PHM Summer 2011 by Paul Howells

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

SUMMER EDITION 2011

PUREHealth Magazine

INSIDE!

Antiageing Targeting mature skin

Hair Care Pushing performance benefits Crossing the first barrier

Sun Care

A sunless approach to natural tanning Formulating global products

contents SUMMER EDITION 2011

CONTENTS . . . e u I

s s i s i h t n

PUREHealth Magazine

PAGE 28

News and Products

05 A Round Up of the Latest News and Updates

Regulatory Issues

06 Prepare for the New Cosmetics Regulations Lyndsey Wright

08 New Tools for Genotoxicity Assessment Dr Andrew Knight

Antiageing

14 Engaging with Values: The Importance of a slow Approach to Health and Ageing Kate Marie

20 Targeting Mature Skin with Three Peptides MĂriam Mateu and Elena CaĂąadas

Hair Care

20 The First Protective Barrier Lia Receveur

08 38

Suncare

22 Formulating Global Sunscreen Products Julian Hewitt

26 A Sunless Approach to Natural Self-Tanning Erik Metz

Technology 38 Fit for Profits?

Dr Kevin Robinson with Peter Hill

Executive Profile

42 Pushing the Performance Benefits of Hair Care Charlotte Hodgson with Liam Doherty

Last Word

46 The Scent of Success Charlotte Hodgson with Neil Weaver

2011 summer

news Bitter Sweet

Bottled Beauty BioCell Technology LLC (www.biocelltechnology.com) recently announced the completion of the first human skin study of BioCell Collagen II — a naturally occurring matrix containing hydrolyzed collagen and highly bioavailable hyaluronic acid — in women who have undergone natural and UV intensified ageing processes. Previously established as a nutraceutical capable of delivering benefits for bone and joint health — receiving a 2011 Frost & Sullivan Best Practice Award in Customer Value Enhancement — its antiageing advantages extend to the arena of aesthetics. The study demonstrates that BioCell Collagen II is not only safe but efficient in improving a variety of qualitatively and quantitatively measured facial effects associated with ageing. Its multilayered mechanisms of action have been shown to synergistically antagonize the skin ageing process and promote a younger looking appearance; skin was better hydrated with a higher collagen content, reduced wrinkle count and shallower line depth. A majority of the participants experienced a remarkable improvement in skin texture together with hydration, reduced scaling and improved blood microcirculation. Dr Joosang Park, principal investigator of the research team, stressed that “subjects took BioCell Collagen II orally … this was not a topical study” and described the product as “a true nutricosmetic that promotes healthy ageing.”

Naturex recently unveiled the results of the latest study into its moisturizing active, Aurealis. An extract of bitter orange flowers (Citrus aurantium L.) that are cultivated throughout the Mediterranean, the specific profile of this active helps the skin to maintain the balance of water diffusion/evaporation and enhances water retention by limiting losses. Compounds known as glycoaminoglycans (GAG) — most importantly hyaluronic acid (HA) — are the main carriers in the hydration process of the extracellular matrix, helping to regulate skin moisturizing thanks to excellent water retention properties. During the ageing process, however, HA content decreases, leaving the skin unable to retain moisture. The latest ex vivo study reveals the considerable enhancement properties of Aurealis, which was seen to increase epidermal thickness by 82%. As a result, this barrier is reinforced, protecting the body from daily exposure to dry air, cleaning products, extreme temperatures and other environmental factors. Levels of GAG and HA are seen to rise significantly; the Aurealis compound was shown to increase the production of GAG in the basal layer and HA in the epidermis by 183% and 33%, respectively. Supported by scientific data, Aurealis is an ingredient with great potential that, owing to its ability to stimulate all layers of the epidermis, may be ideal for skincare preparations (www.naturex.com).

summer 2011

The Sky’s the Limit: Botanics Firm Launches Home Grown Extracts Blue Sky Botanics has launched an exciting new range of home grown botanical extracts to add to its dynamic PHYTA brand. The new PHYTAFARM range consists of five botanical extracts grown at Castle Farm, the home of Blue Sky Botanics, in the UK. The company uses a variety of fresh and dried herbs, flowers, fruits, vegetables and seaweeds to manufacture a vast range of extracts, flavours, juices and infusions for its PHYTA product range. Available now as part of the PHYTAFARM range is Organic Wild Harvested Ivy, Oak Bark, White Willow, Oats and Echinacea. Blue Sky Botanics Director, James Lambe, said: “Biodiversity, long-term sustainability and organic farming are the key drivers at Castle Farm, so we are very excited to be launching this new range of botanical extracts made from plants grown and wild harvested on our own farm. Blue Sky Botanics is well known for its range of ethically and sustainably produced botanical extracts but it is only now that we have been able to fully utilize the farm’s natural resources.” The new extracts contain individual properties that are in great demand in the beauty and healthcare industry: ivy is detoxifying and stimulating to the circulation; oak bark is rich in tannins and has an astringent action on oily skin or hair; white willow contains salicylic acid, which has an exfoliating and skin brightening effect; oats are soothing, moisturizing and a good source of vitamins and minerals for skin and hair; and Echinacea has been shown in studies to promote cell renewal and have a skin firming effect. For more information about Blue Sky Botanics and the new PHYTAFARM range, visit www.blueskybotanics.com.

2011 summer

regulatory issues

Prepare for the New

The EC Cosmetics Directive was published in 1976 with the primary aim of protecting consumers and enabling the free circulation of products within the European Union. More than 50 amendments later, these remain the core features of the Directive, but its days are numbered. In January 2010 the new Cosmetic Regulation came into force, with the expectation that new requirements will need to be followed from July 2013, at which point the EC Cosmetics Directive will cease to have any standing.

he new Regulation comprises 40 articles and 10 annexes, and one of its key outcomes

is an attempt to clarify the distinction between a medicine and a cosmetic. Hence the Regulation, as enacted in the UK, provides the following definition of a cosmetic product. A “cosmetic product” is defined as any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with

There is much about the new Regulation that requires much effort to understand. But understand we must, as the Regulation includes increased accountability.

the various external parts of the human body (epidermis,

preventing disease in human

Healthcare products Regulatory

hair system, nails, lips and

beings” or “Any substance or

Agency (MHRA) in the UK

external genital organs) or

combination of substances

does not consider dandruff to

with the teeth and the mucous

that may be used in or

be a disease, and as a result

membranes of the oral cavity

administered to human beings

antidandruff preparations/

with a view — exclusively or

either with a view to restoring,

shampoos are not classified as

mainly — to cleaning them,

correcting or modifying

medicines. That may not always

perfuming them, changing

physiological functions by

be true across the rest of Europe

their appearance, correcting

exerting a pharmacological,

and certainly not in the US.

body odours, protecting

immunological or metabolic

them or keeping them in

action, or to making a medical

Training Needed

good condition except where

diagnosis.” A medicinal product

Definitions and classifications

such cleaning, perfuming,

has to be distinguished from

aside, there is much about the

protecting, changing, keeping

medical devices, cosmetics and

new Regulation that requires

or correcting is wholly for

food products.

some effort to understand. But

the purpose of treating or

It is therefore vital that in the

understand we must, as the

classification of any product as

Regulation includes increased

a cosmetic, consideration of

accountability, particularly

with that given for a medicinal

where the product is applied,

for those exercising the duties

product by the European

its function, its composition

of a Responsible Person and

Parliament and the Council on

and presentation (that is,

others involved in the supply

the community code relating

packaging and claims) are

chain. Moreover, the demand

to medicinal products for

required. However, what is also

from relevant authorities

human use (Directive 2004/27/

key is that the classification

for more information about

EC), as being “Any substance

of borderline products varies

product composition, and the

or combination of substances

between Member States. For

requirements for compliance

presented for treating or

example, the Medicines and

with Good Manufacturing

preventing disease. This definition compares

summer 2011

Practice (GMP) will have

smaller producers will struggle

consequences for all those

with their obligations, but

involved in the specification

large companies will also

and sourcing of ingredients, in

need to work hard, both to

the process of manufacturing

understand the requirements

and marketing of cosmetic

of the Regulation and

products. Thus, the new

to provide the safety

Regulation indicates a need

information specified.

for training across every organization involved in

GMP

cosmetic manufacturing.

GMP is a term already understood by the

Notification Centralized

pharmaceutical and

Under the current Directive,

those with only ‘cottage

different Member States

industry’ experience of

have different procedures

cosmetic manufacturing

for permitting new products

may be new to the

to enter home markets. The

concept. This will have

new Regulation intends to

to change. Although

centralize this process by

GMP, as understood

introducing a database to

by the pharmaceutical

which crucial data must be

sector, is not an obligation

submitted. As it transpires,

of the new Regulation,

this notification will also

it is ‘presumed’ that

encompass existing products,

manufacturers will comply

although the information

with EN ISO 22716:2007 or

antidandruff product, will have

an 18 month transition phase

required for registering

a standard that meets the

to be backed up by credible

that starts in January 2012,

new products will be even

same objective. For example,

studies supporting the claim.

during which notification can

greater. There will therefore

manufacturers will be expected

Similarly, if a product claims

be made under the Directive

be substantial demands

amongst other things to be

that no animal testing has

or the Regulation, but if the

made on the Responsible

able to produce batch control

been done, then the burden of

product is expected to be on

Persons who have to provide

records, to demonstrate GMP

proof will lie with the company

the market after July 2013,

the information, particularly

and sanitization procedures,

responsible for marketing it.

then it will make sense to

regarding any potentially

to have written Standard

hazardous ingredients used in

Operating Procedures (SOPs)

Conclusion

in the first instance to avoid

the formulation, no matter how

and to hold GMP records. If

The new Regulation covers a

having to repeat the process.

insignificant they seem.

anyone is unsure about what

multitude of different areas

Clearly, therefore, there is

these terms refer to, never mind

of cosmetic production/

much for the cosmetic industry

what they actually involve,

marketing other than those

to digest during the next few

then training is clearly a priority

outlined above, and, unless

months and knowing what will

requirement.

preparation starts now, many

be expected is the first step

manufacturers may struggle

to being prepared. Training

Product Information File (PIF)

food industries, but

Alongside the notification

notify under the Regulation

comes a requirement for a

Claims

to be ready for the full

courses, such as those offered

Product Information File (PIF),

Whereas recognizing that

implementation in July 2013.

by RSSL, will help key personnel

not dissimilar in concept

claims made on behalf of

Although the existing Directive

to become familiar with the

to the product information

medicines require a burden

and pending Regulation both

requirements, which is essential

documentation required by

of proof that is different

have safety at their core,

because, as the saying goes,

the existing Directive, but

from that of cosmetics, it is

there are sufficient differences

failing to prepare means

which will be much more

fair to note that some parts

between the two to create

preparing to fail. PHM

demanding in practice. The PIF

of the cosmetics industry

real problems for some

will necessitate a more detailed

are not immune to making

manufacturers and, certainly,

assessment of product safety,

exaggerated and even eluded

there will be some products

and minimum qualification

to claims on behalf of their

that are legally sold now that

of the person performing

products. The new regulation

will not be permitted for sale

the assessment. Overall, the

attempts to address this to

unless more is done. That

documentation supporting

some extent by requiring

need not mean reformulation

a product’s formulation and

substantiating data as part of

(although it may in some

the means of manufacture is

the PIF. Certain claims, such as

cases), but it will certainly

going to increase substantially.

the eyelash thickening effect of

mean notification, with all

There is no doubt that some

a mascara, or the efficacy of an

that this implies. There will be

2011 summer

For more information

Lyndsey Wright RSSL Science and Technology Centre University of Reading Earley Gate, Whiteknights Road Reading RG6 6BZ, UK. Tel. +44 118 935 7346 pharma.training@rssl.com www.rssl.com

regulatory issues

for Genotoxicity Assessment According to the European Union Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC, all ingredients and final formulations of cosmetics and personal care products must be analysed for genotoxicity — the potential for a compound to cause mutations or chromosomal damage and therefore increase the risk of cancer. While calling for this genotoxicity testing, the EU legislation is also seeking to reduce animal (in vivo) testing in all aspects of cosmetic development ahead of the complete ban

The Regulatory Landscape

or reasonably foreseeable

final formulation and ingredients

conditions of use.”¹ To enforce

— or combinations of ingredients

All new ingredients and products

these safety conditions, the EU

— of cosmetic products that

that come into contact with

Cosmetics Directive legislation

have been tested on animals,

humans must be tested for

came into force in 1976 and has

regardless of whether a validated

with the need to maximize

genotoxicity. The European Union

been continuously evolving.

