Jocelyn - A sustainable subscription brand

Business Proposition

“This season’s capsule”

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MSc - Fashion Buying and Merchandising MSc - International Fashion MSc - International MSc - Luxury

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Merchandising Management Fashion Business Management International Fashion Marketing Luxury Fashion Management 26/09/2022

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Can a clothing subscription service encourage underconsumption?

Investigating the effectiveness, type of brand to consumer have in comparison to street shopping

clothing subscription service encourage underconsumption?

effectiveness, a different consumer model can to normal high shopping behaviours

Project aim

The Aim of this study is to explore a seasonbased clothing subscription as a solution to reduce over-consumption and tackle the growing issue of textile waste.

Project scope

The primary desired outcome of this research is a quarterly fashion subscription providing consumers with the clothing items they need to build a capsule wardrobe, eliminating the need to follow trends and overconsume. To achieve this critical research will be used to build a brand proposal, documenting the rationale behind the brand, and concluding in creative marketing strategies and proposed product line.

Project Objectives

one

two

Determine, using a critical review of academic research, the benefits of the slowing down of fashion post covid-19.

Research the Macro of subscription models this to develop subscription-based

Slow Fashion Capsule Wardrobe Seasons Subscription

Objectives Over-Consumption

three

Macro Environment models and use a strategy for a subscription-based fashion brand

To examine how a capsule wardrobe model can assist in the slowing down fashion and reducing textile waste through brand and product range development

Background

A subscription “arrangement to a publication, regularly (Cambridge Dictionary, subscription model products or services basis, making regular these products. customer’s journey brand to consumer

can be defined as an receive something, typically regularly by paying in advance.” Dictionary, 2022). The eCommerce model lets consumers sign up for services they need on a regular regular payments to access

This model improves the journey and increases the lifetime consumer value.

Appendix)

Curation services; 55% of subscription services operate under (Chen, T., Fenyo, K., Yang, S. and Zhang, J., 2018) meaning each receives a personalised product, unknown to them before

Replenishment services; This is an automated service used by 32% of businesses (Chen, T., Fenyo, K., Yang, S. and Zhang, J., 2018), for everyday items that often need replacing. This business model the largest level of long-term subscribers, due to the nature of consumer

Access subscriptions; The lesser known and lesser used business model, for 13% of subscription businesses (Chen, T., Fenyo, K., Yang, S. and 2018), this type is used for consumers to gain perks such as discounts

There are 3 types of subscription models that each offer products or on a repetitive basis (See

under this model each consumer receiving it. of subscription 2018), usually used tends to hold consumer need. model, only accounts and Zhang, J., or newsletters.

This proposition shows how a season-based clothing subscription could serve as a solution to reduce overconsumption and tackle the growing issue of textile waste by utilising an adapted version of the replenishment model. Fashion consumers like ease (Wrap, 2019), a subscription service based around the meteorological seasons could provide ease at the same time as introducing the idea of owning less to consumers. Since the Covid-19 Pandemic sustainable views on fashion have been on the rise, showing consumers have a care for how their habits affect the overall impact of fashion. In 2021 47% of consumers have repaired clothing and 39% of consumers bought second hand (Mintel, 2021) these behaviours prove the large majority of consumer make conscious decisions towards sustainability. Adding sustainability and ease to a brand could create a very desirable business model.

Rationale

Through the Covid-19 pandemic there was a rise in the fashion subscription market, consumers were forced into changing their shopping habits, at the start of the pandemic the subscription market was expected to grow by 77% reaching over £1bn by the end of 2020, continuing this growth through to 2022 (Wrap, 2019). In the UK subscription service customer rose 34% between 2020 and 2019 (Petro, G. 2019).

Rationale

...

Proposing an eCommercebased brand means delivery is unavoidable, however due to the more personalised nature of the subscription model, returns should be minimal in contrast to standard eCommerce which have a return rate of 25% on all orders (McKinsey, 2021).

Consumers the easy initial research showing rise of research click and support mortar lucrative Fashion that many towards instead 2022), brands in instore pushing footfall. sales strategy, positive delivering to store of transportation, the transport

Consumers will always pick easy option and with research into the market showing a trend towards the the subscription model, research into delivery and and collect services can support the idea that brick and may not be the most lucrative model. The State of Fashion Report for 2022 found many brands have shifted towards click and collect instead of delivery (McKinsey, showing that traditional are seeing the decrease instore shopping and are pushing for a re-increase in footfall. Although this may be a strategy, it parallels as a positive step for the environment; delivering consumer orders store creates one mode transportation, removing need for constant transport to recipient houses.

Determine, using a critical review of academic research, the benefits the slowing down fashion post Covid-19

a academic benefits of of Covid-19

Clothing textile up 91 MT of waste and kerbside waste 2019). Each creates 3.1kg waste each only 0.7kg of or reused and 1.7kg of this up in landfill

Why Underconsume?

