The world of personal care ingredients
PUREHealth Magazine
SPRING EDITION 2011
The Nagoya Protocol
Implications for sourcing natural ingredients
Antiageing
Go natural with Echinacea
Technology Nanoparticle delivery systems
Consumer Trends and New Product Development
at s u ics e t 9 se me MH e s m co nd coin- sta
contents
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SPRING EDITION 2011
CONTENTS ... e u s s i s i h t n I
Guest Editorial
05 Beauty Foods:
Consumer Trends and New Product Development
Chris Lee
Event Preview
12 in-cosmetics: Ritorno a Milano Lucy Gillam
Beauty from Within
18 Beauty and the Yeast Morgane Maillard
Hair Care
22 Conditioning Polymers Courtney S. Fretz
30 12
Regulatory Affairs
26 New Rules on ABS María Julia Oliva
Natural Ingredients
28 Echinacea purpurea: Nature’s Antiageing Multitasker Marielle le Maire
Male Grooming
30 New Hope for the Hirsute Nick Gibbens
Technology 32 I’ve Got You … Under My Skin
Malcolm Connah
Last Word
34 Skin Health and Beautification: Innovative Proprietary Approaches
Olga Ben-Chitrit, Fabien Havas and Liki von Oppen-Bezalel
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18 22
2011 spring
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staff Enhancing beauty from within with collagen peptides
Editorial
Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591
Sales
General Manager/Publisher Miranda Docherty miranda@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 122 Sales Executive Gill Healy gill@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 128 Sales Executive Heba Hassanatou heba@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 127
Art
Circulation
Circulation Manager info@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers. Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details).
Via Media UK Limited Managing Director Simon Jones simon.jones@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131 Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591 Financial Controller Catherine Swainson catherine@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123
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Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers. Reprints of articles are available upon request.
Registered Office:
Beauty PeptanTM collagen peptides provides the amino-acids specific to skin health. It has clinically shown to help maintain youthfull, vibrant skin and fight skin aging process. PeptanTM is flavorless, odorless, colorless and highly soluble, making it easy to use in your nutricosmetics.
Picture: istockphoto
Discover the benefits of PeptanTM collagen peptides from Rousselot, a world leader in manufacturing high quality ingredients for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, food and cosmetic industries.
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Rousselot Email: rhc@rousselot.com www.peptan.com
Via Media UK Ltd 22 Highacre Dorking Surrey RH4 3BF.
Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention. Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. Copyright Š 2011, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 0LP, UK (ISSN: 2046-2735).
spring 2011
guest editorial
Beauty Foods
Beauty foods are the next big thing in the nutraceutical industry … and coming to a supermarket near you.
Consumer Trends and New Product Development
I
nterest in beauty foods
during the next few years.
products. Their hydration and
with a high concentration of
has steadily grown during
Euromonitor International’s
antiageing properties have
antioxidant lycopene in their
the last 5 years, leading
presentations always prove to
been demonstrated by clinical
skin display fewer furrows and
to the arrival of new
be incredibly insightful, and this
and in vitro studies and proven
wrinkles compared with those
products onto the market
one looks set to be no different.
to enhance skin health from
with a low concentration. The
that are complementary to the
Meanwhile, Veronique Fabien-
within. In fact, those recently
production of free radicals
traditional beauty industry. Only
Soulé from Rousselot will turn her
undertaken in France and
is a natural part of cellular
last month, I read a story about
attention to collagen peptides
Japan have shown that women
metabolism — destroying
a restaurant in London that is
in beauty foods. Bioactive
taking Peptan for between 8
bacteria and viruses — but they
offering age-conscious diners
peptides from collagen are
and 12 weeks had improved
can also damage DNA and
a menu of collagen-rich dishes
now starting to appear as new
skin moisture levels, suppleness
proteins in the skin, leading to
to help boost the elasticity and
ingredients in the formulation
and smoothness. The ingredient
premature ageing. Carotenoids
strength of their skin. It certainly
of innovative beauty food
not only reduced the number
such as lycopene can help to
makes sense that other industries
of micro-relief furrows but also
neutralize the free radicals,
are responding to market
prevented the formation of
helping to prevent harmful
demand and adapting their
deep wrinkles.
reactions in the skin. Dr Darvin’s
products accordingly; as we all
It seems the only hurdle that
presentation will look at the latest
know, cosmetics can enhance
the nutraceutical industry
studies on volunteers who have a
your body base but it’s what we
needs to overcome is the
diet rich in carotenoids and the
put into them that helps keep
scepticism from consumers
effects on their skin. His findings
skin looking healthy. More and
about the link between
will provide insightful material
more food and drink products
fortified foods and their
on which the nutraceutical
are being marketed as beauty
health benefits. Research by
industry can base new product
enhancing, and functional foods
Datamonitor found that more
development in the future.
are the next logical step for
than 75% of consumers were not
innovation in the nutraceutical
confident about the validity of
Foods won’t be the only subject
and cosmetics industries.
manufacturers’ claims about
up for debate at Vitafoods Europe.
Vitafoods Europe, which returns
the beauty benefits of products
Other topics include gut health
to the Geneva Palexpo from
such as beverages, dairy
and immunity, food allergy and
10–12 May 2011, will explore this
foods, dietary supplements
intolerance, heart health and
subject in depth during its 3 day
and chocolates. Despite this,
appetite control — something for
we have seen how the link
everyone working in the industry.
from Euromonitor International,
between taking vitamins and
You can see the full programme
Rousselot and Germany’s
health is now widely accepted,
at www.vitaoods.eu.com/
Universitaetsmedizin will share
so there is definitely an exciting
conference. I hope you can join
their knowledge and expertise of
opening for the nutraceutical
me in Geneva and I look forward
this market growth area.
industry and I look forward to
to what’s shaping up to be our
seeing new ingredients being
biggest event to date. PHM
conference. Representatives
Izabela Osowska, from
Chris Lee
Euromonitor International, will
introduced onto the market in
present the agency’s latest
the next few years.
findings on beauty foods,
Dr Maxim E. Darvin, from
exploring why they resonate with
Universitaetsmedizin, will be
consumers, evaluating the most
focusing on carotenoids and the
dynamic new products from
manifestation of skin ageing at
around the globe and reviewing
Vitafoods Europe. He will look
where the market is heading
specifically at how individuals
2011 spring
Although fascinating, Beauty
For more information
Chris Lee is Event Director at Vitafoods Europe and Finished Products Expo 2011. Visit www.vitafoods.eu.com or www.finishedproductsexpo.com for full exhibition details.
5
news X-Rite to Demonstrate New Colour Measurement Methods in-cosmetics attendees can view demonstrations and obtain information on the new offerings from X-Rite at Stand Q01 in the Fiera Milano Rho. Preshow information may be obtained from Andrea Vannacci, Sales Director South Europe (avannacci@ xrite.com), who is scheduled to give a presentation — Advanced Methods to Accurately Measure and Communicate the Colour of Cosmetics — at 3:30 pm on 30 March at the show as part of its Innovation Seminars. Cosmetics manufacturers may be particularly interested in X-Rite’s non-contact technology. X-Rite will show how its technology for measuring colour at a distance more closely represents the way the human eye perceives colour and, ultimately, how the consumer will view the finished product when it is demonstrated by sales associates in stores or used. Tests currently done by a number of cosmetics manufacturers don’t accurately replicate what the eye sees because samples are placed and measured in cuvettes. When you add a transparent barrier between the sample and the instrument, it immediately imparts errors. X-Rite also will be unveiling NetProfiler 3, the latest iteration of the company’s software that provides customers with the ability to test and validate the measurement performance of their spectrophotometers; it is used on a regular basis by many industrial companies worldwide to remotely adjust and certify the performance of their spectrophotometers, ensuring that accurate and reliable colour data is used throughout the supply chain (www.xrite.com).
Custom Surfactants
For more 60 years, Hydrior (Stand V27) has specialized in the production of anionic surfactants and esterification products. Located in Switzerland, the company also manufactures surfactants according to customer requirements. Hydrior’s polyglycerol ester products that, thanks to their marked substantivity, make skin feel fantastic, have achieved official approval from EcoCert. Depending on the type, they have a non-roughening to smoothing effect on the skin and regulate humidity. Because they do not denature any proteins, they do not irritate the skin. For natural cosmetics, they’re ideal ingredients for use as liquid and PEG-free emulsifiers, solubilizers or thickeners (www.hydrior.com).
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Just Natural Beauty Cremer Care (Stand T59) will launch a new product line of naturally derived functional ingredients and solutions for balanced and sustainable personal care products. Depending on their composition, the new CremerCOOR products can be used as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, viscosity enhancers, surfactants, moisturizers or even as antimicrobial agents. Thus, they help to promote the performance, stability and safety of personal care products. Natural ingredients are what today’s self-confident and nature-loving consumers are striving for. Cremer Care’s new CremerCOOR product range is mainly based on vegetable fatty acids that are esterified with glycerin, polyglycerins or other vegetable-based alcohols. “This also enables us to provide organic certification for many of our products,” emphasizes Patrick Knüppel, Cremer Oleo Business Unit Manager. “For formulators, our new product line provides an excellent alternative to synthetic components in beauty products, maintaining unchanged high quality standards.” CremerCOOR will be manufactured at Cremer Care’s associated manufacturing site, Prignitzer Chemie in Wittenberge (Germany), which has already begun to expand its production capacity to meet customer demands. It is currently building a new state-of-the-art multipurpose production facility for fatty acid esters, incorporating the company’s extensive experience in the manufacture of fatty acids, glycerin and medium chain triglycerides (www.cremer-care.de).
Beauty from Echinacea, Superveggies and Grains This year, Symrise (Stand R40) is placing nature at the centre of its activities. At in-cosmetics, the Life Essentials business unit is focusing on an innovative botanical active ingredient with antiageing properties, as well as its new vegetable and grain extracts. These products are Symrise’s response to the growing demand for natural ingredients. SymFinity 1298, a 100% natural active antiageing substance that comes from Echinacea, strengthens skin cells’ resilience to stress, protects it from the environmental damage responsible for wrinkles and, additionally, prevents age spots and an uneven complexion. SymFinity 1298 has multifunctional benefits, including the potent activation of the cell’s life prolonging protein, SIRT-1, effective antiirritant efficacy and excellent antioxidant properties. It has shown convincing results in human ex vivo studies. The company has also harnessed the beneficial properties of seven vegetables — artichoke, asparagus, beet, broccoli, pumpkin, spinach and zucchini — for use in cosmetic products. These Actipone “superveggies” have a proven antioxidative effect. And, Symrise has expanded its range of Extrapone, the successful series of botanical extracts, by adding a new collection of healthy grains. The portfolio now includes traditional “supergrains” such as amaranth, quinoa and khorasan wheat that have long been used for their care-giving properties. In addition to these brand new ingredients, Symrise will attract visitors with other previously launched products, including SymSitive 1609, an active ingredient that soothes sensory skin irritations, SymPeptide 226EL, which strengthens eyelashes and makes them appear longer and fuller, SymHelios 1031, which protects the skin against the long-term effects of UVB exposure and environmental pollutants, SymMollient S and L, highly branched ester emollients with excellent skin feel and proven moisturizing benefits, and Frescolat ML nat., a natural active ingredient that’s alcohol/menthol-free and provides a long-term skin cooling effect (www.symrise.com).
Quality Without Compromise Faravelli Group, a long-established distributor of high quality raw materials for the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and food sectors, is proud to announce its participation at in-cosmetics 2011. Using the slogan, “Fall in love with us,” and with a glamorous and eyecatching booth (P60), Faravelli Group will present its large range of products specifically dedicated to the cosmetic sector, including natural thickeners, preservatives, humectants, minerals and active ingredients (antioxidant, moisturizing, antiageing, soothing, energizing, firming, suncare, hair care, anticellulite, bust-enhancing, hair styling agents, etc.). In addition, an interesting combination of nutraceutical active ingredients will be presented and explained during the show. Faravelli’s stand, located in front of Provital’s booth, a major supplier of natural active ingredients will be shared with two other suppliers, CP Kelco and Gfn Selco. Faravelli Group is an international company, with premises in Milan, Hamburg, Prague and Shanghai (www.faravelli.it).
spring 2011
Skin Care
Beautiful skin is demanding. O Our care pampers it w with luxurious textures.
