Best of Arco - English

vertical-life.info

Sportclimbing Guide

English edition

Arco Valle del Sarca Valli Giudicarie Trento Rovereto

Imprint Publishing house: Vertical-Life srl, 39042 Bressanone, Italia Authors : Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer English translations: Graciela Aguirre, Alexander Holzmann Editorial staff: Matthias Polig, Maria Hilber Layout: Arno Dejaco, Maria Hilber Graphics: Maria Hilber, Arno Dejaco, Florian Dariz Photos: Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer, Ulla Lohmann (www.ullalohmann.de), Matthias Polig, Matteo Pavana (The Vertical Eye), Elena Paissan Print: Athesia Druck GmbH, Bozen Typography:Intro All rights reserved Copyright© 2013 Vertical-Life GmbH Brixen, Otto von Guggenbergstraße 34, Tel. 0472 611 753, vertical-life.info 1. Edition July 2013 ISBN 978-88-98495-00-9 Important information on this guide: All information in this guide was thoroughly researched by the authors. No liability is assumed for any inaccurate indications. The use of this climbing guide is solely at your own risk. No liability can be assumed for accidents and damages.

For suggestions and news please contact: Vertical-Life GmbH, Otto von Guggenbergstraße 34, 39042 Brixen, office@vertical-life.info Cover shot: Manuel Senettin, Arco (Photo: Vertical-Life)

2

Content Introduction Preface Legend Abstract

1. Arco and surroundings

4 6 7

19

1.1 Swing Area 1.2 Eremo di San Paolo 1.3 Ottava Meraviglia 1.4 Fattoria degli Struzzi 1.5 Calvario 1.6 Muro dell’Asino 1.7 L’Orto 1.8 Red Point Wall 1.9 Bus de la Stria 1.10 Le Piazzole 1.11 Padaro 1.12 Mandrea 1.13 Sanderland 1.14 Regina del Lago 1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole 1.16 Belvedere 1.17 Nago 1.18 Massone 1.19 Terra Promessa 1.20 Grottosauro 1.21 Piccola Dallas 1.22 La Pizzeria

20 22 24 26 30 32 36 40 46 50 54 58 60 64 72 76 80 90 102 106 110 114

2. Sarche and surroundings

121

2.1 Camerette 2.2 Baule 2.3 Giardino di Nato 2.4 Sisyphos 2.5 Athos 2.6 Sarche 2.7 La Panoramica 2.8 Babilonia 2.9 Il Posto delle Fragole 2.10 Limarock 2.11 Bassilandia 2.12 La Gola 2.13 Arcadioland 2.14 Pezzent Area 2.15 Santa Massenza

122 126 128 130 134 136 140 142 144 146 148 154 164 166 168

2.16 Climax 2.17 Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute 2.18 La Finestra 2.19 Margone 2,20 Coel dela Val dela Porta 2.21 Ranzo 2.22 Lagolo 2.23 San Siro 2.24 Cavedine 2.25 Castello di Drena

170 174 176 180 184 186 194 196 202 206

3. Giudicarie Valleys

211

3.1 Promeghin 3.2 Alpenrose 3.3 Nembia 3.4 Lago Nembia 3.5 Sunny Place 3.6 Val d’Algone 3.7 Coltura 3.8 Croz de le Niere 3.9 Breguzzo 3.10 Val Lomasone 3.11 Comano

212 216 222 224 228 232 238 246 254 258 266

4. Trento and surroundings

271

4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7

La Vela Terlago Forti di Civezzano Calisio Val di Cembra Spormaggiore Cavedago

5. Rovereto and surroundings 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6

Eremo di San Colombano Acheni Noriglio Zengio del Far Noter Serrada L’Orrido

Appendice

The developers Index Classics

272 278 282 290 292 296 300

305

306 312 314 322 324 332

336 338 342 3

+0+0 +0+02+3+004+2+01412+3+0107+2+00++00 +0+0+01+0++0022+1+5+00134262++1+01514+5+6+32220110+++000+++000 +0+0 +0+01+2+03314+2+20131++200++ 00++ 00

2. Sarche and surroundings 2.1 Camerette

122

15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.2 Baule

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 37 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 3 0 4 3 2 1 4 2 3 0 1 7 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

126

20 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.3 Giardino di Nato 10 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.4 Sisyphos

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

128

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 24 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 1 1 3 2 2 1 2 1 5 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