alternative method is available.²

consumer safety, has led the

Cosmetics Directive defines a

Since its inception there have

This deadline was extended

cosmetics and personal care

cosmetic as “any substance

been step-wise abolitions of

to March 2013 for longer term

or preparation intended to be

animal testing, leading to its

tests concerning repeated dose

placed in contact with the various

complete ban in the testing of

toxicity, reproductive toxicity

external parts of the human

final formulation of cosmetic

and toxicokinetics, as a result

approaches to predict likely

body or with the teeth and the

products in September 2004,

of the acknowledgement that

in vivo genotoxic liabilities. As

mucous membranes of the oral

although the European cosmetics

there were no alternatives under

cavity, with a view to cleaning

industry had already begun

consideration at that time. The

them, perfuming them, changing

to move away from testing on

Cosmetics Directive’s in-market

their appearance, correcting

animals and look to alternative

control principles make it the

with practical, reliable and

body odours, protecting them

methods; in the UK animal testing

obligation of manufacturers,

accurate testing capabilities

or keeping them in good

of cosmetic products had ceased

distributors and importers to

are being developed

condition.”¹ Cosmetic products

by the late 1990s. The most recent

ensure safety requirements

placed on the EU market must

amendments to the legislation

are satisfied before cosmetic

be safe; that is, they “must not

have wider implications, evident

products reach the shelves.³

cause damage to human health

in the introduction in March 2009

Compliance with these

when applied under normal

of a ban on the marketing of both

regulations is controlled by the

due to come into force in March 2013. This legislative drive for the cessation of animal testing, coupled

industry to seek increasingly accurate cell-based (in vitro)

such, a number of validated alternative in vitro assays

to ensure the safety of ingredients, formulations and final cosmetic products.

summer 2011

regulatory issues compared with the outcome of

based on structural attributes of

rodent carcinogenicity studies;

the molecule, so called

more than 70% of the non-

‘in silico’ methods, may also be

carcinogenic agents tested

informative, particularly for the

innovation and development

were scored as mutagenic

analysis of impurities present at

will be severely curtailed and

or genotoxic by the standard

low concentrations; if these tests

potential revenue lost.

in vitro tests. The specificity of

prove negative, then no further

the in vitro mammalian cell

assessment is required.

cosmetic ingredients. Without suitable alternatives, product

Developing New In Vitro Tests for the Cosmetics Industry

tests is particularly low in some

Although there is a test panel

than 50% of non-carcinogens.

The Importance of Innovation and Knowledge Transfer

of regulatory approved in

Importantly, for some chemical

Rapid, accurate, high throughput

vitro assays already in place,

classes such as aromatic amines,

assays initially developed for

a number of weaknesses in

of which hair dye ingredients

the genotoxic screening of

these genotoxicity tests have

comprise a significant number

pharmaceutical drug candidates

been highlighted in several

and variety, the specificity of

might readily be applied to

major studies.⁴ The current

the standard in vitro tests is even

the analysis of new cosmetics

assays are recognized as

lower, rendering them essentially

ingredients and personal care

national or regional competent

having low specificity — the

uninformative.

products. GreenScreen HC and

authorities in the EU Member

ability to correctly identify

States.

non-carcinogens — causing

positive results that occur in the

generation cultured human cell

a high rate of misleading

pharmaceutical industry can

assays that overcome the low

studies will not be permitted for

positive results. A detailed

be followed by in vivo studies;

specificity issues experienced

follow-up assessments of positive in

analysis of published results on

the ban on this type of testing

with the current regulatory in vitro

vitro findings, there is an increasing

almost 1000 diverse chemicals

for cosmetics, however, triggers

tests without compromising on

urgency to develop and validate

highlighted the high sensitivity

the urgent demand for new and

sensitivity or speed. Accessed via

more accurate and suitable in

but poor specificity of the current

more accurate approaches

kit-based products or outsourced

vitro testing methods to assess

genotoxicity test battery when

to determine genotoxicity

services, the assays have a low

and carcinogenicity prior to

compound requirement, rapid

the enforcement of the EU 7th

turnaround time, detect all

Amendment Directive in 2013.

mechanistic classes of genotoxin

The commercial implications of

and have been shown as highly

misleading positive results can

predictive of in vivo genotoxicity

be costly and cause delays

and genotoxic carcinogenesis.

Because in vivo genotoxicity

Genotoxicity: A Screening Challenge

During the early stages of the product development process, the focus should be on hazard assessment in novel ingredients. As such, the tests employed need a high degree of specificity, providing confidence that safe chemicals are not misclassified as toxic and potentially valuable ingredients and final products are not needlessly rejected. However, in the latter stages of product development the focus should switch to safety assessment. At this point, assays that replace in vivo tests need a high degree of sensitivity, providing confidence that carcinogens will be detected and exposure to them thereby limited. Ideally, an alternative in vitro genotoxicity assay would exhibit both high specificity and high sensitivity in the identification of potential genotoxic carcinogens. There are a number of different types of genetic damage, arising through a broad range of mechanisms — chromosomes can be broken (clastogenesis), the information within the DNA sequence itself might become altered or rearranged (mutagenesis), whole chromosomes might be mis-segregated (aneugenesis), or there can be interchange of sections of chromosomes, which can alter gene regulation. Such diverse outcomes are the result of the large number of different modes of action through which genotoxicity can occur; ranging, for example, from direct oxidative DNA damage to interference with the myriad processes of DNA replication and repair. Owing to the broad nature of the mechanisms involved, no single assay in the current battery of accepted tests can cover all known genotoxic liabilities and mechanisms. Therefore the creation and validation of a series, or ‘battery,’ of assays that do not require in vivo confirmation, but have a higher relevance to human exposure, has been a key challenge for the industry.³ There are, however, well established genotoxicity screening tools currently used within the pharmaceutical industry that can be applied to cosmetics ingredients.

compound collections, presenting misleading positive results for more

Misleading or conflicting

in product development, the

BlueScreen HC are two new

Key to these new assays is

instigation of further mechanistic

the use of the human TK6 cell

studies or, ultimately, the rejection

line. In contrast to many other

of a useful novel ingredient that

tumour-derived cell lines, it has a

may actually be safe for use as

normal p53 gene — the so called

part of a personal care product.

‘guardian of the genome.’ This

With regard to advice on

means it has the proper capacity

assessing cosmetic ingredients,

to recognize and repair genome

the European Commission

damage, which in turn provides

governs an expert panel known

a more accurate representation

as the Scientific Committee on

of the likely outcome of human

Consumer Safety (SCCS), which

exposure to the ingredient or

provides opinions on safety

product being tested — that

risks and recommends a basic

is, both high sensitivity and

battery of tests to examine the

high specificity.¹ Cell lines that

genotoxic potential of cosmetic

are not p53 competent can

ingredients. The current battery of

be hypersensitive and do not

tests includes two tests for gene

accurately reflect the behaviour

mutation — the bacterial reverse

of normal mammalian cells when

mutation or ‘Ames’ test and an

responding to DNA damage. p53

in vitro gene mutation assay in

is also required for programmed

mammalian cells — and a test for

cell death (apoptosis), the point at

clastogenicity and aneugenicity

which the capacity of the cell to

using the in vitro micronucleus

cope with the level of genotoxic

test (MNT). In addition, computer

challenge is exceeded. The assays

software that predicts toxicity

detect increased expression of the

summer 2011

GADD45a gene, a key element in the cell’s inherent response to DNA damage and genotoxic stress. GADD45a expression is linked to the production of either a jellyfish

economically,

green fluorescent protein (GFP)

part

in the GreenScreen HC assay or,

of an

in the case of the BlueScreen HC

overall

assay, it is linked to an enzyme

assessment of

derived from the shrimp-like

safety. For example,

copepod Gaussia princeps

if a compound only

that produces luminescence.

produces positive results at

The GADD45a protein modifies

very high concentrations, then

DNA accessibility in damaged

it is clearly not a potent genotoxin

chromatin and associates with

and might be acceptable if only

nuclear factors connected to

present in trace amounts.

adapting the protocols to suit the particular properties and availability of the chemicals being tested. New generation screening supplied for analysis; the testing of other compounds

assays have been developed with protocols able to accommodate the potentially confounding effects of the physical properties

in the same chemical class, or

of the test sample, a challenge

known analogues to confirm the

of particular note within the

breadth of the genotoxic activity;

personal care industry. For

target of p53 and has key roles in

When Can these Assays be Applied?

the selection or development

example, regarding a luminescent

cell cycle regulation, DNA repair

This new generation of

of alternative compounds or

endpoint, the BlueScreen HC

and programmed cell death.

genotoxicity tests is particularly

formulations; the modification

assay is particularly adept at

As such, GADD45a is implicated

useful at two main stages of

of the chemistry or formulation;

as an important component of

product development: first, owing

or simply the prioritization of the

the pathways that contribute to

to high specificity and sensitivity,

compound for follow up tests, for

the maintenance of genomic

the new mammalian assays

example the regulatory tests or

stability following genotoxic stress,

provide advance warning of any

mechanistic investigations.

which is reflected in its increased

genotoxicity issues, essentially

expression following exposure

‘de-risking’ a product. Second, as

rapid uptake of these assays, they

to mutagens, clastogens and

high throughput tests that require

are still relatively new and it will

aneugens.

very small quantities of compound

be some time before they gain

(10 mg or less), they also offer

full regulatory acceptance and

latest in vitro screening assays

the opportunity to screen

recommendation. As such, they

creates less than 5% ‘falsely

large numbers of compounds,

are usually operated outside a

positive’ predictions of genotoxic

generating an efficient ‘hazard

strictly controlled and accredited

carcinogenic hazard, a significant

testing’ process, which allows time

GLP environment. This pre-GLP

improvement when compared

for the results to be responded to.

positioning is actually an

with the existing mammalian cell

A positive result for an ingredient

advantage, allowing

assays,ensuring that a positive

during these early stages of

the assays to

result acts as a clear hazard

product development may initiate

be applied

warning to product developers.¹ It

one of the following responses:

more rapidly,

is however, important to consider

an investigation of the purity and

flexibly and

positive genotoxicity test results as

stability of the batch compound

cell cycle regulation. It was the first gene to be identified as a

The high specificity of these

2011 summer

Despite the recognition and

regulatory issues the cells. S9 is derived

all the available data can help

from liver cell extracts

determine if further testing is

and contains enzymes

needed at all, or whether follow

used by the cell to

up tests are required to fill in any

detoxify chemicals,

data gaps.

but that in some cases produce genotoxins from otherwise nongenotoxic chemicals. Genotoxicity testing

Taking Care of the Personal Care Industry Genotoxicity assays based

is often not limited to principal

on the GADD45a reporter

analysing samples with very high

ingredients such as the active

gene provide an opportunity

auto-fluorescence, commonly

chemical agents, oils, fillers,

to identify compounds with

found in cosmetic ingredients.

colours, flavours and fragrances,

misleading positive data from

Furthermore, flow cytometry

but can also encompass residual

other tests that might actually

can be effectively applied to

solvents, impurities, degradation

be safe. This in turn can make

particulate or coloured materials

products and leachates from

investment in mechanistic studies

and the use of solvents such as

packaging and coatings.

more worthwhile, and provide

dimethylsulfoxide, ethanol and

Another key application

strategies to effectively replace

acetonitrile in cell-based assays

for the new mammalian cell-

in vivo cosmetics testing without

permits their application for

based assays is in the provision

compromising safety. Proven

compounds with low aqueous

of reassurance — building the

to provide the sensitivity and

solubility. Both the GreenScreen HC

case, or the ‘weight of evidence,’

high specificity required by the

and BlueScreen HC assays can also

for the safe use of a compound

personal care industry, these

be conducted in the presence of

later in its development, or

assays are becoming widely

‘S9’ fraction to detect so called

alternatively, confirming the

accepted as robust genotoxicity

pro-genotoxins, that is chemicals

relevance of a second positive

tools that can play a significant

that produce genotoxic species

result in a ‘first tier’ in vitro

role in addressing the absence of

when metabolically processed by

genotoxicity test. Weighing up

A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1

07.09.2010

15:23 Uhr

animal data by 2013. PHM

Seite 3

References

1. http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/ sectors/cosmetics/glossary/index_ en.htm. 2. Journal of the European Union (2003), 23.6.1993, p 32. 3. www.colipa.eu/safety-a-sciencecolipa-the-european-cosmeticcosmetics-association.html. 4. R.D. Snyder and J.W. Green, Mutation Research 488, 151–169 (2001). 5. S. Pfuhler, et al., Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 57, 315–324 (2010). 6. D. Kirkland, et al., Mutation Research 584, 1–256 (2005). 7. D.J. Tweats, et al., Mutagenesis 22, 5–13 (2007). 8. http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_ committees/consumer_safety/ index_en.htm. 9. R.M. Walmsley, Expert Opinion in Drug Discovery 4, 827–835 (2008). 10. P.W. Hastwell, et al., Mutation Research 607, 160–175 (2006).

