PHM Jan 2012

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

SKINCARE

Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin Stem Cells in Skincare

Nutricosmetics It starts with a sip...

Crossing continents

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Silicones: An Invaluable Ingredient

ANTIAGEING The New Front Line

SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY INITIATIVES Eco-Certified Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite

www.purehealthmag.co.uk

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2011 autumn

12

CONTENTS ...

In

i s i th

e u s s

14

30 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012

Guest Editorial

05 The Cosmetic Stage: Enter Cosmetotextiles

Dominik Schneider

News and Products

06 A Round Up of the Latest

26

News and Updates

Industry Update

08 From Professional to Retail Imogen Matthews

Antiageing

10 The New Front Line in Antiageing Daniel Schmid

22

Skincare

12 Stem Cell Extracts in Topical Skincare Applications

Dr Simon Craw

14 A Natural Balancing Act Karen Sinclair Drake

18

16 Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin Véronique Martin

Sustainable Beauty Initiatives 18 Eco-Certified

Charlotte Hodgson and Stefano Togni

20 Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite

Raquel Merino

Nutricosmetics 22 It Starts with a Sip...

Tony Sanguinetti

26 Crossing Continents Aurélie De Schuyteneer

Cosmetic Ingredients

30 Silicones: An Invaluable Ingredient

Dr Michel De Poortere

FORMULATION 32 A Touch of Luxury

16

2012 January/February

08

Fabienne Bizeray

Last Word: 34 Uniformly Smooth

Craig Levine

3

Registered Office:

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GUEST EDITORIAL

The Cosmetic Stage

Enter Cosmetotextiles

T

he cosmetotextiles

Quiospheres moist’s hydrating

sphere has recently

and moisturizing properties are

undergone a flurry

based on two active ingredients

of innovation, driven

from Lipotec. Antarcticine is a

by the introduction

glycoprotein originally found

of novel mechanisms such as

in the Antarctic Sea, the main

Quiospheres, an advanced

cosmetic properties of which are

cosmetic and textile application

protecting the skin and helping

technology that delivers sought

its regeneration. Its capacity

after personal care benefits

to increase collagen synthesis

without any effort on the part

confers antiageing properties

of the wearer. This new high-

and it is suitable for use in

performance cosmetotextile

protecting the skin against harsh

is the product of collaboration

weather conditions. Xpertmoist

between Spanish cosmetic

is a molecular film that provides

ingredient manufacturer Lipotec

a highly moisturizing effect and

and Clariant, the Swiss-based

delivers a pleasant feeling to

global textile solutions provider.

the skin.

As a result of this co-operation,

Quiospheres slim is based

high strength cosmetic and skin

on the Spanish company’s

enhancement ingredients have

Liporeductyl and Relistase

been incorporated into a broad

actives. Liporeductyl is a

range of fabrics, thus facilitating

pro-liposomal combination

step technology — or simply

continues for an extended

a wide range of end products:

of slimming ingredients and a

an attraction and reaction

period of time — not only are

from clothing, legwear and

tripeptide that fights cellulite,

process. The special design of

these ingredients long lasting,

lingerie to bed linen and airline

offering a lipolytic effect and

Quiospheres endows them with

but the fabric has good wash

blankets.

a venotonic action. It activates

a high degree of affinity for the

resistance and the microcapsules

microcirculation, improves the

skin, which is vital for the effective

remain effective for 20 wash

marketing and application

skin’s complexion and also helps

transference of the ingredients

cycles. Garments incorporating

development at Clariant’s

to prevent cellulite formation.

— and thereby the promotion

Quiospheres may be tumbled

textile business unit — believes

Relistase is a novel peptide

of well-being and wellness.

and ironed at temperatures of

the technology represents a

that enhances skin elasticity

The second step is a proven

up to 70 °C, although sensitive

“major breakthrough in the

and tightness by inhibiting

gradual release and ‘transphere’

laundering is recommended

area of cosmetotextiles.”

excess elastase activity. By

of the cosmetic ingredients,

for finished garments to support

Drawing attention to what

stimulating collagen synthesis

facilitated by the reaction or

a long lasting effect of the

he termed the “tremendous

and enhancing tensile strength

activity of natural skin enzymes

microencapsulated cosmetic

expertise” of Lipotec in the

and elastic resistance, Relistase

with the microcapsule shell’s

ingredients. Roesch firmly believes

micro-encapsulation of luxury

helps to restore skin’s three-

components, thus allowing the

that this cosmetic release

cosmetics with proven benefits,

dimensional integrity. Clariant’s

ingredients to be delivered to the

mechanism will give brand

he branded Quiospheres a

new application technology

skin. Lipotec’s ingredients, such

owners the opportunity to create

“win-win development for

for the microcapsules is quality-

as peptides, are proven to be

“added value products based on

both textile manufacturers and

controlled and they are

biologically active and, among

state of the art technology and

brands” and emphasized the

distributed evenly across the

them, a series of new peptides

designed for modern lifestyles”

“almost limitless opportunities”

fabric. Moreover, the protected

have been tailor made with

that have the power to promote

for added value textile

microcapsules are unaffected

biomimetic criteria, emulating

enhanced levels of wellness and

products. There are currently

by the impact of handling,

the natural skin molecules and

well-being. PHM

two variants of the micro-

mechanical stress and high

improving its functionality. Once

encapsulation: Quiospheres

temperature throughout the

the garment or product is worn

moist, which boasts hydrating

textile production process.

and comes into contact with the

and moisturizing properties

Garments can be made,

skin, the release of the cosmetic

and delivers softness and

pressed, ironed and steamed at

ingredients begins; the longer

smoothness, and Quiospheres

temperatures of up to 120°C (for

they are worn, the more effective

slim, which may help to

up to 1 minute).

the delivery.

Rainer Roesch — head of

improve body shape, delivering elasticity and firmness.

The skin benefits from these advantages through a two

2012 January/February

The scientifically measured release of the ingredients

For more information

Dominik Schneider Media Relations Clariant Tel. +41 6146 953 62 dominiks.schneider@clariant.com www.clariant.com

5

NEWS

Good Things Come in Small Packages

New Sustainable Palm Oil Agreement

The Stephenson Group (www.stephensongroup.co.uk) have signed a groundbreaking deal with New Britain Oils Limited to become the UK’s first personal care product manufacturer to produce a soap base that not only includes RSPO-certified sustainable palm oil, but also meets the RSPO Supply Chain Certification requirements. The West Yorkshire-based company and New Britain Oils, which operates the world’s first dedicated sustainable palm oil refinery in Liverpool, confirmed the agreement on the eve of the 8th Annual Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (‘RSPO’) in Jakarta, Indonesia. To coincide with the new agreement, Stephenson Group showcased its segregated RSPO-certified sustainable palm oil personal care products — including its soap bases — at the international event, which took place from 8–11 November.

Stephenson Group’s speciality soap bases, which are exported worldwide, are used by its customers to create finished soap bars by adding fragrances, colours and additives.

Aside from producing 15,000 tonnes of soap bases a year, it is also the main UK supplier of bases to the US soap market, generating sales of $2 million a year. New Britain Oils is dedicated to changing the way in which palm oil is supplied to Europe’s food and personal care sectors. Its palm oil comes entirely from known certified sustainable plantation sources in Papua New Guinea, which include more than 7000 smallholders. Jamie Bentley, chief executive of Stephenson Group, commented: “As an ethical manufacturer committed to sustainability in the personal care market, this is a very proud moment. New Britain Oils has played a very important role in creating the route from sustainable farming to refining, which is a major step forward to encouraging greater use of certified sustainable palm oil in manufacturing.”

M&H, a premier supplier of plastic components, has recently announced the addition of a new 30 ml tubular to its portfolio of standard products.

This bottle is manufactured in PET, offering clear, glass-like clarity and good barrier properties. Its small size is perfect for sample packs, or as part of a hotel amenities range, and its stylish contemporary shape makes it versatile enough for a wide range of market sectors. Tubulars are one of the most popular bottle shapes and M&H has an extensive range available in PET and HDPE. With more than 1000 standard bottles, jars, flexible tubes and closures, M&H are almost certain to offer something that fits your requirements. If, however, the extensive range doesn’t include exactly the right design, the design team will be more than happy to create it for you using their custom service (www.mhplastics.com).

Dynamite for Hair

Croda recently unveiled a new innovative hair conditioning agent, KeraDyn HH. Proven to deliver “healthy hair dynamics” to damaged hair, it provides this sector of the personal care industry with a new, exciting marketing platform for the next generation of hair care products. The agent has been designed to boost the dynamics of damaged hair by enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair strands, thus promoting the freedom of movement that only healthy hair enjoys.

18 MEA (18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid) is the most abundant lipid found on the hair surface; this lipid layer can be depleted — through, for example, chemical treatments — and this contributes significantly to inter-fibre friction.

The multiple branched chain structure of Keradyn HH is designed to deliver a lubricating effect to the surface of the hair and the polyamine backbone provides multiple points of attachment to the hair, making it highly substantive and an effective agent for reducing inter-fibre friction. Hair types and hair treatment trends vary significantly around the world and, to demonstrate the efficacy of KeraDyn HH globally, the ingredient has been tested on hair from different regions, damaged by regionally relevant chemical treatments, including bleached European, chemically straightened Latin American and coloured Asian hair (www.croda.com).

Serious About Sunscreens

TRI-K Industries Inc recently launched its new line of inorganic sunscreens, TRIshield, at the California Supplier’s Day. TRIshield is a line of high quality micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide powders, which offer formulators the ability to create high SPF and broad spectrum sunscreen formulations and are available globally. The TRIshield line of titanium dioxide has a variety of coating technologies, allowing for superior performance and stability in a range of formulations, including natural claims. The zinc oxide line offers excellent transparency and has great compatibility with organic sunscreens for high SPF formulas. The company consider it to be an excellent addition to their current sun care portfolio, which includes the GalSORB line of organic sunscreens, multiple active ingredients and SPF boosters (www.tri-k.com).

A successful consumer health product requires ingredients with excellent scientific, marketing and regulatory back-up. Frutarom Health is a global supplier of a large range of health ingredients.

Please contact us when you need high quality ingredients with good support, such as formulations and custom-made solutions, or when you wish to differentiate yourself from the regular market offering.

Frutarom supports the European Health Claims Alliance.

Ingredients from ™

info@frutaromhealth.com Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. +41 44 782 64 64 switzerland@frutarom.com

6

Frutarom Belgium NV +32 52 319 534 belgium@frutarom.com

www.frutarom.com

Frutarom Germany GmbH +49 221 454 6230 germany@frutarom.com

Frutarom Ltd. Israel +972 4 846 2462 FandF@il.frutarom.com

Frutarom USA Incorporated +1 201 861 9500 info@us.frutarom.com

January/February 2012

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Industry Update

From Professional to Retail How trends in the professional sector are being translated into cosmetics.

