86 ISSUE
Louis Vuitton watch ambassador
SPRING STYLE REVIVAL | MUTANT SUPERCARS | BRANDS OF TOMORROW
Bradley Cooper talks Maestro as the brand prepares to change the face of fashion horology
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Style & Substance
When it comes to the spring season here at Tempus, the worlds of fashion and watches are always high on our priority list. This is the time of year when London’s fashion scene come to life, with designers’ spring/summer collections leaping off the runway and onto the streets, and trend predictions soaring or falling by the wayside. In perfect complement, we are also treated to the latest mechanical marvels and horological novelties redefining the trends of the slower paced but no less dynamic world of watches, with annual events such as Watches & Wonders a firm fixture in our calendars.
So, it was with great excitement that we were given an exclusive sneak peek at the new Ecole Métiers d’Art collection from Louis Vuitton Watches. These exceptional novelties, masterminded by watchmaker Michel Navas under the direction of Jean Arnault, mark the most daring statement yet in the brand’s new strategy to transform how Louis Vuitton does watches.
Despite being a leader in the field of fashion timepieces — stylish, high quality and beautifully crafted, created as a sub-section of designer brands — Louis Vuitton has been quietly making waves from its Meyrin-based La Fabrique du Temps manufactory, with a new ambition to elevate its
watches to industry-leading status. What began with the redesign of the classic Tambour in 2022 has evolved into an audacious showcase of truly artisanal craftsmanship.
We delve into the esteemed brand’s fascinating transformation on page 36 before sitting down with its watch ambassador, Bradley Cooper, about his passion project Maestro (42).
Bradley is not the only superstar to be making music this spring season: entrepreneurial singer Beyoncé, riding high on the release of her country album Cowboy Carter, has also found time to launch a stylish new business (14) while afrobeats star Davido chats to Tempus about his global reach (78). Elsewhere, stylist to the stars Sara Parker Bowles shares the power of personal style — and how to curate a timeless capsule wardrobe — on page 48, and we head to Aynho Park to explore the majestic new interior design gallery by RH England (16).
We also find out why the UK’s restaurants are at the forefront of good taste when it comes to seasonal fine dining (66), get to grips with the trailblazing “mutant” supercars heading off road (22) and take a dip in the yachting world for the best of the season’s new launches (62).
Enjoy the issue.
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Michelle Johnson Editor-in-chief Tempus Share your thoughts by contacting us via email at info@tempusmagazine.co.uk, or visit tempusmagazine.co.uk for your daily update from the world of luxury lifestyle
© 2024 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion. THESE EXCEPTIONAL NOVELTIES MARK THE MOST DARING STATEMENT YET IN LOUIS VUITTON’S STRATEGY TO TRANSFORM HOW THE BRAND DOES WATCHES Tempus Magazine is published by Vantage Media Limited. www.vantagemedia.uk
Rikesh Chauhan
Blazers are back! Tempus style columnist and menswear expert Rikesh sorts the men from the boys when it comes to the perfect spring jacket for any occasion (112)
Neil Davey
Food expert, journalist and author Neil puts the spotlight on the UK’s hero ingredients — and the remarkable fine dining establishments championing seasonal menus (66)
Lauren Jarvis
Head to the top of the world with travel expert
Lauren Jarvis, and discover why the onceperilous Northwest Passage is now a cultural and conservational touchstone (58)
Sara Parker Bowles
Celebrity stylist, fashion editor and founder of Wardrobe Revival, Sara gets to work on our wardrobes to curate the perfect capsule collection to suit any style (48)
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COVER IMAGE
Louis Vuitton watch ambassador
Bradley Cooper (©Matt Doyle/ Contour by Getty Images, photographed at the NBR Awards gala)
Article on page: 36
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Editorial team
86 CONTENTS ISSUE 86 10 The Luxe List Our essential guide to this season’s finest gifts and most exciting new launches 14 Curl power Cowboy Carter star Beyoncé launches a stylish new business venture with Cécred 16 Restoring nobility Step into the future of interior design at RH England, the Gallery at Aynho Park 22 Trailblazers What’s fuelling the “mutant” rally-spec supercar craze? 30 Sacred sanctuaries Bali’s beachside resorts and rainforest reserves are redefining the art of relaxation 36 Exclusive: Master of wonders As Louis Vuitton launches its new Métiers d’Arts collection, we discover the changing face of fashion watches 42 Maestro & muse Louis Vuitton watches ambassador Bradley Cooper talks his award-nominated biopic of Leonard Bernstein 48 Exclusive: The dress code Celebrity stylist and Wardrobe Revival founder Sara Parker Bowles curates the perfect capsule wardrobe 52 Making a splash Discover this season’s most exciting new yacht launches 58 Top of the world How the perilous Northwest Passage became a haven of community and conservation 62 Tomorrow’s world Meet Walpole’s Brands of Tomorrow to discover the next houshold names to know now 66 Growing local We explore how seasonal produce has become synonymous with good taste in these fine dining establishments 70 Gothic romance How Edinburgh’s finest hotels have turned the Scottish capital into the City of Love 74 Golden hour As whisky remains a sure investment, we look at the most exciting fine and rare launches 78 Rhyme & rhythm Grammy-nominated afrobeats star Davido on taking his pioneering sound to the world stage 82 Seize the day Are day raves and festivals transforming clubland? We explore the surprising benefits to daytime clubbing 86 Maximum impact Explore untouched destinations with sustainability in mind with these high-tech eco-camps 92 Spa horizons As the longevity trend infuses the world of wellness, we check out the UK spas offering far more than a massage 96 What dreams may come Sleep expert Malminder Gill shares the benefits of a great night’s sleep 100 Continental shift We find out why the African continent is preparing for a boom inAI, agriculture, fintech and green energy 103 RE:VIEW Photographer Andy Gotts reveals the stories behind his new exhibit, plus our pick of the season’s best events 108 Save the date The finest events of the season 112 Jacket required Blazers are back, with our style columnist Rikesh Chauhan’s top picks for spring
36 Master of wonders
©Louis Vuitton/Mario Sorrenti
The LUXE LIST
Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gift
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Baker Brothers Diamonds
Indulge in the epitome of luxury at Baker Brothers, where impeccable craftsmanship transcends beyond stunning jewellery. From exquisite, hand selected diamonds to prestigious Swiss watches and opulent homeware, their carefully curated collections redefine sophistication. Baker Brothers’ rich heritage spans more than 185 years of blending tradition with innovation, offering discerning clients a curated selection of breathtaking diamonds and precious gemstones. Whether you’re seeking a statement timepiece, jewellery that will last a lifetime or exquisite homeware accents, immerse yourself in a world of refinement and grace where luxury knows no bounds. Find out more on page 46
bakerbrothersdiamonds.com
Girard-Perregaux
Laureato 38mm Copper
Diamond Bezel
Building on the success of its 2022 Laureato 38mm Copper, Girard-Perregaux’s latest novelty (left) features an elegant diamond-set bezel. The mid-sized watch is presented with a vibrant copper-hued dial, adorned with the brand’s Clous de Paris motif, whose colour ranges from ochre to burnt oak depending on the light, and encircled by 56 stunning diamonds. Inspired by the watch’s original 1975 design, baton shaped indexes, hour and minute hands are luminescent, while a date aperture is aligned with the crown. A timeless novelty.
girard-perregaux.com
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Lürssen Yachts
The embodiment of luxury at sea, Lürssen’s heritage spans over four generations, since it was founded in 1875. The Germanbased shipyard leads in manufacturing large-scale masterpieces (such as AHPO, left) , from sleek contemporary designs to timeless classics. Each yacht, ranging from 60m to over 180m, is a bespoke reflection of its owner’s vision. Collaborating with world-renowned designers, Lürssen ensures every detail exudes excellence. The commitment to personalised craftsmanship coupled with cuttingedge technology ensures an unmatched maritime experience, allowing yacht owners to venture where luxury knows no bounds and every journey is an adventure. Discover the yacht launches making a splash this season on page 52
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Bollinger La Grande Année
Rosé 2015
Bollinger’s new grand cuvées are setting a new standard this season. La Grande Anneé Rosé 2015 (right) is an exceptional rosé created from a unique blend of vintage champagne and red wine from La Côte aux Enfants from the village of Aÿ. Vinified exclusively in old oak barrels to ensure exceptional ageing potential for those able to resist the refined taste in the sunny weather, this rosé is the ideal accompaniment for afternoon tea, dessert or a picnic. The rosé complements the maison’s La Grande Année 2015 cuvee, a blend of 11 crus – 60% pinot noir from Verzenay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and 40% Chardonnay from Chouilly and Avize. We’ll drink to that. »
champagne-bollinger.com
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Steppes Travel
Voted a Conde Nast Top Five Specialist Tour Operator 2023, Steppes Travel has a global reputation for creating remarkable holidays and beautiful adventures. From Galapagos Island cruises to tours of Kenya and Rwanda, Steppes’ knowledge, expertise and passion — honed over 30 years of operation — combine to create extraordinary travel experiences anywhere in the world. What’s more, travel experiences can be fully curated to ignite your passions and turn new and long held dreams into reality — taking you beyond the brochures and into travel built on real connection. Find out how to create your own unique experience on page 90
steppestravel.com
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Tateossian Puzzle Gear
The captivating Puzzle Gear series (left) by Tateossian has introduce a necklace that is the perfect blend of quirky and contemporary chic style, featuring two complementary yet distinct designs. Intricate craftsmanship works in tandem with symbolism, as the necklace showcases a half-gear pendant in either yellow gold-plated sterling silver, adorned with a diamond pattern texture, or polished rhodium-plated sterling silver, centred with a 2mm faceted black spinel. On their own they are beautifully suspended on either a yellow-gold or oxidised sterling silver box chain. But this series is also available as a set on a 23in oxidised box chain – designed to interlock perfectly, embodying unity and connection with a partner or friend. The missing link in your jewellery collection.
tateossian.com
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Prelude by Oriole
Oriole, one of London’s most exciting cocktail and music bars, is set to return this summer, but there’s good news for those of us who can’t wait for its return.
Pop-up restaurant Prelude by Oriole (left) is opening for three months at The Yards, Covent Garden, offering guests a brand-new list of cocktails, accompanied by an à la carte menu created by Argentine head chef Gustavo Giallionardo. The menu has dishes made from Latin American ingredients, fused with cooking styles from all over the world: Argentinian, Italian and Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) — pop by for a taster before Oriole’s grand reopening later this year.
oriolebar.com
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Dewkes Snacks for Dogs
What started as a local Welsh brand has become the must-have snack for beloved pooches everywhere, thanks to its profound commitment to dog health and nutrition. Offering everything from beefy sticks to fishy bites, chicken jerky and pork scratching, Dewkes Snacks for Dogs (right) provide 100% grain-free, hypoallergenic treats designed for long-lasting enjoyment. What’s more, all Dewkes products come sustainably packaged right up to their eco-friendly waste bags. Can’t choose? Dewkes’s Mixed Snacks box comes with 25 individually wrapped treats for any canine connoisseur. The paw-fect treat for man’s best friend.
dewkes.co.uk
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Pullman Editions Art Deco prints
Bring the style of the Italian Riviera into your home with Pullman Editions’ striking original limited-edition posters (left). The art deco posters feature glamorous locations such as Monaco and St-Tropez, winter sports, as well as the world’s greatest historic automobiles.
Evoking memories of holidays and special occasions, Pullmans Editions original prints provide a vibrant and creative way to decorate your space. With more than 100 limited-edition designs to choose from online, with prices starting at £420, you’ll be instantly transported.
pullmaneditions.com
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Olympic Games Paris 2024 Official Hospitality
For the first time in 100 years, Paris will host the Olympic Games this summer. And, for the first time, official hospitality and accommodation packages are available courtesy of On Location. Whether it’s the Athletics 100m Final, Tennis Singles, Equestrian or Swimming events, secure your place at the most sought-after Olympic Games Paris 2024 sporting events and create memories of a lifetime with unparalleled access and world-class service. Hospitality packages combine some of the best seats and private boxes in the house, with a range of hotels, fine dining and entertainment designed to give you an unforgettable Olympic Games hospitality experience. Find out more on page 28.
CorporateHospitality.Paris2024.org
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CURL POWER
Cowboy Carter superstar Beyoncé launches into the world of haircare with inclusive brand Cécred
Words: Shivani Dubey
Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Beyoncé Knowles-Carter (right) is no stranger to releasing record-breaking albums and fronting successful business ventures. Now, she is adding another to her repertoire with the launch of new science-led, cruelty-free haircare line, Cécred.
Featuring a cutting-edge technology focused on repairing and strengthening hair, the musician says that Cécred — pronounced ‘sacred’ — is inspired by “hair rituals from around the world” and emphasises product performance, using a variety of butters, oils, honey and fermented rice water all designed to nourish all hair textures.
“As a black founder, it was important for me to concentrate on where I saw the greatest need for healthy haircare and to place scientific innovation and product performance above all else,” said Beyoncé. “We started by prioritising the needs of textured hair like mine, along with other types and textures that need more moisture and strength.”
The Cécred collection (below) includes a clarifying shampoo and scalp scrub, moisturising deep conditioner, reconstructing treatment mask, nourishing hair oil and more, all infused with a signature Temple Oud fragrance. Ingredients also include a patentpending bioactive keratin ferment made with a wool protein, designed to help hair and scalp health.
“My entire life and career, I’ve worn my hair in so many different ways: natural, flat-ironed, braids, coloured, weaves, wigs... I want everyone to have the freedom to express their hair in ways that make them feel good.”
Beyoncé says the brand was inspired by her mother Tina Knowles, who ran a Houston-based hair salon during the singer’s childhood and now serves as vice chairwoman of Cécred.
“In my own experience serving clients, I loved witnessing the joy they felt watching their hair grow healthier, shinier, and more vibrant,” Tina said. “I have personally witnessed how these products have
stopped breakage in its tracks. I’ve seen the transformations from using these products on all different hair types and textures and the results have been amazing.”
The ambitious haircare line is not the entrepreneurial singer’s first foray into the fashion and beauty industry. Beyoncé, who released new hit genre-defying countryinspired album Act II: Cowboy Carter on 29 March, previously launched fashion brand House of Deréon with Tina in 2006; Ivy Park athleisure — named for Blue Ivy, her daughter with husband Jay-Z — in 2016; and her latest fragrance, Cé Noir, was released in 2023.
Now Beyoncé says she hopes to be an “inclusive force of excellence in the haircare industry”, adding that Cécred will partner with her philanthropic foundation BeyGood to offer an annual grant of $500,000 (£390,000) to fund cosmetology school scholarships and salon business grants.
cecred.com
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RESTORING NOBILITY
Following the opening of RH England, The Gallery at Aynho Park, Restoration Hardware CEO Gary Friedman has ambitious plans for the American furniture brand’s international expansion
Words: Lauren O’Neill
Dating back to the 12th century, Aynhoe Park has historically been inhabited by England’s noble families, coveted for its unique elevated position, offering not only incredible views across the landscape but also an excellent vantage point from which to see incoming visitors — whether friend or foe. These days if you look out, however, you’re more likely to spot a swathe of well-heeled, luxury interiors enthusiasts making their way to the stately home, which was recently acquired by American homeware brand RH, formerly Restoration Hardware.
After an exhaustive restoration, redesign — and rename, dropping the final ‘e’ to become Aynho Park — the brand has reopened the historic venue as RH England, The Gallery at Aynho Park, a bold statement of a move that triumphantly marks its first outpost outside the US.
With fans including the likes of Zoe Saldana, Sydney Sweeney, Matthew McConaughey and Kendall Jenner, the brand is something of a powerhouse in the States, where it was founded in 1979, and RH chairman and CEO Gary Friedman is confident it can emulate this success internationally. It is clear when you see the exquisite transformation of Aynho Park’s interiors that RH has made an extremely significant investment into the stately home’s
longevity and, with a second UK space soon coming to London’s Mayfair, along with several other galleries currently under construction in cities such as Madrid, Paris, and Milan, the brand is accelerating its expansion into Europe.
“We needed to do something for our first international gallery that would say who we are and what we’re capable of,” Gary tells Tempus. “Most people would say we’re nuts opening our first European store an hour outside of the capital city, but we knew Aynho Park was right the moment we saw its magnificent architecture and a country park with roaming deer.”
Originally built in 1615 for the Cartwright family by revered architect Sir John Soane, Grade I listed Aynho Park overlooks the Cherwell valley dividing Northamptonshire from Oxfordshire. It remained in the Cartwright family until the mid20th century and, in recent years, the building was the home of hedonistic British businessman James Perkins and his family, from whom RH bought the property.
So, what inspired the decision to debut RH in the UK and breathe new life into this stately home? Gary explains: “Grade I listed buildings represent only 2.5% of all listed buildings in the UK. So, RH England is built on a foundation of rarity and revered for being something remarkable in the history of architectural spaces
Clockwise from top left: CEO Gary Friedman; RH ‘Repose’ bedroom; the Architecture and Design Library and Sir John Soane exhibition. Previous: Exterior of RH England, The Gallery at Historic Aynho Park
and places. Aynho Park has a design history that we are inspired by and presented a beautiful canvas for us to write its next chapter and ours.”
It makes sense. What better way to showcase the RH lifestyle and sell its products than by creating spaces steeped in grand heritage that allow you to experience RH first hand? The concept of an immersive interior showroom fused with hospitality spaces is not a completely new one — rarely do visitors of ready-to-assemble furniture store Ikea not indulge in its cafe’s Swedish meatballs or Daim cheesecake — but RH England’s seamless integration of gallery spaces and showroom setups with food and beverage outlets make you wonder why this isn’t a more common way to shop.
In recent years, the brand has diversified beyond selling furniture and homewares — its first hotel concept, RH Guesthouse, opened in New York in 2022 — integrating experiential spaces that use the RH aesthetic as the backdrop. RH England is home to three primary restaurants, The Orangery, The Loggia (its outdoor venue featuring wood-fired pizzas), and the new Conservatory, an American bistro, opening later this year. On top of this, shoppers can enjoy an earl grey in the Tea Salon, a green juice at the Juicery (featuring the most eye-pleasing arrangement of fruits and vegetables), or something a little stronger at its Wine Lounge. »
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SYMMETRY AND STYLE
Unlike most furniture stores, the beauty of RH England is that you can visit simply for a great day out with no prior intent to redesign your home (that said, if you choose to try out the lounge areas, you may end up leaving with an order placed for a Cloud Chair whether you were in the market for one or not). On arrival, the imposing and satisfyingly symmetrical exterior by Soane is something to behold. Symmetry and balance is a theme that runs throughout. Architecture enthusiasts will love the Architecture and Design Library, which honours Soane’s legacy and has on display a series of incredibly rare and old books depicting the Vitruvian principles — symmetry, balance and proportion — among those of other great minds like Da Vinci and Alberti, upon which classical architecture is based.
