PHM Winter 2010

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

WINTER EDITION 2010/11

TM

Advanced Age-Reversal Skin Treatment

Antiageing

Lifespan versus health span Is living to 100 worth it?

Parabens

More harmful than nuclear waste?

Toiletries and Personal Care Products Naturals and organics lead the way Keeping it green

Innovation: The Land of Opportunity

For direct access to Croda’s expertise visit http://pceurope.crodadirect.com

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Europe, Middle East & Africa email:pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:marketing-usa@croda.com www.crodausa.com Latin America email:marketingla@croda.com www.crodala.com Asia Pacific email:pc-asia@croda.com www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build onTM

2

winter 2010/2011

contents WINTER EDITION 2010/2011

CONTENTS. In

. . e u s s i s thi

From the Editor

05 More Than Skin Deep Dr Kevin Robinson

Opinion

10 Parabens: More Harmful Than Nuclear Waste?

Dene Godfrey

Antiageing

12 Lifespan Versus Health Span James Betz

16 Living to One Hundred is Easy! But is it Worth it?

Roger Coghill

18 Skin Ageing: From

12 20

Functional Impairment to Cosmetic Solutions

Luigi Rigano

Green Ingredients

26

20 Sustainability within the C&T Markets

Imogen Matthews

Ingredient Focus 22

Natural Beauties

Mira Koppert

26 Three Challenges, One Solution: Collagen Proteins

Oliver Wolf

Trends and Innovation

30 Innovation: The Land of Opportunity?

Katrin Steinbach

Toiletries and Personal Care Products

32 Natural and Organics Lead the Way in Beauty Essentials

Shamini Singh

Oral Health

34 Chew Your Way to Healthy Teeth Thomas Jahn

10

32 2010/2011 winter

3

Staff

Registered Office:

Editorial

Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591

Sales

General Manager/Publisher Miranda Docherty miranda@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 122 Sales Executive Gill Healy gill@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 128 Sales Executive Heba Hassanatou heba@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 127

Art

Art Director/Production Paul Andrews paul@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 126

Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day claire@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129

Via Media UK Ltd 22 Highacre Dorking RH4 3BF, UK.

Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions Circulation Circulation Manager of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do info@via-medialtd.com notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention.

Pure Health Magazine is free to Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing qualified readers. in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any Reprints of articles are available (Please enquire for details). responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content.

Via Media UK Limited Copyright Š 2010, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication Managing Director Simon Jones may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or simon.jones@via-medialtd.com mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131 system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Editorial Director Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Kevin Robinson kevin@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121.

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Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123

Frutarom loves Beauty and helps nourish your skin from the inside A marker of youth and health, the skin needs daily nourishment and protection to remain clear and smooth. Frutarom presents a scientifically-backed selection of safe and natural dietary ingredients for beauty formulations. For more information on our Beauty campaign, please contact Frutarom.

GreenTea 942

and ingredients from

info@frutaromhealth.com | www.frutarom.com

4

winter 2010/2011

From The Editor

More Than Skin Deep It’s antiageing Jim, but not as we know it!

W

elcome to

business and technology

its achievement.” The unique

the Winter

across the pharmaceutical

formulation contains the

2010/2011

outsourcing, biopharmaceutical

so-called miracle molecule,

issue of

and clinical trial industries. And,

resveratrol, four superfruit

Pure Health

although Biotivia’s submission

antioxidants, advanced

Magazine, sponsored by the

was technically a cosmeceutical

hexapeptides, Japanese

world-leading manufacturer

project, Celle was recognized as

pearl extract and Edelweiss

initiate mitosis do not reach their

of resveratrol-based health

a true innovation and cited as

plant progenitor cells. In Celle,

destination cells. No new cells, no

supplements, Biotivia. We’re

an “ethical, high performance

Biotivia has created a skin repair

old age. And that made me think,

delighted to be able to include

skin treatment” whose effects

and rejuvenating cream that

when we talk about antiageing,

an editorial contribution

compare with those of laser and

contains no harmful chemicals,

what do we really mean? Does

from CEO and founder of the

chemical peels, dermabrasion,

such as PEGs, carbomers or

this industry and its products aim

company, James Betz, who offers

Botox and other much more costly

parabens (still contained in

to target the entire organism,

a futurologist’s view of antiageing.

and uncomfortable procedures.

other creams costing more

the whole body or just the skin

Ageing and the widely

Celle is the result of 4 years of

than $1000), while maintaining

and face? Is there any point in

recognized diseases of ageing

development and thousands of

the texture, silkiness and rich

being pretty at 80 if you can’t get

are not inevitable consequences

hours of testing and refinement

soft feel that these chemicals

out of your wheelchair? Are we

of living longer, writes James, and

by leading American, Italian and

were thought to be essential for

simply selling a facial prosthetic to

suggests that developments in

Swiss scientists to combine all-

(www.celleskincare.com).

disguise a failing body? Or, taking

advanced prosthetics, stem cell

natural active ingredients, backed

therapy, organ replacement and

Maintaining the antiageing

a positive stance, does looking

by solid scientific evidence, in

theme, Roger Coghill, Director

good mean feeling good and,

the prevention and treatment

a uniquely effective new skin

of Asphalia Food Products Ltd,

by default, staying healthier for

of cancer, heart disease and

treatment to combat skin ageing

also offers some pearls of wisdom

longer? Perhaps I’m just arguing

neurological conditions such as

— both internally and externally

for the wannabe centenarian ...

semantics and nomenclature;

Alzheimer’s and dementia will

— and actually reverse much of

but also serves up some food for

personally, I’d swap a healthy

mean that those persons who are

the damage caused by years or

thought (page 16). Taking a more

heart for a few wrinkles and

presently under 60 years of age

decades of exposure to the sun,

holistic approach to the concept

grey hairs and, in closing, would

and in excellent health will have

our challenging environment and

of living longer, he advises against

suggest that cosmetic “age

a reasonably good chance of

a less than perfect diet.

the over-consumption of alcohol

defying” products only make

and advocates taking moderate

sense when combined with a

living indefinitely. A paradigm shift

James was in Paris to

in longevity therapy? A dystopian

receive the award at this

exercise and consuming plenty

lifestyle that includes balanced

view of immortality? See page 12

year’s gala dinner event and

of vitamins and minerals. In

nutrition, physical fitness and

for the full article and to find out

commented: “This is a serious

addition, he suggests that those

preventive healthcare. Otherwise,

how our lifespans — as well as our

achievement and I am gratified

of us wishing to reach a ripe old

it’s just not worth it. PHM

health spans — can be extended.

that Celle has been given this

age would do well to minimize

recognition. It was enough

our exposure to electromagnetic

it was recently announced that

Talking of age-defying solutions,

just to be nominated for such

fields (EMFs). Perhaps more

Biotivia’s Celle Rejuvenating

a sought after award, but to

easily said than done in this

Skincare Cream had won

go on and win the category is

technological age of mobile

the Outstanding Application

quite humbling. This award is

communication and the wireless

in Nutraceuticals award at

testament to all the hard work

Internet; but, as Roger says, the

the European Outsourcing

and unique innovation that has

link between cancer and heart

Awards (EOA). Held annually,

gone into making Celle one

disease and exposure to EMFs has

the EOA recognizes significant

of the most sought after skin

been a recurring research result

developments in contract services

treatments ever. We were up

of those working independently

and rewards successful companies

against some of the industry’s

in this controversial field. No

for their outstanding contributions

biggest players and our win

matter how much vitamin E and/

and achievements throughout the

proves that small innovative

or whatever quantity of natural/

year. The awards were created

companies can develop a

organic wrinkle removers we

to celebrate and recognize

product that really works and

apply are going to do much

excellence in R&D, marketing,

gain industry recognition for

good if the brain’s signals to

2010/2011 winter

For more information

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine (PHM) and can be reached at kevin@via-medialtd.com. Visit www.europeanoutsourcingawards. com to learn more about the EOA.

5

News and Products Sooth and Restructure

Our diet is biased toward inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids

Omegablue is the result of Indena’s four decades of bilberry fruit experience.

Extracted from the seeds of this unique berry (Vaccinum myrtillus), Omegablue has been developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive skin and as a skin and hair restructurant. Omegablue provides a soothing effect and improves skin hydration and integrity. Because it contains sebum-like essential fatty acids that form a protective barrier against external agents, it protects against acute and chronic skin damage. Omegablue has been clinically tested on healthy volunteers to assess its barrier repairing properties after irritative damage induced by the detergent SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) in occlusion for 24 hours. After 3 days of twice daily application of an emulsion containing Omegablue (2%), the lipidic barrier completely recovered from the damage caused by SLS. Recent publications identify bilberry is an optimal source of α-linolenic acid (ALA) and linoleic acid (LA); compared with other sources of unsaturated fatty acids, bilberry seed oil has an optimal omega-6:omega-3 ratio. Genetically speaking, humans live in a nutritional environment that differs from that which our genetic constitution was selected for; in fact, our diet is currently biased toward inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids rather than anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids. Omegablue enables our bodies to reconstitute its skin barrier and prevents omega-6 and omega-3 from competing for its enzymatic substrates (www.indena.com).

rather than antiinflammatory omega-3 fatty acids.

Clariant Focuses on Further Growth in China

Swiss specialty chemicals company, Clariant, continues to strengthen its presence in Asia with the official opening of its new Greater China headquarters in Shanghai. The facility also includes a new technical application centre for pigments. Clariant further announced the launch of its new quinacridon pigment joint venture in Hangzhou. Additionally, in September 2009, Clariant launched its new multipurpose plant (MPP) in Zhenjiang. A new ethoxylation facility in Dayabay, an industrial hub in Southern China, is currently under construction. Its opening is scheduled for mid-2011.

By this date, Clariant will have invested approximately 150 million Swiss francs (CHF) during the last two and a half years. In 2010, Greater China will gain a share of around 8% of the worldwide Clariant business. Today, Clariant employs up to 1300 people in Greater China and is represented in 13 cities with a total of 21 locations. “Setting up the new Greater China headquarters and the new production site in Hangzhou reflects Clariant’s confidence in the stability and growth of the Chinese economy. And, with a sales increase of about 30% in 2010, China is one of the fastest growing markets for Clariant,” commented Dr Hariolf Kottmann, Clariant’s Chief Executive Officer (www.clariant.com).

6

TIGI Packs a Punch with DHL

DHL Supply Chain’s Consumer Sector (www.dhl.co.uk) has helped leading fashion hair care company, TIGI, to collate and pack three new gift box designs for its Christmas 2010 campaign. More than 500,000 gift packs, containing professional hair products such as Bed Head and Catwalk, were assembled by DHL co-packing professionals at the global logistics firm’s dedicated 350,000 sq ft Whitwood facility. The project involved managing customer stock across multiple SKUs, assembling multiple packaging components — including acetate fronts, display inserts and outer boxes — checking label alignments, applying tamper seals and the use of stringent internal audit systems to enable full product traceability. TIGI’s gift packs were picked and palletized to order and are available in salons nationwide, across Europe and in Australia and New Zealand. Lynn Grady, General Manager of DHL’s Consumer Sector’s Co-Pack operations, said: “This was a complex and delicate operation but we are delighted with the outcome. The team did a fantastic job to meet a very tight schedule.