For more information

Dr Andrew Knight, Commercial Services Manager, Gentronix info@gentronix.co.uk www.gentronix.co.uk

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com

antiageing

The Importance of a Slow Approach to Health and Ageing

growing industry,

has surrounded it with an air

counterweight to consumerism

diet, physical activity and our

which peddles all

of superficiality and, in many

and mass production, perceiving

environment play a key role, and

things cosmetic

cases, a poor reputation. The

food, travel, work or relationships

choices concerning them must be

to avoid the

snake oil salesmen often arrive

as ends in themselves. It has

accorded sufficient importance. A

inevitable,

with emerging fields and many

engaged a rapidly growing group

possible solution is to focus on slow

has been built on consumer

companies feed on fear with

of people who have lost patience

products.

desire to turn back the clock.

claims that their products are

with the latest fads and quick

Conventional thinking about

able to ‘turn back the clock’

fixes. The movement encourages

Slow Ageing ‘Results’

ageing breeds enormous fear,

or prevent ageing altogether.

individuals to take time to establish

When assessing the capacity

typically associating it with

In an increasingly transparent

connections with any product and

of any treatment or product

disempowerment, decrepitude

society, driven by social media

savour its qualities. Different groups

to solve a problem, it is logical

and decline. The trick is not to

and value, such companies are

have used the acronym slow. slow

to establish markers of success

buy into this, instead reframing

actually doing their customers,

foods are those that are

and obtain feedback about

our thinking to consider ageing

and themselves, a disservice.

• Sustainable: having no

whether these are being

as a time of new possibilities to be

We chose to move away from

enjoyed in great health. Less than

the term ‘antiageing’ and

a century ago, the typical lifespan

coin a phrase that was value

was 60; today this age confronts

led, positive, empowering and

us with roughly another 30 years

that we hoped would come

of life. Imagine the products and

to represent a sustainable and

• Whole: rather than processed.

approach will not necessarily

services that will be consumed

credible approach to slowing the

Discerning buyers wishing to

be effective when applied to

and utilized — the potential

ageing process and reinvesting

make value informed choices

specific ageing markers. Ageing

access to new medical treatments

the ageing journey with a value

now look to slow products as a

is a multifactorial process and

and therapies. This increasingly

proposition.

possible answer; a movement

there are innumerable things

that is reflected in the success

that could be measured,

of organic produce, fair trade

such as disease risk markers,

and sustainable manufacturing

body composition, quality of

practices. These principles can be

life, nutrition and hormone

procrastinating about age-related

applied to health and ageing; life

levels. Which factors should be

Antiageing versus Slow Ageing

decisions or waiting until problems

should not be something that, akin

measured and, furthermore,

occur before acting; slow has a

to fast food, is merely consumed.

which should take precedence

As a technical term, antiageing

very specific meaning — taking

Increasingly, people are seeking

in the monitoring process? That

has some merit. It is actually

time to extract the greatest

an alternative to fast living and

which we measure today will

an important area of scientific

possible value from any product

the opportunity to value their

change tomorrow — there is

medical endeavour; but, its

or activity. The slow movement,

choices in a holistic way. Many

the risk of realizing in the future

frequent association with

bearing the tagline “it’s about

hallmarks of disease and ageing

that what has previously been

unscientific ‘quick fix’ practices

the journey,” has developed as a

are a result of lifestyle choices;

measured is in fact irrelevant.

complex environment will be of how individuals should make

What is Slow Ageing?

informed choices.

slow

accompanied by the challenge

ageing does not mean

environmental impact • Local: involving a relationship with local producers • Organic: as opposed to massproduced

modulated, as is traditionally undertaken in the treatment of disease. However, a lack of scientific consensus about what constitutes them means that this

summer 2011

Upon approaching a certain age it becomes obvious that ageing — or antiageing — is the only game in town! Although anyone around the age of 50 will understand why the antiageing industry is growing at a rate of knots, would it not be fantastic if individuals were able to embrace ageing as a process to be enjoyed rather than feared? “Fast Living, Slow Ageing” presents the case for embracing ageing as a positive experience to be enjoyed in good health. Rather than acting as a quick fix, the concept of

slow

ageing is concerned with

the maintenance of healthy function and the prevention of disease; it is about ageing in the right way and at the right pace for us as individuals. As an alternative measurement of success, we have developed a means of navigating healthy ageing via the development of a philosophy and a set of guiding principles, encapsulated in our slow

acronym:

• Strategic: becoming aware and actively planning to make critical decisions • Long-term: persisting in the philosophy for a lifetime • Organized: implementing a plan against measurable objectives and investing effort in successful interventions • Wilful: undertaking actions and choices with full consciousness of their nature and effects. There are many different ways to take a slow ageing approach. Common to them all are seven

control and, regardless of initial

expectations, the greater the

nutritionally wicked and successful

key, or ‘ageless,’ principles, which

success, will inevitably fail as

likelihood of satisfaction.

exercise is not a punishment for

apply as much to individuals as to

compliance wanes.

Step 3: slow solutions work to

the excesses of the night before.

product and service providers.

Step 2: slow solutions have clear

eliminate the negative and

Interventions must be enjoyed

Step 1: slow solutions demand

and realistic goals, set objectives

accent the positive. Poor

to really work. “Getting old” is

awareness and engagement

that match personal aims and

health and disease are often

posited by the antiageing industry

and are designed for people

capabilities and do not equate

accompanied by feelings of guilt

as something that, if not avoided

who are awake to the benefits of

to an aimless meander. It involves

and prompt questions such as

at all costs, should at the very

making informed decisions. slow

taking stock of one’s current

“Did I cause this by something I

least be disguised. This cycle is

intervention is differentiated by

position and being realistic in

did or didn’t do?” In addition, it is

ultimately counterproductive as

self-awareness and an intrinsic

the health planning process; the

often believed that suffering is the

real or perceived failure can lead

desire for education and growth.

most frequent complaint about

necessary price of good health, a

to nihilism and/or denial. slow

A useful example is to be found in

any health intervention does not

distasteful medicine swallowed to

ageing seeks to redefine ageing

weight loss; meal replacements

relate to side-effects, but rather

stay well. However, slow solutions

as a positive ‘growth’ experience,

are not a slow solution for weight

unfulfilled expectations. The

should not be punitive; successful

rather than an inevitable decline

reduction as they do not teach

more specific and concrete the

diets are not a punishment for the

into decrepitude. Attitude is the

2011 summer

antiageing

SLOW solutions are long-term solutions to long-term problems; they are never a quick fix and can usually be separated from the fads that claim to deliver impressive results in a short space of time. single most important factor

achievable. Regardless of what

behavioural, cultural and

Time to Step Up

in healthy ageing — a positive

the advertising says, ‘one only,’

socioeconomic factors.

The modern consumer is

attitude promotes healthy

miracle ‘cure alls’ do not exist.

Step 6:

spoilt for choice and they

behaviour and ensures control

For example, diet, exercise and

support. Although slow means

are always on the lookout for

over choices.

medication may all have positive

assuming control and placing

ways to choose, or purchase,

Step 4: slow solutions are

and long-lasting effects on the

the individual at the core of the

more strategically. The best

long-term solutions for long-term

management of diabetes — the

process, it is still helpful to have a

products are those that provide

problems; they are never a quick

question of which is foremost

coach who can help individuals

value, in particular when they

fix and can usually be separated

is immaterial and confusing;

to organize their thoughts and

complement the value system of

from the fads that claim to

there are many small answers

explore the many and varied

the consumer. In the health and

deliver impressive results in a

and ‘low hanging fruit’ that

available options. Ultimately, the

well-being industry in particular,

short space of time. There is little

combine to produce significant

most successful programmes

there is a clear opportunity to

point buying into diets, joining

results. Some interventions will

involve a close relationship with

engage with the consumer

a gym and only going once or

not have universal success; to

a coach, be they a doctor,

on shared values, be they

receiving medical advice that is

sell exclusivity implies failure

dietician, trainer, motivator,

environmental, social, personal

then not followed. Although such

in the case of individuals

friend or family.

principles or all of the above.

measures may appear to be

who choose not to attempt

Step 7: slow solutions are

In fact, it is suspected that the

effective in the short-term, they

it or discontinue. There is

selective. Once upon a

health-conscious consumer

often rebound and result in an

an opportunity to promote

time, there was a young

is often more interested in the

individual feeling less in control

honesty with information such

girl called Goldilocks who,

morality of a product than

than ever. The best interventions

as: “This product will work for

when approached with a

someone who is not interested in

are easily incorporated into our

some people and can be life

challenge, resolved to explore

their health. PHM

routines on an ongoing basis;

changing. Do you want to see if

the alternatives and ultimately

solutions require

it can be you? Give it a go and

chose the one that best suited

than good habits and, with help,

see.” The complex challenges

her needs. A similar strategy can

these can be developed.

of health and well-being require

be applied to the treatment

Step 5: The slow approach

multimodal solutions that are

of ageing; there is no generic

is not an alternative, but

often most effective when

answer to the issues associated

a complement. It does

used in combination. It should

with it and it is not a bad idea

not advocate shunning

be remembered that ageing

to take a leaf out of Goldilocks’

technology and research, but

itself is not a wholly biological

book. A slow solution means

acknowledges the assistance

experience but a change

choosing the right thing, in the

that many different resources

that is complex and also

right dose, at the right pace and

can provide in making goals

determined by environmental,

sticking to it.

slow

solutions are seldom more

slow

For more information

Kate Marie (kate.marie@mileagemedia.com.au) and Dr Christopher Thomas Tel. +61 414 517 122 Fast Living, Slow Ageing is a health and wellness book, supported by scientific evidence, which is aimed at extending ‘healthspan’ and promoting healthy longevity by assisting the individual to make informed choices.

summer 2011

EcoSmooth™ Silk C o n d i t i o n i n g Po l y m e r Novel conditioner for the hair-care market Matches silicone in wet and dry hair combing Minimizes hair breakage Non-cationic hair conditioning Reinventing conditioning with a non-cationic conditioning technology that matches silicone in wet and dry combing and minimizes hair breakage.

www.EcoSmoothSilk.com

r e i n v e n t

®™Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company (“Dow”) or an affiliated company of Dow

c o n d i t i o n i n g

™

antiageing

with Three Peptides

As a result of a variety of environmental, hormonal and genetic factors, mature skin decreases in elasticity and becomes less able to resist any deformation. This leads to many of the visible manifestations of ageing.1

kin elasticity is a

disintegration of elastic fibres

activity and slow elastogenesis

in type IV collagen, proteoglycans

mechanical property

and reduced levels of elastin and

result in decreased elasticity,

and both entactin and laminin

influenced by the skin

collagen, which results in the loss

which manifests itself as sagging,

glycoproteins, which provide

protein, elastin, which,

of its three-dimensional integrity.Â˛

unfirmed and wrinkled skin.

a structural network and the

together with collagen

Elastic fibres are degraded by

The dermoepidermal junction

bioadhesive properties necessary

and glycosaminoglycans, forms

a number of different enzymes,

(DEJ) is a membrane that

for cell attachment. Certain

the connective tissue. Aged skin

including neutrophil elastase,

constitutes the basal and the

features of the DEJ, such as the

shows general atrophy of the

MMP-12 and skin fibroblast

reticular lamina, in contact with

anchoring ability of keratinocytes,

extracellular matrix (ECM), the

elastase.Âł An increase in elastase

the ECM. The basal lamina is rich

are altered by the ageing process â&#x20AC;&#x201D; probably as a result of deficiencies in the expression of integrins as we age. After collagen, laminin is the most abundant protein in the ECM and is involved in processes such as cell proliferation, migration and adhesion. Laminin-5 synthesis decreases with age, leading to a loss of contact between the dermis and epidermis and resulting in skin elasticity loss and sagginess. By interacting with collagen and influencing collagen fibrillogenesis, proteoglycan decorin regulates its bundle-like aggregation. The decrease in functional decorin that accompanies skin ageing

Figure 1: Inhibition of human neutrophil elastase activity.

results in disrupted collagen fibres and thus a reduction in the tensile strength of the skin. To address the problems associated with mature skin, Lipotec has developed three peptides: Relistase is a tetrapeptide that possesses skin elasticity and tightness enhancement properties; Serilesine is a hexapeptide sequence from the alpha chain of laminin-1 that retains characteristics of the native protein and promotes cell adhesion and proliferation; lastly, Decorinyl is a tetrapeptide mimic of the binding sequences decorin. This targets collagen fibre organization, ensures fibril diameter uniformity and, owing to the better cohesion of collagen fibres, increases skin

Figure 2: Overall elasticity of the skin.

suppleness.

summer 2011

measuring the amount of labelled

echograph, Dermascan C 2D. After

a decrease in the variability of

antibody bound to the matrix

54 days, the cream containing

collagen fibril diameters and an

(using a colorimetric substrate).