W

hether it’s

containing formula — which is said

moisturizers being the preferred

by evolving ingredient formulations

because

to work by “reprogramming” hair

product. Kline’s data show that

or simply using the word in the

women

to inhibit its natural tendencies to

antiageing remains the number

product names to reinforce more

want to cut

frizz and curl. Another salon-inspired

one skin concern in the professional

powerful ingredients and strong

back on their

hair care range noted by Barbalova

skincare market, followed by

research backing. Examples include

cosmetics spending or that they

is Dove’s Nutri-Oil Care range,

hyperpigmentation. These trends

Dr Brandt, offering a professional

demand more professional results

launched globally at the end of 2011,

closely mirror consumer skincare

dermatologist alternative with its

from the products they use at

which boasts luxurious and intensive

concerns when purchasing

–Dr Brandt 2-step Laser

home, the spa and retail cosmetics

hair treatment formulations.

cosmetic skincare products in retail.

A-Peel System, and Clinique

sectors are moving closer together.

Skincare is the area in which the

Another trend is for at-home

Repairwear Laser Focus that

Imogen Matthews, consultant to

greatest synergies between salon

devices inspired by those found in

directly compares the product’s

in-cosmetics, analyses the trends

and retail can be seen. For some

the salon: “skincare/acne treatment/

benefits to those of professional

that have led to retail brands

years, skincare brands have been

hair removal professional-like

laser treatments in their

bringing out their own alternative

using technologies and ingredients

devices are set to drive this cross-

marketing campaign. “From

spa treatments.

designed to replicate the effects

border shift between the salon and

more mainstream ingredients

of Botox, dermal fillers and lasers

the home,” maintains Barbalova. A

such as hyaluronic acid, to

are looking to replicate salon/

on the skin. Independent skincare

recent example is LED Technologies’

rather unexpected ones such

spa experiences at home. Once

expert Wendy Lewis maintains

DPL (deep penetrating light) Light

as bee venom, as seen in the

they’ve experienced professional

that it is still a popular category in

Therapy System, which is FDA

latest Apinourish and Apiclear

treatments, they are bound to

skincare with continued new entries

approved to treat acne and help

lines launched by Holland &

want to keep up the good work

designed to mimic the effects of

to reverse the signs of ageing, such

Barrett, all antiageing brands

between visits — and those who

Botox, Azzalure and Bocouture as

as wrinkles. The products concept,

will look to incorporate Botox-

cannot afford salon treatments or

well as hyaluronic acid fillers. “These

and the justification of its $350 price

like alternatives in their future

are nervous about needles may

topicals complement injectable

tag, is that it can be used over and

offerings,” states Barbalova.

want their cosmetics to give similar

treatments done in a clinic and

over again. Wendy Lewis gives her

results. According to Irina Barbalova,

are also used as an alternative for

opinion: “There are many of these

work? Lewis is cautious in her

head of beauty and personal care

women who are not keen to have

systems on the market now, offering

support. “Nothing will completely

research, Euromonitor International,

anything medical or invasive done

mixed results. You have to use them

replace a facelift, but in an era

reduced spending outside the home

and/or are watching their beauty

constantly to see any improvement,

in which women are seeking

has opened up many opportunities

spend closely,” she points out. The

so compliance is a problem. It’s

out ways to avoid or delay

to develop solutions and recreate

ingredients used most often are

the same technology that doctors

surgery, we have better options

out-of-home experiences in the

hexapeptides such as argirilene,

use in their clinics post-treatment

available based on science and

home. She maintains this has

pentapeptides such as matrixyl,

to reduce redness and antiageing.

good clinical data. The extent

transpired across a number of

amino acids and DMAE. “They work

I have never been impressed with

to which these formulations are

categories, the more prominent

in different ways to injectable fillers

LED, but the more powerful devices

effective is relative to consumer

being in hair care. “A number of

and toxins, reducing wrinkles on the

used in doctors’ offices are larger, to

expectations … which are at an

brands are incorporating salon

skin rather than penetrating deeper

cover more area in one go. This one

all time high.” She warns: “If you

quality features in their marketing

into the skin’s layers,” she explains.

looks bigger than most others I have

expect to have an eye lift in a

seen, more like the professional

tube, you will be disappointed,

brands.”

no matter what you use.

It’s not surprising that women

and product benefits or developing

Meanwhile, plenty of consumers

But do these products actually

completely new concepts for the

are buying professional skincare

retail market,” she observes. UK

products from the salon to use at

salon brand, Charles Worthington,

home. According to Kline, global

treatments will continue to inspire

the skincare industry can not only

for example, has launched CW

sales of professional skincare

developments in topical skincare

meet your needs but exceed

Salon at home Straight & Smooth,

products have grown at a very

alternatives,” believes Barbalova,

them as new technology and

a semipermanent straightening

healthy 6% CAGR between 2005

who has seen a number of high

better delivery systems continue

treatment that claims to leave hair

and 2010. Take-home professional

tech skincare products attempting

to be launched with real

straighter and sleeker for up to 40

skincare (as opposed to back-bar)

to mimic the effects of professional

scientific data to back up the

days — owing to its cysteamine-

account for up to 80% of sales, with

laser treatments. They work either

claims being made.” PHM

8

“Surgical and non-invasive

However, if your goal is realistic,

January/February 2012

The extent to which these formulations are effective is relative to consumer expectations ... which are at an all time high

For more information

Imogen Matthews www.in-cosmetics.com

2012 January/February

9

Antiageing

The New Front Line in Antiageing

T

he epidermis

matrix.1 The replacement of

to induce the formation of hair

maintained as a monolayer

is a stratified

these senescent cells by new

follicles and to migrate into the

culture for several passages.

epithelium that, to

fibroblast cells can only be

inter-follicular dermis, where they

They then transferred into

maintain normal

triggered by dermal stem cells

proliferated and differentiated

hanging drops and formed 3D

barrier function, is

— treatments that reinforce

to fibroblast cells, which are able

spheres, thus demonstrating

constantly renewed throughout

the functional ability of dermal

to regenerate the extracellular

an important characteristic

life — a renewal that is

stem cells, therefore, have real

matrix (Figure 1) — for the first

of stem cells. In addition,

mediated by stem cells in the

antiageing potential.

time, the dermal papilla was

immunofluorescent labelling of

identified as a niche for dermal

whole mount spheres showed

stem cells. The door is now open

positive staining for Sox2, a

to the next generation of stem

proposed dermal stem cell

a hot topic in cosmetics and

The Dermal Papilla: A Niche for Dermal Stem Cells

cell cosmetics: the protection and

marker. When cells dissociated

in vitro test systems using

Compared with epidermal stem

vitalization of human dermal stem

from primary spheres were

epidermal stem cells have

cells, research on stem cells of the

cells for the restoration of skin

seeded back into classical

been established to facilitate

dermis is relatively young, with

firmness and wrinkle reduction.

cell culture dishes, numerous

claims for epidermal stem

the first reports about multipotent

cell actives. But what about

cells of the dermis appearing in

A New Assay

spontaneously formed (Figure 2).

the stem cells in the dermis?

2001.2 Experiments into the exact

Dermal stem cells were isolated

To evaluate ingredients for stem

Until now, they have not

localization of these multipotent

from the dermal papilla of

cell vitalization potential, the

been addressed by cosmetic

stem cells revealed that they are

excised human hair follicles and

intensity and uniformity of Sox2-

treatments despite playing a

always located near the hair

decisive role in skin ageing.

follicle, in the papilla and the

Fibroblasts, the prominent

perifollicular area. In late 2009,

cell type in the dermis, are

Biernaskie et al. showed that

responsible for the continuous

dermal papilla cells express the

production of collagen

stem cell marker gene Sox2 — a

and elastin; ageing skin is

transcription factor shown to

characterized by an increasing

be essential in maintaining the

number of senescent

pluripotent phenotype of stem

fibroblasts. These cells have

cells — and have a tendency

not only stopped producing

to grow in colonies in the form

collagen and elastin but even

of spheres.3 The Sox2-positive

start to break down the existing

cells were found to self-renew,

basal layer of the epidermis.

The protection or stimulation of these stem cells has become

10

secondary spheres were

Figure 1: The dermal papilla as a niche for dermal stem cells.

January/February 2012

But what about the stem cells in the dermis?

Until now, they have not been addressed by cosmetic treatments despite playing a decisive role in skin ageing labelling in primary spheres

found to stimulate the formation

and the number of secondary

of secondary spheres (Figure 3)

spheres formed were used as

— compared with the control

parameters. The assay was used

culture there was an increase

to screen for a dermal stem cell

of 89%. Overall, the results

ingredient and an extract of

prove the beneficial effect of

plant stem cells of the Argan

PhytoCellTec Argan on the stem

tree (PhytoCellTec Argan),

cell characteristics of the dermal

produced by the plant tissue

papilla cells. PHM

culture technique, was found to significantly stimulate the vitality of dermal stem cells.

Vitalization of Human Dermal Stem Cells Figure 2: Formation of primary and secondary spheres as test system for dermal stem cell actives.

Dermal papilla cells, isolated from excised human hair follicles, were cultured in the presence of 0.1% PhytoCellTec Argan and the primary spheres prepared for immunohistochemical analysis

References

1. J . Campisi, “The Role of Cellular Senescence in Skin Aging,” J Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc.

3(1), 1–5 (1998).

2. J.G Toma, et al., “Isolation of Multipotent Adult Stem Cells from the Dermis of Mammalian Skin,” Nat. Cell. Biol. 3(9), 778–784 (2001).

3. J. Biernaskie, et al., “SKPs Derive from Hair Follicle Precursors and Exhibit Properties of Adult Dermal Stem Cells,” Cell Stem Cell 5(6), 610–623 (2009).

of expression of the stem cell marker Sox2. Compared with control cultures, the immunofluorescence pictures clearly revealed an enhanced expression of Sox2 in spheres formed by dermal papilla cells cultured with PhytoCellTec Argan. Incubation with

Figure 3: Number of secondary spheres.

