The world of personal care ingredients
PUREHealth Magazine
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012
SKINCARE
Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin Stem Cells in Skincare
Nutricosmetics It starts with a sip...
Crossing continents
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
Silicones: An Invaluable Ingredient
ANTIAGEING The New Front Line
SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY INITIATIVES Eco-Certified Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite
www.purehealthmag.co.uk
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2011 autumn
12
CONTENTS ... In
i s i th
e u s s
14
30 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012
Guest Editorial
05 The Cosmetic Stage: Enter Cosmetotextiles
Dominik Schneider
News and Products
06 A Round Up of the Latest
26
News and Updates
Industry Update
08 From Professional to Retail Imogen Matthews
Antiageing
10 The New Front Line in Antiageing Daniel Schmid
22
Skincare
12 Stem Cell Extracts in Topical Skincare Applications
Dr Simon Craw
14 A Natural Balancing Act Karen Sinclair Drake
18
16 Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin Véronique Martin
Sustainable Beauty Initiatives 18 Eco-Certified
Charlotte Hodgson and Stefano Togni
20 Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite
Raquel Merino
Nutricosmetics 22 It Starts with a Sip... Tony Sanguinetti
26 Crossing Continents Aurélie De Schuyteneer
Cosmetic Ingredients
30 Silicones: An Invaluable Ingredient
Dr Michel De Poortere
FORMULATION 32 A Touch of Luxury
16
2012 January/February
08
Fabienne Bizeray
Last Word: 34 Uniformly Smooth
Craig Levine
3
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GUEST EDITORIAL
The Cosmetic Stage
Enter Cosmetotextiles
T
he cosmetotextiles
Quiospheres moist’s hydrating
sphere has recently
and moisturizing properties are
undergone a flurry
based on two active ingredients
of innovation, driven
from Lipotec. Antarcticine is a
by the introduction
glycoprotein originally found
of novel mechanisms such as
in the Antarctic Sea, the main
Quiospheres, an advanced
cosmetic properties of which are
cosmetic and textile application
protecting the skin and helping
technology that delivers sought
its regeneration. Its capacity
after personal care benefits
to increase collagen synthesis
without any effort on the part
confers antiageing properties
of the wearer. This new high-
and it is suitable for use in
performance cosmetotextile
protecting the skin against harsh
is the product of collaboration
weather conditions. Xpertmoist
between Spanish cosmetic
is a molecular film that provides
ingredient manufacturer Lipotec
a highly moisturizing effect and
and Clariant, the Swiss-based
delivers a pleasant feeling to
global textile solutions provider.
the skin.
As a result of this co-operation,
Quiospheres slim is based
high strength cosmetic and skin
on the Spanish company’s
enhancement ingredients have
Liporeductyl and Relistase
been incorporated into a broad
actives. Liporeductyl is a
range of fabrics, thus facilitating
pro-liposomal combination
step technology — or simply
continues for an extended
a wide range of end products:
of slimming ingredients and a
an attraction and reaction
period of time — not only are
from clothing, legwear and
tripeptide that fights cellulite,
process. The special design of
these ingredients long lasting,
lingerie to bed linen and airline
offering a lipolytic effect and
Quiospheres endows them with
but the fabric has good wash
blankets.
a venotonic action. It activates
a high degree of affinity for the
resistance and the microcapsules
microcirculation, improves the
skin, which is vital for the effective
remain effective for 20 wash
marketing and application
skin’s complexion and also helps
transference of the ingredients
cycles. Garments incorporating
development at Clariant’s
to prevent cellulite formation.
— and thereby the promotion
Quiospheres may be tumbled
textile business unit — believes
Relistase is a novel peptide
of well-being and wellness.
and ironed at temperatures of
the technology represents a
that enhances skin elasticity
The second step is a proven
up to 70 °C, although sensitive
“major breakthrough in the
and tightness by inhibiting
gradual release and ‘transphere’
laundering is recommended
area of cosmetotextiles.”
excess elastase activity. By
of the cosmetic ingredients,
for finished garments to support
Drawing attention to what
stimulating collagen synthesis
facilitated by the reaction or
a long lasting effect of the
he termed the “tremendous
and enhancing tensile strength
activity of natural skin enzymes
microencapsulated cosmetic
expertise” of Lipotec in the
and elastic resistance, Relistase
with the microcapsule shell’s
ingredients. Roesch firmly believes
micro-encapsulation of luxury
helps to restore skin’s three-
components, thus allowing the
that this cosmetic release
cosmetics with proven benefits,
dimensional integrity. Clariant’s
ingredients to be delivered to the
mechanism will give brand
he branded Quiospheres a
new application technology
skin. Lipotec’s ingredients, such
owners the opportunity to create
“win-win development for
for the microcapsules is quality-
as peptides, are proven to be
“added value products based on
both textile manufacturers and
controlled and they are
biologically active and, among
state of the art technology and
brands” and emphasized the
distributed evenly across the
them, a series of new peptides
designed for modern lifestyles”
“almost limitless opportunities”
fabric. Moreover, the protected
have been tailor made with
that have the power to promote
for added value textile
microcapsules are unaffected
biomimetic criteria, emulating
enhanced levels of wellness and
products. There are currently
by the impact of handling,
the natural skin molecules and
well-being. PHM
two variants of the micro-
mechanical stress and high
improving its functionality. Once
encapsulation: Quiospheres
temperature throughout the
the garment or product is worn
moist, which boasts hydrating
textile production process.
and comes into contact with the
and moisturizing properties
Garments can be made,
skin, the release of the cosmetic
and delivers softness and
pressed, ironed and steamed at
ingredients begins; the longer
smoothness, and Quiospheres
temperatures of up to 120°C (for
they are worn, the more effective
slim, which may help to
up to 1 minute).
the delivery.
Rainer Roesch — head of
improve body shape, delivering elasticity and firmness.
The skin benefits from these advantages through a two
2012 January/February
The scientifically measured release of the ingredients
For more information
Dominik Schneider Media Relations Clariant Tel. +41 6146 953 62 dominiks.schneider@clariant.com www.clariant.com
5
NEWS
Good Things Come in Small Packages
New Sustainable Palm Oil Agreement
The Stephenson Group (www.stephensongroup.co.uk) have signed a groundbreaking deal with New Britain Oils Limited to become the UK’s first personal care product manufacturer to produce a soap base that not only includes RSPO-certified sustainable palm oil, but also meets the RSPO Supply Chain Certification requirements. The West Yorkshire-based company and New Britain Oils, which operates the world’s first dedicated sustainable palm oil refinery in Liverpool, confirmed the agreement on the eve of the 8th Annual Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (‘RSPO’) in Jakarta, Indonesia. To coincide with the new agreement, Stephenson Group showcased its segregated RSPO-certified sustainable palm oil personal care products — including its soap bases — at the international event, which took place from 8–11 November. Stephenson Group’s speciality soap bases, which are exported worldwide, are used by its customers to create finished soap bars by adding fragrances, colours and additives. Aside from producing 15,000 tonnes of soap bases a year, it is also the main UK supplier of bases to the US soap market, generating sales of $2 million a year. New Britain Oils is dedicated to changing the way in which palm oil is supplied to Europe’s food and personal care sectors. Its palm oil comes entirely from known certified sustainable plantation sources in Papua New Guinea, which include more than 7000 smallholders. Jamie Bentley, chief executive of Stephenson Group, commented: “As an ethical manufacturer committed to sustainability in the personal care market, this is a very proud moment. New Britain Oils has played a very important role in creating the route from sustainable farming to refining, which is a major step forward to encouraging greater use of certified sustainable palm oil in manufacturing.”
M&H, a premier supplier of plastic components, has recently announced the addition of a new 30 ml tubular to its portfolio of standard products. This bottle is manufactured in PET, offering clear, glass-like clarity and good barrier properties. Its small size is perfect for sample packs, or as part of a hotel amenities range, and its stylish contemporary shape makes it versatile enough for a wide range of market sectors. Tubulars are one of the most popular bottle shapes and M&H has an extensive range available in PET and HDPE. With more than 1000 standard bottles, jars, flexible tubes and closures, M&H are almost certain to offer something that fits your requirements. If, however, the extensive range doesn’t include exactly the right design, the design team will be more than happy to create it for you using their custom service (www.mhplastics.com).
Dynamite for Hair
Croda recently unveiled a new innovative hair conditioning agent, KeraDyn HH. Proven to deliver “healthy hair dynamics” to damaged hair, it provides this sector of the personal care industry with a new, exciting marketing platform for the next generation of hair care products. The agent has been designed to boost the dynamics of damaged hair by enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair strands, thus promoting the freedom of movement that only healthy hair enjoys. 18 MEA (18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid) is the most abundant lipid found on the hair surface; this lipid layer can be depleted — through, for example, chemical treatments — and this contributes significantly to inter-fibre friction. The multiple branched chain structure of Keradyn HH is designed to deliver a lubricating effect to the surface of the hair and the polyamine backbone provides multiple points of attachment to the hair, making it highly substantive and an effective agent for reducing inter-fibre friction. Hair types and hair treatment trends vary significantly around the world and, to demonstrate the efficacy of KeraDyn HH globally, the ingredient has been tested on hair from different regions, damaged by regionally relevant chemical treatments, including bleached European, chemically straightened Latin American and coloured Asian hair (www.croda.com).
Serious About Sunscreens
TRI-K Industries Inc recently launched its new line of inorganic sunscreens, TRIshield, at the California Supplier’s Day. TRIshield is a line of high quality micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide powders, which offer formulators the ability to create high SPF and broad spectrum sunscreen formulations and are available globally. The TRIshield line of titanium dioxide has a variety of coating technologies, allowing for superior performance and stability in a range of formulations, including natural claims. The zinc oxide line offers excellent transparency and has great compatibility with organic sunscreens for high SPF formulas. The company consider it to be an excellent addition to their current sun care portfolio, which includes the GalSORB line of organic sunscreens, multiple active ingredients and SPF boosters (www.tri-k.com).
A successful consumer health product requires ingredients with excellent scientific, marketing and regulatory back-up. Frutarom Health is a global supplier of a large range of health ingredients. Please contact us when you need high quality ingredients with good support, such as formulations and custom-made solutions, or when you wish to differentiate yourself from the regular market offering. Frutarom supports the European Health Claims Alliance.
Ingredients from ™
info@frutaromhealth.com Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. +41 44 782 64 64 switzerland@frutarom.com
6
Frutarom Belgium NV +32 52 319 534 belgium@frutarom.com
www.frutarom.com
Frutarom Germany GmbH +49 221 454 6230 germany@frutarom.com
Frutarom Ltd. Israel +972 4 846 2462 FandF@il.frutarom.com
Frutarom USA Incorporated +1 201 861 9500 info@us.frutarom.com
January/February 2012
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Industry Update
From Professional to Retail How trends in the professional sector are being translated into cosmetics.