Looking straight through the open doors of each room, from the library right through to The Orangery restaurant at the other end of the building, you can see how they are perfectly aligned to allow the rooms to act as separate rooms when closed, or as one bigger space, perfect for entertaining and perhaps an early example of the open-plan living that is popular today. In the room adjacent you will find a dedicated Soane exhibition, created in partnership with Sir John Soane’s Museum in
London, which highlights his life and works with reproductions of his original drawings alongside architectural models and other artefacts.
One fascinating thing about this room, shown to me by RH’s wonderful concierge, who has an encyclopaedic knowledge of both the building and the brand, is its domed roof, which is not just an interesting design detail. Lili Cartwright, a Bavarian aristocrat who came to England in 1835 as the new wife of Aynho Park heir Thomas Cartwright, had nicknamed this particular room ‘The Whispering Room’. The room would have been where staff gathered to prepare for service, and where Lili imagined they would gossip about the family and gentry in attendance of dinners or parties. Visitors should refrain from having private conversations in this room, however, unless you are an expert in physics and know exactly where to stand. Because of the shape of the roof and how it refracts sound, if you are to stand at opposite ends, your companion need only whisper and it will sound as though they are speaking directly in your ear.
Retaining many of its original features, and complemented also by rare art and antiques, the RH collection plays out perfectly at Anyho Park across over 60 rooms, each featuring a QR code allowing visitors to easily shop the room. Known for its luxurious neutrals and contemporary
design, RH England shows how at home modern living can be in ornate, historic buildings and, as people invest more in experiences, RH cleverly illustrates the important role that aesthetics play in curating these experiences.
“These new Galleries and the integrated hospitality experience position our brand for the RH of the future,” says Gary. “Our ecosystem of products, places, services and spaces inspires customers to dream, design, dine, travel and live in a world thoughtfully curated by RH, creating an emotional connection unlike any other brand in the world.”
rh.com
RH ENGLAND SHOWS
HOW AT HOME MODERN LIVING CAN BE IN ORNATE, HISTORIC BUILDINGS
Statement décor: A marble unicorn guards the foyer (below) and (main) James Perkins’ ‘Stairway To
Heaven’
TRAILBLAZERS
Previously, rally-spec supercars were a niche subset of races like the Paris-Dakar rally but manufacturers like Porsche and Lamborghini have made mutant ‘Mad Max’ versions of their best-selling supercars available for the masses. We discover what’s fuelling the mutant supercar craze
Words: Rory FH Smith
TRAILBLAZERS
It’s exactly 40 years ago that Porsche caused a monumental stir in motorsport by winning the grueling 1984 Paris-Dakar rally with its seemingly ill-suited 911 sportscar. In reality, the car was far from standard. Called the Porsche 953, it was a mutant mix of classic Porsche 911 styling and a standard 3.2-litre engine, fused to a new all-wheel-drive system and high-riding, super absorbent suspension to soak up the Sahara’s lumps and bumps. The freak creation proved to be a recipe for success, with the car winning the race outright in the hands of Dominique Lemoyne and René Metge.
“Engaging a 911 against four-wheel drive, classic off-road vehicles in the Ténéré desert and the [high plateau of] Assekrem in Algeria looked absolutely crazy to people,” says Jacky Ickx, legendary racer and fellow Porsche pilot during the 1984 Dakar race, as he recalls the race. “Nobody would have bet a penny on it."
Despite the success of a high-riding, rally-spec sportscar, it remained an automotive niche. For more than three decades after the 1984 Dakar race, cars created in the shadow of the legendary 953 were confined to specialist motorsport events and one-off bespoke projects but now rally spec sportscars have started to hit the mainstream. »
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
“’Fun’ is a word that is fast disappearing from today’s vehicles,” says Simon Saunders, founder of the British-based Ariel Motor Company, who started manufacturing the go-anywhere Nomad sportscar back in 2015. “In a world where autonomy is fast increasing in standard production cars, part of the success of the Nomad is that you do have to actually drive it.”
Equipped with either a 335bhp, 2.0-litre supercharged Honda K20 Z3 engine, four wheels and a roll cage, the £77,400 Nomad R is the leanest and purest example of an off-roadready sportscar on the market.
“There are elements of beach buggies, rally cars and even the RC car you had as a child in the Nomad — but in an ultra-reliable package that is at home and usable on the road, as well as off it,” adds Simon.
Backing up the British-made effort is Morgan’s eccentric CX-T (£200,000), which stormed into the market in 2022. Complete with Morgan’s classic pre-war aesthetic, the ‘T’ in the CX-T name refers to Morgan’s history of trailing — competitive, all-terrain endurance events — which it was competing in as early as 1911.
While Ariel was one of the first to commercialise the idea of a go-anywhere sportscar, the biggest shift in the market arrived when Porsche announced it would be dusting off its Dakar-winning credentials to make a road-going 911 that was capable of going places its sportscar peers could only dream of.
Enter the not-so-inventively named Porsche 911 Dakar, which first hit the road in 2023, priced from £173,000. While it was created to channel the original 953’s rally-winning pedigree, the Dakar is based on the latest Porsche 911, and so comes equipped with most of the mod-cons, save for the rear seats, which are subbed out for a full roll cage.
For those in the market with a little more flair and even less practicality, Lamborghini brought the brilliantly bonkers, £230,000 Sterrato to the road in 2023, based on its popular Huracan. As the final pure-combustion car to come from the Italian supercar maker, the Sterrato is a gloriously over-the-top tribute to an epic era of petrol-powered Lamborghinis.
Complete with robust cladding around the wider wheel arches, front fog lamps and a roof-mounted air scoop, the Sterrato sets itself apart from almost everything else on the road, save from its closest rival, Porsche’s Dakar.
‘FUN’ IS A WORD THAT IS FAST DISAPPEARING FROM TODAY’S VEHICLES
— Simon Saunders, Ariel Motor Company
Clockwise from main: Lamborghini Huracán Sterrato; Porsche 911 Dakar (and previous); Ariel Nomad R
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EPIC ENDURANCE
While Lamborghini and Porsche are the biggest names to bring mutant versions of their most popular sportscars to market, Danish firm Kalmar Automotive has been quietly creating modified Porsches more aligned to the authentic rally experience. From the scalding sands of the Sahara Desert to the frozen tundra of the Arctic Circle, Jan Kalmar and his team take classic Porsche 911s and equip them with everything needed to take on endurance rallies all around the world.
His latest car, the RS-6 (left), is based on the late-1990s Porsche 911 (996), but sits 80mm higher than the standard car, with substantial suspension upgrades, a roof rack for all your ‘survival equipment’, an LED lightbar and bucket seats and a roll cage inside. Kalmar’s no-fuss, highly functional creations live their lives on, but mostly off-road, taking on epic endurance events all around the world. And, with conversions for the RS-6 starting just below £40,000, Kalmar’s off-road sportcars are significantly more accessible than the rarified offerings from Lamborghini and Porsche that both weigh in around the £200,000 mark.
While Porsche’s eccentric entry into the Dakar rally in the late 1980s took time to reach the road, the current crop of absurdly capable, mutant motors signals the trend for trailblazing sportscars has arrived with force. Despite most owners keeping them clean on the city streets, it’s reassuring to know that even a two-seat sportscar can cope with whatever’s thrown at it — from wheel-bending potholes to frozen lakes and forest trails.
While the idea of an SUV with supercar performance is now a well-established norm, the rise of smaller, lighter and more agile off-roaders looks set to disrupt it. For those mulling over their next or first performance car purchase, the idea of a car that blends the best of both worlds, without sacrificing its sleek looks, is increasingly hard to ignore.
With car giants Porsche and Lamborghini, alongside specialists like Morgan, Ariel and Kalmar already committed, it’s only a matter of time before more mutant versions of our favourite two-seater sportscars take to the road less travelled.
Experience the Olympic Games Paris 2024 in style with On Location
As the first of its kind hospitality experience in the competition’s history, On Location is the official hospitality provider of this year’s Olympic Games in Paris
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THE ON LOCATION TRAVEL PACKAGES ARE DESIGNED TO HELP MAKE PLANNING YOUR TRIP AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE
The Olympic Games are returning to Paris for the first time in 100 years on 26 July. With the Games comes a promise to be both diverse and sustainable — and this is true both in the events themselves and in On Location’s first-of-its-kind hospitality experience. Whether you’re looking to network with clients, relax with friends and family or simply watch a sports session in style, On Location’s hospitality packages can provide unparalleled access and luxury for a once in a lifetime event with unique Parisian experiences.
There are multiple different hospitality packages to choose from, all including guaranteed session tickets to sports including tennis, swimming, football and more. For those looking to get closer to the action, there are on-site hospitality packages, with prime seating and access to in-venue lounges. Guests wanting to have a relaxed time in the heart of Paris before heading over to their desired sporting session can enjoy off-venue packages that will enable them to do so with utmost comfort.
To help make the best decision based on your interests while attending the Olympic Games, we have compiled a detailed list of all the hospitality packages On Location has to offer.
IN-VENUE HOSPITALITY
This package has three tiers: bronze, silver and gold, with each aiming to offer varying levels of access to the games, bringing you as close to the action as possible. Bronze tier guests can enjoy the shared lounge with in-lounge entertainment, informal street food options and select wine, beer and soft drinks.
Silver tier guests will have access to premium services in the shared lounge before and during the event, with an upscale buffet, champagne on arrival and options across select wine and beer — as well as a special gift. Meanwhile, gold members will have premium services before, throughout and after the event in the elite lounge.
Gold members will also have access to
an international gourmet menu, premium champagne, wine and beer and a commemorative gift. All tiers will have guaranteed access to sessions of the guests’ choice.
TRAVEL PACKAGES
The On Location travel packages are designed to help make planning your trip as smooth as possible. With different three-, four- and five-star packages to suit your needs, On Location creates a trip of a lifetime complete with planning so you can have the most luxurious experience at the Olympic Games.
From guaranteed session tickets to accommodation in central Paris and curated tours, these travel packages are guaranteed to provide you with the best possible experience even outside of the Olympic Games. Other features include exclusive invitations to Salon 24 private access lounge, public or private transport to sporting sessions, invitation to a special VIP event, dedicated staff to meet every need, special gifts and more.
OPENING CEREMONY
For the first time in Olympic Games history, the opening ceremony will take place on the river Seine in the heart of the city, with the Eiffel Tower as the backdrop.
On Location will be offering once in a lifetime silver and gold hospitality experiences to mark this historic event. The Riverside Package, which comes in silver and gold, offers reserved seating with prime views of the ceremony, hospitality spaces within easy walking distance, live entertainment, a dedicated way-finding team for guidance, cocktail or buffet style dinner with champagne and drinks and a commemorative gift.
Gold members will also have VIP access to grandstand locations and special guest appearances.
The Quayside Package will offer guests views of the opening ceremony and the Olympic athletes’ parade
from a docked boat along with buffet style dinner, special guest appearances, a commemorative gift and more. While the Bridge 360 Package will provide the same services with grandstand and free seating on the bridge instead of the boat.
ON THE FINISH LINE
On Location’s immersive ‘On the Finish Line’ packages will offer guests privileged access to premium hospitality experiences that brings guests closer to the action with rare finish line views of some of the most defining moments of Paris 2024.
This offering is highly limited and is available in silver and gold service levels to suit guests’ unique needs.
PRIVATE BOXES
In these private boxes, the guests will be able to set the tone of what they’d like to experience. Guests can hold meetings with top clients or celebrate a special occasion – all from the comfort of a dedicated hospitality space within the Olympic Games venues.
This is the most elevated hospitality experience offered by On Location, and features services like exclusive use of the box before, during or after sporting sessions, dedicated premium seats close to your private box, fine dining with premium champagne, spirits, wine and beer, dedicated hostess and service team at your disposal, access to on-site guest concierge and a commemorative Olympic Games souvenir for each guest.
The offerings for Paris 2024 include Stade de France for athletics and the closing ceremony, Bercy Arena for basketball and artistic gymnastics, La Défense Arena for swimming and Roland Garros Stadium for tennis.
Book your Olympic experience by contacting On Location via phone on 0208 157 6511, by email at jreed@onlocationexp.com or online at corporatehospitality.paris2024.org
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PARTNER FEATURE
Sacred sanctuaries
Forget the social media tourist traps and backpacker retreats, Bali’s beachside resorts and rainforest reserves are redefining the art of relaxation
Words: Michelle Johnson
Bali has long held a reputation as both backpacker’s paradise and spiritual destination, thanks to its unique mix of traveller-friendly bar culture and myriad historic temples and sacred trails to explore. But, as the Indonesian island paradise has become increasingly popular as a must-visit destination, its renown as a luxury destination seems to have been swept away with the tide. Until now.
It’s no surprise that Bali is the region’s most popular holiday destination. Rich with cultural treasures and warm hospitality, Balinese culture is evident in everything from its architecture to the local cuisine. The island’s natural splendour encompasses long stretches of sandy beaches and ocean waves perfect for surfing while, inland, thick verdant jungle shelters diverse wildlife as well as dramatic waterfalls and smouldering volcanoes.
But it’s not just Bali’s biodiversity that presents such fascinating contrasts; with some of the best hotels in the world gracing the island’s shores — and mountaintops — there’s an array of retreats to choose from to meet your every desire. Whether you’re ready to be pampered to perfection or get away from it all, Bali’s extraordinary five-star escapes will leave you feeling truly a world away. »
OCEAN GARDEN
Nestled on the endless stretch of Nusa Dua beach’s golden sands, St Regis Bali Resort is the epitome of modern luxury even as it immerses us in Indonesian culture. Arriving in the afternoon, I am greeted by a musician playing a rindik, a kind of xylophone, as we take in the elegant lobby, which is inspired by traditional Balinese architecture with contemporary details. That theme continues as I take a winding route (via golf buggy) through the nine-hectare resort to my beachside villa — one of 124 suites and villas (including two grand residences) in the complex.
At the heart of the resort is a glorious 3,668sqm saltwater lagoon — the perfect spot for a relaxing swim when the seas offer more sport than serenity.
Each villa connects either to the lagoon or to Nusa Dua beach. Mine, a spacious Strand Villa, is jawdroppingly gorgeous at every turn: sumptuous and elegant, it includes a well-equipped living/ dining room furnished with bespoke couches and Balinese artworks, king-sized bedroom, marble bathroom with an oversized soaking tub and a garden complete with sun terrace and private pool. Opening the back gate finds me standing on golden sand, with my private sun loungers and umbrella waiting for me.
With time to spare before dinner, my personal butler recommends a trip to the Iridium Spa,
where I indulge in a jetlag-busting massage after the 17-hour flight. Here, therapists offer a range of treatments — including an excellent menu of facials — in the peaceful, temple-inspired surrounds. Elsewhere in the resort, a fitness centre and multiple pools are available to while away the hours.
My next stop is the St Regis Bar for sundown cocktails before dinner. The bar’s open-air seating offers the perfect vantage point to enjoy the dramatic fire dance, performed each evening at sundown by the Grand Staircase. Dinner choices range from global fusion to traditional Indonesian fare: Boneka provides international favourites as well as offering a glorious spread for breakfast; Gourmand Deli is ideal for relaxed yet refined dining; and the swim-up Vista Bar serves relaxed beachside nibbles. The stars of the show, however, are Kayuputi — where executive chef Agung Gede’s phenomenal pan-Asian inspired haute cuisine has seen its weekend brunch become stuff of local legend — and Dulang, an Indonesian dining experience like no other. Set in an intricate wooden gazebo reminiscent of centuries past, authentic Indonesian cuisine and drinks are served in a truly magical atmosphere, based on ceremonial dining enjoyed by ancient Balinese royalty.
Mornings here begin calmly, with a spot of beachside yoga before breakfast at Boneka.
Guided by our instructor with the only other sound the nearby waves lapping gently against the shore, this is a truly invigorating yet gentle way to wake the senses. For braver guests, paddleboard yoga is a more advanced yet equally soothing morning ritual — the meditative calm only broken by an innate lack of balance that inevitably sends me crashing into the pool time and again.
Feeling refreshed, I head out of the resort to see some of the sites that make Bali so magical to visitors. A trip to Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park — and its 122m statue completed in 2018 by local sculptor Nyoman Nuarta depicting the Hindu god Wisnu and the mythical eagle Garuda — shows a glimpse of the island’s modernity, while its cultural and spiritual heritage can be found in the stunning clifftop Uluwatu Temple. The Hindu sea temple is one of the Sad Kahyangan, the six holiest places in Bali, which provide spiritual balance to the island and are saturated in fascinating folklore. By day, visitors can wander the ancient temple and enjoy views of the ocean — though beware the resident macaque monkeys, which are known to steal guests’ belongings — before enjoying a Kecak dance performance — a chant-based dance featuring up to 150 performers — based on the Ramayana, which is performed each day at sunset. »
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Flow state: St Regis Bali Resort (above); Iridium Spa (far right); The Strand Villa (right)
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SPIRIT AND SERENITY
My stay at St Regis over, I head inland towards the island’s cultural heartland of Ubud, wondering how anything could top the extraordinary levels of service and gastronomy that I experienced in Nusa Dua. I enter Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, through an unassuming entryway, only to be struck by the majestic view over this aweinspiring resort. From the open-air reception area, I look down into the glorious natural valley that makes up Mandapa, which translates to ‘temple’ in Indonesian. This is a hideaway like no other — the Ayung river flows through verdant rainforest, a working rice paddy and 100-year-old temple dot the landscape, while the resort’s 35 suites and 25 villas, each with private pool, blend seamlessly with the surrounding flora and fauna.
My sense of wonder is only increased by a tour of my one-bedroom pool villa. The 430sqm abode encompasses a 30sqm private pool and tropical garden, a poolside living room with glass walls and views of the rainforest, and the main villa itself — a well-appointed bedroom, wardrobe room and expansive marble bathroom. The most striking element of the villa is its indooroutdoor design. Extra windows above the bed and in the bathroom made it feel like the rainforest is in the room with me for an instant sense of connection to nature.
