The world of personal care ingredients
PUREHealth Magazine
AUTUMN EDITION 2011
Male grooming The single man Spotting a gap in the market
Formulation & Innovation Peptides in cosmetics: holy grail or marketing buzzword?
Skincare Naturally sensitive
Regional Report Beauty and Brazil
Green Chemicals A green alternative
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contents AUTUMN EDITION 2011
CONTENTS ue...
s s i s i h t n I
12 From the Editor
05 Evolution Time for Personal Care
Charlotte Hodgson
EVENT PREVIEW
06 Overcoming Formulation Challenges at in-cosmetics Asia Cathy Laporte
08 Formulating by Computer: Art or Science? Prof. Johann Wiechers
28
News and Products
10 A Round Up of the Latest News and Updates
Male Grooming
12 Spotting a Gap in the Market Jules Birch
14 The Single Man Yeah-Young Baek
08
20
Hair Care
16 The World’s Most Widely Used Antidandruff Shampoo Active
Dr George Polson
Skincare
20 Cosmetic Sustainability Angus Robertson
24 A Friend to Skin and Environment Odile Grahl
26 Not Just for the Heart David Peters
28 Naturally Sensitive Dr Lilia Heider
Formulation and Innovation
06
30 Peptides in Cosmetics: Holy Grail or Marketing Buzzword? Dr Mojgan Moddaresi
Regional Report 42 Beauty and Brazil Sérgio Rebêlo
16 2011 autumn
Green Chemicals and CSR 46 A Green Alternative Guisi Losi
3
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We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com
from the editor
for
A
e r a C l a n o s r Pe
ntiageing, age
serious toll on health and quality
must be another mechanism
defying, age
of life … no matter how dewy
in the immune system causing
prevention, youth
your complexion is. Professor
cells to become deactivated
maintenance, etc.,
Arne Akbar of UCL (University
that was independent of
etc. and so forth.
College London), who led this
telomere length. Professor
What we’re really talking about is
research, explains: “Our immune
Akbar continues: “Finding that
making consumers look younger
systems get progressively weaker
these inactive cells had long
than they are, by plumping their
as we age because each time
telomeres was really exciting
cheeks, moisturizing their skin
we recover from an infection, a
as it meant that they might not
and reducing the depth of their
proportion of our white blood
be permanently deactivated.
wrinkles. For what? To keep them
cells become deactivated.
It was like a football manager
sexually attractive for longer?
This is an important process
finding out that some star
To increase their self-esteem?
that has probably evolved to
players who everyone thought
To fool us and them that what
prevent certain cancers; but, as
had retired for good could be
work has discovered a new and
we see on the outside does not
the proportion of inactive cells
coaxed back to play in one last
unforeseen process controlling
reflect the biological processes
builds up with time, our defences
important game.”
how our immune systems change
that are continuing apace on
become weakened. What this
the inside. Yes, my skin looks
research shows is that some of
this newly identified pathway
in detail how our cells work, it
great, but can you help me out
these cells are being actively
in the lab, they found that the
has opened up the prospect of
of my wheelchair? Wouldn’t it
switched off in our bodies by a
white blood cells appeared to
helping older people’s immune
make more sense to take a less
mechanism that hadn’t been
be reactivated. Medicines that
systems using medicines that
superficial, skin-deep look at
identified before as being
block this pathway are already
are already being tested and
antiageing and target the whole
important in immune system
being developed and tested
developed. By increasing
body … instead of just one of its
ageing. Although we wouldn’t
for use in other treatments; so,
the incidence and severity of
organs? Then, those very same
want to reactivate these cells
the next step in this research is
infection, weakened immunity
consumers would look good
permanently, we have an idea
to explore further whether white
seriously damages the health and
and feel good, which has got to
now of how to wake them from
blood cells could be reactivated
quality of life of older people so
be the driving force behind any
their slumber temporarily, just to
in older people, and what
this research is very valuable.” For
product designed to improve
give the immune system a little
benefits this could bring. Professor
a long time now, pharmaceutical
the lifestyle and well-being of
boost.”
Akbar added: “This research
and nutraceutical companies
opens up the exciting possibility
have been reviewing each
the paying public. I’m driven
Until now, ageing in immune
When the researchers blocked
as we get older. Also, by exploring
to this statement by news that
cells was thought to be
of giving older people’s immune
other’s activity … and the
researchers funded by the
determined by the length of
systems a temporary boost to
sectors are converging at an
Biotechnology and Biological
special caps on the ends of
help them fight off infections, but
increasing rate. Perhaps it’s time
Sciences Research Council (BBSRC)
our DNA. These caps, called
this is not a fountain of eternal
for the personal care industry
have discovered a new mechanism
telomeres, get shorter each time
youth. It is perfectly normal for
to embrace its pharma/nutra
controlling ageing in white blood
a white blood cell multiplies until,
our immune systems to become
brethren and expand its remit to
cells. The research, published
when they get too short, the cell
less effective and there are
go beyond cosmetics and tackle
in a recent issue of the Journal
gets permanently deactivated.
good evolutionary reasons for
the greater issues of healthspan,
of Immunology, opens up the
This means that our immune
this. We’re a long way from
well-being and a more holistic
possibility of temporarily reversing
cells have a built-in lifespan of
having enough understanding of
approach to both looking and
the effects of ageing on immunity
effectiveness and, as we live
ageing to consider permanently
feeling good for longer. PHM
and could, in the future, allow
longer, this is no longer long
rejuvenating white blood cells, if it
for the short-term boosting of the
enough to provide us protection
is even possible.”
immune systems of older people.
into old age. However, when
Weakened immunity is a
Professor Douglas Kell, Chief
Professor Akbar’s team took
Executive of the Biotechnology
serious issue for older people.
some blood samples and looked
and Biological Sciences
Because our immune systems
closely at the white blood cells,
Research Council, said: “This is a
become less effective as we age,
they saw that some were inactive
fantastic example of the value
we suffer from more , which are
and yet had long telomeres. This
of deepening our understanding
often more severe. This takes a
told the researchers that there
of fundamental cell biology. This
2011 autumn
For more information
Charlotte Hodgson Assistant Editor, Pure Health Magazine Tel. +44 1372 364 130 charlotte.hodgson@via-medialtd.com www.purehealthmag.co.uk
5
guest editorial
A series of formulation workshops is set to give manufacturers an insight into how they can tackle common obstacles and improve their formulations at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia. Run by renowned scientific experts, the four half-day workshops — 2–4 November — will examine issues surrounding claim support and efficacy testing, skin lightening, formulating with fragrances, sensory science and optimizing cosmetic formulations digitally.
S
tephen Weller, Director
have more and better data to
of complex data analysis, Prof.
of Communications
support the claims from ingredient
Dr Wiechers will explain how it is
at the International
suppliers or from their own testing.
possible to transform a successful
Fragrance Association
This workshop will examine why we
European product into an equally
(IFRA) will lead the
need to support claims and what
successful Asian equivalent. This
first workshop of the day on 3
the requirements are.” Fabrice
requires detailed knowledge of the
November. “Formulating with
Perrin, Director at Spin Control
sensory profiles of raw materials as
Fragrances” will delve into the
Asia will then go on to explain
well as an understanding of their
complexities of the topic, taking
how cosmetics can improve the
influence in determining skin-feel.
a look at the world of fragrance
well-being and quality of life of
The second workshop of the day
regulation. The recent changes
consumers and Cecilia Li from the
will examine how to “Optimize
at IFRA and what it means to
Johnson & Johnson Asia Pacific
Cosmetic Formulations Digitally.”
the cosmetics and fragrance
Skin Testing Center will demonstrate
As Prof. Dr Wiechers explains:
industry and its customer will also
how it is possible to achieve an
“There are so many factors to
be discussed. Dr Matthias Vey,
attractive claim for whitening by
consider when formulating a
Scientific Director at IFRA, will
using a multiplex clinical design.
cosmetic product that by the time
then go on to outline the latest
Concluding the claims support
it comes to the efficient delivery
developments on the Quantitative
programme, Dr R.B. Mohile
of an active ingredient, most
Risk Assessment (QRA) approach
from C.L.A.I.M.S India (Clinical
formulators simply hope for the
adopted by IFRA, offering an
Aesthetics and Investigative
best. This hope-and-see mentality
overview of the 46th Amendment
Management Services) will ask the
is not out of choice but because it
to the IFRA Standards. There will
question, “Which comes first: claims
is too difficult for most formulators
also be an interactive touch
or efficacy testing?” arguing that
to transform complex skin delivery
and feel session from a leading
it could be possible to reverse the
theories into practical formulations.
fragrance house, exploring the
usual process and have efficacy
This workshop will focus on how
latest trends as well as the sensory
testing drive the claims as opposed
to get the most out of the active
issues that go hand in hand with
to the other way around.
ingredient by using technology.”
fragrance formulation.
The final day of the exhibition
Cathy Laporte, Marketing
(4 November) will play host to two
Manager for in-cosmetics Asia
Consulting will introduce the
further workshops. Organized
concluded: “The formulation
second workshop of the day.
by Prof. Dr Johann Wiechers
workshops at in-cosmetics Asia
“Claims Support: What’s New in
from JW Solutions, “Sensory
have traditionally been extremely
Cosmetics Efficacy Testing” will
Science: Scientific Principles and
well attended and have become
give manufacturers advice and
Methodologies” will look at how
an integral feature of the
guidance on how to evaluate
the feel of cosmetic products
educational programme. We have
test results to support the claims
differs between Asia and Europe
some very well regarded experts
of cosmetic products. Explaining
as well as how to formulate a
lined up to present so I would
the rationale behind the topic,
specific skin-feel into a cosmetic
urge anyone involved in cosmetic
he commented: “Consumers
formulation. Not only will the theory
formulation, experienced
are more and more demanding
of different types of sensory testing
formulators or managers of
when it comes to product efficacy
be explained, but attendees will
cosmetic product development
data and regulators want to see
also be able to test the products
departments to book onto a
supporting documents for the
to feel the difference that these
workshop to ensure they get the
claims that are being made. R&D
techniques can bring to their
most from their products in the
formulators therefore need to
cosmetic business. By means
long run.” PHM
Dr Alain Khaiat from Seers
6
For more information
Cathy Laporte Marketing Manager in-cosmetics Asia www.in-cosmeticsasia.com.
autumn 2011
Good looks, good sense. Cosmetics offer a feast for the senses – but what about the sense of responsibility? Evonik works with you to see your innovations through to completion, while at the same time living up to environmental responsibilities. That means you can create products appealing to the desire for good looks – and the need to act with good sense.
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Essen, Germany phone +49 201 173 2854 personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care
event preview
Formulating by Computer in-cosmetics Asia heads to Bangkok from the 2–4 November 2011. Highlights include a series of formulation workshops set to give manufacturers a practical insight into how they can tackle common obstacles and improve their formulations.
