PHM Autumn 2010

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

AUTUMN EDITION 2010

Contract Services

Outsource your way to better business

Event Preview in-cosmetics Asia

Formulation and Technology

Nanocapsules deliver!

Bugs, plants and business

Colour Management in Cosmetics

skincare Exfoliation, whitening and probiotics

2

autumn 2010

contents AUTUMN EDITION 2010

CONTENTS e...

In

u s s i this

From the Editor

05 Organics with a Price, Ethics with a Bite

Dr Kevin Robinson

This Just In

06 News and Products from the Personal Care Sector

Show Preview

10 Energizing the Asian Beauty Business

Sarah Gibson

Skincare

12 26

12 More Than a Fact of Life Raquel Merino and Miriam Mateu

14 Probiotics and Skincare: A Case Study Sylvie Roquefeuil Dedieu

10 30

16 in-cosmetics Asia Faces Up to Skincare

Dr Alain Khaiat

18 Navigate Your Skin to Radiant Beauty with Chemical Exfoliation

Sarah Burns-Eggenberger

20 The Non-Stop Search for Efficient Whitening

Irene Montaño

Contract Services

24 Effective Outsourcing for Better Business Peter Burrows

32

Formulation

26

Nanocapsulations in Cosmetic Products: An Answer to Your Formulation Problems?

Dr Mojgan Moddaresi

Technology

30 Bugs, Plants and Business Dr Kevin Robinson

Colours and Fragrances

32 Managing Colour in the Cosmetics Industry: The Benefits of Contactless Measurement

12

18 2010 autumn

Reinhard Feld

Last Word 34 Baobab Oil:

A Miracle of Nature

Sandra Wulf

3

Staff

Registered Office:

Editorial

Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591

Sales

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Art

Art Director/Production Paul Andrews paul@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 126

Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day claire@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129

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Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions Circulation Circulation Manager of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do info@via-medialtd.com notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention.

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Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123

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autumn 2010

17.06.09 13:12

From The Editor

Organics with a Price, Ethics with a Bite A recent study shows that cosmetic shoppers rank product performance higher than organic and natural ingredients.

B

etter education

and wholesomeness that

great importance on familiar

leads to better

organic and natural skincare

names. Smaller, lesser known

sales. This seems

brands signify. Because

brands can also succeed by

to be a common

consumers seem to know and

educating organic shoppers

mantra across

understand conventional

about the effectiveness of

many sectors and markets;

cosmetic claims or be more

organic and natural ingredients

but, according to the findings

familiar with the brand names,

as many consumers in the

of a recent US study by market

they tend to favour buying

study indicated a desire for

research firm, Kairos Consumers

them in preference to products

this information,” notes Hoag.

(www.kairosconsumers.com),

labelled as organic or natural.

And I’ll bet they’ll be a lot more

Consequently, there is a

personal care shoppers could

Those consumers buying

interested when the prices

temptation for oil suppliers to

definitely benefit from a little

organic and natural cosmetics

come down, as well.

keep on exploiting sharks.

more time in class! Consumers

admit they don’t know a great

need to be better educated

deal about what constitutes

theme to the extreme, a

both cosmetic firms and

about the effectiveness and

an organic or a natural

new method of analysing

consumers from commercial

product claims of organic and

product. When asked what

squalene and squalane, oils

fraud and will make it possible

natural cosmetics to justify

they believe makes a natural

often used in the production

to promote the production of

paying a premium price,

or organic product appealing

of cosmetics (as an emollient

squalene from olive oil. It will

states the Kairos study, which

to them, cosmetics buyers said

and hydrating agent) and

also allow the origin of squalane

included store audits and

safety and the absence of

vaccines, can show whether

within a finished product to

focus groups. It highlighted

certain ‘negative’ ingredients.

they came originally from the

be determined. Together,

a general lack of knowledge

“Cosmetic shoppers told us they

liver of deepwater sharks or from

this will discourage the illegal

among consumers about the

believe cosmetics are deemed

olives. In 2006, the EU imposed

fishing of deepwater sharks

ingredients in organic and

to be safe when they are free

deep-sea shark fishing limits

and thus contribute towards

natural cosmetics, even though

from ingredients they view to

in the Northeast Atlantic, and

protecting sharks from the threat

they may regularly purchase

be ‘bad,’ such as parabens,

since 2008, some important

of extinction,” says Federica

and are knowledgeable about

dyes and chemicals. They also

cosmetic firms have declared

Camin, who works at the IASMA

organic food. Mind you, the

place great importance on

that they have stopped using

Research and Innovation

questionable benefits of so-

the brand’s reputation in the

shark squalane. Up until now,

Centre, Fondazione Edmund

called organic food is still a

organic or natural marketplace,

however, there has been no way

Mach (San Michele all’Adige,

topic of much ferocious debate,

making brand familiarity an

for manufacturers to determine

Italy) and authored the paper.

so it’s perhaps not particularly

important influencer of cosmetic

whether the squalene or

“This new method could be

surprising that the concepts

decisions,” explains Betsy Hoag,

squalane they are using has

used as an official method of

of “organic” and “natural”

cofounder of Kairos Consumers.

come from sharks or olives. But,

detecting whether any batch of

personal care products are not

“Enormous opportunity exists

a new scientifically validated

squalene or squalane has come

that well understood.

for both manufacturers and

method — published in Rapid

from animal or plant sources,

retailers with established

Communications in Mass

allowing manufactures to make

cosmetics shoppers place a

brands in organics or naturals,

Spectrometry — can now reveal

clear claims about the ethical

greater emphasis on product

as consumers place

the source. Currently, thousands

status of their products,” says

of endangered deepwater

Camin. When comparing ethics

sharks are killed each year to

with organics, I can only hope

supply a cheap source of these

that personal care shoppers

oils, with squalene being the

would choose the former … and

second most sought after raw

that has to be worth paying a

product of sharks after their

little more for, doesn’t it? PHM

The report claims that

performance than the safety

Taking the natural/organic

“Our method will protect

fins. A technique does exist to extract these compounds from vegetable sources, but shark-derived squalene offers a higher yield and requires shorter processing times, therefore involving lower costs.

2010 autumn

For more information

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com.

5

News and Products Product Samples and Unit Dose Application Multipacks

Skincare sample and unit dose packaging, available from J.P. Packaging, solves the complex and often frustrating product handling and dosing issues presented by unique product textures, viscosity, dispensing requirements and brand marketing packaging objectives. Convenient, portable and sanitary product testers, and multipack point-of-use packages, offer accurate, controlled, point-of-application reliability. “Skincare product formulations present a wide range of challenges,” notes John Vandercliff, President of J.P. Packaging. “Viscosities may range from thin, watery solutions to thick, viscous formulations. Individual ingredients — notably oils or micro-inclusions within skincare formulations — often present unique filling and sealing challenges. Fortunately, our experience with machinery, product filling and a broad selection of packaging substrates, enables us to package skincare products in neat, great looking, brand-enhancing, protective packages — without any integrity issues.”

A key element in the packaging of skincare product samples is proper dosing and placement, especially with OTC products. If a packager overfills, underfills or fills product within the seam line, the package may not contain an accurate application or the package integrity may be compromised. Because product should sit comfortably within a secure 360˚ sealing perimeter, J.P. Packaging creates and often modifies the dosing pumps to ensure proper fill volume and placement.

Customized handling and dosing solutions have been developed for packaging formulations that include microdermabrasion beads — the active encapsulated nanoparticle ingredient beads that are incorporated in some skincare products. The tiny, gritty particles that are troublesome to many contract packagers are readily filled by J.P. Packaging in a well-controlled proprietary operation that maintains the product integrity and proper dosing (www.jppkg.com).

Multivitamin Breast Enhancer

The creators of Pupa Cosmetics now offer a clinically proven bust-enhancing product to help customers achieve naturally fuller, firmer, more toned breasts.

This multivitamin-packed cream supports breasts like a natural bra and increases them by up to one cup size in just 8 weeks, making it a dream cream for ‘breastchallenged’ women! From the very first application, Pupa Multivitamin AEF Breast Enhancer Intensive Treatment starts working on the subcutaneous adipose cells, stimulating them to accumulate lipids. After just 15 days of regular treatment, morning and evening, the first results are visible: breasts are rounder, fuller, more even and voluminous. A clinical trial (30 women for 8 weeks) revealed that 93% of the participants agreed that they had rounder breasts, 90% confirmed that their breasts were firmer and more compact, and 97% agreed that their skin felt more supple and nourished. Recommended for anyone who desires more youthful looking breasts, the cream contains Vit-A-Like, Bio-Soy Complex, vitamin E and vitamin F. For more information, visit www.pupa.it.

RPC Llantrisant Confirms its Manufacturing Wisdom

RPC Containers Llantrisant has developed a bespoke plastic bottle to provide Wisdom Toothbrushes with a fresh new appearance for its extended range of mouthwashes. Renowned for more than 200 years for its expertise in toothbrushes, Wisdom wanted to relaunch its complementary range of mouthwash products with an exciting, revitalized look. In addition to two existing flavours, Wisdom Fresh Effect Freshmint and Coolmint, Wisdom is launching two new products, Wisdom Fresh Effect Whitening and Fresh Effect Total Care, using the new container. “The intention was to develop a bottle design that would be unique to Wisdom and offer us the maximum amount of impact and stand-out on shelf,” explains Eleanor Farrant, Marketing Manager at Wisdom. “At the same time, it was vital that the bottle had a larger labelling area for increased communication of the products’ benefits.” As one of Wisdom’s incumbent packaging suppliers, RPC LLantrisant was recommended by the brand’s manufacturing partners as the ideal candidate to devise the new bottle. Blowmoulded in PET, the handy 500 mL size combines tapered sides with a pleasingly curved base for an eye-catching overall effect. After filling, it is closed with a dosing cap and labelled with vivid new designs that highlight the prestigious Wisdom name to its full advantage (www.rpc-llantrisant.co.uk).

6

Marchesini Open House

From 18–22 October, Marchesini will open its doors to customers, the press and anyone who’d like to take a closer look at how the company serves the pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging markets. The Open House event (Pianoro, Italy) will be an opportunity to present Marchesini’s state-of-the-art technology, cutting-edge solutions and novel innovations. Many new products for the packaging of solid and powder products will be on show, including five complete blister lines (MB460, MB451 Evolution, MB430 and Integra 200), a complete counting line and the new MSP560 stickpack filler. In the liquid production area, a robotic “No Contact” syringe line will be displayed, as well as the new FSP5 syringe filler and the Steril 200 vial filler. Dedicated areas will focus on track and trace, robotics and after sales. In all, 15 complete lines and 70 machines will be showcased. Last, but by no means least, the engineering department will illustrate how the company’s widespread foreign network is organized and able to serve every corner of the globe (www.marchesini.com).

autumn 2010

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News Powerful Antiageing Properties

One year after successfully launching its biomimetic TEGO Pep 4-17, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has published further studies to support the peptide’s already established activity. Previously, in-house trials demonstrated that the skin was perceivably smoother when TEGO Pep 4-17 was used. Likewise, the study revealed a reduction in skin roughness and strong skin-firming activity.

Now, further in vivo clinical testing, conducted by Prof.

Krutman from IUF Düsseldorf (Germany), has shown a significant increase in the amount of collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin in the dermis. Thus, TEGO Pep 4-17 is able to boost the most important components of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is an important factor for antiageing products. Another facial antiwrinkle study, done at an independent test institute, verified that this skin-identical peptide improves all kinds of periorbital wrinkles, resulting in superior antiageing efficacy.

This innovative active ingredient is designed for use in antiageing preparations, as well as antiwrinkle eye care products (www.evonik.com).

Vertese Launches “Good Looking” Supplement

After identifying a gap in the market for a vegetarian and vegan-friendly beauty supplement, Vertese, a Brunel Healthcare brand, has launched gelatin-free “Skin, Hair and Eyes” capsules. The brand is renowned for being a pioneer in the supplement market and, true to form, Skin, Hair and Eyes has a completely unique combination of properties. Skin, Hair and Eyes contains the natural antioxidant Lutein, which is widely recognized as a key eye health ingredient. The product is Vertese’s first foray into the lucrative “Beauty from Within” sector and the launch aims to introduce new consumers to the brand.

Vertese Marketing Manager, Lizzie Hardy, explains: “The brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base because of our commitment to using only vegetarian-friendly ingredients. Increasingly, we were hearing from our consumers that they wanted a vegetarian beauty supplement; so, after extensive research, we developed Skin, Hair and Eyes. The product remains true to our vegan credentials but we anticipate that it will attract new consumers to the Vertese range as it is the only product on the market that combines ingredients to help support eye sight, as well as skin and hair.” Visit www.vertese.com for further details.