W
hether it’s
containing formula — which is said
moisturizers being the preferred
by evolving ingredient formulations
because
to work by “reprogramming” hair
product. Kline’s data show that
or simply using the word in the
women
to inhibit its natural tendencies to
antiageing remains the number
product names to reinforce more
want to cut
frizz and curl. Another salon-inspired
one skin concern in the professional
powerful ingredients and strong
back on their
hair care range noted by Barbalova
skincare market, followed by
research backing. Examples include
cosmetics spending or that they
is Dove’s Nutri-Oil Care range,
hyperpigmentation. These trends
Dr Brandt, offering a professional
demand more professional results
launched globally at the end of 2011,
closely mirror consumer skincare
dermatologist alternative with its
from the products they use at
which boasts luxurious and intensive
concerns when purchasing
–Dr Brandt 2-step Laser
home, the spa and retail cosmetics
hair treatment formulations.
cosmetic skincare products in retail.
A-Peel System, and Clinique
sectors are moving closer together.
Skincare is the area in which the
Another trend is for at-home
Repairwear Laser Focus that
Imogen Matthews, consultant to
greatest synergies between salon
devices inspired by those found in
directly compares the product’s
in-cosmetics, analyses the trends
and retail can be seen. For some
the salon: “skincare/acne treatment/
benefits to those of professional
that have led to retail brands
years, skincare brands have been
hair removal professional-like
laser treatments in their
bringing out their own alternative
using technologies and ingredients
devices are set to drive this cross-
marketing campaign. “From
spa treatments.
designed to replicate the effects
border shift between the salon and
more mainstream ingredients
of Botox, dermal fillers and lasers
the home,” maintains Barbalova. A
such as hyaluronic acid, to
are looking to replicate salon/
on the skin. Independent skincare
recent example is LED Technologies’
rather unexpected ones such
spa experiences at home. Once
expert Wendy Lewis maintains
DPL (deep penetrating light) Light
as bee venom, as seen in the
they’ve experienced professional
that it is still a popular category in
Therapy System, which is FDA
latest Apinourish and Apiclear
treatments, they are bound to
skincare with continued new entries
approved to treat acne and help
lines launched by Holland &
want to keep up the good work
designed to mimic the effects of
to reverse the signs of ageing, such
Barrett, all antiageing brands
between visits — and those who
Botox, Azzalure and Bocouture as
as wrinkles. The products concept,
will look to incorporate Botox-
cannot afford salon treatments or
well as hyaluronic acid fillers. “These
and the justification of its $350 price
like alternatives in their future
are nervous about needles may
topicals complement injectable
tag, is that it can be used over and
offerings,” states Barbalova.
want their cosmetics to give similar
treatments done in a clinic and
over again. Wendy Lewis gives her
results. According to Irina Barbalova,
are also used as an alternative for
opinion: “There are many of these
work? Lewis is cautious in her
head of beauty and personal care
women who are not keen to have
systems on the market now, offering
support. “Nothing will completely
research, Euromonitor International,
anything medical or invasive done
mixed results. You have to use them
replace a facelift, but in an era
reduced spending outside the home
and/or are watching their beauty
constantly to see any improvement,
in which women are seeking
has opened up many opportunities
spend closely,” she points out. The
so compliance is a problem. It’s
out ways to avoid or delay
to develop solutions and recreate
ingredients used most often are
the same technology that doctors
surgery, we have better options
out-of-home experiences in the
hexapeptides such as argirilene,
use in their clinics post-treatment
available based on science and
home. She maintains this has
pentapeptides such as matrixyl,
to reduce redness and antiageing.
good clinical data. The extent
transpired across a number of
amino acids and DMAE. “They work
I have never been impressed with
to which these formulations are
categories, the more prominent
in different ways to injectable fillers
LED, but the more powerful devices
effective is relative to consumer
being in hair care. “A number of
and toxins, reducing wrinkles on the
used in doctors’ offices are larger, to
expectations … which are at an
brands are incorporating salon
skin rather than penetrating deeper
cover more area in one go. This one
all time high.” She warns: “If you
quality features in their marketing
into the skin’s layers,” she explains.
looks bigger than most others I have
expect to have an eye lift in a
seen, more like the professional
tube, you will be disappointed,
brands.”
no matter what you use.
It’s not surprising that women
and product benefits or developing
Meanwhile, plenty of consumers
But do these products actually
completely new concepts for the
are buying professional skincare
retail market,” she observes. UK
products from the salon to use at
salon brand, Charles Worthington,
home. According to Kline, global
treatments will continue to inspire
the skincare industry can not only
for example, has launched CW
sales of professional skincare
developments in topical skincare
meet your needs but exceed
Salon at home Straight & Smooth,
products have grown at a very
alternatives,” believes Barbalova,
them as new technology and
a semipermanent straightening
healthy 6% CAGR between 2005
who has seen a number of high
better delivery systems continue
treatment that claims to leave hair
and 2010. Take-home professional
tech skincare products attempting
to be launched with real
straighter and sleeker for up to 40
skincare (as opposed to back-bar)
to mimic the effects of professional
scientific data to back up the
days — owing to its cysteamine-
account for up to 80% of sales, with
laser treatments. They work either
claims being made.” PHM
8
“Surgical and non-invasive
However, if your goal is realistic,
January/February 2012
The extent to which these formulations are effective is relative to consumer expectations ... which are at an all time high
For more information
Imogen Matthews www.in-cosmetics.com
2012 January/February
9
Antiageing
The New Front Line in Antiageing
T
he epidermis
matrix.1 The replacement of
to induce the formation of hair
maintained as a monolayer
is a stratified
these senescent cells by new
follicles and to migrate into the
culture for several passages.
epithelium that, to
fibroblast cells can only be
inter-follicular dermis, where they
They then transferred into
maintain normal
triggered by dermal stem cells
proliferated and differentiated
hanging drops and formed 3D
barrier function, is
— treatments that reinforce
to fibroblast cells, which are able
spheres, thus demonstrating
constantly renewed throughout
the functional ability of dermal
to regenerate the extracellular
an important characteristic
life — a renewal that is
stem cells, therefore, have real
matrix (Figure 1) — for the first
of stem cells. In addition,
mediated by stem cells in the
antiageing potential.
time, the dermal papilla was
immunofluorescent labelling of
identified as a niche for dermal
whole mount spheres showed
stem cells. The door is now open
positive staining for Sox2, a
to the next generation of stem
proposed dermal stem cell
a hot topic in cosmetics and
The Dermal Papilla: A Niche for Dermal Stem Cells
cell cosmetics: the protection and
marker. When cells dissociated
in vitro test systems using
Compared with epidermal stem
vitalization of human dermal stem
from primary spheres were
epidermal stem cells have
cells, research on stem cells of the
cells for the restoration of skin
seeded back into classical
been established to facilitate
dermis is relatively young, with
firmness and wrinkle reduction.
cell culture dishes, numerous
claims for epidermal stem
the first reports about multipotent
cell actives. But what about
cells of the dermis appearing in
A New Assay
spontaneously formed (Figure 2).
the stem cells in the dermis?
2001.2 Experiments into the exact
Dermal stem cells were isolated
To evaluate ingredients for stem
Until now, they have not
localization of these multipotent
from the dermal papilla of
cell vitalization potential, the
been addressed by cosmetic
stem cells revealed that they are
excised human hair follicles and
intensity and uniformity of Sox2-
treatments despite playing a
always located near the hair
decisive role in skin ageing.
follicle, in the papilla and the
Fibroblasts, the prominent
perifollicular area. In late 2009,
cell type in the dermis, are
Biernaskie et al. showed that
responsible for the continuous
dermal papilla cells express the
production of collagen
stem cell marker gene Sox2 — a
and elastin; ageing skin is
transcription factor shown to
characterized by an increasing
be essential in maintaining the
number of senescent
pluripotent phenotype of stem
fibroblasts. These cells have
cells — and have a tendency
not only stopped producing
to grow in colonies in the form
collagen and elastin but even
of spheres.3 The Sox2-positive
start to break down the existing
cells were found to self-renew,
basal layer of the epidermis. The protection or stimulation of these stem cells has become
10
secondary spheres were
Figure 1: The dermal papilla as a niche for dermal stem cells.
January/February 2012
But what about the stem cells in the dermis? Until now, they have not been addressed by cosmetic treatments despite playing a decisive role in skin ageing labelling in primary spheres
found to stimulate the formation
and the number of secondary
of secondary spheres (Figure 3)
spheres formed were used as
— compared with the control
parameters. The assay was used
culture there was an increase
to screen for a dermal stem cell
of 89%. Overall, the results
ingredient and an extract of
prove the beneficial effect of
plant stem cells of the Argan
PhytoCellTec Argan on the stem
tree (PhytoCellTec Argan),
cell characteristics of the dermal
produced by the plant tissue
papilla cells. PHM
culture technique, was found to significantly stimulate the vitality of dermal stem cells.
Vitalization of Human Dermal Stem Cells Figure 2: Formation of primary and secondary spheres as test system for dermal stem cell actives.
Dermal papilla cells, isolated from excised human hair follicles, were cultured in the presence of 0.1% PhytoCellTec Argan and the primary spheres prepared for immunohistochemical analysis
References
1. J . Campisi, “The Role of Cellular Senescence in Skin Aging,” J Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc. 3(1), 1–5 (1998). 2. J.G Toma, et al., “Isolation of Multipotent Adult Stem Cells from the Dermis of Mammalian Skin,” Nat. Cell. Biol. 3(9), 778–784 (2001). 3. J. Biernaskie, et al., “SKPs Derive from Hair Follicle Precursors and Exhibit Properties of Adult Dermal Stem Cells,” Cell Stem Cell 5(6), 610–623 (2009).
of expression of the stem cell marker Sox2. Compared with control cultures, the immunofluorescence pictures clearly revealed an enhanced expression of Sox2 in spheres formed by dermal papilla cells cultured with PhytoCellTec Argan. Incubation with
Figure 3: Number of secondary spheres.