Luvigel Star The non-ionic rheology modier with high salt compatibility � good sensory properties for elegant skin feel � excellent thickening performance �
BASF SE, 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany www.beautycare.basf.com, Tel: + 800 2273 4444
news Clinical Testing Services AMA Laboratories Inc. (Stand U51), founded in 1984, is a clinical testing laboratory devoted to the evaluation of finished cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients such as sunscreens, wrinkle treatments, moisturizers, hair products, etc. We test these products for efficacy in both in vivo and in vitro environments. We are strategically located just a short drive north of New York City, in a modern facility that occupies approximately 22,000 ft2. AMA Laboratories, Inc. provides claim substantiation for major corporations, regulatory organizations and TV networks. Our forte is the use of novel methodologies, biophysical measurements and instrumental data combined with a unique system of scientific photography (PhotoGrammetrix) to provide you with well-controlled, statistically valid studies to support your products in the market place (www.amalabs.com).
Water Retention and Smoother Skin Lipotec introduces hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with a high water retaining capacity that provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect and immediate wrinkle reduction. On show in Milan (Stand H40), hyadisine is an exopolysaccharide that’s obtained using an optimized bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez (Brittany, France); it’s rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronic acid. The excellent moisturizing and immediate antiwrinkle properties of hyadisine, when tested in vivo, demonstrated the efficacy of this bioactive ingredient by improving skin appearance and reducing lines in only 2 hours. hyadisine is part of Lipotec’s new brand, Biointec, which, based on non-genetically modified organisms and supported by advanced biotechnological technologies, allows for the regular and sustainable production of active ingredients with proven cosmetic efficacy (www.lipotec.com).
New Aqueous Products Earthoil Plantations (Stand M79) will be unveiling its aqueous product range, which includes Earthoil Waters and new Eartharome and Treattarome items, at this year’s in‑cosmetics. A unique range of certified organic products, Earthoil Waters deliver a high concentration of essential oil in water to impart a strong, authentic fragrance to a variety of cosmetic applications. The company will also highlight its ethically sourced rose hip oil, from Southern Africa, which has been shown to offer multiple skincare benefits in rejuvenating fatigued or damaged skin. Created using a novel, proprietary method, Earthoil Waters are unique, organic essential oil products that meet the new cosmos standards for a 100% organic product. They are completely solubilized in pure, natural mountain spring water to deliver an essential oil concentration more potent in aroma than conventional hydrosols. As a result, manufacturers can be confident that their products capture the authentic fragrance profile that consumers crave. By comparison with hydrosols, the greater concentration of oils solubilized in the development of Earthoil Waters ensures increased stability, facilitating subsequent product benefits. This relatively high essential oil concentration can, with certain oils, also enhance its stability by acting as a natural preservative, a clear benefit for producers looking to reduce the use of synthetic preservatives. Plus, whereas Earthoil Waters are themselves organic, the process used in their production can be applied to any essential oil. As the desire for products containing organic, ethically sourced ingredients continues to grow, more and more formulators are welcoming traceable raw materials to help them secure their position in the competitive marketplace. To support product developers in these aims, Earthoil will also be featuring its organically certified rose hip oil from Lesotho. In keeping with the ethical values of the company, the collection of rose hips provides a welcome source of income for many of Lesotho’s poorest villages (www.treatt.com).
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appealing to Your Sense … of Responsibility Beauty, luxury and care: the world of cosmetics is all about positive sensory experiences. But, lasting market success calls for more, because today’s consumers are also aware of the environmental, social and ethical impact of the products they buy. And major retailers expect transparency about their suppliers’ sustainability credentials. Evonik is dedicated to enabling you to meet these demands. Drawing on a tradition of quality and creativity coupled with a deep sense of responsibility, we work with clients to see product development through to completion — from concept to realization and documentation. And we’re putting our sense of responsibility into action. With forward-looking concepts, such as enzymatic and polyglyceryl esterification and biotech methods, we significantly reduce energy consumption, cut down emissions and wastewater, and ensure the responsible use of natural feedstocks with sophisticated documentation. The result: our clients can make verifiable claims and appeal to consumers’ personal care needs as well as their sense of environmental responsibility (www.evonik.com).
Beauty from Northern Waters Aqua Bio Technology (Stand M28) will launch a novel marine ingredient, Aquabeautine XL, at incosmetics. This patented product is a protein solution derived from the hatching fluid of salmon roe or “red caviar.” It contains a unique protease, zonase, which, unlike similar enzymes, is highly stable (non-selfdegrading) and gently removes dead skin cells without affecting living cells. As such, Aquabeautine XL is a biospecific exfoliant proven to render comparable results with common hydroxyl acids without skin irritation. Aquabeautine XL also delivers moisturizing and antiageing effects. Results are supported by both in vitro and in vivo data. Designed by nature, Aquabeautine XL is 100% natural and sustainable. Colourless, odourless and active in a broad pH range, it is easy to formulate and is suitable for various cosmetics applications, even for the most sensitive skins. The effects of Aquabeautine XL on human skin were discovered by coincidence. Salmon hatchery workers reported that their hands became soft and smooth after sorting salmon eggs despite the prolonged exposure to cold water. This piqued the interest of scientists at the University of Bergen and led to the discovery of the zonase enzyme, which helps the larva to get out of its eggshell by digesting this tough, fibrous protein structure, but without harming the delicate baby fish. In humans, zonase attacks specific cell binding sites in the stratum corneum, which is similar to its natural substrate, leaving the living skin cells untouched (www.aquabiotechnology.com).
spring 2011
Skin Hydration Instrument from Delfin Delfin Technologies (Stand S92) will launch the MoistureMeterSC Compact, a novel instrument for measuring skin hydration values, at in-cosmetics. The measurement of skin surface hydration at the stratum corneum level is one of the most used measurements in the personal care industry, especially for claims substantiation work. Delfin’s new MoistureMeterSC Compact combines Delfin’s proven and protected measurement technology with ease-of-use and its well established wireless technology. With this new product, Delfin is establishing a new level of reliability and convenience for skin hydration measurements. The MoistureMeterSC Compact’s built in pressure sensor and the use of the stratum corneum’s dry layer thickness during the measurement add to the accuracy and sensitivity of the instrument, which also features wireless data collection from the unit to Delfin’s existing data collection program. This new addition to Delfin’s product portfolio brings formulators and researchers a novel scientific tool for practical and reliable skin surface hydration measurements. Delfin Technologies is a leading provider of scientifically validated portable skin research instruments. Other Delfin products include the VapoMeter for TEWL measurements, the MoistureMeterD for tissue water change measurements in the deeper layers of the skin and subcutis, the SkinGlossMeter for skin gloss measurements and the SebumScale for skin sebum excretion measurements. Delfin has customers in more than 30 countries, ranging from universities and hospitals to personal care, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical companies and testing laboratories (www.delfintech.com).
Clariant Launches New Youth Concepts Clariant’s new “youth concept” offers sophisticated answers to the most common beauty and lifestyle issues affecting this market. It enables solutions to acne, oily skin, hydration, dandruff and sun protection to be integrated into skin and hair care formulations, whereas formulators can give decorative cosmetics a level of shine and brightness to reflect the joie de vivre of young people. The concept covers a broad range of ingredients suited to the sensitivity of young skin, including those with natural origins, for optimal mildness and skin-friendliness. As a result, the tactile feel, appearance and effectiveness of skin and hair products, as well as decorative cosmetics, can be maximized to leave a refreshed sensation on skin and hair, and a naturally appealing radiance. Highlights from the latest product innovations at Clariant’s in-cosmetics 2011 booth (N40) include vegetable-based products, shine-enhancing emulsifiers, rheology modifiers that provide superb skin feel and sulfate-free rinse-off agents. They address young people’s concerns about the use of “healthier” products with fewer or no preservatives, more natural ingredients and less environmental impact. “During their teenage and young adult years, both boys and girls have very specific requirements for their hair and skin,” comments Anne Timm, Head of Sales and Application, Personal Care EMEA at Clariant. “Our solutions create straightforward possibilities to develop formulations that tackle today’s issues and lay a foundation for healthier skin and hair in the future.” Visit www.clariant.com for more information.
The innovision.
Raw materials, ideas, laboratory formulations and claims.
InCosmetics - Milan - March, 29/31. Visit us at Stand
E40 to find new concepts and creative projects.
2011 springVia M. F. Quintiliano, 30 - 20138 MILANO (ITALY) - www.prodottigianni.com
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news Novel Extracts and Applications At in-cosmetics this year, Indena (Stand Q39) is launching Xilogel, a well-characterized tamarind polysaccharide with a molecular weight of 650,000 Da. With a structure that’s similar to hyaluronic acid and the capacity to complex water, it is the ideal candidate for deep hydration products. A clinical assessment and trial results confirming the ingredient’s strong hydrating and antiageing properties will be presented at the show (30 March, 12:00–12:30 pm, innovation seminar 2). Also available is Omegablue, a bilberry oil obtained by clean CO2 extraction from bilberry seeds. The total fatty acid content is more than 80% and offers a uniquely balanced ratio of polyunsaturated omega-6/omega-3 fatty acids. The major components are linoleic and alpha linolenic acid. Linoleic acid is involved in cutaneous hydration, exerting a plastic-structural role for the skin, whereas alpha linolenic acid has major anti-inflammatory properties. The naturalness of Omegablue, its unique fatty acid composition, its restructuring skin and hair functions and its pleasant sensorial feel qualify it as an innovative cosmetic active ingredient for skin and hair care. In addition, Indena is keen to confirm the novel application of zanthalene, a CO2 extract from the Chinese spice, Sichuan pepper. Since its launch last year, the immediate lifting effect of zanthalene has been of interest to formulators. The application has now been presented in Asia and USA and a peerreviewed journal publication is currently available (www.indena.it).
NaTrue Certification for Dusoran and Cholesterol NF Dishman Netherlands has obtained the NaTrue label for natural-like ingredients for its cosmetic raw material products, Dusoran and Cholesterol NF. A company spokesperson said: “We are one of the first companies in Europe to obtain NATRUE certification for these cosmetic raw materials, which was obtained after having been audited at our production site in Veenendaal (the Netherlands).” NaTrue is an International Association of Natural and Organic Cosmetic manufacturers who aim to safeguard the highest possible standards for natural cosmetics and their ingredients in Europe, in the United States and, in the longerterm, also in Asia (www.natrue.org). Cholesterol NF: Cholesterol exists naturally in the human skin. It offers natural protection against external factors such as dehydration and it regulates the transdermal transport of molecules. The use of cholesterol enhances the skin’s natural barrier function; it both moisturizes and contributes to the health of the skin. Crèmes and lotions benefit from a shiny surface as cholesterol forms liquid crystals during formulation. As such, Cholesterol NF offers moisturizing, emulsification and emollient properties. Dusoran is ideal for hair colourants, conditioners, treatments (relaxing and perming) and two-in-one combination products, etc. Its key product benefits for haircare are volume, gloss, prevention (premature oily hair), protection (head irritation) and excellent sensory properties. In skincare applications, Dusoran can be used in both facial and body care products, offering the following benefits: moisture control, controlled transdermal transport, protection, convenience and improved sensory characteristics (www.dishman-netherlands.com).