The Vertese brand has attracted a very loyal consumer base because of our commitment to using only vegetarianfriendly ingredients.

Mascaras Take the Plunge

INTERPOLYMER has added to its Bimodal Technology Platform for the personal care market. SYNTRAN PC 5775 is exclusively designed for water-resistant mascara, eyeliner and colour cosmetic formulations. Its film forming properties provide quick-setting, superior water-resistance, adhesion and flexibility.

INTERPOLYMER’s innovative bimodal technology employs an interpenetrating network of cationic and anionic polymer chains, and SYNTRAN PC 5775 is specifically engineered to deliver enhanced hydrophobic properties for longer-wear formulations. A mascara formulation based on SYNTRAN 5775 demonstrated better resistance to wash-off after water immersion (15 minutes) compared with other film formers. SYNTRAN PC 5775 provides the end-user with a long-lasting water-resistant mascara or eyeliner. It not only reduces smudging and improves the long-lasting effect, but also resists wash-off when in contact with water or tears. The company is also highlighting its newly developed paraben-free grades of SYNTRAN polymers to meet the demands of formulators and maintain global acceptance (www.interpolymer.com).

8

autumn 2010

Botanical Baby Range

Canada’s leading supplier of upscale vanity mirrors and cosmetic bags for nearly 50 years, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd, is proud to be entering the UK with Naturally Baby, their newest addition to the bestselling botanical body care and gift brand, under the Upper Canada Soap banner. With the natural trend taking on greater momentum in the baby, pregnancy and children’s markets, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd anticipates strong results in the UK for the Naturally Baby range, which is being sold in more than 500 retail outlets across the UK in 2010.

“Naturally Baby is a great brand extension of the popular Naturally Upper Canada Range. It provides great value and an ideal gift item,” said Brett Bateman, Managing Director, Danielle Exclusive Creations Ltd UK. Made from all natural, gentle ingredients and free from parabens, mineral oils, SLS and synthetic dyes, Naturally Baby stands out as a competitively priced range with an eco-positioning. A gentle wild mint lime fragrance is subtle and fresh, yet luxurious, but will not irritate baby’s sensitive skin. With five unique SKUs to cover all baby’s needs, the Naturally Baby range has widespread appeal for gift boutiques, independents and ecoretailers alike. The upscale, eye-catching design of the Naturally Baby range boasts soft unisex colours and adorable images, whereas the products are packaged in tinted bottles to accentuate the natural brand positioning and protect the product from sun damage. Well priced and attractive, the Naturally Baby range makes for an ideal gift year-round (http://uppercanadasoap.com).

Advanced Personal Care Materials from Momentive

Momentive Performance Materials (www.momentive.com) has announced two new personal care products: Silsoft AX conditioning agent and Tospearl AQ microspheres. These breakthrough materials, which are available globally, are another example of Momentive’s heritage: almost 70 years of being first to market with technology based solutions that positively impact and improve everyday life. Silsoft AX conditioning agent can help manufacturers of hair care products to offer enhanced sleekness, shine and manageability for hair. In hair care formulations, the molecular structure of Silsoft AX conditioning agent may significantly enhance the smoothness and softness of damaged and undamaged hair, without stickiness or greasiness, while improving colour retention.

Tospearl AQ microspheres can provide a smoother and silkier sensory experience, enhanced blurring of fine lines and wrinkles, and improved rub-in for waterbased skincare formulations, sunscreens, antiageing products and moisturizers.

Stable at low pH, Tospearl AQ microspheres are coated with a cationic polymer.

Because of this coating, the product can be incorporated easily into the water phase of oil-in-water emulsions. “These new products continue Momentive’s tradition of providing powerful new solutions for personal care formulators as they develop the higher-performance products that consumers are demanding,” said Beatriz Blanco, global marketing director, Momentive. “We are committed to putting the best science and advanced research to work for our customers.”

2010 autumn

Outdoor Protection from Beyond Coastal

From the mountains to the ocean, and everywhere in between, Beyond Coastal has developed a range of sun care products for active outdoor lifestyles. With natural ingredients such as grape seed, algae extract, green tea and others, outdoor people need not worry about overly dry or oily skin or suffer the effects of chemical-laden sunscreens with Beyond Coastal. The company’s Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is water resistant and won’t sting the eyes. It protects, nourishes, repairs and hydrates. Containing antioxidant and antiageing ingredients, Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen is formulated in accordance with the Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standard and the EWG’s Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, guaranteeing a clean healthy sunscreen. Active Daily 30 SPF is specifically designed for high sun exposure activities with maximum UVA protection. It’s fast absorbing, non-greasy and water-resistant.

Provitamin B, shea butter and rose hip oil moisturize and help to maintain skin cell balance. Natural antioxidants from yerba mate, green tea and algae extract scavenge free radicals and restore skin tone. Beyond Coastal also offers a Kids Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen for children with sensitive skin. With an SPF rating of 30 and naturally active Zn and Ti, Kids Natural provides powerful UVA protection. Extra shea and cocoa butter help to keep your children’s skin smooth and soft and aloe, comfrey, grape seed and green tea are natural antioxidant skin restorers. It’s also fragrance-, oil- and paraben-free. Finally, Beyond Coastal’s all natural broadspectrum lip balm offers powerful UVA protection with micronized zinc oxide. Hydrating beeswax moisturizes the lips, keeping them naturally soft, smooth and young (www.beyondcoastal.com).

With an extensive marketing programme, we are confident we will get consumers’ attention and interest nationwide.

9

Show Preview

Energizing the Asian Beauty Business T in-cosmetics Asia gears up for its most spectacular event yet! he cosmetics and

The antiageing phenomenon

toiletries market

also continues to gather

in Asia is set to

momentum, with the worldwide

grow 16% by 2012.

market expected to reach $115.5

With the continent

billion by the end of 2010, and

being home to half of the world’s

Asia-Pacific is a big contributor

population, and boasting a

to this. Dr Helen Knaggs from Nu

sustained economic growth rate,

Skin, Dr Panvipa Krisdaphong,

there is — naturally — huge scope

Director at Dermscan Asia, Dr Liki

for development in this area. With

von Oppen-Bezalel, VP Business

that in mind, there couldn’t be

Development and Marketing

a better time for the continent’s

at IBR Ltd and Dr Gilles Pauly,

leading personal care ingredients

Scientific Director at Laboratoires

exhibition to stage its return to

Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia,

mix of prestige and mass market

Sérobiologiques, will look at

one of the hubs of the Asian

Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan

beauty and grooming products

approaches to the issue of

cosmetics industry. Promising to

and Thailand, all highlighting the

sourced by Mintel, enabling

antiageing. Fair and flawless

be the most exciting event in its

very latest Asian developments.

visitors to quickly identify the

skin is a number one priority for

3-year history, in-cosmetics Asia

With visitor registration already

major industry launches. Daily

Asians. However, pollution and

will take place on 2–4 November

up 58% on the 2009 event, there

demonstrations by Mintel will also

humidity in Asia has aggravated

at BITEC, Bangkok, with more

is sure to be plenty of business

be part of the feature. Facial

skin problems for many people,

than 200 leading cosmetics

activity and interaction.

beauty is one of the hottest topics

meaning the demand for

suppliers set to showcase a

in-cosmetics Asia will also

on the Asian skincare industry

medicated skincare and antiacne

spectacular range of new and

deliver its best ever educational

agenda and will play a pivotal

treatments has soared. Experts

innovative cosmetic ingredients

programme, featuring a new

role at the show this year. The

presenting in this strand will

and services to R&D, production

Innovation Zone, the Facial

Facial Beauty Conference, held

include Dr Simon Young, Director

and marketing specialists. To

Beauty Conference, Regulation

during the second day of the

of Regulatory and External Affairs

highlight the importance of the

and Formulation workshops,

exhibition, will see renowned

at Unilever Asia, Dr Alain Khaiat,

event, major industry players will

Marketing Trends Presentations

international specialists present

President of Seers Consulting

have a presence at this year’s

and Innovation Seminars,

on topics in three key areas:

and Prof. Dr Johann W. Wiechers,

event, including Cognis, Croda,

providing an unmissable

skin whitening, antiageing and

President of JW Solutions.

Dow Corning, DSM and ISP

opportunity for visitors to enhance

antiacne. Skin whitening is an

Asia Pacific. In addition, 41 new

their commercial, scientific and

extremely profitable sector in Asia.

exhibitors will also be making

marketing knowledge.

Worth an estimated $18 billion on

Regulate and Formulate

the continent alone, the industry

There will be a series of theoretical

has been rapidly accelerating

and practical workshops at

the fact that Thailand’s cosmetic

Unique Visitor Attractions

since the 1970s, providing huge

in-cosmetics Asia this year, delving

manufacturers import 90% of their

For the first time this year, the

commercial opportunities for

into two of the industry’s hottest

ingredients will include Breko,

show will have an entire section

global cosmetic manufacturers

topics: regulations and formulation.

Cobiosa, Green Flower Cosmetics

dedicated to the industry’s

to profit from the trend. Speakers

Following the launch of the new EU

and CP Kelco, to name a few.

most cutting-edge products.

presenting at the Conference will

Cosmetics Regulation, cofounder

The Innovation Zone will house

include Dr Nopadon, President

and president of Biorius, Jean-

international exhibitors from more

the latest ingredient launches

of the Thailand Dermatology

Jacques Bourgois will address

than 21 countries, there will also

from the likes of Bioland, Croda,

Society, Fabrice Perin, Director

“Regulations for Exporting to

be a strong regional presence

Mibelle Biochemistry, Lubrizol,

at Spincontrol Asia and Romuald

Europe,” whereas Prof. Dr Johann

at in-cosmetics Asia, including

Regeron, Thor (represented by

Vallee, Scientific and Industrial

Wiechers will examine “Basic and

companies from China, Hong

Chemico) and IRB, as well as a

Manager at Codif International.

Advanced Formulation.” Jean-

their debut at the show. First-time exhibitors keen to capitalize on

In addition to a host of

10

autumn 2010

Jacques will explore the key issues

Muslim Consumer” by Ogilvy,

that Asian exporters must address

“Antiageing in Japan” from

by examining an in-depth study of

Hinako Sugioka Israel of Mintel,

ISO GMP Standards, which gives

“Halal Cosmetics: Embracing

guidelines for the production,

Universal Values” by Darhim

control, storage and shipment of

Hashim of the Halal Integrity

cosmetic products. Meanwhile,

Alliance and a presentation

“HLB in Action: Theory and Practice

on the marketing opportunities

of Stabilizing Topical Formulations”

opened up by the China-ASEAN

will be critical for those keen to

Free Trade Agreement from

master physical stability — one of

Access Asia. Those keen to

the fundamental principals behind

discover more about the latest

cosmetic formulation. “Effective

ingredients and formulation

Formulating Beyond HLB: Advance

techniques can do so at the

Level” will teach delegates how

Innovation Seminars. All 21 slots

to optimize the physical stability,

have already been filled by the

sensory characteristics and active

likes of Rhodia Asia, presenting

skin delivery of a formulation all

on “Efficient Rheology Control

at once.

for Cleansing Formulations,” DSM

The comprehensive

Nutritional Products highlighting

educational programme will

“A Multifunctional Approach

also include another highly

to Skin Lightening” and Indena

popular feature, the Marketing

looking at “Zanthelene: A Novel

Trends Presentations. This year’s

Lifting Agent” … and many more.

agenda will feature three

in-cosmetics Asia attracts

and technical knowledge.

Attendees will benefit from all the

streams: trends, country focus

leading ingredient and raw

major players being under one

and practical advice, with

material suppliers, enabling

roof and meeting with experts

highlights including “Natural

visitors to discover new, innovative

whilst discussing the next big

Trends and Sustainability” from

products and services whilst

trends in the growing personal

Kline, “Brands, Islam and the New

boosting their business, scientific

care market. PHM

For more information

in-cosmetics Asia 2–4 November 2010 BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand. www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

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•

Glockengießerwall 3 • D-20095 Hamburg • Phone +49 (0) 40/3 20 11-0 • www.cremer-care.com

Skincare

More Than

a Fact

of Life The modern-day cosmetic industry specializes in a wide variety of skincare strategies, using a large number of facial care ingredients to tackle a whole gamut of cosmetic functionalities, from acne, skin brightening and firming to DNA damage … to name but a few. One of the most common and premature signs of ageing, in both women and men, is expression wrinkles; solutions to this side-effect of age continue to drive innovation in the sector, offering new launches every year and remaining a highly popular focus in the antiageing market.