Quality control and manual dexterity were paramount to this job’s success; every fitment had to be inserted and folded in a specific way to avoid marking the acetates and boxes. We are very proud to have assembled some really standout packaging for TIGI and they will look great on shelf.” Ken Setchell at TIGI said: “We have been very impressed with the seamless fashion in which DHL has turned this around for us. With three different box designs and a combined total of 17 gift packs, it was somewhat of an undertaking. We are confident that our customers will be delighted with the end result, both in terms of the promotion and product combinations and its excellent presentation. DHL is certainly a safe pair of co-packing hands.”

winter 2010/2011

SABIC Presents Growing Product Portfolio

SABIC recently presented two new product groups from its Performance Chemicals Strategic Business Unit — ethanolamines and ethoxylates — at the 57th SEPAWA Congress and European Detergents Conference. SABIC’s Performance Chemicals Business operates three Business Units: Base Products, Functional Polymers and Functional Chemicals. Ethanolamines and ethoxylates, produced at SABIC’s Saudi Kayan plant in Jubail, Saudi Arabia, are part of the Functional Chemicals product range and are used in household detergents and personal care products. “SABIC’s Performance Chemicals Business aims to diversify the SABIC product portfolio and accelerate the exploration of new chemical and polymer value chains to meet our customers’ needs,” said Rusmir Niksic, SABIC General Manager, Functional Chemicals. “The European market is one of the key areas for SABIC’s growth strategy in performance chemicals; the company aims to expand its networks in sales, marketing and distribution. SABIC intends to combine its knowledge of customer desired applications and processes, product quality, technology platforms, customer service excellence and security of feedstock supply to create value, facilitate growth and spur innovation for its European customers.” Turki Al-Hamdan, SABIC Global Business Manager, Ethoxylates and Amines, added: “At SEPAWA, we introduced our initial product portfolio, including a range of fatty alcohol ethoxylates and polyethyleneglycols. In the next few years, we also plan to launch additional chemistries that include polysorbates, castor oil ethoxylates and other products required by our global customers. SABIC’s established position in ethylene oxide and the recently announced natural fatty alcohol project will be leveraged to create value for the ersonal Care Anz_A5 quer Pf 25.11.2009 15:30 Uhr Seite 1 company’s customers (www.sabic.com).

C

2010/2011 winter

Turn Up the Volume, Turn On the Light

At the recent SCS Formulate 2010 event, Croda presented a novel solution to flat, limp hair — Voluminis — that delivers exceptional volume from rinse-off conditioners. Hair volume is closely associated with hair health in the consumer mind; so, many people are seeking fullness and bounce as signs of vitality. Voluminis offers the opportunity for touchably soft volumized hair with convenience. Salon studies have confirmed consumer perceivable volumizing performance and, in an independent study, Voluminis gave a statistically significant increase in the appearance of hair volume at a 99% confidence level. Also on show was Solaveil SpeXtra, a simpler solution to broad-spectrum sun protection. Combining an exceptional level of UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, these innovative titanium dioxide dispersions uniquely allow the formulation of high SPF, broad-spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient. Solaveil SpeXtra dispersions contain a novel titanium dioxide, specifically designed to deliver an optimal balance of UVA and UVB attenuation. Formulations containing Solaveil SpeXtra as the sole UV filter meet European Commission guidelines for UVA protection, whilst achieving the high SPF efficacy typically expected from conventional sunscreen grades of TiO2. And, if you’re working in the dark, Croda’s Emulsifier Selector will open your eyes to a world of practical and creative emulsification solutions. Their online Emulsifier Selector tool navigates you through the complexities of emulsification selection. It’s an easy to use, interactive tool that provides a wide range of emulsification options to satisfy even the most adventurous formulator.

It offers a time efficient route to innovative formulating, and has been tried and tested to deliver solutions to many of the most challenging formulation systems (http://pceurope.crodadirect.com).

M

Y

CM

MY

CY CMY

K

7

News and Products Echium for Skin Health

in-cosmetics Returns to Milan for 2011

With the Italian cosmetics and toiletries market worth €9.1 billion, hot on the heels of France (€12.8 billion) and Germany (€10.5 billion), it’s no surprise that in-cosmetics, the leading global business platform for personal care ingredients, is heading to Milan’s Fiera Milano Rho exhibition centre on 29–31 March 2011. With just a few months to go, the 2011 show is already almost as big as the 2010 20th anniversary show in Paris. More than 500 exhibitors of raw materials and ingredients, research laboratories, software providers, industry associations and leading publications are expected to attend, including major players such as Croda, DSM, Dow Chemical and Rhodia, as well as a number of newcomers from China, India, Italy and South Korea.

Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director, commented: “With so many key industry participants attending the show, in-cosmetics has become a must-attend event in the personal care industry calendar, offering a crucial insight into scientific advances, emerging markets and an unrivalled educational programme. It also has an unprecedented reputation for innovation and is an excellent source of industry expertise. The event is on target to deliver yet another successful show.”

The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier, Beraca, attracts more than two thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging.

Showcasing a range of innovative ecodesigned product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry. Other highlights at in-cosmetics include the hugely popular Innovation Zone, presenting some of the latest ingredients launched by exhibitors and the most innovative beauty products selected by Mintel Beauty Innovation, workshops and scientific seminars, marketing trend presentations, regulatory seminars and innovation seminars (www.in-cosmetics.com).

Our skin is our largest organ, and it functions to protect the body against environmental stressors. The epidermis comprises layers of corneocytes and lipid membranes. These lipids play a vital role in controlling inflammation-based skin conditions. Lacking important desaturase enzymes, the skin is unable to restructuring the lipids we obtain from our diet. The lipids in our skin are a reflection of our diets. Common western diets are often high in omega-6s — linoleic acid (LA) and arachidonic acid (ARA) — the latter of which is associated with increased inflammation. Echium plantagineum is a novel food-approved source of the omega-3s stearidonic acid (SDA, 14%) and alpha linolenic acid (ALA, 30%), as well as the omega-6, gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 12%). SDA is a precursor of the fish fatty acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which is well known for its anti-inflammatory action. Multiple studies have shown that SDA is effectively converted to EPA by the liver, at around 25–30%. Also, GLA, recognized for its anti-inflammatory action, is valued for its role in improving skin health, as shown by its application in many creams and skincare supplements. The effectiveness of Echium comes from its unique fatty acid profile, which the liver can use to create more elongated fatty acids.

This is especially true for SDA, which the liver converts to EPA. The combination of EPA and GLA leads to two advantages: it creates an enormous set of anti-inflammatory eicosanoids; and decreases the production of ARA. These two effects prevent an exaggerated inflammatory reaction, which causes skin redness and damage. Echium oil’s fatty acid profile presents the body with the building blocks to maintain healthy, clear skin, as demonstrated in both topical application and oral supplementation studies (www.bioriginal.com).

With

so

many

key

industry

participants attending the show, in-cosmetics has become a mustattend event in the personal care industry calendar.

Natural Q10 Alternative

Mibelle Biochemistry has launched a new Ecocert-certified energizing and time fighting active — Sunflower Shoot Active — that reactivates ATP production, delays the senescence of skin cells and regulates gene expression to protect the cellular matrix. With age, our cells produce less energy and fewer antioxidants. Moreover, the level of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, increases. This leads to a loss of skin elasticity and firmness and the appearance of wrinkles. Sunflower Shoot Active is a purified extract of organic sunflower shoots.

Shoots have naturally occurring levels of nutrients (vitamins, antioxidants and phytonutrients) that are higher than the corresponding mature plant. Gene array analysis, as well as in vitro studies performed on fibroblasts and on reconstructed epidermis cells, have shown the capacity of Sunflower Shoot Active to reverse the ageing process by stimulating the cellular production of energy and antioxidants, stimulating the build-up of ECM proteins and inhibiting their degradation by MMP and reinforcing the skin barrier. For more information, visit www.mibellebiochemistry.com.

8

winter 2010/2011

Sustainable Personal Care Production in Belarus

GEA Liquid Processing (www.gea-liquid.dk) is taking part in a new €3 million turnkey project for Lebortovo Capital Partners Ltd in the Mogilev region of Belarus.

The fully automatic, multipurpose production line from GEA will produce skincare and liquid household cleaning products for the local market, significantly reducing the region’s dependence on imported products. The new production facility, Svoboda, will operate according to international hygiene and production standards.

The products themselves will fall into the category of green and natural products containing the minimum of additives and will be produced to meet the highest standard for sustainability while maintaining superior product quality. In line with the trend in the industry, the objective is also to reduce manufacturing costs, waste, energy consumption and the emission of carbon dioxide. GEA Liquid Processing, part of GEA Process Engineering, is the main contractor for the project responsible for designing the production line, supplying the key equipment and handling the installation and commissioning. The company will use its expertise and knowledge of best practice and benchmarking for process technology in the personal care industry to ensure that the new plant meets the highest international standards for hygiene, product quality and production. Equipment supplied directly by GEA includes raw material reception, raw material storage, dosage systems, BATCH FORMULA Mixing Systems, final product storage and Clean-in-Place (CIP) installation. The plant will be fully automated with a recipe-controlled process.

Sergey Krivenko, Chief Technologist at Svoboda said that his company chose GEA Liquid Processing because of the high level of hygiene laid down in the design.

According to Thorsten Vammen, Director of Sales at GEA Liquid Processing, this hygienic design was achieved by approaching the project from a pharmaceutical or food industry perspective. “Traditionally, personal care production sites were designed on the basis of best practice from the chemical industry; that is, nonclean,” he explained. “However, we adopted a super-clean policy similar to that used in the food and pharmaceutical industries. This level of hygiene control means we have avoided the use of unwanted additives.”

Azelis Acquires YDS

Azelis (www.azelis.com), the leading pan-European distributor of specialty chemicals, has announced the acquisition of YDS Chemicals, a Belgian-based distributor of specialty ingredients. YDS Chemicals specializes in the distribution of personal and home care ingredients, pharmaceutical excipients, and specialty food and performance chemicals in the Benelux market. The YDS entrepreneurial business, founded by Yves De Somere in 1992, offers a large variety of specialty products such as adjuvants for crop protection, surfactants, oleochemicals, textile auxiliaries and food ingredients. With this regional acquisition, Azelis continues to reinforce its activities in the Benelux within the personal care, chemical industries and food and health business lines. “We are very happy to welcome YDS to the Azelis Group,” said Joris Coppye, Chief Executive Officer of Azelis. “Their business complements our industry focused product range.

The combined organizations will ensure a leading position in the Benelux market and give greater synergies, creating new business and operational opportunities for our customers in the three main business areas. YDS is also a perfect fit as their strong entrepreneurial spirit and business focus is in line with the DNA of Azelis.” Yves De Somere, General Manager of YDS, added: “Combining YDS’ and Azelis’ activities is a logical step for the future growth of YDS. Our business is not just about products. Our core business is to provide effective solutions for customer issues and this is where the combined strength of Azelis and YDS brings real added value. Our young and highly qualified team of 30 people is looking forward to working together with the knowledgeable and focused sales team of Azelis.”

Dr. Fischer Launches Lyc-o-Mato-Based Cosmetics

LycoRed, Ltd (www.lycored.com) has announced that Lyc-O-Mato lycopene complex is the key ingredient in Dr. Fischer’s carotenoid complex-based Genesis Age-Control Anti-Wrinkle Lycopene range. Dr. Fischer, a brand of Fischer Pharmaceuticals, is a world leader in the development and manufacture of advanced healthcare preparations in the fields of dermatology, ophthalmology and nutraceuticals, and an expert in sun protection and antiageing. The new Dr. Fischer Genesis range of skincare and skin-protection dermacosmetic products follows multiple studies, conducted by LycoRed, demonstrating that Lyc-O-Mato — a natural red ripe tomato extract — has the ability to protect skin from premature ageing, wrinkling and other damaging effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. “In placebocontrolled human studies, orally taken lycopene showed beneficial effects on skin density, thickness and smoothness, as well as reduced photodamage,” says David Djerassi, Wellness and Nutricosmetics expert for LycoRed, Ltd. “It’s well established that nine out of ten cases of premature skin ageing is caused by exposure to sun radiation.

What’s not as well known is that 70% of sun-induced skin damage is caused during regular daily activities and not necessarily at the beach or pool,” states Tali Dabas, Marketing Manager at Dr. Fischer. “The 100% Natural Lycopene Genesis line employs the powerful antioxidant activity of a carotenoid complex that also includes beta-carotene, phytofluene and phytoene,” she adds. According to Dabas, these carotenoids, together with very high, broad spectrum UVB (SPF 30) and UVA (PA +++) protection, act to protect the epidermal and dermal layers from the cellular and DNA damage caused by sunlight, climate, stress, pollution and even the foods we ingest. “By using our ultra-pure Lyc-OMato tomato-derived carotenoid complex, together with UV-filtering compounds, Dr. Fischer’s Genesis Age-Control line of dermacosmetics is able to offer consumers protection from the accelerated wrinkling and premature ageing that comes from daily UV exposure” notes Udi Alroy, VP Global Marketing and Sales at LycoRed. “This antiwrinkle range comes in an oil-free complex that allows for the effective formulation of lightly textured products for normal/ combination to dry skin.”