Serilesine induced a long-term

increase in their uniformity, thus

The peptide increased type I

redensifying effect of 19%.

increasing skin suppleness and

collagen synthesis induction by

Histochemical Study of Human Skin

helping to establish and maintain

99% in human dermal fibroblast cell

Biopsies: Skin biopsies from three

its mechanical properties and

cultures at 21 µM.

volunteers were evaluated before

morphology. A combination

Cutaneous Elasticity and Tightness

and after a 2 month treatment with

of these three peptides could

Evaluation: A panel of 20 volunteers

a cosmetic formulation containing

be a good antiageing strategy

applied a cream containing a 4%

0.01% Decorinyl. The collagen fibril

for cosmetic formulations

Relistase solution or a placebo on

diameter was measured using TEM

looking to improve skin elasticity,

their thighs twice a day for 8 weeks.

(Figure 3). The average decrease in

compactness, tonicity and

Skin elasticity was determined at

the standard deviation of collagen

smoothness, especially when

T0, T4 and T8. The cream containing

fibril diameters was 9.63%, implying a

targeting mature skin. PHM

Relistase significantly improved

higher uniformity of collagen fibrils.

overall elasticity by 11.7% and 14%

Measurement of Skin Suppleness:

(Figure 2) and decreased maximal

A cream containing Decorinyl (5%)

deformation values by -5.5% and

was applied by 22 volunteers to

-15.6% after 4 and 8 weeks of

the temple for 28 days on a daily

treatment.

basis. Another group was treated

Ex Vivo Histochemical Study

with a placebo. Variations in skin

of Human Skin Biopsies:

suppleness were measured at

Laminin-5 and α6-integrin

the beginning and after 28 days.

A Review of Studies Undertaken

expression was determined by

Decorinyl induced a 54% increase in

immunohistochemistry in skin

skin suppleness, an effect that was

Inhibition of Human Neutrophil

biopsies of three volunteers before

observed in 95% of the volunteers.

Elastase: The fluorescence released

and after a 2 month treatment

by the fluorogenic elastase

with a cream containing 10%

Conclusions

substrate V when digested by

Serilesine solution. Laminin-5 and

Relistase was seen to cause

human neutrophil elastase was

integrin expression increased by

improved skin elasticity and

monitored. The tetrapeptide

an average of 305% and 405%,

tightness in vivo and inhibit excess

demonstrated dose-response

respectively.

elastase activity in vitro; moreover,

inhibition, showing an elastase

Evaluation of Dermis Density: A

it also exhibited collagen boosting

inhibition of 86% at 500 µM (Figure 1).

panel of 20 volunteers applied a

properties. Serilesine helped to

Type I Collagen Induction in

cream containing a 10% Serilesine

restore normal skin function by

Human Dermal Fibroblasts:

solution to one side of the face and

promoting laminin-5 and integrin

Collagen induction by Relistase

a placebo on the other, twice daily,

expression and inducing a

was evaluated using an ELISA

for 54 days. Measurements were

redensifying effect in the dermis.

Assay that was quantified by

done using the high frequency

Decorinyl was seen to cause

Figure 3: TEM micrographs of dermal collagen (skin biopsies of volunteer 1).

References

1. L. Pons Gimier and J.L. Parra Juez, “Ciencia Cosmética. Bases Fisiológicas y Criterios Prácticos,” Consejo General de Colegios Oficiales de Farmacéuticos (1995). 2. U . Saarialho-Kere et al., “Accumulation of Matrilysin (MMP-7) and Macrophage Metalloelastase (MMP12) in Actinic Damage,” J. Invest. Dermatol. 113(4), 664–672 (1999). 3. E.F. Bernstein, et al., “Long-Term Sun Exposure Alters the Collagen of the Papillary Dermis,” J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 34, 209–218 (1996).

For more information

Míriam Mateu and Elena Cañadas Lipotec SA Isaac Peral 17 Poligon Camí Ral E-08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain. Tel. +34 93 638 8000 www.lipotec.com

Registered Office Editorial Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin.robinson@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591 Assitant Editor Charlotte Hodgson charlotte.hodgson@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 130 Sales General Manager/Publisher Miranda Docherty miranda.docherty@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 122

Art Art Director/Production Paul Andrews paul.andrews@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 126 Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day claire.day@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129 Circulation Circulation Manager info@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine is free to qualified readers. Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details).

Sales Executive Gill Healy gill.healy@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 128

Via Media UK Limited Managing Director Simon Jones simon.jones@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131

Sales Executive Heba Hassanatou heba.hassantou@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 127

Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin.robinson@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 59

Via Media UK Ltd 22 Highacre Dorking RH4 3BF, UK.

Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention. Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. Copyright © 2011, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 0LP, UK (ISSN: 2046-2735).

hair care

T s r i F e h

s many people

Many hair care products on the market are

the fundamental aspects of its

are aware, the

based on formulations and product ranges that

patented Omega Ceramide

skin is defined

technology. It sought to produce

as a cutaneous

are increasingly specialized, innovative and high

ecosystem

tech — similar in fact to products launched on

like” structure, capable of

the skincare market in recent years. As a result of

mimicking hair ceramides and,

comprising a dynamic, triple-action, protective structure

a molecule with a “ceramide-

when necessary, replacing them

of layers: a microbiological barrier

this, the Solabia Group, which to date has focused

(or ecoflora), a physical barrier (or

on the three skin barriers, intends to diversify its

and restore cohesion to the

stratum corneum) and a biological

range by targeting hair care.

cuticle. Rep’Hair is a ceramide-

Less widely known is the existence

aggressors. In turn, this degradation

lipid-rich central shaft root area. In

obtained using a solvent-free

of a fourth barrier, which is essential

may cause the keratin fibres to

aesthetic terms, split ends manifest

green chemistry process from

for the well-being of the skin but

rupture and reduce the resistance

themselves as brittle hair that has

two saturated vegetal fatty

is, unfortunately, all too often

of the hair to tension, torsion and

a coarse ‘straw-like’ texture and is

acids: behenic (C22) and stearic

overlooked: the hair barrier. This

so on. As a consequence of the

difficult to style. The interstitial lipids

(C18) acids.

barrier should be more frequently

external aggression to which the

in the cuticle, such as ceramides,

discussed as it is in fact the first to be

hair is exposed, the quantity of

cannot be replaced naturally

exposed to the environment and its

lipids in the hair fibre is seen to

and must therefore be added

Preventive and Curative Actions

harmful consequences.

reduce from root to tip. Ceramide

using a cosmetic product; the

Owing to its ceramide-

content, for example, is 30% lower

ideal solution for restructuring and

like structure, Rep’Hair is

Lipid Loss and its Consequences

in the tip than in the root.

strengthening the hair fibre.

incorporated into the failing

The deterioration of the hair cuticle

shaft region towards the tip causes

is caused, on a daily basis, by

barrier (or epidermis and dermis).

A lack of lipids in the central

to restructure the hair cement

like molecule (Figure 1) that is

lipid cement of the hair fibre to restore the cohesion of

the hair to become more sensitive

A Ceramide-Like Molecule

repeated colouring or bleaching,

to rupture; a sensitivity that is less

Research by the Solabia

By reinforcing the cortex and

perming or straightening,

marked in the comparatively

Group has been based on

smoothing the hair fibre, using

the cuticle and the cortex.

shampooing, drying and brushing,

curative action to reconnect

which combine with external

the scales, Rep’Hair can

factors — such as UV rays, wind,

enhance the gloss of the hair

chlorine, sand and salt — to leave

shaft and increase its resistance

the hair dull and porous. These

— preventing future splitting

varied factors work to gradually

and breaking (Figure 2). Used

remove lipids — such as sterols,

at a low percentage, Rep’Hair

fatty acids, cholesterol sulphate

has an immediate effect

and ceramides — from the cuticle,

that is visible in both rinse off

which consequently becomes

and leave on applications.

permeable and fails to protect

The active provides an

the cortex. This results in the

effective, preventive and

breakdown of the lipid and protein

curative response, either as an

components of the cortex, owing to direct exposure to external

intensive treatment (such as a

Figure 1: Comparison between ceramide structure and Rep’Hair’s molecule.

concentrated product or mask)

summer 2011

successive applications could further enhance the resistance of the hair, particularly considering that daily styling routines are less harsh than those applied under study conditions. This action of Rep’Hair can be explained by its ability to strengthen the cuticle, which then resumes its protective role vis-à-vis the cortex, preventing the denaturing of its components and connecting bond. These factors guarantee

Figure 2: Mechanism of Rep’Hair’s action.

the resistance of the hair.

Health, Strength and Gloss In summary, Rep’Hair offers multiple benefits as a curative treatment for brittle, split, dry, coarse, dull hair that is difficult to style, in addition to providing a preventive protection to healthy hair against daily aggression. In line with the human health concerns of the Solabia Group, Rep’Hair is considered to be non-toxic by oral exposure,

Figure 3: In a leave on conditioner, Rep’Hair reduces the damage caused to Caucasian hair by a double bleaching process (chemical aggression), compared with a placebo and an untreated control.

Figure 4: In a rinse off conditioner, Rep’Hair reduces the damage caused to Caucasian hair by a double bleaching process (chemical aggression), compared with a placebo and an untreated control.

non-irritating to the skin, of negligible irritation to the eyes and is neither a sensitizer nor a mutagen. Furthermore, Rep’Hair exemplifies the sustainability

The Fight Against Hair Breakage and Split Ends

development policy of the

An ex vivo study that mimicked

renewable vegetal sources,

the severe effects of combing

using a green chemistry

or UV rays and to chemical

Hair Gloss Improvement

(mechanical aggression) reveals

process; it thus conforms to the

changes brought about by

An ex vivo study to prove

that after a single rinse off

Ecocert standard. PHM

colouring products and styling.

Rep’Hair’s effect on gloss

application, treatment with 0.2%

or in daily applications (such as

the cuticle is smoother and,

a shampoo or protective hair

as a result, the cortex is better

care product) for naturally dry

protected (Figures 3 and 4).

or mature hair, exposed to the effects of sand, wind, chlorine

enhancement was performed

Rep’Hair significantly enhances

Reduction of Damage and Surface Relief

on Caucasian hair locks cleaned

the hair’s resistance to external

using a 10% sodium lauryl

aggression with immediate

A ex vivo study performed

ether sulfate solution (a typical

effect. After combing, broken

on damaged hair highlights

aggressive shampoo surfactant).

hair and split ends were reduced

Rep’Hair’s repairing potential

After a single rinse off application,

by 71% and 56%, respectively,

in both leave on and rinse off

treatment with 0.2% Rep’Hair

compared with the control

applications. A single rinse off

significantly enhanced the gloss

(p<0.05) and 62% and 43%,

or leave on application of 0.2%

of the hair — by 22% — with

respectively, in comparison

Rep’Hair significantly decreases

immediate effect compared

with the placebo (p<0.05).

(p<0.05) hair damage in

with the placebo, owing to a

Therefore, Rep’Hair can be said

comparison with the placebo;

reduction in the aforementioned

to prevent the hair from splitting

lipid cement gaps are replenished,

surface irregularities.

and breaking. It is assumed that

2011 summer

company, delivering an active ingredient derived from

Reference

1. I. Duvel, et al., “Analysis of Hair Lipids and Tensile Properties as a Function of Distance from Scalp,” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 27, 193–197 (2005).

