The world of personal care ingredients
PUREHealth Magazine
WINTER EDITION 2010/11
TM
Advanced Age-Reversal Skin Treatment
Antiageing
Lifespan versus health span Is living to 100 worth it?
Parabens
More harmful than nuclear waste?
Toiletries and Personal Care Products Naturals and organics lead the way Keeping it green
Innovation: The Land of Opportunity
For direct access to Croda’s expertise visit http://pceurope.crodadirect.com
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Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.crodausa.com Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.crodala.com Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia
Innovation you can build onTM
2
winter 2010/2011
contents WINTER EDITION 2010/2011
CONTENTS. In
. . e u s s i s thi
From the Editor
05 More Than Skin Deep Dr Kevin Robinson
Opinion
10 Parabens: More Harmful Than Nuclear Waste?
Dene Godfrey
Antiageing
12 Lifespan Versus Health Span James Betz
16 Living to One Hundred is Easy! But is it Worth it?
Roger Coghill
18 Skin Ageing: From
12 20
Functional Impairment to Cosmetic Solutions
Luigi Rigano
Green Ingredients
26
20 Sustainability within the C&T Markets
Imogen Matthews
Ingredient Focus 22
Natural Beauties
Mira Koppert
26 Three Challenges, One Solution: Collagen Proteins
Oliver Wolf
Trends and Innovation
30 Innovation: The Land of Opportunity? Katrin Steinbach
Toiletries and Personal Care Products
32 Natural and Organics Lead the Way in Beauty Essentials
Shamini Singh
Oral Health
34 Chew Your Way to Healthy Teeth Thomas Jahn
10
32 2010/2011 winter
3
Staff
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Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions Circulation Circulation Manager of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do info@via-medialtd.com notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention. Pure Health Magazine is free to Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing qualified readers. in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details). responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. Via Media UK Limited Copyright Š 2010, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication Managing Director Simon Jones may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or simon.jones@via-medialtd.com mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131 system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Editorial Director Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121. Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591 Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or Financial Controller personal use of specific clients, is granted for libraries and other users registered Catherine Swainson with the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 0LP, catherine@via-medialtd.com UK (ISSN: 1742-447X). Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123
Frutarom loves Beauty and helps nourish your skin from the inside A marker of youth and health, the skin needs daily nourishment and protection to remain clear and smooth. Frutarom presents a scientifically-backed selection of safe and natural dietary ingredients for beauty formulations. For more information on our Beauty campaign, please contact Frutarom.
GreenTea 942
and ingredients from
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4
winter 2010/2011
From The Editor
More Than Skin Deep It’s antiageing Jim, but not as we know it!
W
elcome to
business and technology
its achievement.” The unique
the Winter
across the pharmaceutical
formulation contains the
2010/2011
outsourcing, biopharmaceutical
so-called miracle molecule,
issue of
and clinical trial industries. And,
resveratrol, four superfruit
Pure Health
although Biotivia’s submission
antioxidants, advanced
Magazine, sponsored by the
was technically a cosmeceutical
hexapeptides, Japanese
world-leading manufacturer
project, Celle was recognized as
pearl extract and Edelweiss
initiate mitosis do not reach their
of resveratrol-based health
a true innovation and cited as
plant progenitor cells. In Celle,
destination cells. No new cells, no
supplements, Biotivia. We’re
an “ethical, high performance
Biotivia has created a skin repair
old age. And that made me think,
delighted to be able to include
skin treatment” whose effects
and rejuvenating cream that
when we talk about antiageing,
an editorial contribution
compare with those of laser and
contains no harmful chemicals,
what do we really mean? Does
from CEO and founder of the
chemical peels, dermabrasion,
such as PEGs, carbomers or
this industry and its products aim
company, James Betz, who offers
Botox and other much more costly
parabens (still contained in
to target the entire organism,
a futurologist’s view of antiageing.
and uncomfortable procedures.
other creams costing more
the whole body or just the skin
Ageing and the widely
Celle is the result of 4 years of
than $1000), while maintaining
and face? Is there any point in
recognized diseases of ageing
development and thousands of
the texture, silkiness and rich
being pretty at 80 if you can’t get
are not inevitable consequences
hours of testing and refinement
soft feel that these chemicals
out of your wheelchair? Are we
of living longer, writes James, and
by leading American, Italian and
were thought to be essential for
simply selling a facial prosthetic to
suggests that developments in
Swiss scientists to combine all-
(www.celleskincare.com).
disguise a failing body? Or, taking
advanced prosthetics, stem cell
natural active ingredients, backed
therapy, organ replacement and
Maintaining the antiageing
a positive stance, does looking
by solid scientific evidence, in
theme, Roger Coghill, Director
good mean feeling good and,
the prevention and treatment
a uniquely effective new skin
of Asphalia Food Products Ltd,
by default, staying healthier for
of cancer, heart disease and
treatment to combat skin ageing
also offers some pearls of wisdom
longer? Perhaps I’m just arguing
neurological conditions such as
— both internally and externally
for the wannabe centenarian ...
semantics and nomenclature;
Alzheimer’s and dementia will
— and actually reverse much of
but also serves up some food for
personally, I’d swap a healthy
mean that those persons who are
the damage caused by years or
thought (page 16). Taking a more
heart for a few wrinkles and
presently under 60 years of age
decades of exposure to the sun,
holistic approach to the concept
grey hairs and, in closing, would
and in excellent health will have
our challenging environment and
of living longer, he advises against
suggest that cosmetic “age
a reasonably good chance of
a less than perfect diet.
the over-consumption of alcohol
defying” products only make
and advocates taking moderate
sense when combined with a
living indefinitely. A paradigm shift
James was in Paris to
in longevity therapy? A dystopian
receive the award at this
exercise and consuming plenty
lifestyle that includes balanced
view of immortality? See page 12
year’s gala dinner event and
of vitamins and minerals. In
nutrition, physical fitness and
for the full article and to find out
commented: “This is a serious
addition, he suggests that those
preventive healthcare. Otherwise,
how our lifespans — as well as our
achievement and I am gratified
of us wishing to reach a ripe old
it’s just not worth it. PHM
health spans — can be extended.
that Celle has been given this
age would do well to minimize
recognition. It was enough
our exposure to electromagnetic
it was recently announced that
Talking of age-defying solutions,
just to be nominated for such
fields (EMFs). Perhaps more
Biotivia’s Celle Rejuvenating
a sought after award, but to
easily said than done in this
Skincare Cream had won
go on and win the category is
technological age of mobile
the Outstanding Application
quite humbling. This award is
communication and the wireless
in Nutraceuticals award at
testament to all the hard work
Internet; but, as Roger says, the
the European Outsourcing
and unique innovation that has
link between cancer and heart
Awards (EOA). Held annually,
gone into making Celle one
disease and exposure to EMFs has
the EOA recognizes significant
of the most sought after skin
been a recurring research result
developments in contract services
treatments ever. We were up
of those working independently
and rewards successful companies
against some of the industry’s
in this controversial field. No
for their outstanding contributions
biggest players and our win
matter how much vitamin E and/
and achievements throughout the
proves that small innovative
or whatever quantity of natural/
year. The awards were created
companies can develop a
organic wrinkle removers we
to celebrate and recognize
product that really works and
apply are going to do much
excellence in R&D, marketing,
gain industry recognition for
good if the brain’s signals to
2010/2011 winter
For more information
Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine (PHM) and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com. Visit www.europeanoutsourcingawards. com to learn more about the EOA.
5
News and Products Sooth and Restructure
Our diet is biased toward inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids
Omegablue is the result of Indena’s four decades of bilberry fruit experience. Extracted from the seeds of this unique berry (Vaccinum myrtillus), Omegablue has been developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive skin and as a skin and hair restructurant. Omegablue provides a soothing effect and improves skin hydration and integrity. Because it contains sebum-like essential fatty acids that form a protective barrier against external agents, it protects against acute and chronic skin damage. Omegablue has been clinically tested on healthy volunteers to assess its barrier repairing properties after irritative damage induced by the detergent SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) in occlusion for 24 hours. After 3 days of twice daily application of an emulsion containing Omegablue (2%), the lipidic barrier completely recovered from the damage caused by SLS. Recent publications identify bilberry is an optimal source of α-linolenic acid (ALA) and linoleic acid (LA); compared with other sources of unsaturated fatty acids, bilberry seed oil has an optimal omega-6:omega-3 ratio. Genetically speaking, humans live in a nutritional environment that differs from that which our genetic constitution was selected for; in fact, our diet is currently biased toward inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids rather than anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids. Omegablue enables our bodies to reconstitute its skin barrier and prevents omega-6 and omega-3 from competing for its enzymatic substrates (www.indena.com).
rather than antiinflammatory omega-3 fatty acids. Clariant Focuses on Further Growth in China
Swiss specialty chemicals company, Clariant, continues to strengthen its presence in Asia with the official opening of its new Greater China headquarters in Shanghai. The facility also includes a new technical application centre for pigments. Clariant further announced the launch of its new quinacridon pigment joint venture in Hangzhou. Additionally, in September 2009, Clariant launched its new multipurpose plant (MPP) in Zhenjiang. A new ethoxylation facility in Dayabay, an industrial hub in Southern China, is currently under construction. Its opening is scheduled for mid-2011. By this date, Clariant will have invested approximately 150 million Swiss francs (CHF) during the last two and a half years. In 2010, Greater China will gain a share of around 8% of the worldwide Clariant business. Today, Clariant employs up to 1300 people in Greater China and is represented in 13 cities with a total of 21 locations. “Setting up the new Greater China headquarters and the new production site in Hangzhou reflects Clariant’s confidence in the stability and growth of the Chinese economy. And, with a sales increase of about 30% in 2010, China is one of the fastest growing markets for Clariant,” commented Dr Hariolf Kottmann, Clariant’s Chief Executive Officer (www.clariant.com).
6
TIGI Packs a Punch with DHL
DHL Supply Chain’s Consumer Sector (www.dhl.co.uk) has helped leading fashion hair care company, TIGI, to collate and pack three new gift box designs for its Christmas 2010 campaign. More than 500,000 gift packs, containing professional hair products such as Bed Head and Catwalk, were assembled by DHL co-packing professionals at the global logistics firm’s dedicated 350,000 sq ft Whitwood facility. The project involved managing customer stock across multiple SKUs, assembling multiple packaging components — including acetate fronts, display inserts and outer boxes — checking label alignments, applying tamper seals and the use of stringent internal audit systems to enable full product traceability. TIGI’s gift packs were picked and palletized to order and are available in salons nationwide, across Europe and in Australia and New Zealand. Lynn Grady, General Manager of DHL’s Consumer Sector’s Co-Pack operations, said: “This was a complex and delicate operation but we are delighted with the outcome. The team did a fantastic job to meet a very tight schedule. Quality control and manual dexterity were paramount to this job’s success; every fitment had to be inserted and folded in a specific way to avoid marking the acetates and boxes. We are very proud to have assembled some really standout packaging for TIGI and they will look great on shelf.” Ken Setchell at TIGI said: “We have been very impressed with the seamless fashion in which DHL has turned this around for us. With three different box designs and a combined total of 17 gift packs, it was somewhat of an undertaking. We are confident that our customers will be delighted with the end result, both in terms of the promotion and product combinations and its excellent presentation. DHL is certainly a safe pair of co-packing hands.”
winter 2010/2011
SABIC Presents Growing Product Portfolio
SABIC recently presented two new product groups from its Performance Chemicals Strategic Business Unit — ethanolamines and ethoxylates — at the 57th SEPAWA Congress and European Detergents Conference. SABIC’s Performance Chemicals Business operates three Business Units: Base Products, Functional Polymers and Functional Chemicals. Ethanolamines and ethoxylates, produced at SABIC’s Saudi Kayan plant in Jubail, Saudi Arabia, are part of the Functional Chemicals product range and are used in household detergents and personal care products. “SABIC’s Performance Chemicals Business aims to diversify the SABIC product portfolio and accelerate the exploration of new chemical and polymer value chains to meet our customers’ needs,” said Rusmir Niksic, SABIC General Manager, Functional Chemicals. “The European market is one of the key areas for SABIC’s growth strategy in performance chemicals; the company aims to expand its networks in sales, marketing and distribution. SABIC intends to combine its knowledge of customer desired applications and processes, product quality, technology platforms, customer service excellence and security of feedstock supply to create value, facilitate growth and spur innovation for its European customers.” Turki Al-Hamdan, SABIC Global Business Manager, Ethoxylates and Amines, added: “At SEPAWA, we introduced our initial product portfolio, including a range of fatty alcohol ethoxylates and polyethyleneglycols. In the next few years, we also plan to launch additional chemistries that include polysorbates, castor oil ethoxylates and other products required by our global customers. SABIC’s established position in ethylene oxide and the recently announced natural fatty alcohol project will be leveraged to create value for the ersonal Care Anz_A5 quer Pf 25.11.2009 15:30 Uhr Seite 1 company’s customers (www.sabic.com).