P
rofessor Dr Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions, an independent consultancy in
cosmetic science, will explore Optimize Cosmetic Formulations Digitally on Friday 4 November from 14.00–17.00. Here he talks in more depth about the key elements of the workshop. Ask a group of formulators whether cosmetic formulation is an art or a science and most will tell you that it is both. But if you had to choose only one or the other, which one would you go for? If you asked a computer to paint a Renoir, would it work? No, that’s art. But ask a computer to make a formulation and the answer depends on how much you know about formulation science. If you don’t know a lot, it becomes an art. If
fully mastered yet — will remain.
brain. Most cosmetic formulators
you know what you are doing,
In my workshop at in-cosmetics
think that they can feel everything.
understand your ingredients
Asia, I will explain this science
By applying certain cosmetic
and how they work alone and
and see how it can be used to
products on their hands, they will
together, then it becomes a
select emollients and emulsifiers.
find out how good they really are.
science that you can cleverly use
Examples of enhanced stability
For example, it’s often not clear
in new formulations. Strangely
and enhanced skin delivery will
what the words ‘wetness’ and
enough, however, cosmetic
also be shown for use in daily
moisturization’ really mean; some
formulators have traditionally
cosmetic formulating.
words are strictly technical, others are more consumer. What is in fact
been better at the artistic than
a light formulation? We all know
do for the last few years is to put
Sensory Science in Cosmetic Product Design
all this science into a computer
Professor Wiechers will also
difficult this is. How do you distil the
programme that predicts
explore Sensory Science
real differences and plot them?
the behaviour of chemicals
— Scientific Principles and
in formulations. It calculates
Methodologies on Friday 4
in sensory science is of course
many of the scientific aspects
November from 14.00–17.00
how to get a specific feel in
of cosmetic formulating that
during a hands-on workshop in
formulations. It is essential to
formulators tend to forget. For
which participants will really get
look specifically at the effects
your specific needs, it selects the
their hands dirty. You often hear
of emulsifiers, emollients and
best emollients and emulsifiers
people talk about workshops that
polymers to do this. My workshop
and identifies the percentages.
are a one-way conference. They
at in-cosmetics Asia will provide
Does this mean that you will lose
claim that they are hands-on,
attendees with better clarity on all
your job as a formulator? No,
but you only use your brain. Not in
these areas, really demonstrating
absolutely not; many aspects of
my sensory workshop. You need
how to use sensory science in
the science — which we have not
to use both your hands and your
cosmetic product design. PHM
the scientific part. What I have been trying to
8
what it means but try to formulate it into words and you will see how
The other important angle
For more information
To find out more about the in-cosmetics Asia workshops and to book, go to www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/ Workshops.
autumn 2011
news Male Grooming Brand Launches Expanded Range
The Bluebeards Revenge has expanded its product range. Gaining rave reviews from the media, retailers and end users alike, Tom Truman, sales manager for the brand, remarked: “The Bluebeards Revenge has had an amazing reception from the market, with high praise heaped not only on the quality of the products but also our eye-catching and unique packaging and marketing style.” This obviously spurred the team into action — the brand now sports five new products in the range — and Tom is deservedly proud of their achievement, explaining that they “have pulled out all the stops to produce a range of products suitable for mass-market retailers.” A reduction in end selling price has been introduced but, importantly, it has not been at the expense of product quality or iconic branding. All the shaving products still contain the unique, beard reducing ingredient, Decelerine, and the critically acclaimed shaving experience remains intact. Decelerine, a key ingredient of the range, is a unique ingredient that targets hair follicle cells and weakens new hair formation. It has proved to be effective in inhibiting hair growth, decreasing the length and density of unwanted hair and providing a soothing, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. As well as slowing beard regrowth, Decelerine relieves and soothes the effects of shaving, helping to combat common shaving problems such as razor burn, razor rash and bumps. The Bluebeards Revenge, which uses totally recyclable packaging, is suitable for vegetarians and Paraben Free (www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk).
A Truly Professional Guy
M&H Plastics has worked with internationally renowned hairdresser, Guy Kremer, on the launch of a new collection of hair care products, creating an exclusive range of contemporary packaging. M&H’s new 250 mL Tranquility bottle in HDPE was chosen to represent the Cleanse and Rebalance range, which is formulated with essential nutrients to help to balance the hair’s chemistry and restore it to optimum condition. The Tranquility bottle is a smooth, tapered oval shape with a soft gentle feel, sporting a colour palette that combines pink, blue and lavender with a pearlescent sheen. The 23 mm snap-on flip top caps are colour co-ordinated and the bottle front foil blocked in silver to imbue a sense of luxury. The Tranquility is one of the latest additions to the M&H portfolio of more than 1000 products and is available in 250 mL and 200 mL bottles sizes (www.mhplastics.com).
KCC Acquires Basildon Chemical
In April 2011, KCC Corporation (Korea) purchased Basildon Chemicals, opening up new opportunities for both companies. KCC gained a company with a long history of excellence in silicone emulsification and industry acceptance, whereas Basildon gained the backing of one of the world’s fastest growing primary silicone manufacturers. “With Basildon Chemicals, KCC strengthened its service value chain. Our clients have access to specific personal care solutions, with world-class specialty silicone fluids, as well as bespoke emulsions and dispersions,” said Philippe Rovere, commercial manager, KCC Europe. “This strategic acquisition combines the silicone manufacturing and formulating skills of KCC Corporation to best serve its strong organic growth in Europe. KCC Silicone is a leading silicon-based specialty chemicals division of KCC Corporation. With $435 million invested during the last 13 years, and brandishing the catchphrase, “New World, New Leader, New Face,” KCC Corporation is emerging as a new worldwide silicone player (www.kccsilicone.com).
Boosting Vitamin Concentrations
Many cosmetic creams on the market claim to contain antioxidants that will protect against and reverse ageing; in reality, however, the concentrations in many of the available formulations are very low and not well absorbed by the skin. Vitamin C, an important antioxidant, is proven to be effective in the preventing photoageing of the skin when manufactured into a stable topical formulation. This is just what Alta Care Laboratories have achieved with their Dermastir Vitamin C cosmetic ampoules, which prevent the usual rapid decay of the vitamin before use and which also, owing to its high concentration, cannot be washed or sweated off once applied to the skin. Vitamin C is particularly effective at protecting the skin from the free radical increase associated with, for example, exposure to the sun, pollutants and excessive alcohol. It reduces fine lines and wrinkles and promotes wound healing by stabilizing collagen production. A range of cosmetic serum ampoules containing other highly active and concentrated ingredients is also available (www.altacare.com).
Blue Sky Botanics Champions Fairtrade for Skincare
Blue Sky Botanics is leading the way in Fairtrade skincare with its ever-expanding PHYTAFAIR extracts range. The business sources Fairtrade-certified ingredients from co-operative farmers and farming associations across the globe. This ensures that all products in the Blue Sky Botanics PHYTAFAIR range are ethically and sustainably sourced and designed to achieve the maximum Fairtrade ingredient portion in final formulations. Heading the PHYTAFAIR range are fruit extracts and fresh juices that are perfect for skincare as they are packed full of vitamins and minerals, and bursting with antioxidants that nourish and brighten the skin. Not only can customers be assured that they are buying high quality extracts when sourcing from the PHYTAFAIR range, they can also be confident that farmers are receiving a fair price for their crops and that sustainability, biodiversity and local communities are being supported. Blue Sky Botanics also supply from six other PHYTA product ranges; PHYTAPURE organic extracts, PHYTATRUE and PHYTAFARM herbal extracts, PHYTAFIX extracts with standardized levels of specific compounds, PHYTACTIVE extracts with proven activity and PHYTASELECT bespoke extracts. Blue Sky Botanics director, James Lambe, said: “Working with Fairtrade ingredients is a win-win activity; consumers feel good and the world’s poorest farmers, their communities and the environment reap the benefits. Formulators should contact us so we can guide them through the issues surrounding compliance with the Fairtrade Standards for cosmetics.” For more information, visit www.blueskybotanics.com.
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male grooming
Spotting a Gap A 100% natural soluble skin supplement aimed
to feel extremely self-conscious about their skin problem. In fact, you might be surprised to know
at men who suffer from
that men are actually more
problem skin has been
during their adolescence. In
prone to acne than women
launched in the UK.
addition, the number of adult
The newest addition to
similar to of women. help: clear
men who suffer from acne is quite
the health supplement
skin MEN is a simple, easy-to-stick-
range from Works with
which is exactly what men value
Water Nutraceuticals, help: clear skin MEN
to treatment that delivers results … when searching for an effective skin product.”
contains milk protein,
Effective Natural Ingredients
a scientifically proven
The key ingredient is a bioactive
Lactoferrin Summary
Lactoferrin is a protein found in human and cow milk and in the fluids of the eyes, nose and elsewhere in the body. It has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory activities. Antioxidants are receiving increasing attention as possible therapeutic agents in infections and a variety of other diseases; Lactoferrin’s antioxidant activity contributes to its immunomodulatory activity. The protein’s ability to bind iron contributes to both its antioxidant properties (free iron is a contributor in the generation of free radicals) and antibacterial action.
Proven Results Research by Mintel has shown that men are not interested in hollow marketing promises and are looking for grooming products that deliver results quickly. “Men are less patient than women when it comes to researching and buying grooming products. As a brand, it is important to acknowledge this and develop products that deliver on the promises stated on-pack,” says Jules Birch from Works with Water Nutraceuticals. “Our customers should see tangible results in their skin after 6 weeks of twice-daily use of help: clear skin MEN. However, every person is unique in their
milk protein, rich in lactoferrin,
that taking 200 mg of Praventin
genetic makeup, and if results
which has been shown to reduce
a day is sufficient to reduce
cannot be seen after this period of
reduce the appearance
the development of the bacteria
the appearance of spots and
use, we recommend seeking an
of spots and blemishes in
responsible for many skin impurities
blemishes in less than 8 weeks.
alternative solution.” The product
and help to prevent the formation
Both studies showed that 75%
testimonials received by the brand
of blemishes as a result of its
of respondents observed a fair
are evidence that this results driven
antimicrobial effects. Although
to very good improvement in
approach has been a real success
esearch has shown
this protein can be found in
their skin condition — including
with male consumers. PHM
that men have
milk, the beneficial skin clearing
fewer blemishes — a reduction
taken a more active
effect is only activated when this
in the amount of redness and
interest in their
bioactive protein is extracted. In
less oiliness. Each sachet of help:
appearance during
addition to its antibacterial and
clear skin MEN contains 100 mg
the last few years, resulting in a
antiviral properties, lactoferrin
of Praventin, which is why we
demand for male-specific skin
is antifungal, anti-inflammatory,
recommended that two sachets
products. As a quarter of all men
antioxidant and stimulates
are taken each day to achieve
suffer from spots and blemishes
immunomodulatory activities.
the best possible results. In
at some point during their
Lactoferrin helps to co-ordinate
addition to Praventin, the only
lifetime, Jules Birch — founder of
the body’s immune response
other ingredients that can be
Works with Water Nutraceuticals
through several mechanisms of
found in help: clear skin MEN are
— spotted a gap in the market
action. Its iron-binding property
aloe vera and oligofructose,
and formulated a health
prevents the growth of bacterial
known to nourish, heal and
supplement that works from
and viral micro-organisms and
detoxify the skin. Dr Sarah
the inside out and helps men to
tumours, which require iron
Brewer, GP and author, explains:
achieve radiant and blemish-
for their growth. In addition, it
“Taking a product that contains
free skin. Jules explains: “Acne
enhances the oxygenation of
milk protein offers a natural and
affects both sexes, but women
tissues while supporting white
effective approach to treatment
have always had the advantage
blood cell activity. Lactoferrin also
for those having to cope with
of being allowed to experiment
acts as an antioxidant to prevent
the emotional and physical
with different skincare products
free radical formation.
discomfort associated with
ingredient that helps to
as little as 6 weeks.
