SIR RANULPH FIENNES | DIGITAL ART SPECIAL | PRIME PROPERTY TIMELESS INSPIRATION EDITIONANNIVERSARYYEAR 80 ISSUE
Inc ub ator . Inno vator . Disrup tor . Patro n. Modernise. Reinvent. Collec t. Inves t. DISRUPTING THE ART MARKET. INNOVATING ART AS AN INVESTMENT.
PROTECTING EVERYTHING AND
YOU HOLD DEAR INVESTIGATIONS & SURVEILLANCE TECHNICAL SURVEILLANCE COUNTER MEASURES (TSCM) FULL SECURITY AUDITS PENETRATION TESTING
Valkyrie is a specialist security organisation drawing on over 100 years of combined experience in Britain’s most elite military and intelligence units. We protect you, your families, homes and businesses by delivering high-level cyber and physical security solutions, tailored to your individual needs. Whether you are looking for a discreet and comprehensive way to safeguard your family’s interests, or you are a UK or international business looking to mitigate security risks, we are committed to building long-term, trusted relationships that you can rely on. EVERYONE
+44 (0) 20 7499 security@valkyrie.co.uk9323www.valkyrie.co.uk
Another way to look at it, as I discovered when I spoke to Sotheby’s Institute of Art’s Leo Crane, is that art is where technology and communities intersect – and digital art is about to become truly canonised in art history. Representation has never been more vital – or had such vitality. Digitalisation has made it easier for artists to take more ownership of their craft, too. Take, for example, artists like the brilliant Diana Tupilus, who is working with Pictorum Capitis to drive a purposefully and thoughtfully curated collection.
B ack in 2012, when Tempus first launched as a luxury magazine, digital art was a new concept, tied to the rise of the iPhone and burgeoning social media apps like Instagram and Snapchat. Digital art was about e-books and video games, and collaborative hackathons that saw coders and artists collide to create moments of creativity that could be shared with an online audience.
Share your thoughts by contacting us via email at info@tempusmagazine.co.uk, or visit tempusmagazine.co.uk for your daily update from the world of luxury lifestyle © 2022 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.
Looking back over 10 years of remarkable and groundbreaking disruption, we can now identify the beginnings of a movement that is shaking up the art world today. Digital disruption is no longer a future trend, but the spark that is shaping the very heart of art in this decade. Today, we’re talking web3 and the metaverse, augmented reality and NFTs. We’re talking about decentralisation of power, and the shifting sands of supply and demand that has seen technology become the launchpad from which artists, galleries and collectors can begin to highlight the most important movements and issues of our day.
is only available on iOS devices 80 ISSUE
app* 3. Hold your
6
over your copy of Tempus to watch the cover come to life To view online Simply scan the
The
Tempus Magazine is published by Vantage Media www.vantagemediagroup.co.ukLimited. VIEW DIGITALANIMATEDOURCOVER To view in AR 1. Scan the QR code on our cover or left and follow the steps to view in AR 2. When prompted, download the free
camera and follow the link to view our animated online anniversary edition * Adobe
Enjoy the issue, Michelle Johnson Editor future is now Adobe Aero camera QR code smartphone Aero
The Romanian artist fuses painting and graphic design to create a rare collection of multiplatform pieces, inspired by the diversity of cultures and individuals she has been introduced to while living in London. We are delighted to collaborate with Diana, who has created a bespoke portrait for our first ever digital cover. Find out more in our art special on page 38, and view the animated artwork in AR by following the steps below or scanning the QR code on the cover with your smartphone camera. We’re not just living in the future when it comes to art, either. Elsewhere in our new, bigger and bolder quarterly edition, we explore the intersection of fashion and technology (66), catch up with the legendary Brora distillery a year on from its fully sustainable revival (74), and speak with the world’s greatest living explorer, Sir Ranulph Fiennes, about his new documentary, Explorer (18).
on our cover or left with your
7 @tempusmagazine@tempusmagazine Contributors Tempus Magazine 25SpacesWilton Road London SW1V 1LW +44info@tempusmagazine.co.uktempusmagazine.co.uk(0)2035191005 Responsibly printed Printed by Cambrian Printers, UK on GalerieArt Matt Woodfree FSC Mix (FSC® certified paper) using vegetable inks and sustainable printing methods. www.cambrian-printers.co.uk Charlotte Bobroff JP Morgan Private Bank’s Charlotte shares the secrets to empowering female entrepreneurs (30) Rikesh Chauhan Menswear guru Rikesh tackles transitional style on page 112 and celebrates England’s Euro victory (100) Rory FH Smith Celebrating Jaguar’s Le Mans history, Rory heads on a historic road trip on page 86 Diana Tupilus Find out how London-based Romanian artist Diana created our exclusive phygital cover (36) Editorial team Editor Michelle michelle@tempusmagazine.co.ukJohnson Creative Director Ross ross@tempusmagazine.co.ukForbes Digital Editor Gabriel gabriel@tempusmagazine.co.ukPower Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith Chief Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse SalesCOMMERCIAL&Partnership Enquiries +44info@tempusmagazine.co.uk(0)2035191005 VANTAGE MEDIA Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom COVER IMAGE Lady Aura by Diana Tupilus Article on page: 38
18 A life of adventure
The England Lionesses make history at the UEFA Women’s Euro 2022
The world’s greatest explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes on his new documentary film
92 Flying high We head to Farnborough Airshow to find out how sustainability is shaping a decade of air travel
100 The beautiful game
The write move Danish entrepreneur Michael Stausholm shares the inspiration behind his plantable pencil brand
The French connection Return to the riviera in high style with our guide to the glamorous Cote d’Azur
14
The road to success
74 Still life A year after the triumphant revival of the Brora distillery, we go behind the scenes of the legend
ISSUE 80
80 CONTENTS
Written in the stars How the James Webb Space Telescope is changing the universe
30
108 Save the date The finest events of the season
50
Rhythm of life Superstar composer Lorenzo Viotti takes us inside the world of classical music
103 RE:VIEW Ochre restaurant is a cullinary work of art, plus the best shows and events
26 Back on track Step aboard the most luxurious train journeys in the world
32 A legend restored Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni on the art of modern watchmaking
86 Setting the pace Jaguar celebrates its illustrious history with Le Mans 24 Hours
10 The luxe list Our pick of the most exciting launches and must-have gifts of the season
22 Defining luxury Tempus takes the Rolls-Royce Phantom for a spin
70 Taking her time Supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio celebrates women’s watches at Omega’s Her Time exhibition
82 High & mighty Step inside the penthousse at Belvedere Gardens for jaw-dropping lesson in artistic interiors
Disruption by design Discover the trends changing the art world for ever in our exclusive special feature
36
JP Morgan Private Bank’s Charlotte Bobroff on the power of female entrepreneurs
66 Future-proof fashion How the world of fashion became ever more high-tech
112 Whatever the weather Menswear expert Rikesh Chauhan guides us through the tricky transitional months
60 10 x 10 As Tempus celebrates 10 years of luxury, discover the innovative brands sharing our milestone birthday
56
80 Brick by brick Black Brick founder Camilla Dell share her top tips for buying property in Prime Central London
96
36 Disruption by design Art by Diana Tupilus
The LUXELIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gifts
11 2 41
D’Otto Launched exclusively for Selfridges, brand new fragrance collection D’Otto (left) is pairing art and scent to create emotional new experiences through perfume. Inspired by abstract art from Pollock to Kandinsky, the collection features five fragrances from different olfactive families and starts from £245. The complex, gender neutral scents are blended by Italian perfumer Paolo Terenzi, using natural, raw materials for a scent-sational fragrance.
selfridges.com Argent Timeless Travel Accessories Specialist automotive brand Argent Timeless has launched a new range of travel-inspired apparel and luggage, packed with the same quality and style as the brand’s restoration skills. The collection includes handmade Italian luggage, driving gloves (right), sunglasses, watches, and British leather goods, all ready to wear in a range of styles and colours to suit any classic or contemporary car fanatic. Start your engines in style. » argenttimeless.com
This immersive limited edition (right) combines Krug’s Grande Cuvée 170ème Édition with a pair exclusive, noise-cancelling Devialet Gemini earbuds and a thermal case, designed to offer a luxurious musical experience wherever you care to create it. Belgian musician and 3D music pioneer Ozark Henry has created a “soundsorial” audio piece to enhance your tasting experience, enveloping you in the history and story of the special edition, and the skill of cellar master Julie Cavill.
Piaget Polo Date & Polo Skeleton Celebrate the colour of the summer with Swiss watch brand Piaget’s two new Polo green models – the Piaget Polo Date and Piaget Polo Skeleton. An integral hue for the maison’s men’s and women’s collections, the green dial and bridges of the two watches brings a fresh and bright look to this classic house style. The Polo Date is available in rose gold with green dial and alligator strap, while the Skeleton (left) comes in steel with interchangeable bracelet and alligator strap. Friends will be green with envy. piaget.com
3
Krug Grande Cuvée 170ème x Devialet Limited Edition
Enough to make your senses fizz… clos19.com
johnstonsofelgin.com
12 5 6 7
Johnstons of Elgin x Sabina Savage Inspired by The Great Exhibition of 1851, Johnstons of Elgin has launched a new rage of scarves design by talented designer Sabina Savage. The Great Exhibition Scarf (right) features hand-drawn tapestry designs that include London landmarks such as The Crystal Palace, Big Ben and the Thames to mark the brand’s 225th anniversary, as well as nods to its Scottish heritage via the River Lossie and native flora and fauna like the thistle. A beautiful piece of history.
Ettore’s Espresso Bar London’s most exclusive coffee spot, Ettore’s Espresso Bar launched this summer in HR Owen Bugatti. The luxury car dealership is normally by invitation-only but has opened its doors on Bruton Square to the public for the first time. Named for founder Ettore Bugatti, the espresso bar serves up Italian coffee staples as well as the £50 Ettore Shot – served in a Bugatti carbon fibre cup. The lounge is furnished with chairs fashioned as Bugatti seats, giving ideal view of the marque’s latest range of hyper sports cars.
hrowen.life Reuge x MB&F MusicMachine 1 Reloaded 10 years since its first launch, horological machine company MB&F have updated their musical collaboration with Swiss masters Reuge. The updated, aerodynamic design features dual propellers and twin silver cylinders mounted on sleek landing gear, with each cylinder playing three tunes, personally selected by founder Maximilian Büsser. The left cylinder plays the Star Wars theme, ‘Imperial March’ from The Empire Strikes Back, and the theme from Star Trek. The right cylinder plays Pink Floyd’s ‘Another Brick in the Wall’, Deep Purple’s ‘Smoke on the Water’, and John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’. A mechanical – and musical – masterpiece. mbandf.com
The Hennessy Dame Jeanne x Nelly Saunier
LG Signature Washer Dryer
While home appliances are often more of a necessity than a luxury, the LG Signature range is determined to change that with its ultra-premium goods. The new Washer Dryer (right) features innovations like the drum’s Centum System, which removes shaking and noise, a mini wash feature that allows two loads at a time, and AI DD technology that weighs each load and fabric to intelligently care for clothing. Not only that, but the Washer Dryer is controllable via mobile app and has an auto dosing system to optimise detergent and softener. High-tech home living at its best. lg.com
Caravaggio: Rebel & Rome
The Dorchester Collection has launched the latest in its series of private walking trails, designed to lead guests in the footsteps of the world’s most legendary artists. Following the success of Paris walking trails Picasso’s Montmartre and Monet’s Revolutionary Brushstrokes, Rome’s Hotel Eden will shed light on the scandal and success of the Eternal City’s most enduring artist – Caravaggio. dorchestercollection.com
13 1089
The most luxurious Hennessy creation to date, this unique Dame Jeanne crafted by French plumassière Nelly Saunier, combines superb rare blended cognac with magnificent art (left). Limited to just 10 filled decanters and available at Harrods’ Hennessy Boutique for £600,000, the design draws on Saunier’s passion for nature and birds, featuring gilded gold cock feathers and more. Inside, the cognac blended by master blender Renaud Fillioux De Gironde was matured in oak barrels and features notes of spicebread, panettone and marmalade. Santé! hennessy.com
Written in the Stars As the James Webb Space Telescope releases the most in-depth and dramatic images of our universe yet, we celebrate a truly epic moment in scientific theatre Words: Gabriel Power
IN SEARCH OF THE COSMOS
The JWST is now the largest telescope in space and is effectively a replacement for the legendary Hubble Space Telescope, which has been bringing us glimpses of deep space since theBut1990s.the JWST’s capabilities are far beyond Hubble’s. For a start, its unparalleled infrared resolution allows it to see considerably further into the cosmic scaffold than even the deepest Hubble images. What’s more, Hubble’s famed Ultra-Deep Field image took months to capture (between 2003 and 2004). Webb’s First Deep Field took just 12 hours. And the results are breathtaking. From margin to margin, it is the most intensely bright and detailed rendering of the universe that humans have ever seen, overloaded with information. Galaxies and nebulas that could swallow our Solar System quadrillions of times over are almost lost in the mess of light; data tells us that what we are looking at is a vast expanse of nothing, punctuated almost unfathomably infrequently by objects that eroded into the ether billions of years ago. But here they sit shoulder to shoulder as if close neighbours, cuddled close to each other in the coldest, darkest arena imaginable. The Deep Field was soon followed by photos of nebulas and star groups that simply added to the incomprehensibility of what Nasa has achieved with the JWST. Swirling masses, some opaque, some translucent, replete with whisps and textured layers one might find in a Renaissance painting. They are warm, serene and beguiling, despite the fact that, deep down, we know that we are looking at images of cosmic forces and processes that can warp spacetime and rip black holes apart, and that capture a span of space and time that defies explanation. It may be a cliche to express awe at the scale and majesty of the universe, but the fruits of JWST’s labour will no doubt be a seminal moment for a new generation of budding astronomers. In a world where vanity projects and – scientifically dubious – terraforming missions to Mars dominate the field of space exploration, it was going to take an old master to set the record straight – and Nasa has stepped up to the plate in a manner that has exceeded all expectations.
S cientific breakthroughs aren’t supposed to happen like this. So often the result of a chance laboratory finding or buried as a footnote in an impossibly niche doctoral thesis, events that shape our understanding of our world — and the universe in which it resides — are so often burdened by the weight of the complex scientific method that led to their discovery that their eventual reporting in mainstream news can seem like something of a dampBut,squib.with the James Webb Space Telescope (JWST), and the photos it released in July, Nasa has orchestrated one of the great pieces of scientific theatre. These images are the longawaited showpiece of the most advanced space telescope ever constructed, borne of decades of work by some of the brightest minds in aeronautical engineering. With the release was on the horizon, the US space agency teased the watching world into a state of frenzy, ratcheting up the media tension as we awaited the file transfer that would change everything. It was a daring manoeuvre, shrouding a project that Nasa was effectively staking its reputation on in a veneer of pop Indeed,science.by the time the photos came through, the words “James Webb Telescope” were as ubiquitous among the patrons of your local tearoom as they were on the news tickers of Times Square. US President Joe Biden was even called upon by Nasa to be the official publisher of the first photo. With that photo, it became clear that Nasa had known they were sitting on something deeply special – on one of those exceptionally rare, once-in-a-generation scientific findings that would ignite the imaginations of not just aeronautical engineers or astronomy enthusiasts, but of everyone who laid eyes on theseRemarkably,images. the first image to be published, dubbed Webb’s First Deep Field, was a simple operational image – meaning its purpose was essentially to test the imaging capabilities of the probe, which has been in orbit around the Sun since December 2021. Rather than being focused on one particular celestial body or nebula, as the images that would follow, it was instead a photo taken through the gaps in the SMACS 0723 galaxy cluster, where gravitational lensing of light allowed for an ultra-wide field of view at the distant galaxies behind it. The image is chaotic, noisy and unfocused. But its beauty is undeniable, with or without the eradefining scientific context behind it.
nasa.gov
A new era: The James Webb Telescope (below) captures new images of the Carina Nebula (previous)and Stephan’s Quintet (opposite). Credit: NASA, ESA, CSA, STScI
16
18
Released in cinemas in July, Explorer sets about doing just that, pulling together an extraordinary amount of archive footage to tell the story of Ranulph’s endless drive to complete his expeditions. But the film is also a love story, and a moving tribute to the adventurer’s late wife and explorer, Ginny. “It’s definitely been the case that you’re not going to move forward without the advice of the dear lady who is behind you,” Ranulph says of the women in his life – referring both to Ginny, who died in 2004, as well as Louise, his wife of 17 years, and their 16-year-old daughter Elizabeth. »
S ir Ranulph Fiennes is an enigmatic presence. Like still water, he is calm and practical, imbued with an unflappable pragmatism that inspires and surprises when you hear of his remarkable feats. Yet, dive deeper, and the explorer – who prefers to be known simply as Ran – is full of good humour and passion for all he does. Once you consider the great man’s history it’s clear that this mix is the key to his success. And it’s an impressive resume to say the least: eight years service in the British Army; the first person to navigate the world from North to South Pole by surface; the first to cross Antarctica on foot; as well as reaching the summit of Mount Everest at the age of 65. But between these accomplishments were false starts and failed expeditions, pitching and planning expeditions, and a few disasters – including, in 2000, an encounter with frostbite so severe that Sir Ranulph, impatient with the pain, amputated his own three necrotic fingertips off with an electric fretsaw. Now 78, Sir Ranulph has invited filmmaker Matthew Dyas unmitigated access to his archives, friends, and innermost thoughts to create a documentary that delves inside the mind of the world’s greatest explorer. “He’s not quite the person you think he is, which is always going to be compelling,” says director Matthew. “He’s an extraordinary character. There’s contradiction between the man on the posters – the lone explorer standing in the snow – and this guy who’s always hustling, working to make ends meet. The starting point for me was to pick away at that and find out what’s behind it.”