2012 January/February
PhytoCellTec Argan was also
For more information
Daniel Schmid Mibelle Biochemistry Bolimattstrasse 1 5033 Buchs, Switzerland daniel.schmid@mibelle.ch Tel. +41 6283 613 49 www.mibellebiochemistry.com
11
SKINCARE
Stem Cells Extracts in Topical SkinCare Applications
I
t doesn’t take an
skin stem cells to proliferate,
Human Cells
pool of these stem cells to help
investigative genius to
increasing cell turnover and
Human cells can be categorized
with self-repair and, according
notice that stem cells have
improving the health of the
into adult cells, also known as
to one theory of the ageing
surged in popularity as
skin, and second by directly
somatic cells, and stem cells.
process, this pool decreases as
ingredients in antiageing
stimulating skin cells to produce
Adult cells comprise the majority
we age.
skincare formulations. But what
more of the extracellular
of the body — from skin, fat and
are the different kinds and
matrix proteins that are vital to
bone to internal organs — and
sources of stem cells — and how
reducing wrinkles and improving
stem cells are the cells that
SkinCare Applications
are these differences reflected
skin firmness and elasticity. An
create these adult cells. There
Essentially, there are two separate
in their likely efficacy? First,
important thing to understand
are two main classes of human
and equally important issues to
however, a brief description
is that no cream contains live
stem cells: pluripotent and
be considered when formulating
of stem cells and the ageing
stem cells; rather stem cells are
multipotent. Pluripotent stem
any stem cell derived proteins
process: stem cells are a part
cultivated, processed and the
cells have the ability to become
into a viable skincare product.
of all living things — plants,
resulting extracts used as an
almost any cell in the body and
The first relates to the efficacy of
animals and humans — and
ingredient.
are derived from oocytes (eggs)
the proteins themselves, not only
or genetically reprogrammed
in their original environment, but
have the ability to divide continuously (scientifically known
Plant Stem Cells
adult cells. If the stem cells are
also when applied to the skin as a
as proliferation) and change to
The plant stem cells — also
derived from eggs, the eggs can
topical application. The second
become a particular cell type,
known as meristem cells — used
be fertilized — in which case
is whether the formulation can
such as a skin cell (scientifically
in cosmeceutical applications
the term embryonic stem cells
preserve the proteins in a stable
known as differentiation).
are most commonly derived
(ESC) is used — or unfertilized,
form in the cream and offer a
These two properties make the
from fruits or flowers, such
in which case we call them
reasonable shelf life. To create a
study of stem cells important
as apples, melons or roses.
parthenogenetic stem cells
genuinely effective product it is
for reasons that range from
Although such stem cells
(PSC). Pluripotent stem cells
critical that both these aspects
treating incurable diseases to
obviously have the potential
derived from cells that are in their
are addressed by any skincare
skin rejuvenation. Although there
to regenerate new parts of the
final form (so-called adult cells)
cream or serum.
is still much debate among the
whole organism (for example
are called induced pluripotent
scientific community as to the
a tree), they have very limited
stem cells (iPS). Multipotent stem
Efficacy
actual process of ageing, one
capacity for self-repair and the
cells, such as mesenchymal stem
Meristem cells are found at the
theory is that as we age the pool
actual concentration in the
cells, are stem cells with more
tips of roots and in the budding
of stem cells in our bodies gets
fruit or flower may be very low.
limited capabilities that can only
parts of plants; they are only
smaller and, correspondingly,
An advantage of plant stem
form different cell types within
present in very small quantities
our ability to heal ourselves or
cells is their ready availability
the same “germ layer” — that is
in the fruit or flower. A plant’s
simply replace damaged cells
and “organic” nature, however
to say, closely related cell types,
physiology is so completely
decreases. Adding stem cell-
the exact mechanism of how
such as hair and nail or bone and
different to a human’s that it
derived ingredients into skin care
these extracts or proteins
cartilage — and have a more
seems unlikely that, despite the
products is an attempt to slow or
derived from such stem cells
limited ability to proliferate. Most
various efficacy claims attributed
reverse this process in one of two
will interact with human skin is
tissue types, with the notable
to meristem cells, they can
ways: first by stimulating existing
scientifically unclear.
exception of the brain, keep a
interact with human cells in a
12
January/February 2012
therefore present a significant
can quickly lose their ability to
challenge in terms of formulating
affect the skin. Lifeline’s scientists
them into a cream.
have found a way to prevent
Lifeline Skin Care — a
these molecules breaking
important to look beyond the
subsidiary of International Stem
down and losing their potential,
hyperbole and consider the
Cell Corporation, a publicly
using liposomes created from
following three key factors:
meaningful way. Their role is very
traded biotechnology company,
phospholipid (fat) molecules.
1. T he source of the stem cell
different and the species gap
headquartered in California —
Such encapsulation technology
simply too large.
launched the first skincare brand
provides two benefits. First, it
A number of companies
extract — is it animal or plant? 2. I ts potency — are the stem cells
that uses pluripotent human
stabilizes the proteins and allows
pluripotent or multipotent?
use human stem cell extracts
stem cells as a source of these
them to be formulated into a skin
3. H ow is the extract stabilized in
derived from multipotent
messaging proteins. The company
care cream without losing their
stem cells or from adult cells,
is not rooted in the skincare
potency. Second, the liposomes,
If the questions raised cannot
usually taken from discarded
business, but focused on using
formed as they are by using
be adequately answered then
tissue such as foreskins and
pluripotent stem cells derived via
molecules similar to those already
the product is unlikely to be
abdominoplasties (tummy tucks
parthenogenesis (PSC) to study and
present in cell membranes, aid
effective. PHM
and so on). Multipotent stem
find cures for diseases, particularly
the absorption and delivery of
cells such as these have only
those of the brain, liver, pancreas
the messaging proteins to the
a limited ability to differentiate
and eyes.
epidermal layer of the skin.
mostly epidermal growth factors.
Protein Stability
marketing buzz surrounding
Although they are in principle
The second problem with stem
the use of stem cells in
useful, the concentration of these
cell extracts is that unless they
cosmeceuticals. When evaluating
ingredients can be very low and
are properly stabilized they
or purchasing such products, it is
and proliferate and contain
A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1
To conclude, there is much
07.09.2010
15:23 Uhr
Seite 3
the final product?
For more information
Dr Simon Craw COO Lifeline Skin Care, VP International Stem Cells info@lifelineskincare.com www.lifelineskincare.com
www.stolz-concept.de
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com
Skincare
A Natural Balancing act
T
he ‘natural’
and an optimum pH is a keystone
skincare, but studies have shown
movement in
of its formulations, all of which are
that the body is better able to
cosmetics has
mildly acidic with a pH of 4.5–5
absorb and utilize extracts of
continued to increase
that reflects that of the skin’s outer
whole-food nutrients than
its hold over the hearts
layer. Maintaining this mild acidity
it is isolated components.
and minds of consumers — and the
optimizes the skin’s long-term
In addition, it should not
list of certifications and ‘free from’
health by promoting its natural
be forgotten that
assurances on packaging grows
protection against bacterial
repeated exposure
ever lengthier. Although both
growth and irritation, decreasing
to high doses of
consumers and critics like to see this
sensitivity and helping to remove
any one substance can
product positioning, alone it will not
debris. Mildly acidic skin is also
cause irritation and long-term
has ensured that they too can use
suffice: the natural movement must
better able to encourage new
damage. As such, extracts of
this range with confidence.
prove that it can perform in terms
skin cell growth, stimulate new
blackcurrant are selected to
of efficacy. Sophyto antiageing
collagen and remain tight, thick
obtain the powerful antioxidant,
associating the vivid colours
skincare believes it can deliver on
and firm. Without this balance,
vitamin C, not only owing to their
and fragrances of products
both fronts — certified as organic
the skin is more susceptible to
high concentration of the vitamin,
with synthetics, the sensory
by the UK Soil Association and the
the alkalizing effects of everyday
but the GLA (gamma linolenic
intensity of Sophyto’s products
American NSF/ANSI 305 through
pollution and microbes, which
acid, a rare omega-6 essential
are solely a result of the very
Quality Assurance International,
can cause damage and hasten
fatty acid) and potassium that
high concentrations of botanical
its range claims to be vegan, free
the visible signs of ageing. At pH 7
they contain. Working together
extracts and are actually an
from parabens, silicones, pthalates,
even water can compromise the
to support the skin’s friendly flora,
indication of their potency.
petrochemicals and all other
skin’s integrity, something that
helping to prevent acne and other
For example, the ‘Anti Aging
artificial fillers, binders, colours,
can be avoided by encouraging
imbalances, as well as promoting
Antioxidant Serum’ owes its amber
fragrances and preservatives. In
the use of a toner to remove
healthy collagen growth, it is the
colouring to high levels of green
addition, it is the first professional
cleanser, which ensures the skin
combined presence of these
tea, which must be present in
skincare line to achieve full
is prepared and ready to receive
bioactive ingredients — in a
concentrations high enough to
gluten-free certification. Their list
serums and moisturizers, thereby
bioavailable format — that makes
appear brown before it benefits
of ‘free froms’ might be long, but
improving their potency and, as a
them so effective.
the skin. The products also differ
it’s matched by the list of efficacy
consequence, their efficacy.
claims, which include preventing
The balancing act doesn’t
Used as consumers are to
The balance struck by Sophyto
from most on the market in their
is delicate enough to address all
thinner consistency, which, as a
the appearance of fine lines and
end there; packed with optimum
skin types and ages and products
result of the absence of artificial
wrinkles associated with premature
levels of naturally derived whole
adapt to suit the needs of an
fillers and binders, is a positive sign
ageing, stopping the build up of
food extracts, each product
individual’s skin. The belief that
for those seeking an all-natural
the P. acnes bacteria associated
mirrors a well balanced diet and
anything that is applied to the
skin solution. A lack of silicones
with acne and being suitable for
provides a synergy of vitamins,
body may easily end up within
and dimethicone prevents the
minerals, essential fatty acids,
it has driven the exclusion of
formation of an occlusive barrier
antioxidants and amino acids.
all known allergens, including
on top of the skin and allows the
Crucially, unlike synthetic
essential oils. The brand’s bid to
serums and moisturizers to deliver
than the purity, of its
equivalents, these natural
appeal to all consumers, even
their ingredients directly to the
products that Sophyto
substances are recognized by
the most sensitive, recently led
skin to be utilized. Here, efficacy
believes sets them
the body and able to operate
to its achieving gluten-free
and marketing strategy combine;
apart from other
in harmony with it to optimize
certification. In addition to being
consumers may be assured that
natural brands.
the skin’s natural metabolism.
easily ingested orally, gluten-
every single ingredient actively
Instead of simply masking a
containing products can be
works to improve skin health — no
company, it’s all
problem, they support the
absorbed into the bloodstream
cheap fillers padding out the
about balance
skin’s natural functions and
either through cutaneous lesions
formulation can translate into a
encourage its innate ability to
or wherever the skin’s acid mantle
‘value for money’ message. PHM
all skin types, even the most sensitive. Importantly, it is the efficacy, rather
For this
heal the root cause. Individual micronutrients — in particular vitamins
is disturbed. Some coeliacs,
For more information
however, cannot tolerate any topical application of gluten
A, C and E, coenzyme
and experience symptoms of
Q10, and unspecified
inflammation, including itching,
‘peptides’ — have all
redness, rashes and dryness upon
become buzzwords in
contact with the allergen. Sophyto
Karen Sinclair Drake Strategic Development, R&D karen@sophyto.com www.sophyto.com
January/February 2012
Sun Care
AakoSun UV-filter range THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION ORGANIC UV-FILTERS Avobenzone (BMDBM) Benzophenone 3 & 4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Octyl Methoxycinnamate AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALS C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide
www.aako.nl
Aako was205 founded in AE 1945 and established Much | importance is attached to the need P.O. Box | 3830 Leusden | The Netherlands +31 (0)33 494 84 94 itself as a distributor for speciality
for proper protection against sunlight
Middle East. Trough consistent investment
requirements on suntan lotion products.
chemicals in Europe, North Africa and
in its employees during these 65 years it
has become synonymous with the phrase
and European regulations impose strict
Our UV-filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture
Sun Care
“chemistry with people”
Aako is currently active in the following
of safe suntan lotions for consumers.