2010/2011 winter

In placebocontrolled human studies, orally taken lycopene showed beneficial effects on skin density, thickness and smoothness.

9

Opinion

More Harmful Than

Nuclear Waste?

N

o other cosmetic

of various parabens by using

risk to human health. But, when

study would require 109 years

ingredients have

both in vitro and in vivo methods.

it is considered that the dose

of continuous daily exposure to

come in for such

As it is generally accepted that

employed to achieve this effect

0.05 mg/kg bodyweight/day (a

an aggressive

evidence produced by the

was in the area of being 4000

typical daily exposure for users of

campaign

latter method outweighs that

times greater than any normal

cosmetic products)!

against their use for as long as I

of the former, I will focus entirely

daily exposure, it seems even

can remember, and I fail to see

on the in vivo results. Using a rat

less likely. Moreover, the route of

the daily ingestion of the many

why. Amazingly, the majority

uterotrophic assay, Routledge

administration was subcutaneous

phytoestrogens that are present

of the concerns expressed

observed no estrogenic activity

injection. This route avoids

in our food are of no concern,

are, ultimately, the result of the

for methylparaben, no estrogenic

contact with esterases within

perhaps people will understand

publication of only two studies.1,2

activity for ethylparaben and

the dermis and epidermis that

why there is no cause for concern

The results of the Routledge study

recorded a butylparaben effect

would, in “normal” cosmetic

regarding the use of butylparaben

prompted the initiation of the

that was 100,000 times weaker

usage, contribute towards the

in cosmetics, particularly when

second study, but it is interesting to

than oestradiol (propylparaben

biodegradation of the parabens.

it is considered that many of

look very closely at the results (and

was not tested in the in vivo

In other words, this route

these phytoestrogens have

the methodology) in both studies.

section of the study).

exacerbates any adverse effects!

activity levels that are 2000 times

Using several assumptions — most

weaker than oestradiol (that

It is difficult, given limitations

Even at first glance, with an

When one considers that

of space, to fully detail the

activity that was 100,000 times

of which are not accurate, but

is, 50 times more “potent” than

analysis of these papers, but I will

weaker than oestradiol, it would

all of which give a “worst-case

butylparaben). It is extremely

summarize as best I can without

seem that it is unlikely that even

scenario” — I have calculated

important to note that this study

losing the “flavour.” Routledge

the most “potent” paraben

that, to achieve the test dose of

measured only estrogenic activity

measured the estrogenic activity

would be expected to pose a

butylparaben employed in this

— the ability of a substance

10

winter 2010/2011

Now there’s a headline to catch your eye! Let me state my own position, right at the start of this article: I believe that there is no risk to human health from the continued use of parabens in cosmetics. I have no vested interest in parabens because, although my employer does sell parabens and paraben-based blends, we also offer many — if not most — of the alternative options, both traditional preservatives and “secondary antimicrobials.” If I believed that there was genuine cause for concern regarding the use of parabens, I would put an equal amount of time and energy into promoting the benefits of the alternatives and also into correcting people who quote incorrect information in Internet discussion groups as I currently do in defence of parabens! I will also make it clear that the content of this article is my own personal opinion and I am not acting as a representative of any organization. to bind to estrogen receptors.

as claimed. Without this, a large

both the blanks and the tissue

suggest that parabens are

This property is not readily

body of work becomes irrelevant

samples. This, of course, may

absorbed, metabolized and

interchangeable with estrogen

as, if the parabens are not present

be argued as being open to

excreted. Add this information to

mimicry; the two are different,

in the tissues, the claimed adverse

interpretation, but to suggest

the questions I have raised above,

although not necessarily entirely

effects cannot occur! There has

that the parabens “detected”

and it could be argued that the

unrelated. An estrogen mimic will

been wide and varied criticism

in the tissue samples had come

weight of evidence is strongly

have estrogenic activity, but the

of this study, and I don’t intend

from a cosmetic product, had

in favour of parabens not being

converse is not automatically the

to indulge in listing its every flaw,

been absorbed through the

present in human breast cancer

case, as the extent of estrogen

weakness and error. The major

skin, had been at least partially

tissue. Having (hopefully) removed

mimicry will depend on the

issue, and one that few people

degraded by skin- and blood-

one of the cornerstones of the

effects of the substance on the

are aware of, is the fact that the

borne esterases and managed

“antiparabens” arguments, it is

global gene expression of the cells

workers also detected intact

to lodge in breast cancer tissue,

my belief that this message should

in question. For the record, a study

parabens in the blank controls.

not only at the same ratios as

be spread more widely to counter

has been done to investigate

This is a fairly serious issue, as one

those in the contaminated

the misinformation that currently

this property in parabens, and

would expect this observation to

blanks, but also at (statistically)

abounds regarding the safety

the results demonstrated that

cast some doubt on the results

the same concentrations, seems

of parabens. Let’s look more

there were significant differences

from the tissue samples. Yet, it

to be stretching the imagination

closely at some of the alternatives;

between the effects of parabens

was dismissed by Darbre as the

somewhat! I accept that, in

what problems may be lurking

and oestradiol — and even

result of contamination, despite

some ways, this evidence is

ahead as the exposure to these

between the different parabens

them finding a total parabens

circumstantial, but these are

alternatives grows? They may be

themselves — on global gene

concentration in one of the blank

two major coincidences (the

equally safe — at current levels of

expression of MCF-7 cancer cells.3

samples that was higher than the

concentrations and the ratios),

exposure — but … PHM

The results of this study mean

total parabens concentrations

and this should at least throw

that it is incorrect to describe any

in 12 out of the 20 tissue samples!

considerable doubt over the

of the parabens as “estrogen

This begs the question as to why

veracity of the findings of this

mimics” or, consequently,

it was assumed that the blanks

study, especially when the serious

“hormone disruptors,” as is often

were contaminated, but the

implications of the subsequently

seen to be the case.

tissues were not, especially given

made claims are considered.

Moving on to the study by

that there was no overall statistical

There is little evidence to

Darbre, in which the authors

difference in the parabens

support a claim that parabens

claimed to have detected

concentrations of either the tissue

would migrate to breast cancer

intact parabens in human breast

samples or the blank controls.

tissue … or any other tissues. There

cancer tissue, this study is more

Moreover, the ratios of the

have been many studies during

or less the cornerstone of much

different parabens were broadly

the last few decades that have

of the subsequent work, which

the same in all samples, which

measured parabens, conjugated

has mostly been based on the

would tend to suggest that

parabens and the common

supposition that Darbre did

the source of the parabens

metabolite, p-hydroxybenzoic

indeed detect intact parabens

might have been the same for

acid, in urine, which would

2010/2011 winter

References

1. E.J. Routledge, et al., Toxicol. Appl.

Pharmacol. 153, 12–19 (1998).

2. P.D. Darbre, et al., J. Appl. Toxicol.

24, 5–13 (2004).

3. D. Pugazhendi, A.J. Sadler and P.D. Darbre, J. Appl. Toxicol, 27, 67–77 (2006).

For more information

Dene Godfrey dene62@hotmail.co.uk Visit http://tiny.cc/kld0h for more information.

11

Antiageing

Lifespan Versus

Health Span Compared with advances made in other areas of science and technology, increases in the average lifespan of humans from the beginning of the 20th century until now have not been particularly impressive. Some countries, such as Russia, have actually experienced lifespan declines. Predictions by demographers of a drop in US lifespans in this century are based on compelling evidence of declining health amongst the present generation of teens and twenty somethings. Our poor record of extending the human lifespan is attributable to the fact that medical technologies and pharmaceutical research have focused more on keeping sick people alive than on preventing the diseases and disabilities related to ageing.

T

he average person

to rise, the policy of treating

hour — goes on diabetes and

spends more

disease rather then preventing

its complications. The direct

recognized diseases of ageing

Ageing and the widely

than 90% of their

disease is unsustainable. At

cost of obesity to the NHS has

are not inevitable consequences

lifetime medical

some point during the next

been estimated at £4.2 billion

of living longer. Ageing is not

expenditure during

10–20 years, the result will be that

per annum and is climbing year

in itself the cause of diabetes,

the last 5 years of life. Although

healthcare — and consequently

on year.

obesity, heart disease, cancer

average lifespans have increased

lifespan — will be severely

moderately during the past

rationed, or national budgets

two decades, health span, the

for healthcare will consume

amount of time that one enjoys

or Alzheimer’s. Nor does ageing necessarily lead to the impairment

more than the total government

What You Think You Know About Ageing is Wrong!

a healthy, independent and

revenues for all public services.

This applies whether you are a

memory or intelligence. By

productive life, has not kept pace.

Preventable diseases such as

layman, physician, political leader,

modifying your diet and daily

In fact, health spans appear to be

type 2 diabetes, many cancers

science journalist, social scientist or

routine, staying physically and

decreasing in the US/UK; parents

and cardiovascular diseases

an author of books and articles on

mentally active, adopting

presently aged between 45 and

are increasing in incidence at

the subject. To begin the process

preventive lifestyle practices and

60 may, on average, outlive

unprecedented rates in the

of dismantling the prevailing myths

seeking appropriate medical

their children for the first time in

developed world. About 10%

and misconceptions, here are a

interventions to repair, replace

history. As medical costs continue

of NHS spending — £1 million/

few facts to consider.

and renovate deteriorated body

12

of emotional health, physical capacity, libido, cognition,

winter 2010/2011

parts and capabilities, virtually

increased population of older

all of the diseases normally

citizens will be a burden on the

associated with chronological

younger members of society fail

ageing can be either delayed,

to understand one very simple

prevented or even reversed.

fact: many people will live longer

Adopting preventive strategies at

because they are free of the

an individual level can radically

disabling medical conditions

lower the mortality rate from

that presently drain the wealth,

disease. Unfortunately, the

vitality and productivity from

institutionalized profit motive

society. It is foolish to presume that

driving the emphasis on treatment

people will somehow magically

versus prevention deprives the

live substantially longer without

majority of the world’s population

concurrent improvements in their

of the benefits of increased

health and vitality. An elderly

longevity and improved health

professional person who is still

during later life. Only those

healthy, energetic and mentally

individuals who take personal

alert benefits from additional

responsibility for their health can

years of work experience,

expect to achieve improved

judgment and maturity. Think

health and lifespans.

about it. Given the choice

An ageing population will not

between two surgeons, both of

be a drag on society, the young

whom are fit and healthy, would

or the economy. Precisely the

you prefer the doctor with 40 years

opposite scenario to this almost

of experience and thousands

universally predicted calamity

of operations under their belt to

will actually ensue. The science

remove your ruptured appendix

commentators and social

or the surgeon with 5 years and

scientists who contend that an

only 100 operations? Industry is

2010/2011 winter

Ageing Faster, Living Longer

The decline in the health status of the average British or American citizen is not principally a natural or inevitable consequence of human evolution, nor is it due to the rise of new diseases or the deterioration of the quality of the environment in which we live, although environmental factors do militate against increasing lifespans. The causes are simple and well known.

• Lifespans are increasing because advances in medical technology and pharmaceuticals are keeping sick people alive longer — but at a very high and untenable cost — not because diseases and disabilities are being prevented or that people are staying healthy longer.

• Obesity and lifestyle factors, not ageing, are the principal cause of diabetes, hypertension, most heart conditions and most cancers. Obesity is also a major causal factor for gastric reflux disease, gall bladder disease, asthma and lumbosacral spine degeneration.

• Lack of regular exercise compounds the negative medical consequences of obesity and is a risk factor for osteoporosis, as well as a wide range of adverse physical, emotional and neurological conditions.

