PHM Spring 2011

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

SPRING EDITION 2011

The Nagoya Protocol

Implications for sourcing natural ingredients

Antiageing

Go natural with Echinacea

Technology Nanoparticle delivery systems

Consumer Trends and New Product Development

at s u ics e t 9 se me MH e s m co nd coin- sta

contents

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SPRING EDITION 2011

CONTENTS ... e u s s i s i h t n I

Guest Editorial

05 Beauty Foods:

Consumer Trends and New Product Development

Chris Lee

Event Preview

12 in-cosmetics: Ritorno a Milano Lucy Gillam

Beauty from Within

18 Beauty and the Yeast Morgane Maillard

Hair Care

22 Conditioning Polymers Courtney S. Fretz

30 12

Regulatory Affairs

26 New Rules on ABS María Julia Oliva

Natural Ingredients

28 Echinacea purpurea: Nature’s Antiageing Multitasker Marielle le Maire

Male Grooming

30 New Hope for the Hirsute Nick Gibbens

Technology 32 I’ve Got You …

Under My Skin

Malcolm Connah

Last Word

34 Skin Health and Beautification: Innovative Proprietary Approaches

Olga Ben-Chitrit, Fabien Havas and Liki von Oppen-Bezalel

34

18 22

2011 spring

3

staff Enhancing beauty from within with collagen peptides

Editorial

Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591

Sales

General Manager/Publisher Miranda Docherty miranda@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 122 Sales Executive Gill Healy gill@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 128 Sales Executive Heba Hassanatou heba@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 127

Art

Circulation

Circulation Manager info@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers.

Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details).

Via Media UK Limited Managing Director Simon Jones simon.jones@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131 Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591 Financial Controller Catherine Swainson catherine@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123

Art Director/Production Paul Andrews paul@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 126 Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day claire@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129

Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers.

Reprints of articles are available upon request.

Registered Office:

Beauty PeptanTM collagen peptides provides the amino-acids specific to skin health. It has clinically shown to help maintain youthfull, vibrant skin and fight skin aging process.

PeptanTM is flavorless, odorless, colorless and highly soluble, making it easy to use in your nutricosmetics.

Picture: istockphoto

Discover the benefits of PeptanTM collagen peptides from Rousselot, a world leader in manufacturing high quality ingredients for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, food and cosmetic industries.

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Rousselot Email: rhc@rousselot.com www.peptan.com

Via Media UK Ltd 22 Highacre Dorking Surrey RH4 3BF.

Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention.

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spring 2011

guest editorial

Beauty Foods

Beauty foods are the next big thing in the nutraceutical industry … and coming to a supermarket near you.

Consumer Trends and New Product Development

I

nterest in beauty foods

during the next few years.

products. Their hydration and

with a high concentration of

has steadily grown during

Euromonitor International’s

antiageing properties have

antioxidant lycopene in their

the last 5 years, leading

presentations always prove to

been demonstrated by clinical

skin display fewer furrows and

to the arrival of new

be incredibly insightful, and this

and in vitro studies and proven

wrinkles compared with those

products onto the market

one looks set to be no different.

to enhance skin health from

with a low concentration. The

that are complementary to the

Meanwhile, Veronique Fabien-

within. In fact, those recently

production of free radicals

traditional beauty industry. Only

Soulé from Rousselot will turn her

undertaken in France and

is a natural part of cellular

last month, I read a story about

attention to collagen peptides

Japan have shown that women

metabolism — destroying

a restaurant in London that is

in beauty foods. Bioactive

taking Peptan for between 8

bacteria and viruses — but they

offering age-conscious diners

peptides from collagen are

and 12 weeks had improved

can also damage DNA and

a menu of collagen-rich dishes

now starting to appear as new

skin moisture levels, suppleness

proteins in the skin, leading to

to help boost the elasticity and

ingredients in the formulation

and smoothness. The ingredient

premature ageing. Carotenoids

strength of their skin. It certainly

of innovative beauty food

not only reduced the number

such as lycopene can help to

makes sense that other industries

of micro-relief furrows but also

neutralize the free radicals,

are responding to market

prevented the formation of

helping to prevent harmful

demand and adapting their

deep wrinkles.

reactions in the skin. Dr Darvin’s

products accordingly; as we all

It seems the only hurdle that

presentation will look at the latest

know, cosmetics can enhance

the nutraceutical industry

studies on volunteers who have a

your body base but it’s what we

needs to overcome is the

diet rich in carotenoids and the

put into them that helps keep

scepticism from consumers

effects on their skin. His findings

skin looking healthy. More and

about the link between

will provide insightful material

more food and drink products

fortified foods and their

on which the nutraceutical

are being marketed as beauty

health benefits. Research by

industry can base new product

enhancing, and functional foods

Datamonitor found that more

development in the future.

are the next logical step for

than 75% of consumers were not

innovation in the nutraceutical

confident about the validity of

Foods won’t be the only subject

and cosmetics industries.

manufacturers’ claims about

up for debate at Vitafoods Europe.

Vitafoods Europe, which returns

the beauty benefits of products

Other topics include gut health

to the Geneva Palexpo from

such as beverages, dairy

and immunity, food allergy and

10–12 May 2011, will explore this

foods, dietary supplements

intolerance, heart health and

subject in depth during its 3 day

and chocolates. Despite this,

appetite control — something for

we have seen how the link

everyone working in the industry.

from Euromonitor International,

between taking vitamins and

You can see the full programme

Rousselot and Germany’s

health is now widely accepted,

at www.vitaoods.eu.com/

Universitaetsmedizin will share

so there is definitely an exciting

conference. I hope you can join

their knowledge and expertise of

opening for the nutraceutical

me in Geneva and I look forward

this market growth area.

industry and I look forward to

to what’s shaping up to be our

seeing new ingredients being

biggest event to date. PHM

conference. Representatives

Izabela Osowska, from

Chris Lee

Euromonitor International, will

introduced onto the market in

present the agency’s latest

the next few years.

findings on beauty foods,

Dr Maxim E. Darvin, from

exploring why they resonate with

Universitaetsmedizin, will be

consumers, evaluating the most

focusing on carotenoids and the

dynamic new products from

manifestation of skin ageing at

around the globe and reviewing

Vitafoods Europe. He will look

where the market is heading

specifically at how individuals

2011 spring

Although fascinating, Beauty

For more information

Chris Lee is Event Director at Vitafoods Europe and Finished Products Expo 2011. Visit www.vitafoods.eu.com or www.finishedproductsexpo.com for full exhibition details.

5

news X-Rite to Demonstrate New Colour Measurement Methods in-cosmetics attendees can view demonstrations and obtain information on the new offerings from X-Rite at Stand Q01 in the Fiera Milano Rho. Preshow information may be obtained from Andrea Vannacci, Sales Director South Europe (avannacci@ xrite.com), who is scheduled to give a presentation — Advanced Methods to Accurately Measure and Communicate the Colour of Cosmetics — at 3:30 pm on 30 March at the show as part of its Innovation Seminars. Cosmetics manufacturers may be particularly interested in X-Rite’s non-contact technology. X-Rite will show how its technology for measuring colour at a distance more closely represents the way the human eye perceives colour and, ultimately, how the consumer will view the finished product when it is demonstrated by sales associates in stores or used.

Tests currently done by a number of cosmetics manufacturers don’t accurately replicate what the eye sees because samples are placed and measured in cuvettes. When you add a transparent barrier between the sample and the instrument, it immediately imparts errors. X-Rite also will be unveiling NetProfiler 3, the latest iteration of the company’s software that provides customers with the ability to test and validate the measurement performance of their spectrophotometers; it is used on a regular basis by many industrial companies worldwide to remotely adjust and certify the performance of their spectrophotometers, ensuring that accurate and reliable colour data is used throughout the supply chain (www.xrite.com).

Custom Surfactants

For more 60 years, Hydrior (Stand V27) has specialized in the production of anionic surfactants and esterification products.

Located in Switzerland, the company also manufactures surfactants according to customer requirements. Hydrior’s polyglycerol ester products that, thanks to their marked substantivity, make skin feel fantastic, have achieved official approval from EcoCert. Depending on the type, they have a non-roughening to smoothing effect on the skin and regulate humidity. Because they do not denature any proteins, they do not irritate the skin. For natural cosmetics, they’re ideal ingredients for use as liquid and PEG-free emulsifiers, solubilizers or thickeners (www.hydrior.com).

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Just Natural Beauty Cremer Care (Stand T59) will launch a new product line of naturally derived functional ingredients and solutions for balanced and sustainable personal care products. Depending on their composition, the new CremerCOOR products can be used as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, viscosity enhancers, surfactants, moisturizers or even as antimicrobial agents. Thus, they help to promote the performance, stability and safety of personal care products. Natural ingredients are what today’s self-confident and nature-loving consumers are striving for. Cremer Care’s new CremerCOOR product range is mainly based on vegetable fatty acids that are esterified with glycerin, polyglycerins or other vegetable-based alcohols. “This also enables us to provide organic certification for many of our products,” emphasizes Patrick Knüppel, Cremer Oleo Business Unit Manager. “For formulators, our new product line provides an excellent alternative to synthetic components in beauty products, maintaining unchanged high quality standards.”

CremerCOOR will be manufactured at Cremer Care’s associated manufacturing site, Prignitzer Chemie in Wittenberge (Germany), which has already begun to expand its production capacity to meet customer demands. It is currently building a new state-of-the-art multipurpose production facility for fatty acid esters, incorporating the company’s extensive experience in the manufacture of fatty acids, glycerin and medium chain triglycerides (www.cremer-care.de).

Beauty from Echinacea, Superveggies and Grains This year, Symrise (Stand R40) is placing nature at the centre of its activities. At in-cosmetics, the Life Essentials business unit is focusing on an innovative botanical active ingredient with antiageing properties, as well as its new vegetable and grain extracts. These products are Symrise’s response to the growing demand for natural ingredients. SymFinity 1298, a 100% natural active antiageing substance that comes from Echinacea, strengthens skin cells’ resilience to stress, protects it from the environmental damage responsible for wrinkles and, additionally, prevents age spots and an uneven complexion. SymFinity 1298 has multifunctional benefits, including the potent activation of the cell’s life prolonging protein, SIRT-1, effective antiirritant efficacy and excellent antioxidant properties. It has shown convincing results in human ex vivo studies. The company has also harnessed the beneficial properties of seven vegetables — artichoke, asparagus, beet, broccoli, pumpkin, spinach and zucchini — for use in cosmetic products. These Actipone “superveggies” have a proven antioxidative effect. And, Symrise has expanded its range of Extrapone, the successful series of botanical extracts, by adding a new collection of healthy grains. The portfolio now includes traditional “supergrains” such as amaranth, quinoa and khorasan wheat that have long been used for their care-giving properties. In addition to these brand new ingredients, Symrise will attract visitors with other previously launched products, including SymSitive 1609, an active ingredient that soothes sensory skin irritations, SymPeptide 226EL, which strengthens eyelashes and makes them appear longer and fuller, SymHelios 1031, which protects the skin against the long-term effects of UVB exposure and environmental pollutants, SymMollient S and L, highly branched ester emollients with excellent skin feel and proven moisturizing benefits, and Frescolat ML nat., a natural active ingredient that’s alcohol/menthol-free and provides a long-term skin cooling effect (www.symrise.com).

Quality Without Compromise Faravelli Group, a long-established distributor of high quality raw materials for the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and food sectors, is proud to announce its participation at in-cosmetics 2011. Using the slogan, “Fall in love with us,” and with a glamorous and eyecatching booth (P60), Faravelli Group will present its large range of products specifically dedicated to the cosmetic sector, including natural thickeners, preservatives, humectants, minerals and active ingredients (antioxidant, moisturizing, antiageing, soothing, energizing, firming, suncare, hair care, anticellulite, bust-enhancing, hair styling agents, etc.). In addition, an interesting combination of nutraceutical active ingredients will be presented and explained during the show.