A

Figure 1: Mechanisms of action of Lipotec’s antwrinkle actives.

ppearing earlier

its first peptide specifically

programme that has focused,

commitment to innovation,

on the face than

designed to attenuate expression

at the cellular level, at both pre-

and its continued investment in

other types of

lines, stimulating the market

and post-synaptic activity and

sustained R&D.

wrinkle — in people

and promoting research into

a wide range of science-based

as young as 30 —

alternative solutions. That launch,

actives that target different

could be a reason why expression

although significant, is clearly

aspects of muscle contraction,

A Particular Type of Wrinkle

lines are a key target for the

not the only reason behind

the fundamental origin of this

Expression wrinkles or mimic

cosmetic industry. Consumer

the company’s pioneering

premature ageing sign. The

lines such as frown lines and

research suggests that antiageing

status in this field. Important

concept of molecular cosmetics

crow’s feet are formed by

is no longer just a concern for

technological advances have

has been used to identify the

the constant action of the

middle-aged consumers looking

yielded further innovative

independent mechanisms that

corresponding facial muscle,

to reverse the effects of time,

discoveries, specifically designed

lead to the muscle relaxation

as a result of blinking, smiling or

younger people are also seeking

to diminish this unpleasant sign

required to attenuate expression

frowning. They are a natural part

preventive, age-defying solutions

of ageing. Rapid improvements

wrinkles. It has not been an easy

of ageing. As you grow older,

(Mintel, 2010).1

in wrinkle reduction have been

undertaking and would not

your skin gets thinner, drier and

It has been a long and fruitful

supported by an integrated

have been possible without the

less elastic … and it becomes

journey since Lipotec introduced

research and development

company’s inherent and strong

more susceptible to damage.

Keeping Up with Innovation

The cosmetic industry is, inherently, one of the most energetic; even so, it appears to be gathering pace and developing even faster these days.

Lipotec, as a company committed to innovation, is delighted to be attending in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok and presenting the latest improvements to its wide range of molecular actives. Owing to its proven efficacy to increase cell tolerance against daily stressors, such as UV radiation, extreme temperatures or jet-lag, to name but a few, Thermostressine will definitely be a key ingredient in the fight for stress-free skin at this year’s event. Lipotec’s team, supported by its distribution partners, will be pleased to meet you at the exhibition, update you about this new launch and discuss other approaches that keep Lipotec at the forefront of antiageing technology. As with Inyline, the cosmetic ingredient designed to safely induce post-synaptic muscle relaxation, this molecular active will be also be discussed in the “Two Complementary Synaptic Mechanisms Targeting Expression Lines” innovation seminar (2 November at 12:00). Please visit Stand D40 for more information (www.lipotec.com).

12

autumn 2010

As a result, wrinkles, lines and creases form in your skin. With time, and exacerbated by unhealthy habits and/or external stressors, these lines progressively become permanent. Because of how they form, the age at which they appear and the facial area in which they develop, the treatment of expression wrinkles required an exacting scientific approach. Any reliable cosmetic solution, therefore, had to target the origin — the muscle contraction mechanism.

Independent but combinable strategies Muscle contraction involves both a motor neuron, a neuromuscular junction (NMJ) — where the axons of motor nerves meet the muscle, thus transmitting messages from the brain that cause the muscle to contract and relax — and the associated muscle fibre. Whereas the motor neuron contributes to the presynaptic pathway by releasing the neurotransmitter, acetylcholine (ACh), the postsynaptic muscle fibre — with ACh receptors (AChR) on its surface — binds the neurotransmitter, which creates an action potential that leads to muscle contraction. Lipotec’s expertise on this field has provided the cosmetic industry with cutting-edge muscle relaxation solutions to attenuate expression

Molecular cosmetics is about scientific rigor and committed research, using rigorous techniques and approaches to treat and prevent a specific target with an innovative range of molecular actives.

wrinkles using independent but

formulation. The additional value for manufacturers is that

combinatorial chemistry-based

a combination of the three

research effort, supported by

peptides is entirely feasible. After

the most advanced techniques

using a solution comprising 5%

and methods — such as

Argireline and 5% Leuphasyl,

high-throughput screening or

a mean decrease of 24.62% —

molecular modelling — were

reaching a maximum of 46.53%

used, depending on the

— was observed, confirming in

mechanism of interest. What

vivo the combined effects of the

should be common to all claims

individual treatments.

is what the skin actually requires:

Inyline works post-synaptically,

that act safely on a specific

released from motor neuron but

type of line or wrinkle to prevent

before the signal is transmitted

them becoming indelible. Both

to the AChRs. Its antiwrinkle

presynaptic and post-synaptic

efficacy was trialled with a

approaches have been shown

cream (5% Inyline solution) and

to reliably attenuate expression

showed a significant decrease

wrinkles, by inhibiting the release

in wrinkle depth of 14.9% after

of ACh or preventing it from

28 days of treatment. Inyline, a

binding to its receptors on the

novel hexapeptide designed

muscle fibre, so impeding muscle

using molecular modelling,

contraction. The high level of

reduces the activation of MuSK

efficacy of the molecular actives

(Muscle-Specific Kinase) by

involved confirms their ability

blocking the agrin binding

to target wrinkle formation,

site. As such, it disrupts

both independently and in

AChR clustering, one of the

combination. It is an example of

requirements for ACh to trigger

a molecular cosmetic approach

the contraction signal along

to reduce the depth of a

the NMJ. Not only does Inyline

common sign of ageing. PHM

represent a post-synaptic

combinable strategies.

a position in the SNARE complex,

strategy to minimize the

•P resynaptically, using actives

an essential step for synaptic ACh

formation of expression lines by

that inhibit the release of

release. Consequently, as the

targeting a specific biological

ACh from the motor neuron

vesicle is unable to release ACh

mechanism, it’s also another

(Argireline, SNAP-8 or Leuphasyl)

from the motor neuron, muscle

example of why Lipotec is a

contraction is attenuated. An

genuine ally in the fight against

designed to prevent the

in vivo trial showed a decrease

premature skin ageing (Figure 1).

ligand-to-receptor (ACh–AChR)

in furrow depth of 16.26% after

binding responsible for the

30 days of treatment with a

Conclusion

formation of the action

cream containing a 5% Argireline

From concept to full product

potential (Inyline).

solution.

market placement, Lipotec’s

•P ost-synaptically, using actives

Designed to mimic the

Recognized to modulate

approach to expression

N-terminal end of SNAP-25,

vesicle fusion with the cellular

wrinkle treatment is an integral

a protein that plays a key

membrane by closing the

process that brings a variety of

role in muscle stimulation,

calcium channels, Leuphasyl

independent but combinable

Argireline and SNAP-8 both act

also demonstrated good in vivo

cosmetic actives together

presynaptically to compete with

results, reducing wrinkles by an

to target different aspects of

the naturally occurring protein for

average of 11.64% with a 5%

muscle contraction. A global

2010 autumn

genuinely active ingredients

acting once ACh has been

Reference

1. Mintel, Skincare: Facial Care (March 2010).

For more information

Raquel Merino, Marketing and Communication, and Míriam Mateu, Documentation Lipotec Isaac Peral, 17 E-08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain.

Tel. +34 9 3638 8000 commercial@lipotec.com www.lipotec.com Argireline ® and Leuphasyl ® are registered trademarks, and Inyline™ is a trademark, of Lipotec SA (Spain).

13

Skincare

Probiotics and Skincare A Case Study Probiotic Lacidofil reduces the severity of atopic dermatitis and shows a corticosteroid-sparing effect in young children.

A

randomized

to 2 billion probiotic bacteria)

placebo-

of Lacidofil — a combination

controlled trial has

of Lactobacillus Rosell-11 and

demonstrated the

Lactobacillus Rosell-52 — for one

synergistic effect

month. The other 28 children

of Institut Rosell-Lallemand’s

received a placebo. The extent

probiotic preparation, Lacidofil,

and severity of AD was evaluated

more patients treated with

and emollient treatment on

using the SCORAD Index and

Lacidofil achieved satisfactory

on a combination of auxiliary

young children with atopic

immunological parameters were

clinical results with fewer

basic therapy, anti-inflammatory

dermatitis (AD) and cow milk

also assessed at day 0 and 30.1

episodes of the use of topical

preparations and the identification

corticosteroids than those who

and elimination of inducing factors

allergy. This clinical study,

When compared with the

conducted by Dr Chernyshov

placebo group, the probiotic

received a placebo. It was shown

whenever possible. Common

(National Medical University,

treatment induced

that the probiotic preparation

treatments include the regular use

Kiev, Ukraine) showed a

• a marked reduction of AD

had a synergistic effect with

of emollients (moisturizers) and

significant effect of the probiotic

severity (SCORAD index) in

the emollient, reducing AD

topical steroids. AD strongly affects

treatment on AD severity and

63.3% of children compared

severity and reinforcing its

the Quality of Life of patients and

the use of corticosteroids.

with 32.1% (p = 0.02)

corticosteroid-sparing effect. The

their family. Until now, data about

synergistic action of Lacidofil-

probiotic efficiency in AD patients

Moreover, immunological

• a steroid-sparing effect (10% of

studies showed the probiotic to

children used a steroid cream

plus-emollient was also confirmed

were disparate. In a recent

have an immunomodulating

compared with 32% in the

by immunologic changes that

meta-analysis of ten randomized

effect, indicating a shift towards

placebo group)

may be considered to be a shift

controlled trials, probiotics were

to immune tolerance. Emollients

found to reduce the severity of AD

immune tolerance in allergic

• community a significant

patients. These results reinforce a

reduction of AD severity in

and probiotics have different

in approximately half of the trials

previous study that demonstrated

patients who did not use the

modes of action and could be

evaluated.2 PHM

Lacidofil’s ability to reduce AD

topical steroid (SCORAD index

combined with each other and

severity and improve Quality of

from 30.6–20.9; p>0.01 in the

with other medications in AD

Life indices in young patients and

probiotic group, no significant

patients. Solutions with potential

their parents. Atopic dermatitis

difference in the placebo

steroid-sparing effects in AD

group)

patients are extremely important.”

has become a widespread health concern affecting as many as

• a significant decrease in a

Atopic Dermatitis (AD) or atopic

20% of preschool children and

certain subset of activated T

eczema is an inflammatory,

about one in 20 adults. The

cells, potentially associated

chronically relapsing, non-

randomized study involved 58

with AD

contagious and pruritic skin

children under the age of 4 with

• an increase of a subtype of

disorder. It is a very common

atopic dermatitis and cow milk

antibodies directed against

condition that represents a major

allergy. All the children were

cow milk allergen (IgG4),

public health problem worldwide.

treated with an emollient cream

considered to be a marker for

Its prevalence has markedly

and a bath preparation. In

immune-tolerance.

increased during the past decade

addition, 30 children received a

The investigators of the trial

and it is considered to affect as

once-daily capsule (equivalent

concluded that: “In our study,

many as 20% of preschool children

References

1. P.V. Chernyshov, “Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial on Clinical and Immunologic Effects of Probiotic Containing Lactobacillus rhamnosus R0011 and L. helveticus R0052 in Infants with Atopic Dermatitis,” Microb. Ecol. Health Dis. 21(3–4), 228–232 (2009).

2. S.K. Michail, et al., “Efficacy of Probiotics in the Treatment of Pediatric Atopic Dermatitis: A Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials,” Ann. Allergy Asthma Immunol. 101(5), 508–516 (2008).

in Western Europe. One in three children with AD will retain the condition in adult life. An estimated one in 20 adults has AD. There is no absolutely efficient treatment.

According to the International Consensus Conference on Atopic Dermatitis (ICCAD II), treatment of a patient with AD is based

14

For more information

Sylvie Roquefeuil Dedieu Press Officer Institut Rosell-Lallemand Tel. +33 6 8472 7610 sroquefeuil-dedieu@rosell.com www.institut-rosell-lallemand.com

autumn 2010

Skincare

in-cosmetics Asia Faces Up to Skincare Facial beauty is a lucrative business in Asia. Appearance has become a particularly important concern for Thais of both genders and of all age segments, with society favouring the fair and flawless look. The increasing number of dermatological clinics, particularly in urban regions, is testament to this growing trend, with consumers being more than willing to spend their disposable income on treatments and high-end skincare products.