For more information

Lia Receveur Product Manager Solabia Group lia.receveur@solabia.fr Tel. +33 1 4810 1940

sun care

Sunscreen Products

Many personal care products are formulated according to local requirements; even brands that have a global presence often use different formulations to meet the particular market trends, consumer preferences and regulations of different countries or regions. However, an increasing number of companies is seeking to create global formulations that can be marketed anywhere in the world. For multinationals, the advantages of this are obvious: reduced raw material inventories, a simplified supply chain and ease of technology transfer between plants in different parts of the world. It can also help to encourage brand loyalty as the travelling consumer can find the same product, with the same formulation, in different countries. For larger contract manufacturers, having global formulations in their portfolio can increase the potential for export contracts. When it comes to sun care products, however, variations in the regulations that govern them result in unique challenges when attempting to achieve global formulations. This article examines these differences, and discusses some possible strategies for overcoming them.

he biggest limitation

of titanium dioxide with butyl

those required by regulation.

in formulating a

methoxydibenzoylmethane. Such

SPF testing methods are

global sunscreen

combinations are widely used

broadly similar around the

minimum Boots star rating is now

system is the fact that

elsewhere and it is to be hoped

world, although there are some

3-star, which requires an in vitro

different countries

that when the monograph is

differences that can have a

UVA/UVB absorbance ratio of

or regions have different lists of

finalized, it will be permitted. As

significant impact on results.

at least 0.60. Japan still uses the

permitted UV filters, a problem

yet, however, there has been

Effective UVA protection is also

in vivo PPD method to measure

that is added to by the fact that

no clear indication of when this

a prerequisite for any modern

UVAPF, with three performance

several filters are proprietary

finalized monograph will be

sun protection product and it

ratings — PA+, PA++, PA+++ —

to one manufacturer and not

published.

is in this area that test methods

according to the value measured.

and performance criteria vary

This testing and labelling regime is

much more from one region to

also applied in a number of other

account, there is a list of just

Product Performance

another. In Europe, the European

Asian countries.

ten globally approved UV filters

Of course, while working within

Commission Recommendation

(Table I).1 There are additional

the restrictions outlined above,

of 22 September 2006 laid out

modifications to the Sunscreen

restrictions, the most significant

the formulator must still create

guidelines for UVA protection; the

Monograph, published in 2007,

of which is that the current

a product that meets efficacy

UVA protection factor (measured

include a regime for UVA testing

version of the FDA Monograph

requirements — both those

either in vivo by the Persistent

and labelling that includes two

does not allow the combination

established by marketing and

Pigment Darkening method, or

methods:

by a recognized in vitro method)

• in vivo PPD method to measure

available to anyone else. When these restrictions are taken into

should be at least one third of the labelled SPF and the critical

Table I: Globally approved UV filters and maximum allowed concentrations (% w/w).

In the USA, the FDA’s proposed

the UVAPF • in vitro measurement of the

wavelength should be a minimum

UVA-I/UV ratio; that is, the

of 370 nm.2 COLIPA subsequently

ratio between the average

developed in vitro test methods

absorbance in the UVA-I

to comply with these guidelines,

region (340–400 nm) and the

which have recently been

average absorbance across

revised.3 In the UK, the Boots Star

the whole UVB/UVA spectrum

Rating system, revised in 2008 to

(290-400 nm). 4

take account of the EU guidelines,

For each test, four performance

is still used. This means that the

levels are defined and denoted

summer 2011

wavelength UVA-II region (320–340

sunscreen simulator). It may well

nm). The best choices from those

be possible, however, to achieve

listed in Table I are octocrylene

this by optimizing the formulation

and benzophenone-3. The former

in the following ways:

has the additional advantage of

• i ncorporate photostabilizers to

helping to photostabilize BMDBM,

improve the photostability of the

an important consideration

BMDBM; this should enhance

as almost all UVA test

both in vivo SPF and UVAPF

methods now examine

•o ptimize the emollients for

the photostability of the

maximum solubility of the

formulation in some way.

organic filters; there are a

Benzophenone-3 is no

number of emollients currently

longer popular in Europe,

available on the markets that

as a small minority of

are designed specifically for this

people display sensitivity to it and preferable

purpose •a dd a film former or SPF Booster,

alternatives are available;

to produce a more even film on

it remains, however,

the skin; this enhances efficacy

widely used in the USA. A

across the whole UV spectrum.

further useful addition is phenylbenzimid-

Inorganic-Only Formulations

the water-soluble UVB filter, azolesulphonic acid (PBSA).

At present, zinc oxide is not on

Synergies can often be

the approved list of UV filters in

achieved by incorporating UV

Europe. It is an approved cosmetic

filters in the water phase as well

ingredient, still used in sunscreens

as in the oil phase, as this gives

in some countries, but which has

a better overall distribution of

been explicitly banned from use in

actives in the formulation and

sunscreens in Sweden. Therefore,

on the skin. A relatively small

the only global inorganic UV filter

addition of PBSA to a system

is titanium dioxide. Until recently,

containing oil-soluble filters can

TiO2 -only formulations typically

increase the SPF significantly.

failed to meet the required UVAPF/

Table II shows the results of

SPF ratio for the EU guidelines;

calculations, based on the active

however, a new generation

by a star rating; both tests must be

European UVA criteria, as any high

combination outlined above,

of TiO2 grades has now been

done and the labelled rating is the

SPF formulation that achieves this

using BASF’s Sunscreen Simulator

developed to meet these targets.

lower of the two results. However,

will also meet at least the minimum

(www.basf.com/sunscreen-

These grades, which I shall refer

these test methods remain the

criteria of other UVA rating systems.

simulator). This online tool allows

to in this article as “high UVA

subject of fierce debate and, until

the user to input concentrations of

TiO2,” are designed with a larger

UV filters and from these calculates

particle size than conventional

it remains uncertain whether the

Organic-Only Formulations

predicted SPF values and various

sunscreen grades of TiO2, thus

FDA will actually adopt these

The organic filters listed in Table I

UVA performance parameters.

shifting the absorption maximum

methods or some other protocol.

include only one true UVA filter —

Of course, with the multitude of

to a longer wavelength and giving

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

factors that affect the SPF, results

much enhanced UVA coverage.

Formulating Strategies

(BMDBM) — so its inclusion

from the sunscreen simulator can

This enables the formulation of

becomes essential if UVA

only give an approximate guide

high SPF products, which meet

In terms of the UV filters used, there

performance is to be achieved.

as to the likely performance of a

the EU UVA requirements, with a

are three basic approaches that

The maximum concentration that

particular combination, but this

single active ingredient. Figure 1

the formulator can take for any

can be used, to comply with all

author has found that, for organic-

displays in vivo SPF data for three

sunscreen product: organic-only,

global limits, is 3%. This restriction

only systems, the simulator results

formulations made using high UVA

inorganic-only or a combination

creates a challenge in meeting

often correlate quite well with

TiO2, with their corresponding UVA

of organics and inorganics. This

the performance targets; UVB

measured values.

ratings according to the EU, Boots,

section examines the viability of

filters must be added to achieve

each of these approaches for the

the target SPF values, but if the

Table II meet the minimum

creation of a globally approved,

concentration of UVB filters is too

UVA requirements stated in the

high SPF (30 or higher) sunscreen

high, it can be difficult to achieve

European guidelines. It was

product that meets at least the

the one third UVA criterion. It is

not possible to find a globally

Organic/Inorganic Combinations

minimum UVA performance

therefore preferable to use UVB

approved active combination

Owing to the well-documented

criteria for the various regions. In

filters that also provide some UVA

that meets these guidelines and

synergy that typically occurs when

practice, this means meeting the

protection, at least in the shorter-

delivers SPF50 (according to the

organic and inorganic UV filters

the final Monograph is published,

2011 summer

All combinations shown in

Japanese and proposed FDA rating systems.

sun care Conclusions Global sunscreen formulations can be made using only organic filters, although it is difficult to reach the highest SPFs (50 and above) while meeting all global UVA requirements. New ‘high UVA’ grades of TiO2 represent a simpler alternative, allowing such high SPFs to be achieved with a single active. It is difficult to devise a combination of organic and inorganic filters that conforms to all global regulations and meets all UVA requirements, but a viable alternative is to create a chassis formulation into which different UVA filters can be incorporated depending on the regulations

Table II: Calculated performance parameters for various combinations of BMDBM, benzophenone-3, octocrylene and PBSA.

in each region. It is to be hoped that the FDA will soon publish its finalized Sunscreen Monograph and add more UVA filters to the approved USA list. It would also be desirable for the FDA to allow the combination of TiO2 with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. These measures would open up many more possibilities for global sunscreen formulations. PHM

References

C10069: O/W Formulation containing 10% TiO2 solids C10070: W/O Formulation containing 10% TiO2 solids C10088: W/O Formulation containing 11% TiO2 solids Figure 1: In vivo SPF data, corresponding label SPFs and UVA ratings for formulations containing high UVA TiO2. are combined, such systems are

formulation, would be to devise

difficulties can be overcome,

often the most efficient and cost-

a formulation chassis in which

for example, by formulating a

effective way of achieving a high

organic and inorganic actives

W/O system in which migration

SPF. However, when faced with the

are readily interchangeable.

can be minimized while still using

task of creating a single, globally

One could combine TiO2 with

emollients that are good solvents

approved formulation, the

organic UVB filters and zinc

for organics. The difficulties

current FDA restrictions change

oxide for the USA and replace

of working with ZnO can be

the picture somewhat. Because

the ZnO with organic UVA filters

avoided altogether by using the

BMDM cannot be combined with

for the European market. This

high UVA TiO2 referred to earlier.

TiO2, and no other UVA filters are

is easier said than done. For

This can be simply combined with

globally approved, the only option

example, non-polar emollients

benzophenone-3 to give high SPF

remaining is to combine TiO2 with

work best with ZnO as these

formulations with a 3-star rating

organic UVB filters, although such

help to minimize ZnO migration

on the proposed FDA system

systems typically fail to meet EU

from the oil phase to the water

and, provided suitable emollients

UVA criteria.

phase; but such emollients are

are used, it is a simple matter to

not recommended for organic

replace the benzophenone-3

still preserving many of the

UVA filters as they are not

with newer, more effective UVA

advantages of a single global

good solvents for them. Such

filters for Europe and elsewhere.

A viable alternative, while

1. N.A. Shaath, The Encyclopedia of Ultraviolet Filters (Allured Publishing Corp., Miami, Florida, USA, 2007). 2. European Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto; Official Journal of the European Union L 265/39–L 265/43 (26 September 2006). 3. COLIPA, “Method for In Vitro Determination of UVA Protection,” www.colipa.eu/publicationscolipa-the-european-cosmeticcosmetics-association/guidelines. html?view=item&id=33 (2011). 4. US Food & Drug Administration, “Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-The-Counter Human Use: Proposed Amendment of Final Monograph,” Fed. Reg. 72, 49119– 49120 (27 August 2007).

For more information

Julian P. Hewitt JPH SunCare Technologies Tel. +44 776 950 8386 jp.hewitt@btinternet.com

summer 2011

Body Wash

Formulations Skin

Conditioning More

Efficient in use

EcoSmooth™ Satin EcoSmooth™ Satin provides Personal Care brand owners a new non-cationic conditioning

ingredient for body wash and mild

conditioning shampoo formulations. Including

clear formulations!

EcoSmooth™ Satin provides at least equivalent conditioning performance to cationic polymers at attractive

www.EcoSmoothSatin.com

price levels.

r e i n v e n t

c o n d i t i o n i n g

™

suncare

A Sunless Approach to

Today’s consumers are more aware than ever of the negative long-term effects that exaggerated sun exposure can have on the skin; the ultimate desire is a, healthy glow — be it natural or applied — that avoids the dangers of the sun. On one hand, traditional self-tanners often fail to fulfil consumer requirements, tending to create an uneven, spotty tan in an unnatural colour and, on the other, indoor tanning can have undesirable long-term effects on the skin. As a result of this, companies have begun to explore alternative technologies and innovations to improve the quality of the market.

esearchers at

in the upper skin layer and

UV irradiation, radical stress and

effect based on natural melanin

InterMed Discovery

produce coloured degeneration

sunburn. The amount of melanin

biosynthesis, independent from

(IMD) are currently

products. The well known

produced is dependent on

sunlight or UV irradiation.

doing just this by

disadvantages of such products

individual predisposition and

developing a novel

are an unnatural colour — often

stimulation by sunlight.

approach to sunless tanning.

with an orange-red glow — the

The project uses small natural

rapid disappearance of the

products from plants to stimulate

The aesthetic benefits offered by a true natural tan are complemented by protection against the effects associated

obtained effect and a lack of

The Future of Natural Self-Tanning

the body’s own production of skin

any UV protection. Ongoing

Researchers at IMD have

By using a product of this kind to

pigmentation following topical

research at IMD is set to resolve

developed an innovative

encourage a reduction in sun

application. Unlike traditional

this discrepancy between

approach to stimulate the

exposure, consumers will effectively

self-tanners, these specific actives

high market demand and

body’s own production of skin

reduce their risk of developing

have the potential to generate

dissatisfying market solutions

pigmentation. Small natural

skin cancer. Further development

a natural tan that corresponds

with a completely new idea

products derived from plant

of this innovative approach is

to an individual’s skin type. It is

and technology designed to

sources are applied in topical

planned to allow its inclusion as a

hoped that such a novel approach

complement previous solutions.

formulations to enhance the

suntan booster in products related

to sunless tanning will invest the

These specific actives have the potential to generate a natural tan that corresponds to an individual’s skin type.

market with innovation and a new direction in its efforts to allow consumers to acquire and maintain the perfect natural tan.

Traditional Self-Tanners Fail to Meet Consumer Expectations The market for self-tanning

with sunlight and UV irradiation.

to self-tanning.