C
2010/2011 winter
Turn Up the Volume, Turn On the Light
At the recent SCS Formulate 2010 event, Croda presented a novel solution to flat, limp hair — Voluminis — that delivers exceptional volume from rinse-off conditioners. Hair volume is closely associated with hair health in the consumer mind; so, many people are seeking fullness and bounce as signs of vitality. Voluminis offers the opportunity for touchably soft volumized hair with convenience. Salon studies have confirmed consumer perceivable volumizing performance and, in an independent study, Voluminis gave a statistically significant increase in the appearance of hair volume at a 99% confidence level. Also on show was Solaveil SpeXtra, a simpler solution to broad-spectrum sun protection. Combining an exceptional level of UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, these innovative titanium dioxide dispersions uniquely allow the formulation of high SPF, broad-spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient. Solaveil SpeXtra dispersions contain a novel titanium dioxide, specifically designed to deliver an optimal balance of UVA and UVB attenuation. Formulations containing Solaveil SpeXtra as the sole UV filter meet European Commission guidelines for UVA protection, whilst achieving the high SPF efficacy typically expected from conventional sunscreen grades of TiO2. And, if you’re working in the dark, Croda’s Emulsifier Selector will open your eyes to a world of practical and creative emulsification solutions. Their online Emulsifier Selector tool navigates you through the complexities of emulsification selection. It’s an easy to use, interactive tool that provides a wide range of emulsification options to satisfy even the most adventurous formulator. It offers a time efficient route to innovative formulating, and has been tried and tested to deliver solutions to many of the most challenging formulation systems (http://pceurope.crodadirect.com). M
Y
CM
MY
CY CMY
K
7
News and Products Echium for Skin Health
in-cosmetics Returns to Milan for 2011
With the Italian cosmetics and toiletries market worth €9.1 billion, hot on the heels of France (€12.8 billion) and Germany (€10.5 billion), it’s no surprise that in-cosmetics, the leading global business platform for personal care ingredients, is heading to Milan’s Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre on 29–31 March 2011. With just a few months to go, the 2011 show is already almost as big as the 2010 20th anniversary show in Paris. More than 500 exhibitors of raw materials and ingredients, research laboratories, software providers, industry associations and leading publications are expected to attend, including major players such as Croda, DSM, Dow Chemical and Rhodia, as well as a number of newcomers from China, India, Italy and South Korea. Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director, commented: “With so many key industry participants attending the show, in-cosmetics has become a must-attend event in the personal care industry calendar, offering a crucial insight into scientific advances, emerging markets and an unrivalled educational programme. It also has an unprecedented reputation for innovation and is an excellent source of industry expertise. The event is on target to deliver yet another successful show.” The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier, Beraca, attracts more than two thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging. Showcasing a range of innovative ecodesigned product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry. Other highlights at in-cosmetics include the hugely popular Innovation Zone, presenting some of the latest ingredients launched by exhibitors and the most innovative beauty products selected by Mintel Beauty Innovation, workshops and scientific seminars, marketing trend presentations, regulatory seminars and innovation seminars (www.in-cosmetics.com).
Our skin is our largest organ, and it functions to protect the body against environmental stressors. The epidermis comprises layers of corneocytes and lipid membranes. These lipids play a vital role in controlling inflammation-based skin conditions. Lacking important desaturase enzymes, the skin is unable to restructuring the lipids we obtain from our diet. The lipids in our skin are a reflection of our diets. Common western diets are often high in omega-6s — linoleic acid (LA) and arachidonic acid (ARA) — the latter of which is associated with increased inflammation. Echium plantagineum is a novel food-approved source of the omega-3s stearidonic acid (SDA, 14%) and alpha linolenic acid (ALA, 30%), as well as the omega-6, gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 12%). SDA is a precursor of the fish fatty acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which is well known for its anti-inflammatory action. Multiple studies have shown that SDA is effectively converted to EPA by the liver, at around 25–30%. Also, GLA, recognized for its anti-inflammatory action, is valued for its role in improving skin health, as shown by its application in many creams and skincare supplements. The effectiveness of Echium comes from its unique fatty acid profile, which the liver can use to create more elongated fatty acids. This is especially true for SDA, which the liver converts to EPA. The combination of EPA and GLA leads to two advantages: it creates an enormous set of anti-inflammatory eicosanoids; and decreases the production of ARA. These two effects prevent an exaggerated inflammatory reaction, which causes skin redness and damage. Echium oil’s fatty acid profile presents the body with the building blocks to maintain healthy, clear skin, as demonstrated in both topical application and oral supplementation studies (www.bioriginal.com).
With
so
many
key
industry
participants attending the show, in-cosmetics has become a mustattend event in the personal care industry calendar.
Natural Q10 Alternative
Mibelle Biochemistry has launched a new Ecocert-certified energizing and time fighting active — Sunflower Shoot Active — that reactivates ATP production, delays the senescence of skin cells and regulates gene expression to protect the cellular matrix. With age, our cells produce less energy and fewer antioxidants. Moreover, the level of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, increases. This leads to a loss of skin elasticity and firmness and the appearance of wrinkles. Sunflower Shoot Active is a purified extract of organic sunflower shoots. Shoots have naturally occurring levels of nutrients (vitamins, antioxidants and phytonutrients) that are higher than the corresponding mature plant. Gene array analysis, as well as in vitro studies performed on fibroblasts and on reconstructed epidermis cells, have shown the capacity of Sunflower Shoot Active to reverse the ageing process by stimulating the cellular production of energy and antioxidants, stimulating the build-up of ECM proteins and inhibiting their degradation by MMP and reinforcing the skin barrier. For more information, visit www.mibellebiochemistry.com.
8
winter 2010/2011
Sustainable Personal Care Production in Belarus
GEA Liquid Processing (www.gea-liquid.dk) is taking part in a new €3 million turnkey project for Lebortovo Capital Partners Ltd in the Mogilev region of Belarus. The fully automatic, multipurpose production line from GEA will produce skincare and liquid household cleaning products for the local market, significantly reducing the region’s dependence on imported products. The new production facility, Svoboda, will operate according to international hygiene and production standards. The products themselves will fall into the category of green and natural products containing the minimum of additives and will be produced to meet the highest standard for sustainability while maintaining superior product quality. In line with the trend in the industry, the objective is also to reduce manufacturing costs, waste, energy consumption and the emission of carbon dioxide. GEA Liquid Processing, part of GEA Process Engineering, is the main contractor for the project responsible for designing the production line, supplying the key equipment and handling the installation and commissioning. The company will use its expertise and knowledge of best practice and benchmarking for process technology in the personal care industry to ensure that the new plant meets the highest international standards for hygiene, product quality and production. Equipment supplied directly by GEA includes raw material reception, raw material storage, dosage systems, BATCH FORMULA Mixing Systems, final product storage and Clean-in-Place (CIP) installation. The plant will be fully automated with a recipe-controlled process. Sergey Krivenko, Chief Technologist at Svoboda said that his company chose GEA Liquid Processing because of the high level of hygiene laid down in the design.
According to Thorsten Vammen, Director of Sales at GEA Liquid Processing, this hygienic design was achieved by approaching the project from a pharmaceutical or food industry perspective. “Traditionally, personal care production sites were designed on the basis of best practice from the chemical industry; that is, nonclean,” he explained. “However, we adopted a super-clean policy similar to that used in the food and pharmaceutical industries. This level of hygiene control means we have avoided the use of unwanted additives.”
Azelis Acquires YDS
Azelis (www.azelis.com), the leading pan-European distributor of specialty chemicals, has announced the acquisition of YDS Chemicals, a Belgian-based distributor of specialty ingredients. YDS Chemicals specializes in the distribution of personal and home care ingredients, pharmaceutical excipients, and specialty food and performance chemicals in the Benelux market. The YDS entrepreneurial business, founded by Yves De Somere in 1992, offers a large variety of specialty products such as adjuvants for crop protection, surfactants, oleochemicals, textile auxiliaries and food ingredients. With this regional acquisition, Azelis continues to reinforce its activities in the Benelux within the personal care, chemical industries and food and health business lines. “We are very happy to welcome YDS to the Azelis Group,” said Joris Coppye, Chief Executive Officer of Azelis. “Their business complements our industry focused product range. The combined organizations will ensure a leading position in the Benelux market and give greater synergies, creating new business and operational opportunities for our customers in the three main business areas. YDS is also a perfect fit as their strong entrepreneurial spirit and business focus is in line with the DNA of Azelis.” Yves De Somere, General Manager of YDS, added: “Combining YDS’ and Azelis’ activities is a logical step for the future growth of YDS. Our business is not just about products. Our core business is to provide effective solutions for customer issues and this is where the combined strength of Azelis and YDS brings real added value. Our young and highly qualified team of 30 people is looking forward to working together with the knowledgeable and focused sales team of Azelis.”
Dr. Fischer Launches Lyc-o-Mato-Based Cosmetics
LycoRed, Ltd (www.lycored.com) has announced that Lyc-O-Mato lycopene complex is the key ingredient in Dr. Fischer’s carotenoid complex-based Genesis Age-Control Anti-Wrinkle Lycopene range. Dr. Fischer, a brand of Fischer Pharmaceuticals, is a world leader in the development and manufacture of advanced healthcare preparations in the fields of dermatology, ophthalmology and nutraceuticals, and an expert in sun protection and antiageing. The new Dr. Fischer Genesis range of skincare and skin-protection dermacosmetic products follows multiple studies, conducted by LycoRed, demonstrating that Lyc-O-Mato — a natural red ripe tomato extract — has the ability to protect skin from premature ageing, wrinkling and other damaging effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. “In placebocontrolled human studies, orally taken lycopene showed beneficial effects on skin density, thickness and smoothness, as well as reduced photodamage,” says David Djerassi, Wellness and Nutricosmetics expert for LycoRed, Ltd. “It’s well established that nine out of ten cases of premature skin ageing is caused by exposure to sun radiation. What’s not as well known is that 70% of sun-induced skin damage is caused during regular daily activities and not necessarily at the beach or pool,” states Tali Dabas, Marketing Manager at Dr. Fischer. “The 100% Natural Lycopene Genesis line employs the powerful antioxidant activity of a carotenoid complex that also includes beta-carotene, phytofluene and phytoene,” she adds. According to Dabas, these carotenoids, together with very high, broad spectrum UVB (SPF 30) and UVA (PA +++) protection, act to protect the epidermal and dermal layers from the cellular and DNA damage caused by sunlight, climate, stress, pollution and even the foods we ingest. “By using our ultra-pure Lyc-OMato tomato-derived carotenoid complex, together with UV-filtering compounds, Dr. Fischer’s Genesis Age-Control line of dermacosmetics is able to offer consumers protection from the accelerated wrinkling and premature ageing that comes from daily UV exposure” notes Udi Alroy, VP Global Marketing and Sales at LycoRed. “This antiwrinkle range comes in an oil-free complex that allows for the effective formulation of lightly textured products for normal/ combination to dry skin.”
2010/2011 winter
In placebocontrolled human studies, orally taken lycopene showed beneficial effects on skin density, thickness and smoothness. 9
Opinion
More Harmful Than
Nuclear Waste?
N
o other cosmetic
of various parabens by using
risk to human health. But, when
study would require 109 years
ingredients have
both in vitro and in vivo methods.
it is considered that the dose
of continuous daily exposure to
come in for such
As it is generally accepted that
employed to achieve this effect
0.05 mg/kg bodyweight/day (a
an aggressive
evidence produced by the
was in the area of being 4000
typical daily exposure for users of
campaign
latter method outweighs that
times greater than any normal
cosmetic products)!
against their use for as long as I
of the former, I will focus entirely
daily exposure, it seems even
can remember, and I fail to see
on the in vivo results. Using a rat
less likely. Moreover, the route of
the daily ingestion of the many
why. Amazingly, the majority
uterotrophic assay, Routledge
administration was subcutaneous
phytoestrogens that are present
of the concerns expressed
observed no estrogenic activity
injection. This route avoids
in our food are of no concern,
are, ultimately, the result of the
for methylparaben, no estrogenic
contact with esterases within
perhaps people will understand
publication of only two studies.1,2
activity for ethylparaben and
the dermis and epidermis that
why there is no cause for concern
The results of the Routledge study
recorded a butylparaben effect
would, in “normal” cosmetic
regarding the use of butylparaben
prompted the initiation of the
that was 100,000 times weaker
usage, contribute towards the
in cosmetics, particularly when
second study, but it is interesting to
than oestradiol (propylparaben
biodegradation of the parabens.
it is considered that many of
look very closely at the results (and
was not tested in the in vivo
In other words, this route
these phytoestrogens have
the methodology) in both studies.
section of the study).
exacerbates any adverse effects!
activity levels that are 2000 times
Using several assumptions — most
weaker than oestradiol (that
It is difficult, given limitations
Even at first glance, with an
When one considers that
of space, to fully detail the
activity that was 100,000 times
of which are not accurate, but
is, 50 times more “potent” than
analysis of these papers, but I will
weaker than oestradiol, it would
all of which give a “worst-case
butylparaben). It is extremely
summarize as best I can without
seem that it is unlikely that even
scenario” — I have calculated
important to note that this study
losing the “flavour.” Routledge
the most “potent” paraben
that, to achieve the test dose of
measured only estrogenic activity
measured the estrogenic activity
would be expected to pose a
butylparaben employed in this
— the ability of a substance
10
winter 2010/2011
Now there’s a headline to catch your eye! Let me state my own position, right at the start of this article: I believe that there is no risk to human health from the continued use of parabens in cosmetics. I have no vested interest in parabens because, although my employer does sell parabens and paraben-based blends, we also offer many — if not most — of the alternative options, both traditional preservatives and “secondary antimicrobials.” If I believed that there was genuine cause for concern regarding the use of parabens, I would put an equal amount of time and energy into promoting the benefits of the alternatives and also into correcting people who quote incorrect information in Internet discussion groups as I currently do in defence of parabens! I will also make it clear that the content of this article is my own personal opinion and I am not acting as a representative of any organization. to bind to estrogen receptors.
as claimed. Without this, a large
both the blanks and the tissue
suggest that parabens are
This property is not readily
body of work becomes irrelevant
samples. This, of course, may
absorbed, metabolized and
interchangeable with estrogen
as, if the parabens are not present
be argued as being open to
excreted. Add this information to
mimicry; the two are different,
in the tissues, the claimed adverse
interpretation, but to suggest
the questions I have raised above,
although not necessarily entirely
effects cannot occur! There has
that the parabens “detected”
and it could be argued that the
unrelated. An estrogen mimic will
been wide and varied criticism
in the tissue samples had come
weight of evidence is strongly
have estrogenic activity, but the
of this study, and I don’t intend
from a cosmetic product, had
in favour of parabens not being
converse is not automatically the
to indulge in listing its every flaw,
been absorbed through the
present in human breast cancer
case, as the extent of estrogen
weakness and error. The major
skin, had been at least partially
tissue. Having (hopefully) removed
mimicry will depend on the
issue, and one that few people
degraded by skin- and blood-
one of the cornerstones of the
effects of the substance on the
are aware of, is the fact that the
borne esterases and managed
“antiparabens” arguments, it is
global gene expression of the cells
workers also detected intact
to lodge in breast cancer tissue,
my belief that this message should
in question. For the record, a study
parabens in the blank controls.
not only at the same ratios as
be spread more widely to counter
has been done to investigate
This is a fairly serious issue, as one
those in the contaminated
the misinformation that currently
this property in parabens, and
would expect this observation to
blanks, but also at (statistically)
abounds regarding the safety
the results demonstrated that
cast some doubt on the results
the same concentrations, seems
of parabens. Let’s look more
there were significant differences
from the tissue samples. Yet, it
to be stretching the imagination
closely at some of the alternatives;
between the effects of parabens
was dismissed by Darbre as the
somewhat! I accept that, in
what problems may be lurking
and oestradiol — and even
result of contamination, despite
some ways, this evidence is
ahead as the exposure to these
between the different parabens
them finding a total parabens
circumstantial, but these are
alternatives grows? They may be
themselves — on global gene
concentration in one of the blank
two major coincidences (the
equally safe — at current levels of
expression of MCF-7 cancer cells.3
samples that was higher than the
concentrations and the ratios),
exposure — but … PHM
The results of this study mean
total parabens concentrations
and this should at least throw
that it is incorrect to describe any
in 12 out of the 20 tissue samples!
considerable doubt over the
of the parabens as “estrogen
This begs the question as to why
veracity of the findings of this
mimics” or, consequently,
it was assumed that the blanks
study, especially when the serious
“hormone disruptors,” as is often
were contaminated, but the
implications of the subsequently
seen to be the case.
tissues were not, especially given
made claims are considered.
Moving on to the study by
that there was no overall statistical
There is little evidence to
Darbre, in which the authors
difference in the parabens
support a claim that parabens
claimed to have detected
concentrations of either the tissue
would migrate to breast cancer
intact parabens in human breast
samples or the blank controls.
tissue … or any other tissues. There
cancer tissue, this study is more
Moreover, the ratios of the
have been many studies during
or less the cornerstone of much
different parabens were broadly
the last few decades that have
of the subsequent work, which
the same in all samples, which
measured parabens, conjugated
has mostly been based on the
would tend to suggest that
parabens and the common
supposition that Darbre did
the source of the parabens
metabolite, p-hydroxybenzoic
indeed detect intact parabens
might have been the same for
acid, in urine, which would
2010/2011 winter
References
1. E.J. Routledge, et al., Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol. 153, 12–19 (1998). 2. P.D. Darbre, et al., J. Appl. Toxicol. 24, 5–13 (2004). 3. D. Pugazhendi, A.J. Sadler and P.D. Darbre, J. Appl. Toxicol, 27, 67–77 (2006).
For more information
Dene Godfrey dene62@hotmail.co.uk Visit http://tiny.cc/kld0h for more information.
11
Antiageing
Lifespan Versus
Health Span Compared with advances made in other areas of science and technology, increases in the average lifespan of humans from the beginning of the 20th century until now have not been particularly impressive. Some countries, such as Russia, have actually experienced lifespan declines. Predictions by demographers of a drop in US lifespans in this century are based on compelling evidence of declining health amongst the present generation of teens and twenty somethings. Our poor record of extending the human lifespan is attributable to the fact that medical technologies and pharmaceutical research have focused more on keeping sick people alive than on preventing the diseases and disabilities related to ageing.
T
he average person
to rise, the policy of treating
hour — goes on diabetes and
spends more
disease rather then preventing
its complications. The direct
recognized diseases of ageing
Ageing and the widely
than 90% of their
disease is unsustainable. At
cost of obesity to the NHS has
are not inevitable consequences
lifetime medical
some point during the next
been estimated at £4.2 billion
of living longer. Ageing is not
expenditure during
10–20 years, the result will be that
per annum and is climbing year
in itself the cause of diabetes,
the last 5 years of life. Although
healthcare — and consequently
on year.
obesity, heart disease, cancer
average lifespans have increased
lifespan — will be severely
moderately during the past
rationed, or national budgets
two decades, health span, the
for healthcare will consume
amount of time that one enjoys
or Alzheimer’s. Nor does ageing necessarily lead to the impairment
more than the total government
What You Think You Know About Ageing is Wrong!
a healthy, independent and
revenues for all public services.
This applies whether you are a
memory or intelligence. By
productive life, has not kept pace.
Preventable diseases such as
layman, physician, political leader,
modifying your diet and daily
In fact, health spans appear to be
type 2 diabetes, many cancers
science journalist, social scientist or
routine, staying physically and
decreasing in the US/UK; parents
and cardiovascular diseases
an author of books and articles on
mentally active, adopting
presently aged between 45 and
are increasing in incidence at
the subject. To begin the process
preventive lifestyle practices and
60 may, on average, outlive
unprecedented rates in the
of dismantling the prevailing myths
seeking appropriate medical
their children for the first time in
developed world. About 10%
and misconceptions, here are a
interventions to repair, replace
history. As medical costs continue
of NHS spending — £1 million/
few facts to consider.
and renovate deteriorated body
12
of emotional health, physical capacity, libido, cognition,
winter 2010/2011
parts and capabilities, virtually
increased population of older
all of the diseases normally
citizens will be a burden on the
associated with chronological
younger members of society fail
ageing can be either delayed,
to understand one very simple
prevented or even reversed.
fact: many people will live longer
Adopting preventive strategies at
because they are free of the
an individual level can radically
disabling medical conditions
lower the mortality rate from
that presently drain the wealth,
disease. Unfortunately, the
vitality and productivity from
institutionalized profit motive
society. It is foolish to presume that
driving the emphasis on treatment
people will somehow magically
versus prevention deprives the
live substantially longer without
majority of the world’s population
concurrent improvements in their
of the benefits of increased
health and vitality. An elderly
longevity and improved health
professional person who is still
during later life. Only those
healthy, energetic and mentally
individuals who take personal
alert benefits from additional
responsibility for their health can
years of work experience,
expect to achieve improved
judgment and maturity. Think
health and lifespans.
about it. Given the choice
An ageing population will not
between two surgeons, both of
be a drag on society, the young
whom are fit and healthy, would
or the economy. Precisely the
you prefer the doctor with 40 years
opposite scenario to this almost
of experience and thousands
universally predicted calamity
of operations under their belt to
will actually ensue. The science
remove your ruptured appendix
commentators and social
or the surgeon with 5 years and
scientists who contend that an
only 100 operations? Industry is
2010/2011 winter
Ageing Faster, Living Longer
The decline in the health status of the average British or American citizen is not principally a natural or inevitable consequence of human evolution, nor is it due to the rise of new diseases or the deterioration of the quality of the environment in which we live, although environmental factors do militate against increasing lifespans. The causes are simple and well known. • Lifespans are increasing because advances in medical technology and pharmaceuticals are keeping sick people alive longer — but at a very high and untenable cost — not because diseases and disabilities are being prevented or that people are staying healthy longer. • Obesity and lifestyle factors, not ageing, are the principal cause of diabetes, hypertension, most heart conditions and most cancers. Obesity is also a major causal factor for gastric reflux disease, gall bladder disease, asthma and lumbosacral spine degeneration. • Lack of regular exercise compounds the negative medical consequences of obesity and is a risk factor for osteoporosis, as well as a wide range of adverse physical, emotional and neurological conditions. • Probably the largest contributor to early ageing and the diseases associated with ageing is poor diet. The excessive consumption of red meat, processed foods, sugars and high fructose corn syrup, as well as trans fats and the lack of omega-3-rich foods and polyphenols from fruits and green leafy vegetables, and overeating in general, are all enemies of human health span and longevity. • Chronic unresolved stress results in endocrine imbalances, immune system dysfunction, inflammation, sleep disorders and neurological impairment. • Unwitting exposure to unhealthful chemicals in the environment promotes disease. Antibiotics, synthetic endocrines, anabolic steroids and other drugs used on livestock, as well as antidepressants, hormones and other pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCP) contained in drinking water are toxins that negatively impact human health and longevity. It is difficult to accurately quantify the health cost of these toxins but many are known to cause serious diseases at relatively low concentrations. Air pollution, common in all urban areas, is a known risk factor for shortened lifespans and many serious diseases.
