LADY GAGA
82 ISSUE TIMELESS INSPIRATION
her artistic process in a new collaboration with
SAVILE ROW SPECIAL | KING CHARLES III | ASTON MARTIN DBX707
Reveals
Dom Pérignon
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Leading by example
et amid the rolling hills and picturesque countryside of the South Downs are the locations of three of England’s most iconic brands. In addition to being one of the UK’s most biodiverse parks, this fairy-tale national park in South East England – which stretches through Hampshire, West Sussex and East Sussex – is home to RollsRoyce, Goodwood and Cowdray Park.
Over the last few months, I’ve had the opportunity to visit each of these iconic heritage brands; while it’s true that, at first glance, the three couldn’t seem more different, as I got to know each brand better – and speak to the people behind their successes – I realised there is more that unites these brands than we might expect.
Each is steeped in history but also thoroughly contemporary in approach, working proudly in harmony with its local surrounds.
Conservation is just one shared passion for the trio: Goodwood’s Revival has long championed a tradition of ‘make do and mend’ while its Festival of Speed has been a leading light in celebrating the electric vehicle revolution; Rolls-Royce Motors’ scrupulously clean, quiet and sustainably designed manufactory is preparing to launch its first EV, Spectre, later this year; Cowdray’s approach to environmental conservation is evidenced in everything from its banquet menus to its wellness programmes – as I discover on page 74.
SSimilarly, we have seen increasing modernisation of the world’s most stylish street, Savile Row. The 200-year-old home of men’s tailoring is now a diverse, multicultural hub for bespoke fashion, as our exclusive photo story showcases on page 24.
These are not heritage brands hoping to coast along on outdated reputations or waiting around for a higher political power to demand change. These are companies fully aware of their unique positions of influence in a changing world, who seem determined to honour the interests their clientele and staff-members alike – and are ever fuelled by the desire to innovate. Luxury brands are asking: if not now, then when?
Seeing this drive displayed in so many areas – from hospitality to haute couture – makes this an exciting time for those of us experiencing this trajectory for ourselves. It can be seen in many of our features, from Lady Gaga’s artistic partnership with Dom Pérignon (14), August Bernstein’s take on haute horticulture (56), and the weird and wonderful wellness trends shaking up our self-care routines (66).
Elsewhere in the issue, we get to grips with the new Aston Martin DBX707 (40), get experimental with style in our men’s jewellery round up (20), and look ahead to the coronation of King Charles III in a special feature on page 48.
Enjoy the issue
Michelle Johnson Editor
6 Tempus Magazine is published by Vantage Media Limited. www.vantagemediagroup.co.uk Share your thoughts by contacting us via email at info@tempusmagazine.co.uk, or visit tempusmagazine.co.uk for your daily update from the world of luxury lifestyle © 2023 Vantage Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers, Vantage Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.
LUXURY BRANDS ARE ASKING: ‘IF NOT NOW, THEN WHEN?’
Contributors
Rikesh Chauhan
Style guru Rikesh presents our Savile Row special (24) before buttoning up with London’s best haberdasheries (112)
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Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk
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Wealth Editor
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Motoring Editor
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Judy Cogan
Judy saddles up for horse therapy in our wellness round up (66) and hits the mat with Roar Fitness’ Sarah Lindsay (72)
Chief Sub-Editor
Dominique Dinse
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Lady Gaga photographed by Mario Sorrenti. © Courtesy of Dom Pérignon. Article on page: 14
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10 The luxe list Our essential guide to the finest gifts and most exciting new launches of the season
14 The art of reinvention Superstar Lady Gaga gets introspective in her new campaign for Dom Pérignon
20 Express yourself Make a style statement with the coolest men’s jewellery brands
24 Exclusive: Unpicking the seams of Savile Row Meet the master tailors fashioning a global future for the Row
32 The house that Bugatti built Step inside the doors of Ettore Bugatti’s Alsace château
38 Keeping you secure Are you safe from cyber threats? Our partners share their tips for personal and professional security
40 Exclusive: High performance shooting We put the Aston Martin DBX707 through its paces on a traditional country shoot
46 Size matters The timeless factors that are bringing large watch dials back down to size
48 A modern monarch Find out more about the life and times of King Charles III ahead of a new style of coronation
56 Sage advice Le Manoir’s August Bernstein gets to the root of our growing passion for plants
60 Culture of contrasts Explore the dizzying landscapes of sacred Peru
66 Out of the ordinary Discover the weird and wonderful wellness trends shaking up our spa days
72 Worth the weight Roar Fitness founder Sarah Lindsay on how to make the most of any workout
74 Simple serenity Get back to nature in the wild woodlands of Cowdray Park
78 Land of fire, ice... and electricity Mercedes-Benz launches its all-electric saloon in the world’s most sustainable destination: Iceland
82 Small wonders Check in to the best boutique hotels on the planet
88 Hot property We get to bottom of the UK’s rollercoaster property market and ask: what’s our next move? 92 A blank canvas The women of Pictorum Art Group on the changing landscape of modern art
94 The great reset As Big Tech faces a major shake up, is it time to sound the death knell for Silicon Valley?
98 Out of this world This year’s Davos World Economic Forum asked us to look to the stars
101 RE:VIEW We chat to The Power actress Heather Agyepong, plus our pick of must-visit restaurants, shows and events 108 Save the date The finest events of the season 112 They wear it well Sensational style expert Rikesh Chauhan shares his favourite haute haberdasheries
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CONTENTS
14 The art of reinvention
©Mario Sorrenti
The LUXE LIST
Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gifts
Dom Pérignon Vintage 2013
Each vintage of Dom Pérignon is the result of at least eight years of elaboration in the champagne house’s cellars under the watchful eye of chef de cave Vincent Chaperon, and the newly released 2013 (right) is proving well worth the wait. This wine is tantalising on the nose – with notes of mint and eucalyptus, apricot and orange blossom – while the taste adds to the elegance with an enveloping attack and silky mouthfeel. Salut! Find out more about Dom Pérignon’s partnership with Lady Gaga on page 14
domperignon.com
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AMA Selections:
Villa Panagea
Tech-led Luxury travel platform AMA Selections is proving an exciting alternative for those looking for exceptional villa stays, offering affluent holidaymakers their pick of a portfolio of more than 1,000 professionally managed short term rental properties. With new updates allowing for clever curation by the in-house concierge team, and experiences such as Ferrari tours or parachuting hand-picked for users, this is a sure mix of DIY and curated escapes. Top picks include the tranquil Villa Panagea (left) – a six-bedroom Greek villa situated steps away from the turquoise waters of the Heraklion Gulf. Bright, spacious interiors offer sea-views of a secluded private beach, and nearby mountains, gorges and winding paths offer excitement year-round. App-y travels!
amaselections.com
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
70th Anniversary Act 2 –Tech Gombessa
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Celebrating the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms diving watch is surely worthy of not one, but two very special novelties. Act 2 –
Tech Gombessa (left) features innovations co-created by brand president Marc A Hayek and biologist Laurent Ballesta (founder of the Gombessa marine project) that allow for accuracy during more extreme dives up to 300m. The 47mm dial – finished in “absolute black” – is surrounded by a unidirectional bezel with three-hour scale. A special hand also measures three hours and is the heart of the new Caliber 13P8 movement, all enclosed in a Grade 23 titanium case. This is a diving watch with endless depth.
blancpain.com
Georg Jensen
Silver specialist Georg Jensen has long been known for the epic craftsmanship and extraordinary design first pioneered by the brand’s founder 100 years ago. With a new silver gallery launching on Grafton Street, as well as home décor and jewellery, Georg Jensen is making sure silver shines as brightly as gold. But its latest jewellery lines is especially eye-catching. The Fusion (right) and Reflect collections are full of statement rings, bracelets, pendants and earrings for women and men, and perfect for elevating any outfit – and adding a touch of heavy metal. Discover more men’s jewellery style on page 20 »
georgjensen.com
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Omega Her Time London
Following celebrated stints in Milan, Shanghai, Paris and Madrid, Omega’s touring exhibition of women’s watches through the ages has finally touched down in London. Her Time brings together historic horology from late 19th century pendant watches to the 1970 Constellation, along with the brand’s latest novelties for women, with an exhibition at 4 Hamilton Place – an Edwardian townhouse in Mayfair that has been transformed into Omega’s own private members club. Launched on International Women’s Day on 8 March, the exhibition will run until 29 March and includes some incredible vintage pieces and artwork (left). A timely exhibition.
omegawatches.com
Tata Harper Skin Care
Perfect your natural skin routine with Tata Harper’s range of luxurious skincare. The brand, founded in 2007, has both environmental and scientific credentials through its range of cleansers, masks, elixirs and creams (right) – and a skincare concierge who can guide you to your perfect personalised routine. Tata Harper uses raw ingredients at high concentrates, using complex chemistry to achieve powerful results using natural sources. Unlock your natural beauty.
tataharperskincare.com
Macbeth Scotch Whisky illustrated by Quentin Blake
A new Scotch Whisky collection by Livingstone and Elixir Distillers celebrates Shakespeare’s ‘Scottish Play’ with bottles illustrated by legendary artist Sir Quentin Blake (left). The 90-year-old illustrator created labels for 42 characters, each represented by different expressions. There are six series in the collection: five Leads (including a 56-year-old Glen Grant representing King Duncan), 12 Thanes, six Ghosts (each from a ghost distillery), three Witches (including an Islay Single Malt for the First Witch), four Murderers, and ten from the Household. True drama for all the senses.
livingstonerare.com
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Adam Handling boxset
Michelin-star chef Adam Handling has released a trilogy of unique coffee table books (left) showcasing his gastronomic philosophy, the journey of his restaurant group and the ethos of sustainability that underpins it all. The first, Frog by Adam Handling, features 100 recipes from his London kitchens and is described by Adam as the definitive “British cookbook”. Why Waste? is a comprehensive guide to sustainability in the kitchen and beyond, with seasonal produce guides and zero-waste recipes. The final book, Perfect, Three Cherries, is named for Adam’s favourite cocktail and is an anthology of the British cocktail scene. Alongside recipes, the books are filled with intimate anecdotes from colleagues and friends and personal photos from Adam’s family collection. A delicious collection!
adamhandling.co.uk
Birley Bakery Easter Egg
No need for an Easter Egg hunt this year, thanks to Birley Bakery’s collection of limited edition chocolate treats (right). The Golden Egg is made of our Birley reserve 80% dark chocolate, garnished inside with almond dragees, (candy-coated almonds), sitting on top of a dark Birley chocolate bar and finished with edible gold leaf. The Birley Bunny is made of Swiss milk chocolate, garnished with dragées, sitting on top of a milk Birley chocolate bar, while the Sunny Bunny is made of a 60% dark chocolate outer casing, garnished with dragees sitting alongside the Birley bunny, on top of a dark Birley chocolate bar. Easter eggs worth hunting for...
@birleybakery
The Goring Coronation Menus
The Goring Hotel has long been a royal favourite and now, in anticipation of King Charles III’s coronation, the hotel is offering guests two right royal menus to celebrate. The Coronation
Afternoon Tea (left) features the monarch’s favourite cakes and sandwiches — from cream of lemon to Dukeshill Ham sandwiches, dark chocolate sweet treats, and a limited-edition strawberry and elderflower jam. For the evening, Michelin-starred head chef Graham Squire presents a six course Coronation Tasting Menu that focuses of Welsh specialities and foraged ingredients – reflecting the former Prince of Wales’ passion for conservation. The coddled Clarence Court egg with fine herb garden salad is a must-try. Bon appetit. Read more about the coronation of King Charles III on page 48
thegoring.com
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The art of REINVENTION
Musician, actress and superstar Lady Gaga gets introspective in her artistic new campaign for Dom Pérignon
Report: Michelle Johnson | Photography: Mario Sorrenti
When Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon first tasted the sparkling wine he perfected in 1668, he famously remarked: “I’m drinking stars”. The young monastery cellarer’s champagne creation went on to become the most celebrated drink in the French royal court and, today, Dom Pérignon is still a favourite of the rich and famous, delighting our tastebuds with exquisite vintages overseen by the brand’s chef de cave Vincent Chaperon. One such fan is Oscar and Grammy-winning singer/actress Lady Gaga. Born Stefani Germanotta, the versatile performer rose to fame in 2008 with a series of chart-topping pop hits and high fashion moments, explored jazz standards with legendary crooner Tony Bennett (2014), and received critical acclaim for acting roles in A Star is Born (2018) and House of Gucci (2021). With a penchant for such stylish reinvention, it is no wonder that Lady Gaga’s partnership with Dom Pérignon has been a celebration of contrasts since it began in 2021. Now, as the brand releases its new Vintage 2013 champagne, Lady Gaga has
produced a video campaign directed by Woodkid (Yoann Lemoine), choreographed by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and photographed by master of light Mario Sorrenti. The artists have come together to create a piece focused on the ‘labour of creation’ – and their shared drive to create ever more exciting and transformative art, whether that’s through song, cinema or champagne.
“I think that the first collaboration was very much rooted in this idea that, with your imagination, you can create your wildest fantasies,” says Lady Gaga, adding that the new campaign is about “the sentiment and the specialness of creating at all”.
“It could be a fantasy, it could be a reality, it could be something very simple, something really grand. The film takes you through all of that,” she says. “There are moments where it’s wild and moments where it’s quite human, and I think that’s a lovely message.”
Lady Gaga shares her artistic approach, the joy of collaborating with other artists, and why champagne is always a celebration. »
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How do you approach your different artistic disciplines?
The entry point is always different, whatever the project is. I love lots of different mediums of art. I don’t know that anyone in particular would think that I do them all well, but I like to do them anyway. Sometimes it’s an idea that just comes to me in the moment, just from being around people. Sometimes it’s when I’m alone. Sometimes it’s a poem that I might write or read. Sometimes I just want to play piano; sometimes I hear a melody in my head and sing it out loud. And other times, someone might come to me with an idea and say: ‘what do you think?’. I actually love collaborating with people. It’s such a wonderful way to work.
What do you enjoy about collaborating with Dom Pérignon?
What makes Dom Pérignon really special is that it’s very clear that you’re making a memory when you drink it. There’s a history to the champagne; there’s an artistry. When I first met [Dom Pérignon], before we even decided to work together, they taught me all about the process of making champagne, the way that monks created it. It was so interesting and, to be frank with you, I know that a lot of artists or celebrities work with brands and do collaborations but, for me, it’s really important that I work authentically with people. I love working with [Dom]; Vincent [Chaperon] is amazing, they’re inspiring. And they always embrace my friends who are artists, and they're excited to create something with somebody new.
What do you think about the new Vintage 2013?
I think every year is different, right? It’s a total spiritual experience – and I think the [last campaign] had a more kind of feeling of fantasy. This time it felt more introspective, and I think that’s why we created the imagery that we did.
What was your creative vision for this campaign?
This idea of introspection. I think that’s where I’m at in my own artistry as well... And so, in this film, I was excited to do something that was about the artistic gaze. What does it mean to make something, and really look at it and stand with your friends and gaze at it?
I always think when you work with other people, you remember that there’s an audience; when you do things by yourself, it’s for you. I loved working with [director/composer] Woodkid and [fashion director] Nicola Formichetti, who I’ve worked with for a really long time. He’s really a fashion legend at this point.
What was it like to work with Woodkid?
I love working with different artists. Woodkid is just incredibly soulful. You know, he was just wonderful.
It’s really nice when you work with people who are not trying to make you into something. I can’t tell you how much of my whole career was, like, people trying to dress me like a doll or get me to do something that they wanted me to do. This [campaign] was: ‘We want to capture the artist in that moment of inception, the introspective spirit and then the creative process, and here are the various ways that we think that we can show that.’ We seriously enjoyed each other.
It’s hard work, time, effort and discipline. When I’m working with [Dom Pérignon], there’s a level of sophistication and excellence that we always have to bring. I like to bring that with all of my work but I’m also a bit of a punk, so sometimes it’s a little more rough around the edges.
This campaign is about the ‘labour of creation’. What does that mean to you? That you need to work hard. Without being too crass, it’s not just about taking a photo with your iPhone. You have to put in the »
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A creative dialogue: Lady Gaga (right) and chef de cave Vincent Chaperon (below left) feature in Dom Pérignon’s creative campaign
work. You have to research imagery. You have to watch films, you have to read poetry, you have to read books; you have to have a chat with yourself about being innovative. I think that this campaign was about those of us who have made [making art] our life mission. That’s all we do. I spent all day today making art… And it is a labour of love. It’s a real privilege to make art. So you have to work hard because some people don’t have that privilege.
Do you have any specific memory of celebrating with Dom Pérignon?
I used to always drink Dom Pérignon with [singer] Tony Bennett. Whether it was in the middle of a show, at the Grammys, or at the end of a long day, it’s always for a special occasion. I actually have the [Vintage 2013] in my house – it sounds silly, but has it post-it on it that says ‘for my next win’. So I’m not allowed to drink it unless we have won something. It’s exciting. I think that that’s what makes Dom so special, isn’t it? That when you order one or when you have some with your friends, it’s a sentimental moment.
How has Dom Perignon’s philosophy inspired you?
They always remind me that it’s okay to have a very high bar. They have a very high bar for their champagne, the quality of their work, the people they collaborate with and I think that that’s a fine sentiment. I think it’s okay to have [high] standards, as long as you’re a good person. They’re very celebratory and thoughtful. It tastes thoughtful, doesn’t it? I think it does.
Interview: Dom Pérignon domperignon.com
Sparkling success: The video features Lady Gaga composing at her piano (left) as dancers come to life (right)
EXPRESS YOURSELF
Men’s jewellery has always been a statement ready to make, but all too often in recent years has it been reserved purely for the realms of rock ’n’ roll. Happily, thanks in no small part to the rise of Harry Styles, Timothée Chalamet, Pete Davidson and A$AP Rocky, jewellery has become a style stable for the fashion forward gent.
“There are some incredibly exciting jewellers out there for men but, until recently, red carpet accessories for men came down to their watch and cufflinks. Now we’re now seeing a much more exciting shift where men are embracing jewellery trends that used to be seen as subversive,” says designer Ciéranne Kennedy-Bell.
The award-winning Three Day Millionaire and BBC Starstruck costume designer and vintage style expert says bringing jewellery into the mainstream doesn’t diminish its power to tell a story – take, for example, musician Sam Smith’s jewellery journey, from a single crucifix earring in their first music video to romantic dangling pearls worn on both the red carpet and when they dress down. Likewise, actor Jason Momoa’s bohemian but geometric Cartier brooches may subtly reflect his Native Hawaiian culture, while The Mandalorian star Pedro Pascal often keeps things simple with a futuristic beaded necklace.
But for those of us not yet used to reaching into the jewellery box, where’s the best place to start?
“Classic St Christopher-style pendants and stylish pearl necklaces have become a staple, as have layered chains –Brad Pitt’s recent red carpet looks with Dior jewellery are great examples of how even a simple necklace can uplift an evening look,” says Ciéranne, before adding a caveat: “But beware cheap versions of popular pearls that can look more reality TV than Riviera cool.
