Fox Valley Rose Society
Member Education Classification of Roses
Roses
Family: Rosaceae
Genus: Rosa
The name ‘rose’ comes from Latin ‘rosa’ which derives from the ancient Greek ‘rhoden’ meaning ‘red’.
Classification of Roses
The American Rose Society recently approved a new classification scheme that reflects both the botanical and evolutionary progress of the rose. There are three main groupings: SPECIES (i.e. native or wild roses) OLD GARDEN ROSES (classes in existences before 1867) MODERN ROSES (classes not in existence before 1867) Species Roses Species (Sp) Old Garden Roses Alba (A) Ayrshire (Ayr) Bourbon & Climbing Bourbon (B & Cl B) Boursalt (Bslt) Centifolia (C) China & Climbing China (Ch & Cl Ch) Damask (D) Hybrid Bracteata (HBc) Hybrid China & Climbing Hybrid China (HCh & Cl HCh) Hybrid Eglanteria (HEg) Hybrid Foetida (HFt) Hybrid Gallica (HGal) Hybrid Multiflora (HMult) Hybrid Perpetual & Climbing Hybrid Perpetual (HP & Cl HP) Hybrid Sempervirens (HSem) Hybrid Setigera (HSet) Hybrid Spinosissima (HSpn) Miscellaneous OGRs (Misc. OGR) Moss & Climbing Moss (M & Cl M) Noisette (N) Portland (P) Tea & Climbing Tea (T & Cl T) Modern Roses Floribunda & Climbing Floribunda (F & Cl F) Grandiflora & Climbing Grandiflora (Gr & Cl Gr) Hybrid Gigantea (HG) Hybrid Kordesii (HKor) Hybrid Moyesii (HMoy) Hybrid Musk (HMsk) Hybrid Rugosa (HRg) Hybrid Tea & Climbing Hybrid Tea (HT & Cl HT) Hybrid Wichurana (HWich) Large-Flowered Climber (LCl) Miniature & Climbing Miniature (Min & Cl Min) Mini-Flora & Climbing (MinFl & Cl MinFl) Polyantha & Climbing Polyantha (Pol & Cl Pol) Shrub (S)
Roses
Family: Rosaceae
Genus: Rosa
The name ‘rose’ comes from Latin ‘rosa’ which derives from the ancient Greek ‘rhoden’ meaning ‘red’. In general, roses are placed in one of three main categories: Wild, Old Garden, and Modern Garden roses. WIld, or Species, Roses The rose species are endemic to the Northern Hemisphere of the globe only. They have occurred without much deliberate help from man. Fossil evidence from 35 million years ago (the Oligocene epoch) tells us that some rose species did exist at that time. The fossil specimens found most closely resemble the still extant species, R. nutkana, and R. palustris. In Mesopotamia, there have been discoveries of Cuneiform tablets which repeatedly use the word, "amurdinnu", which is thought to mean 'bramble', or 'wild rose'. The historical records of the genus Rosa are rich and many, illustrating that many ancient cultures valued these shrubs as we do now.
rosa canina
The English archaeologist William Flinders Petrie (18531942) discovered in the tombs of Hawara, Egypt, wreaths made of flowers, among them, roses! The wreaths date to about AD 170, and represent the oldest preserved record of a rose species still living. It is believed that the specimens are Rosa x richardii, also known as Rosa sancta (reputedly still to be found in Ethiopia). General characteristics: • flowers: simple, natural looking, usually single-petaled (4-8 petals) • once blooming (non-remontant) • canes: long, arching, fairly well branched • will tolerate a bit more shade (< 6 hours of sun) • shrub size: 2-20' • good at the edge of a woodland
rosa chinensis, 'Old Blush'
Natural species and some of their hybrids include: • rosa canina, the Dog Rose • rosa chinensis, the China Rose • rosa moschata, the Musk Rose
rosa moschata
• rosa banksiae, Lady Banks' Rose, white, single, before 1794 -ARS 8.3 • rosa banksiae banksiae, white, double, 1807 -ARS 9.2 • rosa banksiae lutea, light yellow, double 1824 -ARS 9.1 rosa banksiae lutea
• rosa pimpinellifolia, the Scots or Burnet Rose (prior classification as rosa spiniosissima)
rosa pimpinellifolia
• rosa rubiginosa, the Sweetbriar or Eglantine, light pink, single, before 1551 -ARS 8.4
rosa rubiginosa
• rosa foetida, in varieties Austrian Copper 'Bicolor', Persian Double and Harison's Yellow. -- is the source of yellow in modern-day hybrids -- plants found in cultivation are often selected clones that are propagated vegetatively
rosa foetida, 'Bicolor'
• rosa bracteata, The McCartney Rose - species first identified in 1675, China.