130

15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.5 Athos

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 44 0 0 1 0 1 0 2 0 5 0 4 6 1 5 4 4 6 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

134

20 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.6 Sarche

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 21 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 2 0 1 2 1 3 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

136

5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

2.7 La Panoramica 10 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

10

121

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 21 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 2 2 3 4 2 0 1 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

140

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 1 3 2 2 3 1 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

+0+01 +1+0041+13+301537+9+4185+6+470623+1+4100++ 00 +0+0+0 +0+0+11024+3+0+1314158+11+4+981401455++2+651410032+0++100+0++ 00 +0+046+0+02+5+311 +2+00134+1+001++5030++00

4. Trento and surroundings 4.1 La Vela

271 272

5 min

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 89 0 0 0 0 1 0 4 0 13 3 15 7 9 4 8 5 6 4 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.2 Terlago

278

15-20 min

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 35 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 3 0 0 1 1 1 1 7 6 3 4 1 1 0 1 0 0 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.3 Forti di Civezzano

282

15 min

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 100 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 3 3 4 3 11 8 11 14 8 5 1 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.4 Calisio

290

10 min

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 18 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 1 1 1 4 1 0 5 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.5 Val di Cembra

292

2-15 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.6 Spormaggiore 5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

4.7 Cavedago

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 56 0 0 0 0 1 0 4 0 13 4 15 8 9 4 8 5 6 4 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

296

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 24 0 4 6 0 0 0 2 0 5 1 1 1 2 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

300

5 min J F M A M J J A S O N D

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a +

N° 30 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 1 1 1 0 1 3 4 1 0 0 1 5 3 0 0 0 0 0 0

15

Ranzo

S. Massenza Margone

Stenico Sarche Ponte Arche

Tione

Comano Pietramurata

Cavedine

1.22 La Pizzeria 114 1.4 Fattoria degli Struzzi 26 1.3 Ottava Meraviglia 24

Drena

1.1 Swing Area 20 Dro

1.8 Red Point Wall 40 1.6 Muro dell’Asino 32

Ceniga

1.2 Eremo di San Paolo 22

1.12 Mandrea 58 1.13 Sanderland 60

1.20 Grottosauro 106

Padaro Laghel

1.11 Padaro 54

1.19 Terra Promessa 102 1.21 Piccola Dallas 110 1.18 Massone 90

1.10 Le Piazzole 50

1.7 L’Orto 36

Arco

1.5 Calvario 30 1.9 Bus de la Stria 46 Ronzo Riva

1.16 Belvedere 76 Nago Torbole

Rovereto

1.17 Nago 80 Passo S. Giovanni

1.14 Regina del Lago 64

1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole 72

0

18

1

2

4 km

1.

Arco and surroundings

Since the nineties, Arco has been the climbing mecca of Italy. In the areas surrounding the town of Arco lie the crags which were first fully equipped with bolts. Initially, mainly featureless rocks were sought out and so Swing Area, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Bus de la Stria were selected. As rock climbing spread further over time, many new and unique climbing sectors emerged: from Massone, where overhangs have been developed, to Nago which attracts a very broad audience. The climbing sectors extend over all limestone rocks that surround Nago. Calvario was ultimately put back into play, since some interesting new routes were created on the left side. In and

around Arco, every climber will find something for his/her preference: there are routes in the 8th and 9th French grades, as you will find at the Pueblo sector in Massone or at Eremo di San Paolo. But beginners will get their money’s worth, for example in Muro dell’Asino. Climbing is possible in the summer and in the winter, when the number of summer climbing crags are limited. Piccola Dallas is certainly a good choice on hot days. There are many quiet crags such as Mandrea. More than anything though, there is still much untapped potential, especially in the surroundings of Padaro.

Foto: Vertical-Life

19

1. Arco and surroundings

1.3 270m

Ottava Meraviglia Ceniga

+0 +0 +01+23+12+10 +0

20min Limestone

The name (Eigth World Wonder) of this quiet wall might be somewhat of an exaggeration, but it is well worth a visit. The comfortable base, the beauty and the height of the routes will let you forget about the longer approach.

Approach

Arrival

From Arco go towards Trento/Ceniga. Right at the beginning of the village Ceniga there is a parking lot on the right side. Park the car either here or drive for another 50 meters where you find a small parking lot on the left side.