R
and makeup to reduce the
Research by DMV International
recurrent skin blemishes.
appearance of spots and
and the Department of
Sadly, drinking milk itself does
blemishes. Men, by contrast,
Dermatology, Venereology and
not work as milk contains
don’t always have that option,
Leprosy at the Dr RML Hospital
additional hormones that can
which can often cause them
in New Delhi (India) indicate
make acne worse.”
12
For more information
Jules Birch Founder Works with Water Nutraceuticals Tel. +44 1200 441 003 jules@workswithwater.co.uk www.workswithwater.co.uk
autumn 2011
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 83617 31
LIPerfection Absolute volume, luscious feel LIPerfection is a purified extract of organic yellow mustard sprouts, full of most valuable phytonutrients. Sinalbin, a pungent flavor compound is the major health promoting phytochemical in mustard sprouts. It is known to increase the capillary blood flow and to stimulate thereby volume and redness. Plump red lips provide a youthful healthy appearance. • Plumps and instantly hydrates lips • Reduces appearance of fine lines • Gives the lip area a fuller and firmer look
LIPerfection improves the look, the definition and the color of lips.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
male grooming
Feeling good in your skin is essential for personal well-being — and this doesn’t just apply to women, but men too. Generally considered to be an important factor for personal happiness and social acceptance, the last few years have seen a rapid increase in the time and effort invested by men in a bid to look good and feel fresh. In line with this, the men’s grooming market has registered significant growth, with new skincare, hair care and bathing products being introduced alongside traditional products such as aftershave balms and deodorants. This development is most evident in Asia, where upcoming trends strongly influence men’s grooming habits. BASF keeps a keen eye on these market developments and has identified different types of Asian men, whose specific needs cause them to seek different personal care products. As such, tailored formulations and ingredients that provide end products with the properties demanded by these different groups of men are vital to successfully serving the market.
I
t is no longer just women
becoming more and more
they purchase, wishing them
for example, is an ultra light, quick
who have a daily skincare
beauty conscious. Rising
to be functional — and ideally
spreading emollient that leaves
routine that incorporates
incomes and the popularity of
multi-functional. Regardless of the
the skin feeling soft and ensures
a facial scrub, toner and
men’s fashion magazines are
skincare product purchased —
that the product does not have a
moisturizer in the morning
helping to fuel demand for
be it acne treatment, sun cream
sticky feel. A popular claim carried
and an antiageing cream at
convenient skincare products
or eye care product — Asian
by men’s facial care products
night; market research agency
that provide, to state just a
men want them to combine
in Asia is “masculine but mild,”
Euromonitor International has
few, antiageing, anti-fatigue,
different properties. This means
a response to the expectation
identified men’s grooming as one
moisturizing or nourishing
that in addition to high levels of
of a caring effect. The smooth
of the fastest growing areas in
properties and are tailored to
performance and convenience,
radiancer Cosmedia Gel CC
the personal care market, with
their individual needs. A rising
products should also feel ultra light
helps the product to fill the skin’s
sales predicted to exceed $39.1
number of Asian men are even
and non-greasy on the skin and
micro-relief with a homogeneous
billion in 2015. In Asia in particular,
discovering make up. As such,
are expected to soothe, refresh
film, smoothing the skin’s surface
the influence of Western lifestyle
male interest in grooming is no
and impart a cooling sensation
and stabilizing the emulsion by
trends has resulted in an increased
longer considered to be merely a
to the skin or provide protection
improving pigment distribution.
acceptance of male grooming,
sign of vanity — and this trend is set
against razor burn. Products
resulting in strong growth in the
to continue. For example, between
that offer additional functional
Men Care and So Does the Industry
men’s face care market — an
now and 2014 sales of men’s skin
properties such as whitening or
With an increasing number
important area for cosmetic
and beauty care products are
sun protection are particularly
Asian men taking an interest in
manufacturers. The strongest
predicted to grow five times faster
popular. In addition, more and
their appearance, the men’s
growth figures come from South
in China than in North America.
more men are opting for facial
cosmetic market is becoming
Korea, Japan and China, revealing
To assist its customers in supplying
cleansing products that offer a
an important growth segment
that men in these countries are
the market with tailored solutions,
high level of sebum control.
for cosmetic manufacturers across Asia. It is of paramount
BASF is monitoring the
importance to understand the
investigating the potential
High Performance Ingredients
challenges of the future,
Men’s grooming products are
the various requirements of
keeping up to date with
becoming more sophisticated
men’s skincare, and to offer
the specific demands of
than ever before, meaning that
concepts and formulations for a
consumers.
manufacturers must find suitable
more comprehensive grooming
ingredients for easy incorporation.
regime with sophisticated
A Love of Multi-Function
So, manufacturers need to find
skincare products. Solutions
suitable ingredients that can be
must be specially tailored to the
Although a change
easily incorporated into their
individual needs and preferences
is under way in men’s
products. When it comes to face
of the different types of modern
attitudes towards beauty,
care, Asian men are looking for
Asian man and can help
they still seek the same
products that absorb quickly and
manufacturers to successfully tap
attributes in products
feel light on the skin. Cetiol Sensoft,
into the market. PHM
current developments and
14
differences in skin structure and
autumn 2011
Every Man is Unique Just like women, men’s skin type and condition varies considerably, something that they are increasingly addressing in their search for a range of products — manufacturers wishing to offer the right solutions must be aware of what these differences are. To classify specific needs, BASF has divided Asian men into six consumer types, taking into account different characteristics and regional and cultural differences. The Care Chemicals unit has also used its expertise in formulation technology to develop ready-to-use formulations, ranging from aftershave balms, gels and whitening lotions to easy-to-apply daily facial care products that meet the precise needs of the six different consumer types. Many Asian men enjoy being outdoors, especially if the sun is shining, but their awareness of the harmful effects of UV rays does not always lead them to apply daily sun protection products, as they find most products currently available on the market too oily and sticky and wish to avoid the inconvenience of reapplication throughout the day. These men have been classified as ‘Sun Passionate Men’ and seek products that are non-greasy, offer both sun protection and nourishing properties and can be easily applied as a part of their daily regime. The Matt-Feel Portable Sun Balm for example, is ideal for men’s daily use as it leaves the skin feeling non-sticky and non-greasy, in addition to being easy to apply and portable as a result of its semi solid texture. The ‘Ice Cool Man’ is primarily concerned with practicality and does not wish to deal with unnecessary details; this type of Asian man is looking for simple yet effective products such as the Anti-Ageing Phytoceramide Water Essence, which offers a one step solution. Made using microfluidizer technology, this water emulsion contains botanical ceramides, strengthening the skin’s natural protective barrier and boosting hydration for skin that is smooth and well cared for. A main aim of the ‘Honey Sweet Man’ is to maintain a youthful appearance. Dermatologists agree that having an even skin tone can make someone look up to 10 years younger — to achieve this, the skin colour around the eyes should be the same as the rest of the face and not feature dark circles, which are caused by blood leaking from tiny capillaries beneath the skin. Anti-Dark Circle Eye Gels can help to keep the face’s skin tone looking bright and even, for a healthy, youthful appearance. The ‘Vampire Sexy Man’ likes his skin to be pale and therefore desires personal care products that offer skin whitening and lightening properties as well as protection against the sun. Properties such as these are offered by the Daily Whitening Lotion, which absorbs quickly and is non-sticky. Du shi yu nan is a Chinese term used to describe metro sexual men in western countries;’ the ‘Metro Sexual Man’ is fashion conscious and very sensitive about the condition of his skin. Although men’s skin is a little thicker and oilier than female skin — and therefore ages at a slightly slower rate — their faces are more susceptible to external stresses, including razor burn from daily shaving. As such, soothing aftershave products such as the After Shave Balm for Sensitive Skin are an essential daily product for this type of man. ‘Flower Romantic Men’ wish their skin to be soft and smooth and are concerned about their appearance but prefer to use a single product rather than lots of individual care products and cosmetics. Combining multiple benefits with convenience, the Moisture & Radiance BB Cream is ideal for this type of man. The all-inone tinted moisturizer helps them to achieve an even skin tone and leaves the skin looking smooth and radiant.
2011 autumn
For more information
Yeah-Young Baek Marketing Personal Care Europe BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH yeah-young.baek@basf.com www.basf.com
15
hair care
d e s U y l e d i W t s e o v i M t s c ’ A d l o r o o p W m e a h h T S f f u r d n Antida e late ped in th lo e v e d s an T) was ione (ZnP en used a e th b ri y s p a h c Zin nd bial and andruff a antimicro d n f a o t s n a e s 1940 e treatm ay, ent for th ears. Tod g y a 0 l 5 a n g a n antifu ore th opper) atitis for m rm e d c and c ic in e z h , rr o m b iu e s ds (sod ne is compoun er pyrithio p e p n o io c th s; ri n py O) plicatio oxide (TBT many ap n ti in l d ty u e s ib u are ent for tr replacem d e rr fe re the p ts. uling pain fo ti n a e n in mari
A
s a result of their
broad spectrum of antimicrobial efficacy and proven ability to
prevent the growth of a variety of micro-organisms, other pyrithione salts are used in the preservation of fluids, such as mildewcides in wallboards, as in-can and dry-film preservatives in architectural paints and for odour control in textiles. Many other unexploited uses — such as the control of malaria parasites, the treatment of nail fungus and athlete’s foot, hand sanitization, wood preservation, cancer treatment and so on — can only increase the potential of pyrithiones to protect materials and benefit mankind. ZnPT was patented for use as an antidandruff agent in 1966 and has become the most widely used agent around the globe, present in
16
autumn 2011
most antidandruff and beauty
Discovery of ZPT
shampoos; there are in excess
In 1940, White reported that
of 400 patents covering its use
a strain of Aspergillus flavus,
in antimicrobial applications
growing in a tryptone-salt
and more than 250 of these are
medium, produced a highly
in the treatment of dandruff.
bactericidal filtrate that was
Other actives are ketoconazole,
later identified as containing
climbazole, octopirox, selenium
an active ingredient with
sulfide, coal tar and ciclipirox.
hydroxamic acid functionality
There is an ongoing
Dandruff Myths
There are several myths that surround dandruff: • those suffering from the condition have poor personal hygiene • dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are seasonal conditions • dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis treatments are susceptible to a rapid decrease in response following an initial benefit and thus require continued treatment • dandruff treatments cause loss of dye from colour-treated hair.
