PHM Spring 2010

PUREHealth

The world of personal care ingredients Magazine

SPRING EDITION 2010

in-cosmetics 2010 20 Years of Innovation

Photoprotection Sun care from the inside

Natural and Organic Ingredients from the Dark Continent

Packaging

Dispensing Inspiration

Beauty from Within

Nutrients for skin, hair and nails Rely on DSM expertise

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2

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

16 SPRING EDITION 2010

CONTENTS ..

In

. e u s s i s thi

Meet the PHM team at in-cosmetics

24 10

Antiageing

(Stand MH8) For more information about in-cosmetics and its 20 year anniversary, turn to page 10 and page 34.

32

20 Solid Science Underpins Hair and Skincare Success Sue Finderup

Photoprotection

22 Sun Protection from the Inside Dr Isabelle Frappa

Active Ingredients

From the Editor

24 Magnolia Bark Actives to Prevent Inflamm’aging of the Skin Sandra Meister

05 Green Shoots and a Fragrant Future Dr Kevin Robinson

Show Preview 10 in-cosmetics 2010:

20 Years of Innovation Richard Hesk

Natural and Organic Cosmetics 14 Out of Africa

Packaging

28 Packed with Ideas and

20

Inspiration Rabinder Aulakh

32 Practically Perfect Mark Box

Last Word

34 Fashion in Focus Dr Kevin Robinson with Jacques Sebag

Amma Akoto

Corporate Social Responsibility 16 Up Close and Green Rachel Wright

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

20 3

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FROM THE EDITOR

Green Shoots and a Fragrant Future As the global recession loosens its grip on the personal care market, consumers are starting to buy again … and investors are willing to spend.

I

t had to happen eventually

fragrances was driven, quite

consumer wants. For example, the

in North America. Many leading

and just goes to prove

simply, by a lack of US consumer

market has followed the beauty

American companies have

that no industry or sector

spending, which is in direct

industry’s lead by developing both

already been acquired, leaving

is 100% recession-proof.

contrast to the overall gains seen

ethical and organic fragrances,

relatively few suitable privately

According to a new report

in the global fragrances sector.

therefore creating scope for the

owned companies. By contrast,

from independent business

Since 2003, the market value of

industry to grow.” Datamonitor

Europe has a high concentration

analyst, Datamonitor (www.

fragrances as a percentage of

believes that given the links

of sizeable private companies.

datamonitor.com), American

the overall personal care market

between image projection and

Organic Monitor analysis reveals

consumers are spending less

has increased in developing

self esteem — as published in

that most of the recent merger

money on fragrances during the

geographies but lost ground in the

numerous psychology journals — it

and acquisition deals have been

economic downturn. The research

more developed European and

is no surprise that consumers will

done in North America where

reveals that consumers in North

North American markets. Any loss

make sacrifices when the going

companies — such as Bare

American and, in particular,

of market share, said Datamonitor,

gets tough to buy themselves a

Escentuals and Burt’s Bees — have

the US, are willing to sacrifice

can be attributed to the high

perfume to make them feel good

been purchased at more than

fragrances before other aspects

performances in other categories,

about themselves.

3–5 times their sales revenues.

of their personal care regime. In

such as make-up.

a nutshell: Americans don’t seem

The overall view, however, is

More good news came

High prices are being paid by

recently from Organic Monitor

investors looking to emulate Estée

to care as much about smelling

that the fragrance market will

(www.organicmonitor.com),

Lauder’s success with Aveda.

good as they do about looking

continue to grow, despite regional

who suggested that a sharp rise

Since its purchase in 1997, Aveda

good. When asked in a survey

declines. Datamonitor believes

in investment activity involving

has grown significantly to become

how important smelling good

that the fragrance market will

natural personal care companies

a global brand of natural personal

was, 56% of the Americas said it

continue to grow during the next

is expected in 2010. What

care products.

was important or very important,

decade despite declining US

they described as “improving

whereas 70% stated that looking

sales. Strengths in the fragrances

economic conditions” and the

Gillian Morris, Director, Kline

their best was important or very

market exist in countries such as

easing of capital restrictions “are

Management Consulting,

important. The study reports that

Spain, in particular, which has

making investors target this high-

stated: “With the global personal

although the overall personal

begun to challenge France as

growth sector once again.” The

care industry projected to

care market experienced

the traditional home of European

natural personal care industry

grow at 3.5% per year to reach

growth in North America, the

fragrances. Mark Whalley, the

was the darling of the investment

manufacturers’ sales of $233

fragrances sector actually

author of the report, commented:

community until the financial

billion by 2013, acquisitions

declined between 2003 and 2008.

“One of the reasons why the

crisis started in 2008. After a

will indeed serve a key role in

The North American decline in

fragrance market stood firm

lull period of 18 months, major

helping brand owners realize

during the global recession is

deals have finally restarted. Bare

continued profitable growth.” In

its ability to deliver what the

Escentuals has been acquired by

her view, the top three drivers for

In a recent editorial,

Shiseido in a $1.7 billion

future industry acquisitions are

deal, whereas the

geographic expansion, focusing

cosmetics company,

on high growth and emerging

Clarins, has recently

markets; channel development,

completed its purchase

to reach new consumers and

of Kibio. Looking ahead,

new industry segments; and cost

more such deals are on

savings/synergies, driven more

the horizon as investors once

by the need to remain solvent

again start pursuing natural

as opposed to opportunities for

personal care companies.

Not surprisingly, investors are

profitable growth. Europe, watch this space! PHM

attracted by high market growth rates and profitable product categories; as such, European companies are expected to be involved in major deals in 2010 because of the lack of ‘investable’ companies

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

For more information

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com.

5

THIS JUST IN

NEWS AND PRODUCTS A Touch of Luxury

Formulators are always looking for new ways to give products a unique look and feel. The latest functional filler from Merck KGaA promises to do just that — by adding a Touch of Luxury that ticks all the boxes for consumers and manufacturers alike. Merck’s RonaFlair White Sapphire brings an elegant soft focus effect to a wide range of cosmetic formulations, including foundations, blushes, eye shadows and lipsticks. Early adopters are certainly enthusiastic about this “targeted light diffusion,” which aims to visibly reduce fine lines and support a natural complexion. Equally importantly, this recent addition to the RonaFlair range strikes the all-important balance between coverage and transparency. The patented production technology ensures outstanding skin feel and slip properties, while the superior adhesion is designed for long-lasting effects. This functional filler enhances the texture of cosmetics by imparting softness and richness.

The pure white functional filler contains just one ingredient: powdered aluminum oxide with a particle size of <16 µm. For formulators, one big advantage — thanks to the uniform morphology of the aluminum oxide flakes — is that the functional filler can be listed as “Synthetic Sapphire” rather than “Alumina.” With its positive associations of luxury and elegance, this is clearly more inviting. RonaFlair White Sapphire is internationally approved for all cosmetic purposes and complies with REACH. It also meets all NaTrue criteria. Visitors to in-cosmetics 2010 in Paris can check out this and other RonaFlair innovations for themselves on Stand D14 (www.merck.de).

Tomato Lycopene Study Supports Nutricosmetics Trend

LycoRed (www.lycored.com) is celebrating the results of a recent study on lycopene conducted by the Department of Dermatology at the CharitéUniversity of Medicine in Berlin, Germany. The trial, which focused on lycopene concentration in the furrowed and wrinkled foreheads of 20 subjects between 40 and 50 years old, demonstrated that high levels of antioxidants in the skin might correlate with lower levels of skin roughness. As the body is unable to produce its own lycopene, a lycopene-rich diet helps to promote high concentrations in the skin. Lycopene, a powerful antioxidant, is found in great quantities in the tomato. Although health experts endorse the tomato-rich Mediterranean diet, supplementation with a lycopene-rich tomato extract is a convenient and effective way of consuming sufficient quantities of tomato lycopene for healthy, beautiful skin. “The researchers stated that ‘lycopene can be assumed to represent an efficient protection system against the negative action of free radicals in the skin,’ and this is highly encouraging because it provides additional support for Lyc-O-Mato tomato lycopene as a skin protecting and beautifying ingredient for the fast-growing nutricosmetics market,” explains Zohar Nir, VP of New Product Development and Scientific Affairs, for LycoRed, Ltd, manufacturers of Lyc-O-Mato. “Skin smoothness is highly valued from an aesthetic perspective,” Nir continues, “but it is also an indicator of healthy skin. Increasing dietary levels of lycopene through daily supplementation with tomato lycopene is an easy way to ensure the continued presence of high skin levels of these protective antioxidants and to help protect the skin from photodamage and environmental pollutants, and to preserve the skin’s smoothness.”

New Active for Brighter Skin

At in-cosmetics 2010, RAHN will present ILLUMISCIN, an innovative active ingredient that eliminates age spots and rejuvenates the skin. A balanced composition of oleuropein, vitamin C and zinc-PCA effectively fights against the pigments that are responsible for the appearance of age spots — melanin and lipofuscin. The active ingredient uniquely prevents the formation of age spots. In vitro and in vivo studies have shown that ILLUMISCIN successfully reduces lipofuscin formation, reduces the size of age spots and diminishes their contours. The application and efficacy of ILLUMISCIN is patent pending (www.rahn-group.com).

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SPRING 2010 ISSUE

New Opportunities for Extended Soft Skin Feel

New additions to Clariant’s Aristoflex product range will help cosmetics formulators to bring outstanding soft skin feel to thin lotions and high pH-value lotions, creams and gel applications. Aristoflex BLV and Aristoflex AVS give formulators more product development control, making velvet or silky skin touch available where it was not previously possible.

Examples include antibacterial hand gels, silicone-free under-eye gels, spray lotions, day creams, decorative eye cosmetics and make-up foundations. Innovative Aristoflex AVS is a rheology modifier specifically developed to bring the fresh, silky-touch melting sensation of Aristoflex AVC to formulations with a pH of 7.5 and above. New AVS uses sodium (Na+) instead of ammonium (NH4+) to address AVC’s stability shortfall at high pH levels. Aristoflex AVS is therefore an excellent choice for depilatory creams or cuticle remover formulations.

Aristoflex AVS is suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions and emulsifier-free formulations. The fresh skin feel and quick absorption of formulations with Aristoflex AVS make this polymer especially suitable for self-tanning, antiageing and whitening cosmetics. Building on the sensory benefits of Clariant’s Aristoflex HMB, Aristoflex BLV offers more flexible cross-linking performance. This distinct advantage allows formulators to achieve a major jump in thickening performance at low viscosities. In combination with Aristoflex AVC, for example, it creates good non-drip flow behaviour for thin, sprayable skin milks. Dr Ralf Zerrer, Clariant’s head of Global Marketing, Industrial and Consumer Specialties, commented: ”Our new Aristoflex grades address the current performance gap in skin feel enhancement, making it possible for formulators to meet the industry’s trend for improved skin feel in more applications than ever before while also achieving more cost-effective, environmentally friendly processing. This level of performance and processing control opens up exciting new possibilities for the personal care industry to improve its production efficiency and product offerings.” Visit www.clariant.com for more information.

DSM Steps Up to Personal Care

At in-cosmetics this year, DSM Nutritional Products will showcase its personal care offering, following the creation of a new business unit. The division represents DSM’s ongoing commitment to the personal care industry and its objective to grow in this area, with a strong focus on solutions for hair, skin and sun care. A significant addition to this division comes with the appointment of Ilona Haaijer, who recently joined to lead the Personal Care business unit and act on the strategic board of DSM Nutritional Products. Ilona commented: “I am delighted to be on board with DSM’s Personal Care business unit and am looking forward to the challenge of leading our business towards continued growth. With a team of experienced industry experts, I am confident that we will continue to develop innovative solutions and maintain DSM’s position as a key player in the global personal care industry.”

Visitors to the DSM stand will be able to view the latest addition to DSM’s sunscreen portfolio, PARSOL TX 50 AB, a dispersion of DSM’s ultra-fine Titanium Dioxide PARSOL TX that guarantees easier, safer and more cost-efficient processing. Another highlight will be DSM’s skincare peptide, SYN-HYCAN. Clinically proven, this powerful peptide offers needle-free hyaluronan-based contour remodelling — firming skin while visibly reducing the main signs of skin ageing such as sagging and wrinkle formation. By boosting hyaluronan content, which is depleted by the ageing process, SYN-HYCAN works to protect and structure the skin’s collagen and dermis cells and firm skin from the inside.

