labour – it showed that there was a bright future for Warsaw and the entire country.”

As expected, lumps of brick and shattered stone abound, but these are offset by more visually enticing artefacts such as fragmented stove tiles extracted from the ruins of the Old Town, Royal Castle and Saski Palace, as well as, towards the end, staggeringly beautiful porcelain tableware. In between, visitors will also view a typical smock worn by labourers, a modern art installation crafted from tangled cables, and dramatic paintings by such Socialist Realist luminaries as Wojciech Fangor.

In all, 500 relics can be found

spread across seven rooms, but it is not these that are most compelling, rather the archive photographs and accompanying text boards. Absorbing in every respect, the ensuing images and words narrow in on different topics – from the role of women to favoured demolition methods. Equally fascinating, pause also to take in a map of buildings created from rubble-concrete: for instance, the Ministry of Development and Technology at Trzech Krzyży Square.

With Warsaw’s Old Town celebrating its 70th anniversary of reconstruction later this year, this exhibition comes at just the right time. By offering a fresh and novel perspective on a topic that has already been widely broached, the Museum of Warsaw delivers an impactful experience high on educational insights. This is not to be missed.

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasto 32, muzeumwarszawy.pl

“

In all, 500 relics can be found spread across seven rooms, but it is not these that are most compelling, rather the archive photographs and accompanying text boards

Calling Vienna!

Globetrotting food critic Robert Makłowicz is the inspiration behind the new menu at the iconic Hotel Bristol, Warsaw

Having explored Lyon in April, this month takes Robert – and our diners – to Vienna. Available at lunch and dinner, this Viennese-inspired menu promises to be one to remember!

For more information, see: www.restauracjamarconi.pl

NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Now in its 19th year, the Night of Museums has grown from a minor event (the first edition saw a paltry 16,000 people visit 11 venues) to a mighty juggernaut attracting well in excess of 200,000 people. Held on May 13th, this edition will see over 200 museums, galleries and public (and not so public) institutions throw open their doors through the evening with a host of special, one-off events, concerts and reenactments lending a sense of something special.

The Warsaw Rising Museum

ALL-TIME CLASSIC National Museum

Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art. For many, though, the museum’s ace card is the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy that features everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Then there’s the world class Gallery of Ancient Art. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, find papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy!.

COMMUNIST TIMES Museum of Life Under Communism

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story.

Neon Museum

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), houses several dozen such neons that once lit up Poland. The visuals here are stunning.

UNEXPECTED TREASURES

Car Museum

Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy)

Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Fotoplastikon

Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background.

Train Museum

Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. The best is saved for the cemetery of decommissioned trains outside. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut.

LOCAL HEROES

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the

museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

Legia Warszawa Museum

Łazienkowska 3

Marketed as Poland's biggest football club, this museum seeks to affirm Legia’s status with the expected spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son –80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Benefiting from a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file.

What’s On

While pretty much all venues had yet to reveal their plans at press time, keep an eye out for the comprehensive guidebook published by City Hall in the days leading up to NoM. Available in print (both in Polish-language copies and English) and online in PDF format (um. warszawa.pl/nocmuzeow), this essential booklet lists all participating venues and associated events. It’s nothing short of a magnum opus and absolutely vital to your enjoyment of the evening!

VARSAVIANA

Dom Spotkań z Historią Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

Museum of Praga

Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders.

Museum of Warsaw

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone.

Out And About

As always, the city will be rolling out a fleet of vintage vehicles to get you from A to B for free! Expect historic trams to be tootling around, as well as antiquated Ikarus and Ogórek buses (sonamed on account of their gherkin-style shape). These are expected to run from 6.30 p.m. till 2 a.m.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw

Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Highlights are many but include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Wola Museum

Srebrna 12, muzeumwoli.muzeumwarszawy.pl

What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area – currently, that means an exhibition dedicated to the iconic local drag queen Kim Lee!

FAMILY

ArtBox Experience

Żelazna 51/53, artboxexperience. com

Found on the upper floors of Fabryka Norblin, this multimedia ‘immersive space’ has already showcased some memorable exhibitions, not least its presentation of colourised old Warsaw photos. Right now, the great impressionist artists of old that have been given the immersive treatment.

Copernicus Science Centre

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20 Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Dollhouse Museum

Podwale 15, muzeumdomkow.pl

Over 120 intricate dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore.

NATIONAL INTEREST

Ethnographic Museum

Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc.