Our expertise and customer-orientated
services in sales and marketing, logistics, AakoSun UV-filter range
markets: detergents, cosmetics (sun
care, hair care, personal care), industrial
product development, regulatory affairs THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION
and home care, coating specialties, crop
and finance hasORGANIC helped to secure longUV-FILTERS
and fragrances.
suppliers and customers. Benzophenone
protection, pharma, industrial chemicals
We would like to distinguish ourselves as a
distributor of UV-filters by offering suntan lotion manufacturers in Europe the best
price to quality ratio and a guaranteed and AUXILIARY stable delivery and service.
term close co-operations with(BMDBM) many global Avobenzone
3&4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Aako offers specialized expertise Octyl Methoxycinnamate in meeting customer demands: our
“chemistry with people” values mean that
we offer much more than the chemical for RAW MATERIALS — or even for the future! C12-C15 Alkylnow Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide for further information Please feel free to contact us by phone or by email on suncare@aako.nl
www.aako.nl
P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94
SKINCARE
Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin
A common affliction that is spread across the global population, many suffer from sensitive skin and its unpleasant sensory implications — and it has a major impact on their quality of life. In Europe, the US and Japan, some 50% of women and 30% of men claim to be affected and approximately 36% of Chinese people complain about sensitive skin. Surprisingly, and despite these figures, the condition has yet to be satisfactorily addressed by active cosmetic ingredients.
Sensitive Skin: What Is It?
receptor potential vanilloid
stressors. Clinical studies have
a deeper level: first, they describe
1 (TRPV1), situated principally
shown that SymSitive 1609 has a
Sensitive skin should not be
sensitive skin as being associated
on the skin’s nerve cells and on
major impact on the unpleasant
regarded as a disease in the
with an over-activation of the
keratinocytes. Among other
sensory symptoms of sensitive skin
way of allergic hyper-reactions
skin’s sensory fibres, in which
things, they are activated by heat
(Figures 1 and 2).
or neurodermatitis — instead, its
the transient receptor potential
or capsaicin, the natural pungent
sensory symptoms are caused
vanilloid 1 (TRPV1), located on
ingredient in pepper, and trigger
by an enhanced sensitivity of
the nerve fibres, plays a major
an increased flow of calcium
Proven Benefits on Skin: In Vivo Data
the skin’s nerves. Environmental
role. Second, they characterize
through the heat receptors.
To verify the efficacy of SymSitive
factors such as heat, cold or wind,
sensitive skin by its disturbed
in addition to certain cosmetic
skin permeability: the barrier
Efficacy on Skin
vivo studies with 30 volunteers
ingredients, alcohol consumption
function is impaired, causing the
To address the as yet unmet
who had a proven sensitivity to
and stress, can trigger it. Put
skin to be more vulnerable. The
consumer need for ingredients
capsaicin. During the test, two
simply, the subject of sensitive skin
consequences are enhanced
that soothe sensitive skin
o/w emulsions were applied
can be considered from three
activation of sensory receptors
symptoms, Symrise has
to the nasolabial fold, one
angles: that of the consumer, the
and reduced protection against
developed the new cosmetic
with capsaicin and another
dermatologist and the biologist.
irritants or toxic agents, in addition
ingredient: SymSitive 1609. The
with capsaicin and 0.4% of
to accelerated dehydration.
clear solution consists of trans-
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, the
4-tert-Butyl-1-cyclohexanol in
cosmetic active ingredient in
Its impact on their quality of life causes consumers to regard
Biologists examine the issue on
Calcium is known to play a vital
1609, Symrise performed two in
sensitive skin as one of the
role in balancing skin functions
pentylene glycol and offers
SymSitive 1609. After 3 minutes,
most common disturbing skin
and recent dermatological
tangible formulation benefits. It
the perception of stinging,
conditions; according to them,
research has demonstrated
is easy to formulate, soluble in
burning, tingling, itching, tickling
their skin reacts far more sensitively
that sensitive skin suffers from
oil, colourless and significantly
and tightness was evaluated on
to cosmetic products and/or
an imbalance in its levels of this
attenuates skin irritations
a scale of 0 (no perception) to
environmental factors than that of
mineral. This imbalance — which
such as redness and itchiness,
4 (strong perception). Statistical
people with normal skin. It should
leads to redness and a burning
providing instant comfort. The
analysis was undertaken using
be noted, however, that they are
sensation — is caused by an
product soothes and protects
the Wilcoxon matched pairs test.
describing physiological reactions
over-activation of heat receptors,
the skin against future irritations
rather than a disease.
scientifically named transient
and makes it more resistant to
The test proved to be successful: depending on the dosage
For dermatologists, sensitive skin is a condition defined by two major factors: sensation and symptoms. It is connected with sensory attributes such as tightness, stinging, prickling, burning, tingling, pain and, less frequently, itching — mainly in the face — which manifests itself in erythema or flushed, red skin. Although the degree of skin sensitivity varies between individuals, hyper-reactive skin responds with exaggerated sensorial activity to environmental or topical factors, including hard water and cosmetics.
Figure 1: Clinical study into the effect of 0.4% of the SymSitive 1609 active ingredient.
16
Figure 2: SymSitives 1609’s soothing effect on the scalp.
January/February 2012
and parameter measured,
The test revealed that SymSitive
Conclusion
SymSitive 1609 reduced the in vivo
1609 delivers a significant soothing
SymSitive 1609 belongs to a
perception of capsaicin-induced
effect after a single application
new generation of fast-acting
stinging, burning and tingling by
compared with a placebo
ingredients for the intense relief
up to 4.5 fold, compared with
(p<0.01) (Figure 3). An impressive
of sensitive skin and scalp. It
a placebo, with high statistical
74% of the test subjects did not
minimizes discomfort and irritation
significance. The sensations
report any discomfort during the
and optimizes cutaneous self-
were reduced below the sensory
hair coloration and 93% stated
protection and regulation, calming
threshold level immediately after
that they would like the hairdresser
over-reactions of the skin and
applying emulsions containing
to use the product again when
scalp and reducing the symptoms
SymSitive 1609.
dying their hair. The hairdresser
of sensitive reactions. PHM
For more information
VĂŠronique Maurin Symrise Tel. +33 154 627 87 veronique.maurin@symrise.com www.symrise.com
was impressed with the soothing
Proven Benifits on the Scalp
effect of SymSitive 1609 during the
SymSitive 1609 is also effective
the fact that it did not alter the
against stinging and burning
expected shade.
hair colouration and appreciated
sensations on the scalp induced by hair colouration, as verified by Symrise in an in vivo study carried out with the help of a hairdresser, who tested the ingredient on 15 subjects with scalps sensitive to colouration. Two solutions of an ammoniafree hair dye available on the market, one containing 3% of SymSitive and the other left unchanged, were applied to different sides of the head. To evaluate the preventive and soothing effects of the solutions, the participants completed a questionnaire and detailed their subjective impression of the efficacy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; this was then supplemented with the separate evaluation and the opinion of the hairdresser.
SymSitive 1609 (3%) Placebo
Soothing effect appeared immediately
Soothing effect appeared after a few minutes
Soothing effect was delayed
Figure 3: In vivo study carried out by a hairdresser.
2012 January/February
17
Sustainable Initiatives
In the wake of their Centella asiatica extract receiving Ecocert validation, Pure Health Magazine spoke with Indena’s head of personal care development, Stefano Togni, to discuss their reaction to the certification and the new sustainable landscape of the cosmetic industry. PHM: Tell us about your Centella
ST: A significant one! The ever-
conditions to sustain themselves
programmes throughout recent
asiatica purified dry extract; what
increasing importance of
and their environment this can
years, which included supporting
are its benefits?
sustainable innovation in the
not only be preserved, but
“Non-Detriment Findings for Prunus
ST: There are several important
industry demands a means
actually evolve.
Africana Kalkman in Cameroon”
benefits related to this novel
of independent validation.
extract. Unlike other Centella
Certifications of the kind offered
PHM: How does Indena support
between the International Tropical
asiatica extracts, it adds the
by Ecocert provide the final
sustainable technologies with
Timber Organisation (ITTO) and the
polyphenolic fraction to the
consumer with a guarantee
social responsibility?
Convention on International Trade
standard centella triterpenes
of correct processing and an
ST: As our main resource, we
of Endangered Species of Wild
extracts and thus better
adherence to environmentally
have always had an interest
Fauna and Flora (CITES), it was set
“reproduces” the whole
friendly extraction techniques.
in preserving vegetal biomass
up to undertake a thorough and
and guaranteeing its continuing
ongoing monitoring of the status
phytochemical profile of the
project. The fruit of a collaboration
leaves. In other words, all the
PHM: Can the need for
availability. Indena has been
of the species in Cameroon in
beneficial molecules contained
sustainability positively affect
part of the Responsible Care
addition to collecting data on the
in Centella asiatica — both
innovation?
programme, a global voluntary
biology, availability, management,
the terpenic and polyphonic
ST: Yes, definitely, particularly if
initiative promoted by the
use and trade of products
fractions — are preserved in
sustainability is taken seriously
chemical industry, since 2005.
derived from the Prunus. Over
this extract. Benefits offered
and properly managed. The
Under this scheme, companies
and above this, the company
include an increase of collagen
fact that it is such a hot topic
collaborate to improve their
recently sponsored and supported
synthesis, plus other antiageing
reflects the remarkable level of
health, safety and environmental
the building of an orphanage
and DNA protection properties.
interest from both industry and
performance through their
in Tamil Nadu, alongside other
In addition, solvents used in the
consumers, ensuring that it goes
national associations. This
social initiatives in Madagascar,
process (ethanol and water)
beyond the remit of market
commitment to the environment
such as “Add a Seat to the Table,”
are food grade, making the
trend and is accompanied by
was recently formalized when
an annual event organized by
extract suitable for use in dietary
real commitment. If we deplete
our main production site was
Indena’s volunteers to fight famine,
supplements to address the
both environmental and social
awarded ISO14001 certification.
promote scholarship and support
‘beauty from within’ concept.
resources we will have far less
This serves as a guarantee that
the community in Fianarantsoa.
scope and potential for innovation
the company has an adequate
Furthermore, we have recently
PHM: What does the Ecocert
in the future. Rather than being
management system for the
selected several industry
validation mean to Indena?
a burden on the industry, a
control of our environmental
organizations that are seriously
ST: The company possesses
sustainable approach is crucial
impact and to continually improve
committed to sustainability and
other ingredients that bear
to protect its future; resources
the environmental performance
who we will join in the coming
the Ecocert validation — this
must be safeguarded for the
of our activities in a systematic,
year to openly discuss and assist
addition not only recognizes our
use of the next generation of
effective and sustainable way.