Representatives from DSM Nutritional Products will be available on Stand F16 to offer advice and discuss DSM’s comprehensive portfolio of beauty ingredient solutions (www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com).

Frutarom loves Beauty and helps nourish your skin from the inside A marker of youth and health, the skin needs daily nourishment and protection to remain clear and smooth. Frutarom presents a scientifically-backed selection of safe and natural dietary ingredients for beauty formulations. For more information on our Beauty campaign, please contact Frutarom.

GreenTea 942

and ingredients from

info@frutaromhealth.com | www.frutarom.com

THIS JUST IN

in-cosmetics 2010 Lifetime Achievement Award: Shortlist Announced!

The wait is over, the nominations have been counted and the shortlist for the in-cosmetics 2010 Lifetime Achievement Award can finally be announced! Dr Alain Khaiat, Dr Karl Lintner, Dr Daniel Maes and Dr Johann Wiechers have all been selected as finalists and will now battle it out in a public vote. Nominations came in from all corners of the globe, but it was these four individuals who stood out and have been chosen for their outstanding professional accomplishments and dedication to the field of cosmetic science. Dr Alain Khaiat has been involved in the field of science for more than 40 years and, even postretirement, he continues to contribute significantly to the cosmetic industry. Dr Khaiat has worked for several key companies throughout his career, including Revlon, where he co-ordinated all technical activities outside of the USA, Yves Rocher Cosmetics, where he was responsible for a range of key product developments and Johnson & Johnson, where he headed up more than 350 staff worldwide.

Dr Karl Lintner has more than 25 years of experience and has gained admiration from his colleagues and peers for his work within the skin biochemistry field. Dr Lintner studied for a PhD in biochemistry at Vienna University before spending 10 years researching biological peptides at the Nuclear Research Centre in Saclay, France. During this time, he published more than 30 papers on biochemistry and biophysics before going on to work at leading companies such as Henkel and Sederma.

Dr Daniel Maes has dedicated more than 30 years of his career to the cosmetics industry and has played an integral part in the research and development of several key cosmetic innovations.

Dr Maes, who has a PhD in nuclear chemistry, started his career as a radiochemistry scientist, where he spent his time researching the penetration of chemicals into the skin. He then moved to RichardsonVicks before taking a role as Senior Vice President of Global Research and Development at Estée Lauder, where he stayed for over 20 years before setting up his own consulting company. Dr Johann Wiechers has more than 20 years of experience in the cosmetics industry and has long been an excellent educator and spokesperson within the field. After gaining a PhD in transdermal drug delivery, Dr Wiechers worked for Unilever Research as a Dermal Delivery Team Leader and at Uniqema as the company’s Skin R&D Director. In 2007 he made the move to set up his own company, JW Solutions, where he continues to work as an independent consultant to companies in the cosmetic science industry. In the same year, he was also appointed as a Visiting Professor at the School of Pharmacy at the University of London where he continues to teach today. The online public vote is now open until 31 March 2010 (www.in-cosmetics.com/award).

ECOCERT-Approved Polyglycerol Esters

Thanks to their marked substantivity, Hydrior’s polyglycerol esters make your skin feel fantastic. Depending on the specific product, they have a non-roughening or smoothing effect on the skin and regulate humidity.

Because they don’t denature the skin’s proteins, there’s no irritation. And, in natural cosmetics, they are ideal for use as liquid and PEG-free emulsifiers, solubilizers or thickeners (www.hydrior.ch).

Reusable Revolution for Fabric Conditioner

A new trial will see fabric conditioner being sold in reusable pouches from vending machines, introducing a new concept in shopping and reducing packaging waste. The trial, which has been funded by WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme), and partners ASDA, eziserv, McBrides and Unilever, begins in ASDA’s Barnsley store and will be rolled out across four other ASDA stores. The self-dispensing technology has been developed by eziserv with support from project partners McBrides, Oakdene Hollins and Unilever. The fabric conditioner will be piped from 1000 L, reusable containers from the back-of-store via overhead pipes to a dispensing point in the retail aisle. It allows customers to purchase concentrated fabric conditioner in reusable pouches that can be refilled up to 10 times, saving 40 pence each time compared with the same volume of product in traditional plastic bottles. As well as offering consumer savings, the new technology offers retailers significant business benefits, including carbon impact reduction across the entire supply chain. It also has the potential to free up in-store sales space and offer transportation and storage cost savings.

Dr Richard Swannell, Director of Retail at WRAP (www.wrap.org.uk), said the trial could signal a radical change in the retail environment: “Reusable packaging offers us an opportunity to fundamentally rethink the retail experience. We have already seen positive responses from consumers in relation to carrier bag reuse and if this trial enjoys similar success, it could mark the start of a reusable revolution. The retail industry is watching this trial with a great deal of interest because there are clear opportunities for reusable packaging in relation to all manner of products, ranging from laundry products to paint.” Julian Walker-Palin, ASDA’s head of corporate policy for sustainability and ethics, said: “ASDA already leads the retail sector in packaging reduction and has reduced packaging on ASDA products by 28% since 2007. Our mantra at ASDA is ‘To Make Sustainability Affordable for All’ and this project directly engages our customers by offering them a great product that not only has a lower packaging footprint but also has a lower price tag owing to its reduced environmental footprint.”

Richard Garnett from eziserv said: “This launch is a significant step that enables customers to radically reduce packaging waste while making great savings on the new products they would normally buy in traditional bottles. The dispense point and innovative new pack are simple, fun and easy to use. If this trial is successful, the concept can be applied to a range of products.”

LFH Refreshes Packaging for Arwa Water

Arwa, the bottled water brand owned by The Coca-Cola Company, is being relaunched with new packaging designed by brand design consultancy, LFH (www.lfh.co.uk). Arwa, available across the Middle East, was originally launched in 2002 and LFH was asked by The Coca-Cola Company to create a more contemporary design that communicates Arwa’s positioning as “Vitality for Life.”

Steve Irvine, LFH’s Creative Director, says: “In a very cluttered and fiercely competitive market, there was a need to upgrade the design and provide a much more contemporary flavour to help Arwa gain leadership in the water category. So, we have integrated the logotype with the flow of water that runs across the pack. The water and the droplet communicate refreshment and vitality in a contemporary way. A simple, less cluttered design has brought it bang up to date to appeal to a younger, more active consumer.” Stuart King, Graphics Services Manager, Middle East and Central Asia, says: “We have worked with LFH to create an updated version of the existing design to better communicate the brand values and the “Vitality for Life” positioning to our existing and targeted consumers. We are happy to see that the new design enjoys an improved shelf stand-out whilst still retaining a strong family feel.”

8

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

SHOW PREVIEW

Paris, 13-15 April 2010 in-cosmetics has come a long way since it first opened its doors in 1990 in Birmingham, with 900 visitors and 60 exhibitors. Now, two decades later, it is recognized as the

leading

global

business

platform

for the personal care industry and is celebrating

B

its

twentieth

anniversary

in Paris this April with the best show yet. ringing together

doors during the 2009 event,

and visitors than in 2009, along

the world’s

which, given that the recession

with a host of new products

leading cosmetics

was then at its peak, is a

to be unveiled by the world’s

suppliers, R&D,

reflection of just how much the

biggest players and niche

production

show has truly established itself

companies alike. Europe is

and marketing specialists,

at the forefront of innovation

one of the largest markets

in-cosmetics showcases a

and as the must-attend event

for the cosmetics industry

spectacular range of new and

for the industry. Through

and is growing year-on-year.

innovative cosmetic ingredients

the years, in-cosmetics has

Within this, France has the

and services, and offers a

served as the launch platform

largest number of product

crucial insight into future

for major new product and

manufacturers specializing in

scientific advances, emerging

technology innovations, and

everything from natural and

trends and regulations. Five

the forthcoming event in Paris

organic to high performance

hundred and twenty five

is sure to be no exception.

cosmetics, which makes Paris

exhibitors and more than 4500

This year’s show is expected

perfectly placed to host this

visitors passed through the

to welcome more exhibitors

very special edition of the show. Some of the most wellknown companies are, after all, French, including L’Oréal, LVMH, Chanel, Yves Rocher, Clarins and Pierre Fabre, whilst international companies such as Unilever, Shiseido, Beiersdorf, Henkel and Natura all have a strong presence in France.

International Exhibitor Line Up All of the big names have already confirmed their spots at the show. Highlighting the business benefits of exhibiting, many companies, big or small, have had a presence at the event every year for more than 10 years — Croda, Gattefossé, Mibelle, Lubrizol, Provital and Zschimmer & Schwarz to name just a few. In addition, the

10

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

More Than Just an exhibition

quasidrug or functional

several first time exhibitors from across the globe, giving

Not only is in-cosmetics the

country and the claims made.

visitors the opportunity to

place to source new ingredients

meet many new suppliers.

and be inspired by product

that examines future trends

Swedish company Actom,

launches, the unrivalled

for the global beauty industry,

BioEpiderm from Germany,

educational programme

is the central feature at

Fuji Sangyo from Japan and

also provides an unmissable

in-cosmetics. It is the forum

Portuguese manufacturer

opportunity to brush up on the

wherein ideas are exchanged,

Inovapotek are just a selection

latest scientific and marketing

current perceptions are

of companies poised to

knowledge. And for the

challenged and product

showcase their products to

20th anniversary show, the

prototypes are discussed to

an international audience.

organizers may well have put

stimulate product development.

Although there are a whole

together the best programme

This April in Paris, the fashion

host of international exhibitors

yet — featuring two Regulatory

capital of the world, in-focus will

from more than 35 countries,

Seminars, an Innovation Zone,

look at the science of beauty

there will also be a strong

in-focus, Innovation Seminars,

through the prism of fashion.

local presence, including two

Marketing Trends Presentations

Some of the best beauty

pavilions celebrating the very

and three Scientific Workshops.

products have such a dramatic

best in French technology and

Premiering at in-cosmetics

sensorial effect on the skin that

development. The Cosmetic

are two Regulatory Seminars

they make the wearer look and

Valley pavilion will feature

that are designed for visitors

feel as good as when wearing

more than 30 companies,

with technical knowledge

a high fashion item. Conversely,

including Naturakem and

who are involved in R&D and

some high fashion items and

Laboratoire Monique Remy,

regulations. The first seminar is

particular fabrics have been

whereas Bretagne International

essential for those wanting to

likened to a second skin. This

will place ten companies

update their knowledge on the

parallel lays bare the structural

centre stage in their pavilion

new European Regulation on

and functional relationship

to showcase their latest

Cosmetic Products. A panel of

between textiles and cosmetics,

ingredients and services. One

experts, including Dr Annelie

fashion and beauty.

of these is first time exhibitor

Struessman, technical director

Visitors will embark on an

Diana Naturals, who will be

at CONUSBAT, Dr Werner Schuh

inspirational journey through

on hand at the pavilion to

(WS), Director of Product Safety

swathes of ultra-sensorial

discuss the benefits of its active

and Sustainability, Cosmetics

textures that have been

Phytonutriance range.

and Toiletries R&D at HENKEL

designed as creative new

AG & Co. KGa and Dr Chris

fabrics, and colours that

an unrivalled opportunity to

Newsome, representing the

have been directly inspired

capitalize on the expertise of

EFfCI (European Federation

by fashion and fragrance

these international and local

for Cosmetic Ingredients), will

trends — a genuine global

companies and will find a wide

provide an overview of the

“trend book” made of creams,

variety of exciting products

key changes as a result of

gels, elixirs and powders.

and solutions under one roof.

the regulation, the key issues

Breakthrough technologies,

Whether they are looking for

and impacts as well as offer

novel formulations and

a new ingredient, ways to

concrete advice on how to

creative ideas will be

improve their formulations or

be compliant and ready for

displayed in dedicated

seeking new business contacts,

the changes. Dr Alain Khaiat,

areas, whereas samples of

in-cosmetics allows them to

President of Seers Consulting

new colours, hairstyles and

speak directly to suppliers

and Vice-President of the ASEAN

textiles will also be available.

who can help. Feedback from

Cosmetic Association, and

Companies signed up to date

visitors confirms in-cosmetics’

Roger Montigny, Asia Zone Co-

include Arch Personal Care

well-deserved reputation

ordinator, International Scientific

Products, BASF, Créations

for product innovation.

and Technico-Regulatory Affairs

Couleurs, Croda Group,

Lynn Münchow, product

at L’Oréal SA will present the

Dow Corning, Gattefossé,

development at Beiersdorf

second Regulatory seminar. It

Merck, SACI-CFPA, Sinerga,

commented: “in-cosmetics

will provide participants with

Stéarinerie Dubois and Symrise.

is the one show for cosmetic

a comprehensive overview of

Formulating laboratories Affix,

raw materials,” whereas Linda

the cosmetic regulations in Asia

Laboratoire BF, Labosphère

Dewachtere, senior category

and will cover all major Asian

and Strand Cosmetics will also

manager at McBride agreed,

countries, examining how a

be involved, working with the

believing the exhibition to be

product could be positioned as

participants to create prototype

“the place to see what’s new.”

a cosmetic, active cosmetic,

products for visitors to sample.