Faravelli’s stand, located in front of Provital’s booth, a major supplier of natural active ingredients will be shared with two other suppliers, CP Kelco and Gfn Selco. Faravelli Group is an international company, with premises in Milan, Hamburg, Prague and Shanghai (www.faravelli.it).

spring 2011

Skin Care

Beautiful skin is demanding. O Our care pampers it w with luxurious textures.

Luvigel Star The non-ionic rheology modier with high salt compatibility � good sensory properties for elegant skin feel � excellent thickening performance �

BASF SE, 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany www.beautycare.basf.com, Tel: + 800 2273 4444

news Clinical Testing Services AMA Laboratories Inc. (Stand U51), founded in 1984, is a clinical testing laboratory devoted to the evaluation of finished cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients such as sunscreens, wrinkle treatments, moisturizers, hair products, etc. We test these products for efficacy in both in vivo and in vitro environments. We are strategically located just a short drive north of New York City, in a modern facility that occupies approximately 22,000 ft2. AMA Laboratories, Inc. provides claim substantiation for major corporations, regulatory organizations and TV networks. Our forte is the use of novel methodologies, biophysical measurements and instrumental data combined with a unique system of scientific photography (PhotoGrammetrix) to provide you with well-controlled, statistically valid studies to support your products in the market place (www.amalabs.com).

Water Retention and Smoother Skin Lipotec introduces hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with a high water retaining capacity that provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect and immediate wrinkle reduction. On show in Milan (Stand H40), hyadisine is an exopolysaccharide that’s obtained using an optimized bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez (Brittany, France); it’s rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronic acid. The excellent moisturizing and immediate antiwrinkle properties of hyadisine, when tested in vivo, demonstrated the efficacy of this bioactive ingredient by improving skin appearance and reducing lines in only 2 hours. hyadisine is part of Lipotec’s new brand, Biointec, which, based on non-genetically modified organisms and supported by advanced biotechnological technologies, allows for the regular and sustainable production of active ingredients with proven cosmetic efficacy (www.lipotec.com).

New Aqueous Products Earthoil Plantations (Stand M79) will be unveiling its aqueous product range, which includes Earthoil Waters and new Eartharome and Treattarome items, at this year’s in‑cosmetics. A unique range of certified organic products, Earthoil Waters deliver a high concentration of essential oil in water to impart a strong, authentic fragrance to a variety of cosmetic applications. The company will also highlight its ethically sourced rose hip oil, from Southern Africa, which has been shown to offer multiple skincare benefits in rejuvenating fatigued or damaged skin.

Created using a novel, proprietary method, Earthoil Waters are unique, organic essential oil products that meet the new cosmos standards for a 100% organic product.

They are completely solubilized in pure, natural mountain spring water to deliver an essential oil concentration more potent in aroma than conventional hydrosols. As a result, manufacturers can be confident that their products capture the authentic fragrance profile that consumers crave.

By comparison with hydrosols, the greater concentration of oils solubilized in the development of Earthoil Waters ensures increased stability, facilitating subsequent product benefits. This relatively high essential oil concentration can, with certain oils, also enhance its stability by acting as a natural preservative, a clear benefit for producers looking to reduce the use of synthetic preservatives. Plus, whereas Earthoil Waters are themselves organic, the process used in their production can be applied to any essential oil. As the desire for products containing organic, ethically sourced ingredients continues to grow, more and more formulators are welcoming traceable raw materials to help them secure their position in the competitive marketplace.

To support product developers in these aims, Earthoil will also be featuring its organically certified rose hip oil from Lesotho. In keeping with the ethical values of the company, the collection of rose hips provides a welcome source of income for many of Lesotho’s poorest villages (www.treatt.com).

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appealing to Your Sense … of Responsibility Beauty, luxury and care: the world of cosmetics is all about positive sensory experiences. But, lasting market success calls for more, because today’s consumers are also aware of the environmental, social and ethical impact of the products they buy. And major retailers expect transparency about their suppliers’ sustainability credentials. Evonik is dedicated to enabling you to meet these demands. Drawing on a tradition of quality and creativity coupled with a deep sense of responsibility, we work with clients to see product development through to completion — from concept to realization and documentation. And we’re putting our sense of responsibility into action. With forward-looking concepts, such as enzymatic and polyglyceryl esterification and biotech methods, we significantly reduce energy consumption, cut down emissions and wastewater, and ensure the responsible use of natural feedstocks with sophisticated documentation. The result: our clients can make verifiable claims and appeal to consumers’ personal care needs as well as their sense of environmental responsibility (www.evonik.com).

Beauty from Northern Waters Aqua Bio Technology (Stand M28) will launch a novel marine ingredient, Aquabeautine XL, at incosmetics. This patented product is a protein solution derived from the hatching fluid of salmon roe or “red caviar.” It contains a unique protease, zonase, which, unlike similar enzymes, is highly stable (non-selfdegrading) and gently removes dead skin cells without affecting living cells.

As such, Aquabeautine XL is a biospecific exfoliant proven to render comparable results with common hydroxyl acids without skin irritation. Aquabeautine XL also delivers moisturizing and antiageing effects. Results are supported by both in vitro and in vivo data. Designed by nature, Aquabeautine XL is 100% natural and sustainable. Colourless, odourless and active in a broad pH range, it is easy to formulate and is suitable for various cosmetics applications, even for the most sensitive skins. The effects of Aquabeautine XL on human skin were discovered by coincidence. Salmon hatchery workers reported that their hands became soft and smooth after sorting salmon eggs despite the prolonged exposure to cold water. This piqued the interest of scientists at the University of Bergen and led to the discovery of the zonase enzyme, which helps the larva to get out of its eggshell by digesting this tough, fibrous protein structure, but without harming the delicate baby fish. In humans, zonase attacks specific cell binding sites in the stratum corneum, which is similar to its natural substrate, leaving the living skin cells untouched (www.aquabiotechnology.com).

spring 2011

Skin Hydration Instrument from Delfin Delfin Technologies (Stand S92) will launch the MoistureMeterSC Compact, a novel instrument for measuring skin hydration values, at in-cosmetics. The measurement of skin surface hydration at the stratum corneum level is one of the most used measurements in the personal care industry, especially for claims substantiation work. Delfin’s new MoistureMeterSC Compact combines Delfin’s proven and protected measurement technology with ease-of-use and its well established wireless technology. With this new product, Delfin is establishing a new level of reliability and convenience for skin hydration measurements. The MoistureMeterSC Compact’s built in pressure sensor and the use of the stratum corneum’s dry layer thickness during the measurement add to the accuracy and sensitivity of the instrument, which also features wireless data collection from the unit to Delfin’s existing data collection program. This new addition to Delfin’s product portfolio brings formulators and researchers a novel scientific tool for practical and reliable skin surface hydration measurements. Delfin Technologies is a leading provider of scientifically validated portable skin research instruments. Other Delfin products include the VapoMeter for TEWL measurements, the MoistureMeterD for tissue water change measurements in the deeper layers of the skin and subcutis, the SkinGlossMeter for skin gloss measurements and the SebumScale for skin sebum excretion measurements. Delfin has customers in more than 30 countries, ranging from universities and hospitals to personal care, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical companies and testing laboratories (www.delfintech.com).

Clariant Launches New Youth Concepts Clariant’s new “youth concept” offers sophisticated answers to the most common beauty and lifestyle issues affecting this market. It enables solutions to acne, oily skin, hydration, dandruff and sun protection to be integrated into skin and hair care formulations, whereas formulators can give decorative cosmetics a level of shine and brightness to reflect the joie de vivre of young people. The concept covers a broad range of ingredients suited to the sensitivity of young skin, including those with natural origins, for optimal mildness and skin-friendliness. As a result, the tactile feel, appearance and effectiveness of skin and hair products, as well as decorative cosmetics, can be maximized to leave a refreshed sensation on skin and hair, and a naturally appealing radiance. Highlights from the latest product innovations at Clariant’s in-cosmetics 2011 booth (N40) include vegetable-based products, shine-enhancing emulsifiers, rheology modifiers that provide superb skin feel and sulfate-free rinse-off agents. They address young people’s concerns about the use of “healthier” products with fewer or no preservatives, more natural ingredients and less environmental impact. “During their teenage and young adult years, both boys and girls have very specific requirements for their hair and skin,” comments Anne Timm, Head of Sales and Application, Personal Care EMEA at Clariant. “Our solutions create straightforward possibilities to develop formulations that tackle today’s issues and lay a foundation for healthier skin and hair in the future.” Visit www.clariant.com for more information.

The innovision.

Raw materials, ideas, laboratory formulations and claims.

InCosmetics - Milan - March, 29/31.

Visit us at Stand

E40 to find new concepts and creative projects.

2011 springVia M. F. Quintiliano, 30 - 20138 MILANO (ITALY) - www.prodottigianni.com

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news Novel Extracts and Applications At in-cosmetics this year, Indena (Stand Q39) is launching Xilogel, a well-characterized tamarind polysaccharide with a molecular weight of 650,000 Da. With a structure that’s similar to hyaluronic acid and the capacity to complex water, it is the ideal candidate for deep hydration products. A clinical assessment and trial results confirming the ingredient’s strong hydrating and antiageing properties will be presented at the show (30 March, 12:00–12:30 pm, innovation seminar 2). Also available is Omegablue, a bilberry oil obtained by clean CO2 extraction from bilberry seeds. The total fatty acid content is more than 80% and offers a uniquely balanced ratio of polyunsaturated omega-6/omega-3 fatty acids. The major components are linoleic and alpha linolenic acid. Linoleic acid is involved in cutaneous hydration, exerting a plastic-structural role for the skin, whereas alpha linolenic acid has major anti-inflammatory properties. The naturalness of Omegablue, its unique fatty acid composition, its restructuring skin and hair functions and its pleasant sensorial feel qualify it as an innovative cosmetic active ingredient for skin and hair care. In addition, Indena is keen to confirm the novel application of zanthalene, a CO2 extract from the Chinese spice, Sichuan pepper. Since its launch last year, the immediate lifting effect of zanthalene has been of interest to formulators. The application has now been presented in Asia and USA and a peerreviewed journal publication is currently available (www.indena.it).

NaTrue Certification for Dusoran and Cholesterol NF Dishman Netherlands has obtained the NaTrue label for natural-like ingredients for its cosmetic raw material products, Dusoran and Cholesterol NF. A company spokesperson said: “We are one of the first companies in Europe to obtain NATRUE certification for these cosmetic raw materials, which was obtained after having been audited at our production site in Veenendaal (the Netherlands).” NaTrue is an International Association of Natural and Organic Cosmetic manufacturers who aim to safeguard the highest possible standards for natural cosmetics and their ingredients in Europe, in the United States and, in the longerterm, also in Asia (www.natrue.org).

Cholesterol NF: Cholesterol exists naturally in the human skin. It offers natural protection against external factors such as dehydration and it regulates the transdermal transport of molecules. The use of cholesterol enhances the skin’s natural barrier function; it both moisturizes and contributes to the health of the skin.

Crèmes and lotions benefit from a shiny surface as cholesterol forms liquid crystals during formulation. As such, Cholesterol NF offers moisturizing, emulsification and emollient properties.

Dusoran is ideal for hair colourants, conditioners, treatments (relaxing and perming) and two-in-one combination products, etc. Its key product benefits for haircare are volume, gloss, prevention (premature oily hair), protection (head irritation) and excellent sensory properties. In skincare applications, Dusoran can be used in both facial and body care products, offering the following benefits: moisture control, controlled transdermal transport, protection, convenience and improved sensory characteristics (www.dishman-netherlands.com).

