The world of personal care ingredients
PUREHealth Magazine
MARCH/APRIL 2012
formulation THE POWER OF MOTHER NATURE SENSORY SENSATIONS
HAIR CARE SPRING SHOOTS
PUTTING TRESSES TO THE TEST
SKINCARE FROM BOTOX TO NO-TOX
LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL
INSIDE THE INDUSTRY
MAKING SENSE OF THE SCIENCE FEEDING THE TRENDS
COSMETIC
CAPITAL E COUM S AT
SEE
ETICS M -COS IN
STAND
purehealthmag.co.uk 6 H M
Sun Care
AakoSun UV-filter range THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION ORGANIC UV-FILTERS Avobenzone (BMDBM) Benzophenone 3 & 4 Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Octyl Methoxycinnamate AUXILIARY RAW MATERIALS C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) INORGANIC UV-FILTERS Titanium Dioxide
www.aako.nl
Aako was205 founded in AE 1945 and established Much | importance is attached to the need P.O. Box | 3830 Leusden | The Netherlands +31 (0)33 494 84 94 itself as a distributor for speciality
for proper protection against sunlight
Middle East. Trough consistent investment
requirements on suntan lotion products.
chemicals in Europe, North Africa and
in its employees during these 65 years it
has become synonymous with the phrase
and European regulations impose strict
Our UV-filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture
Sun Care
“chemistry with people”
Aako is currently active in the following
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Our expertise and customer-orientated
services in sales and marketing, logistics, AakoSun UV-filter range
markets: detergents, cosmetics (sun
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product development, regulatory affairs THE COMPLETE RANGE FOR PROTECTION
and home care, coating specialties, crop
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suppliers and customers. Benzophenone
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term close co-operations with(BMDBM) many global Avobenzone
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www.aako.nl
P.O. Box 205 | 3830 AE Leusden | The Netherlands | +31 (0)33 494 84 94
CONTENTS ... h t n I
s i s i
sue
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Event Preview 05 Cosmetics in the Catalan Capital
in-context 08 The Latest in-cosmetics
18
News and Updates
Hair Care 16 Putting Tresses to the Test Jo Smewing
18 Spring shoots Dr S. Gokulshankar
Antiageing
24
20 Turning the Tide of Ageing Anat Stern
Formulation 22 The Power of Mother Nature Tony Abboud
24 Sensory Sensations Dominik Schneider
Skincare 28 The Light at the End of the
30
Tunnel
Dr Sam Robson
30 From Botox to No-Tox Dr Dapeng Zhang
Industry Trends 32 Feeding Cosmetic Trends Manfred Axterer
16 2012 MARCH/APRIL
Last Word 34 Sense about Science Dr Theresa Callaghan
3
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Inspired by nature Please visi t us at In-cosmetic s Barcelon a, 17–19 April 2012, Booth M 5 9
Innovative Solutions Active Ingredients Multifunctional Products MCT-Oils Vegetable Oils Soap Noodles
In response to the growing demand of natural ingredients Cremer Care focuses on natural solutions from reliable sources coming from all over the world. We offer a wide range of natural as well as organic certified products. With CremerTIMOLA®, our new product with particularly calming, soothing properties we address formulations for demanding and sensitive skin. CremerTIMOLA® ’s uniqueness relies on one of the central ideas of Cremer Care: to combine the preservation of indigenous knowledge about plants with potential for cosmetic applications and the promotion of sustainable use, the creation of employment opportunities, as well as an adequate benefit sharing with local communities or individuals. Additionally, Cremer Care strengthens its ester competence: CremerCOOR®, DYNASAN®, IMWITOR®, MIGLYOL®, SOFTISAN® … are our outstanding ester-based specialities for your cosmetic products.
CREMER OLEO GmbH & CO. KG • Glockengiesserwall 3 • D-20095 Hamburg Phone +49(0)40/3 20 11-0 • www.cremer-care.com
Anzeige_210x149mm.indd 1
16.03.12 11:13
EVENT PREVIEW
Cosmetics in the Catalan Capital Marketing Trends Programme Tuesday 17 April
A
10:30–11:15 Opportunities in Skin Care: Exploring Specialty Actives Nikola Matic, Project Leader, Kline 11:45–12:45 in-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel Discussion E-communication – A Major Challenge in Sun Protection 13:15–14:00 Sense About Science: The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic Clinical Trials and the Impact on Consumer (Mis) Understanding. Dr Theresa Callaghan, Owner, Callaghan Consulting International, Hamburg, Germany. 14:15–15:00 Men’s Toiletries — The Slumbering Giant — How to Awaken It? Will King, Founder & CEO, The King Of Shaves Co. Ltd 15:45–16:30 Natural & Organic Cosmetic Brand Naturalness Ratings Amarjit Sahota, Founder and Director, and Judi Beerling, Technical Director, Organic Monitor 18:00–20:00 in-cosmetics Innovation Zone best ingredient awards Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards.
s one of Europe’s
full-scale innovation platform has
most beautiful
been designed to help industry
cities and the
players to evaluate the latest
Wednesday 18 April
heart of Spain’s
developments and anticipate
€7.8 billion
future trends. Its programme will
09:45–10:30 Solar Logic: Innovation and Insight in Sun Protection Nica Lewis, Mintel 11:00–12:00 Exploring the Future of Nano Protection in-focus “Solar Beauty” Panel Discussion 12:30–13:15 Future M&A Trends and Drivers Across the Personal Care Value Chain Eric Vogelsberg, Senior Vice President, M&A and Corporate Development Practice, Kline 13:45–14:30 Exploring (New) Paradigm Shifts in Global Beauty Irina Barbalova, Head of Beauty and Personal Care, Euromonitor International 15:00–15:45 How to Translate Future Trends into Innovation for Raw Materials Suppliers. Antoinette van den Berg, Designer, Leading Spirit and Founder, Future-Touch 16:15–17:15 Niche Brands Building for Success Live Interviews conducted by Angelika Meiss, Editor-in-Chief, Cossma
cosmetic market, Barcelona
include a dedicated scientific
seems particularly suited
seminar on sun protection and
to its role as the host of this
panel discussions on consumer
year’s largest personal care
education and nanoparticles. A
ingredients event, set to take
special man-made beach area,
place from April 17–19 at the
designed to trigger new ideas
Gran Via exhibition centre. As
and provide an original setting
ever, the business opportunities
for networking opportunities, will
for companies will be plentiful:
form the centre piece of in-focus
more than 500 world-class
this year. A beachside photo
suppliers of new and innovative
gallery illustrating the evolution of
cosmetic ingredients and
sun care advertising through the
services have already signed up
last 60 years will be accompanied
to attend the event — 3 months
by a skin clinic highlighting the
before the show begins. Industry
damage that exposure to the
heavyweights such as Croda,
sun can cause, an interactive
Thursday 19 April
DSM, Lubrizol and Merck will
video on nanotechnologies and
once again have a presence,
exclusive insights into how to
alongside in excess of 50 first-
innovate using social networks. A
time exhibitors, originating from
dedicated ‘solar trail’ will clearly
countries as diverse as Bulgaria,
highlight the exhibitors with solar
China, Korea and Switzerland.
beauty projects on their stands for
09:45–10:30 The Sensory and Indulgent Side of Personal Care Mark Whalley, Senior Analyst, and Michaela Peck, Analyst, Datamonitor 11:00–11:45 Finding the Sweet Spot of Nutricosmetics Ewa Hudson, Head of Health and Wellness, Euromonitor International 12:15–13:00 From Facebook to Face Creams — Exploring Social Media Channels and their Impacts on Beauty Brands Wendy Lewis, President, Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd, Global Aesthetics Consultancy 13:30–14:15 Recreating the Mall Online: How to Make Social Shopping Truly Beautiful Amy Kean, Head of Consumer Innovation, MPG Media Contacts
‘Solar beauty’ will be the theme of 2012’s in-focus feature and will have a larger role to
visitors making their way around the show. in-cosmetics group marketing
play than any previously. Echoed
manager, Cathy Laporte,
through the entire event, it will
commented: “Last year’s show
navigate visitors through the
in Milan was packed with
complex solar beauty labyrinth. A
professionals looking to source
2012 MARCH/APRIL
5
IN-CONTEXT
Innovation Seminar Programme Tuesday 17 April
10:30–11:00 Proteins Re-Evaluated: A Greener Way to Achieve Active Benefits for Cosmetics TRI-K Industries 11:00–11:30 Novemer EC2 – New Multifunctional Liquid Polymer for High Performance Skincare Systems Lubrizol Advanced Materials Europe BVBA 11:30–12:00 A Liposoluble Active to Protect and Repair Skin Erythema and Barrier Function Loss Innovacos Corp. 12:00–12:30 An Interlude with Seppic: Trends 2012–2013 SEPPIC SA 12:30–13:00 A New Biomimetic Ingredient of the Skin Hydrolipidic Film: Clinical Benefits B&Tcompany – The HallStar Company 13:00–13:30 Galaxy SunBeat: A Unique WaterSoluble Sunscreen Galaxy Sufactants 13:30–14:00 ‘Skin Radiance:’ How to Characterize and Measure It Silab 14:00–14:30 A presentation by BASF Beauty Care Solutions 14:30–15:00 A New Generation of Technologies for the Treatment of Damaged Hair Croda 15:00–15:30 A presentation by Naturex 15:30–16:00 Composite ACT-50: A UV Powder for Efficient and Safer Sunscreens KOBO Products, Inc.
16:00–16:30 Performance and Aesthetics in Natural Brands Inolex 16:30–17:00 Vitipure – Coming Closer to the Fountain of Youth Clariant International Ltd 17:00–17:30 New Polymer Technology for Water Resistance Dow Personal Care 17:30–18:00 Purasal Mild: Natural, Cost-Effective Mildness Enhancer for Rinse–Off Personal Care Products Purac
Wednesday 18 April 09:30–10:00 Gemmonova: A Bud Extract Enhancing Skin Beauty Jan Dekker International 10:00–10:30 Innovative Claim Support for Refreshing, Cooling and Soothing Products proDERM GmbH 10:30–11:00 Multi-functional Marine Active Ingredient as a Gentle Alternative to AHAs Aqua Bio Technology ASA 11:00–11:30 DermCom — An Activator of Epidermal-Dermal Communication for Deep Skin Rejuvenation Mibelle Biochemistry 12:00–12:30 Natural Active Ingredients from Plant Stem Cells to Preserve Skin Functions IRB 12:30–13:00 The Lenitive and Photoaging Preventing Properties of a Unique Asian Extract Indena S. p. A.
13:00–13:30 New Tilamar Fix A140 – Combining Ultimate Hold with Fast Drying for the First Time DSM Nutritional Products Ltd 13:30–14:00 Innovative Natural Fibres Blend as Emulsifier/Thickener Berg + Schmidt (GmbH & Co.) KG 14:00–14:30 Sustainable Sensory – Development of New Natural Cosmetic Particles Evonik Industries AG 14:30–15:00 The Beauty Bar: The Future of Top-toToe Cleansing in Bar and Solid Formats Innospec 15:00–15:30 The Fast Way to Get Rid of Wrinkles RAHN AG 15:30–16:00 A presentation by Rhodia 16:00–16:30 Using Pathways in Plants to Increase Bilirubin Degradation and Decrease Under-eye Circles Lonza AG 16:30–17:00 A presentation by Beraca 17:00–17:30 CremerTimola, Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Extract, Indigenous Plant Knowledge for Personal Care Cremer Care 17:30–18:00 Innovative Preservation Solutions for Today’s Formulator Lonza AG
09:30–10:00 The CeeTox Repeat Dose Systemic Toxicity Panel CeeTox, Inc. 10:00–10:30 Japanese Traditional Fruit Extract, AGEs Crosslinks Breaker, Improve the Aged Skin Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co. Ltd
10:30–11:00 Style and Relax BASF 11:00–11:30 Sebum and Acne Manifestation Control by Quillaja Saponins: Objective Evaluation of Performance ISPE srl 11:30–12:00 Novel Molecular Approach to Sensitive Skin Lipotec 12:00–12:30 Innovation for Natural Cosmetics 2: Viewing a Range of Amino Acid Technology Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V 12:30–13:00 New Type of Silicone Emulsifiers and Ingredients Used in Personal Care Applications BioMax Si&F New Material Co. Ltd 13:00–13:30 Disrupt Photoaging — Breakthrough Zeta Fraction Technology From Living Plants AkzoNobel Global Personal Care 13:30–14:00 Innovative Anti-ageing Tetrapeptide for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Ageing Miwon Commercial Co. Ltd 14:00–14:30 Preservative Effects of Zemea Propanediol, a Natural Glycol Replacement DuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts 14:30–15:00 How Can Nature-derived Texturizers Answer the Main Trends of Personal Care Industry? Cargill France SAS 15:00–15:30 Direct Accelerated Stability Tests for Cosmetic Products by an Innovative Technology LUM GmbH
the newest products and
to the event, tying in perfectly
latest developments from the
with the setting of Barcelona.”
Thursday 19 April
world’s cosmetic and personal
6
care industry and all the early
Shining a Light
indicators are that the 2012
Other highlights include the
exhibition will be even more
hugely popular innovation
impressive. We have already
zone, which presents some of
booked 11,600 m2 of floor space
the latest ingredients launched
— the largest ever area for the
by exhibitors and the most
event — meaning that it will
innovative beauty products
exceed the record-breaking
selected by Mintel Beauty &
2011 show. The educational
Personal Care. This will also
programme features are also the
include the best ingredient
most diverse yet and this year’s
award, which recognizes
in-focus theme of solar beauty
the most innovative and
will provide an exciting addition
original ingredients in the
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Following its success at last year’s exhibition in Milan, and more recently at in-cosmetics Asia, the innovation zone will also make a return. show. Suppliers will present
launches, the seminars will
free innovation seminars
cover a wide range of topics
highlighting products that
and include a variety of talks,
have just entered, or will
such as “Proteins Re-Evaluated:
soon enter, the market and
A Greener Way to Achieve
workshops, scientific seminars
Active Benefits for Cosmetics”
and free marketing trend
by TRI-K Industries, “The Lenitive
presentations delivered by
and Photoageing Preventing
industry experts will focus on
Properties of a Unique Asian
the latest topics of widespread
Extract,’ presented by Indena
interest.
S.p.A. and “Composite ACT-50:
Highlights of the marketing
Tuesday 17 April
14:00–18:00 Spotlight on Sun Protection (a Solar Beauty Seminar)
Wednesday 18 April 09:30–13:00 Cosmetogenomics – At the Cutting Edge of Cosmetic Science Featuring contributions from VitroScreen, the University of Bradford, Laboratoires Expanscience and the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection of the JRC, European Commission. 14:00–18:00 Alternative (Non-Animal) Methods for Cosmetics Testing With experts from the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), the Centre for Alternatives to Animal Testing – Europe (CAAT-EU), CeeTox and AgenoLab.
Formulation Workshop Programme Thursday 19 April
09:30–13:00 Green Formulations: Overcoming the Technical Hurdles Judi Beerling, Organic Monitor
A UV Powder for Efficient and
trends programme include
Safer Sunscreens’ by KOBO
a session led by Nicola
Products, Inc.”
Matic, project leader at
Scientific Seminar Programme
Experts will also discuss one
Kline & Company, entitled
of the most dynamic fields in
“Opportunities in Skincare:
the industry during the scientific
Exploring Speciality Actives,”
seminar “Cosmetogenomics
focusing on new trends in the
— At the Cutting Edge of
market. Later that day, Will King,
Cosmetic Science,” featuring
founder and CEO of The King of
contributions from VitroScreen,
Shaves brand, will speak about
the University of Bradford,
maximizing opportunities for
Laboratoires Expanscience
companies in his presentation,
and the Institute for Health and
“Men’s Toiletries — the
Consumer Protection of the
Slumbering Giant — How
JRC, European Commission.
to Awaken It.” Nica Lewis, a
Attendees will learn about the
the major technical and
for new product launches
global skincare analyst with
latest gene expression studies
formulation issues associated
and many companies have
Mintel, will take a close look at
and discover how proteomics
with such products, providing
already signed up to exhibit
the event’s key theme in “Solar
techniques can help in
practical advice and solutions
their latest innovations, including
Logic: Innovation and Insight in
understanding the mechanisms
to cosmetic and ingredient
Ceetox, Gattefosse, Lonza
Sun Protection.” Ewa Hudson,
of efficacy and safety. Following
companies. Judi Beerling,
and Unipex. The innovation
head of health and wellness at
this, “Alternative (Non-Animal)
technical research manager at
zone best ingredient award,
Euromonitor International will also
Methods for Cosmetics Testing,”
Organic Monitor, will lead the
which recognizes the most
chair a discussion on “Finding the
will delve into the impact of the
workshop, with the primary aim
groundbreaking development
Sweet Spots of Nutricosmetics,”
ban on animal testing scheduled
of providing practical advice for
at the show, is a central part of
which will highlight the increased
for 2013. Featuring contributions
organizations looking to obtain
the feature, with the winners
popularity of less conventional
from industry professionals and
certification in new and organic
being announced in the
beauty solutions and explore
concluding with a round table
cosmetic standards.
marketing trends theatre on the
potential developments in
and discussion on possible
this area.
alternatives, this session will
year’s exhibition in Milan, and
Following its success at last
be essential for any business
more recently at in-cosmetics
about the latest ingredients
that stands to be affected by
Asia, the innovation zone will
and formulation techniques
changes to existing legislation.
also make a return. Featuring
On 19 April, a formulation
product demonstrations and
Those keen to find out more
can do so this year through the 40 innovation seminars.
workshop entitled “Green
packed with more than 50
Designed to provide first-hand
Formulations: Overcoming the
new product launches, it is the
knowledge of the most recent
Technical Hurdles,” will highlight
best place to find inspiration
2012 MARCH/APRIL
17 April from 18:00–20:00. PHM
For more information
Visitors registering before 16 April will receive free entry to the show. For more information on registering, visit www.in-cosmetics.com.
7
IN-CONTEXT
CARING CRODA
Croda (stand G30) will introduce three biomimetic solutions for today’s science-savvy consumers. The next generation of biomimetic keratin — Keramimic 2.0 — combines the best of science and nature to offer intelligent, targeted repair for the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface, delivering outstanding hair conditioning and feel. Collasurge, a new marine collagenbased moisturizing active, allows manufacturers to respond to the surge in consumer interest in collagen, whereas the Cystine Hair Smoothing System showcases a range of innovative biopolymers in four hair care formulations specially designed to create straight, shiny and manageable hair. The company is also proud to unveil a new and innovative hair conditioning agent, KeraDyn HH. Proven to deliver ‘healthy hair dynamics’ to damaged hair, the ingredient provides the hair care sector with a new, exciting marketing platform for the next generation of products. It is possible to establish the health of hair by the way it moves and KeraDyn HH (supported by a global data package) has been designed to boost the dynamics of damaged hair, enhancing fibre alignment and reducing friction between hair strands to encourage freedom of movement. Croda will also introduce visitors to two more initiatives: the company’s new novel emollient, a 100% naturally derived ingredient that is a sensory alternative to squalane and the emulsion textures kit, an innovative sample kit demonstrating the unique textures that can be achieved through the combination of carefully selected emulsifiers and emollients. The kit takes an in-depth look at the influence of emulsifiers and emollients on the texture and sensorial properties of a system. Boasting more than 30 years of experience in developing, formulating and testing UV filters, Croda will be expanding their extensive portfolio of sun protection ingredients. Committed to meeting global sun care trends with locally tailored sunscreen actives, Solaveil XT-40W is a new globally-approved UV filter, whereas Solaveil AT-300 has been developed to make meeting the FDA requirements for broad-spectrum protection ‘as easy as ABC.’
A Breath of Fresh Air
AkzoNobel have launched a new line of completely sustainable bioactive ingredients that aim to bring unparalleled benefits to antiageing skincare. The range will be defined as ‘fresh approaches’ to emphasize its originality, inventiveness and innovation and will comprise a host of sustainable ingredients and solutions that will be introduced throughout 2012 by the global personal care arm of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry (stand N30). In keeping with this theme, the company will showcase its Recentia plant serum fractions — a new line of bioactive ingredients based on breakthrough Zeta Fraction technology. This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy and differentiation to antiageing skincare. Recentia CS, the first Zeta Fraction active ingredient to be introduced, capitalizes on the powerful, biologically active substances contained in the fresh leaves of the Camellia sinensis tea plant. This ingredient targets the multiple biological pathways associated with both internal and external stress on skin. For the first time, potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, free-radicalscavenging and photo-stabilizing activities are combined in a single ingredient to protect skin from the root causes of photoageing. Zeta Fraction technology selectively isolates intracellular components from fresh, living plants and marine sources to produce bioactive ingredients able to capture the powerful synergy that exists within plant cells. The result is a wide range of multi-targeted benefits that are superior to those obtained through conventional plant extraction technology. In addition, the ingredients only include naturally occurring, unmodified substances and are therefore completely sustainable, reproducible and safe (www.akzonobel.com/personalcare).
Hot Stuff
This patented technology brings an entirely new level of performance, efficacy and differentiation to antiageing skincare. Croda will also be presenting their Solaveil physical shield campaign, a socially responsible approach to educating consumers about the importance of sun protection. In a world in which consumers demand to be increasingly informed and assured, the Solaveil physical shield campaign can promote confidence and add value to sunscreen and beauty products. With a fun and interactive website, a host of PR activities and an ongoing social media marketing strategy, Croda aim to inform, generate awareness and communicate the message that when the sun comes out, so should Solaveil. In addition, Croda will introduce Versathix, an exceptionally versatile rheology modifier that provides excellent thickening in traditional and sulphate-free systems, coupled with shear thinning rheology (especially important in bath and shower gels) and has no impact on foaming. Further to this wide range of launches, Terraquat BD — a new, ultimately biodegradable hair conditioning agent with an excellent aquatic toxicity profile that mirrors the performance of traditional conditioning agents — will also be launched. This environmentally friendly product provides conditioning and detangling properties to hair care formulations and claims to show great formulation versatility, being suitable for use in shampoos, conditioners and styling agents. Croda will also take part in the in-cosmetics solar beauty trail, which will feature globally approved ingredients to create formulations suitable for global trends, locally tailored solutions to comply with differing regulatory requirements needs and socially responsible approaches to inform consumers about the importance of sun protection (www.croda.com).
8
Setalg (stand G50), a French company specializing in natural marine ingredients and private label cosmetics, will be presenting its exclusive range of natural products, including rinse-off/peel-off masks and wraps, marine muds, clays, bath salts and scrubs. Praised for their high quality, the company offers three types of products: peel-off and rinse-off bases, standard formulations and product customization and claim to use their unique know how to adapt texture, active ingredients, colour and fragrance to suit customer requests. In addition, Setalg delivers bulk or customized individual packaging. A ready-to-use concept that does not require the addition of water, the company’s microwavable mask is 100% natural and used for its heating properties. The extremely light weight and boosting effect of this formulation is said to bring real added value to professional treatments by increasing their activity and attractiveness. Its unique heating properties stimulate the optimal opening of skin pores, better penetration of actives, feelings of instant relaxation and exceptional lightness. The formulation’s fatty base and heating effect encourages a better penetration of actives and a sense of well-being (www.setalg.com).
MARCH/APRIL 2012
in-CONTEXT
Real Beauty Comes From Within
Verisol, the bioactive collagen peptides from GELITA (stand W55), stimulate skin metabolism and thus substantially increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, with the effect of noticeably reducing wrinkle formation. Asian women have long since recognized the value of collagen to promote beauty but in Europe and in the USA consumer knowledge is principally derived from the claims made for topical cosmetic applications. Collagen peptides are still rather rare as an ingredient in dietary supplements or nuticosmetics, although it is becoming evident that this trend, established in Asia, is moving westwards and ‘beauty from within’ is finding a place as a major global cosmetic trend. Verisol, which is administered orally, directly influences the skin metabolism from the inside, stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis to increase the synthesis of collagen, elastin and proteoclycans, all of which are vital for balancing skin elasticity — and thus for improving skin condition. The ingredient is a pure collagen protein with excellent bioavailability that can be easily incorporated into a wide variety of products; from pharmaceutical-like applications such as capsules or tablets to dietary supplements and indulgence products such as chocolate or beverages. Visit the GELITA stand to be convinced that Verisol can contribute to the success of your product range (www.gelita.com).
Breaking the Code
As individuals age, negative expressions such as frowns have a tendency to become set as the skin loses its elasticity and positive expressions lose their structure as the skin starts to sag. Whereas crow’s feet are considered to be smile wrinkles, forehead lines harden the gaze and deepening nasal furrows, with the appearance of circumoral wrinkles, indicate bitterness. In young women, high cheekbones and a tapering chin form what is called a triangle of beauty. In older women, however, forehead lines and nasal furrows delineate an inverse triangle of beauty. Natural ageing of the skin is the result of a slow, progressive and genetically determined process and, with age, the genes that code for the synthesis of the dermal structural molecules — elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid — enter a ‘sleeping phase.’ As a result, the dermal matrix loses its structure and the skin reduces in firmness, causing long-term lines to become ‘fixed’ and wrinkles accentuated. To help to fight this genetically programmed inversion of the triangle of beauty, Codif Recherche et Nature (stand C20) has developed an extract of fertile bases of Undaria pinnatifida called Matrigenics.14 G. This new active ingredient is rich in Wakamic ester and works to reactivate genes that are lying dormant. Undaria pinnatifida , also referred to as Wakame, is a brown macroalga that originates in Asia, where it is grown on ropes and eaten. Codif Recherche et Nature cultivates Wakame in a protected area of the Rance estuary in Brittany on a system of submerged ropes. Undaria pinnatifida is characterized by tissues known as fertile bases or Mekabu, which contain the spores by which the species reproduces. The fertile bases represent a concentration of life that not only ensures the reproduction of the algae but its survival across the centuries. To assess their antiageing benefits, the company isolated them from the rest of the alga to extract their compounds. Their laboratory has discovered a sulphated galactofucan — Wakamic ester — which is not only able to activate the genes involved in the synthesis of the extra cellular matrix (collagen, elastin and proteoglycans), but also their anchoring and organization into the matrix, for a wider restructuring effect. The antiageing effect of Matrigenics.14 G was measured on forehead lines, nasal furrows and circumoral wrinkles following 14 and 28 day treatments. After 14 days, significant decreases in the volume (23.8%) and area (14.4%) of the forehead wrinkles were measured. After 28 days, the volume and area of the nasal furrows were seen to decrease by 8% and 9%, whereas volume and area of the circumoral wrinkles were decreased by 18% and 16%, respectively (www.codifrecherche-et-nature.com).
10
In and Out Approaches
Lipotec’s (stand K20) nutricosmetic brand, Insidetec, is set to introduce two new oral formulations: Invertage and Inhydrate. Based on the Mediterranean diet, Invertage capsules contain functional nutrients that are well known for their beneficial effects in collagen protection and the prevention of oxidative stress — thus preventing skin from the most visible signs of ageing. Food grade ingredients in Inhydrate capsules have proven efficacy in improving skin moisture from the inside out by enhancing barrier function and protecting cells from dehydration. The products are supported by Lipotec’s expertise in molecular cosmetics and efficacy tests have proven the antiageing and moisturizing benefits of this novel approach. Depth of wrinkles decreased by 51% after 30 days of combining the intake of Invertage capsules with the topical application of a cream containing 5% Trylagen, Lipotec’s key collagenboosting ingredient. Skin hydration increased by 156% after 56 days of combining Inhydrate Capsules with a 2% Diffuporine hexapeptide cream, which not only increases skin hydration but also induces collagen I synthesis and keratinocyte proliferation. Furthermore, novel peptides from Aimtec targeting sensitive skin, in addition to new antiwrinkle biotech active ingredients from Biointec, will be among key products launched at in-cosmetics (www.lipotec.com).
Mild Care for Sensitive Skin
Individuals’ well-being can be greatly affected by the condition of their skin — and this is causing to more and more consumers, especially those with sensitive skin, to seek nourishing and soothing products. To help manufacturers to meet these demands, BASF’s (stand D40) care chemicals division has launched Cetiol RLF, its first light emollient produced using an enzymatic process that is derived solely from renewable feedstocks, proven to be mild on sensitive skin and kind to the environment. During the last 5 years, products with marketing claims relating to sensitive skin and environmental benefits have significantly increased their share of the personal care market and — owing to its light texture, rapid absorption and smoothing effect on the skin — formulations containing Cetiol RLF are ideally suited to products that carry such promises. It is widely known that the sensorial properties of a cosmetic product are influenced by the spreading properties of emollients; Cetiol RLF is a fast-spreading emollient that gives products a pleasant and light skin feel with a crystal-clear appearance and a light natural odour. This makes it an attractive component in a modern skin care formulations and, as such, it is suitable for use in a wide variety of mild products. Dermatological tests done on a group of individuals with sensitive skin confirmed that it does not even irritate sensitive skin after tape stripping and under exaggerated test conditions. BASF’s (www.basf.com) emollient can therefore be described as suitable for babies, children and adults with sensitive skin — even for those with atopic skin. In addition to this, the new ingredient is ideal for products that claim a high content of natural ingredients as it is made from 100% natural renewable feedstock and catalyzed with enzymes; a new process that helps to reduce emissions and ensure high quality. Additionally, the emollient is approved by Ecocert, certified by NaTrue and the National Products Association (NPA) and recommended for concepts that accord with BDIH and COSMOS. Fabio Triggiani, part of the personal care marketing division, explains: “Cetiol RLF helps to satisfy the needs of consumers with sensitive skin and address the desire for products of natural origin. Its proven mildness, along with its hydrating effect and light skin feel, can enhance people’s sense of well-being.”
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Marine biotechnology for sustainable cosmetics Lipotec’s active ingredients in BiointecTM are naturally occurring in non-genetically modified organisms, which are used to manufacture cosmetic ingredients through biotechnological means. The result is a sustainable production of actives from the sea while preserving the environment, since there is no harvesting or extracting from nature.
Visit us at our stand K20
in-CONTEXT
Crème de la Crème
Cremer Oleo (stand M59) has assumed control of the operations of the Witten facilities from the Sasol Group in an attempt to establish the company as Europe’s leading manufacturer of oleochemical speciality esters. The business wishes to place particular emphasis on their MCT oils, which fall under the brand names CremerCOOR and MIGLYOL and find widespread use in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic segments. The company has achieved a unique position as the world’s only manufacturer that operates high-performance mono plants exclusively for the production of MCT oils and GMP-certified production in two completely independent facilities. In addition, it offers a wide selection of technical grades (such as C7, C8 and C10), attends to sustainability issues (boasting coconut oil-based products, Ecocert certification and membership of the RSPO) and ensures compliance with a multitude of quality standards (including ISO 9001 and ISO 22000, Kosher, Halal, EP and GMP). These offerings are complemented by a broad spectrum of ester-based specialities, including CremerCOOR, DYNASAN, IMWITOR, MIGLYOL, SOFTISAN and WITEPSOL, which have a variety of uses in human and animal foodstuffs, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries and technical applications. Depending on their composition, they serve as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers and consistency builders, acting as essential elements of customer-specific end products and playing an instrumental role in guaranteeing their quality, stability and safety. Multifunctional production lines, a multitude of follow-up processes including a state-of-the-art, multi-step short-path distillation, several flaking and pelletizing lines and more than 100 years of experience in the manufacture and application of special oleochemical products, enable Cremer Oleo to offer customers solutions to meet their specific needs. The company believes that backwards integration for the most important basic raw materials, integral dovetailing of the activities of its Witten and Wittenberge facilities and the lean structures of a medium-scale enterprise means it is excellently positioned in the global marketplace. Through this acquisition it hopes to create long-term synergies and, in combination with a broad spectrum of active ingredients, vegetable oils, soap noodles, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and glycerines from the Cremer Care portfolio, position the company as an all-round system provider for the cosmetics manufacturing sector (www.cremer-care.de).
Dow-n with the Industry
The Dow Chemical Company (stand Y30) will feature a broad range of products from its personal care, microbial control and performance additives sectors. Visitors will learn how its businesses provide distinct advantages to numerous segments within the industry; from eye products and colour cosmetics to conditioners, shampoos and styling products, in addition to skincare, bath and shower and sun protection products. Eunice Heath, global general manager of Dow Home & Personal Care, described the company as “excited to participate in the in-cosmetics trade show to showcase our broad portfolio of technologies — especially three new products that we’re launching this year. Through close collaboration with customers, Dow strives to deliver new technologies that set our customers’ products apart from the competition.” New products to be launched include EPITEX 66 Polymer, a water-resistant polymer for skin and sun care applications, ACUDYNE Shine, a hair styling polymer offering outstanding shine in high VOC hair sprays and EcoSense Surfactants, a new family of plant-based, biodegradable surfactants for use in shampoo and skin cleansing applications. In addition, Dow Personal Care will present an innovation seminar for the show’s educational programme and a live demonstration as part of the innovation zone feature. Dow Microbial Control, a leader in the field of preservation that offers options for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care formulations, will feature a wide range of products, including paraben- and formaldehyde-free solutions. Additionally, visitors can learn more about the Dow Microbial Control customer application centre’s offerings to customers, which include performing tests to evaluate and optimize biocides, solving customer problems, delivering customized solutions and offering product development services, bringing them the latest innovations from global and local R&D centres. Each of these application centres contains dedicated application and challenge-testing laboratories with best-in-class equipment, including TAUNOVATE High Throughput optimization. With its globally approved, broad spectrum NEOLONE and KATHON preservatives, Dow Microbial Control is uniquely positioned to offer high-performing actives and formulations designed for personal care and cosmetic applications. The business has developed application testing that clearly demonstrates the exceptional performance benefits of AMP-ULTRA PC specialty neutralizer in a range of hair styling products. Today’s consumers lead hectic lives and expect their hair products to keep up with their lifestyle; Dow Performance Additives will showcase personal care neutralizers that can maximize the performance of hair styling products, skincare, eye care and sun care applications (www.dow.com).
12
The Beauty of Technology
Stable Micro Systems (stand B60), a world leader in texture analysis and powder flow instrumentation, will be showcasing its new comprehensive texture analysis package at the show. This extended capability is the result of the company’s expertise in the cosmetics industry, ongoing research and close collaboration with its global customer base. The package incorporates a redesigned TA.XTplus texture analyser that boasts new accessories for bespoke applications and improved ease of use. The software suite features an ‘education zone,’ which offers users a wealth of application material, an extensive library of technical information, published academic papers and valuable insights into the optimum choice of probes and fixtures. Existing customers can access a free software upgrade to benefit from the improved functionality of the newly-launched package. Stable Micro Systems’ unique approach is founded on research, rigourous testing and cutting-edge product development and it believes that its latest developments underscore the company’s position as a pioneer in texture analysis. Its approach has been encapsulated in its new corporate strapline: ‘innovation, education, application.’ With applications in R&D, product development and quality control, this new texture analysis package is ideally suited to testing ingredients, finished products and cosmetic packaging. Typical tests include measurement of gel strength, lipstick break strength, soap hardness and flow properties in powders and creams. The TA.XTplus can also be used to quantify cosmetic benefits and substantiate product claims. The effect that shampoos and conditioners have on hair softness, for example, can be determined by measuring tensile strength, combing forces and extensibility of hair strands after being treated with a particular product. Stable Micro Systems prides itself on superior post-purchase technical, instrument and application support and training. Dedicated technical experts and knowledgeable distributors on every continent provide advice and assistance to formulators and manufacturers as they address the challenges of new product development and consumer satisfaction. Mark Proto, managing director at Stable Micro Systems, commented: “We are pleased to be launching our new texture analysis package to the industry at in-cosmetics. Innovation, education and application are fundamental to our long-standing success in developing analytical instruments and accessories tailored to the challenging applications of the cosmetics industry.” He continued to explain that “this new texture analysis package delivers precise and reliable measurements for a wide range of cosmetic studies. We are committed to developing our products and applications in partnership with customers and maintaining our technical support and application guidance throughout the product’s life span.” Representatives from the company will be available on its stand to answer texture analysis product and applications questions (www.stablemicrosystems.com).
MARCH/APRIL 2012
in-context
The Scent of Sustainability
Earthoil Plantations (stand H30), the cosmetics ingredients division of Treatt plc, will exhibit its latest range of ethically sourced cosmetic ingredients. Among the items highlighted will be exciting new fruit seed oil ingredients for the cosmetic formulator: Organic Sour Cherry Seed Oil and Guava Seed Oil. The company will also be showing two essential oils from its new Japanese range and an extended range of Eartholates, its innovative, natural, pure organic aromatic isolates. These unique ingredients will give cosmetic formulators a wider palette to use when developing new products. Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter, part of Earthoil’s (www.treatt.com) comprehensive range of vegetable oils, will also be featured. Demand for products that contain natural, organic, ethically-sourced ingredients continues to grow — and more developers are welcoming traceable pure raw materials as a means to help them to strengthen their position in the competitive ethical marketplace. Earthoil recognizes the industry’s need for reliable high-quality sourcing of natural ingredients in cosmetics and therefore maintains clear operational standards in growing, handling, storage and distribution. Earthoil works closely with its technical staff, certifiers, processors and growers to ensure that its products meet the most exacting quality standards. The company’s engagement with some of India and Africa’s poorest farming communities has also been welcomed, both for its provision of income and for community projects that are undertaken and funded by the Earthoil Organic Farms Foundation (EOFF).
A Sustainable Commitment
Laboratoires Prod’hyg (stand W40) are extending their environmental policy and compounding their commitment to local populations by working to tackle malnutrition in Burkina Faso. The company will be promoting ProdhylemGae, a cosmetic antiageing ingredient derived from locally produced algae, spirulin. Produced on the Petit Seminaire farm in the village of Koudougou, this highly proteinic blue alga is widely distributed to the local population as a food supplement. The formulation and innovation department of Laboratoires Prod’hyg has also launched a hydro-glycerinated extract of this Spirulina Platensis dedicated to the antiageing personal care products. The success of this ingredient in a cosmetics formula will in turn help Laboratories Prod’hyg to support local NGOs and help to promote the autonomy of the local African families (www.technapspiruline.com).
SOLABIA
Its development of pre- and probiotic active ingredients has made Solabia Research (stand P15) a key player in microbial ecology and the company is now offering a complementary mechanism of action. This new approach centres on inhibiting the adhesion of undesirable or pathogenic bacterial strains that are associated with body odour, acne, atopic dermatitis and sensitive skin. Unlike the antibacterial products that are commonly used in the cosmetic industry, this alternative strategy addresses the needs of the cutaneous Ecosystem and the skin’s natural defenses, such as the Ecoflora (microbial saprophytic flora). Teflose is a natural, rhamnose-rich, branched
14
polysaccharide that is obtained by bacterial fermentation. It plays the role of an anti-adhesive protective cover (a “Teflon-like” effect). It also helps to modulate the resultant inflammatory response generated by microbial stress and works to decrease feelings of discomfort. Solabia will also be presenting the result of its research into enzymatic biocatalysis: Viniderm. This ingredient is obtained through a patented bioconversion process, which converts resveratrol found in the grapes of Languedoc Roussillon into delta-viniferin to gain a higher antioxidant concentration than is found naturally on the vine. Delta-viniferin is then associated with other polyphenols found in grape juice to give the final ingredient, Viniderm, a double efficiency. It both preserves the skin’s youthfulness by protecting stem cell niches and mitochondrial DNA and reduces the signs of ageing by redensifying the extra-cellular matrix. The active ingredient is free from preservatives and accords with ECOCERT standards and is approved for use in China (www.solabia.com).
Indena Go In-Depth
Indena (stand T50) will present Centevita, a purified dry extract obtained from Centella asiatica, a perennial, polymorphous, creeping herbaceous plant belonging to the Apiaceae (Umbrelliferae) family. The extract is a food grade ingredient (solvent and contaminant), that only uses water and ethanol as solvents and is composed of almost 45% triterpenes, including madecassoside, and approximately 5.5% polyphenols and is Ecocert validated. It is therefore suitable both for nutricosmetics and green cosmetic formulations that require anti-inflammatory, antiageing, antioxidant and firming activity. The extract is also certified Kosher, Halal and GMP. The ingredient’s sustainable production process, beginning with the collection of Centella leaves in Madagascar, forms part of Indena’s commitment to creating and maintaining long-lasting relationships with local entities and populations. The Centella asiatica purified dry extract production process, which starts from the Centella leaves collection in Madagascar, is part of the Indena commitment to create and maintain long lasting relationships with local entities and population. The company will also present Bosexil; the Phytosome form of frankincense extract (a perfumed resin obtained from the Indian plant Boswellia serrata), which is rich in anti inflammatory and soothing active molecules, known as boswellic acids. A recent clinical study has underlined the soothing effect of the extract on sensitive skin as well as in more dermatologically severe conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Additional trials have indicated that the ingredient’s combination of DNA-protecting and anti-inflammatory properties may counteract photoaging and could be a new approach to counteract the inflammaging process (www.indena.com).
Taking Texture to the Market
Leading global chemical distributer, Univar Inc. (stand D20), has announced plans to intensify the focus of its personal care business on textures as part of the expansion of its business portfolio and technical capabilities. Philippe Villequey, personal care industry development manager, at EMEA explained: “Univar Personal Care’s offering has always been strong when it comes to textures. It is an important area of formulation because if a product’s texture is poor, it will not appeal to consumers. With new ingredients constantly being introduced to the market, customers can find it challenging to ensure a consistent and pleasing texture in their products. We have the product portfolio and technical formulation expertise to help our customers to overcome this obstacle and create textures that end-consumers will love.” The company will be showcasing a number of exciting formulations at the stand’s sensory bar, which will demonstrate the range of its texture palette. Innovations on display will include a new silicone gum from XIAMETER (PMX 1502 FLUID) and new products from Dow Corning, including two elastomers that provide enhanced compatibility with organic ingredients (Dow Corning EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend and Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend). The innovation zone will feature Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend, which, compared with traditional silicone elastomers, provides enhanced formulation flexibility through its ability to incorporate high levels of water and/or glycerine while retaining a gel structure and the typical elastomer feel. The stand will also showcase new products launched recently by Dow Personal Care, such as EcoSmooth Satin Conditioning Polymer and Ecosmooth Silk. The
MARCH/APRIL 2012
company’s dedicated personal care specialists will be on hand at in-cosmetics to demonstrate how Univar is able to simplify the complex textural issues common to the industry, as well as showcasing the company’s comprehensive range of personal care ingredients. Building on its global network of laboratories, technical expertise and shared best practice, Univar is able to offer its partners in the sector access to the latest products and innovative concepts from around the world (www.univar.com).
Eco Efficacy
IRB (stand X36) will be launching a new concept in plant stem cell ingredients: Powerful Stems. Its distinctive features include the characterization in a cell-line specific pattern of secondary metabolites and a guaranteed minimum amount of specific active substances. The titration of actives becomes the objective measure of the efficacy of plant stem cells and a reliable way of quantifying eco-sustainable benefits of this technology. This concept is the result of long and demanding R&D work that has established the biotechnological HTNTM platform as a viable and eco-friendly alternative source for the production of plant actives. IRB will also introduce Buddleja davidii stems GTM, which is now available with a standardized content of Verbascoside — a potent secondary metabolite that can to protect the skin against UVA damage owing to a wide spectrum of characteristics that include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and chelating properties. Since 2011, Leontopodium alpinum stems GTM has featured a guaranteed minimum amount of leontopodic acid A, one of the natural protective substances that allow Edelweiss, a rare plant growing in the Alps, to survive its native harsh environment. Leontopodic acid A is a strong antioxidant phenylpropanoid — three times more efficient than vitamin C — the very small natural presence of which has only recently been isolated in the plant (www. irbtech.com).
BREAKTHROUGH COSMETICS
Fix A140, which combines the ultimate hold with fast drying for the first time. Hairspray users worldwide are seek fast-drying products that can maintain a chosen style all day long. DSM’s (www.dsm.com) innovative new polymer enables rapid drying in combination with low tack — despite the formulation’s increased water content — and it’s hold properties have outperformed leading market benchmarks in professional hairdresser tests. This combination of fast drying and ultimate hold creates attractive new opportunities for product development and further insights into the ingredient will be presented at DSM’s innovation seminar. Following last year’s successful launch of REGU-FADE, the company will present new consumer-relevant data on the deep hydration power of its key skincare ingredient, PENTAVITIN. Although millions of consumers worldwide are buying moisturizing products, various consumer surveys indicate that they often fail to meet expectations, particularly in how long they last. As a result, dry skin continues to be the primary unmet body skincare need worldwide — and PENTAVITIN, a 100% natural, plant-derived ingredient, addresses it. Owing to its unique affinity to corneocytes, PENTAVITIN ensures instant, deep hydration and generates a moisture reservoir that lasts for at least 72 hours, strengthening the epithelial barrier and creating sustainable soft and smooth skin. DSM is also addressing the sun care theme and introducing its new ultimate UV protection concept, based on its leading UV filter brand, PARSOL, which boasts a long history of innovative and high-performing UVA and UVB filters. As a leading global supplier of UV filters, DSM offers a new approach to the ultimate UV protection for beach and day care products and claims that PARSOL offers unique benefits for consumers, as well as unmatched formulation know-how and technical support for customers. Jörg Richter, DSM’s senior director of global marketing in personal care, commented: “We are proud to showcase our latest developments in sun, hair and skincare products, which demonstrate our dedication to delivering innovations that truly make a difference to consumers.”
DSM (stand Q16) will launch a breakthrough hairspray polymer, TILAMAR
Aquabeautine® XL The Natural and Gentle Skin Refinisher A patented marine solution derived from “red caviar”, a gentle enzymatic alternative to AHAs proven to correct 6 signs of aging in vivo.
www.aquabiotechnology.com 2012 MARCH/APRIL
Stand No. N40 Presentation on 18th April, 10:30-11:00 Innovation Seminar Theatre 1 15
HAIR CARE
PuttingTressesto
the Test F
Jo Smewing, business development director at Stable Micro Systems, looks at an objective and nondestructive method that manufacturers can use to evaluate the effectiveness of hair care products. A new study deploys analytical technolog y that enables the industry to substantiate ambitious marketing claims about shampoos and conditioners that promise to leave hair soft and manageable.
or many people,
care products on the physical
bending force (Figure 1). After ten
luxurious locks are
characteristics of hair by measuring
movement cycles for each hair
their crowning glory
the bending force of a hair bundle
bundle, the average bending
and a source of great
as an indicator of a hair sample’s
force was calculated. Tests were
pride and pleasure.
softness. Stable Micro Systems’
done on each hair sample at
Personal grooming is an area that
texture analyser TA.XTPlus was used
a controlled temperature and
appears to be fairly recession-
to determine the bending modulus
humidity and the researchers
proof; in fact, in 2010, the buoyant
of Caucasian dark brown hair,
looked into the effects of cosmetic
UK hair care industry reached £709
Oriental black hair and bleach-
treatments on changes in bending
million.1 Even when times are hard,
damaged hair samples, in addition
force after different shampoo
consumers want to look their best
to comparing results before and
treatments and relative
and often see personal toiletries
after the application of hair
humidity (RH) levels.
and cosmetics as affordable treats.
treatments.
Shampoos, conditioners and their commodity status and are increasingly being released under
To prepare the samples, tresses of
the effects of humidity on hair
luxury brand names, commanding
hair were gathered from each of
softness and tests revealed that
premium prices. However, amidst
the three hair types and divided
the effect of moisture levels varies
the flurry of advertising claims that
into two bundles — one to undergo
between hair types. Its greatest
promise salon-quality hair care, the
treatment, the second to be
effect was on commercially
efficacy of many products on the
used as a control. For the tests
bleached hair, which has a more
market remains uncertain.
themselves, the texture analyser
porous hair structure —and thus
was used in a modified three
higher water absorbency — as
The Look and Feel of Beauty
point bend mode. The hair bundle
a result of the bleaching process
was clamped at one end and
(Figure 2). Hair samples across the
Softness is generally held as a
the remaining length placed on
board became softer as humidity
sign of healthy, well-conditioned
two supports before the analyser
levels increased.
hair — but how is hair softness
probe descended vertically on
The second aspect of the
objectively determined? A recent
the sample, applying pressure
study looked into the effects of
study by T. Gao et al. set out to
to the central section of the hair
bleach oxidation and hair care
establish the impact of personal
bundle to determine its maximum
products on clean, virgin and
Figure 1: Determining the maximum bending force of hair.