A Great Opportunity for the Self-Tanning Market This means of sunless tanning will exceed consumer requirements, ultimately providing a way to obtain a healthy glow while avoiding skin damage. In addition, it will introduce new innovation

body’s production of melanin,

to efforts to facilitate a flawless

thereby providing — for the first

tan. The intellectual property of

and, in 2008, was estimated to

Natural Skin Pigmentation by Melanin Biosynthesis

time — access to a real tanning

this project is owned by IMD and

have a value of $379 million — a

Several different factors are

effect without the need for sun

development of the active lead

market growth that was spurred

responsible for skin pigmentation

or UV light exposure. The natural

compounds is currently ongoing;

by major consumer demand

and include, among others,

actives target a specific receptor

entrance into the cosmetic market

for a youthful appearance and

the concentration of melanin

on the melanocytes, which results

is planned for 2012 or 2013. PHM

the protection of skin health.

and carotenoid pigments, the

in the production of a pattern

Self-tanning products address

number of blood vessels in the

of pigments corresponding to

these requirements by providing

cutis (that is, the outermost layers

individual skin types. Although

consumers with a way to obtain a

of the skin) and the colour of

the project is still in development,

healthy glow without damaging

blood in said vessels. However,

IMD’s natural products were shown

their skin through overexposure

the most important factor is the

to increase melanin biosynthesis

to the sun. Unfortunately,

concentration and mixture of

in cellular in vitro models (B16

traditional products do not

types of melanin, the body’s

melanocytes) and in human ex

provide real skin pigmentation

own pigments biosynthesized

vivo skin explants. Building on these

and, instead, include chemicals

in specialized skin cells called

initial results, topical cosmetic

such as dihydroxyacetone

melanocytes, which provide

products can now be developed

(DHA), which react with proteins

the skin with protection against

that possess a real tanning

products increased by more than 400% between 2001 and 2006

For More Information

Erik H. Metz Head of Marketing and Sales InterMed Discovery, GmbH Otto-Hahn Strasse 15 44227 Dortmund Germany Tel. +49 231 9742 6072 erik.metz@intermed-discovery.com www.intermed-discovery.com

summer 2011

A Stroke of Genius Two days of technical seminars and presentations, plus the largest exhibition of its kind in the UK. A chance to brush up on your knowledge, immerse yourself in innovation, find inspiration, consider market trends, solve answers to technical challenges and discover new ways to enhance your competitive edge. For complete coverage, register online NOW at www.scsformulate.co.uk SCS Formulate – for everything you need to know…and more.

15–16 November 2011

Ricoh Arena, Coventry

2011 summer

company profile

CREATING BEAUTY Consumers worldwide share the desire for health, beauty and wellbeing. At the same time, they expect natural substances and active cosmetic ingredients with premium quality. For all these needs, Symrise Life Essentials offers products with distinctive value. Life Essentials forms an indispensible pillar of the corporate strategy at Symrise. The business unit is constantly searching for consumers’ unspoken wishes and works on translating them into marketable products. This includes changing perspectives. Symrise asks what consumers expect from a product, thus going beyond just another new ingredient to offer.

With its range, the division focuses on high-quality innovative cosmetic ingredients, such as actives, botanicals and functional products, as well as UV filters. Research and development concentrates in particular on active ingredients that slow down the aging process in the skin, soothe irritated or itchy skin or have anti-microbial properties. State-of-the-art technology helps to develop ingredients directly derived from nature. The range further comprises 100% organic, water-soluble plant extracts as well as highly active peptides. To bring all these ideas and visions to life, Symrise uses a broad network around its own research and development. Ideas from basic research as well as a scientific advisory board of dermatologists and allergists support the company’s cosmetic researchers in their efforts to develop new cosmetic ingredients and products. Working closely with these specialists provides Symrise with a direct means of integrating latest research findings and advances in dermatology into its daily business. This researchdriven approach enables Symrise to

bring really needed products onto the market. Key customers appreciate that method, because they are constantly looking for new ideas supported by proven efﬁcacy. Hartmut Altmann, VP Life Essentials EAME at Symrise, explains: “Multiple innovation award wins prove that Symrise follows the right product strategy. That is why we continue concentrating on substances that increasingly enter the focus of the consumer in order to be also tomorrow the partner of choice for our customers”. Symrise – always inspiring more…

PUREHealth Magazine

www.symrise.com www.always-inspiring-more.com

summer 2011

SymTriol® A Moisturizing 1,2Alkanediol Blend, Preservative Booster and Aroma Chemical

SymFinity® 1298 100% Natural Anti-Aging Concentrate. Extends Cell’s Longevity for Long-Lasting Vitality & Beauty of the Skin. Boosts Protection Against UVB Induced Damage and Resistance to Stress.

Frescolat ML Nat.

A Natural Cooling Agent EcoCert Approved

SymPeptide 226EL

Extrapone®/ Actipone® Healthy Grains

SymWhite® 377

For Valuable Personal Care Products

A Highly Efficient Skin Lightener

Actipone® Superveggies

A New Range of High Class Botanicals with Proven Antioxidative Properties

For Fuller Beautiful Eyelashes

SymHelios® 1031 Cell Protection – Against Longterm Damaging Effects of UVB Rays and Environmental Pollution

2011 summer

SymSol™ PF-3 SymSitive® 1609 A New Generation of Active Ingredients for Fast Skin Relief

A very efficient, cost effective, colorless, odorless PEG-free solubilizer for essential oils, fragrances, active ingredients and vitamins

Hydrolite® 6 A Multi-functional 1,2-Alkanediol

company profile

Blue Sky Botanics Pure Plant Extracts • Herbs • Flowers • Roots • Seeds • Vegetables • Seaweeds • Fruits

• Green Chemistry • Sustainable Processes • Encouraging Biodiversity Worldwide • Fairtrade • Organic • Preservative free

+44 (0)1989 780486 extracts@blueskybotanics.com www.blueskybotanics.com

summer 2011

company profile

PUREHealth Magazine

Corporate Description

BioCell Technology, LLC is in the business of researching, developing, branding and distributing novel dietary ingredients that are supported by science to improve quality of life. BioCell Technology’s branded ingredients are available under licensing to marketers and manufacturers of finished products. Popular ingredient brands include BioCell Collagen II for joint/ skin health and i-Sabi for immune system support.

Major Products/Services

•B ioCell Collagen II ® is a patented ingredient substantiated by multiple clinical trials for joint and skin benefits. Containing highly bioavailable hydrolyzed collagen, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulphate, it provides a comprehensive support for healthy joint and counteracts both natural and photoageing processes in the skin. Formulated for both oral and topical applications. • i -Sabi™, freeze-dried powder of Wasabia japonica, is rich in isothiocyanates which induces cytoprotective enzymes. It provides antioxidant, liver-detoxifying and Cox2-specific anti-inflammatory properties and is the most potent Wasabia japonica available.

• EstraFlex CMO is a proprietary blend of cetylated fatty acids and an all-natural ingredient aimed at promoting joint health, improving flexibility and joint mobility.

Facilities

Our products are manufactured in state-of-the-art cGMP compliant facilities and we have the largest production capacity in the world to supply you. We pioneered the applications of hydrolyzed collagen type II and our novel product is protected under US and International patents.

Expertise

Patented BioCell Collagen II is an unparalleled ingredient for healthy ageing, active joints and younger looking skin. BioCell Collagen II is proven, effective and fast acting. Unlike most ingredients, which provide one-dimensional support, BioCell Collagen II is actually a concentrated bioavailable and bioactive matrix of naturally occurring molecules of collagen, hyaluronic acid (HA). and chondroitin sulfate that plays a vital role in the body’s ability to maintain healthy connective tissues, flexible joints and youthful looking skin. BioCell Collagen II’s composition mirrors our own joint cartilage and is similar to our skin structure. Studies show that it

BioCell Technology, LLC 4695 MacArthur Court, 11th Floor Newport Beach, CA 92660 USA. • T. 714-632-1231 • F. 714-632-5866 • info@biocelltechnology.com • www.biocelltechnology.com • No. of Employees: 90

stimulates tissue repair and inhibits the breakdown of hyaluronic acid, a molecule that declines as we age. It’s been substantiated by four human clinical trials and various in vitro studies. BioCell Technology enjoys a robust growth rate, as do our licensing partners because they enjoy a high reorder rate from their satisfied customers. Top industry leaders in the dietary supplement industry such as Solgar, NBTY, Nature’s Way Vitamin Shoppe trust BioCell Collagen II. BioCell Collagen is highly adaptable in formulating finished products and available for both ingestible (capsule/tablet/food-grade) and topical (cosmetic grade, water soluble) applications.

Markets Served • Health Products • Dietary Supplements • Functional Foods • Cosmetics/Topicals • Joint Health • Antiageing

Patented BioCell Collagen II is an unparalleled ingredient for healthy ageing, active joints and younger looking skin 2011 summer

company profile

PUREHealth Magazine

Corporate Description

FLAVEX is an independent company and market leader in the supercritical CO2extraction of botanicals. All products are developed, produced and certified at the company’s site in Germany, near the borders of France and BeNeLux. FLAVEX serves the food, cosmetic, perfumery, aromatherapy and nutraceutical industries worldwide with innovative high quality flavours, fragrances and bioactive ingredients.

Extraction Technology

Supercritical extraction is a gentle, natural and clean method that works with pressurized carbon dioxide. The process eliminates germ count and solvent residue problems, and functions without the stress of high temperatures and without oxygen. The method also conforms to organic production criteria. Using 4000 square metres of office, lab, production and storage space, FLAVEX handles roughly 1000 tons of different plant

materials per year. All extraction plants are equipped with state-of-the-art control systems and the best equipment for providing reproducible results and validated products.

Product Quality

Aside from its technological expertise in supercritical extraction, FLAVEX has long-term experience in selecting high grade botanicals, and comprehensive know-how in phytochemistry and analysis using up-to-date instrumentation. The detailed and traceable documentation of all process validates product purity, consistency and authenticity. FLAVEX offers various specialty oils, flavouring extracts, antioxidants and products with antimicrobial, antiinflammatory or other bioactive properties from almost 100 different botanicals. The company is committed to fostering a constructive and trustful working relationship with industrial clients; the qualified members of staff are motivated to act not only as suppliers but as partners and advisers.

FLAVEX Naturextrakte GmbH 7, Nordstrasse, D-66780 Rehlingen, Germany. • T. +49 6835 9195 0 • F. +49 6835 9195 95 • info@flavex.com • www.flavex.com • No. of Employees: 42 • Year Founded: 1986

summer 2011

World Market Leader for Collagen Proteins

strap

GELITA® bioactive collagen peptides stimulate certain body functions GELITA is the leading company for manufacturing and marketing collagen proteins. Coordinated from the headquarters in Eberbach, Germany, GELITA provides customers around the world with products of the highest standard, comprehensive technical expertise and sophisticated solutions. More than 20 sites and a global expert network ensure that state-of-the-art know-how is always available for customers. More than 135 years of experience in the field of collagen proteins are the basis of GELITA’s performance. A strong requirement for innovation is the driving force of the family-owned company that is continually looking for new solutions.

Real beauty comes from within VERISOL®, administered orally, influences the skin’s collagen metabolism directly from the inside. In this way it increases the skin moisture and prevents the formation of wrinkles. VERISOL® can be easily incorporated into the most varied of products.

Scientifically proven to stimulate measurable regeneration of joint cartilage FORTIGEL® stimulates the cartilage cells to increase the production of both collagen and proteoglycans – the two major components of cartilage. Thus FORTIGEL® considerably improves joint mobility, reduces pain and hence produces a higher quality of life.

Anti-catabolic collagen peptides for durable performance PEPTIPLUS® is a valuable source of collagen proteins which provides a longlasting energy supply. It consists of basic building blocks for connective tissue production and comprises a high anti-catabolic effect. PEPTIPLUS® is suitable for manifold applications like nutritional bars or protein enriched beverages.

GELITA AG · Uferstr. 7 · 69412 Eberbach · T: +49 627184 01 · service@gelita.com · www.gelita.com

2011 summer

company profile

Corporate Description

Science Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high-quality actives based on profound scientific know-how. Nature Our R&D team transforms naturally derived compounds into truly functional cosmetic ingredients. Efficacy Mibelle Biochemistry possesses powerful encapsulation technologies that guarantee optimum bioavailability. Performance Wideranging knowledge and experience of cosmetics and related trends enable us to create forward thinking concepts. Innovation The ability to innovate, to anticipate and to meet the needs of cosmetic professionals makes Mibelle Biochemistry the perfect partner for you. Future Comprehensive technical support and marketingoriented documentation help to position your new products for maximum market impact.

