style Varsity
SPRING 2014 #4
HOW TO
look fashionable in a INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS
HOODIE
(it is possible)
LAUREN BEUKES WHAT YOU WON’T READ IN HER LATEST BESTSELLER
BOLD
spring fashion
style
FEATURES
Varsity
Brushstroke Biscuits
DIY Soap
Bold Beauty Looks
The New Spory Girl
SPRING2014
CLICK IMAGE TO JUMP TO STORY OR PAGE ON
Into the Blue
How to Hoodie
UCT’s Fortune Girl
Editor’s Letter
Jason in NYC
style
COVER
Varsity
Beukes and her Books
ON THE COVER Lauren Beukes wears earrings, R350, and necklaces (over the shoulder), R175 each, Missibaba; dress and jacket, Lauren’s own. Photographed by Riaan Giani. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie.
Loud Style
FASHION
SPRING2014
CLICK IMAGE TO JUMP TO STORY OR PAGE ON
Accessories Around Campus
Runway Art
Never Too Blue
Shop it Now
All-Out Athleticism
style Varsity
DANIËL GELDENHUYS Editor in Chief, VARSITY STYLE LAURIE SCARBOROUGH Editor in Chief, VARSITY
BARBARA FOURIE Deputy Editor and Beauty Director JENA ASCOUGH Copy Editor
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS MARKETING AND FEATURES DIRECTOR
Vikash Gajjar
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Immaculate Lwanga PHOTOGRAPHERS
Chandre Busschau, Riaan Giani, Michael Love, Lauren Theunissen and Charlie Turnley. WRITERS
Busang Senne and Jessica van Wyk FOOD EDITOR
Janet Swart
ILLUSTRATOR
Simphiwe Ndzube
EDITORIAL MENTORS – BOSS MODELS BOSS MODELS DIRECTOR
Linda Bruchhausen MODEL BOOKERS
Hannelie Bezuidenhout and Jason Smith VARSITY STYLE is the digital style supplement of VARSITY, the official student newspaper of the University of Cape Town since 1942. Contact our editorial team at style@varsitynewspaper.co.za. Office: Level 5, Steve Biko Students’ Union, Upper Campus, UCT, Cape Town, South Africa. +27 21 650 3543. varsitynewspaper.co.za tweet @varsitynews like VARSITY on Facebook
M O FR OR R IT E T ED T LETHE
FIG 1. THE COVER SHOOT TEAM ON LOCATION AT THE ALEXANDER BAR. FROM LEFT: RIAAN GIANI, BARBARA FOURIE, LAUREN BEUKES, DANIËL GELDENHUYS.
BOLD go
t’s the only way to make any sort of lasting impression these days – being bold. Think of pop culture: we’ve just gotten over an anaconda that don’t. (A few years ago it was a lady in a meat dress.) As always, fashion is reflecting its context this season by having a particularly vibrant mood: that means not only print but also texture, colour, and things that shine. Our main fashion story on page 76 should give you a good idea of how to pull it off. Lauren Beukes doesn’t shy away from producing fearless novels that explore the problems and personalities of today. She’s also not afraid to inject her hair with all sorts of colourful streaks (more on that on page 68).
I
Sometimes boldness means being a little more understated – like wearing blue from head to toe, or minimal athletic pieces. And if you’re more of a classic dresser, take some of spring’s most wild beauty looks for a spin – with the party season ahead, there’ll be plenty of opportunities for a feather headband or smudge of eye shadow. While a bold sense of style can be extremely liberating, and will teach you all the basics of feeling comfortable in your skin, it’s a bold personality that will make the greatest impression. Then again, a bold personality is certainly deserving of equally vibrant clothes. Which comes first? It’s up to you.
Daniël Geldenhuys.
S R O
T U IB
R T N
CO
SHOOTING IN
NYC Boss model Jason Anthony was just starting out when he mentored for Varsity STYLE last year. Now he’s working with mega brands like Salvatore Ferragamo and Givenchy, modelling in New York. He mails Daniël Geldenhuys his highlights. WHAT HAS BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER IN THE PAST YEAR?
It would be difficult to choose just one. The past year has been an amazing experience. I get to travel the world, meet awesome people and party with celebrities. One moment in particular that stood out though was shooting the Dior Fall 2015 campaign with Karl Lagerfeld. He is the ultimate professional. It was an honour. EXPLAIN YOUR JOURNEY FROM STARTING AT BOSS TO WORKING IN NEW YORK.
FIG 1. JASON IN VARSITY STYLE SPRING 2013. Photographed by Bert Pauw. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie.
I started at Boss in July 2013. I didn’t work much at all in Cape Town – I did a few editorials and odd jobs here and there which helped me build my book and taught me some skills in the industry. In January 2014 I went over to Europe to walk in the shows. That went quite well and I ended up living in Paris! I travelled a lot through Europe for jobs. Currently I am in New York – it’s the city I’ve dreamed of coming to since I was a kid, and it hasn’t disappointed! WHAT’S THE BIGGEST LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED?
Not to take life so seriously. Just go out into the world and have fun doing what you enjoy. I am blessed to have this opportunity and I am going to take full advantage of it. THE MOST FUN I’VE HAD IN NYC WAS when I did the Porsche
Design Spring 2015 show!
THE WORST THING ABOUT TRAVELLING is packing and goodbyes. THE THING I MISS THE MOST ABOUT SOUTH AFRICA is family,
CLICK TO EXPLORE THE WORLD OF BOSS MODELS
Cape Town, the food, the natural beauty and the weather. MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN NEW YORK is sitting somewhere alone with my thoughts and just watching the incredible city be busy and taking it all in. Midnight walks through Manhattan are incredible too. I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT MY… There’s nothing I can’t live without. I have learned to be flexible and to adapt. Which in this industry is a good trait to have. I’D LIKE TO BE THE FACE OF Armani, Calvin Klein or Gucci. That would be amazing! THE LAST PIECE OF CLOTHING I BOUGHT was socks at H&M lol.
Jason’s Instagrams from Manhattan. IG @jasonmaggott94
S
W E N E L
Y T S
FIG 1. GRORGIA, SECOND FROM LEFT, WITH MODELS AT THE AVANT GARDEN EVENT, SEPTEMBER 2014. Photographed by Chris Schofield.
