A journey to the unexplored..
So finally after all the Mayhem at the Office; Over time, Weekend works and all the Midnight oil burnt has payed off. I had my holidays approved. It was an morning flight and it was around 6.15 when I reached the Bengaluru International Airport. I was indeed excited while checking In for what looked like the longest tour alone in my life and the farthest I went away from home. I kicked the day off with a Masala Dosa n Coffee combo from the airport post checking In to bid adieu to the South Indian food, for a fortnight.
AY 1
I boarded the Go Indigo flight at 7.50, I had the window seat and much to my delight found 2 girls to my right. :) Though I was a little too busy in my own world, listening to music, and reading the magazines and admiring the design. I did manage to kick start a conversation, which sadly didn’t last long, as I just lost it when I heard they’re less than 18 years old. That meant they were born after 1996, the fact that people born then are almost adults, took some time to sink In. Anyways after a ‘not too bad’ flight, I landed at Guwahati International Airport at around 11.15. pm. It was easily one of the smallest airport i have ever been in, I step out of the flight and Waalah i am already on the main road.
Nagaon I had my cab waiting, as i stepped my foot out of the Airport. The Driver was super excited to get the long trip to Jakhalabandha right on the day of festival(It was the last day of Pooja). He even tagged along a friend of his, from Khanapara, so he can enjoy at the Melas after dropping me. So i began the road trip from Guwahati, one notable thing about the road was that all the Fuel Stations were on the right hand side of the road, as the left side was in Assam and right side was in Meghalaya and the fuel prices are cheaper there. Clever Huh?
The first stop was at a tiny chai shop, somewhere in Nagaon.Had one of the most amazing Kachori of my life, before i headed straight to Jakhalabandha. The ride was pretty nice with the the driver and his friend explaining how amazing the pooja celebrations in Assam is, And how they do a lot of MOSTI (Fun) :P They thought I was in the Army, which came as a shocker to me considering my Hairstyle and the beard. Then i felt they probably confused me for a Sardar. I reach my destination close to 3:00pm. Where my friend Abinash was waiting with his brother.We were quickly off in his car to Golaghat. We stopped for lunch at this placed called KING LONG, which was overlooking the Amazing KAZIRANGA. More on KAZIRANGA later, I head inside the King Long Restaurant. Which had amazing interiors, which mocked a Cave. We placed ourselves right next to the Artificial Water Fall. I went for the Traditional Assamese Thali. I was all game, for the full fledged, super rich meal. They started off with Fish Tenga and steamed rice, which was delicious, the texture of the fish was just perfect. I was shocked to find out a dish called KHAR, which was so close to Olan a dish in Kerala, I checked with the chef on what it is made of and he said pumpkin and it was actually Olan. There I was indulging in a Traditional Kerala Dish 3000Km away from home.Less did I know that it was just the beginning. I reached my friend’s house at Golaghat around 9. I had a walk at the Mela, as it was the last of Pooja. I have to tell you, I was shell shocked to see, Girls wearing Stilletos and party wear at a town miles away from the metros. Was Jet lagged, So I was back home and was off to sleep soon. Looking to explore my first day out.
TRADITIONAL ASSAMESE THALI
DAY 2
I woke up to a Woderful Sunny Morning, this is from my friend’s backyard while taking a walk after the breakfast tea
After the walk, I went for a quick shower, but ended up taking a refreshing bath; Blame the Fresh water, I felt it was purer than the drinking water in Bangalore. Soon after the Breakfast, we were off for some sight seeing around Golaghat. The Garom Pani to start with. Yes, as the name suggests, it was a HOT WATER SPRING. It was indeed warm, and they say you could light a matchstick if kept close to it.
The finale of Pooja was marked by this procession, led by an Elephant and followed by people in White and Red.
We were done in less than an hour and then decided to gobble up. And rushed to this Kingfisher Dhaba a little off Golaghat town. We grabbed some chilled beer to beat the heat and some pork to go with it. Well, three to be exact. Chilli Pork, Pork with Bamboo Shoot and Pork Fry. I have to tell you, the Bamboo shoot dish was nothing close to what I had in Bangalore. The flavour was so amazingly blended to the Pork, It simply changed the image of Bamboo Shoot for me.
THE DEOPAHAR RUINS Post lunch we head to this to historical place called Deopahar Ruins. It supposedly is one of the ancient sites of Assam. Which was a temple, that got destructed through the years. However, what i remember is the never ending steps that led to it. I was paying for all the smoke that I had pulled inside. (Statutory Warning : Smoking is indeed injurious at times) Made it to the ruins some how, and the effort was totally worth it. I was overwhelmed with the sculpting. The detailing on the sculpts were commendable. We drove back home after that tiring day and retired soon after the dinner.
Day Two started off with being a part of a school get together of my friends Schoolmates. They were meeting after a long time, and I was the only one who was Non-Schoolmate, Non-Assamese and Non-North Indian. However, probably the Mallu trait. I got along with them. Very, Very Nice people. As always, they were unbelievably Hostile to me, The Visitor. So the Destination was Shiv Sagar District, former capital of the Axom Dynasty. The place was filled with Palaces and Monuments, all of them atleast three centuries old. I reached the city close to 11:00 AM. I went to this place called Devidol. Its a Temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess of Power, Durga.
One of the most interesting sight was the Rang Ghor. It was a double-storied Amphitheatre. Seems like it is one of the biggest and oldest of its kind in Asia. I was told that the Kings used to watch Bull Fights from this Pavillion. We climbed the stairs to have a have a look at the View the kings used to get. Soon after we were done with Rang Ghor. We went to the next and most important Ghor, THE TALATAL GHOR. It was the King’s palace.