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Naturally Made for Immediate Beauty At this year’s in-cosmetics, Frutarom (Stand R28) will present its red microalgae cosmetic ingredient, Alguard. Produced using a truly ‘green’ production process, Alguard is backed by clinical data and offers an immediate skin appearance effect just one hour after its first application. The secret of Alguard stems from the oceans and how red microalgae have adapted to the extreme conditions of the ocean tidal zone. A negatively charged polysaccharide released to the algae’s surroundings forms a bioactive protective layer, shielding the algae from harsh elements. When applied to the skin, Alguard forms an ‘active shield’ and acts as a triple-guard solution for a variety of cosmetic applications: first as an ‘insult guard,’ directly protecting the skin from irritants and oxidative damage; second as a ‘sun guard’ to protect the skin’s immune cells from UVB radiation; and third, as a ‘microguard,’ countering bacterial adhesion. A study done at the Israeli Skin Research Institute shows that Alguard can also visibly enhance skin appearance directly after use. In this study, 10 women applied a small amount of Alguard to one half of their faces and a control cream to the other half. They were then monitored for one hour in a controlled environment. A clear reduction in fine line length and depth, and a 24% average reduction in skin roughness were observed on the Alguard-treated areas. Alguard is physically purified from porphyridium sp. microalgae cultivated in artificial seawater while utilizing only natural sunlight, water and nutrients. Its production is green, natural and solventfree. The clear hydrogel appearance and stability over a wide range of temperature and pH values make Alguard suitable for almost any formulation and offer advantages compared with algal extracts and biomass concentrates (www.frutarom.com).
Performance Products from Huntsman The Performance Products division of Huntsman Corporation has announced that its personal care team will exhibit at in-cosmetics. A key player in the beauty and personal care market, Huntsman develops specialty chemicals that the world’s biggest cosmetic companies can rely on to create well-known, top selling beauty and well-being products. Masters in molecular science, Huntsman produces a wide range of raw materials for the cosmetics, beauty and personal care markets, including foam boosters and pearlizing additives for use in bath foams and cleansing products, solvent-free carbonates for use in skin and suncare systems, emulsifiers to stabilize high water content lotions, ointments and creams, polymeric additives and silicone-free agents for use in detangling, protecting and nourishing hair conditioners, and primary anionic surfactants and specialty surfactant blends for use in mild and salon formula shampoos. Helping formulators to meet the very latest market trends and drive more value from their brands, ingredients from Huntsman are renowned for the special effects they can bring to everyday essentials such as shampoos, conditioners, toothpastes, shower gels, face creams, body lotions and deodorants. To find out more about Huntsman’s full range of performance products, visit Stand M16 (www.huntsman.com).
spring 2011
Managing Epidermal Melanin Cross-Talk Pigmentation disorders are a major concern for many populations (Asian, African, Latin-American). Some benign pigmentation disorders are stimulated by ageing (freckles, lentigines and melasma) and/or stress (inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Sederma is proud to offer a new solution for people wishing to reduce pigmentation irregularities or lighten their skin complexion. Based on a botanical, Wonderlight acts on both melanocytes and their associated keratinocytes to help lessen pigmentation disorders. It reduces epidermal melanin cross-talk and blocks the signalling pathways involved in melanin synthesis. Wonderlight exhibits a stronger effect on hyperpigmented areas and equalizes skin pigmentation to make them less visible. The ability of Wonderlight to inhibit the UV-induced secretion of GM-CSF (a melanocyte stimulator) has been demonstrated in vitro. The concept was validated on living human skin cultures (phototype III) in which the UVAB-induced twofold increase in the number of melanocytes was totally inhibited in the presence of Wonderlight. Two clinical trials conducted on Asian volunteers with classical pigment disorders (lentigines, ephelides, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) confirmed the melanogenesis reducing activity of Wonderlight on these lesions (www.sederma.fr).
Formulation-Enhancing Additives
The Dow Chemical Company, a leading supplier of innovative specialty additives and technologies for the personal care and cosmetics industries, will exhibit at in-cosmetics. At Stand C40, Dow will feature a broad range of products from the Dow Personal Care, Dow Microbial Control and ANGUS Chemical Company business portfolios. Tradeshow visitors will learn how Dow businesses provide distinct advantages to numerous segments within the industry. From eye products and colour cosmetics to conditioners, shampoos and styling products, as well as skincare, bath, shower and sun protection products, Dow has technologies that contribute to and enhance the performance of many formulations. At this year’s event, Dow Personal Care will highlight a novel conditioning technology for hair care applications. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers offer exceptional benefits without the use of silicone in shampoos. The performance benefits offered by EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers also represent a benefit to formulators looking to address the issue of build-up or foam stability as they develop new formulations. Dow Microbial Control will promote its diverse portfolio of preservatives made up of established and approved solutions. Dow Microbial Control is a preservation leader with options available for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care formulations, including a wide range of paraben-free and aldehyde-free products. With its globally approved broad-spectrum NEOLONE and KATHON preservatives, Dow Microbial Control is uniquely positioned to offer high performing, sustainable actives and formulations designed for personal care and cosmetic applications. ANGUS Chemical Company has developed application testing that clearly demonstrates the exceptional performance benefits of AMP-ULTRA PC amino alcohol in a range of hair styling formulations. Today’s consumers are on the go and expect their hair products to keep up with their lifestyle. ANGUS will highlight personal care neutralizers available to maximize the performance of hair styling products (www.dow.com).
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event preview
Milan prepares to welcome the world’s cosmetic industry in March 2011
T
he Italian cosmetics
in-cosmetics Exhibition
workshops and marketing
and maintenance of Product
and toiletries
Director, Lucy Gillam,
trends presentations, whilst
Information Files (PIF) and
industry is booming.
commented: “Last year’s show
the ever-popular in-focus and
Cosmetic Product Safety
Worth a reported
was the biggest event ever,
the Innovation Zone will once
Reports (CPSRs). China is also
€9.1 billion, it is the
so we certainly set the bar
again be key features on the
a key issue on the regulatory
third biggest in Europe, behind
very high, but we’re extremely
exhibition floor.
agenda of cosmetics
only France (€12.8 billion) and
confident that we will match
Germany (€10.5 billion). And
if not exceed expectations for
with Milan’s reputation as the
companies. Last summer, the SFDA published several
the Milan show. Our exhibitors
More Than an Exhibition
business fashion capital of the
are, as always, of the highest
A programme of Regulatory
in a move to reorganize
continent, it’s not surprising that
quality and the educational
Seminars will provide delegates
the supervision of cosmetic
after 7 years of being away, the
programme is certainly
with thoughtful, educational
products in the country. Dr
city has been chosen to host
shaping up well. We have a
insights into the movement
Alain Khaiat, President of
the next edition of in-cosmetics,
really compelling line up of
of legislation, including the
Seers Consulting and Vice-
the leading personal care
speakers already confirmed to
current impact of future
President of the ASEAN
ingredients exhibition.
present on some of the hottest
regulatory amendments
Cosmetic Association, and a
Promising to be as exciting as
topics, which will no doubt
in Europe and China. Dr
panel of key industry experts,
last year’s record-breaking event
provoke some lively debate
Annelie Struessman, Technical
will aim to shed some light on
in Paris, the 2011 show will take
amongst visitors.” Dubbed a
Director of CONUSBAT, and
this new legislative framework
place in March (29–31) at the
three-day ‘training centre’
experts from Beiersdorf and
during the “Chinese Cosmetic
Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre
for the industry, the show’s
Henkel will lead the first
Regulations” seminar on 29
in the heart of the city. Already
educational programme
session — Safety Assessment
March from 14:30 to18:00.
the largest ever show in terms
will offer a wide range of
for Cosmetics in Europe —
of floor space, the exhibition
presentations, workshops
taking place on 29 March from
Scientific Seminars at this
will play host to more than 500
and features to enhance
09:30 to 13:30. The seminar
year’s show, delving into
world-class suppliers of new and
visitors’ commercial, scientific
will outline the challenges
two of the industry’s most
innovative cosmetic ingredients
and technical knowledge.
and legal requirements
topical issues: “Skin Ageing:
and services, as well as leading
Regulatory, scientific and
for safety assessment and
From Functional Impairment
testing laboratories, software
innovation seminars will take
provide practical guidelines
to Cosmetic Solutions” and
providers, industry associations
place alongside formulation
for the design, preparation
“Nanotechnologies and
and publishing houses. Highlighting the importance of the event, all stand space for 2011 was booked on site at last year’s event; however, the organizers have expanded the area to meet the demands of eager exhibitors, signalling a recovered and revived outlook for the cosmetics industry following last year’s recession. Industry heavyweights such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia will naturally have a presence alongside smaller firsttime exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the home soil location.
12
All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event; we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure that this is a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.
guidelines and measures
There will be a series of
Biotechnologies in Cosmetics.” Organized by CEC Editore and HPC Magazine, respectively, the seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in the above areas. On 30 March at 09:30 –13:30, the skin ageing seminar will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin ageing. The most recent methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of antiageing treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes. Other areas to be covered
spring 2011
World Class Exhibitors
Among the 500+ exhibitors set to showcase their latest innovations and scientific developments to the visitors is Arch Personal Care Products (Stand F50). The company will be highlighting its patent-pending Lotus Zymbiozome Fermentum (Assigned INCI Name: Water [and] Lotus japonicus Symbiosome Extract), an innovative ingredient that, when formulated into skincare products, demonstrates unique effects in controlling skin colour and tone. In addition, the company will be showcasing NAB Rhodiola Extract (Assigned INCI Name: Water [and] Pentylene Glycol and Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract), an exciting, innovative new ingredient for skincare products offering ‘adaptogenic thermal stress protection.’ Rhodiola Rosea is a robust plant native to the arctic regions of Tibet and Eastern Siberia. The plant contains protective properties, giving it the ability to survive, adapt and even thrive in such conditions. NAB Rhodiola Extract assists the skin in adapting and reducing the stress incurred when it is exposed to varying temperature fluctuations. Also showcasing a number of brand new product launches will be BASF (Stand L40). The company’s product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colourants, stabilizers and surfactants. At in-cosmetics 2011, BASF will be presenting Tinosorb S Aqua, a new UV filter for the water phase, with the same high-tech broad-spectrum technology as Tinosorb S. In addition, the company will be highlighting its MultiReflections Soft Sparkle, pigments, which provide elegant colour travel and sophisticated soft sparkle effects. Burgundy Botanical Extracts (Stand F74) will showcase Botany Care. The range offers the high quality botanical extract, Botany, and purified extracts (BotanySelect): Aloe Vera, Centella, Hibiscus, Licorice, Harpagophytum p., Chamomilla, enriched organic acids from flowers or fruits, Nettle and Echinacea with studies of efficiency. All the ingredients are supported by accurate scientific research and documentation, and are designed to bring visible benefits. On Stand L30, Cognis will be highlighting its Lamesoft Care products. Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant-based skin and hair care applications. Its micronized lipid system offers excellent skin and hair conditioning properties. Particularly strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. Lamesoft Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleized appearance is desired. Owing to its ether-based lipids, Lamesoft Care can be used in a wide pH range (4–11) and, therefore, in all kinds of body rinse off applications. With its Dermosoft range, Dr Straetmans (Stand L79) is a pioneer in using multifunctional additives with high performance antimicrobial properties to formulate mild and safe cosmetics. With decades of experience in the preservation of all kinds of products, a tailor made solution is available for every product concept. Dr Straetmans accompanies customers at each stage of product development, from concept through evaluation to finished product. Challenge tests are offered to ensure the success of formulation projects with customers. The company’s Dermofeel range will also be on show on the stand.