16
A Soft Spot for Healthy Hair
Preparation and Testing
hair treatments have overcome
First, Gao and his team examined
Figure 2: The effect of moisture levels on different hair types.
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Quaternium-91. Of ten virgin
conditions, texture analysis was
dark brown hair samples, half
recognized as a suitable method
were treated with a commercial
for scientifically evaluating the
shampoo, which resulted in a
softening performance of hair care
15.7% drop in bending force. The
products. The results revealed that
other half, treated with the test
oxidation following hair bleaching,
shampoo, demonstrated a 19.2%
in addition to heightened
fall in bending force. These results
environmental moisture levels
showed the shampoo containing
owing to humidity, has a significant
Quaternium-91 clearly improved
effect on the measurable
hair softness.
bending force, particularly where damaged hair is concerned.
Conclusion
Manufacturers now have a means
Following tests to determine the
to truly substantiate the persuasive
bending force of hair samples
beauty claims that so appeal to
under different treatment
consumers. PHM
Figure 3: The effects of bleach oxidation and hair care products on clean, virgin and commercially bleached hair. commercially bleached hair by
to friction; as a result, it generates
comparing the bending force of
static electricity, meaning that
the hair samples before and after
severe hair surface damage
treatment. The virgin hair samples
is characterized by a greater
were immersed in a bleaching
prevalence of negatively charged
solution of 6% hydrogen peroxide
sites that affect the overall softness.
for 30 minutes, washed with tap
Quaternium-91 treatments carry
water, dried overnight and soaked
positively charged quaternized
in a hair conditioner containing
surfactants (quats) that remain
Quaternium-91 (derived from
on the hair via electrostatic
hydrogenated tallow products).
interactions. Positively charged
The key components of this hair-
when placed in a solution of water,
softening ingredient — di-alkyl
these ingredients are attracted
imidazoline quaternaries — have
to the negatively charged,
superior softening properties that
damaged protein sites on the
have been used for some time in
hair and this positive/negative
fabric softeners. Quaternium-91
interaction prevents them from
is now being applied to personal
being removed. On contact with
care applications in which softness
hair, they coat the fibres to reduce
is also of value. Analysis showed
static charges, improve shine and
that oxidation occurring during
protect it from future damage to
the bleaching process reduced
result in a smoother, softer feel to
softness and increased the
the hair. This is supported by the
average bending force of newly-
texture analysis measurements,
bleached hair by 7.5% — however,
which reveal that commercially
application of the conditioning
bleached hair showed the largest
treatment was associated with a
improvement in softness following
16% reduction of this force. These
conditioning treatment.
results demonstrate that bleaching
Finally, the researchers
decreases the softness of hair but,
compared the softening
by conditioning, this effect may be
effects of two
reversed and hair softness actually
shampoos, one of
improved.
which contained
In contrast, the bending force of commercially bleached hair samples was reduced by 27% after being treated with the conditioner, demonstrating that oxidation is more severe in hair that has been frequently bleached during a long period of time (Figure 3). Regular bleaching dries out the hair, making it brittle and prone
2012 MARCH/APRIL
References
1. Mintel, “Shampoo, Conditioners and Treatments, UK, April 2011:” www.mintel.com.
For more information Jo Smewing Business Development Director Stable Micro Systems www.stablemicrosystems.com
17
Spring Shoots
HAIR CARE
The importance placed on scalp hair as a key component of beauty has resulted in the regulation and promotion of hair growth being a matter of huge importance to younger and middle-aged populations worldwide. Of the variety of problems associated with hair loss, maletype baldness, alopecia and telogen effluvium are just three of the most distressing examples. The regulation of hair growth depends on a host of complex factors of both intrinsic and extrinsic origin and, despite its potential impact on individuals, it is currently managed using methods that remain unsatisfactory. A recent study has harnessed traditional knowledge and pitted it against clinically accepted hair technolog y.
T
he simplest means of addressing the issue of hair loss is
continuous drug dependency
growth and providing benefits
to substitute and
that is required to minimize hair
such as improved hair condition,
camouflage lost
fall. As the search for newer and
reduced hair fall and prevention
hair through the use of wigs but,
more acceptable hair growth
of the premature greying of hair.
owing to their indiscretion, they
promoting agents continues, one
A previous study had confirmed
have a limited rate of acceptance
study has turned to traditional
that the use of a cream and oil
by sufferers. More effective and
medicinal knowledge for
based on the same active plant
less obvious, hair weaving and hair
alternative solutions.
ingredients increased the protein
transplantation exist as alternative
synthesis responsible for hair growth
for Dr JRK’s Siddha Research
through mRNA expression. This
and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd,
study went one step further; the
investigates the claims made
extracts were individually prepared
by the ancient Indian medical
in coconut oil in accordance with
practice, the Siddha system of
traditional Siddha methods and
medicine, for the unique hair
mixed to obtain a poly herbal oil.
growth promoting properties of
This oil was subsequently included
several medicinal plants. The effect
as a constituent active ingredient in
modes of managing the problem.
of a study gel containing extracts
a hair gel preparation and studied
This efficacy, however, comes at
from these plants was examined
for its hair growth promoting effects.
a financial cost which is all too
and compared in its effectiveness
often too high for the average
with a 2% Minodixil formulation in
The Experiment
person to bear. Among the known
an experimental animal model.
Wister rats of both sexes were used
Should rapidity of growth come at the price of potential allergic reactions and drug dependency?
hair growth promoting agents,
18
The study in question, conducted
Extracts from Phyllanthus
for the non-invasive, non-sacrificial
Minoxidil-based preparations are
emblica, Bergamiia koenigii,
study that received approval
supported by reliable scientific
Lawsonia alba, Indigo tinctoria
from an ethical committee. The
evidence and clinical trials, but
and Eclipta prostrate have long
animals, which were divided into
their performance is nevertheless
been associated in the Siddha
four groups of six, were situated in a
hindered by side-effects and the
system with promoting hair
rat house that was set to 24–25 °C,
MARCH/APRIL 2012
provided with food and water ad
completion time in comparison
though rapidly grown, was thin
libitum and received an equal
with the control, suggesting that
and highly irregular. In addition
portion of the day/night cycle.
the plant extracts worked to
to this difference in quality, the
The hair of the dorsal portion of
increase the speed of hair growth
side-effects associated with the
each animal was removed with a
in the subjects.
continued use of Minoxidil must
standard depilatory cream and
be considered; should rapidity
the four groups were treated as
The Results
of growth come at the price of
follows; the first with a placebo
The results of this study allow
potential allergic reactions and
gel, the second with the study
several interesting conclusions to
drug dependency?
formulation, the third with the
be drawn. Most obviously, they
2% Minoxidil formulation and
reveal that the study formulation
attributed by the scientists
the fourth served as a control.
gel has a positive effect on
involved to hair root enhancement
The relevant test materials were
hair growth that is comparable
brought about by the study
applied to each group once daily
with a 2% Minoxidil application.
formulation, a theory supported
for a 30 day period.
Although in comparison the
by the aforementioned previous
herbal formulation appears to
study. The fact that the plant
was observed in all animals. Hair
have a limited effect, it may
extracts contained in the poly
growth initiation time (HGIT), which
actually exhibit a similar activity
herbal gel have a long history of
pertains to new hair growth in the
that is overlooked in the murine
use in various healthcare practices
depilated area that is identical to
model, providing as it does only
means it can be assumed that
the rest of the hair on the body,
qualitative indications of efficacy.
they may be used safely and
and hair growth completion
Furthermore, a difference was
effectively in managing hair fall
time (HGCT) were also recorded.
recorded between the quality of
problems. Although it remains for
Results revealed that the poly
the hair grown in the two groups;
further studies to be undertaken,
herbal gel reduced HGCT by
the texture of the hair grown
these results may mean that future
30%, compared with the 53%
after treatment with the study
responses to hair loss may be
reduction in time brought about
formulation was soft, silky and
effective, economically viable
by the Minoxidil formulation. The
shiny in comparison with that in
and avoid the pitfalls of drug
placebo did not effect hair growth
the Minoxidil treated group which,
reliance. PHM
The pattern of hair growth
2012 MARCH/APRIL
The recorded effects are
Authors
• J.R. Krishnamoorthy, Dr JRK’s Siddha Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India • R. Sumithira, Department of Microbiology, Dr MGR-Janaki College of Arts and Science, Chennai, India • S. Gokulshankar, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia • M.S. Ranjith, Microbiology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia • S. Ranganathan, Dr JRK’s Siddha Research and Pharmaceuticals Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India • B.K. Mohanty, Pharmacology Unit, Faculty of Medicine, AIMST University, Kedah, Malaysia
For more information Dr S. Gokulshankar Faculty of Medicine AIMST University gokkavi@gmail.com
This article is based on a paper originally published in the Journal of Applied Cosmetology 28(4), 147–151 (2010).
19
ANTIAGEING
Turning the tide OF Ageing
E
The ocean tidal zone is an extreme environment in which only a select few species are able to survive and flourish. One of these is Porphyridium sp. red microalga — and it took more than 20 years of research (led by Professor Shoshana Arad of Ben Gurion University) to uncover the secret of its survival.
ventually, it was
patented cultivation process
conducted on algae cells in
different interactions within the
revealed that
of Porphyridium sp. for the
their proliferation stage showed
molecule, which accounts for its
the microalga’s
production of Alguard — a
that although they could be
stability in changing conditions.
cells emit a
purified form of the protective
damaged when exposed to high
Thus, its composition and rheology
polysaccharide to
exo-polysaccharide.
light intensity, this was prevented
are very stable at a range of
by the external addition of the
temperatures (up to 1600 °C), pH
protective polysaccharide,
(2–9) and salinities.
their immediate surroundings, creating a unique protective environment that allows it to flourish. These environmental
Unique Biophysical Properties During their proliferation
imitating its natural production by the resting cells. This indicated that
Sustainable Growth
fluctuations are also inflicted
stage, algae cells undergo rapid
the algae survival mechanism is
on human skin and lead
duplication and do not produce
achieved through the work of the
polysaccharide (through a
to ageing and loss of
the polysaccharide; only in their
polysaccharide, rather than being
patented cultivation system
vitality; to combat this, the
resting phase do they release it
linked directly to the algae cells.
of Porphyridium sp.) to benefit
polysaccharide’s natural
into their surroundings to create
protective effect on algae
an active shield. This protective
to its unique and complex
growth in its initial stages, the
is being mimicked to benefit
environment helps to counter
structure, which is still only
algae are cultivated in a strictly
skincare. After establishing
the extreme environmental
partially known. It is a large
controlled indoor environment of
its structure and bio-physical
changes typical to its habitat:
hydrogel hetero-polymer with
artificial sea water that contains
properties, in addition to its
salinity shifts, temperature flux,
a molecular mass of 3–5 x 106
only minerals and nutrients. As
positive effects on the skin,
exposure to strong light and UV
Da. Its structure is composed of
production of the polysaccharide,
Professor Arad developed a
irradiation intensity. An experiment
70–80% natural sugars (such as
rather than algae growth, is the
xylose, glucose and galactose),
aim of this process, the algae
20% bioactive groups (mainly
are not harvested at this stage
sulfated monosaccharides, plus
but moved outside to begin
glucoronic acid) and 5% integral
a stationary growth phase in
glycoprotein, which is non-
specially designed sleeves that
covalently bound to the molecule.
are exposed to the unique
Rheological studies indicate
climate conditions. The changing
that the polysaccharide has a
temperatures and intense light
folded, flexible helical structure
induce the algae to utilize
and exhibits high viscosity at low
nutrients and minerals to produce
concentrations, which is important
the protective polysaccharide
in creating a viscous environment
shield.