rosa bracteata
• rosa foliolosa - fern-like bright green foliage, summer bloom, bright pink blooms
rosa foliolosa
• rosa nutkana - similar to rose fossil evidence of 35 million years ago from Oligocene epoch
rosa nutkana
• rosa rugosa - origin: Japan; glossy green leaves and splendid orange hips as well as its large, beautiful flowers; colors: pink, red, purple, yellow mauve, before 1846 -ARS 9.1 • rosa rugosa alba, white, single, 1784 -ARS 9.1
rosa rugosa
â&#x20AC;˘ rosa sericea ptericantha, Dragon Wings Rose or Wingthorn Rose most unusual, introduced into commerce in 1890, fairly tender Chinese species; intense large red thorns are its main attraction and can become 2" tall, standing out 1" from canes, brilliant ruby red and semi-transparent until late season, then turning to dull brown, white, single, 1890 -ARS 8.3
rosa sericea ptericantha
rosa sericea ptericantha, close-up of thorns
rosa sericea ptericantha, thorns late-season
rosa sericea ptericantha, flower
â&#x20AC;˘ rosa wichuraiana variegata -China. Date of discovery uncertain; climber/rambler, variegated foliage is a genetic trait not a result of virus infection; know in commerce as 'Curiosity'
rosa wichuraiana variegata
â&#x20AC;˘ rosa woodsii fendleri -North American native; prefers semi-shaded habitat
rosa woodsii fendleri
rosa alpina, or Boursault rose
OLD GARDEN ROSES (OGR) Also known as Antique, Heirloom or Heritage Roses. Defined as any rose belonging to a class which existed before the introduction of the first Modern Rose (hybrid tea), 'La France', in 1867. Characteristics: • once blooming each season • • • •
blooms only on two-year-old canes fragrant double-flowered blooms color: shades of white, pink and red
rare rosa arvensis, or field rose Ayrshire Splendens
A new class of OGR developed in 1800 with the introduction of China and Tea roses: • blooms on new growth • repeat blooms per season (remontant) OGR's are classified in one of the following groups:
• Alba
• Bourbon
• Centifolia
• China
• Damask
• Gallica
• Hybrid Perpetual
• Moss
• Noisette
• Portland
• Tea
rosa alpina, or Boursault rose
• Miscellaneous - some climbing classes of old roses (including Ayrshire, Climbing China, Laevigata, Sempervirens, Boursault, Climbing Tea, and Climbing Bourbon) rosa laevigata, the Cherokee rose
ALBA • literally "white roses", derived from R. arvensis and R. x alba (R. x alba is a hybrid of R. gallica and R. canina) • This group contains some of the oldest garden roses • flower once yearly in the spring, 4 week duration • flowers are white or pale pink • most have many petals • fragrant • gray-green foliage • shrubby, or can have a climbing habit of growth • disease resistant; won't get black spot 'Maiden's Blush', an alba rose (before 1400)
BOURBON • originated on the Île Bourbon (now called Réunion) off the coast of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean • believed to be the result of a cross between the Autumn Damask and the 'Old Blush' China rose, both of which were frequently used as hedging materials on the island • first Introduced in France in 1823 • flower repeatedly, but the tougher cultivars are not remontant • vigorous, frequently semi-climbing shrubs • glossy foliage • purple-tinted canes • bloom style: cupped or old rose form • often strongly fragrant • most are highly susceptible to black spot
'Climbing Souvenir de la Malmaison', a bourbon rose
CENTIFOLIA • also known as Cabbage roses, or as Provence roses • derived from damask roses crossed with albas, raised in the 17th century in the Netherlands. • named for their "one hundred" petals • often called "cabbage" roses due to the globular shape of the flowers • all are once-flowering, 4 week duration • As a class, they are notable for their inclination to produce mutations of various sizes and forms, including moss roses and some of the first miniature roses a centifolia, or cabbage rose
CHINA • Based on Rosa chinensis, have been cultivated in East Asia for centuries; cultivated in Western Europe since the late 18th century; AKA: the Bengal rose • They contribute much to the parentage of today's hybrid roses • Compared with the older rose classes known in Europe, the Chinese roses had less fragrant, smaller blooms carried over twiggier, more cold-sensitive shrubs. • Bloom repeatedly throughout the summer and into late autumn, unlike their European counterparts. • Notable for blossom's tendency to "suntan," or darken over time — unlike other blooms which tended to fade after opening. This made them highly desirable for hybridization purposes in the early 19th century. • Tradition holds that four "stud China" roses ['Slater's Crimson China' (1792), 'Parsons' Pink China' (1793), and the Tea roses 'Hume's Blush Tea-scented China' (1809) and 'Parks' Yellow Tea-Scented China' (1824)] were brought to Europe in the late eighteenth and early 19th centuries • shrubby form of shiny foliage • bears large clusters of medium-sized flowers • shades of pink and red
