spe cial s ilmo
Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2016
HALL 5 - BOOTH E 040
Fashion Trends Industry New Products Marketing & Economy VEDERE International September 2016 Publishing Director: Isabella Morpurgo
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EDITORIAL FAIRS 4
Silmo... a unique experience
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October in Dubai Vision-X
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IOFT in Tokyo 29th edition
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Hong Kong Optical Fair 2016
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MIDO MILAN EYEWEAR SHOW 2017
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The future begins at OPTI
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trends
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POINT OF VIEW
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NEWS
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FAREWELL
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2016
s pe c i al s i l mo
Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
summary
EDITORIAL
FIGHTING COUNTERFEIT 86% of businesses say that counterfeiting influence online sales of original products A survey recently carried out by MarkMonitor® revealed the amazing impact that online counterfeiting is having on sales of the original brands. As stated by Jerome Sicard, Regional Manager for Southern Europe of MarkMonitor, more than a third of those interviewed (39%) said that in reality a significant 11-50% of the counterfeits has replaced the sales of their branded products. When they were asked to what extent they thought that sales of counterfeit products have replaced those of the original goods only 14% of participants responded that they had had no impact. Counterfeit sales represent seven percent of all global trade. The damage these sales do to rightful brand owners goes well beyond revenues and profits: Numerous reports have suggested that counterfeit and piracy trade supports terrorism, organized crime and other threats to both national security and human rights. The Internet’s rapid growth — along with its instant global reach and anonymity — has significantly escalated the situation. An entire online supply chain, parallel to legitimate distribution channels, has flourished around counterfeit goods. Online B2B marketplaces, in addition to e-commerce sites — many promoted via social media and search engines — commonly traffic in counterfeit goods. Fake products acquired on wholesale sites are sold across multiple digital channels, or at flea markets and shops in the physical world. The eyewear industry is among the most affected by this problem and the companies have to the importance of protecting their reputation through the entire Internet landscape. Damage to reputation can have a strong long-term impact on consumer confidence, which in itself can lead to a greater loss in sales.
Isabella Morpurgo Publisher VEDERE International isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
FAIRS
Silmo...
a unique experience Silmo 2016 numbers:
80,000 m2 exhibition area
900
160
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1,350
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
(75% from abroad)
FAIRS
SILMO - the international optics and eyewear trade fair in Paris this year takes place from 23 to 26 September 2016 at the exhibition Center Paris Nord Villepinte (Paris) and welcomes the professionals of the optics & eyewear sector with 11 sectors that make up this outstanding industry: • AB FAB LAB (Absolutely Fabulous Laboratory) - brings together the latest technological innovations, processes and materials, all dedicated to the manufacture of lenses and frames. Surfacing, coloring, components, materials, cutting and 3D printing are all showcased in this truly “universal exhibition” of the industry’s finest manufacturing techniques, which are a source of added value.
• LENSES: assembles the work of the world’s finest lens manufacturers who present their latest technological innovations with a comprehensive product range including all types of lenses: sport, progressive, ophthalmic, solar, mineral, organic and connected. • POS EQUIPMENT: offers opticians all the tools and resources they need to plan their store layout: furniture, display stands, store signs, merchandising advice, safety, etc. • LOW VISION: offers opticians and other professionals the opportunity to improve their knowledge of this topic, along with practical and useful information to help tackle one of today’s major health problems.
• LUXURY: brings together jewellers, luxury brands and specialist makers of exclusive frames; showcased within a dedicated display area, these companies utilise the finest materials to produce truly exceptional eyewear. • THE VILLAGE: continues to position itself strategically at the intersection of trends and designers. This is an area where design and the most innovative ideas jockey for position to reveal resolutely stylish and exclusive collections with a contemporary appeal... • FRAMES: brings together a comprehensive overview of optical glasses and sunglasses brands. These include traditional eyewear manufactures showcasing their much sought-after and prized expertise, alongside fashion brands and ready-to-wear collections unveiling their exclusive universe reminiscent of the SILMO Fashion Style trends area. • OPTICIAN’S EQUIPMENT: is a must-visit area for professionals wishing to keep abreast of major developments in terms of tools, cutting and measuring instruments, not to mention optometry equipment. • CONNECTED OPTICIANS: introduces partner networks for opticians - central purchasing bodies, chains, management centres, etc. - together with professionals working in the digital domain offering IT and connectivity solutions, websites, social media networks, etc.
SILMO is also an Innovation prize with SILMO d’Or, a TV channel (SILMO TV), a training organization with SILMO Academy scientific symposium – that this year deals with the theme of “reading”, a connected community, a fashion and trends E-mag with Trends by SILMO.
• SPORT: shines the spotlight on the specific characteristics of dedicated sports glasses and sunglasses, a new exhibition area intended to promote active sports brands and sportswear more effectively.