B Alain Khaiat

Antiacne Presentation

Alain Khaiat will be presenting on The Physiology of Acne at the in-cosmetics Asia Facial Beauty Conference on 3 November at 16:55–17:25. The show takes place on 2–4 November at BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand. Visit www.in-cosmeticsasia.com for more details.

ut it’s not just the

DHT stimulates the sebaceous

(BPO), salicylic acid and sulphur

cosmetic angle that

gland to release sebum, which

being among the more common

Thais are devoting

leads to oily skin. The sebum is a

ones. However, as these are

so much of their time

mixture of triglycerides that are

antibacterial actives, it means

and effort to recreate.

hydrolysed into free fatty acids

that the regulators have only

The pollution and humid weather

(FFA) of lower viscosity. One of the

considered one aspect of acne

conditions in South and South

hypotheses suggested some time

physiology; the consequences as

East Asia have long been the

ago was that triglycerides acted

opposed to the cause.

cause of many an aggravated

as the feedback mechanism by

skin problem for Asian consumers,

regulating the oil secretion. As

tend to address other aspects

meaning a high proportion of

such, the more hydrolysis that takes

of the cycle, leading to more

the population now suffers from

place, the less feedback and,

efficient, milder products that have

acne and demand for medicated

thereby, the more sebum secretion

a better compatibility with the skin.

skincare and antiacne treatments

and excretion there is. The excess

Most will combine salicylic acid

has soared. In 2009, the Asia-

oil sticks dead skin cells and the

(which is oil soluble) and benefits

Pacific market for these products

pilosebaceous walls together,

from anti-inflammatory ingredients.

was worth approximately $119.5

creating a plug and enlarging the

These usually enable the lesion

million — according to Euromonitor

pore. If the pore remains open, the

to disappear in one to three

International — and this is

cells and the sebum will oxidize to

days of continuous treatment,

predicted to rise by more than 17%

give a black colour. This is known as

rather than seven to ten days with

to a140.4 million by 2014. But what

a blackhead or open comedone.

antibacterial products alone. Acne

is the root cause of this problem?

If a membrane of skin closes the

is not a simple microinfection. It

Acne is a skin condition that

pore, it is known as a whitehead or

is a complex mechanism that

affects 90% of teenagers around

a closed comedone.

starts with an increase in sebum

the world. It can be categorized

Dr Alain Khaiat, PhD President of Seers Consulting info@seersconsulting.com www.seersconsulting.com

16

production. Today, only about

into three types — mild, moderate

oil creates the ideal environment

10 –20% of people with acne

and severe — depending on the

for bacteria — Propionibacterium

use products in an attempt

severity of the visible skin lesions.

acnes — to grow and reproduce.

to cure it, with most resorting

Acne vulgaris is a condition

The bacterial lipases further

to physically squeezing the

affecting the pilosebaceous unit.

hydrolyse the sebum and

pimples. Many people think this

It is an inflammatory disorder of

increase secretion, whilst the

is the result of an inadequate

the sebaceous gland that results

acidity of the free fatty acids

product offering, with many

in comedones, papules, pustules

leads to inflammation. This

solutions reported as creating

and occasional nodules.

inflammation creates free radicals

dryness and irritation. Inevitably,

that increase hyperkeratinization

research amongst teenagers

there is a burst of hormone

and, in turn, help bacterial

confirms they want the problem

activity. Testosterone plays an

proliferation. In countries where

to disappear overnight without

important role, being reduced

acne products are regulated as

the associated dryness or

into dihydrotestosterone [DHT] by

drugs, there is often an approved

redness, so that is the next

an enzyme — 5-alpha reductase

list of ingredients that can be

challenge for the global

— in the sebaceous gland.

used, with benzoyl peroxide

cosmetics industry. PHM

It begins during puberty when

For more information

The mixture of dead cells and

Conversely, modern products

autumn 2010

Skincare

Navigate Your Skin to Radiant Beauty with Chemical Exfoliation Would you like a healthy glow, softened fine lines and reduced wrinkles? Does an even tone, softer,

smoother skin, softened sunspots and/or controlled oil production and breakouts sound appealing?

Without embellishment, these are the results of a programme consisting of chemical exfoliation treatments and homecare products: the application of science-created ingredients called alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids that loosen intercellular bonds and promote the release of dead skin cells.

T

he natural

acid is a universal ingredient

is often used as a combination

exfoliation. Just as important as

desquamation

and has a broad range of uses.

treatment. TCA causes protein

the acid percentage is the pH

process creates

It has a low molecular weight

coagulation and will minimize

level. The lower the pH of the

new skin cells at

of 76 daltons that results in rapid

rhytides, hyperpigmentation,

chemical exfoliant, the higher

the basal level

absorption. Lactic acid will

uneven texture and acne scars.

the free acid amount that can

and, as these skin cells age,

reduce corneocyte cohesion in

they navigate to the top of

the stratum corneum, leading

classified by their depth of

low pH include irritation and

the epidermis and then shed

to reduced trans-epidermal

penetration into the skin, ranging

erythema. When formulating,

away. The normal cell cycle

water loss (TEWL), a more even

from light, more superficial

careful consideration is required

ranges from 26–42 days. This

distribution of melanocytes

treatments to advanced

to create a product that has a

process functions effortlessly

and increased epidermal

exfoliation, depending on the

low enough pH for penetration

during the initial decades of

thickening. Salicylic acid is

skin’s specific needs. There are

but results in minimal irritation to

life; but, as we age, the process

lipophilic; it will penetrate the

multiple ways to individualize

the client. In general, the pH of

becomes delinquent and

skin through the pore and

a programme and make a

a professional peel will be in the

needs assistance. Chemical

then digest the debris and oil

treatment more or less aggressive

range of 1–2.5.

exfoliation is the equivalent of a

present in the follicle. It is also

to best suit each client. The

cellular jumpstart — recreating

an antibacterial acid, making

beauty therapist has the ability to

beauty therapist has many

the ideal skin renewal process.

it beneficial for hyperkeratosis,

design a customized programme

opportunities to customize the

The most widely recognized

acne, rosacea, oily and textured/

to foster the results that best

procedure. Lactic and glycolic

alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids

rough skin. Modified Jessner

align with the client’s lifestyle

acid are monitored according

are lactic, glycolic, salicylic,

is a chemical exfoliant that is

and needs. There are many

to the length of time they’re on

Modified Jessner and TCA

named after a New York-based

factors to be considered with

the skin whereas salicylic acid,

(trichloroacetic acid). These

dermatologist who advocated

chemical exfoliation treatment.

Modified Jessner and TCA are

acids will cause superficial

the use of 14% lactic acid,

These factors will determine

applied in layers. To increase

skin cells to desquamate at an

salicylic acid and resorcinol as a

the outcome of the treatment,

intensity, the peels can be left

increased rate and will normalize

treatment for oily skin, acne and

the overall performance

for longer on the skin or applied

the exuviation process. Glycolic

hyperpigmentation fine lines. It

and depth of the chemical

in multiple layers. More abrasive

Chemical exfoliants are

penetrate. Side-effects of a

During the treatment, the

Finishing Touches

Exfoliation treatments can be enhanced with the use of an end-stage serum.

• gloSuper Serum: antiageing benefits with 1% retinol • gloRenew: 1% retinol, 7% glycolic and 2% salicylic acid to moderately increases exfoliation • gloRetinol CS: 3% retinol to aggressively increase exfoliation • gloLightening Serum: 2% hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation • gloBrightening Serum: a natural alternative for hyperpigmentation • gloTriple Action Serum: 2% hydroquinone, 1% retinol, 1% glycolic acid for hyperpigmentation.

18

autumn 2010

applicators and increased

Skin conditioning will create a

After treatment, the skin

pressure will enhance circulation

more uniform peel and allow

goes through a rejuvenation

supports the research behind

and promote deeper absorption.

the acid to reach a deeper level

period requiring products

chemical exfoliation.

A “peel prep” should be used

of exfoliation. The intangible

that are healing and provide

prior to the chemical exfoliation

assets of skin prepping provide

nourishment. These essential

In Conclusion

process to degrease the skin.

the beauty therapist with a

products will optimize the

Chemical exfoliation has

Varying prep options include

preview of how the client’s

rejuvenation process by

benefited from the adoption

the use of citric, cholic and

skin will respond to chemical

nourishing and healing the skin.

of advances in chemistry and

gallic acid to reduce sebum

exfoliation. If the client has a

The client should keep their

formulation technologies.

and break up oil — or glycolic

lot of skin sloughing, then the

skin cool and soothed during

Scientists now have the ability to

acid at 30% to make a treatment

beauty therapist will be more

the healing process. The use

formulate products with broader

more aggressive. After applying

cautious with the treatment. If

of growth factors will support

solubility parameters and

the chemical exfoliant, retinol

the client has minimal response,

the skin and provide healing

include additional ingredients

or retinoic acid may be used to

the beauty therapist can then

benefits. Chemical exfoliation

that offer therapeutic benefits.

increase intensity. Typically, this

be more aggressive with the

creates a dermatological impact

Further progression down this

will cause skin sloughing because

treatment. Adherence to home

and has a profound effect on

path will result in advanced

vitamin A stimulates cell renewal.

therapy and treatments will

the structure of the skin. It is

formulas that are more than just

You can customize the end of the

yield optimal results. Similar to a

often useful to take a ‘before

simple exfoliators. PHM

treatment with any of a number

weight loss programme, wherein

and after’ picture to document

of serums, depending on the

a workout regimen paired with

the improvements and show

skin’s needs. Apply the serum

healthy eating will help to shift

the client the transformation in

that is best suited to the client to

the pounds, without adherence

stages. To show the progression,

enhance the results (see sidebar).

to both aspects, the goal will not

take pictures at 3-, 6- and

be achieved as quickly. Thus, a

12-month increments. The results

Homecare Products

series of positive acts involving

will demonstrate the effect of the

For optimal results, prepare the

products and treatments will

process and the client will soon

skin with exfoliants at least 2–4

bring the client to his or her

become an apostle of chemical

weeks prior to the first treatment.

skincare end-result sooner.

exfoliation. Plus, a significant

amount of anecdotal evidence

For more information

Sarah Burns-Eggenberger Creator and Brand Manager of glotherapeutics at gloProfessional Tel. +1 303 892 8276 (US) Tel. +44 800 121 8116 (UK) info@glotherapeutics.com www.gloprofessional.com

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Skincare

The Non-Stop Search for

Efficient Whitening Nowadays, what every woman wants is a complexion of pure porcelain. There is an ongoing consumer trend to brighten the skin to give it a more even tone. Furthermore, skin lightening is considered to be an antiageing facet of skincare. In Asia, there is significant demand for whitening products to either lighten the skin complexion generally or to adjust variations in pigmentation. For Caucasian skin, whitening products are used to treat age spots or other forms of hyperpigmentation, such as freckles or darkly pigmented scars.

Pigmentation Process

and to inhibit the stimulation

an indirect antioxidant.2 Direct

Indirect antioxidants turn on the

of melanocyte dendricity. This

antioxidants, such as vitamins C

expression of a series of genes that

The pathway from exposure to

could be achieved by interfering

and E, can neutralize an oxidant

code for cytoprotective proteins.

