vertical-life.info
Sportclimbing Guide
English edition
Arco Valle del Sarca Valli Giudicarie Trento Rovereto
Imprint Publishing house: Vertical-Life srl, 39042 Bressanone, Italia Authors : Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer English translations: Graciela Aguirre, Alexander Holzmann Editorial staff: Matthias Polig, Maria Hilber Layout: Arno Dejaco, Maria Hilber Graphics: Maria Hilber, Arno Dejaco, Florian Dariz Photos: Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer, Ulla Lohmann (www.ullalohmann.de), Matthias Polig, Matteo Pavana (The Vertical Eye), Elena Paissan Print: Athesia Druck GmbH, Bozen Typography:Intro All rights reserved Copyright© 2013 Vertical-Life GmbH Brixen, Otto von Guggenbergstraße 34, Tel. 0472 611 753, vertical-life.info 1. Edition July 2013 ISBN 978-88-98495-00-9 Important information on this guide: All information in this guide was thoroughly researched by the authors. No liability is assumed for any inaccurate indications. The use of this climbing guide is solely at your own risk. No liability can be assumed for accidents and damages. For suggestions and news please contact: Vertical-Life GmbH, Otto von Guggenbergstraße 34, 39042 Brixen, office@vertical-life.info Cover shot: Manuel Senettin, Arco (Photo: Vertical-Life)
2
Content Introduction Preface Legend Abstract
1. Arco and surroundings
4 6 7
19
1.1 Swing Area 1.2 Eremo di San Paolo 1.3 Ottava Meraviglia 1.4 Fattoria degli Struzzi 1.5 Calvario 1.6 Muro dell’Asino 1.7 L’Orto 1.8 Red Point Wall 1.9 Bus de la Stria 1.10 Le Piazzole 1.11 Padaro 1.12 Mandrea 1.13 Sanderland 1.14 Regina del Lago 1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole 1.16 Belvedere 1.17 Nago 1.18 Massone 1.19 Terra Promessa 1.20 Grottosauro 1.21 Piccola Dallas 1.22 La Pizzeria
20 22 24 26 30 32 36 40 46 50 54 58 60 64 72 76 80 90 102 106 110 114
2. Sarche and surroundings
121
2.1 Camerette 2.2 Baule 2.3 Giardino di Nato 2.4 Sisyphos 2.5 Athos 2.6 Sarche 2.7 La Panoramica 2.8 Babilonia 2.9 Il Posto delle Fragole 2.10 Limarock 2.11 Bassilandia 2.12 La Gola 2.13 Arcadioland 2.14 Pezzent Area 2.15 Santa Massenza
122 126 128 130 134 136 140 142 144 146 148 154 164 166 168
2.16 Climax 2.17 Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute 2.18 La Finestra 2.19 Margone 2,20 Coel dela Val dela Porta 2.21 Ranzo 2.22 Lagolo 2.23 San Siro 2.24 Cavedine 2.25 Castello di Drena
170 174 176 180 184 186 194 196 202 206
3. Giudicarie Valleys
211
3.1 Promeghin 3.2 Alpenrose 3.3 Nembia 3.4 Lago Nembia 3.5 Sunny Place 3.6 Val d’Algone 3.7 Coltura 3.8 Croz de le Niere 3.9 Breguzzo 3.10 Val Lomasone 3.11 Comano
212 216 222 224 228 232 238 246 254 258 266
4. Trento and surroundings
271
4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7
La Vela Terlago Forti di Civezzano Calisio Val di Cembra Spormaggiore Cavedago
5. Rovereto and surroundings 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6
Eremo di San Colombano Acheni Noriglio Zengio del Far Noter Serrada L’Orrido
Appendice
The developers Index Classics
272 278 282 290 292 296 300
305
306 312 314 322 324 332
336 338 342 3
+0+0 +0+02+3+004+2+01412+3+0107+2+00++00 +0+0+01+0++0022+1+5+00134262++1+01514+5+6+32220110+++000+++000 +0+0 +0+01+2+03314+2+20131++200++ 00++ 00
2. Sarche and surroundings 2.1 Camerette
122
15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.2 Baule
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 37 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 3 0 4 3 2 1 4 2 3 0 1 7 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
126
20 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.3 Giardino di Nato 10 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.4 Sisyphos
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
128
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 24 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 1 1 3 2 2 1 2 1 5 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
130
15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.5 Athos
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 44 0 0 1 0 1 0 2 0 5 0 4 6 1 5 4 4 6 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
134
20 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.6 Sarche
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 21 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 2 0 1 2 1 3 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
136
5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
2.7 La Panoramica 10 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