2010 event is also attracting

in-cosmetics gives visitors

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

cosmetic depending on the in-focus, a visionary feature

11

SHOW PREVIEW

The free-to-visit Innovation

Beerling from Organic Monitor

L’Oréal and Shiseido. Fair trade

Zone is one of the show’s key

will provide an in-depth look

and sustainability will feature

features and has proven to be

at Preservatives in Cosmetics:

highly with presentations from

extremely popular in previous

The Alternatives to Parabens,

Organic Monitor on Corporate

years. Showcasing the very

covering the controversy

Social Responsibility and

latest ingredients by exhibitors

surrounding parabens, their

Sustainability Initiatives, Max

and beauty products as

effectiveness and the rise in

Havelaar on Fair trade and Lush

selected by Mintel, it provides

natural alternatives. Professor

on Cosmetics, Ingredients and

visitors with a ‘one-stop-shop’

Dr Gerd Kutz will then be giving

Ethics. Innovation and global

to quickly identify the major

his thoughts on Formulating

trends will also be discussed,

industry launches and examine

for Efficacy, detailing how to

along with the impact of the

how beauty innovation has

formulate optimal delivery

recession, social media and

evolved since the 1970s. The

systems and microemulsions,

a talk from Google on How to

finished product section of the

how to choose the best

Use the Internet as a Marketing

Innovation Zone is divided into

emulsifiers and how to substitute

Tool to Better Understand the

three themes:

silicones and preservatives with

Behaviour of Consumers.

• F ountain of Youth: a look at

naturally derived raw materials.

Commenting on the

next-generation antiageing

Judi Beerling will conclude the

forthcoming show in Paris,

technology with an emphasis

programme with a workshop on

Group Exhibition Manager,

on products targeted at

Formulating Ethical Cosmetics.

Richard Hesk, said: “Reaching

Digital Natives, men and more

Consumer demand for fair

our 20th anniversary is a

mature women.

trade products continues to

fantastic milestone and I’m

grow at a frantic pace and

very excited about the 2010

harvest of beauty products

the workshop will look at the

show. During the years, visitors

with actives derived from

potential of the fair trade

and delegates have come to

herbs, fruits and vegetables.

cosmetics market, investigating

expect the very best from the

what makes a product fair

educational element of the

new launches that highlight

trade, the major formulation

show and, in particular, I’m

convenience and speed for

and technical issues when using

looking forward to in-focus

the Modern Urban Nomad.

fair trade ingredients and how

as fashion is a theme close

these can be overcome.

to my heart! It aims at fusing

• B eauty Garden: a fresh

• Instant Beauty: a selection of

Back by popular demand,

The highly popular

visitors will be able to take

the world of fashion and

part in two interactive

Innovation Seminar sessions,

the world of beauty so that

demonstrations. Twice daily,

all 44 of them, are already

visitors can imagine personal

there will be Beauty Food

fully booked by exhibitors.

care beyond the white/clear

Tasting sessions serving up

They provide a chance to hear

alternatives; cosmetics are not

in-cosmetics

about the latest ingredients and

pharmaceuticals, the way they

gives visitors

formulation techniques through

look and feel count as much

presentations by the suppliers

as their functional benefits.”

themselves. Visitors can choose

Richard continued: “We are

from a wide variety of topics,

constantly striving to improve

including the Revival of W/0

in-cosmetics so that visitors and

Emulsions, Navigating the

exhibitors get real value out

to capitalize

Complexities of Emulsification

of the show with inspiration,

Selection, Reliability of Supply

knowledge and contacts to

on the

of Organic Ingredients and

spur new product development.

Preservative Solutions for the

I believe in-cosmetics really is

expertise of

EU Cosmetic Ecolabel. Last but

the best forum for developing

not least, the free-to-attend

new business partnerships and

international

Marketing Trends Presentations

keeping ahead of the latest

and local

will offer visitors the chance to

trends and innovations with

hear about an array of exciting

everything under one roof for

and key industry topics. One of

just 3 days. It’s an opportunity

the highlights will be a panel

not to be missed!” PHM

the newest nutricosmetics, beauty foods and beverages handpicked from around the world by the Mintel Beauty Innovation team. Plus, an interactive touch and play display, Cosmetic Sparks will spotlight some of the hottest launches and new niche trends and concepts in Japan, China, the US and Europe. Exhibitors too will be demonstrating their ingredients and products on the Innovation Zone. Air Products, Clariant, Jan Dekker International and Rhodia are already lined up to show visitors their new developments and allow them to sample and try them.

Scientific Workshops will run throughout the show and give attendees a detailed look at some of the current issues influencing the industry. Judi

12

an unrivalled opportunity

companies and a wide variety

discussion on How Biodiversity

is Transforming the Cosmetic

of exciting

Industry with experts from the

products and

Trade and Development with

solutions.

for Ethical BioTrade, Natura,

United Nations Conference on representatives from the Union

For more information

in-cosmetics (www.in-cosmetics.com) 13–15 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France.

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

Close and Green

Make informed decisions, make the right choice with Croda.

Request your Green Guide and Formulary brochures today.

Green ke Ma

Take a look â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;up closeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at the green credentials of our personal care range.

Guide

th eR

ight C ice wit ho

h

Use our Green Guide to select from a wide variety of products, based on the green criteria that you value most.

Green ke Ma

Use our Green Formulary for inspiration when formulating across the spectrum of greenness that exists within the personal care industry.

Formulary

th eR

Cr od a

with Croda

Cr od a

up

Visit us at in-cosmetics 2010, Paris Stand No. L60

ight C ice wit ho

h

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.crodausa.com Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.croda.com.br Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build on

TM

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

13

Natural and Organic Cosmetics

nt Dark Contine the m o fr ts ien Natural ingred y an d ma ssa ge the rap extremely useful is se rea ent sta bil ity. inc sc pe rfu me ry for st Africa, with indigenous to We tions such as osi s, mp co ion rat for ne or ge ir traditional tends their an overview of the emollients as it ex many people entific ve Shea Butter recently pro n sci s, y beyond ntl use shelf-life significa in West Africa for fits ne be and Olein natural, or applications and rki i is that of any other have been using g.

Butyrospe rmum pa ein ll-b skincare and we rived, emollient ies de y ed all ah belt of rem tur nn al na va ion sa tradit native to the The tocopherols n. tio osi ht on to ge ug mp ca co led s ow Af rica. Af rican and ancestral kn a ng ri o in amounts of M d s use shea rtie be pe the y of pro ma ial fits the vast bene grows in about the benefic The moringa tree ly 0.02% to 5% by ate have xim d an pro the o ap for ag s tree centu rie Local folklore of plants and herbs Africa and India. composition, the . for of nts t ce me igh sin ail we er us ev been usi ng it ringa oleifera treatment of vario r claims that the Mo upon the particula ing etic nd sm nts pe co pla d de of an both cu linar y cosmetic The traditional use has been used in d other additives (an ions, ion l rat lat ne ina mu ge dic r for Fo me applications. back as for cosmetic and , preparations as far ed lation). In general nd mu in me for ep om the de in rec ted en shea has be tracts from the applications is roo 14 00 BC, using ex amounts of low std, ly po an ve at re; ati tre rel klo to fol to new mums to the oil from local histor y and highly effective. leaves themselves tocopherols are se practices c, pti tise an in some cases, tho its the seeds. With en shown y, scenthave recently be anti-inflammator y proven r-producing to have a clinicall he masking and lat is article is a true all ga scientific basis. Th rin properties, mo a handful extracts of c aims to highlight tei rounder. The pro ients from beneficial ve of natural ing red ha moringa seeds nent and, in ils and na n, the African conti ski effects on the cosmetics le ab en doing so, implore hair, and are am consider y, log manufacturers to eto to use in cosm sourcing d, in diversifying their pharmacology an of their logical strategies as part ato particular, derm ies. This call ollient, em ir sustainability polic applications. The an initiative ting dra hy to action is part of d conditioning an ck in trade in the ted no to put the “fair” ba en effects have be difference rn de mo In . and make a real ure scientific literat includ ing igenous oil ga rin mo , pa rtum ski n issues, to the lives of ind cts cosmetic produ co sm eti c be nefits ’s ing ga cked ain rin int cra Mo d ma an ile tively in skin stretch ma rks producers, wh can be used effec prese nce of ty the d butte r e ali an qu lud d in inc an ole y a nip ples. Sh ea the consistenc C care products as d ir an ha A d an ins am ernational the tre at me nt fat ty acids, vit are effective for required for the int with a pleasant stable emollient ants, an d hig h ard xid nd tio sta an d ion s, dr y the an g tat irri vin ial fragranceof mi no r ski n market. Impro skin feel and spec bil ity, antise pti c sta l e tiv ica ca re, ida eth d ox sun , an l ha ir an d scalp of operationa fixing properties. am mator y nfl ti-i of d dr y ski n an ds d an en y an th rap of a ma ssa ge the standards at bo d Tip! The addition use Top be n as ecze ma. It spectrum pro pe rties. It ca co nd itio ns such the supply chain tocopherols to small amount of tia ge ing, bo dy an , m ial fro ts fac … tough ski n, in ien on red en proven is also tough of natural ing moringa oil has be re ap pli catio ns. ca ir art ha he d feet an d the an as at h s on are as suc tive stability the region lie to increase oxida also used as a is ing ga low rin pro pe rties fol c Mo eti The urs — an elb ow s! Co sm of this article. from 29 to 13 3.3 ho in aro mathe rapy, r the rize of e istu mo som of s are example . This dramatic increase of 45 0% ts that are natural ing redien

F

roup A Plus and its g ing to k o o l e r a s r e n part rporate encourage co rs decision make eir to diversify th egies. sourcing strat

14

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

Working ng yi if ty rs fat with small Dive ab le inc lud e un sa po nifi e bl na ity ai stic st independents Su ski n ela acids, ke rat in for ies g te liver ra St ng ci ur such as A Plus to de So ich is ding an d all antoi n, wh ts jec associated with ad Pro s Plu A yment to Amma Akoto of sustainable emplo ali ng an d he its to for lue ed va niz s recog tremendou that sources, of the most UK, part of a group real people is one ts. ustry, has dis infectin g effec ,” s ing the cosmetic ind ute ad “tr trib s to produces and dis “fair” approache in provides ole abling the ea en Sh ! in Tip er Top much to off n products ” a real sense of natural West Africa giving “fair trade sation sen n diversified ski of ul n erf tio nd a wo implementa ling cosmetic — including ts ab en ien d red an ed ing iat ing d an soc an me ms as ts sourcing without the proble natural ing redien African liver benefits to indigenous West companies to de h as suc r, r cosmetic tte ge bu a lar she by with strategies ps, botanics, s and to their rce soa sou de ma ply n nd sup ca ir ha in the ea ole crystallization. Sh companies. PHM recently market. “It is seeds and oils — lms and ethically minded ba s, ion lot in d be use tural Beauty for the large attended the Na a call to action — trations creams at concen on g tin en mm ies to source Bibliography Summit 20 09. Co cosmetics compan high in she up to 30 %. Being , ics cts 1. P. Gilles, “Use of top du d an pro s ir the presentation a proportion of the acids, ty fat le ab nifi po at Least an Irvingia unsa sustainability ducing said: “The trend for se from real locally pro en int to le ab gabonensis Extract en it is am is en vogue at reality is that de The tra s. r ion fai d lat an lar pu llu po d ce in a Cosmetic and/or moisturization an n people live t,” At A Plus, we and lio nt. bil 3 me n. n ski mo tha d re the ge mo Pharmaceutical Produc dama growth to restore to make a r day. Large our partners strive United States Patent on less than $2 pe s ce to the lives ions still have 6216707 (Laboratoire tangible differen cosmetic corporat te .” cie rds Wild Mango Treeknown of community co-operatives in So wo ues nd giq yo iolo Serob the scope to go be s (al so s Irving ia gabonensi ).

