reportage
eauty cannot be rushed A couple of decades ago, there were not many jewelry stores. There were no jewelry chains, and each jeweler offered unique designs. Today, more stores are outdoing each other in offers that do not differ much from each other. This is one of the reasons why more and more people appreciate what is unique and handcrafted. Handmade jewelry is a guarantee of personalization, and Macedonian filigree is an excellent example of what is one of its kind. I asked my mentor and friend, jewelry maker, and filigree artist Jakov Gulija what the secrets behind creating stunning Macedonian jewelry are.
8 - VOICES
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he best-known jewel of Macedonia is definitely lake Ohrid, but unfortunately, it is not a piece of jewelry that one can take home. Filigree, on the other hand, is. Macedonian filigree is the country’s trademark and art with a long tradition. Bitola, Ohrid, Struga, and Skopje are the cities where filigree is still doing well. In Skopje, while walking through the Stara Čaršija, a few streets are actually just jewelry stores. On the display window of the stores, you can see kilograms of silver and gold. You can find whatever you want, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, brooches, or accessories for hair. The vast majority of this jewelry is made with the filigree technique. The word filigree derives from the Latin words “filum” (thread) and “granum” (grain). The elements made in this technique are tiny and intricately curled, and the delicate wires that are artistically formed often give an impression of being made with lace. The ancient practice of filigree evolved as artisans passed it from generation
to generation, but as ages ago, the process requires patience, creativity, and precision. Jakov Gulija (32) is the third generation of jewelry makers and filigree artists in his family. Everything started from his grandfather, then his uncles learned the craft and passed it to Jakov and his cousin. Also, Jakov’s father was working with jewelry. Without a doubt, craftsmanship and talent run in their blood. When asked who his master is, Jakov says without hesitation that Josip, his uncle. “I can surely say that my uncle is one of the best in the business. Many people can confirm that. I learned from him. I am still learning and still can’t catch up with him.” adds Jakov. Every jewelry maker can point out the “thing” that first called him to the art. In Jakov’s case, it was his family. Jakov was 22 when he started to create jewelry, but even as a kid, he always heard that it is a family business, so at some point, no matter how old he is, it would be great if he could continue the tradition. For a long time, he hesitated, but then one day he thought:
