PHM March 2012

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

MARCH/APRIL 2012

formulation THE POWER OF MOTHER NATURE SENSORY SENSATIONS

HAIR CARE SPRING SHOOTS

PUTTING TRESSES TO THE TEST

SKINCARE FROM BOTOX TO NO-TOX

LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL

INSIDE THE INDUSTRY

MAKING SENSE OF THE SCIENCE FEEDING THE TRENDS

COSMETIC

CAPITAL E COUM S AT

SEE

ETICS M -COS IN

STAND

purehealthmag.co.uk 6 H M

Sun Care

AakoSun UV-filter range THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION ORGANIC UV-FILTERS Avobenzone (BMDBM) Benzophenone 3 & 4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Octyl Methoxycinnamate AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALS C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide

www.aako.nl

Aako was205 founded in AE 1945 and established Much | importance is attached to the need P.O. Box | 3830 Leusden | The Netherlands +31 (0)33 494 84 94 itself as a distributor for speciality

for proper protection against sunlight

Middle East. Trough consistent investment

requirements on suntan lotion products.

chemicals in Europe, North Africa and

in its employees during these 65 years it

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and European regulations impose strict

Our UV-filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture

Sun Care

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Aako is currently active in the following

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markets: detergents, cosmetics (sun

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product development, regulatory affairs THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION

and home care, coating specialties, crop

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and fragrances.

suppliers and customers.

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term close co-operations with(BMDBM) many global Avobenzone

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C12-C15 Alkylnow Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide for further information Please feel free to contact us by phone or by email on suncare@aako.nl

www.aako.nl

P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94

CONTENTS ... h t n I

s i s i

sue

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Event Preview 05 Cosmetics in the Catalan Capital

in-context 08 The Latest in-cosmetics

18

News and Updates

Hair Care 16 Putting Tresses to the Test Jo Smewing

18 Spring shoots Dr S. Gokulshankar

Antiageing

24

20 Turning the Tide of Ageing Anat Stern

Formulation 22 The Power of Mother Nature Tony Abboud

24 Sensory Sensations Dominik Schneider

Skincare 28 The Light at the End of the

30

Tunnel

Dr Sam Robson

30 From Botox to No-Tox Dr Dapeng Zhang

Industry Trends 32 Feeding Cosmetic Trends Manfred Axterer

16 2012 MARCH/APRIL

Last Word 34 Sense about Science Dr Theresa Callaghan

3

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Inspired by nature Please visi t us at In-cosmetic s Barcelon a, 17–19 April 2012, Booth M 5 9

Innovative Solutions Active Ingredients Multifunctional Products MCT-Oils Vegetable Oils Soap Noodles

In response to the growing demand of natural ingredients Cremer Care focuses on natural solutions from reliable sources coming from all over the world.

We offer a wide range of natural as well as organic certified products.

With CremerTIMOLA®, our new product with particularly calming, soothing properties we address formulations for demanding and sensitive skin.

CremerTIMOLA® ’s uniqueness relies on one of the central ideas of Cremer Care: to combine the preservation of indigenous knowledge about plants with potential for cosmetic applications and the promotion of sustainable use, the creation of employment opportunities, as well as an adequate benefit sharing with local communities or individuals.

Additionally, Cremer Care strengthens its ester competence: CremerCOOR®, DYNASAN®, IMWITOR®, MIGLYOL®, SOFTISAN® … are our outstanding ester-based specialities for your cosmetic products.

CREMER OLEO GmbH & CO. KG • Glockengiesserwall 3 • D-20095 Hamburg Phone +49(0)40/3 20 11-0 • www.cremer-care.com

Anzeige_210x149mm.indd 1

16.03.12 11:13

EVENT PREVIEW

Cosmetics in the Catalan Capital Marketing Trends Programme Tuesday 17 April

A

10:30–11:15 Opportunities in Skin Care: Exploring Specialty Actives Nikola Matic, Project Leader, Kline 11:45–12:45 in-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel Discussion E-communication – A Major Challenge in Sun Protection 13:15–14:00 Sense About Science: The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic Clinical Trials and the Impact on Consumer (Mis) Understanding.

Dr Theresa Callaghan, Owner, Callaghan Consulting International, Hamburg, Germany.

14:15–15:00 Men’s Toiletries — The Slumbering Giant — How to Awaken It? Will King, Founder & CEO, The King Of Shaves Co. Ltd 15:45–16:30 Natural & Organic Cosmetic Brand Naturalness Ratings Amarjit Sahota, Founder and Director, and Judi Beerling, Technical Director, Organic Monitor 18:00–20:00 in-cosmetics Innovation Zone best ingredient awards Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards.

s one of Europe’s

full-scale innovation platform has

most beautiful

been designed to help industry

cities and the

players to evaluate the latest

Wednesday 18 April

heart of Spain’s

developments and anticipate

€7.8 billion

future trends. Its programme will

09:45–10:30 Solar Logic: Innovation and Insight in Sun Protection Nica Lewis, Mintel 11:00–12:00 Exploring the Future of Nano Protection in-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel Discussion 12:30–13:15 Future M&A Trends and Drivers Across the Personal Care Value Chain Eric Vogelsberg, Senior Vice President, M&A and Corporate Development Practice, Kline 13:45–14:30 Exploring (New) Paradigm Shifts in Global Beauty Irina Barbalova, Head of Beauty and Personal Care, Euromonitor International 15:00–15:45 How to Translate Future Trends into Innovation for Raw Materials Suppliers.

Antoinette van den Berg, Designer, Leading Spirit and Founder, Future-Touch 16:15–17:15 Niche Brands Building for Success Live Interviews conducted by Angelika Meiss, Editor-in-Chief, Cossma

cosmetic market, Barcelona

include a dedicated scientific

seems particularly suited

seminar on sun protection and

to its role as the host of this

panel discussions on consumer

year’s largest personal care

education and nanoparticles. A

ingredients event, set to take

special man-made beach area,

place from April 17–19 at the

designed to trigger new ideas

Gran Via exhibition centre. As

and provide an original setting

ever, the business opportunities

for networking opportunities, will

for companies will be plentiful:

form the centre piece of in-focus

more than 500 world-class

this year. A beachside photo

suppliers of new and innovative

gallery illustrating the evolution of

cosmetic ingredients and

sun care advertising through the

services have already signed up

last 60 years will be accompanied

to attend the event — 3 months

by a skin clinic highlighting the

before the show begins. Industry

damage that exposure to the

heavyweights such as Croda,

sun can cause, an interactive

Thursday 19 April

DSM, Lubrizol and Merck will

video on nanotechnologies and

once again have a presence,

exclusive insights into how to

alongside in excess of 50 first-

innovate using social networks. A

time exhibitors, originating from

dedicated ‘solar trail’ will clearly

countries as diverse as Bulgaria,

highlight the exhibitors with solar

China, Korea and Switzerland.

beauty projects on their stands for

09:45–10:30 The Sensory and Indulgent Side of Personal Care Mark Whalley, Senior Analyst, and Michaela Peck, Analyst, Datamonitor 11:00–11:45 Finding the Sweet Spot of Nutricosmetics Ewa Hudson, Head of Health and Wellness, Euromonitor International 12:15–13:00 From Facebook to Face Creams — Exploring Social Media Channels and their Impacts on Beauty Brands Wendy Lewis, President, Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd, Global Aesthetics Consultancy 13:30–14:15 Recreating the Mall Online: How to Make Social Shopping Truly Beautiful Amy Kean, Head of Consumer Innovation, MPG Media Contacts

‘Solar beauty’ will be the theme of 2012’s in-focus feature and will have a larger role to

visitors making their way around the show. in-cosmetics group marketing

play than any previously. Echoed

manager, Cathy Laporte,

through the entire event, it will

commented: “Last year’s show

navigate visitors through the

in Milan was packed with

complex solar beauty labyrinth. A

professionals looking to source

2012 MARCH/APRIL

5

IN-CONTEXT

Innovation Seminar Programme Tuesday 17 April

10:30–11:00 Proteins Re-Evaluated: A Greener Way to Achieve Active Benefits for Cosmetics TRI-K Industries 11:00–11:30 Novemer EC2 – New Multifunctional Liquid Polymer for High Performance Skincare Systems Lubrizol Advanced Materials Europe BVBA 11:30–12:00 A Liposoluble Active to Protect and Repair Skin Erythema and Barrier Function Loss Innovacos Corp.

12:00–12:30 An Interlude with Seppic: Trends 2012–2013 SEPPIC SA 12:30–13:00 A New Biomimetic Ingredient of the Skin Hydrolipidic Film: Clinical Benefits B&Tcompany – The HallStar Company 13:00–13:30 Galaxy SunBeat: A Unique WaterSoluble Sunscreen Galaxy Sufactants 13:30–14:00 ‘Skin Radiance:’ How to Characterize and Measure It Silab 14:00–14:30 A presentation by BASF Beauty Care Solutions 14:30–15:00 A New Generation of Technologies for the Treatment of Damaged Hair Croda 15:00–15:30 A presentation by Naturex 15:30–16:00 Composite ACT-50: A UV Powder for Efficient and Safer Sunscreens KOBO Products, Inc.

16:00–16:30 Performance and Aesthetics in Natural Brands Inolex 16:30–17:00 Vitipure – Coming Closer to the Fountain of Youth Clariant International Ltd 17:00–17:30 New Polymer Technology for Water Resistance Dow Personal Care 17:30–18:00 Purasal Mild: Natural, Cost-Effective Mildness Enhancer for Rinse–Off Personal Care Products Purac

Wednesday 18 April 09:30–10:00 Gemmonova: A Bud Extract Enhancing Skin Beauty Jan Dekker International 10:00–10:30 Innovative Claim Support for Refreshing, Cooling and Soothing Products proDERM GmbH 10:30–11:00 Multi-functional Marine Active Ingredient as a Gentle Alternative to AHAs Aqua Bio Technology ASA 11:00–11:30 DermCom — An Activator of Epidermal-Dermal Communication for Deep Skin Rejuvenation Mibelle Biochemistry 12:00–12:30 Natural Active Ingredients from Plant Stem Cells to Preserve Skin Functions IRB 12:30–13:00 The Lenitive and Photoaging Preventing Properties of a Unique Asian Extract Indena S. p. A.

13:00–13:30 New Tilamar Fix A140 – Combining Ultimate Hold with Fast Drying for the First Time DSM Nutritional Products Ltd 13:30–14:00 Innovative Natural Fibres Blend as Emulsifier/Thickener Berg + Schmidt (GmbH & Co.) KG 14:00–14:30 Sustainable Sensory – Development of New Natural Cosmetic Particles Evonik Industries AG 14:30–15:00 The Beauty Bar: The Future of Top-toToe Cleansing in Bar and Solid Formats Innospec 15:00–15:30 The Fast Way to Get Rid of Wrinkles RAHN AG 15:30–16:00 A presentation by Rhodia 16:00–16:30 Using Pathways in Plants to Increase Bilirubin Degradation and Decrease Under-eye Circles Lonza AG 16:30–17:00 A presentation by Beraca 17:00–17:30 CremerTimola, Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Extract, Indigenous Plant Knowledge for Personal Care Cremer Care 17:30–18:00 Innovative Preservation Solutions for Today’s Formulator Lonza AG

09:30–10:00 The CeeTox Repeat Dose Systemic Toxicity Panel CeeTox, Inc. 10:00–10:30 Japanese Traditional Fruit Extract, AGEs Crosslinks Breaker, Improve the Aged Skin Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co. Ltd

10:30–11:00 Style and Relax BASF 11:00–11:30 Sebum and Acne Manifestation Control by Quillaja Saponins: Objective Evaluation of Performance ISPE srl 11:30–12:00 Novel Molecular Approach to Sensitive Skin Lipotec 12:00–12:30 Innovation for Natural Cosmetics 2: Viewing a Range of Amino Acid Technology Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V 12:30–13:00 New Type of Silicone Emulsifiers and Ingredients Used in Personal Care Applications BioMax Si&F New Material Co. Ltd 13:00–13:30 Disrupt Photoaging — Breakthrough Zeta Fraction Technology From Living Plants AkzoNobel Global Personal Care 13:30–14:00 Innovative Anti-ageing Tetrapeptide for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Ageing Miwon Commercial Co. Ltd 14:00–14:30 Preservative Effects of Zemea Propanediol, a Natural Glycol Replacement DuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts 14:30–15:00 How Can Nature-derived Texturizers Answer the Main Trends of Personal Care Industry?

Cargill France SAS 15:00–15:30 Direct Accelerated Stability Tests for Cosmetic Products by an Innovative Technology LUM GmbH

the newest products and

to the event, tying in perfectly

latest developments from the

with the setting of Barcelona.”

Thursday 19 April

world’s cosmetic and personal

6

care industry and all the early

Shining a Light

indicators are that the 2012

Other highlights include the

exhibition will be even more

hugely popular innovation

impressive. We have already

zone, which presents some of

booked 11,600 m2 of floor space

the latest ingredients launched

— the largest ever area for the

by exhibitors and the most

event — meaning that it will

innovative beauty products

exceed the record-breaking

selected by Mintel Beauty &

2011 show. The educational

Personal Care. This will also

programme features are also the

include the best ingredient

most diverse yet and this year’s

award, which recognizes

in-focus theme of solar beauty

the most innovative and

will provide an exciting addition

original ingredients in the

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Following its success at last year’s exhibition in Milan, and more recently at in-cosmetics Asia, the innovation zone will also make a return. show. Suppliers will present

launches, the seminars will

free innovation seminars

cover a wide range of topics

highlighting products that

and include a variety of talks,

have just entered, or will

such as “Proteins Re-Evaluated:

soon enter, the market and

A Greener Way to Achieve

workshops, scientific seminars

Active Benefits for Cosmetics”

and free marketing trend

by TRI-K Industries, “The Lenitive

presentations delivered by

and Photoageing Preventing

industry experts will focus on

Properties of a Unique Asian

the latest topics of widespread

Extract,’ presented by Indena

interest.

S.p.A. and “Composite ACT-50:

Highlights of the marketing

Tuesday 17 April

14:00–18:00 Spotlight on Sun Protection (a Solar Beauty Seminar)

Wednesday 18 April 09:30–13:00 Cosmetogenomics – At the Cutting Edge of Cosmetic Science Featuring contributions from VitroScreen, the University of Bradford, Laboratoires Expanscience and the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection of the JRC, European Commission.

14:00–18:00 Alternative (Non-Animal) Methods for Cosmetics Testing With experts from the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), the Centre for Alternatives to Animal Testing – Europe (CAAT-EU), CeeTox and AgenoLab.

Formulation Workshop Programme Thursday 19 April

09:30–13:00 Green Formulations: Overcoming the Technical Hurdles Judi Beerling, Organic Monitor

A UV Powder for Efficient and

trends programme include

Safer Sunscreens’ by KOBO

a session led by Nicola

Products, Inc.”

Matic, project leader at

Scientific Seminar Programme

Experts will also discuss one

Kline & Company, entitled

of the most dynamic fields in

“Opportunities in Skincare:

the industry during the scientific

Exploring Speciality Actives,”

seminar “Cosmetogenomics

focusing on new trends in the

— At the Cutting Edge of

market. Later that day, Will King,

Cosmetic Science,” featuring

founder and CEO of The King of

contributions from VitroScreen,

Shaves brand, will speak about

the University of Bradford,

maximizing opportunities for

Laboratoires Expanscience

companies in his presentation,

and the Institute for Health and

“Men’s Toiletries — the

Consumer Protection of the

Slumbering Giant — How

JRC, European Commission.

to Awaken It.” Nica Lewis, a

Attendees will learn about the

the major technical and

for new product launches

global skincare analyst with

latest gene expression studies

formulation issues associated

and many companies have

Mintel, will take a close look at

and discover how proteomics

with such products, providing

already signed up to exhibit

the event’s key theme in “Solar

techniques can help in

practical advice and solutions

their latest innovations, including

Logic: Innovation and Insight in

understanding the mechanisms

to cosmetic and ingredient

Ceetox, Gattefosse, Lonza

Sun Protection.” Ewa Hudson,

of efficacy and safety. Following

companies. Judi Beerling,

and Unipex. The innovation

head of health and wellness at

this, “Alternative (Non-Animal)

technical research manager at

zone best ingredient award,

Euromonitor International will also

Methods for Cosmetics Testing,”

Organic Monitor, will lead the

which recognizes the most

chair a discussion on “Finding the

will delve into the impact of the

workshop, with the primary aim

groundbreaking development

Sweet Spots of Nutricosmetics,”

ban on animal testing scheduled

of providing practical advice for

at the show, is a central part of

which will highlight the increased

for 2013. Featuring contributions

organizations looking to obtain

the feature, with the winners

popularity of less conventional

from industry professionals and

certification in new and organic

being announced in the

beauty solutions and explore

concluding with a round table

cosmetic standards.

marketing trends theatre on the

potential developments in

and discussion on possible

this area.

alternatives, this session will

year’s exhibition in Milan, and

Following its success at last

be essential for any business

more recently at in-cosmetics

about the latest ingredients

that stands to be affected by

Asia, the innovation zone will

and formulation techniques

changes to existing legislation.

also make a return. Featuring

On 19 April, a formulation

product demonstrations and

Those keen to find out more

can do so this year through the 40 innovation seminars.

workshop entitled “Green

packed with more than 50

Designed to provide first-hand

Formulations: Overcoming the

new product launches, it is the

knowledge of the most recent

Technical Hurdles,” will highlight

best place to find inspiration

2012 MARCH/APRIL

17 April from 18:00–20:00. PHM

For more information

Visitors registering before 16 April will receive free entry to the show. For more information on registering, visit www.in-cosmetics.com.

7

IN-CONTEXT

CARING CRODA

Croda (stand G30) will introduce three biomimetic solutions for today’s science-savvy consumers. The next generation of biomimetic keratin — Keramimic 2.0 — combines the best of science and nature to offer intelligent, targeted repair for the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface, delivering outstanding hair conditioning and feel. Collasurge, a new marine collagenbased moisturizing active, allows manufacturers to respond to the surge in consumer interest in collagen, whereas the Cystine Hair Smoothing System showcases a range of innovative biopolymers in four hair care formulations specially designed to create straight, shiny and manageable hair. The company is also proud to unveil a new and innovative hair conditioning agent, KeraDyn HH. Proven to deliver ‘healthy hair dynamics’ to damaged hair, the ingredient provides the hair care sector with a new, exciting marketing platform for the next generation of products. It is possible to establish the health of hair by the way it moves and KeraDyn HH (supported by a global data package) has been designed to boost the dynamics of damaged hair, enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair strands to encourage freedom of movement.

Croda will also introduce visitors to two more initiatives: the company’s new novel emollient, a 100% naturally derived ingredient that is a sensory alternative to squalane and the emulsion textures kit, an innovative sample kit demonstrating the unique textures that can be achieved through the combination of carefully selected emulsifiers and emollients. The kit takes an in-depth look at the influence of emulsifiers and emollients on the texture and sensorial properties of a system. Boasting more than 30 years of experience in developing, formulating and testing UV filters, Croda will be expanding their extensive portfolio of sun protection ingredients. Committed to meeting global sun care trends with locally tailored sunscreen actives, Solaveil XT-40W is a new globally-approved UV filter, whereas Solaveil AT-300 has been developed to make meeting the FDA requirements for broad-spectrum protection ‘as easy as ABC.’

A Breath of Fresh Air

AkzoNobel have launched a new line of completely sustainable bioactive ingredients that aim to bring unparalleled benefits to antiageing skincare. The range will be defined as ‘fresh approaches’ to emphasize its originality, inventiveness and innovation and will comprise a host of sustainable ingredients and solutions that will be introduced throughout 2012 by the global personal care arm of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry (stand N30). In keeping with this theme, the company will showcase its Recentia plant serum fractions — a new line of bioactive ingredients based on breakthrough Zeta Fraction technology. This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy and differentiation to antiageing skincare.

Recentia CS, the first Zeta Fraction active ingredient to be introduced, capitalizes on the powerful, biologically active substances contained in the fresh leaves of the Camellia sinensis tea plant. This ingredient targets the multiple biological pathways associated with both internal and external stress on skin. For the first time, potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, free-radicalscavenging and photo-stabilizing activities are combined in a single ingredient to protect skin from the root causes of photoageing.

Zeta Fraction technology selectively isolates intracellular components from fresh, living plants and marine sources to produce bioactive ingredients able to capture the powerful synergy that exists within plant cells. The result is a wide range of multi-targeted benefits that are superior to those obtained through conventional plant extraction technology. In addition, the ingredients only include naturally occurring, unmodified substances and are therefore completely sustainable, reproducible and safe (www.akzonobel.com/personalcare).

Hot Stuff

This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy and differentiation to antiageing skincare.

Croda will also be presenting their Solaveil physical shield campaign, a socially responsible approach to educating consumers about the importance of sun protection. In a world in which consumers demand to be increasingly informed and assured, the Solaveil physical shield campaign can promote confidence and add value to sunscreen and beauty products. With a fun and interactive website, a host of PR activities and an ongoing social media marketing strategy, Croda aim to inform, generate awareness and communicate the message that when the sun comes out, so should Solaveil. In addition, Croda will introduce Versathix, an exceptionally versatile rheology modifier that provides excellent thickening in traditional and sulphate-free systems, coupled with shear thinning rheology (especially important in bath and shower gels) and has no impact on foaming.

Further to this wide range of launches, Terraquat BD — a new, ultimately biodegradable hair conditioning agent with an excellent aquatic toxicity profile that mirrors the performance of traditional conditioning agents — will also be launched. This environmentally friendly product provides conditioning and detangling properties to hair care formulations and claims to show great formulation versatility, being suitable for use in shampoos, conditioners and styling agents. Croda will also take part in the in-cosmetics solar beauty trail, which will feature globally approved ingredients to create formulations suitable for global trends, locally tailored solutions to comply with differing regulatory requirements needs and socially responsible approaches to inform consumers about the importance of sun protection (www.croda.com).

8

Setalg (stand G50), a French company specializing in natural marine ingredients and private label cosmetics, will be presenting its exclusive range of natural products, including rinse-off/peel-off masks and wraps, marine muds, clays, bath salts and scrubs. Praised for their high quality, the company offers three types of products: peel-off and rinse-off bases, standard formulations and product customization and claim to use their unique know how to adapt texture, active ingredients, colour and fragrance to suit customer requests. In addition, Setalg delivers bulk or customized individual packaging.

A ready-to-use concept that does not require the addition of water, the company’s microwavable mask is 100% natural and used for its heating properties. The extremely light weight and boosting effect of this formulation is said to bring real added value to professional treatments by increasing their activity and attractiveness. Its unique heating properties stimulate the optimal opening of skin pores, better penetration of actives, feelings of instant relaxation and exceptional lightness. The formulation’s fatty base and heating effect encourages a better penetration of actives and a sense of well-being (www.setalg.com).

MARCH/APRIL 2012

in-CONTEXT

Real Beauty Comes From Within

Verisol, the bioactive collagen peptides from GELITA (stand W55), stimulate skin metabolism and thus substantially increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, with the effect of noticeably reducing wrinkle formation. Asian women have long since recognized the value of collagen to promote beauty but in Europe and in the USA consumer knowledge is principally derived from the claims made for topical cosmetic applications. Collagen peptides are still rather rare as an ingredient in dietary supplements or nuticosmetics, although it is becoming evident that this trend, established in Asia, is moving westwards and ‘beauty from within’ is finding a place as a major global cosmetic trend. Verisol, which is administered orally, directly influences the skin metabolism from the inside, stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis to increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, all of which are vital for balancing skin elasticity — and thus for improving skin condition. The ingredient is a pure collagen protein with excellent bioavailability that can be easily incorporated into a wide variety of products; from pharmaceutical-like applications such as capsules or tablets to dietary supplements and indulgence products such as chocolate or beverages. Visit the GELITA stand to be convinced that Verisol can contribute to the success of your product range (www.gelita.com).