2012 January/February

PhytoCellTec Argan was also

For more information

Daniel Schmid Mibelle Biochemistry Bolimattstrasse 1 5033 Buchs, Switzerland daniel.schmid@mibelle.ch Tel. +41 6283 613 49 www.mibellebiochemistry.com

11

SKINCARE

Stem Cells Extracts in Topical SkinCare Applications

I

t doesn’t take an

skin stem cells to proliferate,

Human Cells

pool of these stem cells to help

investigative genius to

increasing cell turnover and

Human cells can be categorized

with self-repair and, according

notice that stem cells have

improving the health of the

into adult cells, also known as

to one theory of the ageing

surged in popularity as

skin, and second by directly

somatic cells, and stem cells.

process, this pool decreases as

ingredients in antiageing

stimulating skin cells to produce

Adult cells comprise the majority

we age.

skincare formulations. But what

more of the extracellular

of the body — from skin, fat and

are the different kinds and

matrix proteins that are vital to

bone to internal organs — and

sources of stem cells — and how

reducing wrinkles and improving

stem cells are the cells that

SkinCare Applications

are these differences reflected

skin firmness and elasticity. An

create these adult cells. There

Essentially, there are two separate

in their likely efficacy? First,

important thing to understand

are two main classes of human

and equally important issues to

however, a brief description

is that no cream contains live

stem cells: pluripotent and

be considered when formulating

of stem cells and the ageing

stem cells; rather stem cells are

multipotent. Pluripotent stem

any stem cell derived proteins

process: stem cells are a part

cultivated, processed and the

cells have the ability to become

into a viable skincare product.

of all living things — plants,

resulting extracts used as an

almost any cell in the body and

The first relates to the efficacy of

animals and humans — and

ingredient.

are derived from oocytes (eggs)

the proteins themselves, not only

or genetically reprogrammed

in their original environment, but

have the ability to divide continuously (scientifically known

Plant Stem Cells

adult cells. If the stem cells are

also when applied to the skin as a

as proliferation) and change to

The plant stem cells — also

derived from eggs, the eggs can

topical application. The second

become a particular cell type,

known as meristem cells — used

be fertilized — in which case

is whether the formulation can

such as a skin cell (scientifically

in cosmeceutical applications

the term embryonic stem cells

preserve the proteins in a stable

known as differentiation).

are most commonly derived

(ESC) is used — or unfertilized,

form in the cream and offer a

These two properties make the

from fruits or flowers, such

in which case we call them

reasonable shelf life. To create a

study of stem cells important

as apples, melons or roses.

parthenogenetic stem cells

genuinely effective product it is

for reasons that range from

Although such stem cells

(PSC). Pluripotent stem cells

critical that both these aspects

treating incurable diseases to

obviously have the potential

derived from cells that are in their

are addressed by any skincare

skin rejuvenation. Although there

to regenerate new parts of the

final form (so-called adult cells)

cream or serum.

is still much debate among the

whole organism (for example

are called induced pluripotent

scientific community as to the

a tree), they have very limited

stem cells (iPS). Multipotent stem

Efficacy

actual process of ageing, one

capacity for self-repair and the

cells, such as mesenchymal stem

Meristem cells are found at the

theory is that as we age the pool

actual concentration in the

cells, are stem cells with more

tips of roots and in the budding

of stem cells in our bodies gets

fruit or flower may be very low.

limited capabilities that can only

parts of plants; they are only

smaller and, correspondingly,

An advantage of plant stem

form different cell types within

present in very small quantities

our ability to heal ourselves or

cells is their ready availability

the same “germ layer” — that is

in the fruit or flower. A plant’s

simply replace damaged cells

and “organic” nature, however

to say, closely related cell types,

physiology is so completely

decreases. Adding stem cell-

the exact mechanism of how

such as hair and nail or bone and

different to a human’s that it

derived ingredients into skin care

these extracts or proteins

cartilage — and have a more

seems unlikely that, despite the

products is an attempt to slow or

derived from such stem cells

limited ability to proliferate. Most

various efficacy claims attributed

reverse this process in one of two

will interact with human skin is

tissue types, with the notable

to meristem cells, they can

ways: first by stimulating existing

scientifically unclear.

exception of the brain, keep a

interact with human cells in a

12

January/February 2012

therefore present a significant

can quickly lose their ability to

challenge in terms of formulating

affect the skin. Lifeline’s scientists

them into a cream.

have found a way to prevent

Lifeline Skin Care — a

these molecules breaking

important to look beyond the

subsidiary of International Stem

down and losing their potential,

hyperbole and consider the

Cell Corporation, a publicly

using liposomes created from

following three key factors:

meaningful way. Their role is very

traded biotechnology company,

phospholipid (fat) molecules.

1. T he source of the stem cell

different and the species gap

headquartered in California —

Such encapsulation technology

simply too large.

launched the first skincare brand

provides two benefits. First, it

A number of companies

extract — is it animal or plant?

2. I ts potency — are the stem cells

that uses pluripotent human

stabilizes the proteins and allows

pluripotent or multipotent?

use human stem cell extracts

stem cells as a source of these

them to be formulated into a skin

3. H ow is the extract stabilized in

derived from multipotent

messaging proteins. The company

care cream without losing their

stem cells or from adult cells,

is not rooted in the skincare

potency. Second, the liposomes,

If the questions raised cannot

usually taken from discarded

business, but focused on using

formed as they are by using

be adequately answered then

tissue such as foreskins and

pluripotent stem cells derived via

molecules similar to those already

the product is unlikely to be

abdominoplasties (tummy tucks

parthenogenesis (PSC) to study and

present in cell membranes, aid

effective. PHM

and so on). Multipotent stem

find cures for diseases, particularly

the absorption and delivery of

cells such as these have only

those of the brain, liver, pancreas

the messaging proteins to the

a limited ability to differentiate

and eyes.

epidermal layer of the skin.

mostly epidermal growth factors.

Protein Stability

marketing buzz surrounding

Although they are in principle

The second problem with stem

the use of stem cells in

useful, the concentration of these

cell extracts is that unless they

cosmeceuticals. When evaluating

ingredients can be very low and

are properly stabilized they

or purchasing such products, it is

and proliferate and contain

A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1

To conclude, there is much

07.09.2010

15:23 Uhr

Seite 3

the final product?

For more information

Dr Simon Craw COO Lifeline Skin Care, VP International Stem Cells info@lifelineskincare.com www.lifelineskincare.com

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com

Skincare

A Natural Balancing act

T

he ‘natural’

and an optimum pH is a keystone

skincare, but studies have shown

movement in

of its formulations, all of which are

that the body is better able to

cosmetics has

mildly acidic with a pH of 4.5–5

absorb and utilize extracts of

continued to increase

that reflects that of the skin’s outer

whole-food nutrients than

its hold over the hearts

layer. Maintaining this mild acidity

it is isolated components.

and minds of consumers — and the

optimizes the skin’s long-term

In addition, it should not

list of certifications and ‘free from’

health by promoting its natural

be forgotten that

assurances on packaging grows

protection against bacterial

repeated exposure

ever lengthier. Although both

growth and irritation, decreasing

to high doses of

consumers and critics like to see this

sensitivity and helping to remove

any one substance can

product positioning, alone it will not

debris. Mildly acidic skin is also

cause irritation and long-term

has ensured that they too can use

suffice: the natural movement must

better able to encourage new

damage. As such, extracts of

this range with confidence.

prove that it can perform in terms

skin cell growth, stimulate new

blackcurrant are selected to

of efficacy. Sophyto antiageing

collagen and remain tight, thick

obtain the powerful antioxidant,

associating the vivid colours

skincare believes it can deliver on

and firm. Without this balance,

vitamin C, not only owing to their

and fragrances of products

both fronts — certified as organic

the skin is more susceptible to

high concentration of the vitamin,

with synthetics, the sensory

by the UK Soil Association and the

the alkalizing effects of everyday

but the GLA (gamma linolenic

intensity of Sophyto’s products

American NSF/ANSI 305 through

pollution and microbes, which

acid, a rare omega-6 essential

are solely a result of the very

Quality Assurance International,

can cause damage and hasten

fatty acid) and potassium that

high concentrations of botanical

its range claims to be vegan, free

the visible signs of ageing. At pH 7

they contain. Working together

extracts and are actually an

from parabens, silicones, pthalates,

even water can compromise the

to support the skin’s friendly flora,

indication of their potency.

petrochemicals and all other

skin’s integrity, something that

helping to prevent acne and other

For example, the ‘Anti Aging

artificial fillers, binders, colours,

can be avoided by encouraging

imbalances, as well as promoting

Antioxidant Serum’ owes its amber

fragrances and preservatives. In

the use of a toner to remove

healthy collagen growth, it is the

colouring to high levels of green

addition, it is the first professional

cleanser, which ensures the skin

combined presence of these

tea, which must be present in

skincare line to achieve full

is prepared and ready to receive

bioactive ingredients — in a

concentrations high enough to

gluten-free certification. Their list

serums and moisturizers, thereby

bioavailable format — that makes

appear brown before it benefits

of ‘free froms’ might be long, but

improving their potency and, as a

them so effective.

the skin. The products also differ

it’s matched by the list of efficacy

consequence, their efficacy.

claims, which include preventing

The balancing act doesn’t

Used as consumers are to

The balance struck by Sophyto

from most on the market in their

is delicate enough to address all

thinner consistency, which, as a

the appearance of fine lines and

end there; packed with optimum

skin types and ages and products

result of the absence of artificial

wrinkles associated with premature

levels of naturally derived whole

adapt to suit the needs of an

fillers and binders, is a positive sign

ageing, stopping the build up of

food extracts, each product

individual’s skin. The belief that

for those seeking an all-natural

the P. acnes bacteria associated

mirrors a well balanced diet and

anything that is applied to the

skin solution. A lack of silicones

with acne and being suitable for

provides a synergy of vitamins,

body may easily end up within

and dimethicone prevents the

minerals, essential fatty acids,

it has driven the exclusion of

formation of an occlusive barrier

antioxidants and amino acids.

all known allergens, including

on top of the skin and allows the

Crucially, unlike synthetic

essential oils. The brand’s bid to

serums and moisturizers to deliver

than the purity, of its

equivalents, these natural

appeal to all consumers, even

their ingredients directly to the

products that Sophyto

substances are recognized by

the most sensitive, recently led

skin to be utilized. Here, efficacy

believes sets them

the body and able to operate

to its achieving gluten-free

and marketing strategy combine;

apart from other

in harmony with it to optimize

certification. In addition to being

consumers may be assured that

natural brands.

the skin’s natural metabolism.

easily ingested orally, gluten-

every single ingredient actively

Instead of simply masking a

containing products can be

works to improve skin health — no

company, it’s all

problem, they support the

absorbed into the bloodstream

cheap fillers padding out the

about balance

skin’s natural functions and

either through cutaneous lesions

formulation can translate into a

encourage its innate ability to

or wherever the skin’s acid mantle

‘value for money’ message. PHM

all skin types, even the most sensitive. Importantly, it is the efficacy, rather

For this

heal the root cause.

Individual micronutrients — in particular vitamins

is disturbed. Some coeliacs,

For more information

however, cannot tolerate any topical application of gluten

A, C and E, coenzyme

and experience symptoms of

Q10, and unspecified

inflammation, including itching,

‘peptides’ — have all

redness, rashes and dryness upon

become buzzwords in

contact with the allergen. Sophyto

Karen Sinclair Drake Strategic Development, R&D karen@sophyto.com www.sophyto.com

January/February 2012

Sun Care

AakoSun UV-filter range THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION ORGANIC UV-FILTERS Avobenzone (BMDBM) Benzophenone 3 & 4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Octyl Methoxycinnamate AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALS C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide

www.aako.nl

Aako was205 founded in AE 1945 and established Much | importance is attached to the need P.O. Box | 3830 Leusden | The Netherlands +31 (0)33 494 84 94 itself as a distributor for speciality

for proper protection against sunlight

Middle East. Trough consistent investment

requirements on suntan lotion products.

chemicals in Europe, North Africa and

in its employees during these 65 years it

has become synonymous with the phrase

and European regulations impose strict

Our UV-filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture

Sun Care

“chemistry with people”

Aako is currently active in the following

of safe suntan lotions for consumers.