'Parson's Pink China' or 'Old Blush,' one of the "stud Chinas"
DAMASK • Named for Damascus in Syria, Damask roses originated in ancient times with a natural cross Rosa x damascena (Rosa moschata x Rosa gallica) x Rosa fedtschenkoana. • Robert de Brie is given credit for bringing damask roses from the Middle East to Europe sometime between 1254 and 1276, although there is evidence from ancient Roman frescoes that at least one damask rose existed in Europe for hundreds of years prior (6th century). • bloom once in summer • 'Autumn' or 'Four Seasons' damasks bloom again later, in the fall: the only repeat-flowering Old European roses. • sprawling growth habits and vicious thorns • numerous petals of pink or white • have a more loose petal formation than gallicas • strong tangy fragrance. FVTC Example: 'Madame Hardy'
'Madame Hardy', a damask cultivar
GALLICA • AKA: Rose of Provins, French roses • Developed from Rosa gallica, a native of central and southern Europe and western Asia. • 'The Apothecary's Rose', R. gallica officinalis, was grown in monastic gardens in the Middle Ages, and became famous in English history as the 'Red Rose of Lancaster'. • flowers once in the summer, 3-4 week duration • flower form is simple or double, large but flat • mostly thornless • all varieties very fragrant • compact shrubs rarely over 4' tall • wide color palette, includes 'rich' or 'intense' shades of pink, red, maroon and deep purplish crimson (almost black)
HYBRID PERPETUAL • The dominant class of roses in Victorian England. • Emerged in 1838 as the first roses which successfully combined Asian remontancy (repeat blooming) with the old European lineages. Since re-bloom is a recessive trait, the first generation of Asian/European crosses (Hybrid Chinas, Hybrid Bourbons, Hybrid Noisettes) were stubbornly once-blooming, but when these roses were recrossed with themselves or with Chinas or teas, some of their offspring flowered more than once. The Hybrid Perpetuals thus were something of a miscellany, a catchall class derived to a great extent from the Bourbons but with admixtures of Chinas, teas, damasks, gallicas, and to a lesser extent Noisettes, albas and even centifolias. • They became the most popular garden and florist roses of northern Europe at the time, as the tender tea roses would not thrive in cold climates, and the Hybrid Perpetuals' very large blooms were well-suited to the new phenomenon of competitive exhibitions. • The "perpetual" in the name hints at repeat-flowering, but many varieties of this class had poor re-flowering habits; the tendency was for a massive spring bloom, followed by either scattered summer flowering, a smaller autumn burst, or sometimes nothing at all until next spring**. • blooms all summer, but unreliable** • limited color palette: white, tones of pink and red • large flowers • good fragrance, scent strength varies with cultivar • height variance dependant upon cultivar; shorter compact cultivars less likely to rebloom
Gallica rose 'Charles de Mills', before 1790
'La Reine', a hybrid perpetual
Ducher 1869, a noisette
MOSS • a mutation of Rosa centifolia, or Damask roses • a large group with varying characteristics • mostly pink, some whites and dark reds • flower looks very similar to Damasks and Centifolias • bear greenish or reddish mossy resin-bearing glands on the sepals that often give off a pleasant woodsy or balsam scent when rubbed • have contributed nothing to the development of new rose classifications • if centifolia background, are once-flowering, 3-4 weeks • if exhibit repeat-blooming, indicative of Autumn Damask parentage • covered with very small thorns, hair-like
'Nuits De Young', a moss rose
detail of resin-bearing glands on sepals of a moss rose NOISETTE • First Noisette rose was raised as a hybrid seedling by a South Carolina rice planter named John Champneys. Its parents were the China Rose 'Parson's Pink' and the autumn-flowering musk rose (Rosa moschata), resulting in a vigorous climbing rose producing huge clusters of small pink flowers from spring to fall. • Champneys sent seedlings of his rose (called 'Champneys' Pink Cluster') to his gardening friend, Philippe Noisette, who in turn sent plants to his brother Louis in Paris, who then introduced 'Blush Noisette' in 1817. • well branched, vigorous climbing rose • reasonably disease resistant • remontant, begins bloom later in summer • fragrant • limited color palette: white, yellow and apricot varieties • needs winter protection
vigorous climber, the 'Blush Noisette'