First on the list of activities is dinner: and
I make my way through the rice paddies to the reserve’s signature restaurant, Kubu. The bamboo-structured riverside restaurant serves up stunning Mediterranean-European cuisine including lobster cocktail, cold almond soup with Hokkaido scallops and Wagyu beef. Despite its international flavour, almost everything on the menu throughout Mandapa’s four restaurants is locally sourced — the rice paddies themselves are not just decoration but provide the base of almost every meal.
The Pool Bar is perfect for relaxed daytime dining (the deep-fried red snapper taco is a must), while The Library is an elegant lounge for afternoon tea — accompanied by a cup of Mandapa Dulang Premium — or evening cocktails. Finally, Sawah Terrace, overlooking the river and forest, serves up next-level Asian flavours throughout the day, as well asperfect poached eggs in the mornings. Overlooking the valley, Ambar has become Ubud’s most exciting and refined bars, serving up cocktails, snacks and music to enjoy throughout the evenings — all with the most extraordinary view.
Mandapa also provides perfect picnics for more intrepid explorers, and offers tours of nearby Ubud in its fleet of vintage Volkswagens. Ubud is the perfect location from which to explore the Balinese countryside, stroll around the famous Tegalalang Rice Terraces, tour the region’s famous waterfalls and hidden caves — or
even climb Bali’s most active volcano, Mt Batur.
After getting your steps in on the challenging 1,717m climb, it’s time to relax and unwind. Mandapa’s riverside spa focuses on the wellbeing of spirit, mind and body, with a range of healing sessions and treatments on offer that draw on Bali’s reputation as a destination for spiritual wellness and inner reflection. The massage I received was designed to align the vibrations of the five koshas, or bodies that surround the soul in Balinese tradition, and I was certainly fully relaxed and rejuvenated.
The spa — which also houses a yoga pavilion, meditation temple, vitality pool and fitness centre — was the centre of my stay, thanks to its morning guided meditation sessions and an evening sound therapy session that completely sold me on the hype around this incredible wellness ritual.
As I leave Mandapa fully restored, I can only reflect that it is the focus on all senses — from sustainably-sourced gastronomy, mindful spiritual practices, to the sights and sounds of the island’s wildlife — that make Bali so completely enchanting. And these two resorts, showcasing such different styles of luxury embedded in the natural surrounds of the ocean and the rainforest, are the perfect introduction to an unforgettable destination.
stregisbali.com; ritzcarlton.com
THIS MASSAGE WAS DESIGNED TO ALIGN
THE VIBRATIONS OF THE FIVE KOSHAS THAT SURROUND THE SOUL IN BALINESE TRADITION
TRAVEL
Close to nature: View of Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, from Ambar (top left and opener); Sawah Terrace (above); Kubu restaurant (below left); Pool villa (below)
MASTER OF WONDERS
不思議の達人
As Louis Vuitton launches its extraordinary new Metiers d’Art collection, inspired by ancient Japanese artefacts, we discover how Jean Arnault’s new strategy is changing the face of fashion watches
Words: Michelle Johnson
When Louis Vuitton announced the appointment of a new director of watches development in Jean Arnault — the youngest son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault — in 2021 it marked a seismic shift in the fashion giant’s approach to watchmaking.
No longer is Louis Vuitton content to produce fashionable but technically simple watches. Instead, Jean, 25 (below), is leading a transformation of form and function, applying the same meticulous mechanical and technical brilliance to Louis Vuitton watches as LVMH-owned brands TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith enjoy.
It began with technique: Jean partnered with master watchmaker Michel Navas, the Gerald Genta-trained creative behind Patek Philip and Franck Muller’s most exciting and quirkiest complications. Together, they turned to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the manufactory in Meyrin, Geneva (founded eight years ago by Michel and watchmaker Enrico Barbasini) that combines expert research, design and manufacture within three key departments — cases, dials and movements.
The centre’s blend of traditional Swiss savoirfaire and cutting-edge technology — some of which already features the elusive Poinçon de Genève seal — has already resulted in the new look Tambour, as well as the development of the brand’s patented Spin Time movement, certified tourbillons and an atelier dedicated to grand complications such as minute repeaters and automatas. If that’s not enough, the in-house Métiers d’Arts team, led by Dick Steenman, emphasises ancient craftsmanship and embellishment techniques to bring special edition timepieces even further to life.
Jean graduated from MIT and Imperial College London where he studied mechanical engineering, before gaining experience at Morgan Stanley and McLaren Racing. But his interest in the mechanics of watches came from his elder brother Frédéric’s involvement with TAG Heuer, where he served as director of the brand’s Connected smartwatches from 2017 to 2020, before taking over as CEO. Frédéric’s success saw the creation of a new role as head of LVMH watches, which the 29-year-old assumed in January.
Like Jean and Frédéric, Bernard’s children all enjoy leadership roles within LVMH. His daughter Delphine, 48, is the CEO of Dior and executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, son Antoine, 46, is CEO of the holding company Christian Dior SE, while Alexandre, 31, serves as executive vice president of Tiffany & Co.
As Jean has told the FT: “[Frédéric and I] have a close relationship, and he started talking to me about the new watches and all the different things he was working on. I was fascinated, and that’s really the turning point.”
Jean’s influence in Louis Vuitton is equally impressive. Under his tenure, the brand’s watch division has undertaken a redesign and uplift of its watch cases and, crucially, a major turn towards creating fewer timepieces at a much higher level of quality, innovation and price point. This clever repositioning of the brand’s former fashion watches as sophisticated Swiss watches that stand toe-to-toe — or, rather, handto-hand — with significant watch and jewellery brands, but with all the legacy of one of the world’s most recognisable designer brands, is a truly changemaking shift.
The first release under Jean’s direction was the updated Tambour in 2023 — coinciding with a series of cinematic campaigns led by Oscarnominated actor Bradley Cooper — whose fearless biopic of composer Leonard Bernstein, Maestro, saw the actor and director train for six years as a conductor — as the first ever ambassador for Louis Vuitton Watches (right).
“We are lucky to have what I’d humbly call an icon in the watch industry, born in 2002,” Jean said of the Tambour. “We’ve taken the historic codes of Tambour, like the shape of the case — immediately recognisable, so that you can identify it across a room — but have brought to it the taste of 2023.”
Upon relaunching the new and vastly improved Tambour in 2023, Jean told the New York Times: “This is probably the most important launch for Louis Vuitton since the launch of the Tambour 21 years ago.”
That is, of course, until now. »
WE ARE LUCKY TO HAVE WHAT I’D HUMBLY CALL AN ICON IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY
- Jean Arnault
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INNOVATION BY DESIGN
There is no clearer an illustration of Jean’s approach than in the brand’s first ultra-luxury collection: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Arts. Spearheaded by master watchmaker Michel, the collection was inspired by the remarkable collections of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the son of Louis Vuitton’s original founder.
Gaston-Louis cut a stylish and artistic figure in his time. The only surviving son of Louis Vuitton, Gaston-Louis was an avid traveller, artist and art collector. He was known for always carrying a notebook with him, in which he sketched ideas for fashions, bags and accessories that are still inspiring Louis Vuitton creations today.
Among his fascinations was an extraordinary collection of tsubas — the decorative hand guards found on the swords of Japanese Samurai warriors. Gaston-Louis collected more than 1,000 of these round discs, which not only protect the swordsman but provided balance to the katana. Importantly, each tsuba was an expression of the individual swordsman, decorated with highly symbolic imagery or depicting the stories of ancestral heroes, and passed down between generations.
It was in these decorative but meaningful pieces that Michel found his inspiration for the Escale Métiers d’Art.
“I like very complicated watches, but I also love simple watches with novel and original complications. That is difficult to achieve,” says Michel. “Louis Vuitton is at the heart of travel… This is a mix between the art of watchmaking and the art of theatre. You’re captivated by the details of the enamel. [Each one is] a masterpiece.”
The collection consists of a trilogy of expressions, with each 20-piece limited edition adorned with a different animal motif based on traditional tsuba and Japanese culture. The Koi’s Garden features two carp engaging in a swirling dance encased in white gold. Surrounded by a pellucid stream and colourful quartz and crystal diamond-set pebbles, the dial is a calm and meditative scene created through 150 hours of handcraftsmanship. Sculpted from white gold, each scale, fin and whisker is engraved by hand
before the dial is kiln-fired to oxidise the carp and amplify the three-dimensional effect. After detail work is completed by the engraver to create iridescence, a miniature painter coats the carp in translucent blue lacquer to make them glisten as if in the clear waters of the stream. Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s personal monogram is sculpted from contrasting gold and onyx at 6 o’clock.
The second timepiece in the collection, the Snake’s Jungle, is set in the heart of a bamboo forest, where a jewel-toned serpent rears its head, extending its fangs at an orb of gold and nephrite jade forming the monogram of GastonLouis. The bamboo forest itself is composed of 367 pieces of wood, parchment and straw in 14 shades of green, using marquetry techniques. The serpent is composed using micro-sculpture, engraving and champlevé enamelling to give three-dimensional depth.
The triptyque is completed with the Dragon’s Cloud watch, a majestic dragon clutching a carnelian-set GLV monogram. Created using damascening — a rare form of decorative inlay using metals of contrasting colours — as well as hand-engraving and paillonné enamelling (containing pieces of gold leaf suspended between layers of enamel), this is a remarkable combination of some of the rarest, most delicate and technically demanding artisanal techniques in watchmaking. Yellow and rose gold monogram flower paillons adorn the dragon’s scales against a black enamel background and the dial. Finally, the dragon’s eye glows thanks to a cabochon-cut ruby.
If this collection is a sign of things to come from Jean Arnault’s strategic vision, then Louis Vuitton may find itself among the leading lights of haute horology sooner than it might expect, thanks to its emphasis on high manufacture, protecting and reviving ancient techniques and speeding ahead to innovate a limited number of truly groundbreaking timepieces.
“My father has always told me the same thing: if the product is good, the results will come,” said Jean — and it’s hard to argue with such impressive new releases.
louisvuitton.com
MEET THE ARTISANS
Dick Steenman
Louis Vuitton’s master engraver and Métiers d’Art director, Dick has 42 years’ experience mastering engraving, glyptic (gem carving), sculpting and jewellery, specialising in miniature and enamel sculpture.
Rose Saneuil
French artist and marquetry specialist
Rose has been creating exquisite mixedmaterial marquetry for more than 20 years.
Eddy Jaquet
Eddy has spent 37 years as a master engraver and is a two-time Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) winner. He is inspired by theatre, art, history and classical music.
Vanessa Lecci
Having worked for Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and many more, art enameller Vanessa is a master of rare techniques including cloisonné, champlevé and miniature painting.
Fanny Quelloz
2022 Veuve Cliquot Bold Future Award winner Fanny is a specialist in the decorative metalwork technique damascening and co-founder of Switzerland’s the Arts & Designer Manufacture SA.
Taemi Tanaka Muller
Louis Vuitton’s in-house enameller, Taemi studied arts and enamel in Japan, mastering exacting techniques including champlevé, plique à jour, cloisonné, grisaille, Geneva technique and miniature painting.
Samurai stories: The Koi’s Garden (main), Snake’s Jungle (right) and Dragon’s Cloud (centre) make up the Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art trilogy
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COURTESY LOUIS VUITTON WATCHES; BRADLEY COOPER WEARS LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR ©MARIO SORRENTI/LOUIS VUITTON
IMAGES:
MAESTRO & MUSE
Fresh from awards season, actor, writer and director Bradley Cooper talks Maestro, his epic ode to composer Leonard Bernstein
Interview: Lucy Allen
It took more than six years of training, research and devotion for Bradley Cooper to bring Leonard Bernstein to the silver screen. Interestingly, one of the most difficult parts for the 49-year-old filmmaker was learning how to conduct an orchestra in a way that fully embodied the famed conductor and composer.
This fact has caught the imagination of all who watched Bradley’s prestige biopic Maestro — which he co-wrote, produced, directed and starred in — in the run up to awards season.
While Maestro did not win any of its impressive seven Oscar nominations, Bradley’s tender
exploration of the life and loves of the musical legend has yet wowed fans and critics thanks to its romantic cinematography, ground-breaking prosthetics and stellar performances by its cast members, including Carey Mulligan as Felicia Bernstein, Leonard’s wife, and Matt Bomer, who plays the composer’s lover David Oppenheim.
Bradley’s exploration of the life and loves of Leonard Bernstein tracks the 30year relationship and friendship of the composer and Felicia, and was praised for its authenticity by the couple’s children, Jamie, Alexander and Nina.
Bradley, who in 2022 became Louis Vuitton’s first ever dedicated watch ambassador, revealed that Maestro was a passion project born of his obsession with conducting that started when he was a young boy – and, fittingly, the tentime Oscar nominee has passed down his love of music to his seven-year-old daughter, Lea, whom he shares with supermodel Irina Shayk. Here, Bradley dives into the world of Leonard Bernstein and tells us how he captured the composer’s unique musicality — and why he couldn’t have done it without the faith of his exceptional castmates. »
Bradley, you’ve been fated for this role since you were eight years old, is that right?
Maybe! [Laughs] You know, when I was growing up and watching movies, the ones that really stayed with me were ones where I couldn’t believe there was a camera there. When we were [filming Maestro], it didn’t really feel like acting; it really felt like we were part of something that was very special. And I just feel so privileged to have been able to be a part of this, really — it’s life changing.
Is it true that, as a child, you asked Santa for a baton?
Yes, I asked for a baton. I used to watch those cartoons, Looney Tunes, with Bugs Bunny conducting. I spent, embarrassingly, too many hours just pretending I was doing that as a kid, and even into my adolescent years, maybe even college. So I had all these years of being obsessed with it and I think that certainly made it more easy for me to believe this sort of illusion, and this beautiful journey as Lenny [Bernstein]. My daughter [Lea] asked for one for Christmas, which is hilarious.
Leonard’s three children praised the film’s authenticity. What did their support mean to you?
Well, truth is the thing that lives. I think [Leonard’s] kids took a chance with me early on, because I didn’t know what I was going to write at the time that they gave us the rights of music, but I did share with them my passion for conducting. When I first came to them and said: ‘I want to make a movie about your parents and your mother’, they were really shocked. I don’t even know if they really believed that it was going to be a movie very focused on Felicia. I think that they were very happy that we were able to unearth this incredible woman, this mother of theirs, and put her for you all to see and get to know.
Carey Mulligan, who plays Felicia, delivers a magnificent performance. Would you say that the film is not just a biopic, but a love story?
Every time we spoke to people — I must have interviewed 30-some people — they always talked about [Felicia]. They never said, ‘Lenny and his wife’, it was always, ‘Lenny and Felicia’ – they came as a duo. That was always so powerful. You could see how privileged they
felt to have known them. They really were just incredible energies.
Carey came on board with no script fourand-a-half years ago. We went to Philadelphia and narrated [the Leonard Bernstein operetta] Candide for six days, for free, and she agreed to do that. Everybody put in this tremendous work… just for the love of the game.
Equally, Matt Bomer does a brilliant job play Leonard’s lover, David. There’s such little real estate that we have dedicated in this movie to [Leonard and David’s] relationship, and it’s only because of [Matt] that we were able to tell that story with so much power. One of my favourite moments [is when] Lenny, without any sense of consciousness, introduces Felicia to David. I always wanted these two close-ups, and you don’t even see Lenny, he’s just saying: ‘Oh, is that insensitive of me?’
When you’re working with these kinds of actors, you want to be audibly excited — but you don’t because you’re going mess up the take. I was right there in the scene but I’m also going: ‘You nailed it!’. I had to control myself. But it was just so beautiful to watch [Matt] in that moment when he’s taking it all in. The movie just wants to stay with him. I’m just so lucky that he agreed to do this film.
Leonard Bernstein was famed for his musicality; how did you utilise his music in the film?
That was a key element. I knew that I wasn’t going to make a biopic just because he’s the most photographed, videoed, documented musician maybe of all time. There’s no reason to do that. Many good documentaries have made about him. But I did want to serve his legacy, musically. I thought, well, the best thing to do is tell a story that we can relate to, hopefully; and it’s all to the rhythm of his music. The movie is scored to his music, and that is, to me, the best way that I can present to you this man’s beauty and his gifts.
Tell us about shooting in the film’ s historic locations?
Again, this didn’t really feel like filming as much as a ritual; a sort of a channelling. And that was very early on — I could just feel him [Leonard]. He died in 1990 but I swear I knew him. This movie has messed time up for me. It’s bent time, it really has.
We tried to shoot in all the [real] locations. [His] children opened their home to us — that house you see in the beginning of the trailer, that’s their Fairfield, Connecticut home, that we see in the 1950s in black and white, and then again in colour.
And we got to shoot in Carnegie Hall, which was just magical. We shot in Ely Cathedral, where Lenny conducts Mahler’s symphony in the 70s. Some of the orchestra members had played with him — the harpist’s teacher was in that performance, so the harp was exactly in that place. It was really just incredible.
There is a pivotal scene in Ely Cathedral where you really embody Leonard. How long did it take you to perfect this?
That took a lot of years — six years of working on it, because conducting is impossible, which I didn’t realise. It’s such a hard thing when you’re keeping the tempo and reminding the orchestra of the decisions that were made and, at the same time, having to digest all this music and send it back out to the audience. [Leonard] really was able to stand in the centre of the sun. I worked intimately with Gustavo Dudamel, who conducted the London Symphony Orchestra at the Hollywood Bowl. I was with him for the entire process. I went with him to Berlin, to the Berlin Philharmonic. And then Yannick Nézet-Séguin, the musical director of the Met Opera, he was there every day. He was the one who taught me everything. He is part of Lenny in this movie.
Kazu Hiro has been rightly applauded for his incredible prosthetics. Can you tell us about that?
He applied them all himself with a few of his team. I basically spent weekends at his house putting on the prosthetics, and my daughter playing with all of his paint brushes in the background for seven hours. Thank you, Lea, for being patient.
We did tests at Disney Hall three-and-a-half years ago, five looks in 24 hours — just to make sure I didn’t look like a Saturday Night Live sketch — and it was unbelievable. We just kept working, even during the filming. We would show up at 1am or 2am but crew call wouldn’t be until 7am… that’s where we would create Lenny, so I could direct the film as Lenny. It was just this active process every day. He just never gave up, always trying to improve it. It was so inspiring to be working with him.