Breaking the Code

As individuals age, negative expressions such as frowns have a tendency to become set as the skin loses its elasticity and positive expressions lose their structure as the skin starts to sag. Whereas crow’s feet are considered to be smile wrinkles, forehead lines harden the gaze and deepening nasal furrows, with the appearance of circumoral wrinkles, indicate bitterness.

In young women, high cheekbones and a tapering chin form what is called a triangle of beauty. In older women, however, forehead lines and nasal furrows delineate an inverse triangle of beauty. Natural ageing of the skin is the result of a slow, progressive and genetically determined process and, with age, the genes that code for the synthesis of the dermal structural molecules — elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid — enter a ‘sleeping phase.’ As a result, the dermal matrix loses its structure and the skin reduces in firmness, causing long-term lines to become ‘fixed’ and wrinkles accentuated. To help to fight this genetically programmed inversion of the triangle of beauty, Codif Recherche et Nature (stand C20) has developed an extract of fertile bases of Undaria pinnatifida called Matrigenics.14 G. This new active ingredient is rich in Wakamic ester and works to reactivate genes that are lying dormant.

Undaria pinnatifida , also referred to as Wakame, is a brown macroalga that originates in Asia, where it is grown on ropes and eaten. Codif Recherche et Nature cultivates Wakame in a protected area of the Rance estuary in Brittany on a system of submerged ropes. Undaria pinnatifida is characterized by tissues known as fertile bases or Mekabu, which contain the spores by which the species reproduces. The fertile bases represent a concentration of life that not only ensures the reproduction of the algae but its survival across the centuries.

To assess their antiageing benefits, the company isolated them from the rest of the alga to extract their compounds.

Their laboratory has discovered a sulphated galactofucan — Wakamic ester — which is not only able to activate the genes involved in the synthesis of the extra cellular matrix (collagen, elastin and proteoglycans), but also their anchoring and organization into the matrix, for a wider restructuring effect. The antiageing effect of Matrigenics.14 G was measured on forehead lines, nasal furrows and circumoral wrinkles following 14 and 28 day treatments. After 14 days, significant decreases in the volume (23.8%) and area (14.4%) of the forehead wrinkles were measured. After 28 days, the volume and area of the nasal furrows were seen to decrease by 8% and 9%, whereas volume and area of the circumoral wrinkles were decreased by 18% and 16%, respectively (www.codifrecherche-et-nature.com).

10

In and Out Approaches

Lipotec’s (stand K20) nutricosmetic brand, Insidetec, is set to introduce two new oral formulations: Invertage and Inhydrate. Based on the Mediterranean diet, Invertage capsules contain functional nutrients that are well known for their beneficial effects in collagen protection and the prevention of oxidative stress — thus preventing skin from the most visible signs of ageing. Food grade ingredients in Inhydrate capsules have proven efficacy in improving skin moisture from the inside out by enhancing barrier function and protecting cells from dehydration.

The products are supported by Lipotec’s expertise in molecular cosmetics and efficacy tests have proven the antiageing and moisturizing benefits of this novel approach. Depth of wrinkles decreased by 51% after 30 days of combining the intake of Invertage capsules with the topical application of a cream containing 5% Trylagen, Lipotec’s key collagenboosting ingredient. Skin hydration increased by 156% after 56 days of combining Inhydrate Capsules with a 2% Diffuporine hexapeptide cream, which not only increases skin hydration but also induces collagen I synthesis and keratinocyte proliferation.

Furthermore, novel peptides from Aimtec targeting sensitive skin, in addition to new antiwrinkle biotech active ingredients from Biointec, will be among key products launched at in-cosmetics (www.lipotec.com).

Mild Care for Sensitive Skin

Individuals’ well-being can be greatly affected by the condition of their skin — and this is causing to more and more consumers, especially those with sensitive skin, to seek nourishing and soothing products. To help manufacturers to meet these demands, BASF’s (stand D40) care chemicals division has launched Cetiol RLF, its first light emollient produced using an enzymatic process that is derived solely from renewable feedstocks, proven to be mild on sensitive skin and kind to the environment. During the last 5 years, products with marketing claims relating to sensitive skin and environmental benefits have significantly increased their share of the personal care market and — owing to its light texture, rapid absorption and smoothing effect on the skin — formulations containing Cetiol RLF are ideally suited to products that carry such promises.

It is widely known that the sensorial properties of a cosmetic product are influenced by the spreading properties of emollients; Cetiol RLF is a fast-spreading emollient that gives products a pleasant and light skin feel with a crystal-clear appearance and a light natural odour. This makes it an attractive component in a modern skin care formulations and, as such, it is suitable for use in a wide variety of mild products. Dermatological tests done on a group of individuals with sensitive skin confirmed that it does not even irritate sensitive skin after tape stripping and under exaggerated test conditions. BASF’s (www.basf.com) emollient can therefore be described as suitable for babies, children and adults with sensitive skin — even for those with atopic skin. In addition to this, the new ingredient is ideal for products that claim a high content of natural ingredients as it is made from 100% natural renewable feedstock and catalyzed with enzymes; a new process that helps to reduce emissions and ensure high quality. Additionally, the emollient is approved by Ecocert, certified by NaTrue and the National Products Association (NPA) and recommended for concepts that accord with BDIH and COSMOS. Fabio Triggiani, part of the personal care marketing division, explains: “Cetiol RLF helps to satisfy the needs of consumers with sensitive skin and address the desire for products of natural origin. Its proven mildness, along with its hydrating effect and light skin feel, can enhance people’s sense of well-being.”

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Marine biotechnology for sustainable cosmetics Lipotec’s active ingredients in BiointecTM are naturally occurring in non-genetically modified organisms, which are used to manufacture cosmetic ingredients through biotechnological means. The result is a sustainable production of actives from the sea while preserving the environment, since there is no harvesting or extracting from nature.

Visit us at our stand K20

in-CONTEXT

Crème de la Crème

Cremer Oleo (stand M59) has assumed control of the operations of the Witten facilities from the Sasol Group in an attempt to establish the company as Europe’s leading manufacturer of oleochemical speciality esters. The business wishes to place particular emphasis on their MCT oils, which fall under the brand names CremerCOOR and MIGLYOL and find widespread use in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic segments.

The company has achieved a unique position as the world’s only manufacturer that operates high-performance mono plants exclusively for the production of MCT oils and GMP-certified production in two completely independent facilities. In addition, it offers a wide selection of technical grades (such as C7, C8 and C10), attends to sustainability issues (boasting coconut oil-based products, Ecocert certification and membership of the RSPO) and ensures compliance with a multitude of quality standards (including ISO 9001 and ISO 22000, Kosher, Halal, EP and GMP). These offerings are complemented by a broad spectrum of ester-based specialities, including CremerCOOR, DYNASAN, IMWITOR, MIGLYOL, SOFTISAN and WITEPSOL, which have a variety of uses in human and animal foodstuffs, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries and technical applications. Depending on their composition, they serve as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers and consistency builders, acting as essential elements of customer-specific end products and playing an instrumental role in guaranteeing their quality, stability and safety.

Multifunctional production lines, a multitude of follow-up processes including a state-of-the-art, multi-step short-path distillation, several flaking and pelletizing lines and more than 100 years of experience in the manufacture and application of special oleochemical products, enable Cremer Oleo to offer customers solutions to meet their specific needs. The company believes that backwards integration for the most important basic raw materials, integral dovetailing of the activities of its Witten and Wittenberge facilities and the lean structures of a medium-scale enterprise means it is excellently positioned in the global marketplace. Through this acquisition it hopes to create long-term synergies and, in combination with a broad spectrum of active ingredients, vegetable oils, soap noodles, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and glycerines from the Cremer Care portfolio, position the company as an all-round system provider for the cosmetics manufacturing sector (www.cremer-care.de).

Dow-n with the Industry

The Dow Chemical Company (stand Y30) will feature a broad range of products from its personal care, microbial control and performance additives sectors. Visitors will learn how its businesses provide distinct advantages to numerous segments within the industry; from eye products and colour cosmetics to conditioners, shampoos and styling products, in addition to skincare, bath and shower and sun protection products. Eunice Heath, global general manager of Dow Home & Personal Care, described the company as “excited to participate in the in-cosmetics trade show to showcase our broad portfolio of technologies — especially three new products that we’re launching this year. Through close collaboration with customers, Dow strives to deliver new technologies that set our customers’ products apart from the competition.”

New products to be launched include EPITEX 66 Polymer, a water-resistant polymer for skin and sun care applications, ACUDYNE Shine, a hair styling polymer offering outstanding shine in high VOC hair sprays and EcoSense Surfactants, a new family of plant-based, biodegradable surfactants for use in shampoo and skin cleansing applications. In addition, Dow Personal Care will present an innovation seminar for the show’s educational programme and a live demonstration as part of the innovation zone feature.

Dow Microbial Control, a leader in the field of preservation that offers options for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care formulations, will feature a wide range of products, including paraben- and formaldehyde-free solutions. Additionally, visitors can learn more about the Dow Microbial Control customer application centre’s offerings to customers, which include performing tests to evaluate and optimize biocides, solving customer problems, delivering customized solutions and offering product development services, bringing them the latest innovations from global and local R&D centres. Each of these application centres contains dedicated application and challenge-testing laboratories with best-in-class equipment, including TAUNOVATE High Throughput optimization. With its globally approved, broad spectrum NEOLONE and KATHON preservatives, Dow Microbial Control is uniquely positioned to offer high-performing actives and formulations designed for personal care and cosmetic applications. The business has developed application testing that clearly demonstrates the exceptional performance benefits of AMP-ULTRA PC specialty neutralizer in a range of hair styling products. Today’s consumers lead hectic lives and expect their hair products to keep up with their lifestyle; Dow Performance Additives will showcase personal care neutralizers that can maximize the performance of hair styling products, skincare, eye care and sun care applications (www.dow.com).

12

The Beauty of Technology

Stable Micro Systems (stand B60), a world leader in texture analysis and powder flow instrumentation, will be showcasing its new comprehensive texture analysis package at the show. This extended capability is the result of the company’s expertise in the cosmetics industry, ongoing research and close collaboration with its global customer base. The package incorporates a redesigned TA.XTplus texture analyser that boasts new accessories for bespoke applications and improved ease of use. The software suite features an ‘education zone,’ which offers users a wealth of application material, an extensive library of technical information, published academic papers and valuable insights into the optimum choice of probes and fixtures. Existing customers can access a free software upgrade to benefit from the improved functionality of the newly-launched package.

Stable Micro Systems’ unique approach is founded on research, rigourous testing and cutting-edge product development and it believes that its latest developments underscore the company’s position as a pioneer in texture analysis. Its approach has been encapsulated in its new corporate strapline: ‘innovation, education, application.’ With applications in R&D, product development and quality control, this new texture analysis package is ideally suited to testing ingredients, finished products and cosmetic packaging.

Typical tests include measurement of gel strength, lipstick break strength, soap hardness and flow properties in powders and creams. The TA.XTplus can also be used to quantify cosmetic benefits and substantiate product claims. The effect that shampoos and conditioners have on hair softness, for example, can be determined by measuring tensile strength, combing forces and extensibility of hair strands after being treated with a particular product.

Stable Micro Systems prides itself on superior post-purchase technical, instrument and application support and training. Dedicated technical experts and knowledgeable distributors on every continent provide advice and assistance to formulators and manufacturers as they address the challenges of new product development and consumer satisfaction. Mark Proto, managing director at Stable Micro Systems, commented: “We are pleased to be launching our new texture analysis package to the industry at in-cosmetics. Innovation, education and application are fundamental to our long-standing success in developing analytical instruments and accessories tailored to the challenging applications of the cosmetics industry.” He continued to explain that “this new texture analysis package delivers precise and reliable measurements for a wide range of cosmetic studies. We are committed to developing our products and applications in partnership with customers and maintaining our technical support and application guidance throughout the product’s life span.” Representatives from the company will be available on its stand to answer texture analysis product and applications questions (www.stablemicrosystems.com).