• Probably the largest contributor to early ageing and the diseases associated with ageing is poor diet. The excessive consumption of red meat, processed foods, sugars and high fructose corn syrup, as well as trans fats and the lack of omega-3-rich foods and polyphenols from fruits and green leafy vegetables, and overeating in general, are all enemies of human health span and longevity.

• Chronic unresolved stress results in endocrine imbalances, immune system dysfunction, inflammation, sleep disorders and neurological impairment.

• Unwitting exposure to unhealthful chemicals in the environment promotes disease.

Antibiotics, synthetic endocrines, anabolic steroids and other drugs used on livestock, as well as antidepressants, hormones and other pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCP) contained in drinking water are toxins that negatively impact human health and longevity. It is difficult to accurately quantify the health cost of these toxins but many are known to cause serious diseases at relatively low concentrations. Air pollution, common in all urban areas, is a known risk factor for shortened lifespans and many serious diseases.

13

Antiageing A Prescription for Longevity.

Anyone can substantially enhance both their health span and lifespan by adopting the following measures: • Stop using tobacco products of all types and limit alcohol use to no more then 3 glasses of wine or 3 ounces of spirits per day.

• Reduce, or better yet, eliminate all processed foods, fast foods and sweetened beverages. Make green leafy vegetables your primary food group. Reduce or eliminate red meat from your diet.

• Take a pill! Add the following supplements to your daily routine.

- Resveratrol and the related compound, pterostilbene (250–1000 mg) - Non-fish oil-derived omega-3 with EPA and DHA (at least 1000 mg) - A multi-antioxidant complex such as Bio Quench (500–1000 mg) - Vitamin D (10,000 IU) - Acetyl L-carnitine and alpha lipoic acid supplements (250 mg) - Curcumin, also known as turmeric (1–2 g/day) - A multivitamin with low levels of the B vitamins (one capsule or tablet daily) - Vitamin C, preferably the oil-soluble form, ascorbyl palmitate (1 g/day).

There are, of course, many other supplements that may have a beneficial impact on health span and longevity but the published scientific evidence best supports the nutrients listed above. The majority of over-the-counter supplements are of no value whatsoever.

If prevention and personal responsibility for health become a reality, the improvements in health span could be the single largest contributor to the US and UK economies in the next 20 years.

clock” that predetermines the

by dedicated professionals

maximum lifespan for a human.

working in diverse fields are

Humans are not “programmed”

creating synergies and mutually

to die at a certain age. We know

reinforcing discoveries that are

what the principal causes of

key to lifespan extension and

ageing are, and we are rapidly

eventually eliminating ageing

closing in on solutions to these

altogether. Developments in

causes. Some, such as the

advanced prosthetics, stem cell

corruption of one’s DNA, and

therapy, organ replacement and

decreasing telomere length,

the prevention and treatment

which occur as cells divide

of cancer, heart disease and

and are replaced, are a bit

neurological conditions such as

more complex than others, but

Alzheimer’s and dementia will

none are impossible to solve. A

mean that those persons who

Manhattan Project styled attack

are presently under 60 years of

on ageing would probably solve

age and in excellent health will

all of these challenges in less than

have a reasonably good chance

10 years. Now that the medical

of living indefinitely. This assumes

and research communities are

that they are financially able to

beginning to treat ageing as

afford the treatments, drugs and

any other disease, rather than

therapeutic procedures that

accepting it as inevitable, and

will become available during

simply focusing on making older

the next 30 years. Beyond 2040,

people more comfortable,

ageing will simply be a chronic

we can expect dramatic

condition that is treatable or

breakthroughs in life extension.

preventable at a reasonable

Each new breakthrough will

cost to the patient. The timing

give humans a bit more time

of one’s death will become a

during which new discoveries

matter of individual choice.

will be made that will create

Accidents and needless wars

stepping stones to the final goal

regarding resources will become

of indefinite lifespan.

the main causes of death in the

There is no silver bullet on the

developed world.

horizon that will dramatically

Contrary to what one

extend human lifespan. The

leading antiageing scientist

increase will come in small

contends, it is not necessary to

steps that will turn ageing from

fully comprehend the incredibly

a debilitating terminal disease

complex metabolic process to

into a treatable condition, as has

develop effective drugs and

been the case with diseases such

other prevention and treatment

as diabetes, HIV-AIDS, malaria

modalities against ageing.

and many others.

Many of the most efficacious

already seeing a surge in demand

medical treatments. If prevention

for older workers compared with

and personal responsibility for

their less experienced colleagues

health become a reality, the

are rapidly increasing our ability

work by targeting unidentified

in many developed countries.

improvements in health span

to comprehend the intricacies

biological processes that they

As health span increases, we

could be the single largest

of the metabolic process. This

were not initially designed to

will see people taking up new

contributor to the US and UK

will lead to the design of new

target. Partial knowledge of

careers and starting university

economies in the next 20 years.

strategies to prevent or reverse

the biological processes being

at the age of 50 and older,

The growing influence that an

ageing and result in quantum

targeted, coupled with the

professional athletes in their 40s

educated and affluent-but-older

leaps in human longevity during

intelligent application of trial and

and 50s will challenge competitors

population exerts on extending

the coming decade. By 2020,

error, is an effective and rational

who are decades younger, and

health and longevity virtually

computers and other medical

life extension strategy. PHM

the average retirement age

ensures that the answers will be

devices will be powerful and

will increase dramatically —

found to the challenges of life

cheap enough to give scientists

which means that many more

extension within no more than a

the tools they need to virtually

people will be paying taxes and

few decades.

stop the ageing process in

contributing to the GNP for 5–20

Advances in computing power

There is no intrinsic biological

animals. This goal has already

years longer during their lifetimes.

limit to the number of years that

been achieved in the lab. The

Importantly, fewer people will be

humans can live healthy, vital,

convergence of thousands of

drawing retirement and disability

independent lives. Scientists have

independent discoveries and

payments or requiring costly

yet to identify a ticking “biological

incremental breakthroughs

14

pharmaceuticals in use today

For more information

James Betz Biotivia Bioceuticals LLC 1 River Place, Suite 1001 New York, New York 10036, USA. Tel. +1 800 458 0993 james@biotivia.com www.biotivia.co.uk

winter 2010/2011

Antiageing

Living to One

Hundred is Easy!

But is it Worth it?

Roger Coghill, a Cambridge-trained biologist with his own bioelectromagnetics laboratory, discusses how you can not only grow old healthily, but also remain active, agile and able to enjoy life to the full.

M

odern

of protecting these processes is

medicine

not being addressed in today’s

is based on

medical practices. Here’s a few

biochemistry,

examples: your heart rate is

tested in clinical

controlled by an electric field that

Content 1985 1996 (mg/100 g)

Difference (%)

Broccoli

Folic acid

43

23

-52

Broccoli

Calcium

103

33

-68

trials and relies on chemicals to

emanates from the heart’s sino-

Green beans

Vitamin B6

140

55

-61

correct bodily dysfunctions, which

atrial node; all the time you are

Carrot

Magnesium

21

9

-57

has led to a dramatic growth

alive, your brain sends out electric

Spinach

Vitamin C

51

21

-58

in pharmaceutical products

signals (EEG-detected signals or

Banana

Folic acid

23

3

-84

during the last five decades.

“brain rhythms”) to communicate

But, living organisms also use

and receive instructions from

electrochemistry to control vital

the many trillions of cells in your

life processes, and the importance

body; and when you cut your

16

Apple

Vitamin C

5

1

-80

Strawberry

Vitamin C

60

13

-67

Table I: The decreasing vitamin and mineral content of various fruits and vegetables.

winter 2010/2011

To Sleep, to Age

Getting a good night’s rest is key to healthy old age and vitality. Sleep comes in stages, but the most important of these, from a health viewpoint, is REM (Random Eye Movement) sleep. Our eye muscles are activated during REM sleep because the brain is sending out powerful signals to the cells to initiate mitosis. This mitosis or cell division ensures that your body maintains its proper number of cells. Benzodiazepine sleeping pills may get you to sleep, but they also destroy the natural pattern of sleep. So, with diazepam-type pills, you may wake up feeling headachy and tired, as if you’d never been to sleep at all. Nature’s own sleeping medication is the melatonin you make each night in your brain, which controls the sleep–wake cycle.

Some scientists at Battelle in the 1980s showed that EMFs suppress the normal nighttime rise in melatonin synthesis and suggested that this could be a cause of breast cancer. As we get older, our ability to synthesize melatonin wanes; so, by the age of 70, we make only a tenth of the melatonin we used to when 40. Melatonin is also a powerful antioxidant and is up to five times more powerful than most vitamins. This is important because the major and most favoured theory of ageing is the free radical theory developed by Denham Harman. He proposed that our bodies are gradually overwhelmed by free radial damage as, with age, the increasing absence of melatonin to neutralize free radicals may therefore be a crucial factor in the ageing process.

But, simply taking synthetic versions of melatonin (available in tablets in the US or on the Internet, but only available on prescription in the UK) does not appear to be the answer: the dose of melatonin in one tablet alone is thousands of times more than Nature’s nightly dose. This may explain why melatonin works for jet lag but not in the long-term for those in need of a good night’s rest. Recently, scientists discovered to their astonishment that plants also contain melatonin, and that this varies enormously between species. It soon became apparent that human beings could make use of this plant-derived melatonin as if they had made it themselves. In other words, plant melatonin is bioavailable to the animal kingdom. Now, this discovery has been utilized to put a legal form of melatonin into the pharmacy and health food store market — derived from certain edible grasses and in the dose levels that Nature has decided, after millions of years of evolution, are optimal for human use. finger, an electrical current of

some other electric field, then the

injury starts the wound repair

chances of good unscrambled

process. Looking after these

messages from the brain reaching

bioelectromagnetic processes is

the cells, to divide and repair, for

the start of healthy longevity.

example, is reduced. When you

Physicists will tell you that when

consider that the average adult

one electric field is created

loses a half billion cells each day,

near another, the first field gets

from the skin, internal organs,

perturbed and nothing in the

blood and so on, and that these

world can stop this fundamental

are exquisitely replaced during the

rule of nature. The reason is that all

night by cell division (mitosis), then

electrons are negatively charged,

the importance of unperturbed

and like charges repel each other.

brain rhythms becomes clear.

Arguably, for precisely this reason,

If you think that our modern

many living organisms have made

environment doesn’t create

use of alternating electric fields in

fields strong enough to cause

their vital life processes, because

biological effects (this being the

artificial alternating currents and

official view of the International

the fields they give rise to did not

Commission on Non-Ionizing

exist until a century or two ago.

Radiation Protection [ICNIRP],

Thus, endogenous biological

a body closely linked to the

signals enjoyed a good signal-

power and telecommunications

to-noise ratio. Most creatures

industries), think again: switching

tend to sleep at night, when that

on a single light bulb in any part

biggest source of electromagnetic

of a large office block has been

fields — the sun — has left the sky,

shown to alter the brain rhythms

enabling internal electric signals

of someone sitting in its basement,

to be more easily collected by

and to increase their amplitude

a receiver. If the transmission of

by way of response. Thousands of

instructions to cells is disturbed by

peer reviewed studies disagree

2010/2011 winter

with ICNIRP’s view, and some of

and exposure to EMFs has been a

them show that overexposure

recurring research result of those

to EMFs (electromagnetic fields)

working independently in this

is associated with an over-

controversial field (although it is

representation of childhood

constantly being denied by the

leukemia. At the other end of the

utilities and mobile phone firms, for

age spectrum, however, despite

obvious reasons). PHM

a handful of research studies linking Alzheimer’s and other neurodegenerative diseases with EMFs, little research has been done. I have seen enough studies to conclude that avoiding EMFs is a good idea for anyone wishing to stay healthy for a long time. After all, cancer and heart disease are the two major causes of mortality: the link between both of these

For more information

Roger Coghill Director Asphalia Food Products Ltd Alexander House, Lower Race Pontypool, Torfaen NP4 5UH, UK. Tel. +44 1495 752 122 roger@cogreslab.co.uk www.asphalia.co.uk

Vitamins, Alcohol and Exercise

My third piece of advice (avoiding EMFs and the regular ingestion of natural melatonin being the first two) is to avoid smoking (an admitted cause of lung cancer) and any other habit that suppresses your immune system. Our cellular immune system is our primary defence against debilitating diseases and, as we get older, we really need to look after it. Interestingly, one important type of white blood cell, the lymphocyte, emits melatonin at five times the physiological level when challenged by a mitogen. Another example of how defensively important that biomolecule is. You can help your immune system to stay in good condition by eating fresh vegetables. And I do mean fresh, not those in “modified atmosphere” packaging often sold in supermarkets. When you buy a packaged lettuce mixture, it looks fresh enough; but this is because the oxygen that would have oxidized it has been replaced with carbon dioxide. After 6 months, such produce still looks fresh! But, very quickly after opening the packaging, it deteriorates visibly. What you don’t see, though, is that its nutritional value has fallen dramatically.