™
A product line of Frutarom Health ®
®
®
Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. – Tel. +41 44 782 64 64 – Email: switzerland@frutarom.com Frutarom Belgium NV – Tel. +32 52 319 534 – Email: belgium@frutarom.com
2011 spring
Frutarom Germany GmbH – Tel. +49 221 454 6230 – Email: germany@frutarom.com Frutarom Ltd. Israel – Tel. +972 4 846 2462 – Email: FandF@il.frutarom.com
Frutarom USA Incorporated – Tel. +1 201 861 9500 – Email: info@us.frutarom.com
13
event preview Evonik (Stand M40) will be highlighting its comprehensive range of products, which includes conditioners and thickeners for hair care products, emulsifiers for creams and lotions, secondary surfactants, emollients and active ingredients. Amongst those on show will be the SK-influx range of skin identical lipid concentrates and Skinmimics, a unique blend of new long chain ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines, which are ideal for mature skin as they provide protection, regeneration and prevention. Fenchem Biotek (Stand A60) is a science-based company that specializes in developing and manufacturing a wide range of active ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products. The company has recently launched a series of innovative products, including HyaMax Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocovet Tocopherols, CellMotive Coenzyme Q10 and a Vitamin C series. Fenchem has also invested in botanical extracts, such as G-Tea Green tea Extract, Grapurit Grape Seed Extract, Ginktone and Ginkgo Biloba Extract. Induchem AG’s (Stand E56) business is based on carrier systems and active ingredients. Its product portfolio consists mainly of exfoliants, suncare products and additives. Amongst the ranges on show will be Uniprotect PT-3, a bioactive complex for the protection of skin proteins, Unirepair T-43, a bioactive complex to counteract environmental skin damage and Unisooth EG-28, a synergistic complex to inhibit skin irritation. KCI (Stand P34) specializes in raw materials for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, sunscreen cream, face moisturizer and nail polish. At in-cosmetics 2011, the company will be highlighting its Cationic Surfactants, Amine Amide series, Polyquat and Guarquat series and its highly qualified resin for nail lacquer. Lubrizol (Stand K40), with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, is a leading manufacturer of advanced specialty chemicals for personal care products. in-cosmetics 2011 will see the company highlight its Carbopol range of acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high-quality derivatives, lanoline and lanoline derivatives, formulation additives such as non-ionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters. Zahra Rosewater Company (Stand C78) specializes in the production of 100% pure and hydrodistilled essential oils and hydrolytes that are widely used for the manufacture of cosmetics, fragrances and pharmaceuticals. The company is a leading grower, distiller and exporter of organic Damask roses, focusing mainly on the production of high-quality rose products that bear the British Soil Association organic seal of approval. At in-cosmetics, the company will be showcasing its Organic Rosewater and Organic Rose Oil.
14
include optimal dermal delivery
Worldwide Safety Department
for antiageing actives and
at L’Oréal, Dr Joachim Kreysa,
the latest innovation in actives
Unit Head of ECVAM (European
and formulation. Among those
Centre for the Validation
presenting will be Luigi Rigano
of Alternative Methods)
from Studio Rigano, Anthony
European Commission, DG
Rawlings from AVR Consulting,
Joint Research Centre, Dr Steffi
Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the
Friedrichs, Director General at
San Gallicano Dermatological
the Nanotechnology Industries
Institute in Italy, Prof. Dr Johann
Association, Dr Florian Schellauf,
Wiechers from JW Solutions
Issue Manager Technical and
and Stefano Manfredini from
Regulatory Affairs for COLIPA
the Dipartimento di Scienze
and Dr Fred Zuelli Researcher at
Farmaceutiche at the University
Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
of Ferrara, Italy. Also on 30 March, from
The Formulation Workshops will provide lively, interactive
14:00 –18:00, “Nanotechnologies
and controversial insights into
and Biotechnologies in
the challenges and issues that
Cosmetics” will delve into
affect cosmetic formulators.
the practical applications
Prof. Dr Johann Wiechers from
and opportunities, as well
JW Solutions will present “From
as the safety, of cosmetic
Active Ingredient to Active
nanoformulations. Consumer
Formulation in 5 Simple Steps”
perception and industry
on 29 March (14:00–18:00).
response to the techniques
Delegates attending the
will be examined, along with
workshop will be given guidance
the regulatory framework in
on how to select the best actives
Europe. Finally, the seminar
for optimum skin delivery,
will take a look at whether
identify the size of the delivery
biotechnology represents an
gap from the required minimum
alternative to animal model
effective concentration and
testing. Experts confirmed to
select the most appropriate skin
present include Dr Gerhard J.
delivery system. Attendees will
Nohynek, Scientific Head of the
also learn how to design the
spring 2011
■ SElEniuM YEAST For nuTricoSMETic APPlicATionS
Beauty from Within ■ Yeast based ingredient - Natural origin ■ Highly Bioavailable and Safe Selenium ■ Beauty claims approved by EFSA Maintenance of normal HAIR Maintenance of normal NAILS Protection from oxidative damage
European Sales Office l +45 45 95 08 50 North American Sales Office l +1 514 381 5631 www.lallemandhi.com
event preview right formulation to deliver those
information and knowledge
actives and perform a clinical
with a highly captive audience.
trial to assess the product’s
Visitors can choose from 44
efficacy. Judi Beerling from
sessions covering a wide
Organic Monitor will then look at
variety of topics, including
“Emulsifiers and Surfactants: The
the latest developments
Natural Options” on 31 March
in antiageing treatments,
(09:30–13:00). The new workshop
nature-based emulsifiers and
will act as a practical guide for
ethically sourced ingredients.
companies looking to formulate
A new online community
natural and organic personal
tool — CONNECT — will also
care products with alternatives
be introduced for the Milan
to synthetic emulsifiers and
show. It provides exhibitors and
surfactants. With a growing
preregistered visitors with a
number of companies trying to avoid SLS/SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural and organic alternatives. However, what options are available? What are the associated technical and formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective and what are the related safety issues? The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier, Beraca, attracts more than two thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing,
in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers, enabling visitors to discover new, innovative products and services whilst boosting their business, scientific and technical knowledge.
diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated e-mail system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show. Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director, concluded: “There’s certainly a real buzz surrounding the 2011 event. All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event, so we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure this is, once again, a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.” in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers, enabling visitors
formulation, industrial processes
visitors to quickly identify
International will reveal the
to discover new, innovative
and packaging. Showcasing
the very latest launches and
latest ingredients and beauty
products and services whilst
a range of innovative
provide ideas for their next NPD
trends whilst the founders of
boosting their business, scientific
ecodesigned product
or marketing campaign.
niche brands, Bulldog and
and technical knowledge.
Davina Peace, will share
Attendees will benefit from all
prototypes, the feature will seek
A wealth of facts and figures,
to define the core principles of
case studies and advice will
their secrets for success in live
the major players being under
sustainable development in the
be presented at the highly
interviews. How cosmetics
one roof and meeting with
beauty industry.
popular Marketing Trends
companies can draw inspiration
experts whilst discussing the
Presentations at the show this
from other industries such as
next big trends in the growing
Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be
year. Conducted by renowned
professional hair care and
personal care market. PHM
full to bursting with innovation
international market research
cosmetic surgery, as well as
and inspiration, with the key
companies, brands and
changes in online and offline
theme in the end-product
consultancies, the sessions
shopping behaviour, will also be
section being antiageing.
are aimed at sparking off new
among the subjects discussed.
At in-cosmetics 2011, visitors
marketing ideas for companies
will be able to discover the
keen to set themselves
an opportunity for suppliers
latest finished products on the
apart from the competition.
to highlight the very latest
market from Europe, Asia, USA
Sustainability, green chemistry
ingredients and formulation
and Latin America, sourced
and ethical sourcing will feature
techniques they are currently
by Mintel’s team of beauty
prominently in the programme,
pioneering. Traditionally
trend spotters. In addition, the
with two roundtables and a
extremely popular with visitors,
feature will also house some of
presentation from Organic
the seminars last 30 minutes
the latest ingredient launches
Monitor already confirmed.
and provide a platform for
from exhibitors, enabling
Kline and Euromonitor
companies to share their
As ever, this year’s Innovation
16
Innovation Seminars provide
For more information
For further details about in-cosmetics, visit www.in-cosmetics.com. To get the latest news on personal care ingredients, follow in-cosmetics on Twitter at www.twitter.com/ incosmetics or to join the debate with fellow industry experts, go to www.in-cosmetics.com/linkedin. For all travel information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/travel.
spring 2011
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31
PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose Charges skin stem cell resistance Alpine roses are typical Swiss flowers which grow at altitudes of up to 3200 m. In these distinct environments, they must adapt to extreme conditions such as the cold, UV and dryness. PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose – based on alpine rose stem cells – has captured these characteristics. • Increases skin stem cell vitality • Boosts epidermal regeneration • Improves skin barrier function
PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose has been carefully developed to protect skin stem cells against environmental stress factors and to improve their functions. As a consequence, it ensures improved skin condition.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
beauty from within
Yeast-based minerals and vitamins for nutricosmetics.
and the Yeast
W
ithout
of food supplements promoting
immune defence enhancement
alopecia and thin hair have been
knowing it,
skin (antioxidant, antiageing, sun
and viral disease protection.
observed, and the administration
yeast has
protection), nail or hair ‘beauty
Most recently, selenium, which
of selenium was able to remediate
been part of
from within’ in a natural way.
already bears an antioxidant
these symptoms.
our diet since
Article 13.1 health claim, has
A recent publication reported
been granted additional ‘beauty
that selenoproteins are involved
claims’ concerning hair and nails
in keratinocyte function and
as the living organism responsible
Selenium Yeast: A Key Candidate for Beauty Supplements
(Contributes to the Maintenance
cutaneous development, and
for fermentation, for making holes
Selenium is an essential trace
of Normal Hair and Contributes to
that the absence of these
in bread and for transforming
element. It is incorporated in
the Maintenance of Normal Nails).1
selenoproteins leads to severe
sugar into alcohol. Nowadays, the
certain proteins in the form of
Selenium represents an important
abnormalities in skin and hair.2
nutritional benefits of yeast are
selenoamino acids, most of
ingredient for nutricosmetic
Trace element supplementation
well recognized: vegans rely on
which are involved in essential
applications (antiageing, anti-UV,
using copper, zinc and selenium
yeast as a source of protein and
(antioxidant) functions. Selenium
hair and nail health). Selenium’s
also showed a beneficial effect
essential nutrients, and brewer’s
is important for the function
hair and nail benefits are based
on wound healing, along with
yeast is well-known for its hair
of many organs and dietary
on the observation that selenium
a decrease in skin protein
health and beauty benefits. This is
selenium intake has many health
deficiency results in impaired
catabolism. Moreover, selenium is
essentially linked to the fact that
benefits, such as cardiovascular
nail and hair health. In patients
known to protect the skin against
brewer’s yeast (Saccharomyces
health prevention, cancer risk
receiving total parenteral nutrition
UV radiation. A human study
cerevisiae) is an important source
reduction, cognitive function
lacking selenium, troubles such as
has shown the sun-protection
of the B complex vitamins that
support, fertility enhancement,
white nail beds, pseudoalbinism,
potential of an antioxidant
the early days of civilization; but, it took some time to identify yeast
are necessary for hair growth and maintaining healthy hair. Today, thanks to the development of yeast-based minerals such as selenium and zinc, and vitamins, the emerging nutricosmetics
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
natural image of yeast. Backed by recent Article 13.1 beauty-related
Vitamin B8 (biotin)
Food Product
Content
Food Product
Content
Food Product
Content
Baker’s yeast Brewer’s yeast Liver
5.5 mg/100 g 4.0 mg/100 g 3–5 mg/100 g
38 mg/100 g 37 mg/100 g 17 mg/100 g
Baker’s yeast Brewer’s yeast Liver Oatmeal
0.4 mg/100 g 0.09 mg/100 g 0.05 mg/100 g 0.02 mg/100 g
Raw mushrooms Broccoli and avocado
0.5 mg/100 g 0.2 mg/100 g
Brewer’s yeast Baker’s yeast Peanuts (grilled and salted)/peanut butter Liver
Mushrooms and brown rice
0.01 mg/100 g
market can capitalize on the health-promoting power and
Vitamin B3 (niacin)
12–20 mg/100 g
health claims, these ingredients can augment the development
18
Table I: Main dietary sources of vitamin B2, B3 and B8 and average content.
spring 2011
of the clinical manifestations of
immunosuppressive cytokines
Zinc: Essential for Skin, Hair and Nail Development
authors found that the supplement
and enhancement of cellular and
Zinc is another ubiquitous and
or nail dystrophy have also been
significantly increased skin
humoral immunity).4
essential mineral with antioxidant
reported as symptoms of zinc
properties. It is essential for
deficiency. Zinc supplementation
complex containing yeast in
its role in immune defence
the form of selenoamino acids
(prevention of the production of
(selenium yeast Lalmin Se).3 The
tolerance to UV light in volunteers
When compared with mineral
severe zinc deficiency in humans is akrodermatitis. Patchy hair loss
forms (selenite, selenate),
many functions, including
has shown to be beneficial in
22% on untanned skin), reducing
selenium yeast offers the most
protein synthesis. Zinc has been
treating zinc-deficient leg ulcer
the risks of sunburn (Figure
bioavailable source of selenium
described as being essential
patients. Zinc supplementation is
1). They also reported that, in
for dietary supplementation. In
for immune defence and in
also considered to help heal bed
most volunteers, skin erythema
2008, an EFSA Scientific Panel
wound healing. Zinc is involved
sores, cold sores, surgical incisions,
(redness) was visibly reduced after
recognized that yeast with high
in collagen and keratin synthesis,
burns and a variety of other skin
the supplementation. Melanin
levels of organically bound
hence its importance in skin,
irritations. Zinc’s potential in skin,
production and skin colouration
selenium (amino acid-based
hair and nail development and
hair and nail health has prompted
were also enhanced as a result of
selenium) was up to twice as
maintenance. Zinc deficiency
EFSA to grant the mineral Article
the antioxidant effects. In parallel,
bioavailable than inorganic
has been associated with
13.1 health claims related to the
the authors showed a significant
forms.5 Selenium yeast —
delayed wound healing and
“maintenance of normal hair,
reduction of UV-induced oxidative
produced by growing yeast in the
various epithelial lesions. One
normal skin and normal nails.”6
stress in skin and reduced skin
presence of controlled amounts
genotoxicity, which were qualified
of mineral selenium under specific
by the authors as an “indicator
conditions — incorporates
of a potential reduction of the
the mineral into amino acids
most deleterious effects of solar
(selenomethionine) in the same
exposure, such as skin cancers
way that plants do. Combining
and ageing.” In a scientific review
recognized antioxidant properties
regarding the role of selenium
and skin benefits with optimal
in UV protection, McKenzie
bioavailability, selenium yeast —
suggests that selenium protects
which is rich in organically bound
the skin against UVB-induced
selenium — represents a potent
skin damage and cancers by
ingredient for nutricosmetics
several mechanisms that involve
for hair and nail health, sun
its antioxidant effect (decrease
protection and/or antiageing
oxidative DNA damage) and
indications.
2011 spring
Minimal Erythema Dose for nontanned skin (SED)
(a Minimal Erythema Dose of
+ 22%
5 4
P= 0.01
P= 0.005
3 2 1 0
Before antioxidant + 4 weeks antioxidant + 7 weeks antioxidant treatment treatment treatment Figure 1: Effect of antioxidant treatment containing Lalmin Se on skin tolerance to UV light as indicated by the Minimal Erythema Dose.3
19
beauty from within
70 60 50
References
Zn Zn gluconate
40
Zn Z n gluconate
Relative bioavailability (%)
80
30 20 10 0 -10
24 hours after Zn supplement
48 48 hours hours after Zn supplement Figure 2: Effect of supplemental zinc (zinc yeast versus gluconate) on relative bioavailability in healthy volunteers.7 When it comes to zinc
to loss of hair (including eyebrows
supplementation, yeast also
and lashes); these symptoms can
represents an ideal biocarrier:
be reversed by 1–2 months of biotin
zinc yeast offers optimal
treatment.12 Yeast represents a
bioavailability of the essential
major reservoir of B vitamins when
mineral, combined with all the
compared with other dietary
essential nutrients naturally
sources. For example, biotin is
present in yeast. Bioavailability
present in a wide range of food
studies have shown that a zinc
sources; however, only yeast and
yeast supplement (Lalmin Zn)
royal jelly are particularly rich
had a higher bioavailability than
sources. Table I lists some major
equivalent doses of gluconate zinc.
dietary sources of vitamins B2, B3
In a comparative clinical study in
and biotin.
healthy volunteers, it was shown
It is very difficult to guarantee
that the relative bioavailability
consistent levels of B complex
of a Lalmin Zn supplement was
vitamins in brewer’s by-products
significantly higher than a zinc
and even baker’s yeast. For this
gluconate supplement. The
reason, Lallemand has developed
protein-bound zinc from the
a yeast-based ingredient that’s
zinc yeast enabled better zinc
standardized in elevated and fixed
uptake and retention by the body,
levels of B vitamins to guarantee a
whereas zinc gluconate was less
consistently high level of seven of the
biologically available and even led
B complex vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B5,
to a small net loss of zinc 48 hours
B6, B8, B9). The vitamins in this yeast
after ingestion (Figure 2).7 This study
are standardized so that 500 mg
was supported by animal model
of the supplement brings 100% of
results showing a 3.7 fold increase
the European RDA for the seven
in bioavailability for Lalmin Zn when
B vitamins. Either separately or in
compared with equivalent doses
combination, yeast based minerals
of gluconate Zinc.8
and vitamins can offer a variety of applications for the nutricosmetics
Enhancing Yeast’s Natural B-eauty Potential!
market, such as antiageing,
B complex vitamins are essential
supplements. PHM
for hair/skin development and health. Among the B vitamin family, three members have received EFSA ‘beauty’ claims: vitamin B2 (riboflavin) and vitamin B3 (niacin) for skin benefits, and biotin (vitamin B8) for skin and hair benefits.9–11 Biotin deficiency is associated with scaly, eczematous skin, which is reversible by administering biotin, and the thinning and progression
20
antioxidant, sun protection, skin, nail and/or hair health and beauty
For more information
Morgane Maillard Product Manager, Mineral and Vitamin Enriched Yeasts Lallemand Health Ingredients 19, rue des Briquetiers F-31702 Blagnac, France. Tel. +33 562 745 505 mmaillard@lallemand.com www.lallemandhi.com
1. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Selenium and Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 281), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 281), Protection Against Heavy Metals (ID 383), Maintenance of Normal Joints (ID 409), Maintenance of Normal Thyroid Function (ID 410, 1292), Protection of DNA, Proteins And Lipids from Oxidative Damage (ID 1292), and Maintenance of the Normal Function of the Immune System (ID 1750) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1727 (2010). 2. A. Sengupta, et al., “Selenoproteins are Essential for Proper Keratinocyte Function and Skin Development,” PLoS ONE 5(8): e12249, doi:10.1371/journal. pone.0012249 (2010). 3. J.P. Cesarini, et al., “Immediate Effects of UV Radiation on the Skin: Modification by an Antioxidant Complex Containing Carotenoids,” Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 19, 182–189 (2003). 4. R.C. McKenzie, “Selenium, Ultraviolet Radiation and the Skin,” Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 25, 631–636 (2000). 5. EFSA Panel on Food Additives, Flavourings, Processing Aids and Materials in Contact with Foods (AFC), “Scientific Opinion of the Panel on Food Additives, Flavourings, Processing Aids and Materials in Contact with Food (AFC) on a Request from the Commission on Selenium-Enriched Yeast as Source for Selenium,” The EFSA Journal 766, 1–43 (2008). 6. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Zinc and Maintenance of Normal Skin (ID 293), DNA Synthesis and Cell Division (ID 293), Contribution to Normal Protein Synthesis (ID 293, 4293), Maintenance of Normal Serum Testosterone Concentrations (ID 301), “Normal Growth” (ID 303), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 304), Contribution to Carbohydrate Metabolism (ID 382), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 412), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 412) and Contribution to Normal Macronutrient Metabolism (ID 2890) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006, “The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1819 (2010). 7. T. Tompkins, N. Renard and A. Kiuchi, “Clinical Evaluation of the Bioavailability of Zinc-Enriched Yeast and Zinc Gluconate in Healthy Volunteers,” Biol. Trace Element Res. 120, 28-35 (2007). 8. A. Vinson, N. Renard and T. Tompkins, ”Comparative Bioavailability of MineralEnriched Gluconates and Yeast in Rat Liver After Depletion–Repletion Feeding,” Biol. Trace Element Res. 118, 104–110 (2007). 9. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA),” Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Riboflavin (Vitamin B2) and Contribution to Normal Energy-Yielding Metabolism (ID 29, 35, 36, 42), Contribution to Normal Metabolism of Iron (ID 30, 37), Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 31,33), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 32), Maintenance of Normal Bone (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Teeth (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Vision (ID 39), Maintenance of Normal Red Blood Cells (ID 40), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 41), Protection of DNA, Proteins and Lipids from Oxidative Damage (ID 207), and Maintenance of the Normal Function of the Nervous System (ID 213) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1814 (2010). 10. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Niacin and Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 47), Contribution to Normal Energy-Yielding Metabolism (ID 51), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 55), Maintenance of Normal Blood Flow (ID 211), and Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 4700) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1757 (2010). 11. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Biotin and Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Bone (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Teeth (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 121, 2877), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 119), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 120) and Contribution to Normal Macronutrient Metabolism (ID 4661) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1728 (2010). 12. D.M. Mock in B. Caballero and A.L. Prentice (Eds.), Encyclopedia of Human Nutrition (Elsevier, Oxford, UK, 2005).
spring 2011
hyadisine
™
Retains water to smooth the skin
The excellent long-lasting moisturizing and immediate anti-wrinkle properties of hyadisine™ proven in vivo showed the efficacy of this biotechnological marinebased active ingredient to improve skin appearance, with significant reduction of lines in only 2 hours.
www.lipotec.com
hair care
Polymers I
Next-generation conditioning polymer technology for hair. n this multitasking world,
customer success personally and,
conditioning benefits in hair
hair. In independent laboratory
personal care products
by listening, learns how to meet
care products. Have you been
testing, formulations based on
must serve multiple
the needs of its customers today …
looking for new ways to provide
EcoSmooth Silk were shown to
functions. Lotions moisturize
and as they change in the future.
conditioning benefits in hair care
provide minimized hair breakage
and provide sun protection;
In today’s competitive personal
products? As a non-cationic
and equivalent conditioning.
shampoos cleanse the scalp,
care market, there is an increasing
polymer, EcoSmooth Silk, the
Internal testing also showed
condition the hair and protect
need for superior, high quality,
first product in this new family of
reduced build-up and volume-
it from damaging elements
high performance ingredients
polymers, represents a new tool
down effects, and cost the same
such as the sun and pollution. To
for hair care products. As a
in the formulator’s toolbox and
as formulations with silicone.
increase a cosmetic’s efficiency
global leader in the conditioning
delivers an excellent balance of
in delivering the desired benefits,
polymer market, Dow Personal
cost and performance benefits
formulators have to work with
Care is living up to its brand
in formulations. EcoSmooth Silk
Chemistry: Novel Conditioner
ingredients that allow for unique
promise of leveraging its scientific
provides personal care brand
EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning
combinations, maximizing
innovation by introducing the first
owners an alternative to silicone
Polymers (INCI Name: Ethylene/
the effectiveness of each
groundbreaking conditioning
in shampoo formulations.
Octene Copolymer (and)
individual component in the
polymers in many decades.
EcoSmooth Silk is especially
Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate
effective in formulations for use
Copolymer) consist of non-
with Asian and European virgin
cationic ethane-1-copolymer
and consumers, Dow Personal
Conditioning Polymers
(non-dyed) hair types and has
(polyolefin) dispersed in water
Care, a business of The Dow
EcoSmooth Conditioning Polymers
been proven by an independent
with an acrylic-based proprietary
Chemical Company and its
are a new family of conditioning
lab to match silicone in wet and
polymer dispersant. EcoSmooth
consolidated subsidiaries, provides
polymers that have been
dry combing, as well as improve
Silk has a typical pH range of
a comprehensive portfolio of
designed to provide exceptional
hair strength, on damaged
9.5–10.5, as delivered, and its solids
ingredients for hair, skin and sun
benefits and embody a fresh,
care. Dow Personal Care takes
new approach to providing
final formulation. By listening to the needs of customers
As a non-cationic polymer, EcoSmooth Silk represents a new tool in the formulator’s toolbox.
22
Figure 1: Volume testing after 10 washes.
spring 2011
A
B
Figure 2: Panel study test of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on Asian virgin hair (A: ammonium lauryl ether sulfate/ammonium lauryl sulfate/betaine/coco monoethanolamide [AL ALS/betaine/CMEA] with 0.25% cationic guar) and European damaged brown hair (B: sodium lauryl ether sulfate/disodium cocoamphodiacetate [SLES/DSCADA] with ethylene glycol distearate [EGDS] with 0.25% cationic guar). content ranges between 40 and
studies show that EcoSmooth
44%. EcoSmooth Silk polymers
Silk performs as well as silicone in
do not use the traditional co-
two-in-one shampoos for Asian
acervate mechanism associated
virgin hair, 8-hour bleached hair
with cationic conditioners.
and on European brown hair
Because EcoSmooth Silk is not
(Figure 2). In tests conducted
cationically charged, it is believed
by an independent
that hydrophobic forces, instead
laboratory evaluating
of ionic forces, bind it to the
wet comb and dry hair
hair shaft and give hair a softer
breakage on bleached
feel. EcoSmooth Silk contains a
hair, it was found that
proprietary dispersion technology
the performance
that is sulfate-free and ethylene
of EcoSmooth Silk
oxide-free.
was equivalent to dimethicone. When
Performance: Actions Speak Louder than Words
comparing the wet
Improved volume: In a series
breakage provided by
of comparative performance
both the conditioning
tests, formulations containing
polymer and silicone
EcoSmooth Silk were shown
on bleached
to provide improved volume,
European brown hair,
suggesting less product build-up
results indicate that in wet
when compared with silicone-
comb testing, the polymer
containing shampoos. In a build-up
reduced the peak load by
study comparing EcoSmooth Silk
39% compared with silicone’s
with dimethicone, hair treated with
41% reduction (Figure 3).
EcoSmooth Silk has significantly
Regarding hair breakage, the
more volume after 10 washes
polymer reduced the number
(Figure 1). The volume-down
of broken hair fibres by 59%,
build-up effects of silicone are well
compared with silicone’s 51%
known. As build-up on hair is a
(Figure 4).
common consumer concern, the
Environmental health and safety:
performance benefits offered by
Reflecting on The Dow Chemical
EcoSmooth Silk represent a distinct
Company’s 2015 Sustainability
advantage to formulators looking
Goals, EcoSmooth Silk is
to address the issue of build-up as
considered to be non-toxic by
they develop new formulations.
single oral and dermal exposure,
Equivalent to silicone conditioning
slightly irritating to the skin and
performance: When comparing
eyes (that is, not classified as an
EcoSmooth Silk and silicone,
irritant in EEC) and not a sensitizer.
subjective test results indicate that
The polymer is considered to
their conditioning performance
be safe and appropriate for
is the same, as is the cost. Panel
use in a broad range of rinse-
2011 spring
comb force reduction and reduction in hair
23
hair care
EcoSmooth Silk provides personal care brand owners an alternative to silicone in shampoo formulations.
Figure 3: Wet comb testing of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on bleached European brown hair (15.5 SLES/3.5 DSCADA/0.25% cationic guar/EGDS/1% EcoSmooth Silk or silicone).
off personal care applications.
market. In the same way that
EcoSmooth Silk is one example
collaboration spurred the
of how Dow Personal Care is
innovation of EcoSmooth Silk
delivering on its commitment to
Conditioning Polymers, Dow
use resources more efficiently,
Personal Care continues to
provide value to customers and
integrate valuable, effective and
stakeholders, deliver solutions for
cost-efficient hair care options
customer needs and enhance
and solutions. EcoSmooth
the quality of life of current and
Satin, an alternative to cationic
future generations. Dow Personal
guar in clear shampoo for mild
Care is dedicated to providing
conditioning, is the next product
solutions based on sustainable
in the EcoSmooth Conditioning
chemistry and is able to leverage
Polymers portfolio and is
the technologies and capabilities
expected to be launched in
of the company to develop
May 2011. PHM
and refine solutions. As a result, our technologies enable our customers — and their customers — to develop more sustainable products and services, which is good for business and good for the world.
Meeting Tomorrow’s Customer Needs Today In summary, the new innovative EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers from Dow Personal
Figure 4: Repeated grooming of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on bleached European brown hair (15.5 SLES/3.5 DSCADA/0.25% cationic guar/EGDS/1% EcoSmooth Silk or silicone).
24
Care provide multiple benefits and excellent value to formulators in the hair care
For more information
Courtney S. Fretz is the strategic marketing manager for hair care and sustainability for Dow Home and Personal Care, a business unit within Dow’s Advanced Materials division. Fretz holds a Master of Business Administration (MBA) degree from Harvard Business School and a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and East Asian studies from the University of Pennsylvania. For a sample of EcoSmooth Silk and/or additional information, visit www.EcoSmoothSilk.com.
spring 2011
Natural
Treasures
NatraGem E145 & NatraGem S140 TM
Have you discovered the NatraGem Green Gems? Green These natural treasures are approved natural by Ecocert and Gems offer effective green solutions to emulsification and solubilisation. NatraGem E145 is a versatile, high HLB, oil-in-water emulsifier, which can be used to create a variety of natural cosmetics. NatraGem S140 is a highly efficient natural solubiliser capable of incorporating a wide range of lipophilic ingredients into clear formulations.
■
Approved natural by Ecocert
■
Cold processable
■
Ultimately biodegradable
■
Free from ethoxylates and propoxylates
■
Suitable for use in a wide range of natural cosmetic applications
Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia
Innovation you can build onTM
2011 spring
25
regulatory affairs
on ABS
The Nagoya Protocol and its possible implications for the sourcing of natural ingredients. Protocol for biodiversity
genetic resources, which includes
based research and
research and development on
commercial activities will
the “biochemical composition of
only be determined as
genetic material.” Such a definition
its provisions are applied
was considered necessary to
in the context of national
achieve meaningful sharing of
laws and regulations. Yet, for business, particularly companies using biodiversity as the source and inspiration for innovative ingredients, the Nagoya Protocol already entails both increased scrutiny and additional guidance on ABS.
the benefits of biodiversity, as biochemical compounds are the basis for a wide range of products. Flavonoids, for example, are among the compounds widely used in cosmetic formulations for their skincare properties. Alkaloids, such as those found in the seeds of coffee and
What is the Nagoya Protocol on ABS?
guaraná, are broadly used in
The Nagoya Protocol on ABS is an
Although the application to ABS
international instrument adopted
of such compounds had been
n October 2010, more than
under the auspices of the CBD. Its
disputed in the past, the new
190 countries adopted new
objective is the fair and equitable
definitions in the Nagoya Protocol
rules on access and benefit
sharing of the benefits arising from the
seem to assert that research on
sharing (ABS). The Nagoya
utilization of genetic resources, thereby
the properties of extracts and
Protocol on ABS is the
contributing to the conservation
molecules from plants, for example,
culmination of years of negotiations
and sustainable use of biodiversity.
and their development and
aiming to put into effect a central
The Nagoya Protocol opened for
commercialization as ingredients
premise of the Convention on
signatures in February 2011 and four
in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics
Biological Diversity (CBD): the fair
countries, including Colombia and
or nutraceuticals is subject to
and equitable sharing of benefits
Brazil, signed it during this ceremony.
ABS. It is still not clear how these
derived from biodiversity. The CBD
The main provisions of the Nagoya
requirements will be implemented
established benefit sharing as one
Protocol include
along the supply chain, but
of its main objectives and outlined
•a definition of the objective, use of
companies will now need to
I
basic principles such as prior
terms and scope of the Nagoya
make sure that both they and their
informed consent and mutually
Protocol
providers comply will all relevant
agreed terms. Yet, these principles remained largely unimplemented, with a range of difficulties and different views on ways to overcome them. With the Nagoya Protocol, the fair and equitable sharing of benefits has come to
•e laboration on ABS principles and
legislation.
main requirements •p ossible mechanisms for implementation, including an ABS clearinghouse •m easures to promote compliance with ABS
Will the Nagoya Protocol Apply to New Uses or All Uses of Genetic Resources?
stay. ABS has been reaffirmed
•a wareness raising, capacity building
as a fundamental component
and transfer of technology activities
negotiations, there were different
of biodiversity strategies. A set of
on ABS.
positions on when benefit-sharing
rules has been agreed upon to
During the Nagoya Protocol
requirements become applicable. Should benefit sharing apply
addition, a range of capacity
What Activities Are Covered Under its ABS Requirements?
building and technical assistance
ABS requirements of the Nagoya
enforced (for example, medicinal
programmes is being launched to
Protocol, as in the CBD, apply to
plants to be collected during a
support its prompt translation into
“genetic resources.” The Nagoya
screening programme in late 2012)?
concrete laws and practices. The
Protocol, however, has a new
Or should these requirements
precise implications of the Nagoya
definition of the “utilization” of
extend to all new uses of genetic
facilitate, promote and ensure its effective implementation. In
26
functional foods and beverages.
solely in relation to plant material accessed after the new rules were
spring 2011
resources, even if access took place
requirements. Previously accessed
the time of providing access, for the
already considering access and
before the Nagoya Protocol? Such
and used resources and benefits
issuance of a permit or its equivalent
benefit sharing in the context of their
would be the case, for instance, in
that have already been accrued
as evidence of the decision to grant
ethical sourcing practices, such a
the identification and development
would not be covered by the new
prior informed consent and of the
clarification reaffirms the need for all
as a cosmetic ingredient of a type
requirements.
establishment of mutually agreed
companies working with biodiversity
terms.
based ingredients to review their
of fruit seed oil obtained in 1997
the utilization of genetic resources
This issue, referred to as “temporal
Are There Any Changes to Existing ABS Requirements?
held by indigenous and local
now be able to refer to the more
scope,” was not expressly resolved
National rules on access and benefit
communities. In the CBD, the role of
comprehensive and practical
in the Nagoya Protocol. According
sharing: Recognizing the gaps
indigenous and local communities
provisions on ABS of the Nagoya
to international law, a legal
and complexities in the national
is only expressly recognized in
Protocol. There are also new
instrument cannot affect acts that
implementation of access and
relation to traditional knowledge.
issues to consider, including how
took place or situations that ceased
benefit sharing, the Nagoya Protocol
The Nagoya Protocol, however,
benefit sharing functions without a
to exist before its entry into force.
requires countries to provide for legal
also states that the use of genetic
necessary link to access procedures,
Nevertheless, new uses of previously
certainty, clarity and transparency
resources should take place with
how the prior informed consent of
obtained genetic resources could
in their relevant legislation or
the prior informed consent of
indigenous and local communities
be seen to entail new instances of
regulatory requirements. In addition,
indigenous and local communities
is appropriately obtained, and how
access — and thus be covered.
countries should make information
when they have the right to grant
new mechanisms for access and
Similarly, new benefits arising from
available on how to apply for prior
access to such resources. Similarly,
benefit sharing, including certificates
prior or ongoing uses may also
informed consent and provide
benefits resulting from the use of
of compliance established as a
be considered as new situations
written, cost-effective and timely
genetic resources rightfully held by
“passport” for biodiversity along
for benefit sharing — though not
replies to requests for such consent.
indigenous and local communities
the supply chain, can be used
for access —
Finally, countries should provide, at
should be shared with those
and navigated. It should be kept
communities. Such measures,
in mind that the Nagoya Protocol
already required by some national
does not constitute an immediate
laws and standards such as that of
or magical solution. It will take some
the UEBT, now clearly become part
time for policy makers, experts and
and previously known only for its properties as a dietary supplement.