13
Antiageing A Prescription for Longevity.
Anyone can substantially enhance both their health span and lifespan by adopting the following measures: • Stop using tobacco products of all types and limit alcohol use to no more then 3 glasses of wine or 3 ounces of spirits per day. • Reduce, or better yet, eliminate all processed foods, fast foods and sweetened beverages. Make green leafy vegetables your primary food group. Reduce or eliminate red meat from your diet. • Take a pill! Add the following supplements to your daily routine. - Resveratrol and the related compound, pterostilbene (250–1000 mg) - Non-fish oil-derived omega-3 with EPA and DHA (at least 1000 mg) - A multi-antioxidant complex such as Bio Quench (500–1000 mg) - Vitamin D (10,000 IU) - Acetyl L-carnitine and alpha lipoic acid supplements (250 mg) - Curcumin, also known as turmeric (1–2 g/day) - A multivitamin with low levels of the B vitamins (one capsule or tablet daily) - Vitamin C, preferably the oil-soluble form, ascorbyl palmitate (1 g/day). There are, of course, many other supplements that may have a beneficial impact on health span and longevity but the published scientific evidence best supports the nutrients listed above. The majority of over-the-counter supplements are of no value whatsoever.
If prevention and personal responsibility for health become a reality, the improvements in health span could be the single largest contributor to the US and UK economies in the next 20 years.
clock” that predetermines the
by dedicated professionals
maximum lifespan for a human.
working in diverse fields are
Humans are not “programmed”
creating synergies and mutually
to die at a certain age. We know
reinforcing discoveries that are
what the principal causes of
key to lifespan extension and
ageing are, and we are rapidly
eventually eliminating ageing
closing in on solutions to these
altogether. Developments in
causes. Some, such as the
advanced prosthetics, stem cell
corruption of one’s DNA, and
therapy, organ replacement and
decreasing telomere length,
the prevention and treatment
which occur as cells divide
of cancer, heart disease and
and are replaced, are a bit
neurological conditions such as
more complex than others, but
Alzheimer’s and dementia will
none are impossible to solve. A
mean that those persons who
Manhattan Project styled attack
are presently under 60 years of
on ageing would probably solve
age and in excellent health will
all of these challenges in less than
have a reasonably good chance
10 years. Now that the medical
of living indefinitely. This assumes
and research communities are
that they are financially able to
beginning to treat ageing as
afford the treatments, drugs and
any other disease, rather than
therapeutic procedures that
accepting it as inevitable, and
will become available during
simply focusing on making older
the next 30 years. Beyond 2040,
people more comfortable,
ageing will simply be a chronic
we can expect dramatic
condition that is treatable or
breakthroughs in life extension.
preventable at a reasonable
Each new breakthrough will
cost to the patient. The timing
give humans a bit more time
of one’s death will become a
during which new discoveries
matter of individual choice.
will be made that will create
Accidents and needless wars
stepping stones to the final goal
regarding resources will become
of indefinite lifespan.
the main causes of death in the
There is no silver bullet on the
developed world.
horizon that will dramatically
Contrary to what one
extend human lifespan. The
leading antiageing scientist
increase will come in small
contends, it is not necessary to
steps that will turn ageing from
fully comprehend the incredibly
a debilitating terminal disease
complex metabolic process to
into a treatable condition, as has
develop effective drugs and
been the case with diseases such
other prevention and treatment
as diabetes, HIV-AIDS, malaria
modalities against ageing.
and many others.
Many of the most efficacious
already seeing a surge in demand
medical treatments. If prevention
for older workers compared with
and personal responsibility for
their less experienced colleagues
health become a reality, the
are rapidly increasing our ability
work by targeting unidentified
in many developed countries.
improvements in health span
to comprehend the intricacies
biological processes that they
As health span increases, we
could be the single largest
of the metabolic process. This
were not initially designed to
will see people taking up new
contributor to the US and UK
will lead to the design of new
target. Partial knowledge of
careers and starting university
economies in the next 20 years.
strategies to prevent or reverse
the biological processes being
at the age of 50 and older,
The growing influence that an
ageing and result in quantum
targeted, coupled with the
professional athletes in their 40s
educated and affluent-but-older
leaps in human longevity during
intelligent application of trial and
and 50s will challenge competitors
population exerts on extending
the coming decade. By 2020,
error, is an effective and rational
who are decades younger, and
health and longevity virtually
computers and other medical
life extension strategy. PHM
the average retirement age
ensures that the answers will be
devices will be powerful and
will increase dramatically —
found to the challenges of life
cheap enough to give scientists
which means that many more
extension within no more than a
the tools they need to virtually
people will be paying taxes and
few decades.
stop the ageing process in
contributing to the GNP for 5–20
Advances in computing power
There is no intrinsic biological
animals. This goal has already
years longer during their lifetimes.
limit to the number of years that
been achieved in the lab. The
Importantly, fewer people will be
humans can live healthy, vital,
convergence of thousands of
drawing retirement and disability
independent lives. Scientists have
independent discoveries and
payments or requiring costly
yet to identify a ticking “biological
incremental breakthroughs
14
pharmaceuticals in use today
For more information
James Betz Biotivia Bioceuticals LLC 1 River Place, Suite 1001 New York, New York 10036, USA. Tel. +1 800 458 0993 james@biotivia.com www.biotivia.co.uk
winter 2010/2011
Antiageing
Living to One
Hundred is Easy!
But is it Worth it?
Roger Coghill, a Cambridge-trained biologist with his own bioelectromagnetics laboratory, discusses how you can not only grow old healthily, but also remain active, agile and able to enjoy life to the full.
M
odern
of protecting these processes is
medicine
not being addressed in today’s
is based on
medical practices. Here’s a few
biochemistry,
examples: your heart rate is
tested in clinical
controlled by an electric field that
Content 1985 1996 (mg/100 g)
Difference (%)
Broccoli
Folic acid
43
23
-52
Broccoli
Calcium
103
33
-68
trials and relies on chemicals to
emanates from the heart’s sino-
Green beans
Vitamin B6
140
55
-61
correct bodily dysfunctions, which
atrial node; all the time you are
Carrot
Magnesium
21
9
-57
has led to a dramatic growth
alive, your brain sends out electric
Spinach
Vitamin C
51
21
-58
in pharmaceutical products
signals (EEG-detected signals or
Banana
Folic acid
23
3
-84
during the last five decades.
“brain rhythms”) to communicate
But, living organisms also use
and receive instructions from
electrochemistry to control vital
the many trillions of cells in your
life processes, and the importance
body; and when you cut your
16
Apple
Vitamin C
5
1
-80
Strawberry
Vitamin C
60
13
-67
Table I: The decreasing vitamin and mineral content of various fruits and vegetables.
winter 2010/2011
To Sleep, to Age
Getting a good night’s rest is key to healthy old age and vitality. Sleep comes in stages, but the most important of these, from a health viewpoint, is REM (Random Eye Movement) sleep. Our eye muscles are activated during REM sleep because the brain is sending out powerful signals to the cells to initiate mitosis. This mitosis or cell division ensures that your body maintains its proper number of cells. Benzodiazepine sleeping pills may get you to sleep, but they also destroy the natural pattern of sleep. So, with diazepam-type pills, you may wake up feeling headachy and tired, as if you’d never been to sleep at all. Nature’s own sleeping medication is the melatonin you make each night in your brain, which controls the sleep–wake cycle. Some scientists at Battelle in the 1980s showed that EMFs suppress the normal nighttime rise in melatonin synthesis and suggested that this could be a cause of breast cancer. As we get older, our ability to synthesize melatonin wanes; so, by the age of 70, we make only a tenth of the melatonin we used to when 40. Melatonin is also a powerful antioxidant and is up to five times more powerful than most vitamins. This is important because the major and most favoured theory of ageing is the free radical theory developed by Denham Harman. He proposed that our bodies are gradually overwhelmed by free radial damage as, with age, the increasing absence of melatonin to neutralize free radicals may therefore be a crucial factor in the ageing process. But, simply taking synthetic versions of melatonin (available in tablets in the US or on the Internet, but only available on prescription in the UK) does not appear to be the answer: the dose of melatonin in one tablet alone is thousands of times more than Nature’s nightly dose. This may explain why melatonin works for jet lag but not in the long-term for those in need of a good night’s rest. Recently, scientists discovered to their astonishment that plants also contain melatonin, and that this varies enormously between species. It soon became apparent that human beings could make use of this plant-derived melatonin as if they had made it themselves. In other words, plant melatonin is bioavailable to the animal kingdom. Now, this discovery has been utilized to put a legal form of melatonin into the pharmacy and health food store market — derived from certain edible grasses and in the dose levels that Nature has decided, after millions of years of evolution, are optimal for human use. finger, an electrical current of
some other electric field, then the
injury starts the wound repair
chances of good unscrambled
process. Looking after these
messages from the brain reaching
bioelectromagnetic processes is
the cells, to divide and repair, for
the start of healthy longevity.
example, is reduced. When you
Physicists will tell you that when
consider that the average adult
one electric field is created
loses a half billion cells each day,
near another, the first field gets
from the skin, internal organs,
perturbed and nothing in the
blood and so on, and that these
world can stop this fundamental
are exquisitely replaced during the
rule of nature. The reason is that all
night by cell division (mitosis), then
electrons are negatively charged,
the importance of unperturbed
and like charges repel each other.
brain rhythms becomes clear.
Arguably, for precisely this reason,
If you think that our modern
many living organisms have made
environment doesn’t create
use of alternating electric fields in
fields strong enough to cause
their vital life processes, because
biological effects (this being the
artificial alternating currents and
official view of the International
the fields they give rise to did not
Commission on Non-Ionizing
exist until a century or two ago.