UV light to pigmentation is very

with the binding of keratinocyte

once and then need to be

These proteins are enzymes that

complex and contains many steps.

mediators to their receptors on the

replenished by other antioxidants.

synthesize or regenerate a lot of

UV light leads to the generation of

melanocytes or by inhibiting the

reactive oxidants in keratinocyte

production of these mediators.

cells that, in turn, release

With age spots, two types

inflammatory mediators such as

of pigments are present, the

prostaglandins, nitric oxide (NO)

melanins and lipofuscin. They are

and α-melanocyte-stimulating

overproduced in the spot area

hormone (α-MSH). There are

because of an overreaction to

receptors for both prostaglandins

UV radiation. In keratinocytes, UV

and α-MSH on melanocyte cells

light leads to the generation of

and a lot of research has been

free radicals and reactive oxygen

done on a specific receptor for

species that eventually leads

α-MSH called melanocortin 1

to the oxidation of proteins and

receptor (MC1R). After binding

lipids. Oxidized proteins and lipids

with α-MSH, the receptor induces

form insoluble, darkly pigmented

its host melanocyte to promote

complexes called lipofuscin.

the expression of the tyrosinase

The accumulation of oxidized

gene and to enhance dendricity.

proteins, and thus lipofuscin

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting

formation, is normally prevented

enzyme in the synthesis of melanin

by the proteasome system. It

pigments. Melanin is produced

is a complex of proteases that

in specialized organelles, called

specifically recognizes damaged

melanosomes, which are gradually

proteins and then degrades them

filled with pigments, transported

completely. But, proteasome

to the peripheral dendrite tips and

activity is known to decline with

then transferred to the surrounding

advancing age, explaining why

keratinocytes. There, melanosomes

uneven pigmentation is a typical

form a protective shield around the

symptom of old age.1 The cosmetic

cell nucleus, producing a uniform

approach to fading or hiding age

skin colour.

spots is to use whitening products

In the past, unwanted

Figure 1: Effect of SulforaWhite on the expression of antioxidant enzymes. The expression of NADPH:quinone reductase 1 (NQO1), heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1) and thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1) was measured using real-time PCR.

that are only applied to the spot

pigmentation was treated by

area. Chemical peels give more

using actives that inhibited or

obvious results but, if not solely

reduced the enzymatic activity

applied to the spot area, the

of tyrosinase. The whitening

fading effect is minimal because

actives marketed today interfere

the bleaching will whiten the whole

at different stages of the

facial area.

pigmentation cascade. A new series of actives was introduced

Naturally Effective

that reportedly blocked the

Sulforaphane is a plant substance

transfer of melanosomes to the

belonging to the isothiocyanate

keratinocytes. Another efficient

group. Isothiocyanates are sulphur-

way to suppress pigmentation

containing chemicals that are

would be to block the upregulation

characteristic of the Brassicaceae

of the expression of tyrosinase

family. Sulforaphane works as

20

Figure 2: Inhibition of melanin production in B-16 melanocytes.

autumn 2010

different direct antioxidants. In

Genistein is a well-known natural

skin. Therefore, genistein inhibits

cress sprouts, for example, the

inhibitor of tyrosine kinase,

the effects of SCF and — probably

has a major role in the reduction

sulforaphane concentration is

which is reported to be located

— ET-1 as well on melanocytes.

of lipid peroxides and of free

20–50 times higher than in mature

on the intracellular side of the

Delentigo activity takes place

vegetables. Four to five day old

stem cell factor (SCF) receptor.3

exclusively in the spot area without

The keratinocytes were grown in

garden cress sprouts were used as

There are also reports of the

provoking a bleach effect on the

standard growth medium to 80%

the raw material to produce the

involvement of tyrosine kinase

adjacent skin.

confluence. Then, the cells were

commercially available ingredient,

in ET-1 (enthothelin-1) signalling.

SulforaWhite.

The messenger molecules ET-1

Study Results

0.2% SulforaWhite. After incubation,

and SCF are known to be highly

Expression of antioxidant enzymes:

the cells were harvested and total

cosmetic ingredient that combines

overproduced in age spot

The capacity of SulforaWhite

RNA was extracted. Compared

an aqueous cress sprout extract

areas.4 This explains the high

to promote the expression of

with the untreated control, the

and the soy isoflavone, genistein,

melanin content compared with

antioxidant enzymes was analysed

antioxidant enzyme NQO1 was

was developed (Delentigo).

neighbouring, normally pigmented

in vitro using normal human

moderately stimulated at 0.05%

epidermal keratinocytes. The

and strongly stimulated at 0.2%

method of real-time polymerase

SulforaWhite (Figure 1). HO-1 and

chain reaction (PCR) was used

TrxR1 were both stimulated strongly,

to measure the expression

even at the lower SulforaWhite

of selected genes. Several

concentration. The enzyme GPX1

antioxidant enzymes were chosen

did not respond to SulforaWhite in

as representatives of Phase II

this trial.

(carcinogen defence) enzymes.

Inhibition of melanin production:

To distinctively treat age spots, a

In an in vitro study conducted on

(NQO1) is a major

melanocytes, the garden cress

anticarcinogenic enzyme

sprout extract was shown to inhibit

with a principal role in

melanin formation. Specific cells

transforming quinones into stable

(B-16 melanocytes) were cultivated

hydroquinones.

with NDP-MSH, a stable derivative

• Heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1)

2010 autumn

hydrogen peroxide.

incubated for 24 hours with 0.05 or

• NADPH:quinone reductase 1

Figure 3: In vivo test results. Skin whitening was determined by chromametric measurements after treatment with 2% SulforaWhite.

• Glutathione peroxidase (GPX1)

of the natural hormone α-MSH that

is induced after exposure

stimulates skin pigmentation. The

to oxidative stress, such as

melanin content was determined

UV irradiation or hyperoxia,

by measuring its optical density

indicating its role in cellular

at 405 nm and the cell viability

defence.

was evaluated in parallel using

• Thioredoxin reductase 1 (TrxR1)

an MTT assay. Results showed that

works together with NADPH to

0.4% SulforaWhite inhibits melanin

control the redox balance of

formation induced by α-MSH by

the cell.

44% (Figure 2). This activity is dose-

21

Skincare

Figure 4: Determination of fibroblast proteasome activity and the effect of a cress sprout extract.

activity was evaluated by using

cascade. As such, SulforaWhite

the Proteasome-Glo Assay

exerts a skin whitening effect and,

(Promega) using a substrate whose

at the same time, protects against

degradation by the proteasome

premature skin ageing. Age spots

results in a luminescent signal.

are caused by a local overreaction

Results show that the proteasome

to sunlight. The result is an increased

activity in young fibroblasts

formation of two types of pigments,

(passage 8) was 15% higher than

namely melanin and lipofuscin.

in old cells (passage 16) (Figure 4).

For a treatment to be efficient, the

Four hours after incubation with

synthesis of both types of pigments

the cress sprout extract (0.33%),

has to be inhibited. Genistein, a

the proteasome activity of old

known tyrosine kinase inhibitor, is

fibroblasts was increased by

supposed to interfere with the SCF/

71%. By stimulating proteasome

ET-1 cytokine signalling that takes

activity, the cress sprout extract

place between keratinocytes

can prevent or reduce the

and melanocytes (shown in

accumulation of oxidized

the literature to be overactive

proteins and thus inhibit lipofuscin

in age spots). The cress sprout

formation.

extract blocks the activity of

A 4% Delentigo cream was

the sunlight-induced paracrine

tested in two clinical studies.

factor, α-MSH. All these activities

The first double-blind, placebo-

result in the reduced formation

controlled study was done with 10

of melanin. The cress sprout

women aged between 47 and 77.

extract acts as a promoter of

The test cream was applied twice

the cell’s own defence against

daily for 4 weeks on defined spots

oxidative stress and as a specific

as well as on normally pigmented

stimulator of the proteasome

skin areas of one hand. The

system — reducing the formation of

placebo cream was applied in a

lipofuscin. Therefore, Delentigo acts

similar way to the other hand. To

specifically in the spot area without

analyse the skin pigmentation, the

inducing a bleaching effect on the

melanin index was measured with

neighboring skin. PHM

the Skin Pigmentation Analyzer SPA99 (Courage and Khazaka) at the beginning of the study and after 4 weeks. The study results showed that the test cream could significantly fade the age spots (Figure 5). After four weeks’ application and compared with age spots treated with the placebo cream, the melanin index had

Figure 5: In vivo test results. The melanin index of age spots was measured after treatment with a 4% Delentigo cream.

decreased by 6.2%. There was no difference in the melanin index of the normally pigmented skin

dependent and is not a cytotoxic

measured as lightness L*, and by an

treated with either the test cream

effect artifact as the MTT assay

increase in Individual Typological

or the placebo.

showed.

Angle (ITA°). After 56 days of

Whitening effect of SulforaWhite: A

use, and compared with the

Conclusions

human clinical trial was conducted

placebo product, the cream with

A garden cress sprout extract was

on 22 Asian subjects aged

SulforaWhite induced a significant

demonstrated to exert a significant

between 22 and 39. A cream with

increase in lightness L* (+0.5 ± 0.2

whitening activity. The results of

2% SulforaWhite was applied twice

AU; p = 0.004) and a significant

the cell-based assays with B16

daily for 56 days on the inner side

increase in the ITA° parameter

cells indicate that SulforaWhite

of one forearm. The other forearm

(+1.4 ± 0.4 AU; p = 0.004) (Figure 3).

disrupts the binding of α-MSH

was treated with a placebo

Specific age spot whitening

to its receptor on melanocytes.

cream. The upper arm was used

with Delentigo: The cress sprout

The whitening mechanism of

as an untreated zone. Skin colour

extract turned out to be very

SulforaWhite also seems to be

was measured with a MINOLTA

active in a cell-based screening

linked to its capacity to protect

CR300 chromameter. Whitening

assay for modulators of the

against reactive oxidants, the very

is shown by increased skin clarity,

proteasome system. Proteasome

first triggers in the pigmentation

22

References

1. V.A. Vernace, T. SchmidtGlenewinkel and M.E. FigueiredoPereira, “Aging and Regulated Protein Degradation: Who Has the Upper Hand?” Aging Cell 6, 599–606 (2007).

2. P. Talalay, et al., “Sulforaphane Mobilizes Cellular Defenses That Protect Skin Against Damage by UV Radiation,” Proc. Natl Acad. Sci. USA 104, 17500–17505 (2007).

3, R. Roskoski, “Signaling by Kit Protein-Tyrosine Kinase: The Stem Cell Factor Receptor,” Biochem.

Biophys. Res. Commun. 337, 1–13 (2005).

4. G.E. Costin and V.J. Hearing, “Human Skin Pigmentation: Melanocytes Modulate Skin Color in Response to Stress,” FASEB J. 21, 976–994 (2007).

For more information

Irene Montaño, PhD Mibelle Biochemistry AG Bolimattstr. 1 CH-5033, Buchs, Switzerland www.mibellebiochemistry.com

autumn 2010

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Effective Outsourcing for Better Business O Peter Burrows of Ceuta Healthcare discusses the phenomenon of outsourcing brands and explains how it can deliver cost-effective growth for your business. utsourcing

resource with the capability to

access to superior service,

headcounts, allow them to

is rapidly

support your internal commercial

creativity, capability, strategic

integrate outsourcing expertise

developing into

teams. This gives you access to

focus, new business or a territory

to drive growth or expand their

one of the largest

• knowledge

and, in some cases, cost savings.

business into new markets without

business service

• intellectual property

Typical examples of outsourced

necessarily setting up a high-cost

provision entities in the world.

• added value

services are the use of advertising

infrastructure. Utilizing outsourced

Historically, outsourcing brands

• technology

agencies, call centres, sales

services enables them to invest

or services had been seen as

• expertise

support, telesales, HR, training,

strategically. Clearly, outsourcing

a way to simply cut costs; now,

• high quality human resources.

IT support, logistics and other

can deliver a number of selective

however, the business model is

Whatever the size of the company,

bespoke service providers.

options to drive profitable growth,

changing and contract service

outsourcing can create significant

providers can deliver so much

value for your business.

more. Companies now outsource

which adds significant value to an

Why Outsource?

organization.

All CEOs are faced with the

both specialized and day-to-

What is Outsourcing?

challenge of delivering ongoing

day business functions, and cost

Outsourcing is when a company

sustainable profits, appeasing

Brand Fostering: The New Phenomenon!

savings are not always the focus.

chooses to use an outside

shareholders and meeting

Health and beauty manufacturers

It’s more about how they invest

agency/business to provide

increased industry/trade margins

around the world are

and profitably grow the business

or deliver a service that could

whilst continuing to invest in

consolidating through mergers

for the future? These aspirations

be — or has historically been —

growth. Outsourcing can provide

and acquisitions, creating huge

can be achieved by bringing in

managed internally. The benefits

businesses with cost-effective

global organizations with large

a proven external professional

of outsourcing range from having

solutions to reduce internal

brand portfolios. This M&A activity

24

autumn 2010

creates global powerhouses that own “mega-brands,” which receive the majority of the companies’ focus, energy and investment … and rightly so! This does, however, create a dichotomy for the newly formed organizations as they wrestle with the challenge of how to maximize the value and growth potential of the smaller brands within the enlarged portfolio. Many of the smaller brands (of which some may be significant players in specific local markets) are not deemed worthy of any significant investment by the corporation.

Often, these brands become neglected — through loss of

Outsourcing can deliver a number of selective options to drive profitable growth, which adds significant value to an organization.

investment and focus — leading

•H R department: good people support and development • s olid back office support and well staffed infrastructure

investment’ category of a slow, often painful death, manufacturers should at least explore the benefits of fostering

•c orporate social governance

out the management of the

•e nvironmental best practice

brand or project to someone

• f ull service providers

who can deliver the focus and

• s upportive intellectual property

“TLC” required to maximize the

•o pen minded to new business

value of the asset and any growth

models and ideas.

potential.