Underconsumption

The recycling households went in 2019 to 44% 2022) making largest producer in Europe (Moore, each Briton spending £980.50 (Moore, new clothing items country leans behaviours of than its more parallel, under

To counter this, industry itself needs of change; creating to counter

be the way forward. fast fashion and (See

question the the need for consumption clothing textile

–

“The purchase of goods and services at levels that fall below the available supply” (Investopedia, 2022)

overconsumption

Appendix)

textile waste makes of UK household 254,00 MT of waste yearly (Wrap, Each UK resident 3.1kg of textile year however, of this is recycled and a massive this waste ends landfill (Wrap, 2022). recycling rates of UK went down from 46% 44% in 2020 (Defra, the UK the third producer of textile waste (Moore, D. 2020). With spending on average (Moore, D. 2020) on items each year the far more towards overconsumption more sustainable under consumption.

this, the fashion needs to be the point creating new models overconsumption may forward. The rise of and ‘Ultra’ fast fashion Appendix) has brought into meaning behind for further fashion when so many items already exist.

Overconsumption – “The state or instance of consuming too much”

(Oxford Dictionary, 2022)

In response, purchasing good quality clothing over fast, cheap items allows clothing to be kept for a lifetime; reducing the amount of textile waste each person produces over their lifetime.

“Fashion is often called materialistic, but materialism does not necessarily have to be shallow.” (Rabkin, E. 2019)

Consumers are aware of the benefits to changing towards sustainable habits 39% of fashion consumer in a 2020 study have recently bought clothing that has multiple occasional uses (Mintel.com. 2020); similar to the capsule wardrobe model purchasing versatile clothing is an effective change consumers can make to live a more sustainable, lesser impact life.

No doubt covid had an impact on fashion, but one unexpected snowball impact was the drastic change in consumer shopping behaviours. In a 2022 Mintel report it was found that 47% of consumers have repaired clothing and 39% have bought second-hand clothing since 2020 (Sender, T. 2021) proving consumer awareness to be sustainable post Covid. With the rise of TikTok and Ultra-fast fashion we see old consumption behaviours creeping back, it’s the fashion industries responsibilities to provide models to counter this.

This proposition explores slowing down consumption levels by providing quarterly fashion drops compiled of good quality versatile styles; this type of consumption encourages the multi-use of clothing items reducing the need for constant new consumption. Searches for eCommerce subscription services rose by 53% from 2020 to 2022 (Navin, I. 2022), the subscription audience is there, it is just not yet seen as a mainstream type of consumption. A 2018 study by McKinsey showed that 15% of fashion consumers hold at least one online subscription with 35% of those having more than three active subscriptions. Since 2011 the largest fashion subscription retailers grew profit from $57 million to $2.6 billion in 2016 (Chen, T. Fenyo, K. Yang, S. and Zhang, J. 2018) This increase in profit proves a growing interest in the subscription model type, people are understanding their needs more and allowing a shift into a consumption type that is tailored to them.

Covid’s impact on fashion subscriptions

“People are more discerning about what they are spending, if you send them something that they want and need, they will keep it” (Bloom, A. 2020)

“ Critical Review

Many brands have faced the shift in consumer behaviour in accordance with subscription popularity. Allure from Condé Nast recorded a 15% rise in sales of its trend subscription boxes between February and May 2020 while many countries were in lockdowns. (Lieber, C. 2020) The fact of consumers being in lockdown creating a rise in active subscribers shows how consumers value ease over anything, they were stuck at home with only eCommerce but still chose minimal effort consumption

On the other hand, there was still a hit to the subscription market, fashion subscription service Stitch Fix reported a loss in 2020 of $371 million, however, this is still a positive in opposition to Traditional fashion brands, Gap and Macy’s which each took a loss of over $1 billion in 2020 (Lieber, C. 2020), further proving the desirability of subscription fashion as an eCommerce style of shopping. Among ease there are many desirable benefits to Subscription eCommerce, it is exciting and new to consumers which differentiates it from traditional ecommerce as well as providing stock and customer predictability (Navin, I. 2022) from a brand point of view.

The subscription model is questioned for its stability with Mckinsey reporting that as many as half of consumer unsubscribe after the first six months of sign up (Danziger, P. 2022), however replenishment models such as Dollar Shave Club find at least 15% more customer retention after six months (Arcanti, J. n.d) due to fulfilling a consumer need. Jocelyn’s proposition is a mix between replenishment and curation; providing a quarterly service made up of ethically manufactured pieces, which are hand-picked and curated for each season. Due to the basic, versatile nature of the clothing items that are to be proposed, each box is made up of the same pieces to create a buildable capsule wardrobe, a curated replenishment service.

Business Proposition

strength weakness

- Ecommerce subscription services come with a sense of selfgifting, consumers enjoy receiving something in the post, and with the unknown of a subscription box, excitement also comes into play. Consumers are increasingly sceptical of recurring costs, which come with subscriptions, however “If there is a unique product that shoppers can’t find on their own, that’s a position that can buck the trend.” (Milk, R. 2020)

- As a replenishment service the idea of creating excess waste, or clutter, could be questioned, however Jocelyn’s proposed mission should fight this, encouraging the behaviour of creating outfits with minimal pieces (Pure London, 2022)

- Referencing again the stability of the subscription market, competitors Trunk Club was bought by Nordstrom in 2016 and suffered a $200 million loss in the first 2 years, in the years after all Trunk Club concessions were closed. Consumers get bored easily, which has a massive impact on the success of an eCommerce subscription brand, to be successful a need must be met. (Lieber, C. 2020)

opportunity threat

- Push commerce is emerging in the subscription market, BI Intelligence found that 79% of 18–34-year-olds would be interested in auto replenishment subscriptions. Competitors such as beauty brand Glossier Neverrun-out use personalised purchase data to schedule re-shipments when products reach the end of their life (Wgsn.com. n.d). This would be a longer process for Jocelyn as good quality clothing lasts a long time, but there could be potential for a service to offer replenished basics every couple of years for loyal customers, using past purchase history to create more personalised replenishment boxes.