“Likewise, geometric brooches and chunky rings can create a very classic and masculine rock look, while the same accessories in a more delicate style can express a softer vibe that still screams confidence – match golds, silver or gems for a cohesive look that will bring the outfit together.” With these top tips in mind, read on for some of the coolest men’s jewellery brands that will complete your look… »
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From classic pearl necklaces to masculine rings, men’s jewellery is making a style statement. Here, Tempus introduces you to some of the coolest brands making the man
21 STYLE
THOMAS SABO
Specialising in silver jewellery for women and men, German designer Thomas Sabo founded his eponymous line in 1984 and, by the 1990s, his sterling silver collections were a favourite in the fashion industry. Sabo launched his first men’s collection, Rebel at Heart, in 2007. Today, the brand partners with brilliant designers on a range of collections of bracelets, rings, pendants, earrings and more – from the Black Cat collection, to Rebel Kingdom’s skulls and crosses, the new Elements of Nature (right), to his fine jewellery collections. The one thing each collection has in common? A timeless touch of rock ’n’ roll.
thomassabo.com
TRUE ROCKS
Many jewellers claim to be rock ’n’ roll, but few are quite as authentic as True Rocks. This very cool and kitsch brand was founded by Dawn Hindle and Emily Bradbury and offers a unique range of pendants, earrings, charms and more for men and women. With fans including Idris Elba and Nicole Scherzinger, the brand is perhaps best known for its inspired artist collaborations, from Rachel Howard’s The Humble Hanger, Gavin Turk’s Bitten rich tea biscuit pendant, to a silver pendant adorned by a set of The Specials drummer (and Emily’s husband) John ‘Brad’ Bradbury’s own drumsticks, as well as a collaboration with theatre director and HIV activist Andrew Keates in support of the Terrence Higgins Trust. Rock on.
truerocks.com
TATEOSSIAN
Whether you’re looking for subtle studs, brilliant brooches, or other whimsical wonders, Tateossian has been a go-to for unique and stylish gentlemen since 1990. Founder Robert Tateossian – known as the King of Cufflinks – wanted to offer men and women ways to showcase their personality and style,. Go for Tateossian’s stacking bracelets (left) for everyday cool; match studs, chains and brooch styles to pull a black-tie look together; or, if you’re not ready to put your whole personality out on display, test the waters with a unique pair of cufflinks that reflects your hobbies, from mechanical gears, dice, cards and roulette wheels, mechanical animals, and even fine caviar – you really can wear your passions on your sleeves.
tateossian.com
DIOR
From fine jewellery to custom collections, the Dior brand is a powerhouse of style. The brand has dressed everyone from Harry Styles to Brad Pitt and Robert Pattinson, and is always expanding its dressed-up style for the modern man. New pieces from Dior’s fine jewellery collection are androgynous and organic in shape, with rings and chains lending themselves to stacking and layering, while stand-out pearl chokers and chunky necklaces and bracelets from the Mode collection (left) make a bold statement paired with sleek, masculine tailoring.
dior.com
BUCHERER
Given the long history of timepieces being the fashion accessory for men, it would be remiss of us not to include watch and jewellery experts Bucherer on our list. Founded in 1888, Bucherer’s gem-encrusted high jewellery collection is on every woman’s wish list – but the brand has also turned its love of colour and eye for detail to men’s jewellery with its Bucherer Blue collection of luxurious collaborations. The launch of Bucherer Blue X line introduces exceptional bracelets (left) and pendants that can be customised to feature lucky numbers, colours and bespoke engraving. The contemporary pieces can be worn individually or combined for a look uniquely your own.
bucherer.com
NOEL
This brand-new fine jewellery line was founded in London by third-generation jeweller Noel Samra. His two lines, Revolution and Cosmos, reflect two sides of the modern, rebellious man. Revolution (left and previous) combines white and rose gold with white and black diamonds to embody unconventionality and attitude, with cross pendant, rings and bracelets. Cosmos is Noel’s artistic take on a comet or shooting star, bringing divine light to the wearer through sharp, geometric shapes across a range of pieces – necklaces, bracelets and earrings – in a multitude of colours for your every mood. This is a brand to watch.
noeljewellery.com
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STYLE
London’s Savile Row has been a hallowed home of fine suits and accessories for more than 200 years, but its famed tailors and designers are anything but stuck in the past. In this exclusive photo-story, Tempus meets the masters of style leading the world’s most famous street into the future of global fashion
Savile Row has enjoyed something of a resurgence in recent times. For all the trials and tribulations that the Covid-19 pandemic provided, there was one undeniable positive — the pandemic became a catalyst for people to appreciate the clothes they felt comfortable wearing.
At the height of the lockdown, the picture was looking bleak for the Row — particularly following the closure of stalwarts Hardy Amies and Kilgour. However, tailoring houses and retailers have since recorded some of their highest numbers. It turns out, if you make something of genuine quality and craftsmanship, using beautiful materials that last a long time, there will be significant demand. This – coinciding with the microscope on fast fashion, damaging statistics on climate change, plus a continued cost-of-living crisis affecting the UK – has also influenced our collective spending habits. A shift to buying less – but buying better.
It stands to reason that Savile Row is, in fact, becoming more of a go-to option for the wider public, particularly due to its expanded offering, which now includes more in-depth ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as female- and gender-neutral-orientated clothing.
Being able to understand the past in order to navigate the present and cut a dash into the future, Savile Row has welcomed a host of new faces to sit alongside its heritage tailoring houses. Here, we meet some of the biggest names on the Row… »
RAV MATHARU | CLOTHSURGEON
The latest addition to Savile Row happens to be the first ever brand in its long and illustrious history to offer streetwear. In turn, clothsurgeon’s founder Rav Matharu (below) is also the first ever designer of South Asian descent to take up permanent residency. The brand’s name came about during his time at university in Leeds, and his propensity for cutting patterns with a scalpel. Rav’s stint as a professional footballer with Leeds United, meanwhile, introduced him to the world of street culture by way of football boots and clothing off the pitch.
Stepping into clothsurgeon, at number 40 Savile Row, the influence of traditional tailoring, streetwear, football and wider art culture hits you, while the subtle smell of agarbatti incense nods to his heritage. Rav’s love for craftsmanship is very much apparent in the garments he makes and displays, and his appreciation for design and quality materials allows for customers to come into the store — which is as much a gallery space as it is a Savile Row tailor — to become the creator. It’s something traditional tailors have long been doing, but with the fusion of streetwear, it provides the bespoke touch and finesse to otherwise casual pieces, worn by generations young and old.
“I’m quite obsessive in the pursuit of perfection, even though I know that it doesn’t exist. There’ll never be a perfect product but I know I’ll work really hard to get to that point,” says Rav, who founded the ground-breaking label in 2012 and brought it to the hallowed Row last August. “I think that’s what keeps me going; the idea of making the same thing over and over again would bore me. Sitting down with customers and creating new products, exciting pieces and helping them navigate their style if they need advice…
“I feel like I’ve gained that knowledge from studying product for the last 30 years—from football boots, to sneakers, to streetwear brands to high end fashion and bespoke.”
clothsurgeon.com
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MATTIA FINALDI | CAD & THE DANDY
Since 2008 Cad & The Dandy has made significant headway on Savile Row by offering a meticulous and extensive readyto-wear line that sits perfectly alongside its bespoke offering.
The brand’s use of space to best showcase its clothes at number 7/8 — everything from tailoring, formal and outerwear, knitwear, accessories and Arthur Sleep slippers — is something to behold. Mattia Finaldi (top right), who joined as a tailoring consultant in 2022, believes that quality ready-to-wear is now in high demand on Savile Row.
“The ready-to-wear we offer is made to the same standard and follows the same steps as our bespoke — inlays and all,” he says. “Our tailors know the clothes inside out and can take them apart and easily put them back together again. This allows us to do as many alterations as necessary to get as close to a bespoke fit, allowing us to maintain the Savile Row cut and quality at a more affordable and accessible price point.”
Although experimental in his own personal style, Mattia still recommends a classic option for a first investment piece.
“Typically, for a first-time customer, we will always suggest a strong navy three-piece suit, in all-year-round worsted cloth,” he says. “A three-piece is a no-brainer as it is essentially two suits in one — ideal for more special occasions as well as dressing it down. It’s timeless and elegant – you’ll never get bored or regret your decision.” »
cadandthedandy.co.uk
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STYLE
ROBIN WINCH | BENNETT WINCH
The beauty of a shopping experience in London is that the city is a prime location if you’re looking for a full, headto-toe ensemble. A tried and tested investment, Bennett Winch’s leather bags and accessories have taken Savile Row by storm since the brand’s move from Duke Street in late 2022. Stunning craftsmanship aside, one of the brand’s biggest draws is that it is entirely British made — a key factor for patrons when purchasing goods, particularly from Savile Row.
The association of British craft with longevity is something not many brands are lucky enough to lay claim to. Bennett Winch, however, certainly can.
“We’re here to make timeless products that, once introduced to the range, will be there forever,” says co-founder Robin Winch.
The proof, as they say, is in the pudding, with each one of the seventy-three products the brand introduced since their inception still high in demand. There’s just something special about a product that’s been handmade in the UK, in a timeless style and ergonomic design.
By using quality materials, and ensuring they remain well looked after, these pieces can last decades. Given Savile Row’s reputation for creating exactly this, the presence of Bennett Winch is very much a welcomed one.
bennettwinch.com
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DAVIDE TAUB | GIEVES & HAWKES
With a career on Savile Row spanning more than two decades, tailor Davide Taub has certainly seen his fair share of activity. A key element that has helped sustain his work is a constant understanding of what the client wants, as well as where style , as a whole, is going.
“Whether it comes out as a two-piece business suit or tailored garments that are seen as being much more versatile, the age, background and nationality of the customer doesn’t really come into account now. We will have cloth to show them, but you’ll never know what you’re going to make until you’ve had a conversation with the customers, understanding what their expectations are, what they hope the garment will do or purely how it will feel,” says Davide. “It’s obvious people still love having handmade garments, they still love the personal feeling of having something made by them, guided by them, kind of almost designed by them.”
By delving into the wants and needs of their clientele, they are able to shape and develop garments in the present, which will ultimately set the course for future style. Interestingly, Davide goes on to say: “There’s no real binary answer to what the next ten years will look like, because styles are always shifting; meaning there’s no one particular look that will define this era. Every decade is probably the same but, looking back, people may say everyone in the ‘60s was wearing a tight mohair suit, everyone in the ‘70s was wearing purple flares. Of course, not everyone was.”
One of the biggest shifts Davide has noticed is the use of one outfit that serves multiple purposes. Traditionally, you would have a classic suit for work — particularly if you were in the city — a slightly-more-formal option for meetings, a separate and more relaxed ensemble for post-work drinks, and a much more casual one for weekends.
“Now people don’t want to go through that, so you have to be more conscientious with your designs and find a medium where you have a garment or garments that will look good in all these situations,” he says. “Maybe it’s even the subtlest of changes, such as changing the shirt you’re wearing or what kind of footwear. We do make a lot more suits knowing that trainers may now be worn with them rather than formal shoes, and even in the trainer world, designs have been refined to look good with more formal garments.”
gievesandhawkes.com
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STYLE
NINA PENLINGTON | EDWARD SEXTON
It’s clear that the need to meet the demands of the client is something that threads Savile Row brands together, but so is the need to continuously innovate. There’s one name that usually springs to mind in this regard, and that is Edward Sexton. He, along with business partner Tommy Nutter, founded Nutters of Savile Row on Valentine’s Day in 1969. They were rebellious, they were disruptive and they changed the face of tailoring.
Now, just over 30 years since Sexton left to set up in Knightsbridge, the brand has returned to the Row, with one of today’s most formidable cutters at the helm. Having worked under Davide Taub for several years at Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke, following an apprenticeship at Dege & Skinner by way of a six-month residency in New York, Nina Penlington (top right) joined Edward Sexton in 2022 to ensure the future of the brand remains as innovative as before.
Nina says: “It’s been quite a change. My style has always leaned towards that ‘70s luxe feel so, stylistically, it very much feels like I’ve come home.”
The Sexton silhouette is iconic, due in part to the fact that some of the most iconic names in music and film have adorned it. Sir Mick Jagger, anyone? The question remains, are there any individuals that are challenging the status quo today?
“Within some of these houses are people who are [innovating] in their own way, either in terms of cutting and making technique, or style, and I do think that we’re going to start seeing that more over the next few years — because we have to,” says Nina. “If Savile Row and the people within it don’t innovate and look towards the future of tailoring, and what that might mean to the modern person, we’re not going to be here much longer. There will always be disrupters on Savile Row—they just might be doing it a little more quietly. The people that want to find those people, will.”
While the diversity of products and craft may be prevalent, there is still disparity within the industry in terms of gender — both within the houses, as well as the clientele frequenting the street.
“Being one of the very few female cutters on the Row, I never really saw that many women. But the idea of gender-neutral clothing, I can see that much more. I’ve had a lot of clients that have been pushing that envelope much further, which is really exciting for me, as well as the fluidity of menswear and womenswear in general,” she says. “I hope that does foster change a little bit further. There’s still a way to go in terms of women’s cutting and style; a lot of the traditional ways of cutting for women are not that sexy, frankly. I think having more women on the Row can only be a good thing.”
edwardsexton.co.uk
MOLLY ANDERSON | RICHARD ANDERSON
Molly Anderson (above right) is quietly but assuredly making a name for herself in the tailoring world. An incredibly talented undercutter, she has followed in the footsteps of her father, Richard, and joined the family brand that shares his name, at 13 Savile Row. Having set up shop back in 2001, Richard Anderson was, at that point, the first tailoring house to have opened on the Row for 50 years.
It quickly became an institution and, with the addition of Molly to its ranks, the future is most certainly promising.
“I’ve only been on the Row for a short time,” says Molly, who began her apprenticeship
in 2020. “But it’s my favourite street in London and has a fabulous history. I love the people; the houses each have their own style and point of view but it is a close-knit community. It’s hard work, of course, but great when it pays off with happy customers from all walks of life.”
In terms of noticing the trend of style choices from customers, it’s evident that there’s a playfulness at hand. “It’s great to see a real resurgence of customers having fun with their tailoring,” Molly says. “People not having to wear suits as often, and now that life has opened up, if you will, I’ve noticed people are having fun with bright colours, fun
linings, unusual cloth choices and patterns. It really shows the joy of bespoke tailoring and well-made garments.”
Molly also touches on Nina Penlington’s view on Savile Row’s diversity. She says: “It is sometimes seen as a closed set, so we always try to introduce people, show what we can do, to attract different crowds – both to us as a tailoring house and to the scene in general. There is always room for diversity, and we’re slowly seeing more women working in the industry as well as becoming customers which is always inspiring.”
richardandersonltd.com
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STYLE
THE HOUSE B UGATTI BUILT
Step inside the doors of Ettore Bugatti’s Alsace château and discover the driving force behind one of the world’s most exciting car marques
Words: Rory FH Smith
If Ettore Bugatti was alive today, there’s a strong chance he wouldn’t rank highly in popularity polls. More artist than scientist, Ettore – the founder of his eponymous car company – was well known for his ego and penchant for dismissing potential customers he didn’t deem worthy (or wealthy) enough to buy his cars.
Like many of today’s technically obsessed automotive moguls, Ettore was a details man; but he was also a showman and gifted marketeer. Obsessed with appearance, design, performance and status, it was these qualities that characterised the motoring masterpieces that carried his name.
“Loud in voice, high in colour, overflowing with life, a brown bowler sitting on the back of his head, he looked more like a horseman strayed among motor-cars,” wrote JA Grégoire in L’Aventure Automobile, in 1953. “Bugatti was pure artist; his only scientific knowledge resulted from experience, which increased with the years, and a natural mechanical ability aided by a gift of observation.”
Alongside machines, Ettore was a keen horse rider and would often travel around his production site on horseback, inspecting the work of the craftsmen and engineers from the saddle. With an unwavering belief that his way was the only way, Ettore designed and engineered countless creations in and outside of the motoring sphere –from trains, planes and automobiles to cutlery and cooking tools. But look beyond his eccentric and egotistical character traits, and you’ll find one of the greatest inventors of the 20th century, whose legacy still lives on in the form of some of the finest and fastest cars in the world. »
AN AUTOMOTIVE GENIUS
When pulling up to the imposing gates and through the 15th Century archway ruin of Bugatti’s Château Saint Jean in the French town of Molsheim, nothing exemplifies the man’s overwhelming character more than the elaborate house he purchased to host and entertain his customers in 1928. First built in 1857 by the Wangen de Geroldseck family, the charming château was the jewel in Ettore’s arsenal of sales tools. Once guests arrived, often chauffeured in his personal Bugatti Type 41 Royale, they would be greeted on the steps of the chateau and shown to dinner. Unrelenting in his obsessive pursuit for perfection, Ettore even designed and engineered his own pasta maker, built his own henhouse to deliver freshly laid eggs, and created his own custom cutlery – all engraved with his initials.
“He was a marketing genius,” says former F1 racer-turned-Bugatti test driver Pierre-Henri Raphanel. “For example, Bugatti never produced oil, yet he would pour Castrol oil into a Bugatti oil tank, which was nicely designed, and sell it as Bugatti oil for three times the price. Now this very
them in the event of a crash. For that, they’d have to come back to the man who made it.
Flanking the château lies a collection of converted stable blocks, each harbouring some of the greatest and most expensive Bugattis ever made. In one stable sits a gargantuan Type 41 Royale and a more modern Veyron, each of which cost nearly £1m when new in 1927 and 2005 respectively. Beyond the cars lie countless models showcasing every design and invention made by the marque’s founding father.
While the château and the surrounding buildings remain largely true to their original design and purpose, one area of the site is radically different to how Ettore left it when he died in 1947. Like a spaceship poised in the garden of the 19th-century château, the modern Bugatti factory site is a Bond-spec production facility that constructs the world’s finest automotive works of art. Inside there are no robots or production lines, just a handful of highly skilled engineers and technicians carefully assembling each car by hand.
Despite his death more than 75 years
engine on board, the Super Sport will accelerate from 0-62mph in just 2.4 seconds and on to a staggering top speed of 273mph all for the princely sum of £3.2m – if it were still for sale, that is. All 30 cars are already accounted for.
Grumbling out of the gravel driveway, I’m joined by British racing driver and Bugatti official test driver Andy Wallace, who sits patiently in the passenger seat. He’s humble, offering advice on directions and the best way to handle all of the Chiron’s 1,578bhp on a slippery roundabout in late October. Nothing, other than a quick Google search, would suggest that he was the man that set a record speed of 300mph in a Bugatti Chiron Super Sport 300+ in 2019, nor that he has won more than 25 international races since 1988.
“Just go for it,” he says, spotting an opportunity to open the Chiron’s up on a relatively straight section of road leading up into the hills around Molshiem. With the slightest tap of the right foot, the Chiron explodes, catapulting my head, neck and spine deep into the back of the quilted leather seat. Trees and road signs blur in my peripheral vision as I accelerate at warp speed, with only the horizon of the road surface visible, dead ahead. It’s all I can focus on, as behind my head the din of engineering witchcraft whirs, spits and screams as high-octane fuel ignites to propel the car forward with extraordinary force.
It’s a sensation like no other and, although cars like the Rimac Nevera and Automobili Pininfarina Battista are faster in a straight-line sprint, there’s no substitute for the majestic sound, smell and sheer force that Bugatti’s W16 engine generates. Once our driving tour of the Alsace countryside is complete and I descend back down to earth, I park up where I left off, outside the towering monument to Ettore Bugatti’s vision to create the world’s greatest cars.
normal, but 100 years ago, this was very clever.”
The grand interior of Château Saint Jean was restored and reinstated as the home of Bugatti by former parent company, the VW-Group, in the late 1990s. Bugatti has since moved into the hands of all-electric hypercar maker and relative newcomer Rimac, who purchased 55% of the Alsace company in 2021. Porsche owns the remaining 45%.
Further evidence of Ettore Bugatti’s business brain at work can be found on the iconic 1920s Type 35 racer, which Ettore equipped with wheels made from aluminium, not just because it was the lightest and strongest material around, but because no other car maker or garage could fix
ago, Ettore’s meticulous attention to detail is widely practiced in the manufacture of modern Bugattis. Every inch of bodywork is painstakingly analysed before its approved, as the pursuit for perfection continues well into the company’s second century.
FAST TIMES
After a morning spent exploring and understanding every square metre of Bugatti’s unique headquarters, my afternoon is about experiencing it in action. Humming ominously outside of the house is a brand-new black and white Bugatti Chiron Super Sport. With the carmaker’s infamous 8.0-litre quad-turbo W16
While all Bugatti owners are offered a tour of the historic site during the purchase and production of their car, Château Saint Jean remains a mythical place in the car world. Like something ripped from the pages of a novel, this 19th-century château is the most unlikely yet magical setting for a company building incredibly complex cars.