PORTLAND • original Portland Rose has no Chinese ancestry, but has an 'Autumn' damask/gallica lineage • named after Margaret Cavendish Bentinck, the second Duchess of Portland who received (from Italy about 1775) a rose then known as R. paestana or 'Scarlet Four Seasons' Rose (now known simply as 'The Portland Rose')… whole class of Portland roses was developed from that one rose • The first repeat-flowering class of rose with fancy European-style blossoms • fairly short and shrubby form; has a suckering habit, with proportionately short flower stalks • color palette: pink or red • either semi-double or fully double flowers • main flowering is in the summer, but intermittent flushes continue into the autumn FVTC Example: 'Rose de Rescht'
TEA • The original Tea-scented Chinas (Rosa x odorata) were Oriental cultivars thought to represent hybrids of R. chinensis with R. gigantea, a large Asian climbing rose with pale-yellow blossoms. • The British introduced the first two cultivars to the West in 1810 and 1824. • named for their fragrance being reminiscent of Chinese black tea • first grown as greenhouse plants due to fraility of canes and blossoms being susceptible to damage by weather; French hybridizers began cross-breeding seeking improvements • the most important crosses were with the Bourbons; this began a new race of Teas, most of which were quite unlike the old ones: large, vigorous, thick-limbed shrubs, often with perfectly healthy, beautiful glossy foliage • colors range throughout the rose palette -reds, pinks, whites, blushes, yellows, buff, apricot, oranges-, but most special to Teas are the colors of dawn: tones of gold, warm pink, and shadings into each other, with delicate tints and highlightings • flowers semi-pendent and nodding, due to weak flower stalks • pointed buds produce high-centred blooms which unfurl in a spiral fashion, and the petals tend to roll back at the edges, producing a petal with a pointed tip • Teas are thus the originators of today's "classic" florists' rose form... the Hybrid Tea • not hardy in colder climate, need winter protection
'Rose de Rescht', a Portland rose
Tea rose, 'Lady Hillingdon'
Tea rose, 'Catherine Mermet'
MODERN GARDEN ROSES (MGR) Many modern roses have old garden roses in their ancestry. Roses introduced after 1867 are considered Modern Roses, following the introduction of the first hybrid tea, 'La France' by the French breeder Guillot which was considered unique. It possessed the general habit of a hybrid perpetual and the elegant shaped buds and free-flowering character of a tea rose. Breeders recognized planned hybridization could evolve new flower forms, size, growth habit and colors. MGR General Characteristics: • not as highly fragrant as Old Garden Roses (OGR) • more vibrant in color with larger blooms than OGRs
'La France', first hybrid tea introduced in 1867 by Jean-Baptiste Guillot
• most are repeat flowering • not as hardy as OGRs; need winter protection MGR's are classified in one of the following groups:
• Canadian Hardy roses
• Climbing/Rambling
• English roses
• Floribunda and Mini-Flora
• Grandiflora
• Hybrid Kordesii
• Hybrid Musk
• Hybrid Rugosa
• Hybrid Tea
• Landscape/Shrub roses
• Miniature
• Polyantha
Guillot also introduced the first polyantha rose, 'Paquerette', in 1875, 'Mignonette' (above) followed in 1881.
'Soleil d'Or', bred by Pernet-Ducher, 1900 Originally considered a separate class, the Pernetianas or Hybrid Foetidas were officially merged into the Hybrid Teas in 1930.
CANADIAN HARDY ROSES Crosses of native Canadian species and more tender roses, developed by Agriculture Canada at the Morden Research Station in Morden, Manitoba and the Experimental Farm in Ottawa (and later at L'Assomption, Québec). • Developed for the extreme weather conditions of Canadian winters, some down to -31°F (-35°C) • 2 main lines: the Parkland series and the Explorer series • These programs have now been discontinued; however the remaining plant stock has been taken over by private breeders via the Canadian Artists series • other cultivars: Canadian Heritage, Brownell Sub-Zero, Griffith Buck Roses FVTC examples include: 'Morden Centennial', 'Morden Sunrise, 'Winnipeg Parks'
rosa 'Morden Centennial', FVTC CLIMBING/RAMBLING ROSES • Ramblers: - closer to the original wild rose - grow vigorously, can take up a lot of space - typically 7 leaflets, glossy foliage - canes very flexible, arching habit - flower on the previous year's wood - usually they need 2-3 years to start flowering - huge clusters of small flowers, 'Floribunda' style - most have a fragrance - one flush in summer, 3-4 week duration - height: 20'–30' is common - requires awkward pruning rituals in summer, after bloom - some cultivars are evergreen, bear hips • Climbers: - typically 5 leaflets - canes rigidly upright - flowers on new wood - produce fewer but larger flowers - repeat bloom throughout the summer - some have fragrance, some have none - grow between 8'–20' in height - less old wood needs cutting out when pruning