Leading man: Bradley Cooper wears Louis Vuitton to this year’s EE Bafta Film Awards. Previous: Louis Vuitton watch ambassador Bradley stars in the brand’s Tambour campaign, photographed by Mario Sorrenti
I WANTED SERVE LEONARD’S LEGACY MUSICALLY... THAT IS, TO ME, THE BEST WAY THAT I CAN PRESENT TO YOU THIS MAN’S BEAUTY AND HIS GIFTS
INTERVIEW: LUCY ALLEN/HOTFEATURES. IMAGES: LOUIS VUITTON
Haute horology specialists
Baker Brothers share the importance of regular watch servicing
TREAT YOUR WATCH LIKE A CHERISHED FRIEND, ENSURING EVERY PART WORKS IN HARMONY. SERVICING NOT ONLY PREVENTS DAMAGE BUT ALSO EXTENDS ITS LIFESPAN, ALLOWING YOU TO ENJOY ITS PRECISION FOR YEARS TO COME
In the world of horology, where every tick represents precision and craftsmanship, the significance of regular watch servicing cannot be overstated. From iconic Swiss timepieces to independent creations, servicing your watch is more than just maintenance, it’s a commitment to preserving its integrity, accuracy and longevity.
For enthusiasts and collectors alike, a timepiece represents more than a mere accessory; it embodies history, innovation, and the ingenuity of human endeavour. Take, for instance, the distinguished craftsmanship exemplified by brands such as Tudor, TAG Heuer and Longines world renowned names in luxury horology. Their timepieces not only symbolise opulence but also exemplify the intricate mechanics that propel the hands forward, marking the passage of time with unparalleled precision.
So, why is servicing your watch so crucial?
While watches may seem small in the grand scheme of things, they are marvels of engineering, often comprising over 220 intricate parts. The movements within them experience approximately 250 million impulses per year from the escapement alone. This perpetual activity inevitably leads to friction and wear, highlighting the considerable effort your watch expends for you. Regular servicing is essential to ensure these intricate mechanisms remain in optimal condition.
Treat your watch like a cherished friend, ensuring every part works in harmony. Servicing not only prevents damage but also extends its lifespan, allowing you to enjoy its precision for years to come.
During your appointment with a Baker
Brothers repair specialist, we will inspect your watch together and discuss any concerns you may have. Through this, we can guide you as to what to expect from your service, including any potential costs and return time expectations. When you are happy, we book your precious timepiece in to our repair system and ready it for servicing.
Many people are curious about the inner workings of a watch service. Essentially, this meticulous process involves several intricate steps to ensure your timepiece operates flawlessly.
A watch service commences with the careful disassembly of the timepiece, allowing skilled technicians to meticulously clean and inspect each component. This thorough examination helps identify any signs of wear or damage that may compromise the watch’s functionality.
Once inspected any damaged or worn components will be replaced and the movement is meticulously lubricated, ensuring smooth operation and longevity. Precision is paramount as a watchmaker will adjust the timing and calibration to guarantee accurate timekeeping, a hallmark of every well-serviced watch.
At Baker Brothers, if additional work is recommended to uphold your watch’s pristine condition, we provide transparent communication and guidance. Your trust is invaluable to us, and we ensure you’re fully informed before proceeding with any additional services.
Once you are happy, we will proceed with the swift replacement of these components along with all the other necessary adjustments and replacements so your watch can be
expertly reassembled with the utmost care and attention to detail.
Regularly servicing your watch not only ensures its optimal performance but can also lead to significant monetary savings over time. While the initial cost of servicing may seem like an investment, it’s a wise one that can prevent more substantial expenses in the future. By addressing minor issues during routine maintenance, you can avoid the need for costly repairs or replacements down the line. Additionally, a well-maintained watch is less prone to sudden failures or breakdowns, reducing the likelihood of unexpected expenses. Ultimately, investing in regular servicing not only preserves the longevity of your timepiece but also safeguards your finances in the long run.
In a world where time waits for no one, the reliability of a well-serviced watch becomes invaluable. From the intricate complications of a chronograph to the timeless elegance of a classic dress watch, each timepiece weaves a narrative that transcends the constraints of time and space, linking past, present, and future in a seamless continuum.
The significance of servicing your watch extends beyond mere maintenance; it’s a tribute to craftsmanship, heritage, and the enduring legacy of horology. As custodians of time, we have a responsibility to ourselves and future generations to uphold the integrity of these mechanical marvels, ensuring they continue to evoke awe and admiration for years to come.
Contact Baker Brothers via their website bakerbrothersdiamonds.com or phone
01234 630821
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PARTNER FEATURE
THE DRESS CODE
Sara Parker Bowles is a celebrity stylist, fashion editor and, now, founder of Wardrobe Revivals — a personal styling consultancy that emphasises circular fashion, timeless style and dressing with confidence. Here, Sara shares the key to perfecting your look
If I had the choice, I’d wear head-to-toe Prada and Phoebe Philo, with a bit of Sacai, Isabel Marant and The Row thrown in for good measure. In reality, all the designer pieces I own come from sample sales, markets or my favourite pre-owned websites. I like Reformation for shoes and Zara for accessories (like shoes, bags and scarves) as they are always current. I love shopping at Portobello Market early on a Friday morning — I still get a thrill from finding totally unique pieces.
My background is in journalism: luxury publishing, celebrity profiles and, of course, fashion. I was an editor at British Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, reporting on all the major collections from New York, Milan, Paris and London Fashion Weeks for many years.
When you work in fashion, you spend hours waiting and watching — and that’s where the education begins. Watching, mesmerised, as
Kate Moss is photographed by Corinne Day, wearing a vintage prom dress and Vivienne Westwood pirate boots. Waiting for the Dolce & Gabbana show to start while drinking in all the front row action — the crazy characters with their cartoon-character hairstyles and head-to-toe Issey Miyake; the French Vogue editors with their bright green chubby furs, brilliant bed-hair and Alaïa belts; the British editors, intellectual and cool in Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan; and Anna Wintour, ever inscrutable, in dark glasses and Chanel. Watching off-duty models backstage or wafting around Paris, surreally beautiful and almost always dressed down in biker boots and baseball caps, vest tops and good jeans. Over time, I gathered this sartorial knowledge, as if by osmosis.
My style incorporates well-cut comfortable trousers in charcoal or black and a cashmere
crewneck, or denim with trainers or penny loafers and some Hommesgirls white socks. I have jeans in multiple styles by multiple labels – Paige, Frame, J Brand, True Religion, Re-Done, Reformation. I like a bit of masculine tailoring –an oversized blazer or Tom Ford shirt — but I’ll mix it up with a silk La Perla camisole and heels for night. I wear a lot of black for evening. I adore the sexiness of [Harper’s Bazaar global fashion director] Carine Roitfeld’s signature silhouette of pencil skirts and killer heels but I just can’t wear heels the way I used to, so I always return to my New Balance trainers or Adidas Gazelles.
But in terms of classic style icons, I love Charlotte Rampling — especially her Ossie Clarke boho dresses in the 70s — Lauren Hutton’s effortless off-duty, safari-meetsAmerican athleisure-luxe, and, of course, Jane Birkin. Kate Moss, Irina Shayk and Sofia Richie are modern day icons. »
STYLE REVIVAL
Although I meet some of the most successful, attractive and intelligent women through my service, I am constantly surprised by how intimidated they can be by fashion – the sheer volume of choice and constant feed of social media trends can be alienating and overwhelming.
It was the combination of recognising I had accumulated this style know-how and hearing all my friends moaning about ‘having nothing to wear’ (when I knew full well they were all in the possession of perfectly healthy wardrobes) that inspired me to start my own styling consultancy, Wardrobe Revivals. The aim is to help women de-clutter their wardrobes, identify what they have and what’s missing, and then build that wardrobe into a hard-working, super sleek collection of go-to outfits they love and can rely on.
Wardrobe Revivals focuses on making the most of what you own and encouraging mindful shopping and, crucially, it’s confidenceenhancing, rather than critical.
This method is also inherently circular. It’s impossible to have an authentic, responsible conversation about fashion these days without sustainability being part of the conversation. Fashion needs to be more environmentally responsible, and there are many brilliant preowned shops out there right now — Sign of the Times, HEWI, Rokit, Vestiaire Collective and The Real Real are just a few of my favourites.
A big part of my service is to demystify the art of dressing: with a few simple sartorial style strategies, I really believe that anyone can dress well and feel confident. I encourage individuality: it’s important to establish your own taste and discover what works for your body and your lifestyle.
GET THE LOOK
Building a good quality capsule wardrobe will form the foundation of your style and enable you to create go-to outfits. Once you have established your classic pieces, it’s easier to make the right decision about what to add.
Wear one thing that’s a talking point — and that can be as avant-garde (a deconstructed jacket, a surprising neckline) or as accessible (a statement shoe, a velvet ribbon worn as a choker, a fabulous belt or scarf) as you like. Otherwise, keep it simple.
Sometimes it’s not just what you wear but how you wear it. And with just a few little tweaks, you too can achieve that playful but pulled together look that Jane Birkin mastered so effortlessly:
The tuck: It’s almost always more flattering to draw attention to your waist so, if in doubt, tuck your shirt in and add a belt. The fashion crowd favour the asymmetrical tuck: just one side of the shirt et voila! A sartorial nonchalance that can’t fail to deliver.
The rolled-up sleeve: On T-shirts, shirts, jackets – an imperfect roll of the sleeve can give your outfit that instant insouciant quality.
Up-turned collars: Especially on coats, jackets and cotton shirts layered under a knit. It instantly elevates your look.
Accessorise your accessories: Tie a favourite scarf onto your shopper or weekend bag to make it personal.
Crop your trousers: Former French Vogue editor, Emmanuelle Alt, crops all her slim cut trousers. The effect is a really flattering silhouette — and it’s particularly useful if you are on the shorter side.
wardroberevivals.com
Fashion focus: Stylist Sara Parker Bowles (far right) on how to revive your wardrobe and curate the perfect capsule collections
SARA’S PERFECT CAPSULE COLLECTION
Every woman’s wardrobe must-haves
• Two coats: a greatcoat in soft caramel, black, marshmallow or cream, plus a trench coat
• Jackets: an oversized blazer and a black evening jacket
• Shirts: tailored crisp shirts in blue, white, and khaki and a beautiful silk shirt
• Knits: some lovely knits in V-neck, round neck and roll neck styles
• Tops: good quality white or grey t shirts (James Perse, Uniqlo and Sunspel are my go-to brands)
• Trousers: a pair of tailored black trousers that fit just so, and a great pair of jeans
• Skirts: a long, bias-cut silk skirt in black, cream or (as Diana Vreeland put it) ‘pig white’
• Dresses: an LBD for evening and a couple of neutral day dresses (I would also add a 90s-inspired slip dress)
• Shoes: a great pair of boots, a smart pair of flats, trainers, heels and sandals
Making a splash
Is bigger always better, or should we be setting sail in a ‘pocket explorer’? We cruise the most exciting yacht launches of the year
Words: Rory FH Smith
For as long as the superyacht arms race has existed, bigger has always meant better. While the top yachts launching in 2024 don’t entirely dispel that theory, a number of them point to innovative new trends, from alternative fuels and more efficient designs to smaller, self-sustaining ‘pocket explorers’ that are happy hiding away in the wilderness.
“There’s still a big focus on pocket explorers
— go anywhere yachts to explore further afield — from top quality Northern European shipyards,” says yacht broker Hemmo Bloemers, director of London- and Monacobased Roccabella Yachts. “Additionally, alternative methods of propulsion, such as alternative fuels and hydrogen are the latest, and one of the most interesting new trends in the market,” he adds.
On the inside, large, glazed areas continue to be a major feature of new yachts, alongside feature staircases and super-sized screens.
If the crop of superyachts making a splash this year are anything to go by, then the yacht industry remains in rude health. From 112m gigayachts to elegant hybrid-electric sailing boats, 2024 will see some of the most intriguing craft hit the high seas over the coming months. »
YACHTS
KISMET 122M | LURSSEN
After Pakistani-American billionaire businessman and serial superyacht owner Shahid Khan sold the last iteration of Kismet last year for an undisclosed amount (the asking price was £127m), it set the scene for an impressive follow-up. The latest Kismet (this page and below) — delivered earlier this year from German shipbuilder Lurssen — is the third and largest boat commissioned by Khan under the Kismet name, and it certainly doesn’t disappoint. Weighing in at 122m, Kismet is 27m longer than her predecessor, which is now renamed Whisper and rumoured to be owned by former Google CEO Eric Schmidt.
Complete with three pools, two cinemas and an underwater viewing lounge, Kismet has room for 12 guests in nine cabins luxuriously spread over six decks, and no fewer than 37 crew. The master suite spans an expansive two decks, with a skylight and fireplace, as well as a private jacuzzi and a sunbathing area. Above, a private staircase leads to a panoramic master office, complete with its own dedicated pantry.
At its heart lies a tranquil, Balinese-inspired spa, complete with a hammam, sauna, and cryotherapy chamber, while a gym, yoga studio, juice bar, basketball and pickleball court give Kismet the sporting edge, in line with Khan’s portfolio of global sports clubs. Despite just being delivered, Kismet is already available for charter for a cool £2.5m per week with yacht broker and charter company Cecil Wright – just a slice of her rumoured £280m build cost.
lurssen.com
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PROJECT FOX 35M | PENDENNIS
Setting herself apart from the rest of the superyacht scene is Project Fox. Designed as a compact explorer for its anonymous but adventurous British owner, Project Fox (right) is being built by Cornish boat builder Pendennis and is scheduled for delivery this Spring.
Aptly named after one of Falmouth’s most famous sons — Robert Were Fox the Younger — who enabled exploration by inventing a compass that measured magnetic dip at sea in high latitudes, Project Fox is ready to take the route less travelled with a range of 3,000 nautical miles. Key to her design is the 103.5 sqm main deck aft, which carries everything from water toys and two 7.5m tenders, to amphibious vehicles and submersibles, launched by two heavy-duty deck cranes. Inside, the all-British yacht’s beachhouse style interior was designed by Q London, with a DJ station, glass-walled sky lounge and room for ten guests in five suites.
“For us, Project Fox represents the ‘Best of British’ — it’s the most exciting yacht being launched in 2024,” says Bloemers, who represents and manages the craft. “Although it’s not the biggest, it’s another example of what incredible workmanship, craft and skill the Brits can still produce.” »
pendennis.com
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YACHTS
PROJECT JADE 50M | HEESEN
After delivering four yachts in 2023, Dutch boatbuilder Heesen sailed into 2024 with 13 yachts under construction — four of which are set to launch this year. One of those is Project Jade (this page), a 50m all-aluminium fast-cruising yacht with a top speed of 23 knots, and powered by some of the greenest engines on the ocean. With a sporty exterior design and low-drag hull by Omega Architects, the interior design is the work of Italian firm Cristiano Gatto Design.
With room for up nine crew and 12 guests in five rooms, including an owners’ suite on the main deck forward, the remaining guest cabins — two doubles and two twins — are on the lower deck. On the elevated aft deck sits a large whirlpool with sunpads, which also allows for a full-height, multi-purpose tender garage-cumluxury beach club on the lower deck.
“The whole superstructure is slightly curved giving her a more elegant aft end, while the use of wrap-around glass and loose exterior furniture mean deck spaces have generous seating, but remain airy, light and well detailed,” says designer Frank Laupman of Omega Architects. One of three similar ships built in this class by Hessen, Jade sold for an undisclosed amount in February 2024 ahead of its delivery this spring.
heesenyachts.com
SWAN 88 26.5M | NAUTOR SWAN
Representing the very best in wind power is the Swan 88 hybrid sailing boat, currently in the final stages of build with Finnish builder, Nautor Swan. Swan 88 (this page) is the first to be produced by the company with a diesel-electric propulsion.
Described by Nautor Swan as a “nocompromise cruiser with a racer soul,” the elegant, 26.5m yacht has room for ten guests, including an owner’s cabin located forward, and four guest ensuite cabins. The crew area is big enough for four crew members and all interior details, which are yet to be revealed, have been styled by renowned interior designer Misa Poggi, while the naval architecture is by Germàn Frers and the exterior design by Lucio Micheletti.
“The Swan 88 has been conceived to be the entry size to the Swan Maxi World,” says CEO Giovanni Pomati. “This is the first of several projects that will involve the international collaboration of Germàn, Lucio and Misa. Having a great team you can rely on is something wonderful, and certainly makes the job easier. An international team brings different elements of culture, and it is this that makes a project unique — and what makes a Swan a Swan.”
nautorswan.com
HAVING AN INTERNATIONAL TEAM WORKING TOGETHER MAKES A PROJECT UNIQUE
— Giovanni Pomati, Nautor Swan
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Top of the world
The bear eyes me intently from mere metres away, a giant paw raised and ready to swipe, while its gaping mouth flashes a chilling glimpse of the fearsome predator’s bone-crushing canines. HX Expedition Leader, Torstein Nilsen
opening up areas once blanketed with thick sea ice, scientists believe the bears are increasingly roaming across territories, and breeding.
Meanwhile, expedition cruise operator HX (formerly Hurtigruten) is also exploring regions which
legendary stretch is accessible by ship between the summer months of July and September, a cruise of the Northwest Passage is one of the world’s great expeditions, sailing passengers into a remote, almost mythical realm of ancient landscapes,
TRAVEL
I’D RATHER EAT POLAR BEAR MEAT THAN PIZZA ANY DAY — ALTHOUGH IT TAKES A LOT LONGER TO COOK
HISTORY REVEALED
My 27-day voyage on the Fridtjof Nansen begins in Reykjavik, continues from the Icelandic capital across the Denmark Strait and enters Prince Christian Sound, with its glistening glaciers and imposing granite peaks, before reaching the breathtaking fjords of southern Greenland. Here, we wander historic Viking settlements and take in the museum, galleries and a traditional drum dance performance in the capital, Nuuk, before exploring the islands scattered throughout the Northwest Passage then crossing the Bering Strait to Nome, our jumping off point in Alaska.
Brand-new explorer boats zip passengers across white-capped waves and past solitary powder-blue icebergs for shore landings, each of us dressed in HX’s warm black rubber boots and complimentary bright red and yellow waterproof jackets, signalling our arrival at the four Inuit communities who embrace our visits so warmly throughout Canada’s Arctic Archipelago. At Baffin Island’s hamlet of Pond Inlet in Nunuvut, our Inuk guide, Ena, describes the challenge she felt as a girl, walking a tightrope between two cultures; keeping alive ancient traditions in a rapidly changing modern world and, now, reimagining the tightrope as “a zip to pull those two lives together”.
The world’s fifth-largest island has a population of 13,000 people, plus 2,800 polar bears and large pods of narwhals wielding their distinctive ‘unicorn’ tusks in Baffin Bay. While supermarket shelves are stacked with imported fresh produce and pizza, and speciality coffees are served from the world’s northernmost Tim Hortons (the Canadian version of Costa), wooden sleds splayed with furs and scattered seal bones hint that traditional hunting still lies at the community’s heart.