Now 114 years old, Bugatti has led the way in both luxury and performance for more than a century. Ushering in a new, electric age, the Molsheim site will soon start to produce electrified Bugattis after a century of mastering the combustion engine. While the death of the monumental W16 engine is imminent, it is Bugatti’s ability to continuously defy the odds when it comes to automotive innovation that will keep this cherished marque at the front of the automotive line-up for a while longer yet.
bugatti.com
The house of Bugatti: inside Ettore's historic home (above) and the modern-day manufactory (opposite); Ettore in his innovative Type 35 in 1924 (below right); Bugatti Chiron Super Sport (far right)
DESPITE HIS DEATH MORE THAN 75 YEARS AGO, ETTORE
BUGATTI’S METICULOUS ATTENTION TO DETAIL IS WIDELY PRACTICED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE BRAND’S MODERN MACHINES
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MOTORING
SIZE MATTERS
When it comes to men’s watches, large dials have been a status symbol since the 1990s. But the digital boom – and a rediscovery of retro Italian style – might have finally brought this trend down to size
Words: Charles Newland
Historically, men’s watches for general wear didn’t get any larger than 38mm – be it Clark Gable with his 34mm yellow Patek Philippe Ref 1526, Elvis Presley with his outlandish space-age Hamilton Ventura or Paul Newman in his auction-recordsetting ($17.8million) Rolex Daytona Ref 6239.
If a watch was of a larger size it was designed for a purpose, such as diving, aviation or some other extreme situation, where being able to see the dial was a matter of life or death. Wearing a sports watch to a party or function would have been seen as faux-pas – you should wear the watch, not the other way around.
Over time this began to change with the rise of the action hero – yes, as with so many trends it started with celebrities. During the ‘90s, the classically styled men’s watch wouldn’t cut it for the biggest stars in the world, and year zero for the large watch started with Sylvester Stallone. While on a trip to Milan in 1995, Stallone discovered the brand Panerai (a company that was famous
for making large dive watches for the Italian military) and bought one of their historic 44mm Luminor models. Not only did Sly buy one for himself, he also bought one for his friend, rival and fellow muscled übermensch, Arnold Schwarzenegger. These timepieces not only appeared in paparazzi photos and on the red carpet, but both men chose to wear the watches in their films; from here, the large watch became part of popular culture.
Moving further into the decade the trend continued and the watches got bigger. Actors, sportsmen and rappers packed away their 36mm 18ct yellow gold Rolex President DayDates and moved on to the Hublot Big Bang, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Off-Shore and IWC Big Pilot – all watches over 44mm. There should also be a special mention to the most ostentatious of all bling watches from the period: the diamond bezelled Jacob & Co Five Time Zone. At 47mm, it had all the elegance of attaching a multi-coloured tea saucer to your wrist with a leather strap. »
RETRO STYLE
There was a sea change in the early-2010s as two things called time on the huge watch trend. First and foremost was the popularity of watch websites such as Hodinkee. Until this time, watch collecting and horology had been a niche hobby for internet users, usually discussed on dedicated forums. Now, it became aspirational and lifestylebased, with photoshoots of the latest impossibleto-get pieces timepieces pictures side-by-side with vintage Porsches and Leica cameras.
The second thing that happened was a change in fashion. The silhouette of men’s tailoring got slimmer, harking back to the cut of Italian suits from the 1960s (think Mad Men’s Don Draper) – a 47mm watch would look out of place and wouldn’t fit under the cuff even if you wanted to wear it.
What the online watch tastemakers facilitated was bringing the smaller vintage watch to the fore: beautiful hand-wound Omega, Cartier and Patek dress watches; sports watches like the classic Oyster line of Rolexes; the retro charm of the original Gerald Genta designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe Nautilus.
The hype surrounding these pieces made vintage watches a hot commodity – this can be seen by the auction results over the past few years with some rare watches going up in price tenfold in a mere decade.
With the massive interest in the vintage market, watch brands were keen to mine their own history and release updated versions of their classic pieces. A notable example of this is the huge success of the relaunched Tudor, with its 39mm Black Bay Fifty-Eight being one of the hottest and most sought-after watches of recent times. The same goes for the Tissot PRX which brought back their Genta-style 1970s integrated bracelet timepiece for a new generation with a choice of either automatic or quartz movements.
Look down any red carpet now and you will see this in full force, from rapper Jay-Z with his curated collection of rare complicated Pateks to Dune star Timothée Chalamet wearing one of his classic Cartier Tanks, to Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny performing at the 2023 Grammys in a vintage 32mm gold Audemars Piguet. For the time being, at least, it would appear the fashionable small watch is here to stay.
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WATCHES
WITH THE MASSIVE INTEREST IN THE VINTAGE MARKET, WATCH BRANDS WERE KEEN TO MINE THEIR OWN HISTORY AND RELEASE UPDATED VERSIONS OF THEIR CLASSIC PIECES
Vintage inspiration: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak selfwinding chronograph 38mm (left), A Lange & Sohne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase (centre), Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 (right); and the Panerai Luminor Due Luna (previous page)
HIGH PERFORMANCE SHOOTING
From city streets to off-road pursuits, we put the Aston Martin DBX707 through its paces in our exclusive country game shoot
Words: Peter Malmstrom | Photography: Andrew Green | Gundogs: Jo Rollinson
Having arrived in London fresh off a long-haul flight, I was presented with keys to the latest variant of Aston Martin’s DBX line – the 707 – ahead of a long drive back to the country on a dark, damp Friday night.
Frustratingly, when I first saw the DBX707, the interior lights had been set to off, which meant on entering in the dark, I couldn’t adequately see the myriad buttons and controls decorating the dashboard. However, in the gloom of the evening I did see the familiar Aston Martin gearbox controls lining the top of the dashboard, these recognisable features going back to the early Vanquish. I contented myself with turning everything I could off and just focusing on the long drive
ahead of me, in what I was told would be a very interesting machine. Having done very little research on the car prior to my drive, I wasn’t sure quite what to expect beyond having seen a couple of early examples on the road. Could this four-wheel drive Aston Martin really be capable of fulfilling all the needs of a sporting SUV on and off road?
On starting the car there was an interesting rumble from what sounded like a nicely tuned V8. Pulling away, I was immediately hit by the torque at low revs – the power curve was just amazing. I wondered what could be under the bonnet to give such low-down torque and, having found and turned off the exhaust moderator button, the full harmonics came to life in a beautifully thrilling cacophony of
power in motion. Surely, I thought, this must be a massive V8 – five to six litres at least? Wrong. The 707 is in fact a 4ltr twin turbo engine, generating 707PS (697bhp) and delivering a massive 900Nm of torque.
The power generated by this engine –combined with its versatility and efficiency – was astounding, and I found myself shortshifting through the gears, relying on the endless torque for smooth acceleration in traffic as I navigated my way out of town.
On the open road, pulling through the gears the DBX707 had its next surprise in store for me in the form of a nine-speed gearbox that, combined with the superb engine, delivers a 0-62mph time of 3.3 seconds and a top speed of 193mph. »
Shooting performance: The Aston Martin DBX707 performed effortlessly offroad
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ALL-PURPOSE PERFORMANCE
Seen in the light of the following day, the true splendour of the DBX707 was on full display. The ‘Satin Titanium Grey’ paint scheme seemed iridescent in the sunlight and the subtle, almostolive-grey colour set off the aggressive lines of the 707 beautifully. The styling was purposeful and certainly eye catching. Indeed, the Aston Martin’s credentials, combined with the evocative burble of the hard-hitting V8, certainly drew attention in the urban environment – but how would it fair in the countryside?
To test the DBX707’s claim of true SUV status, I resolved to put it through its paces at a classic English end-of-season shoot, loading it up with guns, gun slips, cartridges, cartridge bags, gun dogs, wellies and warm gear – all essential requirements for any credible SUV to swallow up in its stride. How would the DBX707 cope with off-road driving? And was it truly the allrounder that Aston Martin hoped it would be, bridging the gap between high-performance luxury and usability at the very top end of this rapidly growing SUV market – now the stomping ground of all luxury sports car manufacturers?
The DBX707 coped brilliantly with undulating country roads. The ride was perfect and the seating position much easier than any low-slung sports car. The 707’s road-holding was exceptional and the suspension beautifully tuned, taking corners at speed confidently and comfortably. This near-perfect balance is largely due to the wonderfully engineered, honeycomb aluminium chassis and subframes, evidenced under the bonnet, combined with the low centre of gravity that the ultra-light 4ltr V8 engine, gearbox and four-wheel drive power train deliver.
The blistering performance and beautifully predictable behaviour of the 707 makes it a pleasure to drive at speed, and it is this drivability that makes it so fast on the road in real terms,
rather than purely in the statistics. Part of the confidence to push the 707 so hard comes from the carbon ceramic brakes, which crush the car into the ground on heavy breaking with not a hint of step out or the back coming round on you. Commendations must go to the technical team at Aston Martin for the design, tuning, and set up of this truly incredible car.
Off-road, I expected the DBX707 to slip and slide around, given the wide wheels and road tuned tyres. This is, in my experience, where most high-performance SUVs fall down. Not the 707. The car was comfortable over ruts and had good balance even when driven up and along steep inclines. A slight concern was the safety of thousands-of-pounds-worth of carbon fibre aerodynamic finials on the front and rear of the car over the uneven ground – but the designers had anticipated this and provided for the clearances needed, so all remained well for sensible, light off-road use. The comfort and performance across a field at pace was equally impressive and, for a mid-sized SUV, the boot is more than adequate for all manner of shooting accessories – including a posse of gun dogs, all happily oblivious to the luxury and performance they were experiencing.
Summing up the Aston Martin DBX707, I can say that it is, without doubt, one of the best allrounders I have driven. It has all the ability and versatility a lady or gentleman needs in pursuit of their sporting interests and, for those looking for a car that sits at the pinnacle of performance, luxury and usability – presented by one of the most famous, iconic and desirable British brands – the Aston Martin DBX707 is without doubt a serious contender for the best all-round SUV on the planet.
astonmartin.com
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THE ASTON MARTIN DBX707
MOTORING
IS A SERIOUS CONTENDER FOR THE BEST ALL-ROUND SUV ON THE PLANET
KEEPING Y U SECURE
Monan Gozzett LLP senior partner Neal Gozzett introduces a new security partnership with Valkyrie that is safeguarding his clients from online risks and false allegations
The notion of a police officer knocking on your door to arrest you, a family member, or someone you love being threatened online or in person would be terrifying. For many of our clients who may be facing such a prospect, the most important question they must ask is, quite simply, how can we protect you?
Here at Monan Gozzett LLP, we offer first-class legal services to protect our clients and their loved ones. We work closely with security expert Gurpreet Thathy of international security specialists Valkyrie to protect individuals and their families nationally and internationally from both a legal and security viewpoint. We frequently provide a dual advisory service to our clients to offer immediate protection or provide generic safeguarding advice to prevent any future issues.
Valkyrie understands that threats to your security and reputation can surface in varied and unexpected ways. This can range from opportunistic street crime to targeted criminal planning and obsessive stalkers, harassment, extortion, blackmail, bribery and cyberattacks. In addition, medical emergencies, accidents, kidnap, and even natural disasters can leave you and your loved ones vulnerable.
One aspect of our safeguarding services is protection from false allegations. Monan Gozzett offers a firstclass array of legal services to protect anyone subject to a false allegation, whether this is a defamatory comment online that could result in a security threat
or any potential investigation by a public or private body including the police, educational establishment (schools, colleges, universities) or at the workplace. We also offer safeguarding advice against any future potential threat, including offering vulnerability assessments from a legal and security standpoint for every generation of the family.
A common source of vulnerability often comes from younger members of the family who, while technically savvy, are not as au fait with network security. Children and younger adults having unlimited access to online technology open up a world of potential issues from a legal and security perspective. We can provide safeguarding advice tailored to each user to prevent future legal or security disputes.
As our security partner, Valkyrie delivers a marketleading solution by implementing a proactive, pre-emptive and preventative risk management programme that protects you and everything –and, most importantly, everyone – that you hold dear. Valkyrie provides security risk management services to family offices, high-net-worth individuals, companies and organisations to ensure the integrity of information and security at home, in the office and while travelling. Their objective is to recommend a security strategy that provides the required level of personal protection to enable our clients to enjoy a balanced, safe, secure lifestyle.
These specialist services are centred on four key areas: cyber security, investigations and surveillance,
Technical Surveillance & Counter Measures (TSCM, also known as bug sweeping) and physical security (including audits and physical penetration testing).
“Valkyrie applies the latest technological advancements to enhance the effectiveness of our work. This approach enables us to drive cost efficiencies that directly benefit our clients,” explains Gurpreet. “We value technological innovation combined with expert strategies based on tried and tested principles that have stood the test of time. This ensures that our plans are resilient in the face of any challenge. Our experienced and highly trained personnel ensure that every step is undertaken with pride, passion and consummate skill.”
Valkyrie has established a reputation for providing the highest quality security services, including tailored security and lifestyle management for high-net-worth individuals (HNWIs), families and businesses.
Working together, Monan Gozzett and Valkyrie work offer a dual advisory service designed to protect you and your family from any legal and security issues. Neal Gozzett explains “Our firm’s ethos is to be proactive and manage any crisis, and, with like-minded partners ready to provide the technical expertise and experience needed to make our services even more secure, our clients can feel safe in the knowledge that they are protected from any allegation.”
If you wish for further details, please contact my office at 0207 936 6329 or email us at ngozzett@ monangozzett.com or security@valkyrie.co.uk
47 PARTNER FEATURE
A MODERN MONARCH
As the world prepares for the first British coronation in more than 70 years, we discover how the historic ceremony will see ancient traditions honoured – and a modern new monarchy forged – and delve into the fascinating life of the man destined to be King
Words: Dominique Dinse & Michelle Johnson
Charles III’s coronation on 6 May 2023 will set the crown on seven decades of steadfast service and preparation, cementing a destiny foretold at birth. And, while it will continue a royal tradition spanning almost an entire millennium, it will also usher in a visibly modern monarchy.
On 6 May 2023, at the estimable age of 74, Charles will become the 40th member of the royal family since William the Conqueror in 1066 – and the oldest monarch in British history – to be crowned in Westminster Abbey’s gilded halls. The ceremony will be the grand focal point in a long bank holiday weekend gifted with an extra day to allow the nation free rein to celebrate.
Buckingham Palace has announced various events for the weekend, including a concert and laser light show at Windsor Castle on Sunday 7 May, and pubs, clubs and bars across England and Wales will be permitted to extend their licensing hours from 11pm to 1am to allow patriotic revellers to raise a glass to the new King. People are being invited to take part in volunteering projects in their local community, as part of the Big Help Out initiative. Celebration Big Lunch street parties are also being planned across the weekend.
It was the death of Queen Elizabeth II on 8 September 2022 that saw the then Prince of Wales accede to the throne. Her Majesty was always going to be a tough act to follow. Having just months earlier celebrated her historic Platinum Jubilee – making her sevendecade reign the longest of any British monarch – her death aged 96 was met with fulsome and abundant eulogies from world leaders, celebrities and members of the British public.
Her moving state funeral, watched by more than 32.5 million people, followed a solemn fiveday lying in state, with more than 250,000 people filing past the Queen’s coffin in Westminster Hall to pay their respects. Some – including footballer David Beckham – had waited for more than 24 hours, in a queue that reached ten miles at its peak.
The outpouring of grief that followed the
Queen’s death showed the depth of devotion to a royal head of state who inspired respect and admiration for her unwavering sense of duty to her country.
In his first address as King, Charles paid tribute to these attributes: “Throughout her life, Her Majesty the Queen – my beloved mother – was an inspiration and example to me and to all my family, and we owe her the most heartfelt debt any family can owe to their mother; for her love, affection, guidance, understanding and example.
“Queen Elizabeth’s was a life well lived; a promise with destiny kept and she is mourned most deeply in her passing. That promise of lifelong service I renew to you all today.”
Crowned in 1952, the late Queen oversaw great changes in society during her illustrious reign. Her own coronation was the first in British history to be broadcast live on television. Seven decades later, Elizabeth’s eldest son will use his coronation to herald in his own modern monarchy. Buckingham Palace has confirmed that although the coronation will be “rooted in long-standing traditions” it will also “reflect the monarch’s role today and look towards the future”.
The ceremony itself will be conducted by the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Most Rev Justin Welby. Speaking of the coronation, The Archbishop told the Telegraph he has been having “nightmares” in the build-up to the ceremony. “I dreamt we got to the point and I’d left the crown at Lambeth Palace. It’s obviously weighing on me quite a lot,” he said. “But it’s just an enormous honour and privilege[…] and the coronation weekend is going to be a time of bringing the country together.”
The service will feature key points including the Oath, where the new sovereign swears to uphold the law and the Church of England, the Anointing, where a gold cloth conceals the King from view while he is anointed with holy oil, and the Recognition, where the Monarch is presented to those gathered in the Abbey.
Charles will be crowned with the 17th-century St Edward’s Crown. With a solid gold frame weighing nearly 5lbs and adorned with semiprecious stones, it is exceptionally heavy and so only used at the moment of coronation. The regal headwear was made for the Coronation of Charles II to replace the medieval crown – said to have belonged to the 11th-century royal saint King Edward the Confessor – that was melted down by parliamentarians in 1649 after the execution of King Charles I. Towards the end of the coronation ceremony, the King will don the Imperial State Crown, originally made for the coronation of King George VI in 1937.
The ceremony will also see Camilla, the Queen Consort similarly anointed and crowned. Part of the official coronation involves placing a special ring on the fourth finger of the monarch, representing that the sovereign is ‘wedded’ to the people, and a ring is offered to the Queen Consort in the same way.
It is known that Camilla will wear Queen Mary’s 1911 Crown, which has been taken out of the Tower of London to be resized ahead of the ceremony. The modified crown will also include three diamonds — the Cullinan III, IV and V — from the late Queen Elizabeth’s personal collection, but not the controversial Koh-i-Noor; the 105.6-carat diamond whose ownership is disputed.
A focal point during the historic ceremony will be the 700-year-old coronation chair, which has been cleaned and preserved inside Westminster Abbey ahead of the big day. It was made around 1300 for Edward I to house the famous Stone of Scone, or Stone of Destiny, which was brought from Scotland in 1296, having served as throne to Scottish kings for centuries. Built from oak and gilded with gold leaf, the chair was painted with patterns of birds, foliage and a king – it bears graffiti carved on the back. »
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RINGING IN THE CHANGES
So far, so traditional. But King Charles III will also use the service to make the occasion uniquely his own. It’s known he wants to incorporate the many different cultures and belief communities that represent Britain today, echoing his comments over past decades.
“I mind about the inclusion of other people’s faiths and their freedom to worship in this country,” he said in 2015. “It’s always seemed to me that, while at the same time being Defender of the Faith, you can also be protector of faiths.” There have been suggestions that the coronation oath might be altered accordingly.
He has also chosen to invite, for the first time, members of foreign royal families. For centuries, convention dictated that no other crowned royals should be present at the coronation of a British monarch because the sacred ceremony is intended to be an intimate exchange between the monarch and their people in the presence of God. But as part of his plan to bring the ceremony up to date, King Charles has decided to move on from the 900-year-old tradition by inviting his crowned friends, including European royals and rulers from Arab states. Among those expected to attend are King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima of the Netherlands, Prince Albert and Princess Charlene of Monaco, and King Abdullah and Queen Rania of Jordan.
With close and long-standing ties to many of his overseas counterparts forged through his decades of service as the Prince of Wales, the British heir apparent, the King’s invitation to them now provides an opportunity for soft diplomacy on behalf of the UK.