10
121
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 21 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 2 2 3 4 2 0 1 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
140
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 1 3 2 2 3 1 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
+0+01 +1+0041+13+301537+9+4185+6+470623+1+4100++ 00 +0+0+0 +0+0+11024+3+0+1314158+11+4+981401455++2+651410032+0++100+0++ 00 +0+046+0+02+5+311 +2+00134+1+001++5030++00
4. Trento and surroundings 4.1 La Vela
271 272
5 min
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 89 0 0 0 0 1 0 4 0 13 3 15 7 9 4 8 5 6 4 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.2 Terlago
278
15-20 min
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 35 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 3 0 0 1 1 1 1 7 6 3 4 1 1 0 1 0 0 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.3 Forti di Civezzano
282
15 min
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 100 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 3 3 4 3 11 8 11 14 8 5 1 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.4 Calisio
290
10 min
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 18 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 1 1 1 4 1 0 5 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.5 Val di Cembra
292
2-15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.6 Spormaggiore 5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
4.7 Cavedago
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 56 0 0 0 0 1 0 4 0 13 4 15 8 9 4 8 5 6 4 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
296
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 24 0 4 6 0 0 0 2 0 5 1 1 1 2 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
300
5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +
N° 30 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 1 1 1 0 1 3 4 1 0 0 1 5 3 0 0 0 0 0 0
15
Ranzo
S. Massenza Margone
Stenico Sarche Ponte Arche
Tione
Comano Pietramurata
Cavedine
1.22 La Pizzeria 114 1.4 Fattoria degli Struzzi 26 1.3 Ottava Meraviglia 24
Drena
1.1 Swing Area 20 Dro
1.8 Red Point Wall 40 1.6 Muro dell’Asino 32
Ceniga
1.2 Eremo di San Paolo 22
1.12 Mandrea 58 1.13 Sanderland 60
1.20 Grottosauro 106
Padaro Laghel
1.11 Padaro 54
1.19 Terra Promessa 102 1.21 Piccola Dallas 110 1.18 Massone 90
1.10 Le Piazzole 50
1.7 L’Orto 36
Arco
1.5 Calvario 30 1.9 Bus de la Stria 46 Ronzo Riva
1.16 Belvedere 76 Nago Torbole
Rovereto
1.17 Nago 80 Passo S. Giovanni
1.14 Regina del Lago 64
1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole 72
0
18
1
2
4 km
1.
Arco and surroundings
Since the nineties, Arco has been the climbing mecca of Italy. In the areas surrounding the town of Arco lie the crags which were first fully equipped with bolts. Initially, mainly featureless rocks were sought out and so Swing Area, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Bus de la Stria were selected. As rock climbing spread further over time, many new and unique climbing sectors emerged: from Massone, where overhangs have been developed, to Nago which attracts a very broad audience. The climbing sectors extend over all limestone rocks that surround Nago. Calvario was ultimately put back into play, since some interesting new routes were created on the left side. In and
around Arco, every climber will find something for his/her preference: there are routes in the 8th and 9th French grades, as you will find at the Pueblo sector in Massone or at Eremo di San Paolo. But beginners will get their money’s worth, for example in Muro dell’Asino. Climbing is possible in the summer and in the winter, when the number of summer climbing crags are limited. Piccola Dallas is certainly a good choice on hot days. There are many quiet crags such as Mandrea. More than anything though, there is still much untapped potential, especially in the surroundings of Padaro.
Foto: Vertical-Life
19
1. Arco and surroundings
1.3 270m
Ottava Meraviglia Ceniga
+0 +0 +01+23+12+10 +0
20min Limestone
The name (Eigth World Wonder) of this quiet wall might be somewhat of an exaggeration, but it is well worth a visit. The comfortable base, the beauty and the height of the routes will let you forget about the longer approach.
Approach
Arrival
From Arco go towards Trento/Ceniga. Right at the beginning of the village Ceniga there is a parking lot on the right side. Park the car either here or drive for another 50 meters where you find a small parking lot on the left side.