Silmo Pop-up: two presentation spaces for new products under two iconic themes: The Selectionist and The Collectionist) – will help to understand the markets and trends while the Experience Store will unveil all the digital solutions that are available and adapted to the world of optics.
• CONTACT LENSE: reveals solutions and innovations in the field of contact lenses that will create footfall for retail outlets and grow revenue.
Visitors will be also able to sample mobile cuisine (food trucks are stationed outside between halls 5 et 6) and Laurent Perrier’s rare vintages at the Champagne Bar.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
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FAIRS
October in Dubai
Vision-X
Vision-X 2016 is the MENA region’s only optical event Attracting over 4,000 optometrists, ophthalmologists and retail buyers, the well-timed October Vision- X show in Dubai – 25/27 October, delivers independent outlets and the major chains keen to purchase the latest eyewear trends, the most cutting-edge ophthalmic technology and opportunity to earn valuable CPD accreditation at the DHA recognized conference. The MENA population is predicted to grow by 26% by 2030 and, like everywhere else, the population is set to continually age over the next 35 years. Saudi Arabia will go from 5% of 60+ to 21% in 2050 while the UAE will grow from 2% to 24%! (Source: World Population Prospects – UN – 2015 Revision)
And that’s big money in optometry terms. In the aged populations of Europe and Japan, expensive progressive lenses grew by 7% in 2015 alone, whilst photochromic and mono-focal lenses grew by 5% respectively (Source: GfK POS Tracker Dec 2015 Report). Plus, there is under-representation in the number of opticians in the region, signifying big opportunities for manufacturers and distributors. Important to know that there is a huge demand for the world’s leading brands in the Middle East, with 6% growth in frames retailing at >220 US$ and 8% in the 160 – 219 US$ category, but there is also 9% growth in the 80 – 95 US$ frames and a further 6% in 0 – 80 US$. These are the highlights of the event: STYLE ATELIER is a dedicated & focused area for leading fashion frames and the most cutting-edge global eyewear brands. Accredited Professional Conference: a must attend for eyecare professionals to maintain their technical expertise. The conference provides professional training, debate and hands-on skills from leading regional and international practitioners. Contact lens fittings and prescription are on the rise in the region and are a hot topic of this year’s DHA accredited conference programme at Vision-X. Vision-X announced its partnership with IACLE – the International Association of Contact Lens Educators, headlining the events technical conference, Prof. Shezhad Naroo will keynote on Fitting Toric Lenses – an important area for growth in the region. FUTURE IN FOCUS - A forum for business owners and managers to improve their operations, the Future in Focus theatre brings the latest in eyewear trends, tech, customer care & business metrics for retail profits from global experts. Vision-X VP Awards held in partnership with VisionPlus. The Awards are judged by retailers & eyecare practitioners and winners will be announced on 25-Oct.
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You’re unique. Your Yuniku. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a face is worth millions. Meet Yuniku: the revolutionary innovation in 3D tailored eyewear. Fits any lifestyle, any look and any visual need. Discover Yuniku at the Hoya stand. Hall 6. Nr J74.
FAIRS
IOFT in Tokyo 29 edition th
Reed Exhibitions Japan and Fukui Optical Association will be holding the 29th INTERNATIONAL OPTICAL FAIR TOKYO - IOFT 2016 - from 3rd to 5th of October, 2016 at Tokyo Big Sight, Japan. The Japanese show is expanding its size by 25% from the previous edition also because one third of the previous exhibitors increased their booth size. The exhibition halls are expected to be filled with 340 Exhibitors (50 Exhibitors more than 2015) and 15,000 buyers and to see an increasing number of international brands involved. Furthermore, a large number of firms decided to come back to exhibit at IOFT 2016 including Theo Bvba (Belgium), Traction Productions (France), P.Hoet (Belgium), Kamuro Optical Co., Ltd. (Japan), Micedraw Tokyo (Japan), Into-Korea (Korea), Ideaport (Japan), Apollocreate (Japan). Special Exhibit Zones: tide -The IOFT International Designers SUNGLASSES COLLECTION BOUTIQUE LUXURY COLLECTION Contact Lenses Zone EYEWEAR ACCESSORIES ZONE IT SOLUTION ZONE FUKUI ZONE “tide” is a special exhibiting area created inside IOFT, which is exclusively offered to stylish and unique international eyewear designers.
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EYEWEAR OF THE YEAR (EOY)2017 EOY takes place annually inside International Optical Fair Tokyo (IOFT). It selects and honors the best new design eyewear to be introduced in this fall and winter. It consists of several categories, and from each category, three winning products and a Grand Prix product will be announced. Screening and selection will be conducted by the EOY Award Committee in early September.