The rest of the guestlist will include members of the British royal family, dignitaries and public figures including Prime Minister, members of the Houses of Parliament, heads of state and representatives from the King’s many charities.
The King has also personally chosen the music for the ceremony, which will feature 12 newly commissioned pieces, including an anthem by composer Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber. Parts of the service will be sung in Welsh, with soloists including world-famous Welsh opera singer Sir Bryn Terfel. There will also be Greek Orthodox music in memory of the King’s father, Prince Philip, who was born in Greece. A gospel choir will also perform, as will choristers from Westminster School.
Despite all the necessary flourishes, this is likely to be a coronation shorter and smaller in scale than Queen Elizabeth II’s in 1953, and with a far more modest procession. More than 8,000 guests attended Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, and Westminster Abbey had to be closed for five months to allow extra seating to be built. This time around, it seems likely the maximum number will be somewhere around 2,200; the Abbey’s normal capacity.
The King and Queen Consort will travel to Westminster Abbey in the King’s procession, and return to Buckingham Palace in a larger coronation procession, where they will be joined by other members of the royal family. Present will be members of the British royal family, including the King’s siblings and their families. The Prince and Princess of Wales and their children, George, Charlotte and Louis, will likely take a role.
The streamlined service will likely see royal peers pledge their personal allegiance
to the King in private, with only the Prince of Wales – Charles’ eldest son and heir to the throne – paying his homage to the King during the ceremony.
The line of succession is likely to be subtly but significantly highlighted during proceedings, with the Prince and Princess of Wales reportedly keen for Prince George to play an “official” part – though they remain mindful that the nine-year-old will need to return to school the following Tuesday.
Prince Harry and Meghan, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are thought to have received an invitation despite the rift that has grown since the couple broke away from their royal roles, details of which have been highly publicised in Harry’s recently published memoir Spare and subsequent interviews. A Sussex spokesperson said: “I can confirm the Duke has recently received email correspondence from His Majesty’s office regarding the coronation.
“An immediate decision on whether the Duke and Duchess will attend will not be disclosed by us at this time.”
Anne, The Princess Royal, who was a visible source of stalwart comfort and support for her brother Charles in the very earliest, griefstricken days of his reign, is also expected to take on a ceremonial role during the service, as could the King’s youngest brother, Prince Edward, who was recently instated as Duke of Edinburgh. Prince Andrew, The Duke of York will not be permitted to attend in military dress or take on an official role after being stripped of royal titles in 2019 and forced to step back from royal duties in November 2019 over alleged sex abuse claims, which he has always denied. »
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Royal family: The King with his mother, Queen Elizabeth II (below left); King Edwards Crown (below); The King and Queen Consort (right) in 2018
THE CORONATION OF CHARLES III
Saturday 6 May
The coronation service will take place on the morning of Saturday 6 May, at Westminster Abbey, London, beginning with The King’s Procession from Buckingham Palace. The service will be led by the Archbishop of Canterbury, beginning with the anointing of the King. He will be crowned and enthroned. The Queen Consort will then be crowned. The royal family will then lead a state procession from the Abbey to Buckingham Palace before appearing on the palace balcony. royal.uk
Sunday 7 May
Communities across the UK are invited to join in with the Coronation Big Lunch, organised by the Big Lunch team at the Eden Project, involving street parties and picnics. In the evening, the Coronation Concert will be held at Windsor Castle and attended by representatives of the King and Queen Consort’s charities as well as members of the public. Performers will include UK community choirs as well as pop icons such as Prince’s Trust ambassador Lionel Richie. Unconfirmed reports suggest that Sir Paul McCartney and the Spice Girls may be among other performers. edenprojectcommunities.com
Monday 8 May
The bank holiday celebration will be marked by The Big Help Out initiative. Organised by the Together Coalition – in partnership with The Scouts, the Royal Voluntary Service and faith groups across the UK – the event will encourage people to discover initiatives across their local communities and take part in community service and volunteering. thebighelpout.org.uk
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THE MAN WHO WOULD BE KING
The eldest son of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, Charles Philip Arthur George was born at Buckingham Palace at 9.14pm on 14 November 1948. On 6 February, 1952, at the age of three, he became heir apparent when his mother ascended the throne upon the death of her father, Charles’s grandfather, George VI.
As the eldest child of the Queen, Charles was tutored privately until 1956, when he became the first heir apparent to go to school. During his time at Hill House School in West London, he took up football at the advice of the headmaster, who suggested the other boys would never be deferential to the young prince on the football pitch. Charles later attended Cheam Preparatory School in Hampshire from 1958 and Gordonstoun, Scotland, from 1962. Prince Philip had thrived at the institution in his teenage years but Charles, who was described as a more sensitive youth than his father had been, reportedly described the rigorous school as “Colditz in kilts” – though he did later praise it for teaching him “a great deal about myself and my own abilities and disabilities. It taught me to accept challenges and take the initiative”.
During these years, he spent two terms studying in Australia at Timbertop, Geelong Grammar’s year 9 campus where students board together in a programme that puts emphasis on outdoor education. According to the King, the period was
“by far the best part” of his entire schooling. It was at Timbertop that Charles was effectively removed from his royal duties and allowed to roam the High Country’s vast surrounds with his classmates.
The King later recalled the experience fondly in a speech during one visit to the country. “Part of my own education took place here in Australia,” Charles said during one visit to the country. “Quite frankly, it was by far the best part. While I was here, I had the Pommy bits bashed off me. Like chips off an old block.”
Timbertop taught students a curriculum focused on gruelling hikes, cross-country runs, skiing, solo camping trials and woodcutting. “By God, it was good for the character,” Charles said. Upon his return to Gordonstoun, aged 17, Charles became Head Boy in his final year, just as his father had before him.
In the years after his formative schooling, Charles broke with tradition again by attending university instead of joining the armed forces. He studied archaeology and anthropology at Trinity College, Cambridge University, before switching to history. It was during this time, in 1969, that he was bestowed with the title Prince of Wales and, in the second year of his degree, he spent a term studying Welsh history and language at University College of Wales in Aberystwyth.
Charles’s investiture was held shortly before his graduation, in a televised ceremony at Caernarfon Castle on 1 July 1969. The young Prince was crowned by his mother, making his
vows in both Welsh and English – an astutely diplomatic move by the 20-year-old, as the investiture was particularly divisive in Wales and held amid protests and even threats of bombing.
Charles took on his first official royal duties in June 1965, visiting a student garden party at the Palace of Holyroodhouse and becoming the first royal to speak in the house of Lords since 1884.
In 1971 Prince Charles – who had been given flying instruction from the Royal Air Force during his second year at Cambridge –flew himself to RAF Cranwell in Lincolnshire to train as a jet pilot.
Later that year he embarked on a naval career, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather George VI, as well as his great-uncle and mentor, Lord Louis Mountbatten. He served on HMS Norfolk – a guided missile destroyer – and two frigates, before qualifying as a helicopter pilot in 1974 – adding to his jet fight pilot qualification – and flying Wessex helicopters with 845 Naval Air Squadron from the commando aircraft carrier HMS Hermes. In 1976, he finished up his military career by taking command of coastal minehunter HMS Bronington. Despite leaving the military, the King has continued to work closely with the Armed Forces and in 2012, Queen Elizabeth II awarded him the highest rank in all three services – Field Marshal, Admiral of the Fleet and Marshal of the Royal Air Force. Both his sons, Princes William and Harry, would go on to become military helicopter pilots like their father. »
53 Married Related Divorced THE
Heir apparent: The young Prince of Wales in the gardens of Kensington Palace (left)
HOUSE OF WINDSOR
FAMILY TIES
a young man, Charles quickly became known as the world’s most eligible bachelor, romantically linked to several aristocratic women. Their ranks included Lady Jane Wellesley, Amanda Knatchbull, Lady Sarah Spencer and – most notably – Camilla Shand, now the Queen Consort.
It was in 1977 that Charles first met 16-yearold Lady Diana Spencer while visiting her home – Althorp – with her elder sister, Charles’s former flame Lady Sarah.
In 1980, the pair met again and Diana, then a nursery teacher’s assistant in London’s Pimlico, soon began accompanying Charles to events at Balmoral Castle and Sandringham House. The relationship attracted intense media speculation and it was his father, the Duke of Edinburgh, who reportedly urged Charles to propose.
The engagement became official in February 1981 – Charles famously answering “Whatever ‘in love’ means” when quizzed about his feelings – and they married at St Paul’s Cathedral on 29 July. They made their home at Kensington Palace and went on to have two children – Prince William Arthur Philip Louis, born on 21 June 1982, and Prince Henry Charles Albert David, known as Harry, two years later on 15 September 1984.
But within five years, speculation about Charles and Diana’s incompatibility was rife. Both found affection outside of the marriage – by 1986, Charles had resumed his relationship with Camilla (then Mrs Parker Bowles, having married retired British Army officer Andrew Parker Bowles while Charles was stationed abroad) and Diana’s alleged paramours included cavalry officer James Hewitt.
The couple separated in December 1992 with the marriage ultimately dissolved in 1996. In the intervening years, the relationship would be the subject of intense media interest and scandal. In 1994, Charles spoke about the breakdown of the marriage as part of a television interview with broadcaster Jonathan Dimbleby; Diana, in turn, revealed marital problems in a famous BBC Panorama interview with Martin Bashir – who
has since come under fire for using deception and forgery to attain the interview. Less than a year later, Diana was tragically killed in a car crash in Paris on 31 August 1997.
Two years later, in 1999, Charles and Camilla made their first public appearance together at a birthday party at the Ritz London. It was the first stage of a PR push to slowly improve public acceptance of Camilla, known as ‘Operation PB’. In 2000, Camilla attended her first event with the Queen present, and began to steadily develop her future royal role through charity work around osteoporosis, promoting literacy, and supporting survivors of sexual assault and domestic abuse.
Charles and Camilla’s decades-long romance culminated in their marriage on 9 April 2005 – the celebration having had to be postponed by a day so that Prince Charles could represent the Queen at the funeral of Pope John Paul II in Vatican City.
Because they were both divorced, Charles and Camilla opted not for a church service but instead formalised their relationship with a private civil marriage ceremony followed by a service of prayer and dedication. Camilla received the title of Duchess of Cornwall following their union.
The civil ceremony, at the Windsor Guildhall in Berkshire, was attended by the rest of the immediate royal family, including Princes William – who acted as the best man – and Harry, and Camilla’s children Tom (Prince Charles’ godson) – and Laura. The Queen and Duke of Edinburgh were not in attendance but did, however, join the couple afterwards at the televised service of blessing, conducted by the Archbishop of Canterbury Rowan Williams and attended by 800 guests, including all the senior members of the royal family, at St George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle. The Queen and Prince Philip also hosted a reception for the newlyweds at the castle later that day.
While some reports suggest the Queen had at first had something of a strained relationship with Camilla, by the end of her long life Her Majesty had demonstrated her unstinting support for her daughter-in-law, writing in a statement to mark her Platinum Jubilee in 2022: “When, in the
fullness of time, my son Charles becomes King, I know you will give him and his wife Camilla the same support that you have given me; and it is my sincere wish that, when that time comes, Camilla will be known as Queen Consort as she continues her own loyal service.”
King Charles would later echo this wish in his first address as Monarch. “I count on the loving help of my darling wife, Camilla. In recognition of her own loyal public service since our marriage 17 years ago, she becomes my Queen Consort,” he said.
Charles has had the joy of seeing both his sons follow him up the aisle. In 2011, his eldest son, William, married his long-time sweetheart Kate Middleton in a lavish service at Westminster Abbey. The proud father took on the music selection for the day, including pieces from his own wedding to Diana in the mix as a touching tribute to their late mother.
“I love trying to organise some interesting, I hope, pieces of music for certain occasions – particularly for weddings,” he told Alan Titchmarsh for Classic FM in 2020. “I know my eldest son was quite understanding and was perfectly happy for me to suggest a few pieces for their wedding.”
At the reception for the newlywed Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Charles welcomed Kate into the family, describing her as the daughter he never had and wishing the couple a lifetime of happiness together. “We are lucky to have her,” he said of his daughter-in-law.
Charles had a similar hand in the wedding of his younger son, seven years later. The musically inclined royal also helped Harry choose the gospel choir and orchestra that performed at his Windsor wedding to Suits actress Meghan Markle in May 2018. The ceremony included many poignant and highly personal moments, blending UK and American religious styles, as well as Meghan’s request for Charles to walk her down the aisle in her father’s stead.
In the years since, Charles has become proud grandfather to the Prince and Princess of Wales’s three children – George, seven-year-old Charlotte, and Louis, four – and the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s son Archie, three, and one-year-old Lilibet, named after the Queen.
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Looking to the future: (l-r) The King and Queen Consort, The Prince and Princess of Wales’ wedding in 2011; The Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s wedding in 2018; Charles is president of the WWF
A LEGACY OF CHANGE
The longest serving heir apparent in Britain’s history, Charles has often been a controversial figure within both royal and public circles, due perhaps in part to his outspoken nature and determination to create a modern monarchy that represents the UK today.
In his early years he was widely and unkindly mocked for his outspoken views on architecture and the environment, decrying modern building styles and talking to plants. In 1969, the young Prince of Wales wrote a letter to Prime Minister Harold Wilson about the decline of salmon stocks in the Scottish rivers. “People are notoriously short-sighted when it comes to questions of wildlife,” he wrote.
“At the beginning, everyone thought he was crackers, the mad prince who had these strange ideas. They wrote him off completely,” Penny Junor, a biographer who has written volumes about Charles and the royal family, told the Washington Post in 2021.
“He’s been saying these things for 50 years, but world has caught up to Charles, hasn’t it?” she said. “He’s certainly not a crank now.”
The King has more recently been praised for his forward-thinking approach to environmental causes. His personal carbon footprint is admirable, his own Highgrove House estate having been an eco-friendly haven for more than 35 years and boasting a sustainably grown garden and shop, wildflower conservation and is powered by 90% renewable energies. He famously converted his 50-year-old Aston Martin to run on waste materials.
On the wider stage, in 2020, Prince Charles established the Sustainable Markets Initiative, aiming to kickstart action towards a greener future. Now, more than 500 CEOs are part of the initiative, including the heads of some of the world’s biggest financial institutions.
He also helped launch the Campaign for Wool initiative, whose mission is to educate consumers about the benefits of wool, a material which biodegrades naturally, meaning it doesn’t accumulate in landfill and oceans.
His passion for environmentalism took
centre-stage in November 2022 as he hosted a reception at Buckingham Palace for politicians and global leaders to discuss tackling climate change ahead of the UN climate summit Cop27 in Sharm El-Sheikh – though, as monarch, he did not attend the summit itself.
Environmental causes are among the King’s charitable patronages, and he is president of the UK branch of wildlife charity WWF. In 2014 he joined forces with Prince William ahead of a high-level summit on the illegal wildlife trade in London hosted by the UK government, to call for an end to the endangered wildlife trade.
“We have come together, as father and son, to lend our voices to the growing global effort to combat the illegal wildlife trade – a trade that has reached such unprecedented levels of killing and related violence that it now poses a grave threat not only to the survival of some of the world’s most treasured species, but also to economic and political stability in many areas around the world,” they said.
Another major area of interest for Charles is social mobility. Among the 20 charities he has set up, and many more he patrons, possibly his greatest professional triumph is the Prince’s Trust.
The King founded the Trust in 1976 to help disadvantaged young people in the UK gain access to education, jobs and training. He set up the charity using his Navy severance pay to fund 21 pilot initiatives – including providing a grant to a 19-year-old woman to run a social centre for London’s Haggerston Housing Estate. The Trust’s Enterprise Programme was launched in 1983 and, within three years, had helped 1,000 young people launch their own businesses.
Along with fundraising concerts and famous ambassadors – including England football manager Gareth Southgate, Bond star Naomie Harris, and musician Will.i.am, who donated £500,000 to the Trust for STEM programmes in 2011 – the Trust also offers a range of courses and projects for young people. Its latest is the Class of Covid initiative, helping to support young people impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic. To date, the Prince’s
Trust has helped 1,000,000 young people aged 11-30.
So, as we get ready to observe the making of history in this very modern coronation, what kind of King will Charles be? In a continued cost of living crisis, will Charles III prove a frugal monarch? As an advocate of creating a “slimmed down monarchy”, reports suggest that he may soon present a streamlined firm of just seven key working royals – thought to include the Queen Consort, the Prince and Princess of Wales, The Princess Royal, and the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh.
And what will his impact be now his passion for adding his voice publicly on matters of finance and the environment are necessarily curtailed by the crown? Outspoken about many issues despite the Crown’s position of staunch neutrality, the former Prince of Wales’s involvement in politics was exposed to the public when a decade’s worth of private letters were released in 2015 – the so-called Black Spider Memos – in which he lobbied MPs on issues ranging from farming, genetic modification, global warming, social deprivation, and planning and architecture.
As Charles III prepares for his coronation, all eyes will be on how his contemporary court adapts to – and remains relevant for –today’s UK. Speaking about his role in public life, Charles has said: “The most important thing will be to have concern for people and give some form of leadership.
“It’s a fascinating job and I’m looking forward to the future.”
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IT'S A FASCINATING JOB AND I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO THE FUTURE
SAGE ADVICE
The Raymond Blanc Gardening School’s August Bernstein gets to the root of our growing passion for plants
Words: Michelle Johnson
Just five years ago, August Bernstein had never so much as opened a packet of seeds. But then the former flight attendant had a green revelation, discovering a passion for gardening that led her on a journey from amateur grower to head tutor of the Raymond Blanc Gardening School.
Based at Raymond’s Oxfordshire hotel and restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons – which is known for living and breathing the chef’s garden-to-plate philosophy – the school is yet another way for guests to really get to grips with all that goes into some of the country’s finest cuisine. For August, it is even more indicative of a growing trend of people working on their own connection with nature and discovering the joys and trials of nurturing their own produce.
In fact, reports show that 35% of those with gardens now grow their own vegetables, fruit or herbs, while an incredible 87% want to bring more wildlife into their gardens. Similarly, our love of houseplants has also risen dramatically in recent years – particularly among
millennials (those aged between 25-40) – with 35% of Brits purchasing houseplants to create an industry valued at more than £7.6bn.
Keen to help guests expand their expertise, August offers a range of courses throughout the year including Grow you own Vegetables, Garden to Plate, Summer and Winter Fruit Pruning, Seed to Bouquet, Botanicals and Cocktails, ‘No Dig’ Gardening, and Micro Herbs and Edible Flowers.
“The organic kitchen gardens at Le Manoir have been a labour of love for Raymond and our team for over 30 years, unearthing the most delicious vegetable treasures,” says August. “For me, having the gardens at our very fingertips as our tasting playground for the day really brings to life our garden-to-plate story. Our guests are led on an adventure to explore, sow and taste the freshest seasonal produce, discovering unusual flavours to take home and bring to life within their own gardens.”
Here, August shares her love for all things horticultural and tips for how we can all benefit from being more green-fingered. »
WELLNESS
Greenfingered goodness: August Bernstein (left); garden produce is used in Le Manoir’ s culinary masterpieces (previous and above)
August, please tell us about your work with The Raymond Blanc Gardening School?
I have the ultimate luxury of continually seeking and creating new, exciting gardening experiences to share with our guests. I believe in a hands-on growing experience: connecting with the soil, sowing seeds of the year to come, and really showcasing the beauty and benefits of gardening. Our vision is to become a place where we can share our passion for the natural world and celebrate the beautiful art of plants.
The school is in the most beautiful setting, right in the heart of Le Manoir’s gardens, and is driven by Raymond’s passion for garden-to-plate gastronomy and sustainable cultivation techniques. Our courses run year-round in the Victorian-style Hartley Botanic Glasshouse, which overlooks beds of succulent produce. New for 2023, we have introduced the art of tree pruning with a day in the orchard, grow-your-own cocktail botanicals and cultivating edible flowers that look as beautiful in your garden as in your cooking.