Companies are seeking options that also offer significant

Benefits of Outsourcing

value creation for their brands,

There is a well known saying

business plans and strategies. They

that a business or brand without

also recognize that the cheapest

direction or focus will simply drive

options are often, if not always,

itself downhill. With the right third

false economies.

party partner on board, however,

affordable commercial cost

you would expect to

Should You Outsource?

• halt the decline of an unfocused

Outsourcing brands or activities

• re-engineer a brand to realize

potential death of a once loved

Third Party Parameters

and trusted icon.

The boards of many large

can create untapped value for

corporations consider

many types of organizations.

the option to sell smaller brands

“outsourcing” to be a leading

Below is a list of the types of

and generate funds to invest in

strategic imperative for their

companies that should consider

their mega-brands, but this does

immediate or future strategies;

outsourcing as an alternative to

have some drawbacks. First, in

they’re not just focused on saving

traditional strategies:

a portfolio there are often ‘cash

money, they want to know how

• companies with too many

cows’ that support the investment

to cost-effectively grow their

levels on core brands. If cash

business. It is also worth noting

cows are sold, the future profits

that businesses choosing to

they would have generated to

outsource brands are becoming

invest in the core brands are lost

very selective in appointing

… and you can only sell a brand

the right outsourcing partner/

investment/focus brands but

with complex portfolio choices

once! Secondly, selling brands

company. They see the chosen

large tails

or a smaller innovation company

that are strong in a specific

partner as an integral, strategic,

geography can weaken a local

trusted and tactical part of their

divesting brands with latent,

product, outsourcing can deliver

affiliate’s ability to compete in that

business, which necessitates a

significant growth potential

cost-effective and significant

territory. Last but not least, selling

parallel alignment on both sides

brands (often to competitors)

regarding work ethics, culture,

switch candidates but no OTC

Ceuta Healthcare have a proven

can result in a more aggressive

leadership and vision. To achieve

capability or infrastructure

track record of re-engineering

competitive environment as the

and maintain the high standards

• companies looking to enter

established brands to maximize

sold brand begins to compete

required of a professional,

new markets or specialty trade

potential and finding innovative

for retailer shelf space and

sustainable outsourcing partner,

channels with no desire to carry

solutions. If nothing else, you should

market share as it benefits from a

service providers must be able to

the infrastructure costs

at least explore the commercial

more defined focus and media

fulfil the disciplines and support

investment. To overcome these

functions within the following

local brands that could travel to

complex portfolio issues, many

framework to ensure best practice:

new geographies

organizations are choosing to

• proven track record of success

outsource or “foster out” non-

in managing and developing

to brand equity erosion and the

Larger corporations have

core brands to third party sales

brands

and marketing partners. The third

• solutions provider

party partner sees the brand as

• excellent trade channel

being big and important to their

coverage

brands • companies that have complex and large tails • companies with defined core

• companies considering

• Rx companies with OTC

• smaller companies with great

• innovation companies with great new ideas but no commercialization experience • companies needing to exit a market because of unsustainable losses that are

• industry and trade respectability

incorporated through local

the focus and attention required

• positive trade relationships

market overheads such as

to maximize the potential of the

• highly skilled workforce in key

buildings, people, utility costs

right partner with a proven track record is key to success.

2010 autumn

disciplines • training support and career guidance for personnel

untapped potential • increase brand equity and value • allow internal departments to focus on core strategic activities • access new and untapped territories or trade channels • achieve optimal returns from smart portfolio management.

portfolio management issues

business and therefore delivers

brand. Of course, selecting the

brand

and taxation.

Before divesting a brand or consigning it to the ‘non-

Summary Whether you are a large company

looking to commercialize a unique

benefits to your business. We at

option before deciding on your chosen strategy. PHM

For more information

Peter Burrows Director of International Business Development, Health and Beauty The Ceuta Healthcare Group Ceuta Healthcare Ltd Hill House, 41 Richmond Hill Bournemouth BH2 6HS, UK. Tel. +44 1202 780 558 peter.burrows@ceutahealthcare.com www.ceutahealthcare.com

25

Formulation

Nanocapsulations in

Cosmetic Products An Answer to Your Formulation Problems?

Nowadays, we hear more and more about nanocapsulation. Sometimes it’s about how wonderful it is and, at the same time, about the controversy surrounding its safety. In this series of articles, I aim to provide an extensive review of the latest research in cosmetic nanocapsulation, looking at what nanocapsules are, different types of nanocapsules and their production methods, the controversy issue surrounding nanocapsule safety and, finally, their efficacy as a novel delivery system for cosmetic products.

T

o exert their activity,

and physical stability. Owing

active ingredients

to specific physicochemical

should be delivered

properties (such as low

in the right chemical

solubility, chemical instability,

form to the right

intense colour or sensitivity to

site of action at the right

oxidation), the incorporation

concentration and within the

of some actives may not lead

right period of time (Morganti et

to an effective or aesthetically

al., 2001; Wiechers, 2007). Actives

acceptable product. One of the

are normally dispersed within a

most elegant ways to improve

carrier vehicle, which plays an

the performance of actives in

important role in topical delivery

cosmetic formulations is the use

(Buchmann, 2006). In addition to

of delivery systems. A cosmetic

being responsible for the effective

delivery system is broadly defined

delivery of active compounds,

as a way of carrying an active

vehicles should also provide

ingredient to the site of action

aesthetic acceptability and

(mostly skin). In most cases, the

fulfil the requirements of safety

active is first incorporated into a carrier, such as a micro- or

continuous development of

to the problems experienced

nanoparticle, after which the

new technologies to introduce

with existing encapsulation

loaded carrier is dispersed within

effective and desirable products

techniques, such as leaking of the

a vehicle (a cream or gel). The

into the market. Encapsulation

active ingredient, limited shelf-life,

delivery system should present

is one of the most frequently

encapsulation efficiency and

an active molecule to the skin in

used technologies in cosmetic

release properties.

a way that allows its appropriate

delivery systems, whereby a

release to the target site

protective shell is used to surround

(Morganti et al., 2001).

an active ingredient. Successful

Colloidal Delivery Systems

encapsulation should provide

Nanoparticulate colloidal

chemical stability for the active

delivery systems can be

by shielding it from environmental

described as molecular and/

factors (oxygen, pH). It could

or molecular assembly systems

also mask an unpleasant

in which an active principle

colour or odour, improve the

is dissolved, entrapped,

physiochemical properties of

encapsulated or even adsorbed

actives without altering their

or attached to the external

chemical nature or biological

interface (Anton et al., 2007).

activity, and enhance the

A considerable number of

permeation of the active from

nanoparticle generation

the vehicle to the site of action.

methods are based on

The cosmetic industry was one

nanoemulsion templates.

of the first industries to employ

Nanoemulsions are nano-sized

nanotechnology. Nanoparticles

emulsions, typically exhibiting

are expected to bring solutions

diameters of up to 500 nm. The

The cosmetic industry is driven by innovation and the

26

A Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis image of purified vitamin E-loaded lipid nanocarriers.

autumn 2010

characteristic of nanoemulsions that makes them prime candidates for nanoparticle engineering is their high stability.

They possess kinetic stability that lasts for months, stability against dilution and, often, stability against temperature changes. The small droplet size of nanoemulsions stabilizes them against sedimentation (or creaming) because the Brownian motion and, consequently, the diffusion rate is higher than the sedimentation (or creaming) rate induced by the force of gravity.

The main cause of nanoemulsion destabilization is Ostwald ripening or molecular diffusion. The rate of Ostwald ripening can be reduced by several orders of magnitude by adding additives (cosurfactants, polymers) that have substantially lower solubility in the continuous phase than in the main component of the droplet. This reduction in ripening

Successful encapsulation should provide chemical stability for the active by shielding it from environmental factors.

The choice of the method

(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller,

can directly influence the

Mader and Gohla, 2000). One

morphology of the nanoparticles

of the most commonly used

and, consequently, the route

high-energy methods for SLN

of the administration and the

production is high-pressure

choice of encapsulated actives.

homogenization (HPH) or

The morphology and structure

sonication. This method typically

of nanoparticles are directly

includes the following steps:

related to their biocompatibility

• heating the lipid phase (plus

and physiological/ pharmacological efficacy.

A nanoparticulate colloidal delivery system can comprise either polymers or lipid materials. Polymers used to

potentially solubilized active) at 5–10 °C above its melting point • premixing it in an aqueous surfactant solution at the same temperature • nano-emulsifying the pre-

make a nanoparticulate

emulsion using an HPH method

system can be synthetic or

(Muller and Dingler, 1998; Muller

natural macromolecules, such

and Lucks, 1997) or sonication

as chitosan, polysaccharides,

method (Schwarz, Mehnert &

alginate or gelatin, thus increasing their biocompatibility and reducing their toxicity. Lipidbased nanoparticles, because

Luck, 2004; Seki et al., 2004 • cooling it down to room temperature to crystallize the lipids.

of their safety profiles, have

For the encapsulation of

attracted more attention in the

thermosensitive actives, an

cosmetics industry. Lipid-based

alternative method — known

nanoparticles can be classified

as the cold homogenization

rate leads to the stabilization of

Saulnier, 2008). High-energy

as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)

technique — was proposed by

nanoemulsions (Taylor & Ottewill,

methods use strong shear forces

and lipid nanocapsules (LNCs)

Muller, Madar and Gohla (2000).

1994); however, nanocapsules

to create large interfacial areas.

— also known as nanocarriers.

However, when the purpose of

produced from a nanoemulsion

The formation of nanoscale

Both types have shown excellent

the experiment is to encapsulate

template are several orders of

droplets by this method is

safety profiles because they are

fragile molecules, such as

magnitude more stable.

affected by controllable

based on physiological lipids and

peptides, proteins or actives

formulation parameters, such

do not contain organic solvents.

sensitive to oxidation, high-energy

There are two principal methods for the generation

as the energy input, the amount

of nanoemulsion templates:

of surfactant and the nature of

high-energy methods (such

methods may result in the loss of activity during processing. In

the components. Conversely,

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles

as sonication and high shear

with low-energy methods, the

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs)

is also important to consider the

homogenization) and low-

formation of nanoemulsion

are commonly defined as

energetic yield, which is many

energy methods (such as

droplets is governed by the

nanospheres or nanoscaled

times greater in high-energy

spontaneous emulsification and

intrinsic physicochemical

lipid matrices; they are solid

methods (Tadros et al., 2004)

the phase inversion temperature

properties and behaviour of

at physiological temperatures

method) (Anton, Benoit and

the systems (Anton et al, 2007).

and stabilized by surfactants

2010 autumn

the case of industrial scale-up, it

Low-energy SLN production methods are based on the

27

Formulation Lipid Nanocapsules LNCs are colloidal entities that exhibit a core-shell structure.

The core is mainly composed of liquid oil, which acts as a reservoir for the active, and is surrounded by an amorphous surfactant shell. The advantages formation of microemulsions

of LNCs compared with SLNs are

and subsequent water dilution,

higher encapsulation efficiencies

which induces cooling of the

because of the optimized active

system and lipid nanoparticle

solubility in the nanoparticle

precipitation (Gasco, 1997). To

core, better protection of the

form a microemulsion, lipids

active against degradation

(fatty acids and/or glycerides)

and lower tissue irritation (a

are melted; a mixture of water,

less pronounced burst effect

cosurfactant(s) and the surfactant

on active release). LNCs were

is heated to the same temperature

first introduced by Heurtault

as the lipid and added under

et al. (2002). The authors used

mild stirring to the lipid melt. A

a low-energy method for LNC

transparent, thermodynamically

production, a combination of

stable system is formed when

the phase inversion temperature

the compounds are mixed in the

(PIT) method and controlled

correct ratio. This microemulsion is

temperature cycling. The LNC

then dispersed in a cold aqueous

in question was formed from

medium under mild mechanical

biocompatible lipid ingredients

mixing, thus ensuring that the

(medium-chain triglycerides),

small size of the particles is a

an ethoxylated non-ionic

result of the precipitation and is

surfactant (polyoxyethylene-

not mechanically induced by

660-12-hydroxy stearate) and a

the stirring process (Gasco, 1997;

phospholipid surfactant lecithin

Boltri et al., 1993). This method

(Heurtault et al., 2003). LNC

not only requires the use of

stability was attributed to their

surfactants and cosurfactants

surface cohesion related to a

(such as lecithin), but also

surfactant shell. The PIT method

alcohols (butanol, for example);

used is particularly interesting

the presence of the latter is not

as it is an organic, solvent-free

desirable in dermal delivery. SLNs

and low-energy method. These

have the disadvantage of low

specifications are potentially

encapsulation efficiency. The

the most suitable for cosmetic

particle matrix tends to form a

applications. In addition, the

relatively perfect crystal lattice,

method is relatively simple and

leaving only a limited space to

allows easy industrial scale-up.

accommodate the active. This

An overview of nano-related

limits the loading capacity and

cosmetic products, including lipid

can lead to the expulsion of active

nanoparticles introduced to the

from the lipid matrix during storage

market between 2005 and 2007

(Bunjes and Koch, 1996). There is

for brands such as Dr. Rimpler,

also a problem of the presence

Isabelle Lancray and Beate

of a mixture of micro- and

Johnen, was published by Muller

nanoparticles in final products,

et al. (2007). However, employing

as well as organic solvents, when

lipid nanocarriers in cosmetic

SLNs are obtained by low-energy

products is still in its research

methods. It looks like the new

phase (Moddaresi et al., 2009;

generation of nanoparticles —

Moddaresi et al, 2010). In the

lipid nanocapsules/nanocarriers

next article, an extensive review

(LNCs) — could be the ideal

of how lipid nanoparticulate

model for the encapsulation of

systems can increase the

highly sensitive actives (Moddaresi

efficacy of cosmetics products

et al., 2006).

will be discussed. PHM

28

References

1. N. Anton, et al., “Nanoemulsions and Nanocapsules by the PIT Method: An Investigation on the Role of the Temperature Cycling on the Emulsion Phase Inversion,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 344, 44–52 (2007).