FAIRS
Hong Kong Optical Fair 2016 The SHOWCASE of GLOBAL BRANDS and LOCAL DESIGNS Debut of Unique Local Designs To explore new optical trends in the Hong Kong community, the Hong Kong Eyewear Design Competition encourages local creativity and innovation, adding new insights to the spectacles market every year. With the theme of “uniqueness” this year, the competition has received more than 100 quality entries. Designs of the finalists will be on display during the fair period.
Gathering prestigious global brands, the HKTDC Hong Kong Optical Fair 2016 will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from 9-11 November 2016. Entering its 24th edition, the number of exhibitors has increased to a record high of over 760 coming from around 25 countries and regions. Visitors can also enjoy the hktdc.com Free Sourcing Service onsite, which allows them to acquire detailed exhibitors’, and off-site suppliers’ information instantly. The Brand Name Gallery has always been the highlight of the fair. This year, the Gallery will remain at Grand Hall, 3/F of HKCEC, in which over 200 well-known brands will join together to demonstrate product creativity and originality. A number of Eyewear Parades will also be held to show the different stylish outlooks of eyewear.
Market Insights Sharing by Industry Professionals With the rapidly evolving optical market, gaining the latest market insights is of critical importance to business success. A series of activities are therefore arranged during the fair period to cater to business needs. Highlighted programmes such as The 14th Hong Kong Optometric Conference will welcome experts from Australia, Canada, Hong Kong and the United States to share their insights on Advancement in Ophthalmic Treatments.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
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MIDO
Milano Eyewear Show February 25, 26, 27 | 2017
mido.com mido.com
FAIRS
MIDO MILAN EYEWEAR SHOW 2017 #livethewonder MIDO is revving up its engines getting ready to amaze yet again in Milan from February 25 through 27, 2017, after the record last year edition, with over 1200 exhibitors and 52,000 professional operators from all over the world. The new campaign The new face of MIDO will be lit up by Italian excellence. With 3 new subjects - 4 in a few weeks from now - the 2017 campaign encompasses #livethewonder, a combination of art, architecture, tradition and modernity just like Made in Italy. For edition 47, the MIDO communication focuses on “great beauty” that is all Italian. Evoking De Chirico, spatial geometries and light are made even more precious by elements that symbolize Italian design. In the highly evocative images of Italian art and architecture, superb eyewear stars alongside the face of Lidia Comini, the young Italian model, already known at international level.
MIDO: a more social show Last year MIDO doubled, with 100% more social media contents and interactions during the show, over 10,000 posts on Instagram and Twitter, and 2000 new fans on Facebook. The Instagram profile alone has grown tenfold, from 400 followers at end February 2016 to 4,400 as of today. Theme areas The theme areas of the last edition have been reconfirmed; Fashion District, where a large and very dynamic piazza hosts the best players in the world and the small- and medium-sized companies that are inspired by the world of fashion; Design Lab, the unquestionable realm of the most visionary creatives; Lab Academy reserved for young start-ups with MORE! the absolutely new addition in 2016; Lenses, for the leaders of the lens sector; Tech, the world’s largest exhibition area dedicated to machinery, raw materials and components; and the FAiR East Pavilion, the exclusive area dedicated to the most important companies in Asia. There will also be the prestigious and coveted BESTORE and BESTAND AWARDS for originality, innovation and creativity. Visitor registration will open on October 1, 2016.
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G028 | hall. 6
FAIRS
The future begins at
OPTI
10 YEARS OF OPTI – 10 YEARS OF INNOVATION On January 11th 2008, the new era of opti began with GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH as the organiser of the trade show. For the 10th anniversary of the event in 2017, it is time to look at the products which made their debut and had their breakthrough in Munich. The next trade show will be the anniversary edition and will take place from Saturday 28th to Monday 30th of January 2017. This opti biography will take a look at the “Stars & Trends”. 205,194 trade visitors and 4,212 exhibitors later, it is time to look at the ground-breaking products of the last 10 years. The range stretches from the classic and the curious to creative bestsellers. Rolf Spectacles should not be missed out of the 10year gallery of trends in the Frames Area. In 2009, they displayed the prototypes of their wooden glasses in the opti box and first stepped into the limelight of the world of optometry. Likewise, the Finnish company Kraa Kraa used opti 2015 to celebrate their cork glasses being ready to go into production. 2010 was all about vintage frames. Meanwhile, optometrists Gerald Lasnik and his son Martin can celebrate several awards, such as the “red dot design award” for their “seeoo” glasses. The two masters of optometry
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used opti to present their new interpretation of the pince-nez to the world for the first time. As for lenses, in 2016 Carl Zeiss Vision GmbH ushered in a new dimension of lens technology with the new “DriveSafe” glasses lenses developed for poor visibility when driving. In 2013, Ophthalmica Brillengläser GmbH & Co. KG showed another innovation not seen at any trade show previously: customised lenses for golfers and fishermen. In 2011, new underwater vision was made possible in Munich with the individually vitrifiable swimming goggles “shoptic Ocean” by Breitfeld & Schliekert GmbH. opti is also the perfect stage for the launch of contact lenses. The company CooperVision GmbH introduced their new daily contact lenses to the market in 2008. Visitors can see companies that are ahead of their time in the Technology Area. At opti 2014 they met the technology of the future for the first time: a 3D printer and the new generation of glasses when the start-up company FrameLApp debuted their idea to print glasses made to order. Equally efficient with resources is the “Greenday” start-up for shop fittings. In January 2012, their new shop fitting concept was the topic of many conversations.