What have been the physical and mental benefits of gardening for you?
Gardening has turned my whole world upside down. I was an air hostess for 20 years until I opened my first packet of seeds just five years ago. The magic of planting a seed and watching it grow was absolutely mesmerising and sent me on an adventure in the world of horticulture. I have become more connected with nature and eager to understand the vital, interconnected relationships between plants, soil, animals, insects and how our food becomes a part of this intriguing web. I feel gardening has given me purpose in life. If I have a problem to resolve, I go outside to begin weeding and, somehow, I start to see things more clearly. I’ve never been one for the gym but two hours outside in the garden moving compost feels like a week’s worth of workouts, along with a huge sense of accomplishment. I have also seen a huge change in my children’s eating habits since growing food. My two girls are often found hiding in our secret garden munching on a giant dahlia or plucking fresh peas from the pod.
Are more people becoming green-fingered?
I have seen a huge rise in the popularity of gardening. I think there are many elements that have triggered this transition to nature. Our current climate is urging people to eat local, and what could be more local than growing your own? By growing salad, herbs and vegetables you can drastically reduce your waste and carbon footprint. During lockdown, many people began to rediscover the beauty of outside spaces, tiptoeing into the wonderful world of plants to pass the time at home – and once you begin this journey your connection and respect deepens and grows.
What would you suggest to guests beginning to grow their own vegetable or herb garden?
I would say get out there and get growing. Sow those seeds and embrace the failures; there will, no doubt, be many along the way. The failures can be the best bits, as you learn the most from your mistakes and it spurs you on to understand why and how you can do better next time. I’m so lucky to now be in the position where I can share my gardening enthusiasm and encourage our guests on a daily basis to believe in themselves and pave their own garden adventures.
We have many guests who have embarked on their first allotment journeys and wish to learn about the most delicious varieties of vegetables to grow. I’ve also seen a huge rise in interest in soil health, which is a subject close to my heart as it is the basis of life itself. This interest has prompted me and the team to create our new Soil to Plate course, where we really celebrate and delve into the interconnected relationships beneath the surface.
What are some of the best ways to get started in these spring months?
From March onward is the perfect time to begin sowing seeds. The daylight hours are getting longer and the days are getting warmer. If you [only have a small space], try growing micro herbs. This is a produce very dear to our hearts at Le Manoir; we
grow these delicious, nutrient-packed baby leaves 365 days a year. Just one leaf can enhance your plate and take your culinary creations to the next level. Start with something quick and simple, like radish to add a bit of spice or beetroot to bring an earthy flavor to your dish.
Have you noted a similar rise in the popularity of indoor plants?
There has been a huge rise in popularity for house plants, especially in urban areas, and I really believe this loops back to the connection with wellbeing and nature. If you can create a natural, aesthetically pleasing environment in your home using plants, you are surrounding yourself with living organisms that are transferring positive energy, in the form of oxygen, into your home. Plants have a great physical and mental impact. Some liken the feeling with plants to those who have connections with pets: you nurture, love and care for your plants and pets, and when they thrive there is no better satisfaction. For this reason, I am really excited to be in talks with some houseplant experts to add to our collection of guest speakers at The Raymond Blanc Gardening School – watch this space.
What tips would you give to readers who want to garden in their homes and grounds?
I don’t follow trends; I follow my heart. It’s all well and good following the fashion, but if you don’t love it don’t grow it! I personally want to wake up in the morning, walk outside and see plants that lift my mood and make me smile. Fill your space growing food you want to eat, as it’s very easy to get carried away with weird and wonderful varieties that ultimately taste horrendous. I know because I make this mistake every year – I still don't listen to my own advice, and fill my space with ridiculous varieties [of plants] that I have no idea what to do with. Then again, they do make me smile – and that’s the beauty of following your heart.
belmond.com
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WELLNESS
CULTURE OF CONTRASTS
From the culinary delights of multicultural Lima to the dizzying heights of Machu Picchu, we explore the dramatic landscapes of Peru
Words: Gabriel Power
Standing amid the pre-Incan salt mines of Maras, had you told me that the mountains ahead of me delineating the boundaries of the Sacred Valley were constructed from matcha, I might well have believed you. Here, in the death throes of the dry season, the impressive peaks have gone upwards of six months without rain and now visibly beg for water; their usually lush, verdant vegetation has taken on a dusty quality that looks like it would come off on the fingers of the gods in a fine powder, were they to reach down and touch.
It’s my ninth day in Peru and I’m stranded at the crossroads of exhaustion and exhilaration. By the time my guide Gina and I reached this unique vantage point overlooking the Sacred Valley, in which a large chunk of the famed Inca Trail sits, we have covered a remarkable amount of ground across the Andean highlands of Peru. Forming an idiosyncratic yet inseparable trio with our driver Jesus, we’ve trekked around the eerily circular Incan ruins of Moray, sipped coca tea to stave off altitude sickness in the markets of Cusco, and we’ve scaled the mighty Machu Picchu, the mountain upon which the iconic citadel of the same name is perched.
This enormous country – the 19th largest on Earth – is a Pollock painting of unforgiving terrain. A streak of ultra-high-altitude Andean peaks runs down the centre, flanked by uninhabited cloud forests and dense jungles to the east while, to the west, one of the world’s driest deserts encompasses much of the nation’s Pacific coast and capital city, Lima.
Peru had, in my mind at least, always seemed a destination designed for hardcore outdoor types; those unflustered by the extremes of the natural world. But I had arrived on Peruvian shores with the aim of investigating the prospect
of this country as a high-end luxury destination, completely unaware of the ease with which this angle could be sold.
I began my adventure in Lima. Admittedly, I knew nothing of Peru’s capital city at first, so underrepresented is it within contemporary travel journalism, and I was so apprehensive about my impending travels to the punishing altitudes of Cusco and the Sacred Valley that I initially let much of it slip by. But, from the window of my 23rd-floor room at the five-star Marriott that first evening, this 11-million-strong city became an ocean of spirited nightlife as twilight took hold. I had to get down there.
I made my way through the upmarket Miraflores and Barranco districts as night fell, and by the time I had reached the Parque 7 de Junio, the city had erupted into life, the bustle galvanised by a prominent al fresco food tradition gifted to the city by its extremely scarce rainfall — often as little as 6mm per year. It was here in Miraflores, long before I had reached the natural beauty of the Sacred Valley, that I discovered what should be one of Peru’s biggest drawing points: its frankly stunning food.
Peruvian fare is one of the most unusual national cuisines to be found anywhere on the planet. Where many cultures are fiercely protective of their culinary traditions, from ingredients to preparation processes, Peru has effectively invited the world into its kitchen; even the most beloved national dishes borrow
ingredients and cooking techniques from their sizeable immigrant communities in a manner that reflects a historically rather harmonious multiculturalism.
The result is deliciously peculiar. Starting at iconic Miraflores eatery Panchita, I sampled the classic lomo saltado (below), a national favourite featuring typically Peruvian ingredients of beef, onions and potatoes, but stir-fried and served swimming in a reduction containing a significant helping of soy sauce. This PeruvianChinese hybrid cuisine even has its own name – Chifa – with entire restaurants dedicated to its dishes. Meanwhile, Nikkei is the name bestowed upon a similar melding of Peruvian and Japanese culinary stylings, which I gorged on in the form of deep-fried squid and rice at the hidden gem Lobo de Otani. But my gastronomic journey truly peaked when I pivoted toward the more purist Peruvian offerings available, heading to famed joint AlFresco and opting for a cilantro trout ceviche so immaculate I had to stop myself from bursting into song in the restaurant’s garden. »
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PERUVIAN FARE IS ONE OF THE MOST UNUSUAL NATIONAL CUISINES TO BE FOUND ANYWHERE ON THE PLANET
Wild landscapes: Machu Picchu (previous); Peru’s capital, Lima (right)
HISTORY AT ITS PEAK
If travelling from far afield as Europe, taking in Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley necessitates a trip of two deeply contrasting halves. Departing Lima, I left in my wake a ruthlessly cosmopolitan city; during the day gently bubbling with an energy that goes critical after sundown, its cultured nightlife coaxing out snappily dressed teenagers, boisterous young professionals and 15-strong extended families in equal measure.
But to arrive in Cusco an hour or so later is to gate-crash the crescendo of colonialism’s great unfinished symphony. Not purely of Conquistador heritage, nor serving as a purist bastion of the Quechuan culture which came before, this ultra-high-altitude city is a perplexing and charming blend of the two, exemplified in everything from the street food to the religious architecture. Every street in the Old Town, for instance, is lined with gorgeous 16th-century Spanish townhouses, still proudly displaying the ancient Incan granite foundations on which they were built.
Cusco sits at 3,400m above sea level; compared to sea-level Lima, the oxygen is perceptively thinner, the atmosphere drier and the sunshine more brutal. Without an adequate rest period or supplemental oxygen, remaining at this altitude is considered hazardous enough that a whistlestop tour of San Pedro Market was immediately followed by a 50km drive across the Altiplano Plateau and down to Urubamba, in the deepest crevice of the Sacred Valley, where I would stay at 2,900m for three full nights to acclimatise.
Urubamba is simply wonderful. In the shadow of the frightening Chicón Mountain and its murky blue-grey glacier, I wandered its narrowgridded streets upon arrival, sampling coca and muña teas as I weaved in and out of antique and souvenir shops, brushing alpaca wool table runners and Inka Cola-branded hoodies from my sunburnt face as I went. In the evening I returned to the main square, knocked a few IPAs back at the genuinely remarkable Cerveza Willkamayu – a stunning microbrewery housed in a colonial-era family home and only accessible via a secret doorbell – before heading to Tambo del Inka, one of the finest hotels in Peru.
After checking in in the cavernous black-stone lobby, I sidled open the door to my room and was greeted with the extraordinary sight of an enormous room with two king size beds, a walkin closet and a balcony with a private view over
the Vilcanota River, the Sacred Valley’s lifeforce. Days could have gone by on that balcony and I wouldn’t have noticed; the trickling water of the river simply washed time away with it, whether I was languishing in the morning sun or stargazing at night, failing to recognise any of the Southern Hemisphere’s constellations. Those without private balconies could still do the same in the resort’s heated outdoor pool.
At the on-site Hawa Restaurant, I got the chance to try everything from tender alpaca meat to the rather more acquired taste of guinea pig, before the start of what would be an epic trip to Machu Picchu by train. We drove to the nearby town of Ollantaytambo – itself known for an Incan archaeological site that would be globally famous were it not just up the road from one of the Seven Wonders of the World –and boarded the PeruRail service which would slowly snake out of the lowest extremity of the Sacred Valley and toward the fog-laden cloud forests of Machu Picchu.
This journey alone is spectacular enough to warrant the trip from London. The mountain peaks rose higher and higher as we descended through the valley and away from civilisation, the parched grass of the highlands giving way to something akin to Jurassic World, dense with tropical foliage dripping with weeks’ worth of rainfall. The contrast from dusty Ollantaytambo seemed impossibly stark; as we pulled into Aguas Calientes, the final town on the Inca Trail and the gateway to Machu Picchu, it felt like we had traversed half the globe, and now disembarked in what was effectively a jungle. Monkeys scuttled about in an undergrowth punctuated by electrifying orchids as waterfalls overflowed with briny mineral water.
At 5am the next morning I rose from my bed at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo, one of the more luxurious hotels in Aguas Calientes, ready
to finish our journey by bus and on foot. Gina and I climbed step after treacherous step until she told me to stop at a seemingly peculiar spot. As we waited on what looked like the edge of a cliff, staring blankly into an entirely opaque cloud. Suddenly, the clouds tore apart, stretching and breaking up like cobweb caught on the mountain, revealing the great Machu Picchu in a manner in which I will never forget; silently perched atop an angular peak as it had done for 600 years, jutting out from an impossibly deep sea of shifting, stirring clouds. The scene was both intensely kinetic and serenely static. It was eerily, agonisingly beautiful.
Peru could scarcely have offered a more generous parting gift. I realised the whole trip had been one big life-affirming journey. Every day I had spent in this country had offered me at least one moment that gave me chills, borne of a strikingly wide range of scenarios – be it the grandiosity of the pre-Incan ruins of Huaca Pucllana temple or the honestly life-changing tiradito I ate in a Cusco Nikkei restaurant.
A maelstrom of contrasting landscapes and cultures, Peru is a country without equal; an implausibly perfect holiday destination that would leave even the most seasoned traveller’s head spinning. This sleeping giant of South America, simply by being its extraordinary self, is demanding not to be missed.
peru.travel
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TRAVEL
Sacred Valley: Cusco (left) is the ancient capital of the Incan Empire; The Urubanba river (right) leads to Machu Picchu
OUT OF THE ORDINARY
If you fancy a spa treatment that’s a little bit more adventurous than the massage table, look no further. Tempus explores the new treatments and retreats to whet your wellness appetite this season
Words: Judy Cogan
As the year hurtles along at an extraordinarily fast pace, you may be approaching spring already feeling spun out and in need of a reset. For many of us, though, what’s needed to shed stress and aid rejuvenation is something a little more ‘out there’ than a hot stone massage.
From a new CBD-centric retreat in Thailand to animal interventions to the acupuncturist the London A-list have on speed dial, we’ve compiled your ultimate little black book of spas, clinics and retreats offering a range of therapies to delight even the most seasoned feelgood aficionado.
FIVE ELEMENTS ACUPUNCTURE
Centred in the ancient Chinese theory that mind, body and spirit are made up of the five elements –wood, fire, earth, metal and water – this therapy is designed to create much-needed balance. Ross Barr (right), a registered acupuncturist and member of the British Acupuncture Council, specialises in fertility and wellness, and his five elements acupuncture assists with everything from stress and sleep issues to digestive problems, hair loss and anxiety. The Duchess of Sussex, Megan Markle, is a fan, and a long list of celebrity clientele flock to his London outposts – including Claridge’s, Mayfair, and the Cowshed Spa in Shoreditch. »
rossbarr.com
EQUINE THERAPY
Give yourself free rein to seek solace and clarity – among a herd of 27 semi-feral horses. Nihi, a luxurious resort on the Indonesian island of Sumba, hosts Retreat and Conquer (left); an Equine-Assisted Psychotherapy (EAP) getaway led by British-Flemish professor of psychology and psychotherapy Dr Andreas Liefooghe. It’s the brainchild of renowned London-based horse therapy centre Operation Centaur, and aids everything from anxiety to coping with grief. The intensive programme combines group therapy sessions with practical exercises with the horses and promises (and delivers) “life changing” results. The best bit? There’s no requirement to ride or have any prior equine expertise. And rave reviews mean the format is being trotted out around the world – Nihi is the first five-day retreat to launch, with Mustique, the UAE and Africa saddling up to offer similar retreats later this year.
retreatandconquer.com
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PANCHAKARMA
Gwyneth Paltrow swears by this intensive ancient Ayurvedic programme that promises a serious detox. Traditionally, the cleansing and rejuvenation process takes 28 days of hands-on treatment, detoxifying teas and a rigid diet to purify the body. For the time-starved, however, Panchakarma is accessible in neat, week-long retreats. Modern Ayurveda expert Martha Soffer is a Panchakarma specialist based in Los Angeles and her spa, Surya, is one of the only centres in the US to offer it. Closer to home, book in for treatments at The Ayurvedic Clinic, London.
theayurvedicclinic.com
CBD RETREAT
In line with the recent legalisation of cannabis use in Thailand, Aleenta Phuket Resort and Spa (previous page) has launched a CBD stress and pain reduction retreat – one of the first hotels in the country to offer such treatments for therapeutic use. The CBD-based programme, curated to fit individual needs, is targeted at everything from treating and healing pain to stress and sleep management and restoring your sense of self. Expect restorative cannabisinfused oil massages, hemp seed oil facials, bath and body treatments, immersive yoga (left), sound baths and meditations, and a personalised plant-based diet.
aleenta.com
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FACIAL CUPPING
Rooted in ancient healing traditions, facial cupping involves gentle suction to the face to draw blood flow towards the skin surface and encourage the formation of new blood vessels. The process gently tones the facial muscles, boosts collagen production and stimulates the lymphatic system. London-based Ada Ooi –whose celebrity fan base includes actors Rooney Mara, Emma Mackey and Ariana DeBose – is the traditional Chinese medicine practitioner to visit. She will work to regulate your qi (energy life flow) by way of the body’s meridian networks, releasing stagnated energy, toxins and emotions… all great for getting mind and body back on track. »
adaooi.com
HYPERBARIC OXYGEN THERAPY
You may well have heard about the benefits to your health and wellbeing of lowering yourself into a high-tech oxygen chamber. And now you can try it for yourself. Hyperbaric oxygen therapy is a noninvasive treatment that involves breathing pure oxygen inside a pressurised chamber. Facilities are springing up all around the world and it has become one of the most popular treatments at The Wellness Lab in London’s Knightsbridge (left). Simple but powerfully effective, increased oxygen levels can promote healing and rejuvenation, reduce inflammation and boost the immune system. It’s administered by trained professionals in a comfortable, relaxing and pampering space –a little bit of luxury that’s also good for you.
thewellnesslab.com
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WELLNESS
SYNAESTHESIA
This 80-minute treatment created by Lush Spa London’s co-founder Mark Constantine reinvents the massage by playing with the five senses. During a preliminary consultation you choose a number of themesto create a specific state of mind. For example, Humour might elicit a giggle while Relax can lead to deep sleep. New themes such as Belonging, Empowerment and Hope have recently been added – all feelings that can be achieved through a multi-sensory experience incorporating a variety of smells, sounds, textures and pressure points.
lush.com
OBAGI
CHEMICAL PEEL
Chemical peels date back as far as ancient Egypt, when a mix of lactic acid and sour milk was used to achieve smoother, more radiant skin. Back in the present day, the deeply rejuvenating Obagi Blue Peel Radiance peel at The Clinic Holland Park in London (left) takes this ancient and potent practice to a new level. A course of four to six peels provides the best results. A salicylic-acid-based solution is applied to remove the damaged outer layers of skin (usually the face, neck and hands) to banish blemishes, acne scars, wrinkles and sun damage while tightening pores and leaving your skin with a natural – and thoroughly modern – glow.
theclinichollandpark.com
HYPNOTHERAPY
MIND MASSAGE
If you need to switch off the constant whir of modern life, consider a mind massage. Ursula James (left), a London-based clinical hypnotherapist and patron of Anxiety UK, performs a targeted half-hour hypnosis session tailored to boost your wellbeing. This restorative and deeply relaxing process is designed to help you let go of stress, calm anxiety and recharge your energy, leaving space for a more positive mindset. Ursula – whose popular weekly podcast, HypnoSOS, is available on all the usual platforms – has lectured on the power of hypnosis at the UK’s most prestigious medical schools including Oxford and Cambridge. Just what the doctor ordered.
ursulajames.co.uk
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OZONE THERAPY
If you’re not afraid to embrace the dark the side of alternative therapies, this may be the one for you. During this vaguely vampiresque treatment, medical-grade ozone – a mixture of purest ozone and purest oxygen with remarkable bactericidal, fungicidal and virostatic properties – is either infused into a saline solution or mixed with a patient’s own blood and then injected into the body. Why? Ozone is a naturally occurring gas made up of three oxygen atoms and is believed to hold powerful antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. It is thought to help improve immune function and promote overall health and wellness.
thewellnesslab.com
VINOTHERAPY
Usually, one tastes local wines while on holiday, rather than bathing in them. Not so at Lopota Resort & Spa in eastern Georgia (left). Lopota Forest Spa offers an Elixir of Youth treatment where therapists take byproducts of the resort’s Kakhetian wine (produced at the on-site winery) and pour them over your body in what’s called vinotherapy. The pulp and pips have exfoliating qualities proved to help reduce the signs of ageing. Toast your wellbeing with this relaxing and rejuvenating treatment while enjoying the Kakheti region, an area of outstanding natural beauty with lush greenery, vast forests and glassy lakes, and a backdrop of the picturesque Caucasus Mountains – perfect for hiking and cycling, or just indulging in a peaceful rest far from the madding crowd.
lopotaresort.com
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WORTH THE WEIGHT
Roar Fitness founder and former Olympic athlete Sarah Lindsay shares her tips for making the most of your workout whatever your fitness goals
Words: Judy Cogan
Sarah Lindsay was sitting in the back of a friend’s Bentley in central London when the idea struck. The British car designer’s signature champagne upholstery in butter-soft leather caught her eye. “I thought this would be amazing in my gym,” she recalls. “This specific shade of leather is incredible. We have to have it.”