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Naturally Made for Immediate Beauty At this year’s in-cosmetics, Frutarom (Stand R28) will present its red microalgae cosmetic ingredient, Alguard. Produced using a truly ‘green’ production process, Alguard is backed by clinical data and offers an immediate skin appearance effect just one hour after its first application. The secret of Alguard stems from the oceans and how red microalgae have adapted to the extreme conditions of the ocean tidal zone. A negatively charged polysaccharide released to the algae’s surroundings forms a bioactive protective layer, shielding the algae from harsh elements. When applied to the skin, Alguard forms an ‘active shield’ and acts as a triple-guard solution for a variety of cosmetic applications: first as an ‘insult guard,’ directly protecting the skin from irritants and oxidative damage; second as a ‘sun guard’ to protect the skin’s immune cells from UVB radiation; and third, as a ‘microguard,’ countering bacterial adhesion.

A study done at the Israeli Skin Research Institute shows that Alguard can also visibly enhance skin appearance directly after use. In this study, 10 women applied a small amount of Alguard to one half of their faces and a control cream to the other half. They were then monitored for one hour in a controlled environment. A clear reduction in fine line length and depth, and a 24% average reduction in skin roughness were observed on the Alguard-treated areas. Alguard is physically purified from porphyridium sp. microalgae cultivated in artificial seawater while utilizing only natural sunlight, water and nutrients. Its production is green, natural and solventfree. The clear hydrogel appearance and stability over a wide range of temperature and pH values make Alguard suitable for almost any formulation and offer advantages compared with algal extracts and biomass concentrates (www.frutarom.com).

Performance Products from Huntsman The Performance Products division of Huntsman Corporation has announced that its personal care team will exhibit at in-cosmetics. A key player in the beauty and personal care market, Huntsman develops specialty chemicals that the world’s biggest cosmetic companies can rely on to create well-known, top selling beauty and well-being products. Masters in molecular science, Huntsman produces a wide range of raw materials for the cosmetics, beauty and personal care markets, including foam boosters and pearlizing additives for use in bath foams and cleansing products, solvent-free carbonates for use in skin and suncare systems, emulsifiers to stabilize high water content lotions, ointments and creams, polymeric additives and silicone-free agents for use in detangling, protecting and nourishing hair conditioners, and primary anionic surfactants and specialty surfactant blends for use in mild and salon formula shampoos. Helping formulators to meet the very latest market trends and drive more value from their brands, ingredients from Huntsman are renowned for the special effects they can bring to everyday essentials such as shampoos, conditioners, toothpastes, shower gels, face creams, body lotions and deodorants. To find out more about Huntsman’s full range of performance products, visit Stand M16 (www.huntsman.com).

spring 2011

Managing Epidermal Melanin Cross-Talk Pigmentation disorders are a major concern for many populations (Asian, African, Latin-American).

Some benign pigmentation disorders are stimulated by ageing (freckles, lentigines and melasma) and/or stress (inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Sederma is proud to offer a new solution for people wishing to reduce pigmentation irregularities or lighten their skin complexion. Based on a botanical, Wonderlight acts on both melanocytes and their associated keratinocytes to help lessen pigmentation disorders. It reduces epidermal melanin cross-talk and blocks the signalling pathways involved in melanin synthesis. Wonderlight exhibits a stronger effect on hyperpigmented areas and equalizes skin pigmentation to make them less visible. The ability of Wonderlight to inhibit the UV-induced secretion of GM-CSF (a melanocyte stimulator) has been demonstrated in vitro. The concept was validated on living human skin cultures (phototype III) in which the UVAB-induced twofold increase in the number of melanocytes was totally inhibited in the presence of Wonderlight. Two clinical trials conducted on Asian volunteers with classical pigment disorders (lentigines, ephelides, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) confirmed the melanogenesis reducing activity of Wonderlight on these lesions (www.sederma.fr).

Formulation-Enhancing Additives

The Dow Chemical Company, a leading supplier of innovative specialty additives and technologies for the personal care and cosmetics industries, will exhibit at in-cosmetics. At Stand C40, Dow will feature a broad range of products from the Dow Personal Care, Dow Microbial Control and ANGUS Chemical Company business portfolios. Tradeshow visitors will learn how Dow businesses provide distinct advantages to numerous segments within the industry. From eye products and colour cosmetics to conditioners, shampoos and styling products, as well as skincare, bath, shower and sun protection products, Dow has technologies that contribute to and enhance the performance of many formulations. At this year’s event, Dow Personal Care will highlight a novel conditioning technology for hair care applications. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers offer exceptional benefits without the use of silicone in shampoos. The performance benefits offered by EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers also represent a benefit to formulators looking to address the issue of build-up or foam stability as they develop new formulations. Dow Microbial Control will promote its diverse portfolio of preservatives made up of established and approved solutions. Dow Microbial Control is a preservation leader with options available for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care formulations, including a wide range of paraben-free and aldehyde-free products.

With its globally approved broad-spectrum NEOLONE and KATHON preservatives, Dow Microbial Control is uniquely positioned to offer high performing, sustainable actives and formulations designed for personal care and cosmetic applications. ANGUS Chemical Company has developed application testing that clearly demonstrates the exceptional performance benefits of AMP-ULTRA PC amino alcohol in a range of hair styling formulations. Today’s consumers are on the go and expect their hair products to keep up with their lifestyle.

ANGUS will highlight personal care neutralizers available to maximize the performance of hair styling products (www.dow.com).

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event preview

Milan prepares to welcome the world’s cosmetic industry in March 2011

T

he Italian cosmetics

in-cosmetics Exhibition

workshops and marketing

and maintenance of Product

and toiletries

Director, Lucy Gillam,

trends presentations, whilst

Information Files (PIF) and

industry is booming.

commented: “Last year’s show

the ever-popular in-focus and

Cosmetic Product Safety

Worth a reported

was the biggest event ever,

the Innovation Zone will once

Reports (CPSRs). China is also

€9.1 billion, it is the

so we certainly set the bar

again be key features on the

a key issue on the regulatory

third biggest in Europe, behind

very high, but we’re extremely

exhibition floor.

agenda of cosmetics

only France (€12.8 billion) and

confident that we will match

Germany (€10.5 billion). And

if not exceed expectations for

with Milan’s reputation as the

companies. Last summer, the SFDA published several

the Milan show. Our exhibitors

More Than an Exhibition

business fashion capital of the

are, as always, of the highest

A programme of Regulatory

in a move to reorganize

continent, it’s not surprising that

quality and the educational

Seminars will provide delegates

the supervision of cosmetic

after 7 years of being away, the

programme is certainly

with thoughtful, educational

products in the country. Dr

city has been chosen to host

shaping up well. We have a

insights into the movement

Alain Khaiat, President of

the next edition of in-cosmetics,

really compelling line up of

of legislation, including the

Seers Consulting and Vice-

the leading personal care

speakers already confirmed to

current impact of future

President of the ASEAN

ingredients exhibition.

present on some of the hottest

regulatory amendments

Cosmetic Association, and a

Promising to be as exciting as

topics, which will no doubt

in Europe and China. Dr

panel of key industry experts,

last year’s record-breaking event

provoke some lively debate

Annelie Struessman, Technical

will aim to shed some light on

in Paris, the 2011 show will take

amongst visitors.” Dubbed a

Director of CONUSBAT, and

this new legislative framework

place in March (29–31) at the

three-day ‘training centre’

experts from Beiersdorf and

during the “Chinese Cosmetic

Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre

for the industry, the show’s

Henkel will lead the first

Regulations” seminar on 29

in the heart of the city. Already

educational programme

session — Safety Assessment

March from 14:30 to18:00.

the largest ever show in terms

will offer a wide range of

for Cosmetics in Europe —

of floor space, the exhibition

presentations, workshops

taking place on 29 March from

Scientific Seminars at this

will play host to more than 500

and features to enhance

09:30 to 13:30. The seminar

year’s show, delving into

world-class suppliers of new and

visitors’ commercial, scientific

will outline the challenges

two of the industry’s most

innovative cosmetic ingredients

and technical knowledge.

and legal requirements

topical issues: “Skin Ageing:

and services, as well as leading

Regulatory, scientific and

for safety assessment and

From Functional Impairment

testing laboratories, software

innovation seminars will take

provide practical guidelines

to Cosmetic Solutions” and

providers, industry associations

place alongside formulation

for the design, preparation

“Nanotechnologies and

and publishing houses.

Highlighting the importance of the event, all stand space for 2011 was booked on site at last year’s event; however, the organizers have expanded the area to meet the demands of eager exhibitors, signalling a recovered and revived outlook for the cosmetics industry following last year’s recession.

Industry heavyweights such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia will naturally have a presence alongside smaller firsttime exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the home soil location.

12

All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event; we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure that this is a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.

guidelines and measures

There will be a series of

Biotechnologies in Cosmetics.”

Organized by CEC Editore and HPC Magazine, respectively, the seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in the above areas.

On 30 March at 09:30 –13:30, the skin ageing seminar will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin ageing. The most recent methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of antiageing treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes.

Other areas to be covered

spring 2011

World Class Exhibitors

Among the 500+ exhibitors set to showcase their latest innovations and scientific developments to the visitors is Arch Personal Care Products (Stand F50). The company will be highlighting its patent-pending Lotus Zymbiozome Fermentum (Assigned INCI Name: Water [and] Lotus japonicus Symbiosome Extract), an innovative ingredient that, when formulated into skincare products, demonstrates unique effects in controlling skin colour and tone. In addition, the company will be showcasing NAB Rhodiola Extract (Assigned INCI Name: Water [and] Pentylene Glycol and Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract), an exciting, innovative new ingredient for skincare products offering ‘adaptogenic thermal stress protection.’ Rhodiola Rosea is a robust plant native to the arctic regions of Tibet and Eastern Siberia. The plant contains protective properties, giving it the ability to survive, adapt and even thrive in such conditions. NAB Rhodiola Extract assists the skin in adapting and reducing the stress incurred when it is exposed to varying temperature fluctuations.

Also showcasing a number of brand new product launches will be BASF (Stand L40). The company’s product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colourants, stabilizers and surfactants. At in-cosmetics 2011, BASF will be presenting Tinosorb S Aqua, a new UV filter for the water phase, with the same high-tech broad-spectrum technology as Tinosorb S. In addition, the company will be highlighting its MultiReflections Soft Sparkle, pigments, which provide elegant colour travel and sophisticated soft sparkle effects.

Burgundy Botanical Extracts (Stand F74) will showcase Botany Care. The range offers the high quality botanical extract, Botany, and purified extracts (BotanySelect): Aloe Vera, Centella, Hibiscus, Licorice, Harpagophytum p., Chamomilla, enriched organic acids from flowers or fruits, Nettle and Echinacea with studies of efficiency. All the ingredients are supported by accurate scientific research and documentation, and are designed to bring visible benefits.

On Stand L30, Cognis will be highlighting its Lamesoft Care products. Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant-based skin and hair care applications. Its micronized lipid system offers excellent skin and hair conditioning properties. Particularly strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. Lamesoft Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleized appearance is desired. Owing to its ether-based lipids, Lamesoft Care can be used in a wide pH range (4–11) and, therefore, in all kinds of body rinse off applications.

With its Dermosoft range, Dr Straetmans (Stand L79) is a pioneer in using multifunctional additives with high performance antimicrobial properties to formulate mild and safe cosmetics. With decades of experience in the preservation of all kinds of products, a tailor made solution is available for every product concept.

Dr Straetmans accompanies customers at each stage of product development, from concept through evaluation to finished product. Challenge tests are offered to ensure the success of formulation projects with customers. The company’s Dermofeel range will also be on show on the stand.

™

A product line of Frutarom Health ®

®

®

Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. – Tel. +41 44 782 64 64 – Email: switzerland@frutarom.com Frutarom Belgium NV – Tel. +32 52 319 534 – Email: belgium@frutarom.com

2011 spring

Frutarom Germany GmbH – Tel. +49 221 454 6230 – Email: germany@frutarom.com Frutarom Ltd. Israel – Tel. +972 4 846 2462 – Email: FandF@il.frutarom.com

Frutarom USA Incorporated – Tel. +1 201 861 9500 – Email: info@us.frutarom.com

13

event preview Evonik (Stand M40) will be highlighting its comprehensive range of products, which includes conditioners and thickeners for hair care products, emulsifiers for creams and lotions, secondary surfactants, emollients and active ingredients.

Amongst those on show will be the SK-influx range of skin identical lipid concentrates and Skinmimics, a unique blend of new long chain ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines, which are ideal for mature skin as they provide protection, regeneration and prevention.

Fenchem Biotek (Stand A60) is a science-based company that specializes in developing and manufacturing a wide range of active ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products. The company has recently launched a series of innovative products, including HyaMax Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocovet Tocopherols, CellMotive Coenzyme Q10 and a Vitamin C series. Fenchem has also invested in botanical extracts, such as G-Tea Green tea Extract, Grapurit Grape Seed Extract, Ginktone and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.

Induchem AG’s (Stand E56) business is based on carrier systems and active ingredients. Its product portfolio consists mainly of exfoliants, suncare products and additives. Amongst the ranges on show will be Uniprotect PT-3, a bioactive complex for the protection of skin proteins, Unirepair T-43, a bioactive complex to counteract environmental skin damage and Unisooth EG-28, a synergistic complex to inhibit skin irritation.

KCI (Stand P34) specializes in raw materials for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, sunscreen cream, face moisturizer and nail polish. At in-cosmetics 2011, the company will be highlighting its Cationic Surfactants, Amine Amide series, Polyquat and Guarquat series and its highly qualified resin for nail lacquer.

Lubrizol (Stand K40), with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, is a leading manufacturer of advanced specialty chemicals for personal care products. in-cosmetics 2011 will see the company highlight its Carbopol range of acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high-quality derivatives, lanoline and lanoline derivatives, formulation additives such as non-ionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters.

Zahra Rosewater Company (Stand C78) specializes in the production of 100% pure and hydrodistilled essential oils and hydrolytes that are widely used for the manufacture of cosmetics, fragrances and pharmaceuticals. The company is a leading grower, distiller and exporter of organic Damask roses, focusing mainly on the production of high-quality rose products that bear the British Soil Association organic seal of approval. At in-cosmetics, the company will be showcasing its Organic Rosewater and Organic Rose Oil.

14

include optimal dermal delivery

Worldwide Safety Department

for antiageing actives and

at L’Oréal, Dr Joachim Kreysa,

the latest innovation in actives

Unit Head of ECVAM (European

and formulation. Among those

Centre for the Validation

presenting will be Luigi Rigano

of Alternative Methods)

from Studio Rigano, Anthony

European Commission, DG

Rawlings from AVR Consulting,

Joint Research Centre, Dr Steffi

Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the

Friedrichs, Director General at

San Gallicano Dermatological

the Nanotechnology Industries

Institute in Italy, Prof. Dr Johann

Association, Dr Florian Schellauf,

Wiechers from JW Solutions

Issue Manager Technical and

and Stefano Manfredini from

Regulatory Affairs for COLIPA

the Dipartimento di Scienze

and Dr Fred Zuelli Researcher at

Farmaceutiche at the University

Mibelle AG Biochemistry.

of Ferrara, Italy.

Also on 30 March, from

The Formulation Workshops will provide lively, interactive

14:00 –18:00, “Nanotechnologies

and controversial insights into

and Biotechnologies in

the challenges and issues that

Cosmetics” will delve into

affect cosmetic formulators.

the practical applications

Prof. Dr Johann Wiechers from

and opportunities, as well

JW Solutions will present “From

as the safety, of cosmetic

Active Ingredient to Active

nanoformulations. Consumer

Formulation in 5 Simple Steps”

perception and industry

on 29 March (14:00–18:00).

response to the techniques

Delegates attending the

will be examined, along with

workshop will be given guidance

the regulatory framework in

on how to select the best actives

Europe. Finally, the seminar

for optimum skin delivery,

will take a look at whether

identify the size of the delivery

biotechnology represents an

gap from the required minimum

alternative to animal model

effective concentration and

testing. Experts confirmed to

select the most appropriate skin

present include Dr Gerhard J.

delivery system. Attendees will

Nohynek, Scientific Head of the

also learn how to design the

spring 2011

■ SElEniuM YEAST For nuTricoSMETic APPlicATionS

Beauty from Within ■ Yeast based ingredient - Natural origin ■ Highly Bioavailable and Safe Selenium ■ Beauty claims approved by EFSA Maintenance of normal HAIR Maintenance of normal NAILS Protection from oxidative damage

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event preview right formulation to deliver those

information and knowledge

actives and perform a clinical

with a highly captive audience.

trial to assess the product’s

Visitors can choose from 44

efficacy. Judi Beerling from

sessions covering a wide

Organic Monitor will then look at

variety of topics, including

“Emulsifiers and Surfactants: The

the latest developments

Natural Options” on 31 March

in antiageing treatments,

(09:30–13:00). The new workshop

nature-based emulsifiers and

will act as a practical guide for

ethically sourced ingredients.

companies looking to formulate

A new online community

natural and organic personal

tool — CONNECT — will also

care products with alternatives

be introduced for the Milan

to synthetic emulsifiers and

show. It provides exhibitors and

surfactants. With a growing

preregistered visitors with a

number of companies trying to avoid SLS/SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural and organic alternatives. However, what options are available?

What are the associated technical and formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective and what are the related safety issues?

The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier, Beraca, attracts more than two thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing,

in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers, enabling visitors to discover new, innovative products and services whilst boosting their business, scientific and technical knowledge.

diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated e-mail system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show.

Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director, concluded: “There’s certainly a real buzz surrounding the 2011 event. All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event, so we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure this is, once again, a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.” in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers, enabling visitors

formulation, industrial processes

visitors to quickly identify

International will reveal the

to discover new, innovative

and packaging. Showcasing

the very latest launches and

latest ingredients and beauty

products and services whilst

a range of innovative

provide ideas for their next NPD

trends whilst the founders of

boosting their business, scientific

ecodesigned product

or marketing campaign.

niche brands, Bulldog and

and technical knowledge.

Davina Peace, will share

Attendees will benefit from all

prototypes, the feature will seek

A wealth of facts and figures,

to define the core principles of

case studies and advice will

their secrets for success in live

the major players being under

sustainable development in the

be presented at the highly

interviews. How cosmetics

one roof and meeting with

beauty industry.

popular Marketing Trends

companies can draw inspiration

experts whilst discussing the

Presentations at the show this

from other industries such as

next big trends in the growing

Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be

year. Conducted by renowned

professional hair care and

personal care market. PHM

full to bursting with innovation

international market research

cosmetic surgery, as well as

and inspiration, with the key

companies, brands and

changes in online and offline

theme in the end-product

consultancies, the sessions

shopping behaviour, will also be

section being antiageing.

are aimed at sparking off new

among the subjects discussed.

At in-cosmetics 2011, visitors

marketing ideas for companies

will be able to discover the

keen to set themselves

an opportunity for suppliers

latest finished products on the

apart from the competition.

to highlight the very latest

market from Europe, Asia, USA

Sustainability, green chemistry

ingredients and formulation

and Latin America, sourced

and ethical sourcing will feature

techniques they are currently

by Mintel’s team of beauty

prominently in the programme,

pioneering. Traditionally

trend spotters. In addition, the

with two roundtables and a

extremely popular with visitors,

feature will also house some of

presentation from Organic

the seminars last 30 minutes

the latest ingredient launches

Monitor already confirmed.

and provide a platform for

from exhibitors, enabling

Kline and Euromonitor

companies to share their

As ever, this year’s Innovation

16

Innovation Seminars provide

For more information

For further details about in-cosmetics, visit www.in-cosmetics.com. To get the latest news on personal care ingredients, follow in-cosmetics on Twitter at www.twitter.com/ incosmetics or to join the debate with fellow industry experts, go to www.in-cosmetics.com/linkedin.

For all travel information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/travel.

spring 2011

Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31

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• Increases skin stem cell vitality • Boosts epidermal regeneration • Improves skin barrier function

PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose has been carefully developed to protect skin stem cells against environmental stress factors and to improve their functions. As a consequence, it ensures improved skin condition.

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

beauty from within

Yeast-based minerals and vitamins for nutricosmetics.

and the Yeast

W

ithout

of food supplements promoting

immune defence enhancement

alopecia and thin hair have been

knowing it,

skin (antioxidant, antiageing, sun

and viral disease protection.

observed, and the administration

yeast has

protection), nail or hair ‘beauty

Most recently, selenium, which

of selenium was able to remediate

been part of

from within’ in a natural way.

already bears an antioxidant

these symptoms.

our diet since

Article 13.1 health claim, has

A recent publication reported

been granted additional ‘beauty

that selenoproteins are involved

claims’ concerning hair and nails

in keratinocyte function and

as the living organism responsible

Selenium Yeast: A Key Candidate for Beauty Supplements

(Contributes to the Maintenance

cutaneous development, and

for fermentation, for making holes

Selenium is an essential trace

of Normal Hair and Contributes to

that the absence of these

in bread and for transforming

element. It is incorporated in

the Maintenance of Normal Nails).1

selenoproteins leads to severe

sugar into alcohol. Nowadays, the

certain proteins in the form of

Selenium represents an important

abnormalities in skin and hair.2

nutritional benefits of yeast are

selenoamino acids, most of

ingredient for nutricosmetic

Trace element supplementation

well recognized: vegans rely on

which are involved in essential

applications (antiageing, anti-UV,

using copper, zinc and selenium

yeast as a source of protein and

(antioxidant) functions. Selenium

hair and nail health). Selenium’s

also showed a beneficial effect

essential nutrients, and brewer’s

is important for the function

hair and nail benefits are based

on wound healing, along with

yeast is well-known for its hair

of many organs and dietary

on the observation that selenium

a decrease in skin protein

health and beauty benefits. This is

selenium intake has many health

deficiency results in impaired

catabolism. Moreover, selenium is

essentially linked to the fact that

benefits, such as cardiovascular

nail and hair health. In patients

known to protect the skin against

brewer’s yeast (Saccharomyces

health prevention, cancer risk

receiving total parenteral nutrition

UV radiation. A human study

cerevisiae) is an important source

reduction, cognitive function

lacking selenium, troubles such as

has shown the sun-protection

of the B complex vitamins that

support, fertility enhancement,

white nail beds, pseudoalbinism,

potential of an antioxidant

the early days of civilization; but, it took some time to identify yeast

are necessary for hair growth and maintaining healthy hair. Today, thanks to the development of yeast-based minerals such as selenium and zinc, and vitamins, the emerging nutricosmetics

Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

natural image of yeast. Backed by recent Article 13.1 beauty-related

Vitamin B8 (biotin)

Food Product

Content

Food Product

Content

Food Product

Content

Baker’s yeast Brewer’s yeast Liver

5.5 mg/100 g 4.0 mg/100 g 3–5 mg/100 g

38 mg/100 g 37 mg/100 g 17 mg/100 g

Baker’s yeast Brewer’s yeast Liver Oatmeal

0.4 mg/100 g 0.09 mg/100 g 0.05 mg/100 g 0.02 mg/100 g

Raw mushrooms Broccoli and avocado

0.5 mg/100 g 0.2 mg/100 g

Brewer’s yeast Baker’s yeast Peanuts (grilled and salted)/peanut butter Liver

Mushrooms and brown rice

0.01 mg/100 g

market can capitalize on the health-promoting power and

Vitamin B3 (niacin)

12–20 mg/100 g

health claims, these ingredients can augment the development

18

Table I: Main dietary sources of vitamin B2, B3 and B8 and average content.