Table I shows just how much the vitamin and mineral content of many vegetables has fallen in the last few decades … a position that has worsened since its compilation.

The vitamins in the table, such as folic acid, are all antioxidants, so will protect against free radical damage. Another thing about fruits and vegetables is that they are often adulterated with toxic chemicals. All this adds up to the advice to grow your own: the exercise is good for you (regularly lifting moderately heavy weights, such as a shovelful of earth, is said to diminish the likelihood of osteoporosis). There are 300,000 acres of prime growing land in domestic gardens or allotments in the UK, with 80% of households having access to a garden according to the Soil Association (www.soilassociation.org). If you cannot grow your own, then consider an organic food source or a farmer’s market, and close your eyes to the slightly more irregular shapes of the produce you buy!

The question of alcohol is somewhat debatable: a couple of glasses of red wine may be helpful for your heart, because of the polyphenol antioxidants they contain, but excessive drinking is going to damage your liver. Of course, there are contraindications regarding the effects of polyphenols in vivo so, when in doubt, hesitate. The science is as yet far from incontrovertible and no one, so far, has died of not drinking alcohol.

Finally, exercise: my old dad was still climbing a ladder when he was 87. I’ll warrant it didn’t do his neighbour’s blood pressure much good when they saw him in the roof, and perhaps that’s an extreme example. However, a regular walk on the country could be turned into a health-giving hobby and deliver good clean air into your lungs at the same time. Denham Harman ran 2 miles a day until a back injury stopped him from doing so at the age of 82. Born in 1916, he has never smoked and drinks alcohol in moderation; he’s now 94. Most of this antiageing advice is conceivably quite obvious; but, how many of us follow it, preferring to rely on potions, ointments and bottled miracles? And are we really talking about longevity … or simply fooling people about our age? Is that, to reiterate the question in the title, really worth it? I leave you to decide.

17

Antiageing

Skin Ageing

From Functional Impairment

to Cosmetic Solutions

in-cosmetics, the leading trade exhibition for personal care ingredients, is heading to Milan in 2011 (29–31 March). Along with ingredient manufacturers and suppliers, research laboratories and industry associations exhibiting at the show, other highlights include the scientific seminars delivered by a host of international specialists who are keen to share their expertise. Dr Luigi Rigano from Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research in Milan gives Pure Health Magazine a sneak preview of the skin ageing seminar scheduled for 30 March.

S

kin ageing remains

in melanocytes occur as well as

be considered. First of all, the

actives and formulations. Four key

a hot topic, not just

disturbances in signalling events

active ingredient’s structure gives

strategies are possible when using

within the personal

with other cell types, leading to the

a preliminary indication of its

cosmetic tools:

care ingredients

formation of age spots.

capability to penetrate the skin,

• to support the key functions of the

industry, but across the

Prof. Enzo Berardesca (San

but the difficulty in evaluating

extracellular matrix, the topical

beauty sector as a whole. I have

Gallicano Dermatological

the skin delivery process remains

supplementation of biological

read countless articles during

Institute, Italy) will describe the

high. Moreover, the formulation

precursors and the programming

the years on photoageing, the

quantification of skin ageing

should be designed in such a way

of equilibrated skin moisturization

environmental effects on skin and

parameters that are necessary

that active ingredients penetrate

strategies by new molecules

formulations intended to slow down

for the proper efficacy evaluation

the stratum corneum rather than

• to organize anti-free radical

the ageing process, so our seminar

of cosmetic and dietary

stay behind in the formulation.

strategies, as skin defences

will cover the whole spectrum —

supplements. His presentation will

Wiechers will also look at whether

are continuously challenged

from functional impairment of the

review some of the most recent

skin penetration characteristics

by reactive chemical species,

skin to cosmetic solutions. Anthony

techniques that can be applied

change as we age. Indeed, the

while their radical quenching

Rawlings (AVR Consulting Ltd, UK)

to the investigation of skin ageing

stratum corneum becomes thinner

capability is progressively

will review the latest research into

phenomena. As an example,

as one gets older, which suggests a

the key cellular and biochemical

profilometry and measurements

lower skin penetration. By contrast,

changes that take place when

of mechanical properties of the

methyl nicotinate penetration is

physical sunscreens will avoid

skin tissue ages. To develop better

skin can differentiate between

not affected, despite water levels

photoageing in a safe way

cosmetic products, it is essential

chronological ageing and

in skin being affected. Wiechers

without using an excess of skin-

to understand the physiological

photoageing, which have

will explore how deep the

changes that underlie the

cumulative effects on the skin. Skin

ingredients diffuse into the skin and

phenotypic modifications that

elasticity and other mechanical

at what age consumers should

of structured biological polymers

occur in both intrinsic and extrinsic

properties progressively worsen

start their antiageing treatments.

and the adoption of complex

skin ageing. Disturbances in the

with age and solar elastosis is

anatomy of the skin occur with

reduced • the use of new fillers and

absorbable molecules • reactivating the cell production

Stefano Manfredini

multifaceted strategies could

made evident using ultrasound C

(Dipartimento di Scienze

slow down the appearance

changes in cellular morphology

scanners. Monitoring the skin’s

Farmaceutiche at the University

of skin relaxation and its loss of

and function. A change in

condition with non-invasive tools

of Ferrara, Italy) will discuss the

keratinocyte number and types,

can help to choose personalized

fascinating theme of oxidative

The seminar promises to provide

alteration of the dermoepidermal

treatment options and assess

stress and its testing by molecular

listeners with stimulating

junction composition and

the efficacy of topical and

probes. In ageing, free radicals

educational insights into the

the anomalous expression of

systemic antiageing formulations.

accumulate in response to both

latest scientific discoveries in skin

extracellular molecules all lead to

The importance of dietary

normal biochemical processes

ageing and I look forward to

the formation of dry and wrinkled

supplements as an efficient tool in

and environmental damage,

welcoming delegates from across

skin ageing strategies will

including exposure to UV. Their

the industry. PHM

also be explored.

main effect is to increase the

skin. Functional changes

Prof. Dr Johann W.

18

accumulation of mutations in the

functionality and attractiveness.

For more information

Wiechers (JW Solutions,

nuclear and mitochondrial DNA.

the Netherlands)

Numerous studies have shown

will investigate the

that the susceptibility to damage

dermal delivery of

induced by UV is different from

Dr Luigi Rigano Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research Milan, Italy

antiageing actives.

person to person, suggesting that

(http://web.thecosmetologist.com).

The skin is directly

preventive treatment can be

accessible for topical

customized, based on individual

application, but a

genetic characteristics. In the last

few issues need to

session, I will review innovation in

To find out more about the in-cosmetics scientific seminars, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/ScientificSeminars.

winter 2010/2011

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best company

Green Ingredients

Sustainability within the C&T Markets

An organic or natural positioning in the cosmetics and toiletries sector is no longer regarded as being sufficient.

Increasingly, brands are looking at their whole production and supply chain processes to find ways of becoming more sustainable. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, looks at what sustainability means and the steps companies are taking to adopt more sustainable working practices.

S

ustainability is a

the Amazon rainforest are açai,

with the product’s research

sustainable positioning include

broad area with

Brazil nut, pracaxi, buriti oil,

and development. Traditional

Weleda, Dr Hauschka, Aveda

many facets,

cupuaçu and murumuru butter.

knowledge held by native

and Dr Bronner’s Magic Soaps,

inhabitants is taken into

all of which have invested in

communities, the project

consideration and properly

ethical sourcing projects in

research company, Organic

contributes to improving

compensated. Then, after

developing markets. A new

Monitor.1 “For natural/organic

regional development

testing the ingredients in the

initiative for Aveda is its links with

ingredients, it means sourcing,

while preserving the

laboratory and undergoing

Hope for Women, a socially and

processing, the processes

world’s largest rainforest.

a high-quality production

environmentally responsible

involved, social aspects (such

Currently, 1500 people in 58

process, they are launched

fair trade organization that’s

as relationships with growers,

community centres benefit

onto the market, ensuring

committed to providing

suppliers and customers) and

from Beraca’s programme,

their natural and organic

sustainable employment for

offsetting carbon emissions,

which helps to build their

characteristics are preserved

economically disadvantaged

etc.,” he explains. “However

business by providing training

through all the stages of the

women worldwide. As part of

the major areas of sustainability

and expanding marketing

supply chain.

the project, Aveda purchased

that natural and organic

opportunities. All Beraca’s

ingredient companies look

products and services are

at are ethical sourcing and

based on the “tripod” of

green formulations.” The latter

maintains Amarjit Sahota, Director of

20

Focusing on local

native tagua nuts, the largest fair trade sustainably harvested

sustainable development,

Committed to Sustainable Practices

refers to the manner in which

which means their benefits

The Body Shop has been

is to carve out a better future

the ingredients are used in

and impact are analysed

doing ethical sourcing for

for 400 families and help to

cosmetic formulations, to

through economic, social

decades with its Community

preserve 400 acres of rainforest

ensure the finished products

and environmental standards.

Trade Scheme and currently

in Colombia. Collecting tagua

have a lower environmental

Filipe Sabara, Business Director

spends $11.5 million annually

nuts helps to provide incentives

footprint as a result of the

for Beraca, explains what

buying ingredients, gifts and

for local forest inhabitants to

inclusion of green ingredients.

sustainability means to the

accessories from communities

protect the trees and keep the

Although sustainability has

company: “It encompasses

around the world, paying

rainforest intact.

recently become a topical

not only green formulations,

them a fair price and giving

issue for the industry, a number

but also ethical sourcing,

producers access to a global

Bulldog, claims to be the

of ingredient manufacturers,

ecological packaging,

market that would normally be

first natural men’s grooming

such as Beraca and Alban

workplace safety, fair

out of their reach. For example,

line to incorporate fair trade

Muller, have strong ecological

partnerships and responsible

the company buys cocoa

ingredients in its formulations.

roots going back many years.

socio-environmental

beans from the Kuapa Kokoo

They include green tea from

For example, Beraca created

management. Although we

company in Ghana, a fair trade

Sri Lanka, organic shea butter

its Biodiversity Enhancement

are aware that there has been

co-operative with more than

from Northern Ghana, sesame

Programme 10 years ago,

a lot of ‘greenwashing’ within

30,000 small-scale farmers. This

seed oil from Nicaragua,

with an aim is to ensure

the industry, our sustainable

has led to the development of

Brazil nut oil from Peru and

traceability in the supply of raw

concepts are assured by

community projects such as

organic sugar from Paraguay.

materials from Brazilian biomes,

valuable partnerships,

schools and village wells, as

“The ingredients are fantastic

particularly in the Amazon

certifications and awards.”

well as providing farmers with

and it’s an opportunity to

region.2 Key ingredients that

Within the Beraca organization,

income to support their families.

connect with the growers

Beraca sources sustainably from

a new chain of custody begins

Other brands committed to a

and local groups in the

rainforest product export in Colombia’s history. The intention

UK men’s toiletries brand,

winter 2010/2011

developing world,” states Simon Duffy, cofounder of Bulldog. He hopes that more cosmetic companies will opt into fair trade, as it would help to make the process more productive. “We are finding more ingredients and making sure the supply chains are certifiable all the way through,” he says. “A lot more fair trade ingredients have come through in the past couple of years. The Fairtrade Mark is as global one, compared with those covering natural products, and it is also widely understood by consumers.”