- In 2018 Mckinsey found that nearly 40% of subscribers, cancel memberships with one third of those cancelling after just three months and over half within six months. This is a big threat to the success of an eCommerce subscription business, however it is a necessary risk, and one that can be overcome by offering the right products to fit with consumer’s needs (Danziger, P. 2022) - A big threat to the success of an eCommerce subscription brand is competition. The market is on the rise the number of fashion eCommerce consumers is set to rise to 2,750 million by 2025 (See Appendix). This is an opportunity for new consumers for the brand, however this also gives more opportunity for an increase in competition.

Research the Macro Environment of subscription models and use this to develop a strategy for a subscriptionbased fashion brand

Macro models strategy subscriptionbrand

Ansoff Matrix

Many brands are removing themselves from the fashion industries calendar, Fashion House Saint Laurent has removed itself from September’s fashion calendar hoping to form a new relationship with its customers. The brand hopes this will allow future collections to be driven purely by creativity (Wgsn.com. 2022). Jocelyn comes from a similar standpoint; we follow meteorological seasons rather than fashion seasons.

The rate of inflation rose to a 40 year high earlier in 2022, encouraging 31% of those under the age of 34 to try out a capsule wardrobe style (Javed, S. 2022) utilising the clothing they already have instead of buying into new trends. However, 59% of respondents to a 2022 survey admit to turning to retail therapy as a temporary break from the harsh reality of cost-of-living crisis stress (Glenday, J. 2022).

political economic social

Boohoo reported a massive 94% year-on-year fall in its pre-tax profits in 2022, this results from a fall in demand; Rachel Kan, a sustainability coach within the fashion industry commented the reason may be because we are shifting “back to an age where we’re coveting our items” rather than buying hundreds of items that last 5 wears (Stokel-Walker, C, 2022) we are shifting back to a more basic view of clothes; thinking of fashion as material makes it a frivolous luxury, however recent financial events have seen people increasing value per wear of clothing they already own.

On a very physical matter of fact point, the curation of a subscription box can make or break a brands success in the market, Forbes commented that to get it right you have to “Provide a happy surprise in every box” (Danziger, P. 2022) a box needs to give a sense of exploration, it shouldn’t follow the latest norm, or the consumer may get bored.

Subscription services predominantly offer personalisation to ensure a properly curated box; shoppers answer questions then the brand does all the work. David Hayne URBN’s chief digital officer commented how the industry is shifting from discount driven shopping to a more stripped back way of living due to the curated nature of the shift; these new technologies and online experiences are paramount to the success of these new consumer behaviours (Roshitsh, K, 2019).

Within the textile industry there are various legal obligations and brand has As a start-up brand, Jocelyn will outsource all production, it is imperative that manufacturers involved follow legal restrictions and regulations. One of the main restrictions Jocelyn’s manufacturers may come across is REACH (The Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation of Chemicals), due to some of the patterned fabric, dyeing will be unavoidable, Jocelyn will only work with brands following all REACH and UKFT (UK Fashion & Textile Association) restrictions (Lawdonut.co.uk. 2022)

Filing for international trademarking is of paramount importance for the brand’s identity, vision and product line in terms of future progression. Jocelyn will fall under classification 25, apparel and clothing (GOV UK, 2022). As of September 2022, the Name Jocelyn is trademarked to a handbag company in the UK, however trademarking expires in 2023, this gives time for the development of the business as well as room for the trademark to open.

Subscription Market technological legal environmental

As mentioned previously the environment is increasingly more important to the consumer; 55% of consumers said as a result of Covid-19 and their experience that they are more likely to make sustainable consumption choices (Wgsn.com. 2022). There has been a rise in consumers who understand the importance of sustainability from 56% in a 2020 study, to 60% in a 2021 study (Sender, T. 2021)(See Appendix).

High Revenue

Low Revenue

Fabletics $200m-$500m

68.32% Female 31.68% Male

30.83% of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

Over 2,000,000 Members (Fabletics. 2022)

StitchFix $1b 69.26% Female 30.74% Male

29.04% of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

Just Fab $200m-$500m 77.34% Female 22.66% Male 26.2% of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

Savage x Fenty $200m-$500m

74.09% Female 25.91% Male

29.37% of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

Lookiero $75m-$100m 51.52% Female 48.48% Male 28.19 % of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

1 million registered users (MMC Ventures. 2022)

FabFitFun $200m-$500m 76.57% Female 23.43% Male 29.22 % of consumers 25-34 (Similar Web, 2022)

1 million registered users (Fabfitfun.com. 2022)

Brand positioning

Competitor branding analyis

Similar to a haberdashery’s branding, not very appealing to a sustainable consumer

Sleek logo, the use of colour differentiates it however it looks similar to a magazine logo