Enigmatic adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes offers a glimpse into his inner world in his intimate new documentary film, Explorer
LIFE
A ADVENTUREOF
Interview: Michelle Johnson
Sir Ranulph met his first wife Virginia ‘Ginny’ Pepper at the age of 12, when she was nine. Childhood confidants-turned-sweethearts, the pair married in 1970. An accomplished explorer in her own right, Ginny organised the first ascent of the Nile by hovercraft in 1968, as well as four exhibitions to find the lost city of Ubar in Dhofar with her husband, before devising the plan that would become the Transglobe Expedition. So vital was Ginny’s work that she became the first woman to be awarded the Polar Medal and to join the Antarctica Club. After she died of cancer in 2004, a 2,500m high summit in Antarctica – Mount Fiennes – was named in herButhonour.itisn’t just the remarkable feats of their adventurous partnership that viewers see played back in the film; we also see Sir Ranulph discover old family footage. He says his biggest surprise of the filmaking process was: “seeing footage from when I arrived in England from South Africa and met Ginny, moving over the years into marriage at age 24, and through the years of working together”. “We were rather like two caged animals becoming closer and closer,” he recalls. “She worked very hard [for us] to make a profession from doing expeditions anywhere in the world, whether hot deserts or polar areas.”
VITAL IMPACT Today, Sir Ranulph is also famed for his charity work, and says his aim is to raise £20m for charity; though the explorer and author – who has so far raised more than £14m for charities including MS Society, Breakthrough Breast Cancer and the British Heart Foundation – says the link between his expeditions and fundraising was actually inspired by a meeting with his patron of 48 years, the Prince of Wales. “We didn’t have any charity partnerships to begin with, until one day [oceanographer] Anton Bowring, Ginny and I had to brief Prince Charles on the next expedition, and he asked, ‘Who are we raising money for?’”
Dyas, director Behind the legend: Sir Ranulph in his school days (left), with his first wife Ginny (above), and on a polar expedition (right)
PARTNERS IN ADVENTURE “There is no way that we could have done the expeditions – particularly the Transglobe Expedition – without Ginny in the key planning position,” Sir Ranulph says of his most momentous expedition, which took 10 years to complete. “The conception was hers. It took seven years of planning, working in pubs to make a living, and then three years of travel.”
Two months later, Prince Charles proposed the MS Society. Since that time fundraising has become a core part of the explorer’s process.
Explorer not only traces Sir Ranulph’s past and present, but also looks to his future: his pride in his daughter Elizabeth’s conservation work and his typically pragmatic thoughts about his own legacy provide moving moments. Explorer is a love story,” says Matthew. “It’s a story about getting older and about friendship, as well as the romance and history of exploring itself.”
Explorer is available on Digital, Blu-ray and DVD from 29th August
20
If his persistence and determination to see a challenge through are at all surprising, Matthew says one only has to look to footage of Sir Ranulph as a young man – from school to his eight-year military service – to see the makings of his character. Sir Ranulph served in the Royal Scots Greys, and was seconded to the Special Air Service as a demolition expert, before spending his last two years attached to the army of the Sultan of Oman. “I think there were plenty of surprises with the authenticity of the experience that you get from the archive footage, but particularly the [footage] in Oman, which Ran actually filmed himself,” says Matthew. “There are soldiers walking across the sand dunes, at sunset, and one looks like he’s being mean, and then he cracks up and speaks to Ran, who’s operating the camera. When you break it down, you realise Ran was capturing something very rare for this generation; this intimate stuff with soldiers from a completely different culture. It was really beautiful.”
Finally, in 1982, during the expedition, the party was informed they had to abort the mission for safety reasons: it was Ginny, as base leader, who made the decision to continue. “At the very last moment of the North Pole trek, on the last floating ice flowing down above Siberia, we were told that we had to abort the expedition. But when the message came through from London, Ginny – who for four years had never missed the correct Morse code orders from London – somehow failed to get that particular account,” he say. “That would have been failure without her.”
EXPLORER IS A LOVE STORY. IT’S ABOUT GETTING OLDER, ABOUT FRIENDSHIP, AND THE ROMANCE OF EXPLORING–Matthew
In 2003, despite suffering a heart attack and double bypass surgery just four months earlier, Sir Ranulph raised £70,000 for the British Heart Foundation through his 7x7x7 challenge: seven marathons in seven days on seven continents.
DEFINING Peter Malmstrom
LUXURY We join Rolls-Royce at the picturesque Domaine de Primard to rendezvous with the brand’s iconic new Phantom Words:
22
R olls-Royce has, since the days of its founders, Charles Rolls and Henry Royce, produced vehicles that most would categorise as the very best in vehicular aluxury –a tradition the company cherishes and upholds as much today as when it was founded in 1904.
The new generation of Rolls-Royce seeks to be more inclusive and diverse, reflecting a wider brand appeal to a new generation of buyers, who value the meticulous care and attention that goes into every model that sits behind the legendary Pantheon grill and Spirit of Ecstasy. In recent years, I have been fortunate enough to review stunning examples of this new generation of motorcars, with the Cullinan, Dawn and exceptional Ghost all impressing with their individuality and unique personalities. However, throughout the British marque’s long history and total commitment to perfection, there has been one name that has defined luxury – Phantom. The Phantom has been the flagship of the Rolls-Royce range since it was reintroduced in its current form some 20 years ago, and the latest iteration is a powerful continuation of the model’s excellence in defined luxury motoring. Its presence on the road is undeniable; its sheer size is designed to optimise cabin space and dominate the road. At nearly 6m long, and noticeably taller
23
and wider than other vehicles around it, these are not features synonymous with driving agility. For this reason, most would associate a car of this size and value to be exclusively chauffeur-driven and, indeed, 98% of the long wheelbase variants are. But, surprisingly, 78% of the standard wheelbase cars are driven by their owners. This interesting fact focused our attention on driving Phantom, rather than simply being driven in one at an exclusive event at Domaine de Primard – a stunning, picturesque French chateau that was formally the country home of French actress Catherine Deneuve – as the backdrop to a series of test drives on its latest range. »
THE PHANTOM’S MENACE Approaching the car, the lines are a statement of purpose, but the sheer size is intimidating. From the moment I open the door I am immediately struck by the build quality in the weight and finish of the doors. Power assisted opening and closing significantly increase the luxury experience –and saves the need for owners to develop biceps like Popeye, as was the case with the earlier generations of cars, such as the Shadow and Cornice. Once inside, the first thing that greets me is the revolutionary approach to preventing any possible squeak or rattle with the development of a single piece glass dashboard. This piece of bespoke artwork can be customised and coloured to almost infinite and unique variations framing the now familiar Rolls-Royce instrument clusters, reassuringly minimalist in output to show only what you really need to know. Looking across the car, the width of the seats and distance between the two interior door trims are noticeably bigger than in normal luxury cars. Looking up over the dash, I am hit by the massive bonnet proportions, sightly curved resembling the sea at night in the Maldives, with the curvature of the earth falling away until interrupted by the top of the wings resembling the pillars of Hercules to its left and right extremes and emphasising the width of this beast. Way out in front, as if on the distant horizon, is the familiar Spirit of Ecstasy. This is a big car and feels substantial in every respect, while the touch and feel at each contact point conveys quality of finish and practicality of purpose. With this awareness, extra attention is required while navigating the Phantom through the small courtyards of the chateau, originally built for a horse and cart – not such an automotive behemoth. However, the steering is beautifully light and the car surprisingly easy to manoeuver, thanks to its sophisticated four-wheel steering geometry designed both to assist low-speed turning and highspeed directional change. The ‘Pillars of Hercules’ protruding from the corners of the bonnet, and the reassuring Spirit of Ecstasy up front were perfect reference points to assist in guiding the Phantom effortlessly through the courtyard. At this point, as if to further complicate the dynamic, the heavens open; my jaunt through the French countryside is going to be interesting. As I pull silently out of the gates, the acceleration of the V12 6.75ltr twin turbo charged engine is phenomenal, despite the Phantom being rear wheel drive. Its power output is described by Rolls-Royce as “adequate” –which feels somewhat of an understatement given that this 2.6 tonne beast can accelerate from 0 to 60mph in 5.1 seconds. Impressively, this acceleration is achieved in almost perfect silence. Despite the wet conditions, the sheer weight of the car gives exceptional traction and a feeling of confidence on the wet road. The highly-tuned suspension and GPS-controlled gearbox prepares the car for each turn is augmented by the Flagbearer system, which reads the road ahead through sensors in the headlining and adjusts the ride for optimal comfort and handling. These features come together to deliver a feeling of comfort and safety rarely experienced in such torrential conditions. Anticipated aquaplaning on standing water is nonexistent and, when I stand heavily on the brakes to take the car beyond reasonable stopping parameters, Phantom stands on its nose with just a hint of the rear trying to come around on me before the electronics make a micro-adjustment, and the Phantom pulls up straight and true without a whisper in silent contempt for my leaden footed challenge. Pushing the car in the rain, I expect to feel the presence of lateral drift and understeer going into the bends, with hints of oversteer coming out of them under power, given the huge front-mounted engine and immense power being delivered to the rear wheels. In fact, the balance of the car is exceptional and, even with the cars overall weight and wheelbase suggesting this should be a lumbering beast and a handful to drive at pace, but with the intelligent four-wheel steering system, wonderfully tuned traction control system, ABS and army of electronics all working in unison in the background, this massive car feels agile and effortless to control, regardless of the weather. All of this engineering excellence gives the impression that, as you drive it, the Phantom literally shrinks around you, transforming from the behemoth of that first impression to an agile, massively capable saloon with all the refinement that Rolls-Royce’s years of experience in engineering can deliver. This is why owners chose to drive themselves, and why my own perception of Phantom has been changed forever, from the allure of wanting to be driven in this motoring legend, to wanting to drive it myself. Then again, there is something to be said for being driven home in the back of one of the marque’s fleet of chauffeur-driven Phantoms upon my return to the UK – and to fully understand why this car has become the standard of luxury against which all others are measured. As I doze under the shooting star headliner, in acres of leather and veneered opulence, I reflect on how this entire experience has changed my perception and understanding of what could, quite possibly, be one of the best all round luxury cars in existence today. rolls-roycemotorcars.com
25
L uxury rail travel is enjoying a renaissance. As we emerge from the shadows of the pandemic, trends suggest high-networth individuals are seeking once-in-a-lifetime experiences that are more exceptional, personal and immersive than ever before. Even before Covid-19, luxury train travel had been gathering momentum. Glimpsing the world’s landmarks by rail is the ultimate romantic experience, and offers the new breed of environmentally-conscious traveller a comfortable alternative to flying. But before we consider the present, let’s take a look at the future – and the beauty of the G Train, the private train that could revolutionise luxury train travel. The G Train is a $350m (£290m) palace on wheels. It is a project led by the worldrenowned French designer, Thierry Gaugain, famed for designing luxury yachts and planes. “The G Train… will be the wedding of luxury and technology,” he told press last year. “It’s not a train of the past – it will be designed for the future and technologically advanced.”
»
The sleek, stylish G Train is unlike anything rail travel has seen before. Windows will be sheathed in smartglass that can switch from opaque to transparent, offering changing panoramic views. The train will have four locomotives adapted to railways across Europe and the Americas. Gaugain’s proposed layout splits the train into two sections: the front half will be the owner’s private accommodation and entertainment carriage, while the back half contains guest suites, guest salon and crew accommodation. The G Train will be an exclusive prize for one owner, Gaugain revealed. “It will be made to measure to match the expectation and desire of the owner, the same way megayachts are designed today,” he said. “Once we have an owner, who I expect will be conscious of the uniqueness of the train and who is ready to reinvent their life, construction would take roughly two years.”
Step aboard the most luxurious trains in the world to discover why railway travel is first class Words: George Cooper BACK ON TRACK
28
GLIMPSING THE WORLD’S LANDMARKS BY RAIL IS THE ULTIMATE ROMANTIC EXPERIENCE, OFFERING ENVIRONMENTALLY-CONSCIOUS TRAVELLERS A COMFORTABLE ALTERNATIVE TO FLYING
SEE THE WORLD Further afield, Rovos Rail in South Africa markets itself as the most luxurious train in the world, carrying passengers through breathtaking scenery, including savanna, game reserves and coastline to destinations including Cape Town, Victoria Falls and Durban. Also known as The Pride of Africa, Rovos Rail recaptures the charm and ambiance of a bygone era, lavishing guests in comfort, luxury and personalised service on vintageGuestscoaches.onRovos Rail can relax amid five-star service, facilities and fine dining. Each train accommodates a maximum of 72 passengers. Heading further east, the discerning traveller can step aboard Japan’s Train Suite Shiki-Shima – the ultra-luxe sleeper that is one of the world’s most exclusive and expensive trains. The futuristic train has a capacity of just 34 passengers. The interiors of the 10 carriages exemplify traditional Japanese craftsmanship, with five sleeping cars, two observation cars, a lounge car and a dining car. The sightseeing train departs from Ueno Station in Tokyo and takes guests on multi-day journeys through some of Japan’s most scenic spots, including the wineries of Yamanashi or the sights of Hokkaido.
CONTINENTAL STYLE
For those who – for now – can only dream of owning their own private train, Europe, and the world, beckons through some memorable luxury rail journeys. In 2023, the Orient Express will open its new route – La Dolce Vita – taking guests in unparalleled luxury from northern to southern Italy and then to Paris, France, Istanbul, Turkey and Split, Croatia. The concept pays tribute to the historical period of glamour and artistic fervour in Italy during the 1960s. Guests will be catered for in 12 deluxe cabins and 19 suites, and served Italian haute cuisine and award-winning wines. Meanwhile, Belmond’s Venice SimplonOrient Express sleeper train is the epitome of contemporary luxury train travel, gliding nonstop between London, Paris, Berlin, Venice and Verona. Guests are catered for in private quarters, from single cabins to grand suites that are more than a match for the continent’s finest hotels. The express is a step back to the 1920s, with expertly restored Art Deco carriages complete with antique fixtures, polished woods and sumptuous upholstery. And it’s not Belmond’s only luxurious railway journey. Closer to home, is there a more majestic, evocative and patriotic sight than a steam train thundering its way through the idyllic English countryside? The British Pullman is a sibling of the Venice Simplon-Orient Express and offers opulent travel through day and evening journeys between London and Folkestone, during which guests are served multiple courses of British cuisine. The train has 11 passenger carriages, each featuring a vintage dining salon of either Art Deco or Nouveau design, and seating between 20 and 26 people. Calling at historic towns including York, Bath and Canterbury, the Pullman is a step back in time to the golden age of British steam train travel.