She immediately put the wheels in motion to make it happen. “We managed to get in contact with an exec at Bentley and they gave us the colour code. Then we had our Bentley-inspired gym equipment made. It has this gorgeous, crossed diamond stitch and looks more like luxury furniture than workout equipment.”
The three-time Olympian former speed skater qualified as a personal trainer in 2002 and soon became one of the UK’s most in-demand celebrity trainers with clientele including Ellie Goulding, Graham Norton and Dame Kelly Holmes. Officially retiring from professional athletics in 2010, she joined forces with leading body transformation specialist Rich Phillipps to launch Roar Fitness with three London-based sites and, most recently, a fourth in Dubai, offering metabolism-boosting weight training plans.
Getting the luxury aesthetics right was important and Sarah tapped into her experience training over the years to create her “perfect, dream-scenario” gym. “I really learned the trade,” she says. “I worked out what was done well and what was missing in the industry. Now I walk into my gyms and I’m like, ‘Oh wow. We did this, that’s amazing’.”
The 42-year-old has since built a solid reputation by delivering consistent, jaw-dropping results that help transform her client’s lives. “Until they get there, people don’t realise how good it feels to be physically strong and how that’s going to cross over into all areas of their life,” she says, adding: “But I know it’s really hard to be motivated on a daily basis.”
Taking inspiration from her background as a professional athlete, she has recruited a line-up of top industry experts – nutritionists, therapists, strength coaches and personal trainers included – to keep people coming back and those positive results rolling in.
“I think having that competitive background ends up being part of who you are. I’m always working towards a goal and it’s the reason we designed the
gym with a team approach. That’s what I had as an athlete, all these different specialists looking after me.”
Expect to be allocated a qualified nutrition coach, personal trainer and admin manager on signing up, who will keep your bespoke eight- to 12-week plan on track. “Ultimately people come in for results and you can’t leave anything to chance,” Sarah explains.
“Every rep, set, weight a person does is recorded so it can be progressed every session. You can’t just exercise and hope for the best, it’s very specific and highly organised.”
Here Sarah shares her tips on how to embrace the gym (and weights) and reap the benefits this year.
Live longer and stronger
“Weight training isn’t specific to one type of person. Whatever your goal is, being stronger will benefit that. If you are working towards being a better runner, for example, you’ll be less likely to get injured, you’ll be faster and more powerful if you are strong. We don’t believe in a one-size-fits-all trainer so our team members all come from different backgrounds from Olympic and professional athletes to dancers and bodybuilding competitors.”
An act of self-love
“Training is the ultimate act of self love. We want you to see you’re taking time out of your day, spending money and investing emotions because you care about yourself and love your body – not because you hate it. It doesn’t take long to make progress and reap the benefits. As soon as the gym becomes part of your everyday routine it makes you feel so good. The hardest part is taking the first step.”
Don’t be scared
“Weight training can seem scary because people think it’s dangerous. They think of big heavy equipment being thrown around the gym. We recognise weight training can be intimidating to newcomers, but that’s why we make people feel welcome and safe. It’s actually done in a very slow and controlled manner. When your trainer is making sure you’re doing everything correctly, you’re not going to get injured. You’re more likely to pull a muscle tripping over a curb jogging than doing weights. It’s not as scary as people think and everybody has to start somewhere.”
You won’t bulk up
“If you worry weightlifting will make you bulky – good luck! Some people gain muscle easier than others and it can come down to genetic disposition, but it is usually a very deliberate process that certainly doesn’t happen overnight. You have to train really hard for a certain amount of reps and sets and strictly eat for that purpose as well. I train all the time and I fight hard to hang on to every pound of muscle I gain.”
Mind over matter
“If you’re struggling mentally, it’s hard to feel motivated. A lot of people suffer ups and downs and so when you’re feeling good that’s the time to start exercising and get into a healthy routine. This means when you’re not feeling great the discipline ingrained in you will keep you going to the gym and you’ll feel better. You need those endorphins and the dopamine that are missing when you’re feeling depressed and anxious. People who exercise regularly can see those benefits and so keep it up.”
Put yourself first
“When you’re working really hard and putting lots of effort into your workout you’re not thinking about what just happened in the office that day or what’s coming up next at home. It’s time for yourself and ultimately a privilege to be able to go to the gym. No one enjoys the pain of training or getting sweaty and out of breath or having their thighs burn. But they do really enjoy the benefits and how it makes you feel. You just have to get past that barrier.”
Exercise anywhere
“Many people, including myself, don’t like going to new gyms when travelling. Hotel gyms are usually under equipped and cramped. We offer Roar at Home, an on-demand platform with live classes led by a team of expert instructors. So you can join in no matter where you are in the world. The workouts are filmed at our studio in Kensington with people in person and there’s a wide variety of classes to fit different needs and tastes. Also if you have a busy day ahead, my tip is to get your workout done and out the way first thing.”
roar-fitness.com
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Simple serenity
A spa break might be the ticket to temporary wellness but the natural world might offer a more lasting solution to letting go. Discover the dark night reserve and wild woodlands of Cowdray Park
Words: Michelle Johnson
“Give yourself permission to be playful,” says Helena Skoog, as we pause in an archway of undergrowth that separates Cowdray Estate’s gardens from one of many patches of fairy-tale woodland dotting the 16,000acre West Sussex estate. We have just poured our worries and stresses into a token and handed it to Helena, a forest bathing guide and yoga instructor, and are about to embark on a mindful adventure that will set the tone of our relaxing weekend exploring the Cowdray Estate.
Forest bathing – the Japanese wellness practice shirin-yoku – is the epitome of low-
maintenance mindfulness, refreshing the mind and reducing stress simply through spending time in nature. The secret ingredient, as Helena explains, lies in the senses: engaging with your sense of sight, smell, touch, hearing and even taste to ensure you remain present in the moment, leaving any worries scattered like debris on the forest floor. We walk (and occasionally scramble) over roots and fallen leaves in a peaceful silence, through the woods towards Cowdray’s grand avenue of sequoia trees, where Helena ups the ante with a guided sensory meditation lying beneath the giant branches.
As introductions to a relaxing getaway
go, this is an impressive one. What could be simpler than a walk in a beautiful forest? Yet, so often, it’s something so easily put off for a later date. Just a short walk fills me with energy; the grown-up version of running in the woods as a child. Soon enough, we’re invited to burn our worry-tokens in a bonfire before enjoying a buffet-style afternoon tea, where I learn that Cowdray offers its guests even more ways to embrace their sense of play – from foraging for wild food with the estate’s expert, George Linklater, to fly fishing, an 18-hole golf course, clay pigeon shooting, and the famed polo academy for the more seriously sporty. »
TRAVEL
The estate’s lodgings, too, accommodate the different interests of its guests. The historic Cowdray House has 22 classically furnished rooms with views over the South Downs, while private cottages and lodges include the Grade II-listed Challens Yarde, Costers Lodge, Apsley Cottage and more. While most of the estate’s accommodations are steeped in history (more than 30% of Cowdray-owned properties are Grade II-Listed), the newest additions to the estate are a set of four idyllic treehouses, hidden away in tranquil woodland. Launched in February in partnership with Tree House Retreats, each private house features a king-size bed, open-plan living area and kitchen (stocked with a hamper filled with local goodies from the estate’s Cowdray Farm Shop), and wrap-around balcony – complete with an outdoor bath and seating area – that overlooks the polo fields and romantic 16th-century ruins of the original Cowdray House.
The ruins themselves are a true local landmark and a centrepiece of the estate. One of England’s most important early Tudor houses, Cowdray was visited by both King Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I during their reigns. The majority of the house was destroyed in 1793, when workmen carrying out repairs may have knocked over a lamp and set the house ablaze. Perhaps ironically, the kitchen tower – which was isolated from the rest of the house due to the risk of fire – is the only part of the mansion to remain intact today, and has been known to play host to events such as tours and art courses, as well as weddings and more at the adjacent Walled Gardens.
The park still boasts royal connections today thanks to its outstanding polo fields. Home of the Coronation Cup, hosted since 1953, Queen Elizabeth II was an occasional visitor, while her husband the Duke of Edinburgh, and son King Charles III both played competitive polo at the venue.
Moving away from high-octane activities, our relaxing weekend continues back at the modern day Cowdray House, as the sun sets and we prepare to take advantage of another jewel in the South Downs’ seemingly endless collection of selling points – its status as a Dark Night Reserve.
Beneath a flawlessly bright full moon, we first prepare for our astronomy lesson with an astrology session – by way of an affirming Tarot session with Nadia of London’s Psychic Sisters – further emphasising the many different and personalised routes to wellness offered by the estate.
Then, armed with warming cocktails created by The Drunken Jockeys, we head outside into the cold to take advantage of the crisp, clear skies. While the brightness of the full moon makes spotting some constellations difficult, we are treated to sights of Jupiter and four of its moons, the red glow of Mars, and the bright twinkle of more constellations than I have ever seen in the UK sky – all under the fun and fascinating guidance of Dr John Mason MBE.
With minds and spirits full, it’s time to focus on the body – with an extravagant three-course meal in the estate’s historic Buck Hall, overlooked by grand portraits of the current owners, the Viscount and Viscountess Cowdray, Michael
and Marina Pearson. Head chef Ben Jupp uses hyper-local ingredients to deliver a mouthwatering starter of butter-poached lobster tail on pan-fried brioche, followed by Cowdray venison loin (from the estate’s own Home Farm) with seasonal vegetables and dauphinoise potatoes, and finished with a revelatory saffronpoached pear with homemade vanilla ice cream. All this, paired with local English wines including Stopham Estate Pinot Gris, Nutbourne Vineyards Pinot Noir, and the Nyetimber Cuvée Cherie MV – a sparkling wine from the South Downs producer that is known to be on par with some of the best champagne houses on the market, and a multi-vintage I can’t resist picking up during my visit to the Cowdray Farm Shop the next morning – before taking a nightcap in the House’s morning room.
With such a full itinerary, the next morning receives an admittedly slow greeting – only the lure of fresh breakfast and a trip to the estate's farm shop (stocked with more local produce including vegetables, meat and fish to candles and homeware) convinces me to leave the comforts of my room. As I leave the fresh air and wild woodland of Cowdray, I’m surprised at how refreshed I feel considering the short stay and relative simplicity of my experience: taking time out in nature, learning something new beneath the stars, and enjoying fine food in great company. In such a picturesque location, and with such interesting experts guiding guests through every experience, this is truly self-care well worth sustaining.
cowdray.co.uk
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FOREST BATHING IS THE EPITOME OF LOW-MAINTENANCE MINDFULNESS, REFRESHING THE MIND AND REDUCING STRESS THROUGH SPENDING TIME IN NATURE
Clockwise from top left: Historic Buck Hall at Cowdray House; wellness expeiences in the estate grounds; forest bathing; four new luxury Treehouses were launched in February 2023
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LAND OF FIRE, ICE... AND ELECTRICITY
Mercedes-Benz launches its all-electric saloon in the world’s foremost sustainability destination, Iceland. We take a roadtrip to see whether the marque’s new EV gets the green light
Words: Rory FH Smith
“Welcome to Iceland; the land of fire, ice and electricity,” my driver tells me as we pull away from Reykjavik airport. With a rich mixture of geology and its northerly location, the nation has extensive access to renewables, meaning almost 100% of the electricity consumed in this small country of 330,000 people comes from renewable sources. Put simply, Iceland is as green as it gets when it comes to energy generation and consumption – so much so that the United Nations holds it up as a global leader in sustainability.
Good news in an age when energy prices are spiralling and the world’s appetite for electrons is increasing exponentially. Against this backdrop, Iceland makes a lot of sense, which is no doubt why Mercedes-Benz has sought it out as the place to launch its latest all-electric saloon, the EQE. Following in the footsteps of its sibling the EQS, Mercedes’ latest take on its best-seller family saloon sports the same rounded aerodynamic design –something Bastian Baudy, the Mercedes’ team lead for exterior design, labels as ‘one-bow’ design.
This slick new design language sets Mercedes’ EQ electrified models apart from its range of combustion-engine cars, with the slippery new profile aiding aerodynamics – a key ingredient in the battle for more efficient and longer-range electric vehicles. While the existing family favourite E-Class saloon is still on sale alongside its electric cousin, the EQE commands a significant premium, with prices starting from £73,450 compared to £45,575 for the conventionally powered model.
On first approach outside the Reykjavik Edition hotel in the Icelandic capital’s harbour, it’s difficult to tell the EQE apart from its more luxurious sibling – only the slightly shorter length gives away that this model sits just below the EQS in the luxury saloon game. Against the dramatic backdrop of a moody sea, giant fishing trawlers and rolling hills behind, its flowing lines, squat stance and smooth front end make quite the impression.
Packing a 90kWh battery, the 500 spec EQE has
a range of just under 400 miles and a power output of 408bhp – enough to power the entirety of my allelectric, renewable energy-powered road trip to Vik at the tip of Iceland’s southern coastline. Heading off on the scenic route, which measures in at over 300miles, the drive should be well within the range of the EQE’s real-life range.
Once out on Iceland’s deserted country roads, it’s easy to see why the EQE commands such a premium on its combustion-engine cousin, the E-Class. The EQE’s tech-heavy, spaceship-like cockpit goes well with Iceland’s lunar landscape on the country roads to the east of the capital. Dominating the dashboard is a central touchscreen, twinned with another 13in driver info screen that replaces the normal dash dials and display. Controlling everything from the seat massagers and internal ambience to the media, navigation and car set-up, the EQE’s digital-first dash is a significant step up from the norm. For those seeking a screen detox when they step into their car, the EQE’s arrangement will be alarming; especially in the AMG EQE 53 version, which has the option to select Mercedes’ enormous 56in Hyperscreen, which turns the entire dashboard into an all-dominating digital display.
THE SOUND OF SILENCE
Gliding through Iceland’s desolate lava fields, the car pulls well, with power and performance that almost outmatches the car’s stately saloon car setup. Acceleration is the party piece of most electric cars and the EQE is no exception – the 500 model pulls off the 0-60mph dash in just five seconds, while the lower-powered 350 does it in 7.3 seconds and the range-topping AMG 53 in a rapid 3.5 seconds. Making my way around the vast rift valley lake of Thingvallavatn, to the east of the capital, the EQE comes alive on the narrow, twisting roads. With views down to the crystal clear, ice-cold water below, I weave my way around the jagged rocky outcrops and deserted roads as the sun beats down through the EQE’s panoramic glass roof. The silent driving that comes with electric cars is refreshing in any
setting but even more so when driving through Iceland’s spectacularly scenic countryside.
Once I’ve navigated the long way around Thingvallavatn lake, I continue southeast to sample some of Iceland’s most sought-after landmarks – its wild and wonderful waterfalls. Like something from the pages of a fantasy film, falls like Skógafoss and nearby Seljalandsfoss conjure up images of post-Ice Age landscapes, which were defined by ferocious torrents of glacial meltwater. Plummeting off sheer cliff edges, Iceland’s Skógá and Seljalandsa river flow down into deep crevasses that cut through the green and grey-mottled, treeless landscape. Despite its healthy supply of renewables, trees are not readily found in Iceland ever since Viking settlers took their axes to the forests that covered one-quarter of the countryside.
Approaching Vik, my final destination on the south coast before heading back to the capital, I’d usually be looking forward to taking a break after a full day of driving. But the rich mixture of the EQE’s silent and comfortable drive, combined with the jaw-dropping scenery spurs me on. Arriving at Vik, its jet-black beaches, towering offshore stacks, sheer cliffs and swirling plumes of puffins are more akin to Middle Earth than anywhere on our planet. It’s a fitting and awe-inspiring end to my Icelandic adventure.
In the same distance between London to Exeter, I’ve seen lava deserts, crystal-clear glacial lakes, waterfalls that plummet from great heights and black beaches that stretch for miles. Iceland is an enchanting place and its wonders serve as a poignant reminder of the world we must maintain. We can hope that the remarkable way in which the country makes use of renewables will travel further overseas in time, if only to power the burgeoning number of electric cars around the world.
In the meantime, Mercedes’ choice of location to launch its latest car doesn’t just to serve as a beautiful backdrop, but also as a powerful reason to go green.
mercedes-benz.com
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MOTORING
Electric feel: Testing the Mercedes-Benz EQE's green credentials through Iceland's dramatic terrain
SMALL WONDERS
In search of a private luxury break away from big-name brands?
Tempus takes a look at the best boutique hotels on the planet
Words: Gabriel Power
Acosy atmosphere replete with artistic creativity. A small number of rooms offering an air of exclusivity. A distinct design and inventory-led interior theme…
These are the hallmarks of a fine boutique hotel, and with spring close and thoughts of luxurious summer holidays now firmly at the fore, Tempus has scoured the globe in search of the finest hotels to luxuriate in while exploring blissfully sunny climes. »
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SB WINEMAKER’S HOUSE & SPA SUITES | MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
To the Southern Hemisphere and another fine wine region, Argentina’s lauded Mendoza Province, responsible for two-thirds of the country’s significant wine production. SB Winemaker's House & Spa Suites (right and previous), on the outskirts of the city of Mendoza, is a secluded complex featuring a prestigious winery and a unique luxury hotel.
The latter was opened in 2022 by owner Susana Balbo – Argentina’s first female winemaker – and her daughter Ana, and contains seven individually designed spa suites, all featuring their own living room, terrace, and curated wine fridge. The hotel’s turn-down service, meanwhile, includes a course of aromatherapy prepared in the in-suite tub. With the hotel perched at the edge of the mighty Andes, the resort’s more intrepid guests can venture into the mountains for some of the finest hiking and stargazing to be found anywhere on the planet.
susanabalbohotels.com
L’ALBERETA RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX | LOMBARDY, ITALY
A spiritual oenological sibling to France’s Champagne, Franciacorta is one of Italy’s most celebrated sparkling wine grapes and, nestled within the vineyards where it grows, stands L’Albereta: a splendid, ivy-covered villa housing a world-class boutique hotel (right).
Phenomenal wine offerings aside, this is a must-visit for anyone heading to Italy’s far north, featuring a cutting-edge spa and stylishyet-rustic farmhouse-style rooms. Furthermore, with rolling hills, mountain ridges and spectacular Lake Iseo all within cycling distance, L’Albereta serves as the ultimate luxury gateway to the great outdoors.
relaischateaux.com
HOSHINOYA TOKYO | TOKYO, JAPAN
From street level, there’s something intimidating yet fascinating about the Hoshinoya Tokyo, one of hotel group Hoshino Resorts’ many luxe offerings dotted across Japan. Where most branches of this super-indulgent range of hotels usually resemble a traditional Japanese ryokan, complete with sliding shoji doors and pagodastyle roofs, the brand’s Tokyo offering towers above the Ōtemachi district, its windows hidden by an ornate black metallic lattice, giving the building a beguiling monolithic look. But where the outside may appear almost alien in its ultramodern elegance, the inside is anything but.