Museum of Technology

Pl. Defilad 1, nmt.waw.pl

Born in the 1950s, but given a recent and spectacular refit, there’s a gold mine of oddities here relating to Poland’s contribution to world science and engineering – for example, bits and pieces honouring Poland’s computing history and a whole fleet of old motorbikes and cars, all of which are beautifully presented.

POLIN

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. Coinciding with the 80th anniversary of the Ghetto Uprising, the temporary exhibition tells the story of the rebellion from a civilian perspective.

Polish Vodka Museum

Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed.

Royal Łazienki Museum

Agrykola 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl

The city’s most spectacular park also features a string of museums in its elegant outbuildings and palaces. Among these are the artworks inside the Palace on the Isle collected by the country’s last king.

Wilanów Palace

Kostki Potockiego 10/16, wilanowpalac.pl

Commonly-known as the Polish Versailles, first visit the baroque era gardens before then stepping through the King’s former apartments and living quarters.

MODERN ART

Center of Contemporary Art (CSW) Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces in Poland –and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself.

Museum on the Vistula

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, currently, one dedicated to the works of Aleksandra Waliszewska.

Zachęta National Art Gallery

Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta. art.pl

Consistently challenging our perception of “what art is”, the Zachęta’s reputation precedes itself: a bastion of contemporary art, its ever-changing lineup of exhibitions have presented a range of Polish and international artists. Often provocative and always on-edge, this is arguably the most famous gallery in the country.

WARSAW’S WAR

The Heritage Interpretation Center

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s post-war reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the other bits do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

Pawiak Prison

Dzielna 24/26

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

The Warsaw Rising Museum

Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Dedicating to chronicling the story of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this unequivocally the most important museum in the city. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. The aftermath is also covered in detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital.

POLIN

Copernicus Science Centre

Polish Vodka Museum

JAZZ PO POLSKU

Warsaw Live Sessions

2023

07 / 05

PIOTR MATUSIK TRIO

14 / 05

PAWE Ł KACZMARCZYK TRIO

11 / 06

SIEMA ZIEMIA

18 / 06

SEBASTIAN ZAWADZKI TRIO

JASSMINE / WILCZA 73

MA-URI MASSAGE IS NOT ONLY A RELIEF FOR A TIRED BODY, BUT ALSO A REAL FEAST FOR THE SPIRIT.

A massage like no other, Polynesian massage relaxes, eases tension and helps to achieve a perfect physical and emotional balance by introducing harmony between the body, mind and spirit.

In addition, in this massage is a wonderful massage of the head, hair and face in addition to cosmetic qualities causes the "exposure" of emotions, and thus, the ordering of thoughts and strengthening of perception . Smooth movements to the rhythm of calming music give the massage harmony and balance in the human body. After the massage, you feel that you have more energy to act.

Body

& Mind massage

by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA

ul. Pełczyńskiego 28 E/lok. 24

jazzpopolsku.pl | jassmine.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, Hotel Polonia Palace + 48 798 665 254

www.lomilomi.waw.pl

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Szwoleżerów 4

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a

warsaw montessori family

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught

in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaure-

ate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

antiques

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

KOLO

What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29

LAPIDARIUM

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES

At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Moktowska 71

shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

8 Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

6 Koneser Pl.

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Konesera, koneser.eu

INSTA-TECHNIKA

Continuing our round-up of Warsaw’s most Insta-friendly spots, check-in this month to the city’s polytechnic…

If it looks beautiful from the outside, then just wait till you see what lies within. Impressing long before the advent of Insta, Warsaw’s University of Technology opened in 1901 after a team of architects had toured 11 universities in six countries seeking inspiration. Finding just that during this three-week research trip, the results still stagger to this day. Influenced by the Italian Renaissance, this capacious building is defined by a cloistered, pentagonal indoor courtyard fringed by ornate marble staircases and capped by a stunning stained glass ceiling. Teeming with trivia tidbits, it was inside this main building (Pl. Politechnika 1) that Polish professors were able to get to the bottom of Nazi Germany’s wunderwaffe secrets. As for alumni, that includes the inventor of the walkie talkie and the fictional Bond villain Ernest Stavro Blofeld. A figment of Ian Fleming’s imagination, Blofeld earned a degree from the polytechnic in Engineering and Radionic when studying here during the inter-war years.

GREY WOLF WARSAW

2022

NOWY