Our expertise and customer-orientated

services in sales and marketing, logistics, AakoSun UV-filter range

markets: detergents, cosmetics (sun

care, hair care, personal care), industrial

product development, regulatory affairs THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION

and home care, coating specialties, crop

and finance hasORGANIC helped to secure longUV-FILTERS

and fragrances.

suppliers and customers.

Benzophenone

protection, pharma, industrial chemicals

We would like to distinguish ourselves as a

distributor of UV-filters by offering suntan lotion manufacturers in Europe the best

price to quality ratio and a guaranteed and AUXILIARY stable delivery and service.

term close co-operations with(BMDBM) many global Avobenzone

3&4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Aako offers specialized expertise Octyl Methoxycinnamate in meeting customer demands: our

“chemistry with people” values mean that

we offer much more than the chemical for RAW MATERIALS — or even for the future!

C12-C15 Alkylnow Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide for further information Please feel free to contact us by phone or by email on suncare@aako.nl

www.aako.nl

P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94

SKINCARE

Fast Relief for Sensitive Skin

A common affliction that is spread across the global population, many suffer from sensitive skin and its unpleasant sensory implications — and it has a major impact on their quality of life. In Europe, the US and Japan, some 50% of women and 30% of men claim to be affected and approximately 36% of Chinese people complain about sensitive skin. Surprisingly, and despite these figures, the condition has yet to be satisfactorily addressed by active cosmetic ingredients.

Sensitive Skin: What Is It?

receptor potential vanilloid

stressors. Clinical studies have

a deeper level: first, they describe

1 (TRPV1), situated principally

shown that SymSitive 1609 has a

Sensitive skin should not be

sensitive skin as being associated

on the skin’s nerve cells and on

major impact on the unpleasant

regarded as a disease in the

with an over-activation of the

keratinocytes. Among other

sensory symptoms of sensitive skin

way of allergic hyper-reactions

skin’s sensory fibres, in which

things, they are activated by heat

(Figures 1 and 2).

or neurodermatitis — instead, its

the transient receptor potential

or capsaicin, the natural pungent

sensory symptoms are caused

vanilloid 1 (TRPV1), located on

ingredient in pepper, and trigger

by an enhanced sensitivity of

the nerve fibres, plays a major

an increased flow of calcium

Proven Benefits on Skin: In Vivo Data

the skin’s nerves. Environmental

role. Second, they characterize

through the heat receptors.

To verify the efficacy of SymSitive

factors such as heat, cold or wind,

sensitive skin by its disturbed

in addition to certain cosmetic

skin permeability: the barrier

Efficacy on Skin

vivo studies with 30 volunteers

ingredients, alcohol consumption

function is impaired, causing the

To address the as yet unmet

who had a proven sensitivity to

and stress, can trigger it. Put

skin to be more vulnerable. The

consumer need for ingredients

capsaicin. During the test, two

simply, the subject of sensitive skin

consequences are enhanced

that soothe sensitive skin

o/w emulsions were applied

can be considered from three

activation of sensory receptors

symptoms, Symrise has

to the nasolabial fold, one

angles: that of the consumer, the

and reduced protection against

developed the new cosmetic

with capsaicin and another

dermatologist and the biologist.

irritants or toxic agents, in addition

ingredient: SymSitive 1609. The

with capsaicin and 0.4% of

to accelerated dehydration.

clear solution consists of trans-

4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, the

4-tert-Butyl-1-cyclohexanol in

cosmetic active ingredient in

Its impact on their quality of life causes consumers to regard

Biologists examine the issue on

Calcium is known to play a vital

1609, Symrise performed two in

sensitive skin as one of the

role in balancing skin functions

pentylene glycol and offers

SymSitive 1609. After 3 minutes,

most common disturbing skin

and recent dermatological

tangible formulation benefits. It

the perception of stinging,

conditions; according to them,

research has demonstrated

is easy to formulate, soluble in

burning, tingling, itching, tickling

their skin reacts far more sensitively

that sensitive skin suffers from

oil, colourless and significantly

and tightness was evaluated on

to cosmetic products and/or

an imbalance in its levels of this

attenuates skin irritations

a scale of 0 (no perception) to

environmental factors than that of

mineral. This imbalance — which

such as redness and itchiness,

4 (strong perception). Statistical

people with normal skin. It should

leads to redness and a burning

providing instant comfort. The

analysis was undertaken using

be noted, however, that they are

sensation — is caused by an

product soothes and protects

the Wilcoxon matched pairs test.

describing physiological reactions

over-activation of heat receptors,

the skin against future irritations

rather than a disease.

scientifically named transient

and makes it more resistant to

The test proved to be successful: depending on the dosage

For dermatologists, sensitive skin is a condition defined by two major factors: sensation and symptoms. It is connected with sensory attributes such as tightness, stinging, prickling, burning, tingling, pain and, less frequently, itching — mainly in the face — which manifests itself in erythema or flushed, red skin. Although the degree of skin sensitivity varies between individuals, hyper-reactive skin responds with exaggerated sensorial activity to environmental or topical factors, including hard water and cosmetics.

Figure 1: Clinical study into the effect of 0.4% of the SymSitive 1609 active ingredient.

16

Figure 2: SymSitives 1609’s soothing effect on the scalp.

January/February 2012

and parameter measured,

The test revealed that SymSitive

Conclusion

SymSitive 1609 reduced the in vivo

1609 delivers a significant soothing

SymSitive 1609 belongs to a

perception of capsaicin-induced

effect after a single application

new generation of fast-acting

stinging, burning and tingling by

compared with a placebo

ingredients for the intense relief

up to 4.5 fold, compared with

(p<0.01) (Figure 3). An impressive

of sensitive skin and scalp. It

a placebo, with high statistical

74% of the test subjects did not

minimizes discomfort and irritation

significance. The sensations

report any discomfort during the

and optimizes cutaneous self-

were reduced below the sensory

hair coloration and 93% stated

protection and regulation, calming

threshold level immediately after

that they would like the hairdresser

over-reactions of the skin and

applying emulsions containing

to use the product again when

scalp and reducing the symptoms

SymSitive 1609.

dying their hair. The hairdresser

of sensitive reactions. PHM

For more information

VĂŠronique Maurin Symrise Tel. +33 154 627 87 veronique.maurin@symrise.com www.symrise.com

was impressed with the soothing

Proven Benifits on the Scalp

effect of SymSitive 1609 during the

SymSitive 1609 is also effective

the fact that it did not alter the

against stinging and burning

expected shade.

hair colouration and appreciated

sensations on the scalp induced by hair colouration, as verified by Symrise in an in vivo study carried out with the help of a hairdresser, who tested the ingredient on 15 subjects with scalps sensitive to colouration.

Two solutions of an ammoniafree hair dye available on the market, one containing 3% of SymSitive and the other left unchanged, were applied to different sides of the head. To evaluate the preventive and soothing effects of the solutions, the participants completed a questionnaire and detailed their subjective impression of the efficacy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; this was then supplemented with the separate evaluation and the opinion of the hairdresser.

SymSitive 1609 (3%) Placebo

Soothing effect appeared immediately

Soothing effect appeared after a few minutes

Soothing effect was delayed

Figure 3: In vivo study carried out by a hairdresser.

2012 January/February

17

Sustainable Initiatives

In the wake of their Centella asiatica extract receiving Ecocert validation, Pure Health Magazine spoke with Indena’s head of personal care development, Stefano Togni, to discuss their reaction to the certification and the new sustainable landscape of the cosmetic industry.

PHM: Tell us about your Centella

ST: A significant one! The ever-

conditions to sustain themselves

programmes throughout recent

asiatica purified dry extract; what

increasing importance of

and their environment this can

years, which included supporting

are its benefits?

sustainable innovation in the

not only be preserved, but

“Non-Detriment Findings for Prunus

ST: There are several important

industry demands a means

actually evolve.

Africana Kalkman in Cameroon”

benefits related to this novel

of independent validation.

extract. Unlike other Centella

Certifications of the kind offered

PHM: How does Indena support

between the International Tropical

asiatica extracts, it adds the

by Ecocert provide the final

sustainable technologies with

Timber Organisation (ITTO) and the

polyphenolic fraction to the

consumer with a guarantee

social responsibility?

Convention on International Trade

standard centella triterpenes

of correct processing and an

ST: As our main resource, we

of Endangered Species of Wild

extracts and thus better

adherence to environmentally

have always had an interest

Fauna and Flora (CITES), it was set

“reproduces” the whole

friendly extraction techniques.

in preserving vegetal biomass

up to undertake a thorough and

and guaranteeing its continuing

ongoing monitoring of the status

phytochemical profile of the

project. The fruit of a collaboration

leaves. In other words, all the

PHM: Can the need for

availability. Indena has been

of the species in Cameroon in

beneficial molecules contained

sustainability positively affect

part of the Responsible Care

addition to collecting data on the

in Centella asiatica — both

innovation?

programme, a global voluntary

biology, availability, management,

the terpenic and polyphonic

ST: Yes, definitely, particularly if

initiative promoted by the

use and trade of products

fractions — are preserved in

sustainability is taken seriously

chemical industry, since 2005.

derived from the Prunus. Over

this extract. Benefits offered

and properly managed. The

Under this scheme, companies

and above this, the company

include an increase of collagen

fact that it is such a hot topic

collaborate to improve their

recently sponsored and supported

synthesis, plus other antiageing

reflects the remarkable level of

health, safety and environmental

the building of an orphanage

and DNA protection properties.

interest from both industry and

performance through their

in Tamil Nadu, alongside other

In addition, solvents used in the

consumers, ensuring that it goes

national associations. This

social initiatives in Madagascar,

process (ethanol and water)

beyond the remit of market

commitment to the environment

such as “Add a Seat to the Table,”

are food grade, making the

trend and is accompanied by

was recently formalized when

an annual event organized by

extract suitable for use in dietary

real commitment. If we deplete

our main production site was

Indena’s volunteers to fight famine,

supplements to address the

both environmental and social

awarded ISO14001 certification.

promote scholarship and support

‘beauty from within’ concept.

resources we will have far less

This serves as a guarantee that

the community in Fianarantsoa.

scope and potential for innovation

the company has an adequate

Furthermore, we have recently

PHM: What does the Ecocert

in the future. Rather than being

management system for the

selected several industry

validation mean to Indena?

a burden on the industry, a

control of our environmental

organizations that are seriously

ST: The company possesses

sustainable approach is crucial

impact and to continually improve

committed to sustainability and

other ingredients that bear

to protect its future; resources

the environmental performance

who we will join in the coming

the Ecocert validation — this

must be safeguarded for the

of our activities in a systematic,

year to openly discuss and assist

addition not only recognizes our

use of the next generation of

effective and sustainable way.