Major Products/Services

Active ingredients for the following applications: • Anti-aging => Stem cell protection, experts, skin radiance & quality, photo-aging/sun care, Antioxidant/Energizing • Hydration/Soothing • Active protection • Whitening • Hair • Anti-cellulite/Slimming

• Natural Cosmetics => Ecocert certified active ingredients, Ecocert approved active ingredients

Latest Innovations

PhytoCellTec™ range: Actives based on plant stem cells with proven efficacy on skin stem cells Delentigo™: The age spot solution MAXnolia: Fights skin inflamm’aging LIPerfection: Absolute volume, luscious feel SunActin: The intelligent cell protection factor

Customer Service

Innovation A strategic, forward thinking culture of innovation that meets the demands of the market. Anticipation of needs • Professional customer consultation and efficient service • Superior documentation: literature that uniquely is comprehensive, well-founded, understandable and consequently very useful • Customized solutions to meet specific requirements

PUREHealth Magazine

Mibelle Biochemistry Bolimattstrasse 1 5033 Buchs Switzerland. • T: +41 62 836 17 31 • F: +41 62 836 14 05 • info@mibellebiochemistry.com • www.mibellebiochemistry.com • Year Founded: 1991

Responsibility Our customers can rely on our agreed services due to our personal commitment to meet their expectations. Quality Constantly developing high-quality products with guaranteed availability.

Markets Served

Mibelle Biochemistry offers a worldwide distribution. Detailed information are available under www.mibellebiochemistry.com

summer 2011

company profile

PUREHealth Magazine

2011 summer

company profile

PUREHealth Magazine

Extracting natural health

Frutarom Ltd. is one of the world’s largest providers of specialty fine ingredients, flavors and savory solutions. Established in 1933, it now employs some 1,500 people worldwide and has manufacturing facilities in Europe, North America, Israel and Asia. The company’s health-focussed strategy targets the dietary supplements, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics

and functional food markets in particular, offering natural extracts and functional food ingredients. Based on years of expertise, Frutarom is able to supply high quality health ingredients that are scientifically supported and documented, in line with current regulations. Through its Taste Solutions (Flavors and Food Systems), Savoury Solutions and Flavors & Fragrances ingredients activities, the company offers

The Frutarom Innovation Center in Wädenswil, Switzerland.

comprehensive combinations of taste and health. Frutarom’s extensive portfolio comprises both proprietary and complementary ingredients. The former are mainly developed in-house and supported by scientific studies and branding programs. They comprise the EFLA® and LifeLine ranges as well as Botanicare extracts. The complementary ingredients portfolio, which includes the SelectLine range and medical extracts, contains more than 600 health ingredients, carefully selected from all over the world. Thanks to its excellent relationship with suppliers, Frutarom can provide everything that clients need to develop innovative products targeting the full spectrum of consumer needs. Overall, Frutarom’s portfolio offers versatile opportunities to create solutions for a variety of indications, such as: Womens Health: e.g. SoyLife™ soy germ isoflavones for osteoporosis prevention and treatment of postmenopausal symptoms, and Pumpkin EFLA®940 for relief of urinary discomfort. Urinary Health: e.g. Pumpkin EFLA®940, LinumLife™ natural flax lignans, and GoLess® (a blend of SoyLife™ and Pumpkin EFLA®940). Travel Health: Neuravena EFLA®955 extract of wild green oat, and extracts of blackcurrant, schisandra, fenugreek, lemon balm and red vine leaf. Slimming: e.g. Finomate® green maté extract, FenuLife® extract of fenugreek fibre, and an extract of green coffee bean. Mental Health: e.g. Neuravena EFLA®955 extract of wild green oat for cognitive function; Lemon Balm EFLA®646, and Ginseng EFLA®910. Immune Health: e.g. Echinacea EFLA®894, and Pelargonium EFLA®956. Healthy Aging: e.g. Benolea™EFLA®943 olive leaf extract for the cardiovascular system and a healthy heart and uniK2, a vitamin K2 ingredient for osteoporosis prevention. Digestive Health: e.g. FenuLife™, an extract of fenugreek fiber which helps to prevent heartburn. Cardiovascular Health: e.g. Benolea™EFLA®943 olive leaf extract, EFLA®945 red vine leaf extract, Black Garlic EFLA®451, and uniK2. Bone and Joint Health: e.g. SoyLife™ soy isoflavones from the soy hypocotyl and thus with a unique efficacy profile. Beauty from Within: e.g. LinumLife™ flaxseed lignans for beautiful and clear skin, and GreenTea EFLA®942. Since 1993, Frutarom has successfully implemented a rapid growth strategy which combines organic growth at above-industry levels with strategic acquisitions of synergistic companies. Today it is a public company whose stock is listed on the Tel Aviv and London Stock Exchanges. Since January 1, 2003, Frutarom has been included in the Tel Aviv 100 Index.

summer 2011

company profile

PUREHealth Magazine

BASF SE

ABOUT BASF PERSONAL CARE

We provide the resources of a global industry leader combined with the consumer insights and innovative drive our customers expect. In the hair care, sun care, skin care, color care and body care markets they profit from our winning combination of worldwide reach, technological power and formulation know-how. The high-quality product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colourants, stabilizers, emollients, and surfactants.

ABOUT BASF

109,000 employees as of the end of the year. Further information on BASF is available on the Internet at www.basf.com or in the Social Media Newsroom at newsroom.basf.com.

67056 Ludwigshafen Germany • T: +49 621 60 0 • F: +49 621 60 42525 • personal-care-eu@basf.com • www.personal-care.basf.com • No. of Employees: 109,000

BASF’S MAJOR PRODUCTS FOR PERSONAL CARE: • Polymers • UV filters • Effect pigments • Actives • Hair colourants • Stabilizers • Surfactants • Emollients

BASF is the world’s leading chemical company: The Chemical Company. Its portfolio ranges from chemicals, plastics, performance products, and agricultural products to oil and gas. As a reliable partnerm, BASF PERSONAL CARE creates chemistry that help its customers in virtually MARKETS SERVED: all industries to be more successful. With its high- • hair care value products and intelligent solutions, BASF plays an • sun care important role in finding answers to global challenges • skin care such as climate protection, energy efficiency, • color care 1-xxx-2010 Anz_SunscrSim_A5quer:Layout 1 20.07.2010 15:05 Uhr Seite 1 nutrition and mobility. BASF posted sales of more • body care than €63.9 billion in 2010 and had approximately • oral care

BASF Sunscreen Simulator – the Innovation Tool for the Formulator www.basf.com/sunscreen-simulator 2011 summer

technology

A day in the life of a factory profitability expert.

PURPOSE?

eter Hill is one of

where; a very valuable skill

cosmetics industries. Following

reasonably efficient individual

Marco’s profitability

indeed if you’ve just identified

preliminary discussions, Peter

processes, these are not being

experts — a man

significant and sustained

is visiting to do a free site audit

‘glued’ together and they are

who knows what

unaccountable losses in a

to identify where, as he puts

experiencing unaccountable

it takes to make

company.

it, “the profits are hiding.” He

losses as products transfer from

comments: “I see my job as

one area of the factory to

manufacturing companies very

Peter’s first visit of the day is

lucrative. Peter has extensive

to an existing customer who

being the translator of actual

another. The main reason is the

experience in factory floor

wants to make some tweaks to

factory floor requirements into

lack of real-time and coherent

efficiency systems and knows

existing software. “The majority

accurate information that I

factory floor data being made

exactly how to get to the

of our customers become long-

can pass onto our software

available. Unfortunately their

bottom of what customers

term partners and our systems

and hardware teams. My

ERP system is only capable of

really need in double quick

evolve with their processes.

background in software,

monitoring raw materials arriving

time. Basically, he’s very good

Typically, once a customer

together with on-site process

at goods inwards and finished

at getting people to articulate

has experienced the rapid

experience, makes this easier.

product at goods out, not what

their problems to him — and

improvements that our solutions

With time, I’ve found that

happens in between.”

then summarizing the overall

bring, they want to rollout

customers want to talk to

situation within a facility. In the

ongoing improvements in other

someone who understands their

PHM: What makes you

majority of cases, this can be

areas of their plant. Our systems

requirements, but who doesn’t

an expert?

done, on site, in a single day.

are modular in design and

tie them up in knots with lengthy,

PH: Probably because I’m a

Peter has a highly analytical

highly versatile, making any such

verbose technical jargon.” The

fresh pair of eyes and ears.

mind — probably a legacy from

changes more straightforward.”

meeting is with the IT manager

The cosmetics industry is fast

his time in the classroom as a

The second visit is to a new

and Peter soon identifies some

paced and people are often

teacher — and can quickly see

customer who produces flavours

familiar problems. “Although

far too close to their production

what needs to be done and

and fragrances for the food and

the manufacturer has

environment to see the bigger

The majority of our customers become long-term partners and our systems evolve with their processes.

summer 2011

picture. Continually fire

PHM: What are the most

fighting, they don’t have time

common profit-related problems

to sit back and look at what’s

you find during your initial visit?

actually going right and what’s

PH: This can probably be

going wrong. I’ve analysed

summed up as factory floor

more than a hundred different

dysfunction and lack of

installations during the past 5

knowledge. Company personnel

years so you get this intuition.

are usually too focused on

It’s difficult to put your finger on

the hour-to-hour, day-to-day

it — it’s just there!

aspects of running their business to take stock of what actually

PHM: What do you find are

goes on throughout their

the main issues affecting

process. When something does

manufacturers?

go wrong, they typically don’t

PH: Many processes in

have the data to analyse why

the food and beverage,

it went wrong … so they can

pharmaceutical, fresh produce

avoid it next time. In parallel,

and flavourings industries are

waste and giveaway are major

not fully automated, placing

issues and most companies

significant reliance on manual

don’t have a handle on these.

operations in key areas

They become too reliant on their

such as recipe control. No

ERP system, if necessary turning

matter what the industry, the

a blind eye to factors such as

typical problems are mirrored

unaccountable losses. I see

throughout. Manufacturers are

production processes ranging

under pressure to be leaner,

from complex ready meal

more accountable and more

assembly, involving processes

profitable, whilst being expected

such as cooking, dicing and

to provide greater traceability.

mixing at one end of the

These factors are compounded

spectrum, to the relatively simple

by rapidly changing order

processes involving the packing

requirements and the threat of

of fresh fruit.

brand damage through issues

2011 summer

such as incorrect labelling. The

PHM: Are companies sceptical

ready meals industry is a classic

about your claims of improving

example in which processes

profitability?

from initial recipe make-up

PH: The short answer is yes!

through to product assembly

Probably because other

rely on the dexterity of manual

companies have come along

operators. It is very difficult

making ambitious promises that

to fully automate processes

have failed to materialize. It’s

in such a dynamic working

a very simple message we’re

environment, particularly given

conveying, but the specifics

the diverse and changing

require drilling right down into

order requirements.

the company’s processes. By

technology PHM: What does a ‘Factory

consider the overall impact on

on their faces when we ran

Fitness’ evaluation deliver?

the plant, so that additional

the first management report

PH: A Factory Fitness

systems can be integrated as

following the system going live;

evaluation looks thoroughly

and when necessary.

they just couldn’t believe the

at all aspects of a process —

results! PHM

from goods-in to despatch. By

PHM: What was your most

analysing each and every part

satisfying project in terms of the

of the process, it highlights

results it delivered?

where the data gaps are and

PH: I think this has to be the one

where potential problems

when we eradicated the costly

can arise. Once this has

rework for a major cosmetics

been established, a series of

company. The customer had

solutions is put for ward, based

come to accept double-digit

asking a series of simple, yet

on coherent and time-efficient

losses because of the rework

searching questions, potential

process improvement. Every

and their managers had

customers start to realize that we

Marco proposal includes a

convinced themselves that it

know what we’re doing and the

clear upfront justification

was a problem that couldn’t

scepticism turns to attentiveness

calculation, linked to an

be solved, particularly with the

and interest. The solution is

expected return on investment,

challenges of manufacturing

usually a combination of a

so that management can

very involved complex colour

number of smaller factors that

make informed decisions.

collations. We proved that it

collectively add up to important

Depending on budgetary

could be resolved and, as a

savings. Once we explain these

and operational restraints, it

result, they are now enjoying

points and calculations establish

may be that the initial phase

more than £250,000 worth

a likely ROI, companies very

looks at improving part of the

of savings a year. The key

quickly warm to our ideas.

process, but any solution will

moment for me was the look

For more information

To find out more about how to improve your process, download Peter Hill’s “Top Tips for Profitability” from the Marco website www.marco.co.uk Tel. +44 1342 870 103 info@marco.co.uk

summer 2011

strap

summer 2011

executive profile Pure

Health

Hodgson

Magazine’s

spoke

with

Liam

Charlotte Doherty,

Global Marketing Manager for ANGUS — a fully owned subsidiary of DOW chemical company — to discuss new offerings for the personal care and cosmetics industry and a global strategy for the future.