MARCH/APRIL 2012

in-context

The Scent of Sustainability

Earthoil Plantations (stand H30), the cosmetics ingredients division of Treatt plc, will exhibit its latest range of ethically sourced cosmetic ingredients. Among the items highlighted will be exciting new fruit seed oil ingredients for the cosmetic formulator: Organic Sour Cherry Seed Oil and Guava Seed Oil. The company will also be showing two essential oils from its new Japanese range and an extended range of Eartholates, its innovative, natural, pure organic aromatic isolates. These unique ingredients will give cosmetic formulators a wider palette to use when developing new products. Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter, part of Earthoil’s (www.treatt.com) comprehensive range of vegetable oils, will also be featured.

Demand for products that contain natural, organic, ethically-sourced ingredients continues to grow — and more developers are welcoming traceable pure raw materials as a means to help them to strengthen their position in the competitive ethical marketplace. Earthoil recognizes the industry’s need for reliable high-quality sourcing of natural ingredients in cosmetics and therefore maintains clear operational standards in growing, handling, storage and distribution.

Earthoil works closely with its technical staff, certifiers, processors and growers to ensure that its products meet the most exacting quality standards. The company’s engagement with some of India and Africa’s poorest farming communities has also been welcomed, both for its provision of income and for community projects that are undertaken and funded by the Earthoil Organic Farms Foundation (EOFF).

A Sustainable Commitment

Laboratoires Prod’hyg (stand W40) are extending their environmental policy and compounding their commitment to local populations by working to tackle malnutrition in Burkina Faso. The company will be promoting ProdhylemGae, a cosmetic antiageing ingredient derived from locally produced algae, spirulin. Produced on the Petit Seminaire farm in the village of Koudougou, this highly proteinic blue alga is widely distributed to the local population as a food supplement. The formulation and innovation department of Laboratoires Prod’hyg has also launched a hydro-glycerinated extract of this Spirulina Platensis dedicated to the antiageing personal care products. The success of this ingredient in a cosmetics formula will in turn help Laboratories Prod’hyg to support local NGOs and help to promote the autonomy of the local African families (www.technapspiruline.com).

SOLABIA

Its development of pre- and probiotic active ingredients has made Solabia Research (stand P15) a key player in microbial ecology and the company is now offering a complementary mechanism of action. This new approach centres on inhibiting the adhesion of undesirable or pathogenic bacterial strains that are associated with body odour, acne, atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin. Unlike the antibacterial products that are commonly used in the cosmetic industry, this alternative strategy addresses the needs of the cutaneous Ecosystem and the skin’s natural defenses, such as the Ecoflora (microbial saprophytic flora). Teflose is a natural, rhamnose-rich, branched

14

polysaccharide that is obtained by bacterial fermentation. It plays the role of an anti-adhesive protective cover (a “Teflon-like” effect). It also helps to modulate the resultant inflammatory response generated by microbial stress and works to decrease feelings of discomfort.

Solabia will also be presenting the result of its research into enzymatic biocatalysis: Viniderm. This ingredient is obtained through a patented bioconversion process, which converts resveratrol found in the grapes of Languedoc Roussillon into delta-viniferin to gain a higher antioxidant concentration than is found naturally on the vine. Delta-viniferin is then associated with other polyphenols found in grape juice to give the final ingredient, Viniderm, a double efficiency. It both preserves the skin’s youthfulness by protecting stem cell niches and mitochondrial DNA and reduces the signs of ageing by redensifying the extra-cellular matrix. The active ingredient is free from preservatives and accords with ECOCERT standards and is approved for use in China (www.solabia.com).

Indena Go In-Depth

Indena (stand T50) will present Centevita, a purified dry extract obtained from Centella asiatica, a perennial, polymorphous, creeping herbaceous plant belonging to the Apiaceae (Umbrelliferae) family. The extract is a food grade ingredient (solvent and contaminant), that only uses water and ethanol as solvents and is composed of almost 45% triterpenes, including madecassoside, and approximately 5.5% polyphenols and is Ecocert validated. It is therefore suitable both for nutricosmetics and green cosmetic formulations that require anti-inflammatory, antiageing, antioxidant and firming activity. The extract is also certified Kosher, Halal and GMP. The ingredient’s sustainable production process, beginning with the collection of Centella leaves in Madagascar, forms part of Indena’s commitment to creating and maintaining long-lasting relationships with local entities and populations.

The Centella asiatica purified dry extract production process, which starts from the Centella leaves collection in Madagascar, is part of the Indena commitment to create and maintain long lasting relationships with local entities and population.

The company will also present Bosexil; the Phytosome form of frankincense extract (a perfumed resin obtained from the Indian plant Boswellia serrata), which is rich in anti inflammatory and soothing active molecules, known as boswellic acids. A recent clinical study has underlined the soothing effect of the extract on sensitive skin as well as in more dermatologically severe conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Additional trials have indicated that the ingredient’s combination of DNA-protecting and anti-inflammatory properties may counteract photoaging and could be a new approach to counteract the inflammaging process (www.indena.com).

Taking Texture to the Market

Leading global chemical distributer, Univar Inc. (stand D20), has announced plans to intensify the focus of its personal care business on textures as part of the expansion of its business portfolio and technical capabilities. Philippe Villequey, personal care industry development manager, at EMEA explained: “Univar Personal Care’s offering has always been strong when it comes to textures. It is an important area of formulation because if a product’s texture is poor, it will not appeal to consumers. With new ingredients constantly being introduced to the market, customers can find it challenging to ensure a consistent and pleasing texture in their products. We have the product portfolio and technical formulation expertise to help our customers to overcome this obstacle and create textures that end-consumers will love.”

The company will be showcasing a number of exciting formulations at the stand’s sensory bar, which will demonstrate the range of its texture palette. Innovations on display will include a new silicone gum from XIAMETER (PMX 1502 FLUID) and new products from Dow Corning, including two elastomers that provide enhanced compatibility with organic ingredients (Dow Corning EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend and Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend). The innovation zone will feature Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend, which, compared with traditional silicone elastomers, provides enhanced formulation flexibility through its ability to incorporate high levels of water and/or glycerine while retaining a gel structure and the typical elastomer feel.

The stand will also showcase new products launched recently by Dow Personal Care, such as EcoSmooth Satin Conditioning Polymer and Ecosmooth Silk. The

MARCH/APRIL 2012

company’s dedicated personal care specialists will be on hand at in-cosmetics to demonstrate how Univar is able to simplify the complex textural issues common to the industry, as well as showcasing the company’s comprehensive range of personal care ingredients. Building on its global network of laboratories, technical expertise and shared best practice, Univar is able to offer its partners in the sector access to the latest products and innovative concepts from around the world (www.univar.com).

Eco Efficacy

IRB (stand X36) will be launching a new concept in plant stem cell ingredients: Powerful Stems. Its distinctive features include the characterization in a cell-line specific pattern of secondary metabolites and a guaranteed minimum amount of specific active substances. The titration of actives becomes the objective measure of the efficacy of plant stem cells and a reliable way of quantifying eco-sustainable benefits of this technology. This concept is the result of long and demanding R&D work that has established the biotechnological HTNTM platform as a viable and eco-friendly alternative source for the production of plant actives.

IRB will also introduce Buddleja davidii stems GTM, which is now available with a standardized content of Verbascoside — a potent secondary metabolite that can to protect the skin against UVA damage owing to a wide spectrum of characteristics that include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and chelating properties. Since 2011, Leontopodium alpinum stems GTM has featured a guaranteed minimum amount of leontopodic acid A, one of the natural protective substances that allow Edelweiss, a rare plant growing in the Alps, to survive its native harsh environment. Leontopodic acid A is a strong antioxidant phenylpropanoid — three times more efficient than vitamin C — the very small natural presence of which has only recently been isolated in the plant (www. irbtech.com).

BREAKTHROUGH COSMETICS

Fix A140, which combines the ultimate hold with fast drying for the first time.

Hairspray users worldwide are seek fast-drying products that can maintain a chosen style all day long. DSM’s (www.dsm.com) innovative new polymer enables rapid drying in combination with low tack — despite the formulation’s increased water content — and it’s hold properties have outperformed leading market benchmarks in professional hairdresser tests. This combination of fast drying and ultimate hold creates attractive new opportunities for product development and further insights into the ingredient will be presented at DSM’s innovation seminar.

Following last year’s successful launch of REGU-FADE, the company will present new consumer-relevant data on the deep hydration power of its key skincare ingredient, PENTAVITIN. Although millions of consumers worldwide are buying moisturizing products, various consumer surveys indicate that they often fail to meet expectations, particularly in how long they last. As a result, dry skin continues to be the primary unmet body skincare need worldwide — and PENTAVITIN, a 100% natural, plant-derived ingredient, addresses it. Owing to its unique affinity to corneocytes, PENTAVITIN ensures instant, deep hydration and generates a moisture reservoir that lasts for at least 72 hours, strengthening the epithelial barrier and creating sustainable soft and smooth skin.

DSM is also addressing the sun care theme and introducing its new ultimate UV protection concept, based on its leading UV filter brand, PARSOL, which boasts a long history of innovative and high-performing UVA and UVB filters. As a leading global supplier of UV filters, DSM offers a new approach to the ultimate UV protection for beach and day care products and claims that PARSOL offers unique benefits for consumers, as well as unmatched formulation know-how and technical support for customers. Jörg Richter, DSM’s senior director of global marketing in personal care, commented: “We are proud to showcase our latest developments in sun, hair and skincare products, which demonstrate our dedication to delivering innovations that truly make a difference to consumers.”

DSM (stand Q16) will launch a breakthrough hairspray polymer, TILAMAR

Aquabeautine® XL The Natural and Gentle Skin Refinisher A patented marine solution derived from “red caviar”, a gentle enzymatic alternative to AHAs proven to correct 6 signs of aging in vivo.

www.aquabiotechnology.com 2012 MARCH/APRIL

Stand No. N40 Presentation on 18th April, 10:30-11:00 Innovation Seminar Theatre 1 15

HAIR CARE

PuttingTressesto

the Test F

Jo Smewing, business development director at Stable Micro Systems, looks at an objective and nondestructive method that manufacturers can use to evaluate the effectiveness of hair care products.

A new study deploys analytical technolog y that enables the industry to substantiate ambitious marketing claims about shampoos and conditioners that promise to leave hair soft and manageable.

or many people,

care products on the physical

bending force (Figure 1). After ten

luxurious locks are

characteristics of hair by measuring

movement cycles for each hair

their crowning glory

the bending force of a hair bundle

bundle, the average bending

and a source of great

as an indicator of a hair sample’s

force was calculated. Tests were

pride and pleasure.

softness. Stable Micro Systems’

done on each hair sample at

Personal grooming is an area that

texture analyser TA.XTPlus was used

a controlled temperature and

appears to be fairly recession-

to determine the bending modulus

humidity and the researchers

proof; in fact, in 2010, the buoyant

of Caucasian dark brown hair,

looked into the effects of cosmetic

UK hair care industry reached £709

Oriental black hair and bleach-

treatments on changes in bending

million.1 Even when times are hard,

damaged hair samples, in addition

force after different shampoo

consumers want to look their best

to comparing results before and

treatments and relative

and often see personal toiletries

after the application of hair

humidity (RH) levels.

and cosmetics as affordable treats.

treatments.