29
All aboard: Rovos Rail in Montagu, South Africa (previous); Dining aboard the Belmond Royal Scotsman through the Highlands (left and centre); Art Deco details on the Venice SimplonOrient-Express, A Belmond Train
The road successto
Women entrepreneurs who have successfully grown their business have, unfortunately, had to overcome more struggles than their male counterparts. The playing field is certainly not even, but the landscape has begun to improve in recent years, as our research has shown. However, there is still room for improvement and, in order to pave the way for more womenpowered companies to emerge and thrive, we must work together to address the structural barriers to economic opportunity for women in business. jpmorgan.com
Charlotte Bobroff, senior advisor to women entrepreneurs across the UK at JP Morgan Private Bank, on the achievements to be celebrated – and barriers still to be broken – for women-powered businesses O ver the years, women entrepreneurs have brought numerous innovative, industry leading and game changing products and services to the market – whether we’re looking at the beauty industry and Trinny London, the femtech industry and Elvie, or financial services and Starling Bank – their impact is something to be celebrated. However, the road to success isn’t easy, a fact which rings especially true for women entrepreneurs who face more barriers than their male counterparts. In its second year, JP Morgan Private Bank’s Female Powered Businesses Report, produced using Beauhurst data, has sought to measure the impact these businesses have on the economy and understand the common barriers to growth and ways in which we can better support women entrepreneurs in the UK. Women-powered businesses contribute significantly to the UK’s economy – reporting combined sales of £84.7bn – employ a sizeable share of the workforce with a total headcount of almost 700,000 and, as such, will be critical to the UK’s recovery from the pandemic. Positively, the proportion of investments made into women-powered businesses has grown over the last decade from 6.01% to a record 19.1% in 2021, with a total of £5.05bn in equity investment. We also found that these businesses are making their mark particularly within the clothing, healthcare, educational and nursing sectors, which we found has the highest proportion of women-powered companies compared to the general highgrowth population, having between 37-46% share of the market. However, while women-powered businesses have made large gains in recent years and are important drivers of growth and employment, they still face systemic challenges with equity dilution. When we discuss the diversity of the business population, taking a look at the composition of a business and whether it’s owned by a minority is an important concept to Duringconsider.the process of receiving funding, the volume of shares by founders naturally declines, however women founders typically give up twice as much equity than male founders (25% reduction compared to 13%). One factor at play, here, is the reality that women founders face a more challenging fundraising landscape. If we take a look at the Venture Capital funding landscape we can see how little womenled businesses are considered; according to the report Venturing into Diversity & Inclusion (2019), for every £1 of venture capital investment, less than 1p goes to all women-led teams. Over two thirds (65%) of funds in London have decisionmaking teams that are all-male, however. When we sat down with a number of our Top 200 female founders to discuss their journey to growth, it’s clear that it is also important to consider who the decision makers are; whether they can see their potential and appreciate what their brand is all about – especially if that brand is geared towards women.
30
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni on his plans to redefine luxury Words: Michelle Johnson
32
The Milanese businessman’s next step was to launch a new flagship collection of six highly technical but elegantly understated watches as a benchmark for Parmigiani style going forward. This was soon followed by 2022’s novelties – »
F ounded by renowned master restorer Michel Parmigiani 25 years ago, those not in the know would be forgiven for thinking watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier was dependant upon its remarkable heritage to impress. In fact, under the leadership of CEO Guido Terreni, Parmigiani has proven itself one of the industry’s most forward-facing horology brands. Guido, who formerly headed Bulgari’s watch division, joined the independent Swiss watchmaker in January 2021. He immediately set about refining the look and feel of the company to better represent its values of understatement, refinement, and craftsmanship – values, he says, that are embodied by Michel himself. “To me, having our founder still with us as a source of knowledge, understanding and values is very special: it’s unprecedented, really,” he tells us, adding that Guido himself brings balance to the equation. “I bring a market sensitivity, as well as a personal understanding of what a watch should be today – and what high refinement looks like to clients in their 30s-40s.”
A LEGEND RESTORED
Tell us about your newest launches? We arrived in Geneva for Watches & Wonders with real momentum after the launch of the PF Collection last year. It was incredible because it basically reactivated the brand. The first thing I wanted to do was show a world premiere – which was the GMT Rattrapante, a new interpretation of the GMT option – as well as the Skeleton. The idea is to always have these values of discretion and refinement in what we create, so the design is not in-your-face but full of technical innovation. With the Rattrapante GMT, we put ourselves in the shoes of a client who travels a lot. It’s simple and intuitive to use, with a push button at eight o’clock to split the two hour hands – one for the traveller and one for home. The Rattrapante action means that the two hands reunite in the blink of an eye. It’s really about the purity of the experience, and it really was the star of the fair. The Skeleton is another expression of purity, but this time relating to an open work movement. It houses very subtle, extremely refined aesthetic details, but it was also important to emphasise the readability of the dial. Too often with such movements, they are interesting from a mechanical point of view but it’s impossible to see the hands. We came at this by ensuring the visible movements are all in tones of grey – even the rubies are black –so that the golden hands are instantly readable. It’s truly a pleasure to look at.
How did your 25th anniversary novelty, La Rose Carrée, come about? I joined as we were celebrating the 25th anniversary of the company. I said to Michel, “I want something that celebrates your legacy, your life and your brand”. He took me into the archives and showed me a movement made by Louis-Elisée Piguet between 1898 and 1904. We started thinking about how to build a unique piece around it; using an ancient heart to make a contemporary object. La Rose Carrée was unveiled on Michel’s birthday [2 December] last year, and it is an astonishing piece. Seeing him work with artisans at the top of their craft, like engraver Eddy Jaquet or enameller Vanessa Lecci, made me really understand what restoration is about – it is an artistic endeavour. How do these values shape your vision for the future of Parmigiani Fleurier? Our brand is noble in the soul. People who wear Parmigiani know what refinement is about; not as a show of wealth but evolving excellence. Luxury should be about something projected to the future, where the past provides the ingredients that you put into your craft to do something new and inspiring. It is not ostentatious but works behind the scenes. The new collection, especially the Tonda PF, reflects these values. The style is very minimal, pure and essential, but rich in its refinement and craftsmanship. This is the essence of what we do, of what we want to convey in this competitive world of watchmaking.
What are your priorities for the next year?
How does your experience influence your take on women’s watches? Coming from Bulgari, I see how differently women’s watches can be interpreted. I launched the Bulgari Serpenti in 2010, which was an interpretation of a watch as a piece of jewellery. Parmigiani has a very different style, but still has to address the same challenges: what does a watch mean to its wearer? The truth is that every woman’s style is different but, equally, you can’t generalise between men’s and women’s watches as you did years ago. Style has become much more fluid. You see women wearing men’s watches as a bold statement – a trend that has been going since the first Rolex was spotted on Italian ladies’ wrists 20 years ago.
Understated elegance: Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni (opposite) launched the Tonda PF Skeleton (previous) this year. Inset, the Tonda GT Chronograph
The acceleration of the brand this year has been beyond our wildest expectations – demand has been four and half times the previous year – so our priority is to produce these orders for our clients as it takes up to 12 months to make a Parmigiani watch. Looking further ahead, we will be focusing on future launches, but we will be making no concessions to the purity of the style – we’ll have fun with adding creativity to our functions and mechanical movements while respecting the brand identity that we have established with the Tonda PF. parmigiani.com
How does Michel’s skill in restoration impact the brand? Michel is a living legend in the world of restoration; he embodies the highest craft in the mechanical arts. He is a master in the history of watchmaking, not just the skills of today. It’s a cultural and technical knowledge, which is very important to me because it’s a founding pillar of Parmigiani Fleurier.
What might a woman’s collection look like from Parmigiani? I don’t have all the answers yet, but I was delighted with the reaction to the Parmigiami Micro-Rotor, which is a size 40mm dial, but very thin. The wearability is such that there are many women buying the Micro-Rotor and the Skeleton; this style can be masculine or feminine according to one’s taste. I believe that ladies are looking for a purity of design – and our collections have that in the refinement of the bracelet and case, brushed and polished dials and hands, the detail of the bezel.
launched at Watches & Wonders in April – the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Tonda PF Skeleton, Tonda PF Tourbillon Platinum and Tonda PF Micro-Rotor.Here,Guido tells us about the importance of Parmigiani’s heritage, his design inspirations, and hints at his plans to shake up the world of women’s watches. Guido, how do you define the Parmigiani Fleurier style? All the ingredients of our style can be found in our PF Collection. Our logo was originally a hallmark stamp, but Michel’s attention to detail and aesthetic sense shone through in its design, so we placed it at the centre of the dial, at 12 o’clock, to replace the full name of ‘Parmigiani Fleurier’ in favour of a more elegant and discreet sign. The PF Collection also has a more open dial, with markers reduced in size to create a fresh, modern finish accented by a restrained guilloché pattern on each dial. Our colours are inspired by the theories of Swiss architect Le Corbusier, whose 1931 book Salubra: claviers de couleur describes how colours can influence one’s environment. These are all subtle details that our clients can appreciate, without them being ostentatious. Tell us about your relationship with founder Michel Parmigiani? I first heard of Parmigiani in 2000, when I first joined the watch industry. I was already very impressed that the brand was so young but perceived in such a high and prestigious manner. I didn’t meet Michel in person until I joined the company last year, and it was a very emotional encounter because it was not planned. He lives next door [to the office] and we met one day in the corridor; he immediately began talking to me in Italian – his father is from Milan, as I am. We bonded very quickly, and his values of understatement and understanding of others were so natural: it was like talking to a grandfather.
37 ART As we debut an exclusive digital cover by artist Diana Tupilus, Tempus explores the trends that are disrupting the art industry for ever Art direction: Ross Forbes | Words: Judy Cogan & Michelle Johnson
New Faces
MY MIND IS DETAILS,BECAUSEWANDERINGALWAYSBUTWHENIPAINT,IWORKONSUCHSMALLIHAVETOBEVERYPRESENTANDFOCUSED
39
H er modern approach to centuriesold symbolism and acute social awareness gives London-based Romanian artist Diana Tupilus a razor-sharp edge. Here, the artist behind Tempus’ exclusive digital cover talks about wanting to stay niche, painting as a therapeutic tool and mixing the old and the new… Diana, tell us about designing this issue’s original cover work? It was an enjoyable process. I had the vision of how I wanted it to look right from the start: very striking and inspirational. My art has so much detail, so I was careful not to over complicate it, as well as researching timepieces and their movements to create a beautiful composition that conveyed motion and elegance. How did you get started as an artist? My art journey started in school. Romanian schools are very tough, so I found myself painting as a way to detach myself from how stressful school felt. I found doodling and patterns to be therapeutic. At the same time I discovered graphic design. It came naturally to me. When I decided to study art at university in London, that’s when other influences came in and I began to develop my style. How important is painting to your mental health, and do you still find it therapeutic? Yes. This is why I keep painting for myself when I need it. I find it brings me back to the present and makes me feel grounded. My mind is always wandering, but when I paint, because I work on such small details, I always have to be very present and focused. If I don’t paint for three months I can feel that something’s wrong. ART How do you approach your incredible abstract portraits? For me, it’s very important to create a story around the subject matter. When I start painting, I look at the subject and think, okay, what is their emotion? Where are they? What vibe and expressions do I want to add to this painting? So, they’re laughing or screaming, looking to the side and anything in between. So, your work begins with feelings first? In art school I did a lot of life drawing and learned the traditional way of painting. But I was very much in love with the more abstract figures. I started to take away elements from realistic portraits to get to the essence of the figure. I then embellish the picture with decorative elements and shapes, which help depict expression or a movement. I’m trying to simplify all the time. You celebrate a diverse variety of women and cultures in your work... Yes, I value this a lot. I came to the UK when I was 19 and was suddenly exposed to so much beauty from all around the world. I was amazed to see people from everywhere and I loved the diversity, which I did not have in Romania. I wanted to celebrate it in my art and continue to do so today. You also digitise your work. Can you tell us about this cross-platform artistry? I am also a graphic designer and that is a true passion of mine. I love design and use it as a way to expand self-expression and give a different dimension to my artwork. Until last year I worked in fashion, and I did photography as well. I’m very much interested in mixed media. I wanted to learn many skills: animation, graphics, Photoshop and digital art goes hand in hand with what I’m trying to do as an artist. What or who inspires you the most? I look at history a lot. Some of my main inspirations come from artists like Hans Holbein the Younger, Klimt, Picasso; artists who really broke boundaries and who went out of their comfort zone. I’m not on social media much, but I’m trying to keep up with what’s happening in the metaverse, with NFTs [Non-Fungible Tokens], and I find it very inspiring. What are your future goals? I’m still fairly young in the art world and I prefer to have a quite exclusive audience of people who really get my art, instead of being very popular on social media. I don’t condemn that, but it’s just the way I like to do things. I choose to treat each painting with care, to give it enough time and consideration and to stay true to my vision. I would love to continue to expand my knowledge of different cultures and their decorative motifs and symbolism. dianatupilus.art
40
25M42 Known as Luk or 25m42, this German artist is causing a stir in the art world due to his obsession with 3D. Exploring HoudiniFX and other render software 25m42 since 2017, he creates highlydetailed photorealistic images (like Dreamscape, above) using a detailed and unique oriented style. He says: “My creations appear in the flow. I never have a script or a concept. I try to let them happen as freely as possible.” kreation.io; Instagram: @25m42
TANYA SHULTZ Award-winning Australian artist Tanya Shultz (aka Pip & Pop) is exhibiting her eye-popping work at the Shirley Sherwood Gallery of Botanical Art, Kew Gardens. Inspired by mythologies and folklore, When Flowers Dream (photographed by Roger Wooldridge, above) is her debut London exhibition. Her immersive installations are made from materials such as sugar, modelling clay and sweets as well as souvenirs sourced on her travels all over the world. kew.org/kew-gardens; Instagram: @pipnpop RAINE STOREY Canadian artist Raine studied at Queen’s University of Canada before moving to England to follow in her grandfather Derek Woodhead’s artistic footsteps. Her work is elaborate and emotionally deep with clever composition. She also uses humour in her art (as in Catch, above). Don’t miss Storey’s solo exhibition Exquisite Corpse at The Arx in October, following a twomonth residency in the gallery’s London studio. thearx.com
ANIMATTIC Matty Thurston is non-binary artist from the UK who creates abstract and conceptual 3D digital art (such as False Thought of Memory, left) under the online persona Animatttic. Each piece is a mystical colour-burst designed to evoke unique thought processes and is influenced by architecture and the unconscious mind. kreation.io
JAN KALÁB He became a prominent figure on the urban art scene in the 1990s when he founded the DSK crew, which proved instrumental in introducing graffiti to the Czech Republic. He is known as “Cakes” in Europe and painted entire cars in New York in 2000. He later moved on to 3D-Graffiti art under the name Point. He works with sculpture and painting (no spray cans) and has enjoyed several solo shows including Awakening at HOFA, London. thehouseoffineart.com; Instagram: @jankalab
SYMBLE A self-taught British artist known for his striking style of Pop-Art and street art (Health is Wealth, below). Born in South London, Symble’s work was exhibited at Art Basel Miami Beach in 2019. He borrows motifs from Jean-Michele Basquiat and Keith Haring, among others – and has even caught the eye of legendary artist Damien Hirst, who has bought several of the Symble’s works to add to his personal collection. pictorum-capitis.co.uk; Instagram: @officialsymble
41
Artists to watch
A new vision
43
Mega galleries are not designed to work for the many, and thus only a fraction of artists are truly represented. Fortunately, we are in a position where we can make meaningful change. Why are you so focused on new and emerging artists? It is hard to ignore the absence of good quality representation in the marketplace, especially for artists in the emerging phase of their careers. What they lack right now is visibility, funding and knowledge. If we can be their eyes and ears in the right places, support them financially and really commit to establishing them, it will create a more ethical environment and a more inclusive environment for the future. The failings most galleries have, in my opinion, is that they tend to look after the collectors’ needs before those of the artists, which is in fact contrary to their contractual obligations. By engaging directly with the emerging marketplace, we aim to mutually tackle under-representation whilst selfishly being able to be involved in the most exciting part of an artist’s career. How is the art world changing – and how are you responding to this change? The evolution of the [art world] isn’t simply just down to digitalisation. We have money being earned at a much younger age and these people are not being looked at seriously as new potential collectors by most of the big galleries. I want to create a more inclusive environment and remove barriers of entry for everyone from first time collectors to investors and artists. Our aim is to build trust and transparency with the audiences that are being overlooked and encourage their evolution. Do you think there’s a need for galleries to reach out to younger audiences? Yes. There’s a complete disparity between the two. We’re a much faster-paced generation that learn and adapt quickly. Change can be scary, and larger galleries tend to stick with what they know. But they need fresh people with modern perspectives to survive long term. What are the main trends investors are looking for right now? Art, and what people collect and invest in, is massively subjective. Major trends at the moment include a greater focus on female artists, who are being empowered and producing amazing work, and many African artists are also soaring in value. In terms of artistic genre, figurative art is garnering increasing amounts of attention in all areas of the marketplace. For us, it’s less about identifying trends and more about selecting artists we’re really passionate about and committed to developing their future practice. Can you tell us about the mentorship programmes you run for artists? We are rolling out a mentorship and education programme specifically for artists, to allow them not just to engage in their artistic practice, but to provide them with necessary skills not just to survive as living artists, but to flourish. That’s the information that they lack. Our mentorship programme is about developing and nurturing them to provide opportunities that some people wouldn’t have. Are there any artists in your portfolio who you particularly excited about? I think to select one would be incredibly difficult. We have many artists who have not come from an academic background, and I love their work partially because I have seen their stylistic development over the past few years. To name a few, SYMBLE, Boogie Moli and Célia Agloboto are all entering very exciting phases in their careers. There are also a number of artists who captured our attention at this year’s graduate shows, and who we are eager to enter discussions with in line with our flagship gallery launching later this year.
First and foremost, the art market is a very ageist, elitist and traditional marketplace, so anything new is disruptive. For us, it’s really about trying to keep all the best traditional parts while reshaping aspects of the art world that really need improving.