Plu 01 ers A 20 .” , rtn me pa erm ony g-t up An Africa for the lon A Plus and its gro o tree) is a iman, g as the wi ld mang ge 2. J.H. Brown and R. Kle rrently encouragin cu is ts st jec We looking to encoura d Pro an are al ntr ition Ce in pos nd Com e fou abl tree “Ultra-St ts buyers and makers cosmetic ingredien co rpo rate decision of Irving ia Oil a cts tra ring ex Mo e ing Th pris a.

Com Af ric take part in urcing decision makers to to diversify their so ula rly its and its Derivatives and gabonensi s, pa rtic a s lie sor on gth “Sp en str as s’ h Plu suc s A s. ive iat gie s, init ate on str fracti Uses Thereof,” United polysaccharide programme. “Part positioning e” n lag ea Vil rop ea Eu Sh its in in tly States Patent 6528075 can be used direc or p’s role is to monit know ledge, ou al Gr al ion r tic ou reg eu of d (International Flora ac an arm cosmetic and ph ize production sence and ard pre , nd hip sta Technologies Ltd, 2003). d ers en an rtn be pa have es, products. These s tiv era a.

-op ric co Af se st . Murad, “Composition 3. H processes in the awareness of We istu rizi ng, ating rs proven to have mo Tre ye for bu th ds e wi tho rat s Me ng rpo eti and co as well as find By facilitating me tructu ring sof ten ing and res ngs, Acne,” United States ies and amongst other thi er, off t tha re cosmetic compan mo are ce t tha s rtie pe pro Patent 5962517 (Revan g and input.” onships with competitive pricin optimizing its relati 9). titatively 199 ., an Inc , qu d ics an eut d rap rie The va encourage d potential The purpose is to co -operatives an er so urces gre ate r tha n oth t ts ge ien to red ies an ing al cosmetic comp sources of natur s used in of po lysacch ar ide el Akoto hopes affiliated at a lev or l ed ca olv uti inv ce from the region, ma For more co sm eti c or ph ar d an ty ali qu d its pa rtners the s that maintain A Plus Projects an idi c fra cti on s lip e Th . information cts du pro accessibility of required for the y the nc ve ste ity pro nsi bil im co n sta l ca ica Amma Akoto ha ve go od ch em es al market, while rican co -operativ on Af l st ati rne We ern ke al int A Operations Director loc g. rin an d we ak co lou E candidates of l strides towards SM rea g g o on kin A Plus Projects, UK. als str ma n d ca an nt ex tra ct of the pla s.co.uk — ck ns bla pla as ng h rci suc ammaa@aplusproject sustainable sou niche products alg es ic an an as d .uk use .co be ple gestures www.aplusprojects onal ma rkets. going beyond sim soap to internati at me nts, to tre ne ac in t en ag societal ditionally towards tangible The SME sector, tra in as so ciated nt.” all ev iate the pa me ge ga en d an collaboration s. with acne les ion

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

15

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

Up lose and reen The Interpretation of Green

produced, fair trade, not tested

ingredients (contains 100%

on animals, biodegradable

natural moisturizers, for

used in the food industry, which

With increased media activity

formula, sustainably sourced

example) or for the entire

is also increasingly being used

and consumer awareness, the

ingredients, recycled

formulation, especially when

in the personal care industry.

term ‘green’ is being used in

packaging and carbon neutral,

formulations contain 90–100%

Cosmetic free from claims have

so many scenarios and, as a

to name a few.

natural ingredients. Although

sometimes been criticized as

natural claims are unregulated,

being misleading. This is because

result, there are many different

In Asia Pacific, the green market

Free from is a claim commonly

definitions of green. With no

is quite diversified; Australia and

formulations can also be

the claims can imply that the ‘free

official definition, translation or

New Zealand appear to have the

certified as “natural” by a

from’ ingredient in the formulation

interpretation, the meaning of

majority share with home-grown

number of non-government

is in some way undesirable, but

green can depend on many

brands such as Gaia Skin Naturals,

organizations, such as BDIH

the undesirable attributes can

factors, including the industry

Natures Organic and the Eco Store

(Germany) or the French

often lack technical data to justify

in question and the consumer’s

brand. In other Asian countries,

certification body, Ecocert.

this perception.

social and environmental

natural and organic claims are

awareness. In many developed

less prominent, as they tackle

made for a specific ingredient

as fair trade and not tested on

markets, green pack claims are

the green trend with the use of

or the entire formulation and,

animals are all perceived as being

rising significantly, particularly

traditional natural ingredients and

if desired, the formulation can

green to some extent by the

in Europe where GNPD Mintel

cold processing, and also claims

then be certified as organic by

consumer; whereas some of these

data indicates that one in seven

based on recyclable and refillable

non-government organizations.

claims are focused on preserving

personal care products launched

packaging. Green claims used

Organic claims for cosmetics

nature and the environment,

into the European market last

across the global personal care

and personal care products

others are concerned with

year listed at least one green

industry can include any of the

fall outside the EU legislation

assisting either the local economy

claim, an increase from the one

following:

of organic labelling as

or localized communities, often in

they are not for human

remote/developing areas.

in ten products reported in the

Natural claims can be

previous year. However, these

cited for either an individual

claims extend beyond natural

ingredient or group of

Organic claims can also be

Social and ethical claims such

consumption.

and organic to include “free from” certain petrochemicals, preservative-free, locally

16

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

The personal care market is without doubt caught up in the global whirlwind of going green. Some in the industry may say that the trend is still in its infancy; but, it is by no means insignificant and gaining momentum at a significant rate. The global natural and organic market is growing at a staggering 10–15% per annum, according to the research company Organic Monitor. The global natural and organic market was valued at $8.0 billion in 2008, with the most developed regions being North America and Western Europe, accounting for a significant 65% and 28%, respectively. However, growth is not as strong in the Asia Pacific region, which has less than 3% market share.

Biodegradable formula claims

Certification Landscape

number of different products from

emissions, which is known as

are not commonplace, but their

several industry sectors. Boots’

carbon offsetting.

emphasis is increasing; GNPD

Botanics shampoo range was

Mintel data shows that three times

one of the first in personal care

word used by the personal

obvious measurable parameters,

more products were launched

to trial the scheme in 2006, with

care industry that is linked to

with Datamonitor indicating that

with a biodegradable formula

the result of an overall reduction

being green. In general terms,

around 9% of all personal care

claim in 2008 compared with

in the range’s carbon footprint

sustainability relies on a careful

products launched in 2008 were

2007. This is a particular focus area

of 20%.1 Since the pilot scheme

balance between the use and

marketed as being natural in

for rinse-off formulations such

and at the request of the project

replenishment of a natural

some way, with 5% of product

as shower gels, shampoos and

sponsors (Carbon Trust and

resource. Qualifying exactly

launches claiming organic

hand washes, as these products

DEFRA), the BSI (British Standards

what constitutes sustainability

content. Yet, even these claims

tend to go more directly into

Institute) has developed a carbon

is very difficult, but there are

are not regulated and are, from

the drainage system within our

footprint standard, PAS 2050,

some organizations that offer

a purist’s point of view, sometimes

homes following application.

which will hopefully make carbon

certification for raw materials.

subject to misuse. As a result, even

As a result, their environmental

footprints more comparable and

One of the most commonly

in the regions where the green

impact is more critical to the living

meaningful to the consumer. In

known certifications is that of the

trend is booming, such as North

organisms within our ecosystem.

addition to “carbon reduced”

FSC (Forest Stewardship Council),

America and Europe, there is still

claims, we are also starting to see

which has globally certified more

some confusion surrounding what

measure the greenhouse gas

a few “carbon neutral” claims

than 280 million acres of forest

constitutes green. To try to elevate

emissions of a product throughout

on cosmetic packs. This usually

as sustainable. Packaging is

some of this confusion, various

its complete lifecycle, to identify

means that the organization

another area put under substantial

organizations have developed

areas for carbon reduction. In

has offset the carbon footprint

scrutiny by greener brands and

standards to which cosmetics can

the UK, the Carbon Trust has

of producing the product by

there are quite a few different

be certified as natural, organic

been piloting a scheme on a

partaking in a project that has

green options, including refillable

or environmentally friendly

a positive impact on carbon

packaging, recyclable packaging

(Table I). With a proliferation

and biodegradable packaging.

of certification bodies, Europe

Carbon footprinting looks to

Sustainability is another key

Natural and organic content are

appears to be leading the way with both private and not for profit organizations exercising their

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

17

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

Natural and/or organic certifications

Europe • Ecocert • Soil Association • AIAB • Eco Garantie • BDIH • Cosmebio • BDIH

Environmentally friendly • EU Flower certifications • Nordic Swan

North America

Asia Pacific

Latin America

• USDA Organic • OASIS • NSF • Natural Products Association (certify only natural products)

• NASAA (National Association for Sustainable Agriculture), Australia

• IBD Certified Organic • IBD Natural Ingredients

• US Environmental Protection Agency • Green Seal • Eco-Label

• Korea Eco-Label • Environmental Choice, Australia

• IBD EcoSocial

Table I: Global certification at a glance. own definitions and standards

certifications within Europe

NSF approval if the product

ingredient suppliers and

for natural and organic

will both coexist and compete

is to be extended into North

cosmetic manufacturer’s

cosmetics. This landscape is

with the COSMOS standard.

America and vice versa.

reactions have been mixed,

now slightly improved with the

One example is the NaTrue

Another group of certification

especially in Europe, with some

European harmonization of six

label, established in 2008

bodies also exists in Europe;

manufacturers choosing not to

current certification bodies:

by a European interest

these are referred to as ‘eco-

certify with a current standard,

Soil Association (UK), Ecocert

group consisting of natural

labels,’ including the Nordic

but instead develop their own

(France), BDIH (Germany), AIAB/

and organic cosmetics

Swan and EU Flower eco-label.

values and criteria for green.

ICEA (Italy), BioForum (Belgium)

manufacturers. NaTrue are

These eco-labels focus more

Ingredient suppliers also react

and Cosmebio (France). These

aiming for a truly global

heavily on detergent systems

in different ways; again, some

six organizations launched a

standard with complete

and their environmental

have developed their own rating

final draft of their harmonized

transparency and offer a three

impact, in their aim to reduce

scales, whilst others such as

standards — COSMOS Natural

star approach, depending

water pollution, minimize waste

Croda have chosen not to go

and Organic Cosmetic

on whether the product is

and prevent potential risks for

down the numerous certification

Standards — in June 2009 and

made from natural, natural

the environment.

routes. Instead, they are inviting

plan to launch the agreed

with organic or organic

standards in April 2010.

Other regions are expected

customers to get “Up Close

ingredients. They have signed

to look to Europe for guidance

and Green” with them and

an equivalency agreement

on certification and eagerly

review their green credentials

standards go some way to

with the National Science

anticipate the European

in a Green Guide that allows

tackle the overcrowding

Foundation (NSF) in North

harmonized COSMOS

formulators to make selections

of certifications, it will not

America, which means that

standards, especially as many

based on the green criteria they

completely eradicate

products certified by NaTrue

other regions — including

value most. A Green Formulary

the confusion, as other

are also guaranteed to gain

North America and Asia

also allows formulators to

Pacific — have a growing

understand the spectrum

number of certifications and

of greenness that they can

accreditations of their own.

achieve for a variety of different

North America has a number

formulation categories.

Although the COSMOS

TWELVE Principles of Green Chemistry

• Waste Prevention: it is safer and easier to prevent waste than it is to clean it up.

• Atom Economy: reactions should be designed to incorporate all of the substrate into the final product. This is why rearrangement and addition reactions are better than substitution and elimination.

• Less Hazardous Chemical Synthesis: Chemical synthetic methods should contain little or no toxic substances.

• Safer Chemicals: For a desired product, the chemicals should be of the lowest toxicity possible.

• Safer Auxiliaries: The use of auxiliaries such as solvents or separating agents should be avoided whenever possible; but, if necessary, they should hold little if any toxicity.

• Energy Efficiency: Energy usage should be minimized whenever possible; this may involve the use of more ambient pressures and temperatures.

• Use of Renewable Feedstock: It is better to use a renewable raw material than a depleting source.

• Reduce Derivatives: Additional steps such as the use of protecting or deprotecting groups should be avoided, as they can create additional waste.

• Catalysis: Catalytic reagents that are as selective as possible are superior to stoichiometric reagents.

• Design for Degradation: The final products should pose no threat to the environment once broken down.

• Real-Time Analysis for Pollution Prevention.