in further implementing guidelines
efforts to develop sustainable
innovators. A wider perspective of
technologies but allows us to
things must be taken, preserving
the GACP (Good Agricultural and
expand our range of offerings in
biodiversity and sustaining local
Collection Practices) — guidelines
this area.
communities, which coexist with
developed for quality and safety
We have long been applying
the environment and typically
that include environmental
PHM: What impact does this
pass on traditional knowledge that
issues — and have also
kind of certification have on the
has been gained over centuries. If
implemented additional social
industry?
local populations are granted the
and environmental sustainability
18
on sustainability. PHM
For more information Giusi Losi Marketing Department INDENA S.p.A Tel. +39 257 496 298
January/February 2012
Marine biotechnology for sustainable cosmetics
2012 January/February
19
Sustainable Initiatives
Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite for Cosmetic Results To say that new proposals and ideas are necessary to drive innovation and surprise consumers is to state the obvious somewhat. It is also important, however, to develop new and original ideas for existing — and perhaps well known — products. It is here that biotechnology can play a vital role, making it possible to obtain new molecules from natural origins and apply them to numerous fields;
U
including medicine, agriculture, the food industry and environmental management, to name but a few. nderstood as the use
themselves and stay alive, these
triggered a growing interest
of microorganisms
natural sources and molecules
organisms must create physical
in finding new EPS-producing
or biological
for cosmetic ingredients makes
and biochemical defences
microorganisms and isolating their
substances to
biotechnology a highly useful
against the environment;
polysaccharides. This has in turn
perform specific
tool. Indeed, it allowed Lipotec to
novel biotechnological active
led to the increasing popularity of
industrial processes, biotechnology
develop sustainable, innovative,
ingredients that harness these
marine ingredients, particularly as
has been used for many years
naturally-sourced active ingredients
survival mechanisms may be of
novel sources of EPSs.1
to obtain some of the most
by taking advantage of nature
great interest and benefit to the
popular and well known products.
while preserving the environment.
cosmetic industry.
antibiotics, synthetic hormones
A Marine Approach
brand of novel biomolecules,
exopolysaccharide obtained
and even vaccines result from the
Organisms that inhabit a
capitalizes on these unique
through biotechnology by
application of biotechnology to
complex ecosystem develop
characteristics. It is possible
the fermentation of a marine
different fields and disciplines. This
unique chemical structures and
to achieve the sustainable
bacterial strain of the genus
technology is now being employed
bioactivities — and the sea is a
production of cosmetically
Pseudoalteromonas sp. This
by dynamic cosmetic companies
perfect example of just such an
efficacious bioactive ingredients
bacterium was collected from a
that refuse to be left behind and
ecosystem. The ocean, which
from natural agents using
colony of mussels in an intertidal
wish to obtain effective and
constitutes the highest percentage
biotechnology — and to
area in the Douarnenez bay in
sustainable active ingredients —
of living biosphere and 70% of the
safeguard biodiversity.
Brittany, where high tides cover
and its advantages include the
Earth’s surface, is a vast source of
potential of finding molecules that,
biodiversity. It is the habitat of a
themselves from surrounding
tides gradually expose them to
owing to technical or economic
wide range of organisms, which
unpropitious conditions causes
desiccation and other drastic
restrictions, could be impossible to
must develop special mechanisms
microorganisms inhabiting
environmental changes. As a
gain through chemical reactions.
to bear its conditions: marine
intertidal zones to develop
result of these stressing factors, the
In fact, the use of science and
microorganisms live in complex
specific physiological and
microorganisms of these mussels
engineering in the manufacturing
ecosystems that can be exposed to
biochemical characteristics.
develop protective systems,
processes helps to achieve an
high levels of salinity, temperature
These special features can lead
in which exopolysaccharides
optimal bioprocess performance,
and pressure gradients, toxic
to the production of different
probably play a key role. As a
which bodes well for the adequate
elements and, oxidative conditions,
chemical structures and several
special cosmetic ingredient born
growth and maximum productivity
amongst others, which represent
bioactivities, including unique
from marine biotechnology,
of microorganisms.
a survival challenge. To protect
EPS. The interesting properties
Hyadisine can play an effective role
that they have been found to
in formulations with instant wrinkle
offer the cosmetic industry have
reduction activity. Furthermore,
The growing demand for new
Cheese, wine, yoghurt, beer,
Biointec, Lipotec’s product
Figure 1: Average values of in vivo hydration improvements after 7 and 24 hours of the first application of the creams.
20
As part of this project, Lipotec has recently revealed its active
The necessity of protecting
ingredient Hyadisine, an
the mussels in water and low
Figure 2: Hydration improvement variations (%) with respect to the values at the beginning of the in vivo treatment.
January/February 2012
Figure 3: Maximum roughness reduction variations (%) with respect to the values at the beginning of the in vivo treatment.
the right side of the face and a
natural substrate for skin cells).
placebo on left side twice a day
Moreover, a wound healing in
for 20 days. Skin hydration and
vitro assay was performed by
roughness variations after single
inducing a linear wound on a
and repeated applications of
culture of HEK (human embryonic
the cream were then studied;
kidney) differentiated cells,
measures of skin moisturization
which was monitored for 7 days
were performed using a
in the absence of FCS (Fetal Calf
Corneometer CM 825 and skin
Serum). Antarcticine accelerated
imprints were analysed with
the wound healing process,
designed image processing
dermal fibroblast adhesion and
software (Quantilines, Monaderm).
epidermal keratinocytes growth,
Hyadisine was found to instantly
thus confirming that it is an
improve the appearance of
essential ingredient for achieving
wrinkles and provided immediate
skin regenerative effects.
hydration to the skin, presenting
In addition, Antarcticine also
a long-lasting moisturizing effect.
possesses excellent anti-wrinkle
Additionally, it also demonstrated
efficacy. An in vivo test was
this effect in in vivo tests.
performed in which a cream
Antarcticine was studied for
containing the active ingredient
its cryoprotective activity by
was applied twice daily for 30
monitoring the fluorescence
days around the eyes of healthy
release of the self-quenching
volunteers with crow’s feet. Silicon
carboxyfluorescein that is
imprints were obtained before and
contained in liposomes submitted
after the treatment period before
to freezing and defrosting cycles.
being analysed by confocal laser
During frosting, intracellular water
scanning microscopy.
molecules form crystals that
Figure 4: Skin topography images before (left) and after a 30 day treatment with a cream containing 5% Antarcticine (right).
can damage or break cellular
Conclusions
membranes — cryoprotecting
Biotechnology offers a novel
products can modify the crystal
means of harnessing the power
morphology or even avoid
of biodiversity for cosmetic
their formation, thus preventing
purposes — it has allowed
damage to the lipidic bilayers.
Lipotec to develop sustainable
The study results indicated
innovative active ingredients
that Antarcticine has a high
from natural sources, including
cryoprotective effect on the
those of marine origin. The major
bilayers and prevents them from
aim is to apply biotechnological
sustaining damage or breaking.
techniques to obtain non-
owing to its immediate and long-
Efficacy Evaluation
lasting moisturizing effect, it is also
Hyadisine was postulated as
suitable for products in which a
having similar cosmetic properties
quick and durable moisturizing
to hyaluronic acid (HA) as a result
induction was evaluated by an
through sustainable processes
increase is required.
of the two being rich in the same
ELISA assay on human dermal
that work to preserve the
monosaccharide — glucuronic
fibroblasts (HDF). Absorbance
environment, without harvesting
biotechnological strategy is the well
acid — and to support this
readings were processed, type
or extractions. PHM
known glycoprotein Antarcticine,
hypothesis in vitro and in vivo
I collagen concentrations were
which has been a key ingredient
tests were performed on the
measured and the percentage
for Lipotec since its pioneering
exopolysaccharide. Its water
of induction was calculated.
launch. At the beginning of 1988,
retention profile in relation to HA
Antarcticine showed excellent
a scientific expedition collected a
was determined by the Dynamic
skin restructuring properties
bacterial strain from sludge samples
Vapour Sorption technique — a
owing to its dermal proteins,
from several Antarctic glaciers, from
gravimetric method that measures
which boost, among others,
which they were able to isolate five
the velocity and quantity of solvent
type I collagen — crucial for
different strains of aerobic bacteria.
absorbed by a sample. Hyadisine
maintaining skin structure.
Consequently, the bacterial strain
presented a better DVS profile than
Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica
HA and was shown to retain more
observed in HDF grown on
NF3 was isolated from the samples
hydration — and at a faster rate —
coated Antarcticine cultures by
collected from the bottom of
which suggested a hyaluronic-like
the CVDE method. The adhesion
a glacier in the region of Inlet
moisturizing behaviour.
increase was much higher than
Another example of this
Admiralty Bay. During cell growth,
Two panels of volunteers
The ingredient’s collagen
References
1. C. Zhenming, et al., “Exopolysaccharides From Marine Bacteria,” J. Ocean Univ. China 4(1): 67–74 (2005). 2. S. Shingo, et al., “Hyaluronan Exists in the Normal Stratum Corneum,” J. Invest. Dermatol. 114 1184–1187 (2000).
Significant bioadhesion was
that observed with the positive
this strain produced the glycoprotein
applied a cream containing the
control; a type I collagen coating
exopolymer Antarcticine.
new biotechnical ingredient on
at the same concentration (a
2012 January/February
genetically modified ingredients
For more information Raquel Merino Media Relations Lipotec rmerino@lipotec.com www.lipotec.com
21
Nutricosmetics
It Starts with a Sip…
This year will see the rise of a new antiageing beverage that is set to become a key player in the beauty market and change the traditional beauty regime for good: Minerva Research Labs has launched Pure Gold Collagen, a collagen-based skincare drink that manages to be both tasty and effectual. Offering a natural antiageing solution and claiming to promote beautiful skin, it’s not surprising that the product has attracted
T
the attention of consumers and industry alike. he beverage aims
drinking collagen can re-activate
land of the rising sun and other
giant Shiseido has launched
to promote younger
collagen in the skin and fight the
developed nations in the Far East.
its own drink, “The Collagen”.
looking skin, improve
ageing process. The next chapter
Before the rise in popularity
skin hydration
in the story of the beauty industry
of nutricosmetics, the necessity
however, the collagen concept
and reduce the
is being written.
of health and yearning for
has taken a comparatively long
beauty led to the recognition of
time to catch on and is generally
appearance of deep wrinkles
In developed Western nations,
through its formula of hydrolysed
A Brief History
collagen’s benefits. In Japan it is
limited to unappetising collagen
collagen, borage oil, hyaluronic
Collagen has been recognized
a key essential or super ingredient
powders that must be mixed with
acid and vitamins. Affecting
as beneficial to human health
in a variety of top notch and
water or juice and can have a
the skin’s appearance from
for centuries. In traditional
expensive antiageing skin care
rather unpleasant taste.
within, it counteracts the ageing
Asian cultures it has long been
ranges. It has even made its way
process where it begins. The
acknowledged as a cosmetic
to Japanese restaurants, in which
The Skin
oral consumption of collagen
product that helps to prevent skin
beauty conscious women enjoy
The skin is the largest organ of
bypasses the skin, which often
ageing — indeed, the collagen
collagen-rich food. Although only
the human body — it acts as
acts as a barrier to creams —
craze can be traced to the
available in Japan, even cosmetic
the main barrier to the external environment and is composed of multiple layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous tissue. The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin and is itself divided into several layers, with the stratum corneum — which is extremely difficult to penetrate and thus the first barrier to external elements — being on the outermost part. Deeper down is the dermis, rich in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which contribute to the structure, elasticity and hydration of the skin. The ability of biological particles to reach the dermis of the skin through the epidermis is, however, limited. The deepest layer of the skin, the subcutaneous tissue, is composed primarily of fat.