Pushing the Performance Benefits of CH: Can you please explain the

hair styling product attributes. An

applications and benefits of

example of this is the high humidity

AMP-ULTRA PC?

curl retention test, in which the

LD: As the global leader in

retention of the curl is measured

nitroalkane chemistry and

during a 24 hour period. Using

technology, ANGUS has developed

photographic evidence, the test

solutions for several key markets,

reveals that when subjected to

one of which is personal care and

standard testing with AMP, the curl

cosmetics; we are now the global

of the hair is almost completely

leader in specialty neutralizers for

maintained; the use of alternative

this market. AMP ULTRA PC is the

products can result in a droop in

global industry standard neutralizer

as little as one hour. We’re really

for hair styling products and brings

excited about the new tools

performance benefits to a range

and how clearly they benefit

of hair styling attributes, including

performance. The most exciting

high humidity curl retention, hair

part is that customers in Europe,

washability and product stability.

in addition to some developing

A major focus area in 2011 was the

regions, have been extremely

introduction of new application

impressed with us and our

capabilities for hair styling products,

formulation capabilities and wish

particularly the promotion of AMP

to adopt our technology in their

Ultra PC’s unique benefits. We

hair styling formulations.

developed new application testing capabilities for these products

CH: How has the increasing

to support the easy adoption of

regulation in the cosmetics sector

AMP Ultra PC neutralizers by our

impacted innovation?

customers globally and have been

LD: I would say that for Angus and

presenting these new capabilities;

the development of neutralizers for

first to Europe and in-cosmetics

personal care, it has actually been

Asia at the end of last year, then at

a very positive thing. We have built

PCHI in China earlier this year.

on these new regulations as they

Our new testing capabilities

apply to alcanolamines, which

clearly demonstrate the

basically relate to neutralizers in

unmatched performance of

personal care and cosmetics;

AMP ULTRA PC — compared with

they have actually driven our

alternatives — in a range of key

innovation — and, as a result, our

summer 2011

Hair this great should last. AMP-ULTRA PC: ™

The strength behind your hold

ANGUS Chemistry… Today’s consumers are on the go – and so is their hair. As the industry standard, AMP-ULTRA™ PC neutralizing amine from ANGUS helps maximize performance of a wide range of hair styling products so that consumers can have great, long-lasting hair. Visit www.AMPforHair.com to request a sample. ANGUS Commitment... AMP-ULTRA PC is just one example of ANGUS dedication to development of high-purity, globally compliant products for the personal care and cosmetics industry. ANGUS People... Whether you’re formulating for skin care, sun care or hair care, ANGUS has a full portfolio and industry experts to help you achieve a winning formulation. Visit www.ANGUS.com for more information.

®™ Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company (“Dow”) or an afﬁliated company of Dow ANGUS CHEMICAL COMPANY A Subsidiary of The Dow Chemical Company

executive profile

the last 4–5 years. I wouldn’t say that we, or our customers, would love to see increasing regulations but they exist for a reason and, in reality, also provide an opportunity for raw material suppliers such as ourselves and our customers to become leaders in innovation. In fact, we are now reaping the rewards of innovation that was largely driven by the increase in regulations in 2005 and 2006. CH: Is REACH an issue for ANGUS? LD: REACH has not been an issue as such, but has required quite a bit of work from ANGUS. We hold the position of global leader in the commercial supply of many of our products and could even be described as the unique commercial supplier of several, including AMP. This situation requires us to take on the burden of work in putting our products through REACH and being the lead registrant for AMP and other specialty neutralizers. Our REACH dossier for AMP and other grades was successfully submitted in September 2010 and has ensured the continuing production and marketing of AMP in the European area beyond the REACH deadline of late last year. Our other customers, for whom we have met all other deadlines, have been very appreciative of the work we have done to safeguard the marketing of our products in Europe.

formulate our products into

post-recession economy?

their end products and assist

LD: Let me start by commenting

them to change their product

on how well we fared during the

formulations. To this end, we

recession. Personal care and

have installed seven customer

cosmetics was quite significantly

application centres around the

our most recession-resistant

world, for example in Shanghai,

market during the 2008/2009

Singapore, Sao Paolo and Dubai,

downturn and, post-recession,

in which our teams can work very

we continued to see above

closely with customers. We have

market growth rates, driven

‘put our feet on the ground’ in

largely by the continued

multiple geographies worldwide

adoption of our AMP Ultra PC

in terms of installing labs that

offering. Recent regulations

are supported by technical and

have resulted in us being able

commercial resources.

to further innovate the new

Liam Doherty

success — in these sectors during

CH: How is ANGUS faring in the

offering; it has already been

Without naming specific companies, it is no longer sufficient to assume that the rest of the world will convert to the same formulation.

CH: Do you believe that ‘having

widely adopted in Europe and

your feet on the ground’ in so

North America and adoption

many locations helps your

is accelerating, particularly in

customers to create cutting edge

developing regions of India,

technologies and products?

China and Latin America.

LD: Absolutely! If we take China as an example, formulations

CH: Which markets and/or arenas

would previously have been

is ANGUS focusing on for the future,

levied into the country from

both in terms of geographies and

Western Europe or North

applications?

America. Native formulators,

LD: Europe and North America

however, are no longer willing

are currently our largest revenue

to so readily accept this; they

geographies, but we are

want local formulation help,

increasing our focus to include

allowing them to, after a steep

India, Brazil and China. We have

learning curve, quickly use the

recently developed tools with an

available technology to develop

eye to accelerating the adoption

leading edge formulations.

of our technology in those rapidly

This trend is evident not only in

developing economies and

relation to independent Chinese

are very excited about future

formulators, but from within the

growth in these regions. In terms

formulaic departments of some

of applications, hair styling

of the multinationals who are

products will continue to be a

moving to such geographies; the

key area for us, but what we are

local formulation teams are keen

offering is broader than that.

to work with both raw material

We also have in development a

suppliers and their corporate

selection of neutralizers for use

headquarters to develop new

in skincare and eye cosmetics

formulations. Without naming

… and so we are expanding our

specific companies, it is now

focus into these sectors.

no longer sufficient to assume that the rest of the world will

CH: What strategies does ANGUS

convert to the same formulation.

employ to respond to the ever-

It is necessary to work with

changing demands that are

local formulators to ensure the

driven by changes in marketing,

technology is well understood and,

regulations and so on?

therefore, easily adopted. PHM

LD: We have a very market focused approach and organize our resources around them by communicating with specific marketing managers. We also maintain a close relationship with customers to shape innovations to their needs, help them to

For more information

Liam Doherty Global Marketing Manager ANGUS Chemical Company Tel. +1 800 447 4369 www.angus.com

summer 2011

R EG TO FR IS ATT EE TE EN R D N O W

Discover the world of ingredients for Nutraceuticals Functional foods Functional drinks Dietary supplements More than a trade show... • Meet over 100 international ingredients and raw materials suppliers • Attend over 25 free seminars • Hear free keynote presentations • Discover the New Products Zone

Media & Association Supporters:

• Debate with your peers at the Discussion Forum • Networking opportunities • Free Advisory Sessions • Market and trend forecasts And much more...

Supported by

Portfolio includes

Organised by

last word

A year has passed since the launch of Seven Scent as a fragrance subsidiary of the global consumer product group, PZ Cussons. Managing Director Neil Weaver recently provided Pure Health Magazine with inside information, including reasons for the move and its ambitious plans for the future. PHM: What prompted PZ Cussons

particularly as we are now

impact of these rises. By ensuring

treatments and Seven is

to establish its perfumery business

starting to receive positive

that their portfolio is entirely fit

committed to providing support

as an independent company?

feedback from our customers.

for purpose across their product

where it is needed. The Seashell

range and finding ways for them

Trust, for example, is an inspiring

NW: The perfumery team has exclusively supplied fragrance to

PHM: What are the advantages

to reduce stock levels, we can

organization that provides care

PZ Cussons for more than 25 years

that Seven offers to

help to mitigate the impact.

for children and young people

and built up a huge amount of

manufacturers?

specialist knowledge — not only

NW: Seven’s new state-of-the-art

PHM: How will increased

and disabilities. Its multisensory

technical expertise, but also an

production facility makes it one

regulation affect product

rooms provide a wonderful

equally important understanding

of the most advanced fragrance

development?

environment in which to stimulate

of the commercial demands of

manufacturers in the UK. This,

NW: Regulation helps to ensure

the sense and we will continue

product development. It was

combined with the ability of

the safety of the end user, so it is

to work with them to explore the

recognized that this proven,

our perfumery team to deliver

vital that fragrance suppliers have

beneficial effects of fragrance in

value-generating asset had real

exactly the right fragrance to

a thorough understanding of the

enhancing the students’ learning

commercial potential for a much

meet customers’ needs for quality

current regulatory framework

experience. We also have strong

wider audience in a number of

and cost, is a highly effective way

— and keep an eye on future

links with the Hallé Orchestra,

global sectors.

to add real value to the business

developments. Increased

which focuses on combining

and a strong proposition for

regulation results in products

music and fragrance to assist in

manufacturers.

being under ever-greater scrutiny

the treatment of conditions such

and we see it as our role to

as Alzheimer’s. It is extremely

PHM: How did you make the transition to independent

with severe learning difficulties

subsidiary?

PHM: What do you see as the

ensure customers benefit from

rewarding to be involved with

NW: The legal transition was

major issues facing fragrance

our extensive knowledge. We

these organizations.

the easy bit; the majority of the

suppliers?

consider regulatory issues in every

planning centred on the physical

NW: As with all the markets we

brief so that if, for example, we

PHM: What are the business’ long-

move to a purpose-built site

supply, the fragrance industry is

are creating a new fragrance for

term goals?

and the construction of our new

facing significant raw material

a wide variety of applications, we

NW: Seven is a strategic

production facility. It also provided

cost inflation, so we are focused

ensure that every product is within

component of PZ Cussons’

an opportunity to introduce

on helping customers to manage

current guidelines.

aspirations for long-term growth

refreshing new ways of working

their fragrance portfolio in a way

and thinking — an approach

that enables them to reduce the

and we have therefore set PHM: Why do you think scent is

ourselves high targets. We are

encapsulated in the Seven

such a complex part of product

already a well-established,

Philosophy, which was written by

development?

experienced fragrance house,

employees as a summary of the

NW: Fragrance plays an

but our goal is to build external

team’s ethics and identity.

enormously important role in the

partnerships that establish us

overall sensory experience of a

as a significant player in both

PHM: What are the major

product. Smells are evocative,

the national and international

achievements of your first year

trigger memories and influence

fragrance arena. PHM

trading as Seven?

mood; with such diverse effects,

NW: The last 12 months have

it is not surprising that the

been all about the transition,

process behind creating the

establishing a separate identity

desired fragrance is complex

for Seven and creating the

— and that’s before you take

foundations for external supply

commercial considerations into

partnerships. This has meant

account. The emotional reaction

a great deal of change but

to scent is being increasingly

we’re pleased with the results,

Neil Weaver

explored in certain therapeutic

For more information

Neil Weaver Managing Director Seven Scent Ltd Tel. +44 161 743 4310 enquiries@sevenscent.co.uk www.sevenscent.co.uk

summer 2011

Feel

Appeal

OptaSense RMA100 & OptaSense RMA110 TM

OptaSense RMA100 and OptaSense RMA 110 are multifunctional Liquid Dispersion Polymers providing instant, efficient and flexible thickening. As liquid inverse emulsion polymers, they are easy to use and can be incorporated at any stage of the hot or cold manufacturing processes. OptaSense RMA100 offers the ability to impart effortless ‘Superior to Silicone’ luxury into anionic and non-ionic personal care formulations. OptaSense RMA 110 delivers an exceptional lightness and dry skin feel to O/W milks, light lotions and creams.

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build on

■ ■

■

Multifunctional liquid dispersion polymers Instant and efficient thickeners for milks, lotions and creams OptaSense RMA100 incorporates emollient ester CrodamolTM STS for 'Feel Appeal' OptaSense RMA110 has a sensational light and dry skin feel thanks to emollient ester CrodamolTM TN Can be used in both hot and cold manufacturing processes

strap

Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 83617 31

LIPerfection Absolute volume, luscious feel

LIPerfection is a purified extract of organic yellow mustard sprouts, full of most valuable phytonutrients. Sinalbin, a pungent flavor compound is the major health promoting phytochemical in mustard sprouts. It is known to increase the capillary blood flow and to stimulate thereby volume and redness. Plump red lips provide a youthful healthy appearance. • Plumps and instantly hydrates lips • Reduces appearance of fine lines • Gives the lip area a fuller and firmer look

LIPerfection improves the look, the definition and the color of lips.

summer 2011