ULTRA POLARIZED THE ULTIMATE VISION & PROTECTION
DUTZ EYEWEAR
From stylish simplicity to luxurious snakeskin
mod DZ 2167
Dutz Eyewear, founded in 2005 in Oss, The Netherlands, has a philosophy: “Buying a frame should be fun”, so the Dutz collections bridge the gap between standard and fashionable frames by adding distinctive, colourful details. For the 2016-2017 fall/winter collection the Dutz designers follow the inspirational style guides of the leading fashion brands. This season Pantone fashion colors are dominated by blue and red with also the return of neutral colors such as grey and taupe, earthy tones and gold, as well as bright colors such as mustard yellow and bold purple. Stripes are very popular whatever the fashion season. Dutz created a graphic look with linear patterns in persuasive color combinations.
Animal prints are still hot. The black and white zebra print is a real eye-catcher and Dutz, in model DZ605, combined this print with bright basic colors, such as red, blue, pink and turquoise. The combination of special materials and bold animal prints gives any pair of glasses a unique boost. Model DZ610 has a particularly luxurious structure and a pattern inspired by snakeskin. Recent catwalks showed opulent art and floral patterns. The Exotic Vision series interpret this in a seductive, feminine manner as in the acetate of model DZ2167. Dutz model DZ619 is an elegant and stylish frame, inspired by a leather structure obtained by using hammered processing techniques. Its slim design and classic colors give the model a soft, feminine touch.
mod DZ 610
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INVU Ladies Fashion
With a touch of glamour
“A true masterpiece”, says Beat Christ, Head of Design for Swiss Eyewear Group. The bold combination of shiny, glamorous decorative features with understated mat elements, brought together in a classic, soft cat eye design makes these sunglasses a “must have” for the 2016/2017 sunglass season. The new INVU women’s fashion model B2716 comes in up-to-date and easy to wear colors, such as contemporary black, rich tortoise and in-vogue bordeaux. Equipped with the high performance ultra polarized lens by Swiss Eyewear Group and retailed at Euro 69, these glamorous sunglasses offer exceptional value for money for consumers around the globe.
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Marvelous Maple! The maple leaf is the muse of Spectacle Eyeworks
Spectacle Eyeworks Inc., the Canadian design house, enhances their exclusive and expansive Spectacle Eyeworks house collection with four new stainless steel styles. Inspired by the profound beauty of nature, the maple leaf is the muse for these new designs. The warm autumn-esque color palette of each frame represents the maple leaf’s different stages of life. Featured on four of the hues is a striking yet subtle maple leaf pattern highlighting the intricacies of the leaf’s delicate framework. Mehran Baghaie, Operations Director and Chief Designer at Spectacle Eyeworks says, “I wanted to make the colors as reminiscent as possible to really give the sensation of the flow of change in the life cycle of the maple leaf.” He did that and more. Flying with creativity, Joryne, an ultra-feminine vintage concept cat-eye style features a design element on its frontal shape evoking the wings of a bird in flight, further tying in the wonders of nature. Made in Germany, each new addition is available in seven color choices including four with the maple leaf pattern and even a rustic stone finish option. All frames include a signature case, point-of-purchase display, and two-year warranty.
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The EYEVOLUTION of 3D One size never fits all, especially when it comes to eyewear. There are too many variables. This is driving the demand for custom-made eyewear. However, regular frames and lenses can be customised only to a certain degree. The frame and fitting are a given, and lenses have to be adjusted to suit them – with potentially adverse effects on vision.
To address this problem, Hoya, a global leader in lenses and optical products, has developed Yuniku, 3D tailored eyewear designed entirely around the vision of the wearer. Where regular individualised lenses take the frame-fitting parameters as a starting point – and are limited by them – Yuniku considers the optimal parameters for the wearer’s personal visual situation and 3D prints the frame around them.
The range features an extensive selection of frame designs, colours and finishes, complemented by a choice of a premium single vision, progressive and indoor option. “Yuniku is an exciting step forward in custom eyewear,” says Jon Warrick, Vice President Global Marketing, Hoya Vision Care. “For the first time, customers can benefit from the ultimate in optical precision, without compromising on style or fit.” Félix S. España, Global New Media Manager, Hoya Vision Care, adds: “The Yuniku process is fully integrated, for seamless customisation, production and delivery. The customer is involved throughout, ensuring complete satisfaction with the final result.”