Looks great as an atheticwear logo, really effective

Vert unique, works really well when you know the brand aesthetic, but could be a bit harsh if not

subscription market

Current fashion subscription market

Business model

Quarterly Drop

Monthly payment make the overall cost easier for the consumer 5-7 items per quarterly drop

Each season drop is a curated box, each consumer will receive the same items

Returns are accepted, which will be reflected in a lower cost over the month

Taster

There will be consumers taster box

Charged at Contains one season - gives chance to styling of capsule product

Taster Package

be an option for consumers to purchase a at time of purchase one item from each gives consumers the try the quality and capsule wardrobe

Brand Name

The Jocelyn brand name was chosen in connection to the artist who created the prints used on our products, Barbara Hepworth. In a primary survey conducted it was found that 72.5% of respondents like a mix of plain and pattern in their clothing (Primary Research); as a female run brand Jocelyn wanted to support a female artist, and an artist that has a meaning. Wakefield born Barbara Jocelyn Hepworth worked and exhibited in and around Wakefield (Barbarahepworth.org.uk. 2022) and nationally throughout her life. In 2011 a gallery with her namesake was opened in the City of Wakefield, the founder of Jocelyn was brought up in Wakefield and grew up with Barbara Hepworth as a role model, so Hepworth was the founders first choice of female artist. Similar to the brand’s use of Hepworth’s printed pieces as opposed to her more famous sculptures as inspiration, the same take was played on the artist’s name, using her lesser-known middle name as the brands personality. Hepworth has spoken herself of the importance of her mixed media drawings “Abstract drawing has always been for me a particularly exciting adventure” (Hepworth, B. and Bowness, A. 1967) she saw them as a starting form, from which her point of view as a sculptor was free to deepen; this is a nice parallel for the meaning behind the pieces Jocelyn sends out to its consumers, they are a starting point for an outfit

Visual Methodology

1. Production - Technology - Composition a past with Strings elmwood - Social Hepworth’s

2. Image - Technology cast Hepworth refined the was later sculpture - Composition the string, pathway Hepworth’s - Social texture similar to

Visual Review

Hepworth, B. 1966

Methodology Framework (Rose, 2001)

Production

Technology - ‘Spring’ 1966, plaster and string Composition – A plaster sculpture cast from sculpture of Hepworth’s, ‘Oval Form Strings and Colour’, 1965, created from elmwood (Hepworth Wakefield. n.d.)

– A sculpture that represents Barbara Hepworth’s style

Image itself

Technology - The piece was created from a Hepworth completed a year earlier; she the materials to create ‘Spring’, which later used to create a bronze cast of the sculpture (See appendix).

Composition – The piece is centred around string, it pulls to the centre, binding a sharp pathway through the round stone, a trend in Hepworth’s work; mixing harsh and soft lines.

Social – The sculpture’s intricate, natural around the edge creates a pattern to that of Hepworth’s visual art pieces.

3.. Circulation

- Technology – This piece has been circulated online vis digital image - Composition – The sculpture is kept in Hepworth’s Hometown, at The Hepworth Museum and presented by her daughters, Rachel Kidd and Sarah Bowness (Hepworth Wakefield. n.d.), through the Trustees of the Barbara Hepworth Estate and the Art Fund.

- Social – The Bronze cast of the piece is exhibited in the artist’s garden, Hepworth Museum, St Ives (Dame Barbara Hepworth, Spring. n.d). However, the plaster piece is kept in the Barbara Hepworth workshop Exhibit in The Hepworth Wakefield (Hepworth Wakefield. n.d).

4.. Audience

- Technology – The sculpture has been viewed in many forms, both inside and outside, each setting gives the audience a new perspective with different shadows and light.

- Composition - The composition purposely draws the audience ‘s eyes to the middle of the sculpture. From a far the piece seems hollow in the centre, but closer the intricate network of strings can be seen.

Visual Review

Visual Methodology Framework (Rose, 2001)

1. Production

- Technology - ‘Summer’ 1969, acrylic and pencil on board

- Composition - Visual Artwork, inspired by Hepworth’s sketchbook work (See Appendix)

- Social - An abstract still life interpretation of Hepworth’s own sculptures

2. Image itself

- Technology - The image is a visual piece, Hepworth would have layered the pencil and sporadic paint after creating the base out of smooth movements in white acrylic.

- Composition - In this piece each circle represents a figure. Hepworth’s work is famous for its smooth shapes and use of holes and notches (The Hepworth Wakefield. n.d). In this there are two large figures and two smaller pieces, the largest of the four seems to be the main subject, holding a representation of the sky, it draws the eye in contrast to the line work on the piece which all seems to swerve and avoid this subject.

3. Circulation

- Technology – This piece was created in and exhibited in 1970, meaning this final piece, it served as no inspiration for Hepworth pieces

- Composition – One off piece sold privately, available via online search

- Social - The piece was sold in 2020 by a buyer, after previously being bought at auction 2007 and being exhibited in Marlborough Art, London from 1970 (Christies.com. 2020)

4. Audience

- Technology – The image had been viewed exhibit for many years but now subsides private artwork, being only reproduced and via books and screens.