• Inherently Safer Chemistry for Accident Prevention: Substances should be chosen on the basis of minimal accident potential.

18

of certifications for natural and OASIS and USDA Organic.

More Than Natural and Organic

Asia Pacific has the National

Although natural and organic

Association for Sustainable

claims are prevalent in North

Agriculture Australia (NASAA)

America and Europe, other

and several eco-labels

green parameters are often

including the Korea eco-

considered by manufacturers,

labelling programme, which

especially in Asia, where

aims to reduce the consumption

going green is an energy or

of energy and resources and

waste saving exercise and

to minimize the generation of

thoughts are more in line with

pollution during production.

the 12 principles of green

organic cosmetics, including

With so many different

chemistry (see sidebar). 2 When

standards to choose from,

it comes to reducing energy

key personal care ingredient

input and processing costs,

suppliers and finished

cold-processable ingredients

goods manufacturers have

can often provide a greener

an influential role when it

solution. For manufactures

comes to adopting any

looking to make savings in every

of these standards. So far,

aspect of the product lifecycle,

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

there is an option to use

injustice; a recent study

cold-processable ingredients,

showed around 70 – 80% of

eliminating the need for high

North American and 23 –30% of

temperatures and unnecessary

Asian products to be marketed

energy costs. These ingredients

in this way. 4

can range from emulsifiers, such

Owing to the diversity of

as Arlatone V-175, through to

the green trend, it is important

inorganic sunscreens such as

to try to understand who the

Solaveil Clarus.

green consumers are and are not. Many market research

Consumer Understanding

companies in North America

With so many different claims

to understand the various

being made, it is hard for the

consumer groups. Natural

consumer to know what to

Marketing Institute (NMI) is

look for to ensure they are not

one very good example that

being “green washed.” 3 Green

has identified five classes of

washing is one of the latest

consumers in North America.

buzzwords being used by the

The LOHAS, which stands

industry and media to describe

for Lifestyles of Health and

how some green claims may

Sustainability, account for 19%

it will be the Drifters and the

economic growth; this, and

be dishonest or misleading to

of the mix; they are driven by

Unconcerned that will threaten

recent health scares such as

the consumer. There are six sins

health and environment issues

the strength and longevity of

the chromium and neodymium

associated with green washing:

and play a big role in sustaining

the green trend.

contamination, are likely to see

have invested time in trying

With no official definition,

As well as the strong health

a significant impact on green

and environmental values

consumer demands. Also, as

translation or interpretation,

held by the LOHAS, the study

imported brands make their

also showed them to value

presence felt within Asia, and

the meaning of green can depend

efficacy of products very

domestic brands provide the

highly, demonstrating that

market with knowledge and

on many factors, including

applications and/or clinical

confidence, the green trend

the industry in question and

evidence is very much key

looks set to prosper. PHM

to a product’s success. This

the consumer’s social and environmental awareness • T he hidden trade-off:

the trend. Naturalists also

may go some way to explain why natural deodorants and sunscreens have not taken off as fast as other personal care sectors.

emphasizing just one

account for 19%, but they are

environmental improvement,

driven by personal health more

Conclusion

whilst possibly compromising

than the environment and,

Despite some accreditation

on others

much like the LOHAS, they are

and certification confusion,

avid users of green products.

the personal care industry

documentation to support

The largest segment (25%)

seems united in the belief that

claims

comprises the Drifters, who are

the green trend will continue.

driven by the latest trends and

In regions where the trend

clear enough; nothing is ever

are also sensitive to price and

is already well established,

“chemical-free,” for example

issues in the media. The fourth

such as North America and

group (19%), the Conventionals,

Europe, double-digit growth is

relevant; take “CFC-free,” for

is driven by practicality and

predicted for the next 5 years;

example, this is a requirement

may partake in some green

and, with the harmonization

not a claim

issues, such as recycling and

of standards, green claims are

energy conservation. Finally,

expected to become more

the remaining 17% are the

regulated and sophisticated.

Unconcerned; although not

In Asia Pacific, growth is likely

a greener alternative is not

currently driven by green

to be led by Australia, New

necessarily better, such as

issues, these consumers may

Zealand, Korea, Malaysia,

organic cigarettes.

be targeted as products go

Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan

Green washing is a growing

into more mainstream retailers.

and Singapore, although

concern throughout all industry

As issues in the media and

other regions such as India

sectors and not without

economic pressures take hold,

and China have seen strong

• N o proof: no official

• Vagueness: claims not being

• I rrelevance: claims are not

• F ibbing: claims are simply untrue • T he lesser of two evils: where

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

References

1. Boots UK Ltd, “Product Carbon Labelling Case Study,” Publication ID CTS053 (www.carbontrust.co.uk/ publications/publicationdetail. htm?productid=CTS053).

2. P.T. Anastas and J.C. Warner, Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice (Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK, 1998).

3. Terra Choice Environmental Marketing, “The Six Sins of Green Washing,” www.terrachoice.com.

4. Euromonitor, “More companies claiming false green initiatives,” Countries and Consumer (July 2008).

For more information

Rachel Wright Croda Europe Cowick Hall Snaith, Goole DN14 9AA, UK. Tel. +44 1405 860 551 Rachel.Wright@croda.com www.croda.co.uk

19

Antiageing

Solid Science Underpins Hair and Skincare Success Eternal youth and robust health have become an ongoing quest for our ageing population. Antiageing products have become a powerful driving force in the nutra/ cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic markets; the latest projections predict growth in each of these sectors, even in today’s economically depressed world. After all, the number of pensioners as a proportion of the population is growing and the desire to look younger is not only the preserve of the old; youth and beauty are universally coveted.

I

ncreasingly, hair and

developers is now wholly

in maintaining skin elasticity,

microtopography, that the oral

skincare products are

concerned with developing

minimizing the appearance of

use of marine collagen-based

seen as part of our daily

environmentally sustainable,

wrinkles. As we age, our body

formulations can reduce the

routine rather than a luxury.

100% safe, totally natural raw

loses its ability to make collagen;

effects of photoageing and time

Although cash-strapped

materials that “harness the power

from as early as the mid-twenties,

that lead to blemishes, loss of

consumers are abandoning the

of science, naturally.” Waitaki

collagen starts to break down at

elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles.

salons, they refuse to sacrifice

Biosciences of New Zealand is one

a rate of 1.5% per year. Marine

In one study, a 90 day treatment

home-based products. Even as

— a company that harvests the

collagen, such as that supplied

period with a marine protein-

income drops, the antiageing

sheltered coastal areas of New

by Waitaki, has a history of use as

based formulation increased

skincare market is expected to

Zealand for a rich source of raw

an oral supplement designed to

epidermal thickness from 0.11 to

grow by 20% at inflation-adjusted

materials from seawater that is

provide nutrients for the purpose

0.29 mm, dermal thickness from

prices during the next 5 years.1

rich in food and free of pollutants.

of supporting skin, nail and hair

0.74 to 1.39 mm and skin elasticity

health, in addition to structural

indices increased from 44–73%.3

Consumers are no fools, either.

Boosting Healing from Within

tissue. Marine collagen contains

A subsequent study reported a

are brought into formulations,

and provides an essential amino

significant improvement in skin

convincing promises must

Waitaki Biosciences specializes

acid, hydroxyproline, which

quality in both objective and

increasingly be backed by solid

in producing innovative natural

is a critical building block for

subjective parameters compared

science. New products must also

ingredients. These include marine

collagen synthesis. Finished

with a placebo after 2, 4 and

tick other all-important boxes:

species that are native to New

products containing Waitaki

6 months of treatment with a

they have to be produced in

Zealand’s pristine coastal waters,

marine collagen protein complex

proprietary formulation that

an environmentally sustainable,

ranging from Greenshell mussels,

generally include zinc, an enzyme

contained marine protein.4

responsible way and be naturally

which offer lipids, omega-3 fatty

cofactor involved in collagen

sourced. However, research

acids and protein, to fish proteins

synthesis, vitamin C, also known

also be obtained from bovine

demonstrates that this growing

including collagen from other

to be involved in the synthesis of

sources. Waitaki Biosciences’ pure

demand for natural and organic

selected fish sources. Waitaki’s

collagen and an array of various

New Zealand bovine cartilage

alternatives is now jostling with skin

freeze-dried marine collagen

antioxidants such as vitamin E and

powders, for example, contain

science for consumers’ attention,

is widely used in cosmetic

plant extracts.

significant levels of naturally

creating overcrowding and

and nutritional supplements.

confusion in the market.2 From

Recognized by consumers as a

the manufacturer’s perspective,

As new, innovative ingredients

Safe, natural collagen can

occurring type II collagen in addition to chondroitin sulphate.

valuable component of naturally

Marine Collagen Products in Action

this represents a tough conflict

healthy joints, collagen is one of

Research has been able to

contains a synergistic ratio of

of interests. To ease this burden,

the most abundant proteins in

quantify, using VAS (Visual

the critical compounds that are

a new breed of ingredient

the body and is also a key factor

Analogue Scales) and 3D

essential for a radiant complexion,

20

Soluble Collagen II Complex

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

including 40% hydrolysed type II

use in shampoos, conditioners

collagen, which has the ability

and intensive hair masques.

to attract and retain moisture.

Manufactured to the highest

This makes it a valuable addition

quality and safety standards,

to hair, nail and skincare

Collamex is a pure, natural

applications. It is also extremely

ingredient produced using

versatile: available in a highly

bioavailable New Zealand

soluble, fine and free-flowing

sources.

powder form, it can be used in

The ingredient’s low molecular

application of a commercially

beverage, topical skin, personal

weight chondroitin sulphate,

available hair dye. Collamex was

and proven performance. So

care, dietary and nutricosmetic

small peptides and amino acids

applied to the hair in an aqueous

do manufacturers of cosmetics

supplement applications.

deliver an intensive boost of

solution after colour application.

and hair and skincare products.

moisture that penetrates deep

The tensile properties of single

Suppliers such as Waitaki

Natural Moisture and Protection for Hair

into the hair cuticle. The larger

hair fibres — 50 from each tress —

Biosciences can help both sides

collagen molecules create a film

were then tested by determining

to meet their objectives by

Most people associate collagen

around the hair strand, locking in

how much effort was required to

providing effective, naturally

with skin, but it is a significant

moisture and protecting it from

extend the fibres by 20%. When

sourced products that are

protein for the whole body,

the effects of harsh styling and

applied at a 3% concentration,

supported by technical

including the hair. At the root

colouring treatments. In trials,

collagen and chondroitin-based

applications research. PHM

of every hair molecule, the hair

Collamex not only significantly

Collamex resulted in significantly

bulb is surrounded by a sheath

decreased the chemical damage

improved tensile properties and

of collagen that connects

associated with perming hair,

demonstrated a reparative effect

to microvessels that deliver

but added significant protection

on hair strength in dyed hair.

necessary nutrients for thick, shiny

to coloured hair.5 Coloured hair

hair. As collagen deficiency leads

treated with a Collamex solution

the Collamex-enriched product

to weak, dull and flat hair strands,

also demonstrated improved

was five times more effective in

innovative collagen-based hair

elasticity and resistance to

increasing hair’s tensile strength

care ingredients are increasingly

breaking compared with hair

than a standard conditioner.

coveted by consumers of all

that was not treated after

When applied prior to chemical

ages. Three years of research and

dyeing.5 In the latter trial, hair

treatment, Collamex was found

testing by Waitaki Biosciences

tresses were washed in sodium

to significantly reduce the

resulted in the development of

laurylethylsulphate solution,

associated chemical damage

Collamex, a natural collagen

rinsed and air dried according to

and leave hair virtually as

and chondroitin sulphate-rich

standard procedure prior to the

strong as non-treated hair. With

complex, specifically designed for

Indeed, the study proved that

consumer expenditure on shampoos and conditioners expected to rise to £561 million by 2012, manufacturers looking to boost profitability are well advised to deliver multifunctional formulations backed up by scientific research.6 With proven cosmetic and functional benefits and a collagen-rich claim that consumers know and value, Collamex offers a valuable new route to the next wave of hair care.

Natural Ingredients, Scientifically Proven Performance Despite the overall decline in the retail segment, the UK health and beauty market is set to grow by 2.7% in 2009.7 Media obsession with health and youth will ensure that young and old alike will be looking to prevent the ageing process.