Shampoos, conditioners and their commodity status and are increasingly being released under

To prepare the samples, tresses of

the effects of humidity on hair

luxury brand names, commanding

hair were gathered from each of

softness and tests revealed that

premium prices. However, amidst

the three hair types and divided

the effect of moisture levels varies

the flurry of advertising claims that

into two bundles — one to undergo

between hair types. Its greatest

promise salon-quality hair care, the

treatment, the second to be

effect was on commercially

efficacy of many products on the

used as a control. For the tests

bleached hair, which has a more

market remains uncertain.

themselves, the texture analyser

porous hair structure —and thus

was used in a modified three

higher water absorbency — as

The Look and Feel of Beauty

point bend mode. The hair bundle

a result of the bleaching process

was clamped at one end and

(Figure 2). Hair samples across the

Softness is generally held as a

the remaining length placed on

board became softer as humidity

sign of healthy, well-conditioned

two supports before the analyser

levels increased.

hair — but how is hair softness

probe descended vertically on

The second aspect of the

objectively determined? A recent

the sample, applying pressure

study looked into the effects of

study by T. Gao et al. set out to

to the central section of the hair

bleach oxidation and hair care

establish the impact of personal

bundle to determine its maximum

products on clean, virgin and

Figure 1: Determining the maximum bending force of hair.

16

A Soft Spot for Healthy Hair

Preparation and Testing

hair treatments have overcome

First, Gao and his team examined

Figure 2: The effect of moisture levels on different hair types.

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Quaternium-91. Of ten virgin

conditions, texture analysis was

dark brown hair samples, half

recognized as a suitable method

were treated with a commercial

for scientifically evaluating the

shampoo, which resulted in a

softening performance of hair care

15.7% drop in bending force. The

products. The results revealed that

other half, treated with the test

oxidation following hair bleaching,

shampoo, demonstrated a 19.2%

in addition to heightened

fall in bending force. These results

environmental moisture levels

showed the shampoo containing

owing to humidity, has a significant

Quaternium-91 clearly improved

effect on the measurable

hair softness.

bending force, particularly where damaged hair is concerned.

Conclusion

Manufacturers now have a means

Following tests to determine the

to truly substantiate the persuasive

bending force of hair samples

beauty claims that so appeal to

under different treatment

consumers. PHM

Figure 3: The effects of bleach oxidation and hair care products on clean, virgin and commercially bleached hair. commercially bleached hair by

to friction; as a result, it generates

comparing the bending force of

static electricity, meaning that

the hair samples before and after

severe hair surface damage

treatment. The virgin hair samples

is characterized by a greater

were immersed in a bleaching

prevalence of negatively charged

solution of 6% hydrogen peroxide

sites that affect the overall softness.

for 30 minutes, washed with tap

Quaternium-91 treatments carry

water, dried overnight and soaked

positively charged quaternized

in a hair conditioner containing

surfactants (quats) that remain

Quaternium-91 (derived from

on the hair via electrostatic

hydrogenated tallow products).

interactions. Positively charged

The key components of this hair-

when placed in a solution of water,

softening ingredient — di-alkyl

these ingredients are attracted

imidazoline quaternaries — have

to the negatively charged,

superior softening properties that

damaged protein sites on the

have been used for some time in

hair and this positive/negative

fabric softeners. Quaternium-91

interaction prevents them from

is now being applied to personal

being removed. On contact with

care applications in which softness

hair, they coat the fibres to reduce

is also of value. Analysis showed

static charges, improve shine and

that oxidation occurring during

protect it from future damage to

the bleaching process reduced

result in a smoother, softer feel to

softness and increased the

the hair. This is supported by the

average bending force of newly-

texture analysis measurements,

bleached hair by 7.5% — however,

which reveal that commercially

application of the conditioning

bleached hair showed the largest

treatment was associated with a

improvement in softness following

16% reduction of this force. These

conditioning treatment.

results demonstrate that bleaching

Finally, the researchers

decreases the softness of hair but,

compared the softening

by conditioning, this effect may be

effects of two

reversed and hair softness actually

shampoos, one of

improved.

which contained

In contrast, the bending force of commercially bleached hair samples was reduced by 27% after being treated with the conditioner, demonstrating that oxidation is more severe in hair that has been frequently bleached during a long period of time (Figure 3).

Regular bleaching dries out the hair, making it brittle and prone

2012 MARCH/APRIL

References

1. Mintel, “Shampoo, Conditioners and Treatments, UK, April 2011:” www.mintel.com.

For more information Jo Smewing Business Development Director Stable Micro Systems www.stablemicrosystems.com

17

Spring Shoots

HAIR CARE

The importance placed on scalp hair as a key component of beauty has resulted in the regulation and promotion of hair growth being a matter of huge importance to younger and middle-aged populations worldwide. Of the variety of problems associated with hair loss, maletype baldness, alopecia and telogen effluvium are just three of the most distressing examples. The regulation of hair growth depends on a host of complex factors of both intrinsic and extrinsic origin and, despite its potential impact on individuals, it is currently managed using methods that remain unsatisfactory. A recent study has harnessed traditional knowledge and pitted it against clinically accepted hair technolog y.

T

he simplest means of addressing the issue of hair loss is

continuous drug dependency

growth and providing benefits

to substitute and

that is required to minimize hair

such as improved hair condition,

camouflage lost

fall. As the search for newer and

reduced hair fall and prevention

hair through the use of wigs but,

more acceptable hair growth

of the premature greying of hair.

owing to their indiscretion, they

promoting agents continues, one

A previous study had confirmed

have a limited rate of acceptance

study has turned to traditional

that the use of a cream and oil

by sufferers. More effective and

medicinal knowledge for

based on the same active plant

less obvious, hair weaving and hair

alternative solutions.

ingredients increased the protein

transplantation exist as alternative

synthesis responsible for hair growth

for Dr JRK’s Siddha Research

through mRNA expression. This

and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd,

study went one step further; the

investigates the claims made

extracts were individually prepared

by the ancient Indian medical

in coconut oil in accordance with

practice, the Siddha system of

traditional Siddha methods and

medicine, for the unique hair

mixed to obtain a poly herbal oil.

growth promoting properties of

This oil was subsequently included

several medicinal plants. The effect

as a constituent active ingredient in

modes of managing the problem.

of a study gel containing extracts

a hair gel preparation and studied

This efficacy, however, comes at

from these plants was examined

for its hair growth promoting effects.

a financial cost which is all too

and compared in its effectiveness

often too high for the average

with a 2% Minodixil formulation in

The Experiment

person to bear. Among the known

an experimental animal model.

Wister rats of both sexes were used

Should rapidity of growth come at the price of potential allergic reactions and drug dependency?

hair growth promoting agents,

18

The study in question, conducted

Extracts from Phyllanthus

for the non-invasive, non-sacrificial

Minoxidil-based preparations are

emblica, Bergamiia koenigii,

study that received approval

supported by reliable scientific

Lawsonia alba, Indigo tinctoria

from an ethical committee. The

evidence and clinical trials, but

and Eclipta prostrate have long

animals, which were divided into

their performance is nevertheless

been associated in the Siddha

four groups of six, were situated in a

hindered by side-effects and the

system with promoting hair

rat house that was set to 24–25 °C,

MARCH/APRIL 2012

provided with food and water ad

completion time in comparison

though rapidly grown, was thin

libitum and received an equal

with the control, suggesting that

and highly irregular. In addition

portion of the day/night cycle.

the plant extracts worked to

to this difference in quality, the

The hair of the dorsal portion of

increase the speed of hair growth

side-effects associated with the

each animal was removed with a

in the subjects.

continued use of Minoxidil must

standard depilatory cream and

be considered; should rapidity

the four groups were treated as

The Results

of growth come at the price of

follows; the first with a placebo

The results of this study allow

potential allergic reactions and

gel, the second with the study

several interesting conclusions to

drug dependency?

formulation, the third with the

be drawn. Most obviously, they

2% Minoxidil formulation and

reveal that the study formulation

attributed by the scientists

the fourth served as a control.

gel has a positive effect on

involved to hair root enhancement

The relevant test materials were

hair growth that is comparable

brought about by the study

applied to each group once daily

with a 2% Minoxidil application.

formulation, a theory supported

for a 30 day period.

Although in comparison the

by the aforementioned previous

herbal formulation appears to

study. The fact that the plant

was observed in all animals. Hair

have a limited effect, it may

extracts contained in the poly

growth initiation time (HGIT), which

actually exhibit a similar activity

herbal gel have a long history of

pertains to new hair growth in the

that is overlooked in the murine

use in various healthcare practices

depilated area that is identical to

model, providing as it does only

means it can be assumed that

the rest of the hair on the body,

qualitative indications of efficacy.

they may be used safely and

and hair growth completion

Furthermore, a difference was

effectively in managing hair fall

time (HGCT) were also recorded.

recorded between the quality of

problems. Although it remains for

Results revealed that the poly

the hair grown in the two groups;

further studies to be undertaken,

herbal gel reduced HGCT by

the texture of the hair grown

these results may mean that future

30%, compared with the 53%

after treatment with the study

responses to hair loss may be

reduction in time brought about

formulation was soft, silky and

effective, economically viable

by the Minoxidil formulation. The

shiny in comparison with that in

and avoid the pitfalls of drug

placebo did not effect hair growth

the Minoxidil treated group which,

reliance. PHM

The pattern of hair growth

2012 MARCH/APRIL

The recorded effects are

Authors

• J.R. Krishnamoorthy, Dr JRK’s Siddha Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India • R. Sumithira, Department of Microbiology, Dr MGR-Janaki College of Arts and Science, Chennai, India • S. Gokulshankar, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia • M.S. Ranjith, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia • S. Ranganathan, Dr JRK’s Siddha Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India • B.K. Mohanty, Pharmacology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia

For more information Dr S. Gokulshankar Faculty of Medicine AIMST University gokkavi@gmail.com

This article is based on a paper originally published in the Journal of Applied Cosmetology 28(4), 147–151 (2010).

19

ANTIAGEING

Turning the tide OF Ageing

E

The ocean tidal zone is an extreme environment in which only a select few species are able to survive and flourish. One of these is Porphyridium sp. red microalga — and it took more than 20 years of research (led

by Professor Shoshana Arad of Ben Gurion University) to uncover the secret of its survival.

ventually, it was

patented cultivation process

conducted on algae cells in

different interactions within the

revealed that

of Porphyridium sp. for the

their proliferation stage showed

molecule, which accounts for its

the microalga’s

production of Alguard — a

that although they could be

stability in changing conditions.

cells emit a

purified form of the protective

damaged when exposed to high

Thus, its composition and rheology

polysaccharide to

exo-polysaccharide.

light intensity, this was prevented

are very stable at a range of

by the external addition of the

temperatures (up to 1600 °C), pH

protective polysaccharide,

(2–9) and salinities.

their immediate surroundings, creating a unique protective environment that allows it to flourish. These environmental

Unique Biophysical Properties During their proliferation

imitating its natural production by the resting cells. This indicated that

Sustainable Growth

fluctuations are also inflicted

stage, algae cells undergo rapid

the algae survival mechanism is

on human skin and lead

duplication and do not produce

achieved through the work of the

polysaccharide (through a

to ageing and loss of

the polysaccharide; only in their

polysaccharide, rather than being

patented cultivation system

vitality; to combat this, the

resting phase do they release it

linked directly to the algae cells.

of Porphyridium sp.) to benefit

polysaccharide’s natural

into their surroundings to create

protective effect on algae

an active shield. This protective

to its unique and complex

growth in its initial stages, the

is being mimicked to benefit

environment helps to counter

structure, which is still only

algae are cultivated in a strictly

skincare. After establishing

the extreme environmental

partially known. It is a large

controlled indoor environment of

its structure and bio-physical

changes typical to its habitat:

hydrogel hetero-polymer with

artificial sea water that contains

properties, in addition to its

salinity shifts, temperature flux,

a molecular mass of 3–5 x 106

only minerals and nutrients. As

positive effects on the skin,

exposure to strong light and UV

Da. Its structure is composed of

production of the polysaccharide,

Professor Arad developed a

irradiation intensity. An experiment

70–80% natural sugars (such as

rather than algae growth, is the

xylose, glucose and galactose),

aim of this process, the algae

20% bioactive groups (mainly

are not harvested at this stage

sulfated monosaccharides, plus

but moved outside to begin

glucoronic acid) and 5% integral

a stationary growth phase in

glycoprotein, which is non-

specially designed sleeves that

covalently bound to the molecule.

are exposed to the unique

Rheological studies indicate

climate conditions. The changing

that the polysaccharide has a

temperatures and intense light

folded, flexible helical structure

induce the algae to utilize

and exhibits high viscosity at low

nutrients and minerals to produce

concentrations, which is important

the protective polysaccharide

in creating a viscous environment

shield.