2. N. Anton, J. Benoit and P. Saulnier, “Design and Production of Nanoparticles Formulated from Nanoemulsion Templates — A Review,” Journal of Controlled Release 128, 185–199 (2008).

3. L. Boltri, et al., “Lipid Nanoparticles: Evaluation of Some Critical Formulation Parameters,” Proc. International Symposium Controlled Release Bioactives Materials 20, 346–347 (1993).

4. H. Bunjes and M.H. Koch, “Crystallization Tendency and Polymorphic Transitions in Triglyceride Nanoparticles,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 29, 159–173 (1996).

5. S. Buchmann, “Main Cosmetic Vehicles,” in M. Paye, A. Barel and H.I. Maibach (Eds.), Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (CRS Press, London, UK, 2006) pp 99–113.

6. M.R. Gasco, “Solid Lipid Nanospheres from Warm Microemulsions,” Pharmaceutical Technology Europe 9, 32–42 (1997).

7. B. Heurtault, et al., “A Novel Phase Inversion-Based Process for the Preparation of Lipid Nanocarriers,” Pharmaceutical Research 19(6), 875–880 (2002).

8. B. Heurtault, et al., “Interfacial Stability of Lipid Nanocapsules,” Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 30(3), 225–235 (2003).

9. M. Moddaresi, S.A. Tamburic and M.B. Brown, “Vitamin E Nanoparticles for Dermal Applications,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 58(10), A13–A14 (2006).

10. M. Moddaresi, et al., “The Influence of Particle Transport on the Topical Delivery of Tochopheryl Acetate-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanocarriers,” submitted to International Journal of Pharmaceutics.

11. M. Moddaresi, et al., “Tocopheryl Acetate Disposition in Porcine and Human Skin When Administered Using Lipid Nanocarriers,” Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 62, 762–769 (2010).

12. P. Morganti, et al., “Percutaneous Absorption and Delivery Systems,” Clinics in Dermatology 19, 489–501 (2001).

13. R.H. Müller and A. Dingler, “The Next Generation After the Liposomes: Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN, Lipopearls) as Dermal Carriers in Cosmetics,” Eurocosmetics 7/8, 19–26 (1998).

14. R. Muller and J.S. Lucks, “Arzneistoffträger aus Festen Lipidteilchen — Feste Lipid Nanosphären (SLN),” German Patent Application P4131562.6 (1997).

15. R.H. Müller, K. Mader and S. Gohla, “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery: A Review of the State of the Art,” European Journal of Pharmacy and Biopharmacy 50(1), 161–177 (2000).

16. C. Schwarz, et al., “Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) for Controlled Drug Delivery.

Part 1. Production, Characterization and Sterilization,” Journal of Controlled Release 30(4), 83–96 (2004).

17. J. Seki, et al., “A Nanometer Lipid Emulsion, Lipid Nanosphere (lns), as a Parenteral Drug Carrier for Passive Drug Targeting,” International Journal of Pharmaceutics 273, 75–83 (2004).

18. T. Tadros, “Application of Rheology for Assessment and Prediction of the LongTerm Physical Stability of Emulsions,” Advanced Colloid International Science 108, 227–258 (2004).

19. P. Taylor and R.H. Ottewill, “Ostwald Ripening in O/W Miniemulsions Formed by the Dilution of O/W Microemulsions,” Trends in Colloid and Interface Science 9, 199–203 (1994).

20. J.W. Wiechers, “Influence of Formulation Design on the Clinical Performance of Topically Applied Formulation,” in A. Kenneth, A. Walters and M.S. Roberts (Eds.), Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic and Cosmetic Development, First Edition (CRC Press, London, UK, 2007) p 355.

For more information

Dr Mojgan Moddaresi graduated as a Doctor of Pharmacy in 1998; gaining experience as a PharmD in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries, she started her PhD in 2004. She was the first person to be awarded the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Cosmetic Science in the UK. She currently works in the cosmetics industry as a consultant and advises on innovative approaches to designing cosmetics products. For further information, please contact m.moddaresi@gmail.com.

autumn 2010

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29

Technology

Bugs, Plants and Business G PHM’s Editorial Director, Dr Kevin Robinson, reviews some of the recent developments in the less glamorous part of the personal care industry. enes-To-Proteins

with some disadvantages, such as

in-cosmetics Asia in mind, Dow

Technology

overloading the secretion system,

Microbial Control customers in

control challenge that requires

SA (GTP), a

an unstable host and having to

the Southeast Asia, Australia

a unique solution,” said Mark

contract research

deal with the inducer itself. The

and New Zealand region now

Henning. “The central mission of

organization

new constitutive inducers from GTP

have improved access to global

the academy is to teach, lead

that specializes in protein

are more stable, which is essential

technical expertise and R&D

and research microbial control

engineering, now offers significant

for process optimization and

tools following the recent launch

science and technology for the

improvements in continuous

continuous fermentation. GTP’s

of the Dow Microbial Control

betterment of customers, markets

fermentation processes with

innovation, originally developed

Academy in Singapore. The

and applications worldwide,

Lactococcus lactis, a promising

in conjunction with academia,

academy is a multipurpose

and the Singapore Academy

gene expression host. The

covers novel DNA sequences that

educational institution focused on

will deliver on our commitment

improvements to the host deliver

function as promoters, expression

the transmission, expansion and

to provide that expertise locally

a number of benefits for biologic,

vectors and transformed host cells.

application of microbial control

in the Southeast Asia, Australia

diagnostic and cosmetic

The invention also allows the use of

knowledge. Vipul Shah, President

and New Zealand region.” The

applications. The company,

these promoters for the production

for Southeast Asia and India/

academy is designed to provide

which has now completed more

of heterologous proteins, such as

Pakistan of The Dow Chemical

Dow Microbial Control customers

than 800 projects for customers

therapeutic or vaccine-related

Company, along with Mark

in the region with easy and

in the life sciences industries, has

proteins. The company has filed

Henning, Dow Microbial Control

continuous access to educational

introduced induced expression

patents covering the technology

Global General Manager, were on-

opportunities, regulatory support,

enhancements and developed

and has an ongoing innovation

site to mark the occasion and share

technical expertise and R&D tools

a constitutive promoter for

programme; amongst its current

information on R&D with more than

through both online platforms

continuous fermentation processes

projects is an investigation into

90 customers from a spectrum of

and customized training sessions.

in L. lactis. In so doing, it has

promising approaches to biomass

industries. Celso Magri, Global

This enables customers to be

overcome most of the difficulty

increase with an industrial partner.

Marketing Manager, conducted

constantly informed on regional

of balancing translation and

For more information, visit www.

a seminar on new concepts in

best practices that will benefit

secretion. The inducible promoters

gtptech.com.1

microbial control, highlighting

used with L. lactis provide gene expression control, but also come

30 30

Staying on a micro-theme, and keeping the upcoming

“Every customer has a microbial

Dow Microbial Control’s focus on responsible innovation.

autumn autumn2010 2010

their businesses. Besides providing

also be establishing technical

and achieve the objectives set by

green — naturally derived,

extensive resources, such as

service facilities in Jinshan.”

its management. In this regard,

biodegradable, petrochemical-

training sessions and research

Cognis’ APG surfactants are

we are of the opinion that once

free and environmentally safe

updates, Dow Microbial Control

safe, combine mildness and

unprofitable projects have been

— ingredients are expected to

offers its customers science and

environmental compatibility while

discarded and non-recurring

grow rapidly in the future. “A

technology expertise through

also offering high performance.

charges have been eliminated,

combination of companies offer

its Customer Application Center

As such, they are a preferred

we will be able to significantly

greener ingredients from Cognis

based in Singapore (www.

ingredient for many customers in

increase revenues and achieve a

and Croda to smaller players,

DowMicrobialControl.com).

bath and shower gels, household

high level of profitability.”

which are more focused on a

cleaners, dishwashing and

Build, Buy and Grow

laundry detergents and can be

Since the summer issue of PHM

natural ingredient portfolio,” added Ibbotson. UV absorbers

widely applied in agrochemical

The Return of Innovation

went to press, Cognis opened its

formulations (www.cognis.com).

Advanced R&D, expansion

consumer demand for UV

new state-of-the-art production

Also in expansive mode, IMA

and merger and acquisition

protective qualities in many

are expected to benefit from

facility for alkyl polyglucoside

(www.ima.it) and FORUM SpA

activity have got to be good

skincare products outside of the

(APG) surfactants in Jinshan,

recently signed an investment

news for the industry. And, as

more traditional sun care ranges.

China. The company also signed

agreement for IMA to buy a

the economic pressure eases,

the Responsible Care Charter

majority stake in GIMA SpA, a

innovation appears to be back

increasing convergence of the

there. Along with its other

packaging company based near

as well, playing an important role

personal care ingredients industry,

two production sites for APG

Bologna, Italy, which operates

in ingredient buying decisions

with mergers and acquisitions

surfactants in Düsseldorf, Germany

prevalently in food, beverage

and allowing suppliers to develop

decreasing the number of

and Cincinnati, USA, the Jinshan

and the personal care markets.

their portfolios. According to

players active in the market. A

facility will enable Cognis to better

In addition to the general crisis of

a recent Kline report, price

notable acquisition in the sector

serve the increasing demand for

recent years, GIMA SpA has been

was the key motivation behind

that confirms this trend was the

green solutions in the Asia-Pacific

experiencing specific problems of

purchasing decisions during the

recent purchase of Cognis by

region. Richard Ridinger, Executive

its own, having to refocus on new

economic downturn, creating a

BASF in June. According to Kline,

Vice President Care Chemicals,

products that led to a precarious

challenging situation for personal

this convergence is an attempt

commented: “The new facility in

economic and financial situation.

care ingredients suppliers. Now,

by suppliers to become a one-

China complements our existing

However, the company is now

although price sensitivity is still an

stop-shop for ingredients and

plants in Germany and the US, and

showing considerable growth

issue, it is lessening — depending

to be present in most market

improves the global availability of

prospects with a fast-growing

on which channel the customer

segments. However, the effect

our high-quality APG surfactants;

order book and a number of very

is active in. In an interview with

that this will have on the health

this is a real investment in the

interesting projects currently being

CosmeticsDesign-Europe.com,

of the personal care ingredients

company’s future. And, by signing

implemented. IMA is to invest a

Kline Analyst Anna Ibbotson

industry is not clear. “It is too

the Responsible Care Charter,

total of around €7.0 million and

commented: “After a difficult

early to say what the impact

we the aim to further improve

would then acquire a 65% stake

period when price was the key

will be on the market,” Ibbotson

safety, health and environmental

of the share capital. The current

purchasing criterion, the return

said. The recession may well be

performance. The Cognis

single partner would remain

of innovation as a key buying

on the decline, but the road to

Responsible Care team in Greater

in the company as a minority

factor for formulators will create

recovery could still be a little

China will soon start co-ordinating

shareholder. Commenting on the

an opportunity for suppliers to

rocky, especially with the big

self-assessment processes within

agreement, Alberto Vacchi, IMA’s

develop more added value …

players looking for non-organic

the affiliate and integrating the

Chairman and Managing Director,

and take market shares from

expansion. SMEs beware! PHM

principles of responsible care into

said: “Considering our strong

established products.”