spring 2011

of the clinical manifestations of

immunosuppressive cytokines

Zinc: Essential for Skin, Hair and Nail Development

authors found that the supplement

and enhancement of cellular and

Zinc is another ubiquitous and

or nail dystrophy have also been

significantly increased skin

humoral immunity).4

essential mineral with antioxidant

reported as symptoms of zinc

properties. It is essential for

deficiency. Zinc supplementation

complex containing yeast in

its role in immune defence

the form of selenoamino acids

(prevention of the production of

(selenium yeast Lalmin Se).3 The

tolerance to UV light in volunteers

When compared with mineral

severe zinc deficiency in humans is akrodermatitis. Patchy hair loss

forms (selenite, selenate),

many functions, including

has shown to be beneficial in

22% on untanned skin), reducing

selenium yeast offers the most

protein synthesis. Zinc has been

treating zinc-deficient leg ulcer

the risks of sunburn (Figure

bioavailable source of selenium

described as being essential

patients. Zinc supplementation is

1). They also reported that, in

for dietary supplementation. In

for immune defence and in

also considered to help heal bed

most volunteers, skin erythema

2008, an EFSA Scientific Panel

wound healing. Zinc is involved

sores, cold sores, surgical incisions,

(redness) was visibly reduced after

recognized that yeast with high

in collagen and keratin synthesis,

burns and a variety of other skin

the supplementation. Melanin

levels of organically bound

hence its importance in skin,

irritations. Zinc’s potential in skin,

production and skin colouration

selenium (amino acid-based

hair and nail development and

hair and nail health has prompted

were also enhanced as a result of

selenium) was up to twice as

maintenance. Zinc deficiency

EFSA to grant the mineral Article

the antioxidant effects. In parallel,

bioavailable than inorganic

has been associated with

13.1 health claims related to the

the authors showed a significant

forms.5 Selenium yeast —

delayed wound healing and

“maintenance of normal hair,

reduction of UV-induced oxidative

produced by growing yeast in the

various epithelial lesions. One

normal skin and normal nails.”6

stress in skin and reduced skin

presence of controlled amounts

genotoxicity, which were qualified

of mineral selenium under specific

by the authors as an “indicator

conditions — incorporates

of a potential reduction of the

the mineral into amino acids

most deleterious effects of solar

(selenomethionine) in the same

exposure, such as skin cancers

way that plants do. Combining

and ageing.” In a scientific review

recognized antioxidant properties

regarding the role of selenium

and skin benefits with optimal

in UV protection, McKenzie

bioavailability, selenium yeast —

suggests that selenium protects

which is rich in organically bound

the skin against UVB-induced

selenium — represents a potent

skin damage and cancers by

ingredient for nutricosmetics

several mechanisms that involve

for hair and nail health, sun

its antioxidant effect (decrease

protection and/or antiageing

oxidative DNA damage) and

indications.

2011 spring

Minimal Erythema Dose for nontanned skin (SED)

(a Minimal Erythema Dose of

+ 22%

5 4

P= 0.01

P= 0.005

3 2 1 0

Before antioxidant + 4 weeks antioxidant + 7 weeks antioxidant treatment treatment treatment Figure 1: Effect of antioxidant treatment containing Lalmin Se on skin tolerance to UV light as indicated by the Minimal Erythema Dose.3

19

beauty from within

70 60 50

References

Zn Zn gluconate

40

Zn Z n gluconate

Relative bioavailability (%)

80

30 20 10 0 -10

24 hours after Zn supplement

48 48 hours hours after Zn supplement Figure 2: Effect of supplemental zinc (zinc yeast versus gluconate) on relative bioavailability in healthy volunteers.7 When it comes to zinc

to loss of hair (including eyebrows

supplementation, yeast also

and lashes); these symptoms can

represents an ideal biocarrier:

be reversed by 1–2 months of biotin

zinc yeast offers optimal

treatment.12 Yeast represents a

bioavailability of the essential

major reservoir of B vitamins when

mineral, combined with all the

compared with other dietary

essential nutrients naturally

sources. For example, biotin is

present in yeast. Bioavailability

present in a wide range of food

studies have shown that a zinc

sources; however, only yeast and

yeast supplement (Lalmin Zn)

royal jelly are particularly rich

had a higher bioavailability than

sources. Table I lists some major

equivalent doses of gluconate zinc.

dietary sources of vitamins B2, B3

In a comparative clinical study in

and biotin.

healthy volunteers, it was shown

It is very difficult to guarantee

that the relative bioavailability

consistent levels of B complex

of a Lalmin Zn supplement was

vitamins in brewer’s by-products

significantly higher than a zinc

and even baker’s yeast. For this

gluconate supplement. The

reason, Lallemand has developed

protein-bound zinc from the

a yeast-based ingredient that’s

zinc yeast enabled better zinc

standardized in elevated and fixed

uptake and retention by the body,

levels of B vitamins to guarantee a

whereas zinc gluconate was less

consistently high level of seven of the

biologically available and even led

B complex vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B5,

to a small net loss of zinc 48 hours

B6, B8, B9). The vitamins in this yeast

after ingestion (Figure 2).7 This study

are standardized so that 500 mg

was supported by animal model

of the supplement brings 100% of

results showing a 3.7 fold increase

the European RDA for the seven

in bioavailability for Lalmin Zn when

B vitamins. Either separately or in

compared with equivalent doses

combination, yeast based minerals

of gluconate Zinc.8

and vitamins can offer a variety of applications for the nutricosmetics

Enhancing Yeast’s Natural B-eauty Potential!

market, such as antiageing,

B complex vitamins are essential

supplements. PHM

for hair/skin development and health. Among the B vitamin family, three members have received EFSA ‘beauty’ claims: vitamin B2 (riboflavin) and vitamin B3 (niacin) for skin benefits, and biotin (vitamin B8) for skin and hair benefits.9–11 Biotin deficiency is associated with scaly, eczematous skin, which is reversible by administering biotin, and the thinning and progression

20

antioxidant, sun protection, skin, nail and/or hair health and beauty

For more information

Morgane Maillard Product Manager, Mineral and Vitamin Enriched Yeasts Lallemand Health Ingredients 19, rue des Briquetiers F-31702 Blagnac, France.

Tel. +33 562 745 505 mmaillard@lallemand.com www.lallemandhi.com

1. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Selenium and Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 281), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 281), Protection Against Heavy Metals (ID 383), Maintenance of Normal Joints (ID 409), Maintenance of Normal Thyroid Function (ID 410, 1292), Protection of DNA, Proteins And Lipids from Oxidative Damage (ID 1292), and Maintenance of the Normal Function of the Immune System (ID 1750) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1727 (2010).

2. A. Sengupta, et al., “Selenoproteins are Essential for Proper Keratinocyte Function and Skin Development,” PLoS ONE 5(8): e12249, doi:10.1371/journal. pone.0012249 (2010).

3. J.P. Cesarini, et al., “Immediate Effects of UV Radiation on the Skin: Modification by an Antioxidant Complex Containing Carotenoids,” Photodermatol.

Photoimmunol. Photomed. 19, 182–189 (2003).

4. R.C. McKenzie, “Selenium, Ultraviolet Radiation and the Skin,” Clin. Exp. Dermatol. 25, 631–636 (2000).

5. EFSA Panel on Food Additives, Flavourings, Processing Aids and Materials in Contact with Foods (AFC), “Scientific Opinion of the Panel on Food Additives, Flavourings, Processing Aids and Materials in Contact with Food (AFC) on a Request from the Commission on Selenium-Enriched Yeast as Source for Selenium,” The EFSA Journal 766, 1–43 (2008).

6. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Zinc and Maintenance of Normal Skin (ID 293), DNA Synthesis and Cell Division (ID 293), Contribution to Normal Protein Synthesis (ID 293, 4293), Maintenance of Normal Serum Testosterone Concentrations (ID 301), “Normal Growth” (ID 303), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 304), Contribution to Carbohydrate Metabolism (ID 382), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 412), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 412) and Contribution to Normal Macronutrient Metabolism (ID 2890) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006, “The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1819 (2010).

7. T. Tompkins, N. Renard and A. Kiuchi, “Clinical Evaluation of the Bioavailability of Zinc-Enriched Yeast and Zinc Gluconate in Healthy Volunteers,” Biol. Trace Element Res. 120, 28-35 (2007).

8. A. Vinson, N. Renard and T. Tompkins, ”Comparative Bioavailability of MineralEnriched Gluconates and Yeast in Rat Liver After Depletion–Repletion Feeding,” Biol. Trace Element Res. 118, 104–110 (2007).

9. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA),” Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Riboflavin (Vitamin B2) and Contribution to Normal Energy-Yielding Metabolism (ID 29, 35, 36, 42), Contribution to Normal Metabolism of Iron (ID 30, 37), Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 31,33), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 32), Maintenance of Normal Bone (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Teeth (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 33), Maintenance of Normal Vision (ID 39), Maintenance of Normal Red Blood Cells (ID 40), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 41), Protection of DNA, Proteins and Lipids from Oxidative Damage (ID 207), and Maintenance of the Normal Function of the Nervous System (ID 213) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1814 (2010).

10. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Niacin and Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 47), Contribution to Normal Energy-Yielding Metabolism (ID 51), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 55), Maintenance of Normal Blood Flow (ID 211), and Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 4700) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1757 (2010).

11. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies (NDA), “Scientific Opinion on the Substantiation of Health Claims Related to Biotin and Maintenance of Normal Skin and Mucous Membranes (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Hair (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Bone (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Teeth (ID 121), Maintenance of Normal Nails (ID 121, 2877), Reduction of Tiredness and Fatigue (ID 119), Contribution to Normal Psychological Functions (ID 120) and Contribution to Normal Macronutrient Metabolism (ID 4661) Pursuant to Article 13(1) of Regulation (EC) No. 1924/2006,” The EFSA Journal 8(10), 1728 (2010).

12. D.M. Mock in B. Caballero and A.L. Prentice (Eds.), Encyclopedia of Human Nutrition (Elsevier, Oxford, UK, 2005).

spring 2011

hyadisine

™

Retains water to smooth the skin

The excellent long-lasting moisturizing and immediate anti-wrinkle properties of hyadisine™ proven in vivo showed the efficacy of this biotechnological marinebased active ingredient to improve skin appearance, with significant reduction of lines in only 2 hours.

www.lipotec.com

hair care

Polymers I

Next-generation conditioning polymer technology for hair. n this multitasking world,

customer success personally and,

conditioning benefits in hair

hair. In independent laboratory

personal care products

by listening, learns how to meet

care products. Have you been

testing, formulations based on

must serve multiple

the needs of its customers today …

looking for new ways to provide

EcoSmooth Silk were shown to

functions. Lotions moisturize

and as they change in the future.

conditioning benefits in hair care

provide minimized hair breakage

and provide sun protection;

In today’s competitive personal

products? As a non-cationic

and equivalent conditioning.

shampoos cleanse the scalp,

care market, there is an increasing

polymer, EcoSmooth Silk, the

Internal testing also showed

condition the hair and protect

need for superior, high quality,

first product in this new family of

reduced build-up and volume-

it from damaging elements

high performance ingredients

polymers, represents a new tool

down effects, and cost the same

such as the sun and pollution. To

for hair care products. As a

in the formulator’s toolbox and

as formulations with silicone.

increase a cosmetic’s efficiency

global leader in the conditioning

delivers an excellent balance of

in delivering the desired benefits,

polymer market, Dow Personal

cost and performance benefits

formulators have to work with

Care is living up to its brand

in formulations. EcoSmooth Silk

Chemistry: Novel Conditioner

ingredients that allow for unique

promise of leveraging its scientific

provides personal care brand

EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning

combinations, maximizing

innovation by introducing the first

owners an alternative to silicone

Polymers (INCI Name: Ethylene/

the effectiveness of each

groundbreaking conditioning

in shampoo formulations.

Octene Copolymer (and)

individual component in the

polymers in many decades.

EcoSmooth Silk is especially

Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate

effective in formulations for use

Copolymer) consist of non-

with Asian and European virgin

cationic ethane-1-copolymer

and consumers, Dow Personal

Conditioning Polymers

(non-dyed) hair types and has

(polyolefin) dispersed in water

Care, a business of The Dow

EcoSmooth Conditioning Polymers

been proven by an independent

with an acrylic-based proprietary

Chemical Company and its

are a new family of conditioning

lab to match silicone in wet and

polymer dispersant. EcoSmooth

consolidated subsidiaries, provides

polymers that have been

dry combing, as well as improve

Silk has a typical pH range of

a comprehensive portfolio of

designed to provide exceptional

hair strength, on damaged

9.5–10.5, as delivered, and its solids

ingredients for hair, skin and sun

benefits and embody a fresh,

care. Dow Personal Care takes

new approach to providing

final formulation. By listening to the needs of customers

As a non-cationic polymer, EcoSmooth Silk represents a new tool in the formulator’s toolbox.

