Easdale Slate Quarries

Easdale is the smallest permanently inhabited island of the Inner Hebrides. For almost three centuries, it was at the centre of the Scottish slate industry; at its peak the island had seven quarries and a community of more than 500 miners.

In 1881 a huge storm seriously flooded and damaged the island’s working quarries to such an extent that the industry never properly recovered, although large-scale quarrying continued until the early twentieth century. Easdale is now home to around 60 people, and the quarries have all been flooded.

There are five enclosed quarry ‘pools’ and a couple that are still open to the sea. I have swum in all of them and can report that some are better for swimming than others. All have stunningly clear blue water and are very deep. They are gloriously sheltered places to swim and lovely and calm even when the sea around the island is rough.

The Swim

Although it is possible to swim in all of the pools, only three have suitable entries. The two pools towards the north-west of the island are the easiest to access, and the pool near the south-west point has the best views. All these have sloping slate shingle beaches.

The smallest, L-shaped pool is the most popular for swimming. It is the shallowest and has the most gradually sloping entry. You can stick close to the edge and avoid the deeper sections. Both the other pools get deep very quickly, so be prepared if you don’t like deep water.

Be careful, though, as slate can be very sharp. It was so warm last time I visited that I decided not to wear anything on my feet (not a good idea). I managed to get a nasty cut on my toe from carelessly kicking a bit of slate while swimming.

Technical Information

DESCRIPTION flooded quarry MAXIMUM DEPTH 90m ACCESS no cars allowed on the island; 750m walk to the first pool ENTRY sloping slate shingle; some pools get deep more quickly than others GOOD FOR sheltered swims; deep water; multiple dips LOCATION 56.2930, -5.6619

Getting there

From the A816 south of Oban, turn on to the B844, signposted Easdale. Follow the road over to the Isle of Seil. Once you arrive in Ellenabeich, there is parking close to the jetty and a larger car park around the corner. There are regular buses from Oban to Ellenabeich, running every day except Sundays. You don’t need to book the ferry to Easdale. There is a little waiting room with a button to call the ferry. The boat is tiny, and there is no undercover area on the boat, so make sure you have wet-weather gear if it is raining. The crossing only takes a few minutes.

Access

From the jetty, skirt around the harbour and continue along the path that crosses the northern end of the island. Cross over the narrow section between two pools. At the far end, take a track down to the left, which will take you down to the entry of the high-sided quarry pool.

A little further along the main track, you can follow a small path on the right which will take you down to the entry of the smallest pool.

To get to the third pool, you can continue along the track to the south of the island. The entry for this pool is at the furthest corner so you have to go around the edge (it is a bit rocky at some points) to reach it.

Refreshments

» The Puffer, Easdale. The only eating and drinking establishment on the island. Tasty cakes and yummy soup. Seasonal.

» The Oyster, Ellenabeich. Great bar and restaurant for before or after your ferry trip over to Easdale. Inside and outside seating.