- Composition - The composition purposely the audience ‘s eyes to the top of the However, depending on how close the piece viewed it may be seen as a harmless sketch.

- Social – Depending on the setting and type of audience the piece could be seen simple abstract piece of four figures intertwined, depending on the perspective.

Visual Review

Hepworth, B. 1969

in 1969 was a for future privately, copy private auction in Marlborough Fine 2020) viewed in subsides as a and seen purposely draws piece. piece is sketch. and the seen as a intertwined,

Visual Review

Brand aim

The brand aims to tackle over consumption by providing consumers with curated basic pieces, encouraging the consumer to build a capsule wardrobe and in the long run reduce the amount of clothing consumed and discarded over a lifetime.

mission statement

“This season’s capsule”

To operate with a mission improves engagement and is imperative to emphasise the brands identity (Guerrero, 2018). Jocelyn’s mission is to be the point of contact within the fashion industry tackling overconsumptions grasp on the industry, thereby creating a ripple towards a slow fashion future.

1Develop a slow fashion subscription eCommerce brand, advocating underconsumption in an industry of fast consumption.

Brand objectives

2Encourage our loyal consumer base in their shift towards a capsule wardrobe lifestyle

variations

An informal logo, used on packging elements

The main logo, on advertisements, consumer interaction

Maginia regular

Aa Bb Cc Dd Ee Ff Gg Hh Ii Jj Kk Ll Mm Nn Oo Pp

Helvetica Neue ultralight

Aa Bb Cc Dd Ee Ff Gg Hh Ii Jj Kk Ll Mm Nn Oo Pp

Qq Rr Ss Tt Uu Vv Ww Xx Yy Zz

Colour palette avoid

warm tones cool tones monochrome

c5bbb9 544e4a

The Unique Selling Point

spring

Jocelyn’s USP is the drop as opposed to standard subscription

Boxes provide consumers basics to support capsule

autumn

the quarterly box standard mintlhy subscription services

Each box will be tailored to the season it is associated with.

consumers elevated support each seasons capsule wardrobe

spring summer autumn winter

Each box will be tailored around one of Hepworth’s pieces with the boxes colour scheme coming from the piece

Segmentation

Consumer Segmentation

From competitor research and private research it was found that the majority of fashion subscription consumer are females aged between 25-34 years old, the lowest competitor customer of females was 52% with Lookiero, every other brand was higher female percentage (See competitor research). It was also found that 69% of millennials found that sustainability was important in their lives, they are the perfect consumer for a slow fashion brand.

Demographic

Legal Considerations

Considerations

Much like trademarking, Limited company registration is crucial for Jocelyn to create an identifiable classification. Registering will separate the company from its owners creating separate financial responsibility; a limited company stands to be more tax efficient than sole traders; being responsible for corporation tax, rather than income tax, which comes in at a much higher rate making a limited company more profitable. This supports the government’s in raising revenue at the same time as maintaining the UK’s competitive rates of taxation (GOV UK, 2020).

Examine capsule model slowing and reducing waste and product development

Examine how a capsule wardrobe can assist in the

slowing down fashion reducing textile through brand product range development 3Objective

From the brands consumer research we made sure to ask about consumer capsule wardrobes and their expectations from our brand. It was found that a small majority of consumers didn’t understand what a capsule wardrobe was, some thought it may be vintage but 70% had really good understandings (Primnary survey,2022). Both outcomes are great for use as our mission is to provide a capsule wardrobe but also educate about the benefoits of one. Consumers were asked their personal opion on subscriptions, 55% said they would consider a subscription in the future and 52% would prefer quartlerly drops over more frequent drops.

Consumer expectations

Capsule wardrobe

As a capsule wardrobe subscription service, just as much as a wardrobe needs to be curated, so does the box. Each season the consumer will receive high quality responsibly sourced items that are a great addition and in some consumer cases first steps towards a strong capsule wardrobe. A LA based entrepreneur found that putting too much into boxes hurt retention, if you create a box with products that aren’t needed that’s a lost customer (Lieber, C. 2020)

Celebrity

“It’s so important to have these pieces so that you don’t unnecessarily buy items that won’t make it past one season.”

stylist and editor, Nana Acheampong (Eggenberger, M, 2022)

According to Vogue a good capsule wardrobe is made with time and patience (Eggenberger, M, 2022), and looking at the essentials you might be missing. Vogue’s Capsule Wardrobe checklist includes;

White T-shirt Tailored Trousers Jeans Trench coat Blazer Neutral knits Vests Biker Jacket Simple Maxi skirt

Paired whit plain gold or silver jewellery finishes every capsule look (Montgomery, J. and Smart, N. 2022)

Jocelyn is a female run brand, we want as possible, which is why extra steps to open our product sizing to larger fabric off the roll; sizes XS-XL require those over XXL, however fabric pricing 25% for larger sizes (Mishra, M. dress in a size small could require and meaning a XXL requires 2.6 That extra cost will be tricky as a start-up to not alienate any consumer type, to encourage underconsumption for this reason Jocelyn would take clothing to be able to offer all sizing

want to be as inclusive to all women steps will have to be taken to be able larger sizes. Larger sizes require more require around 30% less fabric than pricing should only increase around 2022); for example, a simple silk 2 square metres costing £79.78 square metres costing £99.725. start-up however it is very important type, this would go against our mission within the whole industry. It is also take a small hit on profit on plus sized sizing at the same price.