I WANT TO CREATE A MORE INCLUSIVE ENVIRONMENT AND REMOVE BARRIERS OF ENTRY FOR EVERYONE FROM BUYERS AND INVESTORS TO COLLECTORS AND ARTISTS
pictorum-capitis.co.uk
P ictorum Capitis founder Matthew Navin (left), supported by his brother Jackson, is disrupting the traditions of the art world by supporting emerging talent and taking risks as an investment incubator and patron – all in order to back the big artists of the future. Now, with a new flagship gallery due to open in London’s Portman Square later this year, we find out more about his plans to shake up the system… Matt, please talk us through your vision of the art world?
Frida (top) and Fleur De Dance Red, by Boogie Moli
44
HOFA HOFA Gallery (House of Fine Art) specialises in contemporary art by a mix of established and emerging international artists – always rare talents with a multitude of artistic disciplines. thehouseoffineart.com
SAATCHI GALLERY
Originally drawing upon the personal collections of Charles Saatchi, Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery has been a champion of emerging artists since 1985, with exhibitions and collaborations year round. saatchigallery.com
KREATION Brought to us by HOFA, this specialised Web3 and NFT marketing agency and digital gallery is built on the Solana blockchain. In other words, its very hi-tech. They have launched disruptive artists including Leo Calliard, Animattic and 25m42. kreation.io PICTORUM GALLERY
The Mayfair-based art group thrives on investing in rare, emerging and often selftaught artists who may be overlooked by more traditional central London galleries. Pictorum’s new flagship gallery on Portman Square opens later this year. pictorum-capitis.co.uk
The Southbank Centre’s Hayward Gallery is housed in a monument to Brutalist architecture, and is known for its year-round programmes of adventurous, contemporary and off-the-wall exhibitions. southbankcentre.co.uk
45 London calling
The home of contemporary art, and sister gallery to the Tate Britain, this famous gallery holds the UK’s collection of modern art masterpieces from 1900 to the present day. tate.org.uk
Dominating Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery tells the story of European art one masterpiece at a time, including works by Jan van Eyck, Vincent Van Gogh and Hans Holbein. nationalgallery.org.uk
THE HAYWARD GALLERY
NATIONAL GALLERY
THE ARX Imagine a superior luxury gallery housing elements from the worlds of art, design, craftsmanship and cutting-edge tech within a 15,000sq ft space in London’s Knightsbridge. thearx.com TATE MODERN
F rom taking over Manhattan billboards to nurturing digital artists, Leo Crane (right) is a creative producer, artist, and educator with his finger on the pulse of where fine art meets digital technology. Working with Sotheby’s Institute of Art (below) to prepare promising artists for a changing artistic landscape, he shares some of the major trends that we can expect to impact art history, today.
Tell us more about your work with Sotheby’s Institute of Art? I was first approached by Sotheby’s Institute of Art in 2020 to run a Creative Leadership course. I worked for many years in museums, including seven years with the V&A, so I have an overview of how institutions run, the purpose of engaging people with collections, and understanding of what art can do in society in those big public spaces. »
History in the making
Leo, how would you describe your own artistic style? Everything I do is collaborative and interdisciplinary. I paint, draw and animate, and I love working with musicians, performers and storytellers - people who bring something fresh and exciting, or different to my experience - and then seeing how that comes together For example, I recently produced and animated the first ever live opera NFT, which was a really exciting project with Electrifying Opera, an opera company based in Israel. We used blockchain technology to create and capture a live performance.
You look at big events like NFT NYC, where there is a much higher visibility for previously underrepresented artists, particularly artists of colour, which is really important. sothebysinstitute.com; leocrane.co.uk
The LA County Museum of Art (LACMA) is one of the first major institutions to collect an NFT into their permanent collection, and the work they acquired – through a foundation set up by Paris Hilton, who’s a big NFT player focused on collecting women artists – was by British artist Shantell Martin. Martin is a female artist of colour, which I think is really important in the new frontiers of collecting.
Artisticspaces: SaveArtSpace x featuringFEWOCiOUSl'AmourRebelle(below)l’OiseauRebelle(Figuration/ElectrifyingOpera,right)
48
You’re currently running a vocational course: Art Business for Artists. Yes, it’s a five-session online course for artists who want to develop their business. It has pragmatic elements – such as sessions on copyright and IP, how to set up your business tax efficiently – but, at its core, it’s still asking the question: why are you an artist? What do you want your art to do in the world? From there, it’s about how you can structure your business to put your purpose front and centre. What are some of the changing trends you’re seeing right now? Digital technology has very clearly touched everyone’s lives, and this has accelerated through Covid-19. I’m particularly interested in the transformative power of web3, includeing blockchain technology and NFTs. Now that the crypto market has cooled off from its 2021 high, there is more space for longer term, philosophical conversations around how we can apply this technology, such as moving away from opaque, big tech power structures into community-driven enterprises. We are also starting to see blockchains develop solutions to the huge impact they have had on the environment. For example, I’m working with Helo, the fastest, most ecofriendly blockchain, which is already being adopted by innovative social impact projects, not to mention the arts, sport and education.. It's no longer about making overnight millionaires, but how web3 can shape a better world. Do you think digital communities are improving representation of artists? Yes, I think so. There are two sides to it: there’s the technology itself and then there’s the application of that technology. There will always be power structures; the challenge is to make sure those powers are more representative of the people they seek to engage. For example, when leading NFT marketplace SuperRare opened a physical gallery In New York, their inaugural exhibition was SuperTrans, curated by and featuring artists who are trans. At the same time, I was given a billboard on top of a building in Manhattan as part of an exhibition for Pride organised by SaveArtSpace. Our group of queer artists was selected by NFT superstar FEWOCiOUS, so I would never have had the opportunity if it wasn’t for NFTs. Even though it was an old-school billboard display, it all came through the communities that had been built up in web3 spaces online. Seeing this level of activism adopted at the heart of this new world is really encouraging. How do you think this will play out in traditional galleries? For a museum to acquire something into its permanent collection, it has to be a really considered thoughtful process, because that piece is going to help canonise future art history.
49
Once the most glamorous stretch of coastline in Europe, the Côte d’Azur – stretching from Saint-Tropez past Monaco – is reclaiming its reputation Words: Michelle Johnson
50 THE CONNECTIONFRENCH
51
B racketed by the verdant hills of Provence to one side, glittering azure sea on the other, and blue sky arching above, the coastal countryside of the Cote d’Azur has long been considered one of Europe’s most idyllic and glamorousStretchinglocations.fromthe Italian influences of the colourful commune of Menton and through the Principality of Monaco, where the legacy of Hollywood star-turned-princess Grace Kelly can still be felt, to cosmopolitan Nice and sunny SaintTropez, this sweep of Mediterranean coast has been a hub for the rich and stylish for decades. It’s unsurprising that the siren song of great weather, sandy beaches, fine dining and high fashion has seen the area become a tourist trap in the summer season, attracting more than 14 million visitors each year. The region’s popularity is further heightened by a packed calendar of events, such as the Cannes Film Festival, Monaco Grand Prix, Monaco and Cannes Yacht Shows, Les Voiles de SaintTropez and Thankfully,more.forthose eager to avoid the crowds and return to the old magic of the Cote d’Azur, there is a simple way to have it all: travel off season. Outside of major events, September and October – or pre-season in April and May – offer temperate weather without the crush of tourists and with no shortage of luxuries to enjoy. We begin our trip in Nice where, despite having left a rather chilly London behind, we’re greeted by blue skies and Mediterranean warmth in the mid-20˚Cs. As the central and largest city along the Cote d’Azur, Nice has all the charm of a European capital. »
52
It’s the perfect hub from which to plan a trip, shop in luxury boutiques and enjoy the Belle Époque and baroque architecture that lines the historic heart of the town. It’s in Nice that you will find the first glimpse of Italian influence in this region’s cuisine and style. If you want to really soak in the Riviera ambiance, however, then Cannes is the place to be when lunchtime rolls round. Home to the world’s most glittering film festival and Europe’s largest yacht festival alike, Cannes is, in many ways, the celebrity of the region. Wealthy visitors flock to Cannes each year to enjoy the sight of enormous megayachts, designer shopping along La Croisette, and world-class dining. And while such fine establishments are tempting, the local restaurants dotting the paths at the Port de Cannes call out with freshly caught moules and well-chilled champagne – the perfect fuel for our afternoon meander west across the Bay de Cannes – which inspired Picasso’s famous romantic landscape scene –and through the many charming villages that line the way to Saint-Tropez.
BUILT FOR BARDOT
How the sleepy fishing village of Saint-Tropez became synonymous with high luxury is almost down to screen goddess Brigitte Bardot. A fearless actor, timeless style icon and patron saint of SaintTropez, Brigitte first arrived in the village in 1956 to film And God Created Woman – the film that catapulted her to international stardom – and her star power soon transformed the area into a playground for the Superyacht set. So encompassing was Brigitte’s allure that she is even the inspiration behind of one of the village’s most remarkable landmarks: Hôtel Byblos SaintTropez. Infatuated with the actress, despite never having met her, Lebanese hotelier Jean-Prosper Gay-Para set about building a hotel worthy of Brigitte in attempt to win her heart. Designed to mimic the traditional Lebanese villages near GayPara’s home of Byblos, and brought to life with enchanting mosaics and sculptures dotted about the sumptuous grounds, the result was a mix of culture and cool at the heart of the Riviera. While Brigitte did visit the hotel once – to attend the opening party in 1967 – Gay-Para sold the hotel and its soon-to-be legendary nightclub, Les Caves du Roy, to entrepreneur Sylvain Floirat in June of the same year. Today, Byblos is quite unlike any hotel in the region. Now run by Sylvain’s great grandson Antoine Chevanne, who has extended the hotel to encompass 87 rooms (including 47 suites), Byblos retains its Lebanese-Mediterranean charm while injecting unique design and personality into every room. The most exciting by far is the recently launched Missoni Suite, a sprawling 180sqm apartment suite design by the colourful fashion house and overlooking the hotel’s courtyard and pool.
Executive chef Nicola Canuti – formerly executive chef of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester – presides over the hotel’s gastronomy, including Arcadia Saint-Tropez, with it’s delicious take on Mediterranean fare, to Cucina Byblos’ taste of authentic Italy. The Italian chef’s mastery is evident in the
53 finely made pastas and organic herbs – many of chef Nicola’s ingredients come from his 300sqm agroecological garden on the hotel’s ground – and seasonal ingredients dominant the changing menus, much to our delight. We would advise vegetarians and vegans to let the restaurants know dietary preferences ahead of dining, as meat-free options are few and far between at dinner – though the off-menu vegetarian ratatouille chef Nicola whips up for us is delicious enough to be a house fixture. Evenings are full of music, even pre-season, before Les Caves opens its famous doors to visitors keen to dance the night away at the favourite European nightclub of the Rolling Stones, Lauren Bacall, Jack Nicholson and Naomi Campbell. Live music is hosted in Lounge-Bar “B”, where guests can enjoy delicious cocktails and snacks while being serenaded by talented localDuringmusicians.theday, Byblos is a hub of relaxation above the bustle of shops and cafés in the village below. Lounge by the pool at the heart of the resort or indulge in a spa treatment or hammam at Spa Sisley, where the signature aromatherapy massages, body scrubs and facials wiped any hint of stress away. For a truly indulgent day, however, Byblos Beach is a must-visit for hotel guests. A natural extension of the hotel’s service, this elegant private beach club is short drive away on the Pampelonne beach front and encompasses a restaurant serving light Mediterranean cuisine and luxuriously comfortable sun loungers from where we lazed the day away, sipping on cocktails to the soothing backdrop of crashing waves, our leisure interrupted only by my occasional urge to take a bracing dip in the sea. » Return to the riviera: Byblos Beach (previous); Hôtel Byblos by night (top left); views over Saint-Tropez (above); Suite Missoni (left)
Turning into the famous courtyard of the Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo is breathtaking. It is lined with greenery and supercars alike, while Givenchy’s eponymous spa towers to the left and Michelin-star restaurant Yoshi to the right. The hotel was first built in 1886 on land belonging to Pope Leon XIII, and its most recent renovations have only enhanced the building’s original magic.
54
The uplift coincides perfectly with Metropole’s renewed determination to give its guests extra personalisation – from a programme of art installations in the foyer to private evening tours of the Oceanographic Museum – and even arranging elaborate proposals for romantic visitors. The hotel’s rooms and suites are equally refined and sumptuously decorated –particularly Jacques Garcia’s Carré d’Or suite, which offers panoramic views of Monte-Carlo from its 110sqm terrace. The rooms overlook the hotel’s Odyssey Lounge and heated sea-water pool, which is surrounded by a stylish glass fresco-styled installation designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Not to be outdone in the fashion stakes, of course, the hotel’s Spa Metropole by Givenchy is an oasis for the senses. From the moment I step inside, it is a balm away from the bustling city, with a range of bespoke scents to choose from, soothing music and fluffy Givenchy’sbathrobes.range of skin treatments are the perfect way to destress the skin or rejuvenate after a sunny holiday. I opt for the spa’s signature facial ‘Le Soin Noir’ – which offers 90 minutes of buffing, massaging and moisturising my face and neck until I am a relaxed and pampered puddle of perfectly toned and aglow features. An haute couture experience, indeed. With my skin fully nourished, it’s time to excite my tastebuds. For lunch, dining poolside at the lounge’s restaurant terrace is a lovely way to prepare for an afternoon of shopping but, for the true Metropole experience, Yoshi is a must-visit.Thisrestaurant is a masterpiece of Japanese cuisine, revitalised by the late Joël Robuchon and a favourite haunt of Monaco’s famous citizens – including a number of racing drivers. We are treated to Chef Takeo Yamazaki’s choice of dishes: first teased with a range of outstanding sushi starters before moving on to enjoy a perfectly prepared marinated and grilled black cod, all finished by a divine pistachio with almond panna cotta dish. With body and soul fully replenished from my stay, I was confident there could be no more surprises possible from this grand dame hotel. Until the morning, that is, when taking breakfast on the lobby terrace we find ourselves with a track-side seat to the Monaco ePrix’s qualifying laps as electric race cars zip dramatically round the Mirabeau Haute corner, just hours before we ready ourselves to leave. Truly the heart of the action. byblos.com; metropole.com
BILLIONAIRES’ PLAYGROUND
No trip to this region would be complete without a sojourn in the Principality of Monaco. Even along the affluent riviera, with its glittering stretch of holiday mansions, superyachts and five-star lifestyle, Monte-Carlo is still synonymous with excess. At the heart of this 202-hectare citystate is the Place du Casino, a palm tree-lined square renovated by landscaper Michel Desvigne in 2020. The Place is lined on each side by the city’s best examples of Belle Époque architecture –the Hôtel de Paris, Café de Paris Monte-Carlo and, of course, the Casino de Monte-Carlo itself, with contemporary artist Anish Kapoor’s The Sky Mirror sculpture taking its place at the centre of the stone esplanade. Idle away the hours at the Café or take some time shopping at the surrounding designer boutiques, before meandering along the promenade toward Port Hercule and its year-round display of remarkable superyachts. If you want an elegant stay that embodies Monaco’s reputation for personalised luxury and keeps you right in the heart of the action, there is only one choice.
Heart of the action: Views from Hôtel Metropole’s Carre d'Or suite; sumptius suites; the hotel’s iconic entrance TRAVEL
56
Of course, you can say classical music is a mix of all genres. You have rhythm, you have harmony and melody. Most importantly, we shouldn’t consider ourselves higher than any other genre – take rap as one example. To be a good rapper, you must have such good timing – it’s more than rhythm and tempo. It’s really the highest art in their field. In jazz, you must have improvisation. »
IMAGES BULGARI:
Rhythm of l fe Superstar conductor Lorenzo Viotti on the energising world of classical music, and keeping time as Bulgari’s new ambassador
Lorenzo, how do you mix tradition and innovation in your role as a conductor? I do a very old job. I constantly repeat pieces of music that were composed 200 years ago and have been played 6,000 times. It’s like trying to reinvent pasta carbonara – the recipe has existed for many years, but there’s still a chef that tries to take the ingredients and give you a new twist. I do the same with sound. Is it important to your work to have an understanding of different genres?
Words: Polly Jean Harrison O ne would be hard-pressed to find a more definitive model of the next generation of classical music talent than Lorenzo Viotti (right). With an impressive musical resume and handsome collection of prestigious awards, Lorenzo began his musical journey as a percussionist, exploring different genres and styles – even briefly playing in his sister’s metal band in order as a young man. As a conductor, he went on win the Cadaqués Orchestra International Conducting Competition In 2012, at just 22 years of age, and has followed this success with prizes in the Nestlé and Salzburg Festival Young Conductors Awards (2015), the MDR Sinfonieorchester (2016) and was named Newcomer of the Year at the International Opera Award in 2017. In the years since, the 32-year-old maestro has risen to the ranks of music director of the Gulbenkian Orchestra and chief conductordesignate of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, the Netherlands Chamber Orchestra, and Dutch National Opera. Another string to his bow – and a testament to his global acclaim – has been a new role with the Bulgari family, as its new global watches ambassador. Born in Lausanne, Switzerland, to a FrancoItalian family of musicians, Lorenzo is anything but your average conductor – and is just at home on a club dancefloor as he is in front of an“[Lorenzo]orchestra. embodies the boldness of our identity so perfectly well,” says Bulgari Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. “Like our watchmaking craftsmanship, Lorenzo fuses an Italian soul with a Swiss rigor. Time is the rhythm of music, we are proud to mark his talent with our timepieces.”