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INVU KIDS
A coloured Back to School!
INVU, brand of Swiss Eyewear, offers the most extensive collection of eyewear for children on the market, more than 100 models for different age groups: 1-3 years, 4-7 years, 8-11 and 12-15 years. Children are now a very important market segment, that is why it is crucial for INVU to study the collections that reflect the needs of the children but also of their parents. All INVU KIDS models feature innovative, super light and resistant treatments. These are sophisticated, fashionable and trendy glasses, with great attention to detail and above all to the convenience of the youngest.
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Craftsmanship and luxury by Omas Design Eyes set in a precious golden frame. Sparkling reflections of light radiate from the Swarovski crystals to enhance the vision. The lines are soft, enveloping, precious. With Omas Design eyewear luxury becomes original, the personality of every face acquires a new light. The combinations of gems placed in the frame are carefully chosen: the colour, size, and brightness of each piece are balanced to perfection, forming an exclusive pair of jewel glasses. The gifted hands of the Omas craftsmen, carrying out the whole production process strictly within the factory departments of Segusino (TV), have shaped and formed the metal, giving every single pair of glasses its own uniqueness. “The new collection is a tribute to detail, - says the Omas designer Andrea Furlan - because it is the detail which is the quality of life.” The same detail of the authentic Veneto craftsmanship, that blends together in the style beyond time of the Jewel Glasses by Omas Design.
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Fedon Eyewear Collection n. 3
Cosmopolitan Allure and traditional Craftsmanship The third FEDON Eyewear collection firmly marks the passage of an almost century-old artisan history: skilful works, result of the company’s tradition, this collection unifies experience and culture of the best Italian craftsmanship. Beauty and functionality applied to objects with timeless shapes, refined accessories with a cosmopolitan allure, the models of the new collection, sun and sight, men, women and unisex, have personality and style, thanks to the processing of metal, to refined color and material combinations, to leather details and to harmonious and actual lines. The FEDON glasses, expression of the original Made in Italy, are housed in precious cases, which give voice to the brand craftsmanship, being the leading manufacturer of cases. Each FEDON Eyewear collection stands out for class and refinement, continuous innovation and advanced processing methods.
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EPOS Ever since the thirties, vintage frames from Epos have traced the development of Italian style in an original way The Italian brand Epos is a display of continuity between the past and present, cleverly blending legends, refined lines with great aesthetic impact, bringing together valuable panels and metal inlays. The design of each pair of glasses was created to incorporate the spirit of time, drawing upon its own roots. The company bases its inspiration for all new models on the style created in the Thirties. This way, modern frames incorporate in their shapes and colours the passage of time from the early twentieth century to the present day. There are four main collections, each of them is the result of the group’s experience and creativity. Epos Classic takes inspiration from the elegance of the last century. Chorus Line is a colourful contemporary line made of TR90, an innovative, flexible material which is both lightweight and unbreakable. Epic Wood, refined and original, is a collection focused on design and made from acetate with a hand-brushed wood effect. Last but not least, Leggenda, the elegant collection with two new interesting models, Orco and Thor.
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trends
ART & COLORS Paloma League by Retrosuperfuture - the concept of purity and simplicity of water was applied to a rounded silhouette through a transparent crystal acetate inlayed with pieces of earthly Havana acetate.
The Bellaria is a flattering feminine frame by Red Rose. Cut from a single block of stainless steel, this pair is equipped with an innovative screwless hinge.
New entry in the Zoobug London children collection: CLUBMASTER A, for 4-12 years with polarised silver mirrored lenses.
Pugnale&Nyleve, in the continuous game of contamination between past and present, presents Mirada, a collection with an innovative character.
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trends
ART & COLORS Catuma eyeglasses, “Intexture” model, round steel core and trompe -l’oeil given by a border in wood veneer that cuts the lens at the bottom. The temples are decorated with water enamels and terminals are in fully adjustable acetate with marble effect.
The charm of the Far East with precious and very exclusive details for the Coco Song eyewear line. In the Lost Star model a dragon, symbol of power par excellence, sinuously poses on the temples.
2016 marks the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare death and the new Cutler & Gross collection draws inspiration from his most memorable characters, as in model Hamlet 1234.
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trends
Dring by Boz Eyewear. A technique of specific veneer has been used for the face allowing «to sculpture» this cellulose acetate frame completely realized in Juraa
Emilio Pucci Eyewear – mod EP0059 - Exclusive and innovative re-elaborated shape characterized by the presence of two strong colours and the silhouette of lens. Elaborated aviator mask shape with a refined combination of acetate and metal inserts.
ART & COLORS Acetate release BIZ9 joins the Biz collection of OKO by OKO Paris.