“I’d rather eat polar bear meat than pizza any day,” smiles Ena, “although it takes a lot longer to cook.”
EXPLORE IN STYLE
On board, First Nation cultural interpreters share their stories about life in this climatically harsh – but environmentally fragile – land, and performers from local communities showcase traditional throat-singing, music and dance. And while the option to lie back and enjoy the luxuries of the state-of-the-art Scandistyle ship with its pool, hot tubs, restaurants, bar and spa is always there, HX’s daily lecture series and Citizen Science programme offers a deep-dive into the polar region for passengers keen to learn.
A diverse team of experts deliver talks on climate science, polar history, ornithology, archeology, marine biology and geology, while sessions in the Science Centre offer close-up peeks at plankton, the microscopic organisms which underpin all Arctic life.
The Fridtjof Nansen hosts up to 530 guests, but with a two-level indoor and outdoor Observation Deck and a vast Explorer Lounge offering panoramic views, often accompanied by a soothing soundtrack from the ship’s resident pianist, I find plenty of time and space to watch the world and wildlife drift by.
HX reserves a number of cabins for scientists, facilitating essential research in this remote and costly part of the world — on my voyage, marine conservation organisation ORCA has a biologist on board, recording daily whale sightings from the bow of the ship.
Exploring rugged Arctic islands, we see shaggy musk oxen, pods of snow-white belugas, thousands of soaring seabirds and polar bears roaming the ruins of Hudson Bay trading posts. We see graves of long-lost explorers on windswept beaches, uncover ancient Thule settlements amid Arctic heather, and submerge ourselves in icy water during a skin-tingling ‘polar plunge’.
But it’s time spent with the resilient communities at the top of the world which leaves many who pass through the Northwest Passage forever changed.
travelhx.com
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Arctic glory: Guests of the Fridtjof Nansen cruise through the famous Northwest Passage
TOMORROW’S WORLD
Walpole unveils the future of the luxury sector with its 2024 Brands of Tomorrow
Words:
Shivani Dubey
When it comes to discovering the brands to watch, few do it better than Walpole. The industry body for the British luxury sector first launched its annual Brands of Tomorrow programme 17 years ago to provide mentoring, networking and visibility to emerging luxury brands. Since then, previous mentees including Bremont, House of Hackney, Emilia Wickstead and Nyetimber have become international household names.
This year’s cohort features 12 extraordinary new brands across a range of sectors — from jewellery and hair care to spirits and cooking — all linked by a shared ethos of artisanal craftsmanship, sustainable practices and British innovation.
Announcing the 2024 Brands of Tomorrow at The Ned in February, Walpole CEO Helen Brocklebank said: “Walpole’s Brands of Tomorrow programme was launched with the goal of ensuring long-term growth for the UK’s luxury sector by supporting and mentoring early-stage British luxury brands. I’m always inspired and grateful by how wholeheartedly the Walpole member community, particularly the mentors, support these fledgling businesses.”
Now in its 17th year, Walpole’s development programme aims to support the success and growth of the British luxury industry — currently worth £48bn to the UK economy — by passing on these skills and experience to emerging brands. Here, we take a closer look at the class of 2024.
thewalpole.co.uk
FIELDEN
The whisky brand committed to making the world’s most sustainable spirit, Fielden’s aim is to bring England’s fields back to life by working with heritage grains that grew centuries before, with minimal intervention or agricultural chemicals. Instead, the grain is grown in clover — a natural fertiliser that helps the soil stay healthy — resulting in a rye whisky spirit (right) that is packed with flavour. Water of life, indeed.
fielden.com
JUKES CORDIALITIES
Business supremo Jack Hollihan and wine writer Matthew Jukes developed Jukes Cordialities (right) after a ‘dry’ lunch that led them to the challenge of creating a sophisticated, alcohol-free drink that could work as a refined alcohol-free stand-in for fine wine. The organic apple cider vinegar-based drinks are made with all-natural ingredients, and include a rosé, crisp and classic whites, dark and bright reds. For toasts there are also three sparkling beverages, including a zeroalcohol sparkling pinot noir – cheers!
jukescordialities.com
OTIUMBERG
Otiumberg (left and main) is a B-Corp certified jewellery brand established in 2016 by London-based sisters Christie and Rusanna Wollenberg. Their collection is an ode to effortless and understated luxury, focused on subtle detailing and minimalist style. Each piece is handcrafted from responsibly sourced precious and demi-precious materials, creating modern heirlooms for the everyday. Refined simplicity, redefined.
otiumberg.com
MONC EYEWEAR
Monc (left) is on a mission to change the industry by designing glasses that not only match the wearer’s personal style, but are sustainable while still maintaining the highest quality of materials. With a diverse range of shapes and styles, Monc’s gender-inclusive collection of bioacetate eyewear is built to last and make a statement. Eyewear to watch out for. »
monclondon.com
GIGI & OLIVE
Your bridal journey starts here, thanks to Gigi & Olive’s all-bases-covered service. From hen do to honeymoon – and, of course, the big day itself Gigi & Olive (top right) promises a premium, personalised and stylish experience, from veils to reception napkins and beach wraps. Along with its own in-house designs, the brand brings together carefully curated selections from female-founded bridal brands to suit every taste, whether you’re looking for whimsical touches or wow-factor moments.
gigiandolive.com
LARRY KING
Renowned hairstylist Larry King made his name with brands like Vogue, GQ and Vanity before launching his eponymous haircare line (right) in 2018, in partnership with wife Laura. Emphasising the art of self-care, Larry says each product is designed to be “multi-tasking, efficacious and [with] clean formulas” — and promises to look great on even the chicest bathroom shelf, thanks to its eco-friendly packaging. A haircare brand that guarantees “a social life for your hair”, no matter what your style.
larrykinghair.com
HARRISON HERITAGE
With the outdoor entertaining season tantalisingly near, you may well be in the market for an outdoor oven. For a premium model that emphasises the joy of charcoal cooking but is also crafted with the precision of an art historian, Harrison Heritage’s founder and designer Daniel Thumwood is a name you need to know. His charcoal ovens (below right) fuse functionality with outstanding design and have attracted the endorsement of acclaimed chefs including Jason Atherton and Yotam Ottolenghi – so you can trust that you’ll be cooking with fire.
harrisonovens.com
POODLE & BLONDE
Presenter, singer and now interior designer Whinnie Williams has paired up with production consultant Kierra Campbell to launch innovative print house Poodle & Blonde, whose retro-inspired wallpapers, fabrics and lighting (bottom right) will almost certainly go on to become vintage pieces that last a lifetime. These designs take inspiration from the past and propel them into the modern era.
poodleandblonde.com
THESE 12 EXTRAORDINARY NEW BRANDS ARE LINKED BY A SHARED ETHOS OF ARTISANAL CRAFTSMANSHIP, SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES AND BRITISH INNOVATION
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HUCKLEBERRY
From ‘below stairs’ Georgian-style pieces to solid oak outdoor furniture to endure any weather, Huckleberry’s handcrafted pieces (top left) — made in the south of England — are an investment piece for any home. In particular, the brand’s sleek garden kitchens are an instant elevation to the summer season.
huckleberryhome.co.uk
KATTO
Luxury kitchenware brand Katto (bottom left) prides itself on using sustainable materials to create exceptional hand-made cooking implements. Based in Sheffield — the traditional home of finely wrought steel — Katto has crafted a stunningly designed collection from high-quality chef’s knives to cast iron skillets. As co-founder Josh Roberts explains: “I wanted kitchenware which looked great, oozed character and had strong sustainability credentials.” A perfect statement piece for any kitchen.
katto.shop
SHORE
Founded in 2015, Shore (top right) is a luxury home furnishings brand specialising in ergonomic rugs and soft furnishings made from handwoven high-performance materials. Every piece is handmade in its London studio, combining rigorous material research and experimental craftsmanship to create a customisable rug that merges the health benefits of an anti-fatigue mat with the appeal of a fine handwoven carpet.
shore-studios.com
CITIZENS OF SOIL
If you want to be part of a sustainability-focused brand that is changing the face of the olive oil industry, Citizens of Soil is your new go-to. The extra-virgin olive oil subscription service (bottom right) sources directly from award-winning, small-scale producers who practise regenerative farming. With programmes to support women in the industry and a transparent fair pay model, Citizens of Soil also donates 1% of product sales to soil regeneration projects and ensure the future of this liquid gold.
citizensofsoil.com
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Food trends come and food trends go. While many are fleeting flashes in the (social media) pan – I’m looking at you, “girl dinner” and butter boards – some evolve into something far more substantial.
It’s not so long ago, for example, that “farm-tofork” felt like marketing spiel. Flash forward to 2024 and local and seasonal eating – however you phrase it – seems the very minimum we should demand.
Of course, some will always need their avo toast and even the most judgmental among us has undoubtedly succumbed to an imported, out-of-season tomato. But produce at its peak, sourced as close to the kitchen as possible?
That’s something clearly worth celebrating. It’s better for the planet. With (probably) higher
GROW I NG LOCAL
We explore how seasonal produce has become synonymous with good taste
levels of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, it’s better for us. And, key to an article celebrating farm-to-fork restaurants, it just tastes better.
Chef Owen Kenworthy agrees. Having recently earned his fabled Notting Hill gastropub The Pelican a coveted Bib Gourmand, Owen is about to (re)open Holland Park’s legendary celebrity haunt Julie’s Restaurant after more than 50 years as an A-list magnet.
Owen works closely with his producers and, in effect, they dictate the menu. “These days we’re thinking more local and monthly than local and seasonal,” he explains. “Asparagus, for example, doesn’t grow through the spring, it’s only here for a few weeks, so I don’t call my suppliers asking
Words: Neil Davey
for 4kg of onions, 10kg of potatoes and six cucumbers; I ask them what they’ve got and then we’ll figure out what to do with it. And that’s more exciting, it forces creativity.”
Obviously, Owen isn’t alone in this ethos. Eminent “neighbour” The Ledbury, has earned three Michelin stars through, essentially, Brett Graham doing creative, innovative dishes with ingredients sourced from local producers and foragers. It’s the same at The Sportsman in Kent, where, as they put it, chef-patron Stephen Harris “lets the area around the pub dictate what we cook”, whether that’s the Thames
Estuary providing oysters and fish, meat and vegetables from the surrounding marshland, woods and farms, or even veg from their own kitchen garden. »
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SUPPLY AND DEMAND
While that grow-some-of-your-own approach is evident in many of the country’s great kitchens — such as The Whitebrook in Wales, James Sherwin’s splendid (and still surprisingly under the radar) Wild Shropshire, and the stellar Moor Hall and L’Enclume to name but a few — it’s also evident (and highly accessible) at the Scottish Café, at the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh.
Run by local legends Victor and Carina Contini it is, frankly, the benchmark by which we should measure all museum catering. Local suppliers are listed on the menu, with seasonal vegetables, fruit and (particularly delicious) berries grown on the Contini’s own nearby smallholding – and herbs coming from their own “secret” patch in Princes Gardens.
Continuing that more relaxed feel, the Cotswolds is, as you might expect, dotted with many establishments that support its local farmers. A fine example is the award-winning The Wild Rabbit, under executive chef Sam Bowser in the classically chocolate-box village of Kingham, which also has the slight advantage of having Daylesford Organic about a mile down the road but also works closely with other fine local suppliers and producers.
One place we can’t overlook here is, of course, River Cottage. Founder Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall is perhaps the UK’s best known “crusader” and advocate for sustainable and ethical (and, as mentioned above, delicious) dining practices. As well as being able to eat River Cottage’s own, and locally sourced, ingredients, visitors can also educate themselves as to why we should, and how we can, be eating more thoughtfully, with courses on foraging, fermenting and baking, to name but a few.
I DON’T CALL MY SUPPLIERS ASKING FOR 4KG OF ONIONS, 10KG OF POTATOES AND SIX CUCUMBERS; I ASK THEM WHAT THEY’VE GOT AND THEN WE’LL FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO WITH IT
— Chef Owen Kenworthy
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FARM-TO-TABLE
Perhaps the best example of farm to kitchen, though, is Tommy Banks, whose own life follows exactly this path. The North Yorkshire Banks family farm where Tommy started now supplies the family’s first restaurant, Oldstead pub The Black Swan, as well as his 2018 restaurant –both Michelin-starred – as well as a recent sister establishment, The Abbey Inn. Access to such produce is key to Tommy’s vision. “We try to pick as close to service as possible,” says Tommy. “It makes such a difference.”
While Tommy agrees with Owen’s attitude that you cook according to what’s available, it’s a little different, he explains, when you design your own growing plan, too. “We grow what we’d like to put on the menu and know when they should be ready… then you get a cold snap and your plans for peas and tomatoes get knocked back two weeks.”
In an interesting twist, Tommy also promotes local and unseasonal, by growing to preserve: at any of his establishments you’ll see remarkable jars of preserved fruit and vegetables and other ingredients, and these pickles, ferments, syrups and vinegars are weaved throughout the menu – even the drinks. “In the winter, we use a lot of preserved produce, so there’s a lot of big umami flavours running through the menu. In summer, though, it’s lighter, fresher, crunchier. In a way, we take something of a vegetarian approach to cooking, and adapt to seasonality.”
It’s clear that, whatever the season, UK produce, and the restaurants that champion that produce, is something we can, and should, shout about.
69
FINE DINING
Locally sourced: Farm to table at River Cottage (left and main); Tommy Banks’s The Abbey Inn is supplied by his family farm (top right); Seasonal fare at The Pelican (previous)
GOTHIC ROMANCE
Move over Paris. Scotland’s capital city is bringing romance to the fore with its sweeping architecture, gastronomic flare and luxury hotels with real pulling power
Edinburgh is known for its towering spires, historic charm, and cultural heritage but, in recent years, Scotland’s capital has been gaining serious momentum as a romantic destination — thanks, in no small part, to the sumptuously gothic boutique hotels that grace the city’s cobbled streets.
Prestonfield House and The Witchery — recently named Scotland’s most romantic hotel — are two such venues offering a unique blend of pitch perfect location, five-star service and amenities, and uniquely gothic décor that create the feel of a true historic hideaway for guests.
Established by the Scottish hotelier and restaurateur James Thomson, the sister properties are inspired by Edinburgh Old Town — and, in
particular, the area’s rich literary, artistic and dramatic heritage. The medieval Old Town — home to historic figures such as Alexander Graham Bell, Robert Louis Stevenson and artist Allan Ramsay — centres around Edinburgh Castle on Castle Rock and the Royal Mile — a delightful shopping district connecting the Castle to the Palace of Holyrood — and Princess Street Gardens.
James first established The Witchery by the Castle in 1979 at the age of 20, after renovating a series of run-down 16th-century tenement buildings. In 1989 he created The Secret Garden restaurant to help with growing demand, before adding five suites to create one of the Scotland’s ‘restaurants with rooms’. A decade later, The Tower
became Edinburgh’s first rooftop restaurant, reigning supreme for 22 years (it closed its doors in March 2020 with the Covid-19 pandemic).
The jewel in James’s crown, however, is surely Prestonfield House — the historic home built by Sir William Bruce, the King’s architect, after he completed Holyrood house in 1687 — which James first fell in love with when visiting at the age of five. He worked as a waiter there in his 20s, before fulfilling in 2003 a lifelong dream to own the impressive property. A multi-million-pound refurbishment brough the 333-year-old estate to its former glory, and added a touch of Witchery magic to the interiors, before he opened Prestonfield House (below) to the public.
TRAVEL
Five-star Prestonfield House has a magic all of its own. Despite being just a five-minute drive from the Old Town, this fine estate hotel emphasises privacy, exclusivity and theatre. And the attention to detail is present from the very second you enter the grounds; every moment is curated to delight the senses and emphasise the bucolic romance of your stay.
With a suite of historic public rooms available to dine or relax, guests can peruse the artwork, antiques and oddities at leisure — from afternoon tea in the 1687 Baroque Tapestry Room to a cocktail or two in the Leather Room or antler-adorned Whisky Room — or explore the 20 acres of gardens and parkland perfectly shielding you from the city beyond. There, you will find a Gothic Tea House hidden away in the Queen Elizabeth II rose gardens — or wander further afield to enjoy the wildlife that shares the park.
After your explorations, freshen up before dinner in one of the hotel’s 18 rooms and five suites, all individually decorated in James’s trademark sumptuous, opulent style. It’s fair to say that each suite takes maximalism to the extreme — dramatic, textured wallpapers in warm, rich colours enclose the space, while you’ll find no shortage of statement antiques and tactile fabrics and linens adorning each room. From the windows, views over Arthur’s Seat, Holyrood Park or the estate’s parkland will not disappoint. Suites named after famous visitors from Sir Winston Churchill and Benjamin Franklin to Allan Ramsay, give a sense of the estate’s true history.
In the kitchens, however, one can understand how the hotel is racing into the future with its take on true destination dining. Prestonfield offers a luxurious afternoon tea, sought-after private dining and more, but its true siren song comes from Rhubarb Restaurant. One of Edinburgh’s best restaurants by a Scottish mile, tasting menus are available with wine and whisky pairings — a rare treat, thanks to the truly impressive list of rare and aged drams.
Prestonfield was the first estate to propagate rhubarb in the 18th century, so it’s little wonder that the restaurant prides itself on locally sourced and seasonal produce in its exquisite menus. In spring, start with a celeriac and truffle velouté, smoked wood pigeon breast, or Belhaven brown crab, before digging in to a featherblade of Scotch beef en croûte or Alva Glen roe deer loin and haggis; fresh monk fish or pan-fried sea bream; or whole roast mallard. And, of course, the puddings. From Prestonfield apple tarte tatin, classic crème brulée, or a dark chocolate and bitter orange marmalade croissant pudding this is no place to deny your sweet tooth.
DINE BY CANDLELIGHT
If Prestonfield House takes the glamour and romance of Edinburgh’s grand history to new heights, its sister hotel — and James’s original restaurant with rooms — The Witchery is nothing short of spellbinding. Occupying Boswell Court, nestled close to the gates of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is credited as one of the businesses that has revitalised the Old Town since it was first launched on Halloween night in 1979. Taking pride in the district’s rich history, it is named for the hundreds of women and men charged as witches and burned at the stake on Castlehill during the 16th and 17th centuries — and infamously during James VI’s reign.