58
I recently conducted the premiere of [Jules Massene’s opera] Thaïs at Teatro alla Scala in Milan. Three hours later, I was in a techno club [dancing] to a legendary DJ. As classical musicians, we should all be very open and try to learn from others. What are some of the most exciting aspects of your work? You never know what might happen. You can rehearse as best as you can… but it’s all in the moment. You can never actually relax, as a conductor; you need to give everything. There’s something new every day, because we deal with people. On Monday I might be in Austria, then the next week is Asia, then America, and those cultures and relationships to emotions – to love, death, sex, money – are all different, so you have to always adapt yourself [and your performances], to give everything to the public. It’s quite exciting as a job. How important is the relationship between a conductor and the orchestra? Very important – on stage, you cannot lie. If the audience senses there’s no connection between the orchestra and the conductor you probably will have a very boring concert. But I’ve heard people say they wanted to be in the orchestra because they saw how much fun we were having. It can be very playful. We are not an art to be recorded. Classical music is a moment in time. Tell us about your new role as Bulgari’ s global watches ambassador? I’m very lucky to have been introduced to Bulgari. We share a lot of common ideas of excellence, and ways of rethinking what has been done already by mixing tradition and innovation. We meet on a lot of points in terms of respect for that tradition, as well as the vision of the future, elegance. We are just starting to develop something that will be a very exciting relationship. How do you like to spend your downtime? If I can escape cities and be in silence, surrounded by raw nature or under the water, this is where I feel happiest. In the middle of nature, this is where I can actually centre myself again, and relax my ears. You can’t really have that in the city, and it’s terrible for our frequencies. We’re not meant to listen to those noises – cars, honks, metal – and it’s not natural for the human ears. What are you listening to right now? I’m currently listening to Snoop Dogg’s new album BODR. It’s amazing – an album of 21 songs where he plays with old and new styles with West Coast and California deep hardcore beats. Where are you happiest performing? I have particular emotions toward some concert halls because of the memories they hold, or even just because the acoustics there were just out of this world. Wiener Musikverein in Vienna, the Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall, and Teattro alla Scala in Milan are just a few examples of special venues. bulgari.com YOU CAN REHEARSE AS BEST AS YOU CAN, BUT IT’S ALL IN THE MOMENT. YOU CAN NEVER ACTUALLY RELAX, AS A CONDUCTOR; YOU NEED TO GIVE EVERYTHING
59 Keeping time: Superstar conductor Lorenzo Viotti visits the Bulgari watch manufactory MUSIC
As Tempus celebrates 10 years of luxury, we bring together some of the innovative brands sharing our milestone birthday
BULGARI HOTEL LONDON This stand out luxury hotel and spa in London’s Knightsbridge is one of the jewels in the crown of the Bulgari Hotel collection. A haven of serenity just minutes away from Hyde Park and Harrods, it combines stylish architecture and design with exceptional amenities. Generously proportioned rooms and suites combine with facilities such as personal training centre and gym, world-class spa and swimming pool, 47seat screening room, cigar shop and sampling room and ballroom.
» bulgarihotels.com
GYMSHARK
BAILEY NELSON Australian eyewear brand Bailey Nelson (left) might not make the eyes water with their prices, but their fresh designs and clever materials are certainly a vision to behold. Established in Bondi Beach in 2012, and with boutiques in Australia, London, Canada and New Zealand, Bailey Nelson aims to simplify the process of buying glasses. Each frame is design in-house at the brand’s Sydney workshop, created using highquality and lasting materials such as customdesigned cellulose acetate or ultra-lightweight titanium and hand-assembled for that added touch. With an eye exam service in boutiques to boot, this brand is a sight for sore eyes.
62
Rarely does a gym brand hit the headlines quite like Gymshark (right). Founded in 2012 by a 19-year-old Birmingham native Ben Francis, the company is now valued at more than £1.25bn and has seen Ben rise to the top tier of inspirational leaders. Ben stepped down as CEO of the brand between 2015-2021 citing his youth, instead cycling through a variety of roles to really grow his understanding of market and business. While much can be said for Gymshark’s range itself – high quality, bold colours and cutting-edge material technology – it’s really the Gymshark ethos that captures the imagination so thoroughly. Ben believes that everything we do today, prepares us for tomorrow – and challenges us all to find our personal best. uk.gymshark.com
baileynelson.co.uk
nobleisle.com
HARRY SPECTERS Harry Specters Fine Chocolates (right)was set up in 2012 with the aim of empowering autistic people through award-winning chocolate. The family business and social enterprise was established by chocolatier Mona and her autistic son, Ash, who came up with the name. Not only does the Cambridgeshire chocolate factory involve autistic people at every stage of production – from making and packaging products to administration, design and photography – but for every £1 spent, 69p directly supports young autistic people through paid employment, work experience and training opportunities. Not only are these chocolates delicious – they are also good for you. harryschocs.co.uk
IMPROBABLE Improbable is, quite simply, the metaverse technology company, delivering the expertise and creative tech needed for businesses to harness the full potential of our growing virtual worlds and, as Web3 becomes the new common language, it is more exciting and important than ever. Founded by Cambridge Computer Science students Herman Narula (CEO) and Rob Whitehead (founding CTO) in 2012, and born out of the gaming and entertainment sectors, the British metaverse company provides the necessary infrastructure, technology and insight to build interconnected user experiences for economic, cultural and social change – whether that’s enriching multiplayer games, live interactive events, entertainment or social spaces. The future is now. » improbable.io
63
NOBLE ISLE, Fine fragrance, bath and body brand Noble Isle (right) truly brings together the best of British for any home spa. With natural, vegan and cruelty free products, sustainably made in the UK using natural extracts from local producers – including Yorkshire rhubarb, Irish samphire, Scottish barley and Welsh beetroot – Noble Isle celebrates its 10th birthday this year. With 11 fragrance collections from Rhubarb Rhubard! to Whisky & Water, all available in products ranging from shower gels and hand lotions to body scrubs and reed diffusers, Noble Isle creates a luxurious, relaxing and utterly indulgent experience for every season.
cavendishpianos.com CONCOURS OF ELEGANCE
Concours of Elegance is one of the most prestigious and elegant classic car events on the planet, and this year will be hosted at Hampton Court Palace from 2-4 September. The event first began at Windsor Castle in 2012, moving to St James’s Palace in 2013, Hampton Court in 2014 and then to Holyroodhouse – the Queen’s official Scottish residence in Edinburgh – the following year. It has now been hosted at Hampton Court, famously the residence of Henry VIII, since 2017. This year will see 60 of the world’s rarest cars – many of which have never been seen in the UK – over a three-day event, together with hundreds of fine motors from across the ages. concoursofelegance.co.uk
CAVENDISH PIANOS Award-winning Cavendish Pianos was founded in Yorkshire in 2012, and harnesses traditional British piano-making skills to keep 200 years of musical tradition alive and fresh. Cavendish Pianos are made by a collective of small businesses – known as the Craftman’s Co-Operative – each with their own skills, from piano builders, action specialists, stringers, cabinetmakers and piano tuners, and with patronage from the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. A range of three upright pianos and two grand pianos (left) are available in the Cavendish range, with a wealth of history in every key. »
This range of travel-inspired furniture and objets d’arts by Louis Vuitton has been made in collaboration with renowned designers for a decade. Big names include India Mahdavi, Marcel Wanders, Patricia Urquiola, Fernando and Humberto Campana (whose Bomboca Sofa is pictured) and Atelier Oï. Whether designing a hammock or stool, armchair to room screen, these limited-edition pieces all pay homage to the maison’s historic special orders – include the 1874 bed trunk made for French explorer Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza – while celebrating a diverse collection of global design stars. uk.louisvuitton.com
65
THE HONEST COMPANY Co-founded by actress and entrepreneur Jessica Alba (right), The Honest Company has gone from a small eco-beauty brand to a global success story and certified B-Corp. Alba wanted highquality eco-friendly baby products following the birth of her children, concerned they might suffer from similar sensitivities that she had as a child and, after finding her business partners Brian Lee, Sean Kane, and Christopher Gavigan, launched the brand in 2012 with 17 products. Today, The Honest Company produces and sells non-toxic nappies, cleaning products, prenatal supplements and cots. In 2015, Alba followed her success up with the launch of Honest Beauty, a range of skincare and makeup with the same toxin-free ethos. honest.com
LOUIS VUITTON OBJETS NOMADES
Merging style with innovative technology, users can access digital services right from the cuff of their signature blue denim jacket. Whether it’s sharing updates about your day, controlling music on the go or even taking a selfie with the flick of a wrist, the smart jacket is a prime example of technology blending with everyday wear. The Samsung NFC smart suit is also a sight to behold. Created in collaboration with Rogatis, the suit is inbuilt with an NFC tag in the sleeve button, which allows the wearer to control their phone without digging through pockets or bags. You can even use clothes and accessories to make payments, with payment jewellery –such as futuristic contactless payment rings to the subtler gem-encrusted bracelets – all making waves on the market. »
FUTURE-PROOFFASHION
Champion Qiyana in the virtual skin Louis Vuitton created for League of Legends, 2019
Start-up company Modern Meadow has created lab-grown leather without the use of animal products, with Bolt Threads also creating a leather-like fabric grown from mushrooms in an effort to make fashion more eco-friendly. Though tech can help fashion navigate the trials and tribulations it faces, the real pièce de résistance when it comes to injecting futuristic flavour into fashion is smart clothing and wearables. First debuting in 2015, these stylish pieces take fashion step further than smartwatches and fitness trackers. Smart wear has seen a particularly large boom in activewear, where garments can detect biometrics such as heart rate, body temperature and workout intensity. These come in a variety of tricked out products – including yoga pants, t-shirts, or even sports bras. The Levi commuter trucker jacket is a recent example of connected clothing, launched in 2020 from Google’s Project Jacquard platform.
66
As the world of fashion becomes ever more high-tech, we explore just some of the ways style is embracing virtual substance Words: Polly Jean Harrison W ith the world becoming ever more digital, fashion has received a high-tech makeover in recent years. From colour-changing bags to virtual dresses, technology seems to have a firm foothold in the industry, as many brands turn to science and engineering to tackle some of their biggest challenges. A classic example of this is sustainability, an ever-pressing concern in an industry dominated by fast-fashion and textile waste. With the world attempting to combat climate change, vegan alternatives have never been more popular, particularly in the luxury world. However, when it comes to eco-fabrics like vegan leather, the amount of plastic used means they’re not actually the most sustainable option. This is where tech comes into play, as brands are working on creating synthetic materials grown in the lab.
It’s not all bad news, however, as technology is being brought into the luxury fashion world via Artificial intelligence (AI) and Virtual Reality (VR). 2021 was really the year when fashion entered the metaverse, with the industry creating digital clothing and avatars for virtual worlds. NFTs have seen a particular interest pique – with Balmain becoming one of the first luxury brands to pursue multiple NFT projects.
The brand’s CMO Txampi Diz told Vogue: “The possibilities that the digital world offers to this industry are amazing, almost limitless.”
It’s not just NFTs though, with the use of virtual reality having slightly more practical applications – such as offering customers a virtual fitting room. Gucci launched an augmented try on feature allowing customers to try on sneakers via Snapchat, and you can try on virtual Louis Vuitton sunglasses from the comfort of your own home via LV’s interactive system.
Designers have even made an appearance in gaming: Louis Vuitton designed “skins” for League of Legends, Ralph Lauren created a Bitmoji wardrobe, and Moschino launched a collection inspired by The Sims that could be worn in-game.
DIGITAL DREAMS Despite this influx of technology prevalent in futuristic concept pieces, smartwear has yet to truly light up the runway. Though the high fashion world is certainly flirting with technological advancements, you won’t find too much in the way of biometrics and other smart wearables leaping off the catwalk yet.
AI has also been particularly helpful to brands looking to enhance their customer shopping experience. Not only can it analyse data to forecast market trends, but it can help companies offer customised product selections, so each customer can find exactly what they’re looking for. With the uptake in e-commerce over the last few years, these kinds of features have been essential for retailers looking to keep up. Although digital fashion makes increasing sense in our virtual world, it’s unlikely to eclipse society’s need for tangible clothing – at least, notNevertheless,yet. it’s clear that luxury fashion is going down a distinctively digital route, with designers experimenting with emerging technologies. Whether they’re keeping an eye on what comes next or if it’s just a trendy marketing ploy, when it comes to high fashion, the future really is now.
Long live tech: fashionmetaversefabricssustainabletotechnologywithexperimentingbrandsFashionaresmartcreateandpieces LUXURY FASHION IS GOING DOWN A WITHDIGITALDISTINCTIVELYROUTE,DESIGNERSEXPERIMENTINGWITHEMERGINGTECHNOLOGIES
before the gala. “The new Aqua Terra models have these beautiful coloured dials, which remind me of the ocean. I would totally wear this to go on a boat or go to the beach, and wear with my favorite outfit – a swimsuit.”
70
We head to Madrid to meet Omega brand ambassador and supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio, as she shares her style secrets at the launch of the brand’s Her Time exhibition Words: Michelle Johnson
A mong the art galleries and exhibition spaces dotting Madrid’s Calle de Larra, supermodel and fashion designer Alessandra Ambrosio (right) is perusing icons from more than 100 years of women’s watches. From Art Deco pendant pieces to the 1980’s Constellation, and up to the minute novelties, Omega’s Her Time exhibition is a momentous and rare collection. The travelling exhibition, which has been showcased in Shanghai, Paris and Milan, was made open to the public in June, launched by friend of Omega Alessandra and the brand’s CEO Raynald Aeschlimann with a spectacular gala evet in the gardens of the Palacio de Liria – home of the Dukes of Alba – where collectors, press and guests enjoyed canapes and cocktails while trying on historic timepieces at the vintage watch bar. “All of these beautiful timepieces on display have in some way influenced the watch I’m wearing tonight,” Alessandra said at the event; a nod to the brand’s history of watchmaking for women. She wore a 2022 De Ville Mini Trésor with Toile de Jouy double tour strap. “They’re all linked to a promise Omega made decades ago, to make women’s watches that work as beautifully as they look.” As well as looking back through history, the event saw Omega launch new timepieces for 2022 – including the De Ville Mini Trésors, Constellations with Aventurine dials in three colours, and a Seamaster Aqua Terra collection of sophisticated pastel dials and two sizes. “Her Time tells a story. Every chapter has its own surprises, moods and emotions, but there is always a golden thread tying it all together,” added Raynald. “It is Omega’s passion for precision, innovation and aesthetics, present in every women’s watch we have ever made.” Brazilian model and actress Alessandra, 41, first began working with Omega at the Rio de Janeiro Olympic Games in 2016, where the watchmakers were official timekeepers. Since that time, she has been the face of the Aqua Terra Ladies’ Collection, and starred in campaigns for the Omega Seamaster with Eddie Redmayne in 2017. “The first campaign I did with Omega was for the Seamaster, so I have a special [relationship] with the watch,” she says, taking us through this year’s novelties just hours
Takinghertime
The new pastel styling shone through in another of the brand’s novelties: the Constellation. “These are very special because of the colors,” says Alessandra. “I love the new dials and Roman numerals. There are a lot of different pastel colors to choose from. For me, this is a little bit more formal. You can dress it up for a gala, but also for a cocktail evening or something a little bit more special. That’s how I would pair the new Constellation: it looks really nice with neutral colors, so you can let just the watch pop.” Yet it was the most understated of the new novelties that Alessandra chose for her evening attire, the Mini Trésor with its double-length fabric straps. “It’s just so beautiful; they’re so summery,” she says. “It’s like a piece of art, with different patterns and colours. There are so many choices. I would wear with a summer dress, or casual denim or jeans and T-shirt. It’s a nice statement.” »
Raynald says one of the keys to Omega’s versatility of design is the historic importance the brand has always place on its women’s collections. “We’re not getting into a new world [of women’s watches] saying, this is an opportunity or a niche. No, we’ve always been in this segment. It’s just we are talking a bit louder,” he says. “The message was very clear, for me, that we’re a universal brand. I think that’s our future, and we should continue to do that. “We are inspired by the designs of the old days, while coming out with some new pieces,” he adds. “I think that in 30-40 years, people will still remember these coloured models, like the Aqua Terra, that have become part of our history.” Also looking the future, Alessandra – who has a daughter Anja Louise, 14, and son Noah Phoenix, 10 – is also keen to pass her collection to her “Watcheschildren.are something that you have for life and pass to your kids,” she says. “I remember my parents having watches that I would always admire… If you take care, it will last for decades. My son is already looking at my collection!” omegawatches.com
“I think fashion has opened the doors for diversity, and that includes age. With social media there are more voices for everyone – and fashion is not just for teenagers. I’ve been a model for a long time, and every job that I do, every day that I work, I get to learn more I know more about myself. It’s an evolution. It gets better every time.” Her style, she says, is ever changing – and so her watch collection is just as impressive as her wardrobes. Does she have a favourite? “It depends on the event, on my mood. I think that it’s important to dress the way you want. I think with the new Omega watches, there are so many different colors and they’re so versatile.