Organic Monitor finds that it is mainly natural and organic companies that are leading in terms of ethical sourcing and responsibility. “Although large firms such as L’Oréal are making a commitment to sustainability, this is a relatively new area for them,” he points out. “Others, including Unilever, are undertaking ethical sourcing because of pressure from GMOs such as Greenpeace.” Beraca has experienced a surge in demand for sustainable ingredients in Brazil and, worldwide, from its clients that include The Body Shop, Kerastase and Kiehl’s (all L’Oréal brands), Natura, Colgate Palmolive, Unilever, Aveda, Yves Rocher, Shiseido and L’Occitane. Sahota predicts that sustainability

For more information

Imogen Matthews I M Associates 18 Quarry High Street Headington, Oxford OX3 8JT, UK. Tel. +44 1865 764 918 imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk www.imogenmatthews.co.uk

will come to the forefront in the beauty industry and that ethical sourcing will shift from a “nice to have” to

ethical ingredients,” he states.

become mandatory for many

“Growing pressure from brand

companies. “For instance,

owners will ensure that ethical

Unilever has committed to

sourcing and sustainability

only sourcing sustainable

initiatives become more

palm oil, whereas L’Oréal says

widely adopted by ingredient

that it will try to only source

firms.” PHM

2010/2011 winter

References 1. Organic Monitor and Bulldog will participate at next year’s in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations, taking place in Milan, Italy (29–31 March). For more information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com.

2. B eraca will sponsor the in-focus feature, “Sustainable Beauty.”

21

Ingredient Focus

Natural Beauties Flax lignans open the door to a new generation of hair and skincare products — both oral and topical.

I

t may be a cliché, but

flaxseed is so interesting and might

been proven to be antiandrogens,

Beauty from Within effects in terms

beauty really is more than

play an important role in cosmetic

a property that gives them

of reducing hair loss and improving

skin deep. Indeed, how we

applications. Flax has been part

important benefits in terms of hair

skin appearance.

appear on the outside has

of human culture for thousands

and skin beauty when supplied via

such a far-reaching impact

of years. Linen from flax fibre was

the nutraceutical route.

Hope for a Sensitive Subject

on how we feel on the inside that

used to wrap mummies in ancient

it affects everything from personal

Egypt, and Hippocrates suggested

Balancing Hormones

relationships to job satisfaction.

the use of flaxseed for medicinal

Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the

for both men and women —

Basically, if we look good, we feel

purposes. More recently, flax has

potent, reduced form of the male

significantly negatively affecting

so much better — and research

entered the mainstream because

hormone testosterone, plays

their self-image. By the age of 40,

suggests that this is now more

of its many health benefits. Now,

a significant and complex role

half of the male population suffers

important than it has ever been

thanks to its ability to affect both

in human physiology. DHT is an

from androgenic alopecia (AGA),

before. In 2004, 52% of women

internal health and external

androgen, one of the hormones

and antiageing for men in many

rated their looks as very important

appearance, many believe

responsible for the biology of

ways revolves around hair loss.

to their self-esteem.1 However,

that flax is poised to be the next

gender that contributes to

This is a growing market as baby

by 2009, 71% of women cited

breakthrough beauty ingredient,

masculine characteristics such

boomers age … but remain young

“confidence in their appearance”

offering multiple benefits from a

as facial hair and deepening of

in their own eyes. Indeed, men’s

as being important for building

natural platform.

the voice. DHT is also connected

personal care is the fastest growing

to problems such hair loss and

segment in the bath and body care

their self-esteem — rating it higher

Hair loss can be a sensitive subject

than “having a supportive family”

Why Choose Flax?

acne. One way of combating

category, as reported by the

and way ahead of “having a

Flax is one of the richest natural

the negative effects of DHT is to

National Marketing Institute in

rewarding job.”2 In their pursuit of

sources of lignans. Indeed,

use products that can balance

2007. This opens a huge market

beauty, Euromonitor International

flaxseed has a natural lignan

the production of androgens.

for cosmeceuticals and

says that European consumers

concentration that is more than

This is where flax lignans come in.

nutraceuticals that

spent a massive €69.5 billion on

100 times higher than any other

Lignans are potent antiandrogens

can address the needs

cosmetics and toiletries in 2009.

plant source in our diet. Lignans

and research has begun to show

of male consumers.

This is about one third of the total

are phytoestrogens — estrogen-

that they work in various ways in

Androgenic alopecia is

global spend, and ahead of the

like plant compounds that exert

the human body:

the most common type

US (€41 billion) and Japan (€21.7

estrogen-mimicking effects in the

• L ignans increase the production

of hair loss and can be

billion). Against the backdrop

body. They are also important

of Sex Hormone Binding Globulin

defined as a DHT-dependent

of a global recession, this is

antioxidants and have been

(SHBG). SHBG is a protein that

process in which DHT initiates

impressive. It indicates that beauty

shown to have anti-inflammatory

binds to testosterone in the

the shrinkage or miniaturization of

is so important to consumers

actions. Thus, lignans may

bloodstream, making it inactive

the hair follicles so that they are no

that they are willing to spend a

slow down some of the natural

and thus reducing the levels

longer able to support viable hair.

sizeable proportion of their limited

processes that occur during

of free testosterone that are

disposable income to achieve it.

ageing in both men and women.

available to be metabolized into

sponsored by Frutarom, the

And, perhaps most importantly

DHT.4

manufacturer of LinumLife flax

Not surprisingly, with purse strings being squeezed, shoppers these

in terms of beauty, lignans

days want more for their money.

have many benefits, including

5-α-reductase, an enzyme that

the ingredient in fighting hair loss.

They are not content with the

minimizing hair loss and improving

is essential for the conversion of

For 6 months, 10 men consumed

basic types of skin and hair care

skin appearance. The main

testosterone to DHT, thus reducing

250 mg of LinumLife, containing

products that they might have

lignan in flax is secoisolariciresinol-

the amount of DHT produced in

50 mg of SDG. At the end of the

bought back in the 1980s, when

diglucoside (SDG). When ingested,

the body.

6 months, eight men reported

a shampoo just cleansed the hair

SDG is metabolized in the intestine

and a moisturiser simply hydrated

by gut flora into enterodiol and

enzymatic/metabolic pathways

loss condition, whereas one subject

the skin. Today’s consumers want

enterolactone — the so-called

that control androgen release,

reported a marked improvement

products that perform in innovative

‘active mammalian lignans’ —

helping to regulate the body’s

and one subject no improvement.

ways, often achieving multiple

which are then absorbed into

hormonal balance.

A reduced number of lost hairs and

tasks at the same time. In seeking

the bloodstream.3 Once in the

Figure 1 shows a simplified model

a less oily scalp were also reported.

out these added-value products,

bloodstream, these lignans can

of testosterone metabolism

This 90% success rate is an initial

consumers are becoming more

be actively used in the body

and how lignans mediate DHT

indication that shows the positive

and more attracted to products

and often play a valuable role in

production/metabolism. The

effects of LinumLife flax lignans

that have their roots in nature.

mediating the effects of certain

antiandrogenic effects of flax

on one of the biggest aesthetic

This is just one of the reasons why

hormones. For instance, they have

lignans are what provide the

problems for men — thinning hair.

22

• Lignans selectively bind with

An unpublished clinical study

• Lignans moderate other

lignans, shows the efficacy of

modest improvement in their hair

winter 2010/2011

About Linu

mLife LinumLife® is a unique ingredie nt manufactured source of flax

by Frutarom. It lignans and is is a concentrate supported by pr beneficial effect d oprietary science s, the dosage re . To achieve quirement of Lin the equivalent of umLife is just 0. around 5–10 g 1–1 g, which is of whole flaxsee of use of Linum d. The small do Life, and its neut sage, the ease ra l ta ste, opens up an for flax lignan ap array of new op plications, such portunities as one-a-day ca toiletries, foods psules and table and much more. ts, cosmetics,

2010/2011 winter

23

Ingredient Focus to-oily skin, facial blackheads, a sebum level of 100–200 µg/cm2 and visible spots on the face.

The study showed a significant reduction (34%) in acne lesions and a 20% reduction in seboregulation as measured by sebumetry, a photometric method of measuring sebaceous secretion. Thus, the combination of oral and topical applications with LinumLife and Linumine, respectively, offers an excellent opportunity for acne management.

A New Generation of Cosmetics Flax lignans are a new and exciting ingredient for beauty formulations, both oral and topical. The phytoestrogenic effects of lignans, as they are metabolized and absorbed by the body, play a role in hormonal metabolism. By moderating the production of DHT, the potent form of the main male hormone testosterone, lignans

Figure 1: Regulation of testosterone levels.

contribute to hair health and

Clear Benefits Figure Skin 1 for

it is primarily responsible for

skin appearance. Manufacturers

androgen receptor binding

can therefore look to LinumLife

Oily skin affects many people

and the stimulation of sebum

to provide the next breakthrough

of many ages and is caused

production. However, the

ingredient in the burgeoning

by a variety of factors, such

flax lignan metabolite,

market for products that offer

as genetics, diet, stress and

enterolactone, is able to inhibit

the highly desirable prospect of

hormone levels. Oily skin is

the activity of 5-α-reductase,

beauty and its associated ‘feel

considered to be less aesthetic

which leads to lower DHT levels

good’ factor. PHM

in appearance than ‘normal’

as less testosterone can be

skin and may lead to acne,

converted. Thus, the complex

which can have a significant

mechanism of flax lignans in

psychological and social impact

the testosterone cycle can help

on individuals and may cause

to reduce sebum production

lowered self-esteem, anxiety,

and keep skin clear and less

depression and poorer overall

sensitive to developing acne.

quality of life. Because of the widespread nature of oily skin,

Topical Possibilities

skincare products to reduce

In addition to the antiandrogenic

oiliness and acne account

properties related to the oral

for a significant section of the

consumption of flax lignans,

cosmetic and cosmeceutical

topical applications have also

markets. Flax lignans have great

been shown to be effective

potential in these markets, thanks

on skin appearance. A clinical

to their ability to help reduce oily

study, sponsored by Frutarom

skin and contribute to a clearer

and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics,

complexion.

examined the sebum-reducing

An excess of sebum, an oily

24

effects of Linumine, a cosmetic

substance that’s produced

version of LinumLife.5 Twenty one

by the skin’s sebaceous

female volunteers applied a

glands, characterizes oily

cream enriched with flax lignans

skin. Again, DHT plays an

twice daily for 28 days. The

important role in this process;

study participants had mixed-

References

1. BMRB survey of 2011 British adults aged 16+ (23–25 April 2004).

2. YouGov survey of 2013 UK adults aged 18+ (1–3 April 2009).

3, L. Denis, et al., European Urology 35, 377–387 (1999).

4. L. Wang, Journal of Chromatography B 777, 29–43 (2002).

5. L inumine is marketed by Lucas Meyer (www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com).

For more information

Mira Koppert Product Manager, LifeLine Medical Sciences and Regulatory Affairs Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. Tel. +41 44 782 6572 mkoppert@ch.frutarom.com www.frutarom.com

winter 2010/2011

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

® 2010/2011 winter FLAVEX Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com

25

Ingredient Focus

Three Challenges, One Solution: Collagen Proteins

W

e’d all like to

problem. Taste is and will always

be healthy,

remain the primary criterion for

good-

a foodstuff; it is the principal

looking

requirement for consumer

and slim.

acceptance and commercial

These three basic attributes are

success. For this reason, suppliers

common to almost all countries,

of food ingredients in particular

cultures and population groups

have an obligation to provide

around the world. However, very

their customers with tailor-made

few are willing to accept lifestyle

solutions so that they, in turn, can

or eating habit restrictions to

develop such products. Suppliers

achieve these goals. The result

of complete solutions will,

is an incongruity: a discrepancy

therefore, always have an edge

between health and enjoyment.

compared with the competition.