in further implementing guidelines

efforts to develop sustainable

innovators. A wider perspective of

technologies but allows us to

things must be taken, preserving

the GACP (Good Agricultural and

expand our range of offerings in

biodiversity and sustaining local

Collection Practices) — guidelines

this area.

communities, which coexist with

developed for quality and safety

We have long been applying

the environment and typically

that include environmental

PHM: What impact does this

pass on traditional knowledge that

issues — and have also

kind of certification have on the

has been gained over centuries. If

implemented additional social

industry?

local populations are granted the

and environmental sustainability

18

on sustainability. PHM

For more information Giusi Losi Marketing Department INDENA S.p.A Tel. +39 257 496 298

January/February 2012

Marine biotechnology for sustainable cosmetics

2012 January/February

19

Sustainable Initiatives

Biotechnology and Sustainability Unite for Cosmetic Results To say that new proposals and ideas are necessary to drive innovation and surprise consumers is to state the obvious somewhat. It is also important, however, to develop new and original ideas for existing — and perhaps well known — products. It is here that biotechnology can play a vital role, making it possible to obtain new molecules from natural origins and apply them to numerous fields;

U

including medicine, agriculture, the food industry and environmental management, to name but a few. nderstood as the use

themselves and stay alive, these

triggered a growing interest

of microorganisms

natural sources and molecules

organisms must create physical

in finding new EPS-producing

or biological

for cosmetic ingredients makes

and biochemical defences

microorganisms and isolating their

substances to

biotechnology a highly useful

against the environment;

polysaccharides. This has in turn

perform specific

tool. Indeed, it allowed Lipotec to

novel biotechnological active

led to the increasing popularity of

industrial processes, biotechnology

develop sustainable, innovative,

ingredients that harness these

marine ingredients, particularly as

has been used for many years

naturally-sourced active ingredients

survival mechanisms may be of

novel sources of EPSs.1

to obtain some of the most

by taking advantage of nature

great interest and benefit to the

popular and well known products.

while preserving the environment.

cosmetic industry.

antibiotics, synthetic hormones

A Marine Approach

brand of novel biomolecules,

exopolysaccharide obtained

and even vaccines result from the

Organisms that inhabit a

capitalizes on these unique

through biotechnology by

application of biotechnology to

complex ecosystem develop

characteristics. It is possible

the fermentation of a marine

different fields and disciplines. This

unique chemical structures and

to achieve the sustainable

bacterial strain of the genus

technology is now being employed

bioactivities — and the sea is a

production of cosmetically

Pseudoalteromonas sp. This

by dynamic cosmetic companies

perfect example of just such an

efficacious bioactive ingredients

bacterium was collected from a

that refuse to be left behind and

ecosystem. The ocean, which

from natural agents using

colony of mussels in an intertidal

wish to obtain effective and

constitutes the highest percentage

biotechnology — and to

area in the Douarnenez bay in

sustainable active ingredients —

of living biosphere and 70% of the

safeguard biodiversity.

Brittany, where high tides cover

and its advantages include the

Earth’s surface, is a vast source of

potential of finding molecules that,

biodiversity. It is the habitat of a

themselves from surrounding

tides gradually expose them to

owing to technical or economic

wide range of organisms, which

unpropitious conditions causes

desiccation and other drastic

restrictions, could be impossible to

must develop special mechanisms

microorganisms inhabiting

environmental changes. As a

gain through chemical reactions.

to bear its conditions: marine

intertidal zones to develop

result of these stressing factors, the

In fact, the use of science and

microorganisms live in complex

specific physiological and

microorganisms of these mussels

engineering in the manufacturing

ecosystems that can be exposed to

biochemical characteristics.

develop protective systems,

processes helps to achieve an

high levels of salinity, temperature

These special features can lead

in which exopolysaccharides

optimal bioprocess performance,

and pressure gradients, toxic

to the production of different

probably play a key role. As a

which bodes well for the adequate

elements and, oxidative conditions,

chemical structures and several

special cosmetic ingredient born

growth and maximum productivity

amongst others, which represent

bioactivities, including unique

from marine biotechnology,

of microorganisms.

a survival challenge. To protect

EPS. The interesting properties

Hyadisine can play an effective role

that they have been found to

in formulations with instant wrinkle

offer the cosmetic industry have

reduction activity. Furthermore,

The growing demand for new

Cheese, wine, yoghurt, beer,

Biointec, Lipotec’s product

Figure 1: Average values of in vivo hydration improvements after 7 and 24 hours of the first application of the creams.

20

As part of this project, Lipotec has recently revealed its active

The necessity of protecting

ingredient Hyadisine, an

the mussels in water and low

Figure 2: Hydration improvement variations (%) with respect to the values at the beginning of the in vivo treatment.

January/February 2012

Figure 3: Maximum roughness reduction variations (%) with respect to the values at the beginning of the in vivo treatment.

the right side of the face and a

natural substrate for skin cells).

placebo on left side twice a day

Moreover, a wound healing in

for 20 days. Skin hydration and

vitro assay was performed by

roughness variations after single

inducing a linear wound on a

and repeated applications of

culture of HEK (human embryonic

the cream were then studied;

kidney) differentiated cells,

measures of skin moisturization

which was monitored for 7 days

were performed using a

in the absence of FCS (Fetal Calf

Corneometer CM 825 and skin

Serum). Antarcticine accelerated

imprints were analysed with

the wound healing process,

designed image processing

dermal fibroblast adhesion and

software (Quantilines, Monaderm).

epidermal keratinocytes growth,

Hyadisine was found to instantly

thus confirming that it is an

improve the appearance of

essential ingredient for achieving

wrinkles and provided immediate

skin regenerative effects.

hydration to the skin, presenting

In addition, Antarcticine also

a long-lasting moisturizing effect.

possesses excellent anti-wrinkle

Additionally, it also demonstrated

efficacy. An in vivo test was

this effect in in vivo tests.

performed in which a cream

Antarcticine was studied for

containing the active ingredient

its cryoprotective activity by

was applied twice daily for 30

monitoring the fluorescence

days around the eyes of healthy

release of the self-quenching

volunteers with crow’s feet. Silicon

carboxyfluorescein that is

imprints were obtained before and

contained in liposomes submitted

after the treatment period before

to freezing and defrosting cycles.

being analysed by confocal laser

During frosting, intracellular water

scanning microscopy.

molecules form crystals that

Figure 4: Skin topography images before (left) and after a 30 day treatment with a cream containing 5% Antarcticine (right).

can damage or break cellular

Conclusions

membranes — cryoprotecting

Biotechnology offers a novel

products can modify the crystal

means of harnessing the power

morphology or even avoid

of biodiversity for cosmetic

their formation, thus preventing

purposes — it has allowed

damage to the lipidic bilayers.

Lipotec to develop sustainable

The study results indicated

innovative active ingredients

that Antarcticine has a high

from natural sources, including

cryoprotective effect on the

those of marine origin. The major

bilayers and prevents them from

aim is to apply biotechnological

sustaining damage or breaking.

techniques to obtain non-

owing to its immediate and long-

Efficacy Evaluation

lasting moisturizing effect, it is also

Hyadisine was postulated as

suitable for products in which a

having similar cosmetic properties

quick and durable moisturizing

to hyaluronic acid (HA) as a result

induction was evaluated by an

through sustainable processes

increase is required.

of the two being rich in the same

ELISA assay on human dermal

that work to preserve the

monosaccharide — glucuronic

fibroblasts (HDF). Absorbance

environment, without harvesting

biotechnological strategy is the well

acid — and to support this

readings were processed, type

or extractions. PHM

known glycoprotein Antarcticine,

hypothesis in vitro and in vivo

I collagen concentrations were

which has been a key ingredient

tests were performed on the

measured and the percentage

for Lipotec since its pioneering

exopolysaccharide. Its water

of induction was calculated.

launch. At the beginning of 1988,

retention profile in relation to HA

Antarcticine showed excellent

a scientific expedition collected a

was determined by the Dynamic

skin restructuring properties

bacterial strain from sludge samples

Vapour Sorption technique — a

owing to its dermal proteins,

from several Antarctic glaciers, from

gravimetric method that measures

which boost, among others,

which they were able to isolate five

the velocity and quantity of solvent

type I collagen — crucial for

different strains of aerobic bacteria.

absorbed by a sample. Hyadisine

maintaining skin structure.

Consequently, the bacterial strain

presented a better DVS profile than

Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica

HA and was shown to retain more

observed in HDF grown on

NF3 was isolated from the samples

hydration — and at a faster rate —

coated Antarcticine cultures by

collected from the bottom of

which suggested a hyaluronic-like

the CVDE method. The adhesion

a glacier in the region of Inlet

moisturizing behaviour.

increase was much higher than

Another example of this

Admiralty Bay. During cell growth,

Two panels of volunteers

The ingredient’s collagen

References

1. C. Zhenming, et al., “Exopolysaccharides From Marine Bacteria,” J. Ocean Univ. China 4(1): 67–74 (2005).

2. S. Shingo, et al., “Hyaluronan Exists in the Normal Stratum Corneum,” J. Invest. Dermatol. 114 1184–1187 (2000).

Significant bioadhesion was

that observed with the positive

this strain produced the glycoprotein

applied a cream containing the

control; a type I collagen coating

exopolymer Antarcticine.

new biotechnical ingredient on

at the same concentration (a

2012 January/February

genetically modified ingredients

For more information Raquel Merino Media Relations Lipotec rmerino@lipotec.com www.lipotec.com

21

Nutricosmetics

It Starts with a Sip…

This year will see the rise of a new antiageing beverage that is set to become a key player in the beauty market and change the traditional beauty regime for good: Minerva Research Labs has launched Pure Gold Collagen, a collagen-based skincare drink that manages to be both tasty and effectual. Offering a natural antiageing solution and claiming to promote beautiful skin, it’s not surprising that the product has attracted

T

the attention of consumers and industry alike. he beverage aims

drinking collagen can re-activate

land of the rising sun and other

giant Shiseido has launched

to promote younger

collagen in the skin and fight the

developed nations in the Far East.

its own drink, “The Collagen”.

looking skin, improve

ageing process. The next chapter

Before the rise in popularity

skin hydration

in the story of the beauty industry

of nutricosmetics, the necessity

however, the collagen concept

and reduce the

is being written.

of health and yearning for

has taken a comparatively long

beauty led to the recognition of

time to catch on and is generally

appearance of deep wrinkles

In developed Western nations,

through its formula of hydrolysed

A Brief History

collagen’s benefits. In Japan it is

limited to unappetising collagen

collagen, borage oil, hyaluronic

Collagen has been recognized

a key essential or super ingredient

powders that must be mixed with

acid and vitamins. Affecting

as beneficial to human health

in a variety of top notch and

water or juice and can have a

the skin’s appearance from

for centuries. In traditional

expensive antiageing skin care

rather unpleasant taste.

within, it counteracts the ageing

Asian cultures it has long been

ranges. It has even made its way

process where it begins. The

acknowledged as a cosmetic

to Japanese restaurants, in which

The Skin

oral consumption of collagen

product that helps to prevent skin

beauty conscious women enjoy

The skin is the largest organ of

bypasses the skin, which often

ageing — indeed, the collagen

collagen-rich food. Although only

the human body — it acts as

acts as a barrier to creams —

craze can be traced to the

available in Japan, even cosmetic

the main barrier to the external environment and is composed of multiple layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous tissue. The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin and is itself divided into several layers, with the stratum corneum — which is extremely difficult to penetrate and thus the first barrier to external elements — being on the outermost part. Deeper down is the dermis, rich in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which contribute to the structure, elasticity and hydration of the skin. The ability of biological particles to reach the dermis of the skin through the epidermis is, however, limited. The deepest layer of the skin, the subcutaneous tissue, is composed primarily of fat.