There are so many ways to play and have fun. There are just so many different models for any occasion, so it’s cool to be a collector.” she says –though she admits the Speedmaster has a special place in her “Whoeverheart.loves an Omega, loves a Speedmaster. It’s a classic. That was the first one that I owned. It’s very bold but it’s casual. It’s a little bit heavier, but it’s not just a men’s watch; women can wear it too. It’s a nice statement. you don’t need anything else: I love denim jeans, a T-shirt, and my Speedmaster.”
STATEMENT STYLE
72
Stop the clock: Supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio and Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann opened the Madrid Her Time exhibition with an exclusive gala event
Discovered at the age of 12, Alessandra began her modelling career in earnest at 15 when she competed in Brazil’s Elite Model Look competition. She was soon appearing in campaigns for Gucci, Christian Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta and many more, but became a household name as a Victoria’s Secret Angel (2004 to 2017). Her design work has included an eponymous 2004 swimwear line, and fashion brands Ále by Alessandra, launched in 2014, and GAL Floripa, launched in 2019. “I grew up in a small town, so to start [in] fashion – to find a good agent or to get pictures to put in a portfolio – was very hard. Now, I think it’s much easier to enter this industry. It is more inclusive. I think it’s easier for young girls, they have more chances to start a career, to have clients and even portray [themselves] on social media, so everything has changed.
75 INDULGE
One year after the triumphant reopening of Brora, we look to the future of this legendary revival
Words: Gabriel Power I t’s no secret that the 1980s was a brutal stretch for the Scotch industry, with several distilleries forced to shutter their doors, rugged buildings abandoned to weather the Scottish elements, and their unique nectars confined to the memories of those lucky enough to sample them. But a number of these lost whiskies enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the 2000s as ghost distillieries, when expressions once thought lost to history were re-bottled and re-sold, having been aged for upwards of three decades. One such establishment has turned more heads than most; the legendary Brora, thought to have filled its last-ever cask in 1983, having built a significant and loyal following over its previous 202 years of operation. Brora’s single malt was key to the finest of Scotch blends and, enjoyed on its own, defined the ‘age of peat’. The prestige of its malt became clear when, in 2019, a bottle of Brora 1972 Limited Edition 40-Year-Old sold at Sotheby’s for a distillery record of £54,450. By this point, the titanic hands of Diageo had already pledged to restore Brora it to its former glory and, in 2021, Stewart Bowman, son of the last exciseman at Brora, reopened the gates to fill the first casks in more than 38 years. The first release from the distillery, unveiled in April of that year, was the Brora Triptych – a three-piece collection of extremely rare single malt whiskies each representing a distinct style of Brora’s heritage. Furthermore, Diageo’s £35m funding of the site has also involved a major investment in sustainable operations — Brora is a fully carbon neutral distillery, making it a rarity in the industry and helping Diageo achieve its lofty sustainability goals. One year on, we speak exclusively to some of the key figures behind the distillery’s revival and find out what makes Brora so special. »
STILL LIFE
JACKIE ROBERTSON Brora’s first ever female Master Distiller shares her passion for her craft I’ve always been inspired by the windswept coastlines of [Scotland’s] east coast and when the opportunity presented itself to work with a distillery such as Brora I knew that this would be a journey of a lifetime. The local community has always been integral to Brora, from the team that works at the distillery to the local businesses that support what we do. When the news broke that the distillery will be reopening, the local community was thrilled. Every part of the process is important, from the selection of the barley in the field to the malting process, mashing, fermentation and distillation and maturation, but the stills are particularly special as they are the same copper stills that were in place in 1983 when the distillery closed. They were refurbished and reinstated for the distillery’s revival. The stills play a large part in the final spirit of Brora. We only have two stills, one wash and one spirit, which means that the distillation process is slow and therefore the vapour interactions within the stills add to the complexity of Brora spirit. We are using all of our skill and knowledge to create fermentation, distillation and maturation regimes that meticulously produce a whisky that will match the character and quality of the illustrious Brora predecessors. We are at the very early stage of recreating the Brora spirit to match the quality and character of earlier releases. This means there is fine tuning to be carried out at each stage of the process. Distilleries have character and it takes time for them to allow you, as a distiller, to influence them.
Revival: Brora’s rugged landscape (left and inset) is key to the whisky’s iconic taste; right, sunset on the distillery’s famous wildcat gates
TO KNOW
PARTANWITHWORKINGYOU’RESUCHIMPORTANTOFWHISKYHISTORYISINCREDIBLE–DrCraigWilson
77
DR CRAIG WILSON Brora’s Master Blender describes the distillery’s mystique and the flavours it became famous for Closed back in 1983, the quality and rarity of Brora’s whisky has driven its collectability. The value of bottles of Brora has increased significantly during this time, including when it was featured for the first time as part of the annual Special Releases Collection – and demand now exceeds the supply of this precious stock. To know you’re working with such an important part of whisky history is incredible. These casks have lain untouched for decades so it is great to be able to introduce them to the world. It’s always daunting working with such a revered whisky as Brora, there’s a great deal of pressure to do justice to the incredible craftsmanship at the distillery, and indeed the influence of time, which has shaped the individual whiskies into such spectacular examples [of Brora’s style]. Brora is very unique for a Highland whisky, in that not only does it have that classic smokiness, but it also possesses a waxy character that is rarely found in modern whiskies. This not only adds a lovely tropical fruit note to the nose, but also gives a wonderful smooth, luxurious mouthfeel. We’ve spent considerable time and effort studying our archives and optimising the processes at the distillery, and as such we’re confident that the new Brora whiskies will sit amongst the best in the world, however we’ll have to wait two or three decades before we know for sure. »
ADRIENNE GAMMIE Diageo’s Global Brand Director for Malt Whiskies on the allure of Brora and its sustainable ethos
78
The decision to restore Brora and Port Ellen was made in October 2017, partly as a response to the demands from whisky enthusiasts but also as a result of the strong growth in Single Malt Scotch and the opportunity to create a new generation of whisky consumers. Brora is now a carbon neutral distillery after the installation of a biomass boiler to provide energy for the original stills [left]. The biomass boiler is fuelled by woodchip from sustainable sources in the North of Scotland. This forms part of our ‘Society 2030: Spirit of Progress’ plan which will see Diageo achieve net zero carbon emissions across our direct operations and use 30% less water in every drink we make by 2030. In many decades time as the first new make whiskies from Brora are introduced to the world, I hope that this time in Scotch Malt Whisky history will be looked upon favourably. We are in an exciting period for the whisky industry with records being broken, ghosts reawakened and new distilleries opening and look forward to reflecting on it in years to come. The reopening demonstrates that while Scotch whisky remains first and foremost a wonderful drink that everyone enjoys, it can also be something elusive and timeless; a priceless treasure on par with the world’s greatest wines and champagne. Furthermore, it shows that the Scotch whisky industry now has the level of confidence to make such investments in its longterm future.
INDULGE
Some of the most recent expressions that have come from Brora include bottlings within the Prima and Ultima collection, particularly the Brora 1981 from the third release, which is available to purchase as an individual bottle for the first time this year. This Brora 1981 is considered the rarest publicly available whisky from the distillery; a single malt that shows a more fragrant, less peated side to the classic style. Those who have also been lucky enough to visit the distillery have had the opportunity to purchase the distillery exclusive, the Brora 1982 39-Year-Old. A big, bold and waxy expression from this critically acclaimed distillery.
The Scotch whisky community has long been passionate about the revival of Brora with many of them holding long-harboured ambitions to one day see it back in production. Brora is known across the world for its exquisite whisky, so the news of its revival was received well. Not only does it produce outstanding whisky but it is an archive to a time gone by – so people were thrilled to hear that it was to be restored to its former glory. This distillery has been resurrected, brick by brick. It shows the confidence we have in its unique spirit and offering, and invokes a feeling of pride as we welcome future generations to the distillery to experience Brora in all its glory.
79
It will be a number of years before Brora will release its first whiskies following its restoration but we do know that the restored spirit will honour the historic flavour profile from the distillery. I eagerly await our first tastings.
TOD L BRADBURY Justerini & Brooks’ head of rare & collectable whiskies on anticipating Brora’s future releases
Service charges and amenities
Parking Though living in Central London offers the benefit of public transport on your doorstep, the freedom of owning your own vehicle still rings true for many buyers. But limited properties offer garages or private spaces, so parking should be high on the list of non-negotiables if this is important to you. With electric cars on the rise, It’s also worth looking at where your nearest charging points are.
Take your time to seek perfection London is a long-term investment, with the cost of buying property rising significantly over the past decade. To see meaningful capital appreciation, you must take a long-term view of five years plus.
Looking to buy your next home in Prime Central London? Camilla Dell, founder and managing partner of award-winning Black Brick Property Solutions, is an expert in finding the perfect properties for her high-networth clients. Here, Camilla shares her top tips when searching for your dream home or next investment Homes with no outside space Between home working trends and recordbusting heatwaves, outside space has never been more important to buyers and is often top of their wish lists. Whether a balcony, private garden or communal space, a property with outside space always makes for a better investment. After recently securing a new home for a client, they also asked us to help sell a central London apartment they owned. As it had no outside space, no study or work from home space, we advised the client to hang onto their property until better market conditions return. Ex-rental apartments Since the pandemic, and with an increase in challenging legislation combined with tax changes for landlords, the market has been flooded with ex-rental apartments as private landlords exit the buy-to-let market. Despite seeming cost-effective, make sure to do your research. Some ex-rental proerties often come with a warning, such as cladding issues, lack of outside space, distance from a park or green space, limited transport links, or a high density of apartments in the immediate surrounding area. This type of property often sits on the market for a long time, with no sign of a buyer. Unmodernised properties While a ‘strip it back and start again’ project can look like a fun and fulfilling exercise, it may not be a cost-effective decision. In sought-after areas like Notting Hill, there is little price difference between an unmodernised property versus a ready to move in property. With high build costs now the norm, it’s crucial to run the numbers and get specialist advice if you intend to make changes to a property before making an offer – it’s no good buying a property thinking you can dig a basement or knock down a wall, only to find out you can’t. Even small changes that seem relatively straightforward can be prohibited in some leases. It’s always best to take specialist advice before submitting your offer on an unmodernised property.
BRICKBYBRICK
black-brick.com
Properties with a low EPC rating
A property’s EPC rating is of vital importance, and will be even more relevant for rental investments from 2025, as all newly rented properties will be required to have a certification rating of C or above by 2028. Our advice for any new entrants to the buy-to-let market is to look for properties with an appropriate rating, as the cost to reduce a property’s EPC rating can be significant.
The sound of the continental lifestyle London is a cosmopolitan hub, which is one reason it is beloved by so many. But, with the taste for outdoor living increasing, and al fresco restaurants now gracing our pavements, purchasing a property on or near a high street could be a recipe for disaster. The sound of revellers making merry into the night could be a long-term issue to consider, so it is important to visit at peak hours to understand the surroundings.
80
When transport is a negative Imagine this – you’re viewing a property, you love it; you can picture your family gathered around the dining table for supper. Then, you hear a distant rumble, glasses trembling in the cupboard until, as quickly as it’s arrived, it’s gone. Train or tube affected property is a big no. Even if the house itself is the idyll you were after, close transport lines will seriously impact the property’s value and future saleability. Amazingly, estate agents don’t have to state whether a property is train or tube affected. A good tip is to have a look at where underground lines on a map run, and then check the position of the property relative to the tube line. It’s also a good idea to visit the property at different times of day. A recent client visited a property in the early evening only to find the area was overcrowded as people travelled home at rush hour. When considering a new purchase, it’s important to familiarise yourself with the area around the property.
In the words of writer and Holborn resident Dr Samuel Johnson, “There is in London all that life can afford”. Investing your time, as well as your pennies, is the way to succeed in this exciting city. Above all, always take specialist advice and remember that the estate agent doesn’t work for the buyer.
As Prime Central London developments get ever more luxurious, service charges have been mounting year-on-year. These charges tend to reflect the quality of the buildings and the amenities on offer, but it’s worth considering the impact inflation can have on the annual charge. If you’re buying property as an investment, take note of the service charge before buying – as this is a cost that you, the landlord, will have to bear.
One of London’s newest property developments, Belvedere Gardens at the Southbank is courting the rich and famous with a penthouse so luxurious it has made headlines across the country. With unmatched comfort, one-of-a-kind bespoke art and unrivalled views over the city, it’s time to take a closer look...
Words: Gabriel Power “A nother amazing view,” says Jo Goddard, co-founder of interior design company Goddard Littlefair, as we swing open the door to a master bedroom pouring sunlight through enormous floor-toceiling windows that look out onto the Thames. Jo’s enthusiasm is barely contained, despite having no doubt set foot in this property dozens of times. “I just love London and the South Bank.”
Considering the grand creations her design firm has concocted here, in one of London’s most sought-after neighbourhoods, I imagine the feeling is mutual; the property in question is The Penthouse at Belvedere Gardens, a staggering 3,778sq ft, four-bedroom behemoth of a luxury apartment, priced at £17m. Serving as the jewel in the crown of the new Southbank Place development towering over the Thameside district, the western-facing property offers views so remarkable — and that so capture the essence of London — that they seem to resemble an unrealistic composite image one might see on a postcard. The Thames, the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye; they’re all here, practically climbing over each other to be centre stage of this panorama. As the brains behind this opulent 20thfloor penthouse, Jo was aware from the start that visitors would likely be overawed by the impressive vistas offered by the property – even from the east-facing windows at the back, the views are stunning. However, this is no mere viewing deck, but a prime example of world-class luxury real estate design, defined by meticulous attention to detail, trend-setting artwork, and no small number of subtle nods to the history of this marvellous city. “We know that the buyer of this property is likely to be someone who has multiple homes of this calibre throughout the world,” Jo says, standing in the centre of the living room, which takes a similar open plan form to much of the rest of the apartment. “We felt that we had to elevate our design beyond what they might expect; after all, these guys have seen everything. But rather than elevating the space in a way that is overly gilded or ‘blingy’, we tried to unravel what their ideal sophisticated London property might look like. “We had to ask ourselves endless questions to get it right. How many master bedrooms would they need? How much storage space should be provided? Will they be entertaining guests? How much of a functional kitchen do they need? Once we have our answers, we build a base palette and then embellish ideas from there.” »
HIGH&MIGHTY
82
83 Words:
84
EASY LIVING The Penthouse at Belvedere Gardens is something of a unicorn property, expertly straddling several conceptual, aesthetic and domiciliary lines. It is homely, yet grand; airy, yet cosy; artistically prosperous, yet not remotely ostentatious. It overlooks one of the mostvisited destinations in not just London but perhaps Europe, yet it feels firmly detached from the grinding mass of tourists. Such is the tranquillity afforded by its considerable altitude and ultra-effective soundproofing. It feels like living among the clouds as the world carries on below, both literally and figuratively. “We like to think there’s a strength to all of it. Building up all the threads and narratives about what a potential owner might want from a property like this gives you something really tangible to work with,” Jo says. “We’re not just going to buy something off the shelf, or hang up black-and-white photos of St Paul’s, you know? We’re going to go a lot more in-depth than that. That’s the beauty of working with Studio Graphite. They have access to the right people and a sense for when something really works and hangs together. “After all, to create an apartment like this – to play with colours and styles in such a manner that every room has its own personality while remaining luxurious – I think you need to be quite brave, don’t you?”
ART & DESIGN Evidently, one of the firm’s brightest ideas was to enlist the services of Studio Graphite, a bespoke artistry studio founded by Patrick O’Neill, Louise Seabrook and Quentin Wright. As we move from sculpture to sculpture, weaving around the furniture, Louise and Quentin talk us through their evident passion for their craft – as well as their impressive creative investment in this project. The artistic centrepiece of the apartment is the original wall sculpture Icarus, a playful, elegant work consisting of helixing strips of gold, cut and shaped by hand. The piece is lively and energetic, off to the side and slightly inset from the full-aspect windows that dominate the space. “Our early thought when we first saw the penthouse was that we had to make the most of the incredible light pouring in,” Quentin says. “Icarus is inspired by nature, by bird’s wings.”