FORTUNE FOUND UCT student Georgia East arrived on Jammie stairs with the plan of going into journalism. Now she’s at the head of her own global fashion brand, produced proudly in Cape Town. Barbara Fourie chats to her about how it all went down. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO NAME YOUR LABEL FORTUNE?
I was throwing a few ideas around and figured out that since the inception of this label would mean that I was off to “seek my fortune”, why not call it just that? HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE OVERALL ESSENCE OF YOUR DESIGNS?
I am all for clean angles and a sharp overall look and this clearly translated into FORTUNE’s visual aesthetic through minimalist tailoring, the use of
accent colours and an ongoing mantra of “less is more”. HOW WOULD YOU SAY YOUR PERSONAL STYLE REFLECTS IN YOUR DESIGNS?
My personal style is very strong in my designs. I would not be able to put a garment that I wouldn’t wear into a collection. That being said, I believe that style can be reinvented without losing personality, so I try to keep things fresh and current with what I myself wear and thus allow my own personal inspirations to translate into FORTUNE.
WHAT INSPIRES YOUR DESIGNS?
Absolutely anything. The feelings I get from listening to a certain song, watching a film, looking through family photographs or admiring local architecture I channel into something tangible and build collections around that. I enjoy working with themes available to me, as I want FORTUNE to be more than a label. I want it to be a lifestyle. WHAT MADE YOU DECIDED TO MOVE FROM JOURNALISM TO FASHION DESIGN?
After throwing around the ideas of fashion design, journalism or fine art after Matric, I decided to go into the more practical one of the three and have now almost completed my BA in Media Studies at UCT. After being approached by friends about a few garments I had made in my mother’s clothing factory back in 2012, I began to get really interested in the practical side of fashion design and what running a clothing label actually takes. My transition into fashion was very natural, as my mum has been in the industry since the eighties and so she was able to teach me that a career in
there is no need to have to study something like fashion design – you just need passion
friendly street wear, you are more likely to stand out if you find your calling and let your talent shine rather than stretching your creativity thin over too many platforms. HOW DO YOU PLAN ON CONTRIBUTING TO THE LOCAL SA CLOTHING INDUSTRY?
The huge economic decline in the South African textile and manufacturing sector caused by the influx of cheap and shoddily-made Asian imports has made me all the more supportive of the reincarnation of SA’s “rag trade”. I’m fortunate enough to be a part of an all-local clothing factory that manufactures exclusively for FORTUNE. We employ six machinists and two ironers/packers and we are currently training one of our top machinists to become a fabric cutter, thus increasing her skill level and her income and making space for her own professional growth. WHAT ARE YOUR LONG TERM GOALS?
I would love to expand FORTUNE overseas while keeping all my production in Cape Town. My family is British and, after spending time in London last year, I really hope to live there on a permanent basis. I have begun an overseas testing of the waters by linking FORTUNE up with UK online retailer ASOS Marketplace as well as recently being headhunted by another Brit retailer SilkFred.com. On a local level, another big dream is to take part in Cape Town Fashion Week in order to spring my label from a more globally recognised platform.
design is 95% blood, sweat and threads and only 5% glamour. I believe that with drive, hard work and a strong game plan, there is no need to have to study something like fashion design; you just need passion. I still write quite a bit and run my own little blog The One Fortunate One, so I haven’t really left journalism behind. I also believe in having multiple interests and skills. It rounds you out and sets you apart as an individual. You’d be hard-pressed to find anyone that is only good at doing one thing.
WHAT DOES SS15 HOLD FOR YOUR DESIGNS?
WHAT WOULD YOUR ADVICE BE TO OTHER YOUNG DESIGNERS?
DO YOU HAVE ANY FASHION WISDOM FOR THE NEW SEASON?
Don’t ever be afraid of hard work. The milestones that you will pass in your professional life are made all the more sweet if you have earned them yourself. Find what drives you and stick to it. Whether that be hand-embroidered evening gowns or eco-
I am loving a classic summer palette of off-white and ivory with hints of black mesh for reveal/conceal sexiness and of course, flats. I used flats in my recent launch of BOY Femme and so (just for this season) I’m very anti the heel.
My latest SS15 collection entitled BOY Femme is an amalgamation of androgynous and anti-fit. I wanted to take the sports luxe trend that has been so prolific for the past season or so and reshape it into a collection that featured clothing that is relaxed but still looks sharp, that shows off minimal detailing but is still the most talked-about garment in the room. BOY Femme is all about getting back to the basics of design. Sharp, uncluttered and open to interpretation.
how to wear the
HOODIE It’s the perfect transition season piece – ideal for schizophrenic campus weather. But how to wear it without looking like you rolled out of bed or just don’t care? The STYLE editors have a few ideas. Photographed by Michael Love.
Vikash Gajjar
Features and Marketing Director
WITH BOLD PANTS Bold-coloured pants give the hoodie a much-needed wow factor.
FIG 1-8. THE EDITORS WEAR CLOTHING FROM THEIR OWN CLOSETS. Fashion Editor: DaniĂŤl Geldenhuys.
Immaculate Lwanga
Assistant Editor
OVER A MAXI A long dress or skirt gives the sporty hoodie a sense of romance and movement.
Daniël Geldenhuys
Editor in Chief
WITH EXTRA ATHLETICISM Spring’s double-layer pants look reinvents the sporty menswear look. Run with it.
Barbara Fourie
Deputy Editor and Beauty Director
OVER THE SHOULDER The look is reminiscent of the golf players and country club regulars from a past generation. The exposed midriff makes it modern.
IN MONOTONE Match your hoodie colour with pants or a skirt. Add heels to go formal.
AROUND YOUR WAIST (opposite) Add an instant air of laid back elegance to an otherwise formal campus look.
WITH STRIPES AND SNEAKERS (opposite) The hoodie slots perfectly into spring’s athletic trend. Be sure to add a book bag to make it clear you don’t belong on the track. OVER A FORMAL SHIRT And with shorts. Because that’s how to balance a fashion equation.
D N E
R T LE
Y T S
FIG 1. UCT GRADUATE JIMMY NEVIS PHOTOGRAPHED BY PARIS BRUMMER FOR VARSITY STYLE, SPRING 2013.
THINK BLUE This summer, wear blue. Daniël Geldenhuys shows why and how.
W
e never credit clothes by describing their colour!” It was one of the first lessons I learnt interning at a fashion magazine, and one I’ve learnt to follow, even when it means describing the garment till I’m blue in the face. To say that a colour is a trend usually means that you don’t really understand the trend. (Just because there was a lot of green on the runway doesn’t mean it’s okay to wear a green track suit and call it fashion.) But blue isn’t just a colour. It’s a culture. Blue Monday: expression, clothing label, 1983 song by a band called New Order. Blue is a mood, blue is a controversial genre, Blue is Beyoncé’s baby. Look around the room where you’re reading this: how many blues do you see? I see seven. Artist Yves Klein loved the colour so much that he made his own shade, painted it exclusively on a canvas, and patented that shade now known as International Klein Blue. And while there may not be a superhero in blue, the two most important names in the industry (Super and Spider) have plenty of it in their costumes. Calvin Klein’s creative director of menswear, Italo Zucchelli, saw skies of blue (but not red roses too) and interpreted them literally and figuratively onto an almost exclusively blue collection. “It’s a celebration of summer, the colour of the summer,” Zucchelli told style.com. It was a vibrant celebration, taking one of the most calming colours on the spectrum and turning it into a visual statement by pairing it mostly with itself and occasionally with a little red, white, and black. Even the soles of the blue leather shoes were, you guessed it… Over to Dior Homme where designer Kris Van Assche did a Picasso and had a blue phase. There wasn’t quite as much blue as at Calvin, but then there’s a good chance Zucchelli bought up all the fabric first. (The full list of designers who featured
blue looks reads like a class register.) Van Assche’s collection reveals the easiest way to style the trend. Blue for Dummies: when in doubt, colour block in different shades. The collection made it easy, featuring trousers and jackets with different panels of the colour worked in for your convenience. These may not be quite so easy to find in South Africa, but the chances are you could walk right over to your closet and pull out a complete ensemble in blue. The idea is to keep the look as sleek as possible. Button up the shirt, zip up the jacket, let the pants fall as they may, as long as it’s not three quarters down your leg. Fit is of the utmost importance. The clothes need to be tight, but not skinny-jean tight. A second skin with air to breathe in between.
It was a vibrant celebration, taking one of the most calming colours on the spectrum and turning it into a visual statement by pairing it mostly with itself. But here’s the twist: avoid denim - that’s the key. If you can wear all blue this summer without any of it being denim, then you’re well on your way to rocking a trend (and joining a culture) so simple it could be summed up by a single colour. And simple as it may be, getting that perfect colour balance is a question of personal taste. It’s a very specific quest, like finding that line that separates the sky and the ocean.
T R O
P S LE
Y T S
FIG 1. Image provided.
survival of
THE FITTEST Jessica van Wyk on becoming a jeans and sneakers kind of girl.
I
never thought I would see the day where I wore jeans with sneakers (not “takkies”, as I am often told), let alone sneakers with an edgy minimalistic dress. I always believed that such attire was strictly reserved for airports and theme parks, and even in those places I considered the look unacceptable. But alas, this year sneakers, racer stripes, numbered shirts, baseball caps and college football jerseys abound as we see the sporty trend sprint from the catwalks onto the streets fused with touches of glamour. This sporty spirit is complemented with feminine lines, luxurious fabrics and a minimalistic monochrome palette to guarantee an elegant result. DKNY transformed workout wear into workday wear with Donna Karan pairing sneakers with almost every type of outfit imaginable. Baseball caps were the accessories of choice. The absence of any other accessories made for a chic and minimal collection. Sheer dresses covered full costumes while blazers were substituted by sleek anoraks. Sneakers were also a major feature at Marc by Marc Jacobs, with track pants being the most valued player. Form-fitting trousers were replaced with slouchy track pants, giving suits an edgier touch. Tracksuits, bomber jackets and dresses made of shimmering satin fabric were paired with high tops and a more obvious take of the trend was seen in a few cheerleading inspired outfits. Gucci showcased a sophisticated take on track pants, not interpreting the trend as literally as the DKNY and Marc by Marc Jacobs collections. Creative Director Frida Giannini introduced a great deal more sensuality into the athletic style by pairing sheer sports bras with mesh bomber jackets, billowing dresses and jumpsuits. The styling of this collection took the trend in a fresh direction, namely the wet-styled hair and minimal make up, which exuded that post-gym look. When looking at the sport-infused aspects of Prada’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, it is clear
that Miuccia Prada was inspired by cricket. Such inspiration is echoed in the striped woollen socks that featured in each look. Several pairs of these socks were embellished with chunky jewels, which resulted in a glamorous knockout of the athletic trend. This minimal use of the trend creates a subtle sophistication.
DKNY transformed workout wear into workday wear with Donna Karan pairing sneakers with almost every type of outfit imaginable. While the athletic trend is a crowd favourite from runway to real life, this by no means permits wearing a pair of takkies that you have had for ten years (you know, the ones with your toes popping out) with a pair of bellbottom jeans – a serious red card when it comes to the sport trend. An equally awful fashion foul is overdoing the whole trend; it turns a potentially elegant look into something distasteful. With the rise of athleticism, the boundaries of fashion have extended. This trend has made possible a common goal for many – acceptable comfort in fashion. Now, I have become that girl in the airport wearing sneakers with jeans, except the airport is not my only playing field. It seems safe to say that sport-infused fashion is truly a homerun and, at least in the near future, doesn’t appear to be striking out (too much with the sportrelated terms?).
D O
O F LE
Y T S
SWEET THING Bake a collection of runway inspired treats that will indulge for seasons to come. By Janet Swart.