Across from the first parking lot a side road leads to the Roman Bridge. At the end of the bridge follow a gravel path upwards (sign: Monte Colt). Shortly after, a trail branches off on the right (red marker), which needs to be disregarded. Instead, continue straight until there is another well visible path branching off to the right after about 100 meters. Follow this trail and after a 5-minute walk a stone marker announces the path to the nearby crag of Ceniga, which should be again disregarded.

The approach hence continues straight and flattens out after a bit. Near a branch stuck in the ground and a small stone marker begins the path leading directly up to the wall.

CENIGA

↗ Trento

Sarca

OTTAVA MERAVIGLIA

↓ Arco

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a + 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

22 W

24

N S

E

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

1.3 Ottava Meraviglia

Ottava meraviglia

1

–

2

7a

34 5

6

7 8

9 10 11

7c+ 7c 8a – 7b+

– – 7c –

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

7a 7b 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 6c+

Route 1

N.N.

Grade

Route

Meters

N.N.

20

12

Grande giga

Grade

Meters

7a

30

2

N.N.

7a

30

13

Gorilla lilla

7b

20

3

Project

N.N.

30

14

Il conte Ddracula

7a+

30

4

Diaol can

N.N.

25

15

Ciao Ciba

7a+

30

5

Chandra full

7c

22

16

Zolla bepponica

7a+

30

6

N.N.

N.N.

21

17

Name humesh

7a

28

7

Ammazza cammelli

7c+

35

18

Ganga Ines

6b

28

8

La crux

7c

35

19

Marina Tandrilla

6b+

23

9

Oceano stellare

8a

35

20

Boom

6c

23

Il mio piede sinistro

6c+

23

Il camaleonte

6c+

25

10

Suria nemaste

N.N.

25

21

11

Auannagannammerica

7b+

25

22

25

1. Arco and surroundings

74

1.15 Spiaggia delle Lucertole

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Foto:Vertical-Life

75

1.Val Giudicaria Valleys Lomasone Sektor D1

6

4

2

1

7

4a

3a

6a+

3

4a

5

6a

6a+

6a

Val Lomasone Sektor D2

15

8

4a

12

5c

11

9

3a

262

10

2a

2a

13

6a

14

6c+

6c

16

6c

Val Lomasone Sektor D3

3.10 Val Lomasone

21

5a+

20

4a 17

18

5b

3a

23

22

6a

5c

24 25

6a+ 5c+

26

5c

28

27

4a

5b

29 30

3a 2a

19

5a

Sector D - Roccia dei Folletti Grade

Meters

1

Route Via del lumac

6a

15

17

Winnie the Pooh

5b

18

2

Gazza ladra

6a+

15

18

Baffardello

3a

22

Route

Grade

Meters

3

Via del Skilat

6a

15

19

Beilhund

5a

22

4

Gatto silvestro

6a+

15

20

Calcaròt

4a

22

5

Via dei topolini

3a

15

21

Encof

5a+

22

6

Le lucertole

4a

15

22

Faunet

5c

20

7

Martora

4a

15

23

Giosalpino

6a

20

8

Via del camoscio

4a

12

24

Maget

6a+

20

9

Tom & Gerry

3a

12

25

Lauro

5c+

16

10

Il corsaro

2a

12

26

MazarĂšl

5c

16

11

Peter pan

2a

12

27

Morkies

5b

16

12

Willy il coyote

5c

15

28

Rurel

4a

18

13

La salamandra

6a

15

29

Sgranf

3a

16

14

Diabolik

6c+

18

30

Zampa di gallo

2a

16

15

Via della Sigfi

6c

18

16

Sandokan

6c

18

263

1. Trento and surroundings

4.5

Val di Cembra Prà

+031+405+1339+6241+0 +0 +0

510m 2-15min Porphyry

The climbing crag of Avisio in Val di Cembra is situated in an exceptionally idyllic surrounding. A river runs by directly near the base of sector B and also a barbeque pit is there. The climbing is on porphyry and next to the sport climbing routes there are a few interesting trad climbs. Avisio is an ideal place to spend a relaxing day while climbing a few routes.