Which Countries Are Required to Establish Measures for ABS?
Another new provision refers to
relevant policies and practices. In such a review, companies will
of access and benefit sharing best Compliance measures to ensure that ABS requirements are observed across national practices. borders are at the core of the Nagoya Protocol. ABS provisions in the CBD already established obligations for both countries providing access to genetic resources and also for countries where biodiversity based research, development and commercialization usually take place. Yet, little What Does This progress was made on legislative, administrative or policy measures that would ensure Mean for Natural international ABS compliance. The Nagoya Protocol now requires all countries to establish “appropriate, Ingredients effective and proportionate” measures to provide that genetic resources and traditional knowledge utilized in Food and within their jurisdiction have been accessed on the basis of prior informed consent and mutually agreed terms, Personal Care? as required by the country of origin. As a result, it would be not only Brazil or Malaysia, for example, that would For companies working need to establish mechanisms to regulate and control access to their biological resources. France or Japan, for instance, would also need to ensure that research, development and commercialization conducted within their with biodiversity based ingredients for countries utilizes genetic resources according to the requirements established by the countries of origin of these food and personal resources. According to the Nagoya Protocol, France or Japan — to continue using those examples — would also care products, need to take appropriate, effective and proportionate measures in cases of non-compliance. Indeed, to monitor the utilization of genetic resources, these countries would need to designate one or more “checkpoints” along the value perhaps the chain, as well as collaborate and grant access to justice in cases of alleged violation of national ABS legislations. most important
other stakeholders to determine
development in the
quickly to put ABS in practice will
Nagoya Protocol
reduce the growing reputation and
is the clarification
regulatory risks of non-compliance.
of the scope of
For companies working with
ABS requirements.
biodiversity based ingredients for
Research conducted on the biochemical composition of plants to determine beneficial properties, as well as the subsequent development and commercialization of bioactive compounds as ingredients is considered to be the “utilization of genetic resources.” It must therefore take place with prior informed consent and fair and equitable sharing of benefits. Although some companies in the food and personal care sectors were
2011 spring
what the Nagoya Protocol can and should mean in practice. Although only a starting point, the Nagoya Protocol does nevertheless reaffirm the importance of ABS: it is also a renewed call for all stakeholders to take relevant principles into consideration in all their activities. In this regard, early adopters of ABS in the food and personal care sectors stand to gain a competitive advantage from the growing interest and attention to the topic. In addition, moving
food and personal care products, therefore, the Nagoya Protocol should be seen as an opportunity to advance their engagement and commitment to the ethical sourcing of biodiversity. PHM
For more information
María Julia Oliva Union for Ethical BioTrade 32 Rue de Berne, CH-1201 Geneva, Switzerland. Tel. +41 22 566 1585 julia@ethicalbiotrade.org www.ethicalbiotrade.org
27
natural ingredients
Nature’s Antiageing Multitasker Natural active ingredients with antiageing effects are very popular these days. At this year’s in-cosmetics, a new star is making its way onto the stage: Echinacea purpurea, the purple coneflower. The plant, with its burgundy-red blossoms, ranks among the untapped greats in the field of cosmetics, as the new active ingredient from Symrise demonstrates.
A
ntiageing products
meets all of these demands:
has several clinically confirmed
in two in vitro and two ex vivo
are a growth
the multitalented plant provides
effects. The plant extract
studies. Symrise researchers
market; and, at the
extensive protection against
stimulates the immune system, is
were able to demonstrate that
same time, the issue
premature skin ageing while also
anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial,
SymFinity 1298 creates a significant
is a major challenge
meeting the cosmetics industry’s
has antioxidative properties and
improvement in the skin’s defence
for the cosmetics industry.
increasing need for natural
helps to support the wound-
against stress after a mere 48
Consumers want products that do
ingredients.
healing process. Symrise has
hours. The recommended dose is
now marketed a 100% natural
0.1%. “The most well-known sirtuin
more than just minimize existing
Echinacea purpurea originally
wrinkles; they are looking for wide-
came from North America where
antiageing concentrate of
activator to date is resveratrol, a
ranging protection against harmful
native peoples used it to heal
Echinacea purpurea. Known
polyphenol found in grapes. This is
environmental factors, an effective
wounds. The Europeans did not
as SymFinity 1298, this product is
why we were looking for an active
way to prevent further ageing and
learn to appreciate the medicinal
obtained from the dried juice of
ingredient that was comparable
a radiant, healthy complexion. In
properties of echinacea until
the fresh plant. “SymFinity 1298
in effect to resveratrol … but
addition, the demand for natural
the 20th century. Nowadays,
has three-fold effects: as a sirtuin
more stable, easier to formulate
ingredients is growing as well. The
the purple coneflower is seen
activator, an antioxidant and an
and cost-effective,” explained
new Echinacea purpurea extract
to be a versatile substance that
anti-irritant,” explains Dr Marielle
Dr Marielle le Maire. “We found
le Maire, Global Product Director
the right active substance in
of Life Essentials at Symrise. “It
Echinacea purpurea.”
activates the synthesis of sirtuin,
echinacea have primarily been
of skin cells. Sirtuin helps the skin
used to treat respiratory infections;
to protect itself more effectively
they have rarely been found in
against stress and is considered
cosmetic products. Dr Marielle le
to be one of its natural ‘defence
Maire, however, is confident that this
mechanisms.’ It helps to repair
will soon change: “We have only
the damage caused by UVB
just begun to maximize the purple
rays and improves the skin’s
coneflower’s potential in terms
detoxification processes.”
of its use in cosmetic products.”
SymFinity 1298’s
Symrise is consistently focusing on
antioxidative properties
the power of nature when it comes
also combat the skin
to the other product innovations
damage caused by free
it is presenting at in-cosmetics.
radicals, thus providing
Among other things, the company
additional protection
is featuring natural extracts of
against premature ageing.
vegetables and grains with
Furthermore, SymFinity 1298 is an effective anti-irritant that regulates inflammatory dermal reactions, which prevents age spots and an uneven complexion. It is particularly powerful regarding the prevention long-term damage to the skin. The efficacy of SymFinity 1298 was confirmed
28
To date, botanical extracts of
a protein that prolongs the life
beneficial properties, and these substances are now being used in cosmetic products as well. PHM
For more information
Dr Marielle le Maire Global Product Director of Life Essentials Symrise (www.symrise.com).
spring 2011
2011 spring
29
male grooming
for the Hirsute
A premium brand of paraben-free shaving cream and post-shave balm aimed at men with heavy beard growth has been launched in the UK. The piratical-sounding The Bluebeards Revenge contains an ingredient called Decelerine, which the company claims can reduce beard growth by up to 40% in 60 days.
N
ick Gibbens,
targets hair follicle cells
spokesperson
and weakens new hair
for the British
formation.
brand, said: “Decelerine has
According to the manufacturer, Lipotec,
been proven to inhibit hair growth
in tests, Decelerine
and decrease the length and
showed a 30% decrease
density of unwanted hair, thus
in hair length as well as
reducing the frequency of shaving
a 16% reduction in hair
and depilation. “It also provides
density after 60 days.
a soothing, moisturizing and anti-
Decelerine, which contains
inflammatory effect on the skin.
water, glycerine, Barbados Aloe
This, in turn, helps to reduce razor
(Aloe barbadensis) leaf extract,
rash and razor burn.” So how does
lauryl isoquinolinium bromide,
industry insists that parabens,
chosen by shaving enthusiasts.
Decelerine work? The normal
Psuedoalteromonas ferment
which are approved for use by
It is based on a fresh and classic
hair growth cycle is divided
extract, polyquaternium-37,
regulators, are safe. “The debate
English barbershop scent with a
into four periods: active growth
disodium EDTA, isopropyl alcohol,
rages on about the possible
modern twist. Based on average
phase (anagen), a short transition
sodium sorbate, sodium benzoate,
cancer inducing properties
use, a tub of The Bluebeards
period with regression (catagen),
allantoin, glucose and caprylyl
of parabens; but, despite this,
Revenge shaving cream typically
a resting phase (telogen) and a
glycol has a recommended
many manufacturers still use
lasts for 4–5 months, whereas the
shedding stage (exogen). Then,
concentration level of 3%.
them as a cheap and effective
post-shave balm has an expected
way of increasing the shelf-life
lifespan of 2–3 months.
the new hair starts to grow and the Hair length is primarily a function
Paraben-Free Shaving Cream
of their products,” says Nick. He
of the relative durations of anagen
The Bluebeards Revenge,
between parabens and cancer
Positive Press Coverage
and telogen. Whether hairs are
which uses totally recyclable
has not been proven, we have
The Bluebeards Revenge shaving
in one of these phases at the
packaging, does not contain
taken the conscious decision
cream has proved to be an
time of hair removal is important
any of the controversial paraben
to steer well clear of them.” The
instant success around the
because only anagen-stage
preservatives that are found
Bluebeards Revenge is made with
globe, with a large number of
hairs are particularly sensitive
in many of today’s cosmetic
vegetarian-friendly ingredients
coveted retailers stocking the
to physical injuries. Decelerine
products. The cosmetics
and has a signature scent that was
shaving cream and the post-
follicle reverts back to anagen.
30
added: “Whereas the connection
spring 2011
shave balm. The company has attributed its early success to the positive media coverage that the brand has received. Wet shaving experts from around the globe have praised the cream for its luxurious lather, modern scent and consistency, with Mike Sandoval, from Shaving101.com, describing it as one of the best shaving creams he has ever used. About.com grooming editor, Dave Alexander, was equally as impressed with The Bluebeards Revenge. “The cream created a very slick surface on my skin and I experienced no razor drag at all. The shave was incredibly close and I got an excellent shave with just one pass of the razor — not something that happens all that often with other shave creams I’ve tried,” he said. The product left my skin smooth and moisturized to the point that I didn’t really feel the need to use a separate moisturizer afterward. I also got an excellent, irritationfree shave using The Bluebeards Revenge. The performance was
Whereas the connection between parabens and cancer has not been proven, we have taken the conscious decision to steer well clear of them.
on par with some of the best
the hair on their bodies by 40% in
shave creams I’ve tried; in fact, it
60 days too. So, effectively, our
now tops that list.”
‘World’s Manliest Shaving Product’ has been hijacked by women to
A Growing Female Fan Base
reduce the hair growth on their
The brand, which is available to
The Bluebeards Revenge product
buy in more than ten countries,
range has now been expanded
has also proved to be extremely
into badger-hair shaving brushes,
popular with the ladies, with one
Mach3 razors, safety razors,
retailer reporting that more than
cutthroat razors, wash bags and
1000 women have snapped up the
shaving gift sets. PHM
legs, underarms and bikini lines.”
miracle antihair product since its launch. Tom Truman, spokesperson for The Shaving Shack, said: “Despite the product being heavily aimed at men with significant beard growth, we started noticing a quarter of buying customers were women. We presumed at first they were buying for their husbands, but the trend continued and is now accounting for half our sales.” He continued: “We have conducted some research into this, and discovered that women have seen their husbands use it, or seen the Decelerine coverage, and realized that if they use it themselves, they can reduce
For more information
Nick Gibbens Digital Marketing Manager The Bluebeards Revenge Tel. +44 1752 898 191 www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
AMA LABORATORIES, INC . A Tradition – Prompt Precise Professional
A Tradition –
Prompt Precise Professional
About AMA Founded in 1984, AMA Laboratories, Inc. has served as a complete facility for scientific testing, product development and consumer research for a vastly diverse clientele, across the globe. AMA is a registered laboratory with the FDA, EPA, USDA, as well as NYS Department of Health and is subject to regular inspections. AMA maintains membership in such professional societies as SCC, PBA, PCPC, DCES and the AAPS. AMA’s Quality Management System has been registered to ISO 9001:2008. • SPF (Sun Protection Factor) - AMA can conduct these tests according to all protocols. • Product Safety Testing – Including, but not limited to, Human Comedogenicity, Phototoxicity/Maximization, RIPT. • Skin Studies - Including, but not limited to, Moisturization, Wrinkle Reduction, TEWL, Skin Elasticity, Sebometry • Beauty Salon Studies – Supervised by a certified/ licensed cosmetologist
Ask about our FREE In-Vitro Sunscreen Testing • Hair & Nail Studies – Including Tensile Strength, Gravimetric ”Pull” • SPF (Sun Protection Factor) • Product Safety Testing • Skin Studies
• Beauty Salon Studies • Hair & Nail Studies • Antiperspirant / Odor Efficacy Studies
Analysis, Regimented Combing
• Consumer Research, • Antiperspirant/ Odor Efficacy Studies Claim Substantiation •Consumer Research, Claim Substantiation and Demonstration and Demonstration Development Development • Scientific Photography – Which allows visual substantiation bio• physical Scientific Photography& product efficacy measurements *Individual protocols can be constructed to meet the unique products and claim substantiation requirements of our clients.
