FA104

FA104A Introduction to Branded Fashion Technical Drawing Reflection on the Significance and Difference of Design and Construction Elements Victoria Brombey

Design Detail 1 French Shirt Cuffs A French Shirt Cuff is double the length of a regular cuff. It is folded back on itself and closed with cuff links. The construction of this style of cuff is similar to the construction of a barrel cuff, however it requires extra length. (Hough, 2014) French Shirt Cuffs were introduced during the European Renaissance. This historical period was known as a cultural movement, a time to be ‘reborn’ (William S, 2015) and took place from the 14th to 17th century. It was a time of social and cultural changes and with that came changes to an area of fashion, the dress shirt.

The dress shirt had existed for quite some time before this cultural movement however it was slightly modified or some say improved during this era. Originally, shirt cuffs were fastened with rope or a pin and over time buttons and chains were also used. With the invention of glue in the 1750s, the design of cuff links became more elaborate and as a result they became more fashionable, creating a more casual look. Cuff links were now used in everyday wear and ranged from a fun and casual look to expensive and chic (J.J. Threads, 2015). This design feature was seen on shirts and dresses mostly worn for formal occasions.

The use of French Shirt Cuffs plummeted during the 1970s. This was a time of heavily printed, hectic shirts that had built-in buttons, replacing the need for cuff links. It is said that haute couture designers attempted to keep the cuff link style around which ‘…continued to influence many people and keep the tradition alive’ (The History of Cuff Links, Benjamin Cufflinks, 2015).

Twenty years later saw the revival of this garment feature.

French Shirt Cuffs made a ‘dramatic come back’ that resulted in cuff links becoming a mainstream fashion accessory. It is believed that all ages rediscovered cuff links as an everyday Designer Unknown

 necessity rather than a once formal jewel (The History of Cuff Links, Benjamin Cufflinks, 2015).

In modern day, French Shirt Cuffs are seen primarily by the more lavish and expensive of brands and labels. This design detail was featured heavily in Fall 2013 by labels such as Valentino and Suno, a New York based women’s wear label.

Both labels presented a beautifully clean-cut traditional cuff.

Labels today are also dabbling with the French Shirt Cuff, including Blumarine in their Spring 2015 collection. Blumarine created a more contemporary look by featuring abnormally large sized cuffs in sheer chiffon turning it into a statement sleeve.

From left to right, Valentino Fall 2013, Suno Fall 2013, Blumarine Spring Summer 2015

Design Detail 2

Peter Pan Collar

The Peter Pan collar is a simple flat collar with round points. It can be designed in two ways; one piece with a front fastening bodice or in separate parts that are fastened in the back (Nicole Lenzen, 2015).

This collar surfaced in 1905 by John White Alexander during the costume design for ‘Peter and Wendy’, a play presented in New York City. The design by Alexander was a more pronounced shape inspired by a previous similar collar called the Parisian Claudine collar.

This trend surfaced again from the 1920s to 1950s. The Peter Pan collar was ‘…the standard feature on little girl’s dresses’ (Nicole Lenzen, 2015) as well as women’s bridal gowns. From the 1930s1950s this feature was a necessity on all white satin gowns.

This era was also the beginning of ‘Mod Dresses’, that also featured the Peter Pan Collar. It is said that during this period the collar

Peter Pan Collar design

by John White Alexander

became more credible. The 1970s also saw the continuation of the Peter Pan Collar however this trend slowed until present day.

In Modern day, the Peter Pan collar is more refined. New York Designer Nicole Lenzen states that the modern Peter Pan collar has cut down the tails in the front, and has rounded the edges in a bit – making them more easier to wear with lots of different styles (Nicole Lenzen, 2015) It is said that since Autumn Winter 2011, the Peter Pan collar has been a constant trend. It has been seen on celebrities such as Emma Watson, Alexa Chung and Carey Mulligan by designers from the likes of Georges Hobeika, Rodarte, Peter Som, Preen, Tory Burch and Olympia Le-Tan. Parisian Claudine Collar, Comme Des Garçons

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Most recently, the Peter Pan collar has also been spotted throughout various Spring Summer collections for 2015 by Huishan Zhang, Emilia Wickstead, Michael Kors, Paul & Joe, Fendi and Chanel,

James Jeans, Everlane Sweater and Bag, Kate Mara

Unknown Designer, Lizzy Chaplan

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Designer Unknown, Lizzy Chapman

(Runway DIY.com, 2011)

Design Detail 3 Patch Pocket Patch pockets are flat pockets sewn into the outside of a garment, looking like a ‘patch’, hence the name Patch Pockets. They are usually unfitted and vary in shape and size.