The piece was cut and shaped by Simon Day, an expert metalworker and neighbouring artist in Studio Graphite’s HQ. Moving across the traditional parquet wooden floor – picked by Jo and her team to evoke a mid-century English study – is the dining space, connected to the living room by virtue of the open-plan layout. This is Louise’s moment to shine: her own original artwork hangs on the walls, mirroring the marble dining table, which contains a unique patchwork of textures and colours. “We wanted something that was going to sit well on the wall covering, and the immediate reference for us were the materials used to create this fantastic tabletop,” Louise says. “The marble’s random assortment of colours and shapes informed the decisions when creating the paintings. We wanted something that was geometric; that had a naturally graphic element to work with. And we got that with this table.”
studiographite.co.ukgoddardlittlefair.com;southbank-place.com;
The master bedroom, meanwhile, plays host to the most agonisingly detailed artwork in the property. Housed in an acrylic case is an almost impossibly fragile piece consisting of hundreds of strips of hand-ripped paper, arranged into a circular pattern and spaced evenly to the tune of fractions of millimetres, painted to create a head-scratching 3D effect akin to a holographic image. It is worth taking a moment to pore over, purely to attempt to gauge where the inspiration for such a piece came from. As the overseer of this particular work, Quentin describes – with good humour – the many painstaking weeks it took to assemble the piece. “Each strip of paper is hand ripped, with the height of the undulations left by the rips not deviating by more than five millimetres in either direction. My assistant Freya helped me, thank God. She has more patience – and steadier hands – than me. “The main [inspiration for this piece] is the Thames itself and the ripples on the water. Paper has an incredible quality whereby if you manipulate it just right, because of the ripped edges, you are left with varying translucency. It is illuminated in different ways depending on both the angle you view it from, and the time of day.”
85 DESIGN
Sky high design: The penthouse at Belvedere Gardens is styled to make the most of
the extraordinary views
SETTING THE PACE
From those two moments, champagne – or more precisely the spraying of it – has become the quintessential sign of motorsport success. Now, 55 years on from Gurney’s defining moment, I find myself on something of a to celebrate another momentous moment in motorsport history – Jaguar’s Le Mans win in 1988. »
The second was legendary racer Dan Gurney, who stood atop of the podium after winning the gruelling 1967 Le Mans 24 Hours race. When a fresh magnum of champagne was handed to him, he popped the cork, put his thumb over the top and shook it vigorously, spraying all around him, including his team boss, Henry Ford II, son of the founder of the mighty American carmaker.
Raise a glass to a titan of motorsport, as we celebrate Jaguar’s historic 1988 Le Mans win with the brand new F-Pace SVR Edition 1988 Words: Rory FH Smith S ince the 17th century, champagne and success have been inseparable bedfellows. Aside from its early association with European royalty, who adopted it as the drink of choice for celebrations, the sparkling wine has long links with sporting achievement; none more so than in the glamourous world of motorsport. Depending who you ask, there are two characters linked to the popularisation of champagne in motorsport. The first was Count Frédéric Chandon de Briailles – otherwise known as the Champagne Count – who was rumoured to have handed out bottles of the stuff to the winners of the French Grand Prix in the 1930s, when it was held at the historic Rimes circuit in the heart of the country’s Champagne region.
MOTORING
In the details: The Jaguar F-Pace SVR Edition 1988 references the Le Mans-winning XJR-9
FOR A BRAND THAT ENVISIONS ITS FUTURE IN ELECTRIC CARS, THE F-PACE SVR EDITION 1988 IS AN APT SEND-OFF FOR ITS SUPERCHARGEDRAUCOUSV8
88 A SUBTLE ENHANCEMENT My mode of transport to get to the French region is none other than the latest special edition F-Pace SVR Edition 1988, which pays homage to the iconic purple and gold Silk Cut liveried, wedge-shaped Jaguar XJR-9 that took the chequered flag that very year. While Jaguar’s F-Pace SUV might not seem like the natural candidate to reference a sleek, slippery and brutal Le Mans racer, its gloss purple paint job and champagne gold rims certainly make an impact. Aside from the not-so-subtle exterior touches, the Edition 1988 is every bit as aggressive as the regular F-Pace SVR. Setting eyes on it for the first time in Mayfair on a still summer morning, I can confirm that the Jaguar wears its potentially risky mix of paint shades well. Black in some lights and glittering amethyst in others, the Edition 1988’s purple paintwork stands apart from the sea of black, grey and silver cars drifting alongside as I pull through the city and out towards the south coast. As one of only 394 that will be made worldwide, the quantity references the exact number of laps the XJR-9 completed at Le Mans in 1988 – and, handily, the exact number of miles I’ll be travelling down to the Champagne region to toast the new car and Jaguar’s mighty motorsport past. Nestled in the comfort of the SVR’s sports seats, the subtle touches on the interior, including the open-pore carbon fibre, the 1988 badging and gold details are easy to live with and enhance the experience, serving as a reminder of the car’s exclusivity. Even on long blasts down the French motorway, it’s a delightful place to watch the golden fields and rolling hills rush by as I aim south, in the direction of Reims. »
jaguar.co.uk A toast to the future: The Jaguar F-Pace SVR Edition 1988 in France
In an age where new combustion cars are hard to come by, Jaguar’s latest creation is a full-fat, V8engined cat with a penchant for performance.
While I won’t be spaying it quite like Gurney, or handing out bottles like the Champagne Count, sipping on a wine that’s grown a stone’s throw from where I’m standing is a wonderful way to toast Jaguar’s mighty racing past.
Once off the main roads and close to my final destination, I make an important detour to the remains of the historic racing circuit outside Reims. Once home to the French Grand Prix, the Reims-Gueux circuit held races between 1926 and 1972 – a period that saw Jaguar make history with several victories.
BACK TO THE FUTURE
91 Sporting Jaguar’s 5.0-litre V8 supercharged petrol engine under the bonnet, the Edition 1988 is capable of making the 0-60mph dash in just 3.8 seconds and can run on to a top speed of 178mph. With all-wheel drive and 542 bhp to play with, the temptation to blast out of the gates at every toll is difficult to resist. With Sport mode selected and the active exhaust engaged, the sound the Edition 1988 makes as it scurries off in a hurry is monstrous; as is the feeling inside as the F-Pace heads towards the horizon like a scalded animal.
The first came with Sir Stirling Moss behind the wheel of the legendary C-type, where he won in 1952 and 1953, before the equally iconic D-type followed up with more wins in 1954 and 1956 on the circuit. In short, the eerie remains of the Reims circuit still ring to the sound of Jaguar’s mighty motorsport past – something I bear in mind as the noise of the Edition 1988 reverberates around the site while I blast off down the start-finish straight towards my final destination. The twisting, switchback roads that weave their way through the 34,300 hectares of vineyards in the Champagne region are a welcome change from the monotony of the motorway. Not only is it a treat to chuck the athletic F-Pace through the turns but they lead to my destination, the Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa. Parked up and cooling off in the evening sun, Jaguar’s latest limited edition makes for an enormously fun way to travel, while its unique colours and details reference the marque’s many moments of motorsport success over the years. For a brand that envisions its future in electric cars (from 2025), the Edition 1988 is an apt send-off for its raucous supercharged V8.
While Jaguar’s future is yet to be seen, whatever comes next will be building on a racing and road car heritage like no other. As I stand overlooking thousands of hectares of vines and wine production, the hotel and its Michelin-star restaurant is the ideal place to raise a glass at the end of a long day of driving.
As aviationandcreationsadvancedtechnologicallyinsidetakesreturn,itsAirshowInternationalFarnboroughmakeslong-awaitedTempusalookthemostincivilmilitary Words: Gabriel Power
It’s also a chance for airlines, manufacturers and enthusiasts to come together in celebration of all things aviation. »
W hen it comes to aviation, ‘Business’ is a difficult concept to define at the best of times. But, on the tarmac at Farnborough Airport during the venue’s first edition of its famed Farnborough International Airshow to have been held in four years, it took on an even more unusual veneer. UK thermometers had just topped 40˚C for the first time in recorded history, and I stood alongside besuited businesspeople from across the globe, peering up into the sun to catch a glimpse of a brand new, 400+ seater jet aircraft doing aerobatic manoeuvres it would never repeat while in service. Among the crowd, I heard hushed snippets of excited gossip: “Boeing have just signed a contract with…”, “Qatar Airways are thinking of expanding their fleet…”. Suddenly, a piercing howl punctuated proceedings as a pair of F-35s whipped past, afterburners glowing and, at the same moment, I was offered a top-up for my glass of champagne. If this is how business is done in aviation, count me in.
The Airshow is a biennial behemoth of a showcase of the latest in aviation, be it civilian, cargo, executive or military. With the 2020 edition skipped due to Covid-19, there was an electric atmosphere among the crowds, with Boeing, Airbus and Embraer all due to show off their shiny new creations alongside a slew of military aircraft from around the world. Alongside several similar global expos, Farnborough is a window into the industry’s inner machinations, offering macroeconomic context and cementing the coming trends in technology and sustainability.
“For [Farnborough] in particular; we’re the largest business aviation airport in the UK and the fourth-largest in Europe and we are a key entry point to London and the southeast of England. We have a key role to play in supporting business aviation and travel.”
farnboroughairport.comfarnboroughairshow.com;
The airport is undergoing a significant overhaul in the name of sustainability, and Geere’s Roadmap to Net Zero by 2030 scheme is effectively leaving no stone unturned around the airport, from replacing hanger heating systems, to switching from diesel to waste oil for ground vehicles. “It’s all part of our desire to lead the crowd and be a global showcase for airport sustainability,” he says. “We were the first business aviation airport to become carbon neutral in 2018, and this is part of our ongoing drive to lead from an environmental perspective, and to be net zero by 2030 — or sooner.” If the Airshow is anything to go by, and if enough industry participants follow Farnborough Airport’s lead, the future of aviation will likely be one in which passengers — both private and commercial — can rest assured that nearly every element of their journey is as environmentally conscious as possible, from the shuttle bus to the car park to the auxiliary ground power units that keep the planes running at the gate. It might just give us all a bit more peace of mind as we take to the skies.
IT’S IMPORTANT THAT AIRCRAFT BECOME COMMUNITYENVIRONMENTALLYMOREANDAURALLYFRIENDLYASWELOOKTODRAWTHEBACKINTOTHEAEROSPACESECTOR
Trends in the aerospace sector tend to last a considerably longer time than other industries. Rather than talking about yearly or biannual trends, we would more talk about decade-wide trends, looking to 2030 or even 2040. At present, fuel efficiency and sustainability are the hot topics; this could be seen in all three of the main civil aircraft projects on display. Boeing wowed the crowd with a rather flamboyant demonstration of its new 777-9, now officially the longest commercial aircraft ever built, seating a staggering 426 passengers. With two enormous GE9X engines built exclusively for this aircraft by General Electric, it consumes a remarkable 12 percent less fuel than similar twin-engine competitors, with 10 percent lower operating costs. Airbus, meanwhile, remains focused on range. The European giant brought out a new variant of its A350-900, dubbed the “Airspace Explorer” and featuring a “cross-programme flight test platform for demonstrating new innovations which could be featured in the future in all Airspace cabins”, as the manufacturer puts it. While non-Explorer variants of this model have been in service since 2015, they bolster Airbus’s claim to the throne of fuel-efficient and thus long-distance flight; the A350-900ULR (UltraLong-Range) model has a firm hold on the record for the longest-range passenger aircraft ever built at just short of 10,000 miles — enough to fly Singapore to New York City direct. Shortly after the A350 on display here had jetted back off to Airbus’ headquarters in Toulouse, Brazilian manufacturer Embraer rolled out arguably the most impressive creation of the show: the E190-E2, a narrow-body jet that actually failed to turn heads when it rocketed skyward, as it is so uniquely quiet. Noise pollution remains one of the most frequent complaints that communities level against commercial aviation and, with governing bodies incrementally lowering the volume threshold for jet aircraft, Embraer installed geared turbofan engines, allowing the turbine blades to spin significantly slower, lowering the noise footprint and, once again, increasing fuel efficiency. From here, it’s all military aircraft. A Turkish military helicopter zips around defying gravity here, a handful of South Korean fighters zoom past there. And, behind the scenes, pulling all the strings on this spectacular day, is Farnborough Airport CEO, Simon Geere. “After four years, the sense of occasion was fantastic, and it’s great for the airport and the town of Farnborough to have it back,” he said. “It gave me a feel for the breadth of the industry this time — I think it reminded us how important the aviation industry is to not just the region, but the whole of the UK in terms of jobs and the economy. “It was fascinating to see the advancements in fuel efficiency, and it was amazing how quiet some of the aircraft were; it’s so important that aircraft become more environmentally and aurally friendly as we look to draw the community back into the aerospace sector as part of the UK’s pandemic recovery. This applies to commercial and executive travel.” Geere’s takeaways on what the show demonstrated about industry trends were full of optimism. “It showed us that there is a strong resurgence in the aerospace sector, for sure, and we heard from a lot of keynote speakers about how the industry will be a key avenue of support for the UK economy going forward.
AVIATION
– Simon Geere, Farnborough Airport
Taking flight: The Black Eagles aerobatic team (previous); Guests view the new Boeing 777X 9 (opposite) and Leonardo AW149 military helo (below left)
Words: Behiye Hassan & Lysanne Currie “I ’d love to see Sprout be a lighthouse of inspiration,” says Michael Stausholm (opposite) – and he’s not referring to the little green vegetables. It’s been nine years since the Danish entrepreneur founded the sustainable pencil company Sprout World. As he says, “There’s been lots of ups and downs and challenges.” But Sprout’s also been something of a success story, boasting high-profile customers such as Michelle Obama and Sir Richard Branson.
Stausholm originally came from the shipping industry, spending almost 15 years in Asia before entering the textile business. He returned to Europe in 2006 as a consultant, and it was while browsing the Kickstarter website once day in 2013, while in his early-40s, that he stumbled across an invention that would change his life.
Sustainability, storytelling and blockchain-enabled supply chain transparency. Danish entrepreneur Michael Stausholm brings all of this and more – into plantable pencils
THE write MOVE
96
Robotics students at MIT had created a page to highlight a special pencil they’d made. It contained a capsule full of seeds “at the end where you will normally have the eraser... So you use the pencil to write with then, once it’s worn down, simply plant it in a pot. The capsule dissolves. And then you take care of it and water it like any normal plant.”
Stausholm recognised that businesses wanted to be sustainable but weren’t sure how to go about it. “I thought the pencil was a fantastic way of illustrating what sustainability is,” he says. “You have a product, you use it for one purpose, and instead of throwing it away when you’re done, you use it for another purpose. In the case of the Sprout pencil, you’re literally giving it new life by planting it.” He got in touch with the students, who had originally been looking for investors all over the world, and bought the rights to manufacture the sustainable pencils in Minnesota, USA, initially self-financing the company. “But very quickly, it became evident that it was not very sustainable to produce in the US.” However, sales exploded in Europe. He purchased the patent, opened another manufacturer in Poland to serve the whole European continent, and soon the company was global. Today, Sprout’s HQ is based in Copenhagen, with an office in Boston and employees all over Europe. To date, it’s sold over 40 million pencils. Says Stausholm, “It’s much more than a product – it’s what we call a green messenger. Many of our customers get messages or logos engraved and printed on the pencils and the packaging. That way they can actually build a story around what they’re doing on Havingsustainability.”awholebusiness built around its values has garnered much media exposure; and » along with high-profile customers, parents have also been purchasing pencils “to give to the kids for writing and colouring – but also to teach them about sustainability. Sprout paints is also a very popular gift. It’s not only a great gift, it also says a lot about you, that you are concerned about sustainability.”
Meanwhile, the best businesses advice he’s ever received is to always believe in yourself, “because if you don’t believe in yourself, no one else will.” He illustrates his point with a story. “One night, six months into founding Sprout, I was extremely busy and extremely stressed, worrying that I hadn’t made much money yet. I asked a very good friend what he thought I should do. And he said, ‘Well, listen, I think you should get a real job, where you make money again, and are able to provide for your family.’ And I had to think about that for a few days. But then I thought, ‘Well, I believe in this, and I want to do this, and I can do this.’ I decided to continue. And the end of that story is that actually that same friend invested a very big amount of money in Sprout – which of course, he had to pay much more for, because it was a year later. We laugh a lot about that.” sproutworld.com
Sprout even has its own chief sustainability officer on its team. In the interests of transparency, Sprout World is also using blockchain technology to open up its entire supply chain to customers. “Blockchain is a way to authenticate where you get your materials from and document your whole value chain. In our case, you will be able to see where the seeds come from, where the wood for your specific pencil comes from, and so on. It will be completely transparent on our website.”