RANG GHOR
The Oldest Pavillion in Asia
TALATAL GHOR Talatal Ghor was a palace indeed, but it was more like a hide-out or a house he used when there is a threat. It was sheer engineering brilliance, with 3 floors of the building in the basement. It apparently has 3 secret tunnels for the king to escape. Crowd is allowed only till the first floor of the basement. However, you could see the beginning of the tunnel and also the beginning of the tunnel. Another notable brilliance was the construction and the thought that has gone into it. The rooms were all made identical, and they are placed in some sort of puzzle. They say that nobody has found his way back once he is in the puzzle. However, we had people to guide and could come back safe. After a session of photographs at the Palace, we headed back from the place. Leaving the palace for the king.
GOLAGHAT The place I spent most of my trip in, A snap from the short trip I took to a village in the Golaghat district. Was quite a feast for the eye. Very nostalgic Paddy fields to Small houses. With the latest Satellite TV and brand new Cars parked infront. It was a contrast of urban and village lifestyle. The most amazing part of the stay at the place was the hospitality of the people; Yes, it is a common thing in the North East. But anyone and everyone I met were trying to make sure I have tried all their delicacies and visited the popular places around. For a moment, I thought I come across as a Foodie at the first glance. I however didn’t complain as it only gave me more chances to try more dishes.
Most mentionable dinner invite came from this guy called Nibir, an AssameseKerala cross breed ;). He had a Mallu father and an Assamese Mother. What better could I ask for? He was so excited about the fact that I am coming down for dinner, I saw there was a Huge Fire set at his backyard to Smoke the Pork. He went all the way into the Forests, to get what was called as HAAS, a type of alcohol made out of Rice.
HAAS n GAHORI This is what was awaiting me. And boy, was I surprised. I went to his a little after 9 (Considered late in Assam, as the city sleeps by 8). So, I enter and he presents me with what was known as The Meghala Chaddar. It was sort of a Token of appreciation. I was overwhelmed by the gesture, and I felt more special, when I thought more about it. I was gifted a traditional Assamese cloth, by a Mallu. Well ! So post that he presented me this Thali; Which is a Brass Plate. That had Haas presented in a Brass Bowl and Gahori(Pork) , cooked with some leaf which I couldn’t identify. It also had some salt and Strands of Bhooth Jolokiya, The King of all Chillies (Considered the Spiciest in the world). I just reminded me of the tequila shots. Now we know where they were inspired from. So I have the sip of the Haas, licked a piece of the King Chilly brushing the salt, and then took a piece of pork and bit it. I tell you, I don’t know whether heaven exist. But if it did, IT WAS THIS.
It was time to say goodbye to Golaghat. It was great fun and the welcome was overwhelming. Be it my friend’s mom, Buwa, Badi Buwa, Behen. They were all super nice to me. Also, the angel that I spotted in North East. My friend Abinash’s cousin sister, who was super cute and could talk endlessly. Even though it was in Assamese, I couldn’t stop listening to her. Last but not the least. All the meal I had from his place; The Fish, the mutton, the Payaru Thoran (That was shocker, A traditional kerala cuisine again). It was unforgettable ! I bid a big adieu to all of them before I took the bus back to Guwahati, to start my trip to Meghalaya.
The drive from Guwahati to Shillong was so eventful. We could see the places where landslides had happened a couple of days ago, and boy was it scary? Humongous chunks of Earth just falling down, the thought itself was terrifying. After close to 2 and a half hours we reached BODA PANI.
THE ELEPHANT FALLS
Our first actual visit was to the Giant Elephant Falls. It indeed lived up to the expectations. It was Big, Milky and incredibly fast. The place offered two views to the falls, one from a little above the fall and one at the foot of it. I also read a note saying the Waterfall was the called so, as there was a rock that resembled the shape of a Rock. However, it was destroyed in 1897 by an earth quake. While I was going from one place to another and having food and chatting with the new found buddies. One thing I noticed was that in most of the Shops / Outlets in Meghalaya. The Person Incharge was a women. I thought of it as a coincidence, I was shocked to find out that In Meghalaya, Women take care of the family. They are the MEN OF THE FAMILY.
Meghalaya
A Kid spotted at shillong, at the CLEANEST VILLAGE IN THE WORLD. Had great difficulty clicking this, as the kids’ brother was trying to hide him with the curtain. But, he so badly wanted to get clicked. Thanks you cute unknown kid. :)
B H U T J O LO K I A
Anything said would be less about this amazing chili from Assam. Yes, The Ghost Chili or Bhut Jolokia as they call it. The spiciest chili in the world. There are many dishes that has this as the ingredient, as mentioned before. In the pork and many other dishes. I even tried it without anything. Well, trust me. IT IS HOT!!! Although, it didn’t do anything to my stomach. That was quite a surprise. I should really think of using it in some of my dishes in future. The flavour it gives to the food is amazing.
JO
RH
AT
So after an amazing journey to shillong and the whole of Meghalaya, I am simply overwhelmed with the 20 days I spent in North East India was simply awesome and the way every person I met behaved to me was just amusing. I was back in Gawahati Airport,Checking IN. And the fact that I got to be in a place, where Nature was simply in its raw form was impressive and surprising at the same time. And coming from Bangalore, You ought to believe me! Oh, Wait. Is that a mail from my Boss.
Vineeth Padiyath’s Travel Story