rosa 'Dorothy Perkins', a rambler
Both types must be manually trained and tied over vertical or horizontal structures such as trellises, arbors, pergolas, fences or espaliers. Horizontal training creates more blooms. rosa 'Dortmund', a climber
ENGLISH ROSES • started in the 1960s by David Austin of Shropshire, England • Austin desired to combine the best of old and new: - restoring old rose qualities: - romantic old rose form - intense fragrance - shrubbiness - vigor and disease resistance - combined with new rose qualities: - modern repeat-blooming characteristics - larger modern color range Austin largely succeeded, but the typical winter-hardiness and disease-resistance of the classic Old Garden Roses became compromised in the process; many are susceptible to mildew and black spot and need winter protection. FLORIBUND and MINI-FLORA ROSES FLORIBUNDAS were first developed by the firm of Poulsen in Denmark, with the idea to produce hardy roses suitable for the Scandinavian climate. • 1909, the first Polyantha/Hybrid Tea cross, 'Gruss an Aachen,' was created • first known as Hybrid Polyanthas, until they were renamed Floribundas in 1950 • Floribunda: Latin for "many-flowering" • combines the prolific flowering and carefree constitution of the best polyanthas with the many rich colors and nice forms of the hybrid tea roses. • features stiff shrubs, low-growing, smaller and bushier than the average Hybrid Tea but less dense and sprawling than the average Polyantha • flowers are often smaller than hybrid teas but are carried in large sprays • found in all hybrid tea colours and with the classic hybrid tea-shaped blossom • hardier, more free flowering and displaying better disease resistance than the Hybrid Teas • but, susceptible to a myriad of pest and disease problems FVTC Example: Europeana, Shiela's Perfume, Cinco de Mayo, Playboy
English roses, by David Austin
rosa 'Europeana', a Floribunda
MINI-FLORA: • intermediate in size and foliage between miniatures and floribundas • A newly introduced class that covers cluster-flowered bush roses less than 2.5 feet tall but larger than Miniatures. • Replaces the common term Patio rose. FVTC Example: Ambiance, Caledonia, Sassy Cindy rosa 'Ambiance', a Mini-Flora
GRANDIFLORA ROSES • Grandiflora: Latin for "large-flowered" • created in the mid-20th century to designate back-crosses between hybrid teas and floribundas that fit neither category • typically larger than either hybrid teas or floribundas; often over 6' tall • hybrid tea-style flowers borne in small clusters of 3-5, similar to a floribunda • favorites of rose gardeners who love to cut bouquets of long stemmed large flowers • have many petals, blooms repeatedly FVTC Example: Ch-Ching, Earth Song, Rock 'n Roll
rosa 'Queen Elizabeth' grandiflora, introduced in 1954
HYBRID KORDESII ROSES • created by German hybridizer Reimer Kordes in 1952. • they are low growing climbers with glossy foliage • incorporates some R. rugosa traits: generally hardy and disease resistant FVTC Example: Cape Diamond, William Baffin, John Cabot
rosa 'Cape Diamond', a hybrid kordesii
HYBRID MUSK ROSES • bred by Joseph Pemberton between 1913 and 1926 • shrubby form • generally cluster-flowered • repeat flowering • typically have a strong, characteristic "musk" scent • stems tend to be lax and arching, with limited thorns • disease-resistant
rosa 'Buff Beauty', a hybrid musk
HYBRID RUGOSA ROSES • Hybrids of hybrid teas and R. rugosa • foliage is characteristically leathery and heavily patterned • flowers attractive but with limp petals so they don't last well as cut flowers • thorny and dense • their rosehips are valued as an excellent source of vitamin C • do not tolerate insecticidal or antifungal sprays well • works well as a hedge or landscape rose FVTC Examples: Linda Campbell, Topaz Jewel, Snow Pavement, Grootendorst Supreme
HYBRID TEA ROSES • initially created by hybridising Hybrid Perpetuals with Tea roses in the late 1800s • 'La France', created in 1867, is universally acknowledged as the first indication of a new class of roses • the oldest cultivar group classified as a modern garden rose • Described as the “classic rose” and one of the most soughtafter rose species for florists • available in almost every color • many have little to no fragrance • long stems with long, pointy buds and “perfect” rose blooms • each flowering stem typically terminates in a single shapely bloom; each stem can produce 5 to 6 flowers • stiffly upright and sparsely foliaged • new varieties introduced each year • compared to teas: hardier, but less blooms • compared to hybrid perpetuals: less hardy, but more everblooming • the single most popular class of garden rose of the 20th century • more high maintenance than many other rose classes being susceptible to a myriad of pest and disease problems • declining in popularity among gardeners and landscapers in favor of lower-maintenance "landscape" roses • must winter protect to prevent bud union from falling be low 32°F or it will be damaged or die • PERNETIANA: once a separate class of rose species, pernetiana roses are now classified with hybrid tea roses; however, pernetiana roses are popular due to their unusual range of colors which include lavender, copper and orange. FVTC Examples: April In Paris, Capt. Harry Stebbings, Falling In Love, Firefighter, Folklore, Gemini, Keepsake, Let Freedom Ring, Marijke Koopman, Marilyn Monroe, Moonstone, Rina Hugo, St. Patrick, Signature, Sunset Celebration, Sunstruck, Touch of Class, WW II Memorial Rose