Warm, welcoming and exceptionally opulent, the Hoshinoya Tokyo is the gold standard for aesthetics-driven luxury hotels, while also being a beautiful example of how five-star norms can be subverted for a unique customer experience. For example, guests enter the hotel not by a standard lobby, but rather by a cypress-woodbedecked antechamber featuring a shoe locker (no footwear is allowed in the hotel), tatami mats and elevators to take guests up to their floor, each of which serves as its own ryokan, complete with an ochanoma, a private living room area –the ultimate in understated opulence. »
hoshinoya.com
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TRAVEL
THE EMPORIUM PLOVDIV | PLOVDIV, BULGARIA
A little further off the beaten track for most summer holidaymakers is The Emporium Plovdiv, a stunning new boutique hotel in Bulgaria’s second city. Though perhaps little known to all but the most well-travelled, Plovdiv packs a hefty historical punch – thought to be the oldest continually inhabited town in Europe. The hotel, designed by the world-renowned Sundukovy Sisters studio in Moscow, is part of Accor Hotels’ new MGallery boutique range dedicated to artistic expression, each room featuring a range of chic design pieces and a wealth of smart technology to help guests feel at home.
The Emporium is both electric and serene, playing host to nightlife staples including a highend restaurant and champagne bar, as well as relaxation spaces such as the wellness centre in which guests can pamper themselves with indulgent spa treatments – just the thing after a day of exploring this beguiling Byzantine city.
emporiumplovdiv.com
THE XARA PALACE | MDINA, MALTA
Even the most well-travelled among us may be unaware that one of the most beautiful settlements in Europe lies on the tiny, often overlooked island nation of Malta. But the small town of Mdina, a hilltop citadel whose fortifications date back more than 1,000 years, has slowly built a reputation among luxury travellers for its exclusive accommodation – set in gorgeous pink sandstone buildings and atmospheric, winding cobbled streets, all best exemplified by The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux (right).
Hidden down a secluded cul-de-sac within the Old Town walls, the hotel is housed in a remarkable restored baroque palace, offering guests a historic, elegant hideaway in this unique and under-visited city. And if the ornate rooms aren’t enough, haute cuisine awaits in the superb restaurant, perched on the rooftop and offering eye-popping views all the way to the ocean.
relaischateaux.com
STRANDLOPER OCEAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL | WESTERN CAPE, SOUTH AFRICA
To the north-west of the intense bustle of Cape Town lies West Coast Peninsula, a stretch of sandy, mostly uninhabited wilderness characterised by blue skies, wide open fields and gentle sea breezes. Here, travellers will find the coastal village of Paternoster, home to the five-star Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel (right), named for the nomadic indigenous people who once roamed the area.
According to the hotel website, the establishment is “designed to blur the lines between outdoors and indoors” by harnessing in its airy, spacious suites the stunning natural light. Some of these feature an adjacent private terrace with views of the endless Atlantic, and guests with a more adventurous streak can take advantage of the outdoor showers fitted in a handful of the rooms. Secluded and stylish, this is beachfront accommodation at its peaceful, luxurious best.
strandloperocean.com
TRAVEL
Bricks and mortar have traditionally been considered the safest place to put one’s money, but recent economic and political upheavals – both at home and globally – have rocked the once unshakeable UK market to an unparalleled degree. Between the Covid-19 lockdowns driving a housing slump and city exodus, then stamp-duty holidays causing a rush to complete on sales, energy price-hikes caused in part by global conflict, last year’s sudden crash of the pound sterling, to former Chancellor Kwasi Kwarteng’s mini budget that sent shockwaves through the mortgage market in September 2022 – the word “tumultuous” doesn’t quite suffice for the past two years of property sales.
If it sounds like a wild ride for the property experts who are tracking the rollercoaster rise and fall of the market, it is even more difficult to parse for those of us asking how to be sure of the right time – and place – to move?
“The property market in major cities across the UK, especially Edinburgh and London, has been overheated,” explains Yasmin
HOT PROPERTY
Michelle Johnson
Ulhaq, director and founder of distinguished London management firm Glenfield Property Management. “Overall growth was around 10% and above during the pandemic. Now, with rising interest rates and the overwhelming cost of living, there is inevitably going to be a slowdown. The UK has experienced nearly 13 years of uninterrupted house price growth. The market is levelling up in line with inflation.”
Knight Frank stats seem to agree with this summary, suggesting that while the market will not return quickly to previous heights, the new normal may not be as concerning as headlines suggest.
“We think UK prices will decline by 10% over the next two years as buyers recalculate their budgets,” writes Tom Bill, head of UK residential research for Knight Frank, in February. “However, you shouldn’t underestimate the motivation levels of a needs-based buyer who has come to terms with the fact that a five-year fixed-rate mortgage is now at its 25-year average (4.3%).”
Tom adds that there is optimism and caution
in equal measure “despite what the data from the aftermath of the mini-Budget is showing”. “The resilience of prices and sales volumes will be put to the test this spring when larger numbers of transactions take place and by which time virtually no five-year fixed-rate mortgages below 3.5% will remain in the system,” he predicts.
When it comes to where you’re buying, it is equally important to consider UK property not as one homogenous market, but as complex individual silos – while we all know that property prices vary greatly in London compared to North Yorkshire, there are also multiple factors within specific areas.
Caspar Harvard-Walls, partner at Black Brick, explains: “Headline figures are helpful to some degree, but they do not capture the nuances of the market of any given area in the UK. London, for example, is not one market but rather a series of micro-markets with their own specific push and pull factors. What is happening in Mayfair today is very different from what is happening in Hounslow.” »
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Tumultuous change on the economic, social and and political front has had an unprecedented impact on the housing market. So does that mean investing and moving are still savvy options?
Words:
Unique properties: Experts point to rare country homes as coveted investment; Dalkeith Country Park (right)
CASH IS KING
One interesting result of the weakened sterling and high interest rates is that high-net-worth property buyers, who Caspar described as “discretionary users of mortgage finance” are opting to avoid mortgages altogether in favour of cash purchases. This is reflected in sellers’ responses, as well.
“Vendors will place significant value on securing a cash buyer for their property, particularly in a market currently riven with down-valuations and fall throughs – and may even accept a lower offer for their property if the buyer is able to pay in cash,” advises Black Brick managing partner Camilla Dell. “Around half of Black Brick’s clients are now paying in cash, up from an average of 20% in previous years. Cash buyers have always had an advantage because they can move quicker and are a sure thing, so vendors are always more amenable to some negotiating. It’s a buyers’ market at the moment and being a cash buyer
means that you have a better chance of getting a better price agreed.”
Savills data seems to agree, with the firm’s latest reports suggesting that around 65% buyers in prime central London pay cash. While homes in prime central London –such as Mayfair and St James’s – are as soughtafter as ever, other key areas of London seeing rising popularity include Notting Hill, Holland Park, Hampstead and Bayswater –the latter currently undergoing an extensive £3bn regeneration.
Samuel Richardson, head of Carter Jonas Mayfair, says: “Branded residences remain top of the list from high-net-worth individuals (HNWIs) seeking a property in prime central London. Developments such as The Whiteley and the OWO are in high demand, as is 20 Grosvenor Square.”
Some of the most exceptional addresses in prime central and north-west London are also seeing an international draw, by way
of billionaire buyers from the US and China seeking serviced apartments and smart homes.
“We have seen a rising trend from US-based Chinese billionaires who are taking their money out of the US and into prime central London,” Samuel says. “We are currently viewing off-market trophy houses in St James’s and Mayfair for upwards of £120m. They are also buying luxury apartments for their children, or as an investment, for £8-10m.”
Yasmin echoes his findings: “The main trend we are finding at Glenfield is an influx of international buyers. American interest in the London property market is strong. People want more for their money. We are seeing an increase in blocks offering wellness facilities – for example, Finchatton in Bayswater and Holland Park Residences both offer spa and wellness services catering to HNWI residents. Since Covid the number of people working from home has tripled. Buyers will pay extra for flexible space.”
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ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY
But what about those still hearing the siren call of rural living? Just as many city-dwellers fled London for greener pastures during lockdown, Knight Frank research suggests balance is being restruck between the draw of the city and country – although for Yasmin there is still no comparison.
“In 2020 we saw large proportions of people moving out of London in search of larger, rural homes offering more space. However, many applicants that we have spoken to recently miss the buzz of the city,” she says. “Personally, I feel you can’t compare country pads to a prime central London property.”
Other experts say there is still plenty of appeal to the great outdoors. Smart country pads within commuter distance of major cities are of particular interest to both domestic and international buyers – and although the lockdown London exodus is no more, there is still an aspirational quality to buying outside of the city thanks to the lifestyle benefits offered from rural locations and the rarity of exceptional country properties.
“While the ‘escape to the country’ trend that dominated the property market has moderated, as town and city markets have
become ever more attractive in line with the reopening of the economy, it remains an aspiration for many buyers such as lifestyle changers,” says Chris Druce, senior research analyst at Knight Frank. “Our latest residential property sentiment survey found that a village or rural location was the single most popular category for prospective buyers. However, city, town or suburb was collectively the preference for 55%, showing that demand is now balanced (compared with the early days of the pandemic) between rural and urban.”
One of the reasons for this, says Chris, is the opportunity to find truly unique and rare homes. “The upper prime and super-prime country market remains strong. Properties in this part of the market are often unique and do not come up for sale regularly,” he says. “At the same time prospective buyers are often equity- or cash-rich and, to a degree, have greater insulation against increased borrowing costs.”
But the country is not immune to the financial ups and downs of the rest of the market, and cash buying is even more pronounced in prime regional markets outside of London – 40% in 2022 compared with 28% in the mainstream market. In fact, Knight Frank reveals that, for country properties
above £2m, the percentage of cash buyers was more than half (54%) and at £5m+ more than three-quarters (77%); new prospective buyers were up 11% in January compared to the five-year average, outperforming the wider country market.
Black Brick has also seen similar international interest. Camilla says: “We are seeing enquiries from buyers in the US and the UAE looking for country estates that are within an hour’s drive of central London. They want houses or estates that are in excellent condition and have amenities such as swimming pools, tennis courts and some land. Such estates are incredibly rare and difficult to find, as most country estates are listed buildings requiring work.”
What seems clear is that, although the market is more complex than ever, buyers can – and should – demand much more bang for their buck when it comes to making a property investment, whether that’s in a serviced residence in prime central London or an exceptionally rare grade listed country pile. In an ever changing and multi-faceted housing market, it seems that some things are still universal.
black-brick.com; carterjonas.co.uk; glenfieldpm.co.uk; knightfrank.com
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PROPERTY
Perfect postcodes: Notting Hill, London (opposite); a Tudor manor house in Eton Dorney, Berkshire (above)
A BLANK CANVAS
When it comes to the art world, it can too often seem like a field dominated by men – until now. The women of Pictorum Art Group share their future focus as the brand launches its London flagship gallery and prepares for international expansion
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JENNA MCDONALD | CREATIVE DIRECTOR
What are your aims for Pictorum Art Group?
As creative director at Pictorum Art Group, I am continuously looking towards the bigger-picture for the Group and our brands. Creativity and strategy go hand in hand in my role. I focus on developing a vision that ensures we have a cohesive image that embodies our brands’ various identities – such as overseeing the design and construction of Pictorum Gallery London. I also conceive and deliver projects that put us in alignment with individuals, brands and organisations we resonate with. I aim to form meaningful relationships that last with all – no matter how big or small the project or collaboration is – and to form a culture that encourages creativity and flexibility that I hope results in a fulfilling atmosphere for everyone in the team.
Why is it so important to have women involved the art market ecosystem?
I think it’s essential that all industries include the perspectives and opinions of all people, for only then can you start to bring true transformative change. It’s so important to have a working environment where women can feel free to be bold, take risks and think outside the norm. Women’s perception to life and work will always be unique and in order to bring an ecosystem to equilibrium, their involvement welcomed and encouraged.
How does this relate to the role of women in different artistic movements?
It’s no secret that the art world (like many other industries) has been dominated by men throughout history. Take for example, the abstract movement; we hear names like Kandinsky, Willem de Kooning and Pollock but what about Hilma af Klint, Agnes Martin and de Kooning’s wife, Elaine? Art will forever be encircled by questions and considerations – what kind of space should art be viewed? Should we view the work solely for its aesthetics or is it important to know the story behind? I feel that there will never be a definitive answer for any of these – but, also, that there should not be. Art is so subjective, and I believe its beauty lies in that.
What are you most excited for in 2023?
We have a lot of exciting things in the pipeline for 2023. Already, we have participated in UVNT Madrid showcasing three artists – Yaya Yajie Liang, Ornella Poccetti and Johanna Seidel – who are also showing with us in London. In March, we launched our first International Women’s Day event at AllBright, and we are looking to launch our vision internationally later in the year, with operations in India and potentially Dubai.
SANAA SACHDEV | OPERATIONS DIRECTOR
Tell us about your role within the Group?
My role at Pictorum has evolved over the last 18 months. I started in business development and marketing and now manage operations and logistics. One of the perks of working in a small team is that you can try different areas within the business and see where you can give the best outcome. Managing the internal function of each of our brands helps me understand them better, and gives me a sense of achievement to know that smoothly running operations strengthens the backbone of the company. I also work on investment modelling for our advisory, and it’s exciting to learn more as this role grows.
What do you feel is the biggest misconception about the art world?
Art is often seen as progressive and liberal, yet industry tastemakers are considered rigid and elitist. This perception is also reflected in how people invest and collect art. One of the reasons art collecting is still considered a hobby for the rich and renowned is because of the lack of knowledge and buying power among wider art admirers. However, if you start small, you can support phenomenally talented emerging artists who are often overlooked because amateur collectors are distracted by blue chip art.
How can organisations help bridge this gap?
In my opinion, the disconnect between how the art world is perceived and how it traditionally operates is that the rule-makers are no longer the tastemakers. Age-old institutions are run by older generations who are understandably resistant to change but, as tastes and ideas evolve, perceptions of those producing and buying art are becoming incongruent with the older generations running these institutions. To initiate disruptive changes relevant to the new generation of art lovers, new organisations need to follow a more collaborative approach than a competitive one.
What are the biggest challenges for underrepresented people in the art market?
Passion may be the prominent motivator for creators and collectors, but it isn’t the factor that bridges the supply and demand gap between them. For an artist to make a living out of their passion, they also need to learn how to commercialise their work and make their talent known. Equally, until recently, women artists were not taken as seriously as their male counterparts, but that seems to be changing as organisations make more conscious effort to eliminate the gender gap. Tate Britain recently announced that it will showcase works by more women artists than ever before – an effort evident of a slow change that acknowledges women to be equally qualified in their practice.
JOSÉPHINE-MAY BAILEY | GALLERY DIRECTOR & CURATOR
Tell us about the ethos of Pictorum Gallery?
Mutual support is at the core of Pictorum. We work alongside our artists to ensure their longevity and, as a gallery that works with emerging artists, this is especially important. There is a lot of talk around ‘finding’ new artists, but sometimes this creates a culture that’s so fast moving artists can quickly be forgotten. We bring our artists with us every step of the way. We are also dedicated to supporting women and artists of colour and ensure that our programme reflects this.
What do you love about working with emerging artists?
It’s important for me to represent emerging artists, as often they need the most guidance and support. I take great pride in building secure, trusting relationships with my artists. Working with emerging artists is immensely rewarding. It feels incredible to make a difference in each artist’s practice by ensuring their works go to collectors who want to support them and help them develop. I have had the privilege of working with some of the most successful emerging artists today, and I still get goosebumps when I see them showing at major galleries.
Are women artists underrepresented?
The art world is years behind many other industries in terms of gender equality. While there’s been a recent shift towards women artists, they are often still vastly under-appreciated in terms of value in the primary and secondary markets, as well as exhibitions and institutional shows. According to Tate, 78% of London galleries represent more men than women, while only 5% represent an equal number of male and female artists. Similarly, according to Artnet.com, men outnumbered women 85 to 15 on the top-selling artists at auction in 2020 and, despite making up 54% of all artists, women artists represent just 2% of the market. These stats are just the tip of the iceberg and showcase something that we have all noticed over the years.
How do you plan to shift the
balance?
A focus on women artists will be a cornerstone of our programming. Of the nine shows we have planned for 2023, seven are women-only exhibitions. These exhibitions aren’t simply groups of women lumped together as ‘great women artists’, but highly researched exhibitions focusing on topics and themes that are deeply rooted in the chosen artists’ practices. In March, our exhibition The Songs of Hecate features seven women artists focusing on how understandings of mysticism and spiritualism build a sense of community and knowledge sharing; consequently rejecting patriarchal oppression. It is an exhibition that really deserves attention and focus, and I am so proud to be working with the artists.
Find out more about Pictorum Art Group by contacting: jenna@pictorum.art. Pictorum Gallery London is located at 2 Portman Square, London pictorumartgroup.com
93 PARTNER FEATURE
IT’S NO SECRET THAT THE ART WORLD (LIKE MANY OTHER INDUSTRIES) HAS BEEN DOMINATED BY MEN
THE REAT RESET
The tech world is facing a major shakeup as the global economy takes a downturn. With tech giants slashing jobs, is it time to sound the death knell for Silicon Valley or is the tech crisis a blessing in disguise?
Words: Lysanne Currie
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Newspapers are calling it everything from the “tech-apocalypse” to the “dotcom crash 2.0”. As the global economy hits a rough patch, the tech sector is feeling the heat, with behemoths such as Google, Facebook, and TikTok cutting jobs by the thousands. By the start of 2023, Google had cut 12,000 jobs, Microsoft 10,000, and Amazon 18,000. Overall, more than 100,000 jobs have already been axed this year.
The tech sector is no longer the safe haven it once was, and anyone seeking a job for life
should think twice – especially non-native freelancers. As Wired reported in February, “workers on employment visas have suddenly found themselves having to leave their adoptive countries…”
London, the tech capital of Europe, is expected to be hit particularly hard: the city has been an acknowledged tech powerhouse ever since the 2010 Conservative-Liberal Democrat coalition government put innovation at the forefront of its growth policies. However, with the cost of starting a digital business
skyrocketing, particularly for companies that require top-notch software engineers, it’s widely predicted that some companies will go under in 2023, making it a “clear-out year”.
Not everyone is pessimistic about the future of the tech industry, however. As USA Today points out, “the lay-offs represent a relatively small share of tech companies’ workforces in 2022, and even with the lay-offs, all five Big Tech companies [Alphabet (Google), Amazon, Apple, Meta and Microsoft] have bigger workforces now than before the pandemic”. »
95 TECHNOLOGY
Matt Collingwood, managing director of UK recruitment company VIQU, also believes it’s too early to start eulogising. “There was a fear that if Big Tech sneezes, smaller tech companies and other end-user businesses would catch a cold,” he says. “But with so many tech jobs at mid-level and with smaller businesses’ posts remaining unfilled, I do not see IT redundancies en masse.”
In fact, the current turbulence could even end up being a shot in the arm for the tech sector.
Danny Rimer at top European investment firm Index Ventures calls it a “great reset”, and tech investors and entrepreneurs who have weathered previous recessions do see this as a unique opportunity. As one tech investor told the Evening Standard, “It’s like coming in after New Year’s Eve feeling bloated and hungover. Now we’re all hitting the gym and trying to get into shape – and we’ll be better for it.”
Niklas Zennstrom, CEO of leading VC fund Atomico, is another who believes the economic downturn will offer some unexpected silver linings. “The downturn brings resilience… the businesses that make it will survive by consolidating into a smaller group of firms, who will grow faster with greater market share. With less noise comes more opportunity.”
The economic downturn also makes it easier to attract talent to the tech industry, as companies can recruit more sustainably, also forcing investors to be more careful with their investments and carry out more due diligence before funding entrepreneurs. As Craig Freedberg, a regional director of technology at Londonbased recruitment firm Robert Half, told Wired,
“With Big Tech no longer aggressively recruiting, we’re seeing a rebalancing toward small-and medium-sized businesses who struggled to find talent in 2022.”