Why Collagen?

Collagen comprises the main structural element of the skin and its super family contains approximately 28 different proteins, which account for 30%

Figure 1: Decrease of collagen with age.

22

of the total protein mass of the

January/February 2012

Pure Health Magazine spoke with Tony Sanguinetti, MD and founder of Minerva Research Labs, to learn more about the man, the product and the market.

PHM: What was your background in the beauty industry before the founding of Minerva?

TS: I was lucky to work in the fashion business in the midst of the 80’s and early 90’s. I was involved in fashion shows and had the chance to work as photographer with the most beautiful models in Milan, Paris and New York. This was a time of great

Figure 2: Increase in skin hydration associated with consumption of hydrolysed collagen.

fervour and growth: several top designers made the leap to becoming global brands. Working as a photographer I learned how to portray beauty and, more importantly, how to represent it with style, femininity and to some degree sensuality — harmony and balance between light, shadow, body posture and facial expression were the essence of each picture. There was something magical — something divine — about beauty.

Eventually I moved away from the industry but have maintained a deep admiration for natural beauty, in addition to femininity.

PHM: What inspired you to produce Gold Collagen — did you have any guidance or support from anyone?

TS: I’m still convinced that beauty is about harmony, confidence, character, posture and expression. I truly feel that beauty is not about heavy makeup or cosmetic surgery, but strongly believe it to

Figure 3: The decrease in the formation of deep wrinkles that is associated with consumption of hydrolysed collagen.

be about health. I have nothing against ageing per se; however, our current lifestyle is full of stress, tension at work, an increasingly

human body. Collagen protein

be identified. Intrinsic ageing is

competitive environment and less security, all of which contribute

consists of three polypeptide

mainly caused by the passage of

to accelerating the ageing process. This is particularly visible on the

chains (each of approximately

time, whereas extrinsic ageing is

skin where deep wrinkles, reduced colouring and skin brightness

1000 Amino Acids), named

primarily a result of sun exposure

betray age.

a-chains, which form a triple

— also known as photo-ageing.

During a business trip to Japan I was exposed to a new trend:

helix — multiple triple helices

Although a result of different

collagen drinks and treatments. More importantly, I was fascinated

form a collagen fibril. The unique

mechanisms, both cases include

by the Japanese approach to beauty as a natural characteristic

physical properties of collagen

a decrease of the skin’s collagen

to be developed from within and discovered that their beauty

fibres confer structural integrity

levels, which causes the skin

philosophy is all about harmony. I was so captured and inspired by

to the skin, forming a dense

to lose its normal structure and

this that I left my corporate job to start Minerva with my Japanese

network throughout the dermis.

wrinkles to form (Figure 1).

friend and co-founder, Akio Shindate. We collected a team of scientific researchers in Japan and a team of creative designers

Normal collagen formation is

in the UK. Our mission became to create something that would

body, including bones, cartilage,

Hydrolysed Collagen to Prevent the Ageing Process

gums, tendons and blood

Replenishing collagen in the dermis

vessels. The collagen in the skin is

is the key to healthy and youthful

mainly produced by fibroblasts

skin. Many topically applied

TS: We were looking for something engaging, memorable and easy

— cells that are present in the

commercial products containing

to associate with the product. We realized that most women would

dermis and also responsible for

collagen, for example creams and

immediately recognize collagen as an important element of beauty.

the production of elastin and

serums, claim the ability to act

We worked very hard on the packaging and decided to make it

hyaluronic acid. Fibroblasts are

on the dermis, where they would

unique by developing the logo in the style of Japanese writing, on

sensitive to physical and chemical

induce an increase in collagen

a vertical line. We then characterized the “collagen” as “gold” to

stimuli, which can induce both

levels. However, the fact that

emphasize its value.

their activation and proliferation.

collagen is a large molecule (300

also required for the structure of many other tissues in the

kDa) and cannot penetrate the

How Ageing Effects Skin In time, skin structure and

change the face of beauty.

PHM: Tell us a little about Gold Collagen — what is the origin of the product name?

PHM: What is Gold Collagen’s target market?

epidermis limits its effects on the

TS: Anyone above the age of 25 who cares about the health of

skin surface.

their skin and does not want make-up and cosmetic surgery to

It is, however, possible to

be the only available options for improving their appearance.

elasticity decrease as a result

reach the dermis by acting

We target individuals who understand that “we are what we

of the ageing process. Two

from within and the oral intake

eat” or who wish to complement their diet. Our target consumer

different mechanisms of ageing

of hydrolysed collagen thus

is interested having more elastic, firmer, more hydrated —

— intrinsic and extrinsic — can

represents an effective solution to

essentially younger looking — skin.

2012 January/February

23

Nutricosmetics

PHM: How would you recommend Pure Gold Collagen to your target

formula that has been specifically

cellular function; borage oil is rich

market?

developed to offer a unique

in gamma-linolenic acids (GLAs)

TS: A great deal of research has gone into Gold Collagen’s unique

blend of collagen and active

with omega-6 essential fatty

formulation, which is a powerful blend of active ingredients formulated

ingredients for high absorption

acids to improve skin hydration.

for maximum absorption and bioavailability. These elements are

and bioavailability. Designed to

In terms of vitamins, vitamin C

clinically proven to provide significant benefits to the skin and, more

target the deeper layer of the

contributes to normal collagen

specifically, the deeper layer of skin — the dermis. Gold Collagen’s

skin — the dermis — it addresses

formation and skin function,

special formulation and delivery mechanism activates the formation

the root of the ageing process to

vitamin E impacts the protection

of collagen in the dermis, thus strengthening the skin structure and

obtain the highest efficacy of its

of cell constituents from oxidative

increasing elasticity and smoothness. The beauty drink endows the

key ingredients.

damage and, finally, vitamin B6

skin with a healthy glow in addition to benefiting hair and nails. To

The product contains a blend

promotes normal energy yielding

conclude, much time, effort and expertise have been employed to

of the best quality hydrolysed

metabolism and a reduction in

make the product a tasty yet effective supplement for the daily diet.

collagen extracted from

tiredness and fatigue.

fish, which is rich in specific PHM: What do you think is the future for collagen drinks — will they

amino acids: glycine, proline

Clinical Studies

become as ubiquitous as moisturizers?

and hydroxyproline. When

Clinical studies have confirmed

TS: It has been proven that the oral intake of certain types of collagen

administered orally, hydrolysed

the efficacy of hydrolysed

can benefit our health; collagen is a key component of the skin,

collagen is digested in the small

collagen. A double-blind,

joints, tendons, blood vessels and bones. We use the highest quality

intestine to form dipeptides and

randomized, placebo-controlled

collagen in our product — it is 100% natural, extracted from fish and

tripeptides, or free amino acids.

clinical trial carried out in Japan

we have full knowledge of its origins. High availability of such collagen

Clinical and in vivo studies have

on 33 women aged from 40–59

in the diet can bring significant advantages and, as a result, I expect

shown these peptides to possess

with normal to dry skin, showed

its consumption to grow considerably, reaching levels similar to those

high biological activity and to be

a 28% increase in skin hydration

of certain other natural products or functional drinks that have an

easily absorbed across the small

associated with comsuming 10 g

established role in our diets.

intestine membrane, where they

of Hydrolysed Collagen Peptan

enter the blood stream. Collagen

per day, for 8 weeks (Figure 2).

PHM: What do you forecast for Gold Collagen in the future?

peptides are then distributed in

TS: I predict that Gold Collagen will become a key component of

blood vessels through the human

blind, randomized, placebo-

many women’s beauty regimes. It delivers a new level of innovation

body — in particular in the dermis

controlled clinical trial carried out

to a very large and crowded market across both the cosmetic and

of the skin, where it has been

in France on 47 women aged from

nutraceutical industries. I believe that the customer is ready for this

proven to remain for up to 14 days.

35–55 years with normal to dry

In addition, another double-

skin, revealed that consumption

new concept and will cause its star to ascend.

The Mechanism of Action

of 10 g of hydrolysed collagen

Once in the skin, Pure Gold

associated with a 30% decrease

Collagen acts with a dual

in the formation of deep wrinkles

mechanism. First, collagen

(Figure 3).

peptan per day for 12 weeks was

peptides stimulate the activity

More than simply a new

and proliferation of fibroblasts,

product, Pure Gold Collagen is the

which are in turn responsible

start of a new market trend that

for the production of collagen,

is characterized by a consumer

elastin and hyaluronic acid.

movement away from surgical

Second, collagen peptides and

procedures, towards a natural,

free amino acids provide the

effective and reliable solution

building blocks for the formation

to antiageing. Its collagen -rich

of collagen and elastin fibres. In

formula and pleasant taste act

particular, increasing the number

as a strong foundation for this

(or proliferation) of fibroblasts and

innovative product, which is set to

the problem. Hydrolysed collagen

spans the range of 0.3–8 kDa. Its

their activity facilitates a boost in

become a vital part of the beauty

consists of small peptides

low molecular weight provides

the levels of collagen, elastin and

regimes of women all over the

with a low molecular weight,

hydrolysed collagen with several

hyaluronic acid in the dermis.

world. The market is changing

extracted from native collagen.

advantages over native collagen:

Generally, collagen molecules

hydrolysed collagen can be

A Unique Blend

are denatured and partially

dissolved in cold water, is highly

This high quality hydrolysed

hydrolysed to form gelatin

digestible and, furthermore, is

collagen is complemented with

(100 kDa), which can then be

easily absorbed and distributed in

other essential key ingredients,

decomposed into small peptides

the human body.

namely hyaluronic acid, borage

using specific proteins with

and, moving forwards, skincare will start with a sip… PHM

oil, N-Acetylglucosamine,

cleavage activity (proteinase).

The Solution

vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B6.