Céline inspires a batch of brushstroke buscuits. First things first: these biscuits are not easy. That said, they’re not super complicated once you’ve got the hang of flooding, which shouldn’t take too long. This recipe won’t give an in-depth tutorial on flooding, so if this is your first time I suggest looking online for a video tutorial. Painting iced biscuits is one of the most fun and gratifying baking techniques around, so be inspired by the brushstroke designs and go wild! BISCUITS INGREDIENTS • 50g icing sugar • Naartjie zest • 100g butter, room temp • 150g flour • Naartjie juice METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 150oC. 2 Cream butter, zest and sugar until light and fluffy. 3 Add flour and work to a soft dough. If the mixture is too crumbly after a few minutes of kneading, gradually add a couple of teaspoons of naartjie juice and mix until it is a workable consistency, then leave to rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. 4 Once chilled and rested, roll out the dough to around 5mm thick and cut out desired shapes (I chose a fluted ring cutter, but anything will work).
5 Place biscuits onto a shiny baking tray and bake until firm and lightly browned, around 15 minutes (this varies depending on thickness and the size and shape of cutter used). 6 Place on a wire rack to cool. LEMON ROYAL ICING INGREDIENTS • 1 egg white • Juice of ½ a lemon • +- 400g icing sugar, sifted • Piping bags • Plenty of food colouring in different colours • Clear alcohol, such as vodka. METHOD 1 Place egg white and lemon juice into a spotlessly clean, medium metal bowl. 2 Whilst beating with a palette knife, slowly add the icing sugar,
about a tablespoon at a time, beating well between each addition. Continue adding and beating until the mixture is at ‘ribbon’ stage, and can hold its shape while still flowing easily. 3 Fill your piping bag to about 2/3 full, then cut a small hole at the bottom. 4 Pipe a border around the shape that you wish to flood. 5 Fill this shape with icing, smoothing out any gaps with a cocktail stick and popping any bubbles with a pin. 6 Either leave these overnight to dry, or dry them out in a low oven at around 45oC for 30 minutes. 7 Thin down your food colouring to your desired consistency with a few drops of alcohol, you won’t need much. Paint on whatever designs your heart desires onto your dried flooded biscuits.
Balenciaga inspries rosewater cupcakes. Like Alexander Wang’s first spring show for Balenciaga, these are classic with a twist. A vanilla base can be topped off with rose icing, with rose and fennel brittle, or with lemon icing and a rose geranium petal. The liquorice/rose/lemon combo might seem bizarre, but when looking at these gorgeous designs, I was reminded of some classic French sweets that my sister brought back from Paris for me. The outer shell was sweet lemon, the inside smooth rose, and right in the middle there was a surprise of a fennel seed. Perfectly unexpected and absolutely delicious. CUPCAKES
3
2
INGREDIENTS • 125g butter • 125g castor sugar • 125g self-raising flour • 1 t vanilla extract • 2 eggs • 2 T milk METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 190oC, and line 12-hole muffin tin with muffin papers. 2 Place all ingredients besides milk in the bowl of a mixer, and mix on a low speed until smooth and well blended. Add milk, and blend until the mixture drops easily from a spoon (dropping consistency). 3 Divide the batter up evenly, generally a heaped dessert spoon in each paper, and place in the oven for 18-20 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. 4 Slice off the top of each cupcake to create a flat base, and decorate as desired. ROSE FROSTING (1)
1
INGREDIENTS • 250g castor sugar • 4 egg whites • Pink food colouring • 2 t rose water METHOD 1 Place sugar and egg whites in a bowl over simmering water 2 Stir gently until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture reaches roughly 60oC (about 4 minutes) 3 Add a very small amount of colouring and the rose water, and pour into the bowl of a mixer. 4 Beat on full speed with the whisk attachment until
the mixture forms stiff, glossy peaks (about 3 minutes). 5 Using a rose-nozzle, pipe either roses or the classic swirl onto your cupcakes. LEMON ICING (2) INGREDIENTS • 1 cup icing sugar • Juice of 1 lemon METHOD 1 Place icing sugar in a bowl, then slowly add lemon juice until the mixture is of spreading consistency 2 Place about 1 teaspoon onto each cupcake, allowing to flow naturally as far as possible. Decorate with a rose or geranium petal once the icing has settled, but before it is fully dried. FENNEL BRITTLE (3) INGREDIENTS • 1 cup granulated sugar • ¼ cup boiling water • 2 T fennel seeds • Black gel colouring METHOD 1 Place sugar and water in a pot on a low heat 2 Stir until sugar is dissolved, taking care not to let the mixture boil before the granules are dissolved 3 Once the liquid is clear and all the sugar is dissolved, increase the heat and boil until the sugar turns a pale amber 4 While still on the heat, add the fennel seeds and two or three drops of colouring 5 Pour immediately onto a foil lined baking tray and allow to cool 6 Break into small pieces and use as sprinkles for the rose cupcakes
Christopher Kane inspries key lime pie. For this creation I was inspired by a lime-green Christopher Kane dress with cutouts outlined in white. I immediately thought of key-lime pie, not only because of the colour, but because of the freshness which reminded me of his innovation in design. I reflected the cutouts in piped cream, decorated with beautiful, but unusual, caramel dipped hazelnuts. INGREDIENTS 135g tennis biscuits, finely crushed 85g butter, melted 400g (1 tin) condensed milk 125g lime juice 2 t lime zest 2 eggs, separated METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 180oC, butter
FIG1-3. Photographed by Janet Swart..
6x10cm tartlet tins, or 1x20cm tart tin 2 Mix together biscuit crumbs and melted butter, and press them firmly around the tart tins to form a crust. Take care not to make the base too thick. Once the crust is formed, place into the fridge to set. 3 In a bowl, mix condensed milk, lime juice, zest and egg yolks together until thickened
4 In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks 5 Fold the egg whites into the condensed milk mixture, and pour into the chilled crusts. 6 Bake tartlets for 10 minutes, or large tart for 15 minutes, or until the mixture is just firm. 7 Cool before decorating with whipped cream as desired (or whatever else you like).
Y T S
IY D LE
CLEAN SLATE With the festive season just around the corner, why not give the gift of a luxurious bar of coconut oil, oats and honey soap? Thanks to DIY guru Barbara Fourie, you can make it yourself.
FIG 1. THE FINAL PRODUCT. Photographed by Barbara Fourie.