rosa 'Topaz Jewel', a hybrid rugosa
rosa 'Peace', introduced by Francis Meilland at the end of World War II
rosa 'Folklore', FVTC-Hartling Rose Garden
LANDSCAPE/SHRUB ROSES • developed to fill the consumer desire for a garden rose that offers color, form and fragrance, but is also low maintenance and easy to care for Most landscape roses have the following characteristics: - Lower growing habit, usually under 60 cm (24 inches) - Repeat flowering - Disease and pest resistance - Grown on own rootstock, not grafted FVTC Examples: Bonica, the 'Carefree's, Daydream, Golden Eye, Golden Unicorn, the 'Knockout's, the 'Morden's, Raven
MINIATURE ROSES • characterized primarily by their small blossoms typically 1" dia., some smaller, some up to 2" dia. • repeat-flowering, blooms emulate classic high centered hybrid tea shapes; come in all hybrid tea colors • twiggy, low growing shrubs, 1-2' in height, sometimes procumbent • many are quite vigorous, durable, disease resistant, and well suited as garden plants • in cold climates can grow them in pots, then move the pots indoors for the winter, but need an annual period of cold dormancy to survive • most grow on their own rootstocks • a favorite of both gardeners and exhibitors FVTC Examples: Andie MacDowell, Bee's Knees, Brass Ring, Child's Play, Dancing Flame, Hot Tamale, Peppermint Patty, X-Rated
POLYANTHA ROSES • Literally "many-flowered" roses, from the Greek "poly" (many) and "anthos" (flower) • originally derived from crosses between two East Asian species (Rosa chinensis and R. multiflora) • some compact, others spreading in habit • flowers, small, 1" in clusters of 15-30 • prolific, everblooming, June to frost • colors of white, pink and red • little to no fragrance • dark glossy green foliage, heavily thorned • good resistance to disease and black spot • low-maintenance, disease-resistant, and winter hardy
shrub, 'Carefree Delight' FVTC-Hartling Rose Garden
rosa 'Peppermint Patty', miniature FVTC-Hartling Rose Garden
rosa 'Cecile Brunner', AKA: the Sweetheart Rose, polyantha
PLANTING ROSES 1-Composted manure, plus peat moss or leaf mold if the soil is heavy, is dug into the bottom of the hole. 2-Prior to planting any Rose, examine roots for dead and broken portions. Cut off cleanly to live white wood. Spread roots well over a mound of soil and sift soil among them. 3-Arrow points to one typical weak stem that should be pruned back to strong main cane. In general, only three or, at most four, good canes should be left at planting. 4-If main canes of thinned plant before planting are in good condition above point indicated by arching broken line, they may be only moderately trimmed. Otherwise cut back to point of line. 5-In the process of filling around roots with good fertile soil, make sure that swelling of "bud" or graft will be just below final level of soil after plant is firmed in place. 6-Roots must be put in very firm contact with surrounding soil. Hence when they are well covered, step into planting hole to pack soil. If job is done right, "bud" will be in correct position. 7-After tramping soil, fill rest of hole with water if ground is dry at planting time. When hole has drained, fill with loose, dry soil to final level. 8-Final step in planting is mounding up base of canes to depth of from 4 to 8 inches with clean soil, free from large lumps. If planting in spring, leave in place for at least ten days, then pull it away from canes gradually. In fall planting, it is left until the spring. 9-After ground is thoroughly warm and plant established (mid-to-late May), it is helpful to mulch surface with peat moss or similar porous material. This keeps down weeds, keeps roots cool and moist during heat. 10-In cutting Roses for the house, or after blooms have faded, leave at least two sets of five-part leaves for later bloom. The more foliage you leave on plant, the healthier it is likely to be, this year and after. 11-Some gardeners cut back plants at approximately this line after peak of June bloom. In general this gains nothing, may be harmful. However, straggling growth should be removed before winter winds and snows.