The molecular weight distribution

Pure Gold Collagen is a new

Hyaluronic acid is essential for

of collagen peptides usually

skincare drink based on a

tissue hydration, lubrication and

24

For more information

Tony Sanguinetti Founder, Minerva Research Labs Tel. +44 2031 377 731 info@minervalabs.com www.gold-collagen.com

January/February 2012

Nutricosmetics

Crossing Continents French Beauty Drinks for the Asian Market Despite being a relatively niche market, the nutricosmetics sector is regarded as one to watch by industry

analysts, WHO believe there to be potential for dynamic growth. Emerging from the nutraceutical movement, nutricosmetics first gained popularity in Japan and Europe — and are only now trickling into the US. In 2008, The Kline Group valued the global nutricosmetics market at $1.5 billion, of which Europe accounted for 55%, followed

by Japan at 41% and the US at 3%. A February 2010 nutricosmetics report by Mintel Beauty Innovation found that new

I

product activity worldwide doubled between 2008 and 2009, with 300 new products launched in THE LATTER. ngredients suppliers have

(Pycnogenol) for a lighter and

responded to the promised

unified complexion. Aurélie De

growth of this market by

Schuyteneer, the company’s

investigating the potential

marketing manager, explains the

oral beauty applications of

logic behind this latest launch:

their ingredients and intensifying

“Solutions to achieve smooth,

their scientific studies. French

flawless, youthful and glowing

nutraceutical manufacturer

white skin are very popular

Laboratoire PYC have been keen

in South East Asia. Leading

to participate in this burgeoning

cosmetics brands continually

sector, developing a range of

innovate to give women and

powder instant beauty drinks —

men the possibility of obtaining

and it now extends its services

this unified skin appeal. We

beyond Europe to address the

have tried to develop a natural

Asian market. Its first nutricosmetic

solution that is efficacious without

offering was introduced in 2008:

being aggressive; the efficiency

Slim & Sun was designed to

of Pearl My Skin is based on

prepare skin for sun exposure

several clinical studies carried

and was followed in 2009 by a

out on Pycnogenol French pine

proven to lighten hyper-pigmented

colour chart and, by at the end of

collagen-based drink, Collagen

bark extract.” The product,

skin through oral intake.

the study period, had lowered by

Beauty Booster, which integrated

which has strong antioxidant

Peptan hydrolyzed collagen to

properties, is proven to slow

Chinese women aged from 29–59

In general, a significant effect was

fight signs of ageing. The company

hyperpigmentation and reduce

and presenting brownish spots was

determined in 80% of the subjects,

turned its attention to battling

skin pigmentation intensity.

carried out. Subjects consumed

which corresponds to a reduction

75 mg of Pycnogenol per day for

of the pigmentary intensity of one to

skin imperfections in 2010, when

A clinical study involving 30

an average of approximately 22%.

it launched Skin’Pure, which

Product Action

1 month. Periodically, the hyper-

two units (using a standard colour

harnesses the antioxidant and

The skin of the face is more

pigmented area was analysed

chart) and to a decrease in the

sebum regulating properties of

susceptible to developing brown

planimetrically and the pigmentary

initial brownish spot size of one third.

zinc and a complex of lactoferrin–

spots or patches than other parts

intensity rated colourimetrically.

rich milk proteins. This year saw

of the body. To counteract them,

Laboratoire PYC present two new

aggressive chemical peeling

spots was measured at three

Anti-Melanogenic Effect

instant beauty drinks in Asia: one

agents are often applied to the

different places and the mean

Melanine, a major pigment in

containing natural vegetal French

skin, despite the fact that some are

value determined. On average,

human skin colour, is synthesized

wheat ceramides (Lipowheat)

known to cause irreversible skin

after a 1 month course, the area

in melanocytes. Melanogenesis

for skin hydration, and the other

damage — Pycnogenol French

size of these spots was reduced by

is activated by oxidation-related

— Pearl My Skin — incorporating

pine bark is a natural and non-

37%. The pigmentary intensity was

processes such as UV radiation

natural French pine bark extract

aggressive solution that is clinically

rated using the national standard

and requires tyrosine kinase

26

The diameter of the brownish

January/February 2012

2012 January/February

27

Nutricosmetics

collaborating to develop efficient

help to maximize skin hydration, as

solutions and fast effects.

designed to complete the action of a moisturizing cream, rather

Figure 1: Pycnogenol’s effect on the UV dose causing sunburn.

On-the-go Products and Natural Formulae

than substitute that action. As a

Another key to convincing

daily personal care regime needs

consumers is simplicity:

boosting. Although consumers

“creating innovative and simple

appreciate quick, efficient

formulae based on dedicated

results, they also wish the use of

nutricosmetics ingredients and

cosmetics to be a pleasurable

presenting products in a simple

experience and, as topical

and easy-to-use product form”

applications include soft textures

is necessary for success. The Age

and employ the use of fragrances,

of Naturals records that nearly

beauty drinks should address the

75% of the women surveyed

importance of taste.

result, nutricosmetics are used as a ‘cure’ for when people feel their

said they would be willing to try

“As you have pleasure taking care of your body with soft textures

kinase inhibitors and photo-

Consumer Confidence

nutricosmetic products, with an “on-the-go” delivery system as

and nice perfumes, beauty drinks

protectors may improve cutaneous

De Schuyteneer also emphasizes

the preferred choice. Several

should satisfy taste immediately”,

hyper-pigmentary disorders and

that “scientific backing is of major

nutraceutical companies,

affirms Aurélie De Schuyteneer.

complexion discolorations. In

importance” to these offerings,

including Laboratoire PYC,

Consumers desire a range of

vitro experiments were carried

highlighting that “lack of evidence”

have invested in developing

appealing tastes in beauty drinks

out on Pycnogenol pine bark

is often quoted in consumer studies

‘stick packs’ for ease of use

and to address this Laboratoire

extract and results suggested that

as an obstacle to the development

and on-the-go characteristics.

PYC employs many natural

Pycnogenol inhibits tyrosine kinase

of the nutricosmetics market. It

Consumers can thus choose to

flavours, including lemon, apple

in melanocytes: in Pycnogenol

is also important to consider the

nourish their skin at their leisure

and grapefruit. De Schuyteneer

treated cells, melanin synthesis

speed of action of such products;

at home or at any time during a

continues: ”People don’t like to feel

was effectively suppressed in

a recent consumer study found

busy day.

that they are drinking a drug. They

a dose-related manner, which

that not being able to see benefits

suggests that the extract reduces

immediately features in the top five

“number of uses” per day; if

addition to being refreshing, helps

the generation of skin pigments.

reasons not to buy nutricosmetics

the product covers the daily

to improve the health and beauty

Furthermore, Pycnogenol’s in vitro

(Mintel report: Nutricosmetics —

recommended dose with only one

of their skin.”

effect was significantly stronger

Ingestible Beauty). According

nutritional supplement, consumers

than that of kojic acid.

to the Pink Report, The Age of

will be more willing to continue

Naturals, published in January

the course. It is also reflected in

Photo-Protection

Nutricosmetics: What’s Next?

2008, there was little variation

a product’s formulation and the

Increasing awareness among

Exposure to sunlight greatly

between the length of time

extent to which it addresses the

consumers, an ageing population

contributes to oxidative stress,

within which consumers expect

natural health trend for food,

and an inclination towards less

which is known to be involved

cosmeceutical or nutraceutical

cosmetics and personal care; as

invasive beauty treatments will

in the over-production of skin

products to effect visible results

De Schuyteneer remarks: “It makes

help to drive the nutricosmetics

pigments. Laboratoire PYC has

— 2 weeks to 1 month was the

sense to develop nutricosmetics

market in the next few years.

developed a formula combining

time frame cited by more than

that are free of preservatives and

According to Global Industry

strong antioxidant active

80% of respondents. As a result,

artificial colours and flavours.”

Anlaysts (GIA) in “Nutricosmetics:

compounds — vitamins C and E

ingredients suppliers and contract

and Pycnogenol — to actively

manufacturers

protect skin from sun damage.

have much

The oral supplementation of 21

to gain by

activity — consequently, tyrosine

volunteers with Pycnogenol was shown to offer protection from

prefer an instant drink which, in

Simplicity depends on the

A Global Strategic Business

Nutricosmetics: The New Cosmetics?

Nutricosmetics should not

which drink and instant drink

as replacements for

manufacturers must continue to

sunburn, with a dose-manner

cosmetics — Laboratoire

effect (Figure 1).

PYC’s solution with wheat clinically proven to

market will reach $4.24bn by 2017 — a promising market for

necessarily be considered

ceramides, which are

Report,” the global nutricosmetics

develop applications. PHM

For more information

Aurélie de Schuyteneer Marketing Manager Laboratoire PYC Tel. +33 488 785 800 aurelie.deschuyteneer@ laboratoire-pyc.com www.laboratoire-pyc.com

28

January/February 2012

t n e v e H C n U A L

CelebratingExcellence InPersonalCare The Personal Care Awards, in association with Pure Health Magazine, is a launch event for the B2B personal care, cosmetic and Beauty from Within industry. The gala dinner event will celebrate excellence and innovation in R&D, marketing, business and technology within the personal care industry, across the entire sector, including ingredients, production, finished products, applications and business practices.

nt e v e e r o for m o to... info g

www.personalcareawards.com

Formulation

Silicones An Invaluable Ingredient Silicones can be found in thousands of applications, in sectors that range from electronics to construction and transport. Silicones also play an important role in personal care, wherein silicone fluids, emulsions, resins and waxes create many of the positive qualities we associate with cosmetics.

B

ringing a wide

and lasting shape to flexible

also used in protective sprays,

tailored to men’s specific

range of aesthetic

hold, natural sheen, protection

lip balms, cooling aftersun

skincare needs. Men’s facial

and technical

from the elements and from

body lotions and aftersun hair

skin is stressed by regular

benefits to

the wear and tear caused

spray, as well as in self-tanning

shaving and therefore needs

formulations,

by blow-drying. In ethnic

applications. They reduce

specific care and protection.

silicones are used by producers

hair care, silicones are used

greasiness and improve sweat

Silicones bring smoothness

and formulators to enhance

in conditioning creams and

resistance, making products

and softness to aftershaves

softness and give products

treatments and to protect the

easier to spread and thus

and cleansing lotions, also

a luxurious texture and

hair’s cuticle. As a result, hair

ensuring that the skin is evenly

offering a light, non-greasy

protecting effects. Silicones are

products that contain silicones

protected.

and non-irritating feel.

not only stable, long-lasting

have become popular for their

and odourless, they are also

power to make it shiny and soft,

and glossy finish to cosmetics,

siloxanes cyclotetrasiloxane

extremely compatible — even

remove frizz, protect hair from

carrying and binding colour

and cyclopentasiloxane,

with non-synthetics — leading

heat and a whole lot more.

and allowing it to spread evenly

have been proven to be safe

the trend in hybrid materials,

Although some soaps and

while maintaining product

for humans, wildlife and the

such as part-silicone, part-

shower gels can strip oil from

stability. Silicones are versatile,

environment. Silicones degrade

organic substances known

the skin’s surface, leaving it dry

which means they can be used

in the environment into silicon

as organomodified silicones.

and flaky, silicones have been

in formulations for lip, face and

dioxide (sand), carbon dioxide

Water-resistance is an essential

used to improve moisturization

eye beauty products. Even just

and water. The many beneficial

property for suncare products

in skin products. They offer

a small amount of silicones in

properties of silicones in

and long-lasting make-up such

improved spreadability in

make-up can help to smooth

personal care products allow

as lipsticks and mascaras; and

silicone-based shower and bath

out lines. They are also used in

them to last longer, spread

silicones deliver in this area

formulations and improved

antiperspirants and deodorants

better, stay flexible or rigid as

too. Even the trend for kissable

foam control and superior foam

because of their volatility,

required, withstand extreme

lipglosses is partly owing to

profile in products that lather.

which gives a dry, non-cooling

temperatures and much more.

the staying power of silicones.