YOU’LL NEED • A Melt & Pour Glycerine 1kg soap bar (sold at Soap Factory – Maitland, Cape Town) • Assorted essential oils and exfoliates/herbs – I used coconut oil, honey and oats husks • Food processor • Glass bowl that fits into your microwave • Plastic spoon or scraper • Any square plastic container • Cooking spray
GET STARTED STEP 1: MELT THE SOAP Cut up the glycerine bar into blocks and place in glass bowl and melt in the microwave for 30 second intervals until melted. Stir often to break up big chunks of glycerine.
STEP 2: PREPARE THE OTHER INGREDIENTS While melting the glycerine, prepare 250ml coconut oil, 200ml honey and a cup of raw oats.
STEP 3: PREPARE CONTAINERS You can buy moulds in various shapes at the Soap Factory, but any plastic container will work, even yoghurt cups. Try and use something you can dispose of when finished rather than trying to clean it. Spray with cooking spray and wipe out excess.
STEP 4: ADD BEAUTY INGREDIENTS Once glycerine is melted, let it stand and cool for a few minutes. Before it sets too much, add the oil, honey and raw oats. Keep stirring to ensure the husks don’t all float to the bottom. When all the ingredients are added you can pour the mixture into the container.
STEP 5: LET IT SET Leave the soap for about an hour to cool and set. After that, put it in the freezer for about an hour. It should then pop right out. You can now slice it into different sized blocks if necessary and wrap it in gifts for your friends and loved ones.
style Varsity
THE SPRING EDIT STARTS HERE
FIG 1. BOLD FACES TO ACCOMPANY CLASSIC CLOTHES. Photographer: Chandre Busschau. Fashion Editor: DaniĂŤl Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Models: Katy Scott and Jared Musiker
EXHIBITION The spring collections were a visual feast. The message is clear: wear your art on your sleeve, your back and your feet. Illustrations by Simphiwe Ndzube.
FIG 1. (left) BRUSHSTROKE PRINT TUNIC OVER PLEATED SKIRT, PHOEBE PHILO FOR CÉLINE, PARIS. FIG 2. (right) RESORT-PRINT SHIRT WITH RELAXED BAGGY TROUSERS, MIUCCIA PRADA FOR PRADA, MILAN. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys.
FIG 3. SLOGAN TOP WITH CORRESPONDING SKIRT, CHRISTOPHER KANE, LONDON.
FIG 4. (left) 1950S SHIRT AND TROUSERS, ANGELA MISSONI FOR MISSONI, MILAN. FIG 5. (right) WOVEN DRESS, RICCARDO TISCI FOR GIVENCHY, PARIS.
FIG 6. COLOUR-BLOCK SLEEVELESS SUIT, KRIS VAN ASSCHE FOR DIOR HOMME, PARIS.
FIG 7. OVERSIZED PRINTED SHIRT AND SHORTS, KIM JONES FOR LOUIS VUITTON, PARIS.
FIG 8. MODERN VICTORIAN TOP, SHORTS AND COAT, MARC JACOBS, NEW YORK.
FIG 9. (top) ATHLETIC TRACKSUIT WITH 90S NECKSCARF, MARC JACOBS FOR MARC BY MARC JACOBS, NEW YORK. FIG 10. CASUAL SUIT, DONATELLA VERSACE FOR VERSACE, MILAN.
NOW FOREVER and
Timeless fashion looks change into the present with spring’s boldest beauty looks. Photographed by Chandre Busschau.
the denim trouser
Fashion Editor: DaniĂŤl Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Models: Katy Scott and Jared Musiker
The Prada-inspired headband. DIY it for a boho-chic party look.
The Alexander McQueen-inspired eye shadow. It’s a little bit punk rock. You should see the other guy.
the chino
the little black dress
The CĂŠline-inspired eyes. Symmetrical is so last season.
The Givenchy-inspired face. Only the bravest modern warrior wears this outside the trance tent.
the trench
the white shirt
The Chanel-inspired eyeshadow. Don’t shy away from a full spectrum.
The Costume National-inspired parting. Pick the best part of your hair and separate.
the black tee
ON TRACK Sring’s sporty girl is athletic, boyish, and slightly eccentric. Photographed by Lauren Theunissen.
FIG 1. (opposite) A PLEATED SKIRT REFLECTS THE STRAIGHT LINES OF THE RACE TRACK, AND IT’S ROMANTIC TOO. Dress with pleated skirt, R499, YDE; linen top, R950, Kat van Duinen. FIG 2. A SHEER WHITE DRESS OVER A CROP TOP AND SHORTS MAKES MONOTONE WHITE COME TO LIFE. Crop top, R599, Forever New, shorts, R249, Cotton On; sheer dress, R380, Rags to Riches; quilted cap, R350, 2Bop; socks and metallic sandals (worn throughout), stylist’s own. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Fashion Assistant: Immaculate Lwanga. Model: Minenhle Mbhele.
FIG 3. RUN FROM CLASS TO THE SPORTS CENTRE IN CORK FLATFORMS AND A TWO-TONE ANORAK. Anorak, R299, skirt, R199, sweater (tied around waist), R299, togbag, R249, all Cotton On; flatforms, R429, Zoom. FIG 4. (opposite) WEAR YOUR NUMBERED SHIRT DRESS OVER SHORTS, IN CASE OF WIND. Shirt dress, R499, Supremebeing; shorts, R299, Cotton On menswear.
FIG 5. (opposite) KEEP THINGS SIMPLE WITH SEPARATES THAT ALLOW FOR MAXIMUM MOVEMENT. Linen top, R600, Kat van Duinen; skirt, R199, Cotton On; jacket, R1 499, SupremeBeing; flatforms, R429, Zoom; togbag, R249, Cotton On. FIG 6. A LITTLE BLACK DRESS WITH AN ECLECTIC COLOUR BLOCK COLLAR CAN TAKE YOU FROM DAY TO NIGHT. Dress, R489, TopShop; visor, R349, Country Road. Click to shop this story.
this spring
DO BLUE Colour block it in a way that works for you. Photographed by Charlie Turnley.