VAL DI CEMBRA B

fixed rope

A

↑ Val di cembra / Pra‘

PRA‘

PIAZZO

↓ Piazzo

↙ Trento / Faver

↓ Segonzano

3 4 5a + 5b + 5c + 6a + 6b + 6c + 7a + 7b + 7c + 8a + 8b + 8c + 9a + 0 3 1 0 4 0 5 0 13 3 9 3 6 2 4 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

56 W

N S

292

E

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

4.5 Val di Cembra

Val di Cembra Sektor A1

1

4b

2

4b

3

5a

4

6b

5

6a

17

6

5c

7

6a

Arrival

From the highway exit Trento Nord drive in the direction of Lavis. In Lavis follow the road towards Val di Cembra. After a few kilometers on the main road you reach Faver, where you turn right towards Segonzano. The road now runs downhill and over a bridge. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into the town of Piazzo (sharp turn). Follow the road through narrow streets into the village and continue to the next town. There are only a few parking spots there, but it is possible to drive through the orchards on the forest road until the wall is reached (near the no transit sign). Park there next to a barbeque area.

Approach Exit the car.

Characteristics

Please do not park on private property or on the meadows next to the road to avoid disturbing the work of the farmers.

9 10 11 12

8

13

6c 6b 5b 5c 6c+ 6c

14

7a

15

6b+

6c

16

6c

Sector A1 Route

Grade

1

Baby

4b

Meters 3

2

Baby

4b

4

3

Vac

5a

6

4

Stadel

6b

8

5

Poze

6a

8

6

Lagabrun

5c

10 10

7

Mezon

6a

8

Pian Magior

6c

12

9

Dagan

6b

14

10

Sauch

5b

14

11

Pradole

5c

14

12

Saosent

6c+

12

13

Cercenal

6c

14

14

Moinac

7a

14

15

Mezatrad

6b+

14

16

Sere

6c

14

17

Ischioni

6c

14

293

Index Alphabetical order A 5.2 3.2 2.13 2.5 B 2.8 2.11 2.2 1.16 3.9 1.9 C 2.1 4.4 1.5 2.25 4.7 2.24 2.16 2,20 3.7 3.11 3.8 E 5.1 1.2 F 1.4 2.18 4.3 G 2.17 2.3 2.12 1.20 I 2.9 L 2.18 2.12 2.22 3.4 2.7 1.22 1.10 4.1 2.10 5.6 1.7

338

Acheni Alpenrose Arcadioland Athos

312 216 164 134

Babilonia Bassilandia Baule Belvedere Breguzzo Bus de la Stria

142 148 126 76 254 46

Camerette Calisio Calvario Castello di Drena Cavedago Cavedine Climax Coel dela Val dela Porta Coltura Comano Croz de le Niere

122 290 30 206 300 202 170 184 238 266 246

Eremo di San Colombano Eremo di San Paolo

306 22

Fattoria degli Struzzi La Finestra Forti di Civezzano

26 176 282

Giardino delle Occasioni Perdute Giardino di Nato La Gola Grottosauro

174 128 154 106

Il Posto delle Fragole

144

La Finestra La Gola Lagolo Lago Nembia La Panoramica La Pizzeria Le Piazzole La Vela Limarock L’Orrido L’Orto

176 154 194 222 140 114 50 272 146 332 36

M 1.12 2.19 1.18 1.6 N 1.17 3.3 5.3 O 5.6 1.7 1.3 P 1.11 2.7 2.14 1.10 1.21 1.22 2.9 3.1 R 2.21 1.8 1.14 S 1.13 2.23 2.15 2.6 5.5 2.4 1.15 4.6 3.5 1.1 T 4.2 1.19 V 3.6 4.5 3.10 4.1 Z 5.4

Mandrea Margone Massone Muro dell’Asino

58 180 90 32

Nago Nembia Noriglio

80 222 314

L’Orrido L’Orto Ottava Meraviglia

332 36 24

Padaro La Panoramica Pezzent Area Le Piazzole Piccola Dallas La Pizzeria Il Posto delle Fragole Promeghin

54 140 166 50 110 114 144 212

Ranzo Red Point Wall Regina del Lago

186 40 64

Sanderland San Siro Santa Massenza Sarche Serrada Sisyphos Spiaggia delle Lucertole Spormaggiore Sunny Place Swing Area

60 196 168 136 324 130 72 296 228 20

Terlago Terra Promessa

278 102

Val d’Algone Val di Cembra Val Lomasone La Vela

232 292 258 272

Zengio del Far Noter

322

Take it easy!

Every monkey climbs a 9b+

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347

without your soul benni hangl, pic: klaus kranebitter

it‘s just metal

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