Sizing

From these results it is clear that consumer prefer the simple styles from each season. This bodes well as basics are the platform for capsule wardrobe; from this research we can confidently proceed wit our proposed collection

A consumer survey Jocelyn’s brand research. between 25-34 Jocelyn’s favoured Consumer Segmentation). first by convenience sampling of past participants. consent form and Styles and Silhouettes the questioning of each point of reference for ABCABCABCABC-

Trend Analysis

survey was conducted as part of research. A sample of 40 females years olds participated to match favoured consumer demographic (See Segmentation). Participants were found sampling and in turn snowballing participants. Each participant completed a a participation information sheet. Silhouettes for each season were part of each participant, this will be a main styling each box (Primary survey, 2022). Spring 37.5% 52.5% 10% Summer 30% 47.5% 22.5% Autumn 67.5% 20% 12.5% Winter 20% 35% 45%

Proposed Collection

Proposed Collection

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Price

When considering a pricing strategy, everything from manufacture to consumer expectations needs to be considered.

In our primary survey 20% of consumers agreed they would pay £200-£300 per box (Primary Survey, 2022), to make the Jocelyn subscription more accessible the cost will be split into monthly payment as opposed to quarterly payments. This pricing plan would accommodate for all transport, manufacture, and sourcing for each box per season. Reflectively, a large majority of survey participants (70%) said they would pay £100£200 (Primary Survey, 2022), however for good quality fabrics and styles this price would equate to little or no profit. Another level of consumer consideration needs to come from the current cost of living situation. As of April 2022, lower income households face a minimum £708 rise in energy bills and further increase in October 2022 (Reports.mintel.com.

2022) The same report also found the 46% of UK consumers are expecting to have to cut back on non-essential spending in the next year (Reports.mintel.com. 2022), this could have a big impact on potential customers and retention, therefore pricing needs a fair, considered plan

Jocelyn’s manufacturer will be Offset Warehouse, they ship from the UK which is of paramount importance, this will decrease transportation costs and the brand’s transportation footprint. Offset Warehouse fabrics and fibres are all fairly sourced from global locations, hand-picked by founder Charlie Bradley. Each fabric is fully transparent and traceable and Offset Warehouse guarantee every fabric is environmentally and socially responsible. (Offset Warehouse. 2022)

Ivory Charmeuse Silk Satin – Lightweight - £39.89 per metre (Offset Warehouse. 2022)

Organic Tree Of Life Hand Block Cotton Cambric - £31.50 per metre (Offset Warehouse. 2022)

Fair Trade Undyed Cream Twill - £24 per metre (Offset Warehouse. 2022)

Nettle Cotton Handloom Tweed Fishbone - £65.90 (Offset Warehouse. 2022)

Fabric

In a primary survey, 70% of consumers stated they somewhat call themselves sustainable consumers, with 25% agreeing they shop sustainably and 32.5% often making sustainable life choices (primary survey, 2022) it was of paramount importance that all choices, within a suitable price for a startup company, were sustainably considered. It is for this reason when choosing suppliers and manufacturers their background was one of the first places, as a brand, we analysed.

Why Sustainable?

It is an aspiration as a brand to create clothing from organic cotton, however in recent years pricing and demand has gone up and availability has gone down. The textile Exchange found that by 2030 worldwide demand for organic cotton will have grown by 84% since 2020. In relation, recent monsoon seasons have dramatically affected the production of crop; The Cotton Association of India has stated the current cotton season, 2021/22, is producing drastically lower than the previous season, 2020/21, with only 32.36 million bales, in comparison 35.3 million bales the past season (Finamore, E, 2022).

Jocelyn’s products will all be shipped in noissue Kraft boxes (noissue. 2022) All of noissue’s products are made with 100% recycled materials. Their Kraft boxes are also 100% compostable (noissue. 2022). Jocelyn will also be using their acid free tissue paper as a box liner alongside custom branded masking tape printed using soy-based inks and made using FSC certified crepe paper (noissue. 2022).

Kraft Boxes 250 units £0.45 per unit - £115 500 units £0.44 per unit £220 Tissue 250 units £0.46 per unit - £115 500 units £0.25 per unit £220

Custom masking tape – 2” by 33ft 5 units £18 per unit - £90 10 units £10.50 per unit £105

Suppliers

Manufacture in the UK can cost more than outsourcing to another country however, when transport is factored in both cost wise and environmentally (The London Pattern Cutter. 2022), it makes sense for Jocelyn as a brand to stick with the UK for manufacture. Jocelyn has found a manufacturer in the UK offering sampling, cutting, and making, for five styles at a time making bunching costs easier to handle (CM UK, 2022) They offer the whole service in 7-12 weeks, a great turnaround time for a startup.