22

Figure 1: Volume testing after 10 washes.

spring 2011

A

B

Figure 2: Panel study test of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on Asian virgin hair (A: ammonium lauryl ether sulfate/ammonium lauryl sulfate/betaine/coco monoethanolamide [AL ALS/betaine/CMEA] with 0.25% cationic guar) and European damaged brown hair (B: sodium lauryl ether sulfate/disodium cocoamphodiacetate [SLES/DSCADA] with ethylene glycol distearate [EGDS] with 0.25% cationic guar). content ranges between 40 and

studies show that EcoSmooth

44%. EcoSmooth Silk polymers

Silk performs as well as silicone in

do not use the traditional co-

two-in-one shampoos for Asian

acervate mechanism associated

virgin hair, 8-hour bleached hair

with cationic conditioners.

and on European brown hair

Because EcoSmooth Silk is not

(Figure 2). In tests conducted

cationically charged, it is believed

by an independent

that hydrophobic forces, instead

laboratory evaluating

of ionic forces, bind it to the

wet comb and dry hair

hair shaft and give hair a softer

breakage on bleached

feel. EcoSmooth Silk contains a

hair, it was found that

proprietary dispersion technology

the performance

that is sulfate-free and ethylene

of EcoSmooth Silk

oxide-free.

was equivalent to dimethicone. When

Performance: Actions Speak Louder than Words

comparing the wet

Improved volume: In a series

breakage provided by

of comparative performance

both the conditioning

tests, formulations containing

polymer and silicone

EcoSmooth Silk were shown

on bleached

to provide improved volume,

European brown hair,

suggesting less product build-up

results indicate that in wet

when compared with silicone-

comb testing, the polymer

containing shampoos. In a build-up

reduced the peak load by

study comparing EcoSmooth Silk

39% compared with silicone’s

with dimethicone, hair treated with

41% reduction (Figure 3).

EcoSmooth Silk has significantly

Regarding hair breakage, the

more volume after 10 washes

polymer reduced the number

(Figure 1). The volume-down

of broken hair fibres by 59%,

build-up effects of silicone are well

compared with silicone’s 51%

known. As build-up on hair is a

(Figure 4).

common consumer concern, the

Environmental health and safety:

performance benefits offered by

Reflecting on The Dow Chemical

EcoSmooth Silk represent a distinct

Company’s 2015 Sustainability

advantage to formulators looking

Goals, EcoSmooth Silk is

to address the issue of build-up as

considered to be non-toxic by

they develop new formulations.

single oral and dermal exposure,

Equivalent to silicone conditioning

slightly irritating to the skin and

performance: When comparing

eyes (that is, not classified as an

EcoSmooth Silk and silicone,

irritant in EEC) and not a sensitizer.

subjective test results indicate that

The polymer is considered to

their conditioning performance

be safe and appropriate for

is the same, as is the cost. Panel

use in a broad range of rinse-

2011 spring

comb force reduction and reduction in hair

23

hair care

EcoSmooth Silk provides personal care brand owners an alternative to silicone in shampoo formulations.

Figure 3: Wet comb testing of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on bleached European brown hair (15.5 SLES/3.5 DSCADA/0.25% cationic guar/EGDS/1% EcoSmooth Silk or silicone).

off personal care applications.

market. In the same way that

EcoSmooth Silk is one example

collaboration spurred the

of how Dow Personal Care is

innovation of EcoSmooth Silk

delivering on its commitment to

Conditioning Polymers, Dow

use resources more efficiently,

Personal Care continues to

provide value to customers and

integrate valuable, effective and

stakeholders, deliver solutions for

cost-efficient hair care options

customer needs and enhance

and solutions. EcoSmooth

the quality of life of current and

Satin, an alternative to cationic

future generations. Dow Personal

guar in clear shampoo for mild

Care is dedicated to providing

conditioning, is the next product

solutions based on sustainable

in the EcoSmooth Conditioning

chemistry and is able to leverage

Polymers portfolio and is

the technologies and capabilities

expected to be launched in

of the company to develop

May 2011. PHM

and refine solutions. As a result, our technologies enable our customers — and their customers — to develop more sustainable products and services, which is good for business and good for the world.

Meeting Tomorrow’s Customer Needs Today In summary, the new innovative EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers from Dow Personal

Figure 4: Repeated grooming of EcoSmooth Silk versus silicone on bleached European brown hair (15.5 SLES/3.5 DSCADA/0.25% cationic guar/EGDS/1% EcoSmooth Silk or silicone).

24

Care provide multiple benefits and excellent value to formulators in the hair care

For more information

Courtney S. Fretz is the strategic marketing manager for hair care and sustainability for Dow Home and Personal Care, a business unit within Dow’s Advanced Materials division. Fretz holds a Master of Business Administration (MBA) degree from Harvard Business School and a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and East Asian studies from the University of Pennsylvania. For a sample of EcoSmooth Silk and/or additional information, visit www.EcoSmoothSilk.com.

spring 2011

Natural

Treasures

NatraGem E145 & NatraGem S140 TM

Have you discovered the NatraGem Green Gems?

Green These natural treasures are approved natural by Ecocert and Gems offer effective green solutions to emulsification and solubilisation.

NatraGem E145 is a versatile, high HLB, oil-in-water emulsifier, which can be used to create a variety of natural cosmetics.

NatraGem S140 is a highly efficient natural solubiliser capable of incorporating a wide range of lipophilic ingredients into clear formulations.

■

Approved natural by Ecocert

■

Cold processable

■

Ultimately biodegradable

■

Free from ethoxylates and propoxylates

■

Suitable for use in a wide range of natural cosmetic applications

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build onTM

2011 spring

25

regulatory affairs

on ABS

The Nagoya Protocol and its possible implications for the sourcing of natural ingredients.

Protocol for biodiversity

genetic resources, which includes

based research and

research and development on

commercial activities will

the “biochemical composition of

only be determined as

genetic material.” Such a definition

its provisions are applied

was considered necessary to

in the context of national

achieve meaningful sharing of

laws and regulations. Yet, for business, particularly companies using biodiversity as the source and inspiration for innovative ingredients, the Nagoya Protocol already entails both increased scrutiny and additional guidance on ABS.

the benefits of biodiversity, as biochemical compounds are the basis for a wide range of products.

Flavonoids, for example, are among the compounds widely used in cosmetic formulations for their skincare properties.

Alkaloids, such as those found in the seeds of coffee and

What is the Nagoya Protocol on ABS?

guaraná, are broadly used in

The Nagoya Protocol on ABS is an

Although the application to ABS

international instrument adopted

of such compounds had been

n October 2010, more than

under the auspices of the CBD. Its

disputed in the past, the new

190 countries adopted new

objective is the fair and equitable

definitions in the Nagoya Protocol

rules on access and benefit

sharing of the benefits arising from the

seem to assert that research on

sharing (ABS). The Nagoya

utilization of genetic resources, thereby

the properties of extracts and

Protocol on ABS is the

contributing to the conservation

molecules from plants, for example,

culmination of years of negotiations

and sustainable use of biodiversity.

and their development and

aiming to put into effect a central

The Nagoya Protocol opened for

commercialization as ingredients

premise of the Convention on

signatures in February 2011 and four

in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics

Biological Diversity (CBD): the fair

countries, including Colombia and

or nutraceuticals is subject to

and equitable sharing of benefits

Brazil, signed it during this ceremony.

ABS. It is still not clear how these

derived from biodiversity. The CBD

The main provisions of the Nagoya

requirements will be implemented

established benefit sharing as one

Protocol include

along the supply chain, but

of its main objectives and outlined

•a definition of the objective, use of

companies will now need to

I

basic principles such as prior

terms and scope of the Nagoya

make sure that both they and their

informed consent and mutually

Protocol

providers comply will all relevant

agreed terms. Yet, these principles remained largely unimplemented, with a range of difficulties and different views on ways to overcome them. With the Nagoya Protocol, the fair and equitable sharing of benefits has come to

•e laboration on ABS principles and

legislation.

main requirements •p ossible mechanisms for implementation, including an ABS clearinghouse •m easures to promote compliance with ABS

Will the Nagoya Protocol Apply to New Uses or All Uses of Genetic Resources?

stay. ABS has been reaffirmed

•a wareness raising, capacity building

as a fundamental component

and transfer of technology activities

negotiations, there were different

of biodiversity strategies. A set of

on ABS.

positions on when benefit-sharing

rules has been agreed upon to

During the Nagoya Protocol

requirements become applicable.

Should benefit sharing apply

addition, a range of capacity

What Activities Are Covered Under its ABS Requirements?

building and technical assistance

ABS requirements of the Nagoya

enforced (for example, medicinal

programmes is being launched to

Protocol, as in the CBD, apply to

plants to be collected during a

support its prompt translation into

“genetic resources.” The Nagoya

screening programme in late 2012)?

concrete laws and practices. The

Protocol, however, has a new

Or should these requirements

precise implications of the Nagoya

definition of the “utilization” of

extend to all new uses of genetic

facilitate, promote and ensure its effective implementation. In

26

functional foods and beverages.

solely in relation to plant material accessed after the new rules were

spring 2011

resources, even if access took place

requirements. Previously accessed

the time of providing access, for the

already considering access and

before the Nagoya Protocol? Such

and used resources and benefits

issuance of a permit or its equivalent

benefit sharing in the context of their

would be the case, for instance, in

that have already been accrued

as evidence of the decision to grant

ethical sourcing practices, such a

the identification and development

would not be covered by the new

prior informed consent and of the

clarification reaffirms the need for all

as a cosmetic ingredient of a type

requirements.

establishment of mutually agreed

companies working with biodiversity

terms.

based ingredients to review their

of fruit seed oil obtained in 1997

the utilization of genetic resources

This issue, referred to as “temporal

Are There Any Changes to Existing ABS Requirements?

held by indigenous and local

now be able to refer to the more

scope,” was not expressly resolved

National rules on access and benefit

communities. In the CBD, the role of

comprehensive and practical

in the Nagoya Protocol. According

sharing: Recognizing the gaps

indigenous and local communities

provisions on ABS of the Nagoya

to international law, a legal

and complexities in the national

is only expressly recognized in

Protocol. There are also new

instrument cannot affect acts that

implementation of access and

relation to traditional knowledge.

issues to consider, including how

took place or situations that ceased

benefit sharing, the Nagoya Protocol

The Nagoya Protocol, however,

benefit sharing functions without a

to exist before its entry into force.

requires countries to provide for legal

also states that the use of genetic

necessary link to access procedures,

Nevertheless, new uses of previously

certainty, clarity and transparency

resources should take place with

how the prior informed consent of

obtained genetic resources could

in their relevant legislation or

the prior informed consent of

indigenous and local communities

be seen to entail new instances of

regulatory requirements. In addition,

indigenous and local communities

is appropriately obtained, and how

access — and thus be covered.

countries should make information

when they have the right to grant

new mechanisms for access and

Similarly, new benefits arising from

available on how to apply for prior

access to such resources. Similarly,

benefit sharing, including certificates

prior or ongoing uses may also

informed consent and provide

benefits resulting from the use of

of compliance established as a

be considered as new situations

written, cost-effective and timely

genetic resources rightfully held by

“passport” for biodiversity along

for benefit sharing — though not

replies to requests for such consent.

indigenous and local communities

the supply chain, can be used

for access —

Finally, countries should provide, at

should be shared with those

and navigated. It should be kept

communities. Such measures,

in mind that the Nagoya Protocol

already required by some national

does not constitute an immediate

laws and standards such as that of

or magical solution. It will take some

the UEBT, now clearly become part

time for policy makers, experts and

and previously known only for its properties as a dietary supplement.