Across from the first parking lot a side road leads to the Roman Bridge. At the end of the bridge follow a gravel path upwards (sign: Monte Colt). Shortly after, a trail branches off on the right (red marker), which needs to be disregarded. Instead, continue straight until there is another well visible path branching off to the right after about 100 meters. Follow this trail and after a 5-minute walk a stone marker announces the path to the nearby crag of Ceniga, which should be again disregarded. The approach hence continues straight and flattens out after a bit. Near a branch stuck in the ground and a small stone marker begins the path leading directly up to the wall.
CENIGA
↗ Trento
Sarca
OTTAVA MERAVIGLIA
↓ Arco
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a + 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
22 W
24
N S
E
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUG
SEPT
OCT
NOV
DEC
1.3 Ottava Meraviglia
Ottava meraviglia
1
–
2
7a
34 5
6
7 8
9 10 11
7c+ 7c 8a – 7b+
– – 7c –
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
7a 7b 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6c+
Route 1
N.N.
Grade
Route
Meters
N.N.
20
12
Grande giga
Grade
Meters
7a
30
2
N.N.
7a
30
13
Gorilla lilla
7b
20
3
Project
N.N.
30
14
Il conte Ddracula
7a+
30
4
Diaol can
N.N.
25
15
Ciao Ciba
7a+
30
5
Chandra full
7c
22
16
Zolla bepponica
7a+
30
6
N.N.
N.N.
21
17
Name humesh
7a
28
7
Ammazza cammelli
7c+
35
18
Ganga Ines
6b
28
8
La crux
7c
35
19
Marina Tandrilla
6b+
23
9
Oceano stellare
8a
35
20
Boom
6c
23
Il mio piede sinistro
6c+
23
Il camaleonte
6c+
25
10
Suria nemaste
N.N.
25
21
11
Auannagannammerica
7b+
25
22
25
1. Arco and surroundings
74
1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole
Spiaggia delle Lucertole Foto:Vertical-Life
75
1.Val Giudicaria Valleys Lomasone Sektor D1
6
4
2
1
7
4a
3a
6a+
3
4a
5
6a
6a+
6a
Val Lomasone Sektor D2
15
8
4a
12
5c
11
9
3a
262
10
2a
2a
13
6a
14
6c+
6c
16
6c
Val Lomasone Sektor D3
3.10 Val Lomasone
21
5a+
20
4a 17
18
5b
3a
23
22
6a
5c
24 25
6a+ 5c+
26
5c
28
27
4a
5b
29 30
3a 2a
19
5a
Sector D - Roccia dei Folletti Grade
Meters
1
Route Via del lumac
6a
15
17
Winnie the Pooh
5b
18
2
Gazza ladra
6a+
15
18
Baffardello
3a
22
Route
Grade
Meters
3
Via del Skilat
6a
15
19
Beilhund
5a
22
4
Gatto silvestro
6a+
15
20
Calcaròt
4a
22
5
Via dei topolini
3a
15
21
Encof
5a+
22
6
Le lucertole
4a
15
22
Faunet
5c
20
7
Martora
4a
15
23
Giosalpino
6a
20
8
Via del camoscio
4a
12
24
Maget
6a+
20
9
Tom & Gerry
3a
12
25
Lauro
5c+
16
10
Il corsaro
2a
12
26
MazarĂšl
5c
16
11
Peter pan
2a
12
27
Morkies
5b
16
12
Willy il coyote
5c
15
28
Rurel
4a
18
13
La salamandra
6a
15
29
Sgranf
3a
16
14
Diabolik
6c+
18
30
Zampa di gallo
2a
16
15
Via della Sigfi
6c
18
16
Sandokan
6c
18
263
1. Trento and surroundings
4.5
Val di Cembra Prà
+031+405+1339+6241+0 +0 +0
510m 2-15min Porphyry
The climbing crag of Avisio in Val di Cembra is situated in an exceptionally idyllic surrounding. A river runs by directly near the base of sector B and also a barbeque pit is there. The climbing is on porphyry and next to the sport climbing routes there are a few interesting trad climbs. Avisio is an ideal place to spend a relaxing day while climbing a few routes.