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N 2017 O I T N E T T A e kdays: Changed
we
– MONDAY SATURDAY
The ultimate optical trade show is back—exciting, original and sensational. And, for one time only, opti 2017 will start on a Saturday: experience the major industry event opti, with all its variety of trends and technologies, innovations and ideas, information and inspiration!
SATURDAY – MONDAY
28. – 30. 01.2 017 www.opti.de
trends
CHarm & CHIC Gold & Wood has launched the Born Essentials sunglasses. Each pair of glasses goes through nearly 30 production steps using natural, sustainable and precious materials, making every piece unique.
The collection Club of Jean-François Rey Au Masculin adds new retro forms including natural leather selected among the best Italian tanneries. It surprises for the originality and the elegance of the models with an innovative and very creative approach in the use of leather.
The round and unisex SAVILLE frame of Leisure Society takes its name from William Saville-Kent, a British marine biologist whose discoveries are responsible for the modern-day technique used for cultivating spherical pearls.
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trends
CHarm & CHIC The African colors of tribes come alive in reflective materials of Collection” of cases Mod Desert 2.
the the the by
Saharan metallic “Mirage Astucci.
“The girl with the golden eyes staring up at the sky, dancing in the sea. Sun is shining and so is she. Call my name, I’m Carlina”. The most famous Chloé sunglasses in 18 carat gold for a special limited edition with only 600 units available worldwide.
Gold & Chic, so Bocca! By Face à Face
NOMI, a cat eye zyl style from the Vera Wang collection of Kenmark featuring Swarovski crystals on front corners.
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trends
Roberto Cavalli Eyewear - Heritage met modernity and essentiality. Acetate cateye shape RC5021 delicately created thanks to a multilayer concept.
Prestige 1750 – one of the new creations of Vuillet Vega
The Sophia Loren Beau Rivage 77 of Zyloware is a full rim, metal frame in a timeless modified oval shape.
CHarm & CHIC VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
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trends
CONTEMPORARY
By combining subtlety and details, the new CORIUM models of the Clément Gouverneur collection allow the gold and platinum to shine through the red, black, marine blue, green forest or purple perforated leather.
Menrad Eyewear - Mod. 11072 Extravagant style for her: women´s frame with an easy butterfly silhouette in the latest shades of brown.
Rounded shapes and unisex designs, as in model Saint Martin BF769, for the Blackfin Autumn/Winter 16-17 collection. All Blackfin frames are made of titanium and beta-titanium with Swordfish temple tips.
ME612S by Marni. A sophisticated play of shapes and overlays creates chromatic combinations, in which the acetate mask transparencies contrast with the frame with soft and rounded profiles.
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trends
DQ5210 of the Dsquared2 Eyewear Collection has a futuristic attitude with fine metal temples and a high-impact double bridge.
A bold personality, exquisite design and contemporary allure describe the new EZ0069 style of Ermenegildo Zegna Eyewear. The front is defined by a round thick nylon monoblock lens and a double metal bridge.
Robert Rüdger collection by Area98 –RR024 all-wood style has a panto shape and keyhole bridge and a slightly elongated rim top.
Hoet Couture - Mounted diamonds, a unique embroidery in gold or platinum thread, or 18-karat gold inlay makes every frame even more refined. The combination of hightech and the artisanship of the jeweller turns the frame itself into a jewel.
CONTEMPORARY VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
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POINT OF VIEW
Optica Halperin versus
Luxottica
The five-year dispute is over The long dispute between Luxottica and Optica Halperin in Israel arrived to an end. The Tel Aviv District Court have charged Luxottica Italy and Luxottica Israel to pay Optica Halperin, led by Jacob Halperin, a sum of over 7 million NIS, for damages incurred to Optica Halperin in respect of the profits lost in 2011. The Judge accepted the majority of Optica Halperin’s demands in this lawsuit and decided that the Luxottica Company had violated the exclusivity agreement signed with Optica Halperin.