Consumers value natural origin

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

References

1. Datamonitor, Skincare: Global Industry Guide, February 2009 (www.researchandmarkets.com/ reports/54470).

2. Mintel, Facial Skincare — UK, June 2008 (http://academic. mintel.com/sinatra/oxygen/ display/id=227712).

3. A . Eskelinin and J. Santalhti, “Natural Cartilage Polysaccharides for the Treatment of Sun Damaged Skin in Females,” J. Int. Med. Res. 20(3), 277–233 (1992).

4. E. Thom, “A Randomized, Double Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study on the Clinical Efficacy of Oral Treatment with DermaVite on Aging Symptoms of the Skin,” J. Int. Med. Res. 33(3), 267–272 (2005).

5. Research conducted by AgResearch, November 2008/ January 2009 (www.agresearch.co.nz).

6. M intel, Shampoos and Conditioners — UK, June 2009 (http://oxygen.mintel.com/sinatra/ oxygen/display/id=394187).

7. Research and Markets, UK Health and Beauty Retailers 2009, July 2009 (www.researchandmarkets.com).

For more information

Sue Finderup Product Manager Waitaki Biosciences PO Box 19-727, Woolston Christchurch 8241, New Zealand.

Tel. +64 3 337 6096 info@waitakibio.co.nz www.waitakibio.com

21

Photoprotection

Sun Protection sun protection from the inside.

carotene neutralizes harmful

These beneficial nutrients can

UV radiation, preventing it

be incorporated into dietary

from penetrating and causing

supplements, a convenient, well-

damage within the deeper, living

established and popular carrier

layers of the skin. Also known as

endogenous influences, the skin is also

method for nutrients that support

provitamin A, beta-carotene is

affected by external damage such as

beauty from within. In addition,

part of a family of carotenoids

injury, air pollution and micro-organisms

they can also be used in the fast

that are natural photosynthetic

growing category of functional

pigments commonly found

foods or beverages to promote

in brightly coloured fruit and

skin health and beauty.

vegetables. When used alone

The by

skin’s a

number

natural and

appearance of

ageing,

hormones.

is

determined

factors,

diet, In

including

stress,

addition

genetics to

these

that enter the body through cuts or lesions. Another major source of skin damage is UV radiation from sunlight,

or mixed with other carotenoids,

which can cause sunburn and even skin

Healthy Cells

the UV protection provided by

cancer. Moreover, long-term UV exposure

A natural, vitamin-like

beta-carotene is comparable

can

compound, CoQ10 is found

with that provided by an artificial

in most cells throughout the

suntan lotion with an SPF of 2–4. In

human body. CoQ10 functions in

addition to supporting the skin’s

numerous metabolic processes

resistance to sunburn, beta-

and plays a fundamental role

carotene also helps to prevent

in the production of energy in

the premature ageing of the skin caused by sun exposure.

lead

to

(photoageing),

premature which

is

skin

ageing

characterized

by sagging and wrinkling of the skin and higher numbers of pigmented spots.

C

onsumer

simple and convenient ways of

the mitochondria. It is also a

awareness of the

countering the damaging effects

potent antioxidant that helps to

skin’s appearance

of the sun. Although traditional

protect the mitochondria from

and health is

suntan lotions can help to protect

free radical damage. Exposure

particularly high

the skin against the damaging

of the skin to UV radiation

in the months leading up to

effects of UV radiation, the effect

generates oxidative stress and

summer, as preparations for the

is temporary and they need

causes mitochondrial damage.

holiday season begin. Moreover,

to be applied regularly. Also,

This leads to an accumulation of

with the ageing effects and

suntan lotions are generally only

defects in the energy production

dangers of sun exposure now

used when prolonged exposure

process, causing the skin to age

well publicized, image-conscious

is planned or expected, such

prematurely. However, research

consumers are starting to look for

as during a summer holiday.

indicates that CoQ10 may

This means that the skin is not

delay skin ageing by protecting

protected from exposure to UV

mitochondrial integrity and

during everyday life. As such,

maintaining skin energy

additional methods of supporting

metabolism.1–5 As the body’s

and promoting the health of the

natural ability to synthesize

skin are gaining popularity with

CoQ10 diminishes with age,

consumers.

it is important to ensure an

New ways to protect the skin

adequate supply of CoQ10

from the damaging effects of

through other sources. For

UV radiation are now emerging,

example, DSM’s ALL-Q is a highly

even from within the dietary

bioavailable CoQ10 formulation

supplement industry. Several

that can be incorporated into

nutrients have been shown to

dietary supplements, or used in

offer a degree of continuous

water-based beverages, dairy

skin protection from UV radiation

products and other functional

damage. Natural compounds

foods. 6

New ways of protecting the skin from UV radiation are now emerging, even from within the dietary supplement industry.

such as coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) and beta-carotene have already demonstrated skin health benefits and new

22

Natural UV Protection The skin’s natural defences against damage from UV

formulations

radiation include substances

are now being

such as beta-carotene. Produced

developed

within the skin’s outer layer of

to create

dead cells, the epidermis, beta-

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

from the Inside Research by DSM Nutritional

and scaling. To develop

is essential to maintain the

usage. The natural health

Products has demonstrated

products containing multiple

appearance and health of

benefits of compounds such as

that beta-carotene helps to

ingredients that work in synergy,

the skin. Dietary supplements

coenzyme Q10 and carotenoids

prevent the stimulation of

many dietary supplement and

and functional foods offer

are now being harnessed,

specific enzymes by UVA light.7

functional food and beverage

a convenient method of

promoting the health of skin

Activation of these enzymes has

manufacturers are collaborating

enhancing the skin’s natural

cells and their organelles to

been shown to destroy collagen,

with DSM. Through Quali-Blends,

defences against UV damage

prevent long-term damage to

the main component of the

DSM provides high quality,

and supporting suntan lotion

the skin. PHM

skin, contributing to premature

stable blends of ingredients in

ageing. Furthermore, beta-

customized premix formulations. 8

carotene also plays an important

Effective protection against the

role in maintaining general skin

damaging and ageing effects

health by supporting the normal

of exposure to UV radiation

differentiation (maturation) and

About the Author

development of skin cells.

Combining beta-carotene with other dietary carotenoids — such as lutein, zeaxanthin and lycopene — can generate extra support for skin health. Moreover, clinical trials have indicated that taking supplemental carotenoids with antioxidants can achieve a reduction in sunburn as well as an improvement in skin conditions such as roughness

Dr Isabelle Frappa Global Business Manager Beauty from Within DSM Nutritional Products

For more information

Emma Peyrachon DSM Nutritional Products Tel. +41 61 815 8354 emma.peyrachon@dsm.com www.dsm.com

References

1. R . Goralczyk and K. Wertz, “Skin Photoprotection by Carotenoids,” in G. Britton, et al. (Eds.), Carotenoids: Nutrition and Health, Volume 5 (Birkhäuser, Basel, Switzerland, 2009) pp 335–362.

2. K. Wertz, et al., “ß-Carotene Inhibits UVA-Induced Matrix Metalloprotease 1 and 10 Expression in Keratinocytes by a Singlet Oxygen-Dependent Mechanism,” Free Radic. Biol. Med. 37(5), 654–670 (2004).

3. K. Wertz, et al., “ß-Carotene Interference with UVA-Induced Gene Expression by Multiple Pathways,” Pure Appl. Chem.

78(8), 1539–1550 (2006).

4. M . Trekli, et al., “ß-Carotene Suppresses UVA-Induced HO-1 Gene Expression in Cultured FEK4,” Free Radic. Biol. Med. 34(4), 456–464 (2003).

5. J. Eicker, et al., “ß-Carotene Supplementation Protects from Photoaging-Associated Mitochondrial DNA Mutation,“ Photochem. Photobiol.

Sci. 2, 655–659 (2003).

6. ALL-Q is a registered trademark of DSM Royal NV (the Netherlands).

7. U. Heinrich, et al., “Antioxidant Supplements Improve Parameters Related to Skin Structure in Humans,” Skin Pharmacol. Physiol. 19(4), 224–231 (2006).

8. Quali-Blends is a registered trademark of Royal DSM NV (the Netherlands).

Herbs For Health Nature’s Herb Co. Since 1915

Green Energy Colon Cleansing Diet Tea ‘Naturally’

SEE WEBSItE FOR FuLL LINE OF HERBAL CAPSuLES San Francisco Herb and Natural Food Co. ® 47444 Kato Road, Fremont, CA 94538 Tel: 800-227-2830 Fax: 510-770-9021

www.herbspicetea.com

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Magnolia Bark Actives to Prevent Inflamm’aging of the Skin Inflammation is an important way for our bodies to react to infection and foreign pathogens. Paradoxically, the same process that our immune system uses to protect our bodies from infection can also lead to visible signs of ageing. In

in chronic inflammation.1 As

the process of ageing, the immune system becomes less

we age, we tend to develop

effective

autoimmune conditions as well

and

its

capacity

to

manage

the

inflammatory

response is reduced. This can lead to chronic inflammation.

This process is characterized by a slow but continuous

as chronic inflammation. It is no wonder that chronic inflammation contributes to the ageing process

production of free radicals that aggravates wrinkles, fine

because it overwhelms tissues

lines and sagging skin. Besides, as we grow older, we become

with free radicals and promotes

more susceptible to chronic inflammation. Let’s explore how chronic inflammation is associated with skin ageing.

the destruction of normal cells.

During chronic inflammation, the immune system produces low levels of the key molecular

Acute and Chronic Inflammation

a number of physiological

compounds when needed and

players, such as prostaglandins,

events occur in an effort to

then turning them off with anti-

cytokines and nuclear factor-

Acute inflammation is the short-

eliminate those pathogens. The

inflammatory compounds when

kappa B (NF-κB).2 Like most

term immune response that our

inflammatory response represents

the threat has been sufficiently

ageing mechanisms, chronic

body mounts in cases of trauma,

a complex network of events

addressed. If infection remains,

inflammation creates a vicious

infection and allergy. Without

designed to facilitate a return to

inflammation may become

cycle. The ageing process tends

inflammation, we would not be

physiological homeostasis and

chronic and continue for weeks

to increase the level of chronic

able to survive in a hostile world

tissue repair. Acute inflammation

or even years. Sometimes,

inflammation and that, in turn,

infested with hazardous micro-

is characterized by a number

chronic inflammation may

accelerates ageing. When the

organisms. In fact, people with

of phenomena, including an

persist even without significant

skin is involved, it can accelerate

a compromised inflammatory

increase in local blood flow,

infection, either because the

fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged

response capacity — from drugs or

the migration and activation of

inflammation response has

pores, as well as puffiness,

an immune system malfunction —

immune cells in the affected area,

become too sensitive or because

sagging, blotchiness or reddening

could develop a life-threatening

the release of large amounts of

the immune system begins to

of the skin: the ultimate cause

infection even from ordinarily

free radicals in a short period of

perceive some of the body’s

being the breakdown of collagen

harmless micro-organisms.1

time, the destruction of normal

own tissues as being foreign.

and elastin fibres.

Inflammation involves a number of

tissue, scar tissue deposition and

Chronic inflammation continues

responses that destroy or, at least,

so on.2

to stimulate proinflammatory

slow down invading pathogens.