DEADHEADING ROSES The theory is that when you remove the bloom before the plant is able to form seed pods (rose hips), the plant will want to put out more blooms in its drive to reproduce. Most modern roses will rebloom about 6 weeks after you remove the old dead blooms. Some in as little as 4 weeks, and some will take up to 10 weeks to rebloom. The Traditional technique is to cut the cane down from the spent bloom to 1/4 inch above the first leaf cluster with 5 leaflets using hand pruners. Using this technique you can also prune further down the cane to the bud that is pointing in the direction you want the branch to grow. The plant will grow in the direction that the bud is facing. The current advice from experimental gardens in the RNRS (Royal National Rose Society) headquarters at St. Albans is to nip off the dead flower just at the neck. This Conservative technique will promote immediate growth and a quicker return to flowering. All blooms were snapped off at the peduncle when flowering was complete, leaving the maximum amount of foliage remaining on the plant. This foliage was very important for maximum photosynthesis to take place. It was noted that the bushes that received "flower only" deadheading produced more basal breaks earlier than the bushes that received the five leaflet deadheading and removal of blind growth. This technique results in more branching. Virtually every flower will result in a new branch, and those new branches will all terminate with new flowers. The tradeoff is that you will have more blooms, but slightly smaller blooms. Those who want to competetively exhibit their blooms should not use this second method. Conservation of all foliage is extremely important, and includes the leaves on blind shoots and twiggy growth. All make significant contributions through photosynthesis and should be retained unless they interfere with growth of healthy new canes. Modern Roses, Exhibition and Deadheading - the further down the stem you cut, the larger the bloom stem and subsequent buds will become, and hence, the longer it will take for the rose to rebloom. - the subsequent bloom stem will be slightly smaller than the stem you have just removed. And deciding how far down the stem to make that cut is best determined by using good judgment.
- growing a Hybrid Tea and religiously disbud, then deadheading further down the stem should be tempered with how large you expect the second bloom to become and how soon you want the rose to recycle. In general, you should stop deadheading about 6 weeks before the killing frosts occur in your area. If you are in an area without a true winter you might want to stop about 6 weeks before you introduce some sort of artificial dormancy, whether that is by defoliating or hard pruning of the plants.
ROSE PRUNING Rose pruning, sometimes regarded as a horticultural art form, is largely dependent on the type of rose to be pruned, the reason for pruning, and the time of year it is at the time of the desired pruning. OLD GARDEN ROSES Most Old Garden Roses of strict European heritage (albas, damasks, gallicas, etc.) are shrubs that bloom once yearly, in late spring or early summer, on two-year-old (or older) canes. As such, their pruning requirements are quite minimal, and are overall similar to any other analogous shrub, such as lilac or forsythia. Generally, only old, spindly canes should be pruned away, to make room for new canes. One year old canes should never be pruned because doing so will remove next year's flower buds. The shrubs can also be pruned back lightly, immediately after the blooms fade, to reduce the overall height or width of the plant. In general, pruning requirements for OGRs are much less laborious and regimented than for Modern hybrids. Alba Prune after blooms are all finished. To encourage new growth shorten old branches by about ¼ of their length and shorten any long or lanky canes by 1/3. Bourbon Most varieties require only light pruning. After the first flush of blooms prune the plant to maintain or improve the shape. For climbing varieties see suggestions for climbers & ramblers. Centifolia Prune after blooms are all finished. Shorten new canes to about ½ their length and shorten any long or lanky canes by 1/3. China Prune hard to about 6” in early spring to encourage new growth leaving only the most vigorous canes. In warmer climates a light pruning to shape the plant will suffice. Damasks Once blooming – Prune after the blooms are finished. Remove some old wood to encourage fresh growth and prune to shape. Repeat blooming – Prune in early spring. Select the strongest most vigorous growth and prune it to about 1/3 of its length. Remove all dead, damaged, diseased, broken, weak, or spindly growth. Gallicas Prune after the blooms are finished. Remove some old wood to encourage fresh growth and prune to shape. The removal of side shoots and the shortening of canes can encourage some Gallicas to “stiffen up” as they grow older and not be so lax.