VAL DI CEMBRA B
fixed rope
A
↑ Val di cembra / Pra‘
PRA‘
PIAZZO
↓ Piazzo
↙ Trento / Faver
↓ Segonzano
3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a + 0 3 1 0 4 0 5 0 13 3 9 3 6 2 4 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
56 W
N S
292
E
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUG
SEPT
OCT
NOV
DEC
4.5 Val di Cembra
Val di Cembra Sektor A1
1
4b
2
4b
3
5a
4
6b
5
6a
17
6
5c
7
6a
Arrival
From the highway exit Trento Nord drive in the direction of Lavis. In Lavis follow the road towards Val di Cembra. After a few kilometers on the main road you reach Faver, where you turn right towards Segonzano. The road now runs downhill and over a bridge. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into the town of Piazzo (sharp turn). Follow the road through narrow streets into the village and continue to the next town. There are only a few parking spots there, but it is possible to drive through the orchards on the forest road until the wall is reached (near the no transit sign). Park there next to a barbeque area.
Approach Exit the car.
Characteristics
Please do not park on private property or on the meadows next to the road to avoid disturbing the work of the farmers.
9 10 11 12
8
13
6c 6b 5b 5c 6c+ 6c
14
7a
15
6b+
6c
16
6c
Sector A1 Route
Grade
1
Baby
4b
Meters 3
2
Baby
4b
4
3
Vac
5a
6
4
Stadel
6b
8
5
Poze
6a
8
6
Lagabrun
5c
10 10
7
Mezon
6a
8
Pian Magior
6c
12
9
Dagan
6b
14
10
Sauch
5b
14
11
Pradole
5c
14
12
Saosent
6c+
12
13
Cercenal
6c
14
14
Moinac
7a
14
15
Mezatrad
6b+
14
16
Sere
6c
14
17
Ischioni
6c
14
293
Index Alphabetical order A 5.2 3.2 2.13 2.5 B 2.8 2.11 2.2 1.16 3.9 1.9 C 2.1 4.4 1.5 2.25 4.7 2.24 2.16 2,20 3.7 3.11 3.8 E 5.1 1.2 F 1.4 2.18 4.3 G 2.17 2.3 2.12 1.20 I 2.9 L 2.18 2.12 2.22 3.4 2.7 1.22 1.10 4.1 2.10 5.6 1.7
338
Acheni Alpenrose Arcadioland Athos
312 216 164 134
Babilonia Bassilandia Baule Belvedere Breguzzo Bus de la Stria
142 148 126 76 254 46
Camerette Calisio Calvario Castello di Drena Cavedago Cavedine Climax Coel dela Val dela Porta Coltura Comano Croz de le Niere
122 290 30 206 300 202 170 184 238 266 246
Eremo di San Colombano Eremo di San Paolo
306 22
Fattoria degli Struzzi La Finestra Forti di Civezzano
26 176 282
Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute Giardino di Nato La Gola Grottosauro
174 128 154 106
Il Posto delle Fragole
144
La Finestra La Gola Lagolo Lago Nembia La Panoramica La Pizzeria Le Piazzole La Vela Limarock L’Orrido L’Orto
176 154 194 222 140 114 50 272 146 332 36
M 1.12 2.19 1.18 1.6 N 1.17 3.3 5.3 O 5.6 1.7 1.3 P 1.11 2.7 2.14 1.10 1.21 1.22 2.9 3.1 R 2.21 1.8 1.14 S 1.13 2.23 2.15 2.6 5.5 2.4 1.15 4.6 3.5 1.1 T 4.2 1.19 V 3.6 4.5 3.10 4.1 Z 5.4
Mandrea Margone Massone Muro dell’Asino
58 180 90 32
Nago Nembia Noriglio
80 222 314
L’Orrido L’Orto Ottava Meraviglia
332 36 24
Padaro La Panoramica Pezzent Area Le Piazzole Piccola Dallas La Pizzeria Il Posto delle Fragole Promeghin
54 140 166 50 110 114 144 212
Ranzo Red Point Wall Regina del Lago
186 40 64
Sanderland San Siro Santa Massenza Sarche Serrada Sisyphos Spiaggia delle Lucertole Spormaggiore Sunny Place Swing Area
60 196 168 136 324 130 72 296 228 20
Terlago Terra Promessa
278 102
Val d’Algone Val di Cembra Val Lomasone La Vela
232 292 258 272
Zengio del Far Noter
322
Take it easy!
Every monkey climbs a 9b+
vertical-life.info
347
without your soul benni hangl, pic: klaus kranebitter
it‘s just metal
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