His main goal is to focus on growing the business further, branching into other consumer product lines such as makeup. In 2021, Sprout launched an all-natural, vegan, AllergyCertified beauty line with eyeliners and browliners that, like the pencils, can be planted to grow into wildflowers. “It’s a challenge,” he admits. “A different target group and a different way of
98 communicating. Makeup is much more complex than a Ultimately,pencil.”
Reducing its carbon footprint even further, Sprout recently purchased land in Poland on which to grow 12,000 trees near the production facilities. “Sustainability is in our DNA,” says Stausholm. “Everything we do must be from natural materials, packaging must be reusable.”
What’s been fantastic, he says, is to have a product that’s patented. “That means you don’t have to worry about competition. You can build your brand without worrying about others.” One of the biggest challenges, he says, when you start a product-oriented business is to constantly finance the production and the purchase, “because customers will require 30, 60 to 90 days credit. But I managed to build a business based on pre-payments. We still do that a lot, which creates positive cash flow.”
he says, Sprout World is about second life: “The biggest challenge today is not how we produce our products; it’s how we get rid of them. And that’s our mission; to inspire others, both people and companies, to think about how we can reuse products in different ways.” His advice to other leaders who want to make their business more sustainable is, very simply, just to start somewhere. “The problem for many leaders and CEOs is that when you talk about sustainability, it’s very fluffy. It’s very difficult to grasp and work out where to start. My advice is always just to get started. And don’t think you’re going to be at 100% within six months, 12 months, or whatever. Sustainability is a journey. There will always be more you can do, which is why you need to set goals along the way. It’s better to be at 50%, than to be at zero, right?”
GREENER GROWTH With sustainability as its founding core, it’s no surprise Sprout is both B Corp-certified and carbon neutral. “Our product is sustainably harvested; to produce the Sprout pencil, we cut down one tree and replant it immediately. From that one tree, we can make 175,000 pieces of sprout pencils. So, that’s potentially at least 175,000 new trees – that alone makes our business, by definition, carbon neutral –probably even carbon positive.”
99 THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE TODAY IS NOT HOW WE PRODUCE OUR PRODUCTS; IT’S HOW WE GET RID OF THEM – Michael Stausholm Positive growth: Michael Stausholm (oppposite page) founded Sprount World's range of pencils (above) and make-up (left) SUSTAINABILITY
Words: Rikesh Chauhan
THE BEAUTIFUL GAME As the UEFA Women’s Euro 2022 came to a thrilling close, the Lionesses make history as the first England team to become champions of Europe
SPORT F ootball has never just been a man’s game. In the early 1900s, it was the women’s game that started drawing record crowds during and after the First World War, with winger Lily Parr becoming a bona fide superstar. The fact that, among many things, the FA and political bodies weren’t able to monitor or direct revenue resulted in women being banned entirely from the sport from 1921 to 1970. While the FA couldn’t stop women from playing football outright, they could ensure they couldn’t play, officially, in popular stadiums. It was a blow which, cruelly set the game back decades in terms of gender equality. Women weren’t allowed to play professional football at the time of England’s biggest international triumph – winning the 1966 World Cup. That it was the women of 2022 who finally brought football “home” to England after 56 years – and winning the first ever Euro trophy for any England team in the process –makes it all the more satisfying. To think how different the landscape would’ve been today had the women’s game been allowed to progress at the rate it was back in the 1920s. We’ve seen glass ceiling after glass ceiling finally getting shattered – be it American soccer player Megan Rapinoe and the USWNT winning a $24m lawsuit in an equal pay battle in 2022; the introduction of the Ballon d’Or Feminin, first awarded to Ada Hegerberg in 2018 (who quit the Norwegian national team for years due to inequality and treatment, before finally returning last year); or the record 87,000 fans gathered at Wembley Stadium on 31 July to watch the England Lionesses beat eight-time Euro champions Germany to win the 2022 cup. It’s also worth noting that, on the international circuit, some of the most successful nations’ all-time top goal-scorers are women, not men. Birgit Prinz has 128 goals to Miroslav Klose’s 71; Vivianne Miedema has 94 to Robin van Persie’s 50; Marta Vieira da Silva – better known simply by her first name – has scored 115 to Pelé’s official 77. The sheer advancement to a more wellrounded spectacle has been down to some of the most talented female footballers to grace the planet. Thankfully for us, a lot of them currently play for England. You’d argue that Leah Williamson, Lucy Bronze, Millie Bright, Lauren Hemp, Georgia Stanway, Fran Kirby and co could probably walk into any international team’s starting 11. That’s without a mention of the Player of the Tournament and tournament Top Goalscorer, Beth Mead.
Football’s coming home: the England Lionesses celebrate their momentus championship win (Image: courtesy of Hublot, official timekeepers of the UEFA Women’s Euro 2022)
It was inevitable that we’d be drawn against old foes Germany in the final: a team that won the tournament in 1989, 1991 and then six times consecutively between 1995 and 2013. The opposition dominated play for the opening half hour and, coupled with two soft yellow cards to Stanway and White, the tension inside the stadium was palpable. The second half kicked on quite like the first, with the Germans looking even more dangerous. You could imagine the sheer volume, then, as Wembley erupted when Ella Toone coolly chipped the ball over German goalie Merle Frohms and into the back of the net, minute after coming on as a sub, quickly writing herself into footballing folklore. Germany quickly equalised, with Lina Magull rolling away to blow kisses at the far corner of the stadium where German fans cheered. Onto extra-time and thoughts immediately went to 1990, 1996, 2918 and 2020 – depending on your age. But the women held their own until another substitute, Chloe Kelly – who was cruelly sidelined with an ACL injury for over a year – came on the pitch to bring it home with a goal in the 110th minute. It’s been delirium since. Football’s finally home, and it was the women that did it, bringing with them a new lease of life for the beautiful game, and hope for the 2023 Women’s World Cup.
THE LONG WAY HOME While England had a fairly easy draw in the group stage, not to mention the home advantage, it was the manner in which they swept Norway away by a ludicrous 8-0, capped off with a hat-trick by Mead. A further five goals against Austria meant England finished top of their group, unbeaten, with a goal difference of +14. Goalkeeper Mary Earps was heroic on more than one occasion between the posts. In the quarter finals, England faced the Spain team who, though without talisman Alexia Putellas, proved tough opposition. A last-minute double-salvo saw the Lionesses progress, despite having been a goal down in the 54th minute. Tougher still, England made it into the semis to face Sweden — the secondbest ranked team in the world according to FIFA. You wouldn’t have guessed that they were six places ahead of England if you watched the game, mind. The Lionesses obliterated them 4-0, with Mead, Bronze, Russo and Kirby all on the scoresheet. If you happened to be living under a rock and missed Russo’s outrageous back-heel finish, take to YouTube immediately.
Drink responsibly. BORN FROM NATURE, ELEVATED OVER TIME DOM RUINART, THEBLANCQUINTESSENTIALDEBLANCS
RE :VIEW Picture perfect dining at new Ochre restaurant PLUS + • Gear up for Salon Privé Concours d’Elégance • Four Seasons and Harvey Nichols get LFW ready • Banned Books are back at Firsts London Rare Book Fair • Save the Date: your luxury events calendar
T he National Gallery looms large over Trafalgar Square, delighting more than 1.5 million visitors each year as they roam the hallowed halls of art history. But it is an art of a gastronomic variety that has people talking when it comes to the stylish new Ochre Restaurant, located in the Gallery.
There is an immediate sense of relaxation as we settle into our seats – only added to by a glass of chilled rosé recommended by co-owner Sam Miller, who runs the restaurant with his wife Charlotte (whose talented eye is responsible for the lush décor). As lovely as Ochre’s ambience is, it is the food, of course, that is the real draw – every menu is full of indulgent dishes that burst with colour and flavour.
New restaurant Ochre is a work of modern art for for London’s gastronomes
Upon entering the restaurant, diners are immediately struck by the warm and inviting interior. A gold-accented marble bar dominates one side of the restaurant, exuding Art Deco New York cool, while tables are surrounded by waves of sumptuous olive sofas and dining chairs. There is no traditional art on the walls, due to exhibitions in the adjacent rooms, but sculptural mirrors and lights adorn the walls to add that sense of panache and polish.
The art of fine dining
104 FINE DINING | OCHRE
Ingredients are locally sourced and each of the contemporary European menus are seasonal, from lunch and afternoon tea to pre-theatre and full à la carte. Ready for dinner, we are struck by how each ingredient is showcased on the menu – dishes include Isle of Wight tomatoes, West Country lamb rump and Scottish oysters. With so many irresistible options to choose from, we opt to start with sharing plates, in order to tour the menu (and the UK) through fresh burrata with grilled courgette, broad beans, pea shoots and pumpkin seeds; saddleback pork and Westcombe cheddar croquette (oozing with foamy melted cheese – a personal favourite); soused Cornish mackerel tacos and courgette flowers stuffed with feta, black olive and tomato. This delicious medley is followed by a 28-day aged Hereford rib-eye steak, complimented with chimichurri and braised shallot. A melt in the mouth steak, it is perfectly paired with side dishes including dauphinoise potatoes, grilled asparagus and a fresh garden salad. Sweet treats, teas and coffees round up the meal, while Sam describes plans for the restaurant’s cocktail bar, exclusive private dining room (right) and latenight events complete with DJ. With special offers for National Gallery Members as well, this restaurant is truly a work of modern art. ochre.london Words: Michelle Johnson
O ne of the world’s most refined motor shows, Salon Privé returns to Blenheim Palace for the 17th consecutive year. With a historic collection of classic cars gathered on the palace’s South Lawn, as well as a rally’s worth of global, European and UK debuts of modern supercars, guests can walk the lawns, chat to owners, meet manufacturers and even test-drive some of the latest models debuting. Over the course of the event, legendary car marques such as Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Lamborghini, McLaren and Rolls-Royce will be on view, as well as rare and boutique brands like Hispano Suiza, Pagani, Pininfarina, Touring Superleggera and Zenvo. But the main event is surely the Concours d’Elégance presented by Aviva. Welcoming more than 80 cards across carefully curated classes, and combining Edwardian era automobiles with some of the world’s rarest grand tourers, vintage sports racers, and futuristic hypercar concepts. For added glamour, don’t miss Ladies’ Day, presented by Boodles, or the Salon Privé Club Trophy. Those keen to shop unique and top automotive brands will enjoy the Luxury Retail Village – with vendors selling everything from private jets and helicopters to designer fascinators and board games. Once you’ve had your fill of the incredible cars on display, the venue’s range of fine dining options will no doubt be calling. Enjoy champagne afternoon tea or automotive themed lunches at the Spencer Pavilion and Al Fresco dining area or, for that VIP feeling, opt for the exclusive Churchill Pavilion with its private terrace, three-course luncheon, English afternoon tea and full complimentary bar. But the pinnacle of Salon Privé’s dining options is the Glass House, an ornate pavilion overlooking the palace’s lake and water terraces. There, guests will enjoy a three-course tasting menu with fine wines, as well as afternoon tea and complimentary bar.
Blenheim Palace, 31 August – 4 September salonpriveconcours.com
EVENT | SALON PRIVÉ Gear up for Salon Privé at the PalaceBlenheimhistoric
Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery celebrates banned books at Firsts D iscover the power – and politics – of the written word with Firsts, London’s Rare Book Fair, hosted at the Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea (right), this September. Bringing together more than 120 global exhibitors, the fair will present a diverse selection of rare books, maps, manuscripts and letters. This year’s theme, Banned Books, recognises the 100th anniversary of James Joyce’s Ulysses (famously banned for obscenity), with highlights including a signed 1961 copy of DH Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover and a first edition of Charles Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du Mal Pom Harrington, ABA president and chairman of Firsts, says: “It is an ideal opportunity to celebrate this book and others like it, that were suppressed, banned or led to their authors being ostracised for expressing views that were different from what was acceptable when they first appeared.” Saatchi Gallery, 15-18 September firstslondon.com
C elebrate London Fashion Week in style with Fashion Fusion, an exclusive private shopping and fine dining event by Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane and Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge (left). Fashionistas rejoice as the unique shopping experience will see guests enjoy a glass of champagne and twocourse lunch for two at the hotel’s Amaranto Restaurant, before being transported to Harvey Nichols. There, the UK’s best-loved retailer will provide a fashion spree like no other, with its personal shopping team there on hand to present an edit of looks designed for each fashionable guest. You’re sure to be runway ready. Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane, 1 September – 31 fourseasons.comOctober
107 RE:VIEW
STYLE | FASHION WEEK Four Seasons and Harvey Nichols FashionpresentFusion
LONDON
ARTS | FIRSTS LONDON RARE BOOK FAIR
This year’s superyacht extravaganza is set to be more immersive than ever as it launches a new Adventure Area and “seducation” programme aimed at a younger generation of yacht monacoyachtshow.com
FORT INTERNATIONALLAUDERDALEBOAT SHOW
FRIEZE LONDON & MASTERS
galleries.
London’s most exciting art shows return to Regent’s Park, where visitors can discover exciting up-and-coming talent alongside art history’s most important to showcases 280 frieze.com
owners.
figures thanks
The world’s largest in-water boat show will take Florida by storm this October, with more than 1,300 boats on display for the enjoyment of 100,000 attendees. flibs.com
MONACO YACHT SHOW
108 DATESAVE the 18-21 Aug 28 Sep - 1 Oct 12 - 16 Oct While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information. 26-30 Oct 21 Aug 31 Aug - 10 Sep Your luxury events calendar for August to October 2022 HUBLOT POLO GOLD CUP GSTAAD Switzerland’s most glamorous polo event returns with the perfect combination of the dramatic Alpine vistas of Gstaad and sporting action from some of the world’s best polo players. polo-gstaad.ch PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE California’s 71st Pebble Beach Concours celebrates the centennial of Lincoln’s luxury automobiles as well as 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans. pebblebeachconcours.net VENICE FILM FESTIVAL Prepare for a star-studded line up at this most glitzy of film festivals, which features live events across Venice as well as a new immersive preogamme. Celebrity guests including Brad Pitt and Julianne Moore. labiennale.org
from over
50M ALUMINIUM 23 KNOTS SPRING 2024JADE BY
110 SUBSCRIBE NOW TEMPUS ONLINE Get all the essential news and views from the world of luxury delivered direct to your door FOR YOUR DAILY DOSE OF THE BEST IN LUXURY NEWS, FEATURES AND EXCLUSIVE CONTENT Six copies of Tempus magazine delivered to your address every year Exclusive invitations to private events, from shoot days and polo matches to supper clubs and boutique showcases Access to exclusive digital content Regular newsletters featuring the latest news, reviews and exclusive member benefits Visit tempusmagazine.co.uk/subscribe tempusmagazine.co.uk
As a blistering summer eases into Autumn, style expert Rikesh Chauhan guides us through the tricky transitional months W e’ve just come off the back of the hottest summer on record in the United Kingdom, and it’s only slated to get hotter year on year. The benefits of being based in a city that gets all seasons is that, eventually, there’ll be a little respite from the scorching heat. The period between the heat and cold, however, is often a tricky one to navigate when it comes to what to wear. The trick is to have a few staple pieces that will work in the summer on their own, but also with layers come September-October time. One such option is Anderson & Sheppard’s brick Linen Safari Overshirt. Made from a heavy Irish linen, it works perfectly by itself in the summer months, but can be worn as a lightweight jacket over a shirt and tie or t-shirt when summer shifts to autumn. It features four front pockets — which is always handy — buttoned cuffs and side slits. Anderson & Sheppard take pride in the fact that as the linen softens, it gets better with age. It’s an investment and then Lightweightsome. merino wool jumpers are always a good addition to include in your day-to-day ensembles. While these jumpers invariably come in hundreds of colourways, I’d always recommend going for something in a classic shade — charcoal, navy, beige — as it simply goes with more things. It shouldn’t be the standout element of your outfit, but rather accentuate everything else. Finally, Cast & Lane’s weekender trousers are my new obsession. I saw them worn by a friend in Florence during Pitti Uomo, and I loved the ’90s Ralph Lauren-esque vibe it has. The high-rise, drape and fuller leg is wonderful, and the cotton drill makes it a great choice for the searing heat of Tuscany in June, as well as London in October. Available in a classic ivory or navy, whichever one you go for will inevitably be a staple for years to come.
112 MILESHANNAH©PORTRAIT: COLUMN
Brick Linen Safari Overshirt by Anderson & Sheppard The heavy linen overshirt is a musthave for the transitional months, and comes in a variety of colours to suit your preference. anderson-sheppard.co.uk
Oatmeal Radstone Merino Wool Jumper by Alan Paine Not all crew neck jumpers were created equal. This classic style, by Alan Paine, is made from the finest Italian merino wool. alanpaine.co.uk
W hatever the weather
Ivory Weekender Trousers by Cast & Lane For a stylish high-rise waist, welltailored fuller leg and beautiful drape, look no further than these elegant casual trousers. castandlane.com
113 GREAT BRITISH LUXURY CLOTHING | PRIVATEWHITEVC.COM