Enter the candlelit hotel through the doorway that merchant Thomas Lowthian would have used — still inscribed with his initials and the phrase: ‘O Lord in thee is all my traist’ — marvel at the gilded ceilings that echo Holyrood house and tapestry-hung walls. Painted doors and panels portray Edinburgh’s ancient wine trade with France — not only a glimpse into city history but a nod to the restaurant’s awardwinning wine cellar.
The centre of the Witchery is its restaurant, housed in the Original Dining Room. The historic space is painstakingly restored with added touches of the same opulent, gothic maximalism that delights the senses at Prestonfield. The menu is a true love letter to Scotland, showcasing the finest local ingredients from succulent Scottish lobster and langoustines to perfectly aged Angus beef steak tartare and Balmoral Estate pigeon, all presided over by chef Douglas Roberts’ uncompromising eye for detail and enjoyed in one of the country’s most novel and atmospheric locations.
Upstairs, nine lavish theatrical suites — decorated in rich baroque tones, antiques and gilded mirrors, draped beds and roll-top baths for two — await those looking to extend the trip through history, and indulge in all the unique gothic romance ‘Auld Reekie’ has to offer.
prestonfield.com; thewitchery.com
Spellbinding design: The Witchery’s famous Original Dining Room (right) and its maximalist Turret Room (above).
Previous: the grand exterior of Prestonfield House
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AND THEATRE
OPULENCE
Golden hour
Whether you’re an avid collector of rare malts, or simply partial to a dram of fine Scotch, whisky investment is a market trend that continues to grow. And with a spring of new launches and releases from impressive distilleries, these could be the perfect pour for your collection
Words: Tessa Crowley
World Whisky Day falls on 18 May this year, a prime excuse – if one were needed – to dust off your decanters and enjoy a tipple or two. To mark the occasion, and with a flurry of new releases this spring from acclaimed distilleries across Scotland and Ireland, these latest limited editions are sure to refresh or replenish your collection.
As the water of life grows in popularity and refinement, so too does its investment potential. Indeed, over the last decade, whisky value has risen by an incredible 582% (according to last year’s Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index) — in fact, in November 2023 a single bottle of 1926 Rare Macallan single malt sold at auction for $2.7m (£2.1m).
Here, we’ve selected five of the best newly available expressions, from a rare 46-year-old Talisker, to a 1997 Lagavulin — a golden year for the Isle of Islay distillery that we predict will uplift any whisky collection, whether one is looking to the future or enjoying the present. Whether served in simple decanters or bedazzled and bejewelled, each has a story to tell; looking back to whisky’s storied past, or ahead through innovation to the future.
THE DALMORE LUMINARY | ALNESS
The Dalmore’s cultural collaboration, The Dalmore Luminary, is an ongoing partnership in celebration of the arts, with V&A Dundee. For the second instalment, Melodie Leung, associate director of Zaha Hadid Architects, has partnered with the esteemed distillery to offer two new limited-edition whiskies.
The first, The Rare, will be auctioned by Sotheby’s in May, with proceeds supporting V&A Dundee. An exquisite glass amber display sculpture has been designed by Leung and her team for the occasion, of which only three will be made; two topped by a decanter housing a rare 49 Year Old Single Malt. Finished in 1963 Colheita Port, 30-year-old Apostoles sherry and select Bourbon, then completed in a unique 1951 virgin oak hybrid cask – air-dried and hand-toasted by The Dalmore’s master whisky maker Gregg Glass – the single malt is said to offer intense vanilla, patisserie and black fruit notes, alongside chestnuts and subtle smoke.
The Collectible, meanwhile, offers an exclusive one-of-a-kind whisky created for the occasion, including an exceptionally rare peated Dalmore expression lending a note of roasted chestnut to the already elegant house style. Available from April, the limited-edition will be priced from £275. »
thedalmore.com
PORT ELLEN GEMINI | ISLAY
A distillery of folkloric reputation, Port Ellen – which shuttered its doors over 40 years ago – reopens this spring. With expectations high, Port Ellen’s reimagining is a bold one; reborn as a modern distillery with an eye on the experimental.
To commemorate the occasion, the fabled distillery has released its oldest ever Single Malt Scotch; Port Ellen Gemini, a pair of whiskies drawn from three 1978 European oak casks. The 44-year-old elixir was selected and separated into two long ago. Half, dubbed The Remnant, has been housed in the original distillery’s historic remnant cask, which was recovered at its closure and since re-seasoned. Having touched some of Port Ellen’s most celebrated whiskies, The Gemini Remnant stands – alongside The Gemini Original – as a tribute to the distillery’s magnificent past, and a first peek into its exciting future.
Presented in two splendid crystal decanters, each featuring sections of the casks, and displayed within an unfolding mirrored case, Port Ellen Gemini is available now from £45,000.
diageo.com
THE MACALLAN HAS A REPUTATION FOR SUBVERTING EXPECTATIONS
THE MACALLAN HORIZON | SPEYSIDE
With a reputation for subverting expectations, The Macallan presents an irresistible excuse for celebration with its 200th anniversary. A Cirque du Soleil tasting experience recently unveiled for the occasion, at the idyllic distillery, is an immersive journey through the landscape.
The latest anniversary release is The Macallan Horizon (£40,000 RRP). Combining cars and whisky might be a surprising choice, but when the marque is Bentley Motors, it suddenly makes sense. Thinking beyond the constraints of tradition, the whisky takes inspiration from the automotive world; uniquely presented in a horizontal bottle, with a visually pleasing 180-degree twist detail.
Featuring whisky from six first-fill sherryseasoned oak casks, The Macallan Horizon’s encompassing case spotlights materials integral to one or both brands. Aromas of oak and leather echo the Bentley experience, while the innovative design speaks to the years of collaborative craftsmanship behind the limited-edition release.
themacallan.com
MIDLETON VERY RARE 40TH ANNIVERSARY RUBY EDITION | IRELAND
For connoisseurs of Irish whiskey’s creamy triple distillation, Midleton Very Rare stands out like a siren’s call. Created in 1984, nearly a decade after the distillery was founded, Midleton’s Very Rare stands as the pinnacle of Midleton – and, some might argue, Irish – whiskey.
Honouring the 40th Anniversary of Very Rare this year, the Ruby Edition combines three whiskeys, each crafted by one of Midleton’s three historic Master Distillers. Finished in a ruby port cask, a further nod to the milestone year, the blend features exceptional single pot still and grain whiskeys spanning four decades, the oldest dating back to the early 1980s.
Featuring classic Very Rare notes of orchard fruits, citrus and sweet vanilla, the port cask adds a unique layer of rich blackcurrant, raspberry and plum.
For collectors, a luxurious one-of-a-kind bottle is an alluring investment, covered in handcut rubies and hand engraved 18-carat gold. The remaining collection of Waterford crystal decanters are each priced at €20,000. Emblazoned with a four-point crystal, they come presented in a ruby case, and housed within a wooden cabinet.
midletonveryrare.com
5. PRIMA & ULTIMA | VARIOUS
For Scotch whisky lovers looking for a range of tipples to suit the mood or occasion, Prima & Ultima’s impressive selection is an attractive investment. Featuring eight rare and collectible vintage single malt Scotch whiskies, each tells a story of a beginning or an end and offers easy access to a library of some of Scotland’s best, curated by Diageo master blender Dr Emma Walker.
Among the collection are pioneering experiments and recovered liquids from ghost distilleries, such as the final American oak hogsheads from Brora (1977) and the reawakening Port Ellen (1978). Covering the landscape and evolution of Scotch whisky, the set also includes bottles taken from the last casks of Oban (1996), the oldest Talisker ever bottled at 46 Years Old, the forgotten last casks of The Singleton of Dufftown (1985), and an experimental Single Malt from Clynelish. Released in a limited edition of 413 sets, the collection is priced at £45,580.
diageorareandexceptional.com
WHISKY
Rhyme & rhythm
Grammy-nominated afrobeats star Davido shares the drive and determination that has seen him take the drum-driven music style to the global stage
Words: Michelle Johnson
When it comes to pioneering global musicians, afrobeats star Davido (left) is one to take note of. The Grammy-nominated and Mobowinning musician is widely regarded the most important artist in the afrobeats genre, credited with popularising the style on a global stage since his debut record, Omo Baba Olowo, launched in 2012. His fourth studio album Timeless, released last year — featuring big-name artists like British grime star Skepta and Beninese-French singer-songwriter Angelique Kidjo — fuses amapiano and konto (subgenres of house music) with reggae, dancehall and afropop. The ambitious record received rave reviews — not to mention a Grammy nomination — and broke streaming records for an African album.
Davido — the stage name of David Adedeji Adeleke — was born in Atlanta, Georgia, and raised in Lagos, Nigeria, before returning to the States to study business at university. His unique fusion of African musicianship and American production is just one of the secrets to his success — the rest is attitude.
Outside of music, the 31-year-old fatherof-six Davido cites his passions as family, culture and philanthropy. He established the David Adeleke Foundation in 2022 to support orphanages in Nigeria and across Africa. The stylish star is also global ambassador for sportswear brand Puma and luxury cognac brand Martell.
With the latter, Davido not only collaborated on their multi-national Blue Swift campaign but has even worked with the brand’s cellar master, Christophe Valtaud, to produce an exclusive limited-edition blend. The significance of this collaboration is clear: recently, Maison Martell announced its new Les Remarquables de Martel collection, which premiered with the release of the world’s most expensive rare cognac — presented in a damejeanne transformed into a remarkable objet d’art by French artist Laurentine Perilhou.
Here, Davido talks collaboration, how he defines success and performing at the iconic Madison Square Garden. »
MUSIC HAS THE ABILITY TO CROSS CULTURES, TO EDUCATE AND TO CONNECT
Davido, could you tell us what inspires you?
What drives me is a passion for making music, collaborating and performing that I’ve had since I was young. The ability to take the sounds, musical influences and culture that I grew up surrounded by, and bringing that to fans around the world, is something that inspires me on the daily.
Why do you think your music speaks to so many fans across different countries and musical genres?
First, I think good music is just good music; it’s universal. Whether it’s the lyrics, the beats or just the vibe, music has the ability to cross cultures, to educate and to connect. And I knew if people were exposed to and heard my music, and [that of] other African artists, they were going to fall in love them — and they have.
You’ve received multiple industry awards as well as Grammy and NAACP [National Association for the Advancement of Colored People] nominations, but how do you define success?
Success, to me, is about connecting with the fans. During Covid-19 we couldn’t tour, we couldn’t perform. So, I’ve spent the past year and a half traveling the world from Dubai to London, New York to Atlanta performing my Timeless Tour. And, yes, its humbling to receive awards and Grammy nominations but the greatest success to me is to be able to see the fans in arenas around the world, singing each word of my songs, dancing and having a good time.
In April, I will be performing at Madison Square Garden in New York City. This iconic venue has always been a goal of mine, and it will be a special night because New York was one of the first cities to catch on to Afrobeats, and I am so excited to be there and give them an incredible show.
How have you seen the music industry change since you first signed with Sony in 2016?
Man, the music industry has changed so
much. Ten years ago, there was no real social media, no Tik Tok — this year my ‘Unavailable’ dance challenge received over 100million video views, it went viral — when I started there was no “viral”. Now there are more ways to reach fans, to reach listeners other than radio, which, in my opinion, is a good thing for different types of music.
Also, when I started there were literally almost no Africans in the space. As you can imagine, I was the first to sign with a major label and it was a huge gamble [that] Sony made on myself and the industry — also a huge risk [that] I took [by] putting my career in their hands, as it was the first recording deal of this nature. But it truly paid off as it opened so many doors for so many others, and I’ve been able to achieve so much with them.
How important is your work as a producer, and having creative control?
I started out as a producer back in the day. I was always able to hear a beat or a hook and think: ‘No, that’s fire, that’s one, right’. The ability to not only write and record my music, but to also make changes to an already produced beat and take it to the next level is a gift that very few artists have. Bringing that experience into the studio has been incredibly helpful in my career. I don’t think it’s about having control; I think it’s about having a vision. That said, I love to collaborate and go into the studio with different artists and allow the creative process to just flow.
Could you tell us more about your partnership with Martell?
I’ve been an ambassador for Martell for three years now, and it’s been a real adventure so far. From becoming the face of the Blue Swift campaign in 2021 to releasing an Exclusive Blend, I’ve been uncovering so much about Martell and learnt more about our shared values and ambitions.
Fronting the Blue Swift campaign and taking it to Nigeria in 2021 was a special moment in my career, as it represented all that Martell and I have in common — being innovative and pushing boundaries. The
campaign was well-received in Nigeria, with an appreciation for the daring flavour profiles within the blend, and the combination of my style and the elegant spirit that Martell embodies. In the US the campaign was also a success, with fans embracing African music, I love that the campaign resonates with different audiences across the globe.
Within the music industry, I am proud of the role I play in bringing the Naija music scene to international prominence and have made it my passion project to generate cultural understanding among my fan-base. This partnership [with Martell] is all about paving the way for future leaders worldwide and shaking up tradition. It’s the energy that forms the foundations of our partnership.
Is there anything else outside of music that you’d love to explore?
I love music but for sure, of course, I would have loved to have been a footballer, what kid didn’t? And yes, there are so many passions I have outside of music — my family, my culture, philanthropy. This is something I learned that from my father: you must give back. I was proud that recently my foundation, The David Adeleke Foundation (DAF) committed an additional ₦ 300million (£148,000) to children’s orphanages across Nigeria, for the third consecutive year.
Your last album, Timeless, launched in 2023. How soon do you start working on new material?
I am already working on new music — in fact, my next album is almost ready. 2024 is [going to] be an even bigger run than 2023, so y’all get ready. From here? I mean the only way is up. Our music is already global, so I’d say it’s going to even bigger heights. Fresh collaborations, fresh awards, fresh charts achievements, bigger live performances and, most importantly, the ability to connect with more and more people and fans and bring them in to our world of African music. I am just getting started.
martell.com
80
SEIZE THE DAY
From nostalgic vibes to surprising health benefits, day raves — the hottest trend in going out — offer unique lifestyle experiences and are transforming clubland
Words: Lysanne Currie
In recent years, a surprising trend has taken the global party scene by storm: the day rave. Traditionally associated with the pulsating beats of electronic dance music (EDM) and vibrant, neonlit nights, raves have undergone a transformative shift, embracing the energy of daylight hours while still satisfying the entertainment needs of the original rave generation.
Starting mid-afternoon and finishing early evening, day raves offer an experience that distinguishes them from their nocturnal counterparts. As well as ticking the nostalgia box for ravers now in their 40s and 50s, daytime raves cater to a broader demographic, attracting partygoers who prefer a more inclusive and accessible
environment, allowing attendees to avoid late-night journeys – and still be home at a reasonable hour. There are even family raves such as The Playhouse Project, complete with activities for children and babies. This isn’t just about moving the party to the daytime – it’s an entire lifestyle. As a recent GQ article bemusedly reported, the kind of 6am alcohol-free raves organised by the Daybreaker collective can really set you up for the day ahead, with yoga, spoken-word poetry, light painting, haiku writing and healthy snacks. By aligning with the natural circadian rhythm, daytime clubbing also allows attendees to enjoy their nights without disrupting their sleep cycle. Essentially, it’s a profound rejection of the traditional nightclub culture,
with participants leaving venues feeling refreshed and energised.
Significantly, as the Guardian reported, the majority of these old-school events are now day raves, acknowledging that older clubbers are seeking a different vibe. And, despite initial scepticism, the concept is fast gaining in popularity, with the likes of Morning Gloryville, DnB Brunch and the UKG Brunch leading the way towards a literal, brighter dawn across a range of demographics.
Guilty Pleasures – the incredibly popular club night celebrating ‘uncool’ but beloved music – has also shimmied on board; their February daytime disco at the uber-cool Koko, Camden, went down so well they’re repeating it in May 2024. »
CULTURE
BEYOND VIP
Another such event, Day Fever, was founded by the frontman of 2000s dance band Reverend and the Makers Jon McClure, filmmaker Jonny Owen and actress Vicky McClure. The trio held their first afternoon clubbing event in Sheffield City Hall in December last year. The overwhelming success – tickets sold out in 48 hours –inspired them to take the concept on the road; and their event at Here, Charing Cross Road, was also a sell-out.
The team now plans to host monthly events in London and in cities across the UK – including Line of Duty star Vicky’s home city, Nottingham. As Jon says: “It’s beautiful to see women coming together, feeling safe. It’s a nicer atmosphere, and a lot of this is catered towards that.”
But this isn’t just a UK trend – the jet-set are showing a hunger for daytime partying, paying top dollar for luxury music festival experiences, such as Henley in the UK, and Coachella in the US, which boasts highpriced VIP packages.
These exclusive packages are taking the festival tradition far beyond glamping, with events such as Iceland’s midnight sun music and culture festival, Secret Solstice, offering a $1m package — the world’s most expensive festival ticket — for the 96 hours of sunlight.
In addition to the usual VIP treats like priority and backstage access, the ticket includes luxury spa access and personalised glam squad, private dining in unique locations, chartered helicopter tours over Iceland’s dramatic landscape and sledding across the Langjökull glacier in complimentary gear from 66North.
So, what’s behind all this? Inevitably, the Covid-19 pandemic may have had something to do with it. From sleep hygiene, early nights, fitness apps and trackers, health has been fetishised as never before, along with a more mindful approach to socialising.
And this swing from hedonism to health has been quietly (and soberly) reshaping the landscape of everything from clubbing to travel, with younger, high-profile HNWIs, such as Cara Delevingne and Gigi Hadid, shunning booze – the latter recently launched her Kin Euphorics non-alcohol drinks range – while simultaneously reaping the benefits of natural light, fresh air, and outdoor spaces.
Party time: VIP access to daytime festivals include Coachella (this page, ©Arthur Edelmans) and Download Madrid (previous)
OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS
From a business strategy viewpoint, there’s clearly bags of potential here, emphasising the health benefits, creating merchandise that reflects daytime clubbing culture, and collaborating with influencers, musicians, and brands that align with the daytime clubbing ethos.
And, in a broader way, the market is indeed paying attention. A notable player is Saudi Arabia, whose alcohol-free luxury resorts, and upscale restaurants serving mocktails reflect a broader effort by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman to make the kingdom more foreigner friendly while keeping the country’s culture intact. And that’s good timing, as the kingdom is projected to lead the Middle East in UHNW individual growth, with a 79% increase in millionaires by 2027.
Meanwhile, in Singapore and Hong Kong, Dry January has become a lasting trend, and the reduction in alcohol consumption, particularly among Gen-Z, has led to the emergence of luxury zero-alcohol drink pairings in numerous Michelin-starred restaurants.