its standards and procedures.”

interest in certain projects that are

According to the report,

being developed by GIMA, this

the European personal care

facility in Jinshan, China, Cognis

agreement with FORUM will allow

ingredients market is valued at

is responding to the increasing

us to expand IMA’s presence in

$1.74 billion, with annual volume

environmental awareness and

certain niche markets. We are also

growth expected to stand at

consumer demand for high-

very pleased that, by becoming

2.6% until 2014. Owing to the

performance products in the

one of GIMA’s shareholders,

relative resilience of the personal

Asia-Pacific region. Added Young-

we will be able to relaunch a

care and cosmetics sectors, the

Yull Kim, Vice President, Care

historical brand, not to mention an

market has outperformed most

Chemicals, Sales and Marketing,

innovative company with strong

other end-use industries in which

Asia-Pacific: “We closely follow

roots in our area, saving as many

the specialty chemicals industry

the market development in

jobs as possible at a very critical

is active, and is expected to

Asia-Pacific and with the new

time for the economy. We are

recover quickly. Indeed, leading

facility in China, we can serve our

confident that the banking system

ingredients categories within

regional customers even better.

and GIMA’s traditional suppliers

the market comprise specialty

To demonstrate product benefits

will accept FORUM’s plan to save

surfactants, conditioning

and support our customers’

the company, trusting in IMA’s

polymers and emollients, but

application technologies, we will

ability to develop GIMA’s business

UV absorbers and so-called

By opening its new APG

2010 autumn

Kline’s report also noted the

Reference

1. N. Trémillon, et al., “Production and Purification of Staphylococcal Nuclease in Lactococcus lactis Using a New Expression-Secretion System and a pH-Regulated Mini-Reactor,” Microbial Cell Factories 9, 37–49 (2010): www.microbialcellfactories.com/ content/9/1/37.

For more information

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com.

31

Colours and Fragrances

Managing Colour in the Cosmetics Industry:

The Benefits of Contactless Measurement During the past 20 years, colour management has become a prime focus in a growing number of industries. From printing to textiles, from chemicals to automobiles, accurate colour management processes are in place and the corresponding measurement instruments now have a high level of penetration in these markets. This is not the case, however, in the cosmetics industry. Even today, measuring, controlling and formulating the appearance of cosmetic products remains a real industrial challenge and a genuine concern. The reason for this lies in the products’ appearance and colour characteristics. Make-up is a highly complex compound, and its colour is somewhat more difficult to measure than textiles or paints.

A Wide Variety of Compounds

colour characteristics should

different states, such as the colour

with an existing stock of validated

be measured must be agreed.

of the free powder, the colour

products,” says Philippe Spay, the

As such, a meaningful colour

Traditionally, colour control can

of the compacted powder

founder of Newtone, a French

management strategy relies on a

be performed in three different

and the colour on application,

consultancy firm specialized in

technology that is tailored to the

ways, representing the three

corresponding to the powder

colour strategies for the cosmetics

nature of the measured products

typical states of a lipstick product:

applied to a carrier medium.

industry. As a result, production

and the type of information that

• t he mass colour (the colour of

Foundation creams, nail varnishes

processes can still be improved.

needs to be researched. In the

the raw material) corresponds to

and pencils also have different

“In the cosmetics industry, as

case of cosmetics, key criteria are

the colour of the product without

states in which their colour may

part of their production process,

colour, appearance, brilliance

the influence of brilliance.

be measured … and this typically

manufacturers often have to

causes the same issues.

produce seven or eight samples

and effects. Additionally, the

• the grape colour (the colour

measuring technology must

of the lipstick in its shell)

consistently adapt to the

corresponds to the in-store

diversity of products involved.

displayed product. It is often

In the cosmetics industry, the

considered to be the most

wide variety of compounds and

important state, as it defines the

products rendered it difficult — until recently — to make accurate and consistent measurements.

before getting a colour right,”

Persistence of Visual Colour Evaluation

adds Spay. “In the paint and plastic industries, where colour management solutions are well

In recent years, the absence of

established, an average of 1.8

visual aspect of the product

measurement devices capable

samples is enough to obtain a

during purchasing.

of taking all these considerations

given colour and start volume

into account has inhibited

production.” Philippe is keen

• T he colour after application

Lipstick is a good example

corresponds to the aspect

cosmetics professionals from

to emphasize that, owing to

of the complexity of colour

of the colour once it’s been

developing truly industrial colour

the complexity and variety of

measurement in this industry. It is

applied to the lips, and

management strategies. “Almost

cosmetic products, it is unlikely

a product that is often opaque

therefore during use.

95% of our industry still relies on

that such a low figure will

in mass but can be transparent,

In a similar way, a powder’s

a visual appreciation of a given

be obtained any time soon.

translucid or opaque after

colour may be measured in

product’s colour, by comparing it

However, there is still considerable

application. It is coloured by

room for improvement on the

pigments or colourings, with a

current figures.

high degree of brilliance, using traditional colouring substances or pigments with effects (when the colour variation depends on the angle of observation).

Verifying the appearance of this type of product is complex, for the simple reason that brilliance and texture are difficult to measure. Also,

The Contactless Breakthrough Things have taken a new turn, however, with the recent introduction of a new category of measuring devices, offering what the cosmetics industry really needs:

the state in which

contactless

the product’s

measures.

32

autumn 2010

measurement device is only the

Manager for the industrial

first element of the colour value

business unit. “The cosmetics

chain. A close second is colour

industry typically has a tolerance

formulation software, which

of 1.5 ∆E-2000 in production.

effectively helps to maintain

Contact spectrophotometers

colour consistency throughout

have an average predictability

the production cycle. If the

of 2 ∆E-2000, owing to

measuring device is the eye,

inaccuracies in preparing and

the formulation software is the

presenting the product sample.

brain. Colour software is used

This makes them virtually useless

to characterize all the materials

as a measuring tool in the

that are part of a cosmetic

cosmetics industry.” By contrast,

product’s composition. By

contactless devices such as

“Measuring colour samples with

such as X-Rite’s VS450 unit. The

measuring a given product and

the VS450 offer a measurement

a spectrophotometer is not a

result of 4 years of research,

passing the colour values down

accuracy of 0.5 ∆E-2000. This

new concept in the cosmetics

users are now able to capture a

to the formulation software,

makes the colour measure

industry,” says Spay. “In fact,

colour sample without contact,

it is possible to accurately

reliable and effectively usable

many leading companies

making it possible to measure

determine the required

in production. The advent of

have been using such tools,

foundation creams, nail varnishes,

amount of each component

a trustworthy electronic eye is

to a degree, for a number of

powders, lipsticks, monochromes

to get the expected result …

a true milestone that will help

years. But the fact that these

and other pasty or mass care

with limited trial and error.

the cosmetics sector to catch

systems typically involve direct

products directly, without the

Obtaining the right colour for

up with the other industries and

contact with the product is a

surface distortion associated with

a product in a predictable

finally reap the full benefit of a

major issue.” Indeed, cosmetic

traditional spectrophotometers.

way is a valuable asset in the

modern-day colour value chain.

products range in material type

Practical examples include

production environment. It helps

What took many years in printing

from powders to pastes, all of

measuring a spoon filled with a

to save on raw material usage,

and textiles could come a lot

which are difficult to measure

product and levelled of with a

by limiting waste, and ensures

faster in cosmetics, owing to the

with traditional contact-based

spatula, measuring foundation

that production equipment is

technical expertise acquired

instruments. Sample presentation

cream when applied to a model’s

used at maximum efficiency, by

across the board of colour

methods such as glassware

arm or measuring lipstick directly

eliminating downtime.

measurement and analysis. PHM

often distort the appearance

applied to human lips.

of the material. And, the actual

Colour compliance is also a major area of interest. Coupled

substantially more difficult to

Lifting the Colour Measurement Bottleneck

with the right formulation

analyse than a paint product

Contactless measurement is the

tool to check a product’s

that can be evenly spread on a

key that will unlock a number

compliance with a given colour

flat surface and left to dry.

of the issues that are holding

reference. “Compliance with a

back colour management

colour reference is measured in

has now become a reality, with

strategies on an industrial scale

Delta E-2000,” explains Reinhard

the introduction of products

in the cosmetics sector. And the

Feld, X-Rite’s EMEA Product

three dimensional volume of a cosmetic product makes it

Contactless colour measuring

2010 autumn

software, a measuring device such as the VS450 is a useful

For more information

Reinhard Feld EMEA Product Manager X-Rite 4300 44th St. SE Grand Rapids, Michigan 49512, USA. Tel. +1 800 248 9748 info@xrite.com www.xrite.com

33

Last Word

Baobab Oil A Miracle of Nature T

he baobab tree

processing of the produce

albicans, which makes it a

(Adansonia

in the Senegalese town of

useful additive in both hand

digitata) has

Thiès, the local population

care and foot care products

captivated

acquired an important, fair and

people since

sustainable source of revenue.

(particularly regarding nail care). In addition, both oils

time immemorial; in its native

As a biocertified company,

add brilliance to dry hair.

African savannah, it can quite

Baobab Fruit Company

Areas of application include

easily live to be 500 years old,

Senegal separates the fruit in a

the following:

reach a height of 20 m and

purely mechanical way into its

• Face packs

achieve a trunk diameter of

single components. In doing

• B ath essences, soaps,

12 m. Locals call it the magic

so, no chemicals or physical

tree, the chemist’s tree and the

substances are added and

tree of life, designations that

processing is done using

show just how important it is for

European technology and

life in the challenging African

according to strict standards

products

environment. Almost every part

of hygiene.

• Other skincare products.

shower gels and shampoo • Antiageing products • Sun care products • Hand and foot care

of the plant and its fruit have for a variety of applications.

Production and Properties

macerating micronized pits/pips

For example, both humans

From the relatively small seeds

in sunflower oil using ultrasound

Baobab Fruit Company Senegal and Cremer Care

and animals enjoy “tapping”

of the baobab tree, two

to stimulate the release of

Cremer Care’s corporate vision

the enormous water reservoir

different oils are obtained.

active ingredients. Because of

— “Inspired by Nature” — has

inside the trunk to supplement

One, Baobab classic oil,

its versatile properties, baobab

once again been brought

their fluid requirements during

is cold-pressed; the other,

oil is of particular interest to

to life by the co-operation

periods of drought. The fruit, by

Baobab Oxy-Oil, is obtained by

cosmetic companies. Baobab

with Baobab Fruit Company

classic oil is characterized by

Senegal. Users of our baobab

its antioxidant properties and

oil will not only be able to

its high palmitic acid content,

enjoy a high quality, natural

which has a remarkably

product, they will do so in the

high affinity for skin and has

certain knowledge that they are

a positive impact on skin

indirectly supporting fair and

penetration. In fact, a study

sustainable work in one of the

at Ferrara University, Italy,

more disadvantaged areas of

demonstrated that the topical

the world. PHM

been used, for generations,

contrast, is naturally dry when ripe and contains much less water (8 –9%) when harvested.

The seeds, bark, leaves and shoots all provide a number of unique active ingredients and, as such, are used in a wide range of foodstuffs, traditional medicines and cosmetics.

Cremer Care and Baobab Our partner, Baobab Fruit Company Senegal, started collecting fruit in one of the driest regions of Senegal as long ago as 1999. Because of this, and the subsequent

34

The topical application of baobab oil significantly increases skin elasticity.

application of baobab oil significantly increases skin elasticity. Its high tocopherol content results in considerable oxidative stability. Baobab OxyOil is also extremely effective as a free radical scavenger.

Moreover, it inhibits the growth of dermatophytes and Candida

For more information

Sandra Wulf Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co. KG Glockengiesserwall 3 D-20095 Hamburg, Germany.

Tel. +49 4032 0110 S.Wulf@cremer-gruppe.com

autumn 2010

strap

Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31

SulforaWhite Phyto agent for visible whitening

36

SulforaWhite is a natural whitening active with a new mechanism of action. It effectively inhibits pigmentation by targeting the two key upstream reaction steps of the melanin cascade; radicals and alpha-MSH. SulforaWhite is based on garden cress sprouts.

• Effectively inhibits melanin formation • Provides exceptional brightening benefits • Fades the appearance of age spots and discolorations

SulforaWhite reduces the effects of daytime stressors and helps to prevent the formation of melanin for a brighter, more luminous skin complexion.

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

autumn 2010