Why Collagen? Collagen comprises the main structural element of the skin and its super family contains approximately 28 different proteins, which account for 30%
Figure 1: Decrease of collagen with age.
22
of the total protein mass of the
January/February 2012
Pure Health Magazine spoke with Tony Sanguinetti, MD and founder of Minerva Research Labs, to learn more about the man, the product and the market. PHM: What was your background in the beauty industry before the founding of Minerva? TS: I was lucky to work in the fashion business in the midst of the 80’s and early 90’s. I was involved in fashion shows and had the chance to work as photographer with the most beautiful models in Milan, Paris and New York. This was a time of great
Figure 2: Increase in skin hydration associated with consumption of hydrolysed collagen.
fervour and growth: several top designers made the leap to becoming global brands. Working as a photographer I learned how to portray beauty and, more importantly, how to represent it with style, femininity and to some degree sensuality — harmony and balance between light, shadow, body posture and facial expression were the essence of each picture. There was something magical — something divine — about beauty. Eventually I moved away from the industry but have maintained a deep admiration for natural beauty, in addition to femininity. PHM: What inspired you to produce Gold Collagen — did you have any guidance or support from anyone? TS: I’m still convinced that beauty is about harmony, confidence, character, posture and expression. I truly feel that beauty is not about heavy makeup or cosmetic surgery, but strongly believe it to
Figure 3: The decrease in the formation of deep wrinkles that is associated with consumption of hydrolysed collagen.
be about health. I have nothing against ageing per se; however, our current lifestyle is full of stress, tension at work, an increasingly
human body. Collagen protein
be identified. Intrinsic ageing is
competitive environment and less security, all of which contribute
consists of three polypeptide
mainly caused by the passage of
to accelerating the ageing process. This is particularly visible on the
chains (each of approximately
time, whereas extrinsic ageing is
skin where deep wrinkles, reduced colouring and skin brightness
1000 Amino Acids), named
primarily a result of sun exposure
betray age.
a-chains, which form a triple
— also known as photo-ageing.
During a business trip to Japan I was exposed to a new trend:
helix — multiple triple helices
Although a result of different
collagen drinks and treatments. More importantly, I was fascinated
form a collagen fibril. The unique
mechanisms, both cases include
by the Japanese approach to beauty as a natural characteristic
physical properties of collagen
a decrease of the skin’s collagen
to be developed from within and discovered that their beauty
fibres confer structural integrity
levels, which causes the skin
philosophy is all about harmony. I was so captured and inspired by
to the skin, forming a dense
to lose its normal structure and
this that I left my corporate job to start Minerva with my Japanese
network throughout the dermis.
wrinkles to form (Figure 1).
friend and co-founder, Akio Shindate. We collected a team of scientific researchers in Japan and a team of creative designers
Normal collagen formation is
in the UK. Our mission became to create something that would
body, including bones, cartilage,
Hydrolysed Collagen to Prevent the Ageing Process
gums, tendons and blood
Replenishing collagen in the dermis
vessels. The collagen in the skin is
is the key to healthy and youthful
mainly produced by fibroblasts
skin. Many topically applied
TS: We were looking for something engaging, memorable and easy
— cells that are present in the
commercial products containing
to associate with the product. We realized that most women would
dermis and also responsible for
collagen, for example creams and
immediately recognize collagen as an important element of beauty.
the production of elastin and
serums, claim the ability to act
We worked very hard on the packaging and decided to make it
hyaluronic acid. Fibroblasts are
on the dermis, where they would
unique by developing the logo in the style of Japanese writing, on
sensitive to physical and chemical
induce an increase in collagen
a vertical line. We then characterized the “collagen” as “gold” to
stimuli, which can induce both
levels. However, the fact that
emphasize its value.
their activation and proliferation.
collagen is a large molecule (300
also required for the structure of many other tissues in the
kDa) and cannot penetrate the
How Ageing Effects Skin In time, skin structure and
change the face of beauty. PHM: Tell us a little about Gold Collagen — what is the origin of the product name?
PHM: What is Gold Collagen’s target market?
epidermis limits its effects on the
TS: Anyone above the age of 25 who cares about the health of
skin surface.
their skin and does not want make-up and cosmetic surgery to
It is, however, possible to
be the only available options for improving their appearance.
elasticity decrease as a result
reach the dermis by acting
We target individuals who understand that “we are what we
of the ageing process. Two
from within and the oral intake
eat” or who wish to complement their diet. Our target consumer
different mechanisms of ageing
of hydrolysed collagen thus
is interested having more elastic, firmer, more hydrated —
— intrinsic and extrinsic — can
represents an effective solution to
essentially younger looking — skin.
2012 January/February
23
Nutricosmetics
PHM: How would you recommend Pure Gold Collagen to your target
formula that has been specifically
cellular function; borage oil is rich
market?
developed to offer a unique
in gamma-linolenic acids (GLAs)
TS: A great deal of research has gone into Gold Collagen’s unique
blend of collagen and active
with omega-6 essential fatty
formulation, which is a powerful blend of active ingredients formulated
ingredients for high absorption
acids to improve skin hydration.
for maximum absorption and bioavailability. These elements are
and bioavailability. Designed to
In terms of vitamins, vitamin C
clinically proven to provide significant benefits to the skin and, more
target the deeper layer of the
contributes to normal collagen
specifically, the deeper layer of skin — the dermis. Gold Collagen’s
skin — the dermis — it addresses
formation and skin function,
special formulation and delivery mechanism activates the formation
the root of the ageing process to
vitamin E impacts the protection
of collagen in the dermis, thus strengthening the skin structure and
obtain the highest efficacy of its
of cell constituents from oxidative
increasing elasticity and smoothness. The beauty drink endows the
key ingredients.
damage and, finally, vitamin B6
skin with a healthy glow in addition to benefiting hair and nails. To
The product contains a blend
promotes normal energy yielding
conclude, much time, effort and expertise have been employed to
of the best quality hydrolysed
metabolism and a reduction in
make the product a tasty yet effective supplement for the daily diet.
collagen extracted from
tiredness and fatigue.
fish, which is rich in specific PHM: What do you think is the future for collagen drinks — will they
amino acids: glycine, proline
Clinical Studies
become as ubiquitous as moisturizers?
and hydroxyproline. When
Clinical studies have confirmed
TS: It has been proven that the oral intake of certain types of collagen
administered orally, hydrolysed
the efficacy of hydrolysed
can benefit our health; collagen is a key component of the skin,
collagen is digested in the small
collagen. A double-blind,
joints, tendons, blood vessels and bones. We use the highest quality
intestine to form dipeptides and
randomized, placebo-controlled
collagen in our product — it is 100% natural, extracted from fish and
tripeptides, or free amino acids.
clinical trial carried out in Japan
we have full knowledge of its origins. High availability of such collagen
Clinical and in vivo studies have
on 33 women aged from 40–59
in the diet can bring significant advantages and, as a result, I expect
shown these peptides to possess
with normal to dry skin, showed
its consumption to grow considerably, reaching levels similar to those
high biological activity and to be
a 28% increase in skin hydration
of certain other natural products or functional drinks that have an
easily absorbed across the small
associated with comsuming 10 g
established role in our diets.
intestine membrane, where they
of Hydrolysed Collagen Peptan
enter the blood stream. Collagen
per day, for 8 weeks (Figure 2).
PHM: What do you forecast for Gold Collagen in the future?
peptides are then distributed in
TS: I predict that Gold Collagen will become a key component of
blood vessels through the human
blind, randomized, placebo-
many women’s beauty regimes. It delivers a new level of innovation
body — in particular in the dermis
controlled clinical trial carried out
to a very large and crowded market across both the cosmetic and
of the skin, where it has been
in France on 47 women aged from
nutraceutical industries. I believe that the customer is ready for this
proven to remain for up to 14 days.
35–55 years with normal to dry
In addition, another double-
skin, revealed that consumption
new concept and will cause its star to ascend.
The Mechanism of Action
of 10 g of hydrolysed collagen
Once in the skin, Pure Gold
associated with a 30% decrease
Collagen acts with a dual
in the formation of deep wrinkles
mechanism. First, collagen
(Figure 3).
peptan per day for 12 weeks was
peptides stimulate the activity
More than simply a new
and proliferation of fibroblasts,
product, Pure Gold Collagen is the
which are in turn responsible
start of a new market trend that
for the production of collagen,
is characterized by a consumer
elastin and hyaluronic acid.
movement away from surgical
Second, collagen peptides and
procedures, towards a natural,
free amino acids provide the
effective and reliable solution
building blocks for the formation
to antiageing. Its collagen -rich
of collagen and elastin fibres. In
formula and pleasant taste act
particular, increasing the number
as a strong foundation for this
(or proliferation) of fibroblasts and
innovative product, which is set to
the problem. Hydrolysed collagen
spans the range of 0.3–8 kDa. Its
their activity facilitates a boost in
become a vital part of the beauty
consists of small peptides
low molecular weight provides
the levels of collagen, elastin and
regimes of women all over the
with a low molecular weight,
hydrolysed collagen with several
hyaluronic acid in the dermis.
world. The market is changing
extracted from native collagen.
advantages over native collagen:
Generally, collagen molecules
hydrolysed collagen can be
A Unique Blend
are denatured and partially
dissolved in cold water, is highly
This high quality hydrolysed
hydrolysed to form gelatin
digestible and, furthermore, is
collagen is complemented with
(100 kDa), which can then be
easily absorbed and distributed in
other essential key ingredients,
decomposed into small peptides
the human body.
namely hyaluronic acid, borage
using specific proteins with
and, moving forwards, skincare will start with a sip… PHM
oil, N-Acetylglucosamine,
cleavage activity (proteinase).
The Solution
vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B6.