$49.95 per month Monthly fee gives you discounted prices on items costing average £60 (BOXES, S, 2022)

High Price Low Price

£30- £200 £20 initial fee Priced individually per item (Stitchfix. 2022)

Good Benefits No Benefits

$54.95 per month Individul items priced up to £100 (Fabletics. 2022)

Ad campaign Survey Findings

According to a 2022 study 43% (New consumer, 2022) of millennials feel most like themselves online, primary research found similar with 62.5% of participants preferring digital marketing over traditional. In addition our primary survey found that 40% of our consumer respond more to a mix of natural and editorial style in advertising. The style of our proposed ad campaign will suit this mix well

Artistic Direction

The Artistic Direction behind the shoots was to take inspiration from Barbara Hepworth. The idea of having clothing displaying her work as a forefront, and her actual work as a backdrop would make a beautiful parallel between the inspiration and the product. A shoot will be conducted at The Hepworth Museum, using both her Sculptures and Printed pieces as a backdrop.

Shoot Location The

Hepworth,

Hepworth, Wakefield

Raw Images

These ads will be used for online promotion as well physical ads, Consumer research did respond to digital why our promotion is tailored for digital while being compatible small billlboards.

Ad Design

as select few digital more which is compatible for a few

Physical ads come in the style of billboards, Digital advertising in the form of social media promotion, both on Jocelyn’s platforms and a small group of hand selected influencers. Mid roll ads and promotion will also be paid for by the brand.

Ad Placement

advertising comes platforms and paid

Placement

peak

Sneak peak

Social media

elinorcharlotte

Autumn days <3

This full fit is from @jocelynwear new season drop --> you can sign up now ready for the Winter drop

Social media

Influencer Marketing

Rosie advocates for re-wear, resale and reuse of clothing

Phoebe has an eye for second hand and sustainable fashion, with beautifully curates’ outfits that are simple, sustainable and show her personality

Elle mixes vintage finds with ethical brands, she enjoys clashing patterns and missing neutral colours

Sasha is a huge advocate for the circular economy, she says ‘slow down’ is her tagline, which is what she encourages her followers to do.

Each influencer will be given a brief, and asked to promote the latest Jocelyn box via their Instagram profiles and stories. They will encourage their followers to both follow Jocelyn social media and push them towards signing up for a taster box.

Launch Plan

Pre Launch

Launch

Transport emissions are a large part of greenhouse gas emission in the UK, however, Statista found that transport level emissions only made up 13% of eCommerce greenhouse gas emissions in 2020 (See Appendix). However it is still a primary importance for Jocelyn to create as small of an emissions footprint as possible, so through thorough research it has been decided all transport and delivery will be conducted through Royal Mail, they have pledged to have 41,500 new electric vehicles by 2030 (See Appendix), they also have the most pick up and drop off points compared to other couriers in the UK; Royal mail have 11,500 locations compared to the second largest, Collect+, with 10,000 locations (See Appendix) Further more they also score as the most carbon conscious delivery couriers in the country (See Appendix).

PROFIT

Overall we have a small margin for profit as a start up, understanding we have made some more expensive coices to be able tp provide sustainable options for our consumerst. We have a large scope to grow our consumer base as a business and the monthly nature of the payments should create a steady flow back into the brand

PEOPLE

We believe as a brand we have followed every path that will meet the needs of our sutainable consumer, we are very conscious about evry avenue of the brand, from manufacture to the influencers we have chosen to work with. Every choice the brands makes needs to reflect the mission and core values of the brand.

PLANET

We continue to offer sustainable efforts within all areas of the brand for all current and future collections. By utilising the UK’s sustainable manufacture and transport organisations we reduced the risk of increasing our carbon footprint; using already existing courier services means we add no emission to the environment.

Determine, using a critical review of academic research, the benefits of the slowing down of fashion post covid-19.

During this proposition many academic studies were referred to resulting in a thorough review of the fashion industry’s present and future within the subscription e-commerce market, which laid strong foundations from which to consider a new market entrant

Research the Environment of models and use a strategy for a based fashion brand

Through competitor this study found market, within industry there is defying the fashion and slowing fashion, this is not reflected Jocelyn’s competitors, this reason, Jocelyn have a successful into the market

Reflection on

the Macro of subscription use this to develop a subscriptionbrand

competitor research found a gap in the the fashion is a lot of talk of fashion seasons fashion, however reflected in any if competitors, it is for Jocelyn should successful emergence (Lieber, C. 2020).

There is definite room for progression and improvement within the Jocelyn brand, for example, proper returns strategies and new technology utilisation. However, as a start up brand, the proposition is thorough and effectively meets both the project objectives as well as the ones set out by the brand

on Objectives

To examine how a capsule wardrobe model can assist in the slowing down fashion and reducing textile waste through brand and product range development

Future Potenetial

The future of the brand has a lot of technological opportunities, as a small start up the capacity for personalisation and auto replenishment technology is not possible, however for the future of the brand, and for the progression of the brands mission it could be a great step. A WGSN study found that there was a 30% rise in mobile app purchasing in 2021 (Wgsn. com. 2022), mobile app purchasing is a great way to offer extra personalisation it gives the opportunity to offer exclusive discounts or items for app members. For the future of the brand this could be a good way to incentivise extra item purchase between the standard and small box options. t

Moreover, in the future auto replenishment technology could play a major role in customer retention understanding individual consumer wardrobe needs. Offering elevated basics through an guaranteed service could be a great addition to our USP as a brand. Progressing from auto replenishment a great addition to this service in the future would be a take back scheme. As a company understanding the consumer enough to know their wardrobe’s needs, offering new items but then no plan for the old items would go against our business model or tackling waste and overconsumption. In addition to fresh products with the replenishment service Jocelyn will eventually offer a scheme in which consumers can trade their old, worn items in for a newer version at a disctounted price. This benefits both the consumer, by decreasing a monthly cost, as well as the brand as the old fabric can then be repurposed into styles for the next season. Marks and Spencer’s and Oxfame launched a similar plan but to donate old clothes instead of repurpose and have so far received 29 million items for donation, this proves the consumer mindset towards recycling clothing when an easy solution is provided (Wgsn.com. 2022).