FIG 1. OUT WITH THE V AND IN WITH THE ROUND. JUST THE NECK ON YOUR SHIRT CAN TELL VOLUMES ABOUT YOUR STYLE MODERNITY. T shirt, R249, Country Road; trousers, R450, Lucky Luke at YDE; watch (worn throughout), R199, Cotton On; ring (worn throughout), R129, TopMan. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Fashion Assistant: Immaculate Lwanga. Model: Vikash Gajjar
FIG 2. MORE THAN ONE COLOUR BLUE IN A SINGLE ITEM OF CLOTHING: THAT’S INTERESTING. Shirt, R1 050, SupremeBeing; trousers, R949, TopMan; shoes (worn thoroughout), R649, Call it spring; earring and socks (worn throughout), model’s own.
FIG 3. (opposite) SHOP FOR INTERESTING FABRICS. COUNTRY ROAD’S METALLIC BLAZER IS A POSTWINTER WINNER. Shirt, R100, and shorts, R399, Cotton On; jacket, R2 499, Country Road. FIG 4. DON’T FORGET YOUR SHOES CAN BE BLUE TOO. Shirt, R349, Country Road; trousers, R399, Cotton On; shoes, R649, Call it spring.
FIG 5. (opposite) AMP UP THE FORMALITY WITH TWO COLLARED SHIRTS. Buttoned up shirt, R369, TopMan; open collar shirt, R680, BlueCollarWhiteCollar. FIG 6. PLAYING WITH PROPORTIONS MEANS LONG SLEEVES, AND SHORT TROUSERS. Shirt, R425, and shorts, R425, X&O at YDE. Click to shop this story.
in her
WRITE MIND
Lauren Beukes went from UCT student to internationally acclaimed, multi award-winning author. Before jetting off to the next stop on the global press tour for her latest novel, she chats to Daniël Geldenhuys about the writing experience, her TV and movie deals, and why UCT was so important in making the dream a reality. Photographed by Riaan Giani.
FIG 1. ONE OF LAUREN’S FAVOURITE OFFICES AWAY FROM THE OFFICE IS THE ALEXANDER BAR ON THE CORNER OF LOOP AND STRAND STREET. Handmade leather earrings, R350, belt, R1 450, handbag (in foreground), R4 400, and canvas shopper R1 850, all Missibaba; dress, trousers and heels, Lauren’s own. Fashion Editor: Daniël Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Special thanks to The Alexander Bar.
I
n the ocean of charcoal, grey, brass and brown that is Truth Coffee, Lauren Beukes stands out. You don’t see a purple leather jacket everyday, and I’ve never seen a blonde sporting pink and blue streaks that are meant to last longer than 48 hours. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Lauren pulls off her eclectic hair hues – in person they look almost natural. That skill, of pulling together the real and the fantasy into something utterly compelling, has not just been useful in rocking the hair look, but also in launching an international literary career consisting mainly of four page-turners, a movie deal with big-shot local producer Helena Spring, and a TV deal with Leonardo DiCaprio’s production company. What the global fans don’t know is that it all kick-started at UCT. Back in Cape Town from her July/August UK book tour to rest for a few days, Lauren’s first stop was the physiotherapist. Singing over a thousand books will do that to you. “My arm was just screwed,” is her personal diagnosis. Apart from the near-crippling singing marathons, Lauren enjoys her promotion tours. She’d be happy never to set foot on a plane again, but she gets to see the world, and treat her fiveyear-old daughter with a Disney-packed trip to the states later this year. Her publicist organises the transport from A to B to crime festivals, (“Hanging out with crime writers is always fun. They’re actually the nicest people.”) giving her a page of Where and When which she follows to a T. Research trips for future novels, like the one to Detroit for her latest, the intriguingly titled Broken Monsters, are completely different. After Chicago’s The Shining Girls, Lauren was under contract to write one more book set in America for commercial reasons. Still, she had to pay for the trip herself, making any and all meetings without the help of a publisher. “I had to go there. A lot of people would not go there. A lot of people would read books and do Google maps.” With her background in journalism (which she aptly calls a backstage pass to the world), Lauren understands the value in experience. Broken Monsters, more than any of her other novels, features her personal experiences of a city remixed into the view of the character in question. “The Jonno chapter, where he goes
on that big party mission… that was all my experience. We went to this art show, which wasn’t as bad as I said it was. We went to the warehouse party and there was a guy who looked like an anorexic Viking.” Lauren’s dry humour comes in the form of a slightly unsettling piece of information, presented in a calm matter-offact tone. “I’m worried about him. I’m worried he’s gonna come find me and beat me.” Slightly more tricky than her research for the party chapter was getting an inside view of the Detroit Police Department. Kicking off with the discovery of a half-boy-half-deer body by a detective who’s never seen anything of the sort, Broken Monsters is partly the tale of a detective trying to find a disturbingly creative killer while keeping the case a secret from the media and dealing with the internal politics of a department with too much work and too little willpower. Lauren had emailed the police department. Her publisher had emailed the police department. Lauren had called the police department. “Not interested. Not getting back to me. I’d phone again and have to talk to a whole
Lauren gets her backstage pass to the world by being cheeky. “It means ask for what you want. But do it nicely. And accept rejection nicely. The world is flexible – you just have to ask.” new person and go through the whole process again…” Kind of like dealing with Telkom. So she asked her twitter followers if anyone had a connection with the DPD. Sure enough, someone knew someone who worked nearby who knew a retired officer. A few emails and tweets later, Lauren was buying doughnuts in
FIG 2. “I’M ALWAYS WORRIED,” SAYS LAUREN ABOUT ANTICIPATING THE REACTION TO HER BOOKS. “BUT I THINK THAT’S ALSO WHAT MAKES ME MORE AMBITIOUS.” Leather key chain, worn as broach, R250, and necklace, worn as armband (just seen), R100, Missibaba; printed dress and sleeveless trench, Lauren’s own.
FIG 2. BEING PART OF A PARTY AND PARLIAMENT WITH NO DRESS CODE WORKS WELL FOR LINDIWE. YOU WON’T CATCH HER DEAD IN A GREY TROUSER SUIT. Sequin top, made to order, Kat van Duinen.