Radiation Protection [ICNIRP],
Thus, endogenous biological
a body closely linked to the
signals enjoyed a good signal-
power and telecommunications
to-noise ratio. Most creatures
industries), think again: switching
tend to sleep at night, when that
on a single light bulb in any part
biggest source of electromagnetic
of a large office block has been
fields — the sun — has left the sky,
shown to alter the brain rhythms
enabling internal electric signals
of someone sitting in its basement,
to be more easily collected by
and to increase their amplitude
a receiver. If the transmission of
by way of response. Thousands of
instructions to cells is disturbed by
peer reviewed studies disagree
2010/2011 winter
with ICNIRP’s view, and some of
and exposure to EMFs has been a
them show that overexposure
recurring research result of those
to EMFs (electromagnetic fields)
working independently in this
is associated with an over-
controversial field (although it is
representation of childhood
constantly being denied by the
leukemia. At the other end of the
utilities and mobile phone firms, for
age spectrum, however, despite
obvious reasons). PHM
a handful of research studies linking Alzheimer’s and other neurodegenerative diseases with EMFs, little research has been done. I have seen enough studies to conclude that avoiding EMFs is a good idea for anyone wishing to stay healthy for a long time. After all, cancer and heart disease are the two major causes of mortality: the link between both of these
For more information
Roger Coghill Director Asphalia Food Products Ltd Alexander House, Lower Race Pontypool, Torfaen NP4 5UH, UK. Tel. +44 1495 752 122 roger@cogreslab.co.uk www.asphalia.co.uk
Vitamins, Alcohol and Exercise
My third piece of advice (avoiding EMFs and the regular ingestion of natural melatonin being the first two) is to avoid smoking (an admitted cause of lung cancer) and any other habit that suppresses your immune system. Our cellular immune system is our primary defence against debilitating diseases and, as we get older, we really need to look after it. Interestingly, one important type of white blood cell, the lymphocyte, emits melatonin at five times the physiological level when challenged by a mitogen. Another example of how defensively important that biomolecule is. You can help your immune system to stay in good condition by eating fresh vegetables. And I do mean fresh, not those in “modified atmosphere” packaging often sold in supermarkets. When you buy a packaged lettuce mixture, it looks fresh enough; but this is because the oxygen that would have oxidized it has been replaced with carbon dioxide. After 6 months, such produce still looks fresh! But, very quickly after opening the packaging, it deteriorates visibly. What you don’t see, though, is that its nutritional value has fallen dramatically. Table I shows just how much the vitamin and mineral content of many vegetables has fallen in the last few decades … a position that has worsened since its compilation. The vitamins in the table, such as folic acid, are all antioxidants, so will protect against free radical damage. Another thing about fruits and vegetables is that they are often adulterated with toxic chemicals. All this adds up to the advice to grow your own: the exercise is good for you (regularly lifting moderately heavy weights, such as a shovelful of earth, is said to diminish the likelihood of osteoporosis). There are 300,000 acres of prime growing land in domestic gardens or allotments in the UK, with 80% of households having access to a garden according to the Soil Association (www.soilassociation.org). If you cannot grow your own, then consider an organic food source or a farmer’s market, and close your eyes to the slightly more irregular shapes of the produce you buy! The question of alcohol is somewhat debatable: a couple of glasses of red wine may be helpful for your heart, because of the polyphenol antioxidants they contain, but excessive drinking is going to damage your liver. Of course, there are contraindications regarding the effects of polyphenols in vivo so, when in doubt, hesitate. The science is as yet far from incontrovertible and no one, so far, has died of not drinking alcohol. Finally, exercise: my old dad was still climbing a ladder when he was 87. I’ll warrant it didn’t do his neighbour’s blood pressure much good when they saw him in the roof, and perhaps that’s an extreme example. However, a regular walk on the country could be turned into a health-giving hobby and deliver good clean air into your lungs at the same time. Denham Harman ran 2 miles a day until a back injury stopped him from doing so at the age of 82. Born in 1916, he has never smoked and drinks alcohol in moderation; he’s now 94. Most of this antiageing advice is conceivably quite obvious; but, how many of us follow it, preferring to rely on potions, ointments and bottled miracles? And are we really talking about longevity … or simply fooling people about our age? Is that, to reiterate the question in the title, really worth it? I leave you to decide.
17
Antiageing
Skin Ageing
From Functional Impairment
to Cosmetic Solutions
in-cosmetics, the leading trade exhibition for personal care ingredients, is heading to Milan in 2011 (29–31 March). Along with ingredient manufacturers and suppliers, research laboratories and industry associations exhibiting at the show, other highlights include the scientific seminars delivered by a host of international specialists who are keen to share their expertise. Dr Luigi Rigano from Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research in Milan gives Pure Health Magazine a sneak preview of the skin ageing seminar scheduled for 30 March.
S
kin ageing remains
in melanocytes occur as well as
be considered. First of all, the
actives and formulations. Four key
a hot topic, not just
disturbances in signalling events
active ingredient’s structure gives
strategies are possible when using
within the personal
with other cell types, leading to the
a preliminary indication of its
cosmetic tools:
care ingredients
formation of age spots.
capability to penetrate the skin,
• to support the key functions of the
industry, but across the
Prof. Enzo Berardesca (San
but the difficulty in evaluating
extracellular matrix, the topical
beauty sector as a whole. I have
Gallicano Dermatological
the skin delivery process remains
supplementation of biological
read countless articles during
Institute, Italy) will describe the
high. Moreover, the formulation
precursors and the programming
the years on photoageing, the
quantification of skin ageing
should be designed in such a way
of equilibrated skin moisturization
environmental effects on skin and
parameters that are necessary
that active ingredients penetrate
strategies by new molecules
formulations intended to slow down
for the proper efficacy evaluation
the stratum corneum rather than
• to organize anti-free radical
the ageing process, so our seminar
of cosmetic and dietary
stay behind in the formulation.
strategies, as skin defences
will cover the whole spectrum —
supplements. His presentation will
Wiechers will also look at whether
are continuously challenged
from functional impairment of the
review some of the most recent
skin penetration characteristics
by reactive chemical species,
skin to cosmetic solutions. Anthony
techniques that can be applied
change as we age. Indeed, the
while their radical quenching
Rawlings (AVR Consulting Ltd, UK)
to the investigation of skin ageing
stratum corneum becomes thinner
capability is progressively
will review the latest research into
phenomena. As an example,
as one gets older, which suggests a
the key cellular and biochemical
profilometry and measurements
lower skin penetration. By contrast,
changes that take place when
of mechanical properties of the
methyl nicotinate penetration is
physical sunscreens will avoid
skin tissue ages. To develop better
skin can differentiate between
not affected, despite water levels
photoageing in a safe way
cosmetic products, it is essential
chronological ageing and
in skin being affected. Wiechers
without using an excess of skin-
to understand the physiological
photoageing, which have
will explore how deep the
changes that underlie the
cumulative effects on the skin. Skin
ingredients diffuse into the skin and
phenotypic modifications that
elasticity and other mechanical
at what age consumers should
of structured biological polymers
occur in both intrinsic and extrinsic
properties progressively worsen
start their antiageing treatments.
and the adoption of complex
skin ageing. Disturbances in the
with age and solar elastosis is
anatomy of the skin occur with
reduced • the use of new fillers and
absorbable molecules • reactivating the cell production
Stefano Manfredini
multifaceted strategies could
made evident using ultrasound C
(Dipartimento di Scienze
slow down the appearance
changes in cellular morphology
scanners. Monitoring the skin’s
Farmaceutiche at the University
of skin relaxation and its loss of
and function. A change in
condition with non-invasive tools
of Ferrara, Italy) will discuss the
keratinocyte number and types,
can help to choose personalized
fascinating theme of oxidative
The seminar promises to provide
alteration of the dermoepidermal
treatment options and assess
stress and its testing by molecular
listeners with stimulating
junction composition and
the efficacy of topical and
probes. In ageing, free radicals
educational insights into the
the anomalous expression of
systemic antiageing formulations.
accumulate in response to both
latest scientific discoveries in skin
extracellular molecules all lead to
The importance of dietary
normal biochemical processes
ageing and I look forward to
the formation of dry and wrinkled
supplements as an efficient tool in
and environmental damage,
welcoming delegates from across
skin ageing strategies will
including exposure to UV. Their
the industry. PHM
also be explored.
main effect is to increase the
skin. Functional changes
Prof. Dr Johann W.
18
accumulation of mutations in the
functionality and attractiveness.
For more information
Wiechers (JW Solutions,
nuclear and mitochondrial DNA.
the Netherlands)
Numerous studies have shown
will investigate the
that the susceptibility to damage
dermal delivery of
induced by UV is different from
Dr Luigi Rigano Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research Milan, Italy
antiageing actives.
person to person, suggesting that
(http://web.thecosmetologist.com).
The skin is directly
preventive treatment can be
accessible for topical
customized, based on individual
application, but a
genetic characteristics. In the last
few issues need to
session, I will review innovation in
To find out more about the in-cosmetics scientific seminars, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/ScientificSeminars.
winter 2010/2011
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Green Ingredients
Sustainability within the C&T Markets
An organic or natural positioning in the cosmetics and toiletries sector is no longer regarded as being sufficient. Increasingly, brands are looking at their whole production and supply chain processes to find ways of becoming more sustainable. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, looks at what sustainability means and the steps companies are taking to adopt more sustainable working practices.
S
ustainability is a
the Amazon rainforest are açai,
with the product’s research
sustainable positioning include
broad area with
Brazil nut, pracaxi, buriti oil,
and development. Traditional
Weleda, Dr Hauschka, Aveda
many facets,
cupuaçu and murumuru butter.
knowledge held by native
and Dr Bronner’s Magic Soaps,
inhabitants is taken into
all of which have invested in
communities, the project
consideration and properly
ethical sourcing projects in
research company, Organic
contributes to improving
compensated. Then, after
developing markets. A new
Monitor.1 “For natural/organic
regional development
testing the ingredients in the
initiative for Aveda is its links with
ingredients, it means sourcing,
while preserving the
laboratory and undergoing
Hope for Women, a socially and
processing, the processes
world’s largest rainforest.
a high-quality production
environmentally responsible
involved, social aspects (such
Currently, 1500 people in 58
process, they are launched
fair trade organization that’s
as relationships with growers,
community centres benefit
onto the market, ensuring
committed to providing
suppliers and customers) and
from Beraca’s programme,
their natural and organic
sustainable employment for
offsetting carbon emissions,
which helps to build their
characteristics are preserved
economically disadvantaged
etc.,” he explains. “However
business by providing training
through all the stages of the
women worldwide. As part of
the major areas of sustainability
and expanding marketing
supply chain.
the project, Aveda purchased
that natural and organic
opportunities. All Beraca’s
ingredient companies look
products and services are
at are ethical sourcing and
based on the “tripod” of
green formulations.” The latter
maintains Amarjit Sahota, Director of
20
Focusing on local
native tagua nuts, the largest fair trade sustainably harvested
sustainable development,
Committed to Sustainable Practices
refers to the manner in which
which means their benefits
The Body Shop has been
is to carve out a better future
the ingredients are used in
and impact are analysed
doing ethical sourcing for
for 400 families and help to
cosmetic formulations, to
through economic, social
decades with its Community
preserve 400 acres of rainforest
ensure the finished products
and environmental standards.
Trade Scheme and currently
in Colombia. Collecting tagua
have a lower environmental
Filipe Sabara, Business Director
spends $11.5 million annually
nuts helps to provide incentives
footprint as a result of the
for Beraca, explains what
buying ingredients, gifts and
for local forest inhabitants to
inclusion of green ingredients.
sustainability means to the
accessories from communities
protect the trees and keep the
Although sustainability has
company: “It encompasses
around the world, paying
rainforest intact.
recently become a topical
not only green formulations,
them a fair price and giving
issue for the industry, a number
but also ethical sourcing,
producers access to a global
Bulldog, claims to be the
of ingredient manufacturers,
ecological packaging,
market that would normally be
first natural men’s grooming
such as Beraca and Alban
workplace safety, fair
out of their reach. For example,
line to incorporate fair trade
Muller, have strong ecological
partnerships and responsible
the company buys cocoa
ingredients in its formulations.
roots going back many years.
socio-environmental
beans from the Kuapa Kokoo
They include green tea from
For example, Beraca created
management. Although we
company in Ghana, a fair trade
Sri Lanka, organic shea butter
its Biodiversity Enhancement
are aware that there has been
co-operative with more than
from Northern Ghana, sesame
Programme 10 years ago,
a lot of ‘greenwashing’ within
30,000 small-scale farmers. This
seed oil from Nicaragua,
with an aim is to ensure
the industry, our sustainable
has led to the development of
Brazil nut oil from Peru and
traceability in the supply of raw
concepts are assured by
community projects such as
organic sugar from Paraguay.
materials from Brazilian biomes,
valuable partnerships,
schools and village wells, as
“The ingredients are fantastic
particularly in the Amazon
certifications and awards.”
well as providing farmers with
and it’s an opportunity to
region.2 Key ingredients that
Within the Beraca organization,
income to support their families.
connect with the growers
Beraca sources sustainably from
a new chain of custody begins
Other brands committed to a
and local groups in the
rainforest product export in Colombia’s history. The intention
UK men’s toiletries brand,
winter 2010/2011
developing world,” states Simon Duffy, cofounder of Bulldog. He hopes that more cosmetic companies will opt into fair trade, as it would help to make the process more productive. “We are finding more ingredients and making sure the supply chains are certifiable all the way through,” he says. “A lot more fair trade ingredients have come through in the past couple of years. The Fairtrade Mark is as global one, compared with those covering natural products, and it is also widely understood by consumers.” Organic Monitor finds that it is mainly natural and organic companies that are leading in terms of ethical sourcing and responsibility. “Although large firms such as L’Oréal are making a commitment to sustainability, this is a relatively new area for them,” he points out. “Others, including Unilever, are undertaking ethical sourcing because of pressure from GMOs such as Greenpeace.” Beraca has experienced a surge in demand for sustainable ingredients in Brazil and, worldwide, from its clients that include The Body Shop, Kerastase and Kiehl’s (all L’Oréal brands), Natura, Colgate Palmolive, Unilever, Aveda, Yves Rocher, Shiseido and L’Occitane. Sahota predicts that sustainability
For more information
Imogen Matthews I M Associates 18 Quarry High Street Headington, Oxford OX3 8JT, UK. Tel. +44 1865 764 918 imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
will come to the forefront in the beauty industry and that ethical sourcing will shift from a “nice to have” to
ethical ingredients,” he states.
become mandatory for many
“Growing pressure from brand
companies. “For instance,
owners will ensure that ethical
Unilever has committed to
sourcing and sustainability
only sourcing sustainable
initiatives become more
palm oil, whereas L’Oréal says
widely adopted by ingredient
that it will try to only source
firms.” PHM
2010/2011 winter
References 1. Organic Monitor and Bulldog will participate at next year’s in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations, taking place in Milan, Italy (29–31 March). For more information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com. 2. B eraca will sponsor the in-focus feature, “Sustainable Beauty.”