Mr Jacob Halperin
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POINT OF VIEW
VEDERE interviewed Mr Halperin for more details of the whole affair: · How did the cooperation between your company and Luxottica start? The business between both our Companies began as all supplier-customer cooperation’s begin. Both our Companies worked together very well for a while until something went wrong with our combined business and we could no longer work together as we have done till then. · What and why something went wrong? Some of the Luxottica management decided to act not according to the agreements signed with members of the management at Luxottica who no longer worked there, and to change the terms agreed, and this was arbitrarily done, and was very unreasonable. · The decision of the Count regarding this law dispute has been, for sure, a mile stone in the eyewear sector. How did the Israelian optical market react? Actually, many of the private optical stores were very happy with the news of the lawsuit, as the Luxottica Company is known as a Company who acts in a difficult and sometimes “unfriendly” manner with their customers, and with the news of the lawsuit that Luxottica lost, they were pleased with the result. · Which are the present situation with Luxottica and the future plans of your company? Unfortunately, the situation with Luxottica is that they are not selling to our Company, and therefore I am forced to buy Luxottica brands via “parallel” import from different countries, and not via the direct marketing of Luxottica. This is a bit of a headache for us, and for Luxottica it’s a loss as well, as I do not abide to their will of sticking to their price –range, and we therefore sell
the frames at lower prices, and also as not always do we have available the required models, and these were models that we could sell, but we are not able to get, so they lose sales. Our plan is always to offer in all our stores a wide variety of world-wide branded frames, at good competitive prices. · How do you explain the actions of Luxottica? Luxottica think that they are the biggest and therefore the most important, and this is the reason they allow themselves to act the way that they do, and do anything they please. · Do you think it was possible for Luxottica to avoid this lawsuit with your Company? Of course this was possible! I am not a person who is eager to battle against anybody, peace is the best for everyone. However, what can I do if there are members of their staff who are led by their personal ego, rather than the Company’s wellbeing. · If your business with Luxottica was intact, would you have been able to increase sales of Luxottica brands in the Israeli optical market? Most certainly, we are the largest optical chain stores with 144 optical stores all over the country, thank G-d we sell hundreds of thousands of frames and sunglasses every year. From the hundreds of thousands of frames
and sunglasses sold per year, only about 50,000 of them are Luxottica branded products, so I ask you, is it not their (Luxottica’s) loss that because of their ego, they have lost a customer who could have sold about 200,000 pcs per year. · Is there a chance of making peace between Luxottica and Optica Halperin? As I have already mentioned, I am a person who seeks peace, and when someone puts their hand out for a “handshake of peace”, I will never reject, not only will I accept, I will “hug” in return. · Just to get more information about your Company: How many employees do you have? Approximately 500 workers When was Optica Halperin born? Optica Halperin was established in 1988 – 28 years ago. Have you had any offers for international partnerships with your company? Yes we have been addressed a number of times in the past by international investors regarding partnership, and in the past we were not ready for this offer, today we are. We do not know what the future holds, we may possibly have a partnership with an interntional Optical Company.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
37
NEWS
CARRERA SPONSOR OF
“SUICIDE SQUAD” PREMIERES
Carrera sponsored Warner Bros. Pictures’ world premieres of “Suicide Squad,” in New York City on August 1st and at the European premiere in London on August 3rd. The popular eyewear brand found “Suicide Squad” to be an ideal fit; starring in the film as the Joker, Academy Award-winning actor, musician, director and entrepreneur Jared Leto is also Carrera’s 2016 brand ambassador.
DROMe AGAIN WITH
CLASSGLASSES The collaboration between DROMe, luxury and sophisticated clothing collection that reinterprets the use of leather and ClassGlasses, active in the production and worldwide distribution of prescription frames and sunglasses, has been confirmed. They will create two new models of frames for the next Paris fashion show, to be held on October 1. The Beccarini family, owners of ClassGlasses, provides Factory Ltd., manufacturer of DROMe, its extensive know-how of over 50 years in the eyewear industry.
SAFILO GROUP RE-ENTERS ARGENTINA Safilo Group announced its return to the Argentina market signing a distribution agreement with OCSA SLR of Messrs. Cosentino. The return to Argentina represents for Safilo a further step in the development of the Latin America region, that was established as dedicated commercial Division in the context of its 2020 Strategic Plan.
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
VISIONARIES IN EDUCATION + FASHION + TECHNOLOGY
NEW YORK MARCH 31-APRIL 2 BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
LAS VEGAS SEPTEMBER 13-16 PROUD SUPPORTER OF:
VisionExpo.com PRODUCED BY:
NEWS
MODO is Premium Partner
of the Sauber F1 Team The partnership with the Sauber F1 Team will kick off during the Italian Grand Prix in Monza and is for the remainder of the 2016 Formula One season. The MODO branding will appear on the mirrors of the Sauber C35-Ferraris. Furthermore, the entire team will also be equipped with sunglasses to represent the MODO products in style.
HEJ COPENHAGEN! MYKITA opened its own space on one of Copenhagen’s best-loved shopping streets. A few doors down from local design store icons, the light world of MYKITA radiates from large shop windows, appearing even brighter next to the dark anthracite of the exterior walls. The visual theme of contrasts was picked up from the shop’s original ceiling heritage-listed structure of white glass panels and brass profiles.
Brad Pitt in Tom
Ford
Brad Pitt wore the glasses TOM No. 7 on the Le Mans circuit, in France, on occasion of the 84th edition of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, one of the most famous automobile race in the world. The Hollywood star has had the honour of opening the race June 18, 2016. This model belongs to the TOM FORD Eyewear Private Collection, a special edition of sunglasses and eyeglasses consisting of 11 models that Mr. Ford uses personally and that in some cases designed specifically for himself.