— later named aspergillic
technological evolution that
acid. Subsequent work
is improving the efficiency of
by several investigators
ZnPT in combating dandruff;
confirmed the structure of
Procter & Gamble’s Head and
aspergillic acid and many
Shoulders brand, the world’s
attempts (such as Dutcher
bestselling shampoo, contains
et al.) were successful in
potentiated ZnPT technology for
enhancing its production.
and zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) was
(recognized by USFDA as
greater antidandruff efficacy and
As the hydroxamic acid
found to be very efficacious as
Categor y I, GRAS and GRAE).
improved hair benefits and scalp
moiety was suspected to
an antifungal agent in treating
It is an off-white solid that is
health. The past few years have
be the functional group
the organism responsible
sparingly soluble in water (~10
seen the publication of several
responsible for the antibiotic
for dandruff. The Minimum
ppm) and has a MW of 317.7
reports indicating the formation of
activity of aspergillic acid,
Inhibitory Concentrations (MIC)
with a density of 1.8. Although
pyrithione compounds, including
and to act by chelating trace
versus Malassezia are around
ZnPT cr ystals can be made
ZnPT, in several plant species.
metals, it was thought that the
4–8 µg/mL. ZnPT (CAS Reg. No.
with various morphologies,
Considering their structural
replacement of an oxygen
13463-41-7, bis[1-hydroxy-2-(1H)-
the platelet form (Figure 2)
similarities with many naturally
atom with a sulfur atom would
pyridinethionato-O,S]-(T-4)-zinc),
is considered to be the most
formed hydroxamic acids, a
improve its activity. As such, a
is now the ‘gold standard’ in
effective as it can provide
situation in which pyrithione
pyrithione (PT) molecule with
antidandruff shampoos and
uniform coverage of the scalp
compounds are biosynthesized
a thiohydroxamic acid moiety
is used as the active in the
(with a high surface area
by plants as protective agents
was first synthesized in 1947 by
world’s leading products, such
per weight of the active).
to ward off fungal and bacterial
OLIN-Squibb chemists as a more
as Head & Shoulders, Clinic,
Formulation technologies
infections is not inconceivable.
potent antibiotic candidate.
Fructis, etc.
continue to improve, allowing
Arch Chemicals has secured
Although the pyrithione was
one of the plants purported
not found to be a stronger
industrially produced PT
deposition of the particles
to contain pyrithiones and
antibiotic than aspergillic acid,
antimicrobials have been
from shampoo matrix to scalp.
identified ZnPT (Figure 1) and
it was discovered to have a
successfully used by humans
The recent publication on the
other pyrithiones in the extracts
broad-spectrum antimicrobial
and for material preser vation
mode of action of ZnPT on
of Polyalthia nemoralis — a plant
effect against yeast, mould
for more than 50 years. ZnPT
yeast holds promise to even
that grows wild in certain regions
and bacteria. Various metal
is an OTC antidandruff agent
further enhance the efficacy
of China.
complexes were synthesized
that is both safe and effective
of this unique molecule.
Figure 1: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT).
Topically applied,
the ever more efficient
What is Dandruff?
Dandruff is a common scalp condition that affects more than 50% of the global population, regardless of gender or ethnicity. Considered to be a social stigma by some cultures, dandruff is aesthetically displeasing and often causes scalp itching. Its treatment is big business — the global market for antidandruff (AD) shampoos, led by Procter & Gamble, is estimated to be worth $6 billion per annum and AD shampoo is sold at a premium to others. The off-white flakes are more visible on black hair — one in two shampoos sold in China and other parts of Asia are AD shampoos; Asia, in its entirety (China, Indonesia, India, the Philippines and Malaysia), accounts for approximately 40% of the global market. In many parts of the world, the antidandruff shampoo is positioned as a beauty shampoo, a trend that is spreading to developing countries and requires both efficacy and improved hair quality. The market is growing at a rate of double digits in BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China), with China and India showing most growth. Dandruff manifests itself as an excess shedding of the scalp’s epidermal cells, which causes flaking. The epidermal layer of the scalp consists of dead cells that protect the more fragile cells below — in dandruff, larger ‘scales’ are shed at an increased rate. For people with dandruff, skin cells may mature and be shed in 2–7 days, as opposed to around 30 days in people without. The result is that dead skin cells are shed in large, oily clumps, which appear as white or greyish patches on the scalp, hair, skin and clothes. Dandruff can be caused by several factors, one of which is dry skin — a common cause of itchy, flaking dandruff. Flakes from dry skin are generally smaller and less oily than those from other causes of dandruff. Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis) is one of the most frequent causes and is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky white or yellow scales. Malassezia globosa and restricta (Figure 3) are the fungi most directly involved in the manifestation of dandruff. Malassezia organisms inhabit the scalp’s surface in most healthy adults without causing problems, living symbiotically with the human host. Malassezia enters the hair follicle in which its anaerobic metabolites increase the rate of epidermal cell division, causing sloughing and scaling. Sometimes it grows out of control, feeding on the oils secreted by hair follicles, which can irritate the skin on the scalp and cause more skin cells to grow. The extra skin cells die and fall off, clumping with oil from the hair and scalp, making them appear white and flaky in the hair or on clothes. Most often, this eruption is identical to or closely resembles seborrheic dermatitis. The scalp naturally produces oils called sebum that protect the hair and scalp, including triglycerides and fatty acids, which creates the ideal growing environment for Malassezia. The genome of M. globosa reveals that it is unable to make fatty acids, a key nutritional requirement of the organism, and instead obtains them from sebum. Individuals with an inborn tendency to have an inflammatory response (redness, itching) to fatty acids are prone to suffering from dandruff and dermatitis.
2011 autumn
17
hair care
The current research on ZnPT indicates that it can be formulated in antidandruff shampoos with enhanced bioavailability, mildness, aesthetics, delivery and retention Figure 4: Polyalthia nemoralis.
Figure 2: Malassezia fungus.
Figure 3: The platelet form of ZnPT.
dandruff skin are removed. In
and spoilage. The fact that it
addition, intercellular lipids that
has been used for more than
constitute a thick disorganized
50 years without any reports of
layer in dandruff skin become
adverse human reactions and
a thin organized layer. ZnPT has
without incidence of acquired
also been found to promote hair
antimicrobial resistance is
growth and may be beneficial
testament to the unique mode
in androgenic alopecia. It
of action and microbiological
reduces histamine levels (and
properties of this molecule.
thereby itching sensations)
Recent findings from DNA
and inflammation of the scalp,
microarrays, suggesting that
Antimicrobials from Plants
Polyalthia nonoralis A is used
works as a UVAB protectant and
ZnPT causes iron starvation to
to treat a variety of afflictions
provides antioxidant benefits
yeast organisms, can only help
It is recognized that plants
such as malaria, hepatitis,
as a result of the zinc it contains.
to enhance the recognized
produce more than 100,000
lymphadenitis, pneumonia and
Warren demonstrated that
efficacy of ZnPT even fur ther.
small molecules, most of which
syphilis. Samples of this plant
PTZ provides a supplementary
To conclude, ZnPT is a safe
have antimicrobial activity. This
were obtained and extracts of
benefit by reducing the
and effective ing redient
activity is often weak, many
the roots unequivocally display
surfactant induced expression
that provides a multitude
times less than that of the
the presence of ZnPT and other
of interleukin IL-1ι — surfactants,
of hai r and scalp benefits
antimicrobials produced by
pyrithione compounds as active
a principle component of all
in antidandr uff shampoos.
bacteria and fungi, but there
principles. Additional reports
cleansing products, are known
Fur ther more, the discover y
are some plants that produce
have indicated the presence
to cause irritancy, which can
of this molecule in several
antimicrobials at a high level
of pyrithione compounds in
exacerbate the dandruff
plant species allows ZnPT to
and offer protection to the
other species, namely drumstick
condition. The current
be synthetically produced
plant from pathogens.
onion (Allium stipitatum) and
research on ZnPT indicates
for the treatment of
a New Zealand mushroom
that it can be formulated in
dandr uff and other industr ial
ZnPT from Polyalthia nemoralis
(Basidomycetes).
antidandruff shampoos with
applications to be labelled
enhanced bioavailability,
as nature identical. PHM
Additional Benefits
mildness, aesthetics, delivery
There have been isolated
As well as being an effective
and retention.
reports from China during
and safe molecule for the
the past decade stating
treatment of dandruff-causing
Conclusions
that a plant used in herbal
micro-organisms, ZnPT also
ZnPT is an important molecule
medicine, which grows wildly
offers a multitude of benefits
for the treatment of many
in Guangdong and Hainan
to both scalp and hair. With
maladies and it is finding
province (Polyalthia nemoralis,
ZnPT treatments, the jagged
increasing use in the protection
Figure 4), contains significant
cell envelope in dandruff-
and preservation of a
amounts of pyrithione
affected skin becomes
range of materials against
A complete list of references to support this
compounds. In folk medicine,
smooth and lipids present in
antimicrobial deterioration
article is available from the author.
18
For more information
George Polson, PhD Director of Research and Innovation Arch Innovation and Technology Center gpolson@archchemicals.com www.archchemicals.com
autumn 2011
www.nutraceuticalmag.com
NUTRACEUTICAL
BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY
Where food and pharma meet
NBT is your musT-read source of News, updaTes aNd developmeNTs iN The fuNcTioNal food, NuTraceuTical, dieTary supplemeNT aNd iNgredieNT iNdusTry. www.nutraceuticalmag.com Probiotics Restoring the balance Claims under pressure
cosmetic Focus Marketing products in Southern Africa
Volume 7 Number 2
March/April 2011
Functional bakery, sPorts nutrition, cognitive HealtH and more
Women’s HealtH EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLES Supplementing the fairer sex
•
ingredients • functional foods • nutraceuticals • supplements • raw materials •
EXCLUSIVE EVENT See website for details on Awards and Exclusive Business Roundtabe
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EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLE
skincare
F
armers in many
modification, but do give breeders
developing countries
Naturally based cosmetics are currently the
are setting up fair
major growth area in the personal care
characteristics in a wider range
industry;
when looking for target traits such
trade cooperatives to better market
Organic
Monitor
recorded
that
the ability to seek specific of genetic material — important
their traditional oils, butters
global sales of organic and natural cosmetics
as elevated levels of beta glucan,
and botanical extracts, but the
reached $8.4 billion last year. The terms ‘natural,’
antioxidants or proteins useful for
agricultural crops of the modern Western world should not be
‘organic’ and ‘sustainable’ are much in
forgotten. Traceability, a proven
evidence in the media and major raw material
safety record, consistency of
cosmetics. This can lead to the development of specific varieties that are better suited to their
supply and well studied efficacy
exhibitions around the world are focussing
are just some of the reasons
heavily on this new and exciting movement.
conventional uses, for example
behind the rediscovery of these
Formulators and marketers alike are interested
high oil naked oats (Avena sativa,
ingredients. Oats (Avena sativa),
cosmetic applications than
sub nuda) for oil extraction. These
as a cereal crop grown in
in the possibilities that sustainable, renewable
varieties are grown using modern
countries such as Canada and in
materials can offer in the development of
production techniques — such
Europe, has been used as a case in point in this article. A cosmetic ingredient supplier marketing natural products from this type of source requires
new and interesting products; agricultural ingredients that are minimally processed by physical means, or chemically modified using
as precision drilling to ensure the correct number of seeds/m2 when planted — combined with nutrient applications that may be controlled within each field by
an extensive knowledge of
only ‘green’ processes, are what product
satellite mapping. Current varieties
crop production technology
developers require.
are much more disease resistant
and supply chain logistics, in
and modern combines are now
addition to the specific extraction
controlled by computer to cut the
process required to achieve the
crop as efficiently as possible while
target active. Once the correct
monitoring yield and quality. Many
molecule or, more likely, range of
companies contract growers to
molecules, has been extracted,
produce suitable crops. However,
it is then important to complete
as crop quality is dependent on
the necessary application assays
both land type and environmental
to prove its efficacy as a hair or
conditions, which alter on a
skin ingredient, together with the
seasonal basis, crops must be
required safety checks to ensure
grown in different locations and,
that it complies with current
if possible, different countries, to
legislation.
ensure the continuity of a quality
Major advances in genetic breeding that have occurred
raw material supply. Well known public concerns
in recent decades are the
surrounding the safety of
cornerstone of modern crop
food, in addition to the
production techniques in the
effect of agriculture on the
Western world. The genetic
environment, have led to the
map for many crops, including
imposition of legislative controls
oats, is at least partially known
on farmers; this has resulted
to the breeder, which allows for
in most European Countries
a more focussed breeding of
adopting schemes similar to
new varieties. None of these new
the Red Tractor Farm Assurance
breeding and crossing techniques
Combinable Crops & Sugar Beet
stray into the territory of genetic
Scheme, operating in the UK,
20
autumn 2011
which inspects and audits farms
centrifugation and tangential
to a known quality standard
membrane filtration.
addressing all aspects of crop production and storage.1 Crops
Oat Avenanthramides
grown for cosmetic use will also
Avenanthramides have been
be covered by this scheme,
shown to be the main group of
which provides a high degree
active oat antioxidants responsible
of traceability — back to the
for their anti-inflammatory,
production field — coupled with
anti-redness, anti-itch and anti-
a complete log of all activities
histamine properties.4, 5 They are
undertaken on that crop.
known to be effective at levels as
Companies will then test resultant
low as 5 ppm and are supplied
crops for quality and pesticide
as a glycerine based extract,
and heavy metal contamination.
suited to a wide variety of product
In the case of organic crops, the
ranges such as skin, hair and sun
producer must be registered in the
care as well as for baby products.