21
Ingredient Focus
Natural Beauties Flax lignans open the door to a new generation of hair and skincare products — both oral and topical.
I
t may be a cliché, but
flaxseed is so interesting and might
been proven to be antiandrogens,
Beauty from Within effects in terms
beauty really is more than
play an important role in cosmetic
a property that gives them
of reducing hair loss and improving
skin deep. Indeed, how we
applications. Flax has been part
important benefits in terms of hair
skin appearance.
appear on the outside has
of human culture for thousands
and skin beauty when supplied via
such a far-reaching impact
of years. Linen from flax fibre was
the nutraceutical route.
Hope for a Sensitive Subject
on how we feel on the inside that
used to wrap mummies in ancient
it affects everything from personal
Egypt, and Hippocrates suggested
Balancing Hormones
relationships to job satisfaction.
the use of flaxseed for medicinal
Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the
for both men and women —
Basically, if we look good, we feel
purposes. More recently, flax has
potent, reduced form of the male
significantly negatively affecting
so much better — and research
entered the mainstream because
hormone testosterone, plays
their self-image. By the age of 40,
suggests that this is now more
of its many health benefits. Now,
a significant and complex role
half of the male population suffers
important than it has ever been
thanks to its ability to affect both
in human physiology. DHT is an
from androgenic alopecia (AGA),
before. In 2004, 52% of women
internal health and external
androgen, one of the hormones
and antiageing for men in many
rated their looks as very important
appearance, many believe
responsible for the biology of
ways revolves around hair loss.
to their self-esteem.1 However,
that flax is poised to be the next
gender that contributes to
This is a growing market as baby
by 2009, 71% of women cited
breakthrough beauty ingredient,
masculine characteristics such
boomers age … but remain young
“confidence in their appearance”
offering multiple benefits from a
as facial hair and deepening of
in their own eyes. Indeed, men’s
as being important for building
natural platform.
the voice. DHT is also connected
personal care is the fastest growing
to problems such hair loss and
segment in the bath and body care
their self-esteem — rating it higher
Hair loss can be a sensitive subject
than “having a supportive family”
Why Choose Flax?
acne. One way of combating
category, as reported by the
and way ahead of “having a
Flax is one of the richest natural
the negative effects of DHT is to
National Marketing Institute in
rewarding job.”2 In their pursuit of
sources of lignans. Indeed,
use products that can balance
2007. This opens a huge market
beauty, Euromonitor International
flaxseed has a natural lignan
the production of androgens.
for cosmeceuticals and
says that European consumers
concentration that is more than
This is where flax lignans come in.
nutraceuticals that
spent a massive €69.5 billion on
100 times higher than any other
Lignans are potent antiandrogens
can address the needs
cosmetics and toiletries in 2009.
plant source in our diet. Lignans
and research has begun to show
of male consumers.
This is about one third of the total
are phytoestrogens — estrogen-
that they work in various ways in
Androgenic alopecia is
global spend, and ahead of the
like plant compounds that exert
the human body:
the most common type
US (€41 billion) and Japan (€21.7
estrogen-mimicking effects in the
• L ignans increase the production
of hair loss and can be
billion). Against the backdrop
body. They are also important
of Sex Hormone Binding Globulin
defined as a DHT-dependent
of a global recession, this is
antioxidants and have been
(SHBG). SHBG is a protein that
process in which DHT initiates
impressive. It indicates that beauty
shown to have anti-inflammatory
binds to testosterone in the
the shrinkage or miniaturization of
is so important to consumers
actions. Thus, lignans may
bloodstream, making it inactive
the hair follicles so that they are no
that they are willing to spend a
slow down some of the natural
and thus reducing the levels
longer able to support viable hair.
sizeable proportion of their limited
processes that occur during
of free testosterone that are
disposable income to achieve it.
ageing in both men and women.
available to be metabolized into
sponsored by Frutarom, the
And, perhaps most importantly
DHT.4
manufacturer of LinumLife flax
Not surprisingly, with purse strings being squeezed, shoppers these
in terms of beauty, lignans
days want more for their money.
have many benefits, including
5-α-reductase, an enzyme that
the ingredient in fighting hair loss.
They are not content with the
minimizing hair loss and improving
is essential for the conversion of
For 6 months, 10 men consumed
basic types of skin and hair care
skin appearance. The main
testosterone to DHT, thus reducing
250 mg of LinumLife, containing
products that they might have
lignan in flax is secoisolariciresinol-
the amount of DHT produced in
50 mg of SDG. At the end of the
bought back in the 1980s, when
diglucoside (SDG). When ingested,
the body.
6 months, eight men reported
a shampoo just cleansed the hair
SDG is metabolized in the intestine
and a moisturiser simply hydrated
by gut flora into enterodiol and
enzymatic/metabolic pathways
loss condition, whereas one subject
the skin. Today’s consumers want
enterolactone — the so-called
that control androgen release,
reported a marked improvement
products that perform in innovative
‘active mammalian lignans’ —
helping to regulate the body’s
and one subject no improvement.
ways, often achieving multiple
which are then absorbed into
hormonal balance.
A reduced number of lost hairs and
tasks at the same time. In seeking
the bloodstream.3 Once in the
Figure 1 shows a simplified model
a less oily scalp were also reported.
out these added-value products,
bloodstream, these lignans can
of testosterone metabolism
This 90% success rate is an initial
consumers are becoming more
be actively used in the body
and how lignans mediate DHT
indication that shows the positive
and more attracted to products
and often play a valuable role in
production/metabolism. The
effects of LinumLife flax lignans
that have their roots in nature.
mediating the effects of certain
antiandrogenic effects of flax
on one of the biggest aesthetic
This is just one of the reasons why
hormones. For instance, they have
lignans are what provide the
problems for men — thinning hair.
22
• Lignans selectively bind with
An unpublished clinical study
• Lignans moderate other
lignans, shows the efficacy of
modest improvement in their hair
winter 2010/2011
About Linu
mLife LinumLife® is a unique ingredie nt manufactured source of flax by Frutarom. It lignans and is is a concentrate supported by pr beneficial effect d oprietary science s, the dosage re . To achieve quirement of Lin the equivalent of umLife is just 0. around 5–10 g 1–1 g, which is of whole flaxsee of use of Linum d. The small do Life, and its neut sage, the ease ra l ta ste, opens up an for flax lignan ap array of new op plications, such portunities as one-a-day ca toiletries, foods psules and table and much more. ts, cosmetics,
2010/2011 winter
23
Ingredient Focus to-oily skin, facial blackheads, a sebum level of 100–200 µg/cm2 and visible spots on the face. The study showed a significant reduction (34%) in acne lesions and a 20% reduction in seboregulation as measured by sebumetry, a photometric method of measuring sebaceous secretion. Thus, the combination of oral and topical applications with LinumLife and Linumine, respectively, offers an excellent opportunity for acne management.
A New Generation of Cosmetics Flax lignans are a new and exciting ingredient for beauty formulations, both oral and topical. The phytoestrogenic effects of lignans, as they are metabolized and absorbed by the body, play a role in hormonal metabolism. By moderating the production of DHT, the potent form of the main male hormone testosterone, lignans
Figure 1: Regulation of testosterone levels.
contribute to hair health and
Clear Benefits Figure Skin 1 for
it is primarily responsible for
skin appearance. Manufacturers
androgen receptor binding
can therefore look to LinumLife
Oily skin affects many people
and the stimulation of sebum
to provide the next breakthrough
of many ages and is caused
production. However, the
ingredient in the burgeoning
by a variety of factors, such
flax lignan metabolite,
market for products that offer
as genetics, diet, stress and
enterolactone, is able to inhibit
the highly desirable prospect of
hormone levels. Oily skin is
the activity of 5-α-reductase,
beauty and its associated ‘feel
considered to be less aesthetic
which leads to lower DHT levels
good’ factor. PHM
in appearance than ‘normal’
as less testosterone can be
skin and may lead to acne,
converted. Thus, the complex
which can have a significant
mechanism of flax lignans in
psychological and social impact
the testosterone cycle can help
on individuals and may cause
to reduce sebum production
lowered self-esteem, anxiety,
and keep skin clear and less
depression and poorer overall
sensitive to developing acne.
quality of life. Because of the widespread nature of oily skin,
Topical Possibilities
skincare products to reduce
In addition to the antiandrogenic
oiliness and acne account
properties related to the oral
for a significant section of the
consumption of flax lignans,
cosmetic and cosmeceutical
topical applications have also
markets. Flax lignans have great
been shown to be effective
potential in these markets, thanks
on skin appearance. A clinical
to their ability to help reduce oily
study, sponsored by Frutarom
skin and contribute to a clearer
and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics,
complexion.
examined the sebum-reducing
An excess of sebum, an oily
24
effects of Linumine, a cosmetic
substance that’s produced
version of LinumLife.5 Twenty one
by the skin’s sebaceous
female volunteers applied a
glands, characterizes oily
cream enriched with flax lignans
skin. Again, DHT plays an
twice daily for 28 days. The
important role in this process;
study participants had mixed-
References
1. BMRB survey of 2011 British adults aged 16+ (23–25 April 2004). 2. YouGov survey of 2013 UK adults aged 18+ (1–3 April 2009). 3, L. Denis, et al., European Urology 35, 377–387 (1999). 4. L. Wang, Journal of Chromatography B 777, 29–43 (2002). 5. L inumine is marketed by Lucas Meyer (www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com).
For more information
Mira Koppert Product Manager, LifeLine Medical Sciences and Regulatory Affairs Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. Tel. +41 44 782 6572 mkoppert@ch.frutarom.com www.frutarom.com
winter 2010/2011
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
® 2010/2011 winter FLAVEX Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com
25
Ingredient Focus
Three Challenges, One Solution: Collagen Proteins
W
e’d all like to
problem. Taste is and will always
be healthy,
remain the primary criterion for
good-
a foodstuff; it is the principal
looking
requirement for consumer
and slim.
acceptance and commercial
These three basic attributes are
success. For this reason, suppliers
common to almost all countries,
of food ingredients in particular
cultures and population groups
have an obligation to provide
around the world. However, very
their customers with tailor-made
few are willing to accept lifestyle
solutions so that they, in turn, can
or eating habit restrictions to
develop such products. Suppliers
achieve these goals. The result
of complete solutions will,
is an incongruity: a discrepancy
therefore, always have an edge
between health and enjoyment.
compared with the competition.