So, in a world where wellness is increasingly taking centre stage, this move towards sober, pre-sunset socialising feels like an important paradigm shift. Along with crucial health benefits, daytime raving offers an escape from the daily grind – and all the global sociopolitical upheaval. But can it last?
Make ours a no-groni... and we’ll see you on the dancefloor as the rooster crows.
85
Maximum Impact
When it comes to travel trends, there’s nothing more appealing than discovering new destinations and untouched landscapes, but is there a way to achieve that while still being sustainable and responsible? These low-impact eco-camps might be the answer
Words: Shivani Dubey
When it comes to our dream destinations, it’s no secret that we are shaking off the classics — now heaving with tourists and cruise ships in the summer months — in favour of experiencing unique destinations and untouched scenery. But when sustainable and eco-friendly travel is, rightfully, at the forefront of our minds, how can we match this need for remarkable experiences with guilt-free holidaymaking?
Enter Henry Cookson.
The adventurer and expedition leaderturned-luxury travel expert has always had sustainability at the forefront of his endeavours. After noticing how human actions were affecting the indigenous environment and wildlife, he decided to start actively making sustainability and conservation projects an integral part of his clients’ adventures. He set up his company, Cookson Adventures, in 2009, specialising in wild adventures to far-flung locations.
Now, Henry has taken his sustainability efforts one step further with the introduction of the company’s eco camps. Designed to be set up in the most remote of locations without leaving any impact whatsoever, these leave-
no-trace camps ensure that guests experience these dramatic locations in a sustainable fashion, while enjoying special access to unique conservation experiences.
The eco-camps are carbon neutral, private and tailored to guests’ every need. They are designed to have minimal impact on the environment and often use biofuel cells and solar panels alongside a network of specialists — including scientists, marine biologists, conservations and more — to help achieve this. The key, says Henry, is that the camps cater to his billionaire guests’ dream activities — and the hard-to-reach destinations on his own inimitable radar, such as Socotra.
“Socotra’s been on my radar for over 13 years,” Henry says of the remote island, located 220 miles off mainland Yemen. “It was a destination that was right up at the top of the list of places I had to see… There’s the draw of its diverse terrain that includes dragon blood tree forests, ancient caves, wadis and white sand dunes and not to mention its unique culture, having been isolated from the world for so long.”
Henry finally made the journey in 2023, soon realising it was an ideal location for an eco-camp
that worked with the terrain. “I feel strongly that there is a magic and energy in Socotra unlike anywhere else in the world. There is a deep authenticity in the culture and the people and for me that was the surprise,” he says.
“Initially, I was more intrigued and interested in the endemic wildlife and the terrain, the otherworldly landscapes that are unlike anywhere else on this planet, yet it was the people we met, their deep passion for their rich culture, their openness and their generous hospitality which blew me away and won the prize for what is already an unbeatable travel experience”.
Alongside Socotra, the brand has also launched camp-based adventures in remote idylls including Antarctica, Africa, Iceland, Greenland and Utah. Their latest expedition? The tantalisingly unexplored island of New Britain in Papua New Guinea.
There, guests can explore the coastline on a yachting expedition, check out shipwrecks from a state-of-the-art submersible around the Duke of York islands, and learn from local tribes in the island’s most remote corners before venturing inland to sleep on the precipice of an enormous sinkhole in a custom-built tented camp.
Impact-free adventure:
Camp in the world’s most dramatic landscapes, including Iceland (previous) and Socotra (this page),
PRESERVING NATURE
If conservation is a cause that guests care deeply about, then Papua New Guinea offers even more reason to visit. Cookson’s expeditions allow guests to shadow a team of world-leading UNESCO scientists and expedition specialists looking to improve first-hand knowledge of this biodiverse ecosystem.
“The research from this expedition will be hoping its findings will help to support a crucial UNESCO World Heritage application for the [country’s] Nakanai Mountains and will have farreaching implications for the future preservation of this region,” says Henry.
Cookson’s next expedition will see conservation-based research methods including DNA barcoding, exploring undocumented cave systems, establishing monitor plots and more be put into place to help establish and support the protection of the region’s rich cultural and ecological heritage — all while making sure travellers have a peak luxury experience, with opportunities to learn from academic experts and wonder at the natural nocturnal wildlife from the
comfort of their camps.
“To be totally immersed into the destination, we can design and build a custom camp, perched over the 1,000ft deep Naré sinkhole, with some creature comforts included such as a private chef,” says Henry.
Beyond conservation expeditions, guests can also embark on jungle treks, climb ancient trees and go river rafting on the white-water rapids. For those who thrive on adrenaline fuelled adventures, there will be opportunities to rappel out of a helicopter and explore the unexplored parts of the island, as well as bespoke dining experiences on the slopes of Mount Ulawun.
Meanwhile, if you prefer a glacial wilderness adventure in 2024, Henry’s top travel tip is Greenland. “Following on from our world-first floating aurora dome camp in Iceland this year, we are looking to build a solar powered adventure camp on one of Greenland’s remote fjords,” says Henry. “This unique position will give guests incredible views over the ice-capped mountains and unbeatable access to the wildlife and experiences, all in complete privacy.
“From heli-skiing and snowmobiling to spotting polar bears, lumbering muskoxen and narwhals, there is a plethora of once-in-a-lifetime adventures we can create round the interests of each group.”
Solar physicists also predict 2024 to be the best year for the next decade to see the Northern Lights. “This means the aurora is set to be at its most active this year and can offer up some spectacular displays at night,” adds Henry. “As guests will be miles from any light pollution, it will be an incredible location in which to witness them.”
Whether your dream adventure is getting up close and personal with the Aurora Borealis in Iceland, exploring the dramatic, untouched landscapes of Socotra, or immersing yourself in the natural biodiversity of Papua New Guinea, these expeditions ensure sustainable travel without compromising on luxury. So, while the camps themselves leave zero trace, you can be sure that your travel is making a big impact.
cooksonadventures.com
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TRAVEL
These ideas barely scrape the surface; everyone wants a Beautiful Adventure, let us help you design yours.
STEPPES TO ADVENTURE
Steppes Travel’s experts share their framework for living a life well travelled
THE SAFARI
A safari is a journey, a journey that offers a glimpse into life and its intricate web. Every creature plays a vital role. And us? We’re just one small part of a much grander design. A player in a team. An instrument in an orchestra. Discover the symphony of raw wilderness and untamed beauty. Discover wildlife and movement in the depths of faraway lands. Discover an unspoken language, a rhythm that beats in harmony with the rustle of leaves and the call of distant birds. Safaris give us a deep appreciation for balance.
THE ROAD TRIP
Voted a Conde Nast Top Five Specialist Tour Operator 2023, Steppes Travel have been creating Beautiful Adventures and Remarkable Holidays for more than 30 years. Speak to our experts today to start your journey.
steppestravel.com
+44 (0) 1285402195
enquiries@ steppestravel.com
Road trips aren’t just journeys; they’re odysseys that awaken the explorer within us. They present the freedom to abandon comfort zones and to discover the world in a way that no other mode of travel allows as every mile unveils a new story. Succumb to strange. Surrender to spontaneity. Savour the deliciousness of the journey itself. In a world bound by routines and schedules, remember that the best moments are found ‘up the road’ where the marvels of the world await.
THE VOYAGE
A voyage isn’t merely a holiday; it’s a gateway to and an exploration of the world’s most enchanting destinations, wrapped in the luxurious embrace of a floating paradise. Pristine Caribbean beaches, impressive Norwegian fjords, Antarctic peninsulas, every port of call is a new chapter in your story. Wake up to new sights every day. Watch the sunset over an endless expanse of water. Feel a gentle salty breeze caress your skin like a sigh of relief.
THE CULTURAL HOLIDAY
Open doors to a world of wonder. Go beyond the typical tourist attractions and delve into the heart of a destination. Untangle the threads of history, art and tradition.
Next time you sit in a coffee shop, bar or restaurant – indeed anywhere people meet and talk – listen. Eavesdrop a little. You’ll discover something: travel tales and holiday stories flow like water, meandering their way into conversations, ebbing and flowing into our conscious and unconscious desires and dreams.
As people, we seem to have an inherent fascination with travel and exploration. We’re drawn to the well-travelled, creating heroes, revered as much for their adventure as for their experience, insight, humour and understanding.
Below are 10 ideas carefully curated in the knowledge that, if you took a trip like each of the ones below, you’d live a life like no other. That’s where we find our muse. We hope you find yours.
Unravel what it means to be human. Enrich your soul and broaden your mind. Engage with local communities, sample authentic cuisine and discover a new appreciation of different ways of life. Find moments and hear stories that will leave you feeling transformed, gaining a perspective that will transcend borders and stereotypes.
THE TREK
Mountains offer solace for weary minds. Deserts allow you to breathe for what feels like the first time. Jungles ignite the soul. Trekking gets you there. Discover landscapes that revitalise your senses. In those unexplored trails, you’ll find more than just breath-taking vistas; you’ll discover new strength in the present. Trekking through the wilderness is not only an adventure, but a transformative experience that will inspire you to reach new heights. To go further. To see more.
SPACE TRAVEL
Lose yourself in the vast. Savour the unparalleled magnificence of plains, of deserts and prairies. Feel small, taste freedom and welcome new energy. Experience rare tranquillity. Allow far horizons to create a feeling of infinite space; space liberates your mind from the constraints of everyday concerns. The space to breathe deep and centre yourself; to observe the dancing of wildflowers in the wind, the flight of noble birds and watch play of light and shadow as the sun sets.
THE EDGE OF WONDER
The path less travelled. A cliché for some, a magnetic force for others, drawing adventurous souls into the unknown. Its promise of excitement, discovery and endless possibilities, unmarked by footsteps but signposted unspoken stories and whispers of the wild. Our universal human spirit craves that thrill of the unknown, to
stand at the edge of wonder, yet few truly get to experience it. To discover the forgotten magic of existence and allow their curiosity to reign, where the journey of exploration is as transformative as the destination itself.
THE TRAIN JOURNEY
To travel by train is to travel through the soul of a landscape, where history, culture and breath-taking countries seamlessly converge. The brilliance of a rail journey lies not in the convenience of reaching your destination, but in the immersive journey itself. The world races forward, train travel brings you back. It encourages you to pause, to breathe and to witness the world passing by. It’s a reminder that we only get to be here once and, in those stolen moments at the window, you’ll relax, stop, rekindle and rejuvenate.
THE FAMILY HOLIDAY
Nothing creates memories like a family holiday. In the fast-paced world we live in, moments of genuine, uninterrupted togetherness can be rare. Family time reconnects, rejuvenates and offers a tonic for the soul. Family holidays are more than just trips, they’re investments in emotional wealth. They’re stories shared around the dinner table and photographs framed on the wall with laughter, adventure and shared experiences forever forged in collective hearts.
THE GRAND TOUR
A Grand Tour. A Great Escape. A sanctuary from daily life, enchanting lands with captivating stories that will sweep you off your feet. Experience a new palette of flavours, a new spectrum of colours. Explore every market, admire every artwork, taste every wine. Connect to the world’s immeasurable heritage. Find your passions and purpose and discover the glory of being different. The glory of being yourself.
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PARTNER FEATURE
SPA HORIZONS
As the longevity trend infuses the worlds of beauty and wellness, Tempus checks out the UK spas offering far more than a massage
With longevity coming to the fore as the wellbeing buzzword of the moment, modern spas must offer far more than just an indulgent massage or soothing facial to stand out from the crowd. Now, mind, body and spirit must be considered alongside restorative treatments, reenergising products and regenerative programmes to capitalise on feel good — and look good — results.
So, what should we expect from our new wellness regime? These sensational spas and clinics may have the answer. From ancient Greek inspiration to high-tech massages and — crucially — highly personalised and individualised wellness plans to meet all your health, beauty or vitality goals, explore our pick of the remarkable spas redefining holistic happiness.
THE HVN | SENSATIONAL SELF-CARE
The HVN (pronounced ‘haven’) in Knightsbridge is the first sanctuary of its kind in the UK, bringing future-facing, evidence-based wellness technology that dares to ask: what if we were the architects of our own wellbeing?
With detailed personalised plans and consultations with inhouse doctors, practitioners and experts, HVN aims to curate a oneof-a-kind spa experience curated to your needs. From hydro-bed massage (a British first) and Fotona non-surgical laser treatments, to fusing ancient therapies with modern sciences in a range of indulgent yet effective products, HVN offers unique treatments that focus on supporting a range of issues from hormonal imbalance to body posture and hair loss. HVN is, no pun intended, a haven for personalised wellness, curated to cultivate the most important relationship in our lives — our relationship with ourselves. »
the-hvn.com
WELLNESS
GALEN | PHILOSOPHY OF BALANCE
Head to Marylebone to discover a luxurious new centre off Harley Street, a haven of contemporary calm in a Grade II-listed Georgian townhouse. While many spas and clinics offer a holistic approach, Galen (right) is setting a new standard. Whether seeking to preserve vitality, age-proof and energise skin and body, reinforce the mind or target specific aches and pains, Galen has a range of options from classic facials to surgical solutions — as well as programmes geared towards improving mental health, such as meditation, hypnotherapy and psychotherapy-based NLP.
The centre is named for the prominent ancient Greek physician, surgeon, and philosopher Claudius Galenus, whose focus on equilibrium in healing was influential for centuries and underpins what this namesake clinic stands for today. Blending contemporary medicine with ancient philosophies of balance and harmony, the addition of new scientific diagnostic tools also allows for comprehensive assessments. With renewed attention on self-healing, backed by scientific progress and a deep understanding of our bodies, Galen’s individualised treatment plans promise a happier, healthier whole.
galenhealth.co.uk
WILDSMITH SKIN | BOTANICAL BRILLIANCE
Get ready to take natural wellness to a new extreme with Wildsmith Skin, whose philosophy is inspired by the great outdoors — and, more specifically, its namesake 19th-century horticulturalist William Walker Wildsmith.
Wildsmith’s The Bothy spa at Hampshire’s Heckfield Estate offers a range of treatments designed to support recovery, repair and balance — each inspired by the principles of the body’s circadian rhythm.
Perhaps the most impressive treatment is its pioneering Radical Botany Facial — a specially curated facial incorporating guided breathwork, gentle cleanse and exfoliation, myofascial release, acupressure, and a personally curated range of clinically proven skincare products. The key to the facial’s efficacy is moisture: Wildsmith’s research says that improvements in skin moisture measures 171% instantly, increasing to up to 194% after 24 hours, while skin smoothness instantly increases by up to 54%, rising to 65% after 48 hours.
Londoners can also experience this unique facial at The Wildsmith House (left) from June, an immersive treatment space in Liberty London featuring a tranquil woodland setting transplanted from Heckfield — including descendants of the original specimen trees planted by William in the 1860s — where guests can also get a first look at the new Wildsmith Skin product range, to keep that in-spa glow at home.
wildsmithskin.com
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SURRENNE | LUXURY LONGEVITY
Stepping straight into the next gen of wellbeing, luxury hospitality group Maybourne — the force behind iconic London institutions Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley — has announced the launch of Surrenne (this page) in Knightsbridge. Described as a wellbeing and longevity member’s club, the concept, which is set to open in April alongside the group’s new London hotel, The Emory, goes beyond the traditional spa offering, taking an all-round approach to wellbeing, working alongside sector leaders to introduce holistic and cutting-edge treatments, all sciencebacked and evidence-based.
Set over four floors and across nearly 2,000 sqm, the space is home to a gym, 22m swimming pool with sound system for in-water meditation, and a global first longevity clinic in partnership with Virtusan — whose scientific advisory board includes the industry expertise of neurobiology and ophthalmology expert Dr Andrew Huberman, biologist and academic Dr David Sinclair and clinical psychologist Dr Shauna Shapiro — offering members diagnostics and bespoke programmes to ensure optimal performance and wellbeing. The club is also home to the UK’s first studio from A-list fitness expert Tracy Anderson, medical-grade skincare by leading surgeon and skin expert Dr Lara Devgan, and a menu devised by nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson at the Surrenne Café.
surrenne.com
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WELLNESS
WHAT DREAMS MAY COME
Sleep expert Malminder Gill
shares the secrets behind catching forty winks — and the restorative power of a great night’s sleep
Words: Stephanie Gavan
Despite spending almost a third of our lives asleep, the formula to decent rest remains a mystery to many.
Studies have shown that quality shut-eye helps regulate our hormones, improves our mental health, and can even add years to our life. No wonder, then, that health-conscious travellers are increasingly hitting snooze on jam-packed itineraries and stress-inducing schedules in favour of pillow menus, blackout blinds and prioritising their precious forty winks.
Bucking the trend for sleep tourism are Mandarin Oriental hotels, which recently announced an exclusive partnership with Malminder Gill, the award-winning integrative hypnotherapist and sleep expert whose Harley Street practice has become a go-to spot for royalty and Hollywood stars looking to up their hay-hitting game.
“I’ve been a practising hypnotherapist for over a decade,” Malminder tells Tempus. “Treating ultra-high-net-worth individuals in
London and across the globe with a multitude of issues, from anxiety and stress to general sleep concerns.”
Acting as the group’s in-house sleep concierge, Malminder will work across its Knightsbridge and Mayfair hotels – with additional monthly pop-ups in selected European properties – offering guests tailored 60-minute sessions conducted in spa or suite.
“My sessions begin with a consultation, then I set up completely bespoke programmes that usually include hypnotherapy,” she explains – adding that a hotel makes an ideal setting for this. Scientists have long observed a phenomenon wherein even the most heavyeyed among us find it difficult to drop out when spending the night in a new environment. “We call this this ‘first night effect’ and it’s about being in unfamiliar surroundings – a different bed, the weight of a duvet – so it’s great to be able to offer a solution for guests.”
Sleep is deeply personal and differs greatly
from one person to the next. While Napoleon and Margaret Thatcher could famously get by on just four hours a night, Albert Einstein was known to stick to an indulgent 10-hours-plusnaps schedule. So what, exactly, makes for healthy sleep, and how can we define it?