Algae growth utilizes carbon dioxide as part of the polysaccharide production and produces oxygen, which is released into the environment

This protective role is attributed

in the cell proximities and enabling

cosmetic applications. For robust

As they grow, the algae turn

it to be highly active in very low

a vivid red colour, although it is

concentrations.

the viscosity of the water that

It is also characterized by

20

Frutarom utilizes this

is monitored rather than the

a delicate balance between

rate of growth itself. The point of

negatively and positively

maximal viscosity indicates that

charged active groups, which,

the polysaccharide production

in combination with its flexible

has reached the desired level

structure, allows the molecule

and it is physically separated from

to remain organized when

the water in a natural purification

smeared or pressed onto a

process. These processes are

surface. This is a contrast with

natural, environmentally friendly

other polysaccharides, which

and do not involve the addition

will typically become loose

of any reagents or exploit natural

and disorganized under these

resources. On the contrary, algae

conditions. The complex,

growth utilizes carbon dioxide as

balanced structure results in

part of polysaccharide production

MARCH/APRIL 2012

and produces oxygen, which is

long-term protective effects and

released into the environment.

immediate visible lifting effects.

The final product is Alguard, a

The former are attributed to the

water-soluble, white/beige viscous

creation of an organized mesh

hydrogel with a silky texture. The

when the ingredient is smeared on

purification process separates it

the skin, which offers protection

from the surrounding water, which

from the following: irritants and

guarantees that it contains only

oxidative damage that lead

the polysaccharide and allows

to a process of inflammation

reduction of skin roughness. When

soluble polysaccharide, resulted in

the biological mimicking of the

and accelerate skin ageing;

80 µL of 5% Alguard was applied

an easy to handle ingredient that,

active shield for skin protection

UVB radiation damage and

to the crow’s feet of 10 women,

owing to its unique properties,

applications. Some biomass

the accumulation of bacteria.

a 20% decrease in wrinkle length

can be combined in almost all

products claim to contain 40–50%

An example of this effect was

and depth and a 24% reduction

formulations. This combination of

polysaccharide in their dry mass;

seen when culture cells were

in skin roughness was observed

an anclient algal survival secret,

however, this will not typically

exposed to the strong abrasive

as early as 30 minutes after

undeniable effects, sustainable

be as water-soluble as Alguard

agent, FeSO4; whereas this would

application. The effect remained

growth and an ecologically

and will be without the unique

usually result in cell damage, cells

stable for at least 60 minutes

sound production process make

structure and qualities that make

protected by Alguard remained

(Figure 1).

Alguard a truly unprecedented

it easy to handle and allow it

viable and intact.

to be combined in almost all

From the first application,

Before

To conclude, after extensive

Alguard claims to promote

properties — naturally evolved to

processes.

a visible lifting of the skin by

protect the algae from extreme

homogenously adhering to

environmental changes — were

its surface so that, as water

shown to confer similar protection

evaporates, the association

against different aggressors,

protective role in nature, Alguard

between polysaccharide chains

on the human skin. A unique

has beneficial effects on the

is increased, resulting in a lifting

production process, developed

In a similar manner to its

human skin, possessing both

A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1

development. PHM

research Alguard’s unique

formulations and production

Cosmetic Applications

After 30 minutes

Figure 1: The effects of Alguard on crow’s feet.

of fine lines and wrinkles and a 07.09.2010 15:23 Uhr Seite 3to obtain this protective, water-

For more information Anat Stern Product Manager Cosmetic Ingredients Frutarom astern@frutarom.com www.frutarom.com

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com 2012 MARCH/APRIL

21

FORMULATION

of power mother nature The

Oleosomes are naturally occurring microspheres of plant seed oils and vitamin E that function as powerful, clinically mild emulsifiers and proven delivery systems of actives. They can also be leveraged to boost SPF values in traditional (organic) daily wear skin products and to reduce whitening and provide water-resistant benefits in natural mineral sunscreens.

P

lants have evolved

supplier Botaneco has

ionic emulsifiers. Furthermore,

oleosomes

developed and patented a

they have been shown to

throughout

large-scale manufacturing

exhibit transient emulsification.

millions of years as

process, which has recently

This unique attribute results

structures to store

been certified as organic

in formulations that are

and protect the energy source

by the USDA NOP, to isolate

exceptionally mild on the skin — a

(namely vegetable oil) that

oleosomes from a variety of

stark contrast with low molecular

drives the germination process.

seeds.

weight synthetic non-ionic emulsifiers, which can penetrate

They are found naturally in all oil-bearing seeds, including oilseeds (such as safflower

Powerfully Mild As a result of their unique

the skin and cause TEWL. These outstanding

and sunflower) and nuts

structure and oleosin protein

emulsification benefits can

(almonds, for example). These

coat, oleosomes function as

be leveraged in moisturizers,

microspheres are spheres

broad HLB natural emulsifiers

cleansers and even mineral

of 1–3 µm and consist of an

and can be used to prepare

sunscreens, where (incorporating

inner core of triglycerides

virtually any type of personal

non-nano ZnO and TiO2)

and antioxidant vitamin E,

care emulsion. Their operational

oleosomes aid the dispersion of

surrounded by a monolayer of

HLB typically ranges from 5–15,

pigment to reduce whitening on

phospholipids and encased

with an optimum of 8–13. The

the skin, in addition to providing

in an oleosin protein coat.

most powerful grade, obtained

an intrinsic water-resistant film

Oleosins are 25 kDa proteins

from safflower seeds, is capable

without requiring film formers or

that include both hydrophilic

of emulsifying at a ratio of 1:3,

polymers. For example, an SPF50+

and hydrophobic domains

allowing formulators to make

formula with oleosomes (018-111)

and lend extraordinary

emulsions using a 5% Oleosome

has passed 80 minute water-

emulsification ability to these

ingredient for a total oil phase

resistance in vivo and is classified

structures. Natural ingredients

of 20%, with no synthetic non-

as broad spectrum.

22

MARCH/APRIL 2012

INGREDIENTS

Wt %

PHASE A Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes + water (Hydresia SF2, Botaneco)*

11.50

Ethyhexyl methoxycinnamate (Uvinul MC8o, BASF)

2.00

Fragrance

0.50 protection of oil actives from

PHASE B C12-25 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN, Innospec Active Chemicals, LLC) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, DSM)

5.00 0.50

are natural microspheres from

of oil actives into the skin and

plant seeds, isolated according

prolonging the on-skin residence

to a patented USDA organic

time of fragrances or essential oils.

manufacturing process, which

Oleosomes can also be

PHASE C Di water

qs

Preservative

qs

Ammonium acyloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)

1.10

*Hydresia PE can be used at 10% 1. Mix phase A under a propeller mixer for 20 minutes at 400 rpm.

2. Premix phase B, heat to 40 °C and slowly add to phase A. 3. Add phase C in order of appearance.

4. Slowly add water and increase speed to 600–700 rpm.

5. Add preservative and adjust pH if needed to 5.5–6.0.

6. Finish with Aristoflex AVC, mix for 20 minutes or until uniform.

Figure 1: A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer.

function as powerful, clinically

of traditional daily wear

mild emulsifiers and proven

products with enhanced UV

delivery systems of actives that

protection to provide dramatic

can also boost SPF values. Several

SPF-boosting advantages.

grades from safflower seeds

Botaneco has discovered that

and almond nuts, including a

when UVB chromophores (such

USDA NOP organic version, are

as octylmethoxycinnamate

available from Botaneco or its

OMC or octocrylene) are

distribution partners. PHM

loaded inside oleosomes and physically separated from UVA chromophores (for example Avobenzone), formulators can low concentrations of sunscreen.

locked within their spherical

A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer

structures, they have been

(Figure 1) contains only 2% OMC

structures that can provide oil-

proven to absorb and protect

and 0.5% Avobenzone and has

soluble actives with antioxidant

actives such as retinol, UVB

had its efficacy confirmed in a 20

protection. Naturally containing

chromophores and fragrances

person FDA Static SPF in vivo test,

approximately 60 mg–100 g of

or essential oils. Possible delivery

in addition to a 5 person COLIPA

vitamin E (alpha Tocopherol)

system applications include the

SPF in vivo study.

Oleosomes are natural

2012 MARCH/APRIL

have been demonstrated to

leveraged in the formulation

achieve very high SPF values with

Proven Power

To summarize, oleosomes

degradation, the gradual release

Authors

Tony Abboud, Director of Sales and Marketing Dr Jack Guth VP of R&D

For more information

Tony Abboud, Director of Sales and Marketing Botaneco Corp. abboudt@botaneco.ca www.botanecocorp.com

23

FORMULATION

SENSORY Sensations For all its positive connotations, the term ‘natural’ does not always resonate ‘luxury’ in the minds of consumers. Indeed, in the past, it has been associated with a movement away from the artificial luxuriousness — which may come at an ethical, environmental and even physical price — of the cosmetics industry.

P

erhaps the

possibility of diferentiating

a gentle feel means it is ideal for

rehydration of damaged, dry,

purveyors of

themselves further from the

hypoallergenic products. Easily

mature skin. Unlike many natural

natural products

competition and winning over

incorporated into formulations,

solutions, ingredients in this range

have expended

unconvinced consumers.

the liquid ingredient targets

combine different functions to

the typical silicone application

provide ease of use to personal

so much of their

Combining “natural origins

marketing and formulation

with advanced sensory effects“

areas of cleansing and rinse-

care manufacturers and fall

energy on convincing

is Clariant’s stated remit in its

off applications (including hair

into two categories; Vitipure

consumers of their competitive

new Touch of Nature range of

shampoos and treatments)

Feeling for skincare cosmetics

efficicay and unrivalled ethical

ingredients for skin, body and hair

and can replace standard

and Vitipure Sensation, a refined

credentials that they have

care formulations. The result of

conditioning ingredients

grade for colour cosmetics.

sometimes forgotten that

a collaboration with biorefinery

such as cationic polymers

Tackling the specific needs of

the cosmetic industry is also

product manufacturer KitoZyme,

(polyquaternium) and quaternary

sensitive, dry or mature skin, their

driven by indulgence. And

the ingredients comprise three

ammonium compounds (genamin

potential applications encompass

in hard financial times, the

product lines — Vitipure, Velsan

BTLF — behentrimonium chloride).

everything from baby care to age

idea of an affordable treat

and Zenvivo — which offer

It boasts foam-boosting properties

repair formulations and include

may prove a bigger draw

vegetal alternatives that won’t

and so helps to promote a

fluids, creams and lotions for body

than ever to consumers who

let the sensory side down. The

pleasant, creamy foam for

and face. Potential market sectors

have had to relinquish some

range sets a new benchmark

facial and body washes and is

they can address include day,

of life’s other luxuries. This was

for the production of vegetal

suitable for ‘caring’ and leave-

night, eye, sun and aftershave

attested to by Fabio Rosello,

Chitosan, Chitin-Glucan and their

on applications such as body

care — in addition to the skin

head of the Italian Cosmetics

derivatives. Sourced by selected

lotions, sun care, make-up and

whitening innovations that are

Industry Association, who

suppliers that meet purity, quality

deodorants/antiperspirants, where

favoured by the Asian market.

highlighted the industry’s

and traceability requirements,

it enhances the spreading of the

flying in the face of potential

the products are created from

formulation, wets the pigments or

market’s only vegetal-based

economic meltdown to actually

fully renewable, non-GMO and

reduces the tackiness to enhance

chitosan, Zenvivo, which avoids

increase turnover, attributing

traceable fungi and comply with

the overall sensory feel.

the disadvantages of animal-

it to the status of cosmetics

GMP (FDA and EMEA), HACCP and

as an essential comfort that

ISO9001: 2008.