In the past, consumers have
Being healthy generally
frequently established that
means being physically active
“good for them” products don’t,
and mobile as we age. As
in fact, taste all that good. The
such, there are a number of
challenge for the functional
interesting approaches that can
food industry is, therefore, to
be taken to develop successful
develop products that solve this
products for joint health and
26
winter 2010/2011
Ingredient Focus Collagen Proteins
Figure 1: Cartilage regeneration after 48 weeks. the prevention of osteoarthritis.
be incorporated into nutritional
contributes to smooth, wrinkle-
More than 25% of the global
supplements and functional food
free skin, strengthens nails
population suffers from joint
products, regardless of whether
and promotes attractive,
problems; this represents a
they are in liquid, solid or powder
healthy hair. Asian consumers,
considerable loss in terms of
form.
particularly women, have long
quality of life. The principal
The market for products
since recognized the value of
Gelita’s holistic range of native collagenderived ingredients offer technological, body stimulating and health-enhancing properties, depending on the requirements of the individual product. • Collagen peptides are optimized for different application fields and provide the benefits required of a measurable health ingredient. Special collagen peptides show convincing effects on joint health (FORTIGEL), bone health (FORTIBONE) and skin health/beauty (VERISOL). They have no allergic potential and are stable in liquid formulations. • Gelatins have a medium molecular weight and provide huge waterbinding capacities and unique texturizing properties. Gelatin is warm water-soluble and forms clear elastic and thermoreversible gels. It has excellent foaming capabilities and produces stable durable foams. Collagen itself has the highest molecular weight of the group. It can contain different soluble and nonsoluble collagen protein fractions with a variety of functions. Depending on the proportions of these fractions, it can be adapted to various needs such as texturizing and fat mimicking.
reason for these problems
that promote joint health is
collagen; it is normally sufficient
is wear and tear of the joint
significant: Frost & Sullivan has
just to point out that a particular
cartilage because of increasing
predicted an annual growth of
product contains collagen to
longevity, being overweight or
6.1% for joint health products
guarantee success. In Europe
the mechanical stress of intensive
in the USA alone until 2015,
and in the USA too, consumers
sport. Despite considerable
bringing the market volume
know about the benefits of
medical progress, there is still no
to $164.6 million. Apart from
collagen, mostly because of
cure for osteoarthritis and only
osteoarthritis, osteoporosis — loss
the claims made by cosmetic
stimulating skin metabolism and
a few therapeutic remedies to
of bone density and elasticity
companies. However, collagen
the formation of new collagen.
treat the disease. In most cases,
— is a worldwide problem. In
is still rather rare as an ingredient
In this way, VERISOL can slow
the symptoms are treated …
particular, osteoporosis affects
in foodstuffs and in health and
down the skin ageing process
and not the cause. However,
post-menopausal women. Here,
nutrition products. It’s quite clear,
and significantly improve the
FORTIGEL tackles this problem
FORTIBONE offers the health
though, that this well-established
overall condition of the skin. In
in a completely different way.
and nutrition industry a number
Asian trend is heading west!
a Tokyo 2008 study, 91% of the
FORTIGEL comprises optimized
of ways to exploit this market
VERISOL, another product from
participants showed improved
collagen peptides that have
segment. The collagen peptides
GELITA, also comprises collagen
skin moisture and elasticity after
been scientifically proven to
contained in FORTIBONE promote
peptides. It stimulates skin cells
taking collagen peptides for a
stimulate the regeneration of
the build up of collagen in bones,
and provides a variety of notable
period of 2 months.1 Similar results
cartilage tissue in the joints. After
render these elastic and, hence,
application possibilities for
were obtained in a study done
oral administration, FORTIGEL
dramatically reduce bone
product developers.
in the same year in Lyon: here,
stimulates the cartilage cells to
fractures — all of which has been
increase the production of both
scientifically proven (Figure 1).
collagen and proteoglycans
Whereas creams and other
41% of the participants had fewer
topical cosmetic products barely
wrinkles, more elastic skin and
penetrate to the deeper layers of
increased skin moisture after taking collagen peptides for 12
— the two major components
Beauty from Within
the skin, VERISOL — administered
that make up almost 90% of
In Asia, collagen-based
orally — directly influences
weeks.2 VERISOL is produced
cartilage dry mass. By treating
beauty products are already
skin from inside the body. The
from native collagen and has
the causes and not just the
well established in the market
bioactive collagen peptides
excellent bioavailability. As such,
symptoms of the condition,
and can be found in many
in the product substantially
it can easily be incorporated
FORTIGEL considerably improves
supermarkets. In addition,
increase skin moisture so that
into a range of products — from
joint mobility, reduces pain and
collagen has been exceptionally
it becomes soft and smooth. It
pharmaceutical-like applications
hence produces a higher quality
successful in beverages,
also improves the elasticity of
such as capsules, film-coated
of life. FORTIGEL offers a new
confectionery and other
the skin and its ability to bind
tablets, standard tablets
solution to this growing market.
products … and even as an
moisture, effectively preventing
and capsettes to nutritional
It is a foodstuff that can easily
additive for coffee. Collagen
the formation of wrinkles by
supplements and indulgence
Collagen contributes to smooth, wrinkle-free skin, strengthens nails and promotes attractive, healthy hair. 28
winter 2010/2011
products are to be successful,
texture. With its outstanding
they must offer a significant
water binding and foaming
calorific content advantage and,
capabilities, it increases the
at the same time, provide the
volume of food to decrease the
expected taste profile.
weight per serving. In practice,
Generally, weight
this means that the energy
management concepts can be
content per serving is much
reduced to a simple mechanism
lower. Additionally, the net
of balancing energy intake with
energy yield from protein is lower
energy output. Therefore, the
than that of carbohydrates. PHM
most important aspects facing food developers around the globe are replacing fat and reducing the calorie load per products such as chocolate. The
being. In addition, it does not fit
serving. VITARCAL is a holistic
appeal of the nutricosmetics
in with the ideals of beauty held
range of collagen proteins that
market is beyond dispute: based
by most cultures and population
address these issues without
on 2009 figures of $2.1 billion,
groups. For the consumer,
compromising their sensory
Frost & Sullivan has predicted
this means: if I can control my
profiles — the critical success
annual growth of 17.8 % to $5.62
body weight, I can live a much
factor for modern foodstuffs.
billion by 2015.
healthier life and be more
Because of its ability to create
attractive. Very few people,
2-phase water-in-water systems,
Guilt-Free Pleasure
however, when faced with the
VITARCAL can provide a
Being overweight has a dramatic
choice between lower-calorie,
creamy mouthfeel by mimicking
effect on health. It increases
healthier — but often less tasty —
fat. For example, in boiled
the mechanical stress on joints,
alternatives end up making the
sausages or muffins, it can
stresses the cardiovascular
“right decision.” It is thus obvious
replace some of the fat without
system and reduces general well-
that if weight management
a noticeable loss of taste or
References
1. Souken Study (Tokyo, Japan, 2008): a 2-month study with hydrolysed collagen. 2. Dermiscan Study (Lyon, France): cutaneous properties of hydrolysed collagen.
For more information
Oliver Wolf Corporate Communications GELITA AG Uferstraße 7, D-69412 Eberbach Germany. Tel. +49 6271 84 2194 oliver.wolf@gelita.com www.gelita.com
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SEE WEBSItE FOR FuLL LINE OF HERBAL CAPSuLES San Francisco Herb and Natural Food Co. ® 47444 Kato Road, Fremont, CA 94538 Tel: 800-227-2830 Fax: 510-770-9021
www.herbspicetea.com 2010/2011 winter
29
Trends and Innovations
Innovation The Land of Opportunity?
Innovation is a popular topic right now. People are talking about it … a lot. The term itself is pretty much used to describe any new cosmetic product launch that claims a somewhat innovative novelty. But what makes an innovation and what does innovation actually mean? Generally, it could be defined as being the successful market implementation of a first-time product, taking into account that this product has to be perceived as a novelty by the consumer to become a real innovation. A product that does not gain a certain level of awareness by the consumer — or a product that fails to raise consumer interest — can clearly not be considered to be an innovation, no matter how technically advanced the invention is.
W
hy do we
customer retention. Looking at
product launches in the eye
“Social networking” and “open
need this
the development trends in the
shadow segment has increased
innovation” are two of the
continuous
current markets, it’s not difficult
by 66% between 2007 and 2009.
most important catchwords in
flow of
to see how important innovation
innovation?
is to address the problem of
this context. Thanks to social
steadily shortening product
Idea Generation in the Web 2.0 era
networks, companies can forge
From a business point of view, as well as from a market point
lifecycles. As a consequence,
As part of the successful
tracking their habits, listen to
of view, there are very strong
companies face the challenge
innovation process, idea
their opinions and even openly
arguments that justify increased
of producing more and more
generation plays a critical role.
enquire about their wishes
efforts to find innovations in the
innovative products in very
In theory, there are two sources
and needs with respect to new
cosmetic sector. In the highly
short timeframes. The number
of idea generation: demand-
product development. One
competitive environment of the
of new colour cosmetic product
pull and technology-push. A
reason why this new interactive
colour cosmetic mass market,
launches demonstrates this
technology push implies that a
communication is so successful
for example, companies need
trend impressively (Figure1).
new invention is pushed through
is the changing consumer
to differentiate themselves
Almost every category in colour
R&D, production and sales
behaviour that the industry is
from each other to gain a
cosmetics, from eye to nail to
onto the market without proper
facing. Consumers these days
competitive advantage. Unique
lip colour, has dramatically
consideration of whether or not it
don’t simply buy products; they
selling propositions are crucial
increased the number of new
satisfies a user need. By contrast,
want to be heard, informed and
to increase consumer benefits
variants on offer each year. For
an innovation based upon
treated as individuals — even in
and, therefore, create stronger
example, the number of new
market pull has been developed
a mass market environment.
close links to their customers,
by the R&D function in response
Number of Variants
Lip Colour Cosmetics – Lip Colour Eye Colour Cosmetics – Eye Shadow Nail Colour Cosmetics Face Colour Cosmetics – Foundations Eye Colour Cosmetics – Eye Liner
3000
2000
2009
2008
2007
1000
0
Figure 1: Number of new product launches in Europe (2007–2009).
30
Obviously, the probability of a
Innovation Drivers in Colour Cosmetics
successful market introduction
To translate the expressed
is much higher for innovations
consumer needs into real
that integrate consumer needs
products, there are, technically
into the innovation process —
speaking, three key drivers
instead of technology induced
of innovation in the colour
novelties that might not initiate
cosmetic sector that have
enough market acceptance.
to be considered; these are
In the era of Web 2.0, industry
the outer packaging, the raw
is now facing a completely
materials used (and related
new way of integrating the
formulations) and texture
consumer into its processes
innovations, respectively. One
and to generate customer
of the latest trends in packaging
proximity as never known before.
technology, for example, is
to an identified market need.