UK with licensed certifiers, such as
The ingredient is completely water
the Soil Association or the Organic
soluble and stable through pH 5–8,
Food Federation, who will conduct
making it ideal for water based
their own inspections to ensure
emulsions, creams, lotions and
that the organic standards are
detergent based systems.
maintained. However, for a number of reasons it will be very difficult
Oat Peptides
for some cosmetic ingredients to
Oat Peptides have outstanding
comply with these standards.
emulsifying and water binding
First, as organic crops tend to be
capacities and are another
of higher cost (mainly owing to their
active supplied as a water-
lower yield), the resultant extracted
based extract.6 They are small
active may be too expensive, or the
enough to be assimilated for effective interaction with key skin
limited number of production sites may not produce crops with the
requires careful planning and
Oat Oil
components, generating some
correct amount of active to process.
maximizing its efficiency and
Oat oil contains very high levels
impressive stimulating results
The type of extraction process and
effectiveness is a significant
of important natural antioxidants,
with fibroblast cells — this makes
the quantity of active extracted
challenge. Oat Cosmetics
as well as effective emulsifiers.2, 3 It
them an excellent alternative to
— approximately 200 ppm in the
scans a large number of oat
is also rich in essential fatty acids
synthetic peptides, offering good
case of oat avenanthramides —
crops in Europe to identify those
such as oleic and linoleic acid.
activity for antiageing skin care
may prevent its certification as
that are high in oil (genetically
The oil provides excellent softening
formulations at low cost.7
an extracted organic product. As
rather than environmentally
and smoothing actives for skin
an alternative, certification as a
controlled), protein
cosmetics, is ECOCERT certified
and carbohydrates and other
‘natural’ molecule under schemes
(environmentally controlled),
and particularly suited to creams,
undesirable naturally occurring
such as Ecocert, which will be
and avenanthramides, (thought
lotions and oil based formulations.
compounds removed, oat
harmonized under COSMOS by
to be both genetically and
2014, offer an alternative means
environmentally controlled), to
that remains after the oil’s
to hydrolysed proteins, such as
of providing assurance that the
find a suitable source material.
extraction may be shipped to
wheat, which are often more
production and processing of the
These crops are cleaned and
Oat Cosmetics’ partners, Ceapro
highly coloured, viscous and
certified active meets the agreed
pre-processed, before having
Inc. in Canada for the extraction
odourous . They also exhibit
natural and environmental criteria
their oil extracted by either
of the avenanthramides or oat
excellent foaming properties,
established by the schemes.
super-critical CO2 or an ethanolic
proteins, using technologies such
making them a useful addition
extraction (in which the ethanol
as aqueous alcohol extraction,
to shampoos, shower gels and
is derived from wood).
mechanical separation,
other surfactant based products.
The extraction of natural actives from a base crop
2011 autumn
The resultant defatted matrix
As the extract is highly purified
peptides are a useful alternative
21
skincare References
Alternatively, the defatted matrix
It can be utilized in surfactant
compared with hyaluronic acid.13
can be used to produce colloidal
based systems to provide very fine
Beta glucan can even be used
oatmeal and superfine oat flour.
exfoliating and skin buffing.
to form thin, water soluble films to
Colloidal Oatmeal
Superfine Oat Flour
active agents requiring enhanced
Probably the best known oat
Superfine oat flour offers a number
percutaneous transportation.
material, colloidal oatmeal is
of advantages when compared
defined by the United States
with other cereal flours and
completed a major report on
Pharmacopeial Convention
starches. Its starch granules are
the ‘naturalness’ of the product
and provides anti-inflammatory,
naturally extremely small, in the
formulations of a wide range of
anti-itch, antioxidant and
range of 2–11 μm, which creates
brands worldwide that market
protective properties that make
a smooth and silky feel on the
their products on a natural or
it a versatile cleanser, moisturizer
skin and has less tendency to
organic platform.14 It became
and buffer to soothe and protect
be opaque than other cereal
clear that some brands have
damaged skin.8 In 2003 colloidal
powders. Providing excellent
much work to do before they
oatmeal was recognized as a skin
absorptive properties, which could
achieve the levels of natural
protectant for the relief of a variety
contribute to the overall luminosity
content demanded by standards
of dermatoses by the FDA.9
of the skin, it is an effective material
agencies such as Ecocert,
in soft powder formulations as well
Greenlife or NaTrue to meet
as creams and lotions.
certification criteria. With a new
deliver the sustained release of
Its unique activity results from the complex composition of beta glucans (moisturizers and immuno-
It is inevitable that the
Organic Monitor recently
International Organization for
stimulants), avenanthramides
production of some ingredients
Standardization (ISO) standard
(anti-irritants), phenolics (UV
does not allow so complete
for natural and organic
absorbers) and saponins
a utilization of the total crop.
ingredients and products also
(cleansing agents). Colloidal
Oat beta glucan is such an
in preparation, the potential
oatmeal also demonstrates
example; the raw material
need for reformulation of many
excellent skin buffering properties
requires elevated levels of natural
current ‘natural’ products is
owing to its high protein content.10
beta glucan and the extraction
increasing.15 As a result, active, well
process involves the denaturing of
characterized, Ecocert certified
the other active molecules.
natural ingredients — such as those
Unlike conventional colloidal oatmeals, the Oat Cosmetics patent-applied-for process
offered by Oat Cosmetics and its
solubilizes the oat kernel to
Oat Beta Glucan
partners — will form a key part of
produce completely natural
Oat beta glucan is very different
any natural formulator’s palette.
oatmeal, without the requirement
in size and structure to yeast beta
to process the oats extensively.
glucan, causing it to be naturally
in some cases patent pending,
This allows the important active
water soluble and exhibit immuno-
raw materials can be used
phytochemicals, such as beta
stimulant properties. Relevant
to produce a wide range of
glucan, to become more
to personal care products, beta
products. The ingredients
bioavailable, thus increasing
glucan boasts the ability to
provide formulators with
their effectiveness.11 Colloidal
induce cellular activities that
the opportunity to replace
Oatmeal can be easily
lead to the restructuring of skin,
synthetic, petrochemically
incorporated into emulsions as a
resulting in a reduction of fine lines
derived ingredients and
skin feel ingredient and the oat
and wrinkles.12 It has also been
produce natural products with
actives it contains can also supply
shown to provide better short and
the same — and potentially
excellent anti irritant functionality.
long term hydration of the skin
better — functionality. PHM
22
These scientifically studied, and
1. www.redtractor.org.uk 2. Dr M. Cetin, et al., “Antioxidant Effects of Oat Oil and its Fractions,” Lipid/Fett 92(8), 319–321 (1990). 3. B.J. Dull, “Oat Oil for Personal-Care, Products,” Cosmetics and Toiletries, 112(1), 77–81 (1997). 4. R. Sur, et al., “Avenanthramides, Polyphenols from Oats that Exhibit Anti-Inflammation and Anti-Itch Activity” Arch Dermatol Res 300, 569–574 (2008). 5. G . Schmaus, et al., “Oat Avenanthramides – New Actives to Reduce Itch Sensation in Skin,” Proceedings of the 23rd IFSCC International Congress Poster I95 (2004). 6. F. Gafner, et al., “Oat-Based Complex Stimulates Skin Barrier Protein Synthesis and Reducing Skin Aging,” IFSCC Magazine, 11(3), 217–23 (2008). 7. “Oat Peptides: Rejuvenating Collagen Producing Cells Naturally,” Next Step Laboratories, http:// www.nextsteplab.com/images/ Oat_Peptides_Brochure.pdf. 8. U nited States Pharmacopeial Convention Monographs, “Colloidal Oatmeal,” USP32-NF27, 2024. 9. “ Skin Protectant Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use: Final Monograph,” 68FR33362 (2003). 10. E.S. Kurtz, et al., “Colloidal Oatmeal: History, Chemistry and Clinical Properties,” J Drugs Dermatol. 6(2), 167–170 (2007). 11. F innish Patent Application No. 20115758. 12. R . Pillai et al., “Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan,” IFSCC Magazine 1, (2005). 13. R . Pillai, et al “1-3 1-4-Beta-Glucan with Excellent Moisturising and AntiAging Properties,” Symrise (2004). 14. Organic Monitor Ltd, “Natural and Organic Cosmetics Brand Assessment 2011,” www.organicmonitor.com. 15. ISO/NP 16128 Cosmetics — Technical Definitions and Criteria for ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ Ingredients and Products — Under Development, http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/ catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail. htm?csnumber=55725.
For more information Angus Robertson Oat Cosmetics Tel. +44 7713 077 646 ar@oat.co.uk www.oat.co.uk
autumn 2011
A Stroke of Genius Two days of technical seminars and presentations, plus the largest exhibition of its kind in the UK. A chance to brush up on your knowledge, immerse yourself in innovation, find inspiration, consider market trends, solve answers to technical challenges and discover new ways to enhance your competitive edge. For complete coverage, register online NOW at www.scsformulate.co.uk SCS Formulate – for everything you need to know…and more.