Algae growth utilizes carbon dioxide as part of the polysaccharide production and produces oxygen, which is released into the environment
This protective role is attributed
in the cell proximities and enabling
cosmetic applications. For robust
As they grow, the algae turn
it to be highly active in very low
a vivid red colour, although it is
concentrations.
the viscosity of the water that
It is also characterized by
20
Frutarom utilizes this
is monitored rather than the
a delicate balance between
rate of growth itself. The point of
negatively and positively
maximal viscosity indicates that
charged active groups, which,
the polysaccharide production
in combination with its flexible
has reached the desired level
structure, allows the molecule
and it is physically separated from
to remain organized when
the water in a natural purification
smeared or pressed onto a
process. These processes are
surface. This is a contrast with
natural, environmentally friendly
other polysaccharides, which
and do not involve the addition
will typically become loose
of any reagents or exploit natural
and disorganized under these
resources. On the contrary, algae
conditions. The complex,
growth utilizes carbon dioxide as
balanced structure results in
part of polysaccharide production
MARCH/APRIL 2012
and produces oxygen, which is
long-term protective effects and
released into the environment.
immediate visible lifting effects.
The final product is Alguard, a
The former are attributed to the
water-soluble, white/beige viscous
creation of an organized mesh
hydrogel with a silky texture. The
when the ingredient is smeared on
purification process separates it
the skin, which offers protection
from the surrounding water, which
from the following: irritants and
guarantees that it contains only
oxidative damage that lead
the polysaccharide and allows
to a process of inflammation
reduction of skin roughness. When
soluble polysaccharide, resulted in
the biological mimicking of the
and accelerate skin ageing;
80 µL of 5% Alguard was applied
an easy to handle ingredient that,
active shield for skin protection
UVB radiation damage and
to the crow’s feet of 10 women,
owing to its unique properties,
applications. Some biomass
the accumulation of bacteria.
a 20% decrease in wrinkle length
can be combined in almost all
products claim to contain 40–50%
An example of this effect was
and depth and a 24% reduction
formulations. This combination of
polysaccharide in their dry mass;
seen when culture cells were
in skin roughness was observed
an anclient algal survival secret,
however, this will not typically
exposed to the strong abrasive
as early as 30 minutes after
undeniable effects, sustainable
be as water-soluble as Alguard
agent, FeSO4; whereas this would
application. The effect remained
growth and an ecologically
and will be without the unique
usually result in cell damage, cells
stable for at least 60 minutes
sound production process make
structure and qualities that make
protected by Alguard remained
(Figure 1).
Alguard a truly unprecedented
it easy to handle and allow it
viable and intact.
to be combined in almost all
From the first application,
Before
To conclude, after extensive
Alguard claims to promote
properties — naturally evolved to
processes.
a visible lifting of the skin by
protect the algae from extreme
homogenously adhering to
environmental changes — were
its surface so that, as water
shown to confer similar protection
evaporates, the association
against different aggressors,
protective role in nature, Alguard
between polysaccharide chains
on the human skin. A unique
has beneficial effects on the
is increased, resulting in a lifting
production process, developed
In a similar manner to its
human skin, possessing both
A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1
development. PHM
research Alguard’s unique
formulations and production
Cosmetic Applications
After 30 minutes
Figure 1: The effects of Alguard on crow’s feet.
of fine lines and wrinkles and a 07.09.2010 15:23 Uhr Seite 3to obtain this protective, water-
For more information Anat Stern Product Manager Cosmetic Ingredients Frutarom astern@frutarom.com www.frutarom.com
www.stolz-concept.de
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com 2012 MARCH/APRIL
21
FORMULATION
of power mother nature The
Oleosomes are naturally occurring microspheres of plant seed oils and vitamin E that function as powerful, clinically mild emulsifiers and proven delivery systems of actives. They can also be leveraged to boost SPF values in traditional (organic) daily wear skin products and to reduce whitening and provide water-resistant benefits in natural mineral sunscreens.
P
lants have evolved
supplier Botaneco has
ionic emulsifiers. Furthermore,
oleosomes
developed and patented a
they have been shown to
throughout
large-scale manufacturing
exhibit transient emulsification.
millions of years as
process, which has recently
This unique attribute results
structures to store
been certified as organic
in formulations that are
and protect the energy source
by the USDA NOP, to isolate
exceptionally mild on the skin — a
(namely vegetable oil) that
oleosomes from a variety of
stark contrast with low molecular
drives the germination process.
seeds.
weight synthetic non-ionic emulsifiers, which can penetrate
They are found naturally in all oil-bearing seeds, including oilseeds (such as safflower
Powerfully Mild As a result of their unique
the skin and cause TEWL. These outstanding
and sunflower) and nuts
structure and oleosin protein
emulsification benefits can
(almonds, for example). These
coat, oleosomes function as
be leveraged in moisturizers,
microspheres are spheres
broad HLB natural emulsifiers
cleansers and even mineral
of 1–3 µm and consist of an
and can be used to prepare
sunscreens, where (incorporating
inner core of triglycerides
virtually any type of personal
non-nano ZnO and TiO2)
and antioxidant vitamin E,
care emulsion. Their operational
oleosomes aid the dispersion of
surrounded by a monolayer of
HLB typically ranges from 5–15,
pigment to reduce whitening on
phospholipids and encased
with an optimum of 8–13. The
the skin, in addition to providing
in an oleosin protein coat.
most powerful grade, obtained
an intrinsic water-resistant film
Oleosins are 25 kDa proteins
from safflower seeds, is capable
without requiring film formers or
that include both hydrophilic
of emulsifying at a ratio of 1:3,
polymers. For example, an SPF50+
and hydrophobic domains
allowing formulators to make
formula with oleosomes (018-111)
and lend extraordinary
emulsions using a 5% Oleosome
has passed 80 minute water-
emulsification ability to these
ingredient for a total oil phase
resistance in vivo and is classified
structures. Natural ingredients
of 20%, with no synthetic non-
as broad spectrum.
22
MARCH/APRIL 2012
INGREDIENTS
Wt %
PHASE A Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes + water (Hydresia SF2, Botaneco)*
11.50
Ethyhexyl methoxycinnamate (Uvinul MC8o, BASF)
2.00
Fragrance
0.50 protection of oil actives from
PHASE B C12-25 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN, Innospec Active Chemicals, LLC) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, DSM)
5.00 0.50
are natural microspheres from
of oil actives into the skin and
plant seeds, isolated according
prolonging the on-skin residence
to a patented USDA organic
time of fragrances or essential oils.
manufacturing process, which
Oleosomes can also be
PHASE C Di water
qs
Preservative
qs
Ammonium acyloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant)
1.10
*Hydresia PE can be used at 10% 1. Mix phase A under a propeller mixer for 20 minutes at 400 rpm. 2. Premix phase B, heat to 40 °C and slowly add to phase A. 3. Add phase C in order of appearance. 4. Slowly add water and increase speed to 600–700 rpm. 5. Add preservative and adjust pH if needed to 5.5–6.0. 6. Finish with Aristoflex AVC, mix for 20 minutes or until uniform.
Figure 1: A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer.
function as powerful, clinically
of traditional daily wear
mild emulsifiers and proven
products with enhanced UV
delivery systems of actives that
protection to provide dramatic
can also boost SPF values. Several
SPF-boosting advantages.
grades from safflower seeds
Botaneco has discovered that
and almond nuts, including a
when UVB chromophores (such
USDA NOP organic version, are
as octylmethoxycinnamate
available from Botaneco or its
OMC or octocrylene) are
distribution partners. PHM
loaded inside oleosomes and physically separated from UVA chromophores (for example Avobenzone), formulators can low concentrations of sunscreen.
locked within their spherical
A 016-147 SPF30 daily moisturizer
structures, they have been
(Figure 1) contains only 2% OMC
structures that can provide oil-
proven to absorb and protect
and 0.5% Avobenzone and has
soluble actives with antioxidant
actives such as retinol, UVB
had its efficacy confirmed in a 20
protection. Naturally containing
chromophores and fragrances
person FDA Static SPF in vivo test,
approximately 60 mg–100 g of
or essential oils. Possible delivery
in addition to a 5 person COLIPA
vitamin E (alpha Tocopherol)
system applications include the
SPF in vivo study.
Oleosomes are natural
2012 MARCH/APRIL
have been demonstrated to
leveraged in the formulation
achieve very high SPF values with
Proven Power
To summarize, oleosomes
degradation, the gradual release
Authors
Tony Abboud, Director of Sales and Marketing Dr Jack Guth VP of R&D
For more information
Tony Abboud, Director of Sales and Marketing Botaneco Corp. abboudt@botaneco.ca www.botanecocorp.com
23
FORMULATION
SENSORY Sensations For all its positive connotations, the term ‘natural’ does not always resonate ‘luxury’ in the minds of consumers. Indeed, in the past, it has been associated with a movement away from the artificial luxuriousness — which may come at an ethical, environmental and even physical price — of the cosmetics industry.
P
erhaps the
possibility of diferentiating
a gentle feel means it is ideal for
rehydration of damaged, dry,
purveyors of
themselves further from the
hypoallergenic products. Easily
mature skin. Unlike many natural
natural products
competition and winning over
incorporated into formulations,
solutions, ingredients in this range
have expended
unconvinced consumers.
the liquid ingredient targets
combine different functions to
the typical silicone application
provide ease of use to personal
so much of their
Combining “natural origins
marketing and formulation
with advanced sensory effects“
areas of cleansing and rinse-
care manufacturers and fall
energy on convincing
is Clariant’s stated remit in its
off applications (including hair
into two categories; Vitipure
consumers of their competitive
new Touch of Nature range of
shampoos and treatments)
Feeling for skincare cosmetics
efficicay and unrivalled ethical
ingredients for skin, body and hair
and can replace standard
and Vitipure Sensation, a refined
credentials that they have
care formulations. The result of
conditioning ingredients
grade for colour cosmetics.
sometimes forgotten that
a collaboration with biorefinery
such as cationic polymers
Tackling the specific needs of
the cosmetic industry is also
product manufacturer KitoZyme,
(polyquaternium) and quaternary
sensitive, dry or mature skin, their
driven by indulgence. And
the ingredients comprise three
ammonium compounds (genamin
potential applications encompass
in hard financial times, the
product lines — Vitipure, Velsan
BTLF — behentrimonium chloride).
everything from baby care to age
idea of an affordable treat
and Zenvivo — which offer
It boasts foam-boosting properties
repair formulations and include
may prove a bigger draw
vegetal alternatives that won’t
and so helps to promote a
fluids, creams and lotions for body
than ever to consumers who
let the sensory side down. The
pleasant, creamy foam for
and face. Potential market sectors
have had to relinquish some
range sets a new benchmark
facial and body washes and is
they can address include day,
of life’s other luxuries. This was
for the production of vegetal
suitable for ‘caring’ and leave-
night, eye, sun and aftershave
attested to by Fabio Rosello,
Chitosan, Chitin-Glucan and their
on applications such as body
care — in addition to the skin
head of the Italian Cosmetics
derivatives. Sourced by selected
lotions, sun care, make-up and
whitening innovations that are
Industry Association, who
suppliers that meet purity, quality
deodorants/antiperspirants, where
favoured by the Asian market.
highlighted the industry’s
and traceability requirements,
it enhances the spreading of the
flying in the face of potential
the products are created from
formulation, wets the pigments or
market’s only vegetal-based
economic meltdown to actually
fully renewable, non-GMO and
reduces the tackiness to enhance
chitosan, Zenvivo, which avoids
increase turnover, attributing
traceable fungi and comply with
the overall sensory feel.
the disadvantages of animal-
it to the status of cosmetics
GMP (FDA and EMEA), HACCP and
as an essential comfort that
ISO9001: 2008.
consumers are “unwilling to do without.“ Natural and organic products
based chitosan, is non-allergenic,
Pure Class Next in line is Vitipure, billed as
Softly Softly Velsan Soft provides a natural,
Clariant also boast the
highly reproducible and safe and is available in two grades
a solution for complete skin repair
with different molecular weights.