FIG 3. SHE LIKENS SUCCESS (SEEING YOUR BOOK ON A LIFE SIZE BILLBOARD IN LONDON) TO HAVING A BIG BIRTHDAY. “OBVIOUSLY THINGS ARE DIFFERENT, BUT I DON’T REALLY FEEL THAT DIFFERENT INSIDE.” Canvas shopper, R1 850, metal and leather necklaces, worn as armbands, R100 each; leather earrings (just seen), R350, all Missibaba; jacket, dress, trousers, and heels, Lauren’s own.
Detroit in order to make a good first impression at the homicide department. All you need to do, she says, is crack that chain. “You just have to be persistent. As soon as you’re through that crack in the door, you’re in.” Since becoming a novelist and putting her journalism days behind her, Lauren gets her backstage pass to the world by being cheeky. “It means ask for what you want. But do it nicely. And accept rejection nicely. The world is flexible – you just have to ask.” The only place her cheek has completely failed her is getting an upgrade to business class. She came close shortly after winning the Arthur C. Clarke award for Zoo City, but the airline supervisor was nowhere to be found. Based on her track record, and if using a prestigious award to get you an upgrade indeed works, she won’t have to wait much longer.
D
oing her Masters in Creative Writing at UCT was an essential journey. If she hadn’t done the course, the Lauren Beukes we know today would most likely be an unknown. “I’d be one of those failed people who just sits and talks about the novel they’re one day gonna write. It gave me a framework and a deadline. And it forced me to take my writing seriously. ” Right now, Lauren’s working on pitches for new books. I ask her if she’s excited to get started on the next one to which she exclaims: “I want to lie down.” Her much needed rest will no doubt set the scene for the mental birth of her next best-seller – she says her best ideas show themselves when she’s not focusing on work. As Lauren continues to focus on her novels (and a comic with Jerry Hifi which will also be set in America, but will feature a South African character), others are working on adapting her work for the screen. Oscar nominated producer Helena Spring has taken Zoo City under her wing; a screenplay is being developed as you read this. “It’s the thirty million dollars that’s a problem. Because every scene has magical animals.” And then there’s the plan to bring The Shining Girls to the small screen. Yes, Leo DiCapro’s company is producing. No, Lauren has not met Leo DiCaprio.
Having her books developed by production companies means a substantial relinquishing of creative rights. Lauren’s not worried. She’s collaborated countless times in her career history as comic book writer, journalist, and television writer. She knows it all depends on who’s taking the reigns of the production process: “It depends on who the director is. If it’s Michael Bay and he’s gonna make like four hundred million dollars, and he’s gonna put transformers in it… I don’t think he’s gonna listen to me.” What she’s hoping for is a director with a strong vision and the creative know-how to make her work even better. “If it’s the right relationship with the right director then I will have some say. I’m not going to fight unless you’re destroying it. Unless you are Michael Baying it.”
“If it’s the right relationship with the right director then I will have some say. I’m not going to fight unless you’re destroying it. Unless you are Michael Baying it.” One thing you’ll notice about Lauren Beukes is that, though she’s honest about the things that challenge her, she never complains. Her tone softens when talking about her novels – like she’s talking about a loved one or an idyllic holiday. She’s wanted to be a writer since she was her daughter’s age, and now that she’s living the dream, she’s content to continue this way indefinitely. “I’ve kind of hit the apex now,” she says in a matter-of-fact tone. “It’s probably gonna be down hill from here.” Her humility would be funny if it weren’t so sincere. And even if it were the beginning of the downhill slope, she’s got her seatbelt tightly fastened. “That’s the fun part of the roller coaster, right? It goes up again… you get back on. Be okay.”
FIG 4. BROKEN MONSTERS WON’T BE HER LAST NOVEL. “I HAVE A SEEDLING IN THE BACK. I DON’T KNOW WHAT IT’S TURNING INTO YET, BUT I KNOW IF I JUST GIVE IT SOME WATER OCCASIONALLY AND THEN LEAVE IT ALONE, IT’LL TURN INTO SOMETHING INTERESTING.“ Leather earrings, R350, and leather and metal necklaces, worn as armbands, R100 each, Missibaba; dress and jacket, Lauren’s own. Click to shop this story.
FIG 1. SOMETHING BODY CONSCIOUS FLARES INTO PLEATED PERFECTION FOR THE PERFECT NEWSEASON BALANCE OF TIGHT AND LOOSE Printed dress, R549, pleated skirt, R999, bangles, R79.99 each, all TopShop; metal earrings, R39.95, Woolworths; flatforms (worn throughout), price on request, Missibaba. Fashion Editor: DaniĂŤl Geldenhuys. Beauty Director: Barbara Fourie. Fashion Assistant: Immaculate Lwanga. Models:Jahaan van der Ross and Simphiwe Skosana.
LOUDER
A burst of optimistic colour, print, and texture, grounded with boho and safari separates turn up the volume on Spring 2014’s bold mood. Photographed by Lauren Theunissen.
FIG 2. IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE – SO SAYS THIS SEASON’S LUSH LEAF PRINTS. READY FOR YOUR EXPLORATION. Printed sweater, R390, and matching hat, R250, Holmes Bros; printed blazer, R1 100, Markham; shorts, R1 199, SupremeBeing, flatforms (worn throughout), price on request, Missibaba.
FIG 3. A SIMPLE SPRING COAT DETERS THE BREEZE AND SOFTENS LOUD PRINT. Printed tunic, R1 499, Mari and Me; trousers, R749, Forever New; coat, R699, Cotton On; metal cuff, R69.95, and earrings, R39.95, Woolworths.
FIG 4. WITH THREE COLOURS PAISLEY, THINGS COULD GET PLAYFUL. Shirt, R680, BlueCollarWhiteCollar; hoodie, R249, Cotton On; shorts, R399, Markham; wooden armbands (worn throughout), stylist’s own.
FIG 5. GO AHEAD AND GET AS LOUD AS YOUR COLOUR-BLOCK PANTS ARE BOLD. Vest, R99, Markham; jacket, R1 299, Country Road; chinos, R399, Markham.
FIG 6. SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A GIRL IN A METALLIC DRESS DESIGNED BY UCT’S VERY OWN GEORGIA EAST. Metallic dress, R600, Fortune at Spree.co.za; raffia clutch, R399, Country Road; earrings, R229, Accessorize.