The molecular weight distribution
Pure Gold Collagen is a new
Hyaluronic acid is essential for
of collagen peptides usually
skincare drink based on a
tissue hydration, lubrication and
24
For more information
Tony Sanguinetti Founder, Minerva Research Labs Tel. +44 2031 377 731 info@minervalabs.com www.gold-collagen.com
January/February 2012
Nutricosmetics
Crossing Continents French Beauty Drinks for the Asian Market Despite being a relatively niche market, the nutricosmetics sector is regarded as one to watch by industry
analysts, WHO believe there to be potential for dynamic growth. Emerging from the nutraceutical movement, nutricosmetics first gained popularity in Japan and Europe — and are only now trickling into the US. In 2008, The Kline Group valued the global nutricosmetics market at $1.5 billion, of which Europe accounted for 55%, followed by Japan at 41% and the US at 3%. A February 2010 nutricosmetics report by Mintel Beauty Innovation found that new
I
product activity worldwide doubled between 2008 and 2009, with 300 new products launched in THE LATTER. ngredients suppliers have
(Pycnogenol) for a lighter and
responded to the promised
unified complexion. Aurélie De
growth of this market by
Schuyteneer, the company’s
investigating the potential
marketing manager, explains the
oral beauty applications of
logic behind this latest launch:
their ingredients and intensifying
“Solutions to achieve smooth,
their scientific studies. French
flawless, youthful and glowing
nutraceutical manufacturer
white skin are very popular
Laboratoire PYC have been keen
in South East Asia. Leading
to participate in this burgeoning
cosmetics brands continually
sector, developing a range of
innovate to give women and
powder instant beauty drinks —
men the possibility of obtaining
and it now extends its services
this unified skin appeal. We
beyond Europe to address the
have tried to develop a natural
Asian market. Its first nutricosmetic
solution that is efficacious without
offering was introduced in 2008:
being aggressive; the efficiency
Slim & Sun was designed to
of Pearl My Skin is based on
prepare skin for sun exposure
several clinical studies carried
and was followed in 2009 by a
out on Pycnogenol French pine
proven to lighten hyper-pigmented
colour chart and, by at the end of
collagen-based drink, Collagen
bark extract.” The product,
skin through oral intake.
the study period, had lowered by
Beauty Booster, which integrated
which has strong antioxidant
Peptan hydrolyzed collagen to
properties, is proven to slow
Chinese women aged from 29–59
In general, a significant effect was
fight signs of ageing. The company
hyperpigmentation and reduce
and presenting brownish spots was
determined in 80% of the subjects,
turned its attention to battling
skin pigmentation intensity.
carried out. Subjects consumed
which corresponds to a reduction
75 mg of Pycnogenol per day for
of the pigmentary intensity of one to
skin imperfections in 2010, when
A clinical study involving 30
an average of approximately 22%.
it launched Skin’Pure, which
Product Action
1 month. Periodically, the hyper-
two units (using a standard colour
harnesses the antioxidant and
The skin of the face is more
pigmented area was analysed
chart) and to a decrease in the
sebum regulating properties of
susceptible to developing brown
planimetrically and the pigmentary
initial brownish spot size of one third.
zinc and a complex of lactoferrin–
spots or patches than other parts
intensity rated colourimetrically.
rich milk proteins. This year saw
of the body. To counteract them,
Laboratoire PYC present two new
aggressive chemical peeling
spots was measured at three
Anti-Melanogenic Effect
instant beauty drinks in Asia: one
agents are often applied to the
different places and the mean
Melanine, a major pigment in
containing natural vegetal French
skin, despite the fact that some are
value determined. On average,
human skin colour, is synthesized
wheat ceramides (Lipowheat)
known to cause irreversible skin
after a 1 month course, the area
in melanocytes. Melanogenesis
for skin hydration, and the other
damage — Pycnogenol French
size of these spots was reduced by
is activated by oxidation-related
— Pearl My Skin — incorporating
pine bark is a natural and non-
37%. The pigmentary intensity was
processes such as UV radiation
natural French pine bark extract
aggressive solution that is clinically
rated using the national standard
and requires tyrosine kinase
26
The diameter of the brownish
January/February 2012
2012 January/February
27
Nutricosmetics
collaborating to develop efficient
help to maximize skin hydration, as
solutions and fast effects.
designed to complete the action of a moisturizing cream, rather
Figure 1: Pycnogenol’s effect on the UV dose causing sunburn.
On-the-go Products and Natural Formulae
than substitute that action. As a
Another key to convincing
daily personal care regime needs
consumers is simplicity:
boosting. Although consumers
“creating innovative and simple
appreciate quick, efficient
formulae based on dedicated
results, they also wish the use of
nutricosmetics ingredients and
cosmetics to be a pleasurable
presenting products in a simple
experience and, as topical
and easy-to-use product form”
applications include soft textures
is necessary for success. The Age
and employ the use of fragrances,
of Naturals records that nearly
beauty drinks should address the
75% of the women surveyed
importance of taste.
result, nutricosmetics are used as a ‘cure’ for when people feel their
said they would be willing to try
“As you have pleasure taking care of your body with soft textures
kinase inhibitors and photo-
Consumer Confidence
nutricosmetic products, with an “on-the-go” delivery system as
and nice perfumes, beauty drinks
protectors may improve cutaneous
De Schuyteneer also emphasizes
the preferred choice. Several
should satisfy taste immediately”,
hyper-pigmentary disorders and
that “scientific backing is of major
nutraceutical companies,
affirms Aurélie De Schuyteneer.
complexion discolorations. In
importance” to these offerings,
including Laboratoire PYC,
Consumers desire a range of
vitro experiments were carried
highlighting that “lack of evidence”
have invested in developing
appealing tastes in beauty drinks
out on Pycnogenol pine bark
is often quoted in consumer studies
‘stick packs’ for ease of use
and to address this Laboratoire
extract and results suggested that
as an obstacle to the development
and on-the-go characteristics.
PYC employs many natural
Pycnogenol inhibits tyrosine kinase
of the nutricosmetics market. It
Consumers can thus choose to
flavours, including lemon, apple
in melanocytes: in Pycnogenol
is also important to consider the
nourish their skin at their leisure
and grapefruit. De Schuyteneer
treated cells, melanin synthesis
speed of action of such products;
at home or at any time during a
continues: ”People don’t like to feel
was effectively suppressed in
a recent consumer study found
busy day.
that they are drinking a drug. They
a dose-related manner, which
that not being able to see benefits
suggests that the extract reduces
immediately features in the top five
“number of uses” per day; if
addition to being refreshing, helps
the generation of skin pigments.
reasons not to buy nutricosmetics
the product covers the daily
to improve the health and beauty
Furthermore, Pycnogenol’s in vitro
(Mintel report: Nutricosmetics —
recommended dose with only one
of their skin.”
effect was significantly stronger
Ingestible Beauty). According
nutritional supplement, consumers
than that of kojic acid.
to the Pink Report, The Age of
will be more willing to continue
Naturals, published in January
the course. It is also reflected in
Photo-Protection
Nutricosmetics: What’s Next?
2008, there was little variation
a product’s formulation and the
Increasing awareness among
Exposure to sunlight greatly
between the length of time
extent to which it addresses the
consumers, an ageing population
contributes to oxidative stress,
within which consumers expect
natural health trend for food,
and an inclination towards less
which is known to be involved
cosmeceutical or nutraceutical
cosmetics and personal care; as
invasive beauty treatments will
in the over-production of skin
products to effect visible results
De Schuyteneer remarks: “It makes
help to drive the nutricosmetics
pigments. Laboratoire PYC has
— 2 weeks to 1 month was the
sense to develop nutricosmetics
market in the next few years.
developed a formula combining
time frame cited by more than
that are free of preservatives and
According to Global Industry
strong antioxidant active
80% of respondents. As a result,
artificial colours and flavours.”
Anlaysts (GIA) in “Nutricosmetics:
compounds — vitamins C and E
ingredients suppliers and contract
and Pycnogenol — to actively
manufacturers
protect skin from sun damage.
have much
The oral supplementation of 21
to gain by
activity — consequently, tyrosine
volunteers with Pycnogenol was shown to offer protection from
prefer an instant drink which, in
Simplicity depends on the
A Global Strategic Business
Nutricosmetics: The New Cosmetics? Nutricosmetics should not
which drink and instant drink
as replacements for
manufacturers must continue to
sunburn, with a dose-manner
cosmetics — Laboratoire
effect (Figure 1).
PYC’s solution with wheat clinically proven to
market will reach $4.24bn by 2017 — a promising market for
necessarily be considered
ceramides, which are
Report,” the global nutricosmetics
develop applications. PHM
For more information
Aurélie de Schuyteneer Marketing Manager Laboratoire PYC Tel. +33 488 785 800 aurelie.deschuyteneer@ laboratoire-pyc.com www.laboratoire-pyc.com
28
January/February 2012
t n e v e H C n U A L
CelebratingExcellence InPersonalCare The Personal Care Awards, in association with Pure Health Magazine, is a launch event for the B2B personal care, cosmetic and Beauty from Within industry. The gala dinner event will celebrate excellence and innovation in R&D, marketing, business and technology within the personal care industry, across the entire sector, including ingredients, production, finished products, applications and business practices.
nt e v e e r o for m o to... info g
www.personalcareawards.com
Formulation
Silicones An Invaluable Ingredient Silicones can be found in thousands of applications, in sectors that range from electronics to construction and transport. Silicones also play an important role in personal care, wherein silicone fluids, emulsions, resins and waxes create many of the positive qualities we associate with cosmetics.
B
ringing a wide
and lasting shape to flexible
also used in protective sprays,
tailored to men’s specific
range of aesthetic
hold, natural sheen, protection
lip balms, cooling aftersun
skincare needs. Men’s facial
and technical
from the elements and from
body lotions and aftersun hair
skin is stressed by regular
benefits to
the wear and tear caused
spray, as well as in self-tanning
shaving and therefore needs
formulations,
by blow-drying. In ethnic
applications. They reduce
specific care and protection.
silicones are used by producers
hair care, silicones are used
greasiness and improve sweat
Silicones bring smoothness
and formulators to enhance
in conditioning creams and
resistance, making products
and softness to aftershaves
softness and give products
treatments and to protect the
easier to spread and thus
and cleansing lotions, also
a luxurious texture and
hair’s cuticle. As a result, hair
ensuring that the skin is evenly
offering a light, non-greasy
protecting effects. Silicones are
products that contain silicones
protected.
and non-irritating feel.
not only stable, long-lasting
have become popular for their
and odourless, they are also
power to make it shiny and soft,
and glossy finish to cosmetics,
siloxanes cyclotetrasiloxane
extremely compatible — even
remove frizz, protect hair from
carrying and binding colour
and cyclopentasiloxane,
with non-synthetics — leading
heat and a whole lot more.
and allowing it to spread evenly
have been proven to be safe
the trend in hybrid materials,
Although some soaps and
while maintaining product
for humans, wildlife and the
such as part-silicone, part-
shower gels can strip oil from
stability. Silicones are versatile,
environment. Silicones degrade
organic substances known
the skin’s surface, leaving it dry
which means they can be used
in the environment into silicon
as organomodified silicones.
and flaky, silicones have been
in formulations for lip, face and
dioxide (sand), carbon dioxide
Water-resistance is an essential
used to improve moisturization
eye beauty products. Even just
and water. The many beneficial
property for suncare products
in skin products. They offer
a small amount of silicones in
properties of silicones in
and long-lasting make-up such
improved spreadability in
make-up can help to smooth
personal care products allow
as lipsticks and mascaras; and
silicone-based shower and bath
out lines. They are also used in
them to last longer, spread
silicones deliver in this area
formulations and improved
antiperspirants and deodorants
better, stay flexible or rigid as
too. Even the trend for kissable
foam control and superior foam
because of their volatility,
required, withstand extreme
lipglosses is partly owing to
profile in products that lather.
which gives a dry, non-cooling
temperatures and much more.
the staying power of silicones.