In the past, consumers have

Being healthy generally

frequently established that

means being physically active

“good for them” products don’t,

and mobile as we age. As

in fact, taste all that good. The

such, there are a number of

challenge for the functional

interesting approaches that can

food industry is, therefore, to

be taken to develop successful

develop products that solve this

products for joint health and

26

winter 2010/2011

Ingredient Focus Collagen Proteins

Figure 1: Cartilage regeneration after 48 weeks. the prevention of osteoarthritis.

be incorporated into nutritional

contributes to smooth, wrinkle-

More than 25% of the global

supplements and functional food

free skin, strengthens nails

population suffers from joint

products, regardless of whether

and promotes attractive,

problems; this represents a

they are in liquid, solid or powder

healthy hair. Asian consumers,

considerable loss in terms of

form.

particularly women, have long

quality of life. The principal

The market for products

since recognized the value of

Gelita’s holistic range of native collagenderived ingredients offer technological, body stimulating and health-enhancing properties, depending on the requirements of the individual product.

• Collagen peptides are optimized for different application fields and provide the benefits required of a measurable health ingredient. Special collagen peptides show convincing effects on joint health (FORTIGEL), bone health (FORTIBONE) and skin health/beauty (VERISOL). They have no allergic potential and are stable in liquid formulations.

• Gelatins have a medium molecular weight and provide huge waterbinding capacities and unique texturizing properties. Gelatin is warm water-soluble and forms clear elastic and thermoreversible gels. It has excellent foaming capabilities and produces stable durable foams.

Collagen itself has the highest molecular weight of the group. It can contain different soluble and nonsoluble collagen protein fractions with a variety of functions. Depending on the proportions of these fractions, it can be adapted to various needs such as texturizing and fat mimicking.

reason for these problems

that promote joint health is

collagen; it is normally sufficient

is wear and tear of the joint

significant: Frost & Sullivan has

just to point out that a particular

cartilage because of increasing

predicted an annual growth of

product contains collagen to

longevity, being overweight or

6.1% for joint health products

guarantee success. In Europe

the mechanical stress of intensive

in the USA alone until 2015,

and in the USA too, consumers

sport. Despite considerable

bringing the market volume

know about the benefits of

medical progress, there is still no

to $164.6 million. Apart from

collagen, mostly because of

cure for osteoarthritis and only

osteoarthritis, osteoporosis — loss

the claims made by cosmetic

stimulating skin metabolism and

a few therapeutic remedies to

of bone density and elasticity

companies. However, collagen

the formation of new collagen.

treat the disease. In most cases,

— is a worldwide problem. In

is still rather rare as an ingredient

In this way, VERISOL can slow

the symptoms are treated …

particular, osteoporosis affects

in foodstuffs and in health and

down the skin ageing process

and not the cause. However,

post-menopausal women. Here,

nutrition products. It’s quite clear,

and significantly improve the

FORTIGEL tackles this problem

FORTIBONE offers the health

though, that this well-established

overall condition of the skin. In

in a completely different way.

and nutrition industry a number

Asian trend is heading west!

a Tokyo 2008 study, 91% of the

FORTIGEL comprises optimized

of ways to exploit this market

VERISOL, another product from

participants showed improved

collagen peptides that have

segment. The collagen peptides

GELITA, also comprises collagen

skin moisture and elasticity after

been scientifically proven to

contained in FORTIBONE promote

peptides. It stimulates skin cells

taking collagen peptides for a

stimulate the regeneration of

the build up of collagen in bones,

and provides a variety of notable

period of 2 months.1 Similar results

cartilage tissue in the joints. After

render these elastic and, hence,

application possibilities for

were obtained in a study done

oral administration, FORTIGEL

dramatically reduce bone

product developers.

in the same year in Lyon: here,

stimulates the cartilage cells to

fractures — all of which has been

increase the production of both

scientifically proven (Figure 1).

collagen and proteoglycans

Whereas creams and other

41% of the participants had fewer

topical cosmetic products barely

wrinkles, more elastic skin and

penetrate to the deeper layers of

increased skin moisture after taking collagen peptides for 12

— the two major components

Beauty from Within

the skin, VERISOL — administered

that make up almost 90% of

In Asia, collagen-based

orally — directly influences

weeks.2 VERISOL is produced

cartilage dry mass. By treating

beauty products are already

skin from inside the body. The

from native collagen and has

the causes and not just the

well established in the market

bioactive collagen peptides

excellent bioavailability. As such,

symptoms of the condition,

and can be found in many

in the product substantially

it can easily be incorporated

FORTIGEL considerably improves

supermarkets. In addition,

increase skin moisture so that

into a range of products — from

joint mobility, reduces pain and

collagen has been exceptionally

it becomes soft and smooth. It

pharmaceutical-like applications

hence produces a higher quality

successful in beverages,

also improves the elasticity of

such as capsules, film-coated

of life. FORTIGEL offers a new

confectionery and other

the skin and its ability to bind

tablets, standard tablets

solution to this growing market.

products … and even as an

moisture, effectively preventing

and capsettes to nutritional

It is a foodstuff that can easily

additive for coffee. Collagen

the formation of wrinkles by

supplements and indulgence

Collagen contributes to smooth, wrinkle-free skin, strengthens nails and promotes attractive, healthy hair.

28

winter 2010/2011

products are to be successful,

texture. With its outstanding

they must offer a significant

water binding and foaming

calorific content advantage and,

capabilities, it increases the

at the same time, provide the

volume of food to decrease the

expected taste profile.

weight per serving. In practice,

Generally, weight

this means that the energy

management concepts can be

content per serving is much

reduced to a simple mechanism

lower. Additionally, the net

of balancing energy intake with

energy yield from protein is lower

energy output. Therefore, the

than that of carbohydrates. PHM

most important aspects facing food developers around the globe are replacing fat and reducing the calorie load per products such as chocolate. The

being. In addition, it does not fit

serving. VITARCAL is a holistic

appeal of the nutricosmetics

in with the ideals of beauty held

range of collagen proteins that

market is beyond dispute: based

by most cultures and population

address these issues without

on 2009 figures of $2.1 billion,

groups. For the consumer,

compromising their sensory

Frost & Sullivan has predicted

this means: if I can control my

profiles — the critical success

annual growth of 17.8 % to $5.62

body weight, I can live a much

factor for modern foodstuffs.

billion by 2015.

healthier life and be more

Because of its ability to create

attractive. Very few people,

2-phase water-in-water systems,

Guilt-Free Pleasure

however, when faced with the

VITARCAL can provide a

Being overweight has a dramatic

choice between lower-calorie,

creamy mouthfeel by mimicking

effect on health. It increases

healthier — but often less tasty —

fat. For example, in boiled

the mechanical stress on joints,

alternatives end up making the

sausages or muffins, it can

stresses the cardiovascular

“right decision.” It is thus obvious

replace some of the fat without

system and reduces general well-

that if weight management

a noticeable loss of taste or

References

1. Souken Study (Tokyo, Japan, 2008): a 2-month study with hydrolysed collagen.

2. Dermiscan Study (Lyon, France): cutaneous properties of hydrolysed collagen.

For more information

Oliver Wolf Corporate Communications GELITA AG Uferstraße 7, D-69412 Eberbach Germany.

Tel. +49 6271 84 2194 oliver.wolf@gelita.com www.gelita.com

Herbs For Health Nature’s Herb Co. Since 1915

Green Energy Colon Cleansing Diet Tea ‘Naturally’

SEE WEBSItE FOR FuLL LINE OF HERBAL CAPSuLES San Francisco Herb and Natural Food Co. ® 47444 Kato Road, Fremont, CA 94538 Tel: 800-227-2830 Fax: 510-770-9021

www.herbspicetea.com 2010/2011 winter

29

Trends and Innovations

Innovation The Land of Opportunity?

Innovation is a popular topic right now. People are talking about it … a lot. The term itself is pretty much used to describe any new cosmetic product launch that claims a somewhat innovative novelty. But what makes an innovation and what does innovation actually mean? Generally, it could be defined as being the successful market implementation of a first-time product, taking into account that this product has to be perceived as a novelty by the consumer to become a real innovation. A product that does not gain a certain level of awareness by the consumer — or a product that fails to raise consumer interest — can clearly not be considered to be an innovation, no matter how technically advanced the invention is.

W

hy do we

customer retention. Looking at

product launches in the eye

“Social networking” and “open

need this

the development trends in the

shadow segment has increased

innovation” are two of the

continuous

current markets, it’s not difficult

by 66% between 2007 and 2009.

most important catchwords in

flow of

to see how important innovation

innovation?

is to address the problem of

this context. Thanks to social

steadily shortening product

Idea Generation in the Web 2.0 era

networks, companies can forge

From a business point of view, as well as from a market point

lifecycles. As a consequence,

As part of the successful

tracking their habits, listen to

of view, there are very strong

companies face the challenge

innovation process, idea

their opinions and even openly

arguments that justify increased

of producing more and more

generation plays a critical role.

enquire about their wishes

efforts to find innovations in the

innovative products in very

In theory, there are two sources

and needs with respect to new

cosmetic sector. In the highly

short timeframes. The number

of idea generation: demand-

product development. One

competitive environment of the

of new colour cosmetic product

pull and technology-push. A

reason why this new interactive

colour cosmetic mass market,

launches demonstrates this

technology push implies that a

communication is so successful

for example, companies need

trend impressively (Figure1).

new invention is pushed through

is the changing consumer

to differentiate themselves

Almost every category in colour

R&D, production and sales

behaviour that the industry is

from each other to gain a

cosmetics, from eye to nail to

onto the market without proper

facing. Consumers these days

competitive advantage. Unique

lip colour, has dramatically

consideration of whether or not it

don’t simply buy products; they

selling propositions are crucial

increased the number of new

satisfies a user need. By contrast,

want to be heard, informed and

to increase consumer benefits

variants on offer each year. For

an innovation based upon

treated as individuals — even in

and, therefore, create stronger

example, the number of new

market pull has been developed

a mass market environment.

close links to their customers,

by the R&D function in response

Number of Variants

Lip Colour Cosmetics – Lip Colour Eye Colour Cosmetics – Eye Shadow Nail Colour Cosmetics Face Colour Cosmetics – Foundations Eye Colour Cosmetics – Eye Liner

3000

2000

2009

2008

2007

1000

0

Figure 1: Number of new product launches in Europe (2007–2009).

30

Obviously, the probability of a

Innovation Drivers in Colour Cosmetics

successful market introduction

To translate the expressed

is much higher for innovations

consumer needs into real

that integrate consumer needs

products, there are, technically

into the innovation process —

speaking, three key drivers

instead of technology induced

of innovation in the colour

novelties that might not initiate

cosmetic sector that have

enough market acceptance.

to be considered; these are

In the era of Web 2.0, industry

the outer packaging, the raw

is now facing a completely

materials used (and related

new way of integrating the

formulations) and texture

consumer into its processes

innovations, respectively. One

and to generate customer

of the latest trends in packaging

proximity as never known before.

technology, for example, is

to an identified market need.