consumers are “unwilling to do without.“ Natural and organic products

based chitosan, is non-allergenic,

Pure Class Next in line is Vitipure, billed as

Softly Softly Velsan Soft provides a natural,

Clariant also boast the

highly reproducible and safe and is available in two grades

a solution for complete skin repair

with different molecular weights.

and protection. Its ingredients

Zenvivo Protect is a low molecular

are still the fastest growing

vegetal replacement for

stimulate key cells in the immune

grade for enhanced antimicrobial

market sector and seem a sure

silicones that sacrifices neither

system, restoring the skin barrier

properties, from malodor

fire recipe for success — but, as

effectiveness nor aesthetics.

and effecting a long-term

reduction in mouthwashes to

is the case with any mega trend,

It boosts wetting and foaming

rebuilding and restructuring of the

deodorant efficacy and the

there will come a saturation

properties to achieve a stable,

skin cells. Some of the potential

preservation of cosmetic products,

point. If formulations can imbue

creamy foam with a luxurious feel;

benefits are wrinkle reduction,

which can be used across the

this platform with a sense of

its combination of moisturizing

enhanced skin elasticity and

complete spectrum of skin and

extravagence, they open the

and conditioning benefits with

firmness and a rebalancing and

hair care applications. Zenvivo

24

MARCH/APRIL 2012

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FORMULATION

Aqua is a high molecular grade

and costs of future product

that is suitable as a film former in

development. By attaining ISO

hair styling, sun care or decorative

22716, Clariant’s processes also

cosmetics or as a conditioning

fulfill European guidelines for

agent for leave-on and rinse-off

cosmetics production. Ralf Zerrer,

skin and hair care formulations.

head of strategic marketing

Mauro Bergamasco, head of

of industrial and consumer

global marketing of industrial

specialties, described the

and consumer specialties at

company as “proud“ of the

Clariant, commented on the

accomplishment and claimed

range of offerings: “We are

that it signifies ”a further milestone

delighted to offer the personal

in our strategy for the personal

care market a unique range of

care segment.” He went to

natural-based ingredients that

on argue that it represents

combine moisturizing, repairing

“more than just an indication of

and protecting effects with an

process quality” and will allow

extraordinarily gentle feel for

the company to become a

skin and hair. Inspired by nature,

stronger link in the value chain

our customers will be able to

of customers, who “can rely on

fulfill consumers’ desire for purity,

Clariant to offer the transparency

effectiveness and luxury, to set

and consistency they need to

themselves apart in the personal

increase their speed to market

care industry.”

for existing and new cosmetics formulations.“

GOING THE EXTRA MILE On a related note, Clariant has

Mauro Bergamasco, head of global marketing for industrial

recently “gone the extra mile“ for

and consumer specialties,

its cosmetics industry customers

explained that Clariant’s

by achieving global ISO 22716

“portfolio of cosmetics ingredients

Cosmetics Good Manufacturing

embraces the sector’s efficiency,

Practice (GMP) certification for

environmental and safety

its global management system.

challenges and our formulation

Reinforcing Clariant’s ambition

expertise can add real value

to continue as a leading partner

to the creation of exciting and

for the personal care industry,

sustainable innovations for the

this certification guarantees

consumer market.”

globally consistent products and

Implementing a system to

processes that will support more

guarantee globally harmonized

efficient product development

products and processes for the

by customers. The reference

personal care industry is a key

standard is primarily held by

element of Clariant’s strategic

cosmetics producers and ensures

repositioning, which also

deliverance of the highest

includes bolt-on acquisitions and

quality products by the sector.

partnerships with leading industry

Achieving it has not been a walk

players such as KitoZyme and

in the park for Clariant: it has

Oberhausen Technology Center.

taken 10 months and the efforts

Using all the tools at its disposal,

of hundreds of employees to

the company is determined to

initiate the Cosmetics GMP across

help its customers to provide

the business. Standardization

consumers with products that

of production, quality control

combine luxury with natural

and warehouse and logistic

credentials. PHM

procedures mean customers can be confident of globally consisitant processes, services, product quality and availability at a local level.

Customers will benefit from a more transparent relationship to support their global production and reduce the complexity

26

For more information

Dominik Schneider Media Relations Clariant International Ltd +41 6146 953 62 dominiks.schneider@clariant.com

MARCH/APRIL 2012

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Register online now for FREE at

www.vitafoods.eu.com/pureh Supported by

2012 MARCH/APRIL

Organised by

Portfolio includes

27

Skincare

at the The Light end of the Tunnel For years, acne sufferers struggling to control outbreaks have turned to a wide range of treatments for help — from antibiotics and topical creams to contraceptive pills and expensive face washes. Here Dr Sam Robson, who has been working with patients suffering with acne for more than 15 years, explains the advantages of a new approach.

M

any of my

time, can be used at home.

improvement in her skin and

patients

Lustre is a small, rechargeable

on completion of treatment

have “tried

product with slim, flexible heads

her skin is smoother, more even

everything”

that are gently attached to the

in texture and with reduced

to help their

skin to directly target problem

breakouts. Her previously ‘angry’

skin but only found temporary

areas. The device is portable

looking skin is now calmer and

relief. They come to my clinic

and treatment is delivered while

the improvement is clear to

hoping to find a more long-term

the product is worn, giving

see in before and after photos.

solution to help to manage their

users the freedom to get on

In addition, the success of the

skin problems. I’ve been using

with everyday life. For the best

treatment has transformed

blue light to treat acne for many

results, we encourage patients

Helen’s self-confidence and selfesteem. She is going to continue

It’s a proven technology and championed by leading dermatologists and physicists for its capacity to destroy acne-causing bacteria.

to use Lustre Pure Light to control

Author

Dr Sam Robson, MBChB, MRCGP Member of the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors.

Temple Aesthetics is based in Aberdeen.

For more information

Gary Conroy Sales and Marketing Director Ambicare Health gary.conroy@ambicarehealth.com www.lustrepurelight.com

her acne and describes finally having clearer skin as “a dream come true.”

Helen’s story is typical of many young women with acne.

I’m convinced of the efficacy of blue light treatment and being able to use it at home is of huge benefit to patients.

years; it’s a proven technology

to use the device for about half

Not only has this product and

and championed by leading

an hour a day and, because

technology registered great

dermatologists and physicists for

it’s designed to work alongside

success, it also taps into the

its capacity to destroy acne-

existing acne therapies, patients

concerns that many acne

causing bacteria.

can continue to use favourite

sufferers have about treatment

products if they want to or, if

side-effects. Ambicare Health

for a consultation and begin

necessary, come to the clinic for

recently conducted research

a 16 week course of blue light

additional treatments on a less

among young women who

treatment in the clinic. Although

regular basis.

have acne and two thirds

Typically, patients will come

undeniably effective, the

To be able to apply clinically

of those polled cited this

commitment to making twice

proven blue light technology

as a worry. A growing

weekly clinic visits is an issue for

in an at-home device is a

number of our patients

busy acne sufferers. An increasing

significant breakthrough in the

at Temple Aesthetics

number of women in their 20s and

treatment of acne — and we’re

have similar concerns

30s are suffering from acne and

experiencing fantastic results

about the adverse

the patients I’ve treated in that

already. One patient, Helen,

side-effects of some

age bracket are almost always

came to Temple Aesthetics

treatments, in addition

short of time — juggling stressful

having suffered from acne

to the potential long-

jobs and family commitments.

for 12 years and told me that

term risks associated

They want to find a way to control

her skin problems made her

with constant use of

their acne but coming to the

feel “ugly, depressed, lacking

certain medications.

clinic for an hour in the middle of

confidence and self-conscious.”

Lustre addresses this issue

their day just isn’t practical.

During the previous decade,

by offering a completely

Helen had tried a huge range of

safe solution for acne. For

Ambicare Health launched

treatments but nothing worked.

me, it’s yet another reason

Lustre Pure Light, a blue light

After only five treatments with

to recommend that patients

treatment which, for the first

blue light, she noticed an

try the device. PHM

About 3 months ago,

28

MARCH/APRIL 2012

SKINCARE

From

BOTOXto

NO-TOX

The happy circumstance of increasing life expectancy has given rise to a growing pool of people that are seeking new ways to carry their health, youth and vitality with them into their later years. And, from antiageing creams to botox, products and treatments that claim to prevent the outward signs of ageing are a key part of this effort.

Renowned Harley Street clinician Dr Dapeng Zhang explains the benefits of a more natural approach.

30

MARCH/APRIL 2012

U

nfortunately, the signs aren’t all good;

FROM CAUSE TO EFFECT Increasingly sought after

collagen depletion and elastin breakdown to prevent sagging, in addition to stimulating

news reports

in recent years as one of the

cellular growth to regenerate

frequently

best natural alternatives to

firm skin cells and provide a

reveal that many of these

conventional antiageing

antiageing solutions are inferior,

treatments, beauty acupuncture

fail to perform and may even

addresses both the causes and

cause unwelcome side-effects.

effects of premature ageing and

One of the most publicized

provides a much more profound

of available treatments is

and long-lasting outcome. The

formulated from botulism

process involves analysing and

bacteria and injected into

‘charting’ the subject’s face

the skin to paralyse the nerves

before acupuncture needles

beneath: botox. The reduction

are applied to specific points

of the appearance of fine lines

and areas, the effect of which

that it delivers lasts for a few

is to stimulate the body’s ability

months, but its financial cost

to heal itself by enhancing

of £200 –£300 is apparently

blood and lymph flow. After

not the only price to be paid.

comprehensive detailing of

A number of recipients have

a patient’s health history,

reported a range of worrying

shiatsu and facial massage

tightening effect. Furthermore,

side-effects; drooping eyelids,

are also administered as part

customers will notice results

muscle weakness or spasms

of treatment. In addition,

after just one session. Used in

and sweating have been

reflexology is employed owing

the treatment of arthritis since

associated with this potent

to its benefits as a whole-body

the 1920s, gold also reduces

neurotoxin — and its long-

treatment that addresses

skin and body inflammation,

term effects are still largely

underlying health issues and,

slowing melanin secretion and

unknown. Worryingly, scientists

as a consequence, any skin

reducing age spots.

have recently cast doubt

problems that reflect them.

on practitioners’ traditional,

Treatment with acupuncture

Treatment with acupuncture accelerates the natural drainage of toxins, increasing the surge of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, escalating collagen production and strengthening elastin fibres.

Hailed as one of the best natural alternatives to Botox,

reassuring belief that botox

accelerates the natural

cosmetic acupuncture

does not cross the blood/brain

drainage of toxins, increasing

has already attracted the

barrier. If that weren’t enough

the surge of oxygen and

attention of a number of

motivation for consumers to

nutrients to the skin, escalating

high-profile individuals who

seek an alternative, the FDA has

collagen production and

wish to maintain or improve

also reported fatalities linked to

strengthening elastin fibres.

an image that is of paramount

the injections.

The overall anti-inflammatory

importance to their careers. It

response of the skin is calmed

has inspired loyalty in a range

in addition!) to antiageing

to reduce puffiness in the eye

of customers who, having

creams could well be looking

area and stimulate facial

experienced its benefits, enjoy

for a solution in the wrong

muscles, increasing tone and

an overall improvement in

place; priced anywhere

suppleness. By addressing

health and well-being that is

between £16–£220, these

the causes, as opposed to

not only effective but, most

miracle pots that claim to hold

merely the visible results, of

importantly, safe.

the key to youthful skin often

premature ageing, beauty

only result in a barely visible

acupuncture works to prevent

acupuncture, my extensive

10% line reduction. At least we

the formation of new wrinkles

study of traditional Chinese

know price isn’t everything —

and minimize existing lines by

medicine has allowed me to

numerous consumer reports

enhancing the skin’s innate

successfully treat patients for

have indicated that cheaper

ability to regenerate a plumper,

a variety of health concerns,

moisturizing creams tend to

smoother, more radiant and

including multiple sclerosis (MS),

be as successful as their more

rejuvenated face.

cancer, infertility and arthritis.