Which Countries Are Required to Establish Measures for ABS?

Another new provision refers to

relevant policies and practices.

In such a review, companies will

of access and benefit sharing best Compliance measures to ensure that ABS requirements are observed across national practices. borders are at the core of the Nagoya Protocol. ABS provisions in the CBD already established obligations for both countries providing access to genetic resources and also for countries where biodiversity based research, development and commercialization usually take place. Yet, little What Does This progress was made on legislative, administrative or policy measures that would ensure Mean for Natural international ABS compliance. The Nagoya Protocol now requires all countries to establish “appropriate, Ingredients effective and proportionate” measures to provide that genetic resources and traditional knowledge utilized in Food and within their jurisdiction have been accessed on the basis of prior informed consent and mutually agreed terms, Personal Care? as required by the country of origin. As a result, it would be not only Brazil or Malaysia, for example, that would For companies working need to establish mechanisms to regulate and control access to their biological resources. France or Japan, for instance, would also need to ensure that research, development and commercialization conducted within their with biodiversity based ingredients for countries utilizes genetic resources according to the requirements established by the countries of origin of these food and personal resources. According to the Nagoya Protocol, France or Japan — to continue using those examples — would also care products, need to take appropriate, effective and proportionate measures in cases of non-compliance. Indeed, to monitor the utilization of genetic resources, these countries would need to designate one or more “checkpoints” along the value perhaps the chain, as well as collaborate and grant access to justice in cases of alleged violation of national ABS legislations. most important

other stakeholders to determine

development in the

quickly to put ABS in practice will

Nagoya Protocol

reduce the growing reputation and

is the clarification

regulatory risks of non-compliance.

of the scope of

For companies working with

ABS requirements.

biodiversity based ingredients for

Research conducted on the biochemical composition of plants to determine beneficial properties, as well as the subsequent development and commercialization of bioactive compounds as ingredients is considered to be the “utilization of genetic resources.”

It must therefore take place with prior informed consent and fair and equitable sharing of benefits.

Although some companies in the food and personal care sectors were

2011 spring

what the Nagoya Protocol can and should mean in practice.

Although only a starting point, the Nagoya Protocol does nevertheless reaffirm the importance of ABS: it is also a renewed call for all stakeholders to take relevant principles into consideration in all their activities. In this regard, early adopters of ABS in the food and personal care sectors stand to gain a competitive advantage from the growing interest and attention to the topic. In addition, moving

food and personal care products, therefore, the Nagoya Protocol should be seen as an opportunity to advance their engagement and commitment to the ethical sourcing of biodiversity. PHM

For more information

María Julia Oliva Union for Ethical BioTrade 32 Rue de Berne, CH-1201 Geneva, Switzerland.

Tel. +41 22 566 1585 julia@ethicalbiotrade.org www.ethicalbiotrade.org

27

natural ingredients

Nature’s Antiageing Multitasker Natural active ingredients with antiageing effects are very popular these days. At this year’s in-cosmetics, a new star is making its way onto the stage: Echinacea purpurea, the purple coneflower. The plant, with its burgundy-red blossoms, ranks among the untapped greats in the field of cosmetics, as the new active ingredient from Symrise demonstrates.

A

ntiageing products

meets all of these demands:

has several clinically confirmed

in two in vitro and two ex vivo

are a growth

the multitalented plant provides

effects. The plant extract

studies. Symrise researchers

market; and, at the

extensive protection against

stimulates the immune system, is

were able to demonstrate that

same time, the issue

premature skin ageing while also

anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial,

SymFinity 1298 creates a significant

is a major challenge

meeting the cosmetics industry’s

has antioxidative properties and

improvement in the skin’s defence

for the cosmetics industry.

increasing need for natural

helps to support the wound-

against stress after a mere 48

Consumers want products that do

ingredients.

healing process. Symrise has

hours. The recommended dose is

now marketed a 100% natural

0.1%. “The most well-known sirtuin

more than just minimize existing

Echinacea purpurea originally

wrinkles; they are looking for wide-

came from North America where

antiageing concentrate of

activator to date is resveratrol, a

ranging protection against harmful

native peoples used it to heal

Echinacea purpurea. Known

polyphenol found in grapes. This is

environmental factors, an effective

wounds. The Europeans did not

as SymFinity 1298, this product is

why we were looking for an active

way to prevent further ageing and

learn to appreciate the medicinal

obtained from the dried juice of

ingredient that was comparable

a radiant, healthy complexion. In

properties of echinacea until

the fresh plant. “SymFinity 1298

in effect to resveratrol … but

addition, the demand for natural

the 20th century. Nowadays,

has three-fold effects: as a sirtuin

more stable, easier to formulate

ingredients is growing as well. The

the purple coneflower is seen

activator, an antioxidant and an

and cost-effective,” explained

new Echinacea purpurea extract

to be a versatile substance that

anti-irritant,” explains Dr Marielle

Dr Marielle le Maire. “We found

le Maire, Global Product Director

the right active substance in

of Life Essentials at Symrise. “It

Echinacea purpurea.”

activates the synthesis of sirtuin,

echinacea have primarily been

of skin cells. Sirtuin helps the skin

used to treat respiratory infections;

to protect itself more effectively

they have rarely been found in

against stress and is considered

cosmetic products. Dr Marielle le

to be one of its natural ‘defence

Maire, however, is confident that this

mechanisms.’ It helps to repair

will soon change: “We have only

the damage caused by UVB

just begun to maximize the purple

rays and improves the skin’s

coneflower’s potential in terms

detoxification processes.”

of its use in cosmetic products.”

SymFinity 1298’s

Symrise is consistently focusing on

antioxidative properties

the power of nature when it comes

also combat the skin

to the other product innovations

damage caused by free

it is presenting at in-cosmetics.

radicals, thus providing

Among other things, the company

additional protection

is featuring natural extracts of

against premature ageing.

vegetables and grains with

Furthermore, SymFinity 1298 is an effective anti-irritant that regulates inflammatory dermal reactions, which prevents age spots and an uneven complexion.

It is particularly powerful regarding the prevention long-term damage to the skin. The efficacy of SymFinity 1298 was confirmed

28

To date, botanical extracts of

a protein that prolongs the life

beneficial properties, and these substances are now being used in cosmetic products as well. PHM

For more information

Dr Marielle le Maire Global Product Director of Life Essentials Symrise (www.symrise.com).

spring 2011

2011 spring

29

male grooming

for the Hirsute

A premium brand of paraben-free shaving cream and post-shave balm aimed at men with heavy beard growth has been launched in the UK. The piratical-sounding The Bluebeards Revenge contains an ingredient called Decelerine, which the company claims can reduce beard growth by up to 40% in 60 days.

N

ick Gibbens,

targets hair follicle cells

spokesperson

and weakens new hair

for the British

formation.

brand, said: “Decelerine has

According to the manufacturer, Lipotec,

been proven to inhibit hair growth

in tests, Decelerine

and decrease the length and

showed a 30% decrease

density of unwanted hair, thus

in hair length as well as

reducing the frequency of shaving

a 16% reduction in hair

and depilation. “It also provides

density after 60 days.

a soothing, moisturizing and anti-

Decelerine, which contains

inflammatory effect on the skin.

water, glycerine, Barbados Aloe

This, in turn, helps to reduce razor

(Aloe barbadensis) leaf extract,

rash and razor burn.” So how does

lauryl isoquinolinium bromide,

industry insists that parabens,

chosen by shaving enthusiasts.

Decelerine work? The normal

Psuedoalteromonas ferment

which are approved for use by

It is based on a fresh and classic

hair growth cycle is divided

extract, polyquaternium-37,

regulators, are safe. “The debate

English barbershop scent with a

into four periods: active growth

disodium EDTA, isopropyl alcohol,

rages on about the possible

modern twist. Based on average

phase (anagen), a short transition

sodium sorbate, sodium benzoate,

cancer inducing properties

use, a tub of The Bluebeards

period with regression (catagen),

allantoin, glucose and caprylyl

of parabens; but, despite this,

Revenge shaving cream typically

a resting phase (telogen) and a

glycol has a recommended

many manufacturers still use

lasts for 4–5 months, whereas the

shedding stage (exogen). Then,

concentration level of 3%.

them as a cheap and effective

post-shave balm has an expected

way of increasing the shelf-life

lifespan of 2–3 months.

the new hair starts to grow and the Hair length is primarily a function

Paraben-Free Shaving Cream

of their products,” says Nick. He

of the relative durations of anagen

The Bluebeards Revenge,

between parabens and cancer

Positive Press Coverage

and telogen. Whether hairs are

which uses totally recyclable

has not been proven, we have

The Bluebeards Revenge shaving

in one of these phases at the

packaging, does not contain

taken the conscious decision

cream has proved to be an

time of hair removal is important

any of the controversial paraben

to steer well clear of them.” The

instant success around the

because only anagen-stage

preservatives that are found

Bluebeards Revenge is made with

globe, with a large number of

hairs are particularly sensitive

in many of today’s cosmetic

vegetarian-friendly ingredients

coveted retailers stocking the

to physical injuries. Decelerine

products. The cosmetics

and has a signature scent that was

shaving cream and the post-

follicle reverts back to anagen.

30

added: “Whereas the connection

spring 2011

shave balm. The company has attributed its early success to the positive media coverage that the brand has received. Wet shaving experts from around the globe have praised the cream for its luxurious lather, modern scent and consistency, with Mike Sandoval, from Shaving101.com, describing it as one of the best shaving creams he has ever used.

About.com grooming editor, Dave Alexander, was equally as impressed with The Bluebeards Revenge. “The cream created a very slick surface on my skin and I experienced no razor drag at all. The shave was incredibly close and I got an excellent shave with just one pass of the razor — not something that happens all that often with other shave creams I’ve tried,” he said. The product left my skin smooth and moisturized to the point that I didn’t really feel the need to use a separate moisturizer afterward.

I also got an excellent, irritationfree shave using The Bluebeards Revenge. The performance was

Whereas the connection between parabens and cancer has not been proven, we have taken the conscious decision to steer well clear of them.

on par with some of the best

the hair on their bodies by 40% in

shave creams I’ve tried; in fact, it

60 days too. So, effectively, our

now tops that list.”

‘World’s Manliest Shaving Product’ has been hijacked by women to

A Growing Female Fan Base

reduce the hair growth on their

The brand, which is available to

The Bluebeards Revenge product

buy in more than ten countries,

range has now been expanded

has also proved to be extremely

into badger-hair shaving brushes,

popular with the ladies, with one

Mach3 razors, safety razors,

retailer reporting that more than

cutthroat razors, wash bags and

1000 women have snapped up the

shaving gift sets. PHM

legs, underarms and bikini lines.”

miracle antihair product since its launch. Tom Truman, spokesperson for The Shaving Shack, said: “Despite the product being heavily aimed at men with significant beard growth, we started noticing a quarter of buying customers were women. We presumed at first they were buying for their husbands, but the trend continued and is now accounting for half our sales.” He continued: “We have conducted some research into this, and discovered that women have seen their husbands use it, or seen the Decelerine coverage, and realized that if they use it themselves, they can reduce

For more information

Nick Gibbens Digital Marketing Manager The Bluebeards Revenge Tel. +44 1752 898 191 www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

AMA LABORATORIES, INC .

A Tradition – Prompt Precise Professional

A Tradition –

Prompt Precise Professional

About AMA Founded in 1984, AMA Laboratories, Inc. has served as a complete facility for scientific testing, product development and consumer research for a vastly diverse clientele, across the globe. AMA is a registered laboratory with the FDA, EPA, USDA, as well as NYS Department of Health and is subject to regular inspections. AMA maintains membership in such professional societies as SCC, PBA, PCPC, DCES and the AAPS. AMA’s Quality Management System has been registered to ISO 9001:2008.

• SPF (Sun Protection Factor) - AMA can conduct these tests according to all protocols.