15–16 November 2011
Ricoh Arena, Coventry
advertorial
A Friend to Skin and Environment Growing environmental awareness among consumers has led to strong demand for personal care products that are simultaneously safe for the environment and beneficial for the user — in other words, mild to both skin and nature. This trend is reflected by a steadily increasing number of raw materials made from sustainably derived vegetable sources, a trend addressed by Cremer Care’s offering of vegetable-derived personal care ingredients. This has recently been built on by the launch of a completely new range of esters based on vegetable-derived fatty acids, reacted with alcoholic components (also sourced from vegetable origin) such as glycerol, polyglycerol and 1,3-propanediol. These products act as emollients, emulsifiers, moisturizers or solubilizers. Many Cremer Care products are certified by ECOCERT Greenlife as organic raw materials derived from sustainable agriculture; examples include organic glycerol, organic MCTs and a range of organic oil components. A surfactant range based on organic fatty acids is also in development in response to customer demand for organic surfactants that meet the criteria for certification as organic raw materials. CremerCOOR PG4 cocoate organic is the first nonionic surfactant made from Cremer Care organic C12-C18 fatty acid (92% organic content as certified by ECOCERT Greenlife). It is produced by esterification with polyglycerol-4 that is derived by oligomerization from vegetable glycerin. 100% of the ingredients are of natural origin, based on vegetable raw materials, and 38% are the result of organic farming. The product acts as a co-surfactant, offering moisturizing, conditioning/refatting, foam enhancing and solubilizing benefits in combination with any other anionic, nonionic or cationic surfactant. It is also possible to incorporate it in a range of liquid personal care products, such as shower gels and shampoos, to improve sensation on skin, mildness and foam characteristics, and to ease the formulation of hydrophobic ingredients, including fragrances or oil components. In addition, it mitigates the known disadvantages of soap — sensibility towards water hardness, an unpleasant skin feeling and the deposition of insoluble calcium soaps. A very simple formulation — for example, 30% Cremersap LS 30 (a 30% active liquid potassium soap based on organic fatty acids) plus 10% CremerCOOR PG4 cocoate organic — yields a mild hand soap with a creamy lather and pleasant skin after feel. The blend may be utilized as a low viscosity product in a foam dispenser or thickened with any conventional viscosity enhancer as desired.
For more information Odile Grahl, Marketing Manager, Cremer Care Tel. +49 4032 011 245 — o.grahl@cremer-gruppe.com — www.cremer-care.de
24
skincare
Avena sativa — more commonly known as oats — have formed a staple part of the human diet for many hundreds of years. Widely recognized as one of the healthiest grains, a bowl of porridge oats for breakfast provides a simple yet satisfying and nutrient packed way to start the day. For many years, oats were considered to be rather dull and old fashioned, but they have recently undergone a remarkable image transformation and porridge is now a firm favourite on the breakfast menus of a range global restaurant giants, from McDonald’s to Starbucks.
M
uch of this
technological advances that
grown by local farmers, it is
surge in
have occurred since then, it is
produced using a patented,
popularity
no longer necessary to bathe
chemical free technology to
is owed to
in oats! Oat beta glucan has
separate the beta glucan from
the positive
now been identified as the oat’s
the other components of the oat.
consumer perception of the
‘magic’ component, responsible
health benefits of oats; lower
for the soothing, anti-irritant,
production methods such
cholesterol, heart health and
moisturizing and rejuvenating
as these should not be
steady, sustained energy release
qualities that are associated
underestimated; other, previous
being just three that are well
with the use of oats in skincare.
attempts to isolate oat beta
understood. Furthermore, the
Even more exciting is recent
glucan have relied on the use
associated health message is
research showing that oat beta
of harsh chemicals — hardly
evolving from “oats are good for
glucan molecules are able to
what consumers seek in a
you” to “the soluble fibre in oats
penetrate to the deepest levels
product that purports to be
is good for you.”
of the skin, where they interact
‘natural.’ In contrast, Avenacare
with cells to stimulate the
is naturally separated from the
polysaccharide known as beta (β)
synthesis of collagen. This results
oat bran without the use of
glucan, found in oat bran.
in an antiageing effect with a
chemicals, resulting in a pure,
Numerous research studies have
noticeable reduction in fine lines
unadulterated ingredient that
demonstrated its efficacy and it
and wrinkles, in addition to an
can truly claim to be green and
is approved by regulatory health
acceleration of the healing of
environmentally friendly.
bodies around the world, such
wounds and burns.
This soluble fibre is a
as the FDA and EFSA, for health
Cosmetics and personal care companies are now able to
claims relating to cholesterol
a Swedish company specializing
develop a broad spectrum of
reduction and heart health. The
in the fractionation of cereal
oat based products, ranging
combination of substantiated
grains, launched Avenacare, a
from antiageing creams to
health benefits and natural
liquid form of oat beta glucan.
lotions that soothe skin irritations.
credentials has proven to be
An exciting development for the
If used in conjunction with foods
very powerful and it is no surprise
personal care and cosmetics
that contain oat beta glucan, it
that the popularity of oats is now
sectors, it provides formulators
won’t be long before we’re all
crossing over into the cosmetics
with an affordable and easy to
looking healthier on the inside
and personal care space.
use form of oat beta glucan,
and outside! PHM
The use of oats to benefit the
26
Earlier this year, Biovelop AB,
The importance of natural
opening up what had previously
body’s exterior as well as its
been a niche and prohibitively
inside is not a new phenomenon
expensive ingredient to a much
— there is evidence to suggest
wider market. In addition, the
that oats have been used in
product addressed current
skincare for more than 4000
trends and consumer demand
years; some time before they
for natural products with
became known as a food.
substantiated benefits. Derived
Luckily, thanks to the exciting
from non-GMO, Swedish oats
For more information
David Peters Director of Sales and Marketing Biovelop AB Tel. +46 11 253 632 dp@biovelop.com www.biovelop.com
autumn 2011
210x149_PURE_Health.indd 1
LAUNCH EVENT
25.02.11 14:4
18th April BArcelonA
2011 autumn
27
skincare
It is important that the growth in popularity of dermocosmetics — defined in 2005 as cosmetic applications that cover both dermatological and pharmaceutical aspects — is accompanied by an awareness of their intended function: to address the concerns of atopic and sensitive skin. Although pathological skin diseases must be treated by a physician, cosmetics companies do have options available when it comes to creating products for the sensitive skin market. One such possibility is the use of natural, naturally derived or nature-identical active ingredients that actually support the regeneration of atopic and sensitive skin and improve its overall wellbeing. The use of these active ingredients enables dermocosmetics to unite the very real need to take care of sensitive skin with the current consumer desire for ‘natural skincare.’ This article explores a selection of conditions and demonstrates the role that dermocosmetics can play in addressing them.
W
support, protection from harmful
reaction and a decreased skin
Common Ground in Sensitive Skin: Dryness
Despite the
barrier function.2, 3 However, not
As a rule, atopic and sensitive skin
study even demonstrates that
American
all ingredients on the market are
that requires extra regenerative
moisture provided by RonaCare
Academy of Dermatology’s
equally as effective at treating
support is always dry. Other
Ectoin is accumulated and still
statement that it affects millions
each symptom. Moreover,
disorders, such as diabetes, can
detectable in the skin seven days
of people, the definition varies
manufacturers cannot make
also dry skin and cause it to wrinkle
after application.
depending on who is asked, with
specific drug claims for treating
more quickly. Any dermocosmetic
some reports claiming that as
specific conditions; claims used
product made for a specific
Diabetic Skin
many as 30–50% of women suffer
in cosmetic products designed
condition should therefore
Diabetes is often linked to a
from it. What we do know is that
for dermocosmetics are restricted
make moisturizing a top priority.
higher risk of skin infections,
there are four distinct types of
to ‘cleansing,’ ‘soothing’ and
RonaCare Ectoin from Merck
increased skin dryness and a
sensitive skin — acne, rosacea,
‘moisturizing’ — which is why
overcomes this ‘extra moisture’
specific skin ageing scenario.4
burning and stinging, and contact
we see ‘sensitive skin’ used as a
challenge with ease; not only
Dermocosmetics designed for
dermatitis (which covers allergies
generic description. In fact, this
does it maintain and trap the skin’s
diabetics can, through the use of
and irritants) — all of which share
term also applies to skin conditions
natural moisture, it is one of the best
antioxidants, strengthen the skin
the characteristic of inflammation.1
such as psoriasis and diabetic skin
ways to stimulate cells’ protective
barrier function and maintain
Atopic skin demonstrates a high
(skin complaints linked to diabetes).
properties, such as immune system
skin elasticity, which also helps to
28
hat precisely
neuro-sensoric component,
is sensitive
an increased immunological
skin?
radiation and mitochondrial DNA safeguards. In fact, one
autumn 2011
delay the skin ageing process. RonaCare
The term ‘dermocosmetics’ is now likely
Isoquercetin, a natural bioflavonoid from
to function as an adverb accompanying a
Merck, prevents collagen fibres from
brand name and several organizations (such
bonding and protects skin lipids from
as Pierre Fabre and its brand Avene) choose
oxidation. It also stops protein glycation,
to describe themselves as dermocosmetic
a process that produces compounds in
companies. Such companies, labelling their
the skin to accelerate wrinkle formation.
ranges as advanced product lines, offer dermocosmetic skincare that soothes and
Rosacea
protects sensitive skin. Generally speaking,
Although a chronic skin disorder,
sensitive skin requires special care and
rosacea can be triggered by
pampering. Formulators will find what
multiple, individual factors as diverse
they are looking for in Merck’s portfolio of
as UV radiation and spicy food. Its
cosmetic ingredients, several of which are
manifestation is often increased skin
a natural and safe way to create innovative
redness, mainly around the cheeks and
products that care for sensitive skin and
nose, as well as burst blood vessels in the
restore its natural, beautiful appearance. PHM
face.5, 6 Dermocosmetics can help by keeping skin irritation to a minimum and boosting microcirculation. RonaCare Troxerutin, a lower strength antioxidant, is a natural bioflavonoid that partly inhibits mediators of inflammation from forming while inhibiting lipoxygenase — an enzyme involved in allergic and inflammatory diseases — producing a soothing effect on sensitive skin. Other natural ingredients known to offer relief for rosacea include chamomile and green tea extract.
Psoriasis An inherited and inflammatory skin disease, psoriasis develops when skin cells grow too rapidly, causing skin to become red and often flake. In this case, the right dermocosmetic products will minimize flaking and inflammation while delivering added moisture.7, 8 RonaCare Tiliroside, another natural bioflavonoid can help to restore the natural balance of skin. This substance boasts some powerful anti-inflammatory properties — it prevents skin overreactions, reduces visible redness caused by UV radiation and inhibits histamine release.
Acne One of the myths surrounding acne has
References
1. http://www.aad.org/ media-resources/stats-and-facts/ prevention-and-care/sensitive-skin 2. Z.D. Draelos, “Cosmetic Selection in the Sensitive-Skin Patient,” Dermatologic Therapy 14(3), 194–199 (2001). 3. Z.D. Draelos, Cosmetic Dermatology: Products & Procedures, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 4. http://www.abbott-diabetes-care.de/ diabetes.html 5. J. Bikowski, “Rosacea Regimens,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, WileyBlackwell (2010). 6. http://rosacea.dermis.net/ content/e01geninfo/e02pathogenesis/ index_ger.html 7. http://www.psoriasis-bund.de/ ueber-psoriasis/ 8. S.R. Feldman, et al. “Psoriasis Regimens,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 9. E.M. Graber, et al. “Over-the-Counter Acne Treatments,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 10. http://www.acne.com/ 11. http://altmedicine.about.com/od/ teatreeoil/a/teatreeoilacne.htm
finally been put to rest: it is not caused by fatty or sweet foods, but by oily skin and high levels of bacteria.9, 10 There are various dermocosmetics for the treatment of acne already on the market. Many, however, contain man made active ingredients such as antibiotics and retinoids. Natural ingredients must be used with care; tea tree oil, for example, can provide effective relief for acne, but coconut oil and avocado can exacerbate it.11
2011 autumn
For more information Dr Lilia Heider Global Technical Services Manager Cosmetic Actives and Pigments Merck KGaA Frankfurterstr. 250 64293 Darmstadt Germany Tel: +49 6151 729 316 lilia.heider@merckgroup.com www.merckgroup.com
Go east. Meet us at in-cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, E50 November 2-4, 2011
formulation and innovation
Holy Grail or Marketing Buzzword? In today’s competitive market, making claims for a product as cutting-edge not only demands pleasant textures, an elegant feel and innovative branding but, above all, effectiveness. In its search for the ‘Holy Grail’ ingredient, the cosmetic industry has always benefited from a clear input from other fields, such as nutrition and pharmaceuticals. Recent progress in understanding skin physiology and biochemistry, as well as the advantages offered by novel technologies, synthetic chemistry and biotechnology, has resulted in the introduction of one of the most significant and innovative groups of bioactive ingredients — peptides — to the industry.