Hybrid Perpetual In our area it is advisable to prune modern roses in the spring. Remove all the canes except the largest and healthiest. Cut them back to 3 or 4 good buds, or about 4-6”. Sometimes after a mild winter the canes of these cultivars may be green most of their length. It is still advisable to prune them back to maintain a nicely shaped plant. Hybrid Perpetuals, if not pruned yearly quickly become lanky and bloom production is reduced. Moss Roses Once blooming varieties – Prune after spring bloom is finished. Shorted long new growth by ½, remove spindly new growth. Repeat blooming varieties – Prune in early spring. Shorten old growth by about ½ and thin out the branches if there are a lot of them. Noisette Noisette grow late in the season so there is likely to be quite a bid of dead wood to remove. Cut back the entire plant by about ¼ and remove spindly and twiggy growth. Portlands Prune in early spring. Select the strongest most vigorous growth and prune it to about 1/3 of its length. Remove all dead, damaged, diseased, broken, weak, or spindly growth. Rugosas Rugosas don’t require much pruning except to shape the plant or removal of suspect canes. Species and other hardy antiques Prune after the spring bloom season has passed. Prune these only to maintain a size or shape and to encourage new growth. The more branches on these plants the more the bloom they will produce. MODERN GARDEN ROSES Modern hybrids, including the hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, modern miniatures, and English roses, have a complex genetic background that almost always includes China roses (R. chinensis). China roses were evergrowing, everblooming roses from humid subtropical regions that bloomed constantly on any new vegetative growth produced during the growing season. Their modern hybrid descendants exhibit similar habits; unlike Old European Roses, modern hybrids bloom continuously (until stopped by frost) on any new canes produced during the growing season. They therefore require pruning away of any spent flowering stem in order to divert the plant's energy into producing new growth and hence new flowers. Additionally, Modern Hybrids planted in cold winter climates will almost universally require a "hard" annual pruning (reducing all canes to 8"–12" in height) in early spring. Again, because of their complex China rose background, modern hybrids are typically not as cold hardy as European OGRs, and low winter temperatures often desiccate or kill exposed
canes. In spring, if left unpruned, these damaged canes will often die back all the way to the shrub's root zone, resulting in a weakened, disfigured plant. The annual "hard" pruning of hybrid teas, floribundas, etc. should generally be done in early spring; most gardeners coincide this pruning with the blooming of forsythia shrubs. Canes should be cut about 1/2" above a vegetative bud (identifiable as a point on a cane where a leaf once grew). Climbers Climbers should not be pruned in their first or second year in the garden aside from removal of dead, damaged, diseased, broken, weak, or spindly growth. You must begin training the 3 main canes as soon as they reach up to the support structure. Once the growth has reached the structure, train the branches horizontally to encourage the growth of bloom producing side shoots. After the second season one should remove canes that are crossing other main canes and downward growing side shoots. It is also advisable to cut back the length of main canes by about ¼ to encourage new flower producing growth. As the rose grows and gets taller it may become difficult to prune so thoroughly. However, if you can find a way to do it your efforts will be rewarded. Care must be taken when pruning Climbing sports of bush varieties so as not to cause the variety to revert back to bush form. Ramblers Ramblers are more vigorous growing than climbers and therefore require a different approach. Prune non-recurrent ramblers in summer after they have bloomed. For the first couple of seasons prune all side shoots from the main branches to encourage vigour. These canes should be trained horizontally (as with climbers) to encourage bloom producing side shoots. After the first couple years and the plant is established remove some of the old growth leaving the most vigorous canes. Train some of the new, fresh growth to fill in the gaps left by removal of the old wood. As ramblers produce an abundance of new shoots from the union it is suggested that one remove the majority of those as they are produced to ensure that the nutrients go to producing growth and bloom where it is most desired. Floribunda, Grandiflora, Hybrid Teas, Miniature, and Polyantha In our area it is advisable to prune modern roses in the spring. Remove all the canes except the largest and healthiest. Cut them back to 3 or 4 good buds, or about 4-6”. Sometimes after a mild winter the canes of these cultivars may be green most of their length. It is still advisable to prune them back to maintain a nicely shaped plant. Shrubs and English Roses Prune shrubs in early spring. Remove weak growth and shorten long canes by about ½. Hybrid Musks As Hybrid Musks bloom on new and old wood you can prune liberally in early spring to encourage new growth. Remove twiggy growth and very old canes and shorten the length of all the canes by 1/3.
Strong-growing Hybrid Tea. Most of first year's growth (black) from base.
Same bush after light pruning (dotted lines) for many flowers. Stubs removed.
Moderate pruning results in somewhat larger, but generally fewer, blossoms.
For real exhibition-size blooms, in reduced numbers, prune the bush severely.
For both Old Garden Roses and Modern Hybrids, any weak, damaged or diseased growth should be pruned away completely, regardless of the time of year. Any pruning of any rose should also be done so that the cut is made at a forty five degree angle above a vegetative bud. This helps the pruned stem callus over more quickly, and also mitigates moisture buildup over the cut, which can lead to disease problems. For all general rose pruning (including cutting flowers for arrangements), sharp hand-held, by-pass pruners should be used to cut any growth 1/2" or less in diameter. For canes of a thickness greater than 1/2", pole loppers or a small handsaw are generally more effective; pruners may be damaged or broken in such instances.