4000
winter 2010/2011
the “packlication,” which
chamber packaging that allows
emphasizes the high innovation
a customized colour mix for the
make-up, the nude effect, is still
consumer’s skin, which once
potential of this part of product
lips or the face, or adjustable
on the rise. This trend is not just
again brings R&D closer to the
development. Packlication
mascaras that claim to provide
about developing formulations
new end-user.
is a term used to describe a
different low- to high-volume
with lower pigmentation levels
combination of packaging and
effects with just one product.
or micronized pigments to
Conclusion
avoid a masking effect, there’s
Innovation in cosmetics and, specifically, colour cosmetics
application that can now, for
Another mega-trend in
effect, depending on the
segments of the colour cosmetic
Innovation in Formulation
more to it than that. It involves examining the optical properties
is everywhere! Nevertheless,
market, from lip to face, eye
Some of the most striking
of functional particles such as
some of these innovations might
and nail colour. Clearly, product
innovations in terms of
soft-focus fillers or interference
not create the aspired market
applicators play a special role in
formulation and texture can
pigments into foundations to
impact; consumers can easily
this respect as they are getting
be found in colour cosmetics;
obtain illuminated and natural-
be overwhelmed by overly
integrated into packaging that,
numerous segments of this
looking skin, or to erase the signs
complicated handling or highly
previously, did not contain an
market have seen some
of ageing — such as wrinkles or
sophisticated marketing claims.
applicator, such as foundations
remarkable innovations in the
age spots — thanks to the rise
From consumer interviews, we
or eye shadows. Integrated
past few years, such as long-
of HD-technology. The desire for
know that products that can’t
applicators such as brushes,
lasting, transfer-resistant liquid
flawless skin will continue to grow
be understood and handled
roll-ons or sponges support the
lipsticks, lip stains and the
and represent one of the biggest
easily can lose their credibility
convenience aspects of the
revival of the cake eyeliner,
challenges for raw material
very quickly. Consumers
products and, at the same time,
just to mention a few. Around
and formulation development
demand reliable products
add new dimensions to the
the time of the millennium,
in facial colour cosmetics in the
with non-overstated claims.
normally non-exciting procedure
the field of foundations also
future. Regarding the growing
And, they want real efficacy,
of product application. More
underwent a significant renewal,
need for individual products,
which means that, sometimes,
advanced technologies using
with the development of what
there are also new technologies
an innovation might just be a
battery operated applicators
was, at the time, completely
in facial colour cosmetics
better answer to a consumer’s
are available but haven’t yet
novel mousse textures that
that can provide solutions to
need than a new breathtaking
managed to break into the
became achievable because
this demand. New iron oxide
technology. PHM
market, most probably because
of the introduction of silicone
encapsulation technologies
of their comparably high costs,
elastomer technology. Now, 10+
offer surprising colour effects,
very sophisticated handling
years later, this breakthrough
turning a white cream into a
and a lack of clear application
technology has become highly
skin-tone foundation upon
advantages. Technologies that
important for the facial colour
application. This not only offers
address the consumer desire
cosmetic market, resulting in a
an as yet unknown application
for individualism are becoming
wide variety of offerings from
experience, but also suggests an
more mainstream, such as two-
mass to prestige brands.
individual colour development
example, be seen in various
2010/2011 winter
For more information
Katrin Steinbach Cosmetic Scientist/Master of Business Marketing Product Innovation Manager Steinbach_Katrin@web.de
31
Toiletries and Personal Care Products
Natural and Organics Lead the Way in Beauty Essentials With ingredients sometimes causing an allergic reaction
or
exacerbating
skin
conditions,
consumers are becoming even more aware of the contents of their favourite shampoo and body wash. Dr Kevin Robinson spoke to Dr Shamini Singh,
a
qualified
homeopath/naturopath,
who is the Marketing and PR Manager for natural health retailer, Revital. Shamini gave the lowdown on the alternatives available to consumers seeking a more natural approach to their bathroom cabinet essentials.
R 32
evital is a leading
Natural and Organic
independent
“We see it as our priority to
chain of health
offer our customers a selection
stores whose
of products that are free from
core focus is the
parabens, aluminium and any
health and well-being of their
other chemicals,” comments
customers, which is at the
Shamini. “We have many ranges
centre of everything they do.
that can be used by the entire
The business has been supplying
family, all of which are completely
consumers with high quality
safe to use every single day.” A
and innovative natural health
key brand, exclusive to Revital,
products, health foods and
is Nature’s Gate, which was
supplements for nearly 20 years.
founded more than 30 years ago
Shamini says: “Every product
by two men who simply saw what
must pass strict criteria before it
nature had to offer. Nature’s Gate
is allowed in store. We sell all the
products use all-natural herbs
main brands of herbal remedies
and pH-balanced formulas. The
and nutritional supplements,
products are carefully formulated
with a focus on providing our
to preserve the Earth’s natural
customers with a range of
resources while still offering
natural and organic solutions to
fantastic results. There are a
suit every price range.”
number of varieties, including
winter 2010/2011
an organic range of beauty
consumers are not changing to
and beauty consultants, who
essentials containing lavender
a natural or organic alternative,”
are on hand to answer customer
and aloe vera, which is suitable
states Shamini. “But, in the last 5
queries. “The Internet is a really
for both men and women.
years, we have seen the launch
useful tool but the information
“Nature’s Gate contains an array
of more and more product lines
available is not always accurate.
of certified organic botanicals
that fit every person’s spending
We want to make certain that
that soothe and soften the skin,”
abilities. Furthermore, the
our customers have access to
remarks Shamini. “Manufactured
organics industry is no longer
the most reliable and up-to-
without animal testing and with
restricted to food; we are seeing
date information available,
no animal by-products, the
a trend whereby more and
which is why we invest
packaging is also completely
more customers are looking for
heavily in the knowledge and
biodegradable — supporting a
natural alternatives in a variety
development of our staff using
clean environment.”
of lifestyle areas. People are
professional in-house training,”
becoming increasingly conscious
comments Shamini.
“The Trilogy natural actives range for men combines natural
of what they are using at home,
extracts from herbs and plants
from make-up to skincare. As
approach with our customers.
with advanced skincare science,”
a specialist retailer, we are
We ask them questions and use
adds Shamini. “The lightweight
delighted to be able to help
our knowledge of the category
formulas contain pure plant
our customers to select natural
to make a recommendation
oils and skin energizing Multi-
solutions that meet all their
that is specific to their needs.
Mineral Complex M3, combining
health and beauty needs, from
We encourage people to trial
zinc, copper and magnesium
body washes to moisturizers,”
products to see what’s right for
to restore skin vitality. Products
adds Shamini.
them. Our customers can also go
“We have a very gentle
to our website and put a question
include a four-step plan to cleanse, shave, soothe and
Help and Advice
to our team of experts,” adds
moisturize.” Natural and organic
Revital believes that good
Shamini. As a business, Revital
product ranges are also very
customer service is an essential
has set up demonstration and
effective at treating specific
part of driving this area of the
pamper days for customers and
health conditions and skin types.
market. “We receive hundreds
provides extensive consumer
Because they contain nothing
of customer enquiries every day
literature that customers can
detrimental, many are considered
from people looking for help and
take away. So, for Revital, natural
to be hyperallergenic and
advice. In many cases, customers
and organics is definitely the way
suitable for treating dermatitis or
simply want to understand the
forward! Shamini concludes:
eczema, or specific formulas for
benefits that natural and organic
“We should all be looking to
thin hair or a dry scalp.
products offer.” Customers who
make changes, one step at a
visit a store can consult Revital’s
time, to all our bathroom cabinet
Organic Doesn’t Mean Pricy!
team of experts, which includes
essentials. This is a sector that no
homeopaths, nutritionists,
longer restricts its customer base
“Expense is often cited as
naturopaths, herbalists, sports
because of price; it has something
the main reason why many
nutritionists, personal trainers
to offer everybody.” PHM
The organics industry is no longer restricted to food; we are seeing a trend whereby more and more customers are looking for natural alternatives in a variety of lifestyle areas. 2010/2011 winter
Dr Shamini Singh
For more information Dr Shamini Singh Homeopath/Naturopath Revital Tel. +44 800 252 875 www.revital.co.uk
33
Oral Health
Chew Your Way to Healthy Teeth
A
s the world
continues to shine a spotlight on
• More or less all people experience some of the symptoms of gingivitis during their lifetime.
beauty, and link it
Furthermore, dental care is a very
to well-being and
costly part of the budget for the
a symbol of social status, a good
average consumer. So much that
looking set of teeth is an integral
a third of the population does
part of this trend. Being a very
not receive the necessary dental
visible and noticeable component
care and is going through life
of one’s body, and something
with dental hygiene problems
that has a very big impact on
that can lead to more severe
many personal feelings — such
problems later on, such as heart
as self confidence — healthy
disease and strokes. One of the
teeth have become a vital part
growing reasons why such dental
of one’s overall self-satisfaction.
problems occur is our diet. As the
However, as consumers continue
world continuously consumes
compressed gum. Made from
to buy products that don’t exactly
more and more sugarized food
a powder base and processed
promote good oral hygiene, it is
and acidic beverages, dental
under cold and dry conditions,
becoming more important to take
ailments and diseases will continue
this new chewing gum is very
preventive steps to avoid major
to spur. Thus, a stronger focus
suitable as a delivery system for
dental problems. Chewing gum
should be placed on prevention
active ingredients. Gumlink has
by itself has long been known as
and the maintenance of good
so far been able to incorporate
a good way to maintain good
oral hygiene. One possible aid is
the following active ingredients
oral hygiene. And now, a Danish
chewing gum.
that promote good oral hygiene: fluoride, zinc, pycnogenol,
chewing gum maker is able to
Chewing Gum: Good for Oral Health
potassium chloride, calcium
active ingredients with oral care benefits into its chewing gum,
Sugar-free chewing gum as a way
including effective doses of these
allowing for an even better way to
to promote good oral hygiene is
active ingredients, Gumlink has
keep one’s teeth looking great.
very well known, and is also very
been able to develop chewing
well documented. Its inherent
gum concepts covering such
Oral Care Problems
benefits include the following:
application areas as
Within the oral care category
• stimulation of saliva flow in the
• fresh breath
incorporate significant amounts of
there are several problem areas,
mouth
pyrophosphate and xylitol. By
• cavity protection
such as tooth decay, sensitive
• cleans mouth of food debris
• sensitive teeth
teeth, halitosis (bad breath), dental
• alleviates the feeling of dry mouth
• oral bacteria reduction
erosion and gingivitis. Here are
• neutralizes plaque acids and
• whitening
some facts that indicate how big
reduces plaque
• overall protection.
the oral care area actually is:
• strengthens teeth
Thus, when chewing one of these
• Approximately 50% of the
• reduces risk of dental caries
concepts, the inherent benefits of
population suffers from sensitive
• prevents stains.
chewing gum are combined with
teeth
Although these benefits are great
the unique benefits of the active
by themselves, Danish chewing
compound to create products
is estimated to be worth £821
gum manufacturer, Gumlink A/S,
that are able to maintain good
million, and is growing at 5% per
has now upgraded these benefits
oral hygiene and prevent serious
year
by including effective doses of
dental diseases. Much better
several active ingredients.
than traditional chewing gum!
• The total UK oral health market
• Americans spend approximately $10 billion on oral hygiene
So, can a chewing gum replace a good old brushing of the
one of the most common health
Chewing Gum with Extra Oral Care Benefits
complaints in the world
Gumlink A/S has recently
between brushes, ensuring
developed a totally new type of
healthy teeth all day long, and
chewing gum called Dual-layered
it’s fun to chew. PHM
products • Tooth decay (dental caries) is
• Around 40% of the world’s population suffers from halitosis
34
teeth or flossing? No! But, it is a great supporting measure
Bibliography
1. w ww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pubmed/18050578?dopt=Abstract 2. w ww.articlesbase.com/health-articles/ cavities-and-the-problem-of-badbreath-2395079.html 3. w ww.colgate.com/app/Colgate/US/OC/ Information/Popular-Topics/SensitiveTeeth/What-Is-Tooth-Sensitivity.cvsp 4. w ww.wrigley.com/global/documents/ oral_health_fact_sheet.pdf 5. w ww.everydayhealth.com/ dental-health/oral-conditions/ gum-disease.aspx?xid=nl_ EverydayHealthHeartHealth_20100227 6. w ww.chemistanddruggist. co.uk/c/portal/layout?p_l_ id=259751&CMPI_SHARED_ articleId=4405736&CMPI_SHARED_ ImageArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_ CommentArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_ ToolsArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_articleIdRelated=4405736 7. w ww.medicinenet.com/script/main/ art.asp?articlekey=50509 8. w ww.bbc.co.uk/health/physical_ health/conditions/toothdecay2.shtml 9. w ww.healthtree.com/articles/halitosis/ bad-breath-treatment/
For more information
Thomas Jahn Business Development, Nutraceuticals Gumlink A/S Dandyvej 19, DK-7100 Vejle, Denmark. Tel. +45 7215 1647 tahn@gumlink.com www.gumlink.com
winter 2010/2011
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31
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PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose has been carefully developed to protect skin stem cells against environmental stress factors and to improve their functions. As a consequence, it ensures improved skin condition.
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The first cosmetic ingredients to be formally approved by the Soil Association for use in organic formulations are Lonza’s cosmetic ingredients.
Lonza is amongst the first raw material suppliers to offer raw materials that are NaTrue approved.
www.lonza.com winter 2010/2011