In short, silicones provide a

feel. The use of silicones in

Their versatility helps producers

Silicone-based personal care

protective barrier that allows

deodorants and antiperspirants

and formulators to respond

products are good moisturizers,

the skin to breathe while

allows formulators to meet

to consumer demand while

keeping actives present for

optimizing moisture retention.

consumer demand for low-cost

ensuring consumer safety and

products with fast-drying action

environmental protection. PHM

longer and returning softness

Consumers today are acutely

Silicones give a smooth

Silicones, including the volatile

and vitality to the surface of

aware of the need to protect

and reduced white residue.

the skin. Silicones’ low chemical

their skin from the sun, not just at

These products minimize

reactivity and low toxicity make

the beach but also throughout

irritation, provide moisturizing,

them well suited to personal

everyday life in the city. Two

rapid absorption and non-

care products.

important properties of silicones,

cooling characteristics and

Silicones have been used

sun protection factor (SPF)

improved salt suspension to

in hair products for decades

enhancement — which helps to

reduce shine.

as their properties help to

spread the active filters on the

meet an increasing range

skin — and water-resistance,

currently the largest growing

of consumer demands, from

make them essential ingredients

skincare market and silicones

softness, volume, frizz control

in sunscreen. Silicones are

deliver practical benefits

30

Male personal care is

For more information

Dr Michel De Poortere Secretary General European Silicones Centre (CES) Avenue van Nieuwenhuyse 4, Box 2 B-1160 Brussels, Belgium.

Tel. +32 2 676 7369 silicones@cefic.be www.silicones.eu

January/February 2012

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FORMULATION

Creating Luxurious, Creamy Cleansers with Opacifiers

Scrambling to meet the personal care product demands of their consumers, formulators are often

faced with making choices and sacrifices during the development of their next shampoo or body wash. Now, THEY no longer have to choose between conditioning benefits and creamy textures in cleansing formulations.

W

ith opacifying

Care specifically developed

to create luxurious, creamy

containing high levels of

technologies

OPULYN PQG Opacifier to

formulas with a rich feel. When

betaine. Certain parameters,

such as the

be compatible with cationic

used with dyes, it imparts a high

such as the cationic substitution

new OPULYN

conditioning polymers and

whiteness or a pastel colour

or the molecular weight of the

PQG Opacifier (INCI Name:

allow for the long-term stability

effect. OPULYN PQG is effective

cationic polymers, can pose

ethalkonium chloride acrylate/

of conditioning cleansing

at low use levels and comes in

additional stability challenges

HEMA/styrene copolymer)

products. It is also suitable

an easy-to-use liquid.

in a formulation containing an

launched earlier this year

for formulating body washes

by Dow Personal Care, a

with high concentrations of

Opacifier is the newest member

conditions, ACULYN 38 or

business of The Dow Chemical

amphoteric surfactants.

of the Dow Personal Care

ACULYN 88 rheology modifiers

OPULYN Opacifier family, it has

are a preferred choice as

Company, formulators can

As a novel, distinct opacifier,

Although OPULYN PQG

opacifier. For highly challenging

develop body washes,

OPULYN PQG broadens the

the broadest compatibility

a primary or secondary

shampoos and liquid hand

formulator’s options when

in the presence of cationic

thickening agent. Their high

soaps that are both creamy

designing conditioning

ingredients. During formulation,

efficiency and excellent

and conditioning. Traditional

cleansing formulations. It is

the components, iconicity

suspension performance will

anionic and non-ionic

highly versatile for use in anionic

and pH should be chosen for

both build viscosity and help

opacifiers have very little to

surfactant-based systems across

optimal stability. OPULYN PQG

to prevent flocculation or

no compatibility with cationic

a broad pH range and is ideally

Opacifier can be formulated

sedimentation. As shown in

conditioning polymers

suited for systems containing

within a pH range of 4.0 –10.00.

the chart on the left in Figure

such as polyquaternium-7,

cationic polymers. It is also well

Because of low dosage rates,

3, formulations combining

polyquaternium-10 and

suited to systems with high levels

the low pH of OPULYN PQG

traditional opacifiers with high

cationic guar derivatives. The

of betaine and is suggested

Opacifier should not affect

levels of betaine are often

graph on the left in Figure 1

for body wash, shampoo and

the pH of the final formulation.

instable owing to low pH levels.

illustrates the sedimentation

liquid hand soap formulations

Minor pH adjustments may be

The chart on the right illustrates

issues observed with traditional

that contain polyquaternium-7,

required as a final step. The

the improvements in stability

opacifiers in a formulation

polyquaternium-10,

suggested use level for OPULYN

that can be achieved in these

containing polyquaternium-10.

cationic guar derivatives or

PQG Opacifier is 0.5 –1.0% as

formulation conditions with the

The graph on the right shows

combinations of these. OPULYN

supplied, depending on the

use of OPULYN PQG. PHM

the same formulation with

PQG Opacifier imparts uniform

desired appearance of the

the addition of OPULYN PQG

opacity and a lotionized

final product.

as an opacifier. As illustrated,

appearance to formulations

the formulation developed

by efficiently scattering light

sedimentation are the two

with OPULYN PQG does not

while effectively hiding amber

most common symptoms

show any loss of stability

casts or haziness, as depicted in

of formulation instability,

with time. Dow Personal

Figure 2. It enables formulators

particularly in formulations

32

Flocculation and

For more information

Fabienne Bizeray European Product Marketing Manager Dow Personal Care www.opulyn.com

January/February 2012

www.nutraceuticalmag.com

NUTRACEUTICAL

BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY

Where food and pharma meet

NBT is your musT-read source of News, updaTes aNd developmeNTs iN The fuNcTioNal food, NuTraceuTical, dieTary supplemeNT aNd iNgredieNT iNdusTry. www.nutraceuticalmag.com Probiotics Restoring the balance Claims under pressure

cosmetic Focus Marketing products in Southern Africa

Volume 7 Number 2

March/April 2011

Functional bakery, sPorts nutrition, cognitive HealtH and more

Women’s HealtH EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLES Supplementing the fairer sex

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LAST WORD

Uniformly Smooth

Continuously operating in-line pipeline mixers that are designed to blend, emulsify and breakdown agglomerates can successfully handle delicate dilution applications, such as the manufacture of washing-up liquid.

E

mploying a

completely uniform product.

input flows. Pipeline mixers have a

found in more restrictive

high-speed

The high operating speed and

high throughput-to-kW ratio and

motionless mixers.

rotor that runs in

reduced inlet port provide a

operate at a nominal speed of

close proximity

pumping effect that forces the

3000 rpm, although some of the

washing-up liquid product

to a fixed stator,

With a pipeline mixer, the

product to pass through the

smaller belt-driven in-line mixers

only requires one pass through

pipeline mixers contribute to the

restricted orifices in the stator.

operate at a nominal speed of

the mixing head to reach the

thorough wetting of dispersed

As the fluid passes through the

7200 rpm. In the manufacture

process downstream. This is

substances to create a

rotor and stator, the hydraulic

of washing up liquid, the in-line

because the entire process

shear breaks the product down

mixer can first perform the dilution

stream is directed through

to its primary particle size. The

(with deionized water) of FAES

the mixing head, eliminating

inlet is designed so that it is

(fatty acid ester sulphonate)

any chance of bypassing the

smaller than the line size, which

with 70% active matter, which is

high shear zone. Mixers are

ensures that the fluid is

taken directly from the storage

fitted with a tandem shear

forced through the mixer

tank. To meet the needs of this

mixing head, consisting of two

and acts as the first shear

process, it should be equipped

rotors and two stators to give

zone. Although the pipeline

with a variable speed drive that

additional product refinement.

mixer acts as a pump, it

adjusts to the actual production

The primary rotor forces material

should not be used as a

capacity; 9000–32,000 litres per

through the restricted openings

pumping unit.

hour, for example.

in the primary stator, then the

Designed with a fixed

secondary rotor and secondary

As soon as contact is made

gap setting of 0.2–0.3 mm,

with the water, a gel phase

stator. A multiport secondary

a pipeline mixer can

(70–30%) is formed, requiring the

stator can be utilized to further

handle viscosities of up to

mixer to dilute the base product

increase product refinement.

100,000 cPs (centipoises)

down to a concentration of less

and can also handle

than 30%. At the same time,

mixer should be capable of

products with larger

other surfactants and products

blending, emulsifying and

needed for the basic formulation

breaking down agglomerates —

are added and mixed into the

as well as producing a thorough

diluted material. The mixers then

wetting of dispersed substances

process the base materials,

to create a completely uniform

which requires a temperature-

product. This also makes

sensitive perfume to be added,

them ideal for use in polymer

together with components such

applications, polystyrene

as a matting agent, pigment

delumping, paint manufacture,

and preservatives. A static

food product refinements ,

mixer can also be used for this

amongst others. By requiring just

process. This mixer is designed

one pass of the components

with a patented helical mixing

through the mixer to make them

element that directs the flow of

ready for the process downstream,

material radially towards the pipe

an in-line unit can also be used

walls and back to the centre.

very effectively for the rapid

Additional velocity reversal

blending in the preparation of

and flow division results from

coating, the emulsification of

combining alternating right- and

mayonnaise and the delumping

left-hand elements to increase

of pharmaceutical slurries. PHM

viscosities if a positive displacement pump is used.

This also allows variable

mixing efficiency. All material

For more information

is continuously and completely mixed, eliminating radial gradients in temperature, velocity and material composition. A suitable static mixer should maximize mixing efficiency without the wasted energy and material blockage typically

34

A robustly designed pipeline

Craig Levins Applications Engineer Chemineer 7 Cranmer Road West Meadows DE21 6XT, UK. Tel. +44 1332 363 175 craig.levins@robn.com www.chemineer.com

January/February 2012

Good looks, good sense.

Cosmetics offer a feast for the senses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but what about the sense of responsibility?

Evonik works with you to see your innovations through to completion, while at the same time living up to environmental responsibilities. That means you can create products appealing to the desire for good looks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the need to act with good sense.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Essen, Germany phone +49 201 173 2854 personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care