and protection. Its ingredients
Zenvivo Protect is a low molecular
are still the fastest growing
vegetal replacement for
stimulate key cells in the immune
grade for enhanced antimicrobial
market sector and seem a sure
silicones that sacrifices neither
system, restoring the skin barrier
properties, from malodor
fire recipe for success — but, as
effectiveness nor aesthetics.
and effecting a long-term
reduction in mouthwashes to
is the case with any mega trend,
It boosts wetting and foaming
rebuilding and restructuring of the
deodorant efficacy and the
there will come a saturation
properties to achieve a stable,
skin cells. Some of the potential
preservation of cosmetic products,
point. If formulations can imbue
creamy foam with a luxurious feel;
benefits are wrinkle reduction,
which can be used across the
this platform with a sense of
its combination of moisturizing
enhanced skin elasticity and
complete spectrum of skin and
extravagence, they open the
and conditioning benefits with
firmness and a rebalancing and
hair care applications. Zenvivo
24
MARCH/APRIL 2012
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FORMULATION
Aqua is a high molecular grade
and costs of future product
that is suitable as a film former in
development. By attaining ISO
hair styling, sun care or decorative
22716, Clariant’s processes also
cosmetics or as a conditioning
fulfill European guidelines for
agent for leave-on and rinse-off
cosmetics production. Ralf Zerrer,
skin and hair care formulations.
head of strategic marketing
Mauro Bergamasco, head of
of industrial and consumer
global marketing of industrial
specialties, described the
and consumer specialties at
company as “proud“ of the
Clariant, commented on the
accomplishment and claimed
range of offerings: “We are
that it signifies ”a further milestone
delighted to offer the personal
in our strategy for the personal
care market a unique range of
care segment.” He went to
natural-based ingredients that
on argue that it represents
combine moisturizing, repairing
“more than just an indication of
and protecting effects with an
process quality” and will allow
extraordinarily gentle feel for
the company to become a
skin and hair. Inspired by nature,
stronger link in the value chain
our customers will be able to
of customers, who “can rely on
fulfill consumers’ desire for purity,
Clariant to offer the transparency
effectiveness and luxury, to set
and consistency they need to
themselves apart in the personal
increase their speed to market
care industry.”
for existing and new cosmetics formulations.“
GOING THE EXTRA MILE On a related note, Clariant has
Mauro Bergamasco, head of global marketing for industrial
recently “gone the extra mile“ for
and consumer specialties,
its cosmetics industry customers
explained that Clariant’s
by achieving global ISO 22716
“portfolio of cosmetics ingredients
Cosmetics Good Manufacturing
embraces the sector’s efficiency,
Practice (GMP) certification for
environmental and safety
its global management system.
challenges and our formulation
Reinforcing Clariant’s ambition
expertise can add real value
to continue as a leading partner
to the creation of exciting and
for the personal care industry,
sustainable innovations for the
this certification guarantees
consumer market.”
globally consistent products and
Implementing a system to
processes that will support more
guarantee globally harmonized
efficient product development
products and processes for the
by customers. The reference
personal care industry is a key
standard is primarily held by
element of Clariant’s strategic
cosmetics producers and ensures
repositioning, which also
deliverance of the highest
includes bolt-on acquisitions and
quality products by the sector.
partnerships with leading industry
Achieving it has not been a walk
players such as KitoZyme and
in the park for Clariant: it has
Oberhausen Technology Center.
taken 10 months and the efforts
Using all the tools at its disposal,
of hundreds of employees to
the company is determined to
initiate the Cosmetics GMP across
help its customers to provide
the business. Standardization
consumers with products that
of production, quality control
combine luxury with natural
and warehouse and logistic
credentials. PHM
procedures mean customers can be confident of globally consisitant processes, services, product quality and availability at a local level. Customers will benefit from a more transparent relationship to support their global production and reduce the complexity
26
For more information
Dominik Schneider Media Relations Clariant International Ltd +41 6146 953 62 dominiks.schneider@clariant.com
MARCH/APRIL 2012
tra the do P c e w o n ’t l u s ut rl m ic d- is al le s co ad nf ing er en ce nu
Inspiring innovations in ingredients The global event for nutraceutical ingredients, functional food and drinks and dietary supplements • Source 1000s of innovative products • Keep up to date with the latest trends • Network with peers from over 92 visiting countries
• Finalise business deals • Meet with over 500 leading suppliers • Includes free entry to Finished Products Expo
Register online now for FREE at
www.vitafoods.eu.com/pureh Supported by
2012 MARCH/APRIL
Organised by
Portfolio includes
27
Skincare
at the The Light end of the Tunnel For years, acne sufferers struggling to control outbreaks have turned to a wide range of treatments for help — from antibiotics and topical creams to contraceptive pills and expensive face washes. Here Dr Sam Robson, who has been working with patients suffering with acne for more than 15 years, explains the advantages of a new approach.
M
any of my
time, can be used at home.
improvement in her skin and
patients
Lustre is a small, rechargeable
on completion of treatment
have “tried
product with slim, flexible heads
her skin is smoother, more even
everything”
that are gently attached to the
in texture and with reduced
to help their
skin to directly target problem
breakouts. Her previously ‘angry’
skin but only found temporary
areas. The device is portable
looking skin is now calmer and
relief. They come to my clinic
and treatment is delivered while
the improvement is clear to
hoping to find a more long-term
the product is worn, giving
see in before and after photos.
solution to help to manage their
users the freedom to get on
In addition, the success of the
skin problems. I’ve been using
with everyday life. For the best
treatment has transformed
blue light to treat acne for many
results, we encourage patients
Helen’s self-confidence and selfesteem. She is going to continue
It’s a proven technology and championed by leading dermatologists and physicists for its capacity to destroy acne-causing bacteria.
to use Lustre Pure Light to control
Author
Dr Sam Robson, MBChB, MRCGP Member of the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors. Temple Aesthetics is based in Aberdeen.
For more information
Gary Conroy Sales and Marketing Director Ambicare Health gary.conroy@ambicarehealth.com www.lustrepurelight.com
her acne and describes finally having clearer skin as “a dream come true.” Helen’s story is typical of many young women with acne. I’m convinced of the efficacy of blue light treatment and being able to use it at home is of huge benefit to patients.
years; it’s a proven technology
to use the device for about half
Not only has this product and
and championed by leading
an hour a day and, because
technology registered great
dermatologists and physicists for
it’s designed to work alongside
success, it also taps into the
its capacity to destroy acne-
existing acne therapies, patients
concerns that many acne
causing bacteria.
can continue to use favourite
sufferers have about treatment
products if they want to or, if
side-effects. Ambicare Health
for a consultation and begin
necessary, come to the clinic for
recently conducted research
a 16 week course of blue light
additional treatments on a less
among young women who
treatment in the clinic. Although
regular basis.
have acne and two thirds
Typically, patients will come
undeniably effective, the
To be able to apply clinically
of those polled cited this
commitment to making twice
proven blue light technology
as a worry. A growing
weekly clinic visits is an issue for
in an at-home device is a
number of our patients
busy acne sufferers. An increasing
significant breakthrough in the
at Temple Aesthetics
number of women in their 20s and
treatment of acne — and we’re
have similar concerns
30s are suffering from acne and
experiencing fantastic results
about the adverse
the patients I’ve treated in that
already. One patient, Helen,
side-effects of some
age bracket are almost always
came to Temple Aesthetics
treatments, in addition
short of time — juggling stressful
having suffered from acne
to the potential long-
jobs and family commitments.
for 12 years and told me that
term risks associated
They want to find a way to control
her skin problems made her
with constant use of
their acne but coming to the
feel “ugly, depressed, lacking
certain medications.
clinic for an hour in the middle of
confidence and self-conscious.”
Lustre addresses this issue
their day just isn’t practical.
During the previous decade,
by offering a completely
Helen had tried a huge range of
safe solution for acne. For
Ambicare Health launched
treatments but nothing worked.
me, it’s yet another reason
Lustre Pure Light, a blue light
After only five treatments with
to recommend that patients
treatment which, for the first
blue light, she noticed an
try the device. PHM
About 3 months ago,
28
MARCH/APRIL 2012
SKINCARE
From
BOTOXto
NO-TOX
The happy circumstance of increasing life expectancy has given rise to a growing pool of people that are seeking new ways to carry their health, youth and vitality with them into their later years. And, from antiageing creams to botox, products and treatments that claim to prevent the outward signs of ageing are a key part of this effort. Renowned Harley Street clinician Dr Dapeng Zhang explains the benefits of a more natural approach.
30
MARCH/APRIL 2012
U
nfortunately, the signs aren’t all good;
FROM CAUSE TO EFFECT Increasingly sought after
collagen depletion and elastin breakdown to prevent sagging, in addition to stimulating
news reports
in recent years as one of the
cellular growth to regenerate
frequently
best natural alternatives to
firm skin cells and provide a
reveal that many of these
conventional antiageing
antiageing solutions are inferior,
treatments, beauty acupuncture
fail to perform and may even
addresses both the causes and
cause unwelcome side-effects.
effects of premature ageing and
One of the most publicized
provides a much more profound
of available treatments is
and long-lasting outcome. The
formulated from botulism
process involves analysing and
bacteria and injected into
‘charting’ the subject’s face
the skin to paralyse the nerves
before acupuncture needles
beneath: botox. The reduction
are applied to specific points
of the appearance of fine lines
and areas, the effect of which
that it delivers lasts for a few
is to stimulate the body’s ability
months, but its financial cost
to heal itself by enhancing
of £200 –£300 is apparently
blood and lymph flow. After
not the only price to be paid.
comprehensive detailing of
A number of recipients have
a patient’s health history,
reported a range of worrying
shiatsu and facial massage
tightening effect. Furthermore,
side-effects; drooping eyelids,
are also administered as part
customers will notice results
muscle weakness or spasms
of treatment. In addition,
after just one session. Used in
and sweating have been
reflexology is employed owing
the treatment of arthritis since
associated with this potent
to its benefits as a whole-body
the 1920s, gold also reduces
neurotoxin — and its long-
treatment that addresses
skin and body inflammation,
term effects are still largely
underlying health issues and,
slowing melanin secretion and
unknown. Worryingly, scientists
as a consequence, any skin
reducing age spots.
have recently cast doubt
problems that reflect them.
on practitioners’ traditional,
Treatment with acupuncture
Treatment with acupuncture accelerates the natural drainage of toxins, increasing the surge of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, escalating collagen production and strengthening elastin fibres.
Hailed as one of the best natural alternatives to Botox,
reassuring belief that botox
accelerates the natural
cosmetic acupuncture
does not cross the blood/brain
drainage of toxins, increasing
has already attracted the
barrier. If that weren’t enough
the surge of oxygen and
attention of a number of
motivation for consumers to
nutrients to the skin, escalating
high-profile individuals who
seek an alternative, the FDA has
collagen production and
wish to maintain or improve
also reported fatalities linked to
strengthening elastin fibres.
an image that is of paramount
the injections.
The overall anti-inflammatory
importance to their careers. It
response of the skin is calmed
has inspired loyalty in a range
in addition!) to antiageing
to reduce puffiness in the eye
of customers who, having
creams could well be looking
area and stimulate facial
experienced its benefits, enjoy
for a solution in the wrong
muscles, increasing tone and
an overall improvement in
place; priced anywhere
suppleness. By addressing
health and well-being that is
between £16–£220, these
the causes, as opposed to
not only effective but, most
miracle pots that claim to hold
merely the visible results, of
importantly, safe.
the key to youthful skin often
premature ageing, beauty
only result in a barely visible
acupuncture works to prevent
acupuncture, my extensive
10% line reduction. At least we
the formation of new wrinkles
study of traditional Chinese
know price isn’t everything —
and minimize existing lines by
medicine has allowed me to
numerous consumer reports
enhancing the skin’s innate
successfully treat patients for
have indicated that cheaper
ability to regenerate a plumper,
a variety of health concerns,
moisturizing creams tend to
smoother, more radiant and
including multiple sclerosis (MS),
be as successful as their more
rejuvenated face.
cancer, infertility and arthritis.