In a perfect world, this response

components when they may

Fighting Inflamm’aging

When foreign pathogens are

takes place just as it should,

not be needed. As such, ageing

NF-κB) is an important

identified by the immune system,

releasing proinflammatory

is associated with an increase

transcription factor in the

24

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

Magnolia officinalis is a natural

determined that the magnolol

water are used to obtain an

many proinflammatory stimuli

Inhibitor of NF-κB. It is a medicinal

and honokiol components

extract of Magnolia bark. This

can activate it. NF-κB exists in

plant belonging to the Chinese

of Magnolia officinalis are

solution is then sprayed onto

a latent state in the cytoplasm,

pharmacopoeia and its bark

one thousand times more

a carrier of maltodextrin and

bound to specific inhibitory

has been used for thousands

potent than alpha-tocopherol

phospholipids. The result is an

proteins (IκBs or Inhibitors of κB).

of years in Asia to treat the

(vitamin E) in their antioxidant

alcohol-free powder that contains

The degradation of IκB proteins

stagnation of qi (lack of energy)

activity.5 Magnolol also has

preliposomes (MAXnolia). When

initiates a signal that ultimately

and, more precisely, digestive

antidepressive, antiallergic and

MAXnolia is formulated in a

activates NF-κB. This takes place

disorders, anxiety and allergic

antiasthma effects whereas

cream, these preliposomes turn

via the activation of a kinase

diseases. In Japan, two of the

honokiol is anxiolytic.

immediately into liposomes in

named IκB kinase (IKK). When

most popular herbal medicines

activated, often by extracellular

— saiboku-to and hange-

signals, IKK phosphorylates

kobuku-to — contain magnolia

two serine residues in IκB that

regulation of inflammation;

the water phase and the active ingredients are incorporated into

bark and have been used to

Preparing Magnolia Bark for Cosmetic Use

trigger its degradation by the

treat disorders from bronchial

Owing to the low solubility of

advantages, including the fact

proteasome. NF-κB is then free to

asthma to depression to anxiety.

magnolol and honokiol in water,

that the resulting ingredient is

enter into the nucleus to regulate

Magnolol and honokiol are the

it has been necessary to develop

the transcription of multiple

two pharmacologically active

a proprietary procedure to

free, with good skin delivery

proinflammatory mediator genes

substances present in Magnolia

extract the active substances

because of the liposomes.

and matrix-metalloproteinases

bark. These two low molecular

for use in a water-soluble

(MMPs). Finally, NF-κB is turned

weight lignans synergistically

ingredient. Ethanol and

off by itself. In the skin, an excess

reduce inflammation by inhibiting

of reactive oxygen species (ROS)

NF-κB activation and activity

can make NF-κB chronically

through IKK (IκB kinase) enzyme

active, leading to a continued

inactivation.3 As a result, the

release of inflammatory

production of inducible-nitric

mediators and, thus, to chronic

oxide synthase (iNOS), interleukin 8

inflammation. ROS can be over-

(IL-8), tumour necrosis factor alpha

generated by ageing, external

(TNF-α) and COX-2 is inhibited.4 In

stresses (such as UV, pollution,

addition, they have antioxidant,

toxins, chemical irritants) and

antibacterial and antiangiogenic

internal ones (lifestyle, diet, lack

effects and can relieve spasms.

of sleep).

Japanese researchers have

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

the lecithin bilayer membranes.

The process has a number of

preservative-free and alcohol-

25

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS -3.0

-3.5

-4.0

%

-4.5

-5.0

-5.5

-6.0

Placebo

0.5% MAXnolia

Figure 1: Reduction of facial skin redness after 28 days of treatment with a 0.5% MAXnolia cream compared with a placebo (p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo).

(Courage and Khazaka) and a

Determination of the anti-redness

Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

effect: A clinical study was done

was determined on the face

for 4 weeks with 20 women who

using an AquaFlux Model AF200

had visible facial skin redness.

(Biox Systems Ltd, London, UK).

A cosmetic product containing

At day 0, the parameters were

0.5% MAXnolia was applied,

determined in the test areas

twice a day, on one side of the

under standardized conditions

face and a placebo cream

and the first application of the

was applied to the other side

products was done. From day

(vehicle-controlled half side

1 to 28, the test products were

comparison). Skin redness was

applied twice a day and, at

determined by measuring the

day 28, the parameters were

parameter a* in the L*a*b* colour

measured again. Results showed

system using a chromameter.

that the cream containing

a* characterizes colour intensity

MAXnolia significantly increased

— from green to red — and

skin hydration and firmness and

an increase of a* indicates an

decreased TEWL compared with

increase in the red constituent

the placebo (Figure 2). PHM

of the skin. Results showed that significantly reduced half-side facial skin redness compared

30

with the placebo (Figure 1).

Evaluation of the antiageing effect on the eye contour area:

20

A cream containing 0.5% of the active was applied twice a day on the eye contour area to

10

evaluate its antiwrinkle effect.

The clinical trial was done for 2 months with 21 volunteers aged

0

from 35 to 58. Two parameters were assessed using a Cutometer SEM 575 (Courage and Khazaka

-10

Firmness

Hydration

TEWL

Figure 2: Improvement in skin firmness and hydration after applying a cream containing MAXnolia (0.5%) for 4 weeks (p<0.05 versus initial conditions and placebo).

GmbH, Cologne, Germany): skin elasticity and skin fatigue, which indicate the loss of elasticity caused by repetitive mechanical stresses (skin elasticity tends to decrease with age whereas

Conclusion

and effects on the daily life cess with very direct pro a is sensory n jor ski ma a the is of Ageing ual. The skin well-being of an individ ial d soc an d s an ism al an gic org olo psych ainst infectious first line of defence ag rature. ’s pe dy bo tem the dy is bo it ; ng an olli org rtant role in contr po im y ver a ys ep pla it to not only help us ke physical harm, and cess will, therefore, pro g ein ag n’s the ski for effects Slowing down the likely have beneficial arance but will most healing process: ’s dy bo a more youthful appe the of rt is an essential pa n tio ma am diseaseInfl . ism whole organ tem tries to fight off when the immune sys el lev ar tissue llul of ce ss the ce at it occurs rmal, healthy pro injured tissue. This no air rep y factors d tor an s ma rm am ge infl causing of large quantities of on cti du pro the to fore repairs can start. repair leads inevitably d or infected tissue be ge ma da ic the of rid er individuals), chron while the body gets ed (more likely in old ish fin un t l lef kio is no ss ho ce d by magnolol an However, if this pro ion of NF-κB activity ibit inh g e ein Th ag r. cu n’s oc ski n is linked to the inflammation ca matory process, which am infl the ic of g ron ch nin de the red helps to stop les, blotchiness and opment of lines, wrink -based ingredient olia gn Ma process and the devel the t tha in this article show ted sen pre s ss in facial ult res red e skin. Th re and reduces ne sticity, restores moistu ela n ski the antiof s ere los wh ts y preven in the skin qualit vement was achieved pro im l ral ove An n. ski ient was applied. inflamm’aging ingred

26

Cutometer MPA 580, respectively.

the Magnolia-based ingredient

40

Change compared to initial conditions

Clinical Study Results

skin fatigue increases). Results showed that a Magnolia extractbased cream increased the skin elasticity of the crow’s feet and decreased skin fatigue compared with the placebo.

Enhancing Skin Quality A general improvement of the skin was determined on volunteers aged from 54 to 78 after 28 days in vivo. A cream containing 0.5% MAXnolia was applied to both the face and the inner side of the forearms. Skin hydration and firmness were measured on the inner side of the forearms using a Corneometer MPA 5 CPU

References

1. F. Licastro, et al., “Innate Immunity and Inflammation in Ageing: A Key for Understanding Age-Related Diseases,” Immun.

Ageing 2, 8 (2005).

2. R.N. Mitchel and R.S. Cotran, “Acute and Chronic Inflammation,” in V. Kumar, et al. (Eds.), Robbins Basic Pathology (Saunders, Elsevier BV, Amsterdam, the Netherlands, 2003).

3. A.K-W. Tse, et al., “Magnolol Suppresses NF-κB Activation and NF-κB Regulated Gene Expression Through Inhibition of the IKK Enzyme Activation,” Mol. Immunol.

44, 2647–2658 (2007).

4. J.S. Lee, et al., “Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Magnolol and Honokiol are Mediated Through Inhibition of the Downstream Pathway of MEKK-1 in NF-κB Activation Signalling,” Planta Medica 71(4), 338–343 (2005).

5. Y.C. Lo, et al., “Magnolol and Honokiol Isolated from Magnolia officinalis Protect Rat Heart Mitochondria Against Lipid Peroxidation,” Biochem. Pharmacol.

47(3), 549–553 (1994).

For more information

Sandra Meister Marketing & Sales Coordinator Mibelle Biochemistry Bolimattstrasse 1 CH-5033 Buchs, Switzerland.

Tel. +41 62 836 1731 sandra.meister@mibelle.ch www.mibellebiochemistry.com

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

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PACKAGING

P a c k e d with Ideas

and Inspiration More

than

4200

brand

managers,

packaging

technologists, product developers and production managers

attended

Innovations,

EcoPack,

events

I

at

the

NEC

the

easyFairs

PackTech

and

(Birmingham,

Packaging

Contract

UK)

in

Pack

February.

f you were among

New Services

for children’s

them, you were in good

New for 2010 was a dedicated

toiletries as they’re

company; visitors included

“Print for Packaging Zone.”

collectable and

packaging professionals

Featuring industry giants Epson,

provide real

from companies such

IPIA, Konica, Xeikon and some

shelf standout.

as Tesco, Heinz, Boots, ASDA,

smaller, innovative digital print

Chesapeake

Waitrose and SAB Miller. You were

players, this zone attracted

exhibited CartonBag,

also in line for lots of inspiration;

plenty of interest from buyers

a cunning new

the shows were packed with

looking to accelerate time-

concept that is

an array of new packaging

to-market or to nimbly shift

a lighter-weight

materials and design concepts,

their on-pack messaging in

alternative to a bag

sustainable solutions, machinery,

response to market conditions.

in a carton. And, for

technology and outsourcing

Cosmetics manufacturers who

equally out-of-the-box

services — all on offer from some

wonder what catches the

thinking, Pendragon

400 exhibitors. For those involved

consumer’s eye were able to

showed a number of

in the packaging of cosmetics

get answers from Eyetracker, a

innovations, including

and personal care products,

unique technology that gives

a box — created for

there were some particularly

brand owners unparalleled

Harrods — that has lights

interesting products and services

insight into consumer behaviour.

that illuminate when it’s

to check out.

Eyetracker hosted a special

opened.

feature, as part of easyFairs packaging innovations,

whereby

Quadpack focused on its Six and Filorga ranges.

visitors could experience the

Filorga’s ‘medical style’

equipment in action and see

design suits products

the impact of different pack

destined for cosmetic

styles on consumer

surgeries or health clinics.

behaviour.

The collection includes a unique, refillable, airless

New Concepts

airless tubes and BMB

People attend

dip-tube packs. For more

trade shows to learn

packaging that works hand in

about new products

glove with product innovation,

and services ... and there was an array of new ideas, technologies

28

syringe; airless containers;

Toly’s newly patented design for portable liquid foundation — crème luxe — is a classic

and suppliers on

example. This clever make-up

show. Within easyFairs

delivery system integrates the

packaging innovations,

benefits of a compact with the

M&H Plastics showcased

convenience and appeal of

its ‘CHARACTER’

a liquid foundation. They also

bottles. These are ideal

showcased Dual Airless, a new

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PACKAGING

twin airless pack containing two

Polythene UK’s stand where it

15 mL airless tubes that dispense

featured its Polylite product.

through the nozzle, mixing the

Polythene UK also showcased

product at the point of use.

its new compostable bags,

Lageen Tuboplast’s raised

Polycomp, which are mainly

surface printing on flexible

made of

tubes adds texture and grip,

starch and

making it ideal for products

biodegrade in

that need to be held in wet

just 10 days. In

conditions, such as toiletries and

addition to its new

beauty products. Equally, with

biodegradable

an emphasis on the practical,

plastic product,

Plasticum’s new MaxiDose

Biothene, CFN

Oval snap-on 25 closure has a

Packaging’s

finger recess area that makes

stand featured its

the lid easy to open with just

“Patient’s Medicines

one hand. For those looking for

Bag,” a durable polythene bag

new suppliers, the show was a

into which patients place all

first outing for Crusader on the

their medication before going to

Pollard Boxes stand. Crusader

hospital or visiting their GP.

offers trade embossing, foil

The shows were packed with an array of new materials and design concepts,

blocking, foil embossing, film

Contract Packing

lamination, die cutting and

Companies looking to

carton gluing. Also on display

outsource their packing

on the RPC stand were samples

had plenty of companies

from RPC Bramlage’s extended

vying for their attention

standard range, RPC Wiko’s

at easyFairs

renowned Magic Star dispenser

including Catalent Pharma

family and the innovative Gizmo

Solutions. A leading provider

bottle and container filling,

pressurized device for closures.

of outsourced clinical and

block bottom bags, flow

don’t panic, there is another

commercial packaging services

wrapping, netting and more.

opportunity coming up.