FIG 7. MORE IS MORE WHEN IT COMES TO TEXTURE THIS SEASON. IF IT DOESN’T FEEL GOOD, DON’T WEAR IT. Lace-trim top, R399, TopShop; metallic-thread throusers, R1 100, Kat van Duinen; brush-stroke print scarf with tassels, R549, and ruffia clutch, R399, Country Road.
FIG 8. A PRINTED GOLFER IS THE ULTIMATE IN TROPICAL VACATION CHIC, NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE. Faded print golfer, R199, denim track pants, R599, backpack, R299, all Cotton On; printed ties, R400 each, Kat van Duinen; printed hat, R400, Unknown Union.
FIG 9. MODERNISE CAMO WITH A SOFT MONOTONE PRINTED SHIRT. Striped t shirt, R199, TopMan; printed shirt, R340, Markham; camo trousers, R950, Unknown Union; hat, R350, 2Bop, printed tie, R400, Kat van Duinen.
FIG 10. BRING OUT YOUR INNER ARTIST WITH PRINTED PIECES THAT LOOK AS THOUGH THEY WERE PAINTED (OR KISSED) WITH A FINE TOUCH. Blouse, R999, Country Road; trousers, R999, SupremeBeing; coat, R2 799, Mari and Me; hat, R349, Cotton On; bangles, R99.95 (for a set of four), Woolworths.
FIG 11. MARI AND ME’S LACE TEA DRESS GETS AN EDGY SPIN WHEN PAIRED WITH AN ASYMMETRIC SKIRT FROM WOOLWORTHS. Dress, R1 399, Mari and Me; skirt, R350, Woolworths, three bangles, R79 each, TopShop, two bangles, R299 each, Accessorize. Click to shop this story.
THE ORIGIN
Busang Senne reports from London: the city where fearless fashion is the norm.
T
ranscendental dreams burned into the asphalt, a milky-way where Vivienne Westwood punk and Burberry, shining all sugary and sherbet, meet to make a collision of street and high street, a world of opposites attracting like magnetic force fields. This is London style – 16 hole emerald green Doc Martens and 16 inch Christian Louboutin, side by side in a kaleidoscope of grunge and glory. Pre-London, circa 2011, I wouldn’t say my style was generic, but I will say I was afraid of crossing certain lines, of going certain places, fearful of the outrageous. The thing is, in the mother city of Topshop, The Sex Pistols, a smorgasbord of rebellion, nobody cares. I once saw a girl in Camden with electric pink hair, pierced to the nines, combat boots and skateboard, and I’ve never seen someone cooler. London reeks of cool. Praise aside, we all know that the Pound is currency born from Satan himself, and at 18.95 to the Rand, even high street favourites at affordable prices like Sweden’s H&M, will cost you a pretty Queen-splattered penny. Seeing as few of us are likely to afford the full experience of Alexander McQueen or Mulberry on Oxford Street, Camden Market is perfect for students on a budget, filled with markets and treasures from Rockit to Beyond Retro. I’m here to put the rumour of Topshop there being
less expensive than Topshop here: it isn’t. Urban Outfitters is a modern sandalwood-coloured loft with all my Tumblr daydreams of the 90s revival in one building, kimonos and dungarees and acidwashed galore. Monki in Soho is a favourite, ostrich feathered coats and graphic jumpers and tees. What’s hashtagtrending in the concrete jungle? Nikes. Floral roshe’s, all-black Air Max’s, Stefan Janoski’s, the Just Do It tick skidding every corner. If you go to any department store, Selfridges
16 hole emerald green Doc Martens and 16 inch Christian Louboutin, side by side in a kaleidoscope of grunge and glory being the most impressive (and most expensive), you’ll find BOY London, Criminal Damage, The Kooples, Opening Ceremony, and countless floors of coveted designers and brands. In London, anything is possible, and the only rule is that there are no rules. March to the beat of your own drum and stride to unknown heights.
FIG 1. ACCESSORIZE’S LEMON BAG IS A BRIGHT SPRING STATEMENT. PICK IT OFF YOUR NEAREST SHELF (OR TREE) ASAP. Bag, R599, and necklace, R349, Accessorize. Fashion Editor: Barbara Fourie.Fashion Assistant: Immaculate Lwanga.
FINDERS KEEPERS Keep your friends close, and your colour-block accessories closer. Photographed by Barbara Fourie.
FIG 2. WHY HAVE BLURRED LINES WHEN YOU CAN HAVE CLEAR ONES? Sling bag, R899, Country Road; belt, R349, Trenery
FIG 3. MONOCHROME AND A POP OF PINK WILL BRIGHTEN ANY DULL SPACE. Bag, R129, Cotton On; necklace, R120, Woolworths.
FIG 4. WHEN CRAMMING FOR FINALS, IT’S OKAY TO THROW THE SARTORIAL FORMALITIES (HATS, TIES, ETC.) TO THE SIDE. Hat, R350, 2Bop; raw silk tie, R600, Kat van Duinen.
FIG 5. COLOUR GOES TO THE NEXT LEVEL WHEN COMBINED WITH INTERESTING SHAPES. Heels, R1 499, Aldo; clutch, R299, Forever New.
FIG 6. STEP UP TO THE IDEA OF A BLOCK-COLOUR TIE OR BOWTIE. Raw silk tie, R600, Kat van Duinen; leather-look bowtie, R129, TopMan. Click to shop this story.
Y R O
Like what you see? Find it here.
T C E
R I D E L
Y T S
CLICK STORE TO SHOP
2BOP
ACCESSORIZE
ALDO
BLUECOLLARWHITECOLLAR
CALL IT SPRING
COTTON ON
COUNTRY ROAD
FOREVER NEW
HOLMES BROS
KAT VAN DUINEN
MARI AND ME
MARKHAM
MISSIBABA
RAGS TO RICHES
SPREE
SUPREMEBEING
TOPSHOP TOPMAN
TRENERY
UNKNOWN UNION
WOOLWORTHS
YDE
ZOOM
Photographed by Lauren Theunissen.
style Varsity