According to Malminder, “a state of sound sleep encompasses each phase of the sleep cycle; wake, N1, N2, N3 and REM.” In the initial phase, N1, our muscles relax and breathing slows as we begin to fall asleep. N2 could be considered ‘light sleeping’, while N3 refers to our deepest sleep state, during which the body experiences tissue repair and growth. Here, Malminder is quick to point out that: “although deep sleep is frequently mistaken for the only form of sleep that is beneficial, all stages of sleep contribute significantly to recovery and rest.” Only after these three stages do we enter rapid eye movement sleep (REM), the sought-after sweet spot where dreaming generally occurs. »
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Forty winks: Malminder Gill provides in-house sleep consultancy to Mandarin Oriental guests, including Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London (pictured)
Though if you’ve ever returned from a trip exhausted, you wouldn’t be the first. Travel has long been associated with forgoing sleep in favour of more adventurous, out-of-the-ordinary pursuits. But the booming wellness market, and the growing appetite among luxury travellers for holistic pursuits outside the spa, shows a marked shift in our priorities – a trend Malminder’s own practice reflects. This year alone she’s seen a 30% increase in clients seeking help with sleeprelated issues. So, it’s safe to say that restorative experiences are on the rise – but why?
“Due to the Covid-19 pandemic and the increasing popularity of sleep trackers, there has been a wider focus on health,” Malminder speculates. “As a result, more individuals are now prioritising their mental health and sleep.”
For business leaders and those who find themselves frequently navigating high-pressure environments, the pursuit of quality sleep can be particularly fraught. “Stress can prevent you from falling asleep, and might mean the little sleep that you do get is inadequate,” says Malminder, citing high levels of the stress hormone cortisol as the main culprit. Though it’s not the only reason one might find themselves tossing and turning. “Unacknowledged contributors to inadequate sleep quality also include excessive preoccupation with thoughts, exerting excessive effort to fall asleep, and the self-deprecating statement: ‘I have always had trouble sleeping...’”
Turns out, the self-fulfilling narratives we tell ourselves about the nature of our nocturnal habits can be just as significant in the search for good sleep as avoiding stress and screens. Which is precisely where hypnotherapy comes in. “Hypnosis facilitates profound relaxation and mitigates tension, both of which are essential elements in fostering restorative sleep,” Malminder tells us, “when I see my clients for hypnotherapy, I would say almost all of the time, they fall asleep at some point.”
The world can be a chaotic and consuming place, and with a glut of distractions available on demand, journeying to the land of nod can feel like a quest of Tolkien-esque proportions. “If you have ‘tried everything’ it can be useful to explore overthinking patterns and extended sleep routines,” she advises. Better still, take Malminder’s advice and swap counting sheep for a good night’s sleep – luxury linens and all.
mandarinoriental.com
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HYPNOSIS FACILITATES PROFOUND RELAXATION AND MITIGATES TENSION, BOTH OF WHICH ARE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS IN FOSTERING RESTORATIVE SLEEP
— Malminder Gill
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CONTINENTAL SHIFT
The African continent is undergoing a dramatic renaissance, offering opportunities in agriculture, fintech, AI and green energy. When allied to its rapidly expanding, young and digitally savvy population, the investment opportunities may be too big to ignore
Words: Lysanne Currie
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If French philosopher Auguste Comte was right in his belief that “demography is destiny” then the unprecedented population growth – or ‘youthquake’ – erupting across Africa gives every sign auspicious times could lie ahead for the continent, which could augur well for long-term-minded investors.
Over the next 25 years Africa’s population is on track to double to 2.5bn: by 2050, one in four people will be African. At a time when many European, North American and Asian nations are grappling with falling birthrates and ageing citizens, the median age in Africa is just 19, meaning that within the next decade it will have the world’s largest workforce.
Where will these young adults be working and setting up businesses? Agriculture might seem like a strong bet: Africa has more than 60% of the world’s unused farmland, which could provide a ‘breadbasket’ not only for the continent but also for the rest of the world. And the investment opportunities could be enormous, as Akinwumi Adesina, head of the African Development Bank, recently pointed out: “…what Africa then does with agriculture and how we all invest in agriculture will determine the future of food in the world.”
Marcia Ashong, founder and CEO of The
Boardroom Africa business network shares Akinwumi’s optimism.
“If you think about the role Africa will play in the coming decades, it has one of the youngest populations in the world plus growing agriculture and tech industries,” she says. “All the natural resources – oil, gas, energy, you name it –are here. This continent is ripe for growth.”
Fintech investors may also wish to look at the digital revolution transforming the continent. Smartphone penetration is huge: sub-Saharan Africa is predicted to have 1.1m mobile subscriptions by 2029 (67% of which will be smartphones) according to a 2023 Ericsson report. Today, many Africans access digital payments and e-health on their mobiles. Adesina estimates that as much as 70% of the world’s digital payments are made in Africa.
Artificial intelligence (AI) could be another game-changer. Last year saw Africa and the Middle East spend $3bn on AI – the fastest growth of any global region. In January, Microsoft signed a 10-year deal with Vodafone, a strategic partnership to help the telecoms giant use generative AI to develop new solutions for more than 300million businesses and consumers across Africa and Europe. Google, meanwhile, has opened an AI research
centre in Accra, which since 2019 has been working on pioneering projects such as AIpowered aerial vehicles to help Ghanaian farmers collect data from crops and detect potentially damaging diseases.
With the race to hit net-zero targets by switching to electric vehicles, manufacturers in the US, Europe and Asia will probably look to Africa, which contains most of the raw metals and minerals needed to build them: the continent is home to 70% of the world’s cobalt while South Africa alone holds around 80% of the planet’s platinum.
However, an estimated 600m African citizens still lack access to electricity. Green energy solutions (rather than fossil fuels) will be key to delivering this — yet, the continent receives only a meagre 2% of global investment in renewable energies. Solar power, then, is another area ripe for foreign investment: Africa has 60% of the world’s solar, generating about $24bn (£18bn) a year according to a recent Kleos Advisory report.
“If you’re an investor and you’re not thinking about Africa, then that’s at your own risk because this is where the growth is,” summarises Marcia.
“Right now, if you’re ignoring or undermining Africa, you’re doing so at your peril.”
101 WEALTH
Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the European Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms. Priced at £420 each (inc. UK sales tax). Private commissions are also welcome.
@pullmaneditionsposters
All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions 2024
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View and buy online at www.pullmaneditions.com
RE :VIEW
Celebrity photographer Andy Gotts chats about his silverscreen exhibition And the Winner is…
PLUS+
• Ascot’s creative director Daniel Fletcher talks racing style
• Somerset House prepares for a dazzling summer season
• RHS Chelsea Flower Show is back in bloom
• Save the Date: your luxury events calendar
EXHIBITION | ANDY GOTTS
And the Winner is…
Celebrity photographer Andy Gotts shares the secrets of his star-studded exhibition at 45 Park Lane
They say every photo tells a story. That is certainly true in the case of celebrity photographer Andy Gotts. Over a 30-year career Andy has photographed a galaxy of stars, from Robert De Niro to Meryl Streep to Sirs Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart. We caught up with Andy at 45 Park Lane, where his latest exhibition, And the Winner is…., adorns the walls of the London hotel’s glamorous bar. Here, Andy walks us through the most cherished portraits of his career, reveals the secret behind a good picture – and why he is always armed with a crude joke.
Andy, what inspired this exhibition? I’ve been a photographer for celebrities for 34 years — and I’m a movie buff. So, when you shoot people like Robert De Niro, Al Pacino, Ian McKellen or Anthony Hopkins, having them in one show by one artist is quite rare. These pictures are chosen because they are people that I became friends with, or pictures that I feel are timeless for me. They are my icons.
You chose to exhibit at 45 Park Lane rather than a gallery. Why? I’ve wanted to do exhibitions in [London] for a long time. I have done proper exhibition galleries that promote my work [but] they’re big and clinical — it’s very formal. I think it’s better when my work is displayed in an environment that’s more friendly, where you can sit and have a drink. This kind of environment is more relaxed, because as you sit here having a conversation, your eyes wander. I wanted it to be an immersive experience rather than a clinical, formal thing.
How do you capture such unique sides of well-known figures? When you photograph famous people, they are automatically programmed [to] know their angles, they know how to look good, and they come to every photoshoot wanting to pull those faces — it’s my job to make them not do that. But I try not to direct them. I don’t say, ‘Be funny, be happy’, or anything like that. We have a conversation while I’m behind the camera and then something clicks.
What would you say is the secret to a great portrait?
My shoots are not a formal affair. I think for a good shot you need to be armed with three things: a crude joke, alcohol (everyone loves a glass of champagne) and quickness. I can craft a moment with conversation, to make them have a feeling. For example, there’s a picture of [All of Us Strangers star] Andrew Scott. I asked him if he can cry on cue; he said, ‘Of course I can’. The resulting picture was with a tear down his cheek. There are things you can’t pre-plan or direct, it just happens in the moment.
Is there one particular portrait that holds special meaning for you?
My portrait of Tony Curtis. To me, he is one of the biggest movie stars of all time. I had been trying to shoot a portrait of him for nine years [before his wife, Jill Vandenberg Curtis, asked Tony] and told me to come to their house in Vegas the next day. That evening, I got a call from Tony himself, saying he didn’t feel well but would commit to a photoshoot the next day as promised — but he had one request: “Can you make me look like an icon just one more time?”
[During the shoot] we ended up talking for hours, and I listened to his stories about the Rat Pack, the mafia in Hollywood, Elvis and so much more. The next day, Jill [asked] if I’d send over the photo. Tony thought that was the best picture of him ever taken. He died that afternoon.
Tell us about your portrait of Robert De Niro?
That’s a lovely picture. I asked Robert, “Do you ever get upset when people do that impression of you from Taxi Driver?”. He turned to me and said, “Have you seen Pacino do that impression of me?”. So, that shot is Robert De Niro doing an impression of Al Pacino doing an impression of De Niro. I love that photo because you never see him be silly like that.
And finally, why was your portrait of Meryl Streep so unique? [Meryl] was doing press for The Iron Lady. I wanted it to look different from all the other pictures of her, but her makeup artist said I’d have to change [the lighting] or they wouldn’t go through with it. I took some pictures with the basic lighting, but I knew the pictures all looked the same. So, [when the makeup artist] left the room, I changed the lighting. Meryl started clapping, saying: “Good for you!”. When I sent her the pictures later, the ones taken with my lighting were her favourites. In the picture, she’s got this little smile because she knows I’ve been naughty and is joining in the fun.
45 Park Lane, London. Until 19 May dorchestercollection.com
Interview: Shivani Dubey
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Famous faces: Andy Gotts' portraits include actors Sir Ian McKellen, Sir Patrick Stewart (this page) and Meryl Streep (previous)
Fashion designer Daniel Fletcher drives Ascot’s new racing style
There’s no event of the UK season quite like Royal Ascot. Not only does this equestrian meet host some of the best horseracing in the world, it also showcase some of the most refined fashion.
Elevating things even further, for the first time in more than 300 years Ascot has appointed its very own creative director. British fashion designer Daniel Fletcher has been entrusted with the mammoth task of not only shaping Royal Ascot’s official style direction, but also bringing a new contemporary flair to the event, all while ensuring that its long and rich heritage is properly celebrated.
Daniel will be behind this year’s annual Lookbook and Millinery Collective, both of which have become a source of inspiration for racegoers looking to curate the perfect outfit. Poised to take this challenge head on, Daniel plans to capture the essence of the “signature elegance and rich history of Royal Ascot fashion” while also applying his own signature aesthetic to his new role.
“Luxury, for me, is all about quality and craft, which elevates a look and adds a touch of glamour. From Missoni intarsia knit dresses to intricate pleating from Zimmermann, and exquisite draping from Marc Jacobs, each has been personally chosen for their high-fashion credentials,” Daniel tells Tempus.
The fashion designer also has some tips for fashionistas hoping to be first past the post in the style stakes, and hopes to encourage racegoers “to embrace their own unique style and creativity”.
“Whether that be styling with accessories playfully – with a fascinatingly shaped hat, or pairing a dress with a tie, or starting with a neutral base that acts like a blank canvas which in its simplest form is timeless, sophisticated, and effortless,” he says. “Be it maximalist or minimalist, it’s the essence of total freedom of expression I want racegoers to embrace.”
Ascot Racecourse, Berkshire. 18-22 June 2024. ascot.com
EVENT | ROYAL ASCOT
London in bloom at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show
The world’s greatest flower show returns to Royal Hospital Chelsea with a horticultural programme to delight the green-fingered and urban-minded alike. Visit the showstopping architectural show gardens along Main Avenue, explore different horticultural themes through the Sanctuary and Feature Gardens areas, learn all about planting your own pocket of paradise in the Floral Marquee and be inspired to make the most of even the smallest urban patch with Balcony and Container Gardens. With growers and experts in attendance to answer all your gardening questions plus famous faces such as multi-gold-medal winner Kazuyuki Ishihara and design superstar Holly Johnston bringing the wow factor with their show gardens, this year’s show is sure to leave you green with envy.
Royal Hospital Chelsea, London. 21-25 May 2024 rhs.org.uk
LMUSIC | SOMERSET HOUSE
The summer season begins at Somerset House
ondon’s most elegant inner-city stately courtyard is bringing music-lovers the sound of the summer, with the launch of tickets for the 2024 Somerset House Summer Series with American Express. The series opens on a high note with R&B rising star Pip Millett, while double-Grammy and double-Mobo winning Corinne Bailey Rae returns for a live performance of her acclaimed album Black Rainbows. The allstar line-up also features award-winning jazz and soul star Cory Henry, US hip-hop star Smino, Polish pianist Hania Rani, and bands The Amazons and The Big Moon. Make sure you stick around to the end – none other than punk poet laureate and living legend Patti Smith, with her backing band Patti Smith Quartet, closes out the series in rock ’n’ roll style.
Somerset House, Strand, London. 11 – 21 July 2024 somersethouse.org.uk
107 RE:VIEW EVENT | CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW
WORDS: SHIVANI DUBEY. IMAGES: ANDY GOTTS/DORCHESTER COLLECTION; ROYAL ASCOT; RHS; SOMERSET HOUSE
Your luxury events calendar for this season
ART BASEL HONG KONG – 28-30 MAR
Art Basel returns to Hong Kong to spotlight the best galleries across Asia. The celebration of Asia-Pacific’s artistic diversity includes the Discoveries sector showcasing emerging artists, and Encounters, for large-scale works that transcend conventional gallery space. artbasel.com
CANNES FILM FESTIVAL – 14-25 May
Expect the biggest stars of the silver screen on La Croisette as the directors of the world premiere their most exciting new films at the 77th Festival de Cannes. Barbie director Greta Gerwig serves as jury president for this year’s celebration of international cinema. festival-cannes.com
WATCHES & WONDERS – 13-15 APR
Geneva hosts the world’s most important watch fair, as brands from Audemars Piguet and Rolex to Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels wow timepiece collectors with their most innovative novelties. Expect star guests, expert debate and out-of-this-world reveals. watchesandwonders.com
THE FRENCH OPEN – 20 May-9 Jun
France’s major tennis tournament returns as the sport’s top men and women – from Novak Djokovic to Katie Boulter – battle for domination. With the competition just months before the Olympic Games Paris, the world will no doubt be watching Roland-Garros. rolandgarros.com
While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information.
THE MET GALA – 6 May
This year’s Met Gala’s high-fashion theme is Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion. With a core exhibition spanning 400-years of style history. Anna Wintour’s New York fundraising gala will be co-chaired by Zendaya, Jennifer Lopez, Chris Hemsworth and Bad Bunny. metmuseum.org
24 - 26 May
MONACO GRAND PRIX – 24-26 May
Monte-Carlo is transformed once again into the world’s most glamorous racetrack, as Formula 1 comes to the streets of MonteCarlo. And with intrigue mounting behind the scenes, will favourite Max Verstappen take poll position for Red Bull Racing? f1.com
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JACKET REQUIRED
Tempus style columnist
Rikesh Chauhan on this season’s style staple: the spring jacket
Ajacket will make or break an outfit. Don’t just take my word for it; ask everyone on social media when event season rolls around. For every immaculately dressed Jason Momoa being praised for his style choices, there are also dozens of others being shamed for their style crimes. Granted, Momoa is well known to have his jackets made bespoke by Henry Poole – because if you were built like a truck, it’s probably the way to go. But this year’s Oscars red carpet saw a similarly fortress-like Dwayne Johnson (aka The Rock) and many others of less imposing shapes and sizes, showcase just how unflattering a jacket can be if it doesn’t fit correctly.
Now, that’s not to say that everyone necessarily needs a bespoke wardrobe, but, as these two giants of the big screen prove, a little research goes a long way.
Black Havana Blazer by Suit Supply
Black is the new black with this elegant relaxed fit. Unlined and tailored slim, it works as part of a suit or to lift a casual look for seriously effortless Havana style.
suitsupply.com
When it comes to quality tailoring, there’s no need to look anywhere else but Suit Supply. Well-researched and responsibly sourced cloths, great silhouettes and the ability to make in-store alterations make this brand a no-brainer. My pick of the new collection is the Black Havana Blazer. Firstly, after several seasons of a dizzying array of hues1, it’s time to bring back the black jacket. When the silhouette is either soft or unstructured, it becomes surprisingly casual and versatile. This pick is a great example of that, given the shape which fits true to size, and the ability to wear it formally with a shirt, tie and trousers when the occasion demands, or simply dress it down with jeans and a white tee. If black is a bit too intense a colour, allow me to introduce you to something on the other end of the spectrum. I’ve long been an admirer of
Linen Sport Jacket in Sandstone by The Anthology
The Anthology, and the style of its co-founder, Buzz Tang. Made of a 100% raw linen cloth, its Sandstone Sport Jacket is the epitome of craft, structure and detailing. Reminiscent of shantung, the jacket’s subtle lustre and soft handle makes it the perfect option for late spring, leading into the long-awaited summer.
If money is no object, but you’re still looking for something ready-to-wear rather than bespoke, the name Lardini should excite you. As should Loro Piana. As should a wool-cotton-silk-blend basketweave cloth. In a chocolate brown which screams for warmer climes, this mouthwatering jacket is the ultimate must-have. Replete with patch pockets, soft shoulders and Lardini’s signature flower lapel pin, once you put it on, good luck trying to take it off.
Brown Loro Piana Silk Blend Basketweave Jacket by Lardini
Proportions make perfect with this 6x2 pure linen sport jacket. Raw linen with subtle shimmer sourced from Harrisons of Edinburgh to add an extra touch of pure class.
theanthology.net
Just look at it. The epitome of quiet luxury in a versatile rich brown tone, this breathable summer jacket is finished with horn buttons and a signature flower lapel pin.
trunkclothiers.com
112 PORTRAIT: MARCUS EBANKS COLUMN
westleyrichards.com
A Tradition of Safari since 1812 Explore our bespoke sporting arms, artisanal leather goods & outdoor clothing collections.