T
he in-vitro benefits of
amino acids. If the amino acids
Signal Peptides
factors, transmembrane, matrix
applying peptides
number less than 50 the molecules
Signal peptides (also known as
and heat shock proteins.
to the skin were
are named peptides — larger
transit peptides) are usually formed
discovered during
sequences are referred to as
of short chain amino acids and
Carrier Peptides
wound healing
proteins. In a peptide molecule,
play the role of directing a protein
The name ‘carrier peptides’ refers
research, in which the compounds
the amino acids are coupled
to its site of action; they can
to those peptides that act as
demonstrated beneficial effects
by a peptide bond, in which the
increase elastin, proteoglycan,
facilitators in the transportation
on skin components, particularly
nitrogen atom of one amino
glycosaminoglycans and
of important substances, such
collagens and fibroblasts. The
acid binds to the carboxyl
fibronectin proliferation. Increasing
as trace elements (Cu and Mn),
commercial potential of exploiting
carbon atom of another. Amino
matrix cell activities — and
to the skin and are recognized
the enhanced biological activity
acids — the building block for
consequently collagen production
as necessary factors for wound
of such compounds within the
peptides and proteins — are small
— results in the skin appearing
healing and enzymatic
cosmetic industry was soon
molecules composed of an amine
firmer and younger. This group
processes. Examples include short
realized and numerous products
group (NH3), a carboxylic acid
includes ‘penta-peptides,’ widely
arginine-rich intracellular delivery
with the aim of improving the
(CooH) group and a variable
promoted for topical applications,
peptides that facilitate the
condition of ageing skin were
side chain (R) (Figure 1). There are
which are formed of five amino
transport of various proteins into
launched. This short review will
20 common amino acids that make
acids. Their short amino acid
living cells. Investigation suggests
focus on clarifying the definition
up almost all proteins and peptides.
sequence — lysine–threonine–
that such peptides could serve
Peptides have an advantage
threonine–lysine–serine — is a
as carriers in topical and/or
of peptides, categorizing their indications in cosmetics based on
over proteins in that their
sub-fragment of type I collagen
transdermal drug delivery and
their mechanism of actions and
mechanism of action inhibits
propeptide and possesses
stimulate the protein penetration
the challenges that may impede
or stimulates specific receptors.
the ability to enhance dermal
even without fusion between
their efficacy.
When tracing their applications in
remodelling by triggering cellular
carrier peptide and protein.
cosmetics, it is helpful to categorize
processes, such as the inhibition
What is a Peptide?
them in five major groups: signal
of the activity of collagenases
The terms peptides, amino acids
peptides, enzyme inhibitors
and the increase of extracellular
Neurotransmitter Inhibitor PeptideS
and proteins are, confusingly,
peptides, neurotransmitter
matrix production (such claims are
Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides
frequently used alongside and in
peptides, antioxidant peptides
supported by an in-vitro study).
inhibit the release of acetylcholine
place of each other; it is helpful,
and carrier peptides.
Another example of this group
at the neuromuscular junction
therefore, to clearly define them.
is valine-glycine-valine-alanin-
and have curare-like effect.
A peptide (from the Greek word
proline-glycerin, which down-
There are seven types (A–G)
‘digested’) is a molecule formed
regulates elastin expression and
of botulinum toxin that target
by the joining of two or more
promotes the chemotaxis of
peripheral cholinergic neurons
fibroblast in vitro. An alternative
and cause differing durations of
peptide, tyrosine-tyrosine-arginine-
neuromuscular paralysis. Type A
alanine-aspartame-aspartame-
toxin proteolytically degrades the
alanine inhibits procollagen
SNAP-25 protein, which is required
C proteinase (an enzyme that
for the release of neurotransmitters
cleaves C-propeptides from
from the axon endings. Botulinum
procollagen-1) and thereby
toxins specifically cleave these
decreases collagen breakdown.
SNAREs, preventing neurosecretory
Peptamide-6, a firming peptide
vesicles from docking or fusing
that is biotechnologically derived
with the nerve synapse plasma
from saccharomyces yeast
membrane and releasing
fermentation, increases collagen
their neurotransmitters. An
synthesis and up-regulates growth
example of this group is Acetyl
30
autumn 2011
Figure 1: Basic structure of an amino acid.
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
partition coefficient octanol/water
well designed in-vivo studies with
peptide with significantly less
between 1 and 3, reasonable
adequate sample sizes. To reach
toxicity (2000 mg/kg) than BTX-A
Enzyme inhibitor peptides are
aqueous solubility (>1 mg mL) and
real conclusions about their
(20 ng/kg). Pentapeptide-18
those that directly or indirectly
no or few polar centres.
efficacy and evaluate their safety
(Leuphasyl) mimics the natural
inhibit or decrease enzyme
The large number of amine
profile randomized, double-blind,
mechanism of enkephalins
activity. Naturally extracted
bonds present as hydrogen bond
active-controlled large trials with
and as a result inhibits neuronal
soybean protein, which inhibits
donor and acceptor groups
statistically meaningful sample sizes
activity and catecholamine
the formation of secondary
in peptides, in addition to their
are needed.
release. Pentapeptide-3 (Vialox),
proteinases that may induce
large molecular size, causes them
a synthetic peptide that is a
skin inflammatory reactions
to exhibit low diffusivity in skin.
that products are formulated
competitive antagonist at the
and damage the skin barrier, is
Furthermore, as they are often
to be economically viable as
acetylcholine receptors, safely
frequently used in cosmetics. Rice
charged at physiological pH, they
well as effective. Peptides of
blocks the sodium ion release
peptidesis, another natural protein,
are intrinsically hydrophilic; as such
defined sequence and high purity
at the synaptic membrane on
inhibits matrix metalloproteinase
the lipophilic stratum corneum
(90%) are usually expensive to
muscles so that they cannot
activity and induces the expression
can be a significant barrier to
produce; those used in cosmetics
contract as frequently.
of the hyaluronan synthase 2
penetration. To tackle this issue
are commonly manufactured
gene in keratinocytes, which may
and increase their lipophilicity,
synthetically by sequencing
Antioxidant Peptides
result in moisturizing properties.
many peptides are coupled with
individual amino acids as building
Evidence gained through
An additional example is an
fatty acid groups. For example, a
blocks. However, the employment
advances in peptide research
Angiotensin Converting Enzyme
palmitoyl derivative demonstrated
of biotechnology methods such as
indicates that many endogenous
(ACE) Inhibitor, derived from egg
penetration across human skin that
fermentation can allow peptides
peptides work to stabilize radicals
white, which has exhibited high
was five to six fold greater than that
to be extracted from some protein
and neutralize other non-radical
radical scavenging properties.
of the simple peptide. Nevertheless,
hydrolysates, particularly from
there is much room for improvement
natural sources. The extremely high
hexapeptide-3, a synthetic
oxidizing species. Glutathione
Although the efficacy of
Last but not least, it is crucial
(γ-glutamyl-cysteyl-glycine), a
cosmeceutical peptides may not
in the permeability coefficient of
potency of the peptides (p.p.m
tripeptide GSH — one of the first
be as rigorously tested as those
major cosmeceutical peptides —
level) produced in this manner
peptides to be discovered —
used in drugs, the evidence to
this must be addressed by further
may well compensate for the
may be classified as part of this
support their use in cosmetics is
research.
associated costs and facilitates
group. The level of glutathione
growing. The incorporation of
concentration in the body
peptides in cosmetic products,
limited chemical stability and their
considerably decreases with age,
however, can be challenging;
structure may change as a result of
triggering an increase in free
skin penetration, stability, toxicity,
a vehicle’s pH. When incorporating
formulation challenges, peptides
radical damage. Another recent
analysis and cost can all be
a peptide into a conventional
have become popular, widely
source of antioxidant peptides
obstacles. For a topical product to
cosmetics product, hydrolysis and
used active ingredients, particularly
to be discovered is based on
be efficient it is imperative that the
structural changes are probable
in high end market products, and
hydrolysing gelatine; peptides
right concentration of the active
outcomes, the longer peptides
are deserving of further research
derived from tryptic hydrolysate
is delivered to the appropriate
demonstrating the most fragile
to dispel the ambiguities in their
of jumbo squid (Dosidicus gigas)
site of action. Furthermore, the
structures. Although the choice of
cosmeceutical applications. PHM
skin gelatine, for example, were
permeation ability of an active
excipients and stabilizers can help to
assessed in different invitro
depends a variety of factors, such
overcome this obstacle, the question
assay systems to establish their
as its physicochemical properties,
of peptide stability in a final product
antioxidant properties. The
molecular size, stability, binding
should be addressed and analysed
hydrolysate itself exhibited a strong
affinity, solubility and partition
by validated analytical methods.
lipid peroxidation inhibition that
coefficient. The ideal conditions
was much higher than that of the
are a molecular weight of less
frequently used in antiageing
natural antioxidant, α-tocopherol.
than 500 Da, a moderate log of
products, some do not have any
2011 autumn
Unfortunately, peptides have
Although topical peptides are
their employment, in efficient levels, in all types of skincare formulas. In conclusion, despite
For more information
Dr Mojgan Moddaresi m.moddaresi@gmail.com A full list of references and suggested further reading are available from the author.
31
regional report
BEAUTY and When data from the Chamber of Latin American Cosmetics (CASIC) revealed that 2010’s beauty product sales in Latin America totalled $54 billion and accounted for a 15.3% share of the global market, it was interpreted by many as a sign that the region is building momentum to dominate the global beauty market. The most recent global economic instability resulted in only a slight drop in consumer demand, which now continues to surge dramatically. However, although it is true that Latin America is the region that has made, and will continue to make, the most considerable contribution to the growth of the global cosmetic and toiletries market, it is unlikely to dominate the global beauty market in the near future.
I
t is also true that the
declined. After experiencing a 0.8% decline in 2009, sales of
Brazil Market Assessment
Unstoppable: Natura
market leaders in the cosmetics and toiletries
cosmetics and toiletries in the US
With its political stability, consumer
sales company that develops,
sector — Japan and the
finally rebounded by 2.4%, which,
demand, economic development
manufactures and distributes
United States — show
according to Kline’s Cosmetics
and increasing disposable income,
cosmetics, fragrances and toiletries
very little market growth, in
and Toiletries 2010 report,
in addition to a growing workforce
and is recognized as the leader in
the range of 1–2%, owing to
brought sales slightly above
size and a high incidence of women
the sustainable utilization of Brazil’s
the maturity of their markets
prerecession levels to reach
in the total labour force, Brazil stands
native biodiversity in its products.
and the negative impact
$36.5 billion in 2010. The same
out among global economies.