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
NEWS
POLICE EYEWEAR WENT BRAZIL
POLICE has created an exclusive and unique Limited Edition to celebrate Neymar Jr, the talented Brazilian player captain of the Green-Gold National and protagonist in Rio 2016, in his home country. Inspired by gold, the metal of the most coveted medal by all athletes in the world, Police revisited in future retro style a classic model in its collection entirely 24K gold-plated.
SAFILO AND MAX MARA EARLY RENEWAL Safilo Group and Max Mara brand announced the early renewal of their licensing agreement for the design, manufacturing and worldwide distribution of the collections of optical frames and sunglasses. The new agreement will now run until December 31, 2023. Safilo and Max Mara enjoy a partnership which spans nearly 20 years, dating back to 1997. Max Mara Eyewear was recently selected by Vogue.com as one of the ‘7 Best Accessories from the Milan Fall Winter 2016 Fashion Week’.
JOEL CAMATHIAS IN MOSCOT On the occasion of his second participation at the 24th Hours of Le Mans, driving his Porsche 911 RSR of KCMG team - GTE-AM, the driver Joel Camathias came to the press conference and all the related events wearing the model Glick signed by MOSCOT.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
41
FAREWELL
We lost a great friend Remembering Pedro Ranieri On July 1st, at the age of only 66 years, Pedro Ranieri has left forever his family, friends, co-workers and the eyewear industry of which he was fond. Pedro was one of the first friends I’ve had since the beginning when I joined my father in publishing VEDERE. We were almost the same age, and his clear eyes and his smile has accompanied me from year to year, from fair to fair. I still remember his excitement when he told me about the new collections and collaborations with major companies in Europe and the pride with which he told me that the daughters flanked him in the company. Goodbye Pedro, see you later.... Isabella Morpurgo
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VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
FAREWELL
Pedro Ranieri used to describe himself as “passionate about eyewear”. He first came in contact with this product at age 15, and he never looked back. He established his own company in 1974, along with his wife Valentina Sbrascini. Their first eyeglasses were manufactured in a small workshop that belonged to his friend Enrique Correa. After two years of hard work, Pedro took his first trip to Italy. That journey for ever changed his vision and his approach to the work. As a result, Pedro – who had a great eye for fashion and was a born aesthete- adapted Italian design, production techniques, passion for quality and innovation in technology and materials to the Argentine market. He then started to grow his business, by creating his first brands and starting to sell to eyewear stores directly. As a result of his frequent trips to Europe and the consolidation of his position in the Argentine market, in the 1990s Ranieri became a distributor for the prestigious international product lines of the Italian companies Safilo and De Rigo. Eventually, Ranieri S.R.L. and De Rigo S.p.a. partnered to establish Ranieri Argentina S.A.; the company continued to manufacture and sell its own brands, as well as the prestigious Italian group’s brands. The business kept going well. Late in 2002, however, Argentina went through one of the worst political and economic crises in its history. Determined to overcome the crisis, the Ranieris bought their Italian partner’s share of the business; as a result, Pedro Ranieri and Valentina Sbrascini were left as the sole owners of the company. Their determination and hard work paid off once again: soon, the company was back on the path of growth. New markets opened up, and Pedro started to look beyond Argentina, to the region as a whole. Over the last few years, he split his time between product trips, leading his company’s design team, and his other passion: scuba diving. He also worked tirelessly to consolidate his work teams and professionalize the company so as to ensure a smooth generational transition. He established the team that was to run the company in the future: his wife Valentina, his daughters Tamara and Florencia, as well as Francisco Mamone (manufacturing) and Pablo Micolucci (design). They all share the values that Pedro imbued into the company: vision, perseverance in the face of difficulties, a proactive approach, and team work. These values are the foundation of a family tradition that is now part of the company and will lead the way into the future.
VEDERE INTERNATIONAL – SEPTEMBER 2016
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The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2016
spe c ia l sil mo
ADVERTISERS DIOPS
p 33
Publisher
EPOS
p1
Edizioni Ariminum Srl
FEDON Eyewear
p 29
Via Negroli 51/A - 20133 Milano Italy
HONG KONG OPTICAL FAIR
p 26
HOYA
p9
INVU – Swiss Eyewear Group
p 17
IOFT
Cover III
MIDO
p 12 - 13
Advertising
MOMI Eyewear - CIDI
Cover II
Isabella Morpurgo
OMAS
p 15
Editorial Staff
OPTI
p 31
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SILMO
Cover IV
Layout
VISION EXPO
p 41
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www.vedere.it welcome@vedere.it Publishing Director Isabella Morpurgo – isabellamorpurgo@vedere.it
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s p ecial s il mo
• The journal publishes articles and releases from individual authors or firms. Publishing this material does not involve the journal’s opinion or liability. Autorizzazione Tribunale di Milano del 23-03-1991 N. 221 Edizioni Ariminum Srl - Via Negroli, 51/A - 20133 Milan - Italy
The First International Magazine on Optics and Eyewear - September 2016
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