Before Patch Pockets were discovered, bags or purses were the normal accessories. These bags and purses were used as pockets and were tied onto the outside of the garment during the medieval era. Typically women were required to carry keys for the house and any utensils she may need. It is said that the bigger the bag or purse, the higher her status, as these items were indicators of wealth.

‘The keys of my counting-house are in the left pocket of my coat’ (1633, W. Rowley, A Match at Midnight, Act 3.

The 17th and 18th Centuries brought ‘great big pockets,’ according to Ariana Tobin from Marketplace Tech Radio. She continued to say ‘…everybody who would wear any sort of clothing would wear big pockets. In the later 18th Century, as the neo classical style came into be, as Greek goddesses were all the rage, women stopped wearing bigger pockets, especially fashionable upper class, wealthy women.

They would not be seen with pockets!’ (Why women's pockets are useless: A history, 2014) These pockets were usually deeper than long. They were decorated with buttons or embroidery.

In modern day, there are minimal pockets on everyday wear and garments. Usually pockets are seen on

From top to bottom, Designer Unknown, Pinterest, Marni Fall 2013

 denim jeans and remain there, however recently, Patch Pockets have been seen as a statement detail in many high end collections, for example Prada, Alexander Wang, Marni, Marc Jacobs and Hermès.

Prada, Fall 2015

Alexander Wang, Fall 2015

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References Design Detail 1

Wikipedia, 2015. Cuff. [online] Available at: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuff> [Accessed 29 Jul. 2015].

J.J. Threads, 2015. Dress Shirt Cuffs And French Cuff Dress Shirts For Men | J.J. Threads. [online] Available at: <http://www.jjthreads.com/101/dress-shirt-cuffs> [Accessed 29 Jul. 2015].

Wiliam, S., 2015. Introduction: what was the Renaissance?, Renaissance in Europe, Renaissance and Reformation, SOSE: History Year 8, QLD | Online Education Home Schooling Skwirk Australia. [online] Skwirk.com. Available at: <http://www.skwirk.com/p-c_s-56_u422_t-1105_c-4271/wa/sose:-history/renaissance-and-reformation/renaissance-ineurope/introduction:-what-was-the-renaissance?> [Accessed 29 Jul. 2015].

Hough, A., 2014. Collars, Cuffs, and Pockets: Mastering the Shirt Essentials | National Sewing Circle. [online] National Sewing Circle. Available at: <http://www.nationalsewingcircle.com/article/collars-cuffs-pockets-mastering-shirt-essentials/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. Le Cuff. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/209769295118497804/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Snob Essentials, 2013. Valentino Fall 2013 Collection - Bag Snob. [online] Available at: <http://www.snobessentials.com/2013/03/valentino-fall-2013-collection-lets-go-dutch.html> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Vogue UK, 2015. Blumarine Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: <http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/blumarine> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

The Sartorialist, 2015. Suno Fall/Winter 2013. [online] Available at: <http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/suno-fallwinter2013/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TheSartorialist+(Th e+Sartorialist)> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. Accessorize!. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/9499849185374463/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Benjamincufflinks.com.au, 2015. The History of Cufflinks (Cuff links) 1200 - 2000. [online] Available at: <http://www.benjamincufflinks.com.au/history-of-cufflink/> [Accessed 7 Aug. 2015].

 Design Detail 2

Pinterest, 2015. Clothes & style. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/376261743838960109/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. A Master Class On How To Make Preppy Look Cool. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/274438171018166250/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. Preen Spring 2012. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/571816483909271013/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. This Is It! Over 100 Amazing Street Style Looks From Paris Fashion Week. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/194217802650165341/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Runway DIY.com, 2011. DIY Peter Pan Collar. [online] Available at: <http://runwaydiy.com/2011/02/13/diy-peter-pan-collar/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Nicole Lenzen, 2015. The Peter Pan Collar: How to Pull It Off and the History of the Style Nicole Lenzen. [online] Available at: <http://nicolelenzen.com/peter-pan-collar-wear-stylehistory/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Theensembleblog.com, 2012. From 1900 to 2011: the trend of the peter pan collar | The Ensemble. [online] Available at: <http://www.theensembleblog.com/from-1900-to-2011-thetrend-of-the-peter-pan-collar/> [Accessed 2 Aug. 2015].

Design Detail 3

Pinterest, 2015. Chiffon. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/96194142011331388/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. Prada Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear - Details - Gallery. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/332281278733129419/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Pinterest, 2015. Prada Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear - Details - Gallery. [online] Available at: <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/332281278733129419/> [Accessed 1 Aug. 2015].

Why women's pockets are useless: A history, 2014. [TV programme] Marketplace Tech: Ariana Tobin. wiseGEEK, 2015. What are Patch Pockets? (with picture). [online] Available at: <http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-patch-pockets.htm> [Accessed 2 Aug. 2015].