Those who turn instead (or
expensive counterparts. But consumers need not lose heart, there is good news: alternative
PHM
THE MIDAS TOUCH At my clinic on Harley Street,
natural and cost-effective
I offer a luxurious treatment
ways to prevent premature
using 24 carat pure gold
ageing are becoming more
needles. The considerable
readily available — and beauty
advantages of gold principally
acupuncture is among them.
relate to its ability to slow
2012 MARCH/APRIL
In addition to beauty
For more information
Dr Dapeng Zhang Tel. +44 7766 495 158 dapeng@dapengclinic.com www.dapengclinic.com
31
INDUSTRY TRENDS
Feeding
Cosmetic
Trends
If one looks at consumers’ expectations of modern cosmetics, it is possible to identify a demand for both tradition and innovation — and the perfect approach to meeting these is the combination of nature and science. Natural ingredients, particularly botanical extracts, arouse feelings of reassurance and comfort and, in combination with scientific research and delivery methods, promote and protect beauty. Three plant categories in particular are worth investigating for their interesting ingredients: ‘super fruits,’ ‘super vegetables’ and healthy grains. A Vital Boost
a singular case: Açai berries are
fruits appear to impart a
Antioxidant Claim
Super fruits are a significant
also used as food supplements
general feeling of well-being
Reactive oxygen species
megatrend in the health and
and are finding a place in
— for example, many people
(ROS) and free radicals are
beauty industry and form part
toiletries as a result of their high
find a morning shower with
continuously formed in our
of a more general movement
levels of the powerful group of
a fruit-scented shower gel
bodies in several metabolic
towards using traditional food
antioxidants, anthocyanidins
an enjoyable, energizing
pathways, including electron
components as cosmetic
(Table I).
way to start the day, even
transport chains and active
before breakfast. Although
phagocytosis. Normally,
ingredients. They are even
It is not just their powerful
recommended as food
components that make these
pomegranate, cranberry and
the oxidative damage to
supplements and nutraceuticals;
fruits a popular ingredient in
açai may be found in numerous
macromolecules such as
cranberry, for example, is widely
cosmetic formulations; thanks
cosmetic products, there are still
DNA, proteins and lipids is
used to tackle urinary disorders
to their traditional use and
more super fruits that have yet to
prevented by a series of specially
and, owing to its antioxidant
familiarity in food supplements
be discovered.
adapted enzyme systems (for
properties, is increasingly found
and juices, consumers both
instance superoxide dismutase,
in cosmetic products. This is not
trust and enjoy them. Moreover,
glutathione peroxidase and catalase) and several waterand lipid-soluble non-protein
Product Code
Product Name
ABTS
compounds (for example
139680
Actipone A mla (Amalki) Fruit GW
++++
vitamin C, tocopherols and
399985
Actipone Aronia GW
++
381255
Actipone Black Raspberry GW
++
399977
Actipone Blackcurrent GW
++
399882
Actipone Blueberry GW
++
399976
Actipone Camu Camu GW
++++
398769
Actipone Cranburry GW
++
399979
Actipone Elderberry GW
+++
399924
Actipone Goji Berry GW
+
139785
Actipone Noni (Ashyuka) Fruit GW
++
843441
Actipone Pomegranate GW
+++
382411
Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW
++
399978
Actipone Sea Buckthorn GW
+++
glutathione). However, if this wellbalanced system is disturbed by external or internal stress, ROS formation will exceed the antioxidant capacity of the biological system and result in oxidative stress. Oxidative damage to biomolecules is known to be a major contributor to ageing and a diverse range of pathological diseases.
Table I: Antioxidant capacity of superfruits.
32
Efficient range of concentration + 1% +++ 0.1% ++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%
Measuring Antioxidant Activity In this case, antioxidant activity was measured using the ABTS assay, which is based on the reduction of the relatively stable blue/green 2,2‘-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical cation, prepared through
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Product Code
Product Name
ABTS
364577
Actipone Artichoke GW
+++
373379
Actipone Spinach GW
++
374981
Actipone Asparagus GW
++
373375
Actipone Beetroot GW
+
374982
Actipone Zucchini GW
+
373439
Actipone Broccoli GW
+
359061
Actipone Pumpkin GW
+ Efficient range of concentration + 1% +++ 0.1% ++ 0.5% ++++ 0.05%
Table II: Antioxidant capacity of vegetable extracts
AOX Capacity (%)
AOX capacity [%] 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
always been an important
the belief that it promoted long
part of mankind’s daily diet;
life led to the Emperor banning
their consumption dates from
anyone but his favourites from
the earliest known civilizations.
eating it, earning it the name of
Amaranth was a staple grain
‘forbidden rice.’ This confidence
of the Aztec population,
in its health benefits is now
whereas quinoa was of
being supported by scientific
symbolic importance to the
investigation.
Inca civilization, but the advent
These are but a few of the fruits,
of colonization in the Americas
vegetables and grains that are
and the industrial revolution
recognized for their nutritional
consigned these ingredients
value and beneficial components
All antioxidant data in this presentation are mean values of at least two
to 500 years of obscurity.
and are gaining greater
experiments. This antioxidant data is the result of an ABTS assay.
Fortunately, the rise of the health
importance in the cosmetics
and wellness trend in recent years
market. As increased consumer
has triggered the rediscovery of
awareness and demand
these nutritious grains.
encourages companies to further
0.10%
0.50%
1.00%
Antioxidant concentrations (%)
Figure 1: The antioxidant capacity of black rice. the reaction of ABTS with
should it be merely something we
potassium persulfate (K 2 O 8 S2).
need to survive on a daily basis,
quinoa, amaranth and spelt
of familiar and exotic foods, the
Antioxidants convert this into a
but a means of both mental and
are termed ‘super grains’ by
cosmetic grocery basket is only
colourless product; the degree of
physical stress relief, enjoyment
nutritionists. Not only do they
set to expand. PHM
decolourization therefore reflects
and relaxation. This is not solely
constitute our body’s best energy
the amount of ABTS radical
owing to the comforting effects
source but are renowned for their
cation that has been scavenged
of these foodstuffs; ‘super
health benefits and known for
and can be determined
vegetables’ contain the healthy
their nourishing, regenerating
spectrophotometrically.2
ingredients that are also found
and toning properties.
in super fruits. The skincare
Symbolizing health and nature
Slow Living
market is also feeling the effects
and inspiring confidence in
Our daily lives are conducted at
of this demand — cucumber,
consumers, these super grains
a faster pace than ever before
for example, has long been
are achieving growing popularity
and the ‘normal’ day-to-day
a popular food and its high
in the cosmetics industry. Oat
situation has become one of
water content makes it the
extract in particular is known for
stress. The desire of consumers to
perfect symbol for moisturizing
its skin-calming and antioxidant
slow the pace in their limited free
formulations. It is being joined
properties and the beta-glucan
time has resulted in a ‘slow living’
by ‘newer’ vegetables that are
contained within it is a potential
trend that is accompanied by
finding their way into creams,
antiageing ingredient.
a demand for healthy, delicious
lotions and shower gels and offer
food. This has in turn driven a
scientifically-proven protection
investigated the antioxidant
rediscovery of authentic, local
against free radicals (Table II).
capacity of black rice, which has
ingredients such as vegetables.
Certain of them, particularly
Recently, we at Symrize
been cultivated in China since
The slow food movement has
The Next Step
ancient times and long been
been a significant start to
Grains such as rice, oatmeal,
considered as having medicinal
reimagining food — no longer
wheat and millet have almost
properties (Figure 1). In fact,
2012 MARCH/APRIL
investigate the cosmetic potential
References
1. C . Jones, et al., “Superfruits for Healthy Skin and Hair Care — Superfruits are on the Tip of Everyone’s Tongue,” SÖFW-journal 106, 10–16 (2010). 2. R. Re, et al., “Antioxidant Activity Applying an Improved ABTS Radical Cation Decolorization Assay,” Free Radic. Biol. Med. 26, 1231–1237 (1999).
Authors
M. Axterer, J.Betke, T. Küper, N. Scholz, D. Stuhlmann, S.Taramelli
For more information
Manfred Axterer Global Product Manager, Botanicals Symrise manfred.axterer@symrise.com Tel. +49 5531 903 543 www.symrise.com
33
LAST WORD
Sense about Science A
Dr Theresa Callaghan discusses the role of marketing in cosmetic clinical trials and its impact on consumer (mis)understanding.
s the press
4 years — namely a disconnect
of their customer must realize that
encouraging this! The common
and social
between what marketing
said consumer is an individual
practice (not solely within the
media make
departments desire based on
and not just a face in the crowd.
supply base) of running cheap
evident, today’s
their understanding of consumer
consumers
‘need,’ the scientific data
at lightning speed and the
costs before passing the buck
are not easily influenced by
generated, the claims promoted
wealth of information available
means that companies will get
cosmetic product claims. And the
by raw material suppliers and
in scientific journals and press is
the same in return: cheap data
international legal requirement
R&D’s interpretation of that
outstanding. Furthermore, with
and often not so cheerful results!
that active ingredients and
data, legislation, the formulation
large multinational conferences
final formulae substantiate
chemist, the clinical testing
and events dominating the
you put in is what you get
their claims means that neither
company or department — and
field of dermatology, the raw
out. Expectations are very
R&D nor marketing can shift
knowledge.
material supplier scientist is spoilt
rarely mirrored in reality and
for choice. Failure to capture
pressure is put on clinical testing
opportunities in this way means
companies to guarantee results; a
that commercially driven
practice that is corrupt, immoral,
distributors risk their diluted version
unethical and actually illegal. If
of the facts effectively losing them
you have a high-quality raw
sales.
material with an exciting sound
Although marketing professionals acknowledge that they create consumer needs, today’s consumers are not easily influenced by promises of eternal youth and the like. this responsibility onto the other. Moreover, an inability
Their need is your need
Academia’s progress continues
and cheerful studies to avoid
As the saying goes, what
That said, it is encouraging to
and new possibilities, give it
find and be consulting with a few
the support it deserves with
unique raw material suppliers
well thought out study designs,
whose philosophy is to have
executed at high-quality in vitro
the foresight — and an almost
laboratories and human testing
personal desire — to invest in
research companies. Ensure you
understanding new research
budget for claims support as a
findings to take advantage of
forethought, not an afterthought;
them. New claims are developed
it is part of the foundation of
and justified and, in a number of
product success and, in essence, its “soul”.
to ‘translate’ new research
Without consumers and their
findings into language that
needs, raw materials would still
cases, new data has positioned
consumers understand without
be at the starting block, but
some rather ‘old’ ingredients
losing scientific integrity is
as suppliers emphasize sales
into state-of-the-art knowledge,
presenting “Sense about Science:
causing many brands to miss key
to formulators and R&D, these
supported by quality peer-
The Role of Marketing in Cosmetic
communication opportunities.
needs are often sidelined.
reviewed scientific publications
Clinical Trials and the Impact on
Although marketing professionals
and possibly patent applications
Consumer (Mis)Understanding” at
potential is often driven by
acknowledge that they create
of their own. Supported by
in-cosmetics on 17 April between
the following: cost and an
consumer needs, today’s
quality marketing, such suppliers
13.15–14.00 in the marketing
unwillingness to spend; choice
consumers are not easily
clearly enjoy a unique position in
trends theatre. PHM
of clinical studies and lack of
influenced by promises of eternal
their respective markets.
understanding; concern about
youth or the like — and even if
the return on investment and
they are not academically ‘in the
it or not, ingredients and
worries surrounding regulatory
know,’ many have generated
finished formulae require claim
and advertising standards
a knowledge, which, in recent
substantiation and neither
authorities. There has been a
years, social media has certainly
supplier nor customer can
common underlying theme
played a large role in. The
shirk the responsibility. It is
in claims and clinical projects
supplier who is convinced that
disappointing that I often hear
executed for clients in the last
the consumer is the responsibility
industry professionals actually
Failure to capture market
34
Dr Theresa Callaghan will be
Whether the industry likes
For more information
Dr Theresa M. Callaghan Callaghan Consulting tmc@ccintl.eu www.ccintl.eu
MARCH/APRIL 2012
Visit us at stand M39, in-cosmetics, Barcelona, 17 – 19 April 2012
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