Sustainable Packaging

to the global pharmaceutical

Mailway manages millions of

easyFairs has just announced

and biotechnology industry,

gift set units across the fine

that it’s bringing an easyFairs

With green issues high on most

Catalent showcased its award-

fragrance, personal care and

Packaging I nnovations show

agendas, there was plenty

winning work supporting

cosmetics sector every year.

to London this Autumn in

of buzz around easyFairs

GlaxoSmithKline’s efforts to

The company’s full-service

a new event targeting the

ecopack.

meet the global demand

gifting operation incorporates

capital’s design and marketing

showing its NatureFlex range

for a key antiviral drug to

packaging design, supply and

community. The new show

of biodegradable and

treat H1N1 influenza. This was

contract packing. It can deliver

will be hosted at the Business

compostable cellulose-based

recognized at this year’s

the copacking element of the

Design Centre in Islington on

packaging films, which are

European Outsourcing Awards

process as an in-house service

7– 8 October. PHM

ideal for packaging household

ceremony where it won, for

to reduce a client’s transport

products and personal care

the second year in a row, “The

and storage costs; is able to

items. NatureFlex was chosen

Best Contract Manufacturing

offer automated packing

by the ethical handmade

Project” award.

solutions on most carton closure

Innovia Films was

cosmetics company, Lush, to

contract pack ,

Glowcroft offer a complete

sustainable solutions, machinery, technology and outsourcing services.

processes; can deliver solutions

wrap its range of “Happy Easter”

contract packing service

in rigid boxes, tins, shaped

gift eggs. The possibility of

from brand design to printing,

tubes and cartons; and has the

reducing their carbon footprint

packing and distribution. Its

flexibility for bespoke solutions

and the cost of polythene by

services include pouch filling,

that utilize its patented Sunpaq

up to 20% attracted many to

sachet filling (VFFS), carton,

and Aurora systems.

30

If you missed this show,

For more information

Rabinder Aulakh Head of UK Sales easyFairs Tel. +44 208 622 4463 rabinder.aulakh@easyfairs.com www.easyfairs.com

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

d o o f t e r e e e h m W d pharma an a ll e g a r d in g r n io t a , o f in f o r m e c r u ed R&D o li s p e p a iv t , a s r it g r e d ie n t he autho in t d is n ement, T a g B a ls N n ia a r e m t lt h ma ie s , h e a of raw g s lo t o c n e h p ec as e s s in g t c o r p , n io . product a r k e t in g m d n a s trends b u s in e s

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PACKAGING

Mark Box, Managing Director, Rieke Dispensing, looks at the increasingly important role of dispensers in delivering a packaging solution that is practical, convenient and in keeping with brand image

I Ever more sophisticated product formulations provide new challenges for dispensers.

n the highly competitive

friendly and that its design

personal care market,

complements the overall pack.

packaging is a key

Conversely, an unreliable

factor in helping to

or ineffective dispenser can

establish brand identity,

have a highly negative impact

create on-shelf impact and

on a brand in the eyes of

generate trust and loyalty. At

the consumer. Anyone who

the same time, it has an equally

thinks that all pumps look the

vital practical role to fulfil in

same only has to glance at

terms of providing consumer

the Rieke Dispensing website

convenience. And nowhere

to understand the extensive

are these dual requirements

choice of dispenser shapes that

more evident than in the area

are available. Yet, despite this,

of efficient dispensing. Using a

we very rarely sell a standard

dispenser for a closure system

dispenser; in most cases,

has many benefits. A dispenser

each one is tailored to precise

allows product evacuation to be

product requirements and/

more carefully controlled and

or branding objectives. For

measured, which can be used to

example, in terms of on-shelf

avoid mess or taking too much of

appearance, dispensers can be

an expensive item, for example,

personalized through the use of

or to provide a specified dose.

master batches for the various

Dispensers are convenient and

components, special finishes —

user-friendly. For large-size packs

such as metallizing or soft-touch

designed for multiple users, such

materials — or the printing of

as soaps and shampoos, they

brand names and messages.

offer maximum hygiene. And

This helps them to complement

their reusability makes them

pack designs and contribute to

the perfect solution for refill

the overall effective image of

packs, an increasingly important

the brand on-shelf.

consideration with today’s focus

Dispensers are convenient and user-friendly.

32

consumers never give a dispenser a second thought, this is — paradoxically — the best demonstration of its effectiveness!

Convenience features

on the environmental impact of

include a long reach option

all types of packaging.

to go with large size packs,

If most consumers never

If most

pumps that can be locked in

give a dispenser a second

the down position for efficient

thought, this is — paradoxically

transportation and then

— the best demonstration

relocked in the up position

of its effectiveness! It means

after opening (to avoid a final

that it is reliable and user-

unwanted dose when locking)

An effective dispenser combines brand identity and on-shelf impact with practicality and convenience.

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

Practical Matters Dispenser manufacturers are also now facing more challenges from the characteristics of many of the products to be dispensed. As markets become more competitive and consumers more demanding, so personal care manufacturers are responding with products devised to differentiate their brands from their rivals. This creates products that are more sophisticated and more complicated but, nevertheless, still need to be dispensed easily and accurately. Viscosity is a key feature of many personal care brands.

A pump for a shampoo needs to dispense with minimal effort and return quickly to its start primed position. Highly viscous liquids are not self-levelling and require special systems to ensure total evacuation from their containers.

One example is the wide variety of creams on the market for hands, face and body. Their thickness and viscosity can make the choice of packaging a difficult one. A traditional solution is to pack them in a jar; however, scooping the product out by hand is not very hygienic and it can be difficult to gauge the quantity of what can be an expensive product. Conversely, if using a bottle, too much residual product may be left behind that cannot easily be removed from the container. A pump dispenser can therefore be the ideal solution. Product is carefully metered and measured to a specific dose, which is Rieke Dispensin g’s more hygienic, less messy and provides accurate control. achieves up to 98 Airless HVDS system % product evac Nevertheless, dispensing highly viscous creams can be problematic, even when uation. packaged using a pump dispenser. Interestingly for Rieke, a solution to this difficulty came from our work in the pharmaceutical sector. The Airless HVDS System, which achieves up to 98% product evacuation, was initially developed for pharmaceutical products, such as dermatological emollient creams. However, the dispenser’s ability to handle all types of highly viscous creams, lotions and gels means that it is now being adopted for other applications such as hair care, spa products and cosmetics.

The challenge with high viscosity products is that they are unable to self level. With conventional pump systems, creams and lotions are drawn from the centre of the container, leaving residue clinging to the side. This results in product that cannot be accessed and is therefore wasted — a frustrating and expensive predicament for the end consumer.

To avoid this, the Rieke Airless HVDS Dispenser uses a combination of airless and piston-up technology to push product up from the bottom of the container. This ensures an orderly and complete evacuation of product, delivering a superior performance compared with standard pumps or followerplate-down systems. Importantly, avoiding excessive product waste presents a better value proposition to the consumer and therefore a higher likelihood of a repeat purchase.

and a special suckback

strong springs and wide-bore

system, which pulls product

designs to handle these lotions

back into the nozzle after

effectively. Organic products

dispense, eliminating mess

are becoming increasingly

and waste and ensuring a

popular, which has necessitated

consistently clean and hygienic

the removal of additives and

operation. Tamper-evident

preservatives from product. With

and child-resistant options

this comes the requirements

offer consumer reassurance

for non-metal contact pumps

through enhanced product

to avoid contamination and,

security and the prevention

for oxygen-sensitive products,

of unwanted sampling prior

systems that prevent air entering

to purchase. Selection of the

the container as the product is

correct material with which

evacuated. These are important

to manufacture the pump

considerations to help preserve

a market for smaller ‘travel size’

In both instances, choosing

can also be critical. Our own

and extend shelf-life. In addition,

containers and dispensers. With

the right packaging is as

experiences have included

a shower-proof construction that

such a pace of new product

important as developing the

the development of pumps

prevents water ingress is required

development, production and

appropriate formulation. The

for products as diverse as

for any type of soap, shampoo

packaging efficiencies are an

pump dispenser provides both

industrial hand cleaners and

or conditioner. Another recent

important part of remaining

the practicality and aesthetics

aromatherapy treatments.

development has been the

price competitive. A universal

that are vital elements for any

introduction of an alternative to

closure or large lid adaptor can

successful brand. PHM

Obstacles and Opportunities

traditional aerosol technology

be specified to allow pumps

with foamers that draw product

to be used with a variety of

Market trends are an equally

from a container and mix it with

container sizes and designs. In

important driving force in the

air to create the foam at the

the competitive environment

development of new dispensing

point of dispense.

of personal care, it is essential

systems. The introduction

Air travel regulations,

A dispenser allows careful control and measurement of product.

for manufacturers to maintain

of products such as face

which still prohibit containers

market share for existing brands

scrubs, which can include

exceeding 100 mL from being

and, at the same time, seek to

particulates, has led to the

carried through airport security

develop the next new trend

creation of pumps containing

checkpoints, have opened up

and ‘must have’ product.

SPRING 2010 ISSUE

For more information

Mark Box, Managing Director Rieke Dispensing Scudamore Road Leicester LE3 1UG, UK. Tel. +44 116 233 1100 sales@riekedispensing.co.uk www.riekedispensing.co.uk

33

LAST WORD

Fashion in Focus With 2010 being the 20th anniversary of the in-cosmetics show, what better place to celebrate the success of this industry-leading exhibition than in Paris, the home of the beauty industry. But this year’s event will be about more than just beauty!

A

s Paris is also the

interaction and synergy between

directly inspired by fashion and

fashion capital

participants, along with a better

fragrance trends and a genuine

of the world, this

layout and staging of the feature

global ‘trend book’ made of

year’s event will

itself, will hopefully help visitors to

creams, gels, elixirs and powders.

examine the

understand and acquire a better

relationship between fashion and

vision of future trends in the areas

PHM: Who can we expect to see

beauty during the ever-popular

of fashion and beauty.

participating in the feature from a supplier point of view?

in-focus feature. To explain just how this will be done, we spoke to

PHM: The theme for in-focus this

JS: Many of the industry’s largest

Jacques Sebag from Re-Source!

year is fashion. Can you explain

suppliers and formulation

who is co-ordinating that part of

why this topic has been chosen?

laboratories are involved in

the show.

JS: Fashion was a natural choice for

in-focus this year. Each will

in-focus this year, especially given

be presenting genuinely new

PHM: Can you explain exactly

the fact that the show is being

products or concepts in a creative,

what in-focus is?

held in Paris, the fashion capital

eye-catching, inspirational and

JS: in-focus is the show’s central

of the world! We have a saying

interactive way. Companies

visitor feature. Each year, we take

in France, “se faire belle,” which

signed-up to date include Arch,

the theme of beauty and connect

means to make yourself beautiful;

BASF, Créations Couleurs, Croda,

it with another topical concept

for us, fashion is an inextricable part

Merck, Sinerga, Stéarinerie Dubois

to explore the relationship

of that routine. Together, the two

and Symrise to name a few.

between the two. Essentially, it’s

make up an important part of our

Affix, Laboratoire BF, Labosphère

a laboratory where formulation

identity; this is why, with the show

and Strand Cosmetics will also

chemists, product designers and

being in Paris this year, we chose

be involved, working with the

marketers come to see, touch

fashion as the theme.

participants to create prototype

and smell the future concepts in

products for visitors to sample.

personal care. Using ingredients

PHM: For you, what is the link

as the source of creativity and

between fashion and cosmetics?

capital of the world, in-focus

inspiring experiences, in-focus

JS: Beauty and fashion run parallel,

will look at the science of

acts as a forum where ideas are

alongside each other. Although

beauty through the prism of

exchanged, current perceptions

fashion is probably the more

fashion. Visitors will embark

are challenged and prototypes

‘superficial’ of the two concepts,

on an inspirational journey;

are discussed to stimulate product

once removed, you find that it’s

breakthrough technologies, novel

development.

completely essential. If you look at

formulations and creative ideas

some of the best beauty products,

will be displayed in dedicated

PHM: I understand in-focus

they have such a dramatically

areas, whereas samples of new

2010 will be a slightly different

sensorial effect on the skin that

colours, hairstyles and textiles will

experience from previous

they make you look and feel as

also be available. PHM

years as the show celebrates

good as when you are wearing

its 20th anniversary. Can you

a high fashion item. Conversely,

explain how?

some high fashion items and in

JS: In the past, in-focus always had

particular, certain fabrics, have

a central theme, but the projects

been likened to a second skin. This

were not completely interlinked;

parallel lays bare the structural

each participant did their own

and functional relationship

thing, which was connected

between textiles and cosmetics,

to the main theme. In 2010, we

fashion and beauty.

This April in Paris, the fashion

Jacques Sebag

will take this a step further and actually create a collaborative

PHM: What kind of products can

environment between all of the

we expect to see showcased

participants. There will be groups

during the feature?

of ingredient suppliers working

JS: in-focus will be a festival of

with formulation designers to

ultra-sensorial textures designed as

explain their vision. Greater

creative new fabrics, with colours

34

For more information

in-cosmetics (www.in-cosmetics.com) 13–15 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France.

SPRING 2010 ISSUE