Those who turn instead (or

expensive counterparts. But consumers need not lose heart, there is good news: alternative

PHM

THE MIDAS TOUCH At my clinic on Harley Street,

natural and cost-effective

I offer a luxurious treatment

ways to prevent premature

using 24 carat pure gold

ageing are becoming more

needles. The considerable

readily available — and beauty

advantages of gold principally

acupuncture is among them.

relate to its ability to slow

2012 MARCH/APRIL

In addition to beauty

For more information

Dr Dapeng Zhang Tel. +44 7766 495 158 dapeng@dapengclinic.com www.dapengclinic.com

31

INDUSTRY TRENDS

Feeding

Cosmetic

Trends

If one looks at consumers’ expectations of modern cosmetics, it is possible to identify a demand for both tradition and innovation — and the perfect approach to meeting these is the combination of nature and science. Natural ingredients, particularly botanical extracts, arouse feelings of reassurance and comfort and, in combination with scientific research and delivery methods, promote and protect beauty. Three plant categories in particular are worth investigating for their interesting ingredients: ‘super fruits,’ ‘super vegetables’ and healthy grains.

A Vital Boost

a singular case: Açai berries are

fruits appear to impart a

Antioxidant Claim

Super fruits are a significant

also used as food supplements

general feeling of well-being

Reactive oxygen species

megatrend in the health and

and are finding a place in

— for example, many people

(ROS) and free radicals are

beauty industry and form part

toiletries as a result of their high

find a morning shower with

continuously formed in our

of a more general movement

levels of the powerful group of

a fruit-scented shower gel

bodies in several metabolic

towards using traditional food

antioxidants, anthocyanidins

an enjoyable, energizing

pathways, including electron

components as cosmetic

(Table I).

way to start the day, even

transport chains and active

before breakfast. Although

phagocytosis. Normally,

ingredients. They are even

It is not just their powerful

recommended as food

components that make these

pomegranate, cranberry and

the oxidative damage to

supplements and nutraceuticals;

fruits a popular ingredient in

açai may be found in numerous

macromolecules such as

cranberry, for example, is widely

cosmetic formulations; thanks

cosmetic products, there are still

DNA, proteins and lipids is

used to tackle urinary disorders

to their traditional use and

more super fruits that have yet to

prevented by a series of specially

and, owing to its antioxidant

familiarity in food supplements

be discovered.

adapted enzyme systems (for

properties, is increasingly found

and juices, consumers both

instance superoxide dismutase,

in cosmetic products. This is not

trust and enjoy them. Moreover,

glutathione peroxidase and catalase) and several waterand lipid-soluble non-protein

Product Code

Product Name

ABTS

compounds (for example

139680

Actipone A mla (Amalki) Fruit GW

++++

vitamin C, tocopherols and

399985

Actipone Aronia GW

++

381255

Actipone Black Raspberry GW

++

399977

Actipone Blackcurrent GW

++

399882

Actipone Blueberry GW

++

399976

Actipone Camu Camu GW

++++

398769

Actipone Cranburry GW

++

399979

Actipone Elderberry GW

+++

399924

Actipone Goji Berry GW

+

139785

Actipone Noni (Ashyuka) Fruit GW

++

843441

Actipone Pomegranate GW

+++

382411

Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW

++

399978

Actipone Sea Buckthorn GW

+++

glutathione). However, if this wellbalanced system is disturbed by external or internal stress, ROS formation will exceed the antioxidant capacity of the biological system and result in oxidative stress. Oxidative damage to biomolecules is known to be a major contributor to ageing and a diverse range of pathological diseases.

Table I: Antioxidant capacity of superfruits.

32

Efficient range of concentration + 1% +++ 0.1% ++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%

Measuring Antioxidant Activity In this case, antioxidant activity was measured using the ABTS assay, which is based on the reduction of the relatively stable blue/green 2,2‘-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical cation, prepared through

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Product Code

Product Name

ABTS

364577

Actipone Artichoke GW

+++

373379

Actipone Spinach GW

++

374981

Actipone Asparagus GW

++

373375

Actipone Beetroot GW

+

374982

Actipone Zucchini GW

+

373439

Actipone Broccoli GW

+

359061

Actipone Pumpkin GW

+ Efficient range of concentration + 1% +++ 0.1% ++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%

Table II: Antioxidant capacity of vegetable extracts

AOX Capacity (%)

AOX capacity [%] 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0

always been an important

the belief that it promoted long

part of mankind’s daily diet;

life led to the Emperor banning

their consumption dates from

anyone but his favourites from

the earliest known civilizations.

eating it, earning it the name of

Amaranth was a staple grain

‘forbidden rice.’ This confidence

of the Aztec population,

in its health benefits is now

whereas quinoa was of

being supported by scientific

symbolic importance to the

investigation.

Inca civilization, but the advent

These are but a few of the fruits,

of colonization in the Americas

vegetables and grains that are

and the industrial revolution

recognized for their nutritional

consigned these ingredients

value and beneficial components

All antioxidant data in this presentation are mean values of at least two

to 500 years of obscurity.

and are gaining greater

experiments. This antioxidant data is the result of an ABTS assay.

Fortunately, the rise of the health

importance in the cosmetics

and wellness trend in recent years

market. As increased consumer

has triggered the rediscovery of

awareness and demand

these nutritious grains.

encourages companies to further

0.10%

0.50%

1.00%

Antioxidant concentrations (%)

Figure 1: The antioxidant capacity of black rice. the reaction of ABTS with

should it be merely something we

potassium persulfate (K 2 O 8 S2).

need to survive on a daily basis,

quinoa, amaranth and spelt

of familiar and exotic foods, the

Antioxidants convert this into a

but a means of both mental and

are termed ‘super grains’ by

cosmetic grocery basket is only

colourless product; the degree of

physical stress relief, enjoyment

nutritionists. Not only do they

set to expand. PHM

decolourization therefore reflects

and relaxation. This is not solely

constitute our body’s best energy

the amount of ABTS radical

owing to the comforting effects

source but are renowned for their

cation that has been scavenged

of these foodstuffs; ‘super

health benefits and known for

and can be determined

vegetables’ contain the healthy

their nourishing, regenerating

spectrophotometrically.2

ingredients that are also found

and toning properties.

in super fruits. The skincare

Symbolizing health and nature

Slow Living

market is also feeling the effects

and inspiring confidence in

Our daily lives are conducted at

of this demand — cucumber,

consumers, these super grains

a faster pace than ever before

for example, has long been

are achieving growing popularity

and the ‘normal’ day-to-day

a popular food and its high

in the cosmetics industry. Oat

situation has become one of

water content makes it the

extract in particular is known for

stress. The desire of consumers to

perfect symbol for moisturizing

its skin-calming and antioxidant

slow the pace in their limited free

formulations. It is being joined

properties and the beta-glucan

time has resulted in a ‘slow living’

by ‘newer’ vegetables that are

contained within it is a potential

trend that is accompanied by

finding their way into creams,

antiageing ingredient.

a demand for healthy, delicious

lotions and shower gels and offer

food. This has in turn driven a

scientifically-proven protection

investigated the antioxidant

rediscovery of authentic, local

against free radicals (Table II).

capacity of black rice, which has

ingredients such as vegetables.

Certain of them, particularly

Recently, we at Symrize

been cultivated in China since

The slow food movement has

The Next Step

ancient times and long been

been a significant start to

Grains such as rice, oatmeal,

considered as having medicinal

reimagining food — no longer

wheat and millet have almost

properties (Figure 1). In fact,

2012 MARCH/APRIL

investigate the cosmetic potential

References

1. C . Jones, et al., “Superfruits for Healthy Skin and Hair Care — Superfruits are on the Tip of Everyone’s Tongue,” SÖFW-journal 106, 10–16 (2010).

2. R. Re, et al., “Antioxidant Activity Applying an Improved ABTS Radical Cation Decolorization Assay,” Free Radic. Biol. Med. 26, 1231–1237 (1999).

Authors

M. Axterer, J.Betke, T. Küper, N. Scholz, D. Stuhlmann, S.Taramelli

For more information

Manfred Axterer Global Product Manager, Botanicals Symrise manfred.axterer@symrise.com Tel. +49 5531 903 543 www.symrise.com

33

LAST WORD

Sense about Science A

Dr Theresa Callaghan discusses the role of marketing in cosmetic clinical trials and its impact on consumer (mis)understanding.

s the press

4 years — namely a disconnect

of their customer must realize that

encouraging this! The common

and social

between what marketing

said consumer is an individual

practice (not solely within the

media make

departments desire based on

and not just a face in the crowd.

supply base) of running cheap

evident, today’s

their understanding of consumer

consumers

‘need,’ the scientific data

at lightning speed and the

costs before passing the buck

are not easily influenced by

generated, the claims promoted

wealth of information available

means that companies will get

cosmetic product claims. And the

by raw material suppliers and

in scientific journals and press is

the same in return: cheap data

international legal requirement

R&D’s interpretation of that

outstanding. Furthermore, with

and often not so cheerful results!

that active ingredients and

data, legislation, the formulation

large multinational conferences

final formulae substantiate

chemist, the clinical testing

and events dominating the

you put in is what you get

their claims means that neither

company or department — and

field of dermatology, the raw

out. Expectations are very

R&D nor marketing can shift

knowledge.

material supplier scientist is spoilt

rarely mirrored in reality and

for choice. Failure to capture

pressure is put on clinical testing

opportunities in this way means

companies to guarantee results; a

that commercially driven

practice that is corrupt, immoral,

distributors risk their diluted version

unethical and actually illegal. If

of the facts effectively losing them

you have a high-quality raw

sales.

material with an exciting sound

Although marketing professionals acknowledge that they create consumer needs, today’s consumers are not easily influenced by promises of eternal youth and the like. this responsibility onto the other. Moreover, an inability

Their need is your need

Academia’s progress continues

and cheerful studies to avoid

As the saying goes, what

That said, it is encouraging to

and new possibilities, give it

find and be consulting with a few

the support it deserves with

unique raw material suppliers

well thought out study designs,

whose philosophy is to have

executed at high-quality in vitro

the foresight — and an almost

laboratories and human testing

personal desire — to invest in

research companies. Ensure you

understanding new research

budget for claims support as a

findings to take advantage of

forethought, not an afterthought;

them. New claims are developed

it is part of the foundation of

and justified and, in a number of

product success and, in essence, its “soul”.

to ‘translate’ new research

Without consumers and their

findings into language that

needs, raw materials would still

cases, new data has positioned

consumers understand without

be at the starting block, but

some rather ‘old’ ingredients

losing scientific integrity is

as suppliers emphasize sales

into state-of-the-art knowledge,

presenting “Sense about Science:

causing many brands to miss key

to formulators and R&D, these

supported by quality peer-

The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic

communication opportunities.

needs are often sidelined.

reviewed scientific publications

Clinical Trials and the Impact on

Although marketing professionals

and possibly patent applications

Consumer (Mis)Understanding” at

potential is often driven by

acknowledge that they create

of their own. Supported by

in-cosmetics on 17 April between

the following: cost and an

consumer needs, today’s

quality marketing, such suppliers

13.15–14.00 in the marketing

unwillingness to spend; choice

consumers are not easily

clearly enjoy a unique position in

trends theatre. PHM

of clinical studies and lack of

influenced by promises of eternal

their respective markets.

understanding; concern about

youth or the like — and even if

the return on investment and

they are not academically ‘in the

it or not, ingredients and

worries surrounding regulatory

know,’ many have generated

finished formulae require claim

and advertising standards

a knowledge, which, in recent

substantiation and neither

authorities. There has been a

years, social media has certainly

supplier nor customer can

common underlying theme

played a large role in. The

shirk the responsibility. It is

in claims and clinical projects

supplier who is convinced that

disappointing that I often hear

executed for clients in the last

the consumer is the responsibility

industry professionals actually

Failure to capture market

34

Dr Theresa Callaghan will be

Whether the industry likes

For more information

Dr Theresa M. Callaghan Callaghan Consulting tmc@ccintl.eu www.ccintl.eu

MARCH/APRIL 2012

Visit us at stand M39, in-cosmetics, Barcelona, 17 – 19 April 2012

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