4000

winter 2010/2011

the “packlication,” which

chamber packaging that allows

emphasizes the high innovation

a customized colour mix for the

make-up, the nude effect, is still

consumer’s skin, which once

potential of this part of product

lips or the face, or adjustable

on the rise. This trend is not just

again brings R&D closer to the

development. Packlication

mascaras that claim to provide

about developing formulations

new end-user.

is a term used to describe a

different low- to high-volume

with lower pigmentation levels

combination of packaging and

effects with just one product.

or micronized pigments to

Conclusion

avoid a masking effect, there’s

Innovation in cosmetics and, specifically, colour cosmetics

application that can now, for

Another mega-trend in

effect, depending on the

segments of the colour cosmetic

Innovation in Formulation

more to it than that. It involves examining the optical properties

is everywhere! Nevertheless,

market, from lip to face, eye

Some of the most striking

of functional particles such as

some of these innovations might

and nail colour. Clearly, product

innovations in terms of

soft-focus fillers or interference

not create the aspired market

applicators play a special role in

formulation and texture can

pigments into foundations to

impact; consumers can easily

this respect as they are getting

be found in colour cosmetics;

obtain illuminated and natural-

be overwhelmed by overly

integrated into packaging that,

numerous segments of this

looking skin, or to erase the signs

complicated handling or highly

previously, did not contain an

market have seen some

of ageing — such as wrinkles or

sophisticated marketing claims.

applicator, such as foundations

remarkable innovations in the

age spots — thanks to the rise

From consumer interviews, we

or eye shadows. Integrated

past few years, such as long-

of HD-technology. The desire for

know that products that can’t

applicators such as brushes,

lasting, transfer-resistant liquid

flawless skin will continue to grow

be understood and handled

roll-ons or sponges support the

lipsticks, lip stains and the

and represent one of the biggest

easily can lose their credibility

convenience aspects of the

revival of the cake eyeliner,

challenges for raw material

very quickly. Consumers

products and, at the same time,

just to mention a few. Around

and formulation development

demand reliable products

add new dimensions to the

the time of the millennium,

in facial colour cosmetics in the

with non-overstated claims.

normally non-exciting procedure

the field of foundations also

future. Regarding the growing

And, they want real efficacy,

of product application. More

underwent a significant renewal,

need for individual products,

which means that, sometimes,

advanced technologies using

with the development of what

there are also new technologies

an innovation might just be a

battery operated applicators

was, at the time, completely

in facial colour cosmetics

better answer to a consumer’s

are available but haven’t yet

novel mousse textures that

that can provide solutions to

need than a new breathtaking

managed to break into the

became achievable because

this demand. New iron oxide

technology. PHM

market, most probably because

of the introduction of silicone

encapsulation technologies

of their comparably high costs,

elastomer technology. Now, 10+

offer surprising colour effects,

very sophisticated handling

years later, this breakthrough

turning a white cream into a

and a lack of clear application

technology has become highly

skin-tone foundation upon

advantages. Technologies that

important for the facial colour

application. This not only offers

address the consumer desire

cosmetic market, resulting in a

an as yet unknown application

for individualism are becoming

wide variety of offerings from

experience, but also suggests an

more mainstream, such as two-

mass to prestige brands.

individual colour development

example, be seen in various

2010/2011 winter

For more information

Katrin Steinbach Cosmetic Scientist/Master of Business Marketing Product Innovation Manager Steinbach_Katrin@web.de

31

Toiletries and Personal Care Products

Natural and Organics Lead the Way in Beauty Essentials With ingredients sometimes causing an allergic reaction

or

exacerbating

skin

conditions,

consumers are becoming even more aware of the contents of their favourite shampoo and body wash. Dr Kevin Robinson spoke to Dr Shamini Singh,

a

qualified

homeopath/naturopath,

who is the Marketing and PR Manager for natural health retailer, Revital. Shamini gave the lowdown on the alternatives available to consumers seeking a more natural approach to their bathroom cabinet essentials.

R 32

evital is a leading

Natural and Organic

independent

“We see it as our priority to

chain of health

offer our customers a selection

stores whose

of products that are free from

core focus is the

parabens, aluminium and any

health and well-being of their

other chemicals,” comments

customers, which is at the

Shamini. “We have many ranges

centre of everything they do.

that can be used by the entire

The business has been supplying

family, all of which are completely

consumers with high quality

safe to use every single day.” A

and innovative natural health

key brand, exclusive to Revital,

products, health foods and

is Nature’s Gate, which was

supplements for nearly 20 years.

founded more than 30 years ago

Shamini says: “Every product

by two men who simply saw what

must pass strict criteria before it

nature had to offer. Nature’s Gate

is allowed in store. We sell all the

products use all-natural herbs

main brands of herbal remedies

and pH-balanced formulas. The

and nutritional supplements,

products are carefully formulated

with a focus on providing our

to preserve the Earth’s natural

customers with a range of

resources while still offering

natural and organic solutions to

fantastic results. There are a

suit every price range.”

number of varieties, including

winter 2010/2011

an organic range of beauty

consumers are not changing to

and beauty consultants, who

essentials containing lavender

a natural or organic alternative,”

are on hand to answer customer

and aloe vera, which is suitable

states Shamini. “But, in the last 5

queries. “The Internet is a really

for both men and women.

years, we have seen the launch

useful tool but the information

“Nature’s Gate contains an array

of more and more product lines

available is not always accurate.

of certified organic botanicals

that fit every person’s spending

We want to make certain that

that soothe and soften the skin,”

abilities. Furthermore, the

our customers have access to

remarks Shamini. “Manufactured

organics industry is no longer

the most reliable and up-to-

without animal testing and with

restricted to food; we are seeing

date information available,

no animal by-products, the

a trend whereby more and

which is why we invest

packaging is also completely

more customers are looking for

heavily in the knowledge and

biodegradable — supporting a

natural alternatives in a variety

development of our staff using

clean environment.”

of lifestyle areas. People are

professional in-house training,”

becoming increasingly conscious

comments Shamini.

“The Trilogy natural actives range for men combines natural

of what they are using at home,

extracts from herbs and plants

from make-up to skincare. As

approach with our customers.

with advanced skincare science,”

a specialist retailer, we are

We ask them questions and use

adds Shamini. “The lightweight

delighted to be able to help

our knowledge of the category

formulas contain pure plant

our customers to select natural

to make a recommendation

oils and skin energizing Multi-

solutions that meet all their

that is specific to their needs.

Mineral Complex M3, combining

health and beauty needs, from

We encourage people to trial

zinc, copper and magnesium

body washes to moisturizers,”

products to see what’s right for

to restore skin vitality. Products

adds Shamini.

them. Our customers can also go

“We have a very gentle

to our website and put a question

include a four-step plan to cleanse, shave, soothe and

Help and Advice

to our team of experts,” adds

moisturize.” Natural and organic

Revital believes that good

Shamini. As a business, Revital

product ranges are also very

customer service is an essential

has set up demonstration and

effective at treating specific

part of driving this area of the

pamper days for customers and

health conditions and skin types.

market. “We receive hundreds

provides extensive consumer

Because they contain nothing

of customer enquiries every day

literature that customers can

detrimental, many are considered

from people looking for help and

take away. So, for Revital, natural

to be hyperallergenic and

advice. In many cases, customers

and organics is definitely the way

suitable for treating dermatitis or

simply want to understand the

forward! Shamini concludes:

eczema, or specific formulas for

benefits that natural and organic

“We should all be looking to

thin hair or a dry scalp.

products offer.” Customers who

make changes, one step at a

visit a store can consult Revital’s

time, to all our bathroom cabinet

Organic Doesn’t Mean Pricy!

team of experts, which includes

essentials. This is a sector that no

homeopaths, nutritionists,

longer restricts its customer base

“Expense is often cited as

naturopaths, herbalists, sports

because of price; it has something

the main reason why many

nutritionists, personal trainers

to offer everybody.” PHM

The organics industry is no longer restricted to food; we are seeing a trend whereby more and more customers are looking for natural alternatives in a variety of lifestyle areas.

2010/2011 winter

Dr Shamini Singh

For more information Dr Shamini Singh Homeopath/Naturopath Revital Tel. +44 800 252 875 www.revital.co.uk

33

Oral Health

Chew Your Way to Healthy Teeth

A

s the world

continues to shine a spotlight on

• More or less all people experience some of the symptoms of gingivitis during their lifetime.

beauty, and link it

Furthermore, dental care is a very

to well-being and

costly part of the budget for the

a symbol of social status, a good

average consumer. So much that

looking set of teeth is an integral

a third of the population does

part of this trend. Being a very

not receive the necessary dental

visible and noticeable component

care and is going through life

of one’s body, and something

with dental hygiene problems

that has a very big impact on

that can lead to more severe

many personal feelings — such

problems later on, such as heart

as self confidence — healthy

disease and strokes. One of the

teeth have become a vital part

growing reasons why such dental

of one’s overall self-satisfaction.

problems occur is our diet. As the

However, as consumers continue

world continuously consumes

compressed gum. Made from

to buy products that don’t exactly

more and more sugarized food

a powder base and processed

promote good oral hygiene, it is

and acidic beverages, dental

under cold and dry conditions,

becoming more important to take

ailments and diseases will continue

this new chewing gum is very

preventive steps to avoid major

to spur. Thus, a stronger focus

suitable as a delivery system for

dental problems. Chewing gum

should be placed on prevention

active ingredients. Gumlink has

by itself has long been known as

and the maintenance of good

so far been able to incorporate

a good way to maintain good

oral hygiene. One possible aid is

the following active ingredients

oral hygiene. And now, a Danish

chewing gum.

that promote good oral hygiene: fluoride, zinc, pycnogenol,

chewing gum maker is able to

Chewing Gum: Good for Oral Health

potassium chloride, calcium

active ingredients with oral care benefits into its chewing gum,

Sugar-free chewing gum as a way

including effective doses of these

allowing for an even better way to

to promote good oral hygiene is

active ingredients, Gumlink has

keep one’s teeth looking great.

very well known, and is also very

been able to develop chewing

well documented. Its inherent

gum concepts covering such

Oral Care Problems

benefits include the following:

application areas as

Within the oral care category

• stimulation of saliva flow in the

• fresh breath

incorporate significant amounts of

there are several problem areas,

mouth

pyrophosphate and xylitol. By

• cavity protection

such as tooth decay, sensitive

• cleans mouth of food debris

• sensitive teeth

teeth, halitosis (bad breath), dental

• alleviates the feeling of dry mouth

• oral bacteria reduction

erosion and gingivitis. Here are

• neutralizes plaque acids and

• whitening

some facts that indicate how big

reduces plaque

• overall protection.

the oral care area actually is:

• strengthens teeth

Thus, when chewing one of these

• Approximately 50% of the

• reduces risk of dental caries

concepts, the inherent benefits of

population suffers from sensitive

• prevents stains.

chewing gum are combined with

teeth

Although these benefits are great

the unique benefits of the active

by themselves, Danish chewing

compound to create products

is estimated to be worth £821

gum manufacturer, Gumlink A/S,

that are able to maintain good

million, and is growing at 5% per

has now upgraded these benefits

oral hygiene and prevent serious

year

by including effective doses of

dental diseases. Much better

several active ingredients.

than traditional chewing gum!

• The total UK oral health market

• Americans spend approximately $10 billion on oral hygiene

So, can a chewing gum replace a good old brushing of the

one of the most common health

Chewing Gum with Extra Oral Care Benefits

complaints in the world

Gumlink A/S has recently

between brushes, ensuring

developed a totally new type of

healthy teeth all day long, and

chewing gum called Dual-layered

it’s fun to chew. PHM

products • Tooth decay (dental caries) is

• Around 40% of the world’s population suffers from halitosis

34

teeth or flossing? No! But, it is a great supporting measure

Bibliography

1. w ww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pubmed/18050578?dopt=Abstract 2. w ww.articlesbase.com/health-articles/ cavities-and-the-problem-of-badbreath-2395079.html 3. w ww.colgate.com/app/Colgate/US/OC/ Information/Popular-Topics/SensitiveTeeth/What-Is-Tooth-Sensitivity.cvsp 4. w ww.wrigley.com/global/documents/ oral_health_fact_sheet.pdf 5. w ww.everydayhealth.com/ dental-health/oral-conditions/ gum-disease.aspx?xid=nl_ EverydayHealthHeartHealth_20100227 6. w ww.chemistanddruggist. co.uk/c/portal/layout?p_l_ id=259751&CMPI_SHARED_ articleId=4405736&CMPI_SHARED_ ImageArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_ CommentArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_ ToolsArticleId=4405736&CMPI_ SHARED_articleIdRelated=4405736 7. w ww.medicinenet.com/script/main/ art.asp?articlekey=50509 8. w ww.bbc.co.uk/health/physical_ health/conditions/toothdecay2.shtml 9. w ww.healthtree.com/articles/halitosis/ bad-breath-treatment/

For more information

Thomas Jahn Business Development, Nutraceuticals Gumlink A/S Dandyvej 19, DK-7100 Vejle, Denmark.

Tel. +45 7215 1647 tahn@gumlink.com www.gumlink.com

winter 2010/2011

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Lonza is amongst the first raw material suppliers to offer raw materials that are NaTrue approved.

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