The company has operations in
of the economic crisis. This
report projects that dollar sales
The largest segment in the Brazilian
Argentina, Chile, Peru, Mexico and
is in comparison with Latin
will increase at a compound
cosmetics market is hair care,
Colombia, although 95% of its net
America’s 10% growth in 2010.
annual growth rate of 2.9%,
responsible for 31% of total market
sales are generated in Brazil,
These estimates would have
predicting that the US market will
sales, followed by deodorants/
and registered net revenues of
been even higher if projected in
exceed $42 billion by 2015. The
antiperspirants at 19.5%, skincare
$5.1 billion in 2010. Its distribution
local currency, as the dollar has
Chinese market, which aims to
at 17.5%, fragrances at 16.0%, oral
occurs primarily by means of a
lost much of its value. In terms
be a strong industry contestant
care at 8.5% and makeup at 8.0%.
single tier system of direct sales;
of regional comparison, the size
and reached RMB 130 billion
Hair care is one of the most mature
it competes in the door-to-door
of Latin America’s market is far
in sales in 2009 (according to
product classes in the country
sales channel with Avon, but is
removed from those of North
data from the National Bureau
and the average consumer uses
considered to be the hands-
America, Europe and Asia;
of Statistics), should not be
at least shampoo and some sort
down best direct sales franchise
however, if one considers Latin
overlooked. China’s economic
of conditioner on a regular basis.
in Brazil. Natura’s ability to grow
America’s strongest player,
growth in 2008 was also hindered
Hair is one of the most appreciated
and generate consistent cash
Brazil — which accounts for
by the global recession, but a
aspects of beauty in Brazil, resulting
flow, combined with its financial
more than 50% of the Latin
strong recovery, which lifted
in a great expansion in the sale of
stability, even in adverse Brazilian
American market — it is possible
GDP growth, helped to boost
products, such as shampoos and
macroeconomic circumstances,
to see a perfect candidate for
cosmetics sales.
conditioners, which improve its
its strong distribution system and
appearance and health. Brazilian
its compelling branding and
the beauty market primacy.
Our estimates indicate that
Natura is a Brazilian direct
Brazil posted the world’s highest
the Brazilian market will grow
consumers are particularly open to
innovation differentiate the firm
cosmetics and toiletries market
on average by about 8.5% per
experimenting with new products
from its competition.
growth rate of 29% in 2 years
year during the next 5–10 years,
in different categories, which has
(taking the exchange rate
which will likely be enough to
resulted in skincare — spurred by
effect into consideration), its
surpass Japan in 1 or 2 years.
an influx of new customers, the
Ubiquitous: Direct Sales
sales growing from $14 billion in
This will, however, depend on
launch of better value products
There are a number of factors
2008 to $18 billion in 2010.
two major factors: the economic
and an ageing population
that explain the success of the
crisis in Japan and the currency
seeking more sophisticated
direct sales channel in Brazil, one
cosmetics and toiletries market,
rate paths in both countries.
solutions — becoming the fastest
of which is the job opportunities
second only to the United States
Although the Latin American
growing category. Global
it offers. For many years Brazil
and Japan; moreover, whereas
market may surpass North
companies command 48% of the
faced high unemployment rates
the Brazilian market has been
America in terms of size by 2015,
concentrated Brazilian market, of
— a job climate that favoured
growing by more than 14% per
Brazil as an individual country
which 67% is accounted for by the
businesses such as direct direct
year (in local currency), those
will in all probability remain
top ten players, the top three being
sales, which created excellent
of the US and Japan have both
behind the US.
Unilever, Natura and Avon.
business opportunities for women
Today, Brazil is the third largest
32
autumn 2011
and thereby offered families
the expanding middle class has
additional income. Generally,
boosted overall cosmetics and
the warm and friendly nature of
toiletries growth, priming the
Brazilians results in a preference
market for the blossoming of
for supporting friends’ businesses
natural product sales.
with their purchases. Added to a means to deliver the sensory
Growth and Demographics
experience that is so important
Stable and ‘controlled’ economic
in the selling of cosmetics
growth, inflation levels of about
and toiletries. This popularity is
5% per year, upward social
compounded by the fact that
migration, increasing disposable
Brazilian consumers feel excluded
income and growing consumer
from ‘traditional’ high-end stores.
demand contribute to Brazil’s
this predisposition, direct sales are
perpetual high growth. This has
Natural?
been compounded by the
Natura is also a key participant
‘demographic bonus’ — a period
in Brazil’s natural personal care
during which about two thirds of
market — the world’s third largest
the population are concentrated
— which has ballooned at a 20%
in the productive age bracket
compound average growth
of between the ages of 15 and
rate since 2005. This growth
64 — it has been experiencing
can in part be attributed to the
since 1990. This demographic
heavy influence of Natura and
phenomenon has been identified
another local giant, O Boticário,
by researchers David Bloom and
which together command an
Jeffrey Williamson of Harvard
overwhelming majority of the
University as chiefly responsible for
market share. The richness of
a third of the economic growth of
Brazil’s biodiversity, particularly the
the so-called Asian tigers between
flora of the Amazon region, is a
1965 and 1990.
key driver of this segment’s growth;
Demographic change in Brazil
many well known ingredients are
is expected to favour growth and
already being investigated for
shape demand in both durable
their cosmetic properties and
and non-durable goods; this will
the increasing supply of locally
also be true for the hygiene and
sourced raw materials causes
beauty product market. More
natural products to be more
mature and wealthier consumers
affordable and accessible for
will be increasingly inclined to
consumers. However, according
spend greater amounts of money
to Kline’s analyses of the natural
for additional convenience,
standing of brands — evaluated
comfort and a better standard
on a scale of 1–10, where 1
of service, which accords
indicates the smallest amount of
with forecasts anticipating
natural ingredients and 10 signifies
the continued growth of the
an almost complete natural
Brazilian market — although it
content — the Brazilian natural
predicts that some categories
personal care market leans heavily
will benefit more than others.
to the naturally inspired; that is,
In addition to the factors
towards the lower end of the
already discussed, it is
scale. This is a result of domestic
important to note that, as a
manufacturers marketing regular
result of economic growth
cosmetic and toiletry products as
and government ‘stimuli’
natural and thereby increasing
directed at the poorest
the size of the natural inspired
of the population,
segment. Furthermore, the
the middle class
cultural acceptance of natural
income continues
products makes it easier for
to grow; there
manufacturers to make the natural
will be more
‘pitch’ to consumers who, by and
consumers in the
large, already appreciate their
marketplace than
associated benefits. Meanwhile,
ever before. PHM
2011 autumn
For more information
Sérgio Rebêlo Managing Director Factor de Solução The Kline Group Tel. +55 11 3079 0792 sergio_rebelo@klinegroup.com
33
green chemicals
Tamarind is considered to be one of the most beautiful trees growing in the South-East of Asia. Also edible, its young pods are used both for nutrition and for manufacturing spices.1 The origins of its name lie in the Arabic words tamar (date) and hindi (Indian) and by 1500 its theraputic values were known in Europe where it was employed as a laxative, a long lasting traditional use that qualifies it as safe and well tolerated.
T
he tamarind seed has
product on one half of the face
by the positive reference. Finally,
a high polysaccharide
and a positive reference control
Xilogel’s performance was able
this data is that Xilogel forms
content, the most
(the same formulation in which
once more to compete with
a long lasting film on the skin
abundant of which
Xilogel was substituted with Sodium
Sodium Hyaluronate, improving
which, owing to the branched
is a branched
Hyaluronate) on the other.
skin density (measured by
structure of the polysaccharide,
echogenicity) by 7.9%.
and despite its lower molecular
polysaccharide with a cellulose-
Instrumental measurements of
The hypothesis supported by
type backbone (β-(1-4)D-glucose)
the hydration, elasticity, roughness
carrying xylose and galactoxylose
and denseness/echogenicity of
In-Vitro Trials
skin hydration more effectively
substituents. This polysaccharide has
the skin were performed on each
As a complement to this study,
than Sodium Hyaluronate. This
been extremely well characterized
half of the face at the beginning
Xilogel was also examined as
improved hydration of skin
and its use in cosmetic formulations
and end of the treatment. An
an inhibitor of β-galactosidase,
cells then boosts elasticity and
has been assessed in terms of
additional measurement of skin
an enzyme that, as its activity
reduces evidence of roughness,
skin hydration, elasticization,
hydration was taken 30 minutes
is generally higher in senescent
and a better homeostatic
roughness and skin density on
after a controlled application
keratinocytes, is often considered
balance of dermis cells enhances
healthy volunteers. Additionally,
(2mg/cm2) of the product. In skin
to be a marker of cell age —
skin density. Furthermore, in-vitro
Xilogel has been shown to impart a
treated with Xilogel, hydration was
observing a reduction in its
investigations confirmed Xilogel’s
unique sensory quality to cosmetic
seen to dramatically increase in
activity is usually associated with
involvement in the hydration
formulations, in particular a smooth,
just 30 minutes, accompanied by
antiageing properties. In addition,
mechanisms and ageing of
running spreadability that is
a 59.2% increase in skin moisture
Xilogel has been investigated as
cells. To conclude, such results
perceivable at concentrations as
— significantly greater than
a potentiator of the expression of
— combined with its high
low as 0.1%.
the 55.5% increase caused by
filaggrin, a protein crucial in the
performance in traditional and
the positive reference control.
maintanence of skin hydration.
silicon based systems — reveal
weight, improves short term
Efficacy Studies and Applications
After 4 weeks Xilogel exhibited further positive results in relation
Conclusions
moisturizer in a wide range
The biological efficacy of Xilogel
to the benchmark (a 35.8%
The Xilogel-containing formulation
of functions. PHM
employed in cosmetic formulations
compared with a 37.1% increase
in the clinical trial was seen
has been assesed in both in-vitro
in hydration). It also triggered an
to provide a better short term
and in in-vivo trials. The clinical
improvement in overall elasticity
hydration compared with the
efficacy trial involved 20 specially
in addition to a decrease of 19.4%
positive benchmark Sodium
selected female volunteers in
in maximal skin deformation
Hyaluronate, when employed
the 35-60 age group, who were
and visoelastic ration — a level
in a formulation at the same
requested not to use other products
similar to that of the Sodium
percentage of 0.5%. In other
on the testing area, to avoid
Hyaluronate reference (p<0.05).
instrumental measurements,
intentional UV exposure and to
Also displayed were decreases
Xilogel offered results that
refrain from washing their face for 3
of 27.6% and 21.3% in the average
demonstrated no statistically
hours prior to measurements. Each
roughness parameter (Sa) and
significant differences to the
volunteer acted as their own control;
the average maximum roughness
reference, indicating that it
the study design demanded the
parameter (Sz), respectively — again
qualifies as a suitable green
application of a Xilogel -containing
comparable to those achieved
alternative to hyaluronic acid.
34
Xilogel’s potential as a green
References
1. K. El-Siddig et al., Tamarind, Tamarindus indica, International Centre for Underutilised Crops, Southhampton (2006).
For more information
Guisi Losi Corporate Communication and Events Indena S.p.A Tel. +39 0257 496 298 giusi.losi@indena.com www.indena.it
autumn 2011
PersonalCare
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