• Product Safety Testing – Including, but not limited to, Human Comedogenicity, Phototoxicity/Maximization, RIPT. • Skin Studies - Including, but not limited to, Moisturization, Wrinkle Reduction, TEWL, Skin Elasticity, Sebometry • Beauty Salon Studies – Supervised by a certified/ licensed cosmetologist

Ask about our FREE In-Vitro Sunscreen Testing • Hair & Nail Studies – Including Tensile Strength, Gravimetric ”Pull” • SPF (Sun Protection Factor) • Product Safety Testing • Skin Studies

• Beauty Salon Studies • Hair & Nail Studies • Antiperspirant / Odor Efficacy Studies

Analysis, Regimented Combing

• Consumer Research, • Antiperspirant/ Odor Efficacy Studies Claim Substantiation •Consumer Research, Claim Substantiation and Demonstration and Demonstration Development Development • Scientific Photography – Which allows visual substantiation bio• physical Scientific Photography& product efficacy measurements *Individual protocols can be constructed to meet the unique products and claim substantiation requirements of our clients.

216 Congers Rd., New City, NY 10956 845.634.4330 Fax: 845.634.5565

2011 spring

www.amalabs.com AMA Laboratories Inc. 216 Congers Road, New City ● Bldg 1 ● New York 10956 USA www.amalabs.com

31

technology

Nanoscale system aids cosmeceutical delivery.

Under My Skin

T

Using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS)

he capacity

naturally occurring, high-

(such as those found in cosmetics

for topical oil-

density lipoproteins (HDL) that

and pharmaceuticals).

based products

bind cholesterol.2 Such proteins

to effectively

transport a hydrophobic

substances through the stratum

size is consistent at the pH

penetrate the skin,

molecule in the largely aqueous

corneum is tightly mediated

and temperature found within

and therefore deliver the active

environment of the bloodstream.

by particle size. Hydrophilic

the body, it is important to

compounds where it counts,

The Lipodisq nanoparticles could

channels within the dermal

gain accurate and reliable

presents a perennial challenge

potentially carry oil-soluble

structure that could potentially

characterization data. This is

for both the pharmaceutical

cosmetic or pharmaceutical

allow particles access are only

possible using dynamic light

and the personal care industry.

agents within them, and are

about 2 nm in diameter.3 Any

scattering (DLS), a rapid and real-

However, a recent study has

of an ideal size and flexibility

subcellular delivery system that

time particle sizing technique.

highlighted a new nanoscale

to be able to enter channels

is greater than about 50 nm

DLS works by measuring the

delivery system that may just

in the outermost layers of the

in size will remain firmly on the

intensity of scattered light from

provide an answer.1 Here we

epidermis (stratum corneum).

skin’s surface, whereas those

a suspension of particles under

look at how the Zetasizer Nano

Here they form a reservoir of the

below 5–10 nm, such as micellar

Brownian motion, and then

particle characterization system

active ingredient carried within

assemblies, are considered to

analysing time-dependent

from Malvern Instruments is being

the formulation. Lipodisqs are

be too unstable to efficiently

fluctuations. 5 The sensitivity of DLS

used to analyse the effects of

composed of a phospholipid

transport active ingredients

enables it to track changes in the

pH and temperature on a novel

membrane core surrounded by

through the stratum corneum.4

size of particles to below 1 nm in

nanoparticle delivery system

a chaperone molecule that is

The nanoparticles described

diameter, and to accuracies of

— Lipodisq — developed by

either a responsive polymer or a

here lie within the critical

a fraction of a nanometre. This

Malvern Cosmeceutics Ltd

surfactant that forms a cone-like

size range of approximately

makes it particularly well suited

(Malvern, UK).

shape to entrap the phospholipid

10–50 nm. Their high degree

when investigating changes in

in a bilayer or spherical form.

of flexibility means they can

the size of particles that can be

A Novel Nanoparticle Delivery System

Slight changes to this cone-like

wedge themselves into the

found in the human body

structure can result in changes

elastic hydrophilic pores of the

to the shape or size of the

stratum corneum, accumulating

The Lipodisq system is designed

phospholipid assembly or lead to

in the outer layers and forming

The Effect of pH and Temperature

to overcome the constraints of

its breakdown. The hydrophobic

a reservoir of active material

The shape and size of a

conventional delivery systems.

core can encapsulate

so that they can penetrate the

polymeric Lipodisq nanoparticle

It does this by mimicking

hydrophobic or oily molecules

outer layers of the skin.

can be altered by precisely

Crucially, delivery of

To ensure that nanoparticle

controlling the pH. By varying the ratio of hydrophobic to hydrophilic groups in the backbone of the chaperone molecule, the molecular charge, coiling and shape can be finely tuned. At low pH values, the mean diameter of the particles increases as the molecule undergoes dimensional changes; but, if the pH increases, it regains its former size and shape. This technique could be used to control the size of nanoparticles within the body.

By replacing the negatively charged chaperone molecule with a surfactant, it becomes possible to use temperature instead of pH as a means of controlling particle size. In

32

spring 2011

Lipodisq nanoparticles could potentially carry oil-soluble cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents within them and should be able to penetrate the outermost layers of the epidermis.

this situation, the surfactant

surfactant-phospholipid

also increased from about

interacts with the phospholipid

interactions. This eventually leads

20 nm to more than 300 nm. This

portion of the nanoparticle. As

to the release of the phospholipid

size increase continued to the

the temperature increases, the

as a macroscopic emulsion.

point when the nanoparticle

hydrophilic groups become

disrupted and the phospholipids

Tailoring the Response

were released to form a dense

the hydrophobic/hydrophilic balance and making the

Results from the Zetasizer Nano

temperature cooled, the original

nanoparticle more hydrophobic;

demonstrated that as pH was

particle size was restored. Lipodisq

this leads to an increase in

reduced, the mean diameter of

technology is being assessed

particle size. At the cloud point

the nanoparticles increased from

for multiple uses in both the

— the temperature at which

about 12 nm to more than

cosmetic and pharmaceutical

dissolved surfactants are no

200 nm. In separate experiments,

fields, and for widespread

longer completely soluble —

as the temperature was gradually

applications in other fields of

the complex begins to break

increased from 20 to 90 °C, in

technology in which controlled

less hydrated, decreasing

down because of weakened 1 A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout

References

1. A . Harper, et al., “pH and Temperature Responsive Novel Nanoparticles Characterized by Dynamic Light Scattering,” presented at Particulate Systems Analysis 2008 (Stratfordupon-Avon, UK, September 2008).

2. A . Harper, et al., “Environmentally Responsive Nanoparticles for Delivery as Assessed via Light Scattering and Near-infrared Imaging,” Cosmetics & Toiletries 125(9), 52–57 (2010).

3. G. Cevc, “Lipid Vesicles and Other Colloids as Drug Carriers on the Skin,” Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews 56, 675–711 (2004).

4. J .A. Bouwstra, et al., “Skin Structure and Mode of Action of Vesicles,” Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews 54(Suppl. 1), S41–S55 (2002).

5. www.malvern.com/zetasizer.

emulsion. However, as the

increments of 115:23 °C, particle 07.09.2010 Uhr size Seite 3release is required. PHM

For more information

Malcolm Connah Product Marketing Manager, Nanometrics Malvern Instruments Enigma Business Park Grovewood Road, Malvern WR14 1XZ, UK. Tel. +44 1684 892 456 www.malvern.com

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com

last word

Innovative Proprietary Approaches With more than 40% of the population stating that they suffer from sensitive skin, the incidence of skin sensitivity and discomfort is increasing. This includes a broad spectrum of mild to severe dermatological conditions such as dryness, redness, scaling, flaking, papules and oedema, all of which can affect self-esteem and quality of life. Non-medicinal preparations that are safe, effective and mild enough for everyday use are sought to help manage these stressful manifestations.

I

BR-ProPhyDerm is a newly

of 26 mild-to-moderate eczema

linked to recurring irritation and

developed proprietary, non-

patients. The total scoring and

inflammation of the skin, most

steroidal composition for

efficacy index of both treatments

commonly initiated by exposure to

dermal relief. Formulated to

(IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream versus

UV. Ageing, acne, depilation, sun

address the dermatological

hydrocortisone [1%] cream) was

exposure, hormonal imbalances

needs of the consumer, such

identical, representing a 70%

and various skin disorders form

as dermal relief, calming,

improvement in the appearance

just a short list of other factors that

beautification and moisturization,

of skin eczema symptoms after

can result in hyperpigmentation.

its composition is based on the

4 weeks of use (Figure 1).

IBR-Phyto(flu)ene is a colourless

science supporting its active

combination of two carotenoids,

botanic extracts. Natural activity,

Skin Beautification

phytoene and phytofluene,

and the fact that it’s safe and

One of the strongest trends driving

an advanced technology

mild enough for everyday use,

the global skincare market today

platform for effective skin

make IBR-ProPhyDerm an ideal

is skin whitening, lightening and

whitening and lightening.

companion for anyone struggling

evening of the skin tone. Although

Phytoene and phytofluene

with sensitive and discomforted

an ancient trend, a pale, flawless

— the colourless carotenoids

skin. Although efficacious, steroids

complexion is still associated with

— are the initial precursors of

often have unwanted side-effects,

beauty, youth, health, nobility

the carotenoid biosynthesis

which might include severe skin

and purity. Much effort has been

pathway and are found

irritation, thinning, discolouration,

invested by the cosmetic industry

in most carotenogenic

stretch marks and susceptibility

into making skin whitening easy,

organisms, including micro-

90

Efficacy Index (mean)

80 70

organisms, algae, fungi and

IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream

plants, wherein they act as

Hydrocortisine 1% cream

a shield against excessive radiation and environmental

60

stressors. These molecules are

50

devoid of colour in the visible

40

spectrum, only absorbing light

30

in the UV range, and have

20

been shown to preferentially

10

accumulate in the skin as a result

0

of a carotenoid-rich diet.

Erythema

Papulovesicle

Papule

Oedema

Scaling

Itching

Change in Total Score * Lesion Size

An in vivo, placebo-

Figure 1: Efficacy index of IBR-ProPhyDerm CD cream versus hydrocortisone (1%) cream).

controlled study evaluating the

to local infections and bruising.

effective and safe. A number of the

lightening effect of a cream

IBR-ProPhyDerm is a steroid-free

actives being used in skin whitening

comprising IBR-TCLC (colourless

preparation and, therefore, free

products can, however, be toxic or

tomato carotenoids) was done,

from these side-effects, having

irritating. So, finding a scientifically

resulting in a significant skin

been formulated with a patent-

proven, safe and active alternative

whitening effect after 42 days.

protected combination of active

is an ongoing challenge.

The pigmentation-reducing effect

botanical extracts.

Skin colour is primarily

of phytoene and phytofluene

determined by the concentration

is most likely derived from their

Clinical Evidence

of melanocytes in the skin, the

ability to inhibit melanin synthesis

This product has been clinically

levels of melanin within these

in melanocytes, coupled with

tested and proven to be equally

melanocytes and the distribution

additional protection against

as effective as hydrocortisone

of that melanin to surrounding

UV radiation and subsequent

(1%) for the relief of skin discomfort

keratinocytes. Hyperpigmentation

damage from free radicals

symptoms (such as itching) and

(uneven skin tone, dark spots,

and inflammation

aesthetic manifestations (such

freckles) is the darkening of skin

— representing a

as redness, flakiness and scaling)

caused by increased melanocyte

multifactorial

in a single-centre, randomized,

proliferation, melanin synthesis

way to control

double-blind, controlled study

and/or deposition. It is closely

pigmentation. PHM

34

For more information

Olga Ben-Chitrit, Fabien Havas, Liki von Oppen-Bezalel Contact Liki von Oppen-Bezalel VP Business Development and Marketing IBR Ltd lbezalel@ibrweb.com Tel. +49 30 8058 9698 www.ibrweb.com

spring 2011

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36

spring 2011