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Appendices

Choosing a subscription model over a rental model will create a sense of ownership for consumers and bring back the feeling that clothes are something to hold on to and wear year on year, moreover it is unknown the actual footprint rental companies, the shipping, packing, and dry-cleaning that must be repeated every time a garment is rented leave an untraceable trail of environmental harm (Business of Fashion, 2019).

Ultra-fast fashion – Ultra-fast fashion is the newest damaging fashion trend. It comes with the rise of TikTok and short form videos. As videos become shorter and media consumption becomes quicker, this creates a parallel with the fashion industry. Content creators are spending hundreds of pounds on fast fashion such as Shein, to create 30 second long, 30 item hauls, posting multiple hauls week. This quick and full video encourages viewers that this is the norm, that the pace of fashion to keep up with. (Shadel, J. 2022)

(Mintel.com. 2020)

(Statista. 2022)

something footprint of repeated harm shorter fashion sites hauls a this is

(Mintel.com. 2020) (Statista. 2022)

Visual Methodologies Framework Rose, G, 2001.

(Mintel.com. 2020)

(Statista. 2022)

(Statista. 2022)

Hepworth, B., 1941. Drawing for Sculpture. [Pencil on Paper].

‘Spring’, 1966 cast in bronze

Wrap, 2019.

Primary surevy, 2022

Chen, T., Fenyo, K., Yang, S. and Zhang, J. 2018.

Participant consent form

Participant information sheet

Participant Information Sheet

Can Clothing subscription services help reduce the overall impact of textile waste?

- Investigating the effectiveness, a different type of brand to consumer model can have in comparison to normal high street shopping behaviours

You are invited you to take part in an academic research study as part of a final project submission to complete the principal investigators MSc course in International Business Fashion Management Research will be carried out by Victoria Shepherd, as the principal investigator, supported by my unit leader Phoebe Apeagyei and supervisors Cat Doyle and Paula Wren.

You have been invited to participate in this study due to the expertise you hold in your profession and the industry in which your company falls. The principal investigator conducted research into the sustainable fashion and fashion subscription industry to find suitable brands to act as competitors for the proposed brand outcome of this academic research, your brand was found to hold similar values, consumers and products as the proposed brand. Your insight will be used alongside the insight of one other industry professional, as well as data from a consumer survey including at least 50 participants . Participation is voluntary, participants have the right to decline and the right to withdraw at any point during this process.

Participation in this study comes in the form of an informal interview, this is preferred via video call, however can be completed in written format with the understanding that all information given will be transcribed and saved to contribute to research data.

There is minimal risk for participation, questions are purposefully impersonal and minimally intrusive. However, if the participant does experience any intrusion or discomfort due to participation in this study they hold the right to withdraw, and welfare protocols are in place.

Consenting to participation of this study means all data collected will be recorded, either transcribed from a voice recording, or transcribed from a written interview. These will be used to support academic research and may be quoted thr oughout the outcome. No information collected from this interview will be made public, only shared via the Manchester Metropolitan network for the purpose of academic marking.

During this interview the participants name, professional role and company name will be collected. Personal details will be collected via consent forms and prior communication to be used to verify the legitimacy of the information provide d, as well as being used as a reference throughout the academic outcome.

Version: 1.0 Date: 25/08/2022

Ethical approval number (EthOS):

Participant withdrawal form

PARTICIPANT WITHDRAWAL FORM

Participant name or Study ID Number:

Title of Project: Can Clothing subscription services help reduce the overall impact of textile waste?

Name of Principal Investigator: Victoria Shepherd

Name of the person to whom this form should be submitted: Victoria Shepherd

Participant to complete this section. Please initial one of the following boxes:

1. I confirm that I wish to withdraw from the study before data collection has been completed and that none of my data will be included in the study.

2. I confirm that I wish to withdraw all of my data from the study before data analysis has been completed and that none of my data will be included in the study

3. I confirm that although the results of the study have already been produced and cannot change, I wish to be forgotten and that all of my personal data is deleted from verification records maintained by the university about the study. I understand that this means that only those data identifying me will be deleted

Your name is required to verify that you have withdrawn you r data from the study as specified above. In the case of (3), above, we will need to retain this form until 3 rd October 2022

It may be necessary to share this information with internal examiners, external examiners, and / or journal editors for the purposes of verification of findings and tracing results of studies to the raw data used.

This form will be stored securely until 3rd October 2022 when it will be destroyed, and will not be shared with anyone else.

Signature of participant: Date:

Signature of person who will ensure that the stated data have been deleted: Date:

Masters Project, EthOS ID xxxxxxx, Protocol v1.0, 25 08 2022