USA Today confirms this is already happening: laid-off tech workers are being “quickly reabsorbed back into the tech workforce” by tech SMEs, it reports – and smaller tech companies are reaping the rewards. With the influx of talent from the big tech giants, SMEs are able to expand their reach and improve their products faster.
David Richards, founder and president of data distribution company Wandisco, also sees positives for the sector and for society alike.
“The world has all sorts of interesting problems in computer science, but we’ve been putting these great brains to getting more advertising clicks,” he says.
“It’s actually really good news,” he says. “It’s refreshing. I’m pleased that those social media and business models are melting down. People are now beginning to question why they’re working at those companies. And it means the smaller start-ups can actually hire people who were not available before. The world’s changing. It’s good.”
Industry bible Tech Republic concurs: “Layoffs by the big tech companies create enormous opportunities for smaller firms to add tech talent that normally is hard to find.”
What’s more, these tech wizards, who were once lured to the big tech companies, may find that their skills are better suited to the more nimble, entrepreneurial atmosphere of a small firm.
Far from the end of days, the current crisis might just be the great reset that the tech sector needs to reach new heights...
THE DOWNTURN BRINGS RESLIENCE... WITH LESS NOISE COMES MORE OPPORTUNITY
- Niklas Zennstrom, CEO, Atomico
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Big Tech: Apple Park in Cupertino, California (above), and Google’s London HQ in King’s Cross (right)
In a deeply globalised world beset by war, the climate crisis and the lasting economic impact of the Covid-19 pandemic, this year’s World Economic Forum (WEF) in Davos, Switzerland essentially resembled one giant geopolitical crisis talk. Indeed, the WEF’s self-given motto this year was “Cooperation in a fragmented world” – a somewhat understated interpretation of the current state of global affairs – and subsequent analysis of the event will likely keep misery-hungry doom-scrollers satisfied for months to come.
However, from one more secluded corner of the vast forum came a ray of hope, in the form of a panel session dedicated to space exploration, its ongoing resurgence and its prospective benefits for mankind.
It’s no secret that space, once exclusively the domain of government-affiliated agencies and personnel, has, in recent years, become the playground of the ultrarich, with tech titans Elon Musk, Jeff Bezos and Sir Richard Branson even staging their own mini-space-race last year. But, as the panel comprised of European Space Agency (ESA) director general Josef Aschbacher, astronaut Matthias Maurer and MIT Media Lab director Dava Newman discussed, this is not to say that this pseudo-privatised vision of the cosmos has nothing to offer to the advancement of science, nor is it end of the road for NASA and the ESA.
For better or worse, the surge in private space projects – particularly by Musk’s
OUT OF THIS WORLD
As this year’s Davos World Economic Forum dealt with geopolitical and economic crises by the bucketload, one small corner or the forum offered a glimmer of hope as the European Space Agency asked us all to look to the stars – and beyond
Words: Gabriel Power
SpaceX – has driven material and operational costs down dramatically; a market shift that could see government agencies potentially reaping the benefits. According to a recent study from Aerospace Security, part of the Centre for Strategic and International Studies, in 1981 it cost NASA $65,400 (£54,453)/kg (adjusted for 2021 inflation) to send a heavy-class payload into Low Earth Orbit; in 2018, the launch of the private Falcon Heavy craft set SpaceX back just $1,500 (£1,248)/kg, a cost reduction of almost 98%.
But from this purely economic perspective, free-marketeers could instead be forgiven for predicting a sharp decline in the role of NASA and the ESA in the next chapter of humanity’s relationship with space; after all, if competition drives innovation, how could government space agencies which have historically not prioritised the extraction of capital from their projects ever hope to compete?
To assuage these fears, Josef essentially eschewed this hyper-capitalist mindset, reaffirming the role of NASA and ESA as taxpayer-funded organisations that will remain free to pursue scientific endeavour for the sake of human progress. To demonstrate this, he pointed to the ESA’s recent procurement of €60m (£53m) of funding in November for its latest project, Solaris; a feasibility study on the possibility of generating solar energy in space and beaming it back to Earth wirelessly. While
the exploits of Musk and Bezos may have made this project significantly cheaper, it remains entirely detached from the arena of celebrity pet projects that dominate space exploration.
But Josef’s most intriguing assertion was that NASA and the ESA will never truly fade away due to their position as strict regulators of space. Even if the scale and scope of their projects may shrink in years to come, their invaluable role as mitigators of the effects of poorly planned or botched private endeavours will keep space safe for decades.
This is best exemplified by recent discussions Josef has held with the ESA’s member states about a policy that would require satellites to be deorbited immediately after the end of their missions in order to decrease the astronomical quantity of space debris that now effectively forms a cage around Earth, endangering other spacecraft attempting to leave the atmosphere. The agency estimates that there are currently around 130 million pieces of debris within the orbit of Earth, including 36,500 that are larger than four inches.
“We want to establish a zero-debris policy, which means that if you bring a spacecraft into orbit you have to remove it,” Josef told Davos. “We need to protect our orbits for our own safety and the safety of spacecraft and astronauts.”
weforum.org
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IMAGE: ESA/Webb, NASA,CSA, A.
MARTEL
THE SONGS OF HECATE
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Renin Bilginer // Ornella Pocetti // Chantal Powell
PV 6-9pm 24.03.23 till 26.04.23 PICTORUM GALLERY
Johanna Seidel // Zayn Qahtani // Rithika Pundey // Maddie Yuille
2 PORTMAN SQUARE, LONDON, W1H 6LA
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PLUS +
• Tried & tasted at Harrod’s new Studio Frantzen
• Get ready for the Festival de Cannes
• Chelsea Flower Show is back in bloom
• Discover Luxury and Power at the British Museum
• Save the Date: your luxury events calendar
The Power star Heather Agyepong on expressing “radical truth”
Finding her power
Actress and artist Heather Agyepong on her powerful new TV role
Heather Agyepong is an actress and photographer with a seemingly inexhaustible appetite for what she describes as “radical truth-telling”. Widely celebrated for her work exploring subjects including mental health, invisibility, and the diaspora, Heather will soon be hitting our screens in the highly anticipated Amazon adaptation of Naomi Alderman’s ground-breaking
novel, The Power Heather plays Ndudi, a young Nigerian journalist who is friends with Tunde – the novel’s only male protagonist – when a sudden evolution provides women and teenage girls with the power to electrocute people at will. Like the book, the series is set to be a gripping thriller about gender, violence and injustice, starring Toni Collette, Halle Bush and Alice Eve.
Heather, who has won multiple prizes for her photography, is also exhibiting her latest project, Wish You Were Here at London’s Centre for British Photography until April. The works pay tribute to African-American Vaudeville performer Aida Overton Walker. Here, the artist tells Tempus about working on projects she believes in, healing through art, and drawing strength from black women throughout history.
Heather, tell us about your role as Ndudi in The Power?
Ndudi is young Nigerian journalist and master’s student who is super smart and always on a quest to find the next story. She is best friends with Tunde who also shares her passion for uncovering the truth and highlighting issues within Nigeria. She doesn’t always show her feelings and has a tough exterior but, due to the new force of The Power, she is faced with life-altering changes exposing her to real vulnerability as well as incredible opportunities for both her and the people around her. Playing a complex, dark-skinned Nigerian girl, grappling with power both electric and internal, felt like a dream story to tell.
What first attracted you to the adaptation of Naomi Alderman’s novel?
The book includes the conversation about intersectional feminism and how power and oppression affect people around the globe very differently and it is so nuanced in its approach. Also, the power dynamic changing to a matriarchy didn’t equate to any sort of utopia in the book – The Power actually critiques how ultimate power within any singular group doesn’t create equality. The love, joy and stunning depictions of empowerment weaved in the book was also so gorgeous.
What inspires your work as a photographer and artist?
My work always starts with me. I
want to explore and unravel layers of myself that I’ve either silenced or not acknowledged. My work is about radical truth-telling – be it about black women’s vulnerability, healing, body exploration or re-imagining myself as black women from history to draw strength from the forgotten or erased past. My visual artwork acts as a therapeutic tool to understand myself better.
Tell us about your current exhibition, Wish You Were Here?
The work looks at ownership, entitlement and self-compassion as black creatives. I wanted to create these postcard images as a conversation about my experience as an artist, not just to encourage others but to show up and be seen so others can know they are not alone.
Wish You Were Here focuses on the work of Aida Overton Walker, the celebrated African-American Vaudeville performer who challenged the rigid and problematic narratives of black performers. She re-worked a dance (the Cake Walk) that was seen as mocking black performers, and filled it with technique, flair and a deep expertise. Even though Aida was working in an incredibly hostile environment, she found a way to expand the limitations of what it meant to be a female black performer. The work is a conversation between me and her – the past and present impacting one another to elevated new heights – and honouring her work while
also honouring my own journey, hearing Aida as guidance.
You are inspired by a quote by Aida: “Unless we learn the lesson of selfappreciation and practise it, we shall spend our lives imitating other people and deprecating ourselves”. I just can’t believe this quote rings so true from when she first said it in 1902. The quote is on my wall at home and I just try to spend regular time reflecting on it. When (daily) comparison comes up, I think of the quote, close my eyes and touch my heart. I just allow myself to have compassion for myself, take a deep breath and reflect on the blessings I have in my life. Comparison isn’t just a joy-killer, it preys on your insecurities.
What’s next for you?
I am back on stage in June at Lyric Theatre in School Girls; Or, The African Mean Girls Play, written by Jocelyn Bioh and directed by Monique Touko. I also have an exhibition called Ego Death, which is part of the Jerwood/ Photoworks Award in Belfast from 6 April to 20 May, and a performance about rest that I am currently creating for a festival.
The Power premieres on Amazon on 31 March
heatheragyepong.com
Interview: Michelle Johnson
102 ENTERTAINMENT | THE POWER
Nordic fusion
Six Michelin-starred chef Björn Frantzén introduces his newest culinary concept at Harrods
Undoubtedly one of London’s most exciting new restaurant launches, globally renowned multi-Michelinstarred chef, Björn Frantzén, set up shop in the UK for the first time at the end of 2022 with Studio Frantzén, a new restaurant, rooftop terrace and bar at Harrods.
Spanning two floors, in a custom-built space, the restaurant’s culinary concept is described as neo-Nordic infused with Asian influences. The offering comprises a unique combination of Swedish and Asian flavours, alongside British dishes given a Nordic or Asian twist. Keeping to Nordic tradition and techniques of smoking and preserving, grilled dishes cooked using an open fire are on offer throughout his menu.
While we would typically be inclined to advise going easy on the breadbasket for fear of filling up before the main event, we wish we’d ordered two at Studio Frantzén. Warm ‘laminated’ bread comes ‘à la croissant’ – topped with a delightful combination of salty blond miso butter and sweet borage honey. Fans of his native cuisine will enjoy the Swedish
Oyster, accompanied by garum, pine and lingonberries – a staple fruit of the country – and, for the best of both worlds, lovers of steak can opt for Sweden vs Japan ‘from the fireplace’, comprising braised beef brisket, grilled Japanese Wagyu, lemongrass jus & Japanese mustard.
Frantzén currently boasts six Michelin stars across his restaurants; three held by his eponymous Stockholm restaurant – which also sits at number 25 on the World’s 50 Best list – and his second threeMichelin star restaurant Zén in Singapore. Speaking of his new outpost he says: “The UK was my home for a long time, and the experience that I gained here early on in my career played an informative role in my education as a chef. I am overwhelmingly proud to be back in London, one of the most interesting cities in the world.”
Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL frantzengroup.com
Words: Lauren O’Neill
104 FINE DINING | STUDIO FRANTZÉN
Roll out the red carpet
Cannes Film Festival is perhaps the most important 12 days in the international cinematic calendar, and this year’s event – which takes place from 16-27 May – is shaping up to be no exception. The festival will transform the sleepy seaside town in the south of France into a star-studded extravaganza, with 200,000 people descending upon La Croissette.
This impressive crowd is made up of filmmakers, celebrities, studio executives, journalists and fans. They will enjoy film premieres and screenings, exclusive events with filmmakers and acting talent, as well as a multitude of glittering black tie events – such as the annual amfAR Gala.
The line up of this year’s festival will be announced in the third week of April, but rumours are already circulating that the opening night film may be Pedro Almodovar’s Strange Way of
Life. Hopeful watchers also point to Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer and Martin Scorsese’s Killers of the Flower Moon as potential big-name premieres for the prestigious festival.
One thing of which we are certain is that competition entrants will be keen to impress the star-studded jury: two-time Palme D’Or winner, Swedish director Ruben Östlund has been elected president of this year’s panel.
“I am happy, proud, and humbled to be trusted with the honour of Jury president for this year’s competition at the Festival de Cannes,” said the Triangle of Sadness and The Square filmmaker. “Nowhere in the film world is the anticipation as strong as when the curtain rises on the films in competition at the festival. It is a privilege to be part of it.”
Cannes, France. 16 May – 27 May festival-cannes.com
FESTIVALS | FESTIVAL DE CANNES
| RHS CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW
Chelsea back in bloom
The world’s greatest flower show returns to Royal Hospital Chelsea this May, promising to be bigger and bolder than ever. Among the world firsts at this year’s show will be a functioning garden laboratory by The Royal Entomological Society; The Savills Garden, a working kitchen garden cooking for the Chelsea Pensioners; and the first wheelchair-accessible garden on Main Avenue in The Horatio Garden.
In addition to these special gardens, artists and designers will also showcase unique works – such as sculptor David Harber, whose new work Florio will receive its first official UK preview on a stand designed by the artist’s long term friend and colleague, James Doyle (pictured). David says: “Every year the RHS Chelsea Flower Show is daunting and exhilarating all at once. I am incredibly pleased to be working with James Doyle Design Associates, safe in the knowledge our garden is being created by such a renowned and talented team. It feels like a true collaboration of vision, passion and appreciation for the natural world. I can’t picture a more fitting environment to unveil our latest sculpture, Florio.”
Royal Hospital Chelsea, London. 22-27 May rhs.org.uk
EXHIBITION | THE BRITISH MUSEUM
Luxury and power: Persia to Greece
The legends of the tiny Greek army holding off the vast Persian Empire is stuff of legend – and cinema – but when Greek soldiers captured the royal command tent of the Persian king during these conflicts (499–449 BC), they collected a very real cache of priceless artefacts from around the world.
This exhibition takes viewers on a tour of the ancient empire through a dazzling array of objects from Afghanistan to Greece, exploring how the royal Achaemenid court of Persia used precious objects to hold its authority from Egypt to India – and how Alexander the Great ultimately ushered in a new Hellenistic age. Stand out pieces include silver urns, ancient jugs, golden bracelets and wreaths, and many other ancient treasures.
The British Museum, London. 4 May-13 August britishmuseum.org
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EVENTS
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SAVE DATE the
Your luxury events calendar for this season
ART BASEL HONG KONG
The famous art fair final returns to Hong Kong to put the spotlight on premier galleries from Asia and beyond, highlighting the incredible diversity of the Asia-Pacific. artbasel.com
WATCHES & WONDERS
Geneva welcomes the biggest watch brands in the world, from Audemars Piguet to Roger Dubuis, to its hallowed halls. Expect glittering novelties and star guests. watchesandwonders.com
OLIVIER AWARDS
Sir Derek Jacobi and choreographer Arlene Phillips are among the West End stars to be honoured at the biggest night in the theatre calendar, hosted at the Royal Albert Hall. officiallondontheatre.com
28 May
MET GALA
New York’s big night out is this year chaired by Anna Wintour, Penélope Cruz, Michaela Coel, Roger Federer and Dua Lipa. This year’s theme honours designer Karl Lagerfeld. metmuseum.org
THE CORONATION
King Charles III will be crowned at London’s Westminster Abbey at the first coronation in 71 years. Expect pomp and pageantry as the capital prepares for a right royal celebration. royal.uk
F1 MONACO GRAND PRIX
Monaco is transformed once again into the world’s most glamorous racetrack as the F1 comes to Monte-Carlo. Will favourite Max Verstappen take poll position for Red Bull Racing? f1.com
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23-25 Mar
1 May 6 May
While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information. 27 Mar -2 Apr 2 Apr
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THEY WEAR IT WELL
Tempus style columnist Rikesh Chauhan on the ateliers offering a cut above the rest this season
London is well-known as a destination for sartorial savants, street style groundbreakers and everything in between. Among the welltrodden style centres and designer hubs, such as Savile Row, Jermyn Street and Liberty, there are a few rare gems to keep in mind when you next venture into the capital.
These brands not only have an incredible sense of style and aesthetic detail, but the garments on offer –and the quality with which they are made and designed – are all second to none. But among this excellence, there are three that truly take the title.
The first on the hot list, Bryceland’s & Co is also the newest brand of the three to take up permanent residency in London. Ethan Newton and Kenji Cheung set up Bryceland’s in 2015, forging a reputation as a haberdashery that offers unique designs in a workwear sentiment, while also offering unrivalled tailoring. Its locations in Hong Kong and Tokyo are highly frequented, so its first ever European location – on Chiltern Street, no less – had all who follow their guidance elated to the point of giddiness. The shop, though small, is certainly
mighty, and has a range of pieces that suit those with a penchant for signature statement pieces. One example that has caught my eye is the sawtooth Western shirt in buttermilk. It’s vibrant yet soft, striking yet subtle, and can be shown off or made to blend as part of a layered fit. I couldn’t beat the description Bryceland’s itself gives the Western: ‘Scalloped yokes and embroidery, pearl snaps and fancy cuffs, bold primary colours and almost feminine pastels that make it so perfectly suited to pairing with tailored garb’. Perfect.
Everyone should invest in proper jeans and proper quality denim. If you want to invest in a brand where you can genuinely make a difference, and see it, Blackhorse Lane — and its jeans — is the one for you.
“Made. By Us. For Life”: these are the words found inside Blackhorse Lane’s Straight Wide Indigo 14oz. Japanese Raw Denim Selvedge Jeans — otherwise known as the SE1s — alongside a detailed description of not only how the jeans are constructed but who they are made by, how the atelier works together with the wider Walthamstow community of which it is a part, and the importance of lifetime repairs and
the industry’s environmental impact, which BHL is trying to help rectify. Now if that doesn’t sell it, the design certainly will. Workwear jeans inspired by early 20th-century models – this specific pair made using a denim from Japanese mill Kaihara, a great year-round denim option.
There are not enough superlatives in the English dictionary, let alone in my vocabulary, to express just how much I love Anderson & Sheppard; particularly its haberdashery on Clifford Street. While I’ve selected its shawl-collar cardigan for this edition, in fairness, I could’ve literally picked anything from the shop (which I often frequent for hours, tea in hand, with breaks to speak to the wonderful team). This one, it should be known, made the cut because I’m enjoying a green phrase this winter and transitional period – even my newest pair of glasses are bottle green.
Anderson & Sheppard knitwear has always been a standout for those in the know, and with the beautiful variety on offer this season the brand will certainly keep you cosy right up until we’re ready to swap the knits out for its summer assortment.
This pastel take on American Western tailoring is punchier than you might imagine. Refined and relaxed, this is a versatile piece perfectly paired with tailoring or more casual weekend garb.
brycelandsco.com
Investing in a high-quality pair of denim jeans is a must. Made in England, the SE1s are traditional worker's jeans blending heritage design inspired by miners with a breathable cotton-linen blend.
blackhorselane.com
Something to keep you cosy and looking the part, this is the perfect balance of knitwear and jacket, made in Scotland from local lambswool. Layer up with a smart button-down for effortless style.
anderson-sheppard.co.uk
112 PORTRAIT: © HANNAH MILES COLUMN
Buttermilk Sawtooth Western Shirt by Bryceland’s & Co
SE1 Straight Wide Indigo Jeans by Blackhorse Lane
Lambswool Shawl Collar Cardigan in Dark Green by Anderson & Sheppard