Twin Beaches, Isle of Gigha

Gigha is a wee island paradise. It’s the most southerly Inner Hebridean island, yet surprisingly is not as well known as its larger neighbours, which include Islay and Jura. Located just three kilometres off the Kintyre coast, Gigha is easily reached via a 20-minute ferry journey from Tayinloan.

Towards the north of the island, Gigha’s Twin Beaches sit on either side of a tombolo, a thin strip of land which connects the main island from the tiny outcrop of Eilean Garbh. Of course, I can never resist swimming on both sides!

The Swim

The south-facing beach, Bàgh Rubha Ruaidh, is best at high tide. It is pretty flat and takes a while to get deep enough to swim. I love snorkelling in the shallows and looking at the different kinds of seaweed in the bay.

The north-facing beach, Bàgh na Dòirlinne, is truly stunning, with white sand and turquoise water, and is generally better for swimming.

The entry is gradually sloping and it gets deep enough to swim more quickly than the southfacing beach. It is around 150 metres across the bay, and I love swimming widths and practising handstands on this side.

Be aware that small boats occasionally anchor in this sheltered bay.

Technical Information

DESCRIPTION beach ORIENTATION south and north TIDES both best at high tide ACCESS 500m walk or cycle from ferry to beaches ENTRY sand GOOD FOR double dipping; turquoise water; wildlife watching LOCATION 55.7229, -5.7346

Getting there

The ferry to the Isle of Gigha runs from Tayinloan (where there is a car park available if you don’t want to take your car with you). It is a turn-upand-go ferry service, with no booking necessary.

Gigha is a small island with only one road and is easy to explore on a bike or on foot. You can hire bikes at Gigha Boats and Activity Centre, which is just as you come off the ferry. The road is reasonably flat and virtually traffic free, so it’s ideal for a gentle six-kilometre cycle to the beaches.

From Ardminish, follow the road north until you reach a wooden signpost pointing the way towards the Twin Beaches. There is a small amount of parking next to the road.

There are no facilities up at this end of the island.

Access

From the road, head through the gate and follow the (often muddy) track through a grassy field. The track swings to the right; continue straight ahead here down to the beaches.

Refreshments

» The Nook, Ardminish. Fresh, local fish and seafood takeaway. Simple and delicious. Seasonal.

» Ardminish Stores, Ardminish. Local shop and post office with lots of delicious local supplies, including ice creams from Gigha’s Wee Isle Dairy.

» The Boathouse, Ardminish. Exceptional seafood restaurant – not cheap but worth every penny! Seasonal.

Ardtalla Beach, Islay

Islay has many beautiful beaches, but the waves and currents on the wild Atlantic west coast can be treacherous. Do not try entering the water at Machir Bay (Kilchoman), Saligo Bay or Lossit Bay, as they have strong currents and dangerous rips.

There are a number of incredible swimming options around other parts of the coast. My favourite is Ardtalla Beach (Tràigh Bhàn) on the east coast. Protected by a series of skerries and rocks, it is superbly sheltered from almost all wind directions, resulting in a shallow (but deep enough to swim), lagoon-like bay with spectacular water clarity.

With white sand, lush vegetation lining the beach and views across to the Kintyre peninsula, it is one of those stunning places that I feel like I never want to leave, especially on a sunny day. I’ve also been lucky enough to spot sea eagles at the far end of the beach and curious seals watching me as I swim.

The Swim

The beach has a lovely, gently sloping entry. You can swim here at any time; however, it is most protected from southerly winds at low tide. It is an excellent place for shorter swims and snorkelling in the shallows. The lagoon is around 150 metres wide, and I’ve managed to swim lengths of about 250 metres at high tide. It becomes very shallow at low tide but is still deep enough to paddle and swim closer to the rocks.

Stick within the lagoon and watch out for submerged rocks towards the northern end of the beach.

Technical Information

DESCRIPTION reach Claggain Bay, keep driving to the end of the bay and park in the small car park on the right. This is the end of the official road.

There is additional parking on the grass at Claggain Bay – another lovely beach, particularly at the sandier, southern end of the bay.

Access

From the parking area, go through the gate and follow the track, which bends to the right. Once you’ve passed the first stone wall, head right across the field. Please be aware that there can sometimes be cows or sheep grazing here.

Refreshments

» Ardstream, Ardbeg Distillery, Ardbeg. Fabulous converted airstream trailer by the courtyard at Ardbeg Distillery. Serves hot and cold drinks, home baking and light lunches. Seasonal.

Getting there

From Port Ellen take the A846 towards the southern distilleries and follow the road all the way to the end, passing Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg and the Kildalton Cross. When you

» SeaSalt Bistro & Takeaway, Port Ellen. Tasty food and good pizzas.

» The Wee Box, Playing Fields, Port Ellen. Cute little converted horse trailer serving delicious hot drinks, home bakes and sandwiches. Seasonal.