In short, silicones provide a
feel. The use of silicones in
Their versatility helps producers
Silicone-based personal care
protective barrier that allows
deodorants and antiperspirants
and formulators to respond
products are good moisturizers,
the skin to breathe while
allows formulators to meet
to consumer demand while
keeping actives present for
optimizing moisture retention.
consumer demand for low-cost
ensuring consumer safety and
products with fast-drying action
environmental protection. PHM
longer and returning softness
Consumers today are acutely
Silicones give a smooth
Silicones, including the volatile
and vitality to the surface of
aware of the need to protect
and reduced white residue.
the skin. Silicones’ low chemical
their skin from the sun, not just at
These products minimize
reactivity and low toxicity make
the beach but also throughout
irritation, provide moisturizing,
them well suited to personal
everyday life in the city. Two
rapid absorption and non-
care products.
important properties of silicones,
cooling characteristics and
Silicones have been used
sun protection factor (SPF)
improved salt suspension to
in hair products for decades
enhancement — which helps to
reduce shine.
as their properties help to
spread the active filters on the
meet an increasing range
skin — and water-resistance,
currently the largest growing
of consumer demands, from
make them essential ingredients
skincare market and silicones
softness, volume, frizz control
in sunscreen. Silicones are
deliver practical benefits
30
Male personal care is
For more information
Dr Michel De Poortere Secretary General European Silicones Centre (CES) Avenue van Nieuwenhuyse 4, Box 2 B-1160 Brussels, Belgium. Tel. +32 2 676 7369 silicones@cefic.be www.silicones.eu
January/February 2012
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FORMULATION
Creating Luxurious, Creamy Cleansers with Opacifiers
Scrambling to meet the personal care product demands of their consumers, formulators are often
faced with making choices and sacrifices during the development of their next shampoo or body wash. Now, THEY no longer have to choose between conditioning benefits and creamy textures in cleansing formulations.
W
ith opacifying
Care specifically developed
to create luxurious, creamy
containing high levels of
technologies
OPULYN PQG Opacifier to
formulas with a rich feel. When
betaine. Certain parameters,
such as the
be compatible with cationic
used with dyes, it imparts a high
such as the cationic substitution
new OPULYN
conditioning polymers and
whiteness or a pastel colour
or the molecular weight of the
PQG Opacifier (INCI Name:
allow for the long-term stability
effect. OPULYN PQG is effective
cationic polymers, can pose
ethalkonium chloride acrylate/
of conditioning cleansing
at low use levels and comes in
additional stability challenges
HEMA/styrene copolymer)
products. It is also suitable
an easy-to-use liquid.
in a formulation containing an
launched earlier this year
for formulating body washes
by Dow Personal Care, a
with high concentrations of
Opacifier is the newest member
conditions, ACULYN 38 or
business of The Dow Chemical
amphoteric surfactants.
of the Dow Personal Care
ACULYN 88 rheology modifiers
OPULYN Opacifier family, it has
are a preferred choice as
Company, formulators can
As a novel, distinct opacifier,
Although OPULYN PQG
opacifier. For highly challenging
develop body washes,
OPULYN PQG broadens the
the broadest compatibility
a primary or secondary
shampoos and liquid hand
formulator’s options when
in the presence of cationic
thickening agent. Their high
soaps that are both creamy
designing conditioning
ingredients. During formulation,
efficiency and excellent
and conditioning. Traditional
cleansing formulations. It is
the components, iconicity
suspension performance will
anionic and non-ionic
highly versatile for use in anionic
and pH should be chosen for
both build viscosity and help
opacifiers have very little to
surfactant-based systems across
optimal stability. OPULYN PQG
to prevent flocculation or
no compatibility with cationic
a broad pH range and is ideally
Opacifier can be formulated
sedimentation. As shown in
conditioning polymers
suited for systems containing
within a pH range of 4.0 –10.00.
the chart on the left in Figure
such as polyquaternium-7,
cationic polymers. It is also well
Because of low dosage rates,
3, formulations combining
polyquaternium-10 and
suited to systems with high levels
the low pH of OPULYN PQG
traditional opacifiers with high
cationic guar derivatives. The
of betaine and is suggested
Opacifier should not affect
levels of betaine are often
graph on the left in Figure 1
for body wash, shampoo and
the pH of the final formulation.
instable owing to low pH levels.
illustrates the sedimentation
liquid hand soap formulations
Minor pH adjustments may be
The chart on the right illustrates
issues observed with traditional
that contain polyquaternium-7,
required as a final step. The
the improvements in stability
opacifiers in a formulation
polyquaternium-10,
suggested use level for OPULYN
that can be achieved in these
containing polyquaternium-10.
cationic guar derivatives or
PQG Opacifier is 0.5 –1.0% as
formulation conditions with the
The graph on the right shows
combinations of these. OPULYN
supplied, depending on the
use of OPULYN PQG. PHM
the same formulation with
PQG Opacifier imparts uniform
desired appearance of the
the addition of OPULYN PQG
opacity and a lotionized
final product.
as an opacifier. As illustrated,
appearance to formulations
the formulation developed
by efficiently scattering light
sedimentation are the two
with OPULYN PQG does not
while effectively hiding amber
most common symptoms
show any loss of stability
casts or haziness, as depicted in
of formulation instability,
with time. Dow Personal
Figure 2. It enables formulators
particularly in formulations
32
Flocculation and
For more information
Fabienne Bizeray European Product Marketing Manager Dow Personal Care www.opulyn.com
January/February 2012
www.nutraceuticalmag.com
NUTRACEUTICAL
BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY
Where food and pharma meet
NBT is your musT-read source of News, updaTes aNd developmeNTs iN The fuNcTioNal food, NuTraceuTical, dieTary supplemeNT aNd iNgredieNT iNdusTry. www.nutraceuticalmag.com Probiotics Restoring the balance Claims under pressure
cosmetic Focus Marketing products in Southern Africa
Volume 7 Number 2
March/April 2011
Functional bakery, sPorts nutrition, cognitive HealtH and more
Women’s HealtH EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLES Supplementing the fairer sex
•
ingredients • functional foods • nutraceuticals • supplements • raw materials •
EXCLUSIVE EVENT See website for details on Awards and Exclusive Business Roundtabe
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EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLE
LAST WORD
Uniformly Smooth
Continuously operating in-line pipeline mixers that are designed to blend, emulsify and breakdown agglomerates can successfully handle delicate dilution applications, such as the manufacture of washing-up liquid.
E
mploying a
completely uniform product.
input flows. Pipeline mixers have a
found in more restrictive
high-speed
The high operating speed and
high throughput-to-kW ratio and
motionless mixers.
rotor that runs in
reduced inlet port provide a
operate at a nominal speed of
close proximity
pumping effect that forces the
3000 rpm, although some of the
washing-up liquid product
to a fixed stator,
With a pipeline mixer, the
product to pass through the
smaller belt-driven in-line mixers
only requires one pass through
pipeline mixers contribute to the
restricted orifices in the stator.
operate at a nominal speed of
the mixing head to reach the
thorough wetting of dispersed
As the fluid passes through the
7200 rpm. In the manufacture
process downstream. This is
substances to create a
rotor and stator, the hydraulic
of washing up liquid, the in-line
because the entire process
shear breaks the product down
mixer can first perform the dilution
stream is directed through
to its primary particle size. The
(with deionized water) of FAES
the mixing head, eliminating
inlet is designed so that it is
(fatty acid ester sulphonate)
any chance of bypassing the
smaller than the line size, which
with 70% active matter, which is
high shear zone. Mixers are
ensures that the fluid is
taken directly from the storage
fitted with a tandem shear
forced through the mixer
tank. To meet the needs of this
mixing head, consisting of two
and acts as the first shear
process, it should be equipped
rotors and two stators to give
zone. Although the pipeline
with a variable speed drive that
additional product refinement.
mixer acts as a pump, it
adjusts to the actual production
The primary rotor forces material
should not be used as a
capacity; 9000–32,000 litres per
through the restricted openings
pumping unit.
hour, for example.
in the primary stator, then the
Designed with a fixed
secondary rotor and secondary
As soon as contact is made
gap setting of 0.2–0.3 mm,
with the water, a gel phase
stator. A multiport secondary
a pipeline mixer can
(70–30%) is formed, requiring the
stator can be utilized to further
handle viscosities of up to
mixer to dilute the base product
increase product refinement.
100,000 cPs (centipoises)
down to a concentration of less
and can also handle
than 30%. At the same time,
mixer should be capable of
products with larger
other surfactants and products
blending, emulsifying and
needed for the basic formulation
breaking down agglomerates —
are added and mixed into the
as well as producing a thorough
diluted material. The mixers then
wetting of dispersed substances
process the base materials,
to create a completely uniform
which requires a temperature-
product. This also makes
sensitive perfume to be added,
them ideal for use in polymer
together with components such
applications, polystyrene
as a matting agent, pigment
delumping, paint manufacture,
and preservatives. A static
food product refinements ,
mixer can also be used for this
amongst others. By requiring just
process. This mixer is designed
one pass of the components
with a patented helical mixing
through the mixer to make them
element that directs the flow of
ready for the process downstream,
material radially towards the pipe
an in-line unit can also be used
walls and back to the centre.
very effectively for the rapid
Additional velocity reversal
blending in the preparation of
and flow division results from
coating, the emulsification of
combining alternating right- and
mayonnaise and the delumping
left-hand elements to increase
of pharmaceutical slurries. PHM
viscosities if a positive displacement pump is used. This also allows variable
mixing efficiency. All material
For more information
is continuously and completely mixed, eliminating radial gradients in temperature, velocity and material composition. A suitable static mixer should maximize mixing efficiency without the wasted energy and material blockage typically
34
A robustly designed pipeline
Craig Levins Applications Engineer Chemineer 7 Cranmer Road West Meadows DE21 6XT, UK. Tel. +44 1332 363 175 craig.levins@robn.com www.chemineer.com
January/February 2012
Good looks, good sense. Cosmetics offer a feast for the senses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but what about the sense of responsibility? Evonik works with you to see your innovations through to completion, while at the same time living up to environmental responsibilities. That means you can create products appealing to the desire for good looks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the need to act with good sense.
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Essen, Germany phone +49 201 173 2854 personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care