216 Congers Rd., New City, NY 10956 845.634.4330 Fax: 845.634.5565
2011 spring
www.amalabs.com AMA Laboratories Inc. 216 Congers Road, New City ● Bldg 1 ● New York 10956 USA www.amalabs.com
31
technology
Nanoscale system aids cosmeceutical delivery.
Under My Skin
T
Using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS)
he capacity
naturally occurring, high-
(such as those found in cosmetics
for topical oil-
density lipoproteins (HDL) that
and pharmaceuticals).
based products
bind cholesterol.2 Such proteins
to effectively
transport a hydrophobic
substances through the stratum
size is consistent at the pH
penetrate the skin,
molecule in the largely aqueous
corneum is tightly mediated
and temperature found within
and therefore deliver the active
environment of the bloodstream.
by particle size. Hydrophilic
the body, it is important to
compounds where it counts,
The Lipodisq nanoparticles could
channels within the dermal
gain accurate and reliable
presents a perennial challenge
potentially carry oil-soluble
structure that could potentially
characterization data. This is
for both the pharmaceutical
cosmetic or pharmaceutical
allow particles access are only
possible using dynamic light
and the personal care industry.
agents within them, and are
about 2 nm in diameter.3 Any
scattering (DLS), a rapid and real-
However, a recent study has
of an ideal size and flexibility
subcellular delivery system that
time particle sizing technique.
highlighted a new nanoscale
to be able to enter channels
is greater than about 50 nm
DLS works by measuring the
delivery system that may just
in the outermost layers of the
in size will remain firmly on the
intensity of scattered light from
provide an answer.1 Here we
epidermis (stratum corneum).
skin’s surface, whereas those
a suspension of particles under
look at how the Zetasizer Nano
Here they form a reservoir of the
below 5–10 nm, such as micellar
Brownian motion, and then
particle characterization system
active ingredient carried within
assemblies, are considered to
analysing time-dependent
from Malvern Instruments is being
the formulation. Lipodisqs are
be too unstable to efficiently
fluctuations. 5 The sensitivity of DLS
used to analyse the effects of
composed of a phospholipid
transport active ingredients
enables it to track changes in the
pH and temperature on a novel
membrane core surrounded by
through the stratum corneum.4
size of particles to below 1 nm in
nanoparticle delivery system
a chaperone molecule that is
The nanoparticles described
diameter, and to accuracies of
— Lipodisq — developed by
either a responsive polymer or a
here lie within the critical
a fraction of a nanometre. This
Malvern Cosmeceutics Ltd
surfactant that forms a cone-like
size range of approximately
makes it particularly well suited
(Malvern, UK).
shape to entrap the phospholipid
10–50 nm. Their high degree
when investigating changes in
in a bilayer or spherical form.
of flexibility means they can
the size of particles that can be
A Novel Nanoparticle Delivery System
Slight changes to this cone-like
wedge themselves into the
found in the human body
structure can result in changes
elastic hydrophilic pores of the
to the shape or size of the
stratum corneum, accumulating
The Lipodisq system is designed
phospholipid assembly or lead to
in the outer layers and forming
The Effect of pH and Temperature
to overcome the constraints of
its breakdown. The hydrophobic
a reservoir of active material
The shape and size of a
conventional delivery systems.
core can encapsulate
so that they can penetrate the
polymeric Lipodisq nanoparticle
It does this by mimicking
hydrophobic or oily molecules
outer layers of the skin.
can be altered by precisely
Crucially, delivery of
To ensure that nanoparticle
controlling the pH. By varying the ratio of hydrophobic to hydrophilic groups in the backbone of the chaperone molecule, the molecular charge, coiling and shape can be finely tuned. At low pH values, the mean diameter of the particles increases as the molecule undergoes dimensional changes; but, if the pH increases, it regains its former size and shape. This technique could be used to control the size of nanoparticles within the body. By replacing the negatively charged chaperone molecule with a surfactant, it becomes possible to use temperature instead of pH as a means of controlling particle size. In
32
spring 2011
Lipodisq nanoparticles could potentially carry oil-soluble cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents within them and should be able to penetrate the outermost layers of the epidermis.
this situation, the surfactant
surfactant-phospholipid
also increased from about
interacts with the phospholipid
interactions. This eventually leads
20 nm to more than 300 nm. This
portion of the nanoparticle. As
to the release of the phospholipid
size increase continued to the
the temperature increases, the
as a macroscopic emulsion.
point when the nanoparticle
hydrophilic groups become
disrupted and the phospholipids
Tailoring the Response
were released to form a dense
the hydrophobic/hydrophilic balance and making the
Results from the Zetasizer Nano
temperature cooled, the original
nanoparticle more hydrophobic;
demonstrated that as pH was
particle size was restored. Lipodisq
this leads to an increase in
reduced, the mean diameter of
technology is being assessed
particle size. At the cloud point
the nanoparticles increased from
for multiple uses in both the
— the temperature at which
about 12 nm to more than
cosmetic and pharmaceutical
dissolved surfactants are no
200 nm. In separate experiments,
fields, and for widespread
longer completely soluble —
as the temperature was gradually
applications in other fields of
the complex begins to break
increased from 20 to 90 °C, in
technology in which controlled
less hydrated, decreasing
down because of weakened 1 A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout
References
1. A . Harper, et al., “pH and Temperature Responsive Novel Nanoparticles Characterized by Dynamic Light Scattering,” presented at Particulate Systems Analysis 2008 (Stratfordupon-Avon, UK, September 2008). 2. A . Harper, et al., “Environmentally Responsive Nanoparticles for Delivery as Assessed via Light Scattering and Near-infrared Imaging,” Cosmetics & Toiletries 125(9), 52–57 (2010). 3. G. Cevc, “Lipid Vesicles and Other Colloids as Drug Carriers on the Skin,” Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews 56, 675–711 (2004). 4. J .A. Bouwstra, et al., “Skin Structure and Mode of Action of Vesicles,” Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews 54(Suppl. 1), S41–S55 (2002). 5. www.malvern.com/zetasizer.
emulsion. However, as the
increments of 115:23 °C, particle 07.09.2010 Uhr size Seite 3release is required. PHM
For more information
Malcolm Connah Product Marketing Manager, Nanometrics Malvern Instruments Enigma Business Park Grovewood Road, Malvern WR14 1XZ, UK. Tel. +44 1684 892 456 www.malvern.com
www.stolz-concept.de
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com
last word
Innovative Proprietary Approaches With more than 40% of the population stating that they suffer from sensitive skin, the incidence of skin sensitivity and discomfort is increasing. This includes a broad spectrum of mild to severe dermatological conditions such as dryness, redness, scaling, flaking, papules and oedema, all of which can affect self-esteem and quality of life. Non-medicinal preparations that are safe, effective and mild enough for everyday use are sought to help manage these stressful manifestations.
I
BR-ProPhyDerm is a newly
of 26 mild-to-moderate eczema
linked to recurring irritation and
developed proprietary, non-
patients. The total scoring and
inflammation of the skin, most
steroidal composition for
efficacy index of both treatments
commonly initiated by exposure to
dermal relief. Formulated to
(IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream versus
UV. Ageing, acne, depilation, sun
address the dermatological
hydrocortisone [1%] cream) was
exposure, hormonal imbalances
needs of the consumer, such
identical, representing a 70%
and various skin disorders form
as dermal relief, calming,
improvement in the appearance
just a short list of other factors that
beautification and moisturization,
of skin eczema symptoms after
can result in hyperpigmentation.
its composition is based on the
4 weeks of use (Figure 1).
IBR-Phyto(flu)ene is a colourless
science supporting its active
combination of two carotenoids,
botanic extracts. Natural activity,
Skin Beautification
phytoene and phytofluene,
and the fact that it’s safe and
One of the strongest trends driving
an advanced technology
mild enough for everyday use,
the global skincare market today
platform for effective skin
make IBR-ProPhyDerm an ideal
is skin whitening, lightening and
whitening and lightening.
companion for anyone struggling
evening of the skin tone. Although
Phytoene and phytofluene
with sensitive and discomforted
an ancient trend, a pale, flawless
— the colourless carotenoids
skin. Although efficacious, steroids
complexion is still associated with
— are the initial precursors of
often have unwanted side-effects,
beauty, youth, health, nobility
the carotenoid biosynthesis
which might include severe skin
and purity. Much effort has been
pathway and are found
irritation, thinning, discolouration,
invested by the cosmetic industry
in most carotenogenic
stretch marks and susceptibility
into making skin whitening easy,
organisms, including micro-
90
Efficacy Index (mean)
80 70
organisms, algae, fungi and
IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream
plants, wherein they act as
Hydrocortisine 1% cream
a shield against excessive radiation and environmental
60
stressors. These molecules are
50
devoid of colour in the visible
40
spectrum, only absorbing light
30
in the UV range, and have
20
been shown to preferentially
10
accumulate in the skin as a result
0
of a carotenoid-rich diet. Erythema
Papulovesicle
Papule
Oedema
Scaling
Itching
Change in Total Score * Lesion Size
An in vivo, placebo-
Figure 1: Efficacy index of IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream versus hydrocortisone (1%) cream).
controlled study evaluating the
to local infections and bruising.
effective and safe. A number of the
lightening effect of a cream
IBR-ProPhyDerm is a steroid-free
actives being used in skin whitening
comprising IBR-TCLC (colourless
preparation and, therefore, free
products can, however, be toxic or
tomato carotenoids) was done,
from these side-effects, having
irritating. So, finding a scientifically
resulting in a significant skin
been formulated with a patent-
proven, safe and active alternative
whitening effect after 42 days.
protected combination of active
is an ongoing challenge.
The pigmentation-reducing effect
botanical extracts.
Skin colour is primarily
of phytoene and phytofluene
determined by the concentration
is most likely derived from their
Clinical Evidence
of melanocytes in the skin, the
ability to inhibit melanin synthesis
This product has been clinically
levels of melanin within these
in melanocytes, coupled with
tested and proven to be equally
melanocytes and the distribution
additional protection against
as effective as hydrocortisone
of that melanin to surrounding
UV radiation and subsequent
(1%) for the relief of skin discomfort
keratinocytes. Hyperpigmentation
damage from free radicals
symptoms (such as itching) and
(uneven skin tone, dark spots,
and inflammation
aesthetic manifestations (such
freckles) is the darkening of skin
— representing a
as redness, flakiness and scaling)
caused by increased melanocyte
multifactorial
in a single-centre, randomized,
proliferation, melanin synthesis
way to control
double-blind, controlled study
and/or deposition. It is closely
pigmentation. PHM
34
For more information
Olga Ben-Chitrit, Fabien Havas, Liki von Oppen-Bezalel Contact Liki von Oppen-Bezalel VP Business Development and Marketing IBR Ltd lbezalel@ibrweb.com Tel. +49 30 8058 9698 www.ibrweb.com
spring 2011
strap
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36
spring 2011